THE GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE LIBRARY.

THE

GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE LIBRARY:

BEING

A CLASSIFIED COLLECTION OF THE CHIEF CONTENTS OF THE GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE FROM 1731 TO 1868.

EDITED BY

GEORGE LAURENCE GOMME, F.S.A.

ENGLISH TOPOGRAPHY, PART V. (HAMPSHIRE— HUNTINGDONSHIRE.)

EDITED BY F. A. MILNE, M.A.

LONDON: ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.G. \

1894.

>A

&4 v \

P RE FA C E .

THE fact that these contributions to the old Gentleman's Magazine on topographical subjects were written by people personally acquainted with the places they were describing gives a charm and value to them which otherwise they would not possess. Nowhere else are to be found notes on parish history of so peculiar an interest as these. They depict not only a state of things which, alas ! has to some extent disappeared, but which to a still greater extent has not been recorded elsewhere, and the future historian of these localities, as well as the visitor who cares for the history of places he is staying at, will do well to consult these collections.

The counties dealt with in this volume are Hampshire, Hereford- shire, Hertfordshire, and Huntingdonshire — unequally, of course, as in the preceding volumes, because no attempt was made to syste- matically describe each county. Of these four, the most information is given about Hants, then Hertfordshire ; Herefordshire, again, is not so full ; while the Hunts portion is very limited.

The information most generally supplied relates to church history and to family history. The church history is very full and particu- larly instructive, because for the most part it deals with parish churches. Their connection with the chief families, their quaint relics of former periods, and their intimate connection with the people are very evident. So, too, is the monstrous manner in which these national structures have been handled. Mr. King's objections to the treatment of Eling Church, Hampshire (p. 68), is a case in point, but considering that in this volume the condition of St. Alban's Abbey Church in 1803 (p. 262) is described, there is not much room for other regrets. Bad as that noble church was then, it is far worse

vi Preface.

now. Neglect of a structure like this is to be deplored, of course ; ignorant destruction of it, such as Lord Grimthorpe is now indulging in, only adds the strongest of all arguments to the plea that these national structures should be taken out of the hands of those who cannot protect them, and placed in the hands of the Government, who would not dare, if they wished, to be so gratuitously wanton in effacing the beauties and the records of our ancestors. Mr. Mackenzie Walcott's contributions on church history are always valuable, and particularly so is his transcript of the " Survey of the scite of the Abbey of St. Albans, 2 Edward VI." (pp. 266, 267). Among special items of church history incidentally mentioned are bells, chancel screens, corporation pew at Romsey (p. 107), and manor pew at Therfield (p. 290), fonts, lanterns, mural paintings, pulpits, organs, piscinae, rood-screens and lofts, oratories, and yew-trees.

On church folk-lore, we have the building tradition of Eling Church (p. 68), the curious fish sculpture at Peterchurch, with the " perfectly contemptible " village tradition concerning it (p. 200), and its probable connection with the curious and archaic cult of the fish-virgin, the procession of the image of St. Alban (p. 271), the mermaid carving at Nateley Scures (p. 87), and the boundary procession at Basingstoke (p. 40). The mound called " Bevis's Grave" at Farlington, near Portsmouth, is an extremely interesting name recalling the local legend of Bevis of Hampton.

Family history is represented on almost every page. Inscriptions in the churches are oftentimes of the greatest value to genealogists, and here they will find plenty of examples, a special index giving full reference to the names occurring on brasses and monumental effigies.

An extremely interesting list of portraits at Hinchinbroke House is given on pp. 317-321, and at Hampton Court, Herefordshire, on 1'P- 'yS'1??- These afford examples of what could be done by our archreological societies if they would collect into one alphabet a complete record of family portraits in each county. Many of the country houses contain treasures of great value in the shape of ancestral portraits, the existence of which are known to few, and which, besides giving evidence of the progress of art in portrait- painting, tell us a great deal about the dress of different periods of history. A properly annotated catalogue, with artists' names where possible, and. birth and death dates of the subject of each portrait, would be an undertaking of value in many ways, and the county families would probably assist in such work in other ways than by

Preface. vii

giving permission for such a catalogue to be compiled. KnebwortK, the home of the Lyttons, is described on pp. 252-257, and Gorham- bury, built by Sir Nicholas Bacon, and now the seat of the Earl of Verulam, on pp. 275-284. In connection with this there is an interest- ing list of the charges expended by the Chancellor upon the occasion of Queen Elizabeth visiting Gorhambury in 1577, which charges amounted to a sum total, " besides a Cupp presented to the Queenes Majestic," of ^577 6s. -j\d. The question of prices is always an interesting one for many students, and in this connection may be mentioned the inventories and funeral expenses of Hampshire clergy in the sixteenth century, given on pp. 17-20. Some few years ago I had the pleasure of visiting Gorhambury by the invitation of Lord Verulam, whose kindness and sympathy I have experienced on many occasions, and I was then shown some library and family treasures which enable me to appreciate well this description of the old house.

Several fairs are described, the most important being the St. Giles's Hill Fair at Winchester (p. 144). The note upon the famous cricket ground of Hambledon at Broadhalfpenny takes us back to the early days of county cricket.

Each article is reprinted just as it stands in the original, and only such passages are omitted as are not needed as a record of facts, or as illustrative of the description given by each writer.

G. LAURENCE GOMME.

BARNES COMMON. October, 1894.

CONTENTS.

HAMPSHIRE:

General

The Norman Architecture of Hampshire

Hampshire Clergy in the Sixteenth Century

Excursion in 1828

A Peep into Hampshire

Aldershot

Alresford

Andover

Basing

Basingstoke

Beaulieu

Bighton

Bishop's Sutton -

Bishop's Waltham

Bramshot

Christchurch

Kaston

East Meon

Eling -

Ellingham

Emsworth

Farlington

Faringdon

Freefolk

Havant

Herriard

3 13 13-17 17-20 20-26 26-29 29-30 30-34 34-35 35-36 37-42 42-46 46-47 47-48 48

48-51 51-62 62-63 63-67 67-73 73-75 75

75-78 78-80 80-82 83-84 36-37

Contents.

HAMPSHIRE continued —	PAGE
Hursley	84
Kingsclere	84
Laverstoke	80-82
Merestead	85
Nateley Scares -	- 85-89
Netley	- 89-93
New Forest	93.96
Ovington	34
Portsmouth	96-97
I'ortswood - '	- 97-98
Kingwood	98
Romsey	- 99-107
Southampton	108
Southwick	108
Stockbridge	- 108-109
Stoneham	- 109-110
Tichborne	- IIO-III
Tytherley	in
Upham	- III-II2
Upton Grey	- II2-II4
Warblington	- II4-II6
Wherwell	• II6-II7
Winchester	- II7-ISO
Wolmer	ISO
Vately	' ISO-IS3
ISI.E OK WK;HT	- 153-156
HEREFORDSHIRE :
General	159-163
Aconbury	- 163-164
Burford	164
Burghope	- 167 168
Dilwyn	- 164-165
Dore -	- 168-171
Downton	- 203-205
Eccleswall	172
Goodrich	- 172-173
Hampton Bishop	- «73-'77
Hereford	• 178-183

Contents.

XI

HEREFORDSHIRE continued —	PAGE
Kilpeck	- 184-186
Kingsland	- 186-191
Kington	191
Knill -	- 191-192
Leominster	- 192-195
Longtown	195
Longworth	- 195-196
Marden	196
Nonupton	197
Petcrchurch	- 197-200
Pulley	200
Stretford	- 165-167
Tedstone Delamere	- 2OI-2O2
Walford	- 2O2-203
Weobly	I65
Wigmore	- 203-205
Wilton	205
HERTFORDSHIRE :
General	- 2O9-2I6
Ayot St. Laurence	217
Barnet	- 217-218
Berkhampstead -	- 2I8-22O
Bishop's Stortford	- 22O-223
Brent Pelham	- 223-226
Broxbournc	- 226-229
Cheshunt	- 229-244
Clothall	244
Flamstead	- 244-249
Hatfield . -	249
Hemel Ilempstead	- 249-250
Hertingfordbury	250
Hinxworth	- 250-252
Hunsdon	252
Knebworth	' 252-257
Market Street •	- 257-260
Paul's Walden -	- 26O-26I
Ridge -	- 261-262
St. Alban's	- 262-284
Sawbridgeworth -	• 284287

xii Contents.

HERTFORDSHIRE continued — PAGE

Therfield • - 287-293

Thorley - 293-297

Thundridge - • • 297-298

Waltham Cross • - 298-301

Westmill 3°'

Wheathampstead • 301-302

HUNTINGDONSHIRE :

General - 305-308

Alwalton - 308-309

Buckden - 309-316

Hinchinlirokc - 316-321

Yaxley - 321-322

INDEX OF NAMES - - 325-342

INDEX OF SUBJECTS - 343-349

Hampshire.

VOL. XVII.

HAMPSHIRE.

[1817, Part I., pp. 505-512.]

ANCIENT STATE AND REMAINS.

British Inhabitants. — Segontiaci, who were afterwards dispossessed by the Belgae.

Raman Proi'ince.— Britannia Prima. Stations. — Venta Belgarum, Winchester ; Vindonum, Silchester ; Clausentum, Bittern ; Brigse, Eroughton ; Andaoreon, Andover. The Isle of Wight was called Vectis.

Saxon Heptarchy. — Westsex.

Antiquities. — Silchester Roman Remains ; Buckland Rings and Danebury Camps ; Winchester Cathedral, College, Cross, Westgate, Round Table, and Bishop's Castle of Wolversey ; Hospital of St. Cross ; Hide, Netlev, Beaulieu, and Quarr in the Isle of Wight Abbeys ; St. Dionysius' Priory ; Christ Church, Ramsey, and St. Michael's, Southampton Churches ; Basingstoke Holy Ghost Cliapel ; Winchester Cathedral, St. Michael's, Southampton, and East Meon Fonts; Southampton Walls and Gates; Carisbrook in the Isle of Wight, Christ Church, Hurst, Odiham, Porchester and Warblington Castles.

Winchester was the Saxon Metropolis. The Cathedral was founded by Cinegils, first Christian King of Westsex, and dedicated by St. Birinus in 648. In it were interred the remains of its founder, Cinegils, and Cynewulf, Kings of Westsex ; of Egbert, the first King of England; Ethel wolf; Alfred the Great, whose body was afterwards removed to Hide ; Edward the Elder ; Edred ; Edwy ; Canute the Great; Hardicanute; Emma, "the Pearl of Normandy," wife of the two Kings Ethelred the Unready and Canute, and mother of the two Kings Hardicanute and Edward the Confessor ; and William Rufus. Among the more eminent of its Bishops who had sepulture here were St. Swithin, the Patron Saint of the City ; Henry

Hampshire.

de Blois, the brother of Stephen ; Peter de Rupibns, guardian of Henry III. ; William of VVykeham, the celebrated architect ; Cardinal Beaufort, whose death is so impressively described by Shakespeare ; William Waynfleet, and the persecuting Stephen Gardiner.

The Round Table, popularly attributed to Arthur, more probably owed its origin to Stephen, to prevent disputes for precedency among his attendants.

Hide was a Mitred Abbey, founded in mo by Henry I., and to it were removed the bones of Alfred the Great, his Queen, Alswitha, his sons, Ethel ward and Edward. It was also the repository of the relics of St. Grimbald and St. Judocus.

At Whorwell, in a nunnery founded in expiation of her murder of Edward the Martyr, Elfrida, the beautiful but infamous Queen of Edgar, was interred.

At Beaulieu Ab> ey, Eleanor, Queen of Henry II., was buried.

In Rumsey Abbey (founded by Edward the Elder, whose daughter Elfleda was the first Abbess) was educated Matilda, daughter of Malcolm, King of Scots, and Queen of Henry I., under the govern- ment of Christina, cousin to Edward the Confessor. Mary, daughter of Stephen, was its Abbess, but she renounced the veil, and married Matthew, younger son of Theodoric, Earl of Flanders.

PRESENT STATE AND APPEARANCE.

Rirers. — Alne, Anton, Avon, Auburn, Boldre-water, Exe, Hamble, Itc-hen, Loddon, Stour, Test or Tees, Tillhill, Wey. — Isle of Wight : Medina, Yar, Woolen, Shanklin.

Inland Navigation, — Basingstoke (which near Odiham passes through a tunnel nearly three quarters of a mile long), Andover, South- ampton and Salisbury canals. Southampton Water, Boldre Water, Avon, Itchin and Stour rivers. — Isle of Wight : Medina and Yar rivers ; Brading and Newtown harbours.

Lakes. — Alresford Pond, head of the Itchen ; Alverstoke and Sowley Lakes.

Eminences and Views. — Portsdown Hill, on which a fair is held on July 26 ; Wey Hill, on which is a large fair, beginning October 9; Danebury Hill, the subject of a poem by Mrs. Buncombe; Sidon Hill in Hit;h Close Park. Eaglehurst Cliff.— Isle of Wight: St. Catherine's Hill, the highest in the island, 750 feet above high-water mark. Culver Cliffs. Cari-brook Castle. Pyramid on Ashley Down ; Bembridge Down.

Natural Curiosities. — Hurst Castle Causeway; Shingles, Portsea and Hayling islands ; Hengistbury Head ; New, Alice Holt, Woolmer and Bere forests. In Dibdin churchyard a yew-tree 30 feet in circumference ; Cadenham oak, remarkable for its early vegetation.— Isle of Wight: Needles Rocks; Blackgang, Luccomb and Shanklin chines : St. Catherine's cliffs ; Hermit's hole in Culver's

Present State and Appearance. 5

Cliff ; Freshwater Cave ; Dunnose Promontory ; Pitland and Shanklin medicinal springs.

Public Edifices. — Portsmouth fortifications, the strongest in England ; Dockyard, gun-wharf, victualling-office, anchor-wharf and forge, rope-houses, Government-house ; Fort Monkton, Royal Hospital at Haslar. — Isle of Wight : Newport House of Industry ; Freshwater Lighthouse.

Seats. — Hurn Court, Earl of Malmesbury, lord-lieutenant of the county : Appuldurcombe (Isle of Wight), Hon. C. A. Pelham ; Ash Park, John Portal, Esq. ; Avington, Marquis of Buckingham ; Belle Vue, Admiral Biigh ; Bevis Mount, Henry Elton, Esq. ; Blackbrook Place, George Purvis, Esq. ; Bramshill Park, Sir Richard Cope, Bart. ; Breamore, Sir Edward Hulse, Bart. ; Broadlands, Viscount Palmerston ; Cadlands Park, A. Drummond, Esq. ; Cam's Hall, John Delme, Esq. ; Cowrs East Castle (Isle of Wight), John Nash, Esq. ; Cranbury Park, Lady Holland ; Cuffnells, Right Hon. George Rose; Dogmersfield, Sir H. C. St. J. Mildmay ; Eaglehurst, Earl of Cavan ; Elvetham, General Gwynne ; Farleigh Wallop, Earl of Portsmouth ; Freshwater House (Isle of Wight), Ed. Rushworth, Esq. ; Froyle Place, Sir Thomas Miller, Bart. ; Gatcomb, Sir Roger Curtis, Bart. ; Gatcomb (Isle of Wight), Colonel Campbell ; Grange Park, Henry Drummond, Esq. ; Hackwood House, Lord Bolton ; Highclere House, Earl of Caernarvon ; Hinton House, Sir George Ivison Tapps : Hursley Lodge, Sir W. Heathcote, Bart. ; Hurst- bourne Park, Earl of Portsmouth ; Idsworth Park, Rev. Sir Samuel Clerk Jervoise ; Kempshot Park, J. C. Crook, Esq.; Knighton House (Isle of Wi^ht), M. Bisset, Esq. ; Mottisfont, Sir Charles Mill, Bart ; Newtown Park, H. C. Plowden, Esq. ; Norris (Isle of Wight), Lord Henry Seymour; Northcourt (Isle of Wight), R. H. A. Bennett, Esq. ; Nunwell (Isle of Wight), Sir Williams Oglander ; Paulton, Hans Sloane, Esq. ; Pidford House (Isle of Wight), Sir L. T. Worsley Holmes ; Portswood House, Dowager Lady Kingston ; Purbrook Park, Lord Keith ; Red Rice, Henry Errington, Esq. ; Roch Court, Sir J. W. S. Gardiner, Bart. ; Rodenham, Sir J. W. Pollen, Bart. ; Shawford, Sir H. C. St. J. Mildmay, Bart. ; Sidmon- ton, Sir Robert Kingsmill, Bart. ; Sombourne House, William Pow- lett Powlett, Esq.; Strathfieldsaye, Lord Rivers; Steephill (Isle of Wight), Earl of Dysart ; Stoneham Park, Mrs. Fleming ; Stratton Park, Sir Thomas Baring, Bart. ; Swainsion (Isle of Wight), Sir John Barrington, Bart. ; Titchborne, Sir H. Tichborne, Bart. ; The Vine, William Chute, Esq. ; Walhampton, Sir Harry Neale, Bart.

HISTORY.

A.D. 43, Isle of Wight, Vectis, conquered by Vespasian. A.D. 501, at Portsmouth, landed Porta with his sons Bieda and Mi-gla, by whose aid Cerdic established the kingdom of Westscx.

Hampshire.

A.D. 530, Isle of Wight subdued by Cenlic, first King of Wcstsex.

A.D. 635, at Winchester, Cinegils, King of Westsex, and Quicelm his brother, converted to Christianity, and baptized by St. Birmus.

A.D. 827, at Winchester, Egbert crowned first King of England.

A.D. 854, at Winchester, Ethel wulf granted his charter for the general establishment of tithes.

A.D. 871, at Basing, Ethelred and Alfred defeated by the Danes.

A.D. 934, at Winchester, Colbrand, a gigantic Dane, killed in single combat by Guy, Earl of Warwick.

A.D. 961, at Winchester, Edgar imposed on the Welsh a tribute of 300 wolves' heads to be delivered to him annually at his castle of Wolversey (whence its name), and commuted offences by the delivery of a certain number of wolves' tongues in proportion to the offence ; by which laws these destructive animals were extirpated.

A.D. 994, at Andover, Oiaus, King of Norway, baptized, Ethelred the Unready standing sponsor.

A.D. 1002, at Winchester, November 13, began the general massacre of the Danes by order of Ethelred the Unready.

A.D. 1034, at Southampton, Canute rebuked the impious flattery of his courtiers by sitting, crowned, on the beach, and commanding the tide not to approach his footstool.

A.D. 1042, at Winchester, on Easter Day, Edward the Confessor crowned with great pomp.

A.D. 1052, at Winchester, died Emma, the mother of Edward the Confessor, who, according to Brompton and Knighton, being accustd of incontinence with Alwyn, Bishop of Winchester, underwent, with- out injury, the ordeal of walking blindfold and barefoot over nine red-hot ploughshares placed at unequal distances in the Cathedral.

A.D. 1053, at Winchester, the powerful Earl Goodwin died suddenly whilst at table with Edward the Confessor.

A.D. 1075, at Winchester, Waltheof, the great Earl of Northum- berland, beheaded for having, in an hour of intemperance, joined in a conspiracy against William the Conqueror, the plot of which he first disclosed to the tyrant, and submitted to his clemency.

A.D. 1079, New Forest made by William the Conqueror, an extent of 40 miles in circumference laid waste, 36 churches and villages destroyed to form a royal chase.

A.D. 1081, in New Forest, Richard, second son of the Conqueror, killed by a stag.

A.D. 1 100, in New Forest, August 2, William Rufus, whilst hunting, accidentally slain by an arrow shot by Sir Walter Tyrrel, one of his attendants, which, glancing from a tree, penetrated his heart.

A.D. 1 100, at Winchester, August 3, Henry I. with his sword compelled William de Bretevil to deliver up to him the treasury, crovrn and sceptre.

History, 7

A.D. i ioo, at Winchester, November n, Henry I. married to Matilda, daughter of Malcolm, King of Scots.

A.D. noi, at Portsmouth, August, Robert, Duke of Normandy, eldest son of the Conqueror, landed with his army to dispossess his brother, Henry I., of the crown, but by the intervention of the barons he accepted an annual payment and relinquished his design.

A.D. 1140, at Portsmouth, landed the Empress Maud and her brother Robert, Earl of Gloucester, with only 140 attendants, to force the crown from the usurper Stephen.

A.D. 1141, from Winchester, besieged by its Bishop, Henry of Blois, brother of Stephen, the Empress Maud escaped ; but her General, Robert, Earl of Gloucester, was pursued, and taken at Stockbridge, and afterwards exchanged for Stephen, then in prison at Bristol.

A.D. 1153, at Winchester, the Treaty of Wallingford, in Berk- shire, between Stephen and Henry, formally ratified.

A.D. 1189, at Winchester, Richard I. on ascending the throne nd in the treasury ^900,000.

A.D. 1194, at Winchester, Richard I. after his long confinement had a second coronation, when William King of Scots carried the sword of state.

A.D. 1213, in Winchester Cathedral, John absolved from the sentence of excommunication by Cardinal Langton.

A.D. 1215, to the Isle of Wight John retired whilst negotiating with the Pope for absolution from his oath to observe Magna Charta, and whilst raising troops on the Continent to revenge himself on the Barons who extorted it.

A.D. 1216, Odiham Castle, defended by only three officers and ten soldiers for fifteen days against Lewis the Dauphin and his army, at last surrendered OP condition of having their freedom, horses and arms.

A.D. 1266, near Alton, the famous free-booter, Sir Adam Gordon, conquered in single combat by Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., who gave him his life, and thus converted a daring enemy to a stead- fast friend.

A.D. 1285, at Winchester, October, the laws known by the name of "the Statutes of Winchester" enacted by the Parliament of Edward I.

A.D. 1329, at Winchester, March 14, Edmund of Woodstock, Earl of Kent, uncle of Edward III., bt-hended through the intrigues of Queen Isabella, " she-wolf of France," and her paramour, Morti- mer, Earl of Man h.

A.D. 1338, Southampton, October 4, plundered and burnt by the French, Spaniards and Genoese, but the son of the King of Sicily and 300 of the invaders were slain.

A.D. 1346, from Southampton, July, sailed Edward III., his son

8 Hampshire.

Edward the Black Prince, and the army that gained the victory of Cressy.

A.D. 1357, from Odiham Castle, David Bruce, King of Scots, taken prisoner at the battle of Neville's Cross, in Durham ; after a confinement of eleven years was liberated on payment of 100,000 ir.arks and giving hostages for his future conduct.

A.D. 1377, in the Isle of Wight, Rye, Newtown and Yarmouth burnt by the French, who were repulsed by Sir Hugh Tyrrel in an attempt to obtain Carisbrook Castle.

A.D. 1401, at Winchester, Henry IV. married by Bishop Wykeham to Joanne, Dowager Duchess of Bretagne.

A.D. 1415, at Southampton, conspiracy against the life of Henry V. detected, and, July 20, the traitors, the Earl of Cambridge, Lord Scroop of Masham, and Sir Thomas Grey of Northumberland, executed, immediately before the sailing of the army that fought at Agincourt.

A.D. 1445, at Portsmouth (April) landed Margaret of Anjou with the Marquis (afterwards Duke) of Suffolk, and proceeded to South- wick, where she was married to Henry VI.

A.D. 1445, the Isle of Wight created a kingdom by Henry VI. who himself placed the crown on the head of its only Sovereign, Henry Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick.

A.D. 1471, at Beaulieu, Margaret of Anjou and her son Prince Edward, on hearing of the defeat and death of the Earl of Warwick, took sanctuary till joined by the Duke of Somerset and other partizans, who pursuaded her to struggle once more for the throne.

A.D. 1498, at Beaulieu, Perkin Warbeck, after his repulse before Exeter, took sanctuary, whence he surrendered himself to Henry VII. on promise of his life.

A.D. 1523, at Southampton, July 6, the Emperor, Charles V., who had previously been entertained at Winchester by Henry VIII., embarked on board the English fleet, which conveyed him to Spain.

A.D. 1554, at Southampton, July 21, Philip, Prince of Spain, after- wards Philip II., landed; and at Winchester, July 25, was married to Mary I. of England.

A.D. 1603, at Winchester, on the death of Elizabeth, James VI. of Scotland proclaimed King of England by Sir Benjamin Tich- borne, Sheriff of the county, on his own responsibility, without orders from the Privy Council ; for his promptitude he was rewarded with the Castle at Winchester and an annuity of £100.

A.D. 1603, at Winchester, Lord Grey de Wilton, Lord Cobham, and Sir Walter Raleigh were tried and condemned for a pretended conspiracy against James I., the latter on the written evidence of a single witness, without even being confronted with his accuser.

A.D. 1620, ;it Portsmouth, September, George Villiers, Duke of

History. 9

Buckingham, whilst preparing to embark as Commander of an expedition to relieve the Protestants in Rochelle, stabbed by Felton.

A.D. 1643, at Alton, December, the Royalist Colonel Bowles killed, and his regiment taken prisoners, by Sir William Walltr.

A.D. 1645, Basing House heroically defended by John Paulet, fifth Marquis of Winchester, from August, 1643 ; at length stormed by Cromwell in October, 1645.

A.D. 1647, at Titchfield House, Charles I., after his escape from Hampton Court, concealed, until he surrendered himself to Colonel Hammond, Captain of the Isle of Wight, under whose custody he was confined in Carisbrook Castle for thirteen months, when he was seized by the army. November 29, 1648, conveyed to Hurst Castle, and thence taken to London to execuiion.

A. D. 1662, at Portsmouth, May 14, landed Catharine, Infanta of Portugal, and next day married to Charles II.

A.D. 1685, at Winchester, September, Mrs. Alicia Lisle, nearly eighty years of age, beheaded by order of the infamous Jefferies for harbouring two unfortunate fugitives from the battle of Sedgemoor.

A.D. 1814, Portsmouth, June, visited by the Prince Regent, Alexander I. Emperor of Russia, Frederick William III. King of Prussia, Duke of Wellington and Marshal Blucher.

AD. 1815, off Portsmouth, August, Napoleon Buonaparte, a prisoner on board his Majesty's ship the Bellerophon, Captain Mait- land, and thence conveyed by the Northumberland, Admiral Sir G. Cockburn, to St. Helena.

BIOGRAPHY.

Alton, William of, author on "Original Sin " (flourished 1300).

Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII., Winchester, 1486.

Basingstoke, John of, Greek scholar (died 1252).

Beavois, St., Earl of Southampton, warrior (rlor. temp. William I.).

Bilson, Thomas, Bishop of Winchester, Winchester, 1548.

Cotton, Henry, Bishop of Salisbury, Warblington (died 1615).

Coward, William, medical and metaphysical writer, Winchester, 1656.

Curtis, William, botanist, author of "Flora Londinensis," Alton, 1746.

Dibden, Charles, song writer. Southampton, about 1758.

Ethelwald, St., Bishop of Winchester, Winchester (died 984).

Fuller, Nicholas, divine, author of " Miscellanea Theologica," Southampton, 1557.

Graves, John, mathematician and antiquary, Colmere, 1602.

Guidott, Thomas, physician, Lymington, 1638.

Hamilton, Emma, Lady, companion of Nelson, Bere Forest (died 1816).

Hamvay, Jonas, philanthropist, Portsmouth, 1712.

io Hampshire.

Henry III., Winchester, 1207.

Hide, John of, author of "Homilies " (flor. 1284).

Highmore, Nathaniel, anatomist, Fordingbridge, 1613.

Hobson, Admiral, Bonchurch (Isle of Wight).

Hooke, Robert, mathematician and philosopher, Freshwater (Isle of Wight), 1635.

Hunton, Pnilip, divine and political writer, Andover (died 1682).

Jacob, Giles, author of Law Dictionary, Romsey. 1690.

James, Richard, divine, critic, and antiquary, Newport (Isle of Wight), (died 1638).

James, Thomas, divine and critic, Newport (Isle of Wight), 1571.

Lakes, Arthur, Bishop of Bath and Wells, Southampton, 1543.

Lakes, Sir Thomas, Secretary of State to James I., Southampton.

Lancaster, Sir James, gave name to sound in Baffin's Bay, Basing- stoke (died 1617).

Lily, William, grammarian, Odiham, 1466.

Lowth, Robert, Bishop of London, Winchester, 1710.

Pace, Richard, Dean of St. Paul's, Statesman, Winchester, 1482.

Petty, Sir William, physician and mechanist, Romsey, 1623.

Philpot, John, divine and martyr (burnt in Smithfield, 1555).

Pink, Robert, philosopher and divine, Kempshot (died 1647).

Pits, John, Dean of Verdun, biographer, Alton, 1560.

Pococke, Richard, Bishop of Meath, traveller, Southampton, 1704.

Potenger, John, poet and translator, Winchester, 1647.

Purver, Anthony, Quaker, translator of the Bible, Up Hursborn, 1702.

Rich, Sir Richard, Baron Lees, Chancellor to Edward VI. (died about 1559).

Russel, Francis, antiquary, Basing<toke, 1740.

Russe', John, BUhop of Lincoln, Chancellor to Richard III., St. Peter's (died 1490).

Sherborn, Robert, Bishop of Chichester, improver of his cathedral (die.l 1536).

Steele, Anne, author of poems under the name of Theodosia, Broughton.

Sternhold, Thomas, versifier of the Psalms (died 1549).

Swithin, Saint, Bishop of Winchester, Winchester (died 862).

Tomson, Robert, author of " Description of New Spain," Andover, sixteenth century.

Uddl, Nicholas, dramatic writer, servant to Catharine Parr, 1506.

Urn, John, editor of Chaucer, Gatcornb (Isle of Wight), 1663.

Wallop, Sir J"hn, naval commander, sixteenth century.

Warham, William, Archbishop of Canterbury, and Chancellor, Malsanger, 1456.

Warton, Joseph, poet and critic, Basingstoke, 1722.

Warton, Thomas, Poet-Laureate, Basingstoke, 1728.

Biography, \ i

Watts, Isaac, divine and poet, Southampton, 1674.

White, John, Bishop of Winchester, controversialist and poet (died 1560).

White, Richard, historian, Regius professor at Douay, Basingstoke, sixteenth century.

Winchelsea, Anne, Countess of, poet, Sidmonton (died 1720).

Winchester, Laniprid of, " Doctor Eximius " (flor. 980).

Winchester, Wolstan of, scholar (flor. noo).

Withers, George, pastoral poet, Bentworth, 1588.

Wykeham, William of, Bishop ot Winchester, architect, 1324.

Young, Edward, poet and divine, Upham, 1681.

MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS.

In Alverstoke Church is a cenotaph in memory of Admiral Kem- penfeldt, who in August, 1782, with four hundred men and two hundred women, was lost on board the Royal George at Spithead.

Basingstoke was the vicarage of Sir George Wheler, the Oriental traveller, and of the father of the two celebrated Wartons.

Bevis Mount was the property and frequent residence of Charles Mordaunt, Earl of Peterborough, the rival of Marlborough, and the friend of Pope, Arbuthnot, and Swift ; the latter of whom has cele- brated him in his " Mordanto fills the trump of Fame."

Bishop's Waltham and its neighbourhood, in the early part of last century, was infested by a daring gang of depredators, who, from their custom of blacking their faces to prevent discovery, were termed "Waltham Blacks," and to restrain whom the famous Black Act was passed, 9 George II., 1723. At his palace here died the architect William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester.

Boldre was the rectory and residence of the tourist William Gilpin, who founded two schools there, and endowed them by the sale of his drawings and sketches.

Canham, or Cannon's Lodge, was the occasional residence of H.R.H. the late Duke of Cumberland; on a visit to whom at this place the comedian Foote broke his leg.

At Crux Easton was a grotto, the shell of which only remains, constructed by nine sisters of the name of Lisle, celebrated by the muse of Pope.

In Ellingham Churchyard lie the remains of the venerable victim of the inhuman Jefferies, Mrs. Alicia Lisle.

Exbury House is the seat of Colonel Mitford, the historian of Greece.

At Freefolk are the mills where the paper for Bank-notes has been manufactured ever since the reign of George I.

At Hursley Park Richard Cromwell resided during the Protectorate of his father; and in Hursley Church he was buried with his wife and several of his children.

1 2 Hampshire.

In Langley Wood, New Forest, in 1758, was felled an oak which had three hundred rings of annual growth, and whose trunk was 36 feet in circumference.

Mapledurham was the seat and principal residence of the historian Gibbon.

Netley Abbey is celebrated in the verses of Keate, Southeby, and Bowles.

In Newport Church, Isle of Wight, was interred Elizabeth, daughter of Charles I., who died a prisoner in Carisbrook Castle, September 8, 1650, aged fifteen years, whom the levelling rulers of that time intended to apprentice to a button-maker.

In North Stoneham Church are monuments of Chief Justice Sir Thomas Flemyng, and of the victor of Conflans, Admiral Lord Hawke.

At Porchester and Southwitk the publicans are exempted by a charter of Elizabeth from having any soldiers billeted or quartered upon them.

At Portsmouth, in the Church of St. Thomas, is a cenotaph in memory of Villiers Duke of Buckingham, stabbed by Felton. The fire in the Dockyard in 1776 was caused by John Aitken, commonly called "Jack the Painter," who was executed for the crime. In 1793 L 'Iinpctueux, of 74 guns, taken by Lord Howe on June i, and in 1705 the Hoytie, of 98 guns, were destroyed in the harbour by fire.

In Romsey Church lies Sir William Petty, the founder of the Lansd'-wn family. There is a handsome monument and quaint epitaph in memory of John St. Barbe and his wife, who both died in 1659.

Sandown Cottage, Isle of Wight, was the retreat of John Wilkes, of political notoriety.

Selborne has had its natural history and antiquities most elegantly and instructively described by its late vicar, the Rev. Gilbert White.

At Southampton, in St Michael's Church, is the monument of Lord Chancellor Wriothesley. In All Saints' Church lie the remains of the circumnavigator Captain Carteret, and of Brian Edwards the historian of the West Indies, who lived at Springfield near this town. In Holyrood Church is a monument by Ryshrach, in memory of Miss Eliz. Stanley, with an inscription by Thomson, who has also celebrated her in " The Seasons."

At Twyford was a Catholic seminary, where Pope was partly educated. In the church is an excellent bust, by Nollekens, of Dr. Jonathan Shipley, Bishop of St. Asaph.

At Watcombe, near Brockenhurst, for three years resided the philanthropist Howard.

Wickham Parsonage House was the retreat of Dr. Warton, Master of Winchester College and editor of Pope.

By an ordinance of F>dgar's, to prevent fraud, one measure was

The Norman Architecture of Hampshire. 13

established for the whole kingdom, and the standard vessel being kept at Winchester was the origin of the term "Winchester measure." St. Swithin, at his own private solicitation, was buried in the church- yard instead of the chancel of his cathedral, and when an order was obtained to remove his relics into the choir, a most violent shower of rain fell on the destined day, and continued for the thirty-nine suc- cessive days without intermission, in consequence of which the idea of- removal was abandoned as displeasing to St. Swithin, though the saint afterwards relented and suffered his bones to be taken from the cemetery and lodged among the remains of the other bishops, in the year 1093. The vulgar adage that we shall have forty days' con- tinuance of wet weather, whenever rain falls on St. Swithin's festival (July 15), doubtless arose from this presumed supernatural circum- stance. BYRO.

The Norman Architecture of Hampshire.*

[1862, Part I., pp. 162-167.]

At a former meeting of this association I offered a few remarks upon the peculiarities in the arrangement of the nave and aisles of the Priory Church of Chnstchurch,f and drew attention to the remark- able similarity of Dean Flambard's building at Christchurch and his later work at Durham Cathedral, where he also erected the nave and some other parts. The repetition here of the same mouldings, and in many respects the precise composition, would leave no doubt (were even history silent upon the point), that the works were the produc- tion of the same architect ; no one examining and comparing the two buildings could hesitate in pronouncing that they were designed by the same man.

Pursuing, then, an examination of the other Norman remains in this county, at Winchester Cathedral and Romsey Abbey Church, we shall find that though they afford very fine examples of Norman work, the character of the architecture is of a totally different type to that employed by Flambard as Dean of Christ Church and after- wards Bishop of Durham.

In Flambard's designs there is a completeness and unity in com- position. The arcades are perfect in themselves, and the vaulting- shafts so disposed as to connect triforium and clerestory in one harmonious composition and arrangement : also observable in the fine Norman naves of Norwich Cathedral, Peterborough Cathedral, Malmesbury Abbey Church, and also in the fine continental churches of the Abbaye aux Hommes and Abbaye aux Dames at Caen, and the Cathedral at Bayeux.

* A paper by Mr. B. Ferrey, read at the meeting of the Christchurch Archaeological and Natural History Society, Dec. 31, 1862. See Gentleman's Magazine, Feb., 1863, p. 200.

+ Gtn/leman's Afngazin', Dec., 1861, p. 607.

14 Hampshire.

At Romsey the ireatment is wholly dissimilar. Here in the nave we find tall cylindrical columns of great height extending through th>; space usually assigned to the triforium, and surmounted only by a clerestory arcade. The like arrangement is observable at Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford ; Gloucester Cathedral, and Tewkesbury Abbey Church. At Romsey, and at Christ Church, Oxford, the dis- position of the triforium is as though it was an afterthought and an interpolation — the arches of the secondary arcade, springing on one side from corbels and on the other from vertical columns, have an awkward effect, and can scarcely be defended upon any true principles of design. This odd arrangement is particularly observable at Christ Church, Oxford ; and Britton, the antiquary, remarks :

" We may rationally suppose both edifices to have been in progress at the same period, and this supposition is corroborated by the fact of several of the capitals in each church being sculptured with a similar kind of wreathed and other foliage. There is much reason to believe that Christ Church Cathedral was commenced by Prior Guy- mond in Henry the First's reign, and the general style of the eastern division of Romsey Church (including the transept) will fully warrant our assigning it to the early part of the same reign, although it was probably designed, if not commenced, in that of Rufus. Now assuming that the architect of Romsey Church had begun the erection of the nave at the time that Christ Church was in progress, may we not infer, without the infringement of the laws of probability, that from a wish to assimilate a part of his own edifice to the design of the latter building, he raised the cylindrical columns in question, but, being dissatisfied with the effect, or from some other cause, he immediately reverted to his original plan, and pursued it till the com- pletion of the fabric?"

Whether this really was the case or not, as suggested by Btitton, we must, in estimating the artistic merits of the architecture, think that the architect of Romsey did quite right in giving preference at last to the distinctive arrangement of arcade and triforium as exhibited in the eastern portion of the building ; but we should also bear in mind that the beauty of this last arrangement must be coupled with the purposes of the triforum. This church, forming part of a convent of Benedictine nuns, whose abbesses were either of royal birth or elevated rank, and its endowments extensive, would doubtless attract large numbers of religious persons from other con- ventual houses on great festivals. These would find ample space in the well constructed triforium for joining in the solemnities of the Church. Similar capacious triforia are to be found in other churches, constructed, no doubt, for like purposes.

Notwithstanding the great difference in elevation between the Norman work at the Priory Church, Christ Church, and at Romsey, as previously described, yet in many respects the plans of the

The Norman Architecture of Hampshire. 15

churches are remarkably alike. Each nave consists of seven bays with narrow processional aisles ; transepts with semicircular apsidal chapels opening out of them towards the east ; massive piers and arches at the junction of the nave and transept ; and though at Christ Church no lantern exists, there can be no doubt that originally it possessed tliis feature.* The lantern of Romsey is particularly fine, with its double arcaded front and spacious wall passages. t This part of the abbey church was till lately shut out from view by a plaster ceiling immediately above the tower arches ; it has, however, recently been raised above the arcade, displaying much architectural beauty ; but the full development is prevented owing to the belfry, which occupies the upper stage of the tower.

Comparing this lantern with the one at the cathedral church at Winchester close by, there will be found many striking points of difference. The latter has lofty and attenuated columns carrying semicircular arches, and was evidently built during the latest period of Norman architecture. This noble feature is also hid from view, not by a flat ceiling, but by an elaborately framed wooden fan- vaulting, erected immediately over the four great arches during the reign of Charles I. Unobjectionable as this imitation vaulting is in itself, we must regret that it destroys the original character of the lantern ; the internal effect of the choir would be much enhanced if this noble feature were again opened out to view.

Britton, when writing about this tower, says :

" At present a floor shuts out the first story of the lantern from the choir ; but as the object of these illustrations and this history is to re- present more the permanent than the changeable features of the church, and as the said floor is only a temporary and extraneous, but even trumpery erection, and may be removed at any time, it was deemed advisable to omit it from view."

This is hardly a correct statement ; the wooden imitation fan- vaulting, although less effective than the open lantern would be, ought not to be characterized as a "trumpery erection," unless we are prepared to condemn some of the most ingenious and beautiful wooden groinings at York Minster, Lincoln Cathedral, and else- where. Winchester Cathedral, Romsey Abbey Church, and Christ

* The ancient seal of the monastery, though it cannot be taken as showing the church in its entirety, yet no doubt represented the building with all its main features ; in it the central tower, or lantern, is distinctly represented.

t Mr. Petit, in writing upon this lantern, remarks upon a peculiarity which shows how carefully the medieval architect studied position and point of view : " The capitals of the lower arcade support an arch of two orders, which are not concentric, the upper one being stilted, and the lower one somewhat depressed, a combination far from pleasing when placed on the level of the eye ; but to the spectator below the fore-shortening of the vertical line between the highest points of the arches would reduce the composition to harmony. Of the arches in the upper tier it may be remarked that they are as purely Roman in their design as any specimen of antiquity. "

1 6 Hampshire.

Church are the only buildings on a large scale in the diocese of Winchester possessing central lanterns ; in the adjoining county of Sussex there is a remarkably pleasing example in the little church of Old Shoreham. Another magnificent lantern-tower of Norman character is also to be seen at Norwich Cathedral, for although a lofty spire has been raised above it, the lower portion, with its arcaded gallery surmounted by a second wall-arcade, and again crowned by deeply splayed lantern lights with coupled columns, forms a composition of great beauty.

Of the other Norman portions of Winchester Cathedral there are none which form a fair parallel with either Christ Church or Romsey. The transepts are of extremely severe and simple Romanesque character, it is even doubtful whether they do not belong to the Anglo-Saxon period ; but the one remarkable thing above all others connected with the cathedral is the wonderful manner in which the great architect, William of Wykeham, metamorphosed the Norman work of the nave and remodelled it in the prevailing style of his time without pulling down and rebuilding. There is no edifice in Kngland which exhibits such a vast work of transformation. At Christ Church and Romsey there are portions which have been slightly remodelled from Norman to Early English work, and distinct parts erected during the Transitional period ; and in the lower part of the north nave aisle at Christ Church traces of a complete inter- secting Norman arcade covered by the ashlaring of the Early English period have been discovered ; indeed, the whole of this aisle may be said to have undergone the process so marvellously carried out at Winchester ; but, generally speaking, the additions in each style are distinctly erected, and not mere casings upon more ancient work.

In the very masterly exposition of the architecture of Winchester Cathedral by Professor Willis, published in the Proceedings of the Archaeological Institute in 1845, {he professor dwells minutely upon the constructive means by which William of Wykeham worked out his purpose : those who accompanied the lecturer in the cathedral, and witnessed the clearness with which he established every point as he advanced, will ever remember the indisputable manner in which he proved his results. The archaeologists of Hampshire should attentively study the " Architectural History of Winchester Cathedral" written by Willis ; admirable as are all his accounts of the other cathedrals, his description of Winchester is unsurpassed.

Referring to the Norman nave by Bishop Walkelin, he says : —

" We have now arrived at the nave of the church, which exhibits one of the most curious instances of transformation from one style of architecture to another that has been preserved to us. For although at present a complete and perfect specimen of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, it is yet in the heart and core of its structure from the ground to the roof the original Norman building commenced, if

Tke Norman Architecture of Hampshire. 1 7

not completed, by Bishop Walkelin. Though these facts have been dwelt upon by Milner and subsequent writers, there are many par- ticulars that appear to me to have escaped observation, and the whole process is so curious an example of the modes of proceeding in the Middle Ages, that it deserves a very minute examination."

Willis therefore devotes an entire chapter to describing his re- searches, the perusal of which will be found most interesting, and will amply repay the reader

Reverting once more to Romsey Abbey Church, it may be remarked that it contains some fine examples of Transitional work ; in the nave we see a Norman arcade surmounted by an Early English cleres- tory; in the south transept we have an Early English wall-arcade running under the Norman windows ; and towards the west end of the nave the Early English work completely prevails. The gradual steps by which the severe Norman forms were moulded into Early English are very remarkable, and although it would be quite possible to select specimens of later Decorated architecture, and show by an examination and comparison of mouldings a Transitional period as distinct as that assigned to the twelfth and thirteenth-century work ; yet it must be admitted that Rickman the architect, who first adopted the term Transitional as applied to the progression from Norman to Early English architecture, was singularly happy in the word he employed. The manner in which Early English forms melted into Decorated, and Decorated into Perpendicular, can be less easily dis- covered, though as certainly forming a Transitional style. There are churches in Suffolk with four-centred arches and other characteristics of the Perpendicular period, yet retaining in the sections of their mouldings and in the arrangement of the secondary orders of traceried windows complete Decorated forms. These peculiarities, however, would scarcely be noticed by a casual observer, but they are still deserving of attention.

Hampshire Clergy in the Sixteenth Century.

[1864,^.635,636.]

Very little has hitherto appeared in print which gives us any idea of the manner in which our parochial clergy were wont to live in past times. At the period of the Reformation their dwellings were not only simple, but very scantily furnished, whilst their goods and chattels were rarely more than sufficient to cover their funeral expenses and dilapidations.

In the north part of Hampshire there is a small parish called Faccombe. It is a very good incumbency, being valued in the King's Books (A.D. 1535) at £26 135. 4d., and at the present time its income is close upon ^800 per annum. In 1510 Sir William Sandys, Knight, and the Lady Margery his wife, presented Sir Bernard

VOL. XVII. 2

1 8 Hampshire.

Pope, B.A., to this living, and he was instituted to it by Dr. Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchester, on December 19, 1510. This Bernard Pope was rector for a period of nearly thirty years, and died intestate in the latter part of the month of September. 1539. On October 5, 1539, Bishop Gardiner granted letters of administration to John Cooke, of Houghton, Hants. His goods had bt-en previously appraised on September 28, and their total value with money amounted to no more than ,£14 i8s. nd. I will pass over these items, and content myself with the

" Funeral! expenses and other paymentes made ly George Arkyn for the sayd Bernard Pope, lute Parson of Faccombe aforesaiii, alowyd and deducted.

Imprimis for his wyndyng shete, ij8 viij'1.

Item mete and drynke at his burynge, vij" viijd.

Item for Waxe, ij3.

Item for men and there horses to Andever,* viijd.

Item to a man to go for prestes, ij'1.

Item to prestes for masses, vj" viij'1.

Item for masse pence, xvj'1.

Item for makyng of the grave, iiij'1.

Item to the clerke, iiij11.

Item to poore peple, iij".

Item for servaunts at the sayd besynes [business], xxijd.

Item for proxis [proxies], iij" iiij'1.

Item for his house Rent for ij yere and halfe, xiij" iiijd by the yere,

xxxiij" iiij'1.

Item for the grave in the chancell, vj' viij'1. Item for the dyrigest and for the clerke, v". Item for a Trentall . . . Item for a woman to kepe hym iij quarters of a yere, x".

Summa, iij" xvs. And so there remains clerely delapidationes not deducted,

x" iij" xid."

The following is a list of the effects of another Hampshire incum- bent. This individual was a nephew of Lady Joanna, Viscountess Lysle, and had been a student in the celebrated university of Bologna. He had been instituted to several good livings, and held for many years high official appointments in the diocese of Winchester. The house wherein he lived and died is still in existence, a thatched cottage, now the residence of a poor labouring man, the parish clerk.

* Faccombe is eight and a half miles from Andover. •f The reivires for the dead.

}Iampshire Clergy in the Sixteenth Century. 19

"Inventory taken 16'* day oj March, 1549-50. Imprimis all manner of lynen, xxiijs. Item v gownes, iij" xiij' iiijd. Item all maner of bedding, iij" ix*.

Item chestes, cobbards, tables, trestles, stoles, chayres, xxj" ijj. Item all vessels of yerne, laten & pewter, liiij8 iii'1. Item typettes, cappes, and nyghtcappys, x8. Item bokes Ix in nomber, xx*. Item hangings and testurs, v*. Item stone pottes, xvjd.

Jtem vessells longing to baking and washing, viij*. Item an horselitter cum pertincntiis, iiij". Item saddelles and bridelles, iij" iiijrt. Item vj quussions and boankar, v" vj'1. Item a colte, x'. Item a nagge, vj' viij'1. Item a beustede, xij'1. Item a carte with harness, v". Item a bushell to mete come, vj'1. Item a lader and a malepilion, xiiij'1.

Sumina, xvj1' ij" ij1'."

In the following year I meet with a rector of the parish of Winnal, near Winchester, making the following bequests and disposition of his worldly goods :

" I geve and bequethe to every howse holder in Wynnall paryshe that hath nede, a quarteryn of wood and ij busselles of cole. Item to Grangeis wyffe a quarteryn of wode and ij busselles of cole. Item to John Scoll a quarteryn of wood and ij busselles of cole, and the same quantity of each to John Taylor and to Sander's wyffe. Item to Alice Kynge half a lode of wode and a quarter of cole, and a lyttyl tabell with iiij legges.and my tawney gowne, lyned with cottyn. Item to Kateryne my mayde a flocke bed that I lye on, with the blanketes and the schettes and pellow and bolster longing thereunto, and the tester, a cauderyn [cauldron] with the brodest bonde [band], and a brasse pott brokyn yn one egge, a frying pann and a gryddyern, a stone morter, a platter, a potynger with ij sawsers, ij candelstykes and a saltseller, a coverlet that lyethe on her owne bedde and my beddestede, in the parlor my lytyll kover and a coffer. Item to Thomas Waller my best clothe jaket. To Nycholas Waller my second jaket and a cauderyn with a lyteyl bonde. Item I geve to Rychard Waller a shurt clothe of ij*. Item I geve to the Mausters of the College [Winchester], xv. ; and to the chyldren [or scho'ars], vj1 viijd. Item I geve to Syr Vole my best gowne and my chamlet frock, my cappe presso and my sylken gyrdle."

2 — 2

so Hampshire.

In conclusion, I will note a few items among the effects of another parochial clergyman, who died in 1556 :

" In his house at Nutley.

Imprimis vj hundred faggottes, vj' viijd. Item three hyves with bees, vij* vjd. Item a lode of sawed tymber, vj' viijd.

" In his chamber at Winchefeld.

His bookes.

Item a paire of Portess [Portiforium, or Breviary], v' iiijd. I.yra super prophetas, ij'1. Ortus vocabulorum, ijd. A new Testamente in Englisshe, ij'1. Acta statuti de anno xxxj"10 Henr. viij, iiij11. iiij litle leaves of clene parchemente, ijd. Item a quier of paper, ij'1.

Summa, vjs vjd."

I am, etc., F. J. BAIGENT.

Excursion in 1828.

[iSjO, Part //.,//. 217-219.]

SOUTHAMPTON.

Much as the addition of recent buildings has increased the suburbs of this good town, the antiquities, as described by Sir Henry Engle- field in his agreeable publication, remain nearly in statu quo.

St. Michael's Church was under repair. The nave had been nearly rebuilt under the direction of Mr. Goodwin, the architect. The arches are pointed, springing from octangular piers; thearchivolt mouldings sustained on corbels. The plan has been rendered uniform by taking in a small piece of ground at the north-west angle. The chancel is still divided from the remainder of the church by the massive piers of the tower, the nave being used for the public services. The area is pewed, and four galleries are erected in different parts ; viz., one in each aisle, another at the west end for the charity children, and a fourth, appropriated to the use of the singers (for the church has no organ), is constructed in front of the western arch of the tower ; this latter gallery is supported by flying groins.

In the arrangement of the two pulpits, one being intended for the reading-desk, a senseless innovation has been effected ; they are situated at the west end of the nave, and consequently the whole of the congregation turn their backs on the altar. This departure from established rule must have been directed by the very spirit of innova- tion and novelty ; there is nothing in the form of the nave, or in the arrangement of the building, which could at all be urged as a reason

Excursion in 1828.

for this singular arrangement. There is no plea of convenience or expediency to justify the change, which must have entirely resulted from whim and caprice. The ancient font is now insulated, and placed in the centre of the tower. On the north side of ihe altar is a muti- lated effigy, mitred, and bearing a crozier, which was discovered in the progress of the repairs. On the opposite side is a stone coffin, and near it a piscina. The altar screen is inscribed :

"DONUM JACOHI PARKER, 1672."

The chancel has been but little altered in the reparation. The screens at the altar, mentioned by Englefield, retain their places, but the stalls he noticed have disappeared. The arch of the west window of the nave, which was formerly void, has been filled with mullions and tracery.

The statue of Queen Anne, on the Bar Gate, which excited the mirth of Sir H. Englefield, has given way to one of George III., in Roman costume, which, for any resemblance it bears to the original, may have been intended for one of the Ccesars, and economically appropriated to the English monarch ; in the same manner as a Lord Mayor of London is recorded to have transformed a statue of Sobieski into our own Charles II. The absurdity of the Roman costume is surely greater than the stiff stays and gown of the Queen, which gave such offence to Englefield.

The building called the Castle has been entirely destroyed, and on its site is a "Zion," with the date of 1823.

At Mile End, a new and extensive suburb, is a new chapel, in the Pointed style of architecture ; it is built of brick covered with stucco ; architect, Benham. At the west end are two spires, but there is nothing very striking in its architecture or decorations.

The Isle of Wight has been so often described by every description of tourist, that none of its various features of interest, whether anti- quarian or picturesque, can possibly have escaped notice.

Brading Church is probably the largest, and is reputed to be the most ancient in the island. In a chapel at the east end of the south aisle is a monument of the age of Elizabeth, consisting of an altar- tomb, surmounted with the cross-legged effigy of a knight in the plate armour of the time, extended on a mat, as the statues of this period generally are. Above this effigy, which is the size of life, is a smaller one similarly armed, which is also distinguished by the crossing of the legs.

PORTSMOUTH.

The church is a large building, consisting of a nave, transept, and chancel. The former is modern, having been rebuilt in the Italian style. The transepts and other eastern portions show the earliest Pointed architecture. The windows are lancet-formed ; the vaulting

22 Hampshire.

of the simplest description, vtry much resembling the older part of the transept of York Cathedral.

In Portsea two new chapels have been built under the directions of the commissioners for building new churches. St. Paul's Chapel is a large stiuciure of stone, in the Pointed style of architecture, built from the designs of Mr. Goodwin. It somewhat resembles Bordesley Chapel, by the same architect, engraved in vol. xcvii., pi. ii., p. 201, though very inferior in point of correctness to that building. The mullions and tracery are iron ; the latter is fantastic is design, and in its proportions little stouter than a common window-frame.

All Saints' Chapel is built of stone, in a purer taste ; it consists of a nave and aisles, and the architecture is in the best style of the fourteenth century. In the flanks are lofty windows, the tracery being varied from each other. The windows are in two heights, and in the centre is a small row of mullions at that part where the galleries cross the design, an unusual mode of arrangement, but possessing the merit of utility, and at the same time not altogether unsanctioned by ancient example.

The west front is made into three divisions, corresponding with the nave and aisles ; the butiresses which mark the division being finished with pinnacles. The central division is nearly occupied by a spacious and elegantly moulded arch, comprising within it the principal entrance, and an elegant window above it. Over this arch is a clotk, and the elevation is finished pedimentally. On the centre is a square bell turret, ending in a dwarf spire. This chapel is, upon the whole, one of the most chaste and pleasing specimens of modern 1'ointed aichitecture.

[1830, /',»//.,//. 580-583.]

ROMSEV.

The town has nothing remarkable about it except the abbey, very little of which remains besides the church and the gateway, a Tudor arch with a tower over it.

The church, large and cruciform, has a particularly substantijl appearance ; it has suffered little injury from time or violence, and affords a fine study in the earliest architecture of the country.

The great height of the lancet windows of the west front is rather unusual : in most instances of this description of architecture several tiers of windows are met with in succession ; in the present there are only three simple openings, which range the whole height of the elevation without a break. The exterior exhibits a great variety in the details of its architecture ; in those portions of the building which are in the Circular style there are manifestly two distinct descriptions The nave shows the more regular mouldings of the Norman, the choir the sportive and grotesque carvings of the Saxon

Excursion in 1828.

st>le. From the eastern side of the transepts project chapels with semicircular ends towards the east, and originally the choir terminated in a similar manner, as is still to be seen by the disposition of the columns in the interior.

The Lady chapel, it is highly probable, had its eastern extremity of the same form, but it has been destroyed at a very early period. The tracery which fills up the arch of communication with the church is in the style of the reign of Edward III. On the south side of the church, and near to the famous crucifix, is a splendidly carved Norman doorway ; among the mouldings are excellent imitations of classical ornaments. This entrance was evidently the abbess's door- way to the church ; it was originally protected by the cloisters, of which no trace now exists.

The church, it appears, was founded by King Edward the elder, A.D. 930, and it subsequently attained a superior magnificence under the management of St. Ethelwold, who assisted King Edgar in build- ing it, and I think an attentive examination of the present church will lead to the conclusion that it is in great part the same edifice as that in which the latter monarch buried his eldest son, A.D. 971. It was shortly afterwards injured by the Danes in 992, and subsequently repaired in the reign of Edward the Confessor. The nave was enlarged towards the west at subsequent periods, particularly by Bishop De Blois (a prelate who appears to have been a second Gondulph), in the early part of the twelfth century ; since which, with the exception of the west end, little has been done except in the way of embellishment. The exterior walls of the aisles of the choir and the curious chapels attached to the transept, with the various sculptures and cat's-head moulding of the eastern part, I think there can be little doubt are relics of St. Ethelwold. And this idea is not at variance with the destruction of the church by the Danes ; they might have burned the roof, and have reduced the church, in appear- ance, to a heap of ruins, but having in our own days seen the walls of York Cathedral survive a similar accident, and remain strong enough to support a new roof, it requires no stretch of probability to infer that Romsey was equally capable of restoration after the Danish conflagration. The massive walls seem calculated to defy all common accidents ; they sustained uninjured a cannonade from Cromwell's artillery, and presuming that they are of the age assigned, it is matter of no surprise that they should survive the attack of a roving band of Danes, who, only bent on plunder and destruction, had neither time nor inclination to destroy so strong a building. And with respect to the subsequent alterations and additions, a practised eye can easily distinguish a species of circular architecture still of remote antiquity, but approaching more nearly to acknow- ledged specimens of Norman architecture than the parts which I conceive are vestiges of the original building.

24 Hampshire.

In the interior there are many curious specimens of Saxon archi- tecture, as well as that of a later period. In the apsis behind the altar are several columns with sculptural capitals, two of which are historical, ami record on scrolls the name of the architect " Robert me fecit."* This was a common Saxon practice, as may be seen by more than one undoubted Saxon inscription.

In this church is a singular evidence in favour of Dr. Milner's theory of the origin of the Pointed style being derived from the inter- section of circular arches. This is a window on the east side of the north transept, consisting of three pointed arches formed by the interlacing of circular ones, the pointed apertures thus formed being pierced and glazed. This window goes so far to establish Dr. Milner's theory that I am surprised it was not noticed by him ; it is evi- dently in its original state, and is less liable to the objection raised to the windows of St. Cross, of having been subsequently pierced. I should consider that this window is the workmanship of Bishop de Blois, the style of the ornaments corresponding with his known works.

That the Pointed style grew by degrees out of the Circular, or Saxon style, which preceded it, is a conclusion to which every ancient building seems to lead. The present church affords some striking examples in favour of this proposition, and amongst others the following.

Of the corbel table are various specimens, one of which, the oldest, shows only circular arches ; in another circular arches are intermixed with an angular formation approaching to a pointed arch, and in a third the circular and pointed arch are met with together.

This admixture would not have happened if the Pointed style had been imported in a perfect state from a foreign country; in that case, instead of the mixed architecture of Romsey, we should have wit- nessed the perfection and uniformity of Salisbury.

The high altar has been greatly improved of late. By the removal of the screen with the decalogue the noble pillars and arches forming the old apsis were laid open, and the voids are now glazed with stained glass. The altar screen was an ancient painting, partly- defaced and partly concealed with the decalogue. t

Besides this painting, the ancient piscina of the high altar was at the same time brought to light ; it resembles a font and is composed of a dwarf cylindrical column wiih an elegantly sculptured capital, highly enriched with leaves in the style of the end of the eleventh century.

The nave and choir have roofs of timber ; the latter is ceiled and

These capitals are described in the Arcl-ceologia, vols. xiv. and xv. t For an excellent description of this painting your readers are indebted to Dr. Latham, of Winchester. Vide vol. xcix., i art ii., p. 584.

.Excursion in 1828. 25

pointed with dragons and saints ; the former, being the badge of the Tudor family, marks the period of its erection.

The floor of various parts of the church is paved with tiles designed with various figures, among which the most remarkable are two knights tilting.

The sepulchral monuments of ancient date are not numerous. A lady in the costume of the thirteenth century has been recently dis- covered, and placed in the arch from which it has the appearance of having been removed.

ST. CROSS.

The church of this ancient foundation is deserving of the import- ance which Milner has assigned to it ; but I cannot help holding the opinion that Romsey Church presents a better object for architectural study than the present, and that for the reasons I have assigned in a previous part of this letter.

The church received soirie embellishments from the late master, Dr. Lockman, particularly the stained glass, which occupies the western window, which is ancient, and was obtained from the Con- tinent. Over the western entrance are the arms of the College in stained glass, which differ so entirely from an older painting of the same in the porter's lodge, that I cannot help pointing out the discrepancy to show the uncertainty of modern heraldry, which is commonly depicted according to the fancy of the artist (and an heraldic artist is generally little better than a coach-painter), and in utter contempt of the old-established rules of heraldry. The first- mentioned arms are : Argent, a cross patee concaved (I use this blazon for want of a better, it being a sort of fancy cross, formed in accordance to the modern notions of heraldry) between four other such crosses sable. In the old example the five crosses are potent, the tinctures being the same in both. The alteration in the form of the crosses must have arisen from a perfect spirit of innovation; the least knowledge of heraldry would have prevented the mistake. The cross potent, or cross of Jerusalem, was the peculiar and appropriate ensign for an hospital; the repetition of it 10 the number of five had reference to the wounds of our Saviour, and was adopted for the same reason as the five crosses were engraved on altar stones.

Wolvesey Castle is an interesting ruin ; it has been engraved and described in vol. xcix., part i., p. 105.

The parish churches in Winchester are not remarkable for their extent or architecture. St. Thomas's shows some specimens of the Pointed style, of equal curiosity with St. Cross; the arches are acutely pointed and ornamented with zig-zags, and rest on cylindrical columns with enriched capitals.

St. John's School and Chapel very much resembles Mr. Blore's new

26 Hampshire.

chapel at Battersea, which has been engraved in vol. xcviii., part ii.,

p. 105.

E. I. C.

P.S. I followed the common tradition in ascribing the sepulture of the Duke of Buckingham to St. Thomas's Church, Salisbury (May Mag., p. 408). The actual tomb of the Duke is at Britford, near Salisbury, as Sir R. C. Hoare, Bart, (through whose politeness I am enabled to make this correction) has recently ascertained.

A Peep into Hampshire.

[1791, Part l.,ff. 231, 232.]

After passing through Godalming, the traveller soon enters a heath, much resembling that of Bagshot ; but, having a well-wooded country on the left, and the valley on the right, is not less adorned. Be\ond this rise the hills that run from Guildford to Farnham. In this bottom, but on a gentle rise, is a handsome house of Lord Muidleton, in a beautiful park. Crooksbury Hill, crowned with a grove of firs, which is near Farnham, and just above Waverley Abbey, makes a conspicuous figure in the north-west. Beyond it is the Holt Forest.

The barrenness of this heath is, however, relieved not only by the woody country thus seen to the right and left, but by some inclosures which industry has made prolific in spite of its apparent sterility. A little rivulet crosses the road about three miles from Godalming, and here advantage has been token of it to make heads of water for an iron mill, and the borders are converted into meadows. Soon after a long lane leads between cultivated fields by a gradual ascent to Hindhead, a high hill seen from great distances, where the heath begins again, and continues for several miles in the road to Peters- field.

The road at first runs on the side of this hill, with a sharp descent into a valley on the left, where cornfields and wood are interspersed with much broken ground ; it afterwards shifts, and shows a truly Welsh dale on the right. The hill itself is heathy; in a deep bottom are a lew enclosures of pastures and green corn,* a few cottages, and then the hill ri*es again in the same barrenness as that over which we are passing. This spot of cultivation grows narrower and ends in a point when the hills, making a large, semicircular sweep, form what the sailors, in their road to Portsmouth, call the Devil's Punch- bowl.

Different parts of this hill afford a very extensive prospect to the east, over the wilds of Surrey and Sussex, with many striking objects.

This ride is more than a mile, when the little town of Haslemere

* The end of August.

A Peep into Hampshire. 27

is seen on the left, and before you appears Sussex, with the South- down hills running (perhaps) the whole length of the county.

Keeping to the right round the rim of the Punchbowl, Milland Chapel or Church makes a solitary appearance at the edge of the heath, at the corner of an enclosure, where a few ill-growing firs have been planted. Belo* it is Milland House, some time Sir Tnomas Ridge's, not seen from the road ; but an old pier of a gateway seems to point out the approach to it.

The village of Liphook forms a stage between the towns of Godalining and Petersfield. At Sheetbridge, on approaching Peters- field, the land begins to mend in its appearance.

At Petersfield, which has the misfortuue to send two members to Parliament, is a large house of Mr. Joliffe, the lord of the town. The situation is but an indifferent one, it being shut in on three sides by buildings. There is no trade here, and, except in time of war, the place is a piece of still life. The arch over the west door of the church is circular, with a zig-zag ornament. I did not see the inside.

About two miles farther is an old house of Lord Stawel's, called Mapeldurham, but only inhabited by a farmer. A row of yew-trees in the garden are remarkably large, kept shorn, and forming a covered walk. In this bottom the meadows look well, and there is good timber. Rising the hill, the barren heaths of Hindhead are ex- changed for the most beautiful turf, covered with flocks of sheep.

I turned off to the right to go to Hambledon, having a view of the sea and the Isle of Wight on the left, and on the right, in a cultivated valley terminated by a hill which crosses it, is the village of East Meon, whose large church, with a spire rising from the centre, forms a conspicuous object.

The valleys hereabouts, and about Hambledon, are far from rich ; they want those means which always enliven, and generally enrich, the land through which they run. I say generally, because in my route I shall show that they do not always do so. But what will not patient industry effect? The farmers get tolerable crops, except in dry summers, when their hills are parched, and their valleys can scarcely bear the want of rain.

Lord Hood has a house at Catterington. In one of the bottoms stands North House, once the residence of a Roman Catholic family, whose hiding-hole for the priest is still talked of, as well as the arms collected, and consultations held, when Jacobitism was a Roman Catholic tenet. Happily those apprehensions are now no more, and we can see a Roman Catholic fellow-subject without suspicion of seeing an enemy to our constitution.

Before I reached Hambledon, I crossed the famous cricket-ground called Broadhalfpenny, at the foot of which is a two mile course for horse matches. The inhabitants of this town have long been famous cricketers, and a club here is not afraid to challenge all England. This

28 Hampshire.

is a small town, but a very large parish, containing various tithings ; in and near the town are several neat houses. The Bishop of Winchester is Lord of the Manor of this and many other places hereabouts.

[1791, Part /., pp. 320, 321.]

In the valleys near Hambledon oaks grow plentifully, but I saw few large ones. Mr. Tucker has a tolerable house called [Denmead ?], which was the Hides', a branch of the Earl of Clarendon's family, and has passed to him by descent.

From Hambledon I crossed the forest of Bear to Southampton by a very bad road, and difficult to find. There was not much large timber to be seen, but the hills were ornamented with many hollies of great size. I do not know whether this is considered as part of the New Forest, or whether it is distinct from it. I passed near two gentlemen's houses before I came to Wickham, a remarkably neat and well-built village. Beyond this is* a house of the Rev. Mr. Eyre, about which there is some appearance of a park. The stunted trees in front of the house were in straight lines, filling the whole ground, and where they did not seem thick enough, some starved little ones are stuck in to fill up the vacancies. After passing a miserable heath, the scene is very agreeably changed to a fertile and beauiiful country. Descending through a little village, the road runs by the bank of a fine stream to South Stoneham, where are two good houses : the first was Mr. Dummer's, now is Mr. Dance's, who married his widow ; the other is Mr. Sloane's.

Approaching Southampton, the superb house of white stone, called Belvoir, strikes the eye. It is properly named, for it stands on a brow, at the foot of which is Southampton water, enlivened by numerous vessels continually passing, and the opposite shore beauti- fully clothed with wood. The house was built by General Carnac, has since been inhabited by Sir Thomas Rumbold, and was lately Mr. Delme's. It is, however, a great drawback on the beauty of this situation that the ebbing tide leaves a nasty muddy shore.

A little farther is the house which Mr. St. Andr£ lived in many years. His share in the story of the rabbit-woman will be long remembered.

The approach to Southampton is through a spacious, well-built street; at the end of it is the old gate, through which you pass into the principal street, wide and handsome. In this is a lately-built market-house, well stocked with provisions three times a week. The walls round the town are pretty entire, though in many places they are covered with buildings. The mount, on which is a round tower, commands a view of the water every way. The building, (".ailed the

* Some years ago.

Aldershot. 29

Polygon, is very handsome. The town is much frequented as a bathing-place, and though nothing can be more disgusting than the mud when the tide is out, the variety of the amusements, and the beauty of the adjacent country, bring together a crowd of visitors — add that the Duke of Gloucester sometimes honours the place with his presence. The market is supplied with fish from Torbay.

Lord Palmerston has built a handsome house near Romsey, with some good plantations, which reach up to the town. The river Test runs through his ground on its way from Andover to the sea, and in the town is crossed by an elegant stone bridge, which very agreeably terminates Lord Palmerston's grounds. This river is beautifully clear, and abounds with trout, but in its way from Stockbridge waters a long tract of the coarsest meadows I ever saw. The vale through which it runs is narrow, bounded on each side by hills. In this valley is Mottesfont, the seat of Sir John H»by Mill, a large, old house, formerly a priory. . In the miserable village of Kings Somborne all the houses, except one, were thatched ; the walls of most of them were of mud ; the sides of the stables of wattles without plaster.

The town of Stockbridge is a wide street, tolerably well built, with several branches of the clear trout stream. The fish are sent from hence to London in the season. An old man, living some years ago, remembered when there was no poor rate, and only one person in the place would accept any alms. The case is altered now. This is a borough ; the majority of the voters join together, like the Christian club which subsisted at Shoreham some years ago, and choose two members.

Aldershot.

[1865, Fart II., p. 2.]

I have recently been informed that not many months ago a weekly publication of known reputation ridiculed the spelling of Aldershot with a single t, and intimated that those who spelt it in this manner were ignorant people. To these remarks, I suppose, must be attri- buted the fact that the Times, which was wont to speak of this place as Aldershot, now invariably prints Aldershott. Aldershot, notwith- standing such disparaging observations, is the accepted spelling, and it is a mere piece of eccentricity to write it Aldershott. There was a time when the double i's were fashionable. Open a book of the early part of the seventeenth century, and a column might be filled with such words — thatt, abbott, writt, shott, profitts, sett, halt, dott, etc. This is the period when our critic's orthography (Aldershott) made its appearance ; but to assert that it is the proper spelling is going too far. I will now give your readers an opportunity of seeing how variously the name of this place has been spelt, which I jot down from a few notes I happen to have among my own papers :

Hampshire.

A.D. 1290, Alresrhute ; in an episcopal mandate, 1398, Aldershote ; in 1400. Alreschote; 1463, Alders-hote ; will dated April 14, 1511, " I, John Awbrey, gentilman, of Aldershot, in the county of Southampton ... to be burird in the church of St. Michael the Archangel, in Aldtrshot " — and it is several timts mentioned in this will, and always spelt "Aldershot"; 1517, Capella de Aldershot; 1520 and 1532, Aldershot; 1555 ami 1567, Aldershote; in the Manorial Court Books, Aldershot, in 1535 and 1582; in 1530, Aldtrrhhote ("Records of St. Cross Hospital ") ; 1610, Aldershot (Speed's map); 1645, Aldershot (Parish Register of Wickham, Hants); 1814, Aldershot (Manning and Bray's '• History of Surrey "); 1846, Aldershot (Dugdale's " Monasticon," last edition).

I am, etc., FRANCIS JOSEPH BAIGENT.

[" Aldershott " is a mere barbarism, like the " Dovor " which a local authority attempted to establish a few years ago.]

Alresford.

[1811, Part I., pp. 521-524.)

Annexed are views of three Hampshire churches — viz., New Alresford, Old Alresford, and Ovingion (see Plate II.), to accompany which I send the following notes, taken in 1807.

WILLIAM HAMPER.

NEW ALRESKORD.

The church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, consists of a nave, with north and south aisles, and a chancel. A tower at the west end contains six bells.* There is a slab in the chancel for Mrs. Jane Delme, September 2, 1739, aged 60.

On slabs in the nave :

1. " H. S. E. (pietate, benevolentia, morumque suavitate, inter ornalas orna- tisjirna !) Sarah, uxor Henrici Sealy. Obijt xiv Septembris MDCCXCIII. aetatis suae xxxi. Sub eodem tumulo juxta dilectam Conjugem posita; sunt Henrici Sealy (amicis maxime defieti) reliquiae. Obijt viii'vo die Aprilis, A. D. MPCCCV. xM. LXVII."

2. " In memory of the Rev. Richard Webb, Master of the Free-School in this Town, who died October 21, 1789, aged 42."

Slabs in the north aisle for Mary Eades, November 19, 1701, aged 24 ; and Anthony Gardener, March 17, 1702, aged 31. On mural monuments in ihe north aisle :

1. " To the memory of Richard Woolls, esq., of this Town, who died Nov. 15, 1789, aged 69 years."

2. " In expectatione die! supremi, prope jacet Johannes Lake. Natus j'5 [Sep- tembris] 6, 1691. Denalus 7's 21, 1759. Qualis erat dies isle indicabit."

* A new peal of eight bells, cast by Mr. Thos. Mears, of London, were adver- tised to be opened on March 25 inst.

Alresford. 3 1

On mural monuments in .south aisle :

1. " To the memory of John Barnard, esq., who died June 12, 1763, aged 58 years. And of Mary his wife, who died March 16, 1749, aged 38 years."

Arms : Argent, a brar rampant sablr, impaling, gutte de sang, a lion rampant gules. Crest, a detui-bear erect sable.

2. " To the memory of Elizabeth Harris, daught?r of Wm. and Jenny Harris of New-place near this Town, who died the 2Oth of April, 1798, in the iyth year of her age. [Inscription omitted].

" Also to the memory of Four Sons of the above-named William and Jenny Harris; viz. William, who died 251)1 of June, 1773, aged two years; Ward, an infant ; Philip, died I7th of Feb., 1781, aged seven years ; and John, died 28th of Feb., 1789, aged 10 years."

3. " Near this place lie interred ihe remains of Ann Boyes, the wife of Robert Boyes, of this Town ; whose amiable conduct and steady perseverance in the uniform and faithful discharge of every religious, domestic, and social duty, made her still the more beloved the more she was known ; and her death a loss the most afflicting to those who had the greatest experience of her endearing virtues. Having undergone a long and tedious illness with exemplary patience and Christian fortitude, and enjoyed the foretaste of approaching bliss in the contem- plation of a well-spent life, she calmly resigned her soul to God, April 4, 1762, aged 44. Learn, Reader ! Bless her memory, and follow her example."

On the walls of the church, which are of flint and plaster, are several dates: On the chancel, 1767 ; on the north aisle, 1766; on the south aisle, 1760; and on the tower, 1699. A very ancient crucifix of stone is worked into the west side of the tower.

An altar-tomb in the churchyard bears the following inscription (in capitals) :

" Ici est le corps de Monsieur le Comte de Jourville, Capitaine des Vaisseaux de son Majeste tres Chretienne, Chevalier de 1'Ordre Militaire de Saint Louis, mort a la ville d'Alresford, dans la trente septieme annee de son age, le neuf Uctobre, mil sept cents cinquante-huit."

The register says, "A French prisoner buried, October 7, 1758." From a paper pinned in the register I transcribed an account of "Accidents which have happened in this Town by fire since about the year 1620. About the year aforesaid a fire happened at the Swan, which by report burnt down great part of the West Street. On the first of May, in the year 1678, a fire happened in the WestStreet again, which burnt down to the ground three houses and back buildings. And again, on the first May, in the year 1689, about nine o'clock in the morning, a fire broke out in the Soke ; the season dry, and the N.E. wind blowing very hard, the same in about three hours burnt down and consumed to the ground the dwelling-houses of 117 families, with the Church and Market-house ; the damage, by the oaths of the sufferers, amounted to the sum of ^24,500 and upwards. And on the 3oth of April, in the year 1736, a fire broke out in the West Street between nine and ten in the morning, which burnt the dwelling-houses of thirty families, with all the out-houses, barns, and

32 Hampshire.

stables, to the num'ier of eighty-six piles of buildings. Damage ^5,000 and upwards, besides insurances."

Inscription over the door of the free school :

"ScHOLA Ex Fundatione HENRICI PERIN, Armig. Num'is ab eo legalis Extructa. A. D. 1698."

In the school there is a portrait of the founder, who was buried in Old Alresford churchyard. His epitaph is given below.

The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an unostentatious brick edifice, of a single pace and chancel. The date of its erection is perpetuated by the following inscription on the west side of the

tower :

" This Church was rebuilt, A.D. 1753. The Tower, A.D. 1769. The Bells cast, A D. 1770. John Hoadly, LL.D., Rector. James Rodney, esq., and/ Church- Mr. Henry Bullpett, (, wardens."

Within, on the north wall of the nav:, is a superb mural monument of white and coloured marble, containing (under a pediment sup- porting a shield of arms and two urns) a bust of the deceased, with full-sized emblematic figures of Faith and Hope. A sarcophagus bears this inscription :

" Near this place lie deposited the remains of Mrs. Jane Rodney, daughter of the Hon. Charles Compton, and wife of George Bridges Rodney, esq , who was an honour to her family, and the delight of all that knew her. She died Jan. 29, 1757, aged 27, and left behind her three children in their infancy "

Arms : Or, three eagles displayed purpure, two and one ; impaling, sable, a lion passant gardant, between three helmets argent. On mural monuments against the south wall of the nave :

1. " In memory of Christopher Perin, gent., who departed this life, Nov. 27, 1705, aged 74. And also of Sarah, the wife of Christopher Perin, who departed this life, Miy 30, 1726, in the 83th year of her age. Interred in the vault near this place."

Arms : Gules, three crescents argent ; impaling ... a cross chequy between four pellets.

2. " In memory of Jane, the wife of Reginald Edwards, and daughter of Chris- topher Perin, gent., who died July 19, 1728, aged 62. And also of Christopher Perin Edwards, son of the said Reginald and Jane Edwards, who died Aug. 16, 1720, aged 23 "

Arms : A lion rampant regardant ; on a canton an eagle displayed ; impaling three crescents, with a fourth for difference. Crest, a lion's head erased.

On the north wall of the chancel a plain oval tablet (having at the bottom, in excellent sculpture, a dog holding a bunch of keys, as emblems of a faithful housekeeper) is inscribed :

"This small but sincere memorial of his good friend and faithful Servant, Mrs. Anne Davenport, spinster, was erected by Dr. John Hoadly, Rector of this Parish. She was the youngest daughter of the Rev. Mr. Basil Davenport, Vicar

Alresfard. 33

of Broad Hinton in Wiltshire. Born July 24. 1705; died May 23, 1760; and was buried in the Church-yard near the Soutti-east corner of this Chancel."

On the south wall of the chancel :

" H. S. E. Margareta, Johannis Needham Westmonast. armigeri, Filia. Gulielmi Needham, S. T. B. hujus Eccl'iae Rectoris Conjux. Utriq. suisq. omnibus longe meritoq. dileclissima. Obijt 24 Octob. Anno Dom. 1693, astat. 24."

Arms : Argent, a bend engrailed azure, between two bucks' heads, cabossed sable.

On a slab in the churchyard (in capitals) :

"M. S. H. S. E. Henricus Perin armig'. Henrici itidem arm'ri filius natu maximus, arte medendi clarus apud suos & felix, munificentia certe apud Posteros immortalis, Alresfordiensis nimirum Schola; Fundator. Obijt lo'mo Maij, A. D. 1697, act. suae 71."

Arms : Three crescents. Crest, a crescent. On other tombs in the churchyard :

1. "Here lieth interred the body of Henry Perin, esq., who lived in the fear

of God, and soe dyed the day of March, Anno Dom. 1672, in the 75 yeare

of his age." (Arms, as last. )

2. " Elizabeth Perin." (All but the name obliterated.)

3. " Here lieth Christopher Penn, late of Waiehouse, second son and heir of Henry Perin, sen., sometime of the same place in this Parish, esq. And of his second wife Sarah, daughter of Matthew Cruchfield, late citizen of London. By her he had two sons, Henry and Christopher, and six daughters, three of which only survived him. He lived beloved by his friends, and honoured by his wife and children. An indulgent husband, a tender father, and a pious Christian. 1 le died Nov. 27, A.D. 1705, setat. 74."

Arms : Same as on the monument in the church.

4. " In memory of Reginald Edwards, late Citizen of London, who married Jane, daughter of Christopher Perin, gent., by whom he had issue one son and one daughter, Christopher Perin Edwards, and Sarah Edwards. He departed

this life the 3Oth day of July, Anno Dom. 1701, aged years. — And also here-

under lieth the body of Christopher Perin Edwards, only son of the said R. E., who died July II, 1720, in the twenty-second year of his age."

Arms : Same as on the monument in the church.

5. " In memory of Dorothy, late wife of Thomas Bonham, gent., and daughter of Henry Perin, M.D., who died the 9th of June. 1744, aged 55. And also of Thomas Bonham, son of the said Thomas and Dorothy, who died the 2Oth of July, 1745, aged 29 years."

Arms : Gules, a chevron between three cross crosslets fitchie. On an escutcheon of pretence, three crescents.

6. " H. S. E. Gulielmus Needham, S. T. B. hujus Ecclesire per quadrapinta prope annos Rector indignus. Natus 2'do Februarii, A.D. MDCLV. Obijt 22'do Junij, A.D. MDCCXXVII. Spe Resurgendi.

" H. S. E. Catharina, ejusdem Guli"1' uxor, quas obijt 27'o Augusti, A.D. 1731, aetatis suae 8 1.

" The poor, the world, the heavens and the grave, Her alms, her praise, her soul, and body have."

The Rev. Mr. North, son of the Bishop of Winchester, is the VOL. xvn.

34 Hampshire.

present Rector of Old Alresford, with Meidsted and New Alresford annexed.

Ovington.

The church consists of a nave and chancel, the latter only eleven feet, by ten feet within. At the west end is a wooden turret with four bells. On the left hand of the west door is a recess for holy water, and on the north side of the nave within, a low arch in the wall, nearly hid by pews, but no monument to be perceived under it. The font is ancient and capacious : a square basin, on an octagonal shaft, with a spreading base.

A mural monument in the chancel :

" In memory of the Rev. Mr. Barrett, forty-nine years Rector of this Parish ; and Elizabeth his wife. He died July 8, 1744, aged 74 years. She died March 17, 1730, in her 6oth year. ' Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord.' — This monument was erected by their youngest daughter, Mrs. Elizabeth Mathews, of London."

There are also mural monuments in the nave for the following persons :

"William Valden, esq., Recorder of the City of Winchester, Aug. 21, 1771, aged 53."

" Mr. James Yalden, who died at Tichborne, June 27, 1776, aged 67."

"Thomas Armstrong, esq , Jan. 22, 1791, aged 70, and Sarah his wife, Sept. 28, 1782, aged 56."

" John Knight, son of George and Ann Knight, of this Parish, Dec. 8., 1803, aged seven."

The Rev. Mr. Richards held the living in 1807. Andover.

[1831, Part I., p. 211.]

With this I send you a drawing (Fig. 9) of a silver ring, which has lately fallen under my inspection. It is in the possession of Dr. Littlehales of this place, and was found at Denebury Hill, near Andover.

My own observations lead me to think that it originally belonged to the Douglas family, from the representation of a heart crowned above and winged on the sides ; yet in the usual figures of the heart so crowned, the wings are pointed upwards. This change, however, might have taken place to accommodate the ring by not taking up so much room. At the back of the ring are two hands united, and issuing from a rose on each side ; and from which we may be led to think there may be allusion to the union of the two houses of York and Lancaster. The ring is of very rude workmanship, especially where the two ends are united within.

The opinion of your correspondents on the above will oblige

Yours, etc., JOHN LATHAM.

Andover. 35

[1844, Part II., p. 305.]

The ancient church of St. Mary (some portion of which was of Anglo-Norman date) having become so dilapidated as to render further repair almost impracticable, a venerable clergyman (Dr. Goddard), connected with the town only by residence, has erected at his own expense a church nearly on the same site, commensurate with the population of the place. The body of the sacred edifice is now complete, and consists of a nave, aisles, and transept, the whole of exceedingly lofty and graceful proportions, and presenting a splendid example of the Early English style. The windows of the chancel are filled with coloured glass. The edifice is built of Caen stone and flint ; the interior finished in a most chaste and beautiful manner — no gallery excrescences appearing to disturb the harmony of the slender shafts and pointed windows. It will accommodate about one thousand persons. No part of the tower is yet erected, but it will be constructed on the site of the remaining portion of the old church.

Basing and Herriard.

[1787, Part II., pp. 1056-1058.]

I have visited Basing Castle and Church, and from the latter have taken the following memorials, principally heraldical. It stands at a small distance eastward of the castle, and was probably built, or certainly very materially repaired and beautified, by the first Marquis of Winchester, during that part of his various life at which Popery prevailed ; for at the west end, in a niche very high, is a figure which seemed to me that of the Virgin Mary. That this figure and the other external ornaments of the church should survive, as they have done, the devastation of the neighbouring siege, can only be accounted for by the fierceness with which the besiegers pursued the ruin of the castles, which so occupied their minds as to render them inatten- tive to everything else. Under the niche is a shield containing the following arms :

Quarterly of 8,

1. Poynings. Barry of six or and vert, a bend gules.

2. Gules, 2 lions passant guardant arg. Delamare.

3. Gules, 3 water bougets, arg. Roos.

4. Barry of six gules and ermine. Hussey.

5. Arg. 6 martlets gules.

6. Az. a fesse between 3 fleurs-de-lis. Arg.

7. Fretty, ... a canton . . .

8. Arg. on a chief gules, 2 mullets or. St. John.

Over all, in an escutcheon of pretence,

Powlett, Sable, 3 swords in pile, their points towards the base, arg. pommels and hilts, or.

Hampshire.

This mode of marshalling seems a little unusual in heraldry. Where a maternal descent is particularly honourable, it is usual, if the ancestress was an heiress, to put her coat first ; but then the paternal coat is placed among the other quarterings. Here, though the paternal coat is not allowed the first place, it is given a more distinguished place than the other quarterings, by being placed in a scutcheon of pretence.

The church is large, and the external appearance is handsome. The inside is divided into three aisles. The north and south aisles of the chancel are divided from the middle by two open arched tombs on each side, having each an arched doorway between them. The upper tomb, on the south side, is indisputably meant for the first Marquis himself, though there is no inscription remaining, if there ever was one ; but this appears from the arms. . . . The lower tomb on the south side has the same arms, and might be intended for the Marchioness his wife. The upper monument on the north side, I have no doubt, by the arms, was for John Paulet, Esq., who married Eleanor, daughter and coheiress of Robert Roos, Esq., of Gedney, co. Lincoln, and was grandfather to the first Marquis. In the wall over the arch is this: "Qui obierunt .... Septembris Anno DMI. 1488." There were remains of a continuation of the inscription on the other side, but to me illegible. The lower monument on the north side was evidently, by the arms, intended for the father of the fiist Marquis, Sir William Paulet, K.B., who married his cousin, Alice, daughter of Sir William Paulet, of Hinton St. George, co. Somerset, and Bere, co. Southampton. . . . Round the inside of the church arc the same arms, in various combinations. In the south aisle remain, tolerably perfect, nineteen out of about fifty banners ; the staffs only remaining of the rest. These were probably placed there in 1754, upon the funeral of the third Duke. Whether he was buried here, I know not. There are no other monuments than those I have given an account of. The different banners seem to consist of the impalements of the arms of all the different wives since the family settled at Basing. But I will not tire you with a repetition of what remain, though I took a note of them. . . .

Herriard.

I shall mention this place here, as it was possessed by the Paulet family. This parish lies about three miles south-east of Basingstoke. Richard Paulet, third brother of the first Marquis of Winton, was, as I mentioned, seated here, in right of his wife, daughter and heir of Peter Cowdrey of this place. From him descended John Powlett, whose third son, Richard, was grandfather of Sir Richard Powlett of this place, who left two daughters his coheirs, Louisa, daughter of Sir Thomas Jervois, of Chilmarsh, co. Salop, and Anne, wife of John Jervoise, Esq., who in her right had Herriard. In descendants of

Herriard. 3 7

this name it still remains. The late possessor built a large house here ; the inside of which, I understand, he never finished. It stands upon a considerable eminence, and has fine views about it, the country round being, in my opinion, well wooded and exceedingly beautiful. The present possessor, who is collateral to the last, having estates elsewhere, resides here very little. Beneath the hill, nearer Basingstoke, lies Wynslade. In this parish stands great part at least of Hackwood Park, and probably the house. The patronage of the living is in the Duke of Bolton. Dr. Joseph Warton had this living, and resided here all the earlier part of his life ; and here probably he composed the greater part of his " Essay on the Genius and Writings of Pope." This, too, was the scene of that beautiful little poern of the present Laureate, which stands the first of his sonnets in the modern editions of his "Poems." It describes the style of the country hereabouts with exquisite precision, as well as beauty.

Basingstoke.

[1787, Part II., pp. 1152, 1153.]

" Basingstoke," says Camden, " has a well-frequented market, and a very neat chapel, dedicated to the Holy Ghost, built by William, the first Lord Sandes of the Vine." The editor of the Magna Britannia adds that " it is governed by a mayor, recorder, seven aldermen, seven burgesses, etc., and has a great marktt on Wednesday weekly for corn, especially barley, because its inhabitants are many of them maltsters, of whom it is said that here is one of the richest of that trade in England." This business is at present very much declined indeed. The person meant as the richest maltster in England was, no doubt, Mr. William Blunden, whose sole daughter and heir, Elizabeth, married, first, Sir Charles Gunter Nickhol, K.B., and second, Peregrine, third -Duke of Ancaster, May 22, 1735, but died without issue by the latter, December, 1743. By the former she had issue Frances-Catharine, an only child, married January n, 1755, to the present Earl of Dartmouth, who, in right of her, has considerable estates in and about the town.

The chapel above-mentioned is now a melancholy ruin, being destroyed by Oliver's rabble at the time of the siege of Basing, I suppose. It is said to have been exceedingly beautiful. It stands upon an eminence to the north that overlooks the town. " Upon the roof of it," says Camden, " the history of the prophets, apostles, and disciples of Christ is very artificially described." The outside was of freestone, curiously ornamented. Lord Sandes, with Fox, Bishop of Winchester, obtained a license from Henry VIII. not only to found a free chapel, but also to establish a guild here, by the name of " The Brotherhood or Guild of the Holy Ghost." This body is to consist of an indeterminate number of members, and that of either

38 Hampshire.

men or women ; and the aldermen or wardens for the time being have power to admit as many persons of either sex as they think proper. To this brotherhood Lord Sandes gave an estate, consisting of 105 acres of land, and two houses, for the maintenance of a priest to perform divine service in the chapel, and therein also to instruct youths in literature. This fraternity escaped the Reformation, but was dissolved by the operation of a statute, i Edw. VI. ; was re- established by Queen Mary by letters-patent, 1556, at the petition of the inhabitants, and remained untouched till the Civil Wars, when the all-devouring rapacity of Oliver once more dissolved it, and seized the estate ; but by the interest of Bishop Morley in 1670, it was again restored. To this fraternity there have been other benefactors. Sir James Deane, Knt., who died about 1608, bequeathed £10 per annum to the preacher, and the same to the schoolmaster ; and Sir James Lancaster, Knt., bequeathed an annuity of £20 per annum to each of the above-named persons. This benefice is in the presenta- tion of the Lord Chancellor.

This chapel was the burial-place of the family of the founder, Lord Sandes. He himself was buried there in 1542 (34 Hen. VIII.); and I have no doubt, from the hollow sound of the ground within the walls upon treading it, and from the holes where the covering seems to have given way, that there is a vault yet remaining there. Tomb- stones with inscriptions there undoubtedly are beneath the deep covering of grass and ruins ; for some I have seen drawn from the overwhelming rubbish, and broken, but still legible, inscriptions of Knighis of the Garter scattered about the burying-ground. Others there are which curiosity has half raised, and left, standing edgeways ; but they are too much overgrown to be read in their present state. I only saw them one evening, when the dusk was coming on, and never beheld a more melancholy picture of the vanity of human honours. One tomb I observed very entire for one of the family of Cusaude, who had also a vault in this chapel. This was not only a very ancient, but very honourable family, intermarrying with some of the highest houses in the kingdom, as I have seen in a most splendid pedigree of them, of which I hope some day to procure a copy. Their mansion- house went by their own name, and lay somewhere between the Vine and Basing. On the tomb I have mentioned was the Cusaude arms, viz., Barry of 8 (or 10, ?), argent and gules, a canton of the last, on a scutcheon of pretence ; a chevron within a bordure engrailed — possibly Stafford, of Hook ; but I mean to transcribe the inscription some day, which I had neither time nor light to do when I was there. This family, I believe, has been extinct ever since the middle of the last century. The estate now belongs to Thomas Lobbe Chute, Esq. (the possessor of the Vine), who purchased it some years since.

The church of Basingstoke stands low, and seems at the utmost no older than Henry VIII. 's time ; probably it is of Queen Elizabeth's

Basingstoke. 39

reign. In the inside are painted upon the walls the arms of the Powletts, of the first Lord Sandes, of Birhop Wainfleet, of Sir James Deane, of Sir James Lancaster, and of William Blunden, Esq.

There is a handsome town-hall, under which is the market. Upon this building are the arms of the Duke of Bolton, viz. : i. Powlett ; 2. Delamere ; 3. Poynings ; 4. The fesse between the three fleurs-de- lis ; 5. A fret on a canton, two mullets ; 6. Roos.

[1809, Part I., pp. 32,33.]

The venerable elm-tree, near Deane's alms-houses, at Basingstoke, which had long, by its magnitude and antiquity, attracted the notice of strangers, has lately been cut down. It measured 21 feet in the girth, in the thickest part near the root, and 14 feet at four feet from the ground. The trunk was much decayed, and a considerable part of it reduced to almost a shell ; but upwards in the branches the tree seemed to be in full vigour of vegetation. As it was considered dangerous to the neighbouring houses, it was sold by public sale for £6 ; which, after it was cut down, was thought too much, as the greatest portion of it was fit only for fuel.

This tree stood at the junction of three roads, and it seems to have been a custom with our ancestors to plant elms in such situa- tions, many instances of which may still be met with. For what reason this was done does not readily appear. Perhaps they were planted as memorials of some public important events ; as it has been said, this tree was planted in the year of the Revolution ; and by some, on the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot, or possibly at the Revolution.

In the sacred history we find, that on the occasion of Abraham's covenant with Abimelech, the patriarch " planted a grove," or tree, as the Hebrew word is rendered in the margin, and in other passages, "and called there upon the name of the Lord" (Gen. xx'- 33) > agreeably, no doubt, to the institutes of the patriarchal religion. This practice was afterwards abused to superstition and idolatry ; for which reason groves or green trees were commanded to be cut down (Deut. xii. 2; xvi. 21). The ancient idolaters used to "burn incense upon the hills, under oaks, and poplars, and elms ; because the shadow thereof was good" (Hos. iv. 13). In Greece we meet, in very early times, with the famous oracle of Jupiter at the oaks of Dodona. Among the Greeks and Romans the oak was sacred to Jupiter, even to a proverb. The heathen goddess Diana was called Trivia; as Varro thinks, because her image was erected by the Greeks in triviis — in places where three roads met. And it appears that the country people used, on certain days, to sing some mournful ditty at the junction of three roads (per trivia) in honour of Diana or Proser- pine, in imitation of Ceres searching for her when she had been snatched away by Pluto, with a mournful noise along the roads, or where three roads met. ,

40 Hampshire.

It is a remarkable circumstance, that the ceremony of tracing the boundaries of the parish of Basingstoke commences from the very place where the great elm-tree stood with an act of religious worship, a psalm being bung by the parish clerk and others assembled on the occasion. This is a relic of the ancient Popish processions in the perambulation of parishes, and which originally might be derived from the heathen custom. . . .

Your insertion of the above remarks, Mr. Urban, may perhaps induce some correspondent to give your readers a more satisfactory reason for elms being so frequently met with at the junction of public roads, and will oblige

J- J-

[I778,/. 172.]

A canal from Basingstoke was first proposed in the year 1772, and a petition was then presented to Parliament, but not to communicate with the river Wey near Weybridge (as represented by the plan referred to), but to communicate with a canal that was then proposed to be made from Reading to Monkey Island, near Maidenhead [see a plan and an account of that canal in February Magazine, 1772], by the Corporation of Reading, and from thence to be continued by the Corporation of the City of London to the river Thames at Isleworth ; but through the opposition of the landowners and other landed gentlemen who had not discernment enough to see their own interest, the whole scheme was frustrated.

But this present scheme meets with a more favourable reception from the landowners ; for out of the great number of different pro- perties this canal in a course of forty-three miles must go through, there are but two dissenting voices.

This canal promises very fair to be of great public utility by furnish- ing an easy conveyance to vast quantities of timber to the London market and to the public dockyards, which at this time lies useless in the country for want of such conveyance.

[1862, Part II., p. 658.]

The following extracts from documents in the Public Record Office relate to the Holy Ghost Chapel, the ruins of which form a cause for inquiry with all intelligent travellers on the South- Western Railway. They tell the story of the little chapel, which the inhabitants would have done well to have restored for their new cemetery. Sir W. Sands, of the Vine, Hants, was raised to the peerage by the title of Lord Sands, 15 Hen. VIII., and died 1542 (Brydges' Collins' " Peerage," ix. 418). Dugdale gives the date of his creation April 27, 1523, but there is no patent on record (" Hist. Peerage of England," 420). The'bishop was Richard Fox, 1500-1528 :

" The brotherhood of the Chapel of the Holy Ghost, Basingstoke, founded of the devotion of the inhabitants at the beginning there to

Basingstoke. 4 1

find a priest, and sithence employed to the intent to find a school- master to teach children grammar, which hath been so continually kept this 10 years last past unto this day, whereunto belong lands and tenements in Basingstoke to the yearly value of £,d 145., whereof resolut. 155. 4d. et rem. ^5 173. 8d., which is yearly paid to the said schoolmaster. Ornaments and plate belonging to the same brother- hood delivered by inventory indented by the Commissioners to the Churchwardens of the said brotherhood valued at 283. then. The said Chapel of the Holy Ghost and the yard environing the same is the common burying place for all the said parish, and the vicar there findeth a curate, and the same vicarage is of the value of £26 as. gd. Houseling people there 804." — Certifir. of Chantries, 2 Edw. VI., Hi. " The Chantry of the Holy Ghost.— The late Bishop of Winchester and the lord Sands, by the licence of the King's Majesty, which now is under the great seal of England, to have one alderman, two wardens, and certain brothers, and one priest, which priest hath no perpetuity, but removeable at the will and pleasure of the said alderman and wardens ; and for that cause the said priest is discharged of paying tenths, by judgment of the Exchequer, as appeareth by the exemplifi- cation thereof dated the 35 year of the King's Majesty's reign that now is. The said guild is erected and situated within the said parish church of Basingstoke, the value of the said chapel by year is ^6 145. whereof for rents resolut. i5s. 4d., for the priest 1175. 8d. There is one free chapel called Easthrope within the parish of Basingstoke, obtained and dissolved sith the 4 Feb., in the 37th of the King's Majesty's reign, by Mr. John Leffe, Clerk, Doctor, etc." — MSS., Court of Augment., li. 19.

I am, etc., MACKENZIE E. C. WALCOTT, M.A., F.S.A.

[1864, Pan /.,/. 138.]

The ruins of this chapel are quite familiar to travellers on the South-Western Railway ; but it is not generally known that it was occupied so recently as 1743, for in that year the " Rev. Mr. Samuel Deggon was presented to the place of Presbyter in the chapel of the Holy Ghost, near Basingstoke." — Gentleman's Magazine, xiii., p. 444. I am, etc., MACKENZIE E. C. WALCOTT, M.A., F.S.A.

[1864, Part L, p. 363.]

Mr. Walcott can scarcely infer from the fact of a " presbyter " being appointed to the Holy Ghost Chapel at Basingstoke, that at that time (1743) the chapel was "occupied." He will remember that, in our undergraduate days at Oxford, Tubney Church (which had not then been rebuilt by Magdalen College), though entirely destroyed, save one stone left in situ, had its rectors regularly inducted, the rector being placed on the " Church Stone," as it was called. The like ceremonial was also observed at Blackborough, Devon ;

42 Hampshire.

though the church there has been rebuilt by the liberality of the patron. So it by no means follows that a church or chapel is " occupied " because a presbyter is presented, and even instituted into the benefice. To this day the shamefully desecrated, but little known, parish church of Elden, Hants, has its regularly-appointed rectors, though it is used as a cowshed. The late rector com- pounded with his chief parishioner by making him a present of a volume of sermons !

I am rather interested in the history of the demolition of the Holy Ghost Chapel. The following may tend to elucidate it.

Gilbert White, of Selborne, was at the Grammar School at Basing- stoke. He writes in his " History of Selborne" (finished in 1787): " When a schoolboy, more than fifty years ago (say fifty three), he was a party concerned in the undermining a portion of that fine old ruin» — the Holy Ghost Chapel — "which portion fell that same night, to the great alarm of the neighbours." This must have been about 1735, eight or ten >ears before Mr. Deggon's presentation. Now a building could scarcely be " occupied '' under such circumstances.

I have heard it stated on pretty good authority that the Mill family, to whom the Holy Gho=t Chapel belonged, about a hundred years ago refused to lay out ^40 on the repairs of its roof. I have tried to verify this report, but have not been successful as yet. Perhaps I may do so by next month. But we must give this hundred years a large margin ; for even schoolboys would scarcely venture to under- mine a building whose roof could be made good for so small a sum as ^40. However, by working out these two statements, we may give a tolerable guess at the date as well as the cause of the ruination of this beautiful building.

What a scandal it was that on the construction of a cemetery at Basingstoke this building was not repaired and used as a cemetery chapel ! But it may still outlive its pretentious, parti-coloured neighbours, which I am glad to see are fast becoming ruinated.

I am, etc., WILLIAM GREY.

Beaulieu.

[1796, Part I., p. 290.]

In the inside of the ancient refectory, now the parish church of Beaulieu, at an elevation of about twelve leet from the ground on the west side, stands a pulpit, thus described in a MS. of 1648, in the " Harleian Collection," No. 892.*

"The ancient and fayre parish churche of Bello Loco Regis al's Bewley, in the county of Southampton, being destroyed with the abbey wherein it stood, at the South side of the said old churche's foundations stands the new parish church, Southe and Northe,

* See also Mr. Grote's account under his view of the ruins, and Camden's " Britannia," new edition, i. 132.

Beaulieu. 43

having been the abbot's dyning hall. On the West side of the same is an ancient pulpett, which stands in the wall leading upp to it, which was the place wherein the abbott's bible clarke did exercise his function, and is situate over against the newe pulpett and reading place, but higher upp."

A flight of stone steps, with a roof curiously arched and ribbed, and enlightened by several Gothic apertures, forms the ascent to this pulpit, wherein the reader gave a portion of divinity to the monks that were seated below at dinner ; a custom which exists to this day at Queen's College, Oxford, when a portion of the Greek Testament is daily read during the hour of dinner.

That the pulpit above described was appropriated to this purpose may be inferred from the following injunction, inserted in the Bene- dictine Regulations, " Mon. Aug.," torn, ii., p. 951 :

"Lector refactorii post capitulum libros portal in refectorium. Lector stet ad librum versa facie ad orientem. Inclinante conventu ad gloria patri, et ad pater noster, inclinat et ipse, versa facie ad con- ventum, hie debet autem sedere, dum sedet ille qui praeest con- ventui. Historiam leget rotundius ; sermones et omilias attractius.

Yours, etc., E. RUDGE.

[1796, Part I., p. 470.]

The Harleian MS. (see p. 290), giving an account of the ancient refectory of Beaulieu Abbey, is not exempt from inaccuracies in con- sequence of its being a century and a half old. The said refectory, into which the ancient tombstones have been removed and irregu- larly disposed in every possible direction, does not " stand South and North," nor indeed pointing to any of the cardinal points of the compass. It is also a mistake in this ancient writer, whoever he was, to describe the curious pulpit with the plate of which you have en- riched your Miscellany, as appropriated to "the function of the abbot's bible clarke." This expression intimates that the office of reader in the refectories of our ancient abbeys distinctively belonged to some one person, and that there existed such a post as that of the abbot's bible clerk ; whereas it is a certain and well-known fact that the monks in general, as many as were qualified for the same, were appointed to discharge this duty by turns, each one for the space of a week. Independently of other arguments, this is proved by the rule of St. Benedict ; the same which was observed at Beaulieu and in every other Cistercian abbey. See cap. 38, " De hebdomadario Lecture." "Mensis fratrum edentium lectio deesse non debet; nee fortuito casu, qui arripuerit codicem legere audeat ibi ; sed lecturus tola hebdomada, Domimca ingrediatur," etc. JOHN MILNER.

[1820, Part 11., pp. 489, 490.]

The annexed plate represents a north view of the refectory of Beaulieu Abbey in Hampshire, and the triple arches at the west end

44 Hampshire.

of the chapter - house, taken from the once cloistered quadrangle (see Plate I.). When the destruction of this abbey took place, the refectory, or dining-hall, was converted into a church for the use of the villagers. The refectory, therefore, remains the most perfect portion of all the buildings which composed this formerly extensive and beautiful abbey, which was founded by King John for monks of the Cistercian Order, A.D. 1204.

The cloisters were joined to the south side of the nave of the church. On the western side of the quadrangle was placed the dormitory, which was a building of considerable length, and stood over a spacious cellar or vault, of which some portions are now re- maining, and are converted into workshops, etc. On the opposite or eastern side of the cloisters was placed the chapter-house, on the south side of which are the remains of a passage, and on the opposite or northern side the lavatory. On the southern side of the quad- rangle is the refectory. The exterior of this building is plain, and almost wholly obscured with ivy, large and impervious masses of which are suffered to grow on all the surrounding dilapidated walls.

At the south end of the refectory are triple lancet windows, and at the north end two windows, having under them a large and hand- somely-shaped pointed doorway, resting on double columns at the sides ; the iron hinges of the wooden doors are richly and curiously ornamented. On the left side of this doorway is a fragment of a pointed arch covering a deep recess, the former use of which is not now precisely known. On the point of the gable, at the north end of the refectory, is a wooden bell turret, and over the southern point a stone cross.

A small portion of the interior of the refectory is separated from the rest of the room by a wooden fence ; this space forms the porch of the church, and is made a receptacle for rubbish of every descrip- tion. The narrow lancet windows lighting this magnificent apart- ment are on the interior covered with spacious pointed arches ; those now over the altar are very handsome, and rest on single slender columns. In each side wall are two corresponding windows ; but the west side of the room is principally occupied by the pulpit and its staircase, the latter being constructed within the thickness of the wall ; it receives light through several small windows, and the stair- case is opened towards the room by means of an arcade of six very elegant pointed arches, resting on clusters of slender columns ; at the extremity of these arches is the door of the passage, the roof of which is arched with stone. The pulpit is attached to the wall, before a spacious, pointed arch, the window at the back of which consists of two trefoil, arched compartments, surmounted with a quatrefoil per- foration. This pulpit is, perhaps, the most perfect and elegant now re- maining in England,* excepting the one that formerly belonged to the

* A slight sketch of this pulpit is given in vol. Ixvi., pp. 289, 470.— EDIT.

Beaulieu. 45

refectory of the abbey at Shrewsbury,* and which is now exposed in a garden on the south side of the church. The pulpit at Beaulieu is of a semi-octagonal bracket-shape, having at every angle a torus, or round moulding, terminating with a capital, and containing in every face rich and elegant patterns of sculptured foliage. The upper half of the pulpit, although very ancient, must certainly be allowed to be of subsequent date to the base. Its various ornaments do not accord with the elegant simplicity of the style of architecture that prevailed in the early part of the thirteenth century. At every angle of the upper part of the pulpit is a small panelled buttress, and in every face two trefoil arches resting on slender pillars ; below the arches is a row of quatrefoils, and over the arches a high sloping parapet, which is constructed of wood, and terminates with a double row of small battlements.

The roof of the refectory is arched and ribbed with timber, and ornamented with bosses, the sculptures of which are very curious, and remain in good preservation.

In the pavement are several ancient gravestones that formerly con- tained large and elegantly-ornamented plates of brass. The altar is raised on two steps. In the east wall is a monument of rude design and execution : it contains a recumbent effigy of a female, and an inscription to the memory of Mary, the daughter of Thomas Elliot, Gent. She died on June 18, 1651, aged 40 years.

Towards the west end of the refectory, or church, stands the ancient font, which is of an octagonal form and ornamented with arched panels in the body and pedestal.

The internal dimensions of the refectory of Beaulieu Abbey are as follow : length, 97 feet ; width, 30 feet. Yours, etc., B.

[1863, Part I., p. 220.]

In your report of the meeting of the Christchurch Archaeological and Natural History Society, held on September 25, 1862, t you state " The second abbot of Beaulieu was appointed third bishop of Carlisle, and built the choir of Carlisle." Although the name of this dignitary is not stated, I presume Hugh de Bello Loco is meant. He was elected bishop in 1218, on the application of King Henry III. to the then reigning pontiff. He alienated several of the possessions of the see, and died miserably at the Abbey of La Ferte, in Nor- mandy, in 1223. I therefore conjecture (and, as Mr. Clayton very justly remarked at the last monthly meeting of our Society of Anti- quaries, "it is the business of an antiquary to conjecture") that De Bello Loco had no hand in the erection of the present choir, which was not commenced until the time of Silvester de Everdon, who became bishop in 1245. It was approaching completion when, in

* Engraved in vol. Ixxvii., ii., p. 201. — EDIT. f GentittfMM* s Magazine, January, 1863, p. 69.

46 Hampshire.

1292, a disastrous fire occurring, rendered extensive reparations necessary. The arches which escaped destruction were propped up by what Mr. Parker calls a clever piece of engineering, until the piers were rebuilt. The choir was elongated one bay in the fourteenth century, and the beautiful east window erected. It may, perhaps, be objected that the Abbot of Beaulieu might have designed a previous choir ; this I would meet by inferring that the Norman choir, which was finished in noi, remained intact until the time of De Everdon.

I am, etc., EDWARD THOMPSON.

Bighton.

[1809, Part II., pp. 905, 906.]

Bighton Church, county Hants (Plate I.), is about two miles north-east from Alresford, and consists of a nave, with north and south aisles, and a small chancel. At the west end is a wooden turret, containing three bells. The north and south aisles are each divided from the nave by one large and one small pointed arch, on massive circular pillars, with ornamental capitals. These pillars I conceive to have belonged to the ancient church mentioned, A.D. 1086, in the Domesday Survey of this place ;* and the font (Fig. 2), which is capacious and lined with lead, cannot be of much less antiquity. In the north aisle is a locker with a shelf; and below it a piscina, now plastered up. The south aisle has a niche for a piscina ; also two corbels for images.

On mural monuments in the chancel :

1. " Hie placide requiescit Maria Hopkins, pia, casta, et pulchra, femina omnibus numeris absoluta, quae gravante febre correpta, matura Deo, yramatura viro, ad vigesimum gbris et 2ndum diem, efflavit animam, Anno getatis suse 54. Salutis redintegrate, 1695. Optimse conjugi maritus Jo'es, ultimum amoris in- dicium, hoc M. quale quale ponendum censuit."

2. "J. Hopkins, M.A., Rector of this parish, dy'd Oct. 25, 1708; and left 50 pounds to repair the Church."

3. " Mrs. Grace Hawkins, the wife of William Hawkins, gent., late of Basing- stoke, in this county, the daughter and heiress of William Reeve, esq., of Burgh- field, in the county of Berks, by Johanna his wife, one of the daughters of Charles Collins, esq., of Betterton, in the same county, died April 22, 1735, aged 52. She was a serious and sincere Professor of ye Established Religion, and strict in the practice of its duties ; amiable in every relation of life ; kind to her servants, and compassionate to the poor ; a dutiful child, a faithful friend, a tender wife, and an affectionate and indulgent mother. This monument was erected by her husband, as a testimony of that sincere respect and affection which he bears to the memory of one of the best of wives, and one of the most virtuous of women."

Arms : Or, on a chevron, between three cinquefoils azure, as many escallop shells argent. On a chief gules, a griffin passant argent. Over all, on an escutcheon azure, a chevron between three pairs of wings conjoined argent.

On a slab in the chancel :

* " Bir.iiETOXE— ibi ecclesia." — Domesday, vo). i., fol. 43, a. col. I.

Bighton. 47

" H. S. E. Ann Hayward vid. quae (dierum et pietatis plena) vicesimo octavo die Martis, debitum naturae persolvit, Anno aetatis sure 84. Salmis reparatae, 1691."

These notes were taken October i, 1807, when the Rev. Mr. Harrison was Rector. WILLIAM HAMPER.

Bishop's Sutton.

Bishop's Sutton, county Hants, is a village on the London road from Alresford, at the distance of a mile and a quarter from that town. The church (Plate I., Fig. 3) consists of a nave and chancel, with a turret at the west end containing three bells. The north and south doorways are Norman ; the former having a dentil, and the latter a bird's head moulding. A Pointed arch leads into the chancel , which is divided from the nave by a wooden screen.

The chancel contains the following sepulchral memorials.

On a mural monument :

" Sacred to the memory of William Cowper, youngest son of Richard Cowper, of this county, esq., a citizen and surgeon of London; distinguished for genius, knowledge, and experience ; most humane and successful in every branch of his profession ; most eminent in the science of Anatomy, which whilst he prosecuted with unremitting perseverance, anxious to compleat his Treatise of Myotomy, he ruined his constitution by severe labour and watchings ; seized at the first with an asthmatick complaint, and afterwards with the dropsy. He died prematurely on the 8th day of March, in the year of our Lord 1709, and in the 43d year of his age. His afflicted wife erected this monument to the best of husbands.

Tablets for two children of John and Mary Eames Wright ; and slabs for —

Mary Seward, daughter of Richard Seward, died April 13, 1683 ; aged 1 8.

Richard Seward, September i, 1679; aged 62.

Sarah, daughter of Richard Seward, April 14, 16 . . .

John White the elder, January 30, 1626 ; aged 74.

Joane, wife of John White, December 13, 1641 ; aged 67.

John White the younger, June 21, 1633 ; aged 31.

John Waight, son of John Waight, 1708.

Anna, wife of John Waight, April 15, 1713 ; aged 57.

John Waight, buried July 24, 1708, aged 57.

Richard Waight, son of John Waight, August 25, 1700 ; aged 16.

Edward White, gent., January 22, 1656.

A large marble slab for Jane, wife of James Venables, Esq., of Woodcote, September 6, 1727, aged 50; James Venables, Esq., May 6, 1737, aged 51 ; Philippa, youngest daughter of James Venables, Esq., by Jane his wife, April 4, 1776, aged 58; Jane Collins, wife of Henry Collins, Esq., eldest daughter of James Venables, Esq., November 27, 1779, aged 66; Catharine Venables, of Woodcote, second daughter of James Venables and Jane his wife, June 30, 1789, aged 74.

48 Hampshire.

The chancel also contains brasses of a man (in plate armour, with- out helmet) and his wife, inscription gone ; and several ancient slabs turned face downward. In the nave is a large slab, robbed of arms and inscription, and a mural monument :

" In memory of John Waight, esq., one of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace for this County, who died the I4th Nov., 1776, aged 63 years, and of Elizabeth his first wife, who died the II April, 1762, aged 56 years ; and also of Mary his second wife, who died the I5th July, 1775, aged 46 years."

Arms : Argent, three bugle-horns, stringed, sable, impaling argent, a bear rampant, sable. Crest, a demi-bear erect, sable.

The ancient font (now thrown aside) is octagonal, on a stand of niche work ; the modern one, a clumsy square basin, on a cylindrical pedestal. These notes were taken October 2, 1807, when the Rev. Dr. Woolley was rector. WILLIAM HAMPER.

Bishop's Waltham.

[1800, Part If., pp. 1033, 1034.]

The church of Bishop's Waltham, Hants, is dedicated to St. Peter ; and the following occurrences concerning it are inserted in the parish register :

"The steeple and tower of the church fell down the 3ist day of December, 1582, and began to be re-edified 1584, and was finished in 1589.

"The North aile was built to enlarge the church in 1637.

" The South aile was taken down, new-built, and enlarged, in 1652.

"The roof of the middle aile was new-made and cieled in 1669.

" The gallery at the West end of the church was erected in the year 1733. The organ and organ-loft over the said gallery wtre put up in the year 1734."

The organ is a small one, but of a particular good tone, being built by the celebrated Bernard Schmidt, or, as we pronounce the name, Smith.

In the year 1798, a gallery over the south aisle was erected by subscription, capable of containing 160 persons.

In the south side of the chancel is a piscina, as sketched by the side of the plate.

The inscription over the porch is from Psalm Ixxxiv. : " How amiable are thy tabernacles, O Lord of Hosts !"

w.

Bramshot.

[l?9S. Part I, p. 40.]

I here send you some account of the parish church of Bramshot, Hants, which I collected while staying in that quarter. The church is a handsome structure, extremely regular, and built in the shape of a cross, consisting of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel ; it is dedicated

Bramshot. 49

to St. Mary, and valued in the King's books at ^18 gs. 2d. Yearly tenths ;£i i6s. nd. The living in the gift of Queen's College, Oxon.

In the north aisle, on a brass plate :

©rate pro a'wb'a Joh'nis ffidton.

Be Chnlttlre, ^rm-gcri, (Slijabtf

elxoris titia, filior'.filtar' &toov'

<£t pm' fibcliu.' befntutor',

<£t in illo ultimo iie V I r:t hinrtlii ft sv.'.

On a stone in the chancel even with the pavement :

" In hopes of a blessed resurrection, Here lyeth the Body of JOSEPH JACKSON, A.M., Rector of this Parish, and formerly Fellow of Queen's College, Oxon, who was a diligent pastor of his flock, a kind friend, a good neighbour, a loving husband, and a tender parent ; He died the igth of January, 1729, aged 72 years. Elizabeth, his Widow, as a testimony of her respect for his memory, caused this Monument to be put over him."

On a black marble affixed to the wall :

" In hopes of a joyful resurrection, Near this place, are deposited the remains of SARAH DENNIS, a daughter and coheiress of Ri. Whitehead, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Bramshot, and the Wife of the Rev. Jonathan Dennis, Rector of thij Parish. She was a Woman of singular Piety, Rare Virtues, and exemplary Modesty. To her Husband she was the best of Wives, To her Children the kindest of Mothers, To her Friends the smcerest Friend. She died regretted by all who knew her on the 28th day of October, 1780, in the 46th year of her age, Her loving Husband raised this stone to her memory."*

If you think the above account worthy of insertion in your much- esteemed Miscellany, you will oblige many of your friends by insert- ing it, and particularly Yours, etc., W »J« B.

['795. fart II., pp. 993, 994.]

Enclosed (see Plate II., Fig. i) you receive a view of Bramshot Church, Hants, which I should be extremely happy to see engraved in your valuable depository. FATHER PAUL.

Your correspondent " W. B." having favoured your readers with an account of Bramshot Church, I am induced to hope a view of it (Plate II., Fig. 2), will be acceptable ; and I send you the enclosed sketch, with a short description of the parish.

Bramshot is situated on the bo:ders of Hampshire, against Surrey, in the hundred of Alton ; is nearly enclosed on three sides by extensive heaths, having Hindhead on the east, Woolmer Forest on the west, and Rake Common on the south ; the situation is dry and pleasant, with extensive prospects to the west and north-west ; it is watered by a trout stream, which, in many places, is a boundary to the counties of Hants and Surrey ; the soil in general is sand, which near the borders of the stream is rich. The extensive heaths in the

* He departed this life May 22, 1711. VOL. XVII. 4

5<D Hampshire.

neighbourhood, though apparently barren, are of great benefit, feed- ing considerable flocks of sheep, whose fleeces are of very fine texture, and the flesh equal in flavour to the Bagshot mutton. The turf, being pared off and dried, is a good fuel, and in the forest there are extensive peat-moors. Of the heaths, great quantities of brooms are made, which affords employ to the poor; and in the summer the women and children gather large quantities of hurts, or whortle- berries. The street is small and straggling.

Liphook, a hamlet in this parish, is well built, and a great thorough- fare on the Portsmouth road. On the south side of the church is a building, divided into two stories, the lower open, and entered by two Gothic doorways, opposite to each other, which serves as a porch to the church ; the upper story has been used as a schoolroom. On the sides of the windows are shields bearing a cipher or merchant's mark (Fig. 5) ; the font is an octagon (Fig. 4).

On the south wall of the chancel is a niche with a piscina (Fig. 5).

In the upper part of the window, in the north transept, are fragments of painted glass ; and the sketch that accompanies this letter was taken from the north-east. S.

Your correspondent " W. B." having taken but a superficial glance of the parochial church of Bramshot, I beg leave to offer some additions.

The church itself is certainly a remarkably handsome structure, in the Gothic taste ; and I conjecture it to have been built about the time of Henry VII. The spire, covered with shingles, stands in the centre of the building, and is seen at a great distance off. There are innumerable vestiges of painted glass, scattered promiscuously in the windows, particularly in that of the north aisle, representing the Crucifixion, etc., done in very lively colours.

John Belton (see p. 40) was lord of the manor of Chyltelee, or Chirtley, a neighbouring parish, where one of his descendants resides, but conditioned to the humiliating necessity of day-labour.

In the north aisle, besides the effigies of Belton, are these in- scriptions. On a flat stone :

"John, son of John Whitehead, gent. Died July the 1 2th, 1697, aged one year and 8 months."

On another :

" Here lyeth the body of Grissell, the wife of John Hooke, Esq., who departed this life March the 4th, 1686, aged 69 years."

In the chancel, on a plain stone :

" Here lyeth interred the body of Elizabeth Clarke, daughter of Sir Francis Clarke, of JVi,Aan, in Buckinghamshire, who departed this life the 22d of Sep- tember, 1678."

Bramshot. 5 1

In the south aisle, on a brass plate :

" Covntu, Esquire, who departed this life, in a most assured hope of eterna rest, the 1st of May, anno 1668."

On a flat stone adjoining to the above are inscribed :

"Here lyes interred the bodey of John Hooke, Esq., who departed this life May the 4th, 1685, in the 8ist year of his age."

On a brass plate :

" Here lyeth the body of Margaret, the wife of Henry Hooke, Esq., who departed this life the I2th day of Janvarie, 1670."

On another :

" Here lyeth interred the body of John Hooke, of Bramshott, in the Covntie of South, Esq., who departed this life the 29th of June, Anno Domini 1613.

"'For I know that my Redeemer liveth, and thac he shall stand at the latter day upon the earth. And though after my skin worms destroy this body, yet in my flesh shall I see God." fob xix. 25, 26.

" Here lyeth the body of Barbara Hooke, wife of John Hooke, of Bramshott, in the countie of South, Esquire, who departed most religiously the nth day of Januarie, anno domini 1(122."

W. N.

Christchurch.

[1794, Part II., pp. 1093, 1094.]

In the course of last summer I was at Christchurch, in Hampshire. I wish I had been initiated into the graphic art, that I might have furnished you with a drawing of that noble structure, the church there. The antiquity of the building, its bold situation, and the venerable appearance it bears, must strike the eye of the most incurious. Strolling, as is my custom, along the churchyard, which is very spacious, the following curious inscription upon one of the tombstones engaged my attention :

" We were not slayne, but rays'd ;

Rays'd not to life, But to be buried t wice

By men of strife. What rest coul'l th' living have

When dead had none ? Agree amongst you.

Here we ten are one. HEN. ROGERS, died April 17, 1614."

It is earnestly requested, if any of your numerous readers and correspondents can throw any light upon this sui.ject, that they would favour the world with an explanation.

I could gain no information on the spot. To what can it allude ? Not to the civil war, for it was not as yet burst forth. The months of April and May, 1641, were occupied by the disputes between King Charles and the House of Commons respecting the Earl of Strafford.

4—2

5 2 Hampshire.

I cannot but imagine but that the whole alludes to religious differences, and to some denial of what is called Christian burial, or repose, to some family (for ten are spoken of, although only one name appears at the bottom, Hen. Rogers), and that it had been the subject of much discussion and various determination. But I wait for better information.

The stone on which the above is inscribed is erect, and of the usual size. The ground before it is perfectly fiat, and bears no mark of any tumulus. I attribute this to the length of time.

Yours, etc., A. OO.

[1810, Part I., pp. 6, 7.]

In my perambulations through the south-west of Hampshire, Christchurch could not foil to call my attention. This beautiful church, in a state of dilapidation, but now about to receive con- siderable repairs, was too good an object to pass unnoticed ; perhaps there is not in the kingdom a more beautiful nave, supported by the Saxon circular arch ; and it the intenJed repair should be conducted with liberality and consistency, this interesting church will not fail to become a national characteristic of taste and propriety. . . .

To take away the whole of the pews in Christchurch, to remove the organ to the west end, and place it on a screen corresponding to the architecture of the church ; to make good the broken but beautiful slender shafts, is only (to use a sea-phrase) "to clear decks ready for action "; after which much remains to be done, and, if done properly, the church will not only be a credit to the town, but an ornament to the county — a county in which are to be found more caves than churches, affording no gratification to the traveller, the antiquary, or the man of taste.

On a plain marble tablet in the north wall of the chancel is the following memento to the memory of the worthy vicar's wife :

" Sacred to the memory of Sarah, wife of the Rev. Samuel Clapham, A.M., Vicar of this Parish, and of Great Westbourne, Yorkshire, and Rector of Gussage St. Michael, Dorset, who departed this life Nov. 14, 1807, aged 52 years. Believing the doctrines, she obser\ed the ordinances, and practised the duties of Christianity. Go, Reader, and, animated with the view, and supported by the hope of immortality, 'do thou likewise.'"

T. W.

[1810, Part I., pp. 517-520.]

In order to render the subject of what is contemplated to be done to this church the more comprehensible to those of your readers who are unacquainted with this magnificent edifice, I will briefly state that it was the church of the late Priory ; that it is now nearly in the same state (the pews excepted) in which it was left at the dissolu- tion ; and that, in its different parts, it comprehends specimens of architecture and architectural ornament of vaiious periods, from the reign of William Rufus to the end of the fifteenth century. It is

Christchurch. 53

built in the form of a cross, and in its exterior length measures about 310 feet.

I had long remarked that under the numerous coats of whitewash, which during the last two centuries had by degrees covered the whole interior of the building to the thickness of a coat of plaster, there were many ornaments entirely concealed from observation. I was at the trouble myself of clearing a few of these, and was so much pleased with the result that I requested and obtained leave to proceed in similar discoveries throughout the whole church. The Earl of Malmesbury, who is the- lay rector of this parish, besides aiding me most liberally with a considerable sum of money, per- mitted me also to take any steps which I might think necessary with respect to the chancel. A subscription has been entered into, which in the whole will amount to about ^250. This, I acknow- ledge, is a small sum to be applied upon so large an edifice as the church of Christchurch ; but, with a due attention in every respect to economy, and with the allowance from the parish of a sum equal to what the whitewashing of the church would cost, I have every reason to think that it will be sufficient.

My sole object in this undertaking is to restore, as far as lies in my power, the whole interior of the church and chancel to its pristine state.

The whitewash is in progress of being scraped off from every part. The colour which has been adopted in the place of it is laid on very thin, and is as nearly that of the original stone as piossible.

The porch, with its rich pointed arch, and pillars of Purbeck marble, and its arched recess for holy water on the right hand of the entrance, is finished. The nave, the finest, perhaps, of any parish church in the kingdom, has been cleared, except along the gallery at the upper part, and will be coloured in the course of the spring. The zig-zag moulding of the semicircular arches of the nave, as well as all the hatched work, or triangular indentations, which occupy the surface of the walls betwixt them and the second story of arches, have been cleared ot the lime and whitewash with which they were clogged up. In several parts the hatched work had been actually plastered over with lime for the purpose of rendering the walls of uniform surface. In the second story there was a lath and plaster partition, nearly in tront, that occupied the space betwixt the arches and short pillars. This space was formerly open, but owing to the church being rendered thereby extremely cold, it was thus closed up about twenty-five or thirty years ago. As I could not have obtained permission entirely to take away these partitions, I removed them about two feet farther back ; by this means the whole of the three pillars at the sides are now exposed, and the centre pillar stands alone. When I was in Exeter in June last I observed that precisely the same plan had been adopted in the cathedral of that city. The

54 Hampshire.

capitals of the immense Norman piers of the nave have for the most part been much injured by time, but some of them are yet in good preservation.

In the south aisle, opposite to the entrance, a Norman window has been discovered, which had been built up and plastered over on a level with the wall. The low pillars and semicircular arches, with billeted moulding, which extend along the wall of this aisle, have been entirely freed from the lime and whitewash with which all their ornamental parts were almost concealed. Fragments of similar arches and pillars, that had in some places been built up with lime and rubbish, were also found in the south and north transepts. In the west wall of the south transept there is a round-headed window, which was before concealed, precisely similar to the one that is opposite to the entrance.

From the south aisle, passing the screen which separates the chancel from the body of the church, and which was sadly mutilated about the year 1790 by the placing of the organ upon it,* I will enter the eastern part of the church. This is of a much later date than the rest. In the south-east aisle there are two chantries. The one at the eastern extremity, which is of the same beautiful stone as the much celebrated chantry of the Countess of Salisbury in the chancel, was in the same state as all the other parts of the church. The stone was, however, so smooth, and all the carved work so sharp, that after the lime had been cleared away it was as fresh in nearly every respect as it could have been immediately after it was finished. Along its upper part is now visible in Gothic characters the date "ANNO DOMINI MILLESIMO QUINGINTESIMO xxiv°"; and in two or three places are the initials J. D., for John Draper, the prior who surrendered the monastery into the hands of Henry VIII. This chantry has been a subject of great admiration to all who recollect- it in its former state. It has not been, nor will it be, coloured.

The other chantry in this aisle is on the north side, and occupies the space betwixt two of the columns that separate the aisle and the choir. It was constructed in the year 1525, and bears the name of Robert Harrye, who, it is supposed, was rector of Shrowton, a living which belonged to the priory of Christchurch. As this chantry has neither been whitewashed nor coloured, it will be left without any attempt at improvement.

The door of the vestry is in the south wall, nearly opposite to the last-mentioned chantry. Amongst the improvements in this place have been the opening and glazing of a window in the entrance, and taking away a modern oak floor, which divided it into an upper and lower compartment. On the removing of this floor we found against

* I say nothing in this place of the blue and white polygonal gallery in front of the organ.

Christchurch. 55

the wall a fragment of painting about 2 feet in length and 9 inches deep, which would seem to represent two people playing at quarter- staff. It had been preserved by part of a beam of the floor resting against it In the entrance to the vestry there has formerly been an altar, and in the wall facing the door there is a double Gothic seat, which had been built up with lime and rubbish.

The Lady Chapel, or Chapel of St. Mary, which occupies the space of the extreme east end of the church, behind the high altar, has had the greatest part of the lime cleared from it. and will probably be finished in the course of a .month. The two Purbeck marble altar-tombs in memory of Alice and Thomas de West, ancestors of the present de la Were family, had, like the other parts of the church, been whitewashed. The beautilul Gothic work over the altar of this chapel has been cleaned with great care. The vaulting and the lantern ornaments, several of which have on their under parts figures of persons playing on musical instruments, are in an excellent state of preservation.

Corresponding with Draper's chantry, at the extremity of the south-east aisle there has evidently been another at the extremity of the opposite aisle. No parts of it, however, are now left in their place, except .an elegant piscina or fenestella.* I am strongly of opinion that several carved stones with which the window in the entrance to the vestry was found to be blocked up did originally form part of this chantry.

On the north side of this aisle, and corresponding with the vestry (on the opposite side of the church), there are two extremely elegant oratories, which twelve months ago were receptacles only for rubbish. They have been cleared, the rubbish taken away to the depth of about two feet, and the windows glazed. Into one of these oratories was removed in the year 1791 an altar-tomb with a recumbent male or female figure (belonging to the family of Chidiock in Dorsetshire), which had before stood in the north transept. The walls and the pillars have been made good. Unfortunately one of the arches is in so shattered a state that it cannot be repaired but at a much greater expense than the present subscription will allow. These oratories both open into the north transept.

In the choir much remains to be done. Three of the window?, which are now in a great measure blocked up partly with stone and partly with lath ahd plaster, will again be opened. The stalls will te oiled. A new railing will be placed before the high altar, in place of the heavy red balustrade now there, which would disgrace the work- manship of the lowest carpenter in the parish. The high altar-screen . . . will be cleaned with the greatest care. This, unfortunately, has had upon its original colouring and gilding two or three different coats of colour, of which the worst to get off are one of dark red and

* There is one precisely similar in Draper's chantry.

56 Hampshire.

the last of white oil paint. As it will not be possible entirely to clear away the red colour, there will, I fear, be no alternative but in con- clusion to paint the whole in distemper as nearly of a stone colour as possible. In various parts of this altar-screen the figures have been mended by composition. This is chiefly observable in the heads and faces, and is evidently the work of persons who have lived sub- sequently to the Reformation.

To your correspondent "S. W.," page 7, who recommends it to the person who has the superintendence of the alterations in the church " to take away the whole of the pews, remove the organ to the west end, and place it on a screen corresponding with the architecture of the church," after which he says much remains to be done, I have no farther reply than that the re-pewing of the church (according to estimates which were given in, in order to see how far that might be practicable) would alone cost nearly ^1,000. His observations respecting the yellow wash remind me of a notion that was prevalent among some of the old women of the parish, that the church was to be coloured all over French gray with a yellow border.

Yours, etc., WILLIAM BINGLEY.

[1820, Part J.,p. 232.]

Having lately passed through Christchurch, Hants, I visited the fine old conventual church there, and was extremely gratified by the great improvements made during the last year in that magnificent structure, which now resembles a cathedral much more than a parish church.

A new vaulted roof of stucco, jointed and coloured so as to imitate stone, has been erected in the nave, after the early Pointed style, from the designs of William Garbett, Esq., of Winchester, the pro- portions of which are extremely fine, and the outline peculiarly bold. The rib-mouldings are a continuation of the springers that remained of the old stone roof, which the inhabitants have a tradition was carried in by the fall of the centre tower and spire ; and the bosses of foliage at the intersection of the ribs are copied from some fine key-stones in other parts of the church, so that the general effect is beaudful and antique.

The lengthened perspective from the western door is very fine ; and since the organ, which is placed on the stone screen at the entrance of the choir, has been reduced several feet in height at the centre of the framework, the whole of the groined roof of the choir is now visible from the west end of the church, and the contrast afforded between that elaborate and emirhed canopy and the simple and beautiful groin of the nave is very striking. The Gothic columns and the mouldings round the windows of the upper or clerestory tier of arches, as well as the Norman pilasters and columns, etc., of the nave, have been restored. The fine stone screen under the organ

Christchurch. 57

and the gallery, which unfortunately was placed upon it thirty years ago, have been cleaned and repaired ; they were both painted of a bright blue colour. The screen has been scraped and cleaned, and the gallery painted to imitate dark oak wainscot.

In the choir, which was (excepting the stalls) restored under the direction of the Rev. Wm. Bingley, A.M., with due care and attention some years ago, great improvements have now been made. The fine lace-work carving in wood running round the top of the stalls, which on the south side was much injured, and on the north almost destroyed, together with the rich Gothic crockets or finials, which had been sawn off from the top at some former periorl, have been replaced. The sub-prior's stall has been removed opposite the prior's, where it originally stood ; and its canopy, which was much broken and destroyed, completed in unison with what remained of the original design. At the back of some of the stalls the carving had been taken away, and the vacant places filled up with plain wood; the carvings have now been replaced. The whole of the stalls, together with the altar, rails, etc., have been cleaned, oiled, and varnished. A trumpery painting in water-colours over the un- rivalled stone screen behind the high altar, encompassed with a salmon-coloured frame, which was placed there some fifty years ago, has been defaced, and the groundwork of wood coloured the same as the screen.

Many minor improvements have taken place lately in this in- teresting building, which reflect the greatest credit on the gentry, clergy, and churchwardens of this extensive parish.

The expense of ceiling the nave, as the sexton informed me, amounted to ^800, which was raised by subscription ; and that it was now in contemplation to ceil the western and ancient tower as the nave, and to place a flat ceiling on the south transept similar to that on the north.

In the aisles of the choir and in the Lady Chapel are some fine chantries, many gravestones of the priors, and tombs of benefactors to the Conventual Church, and some very fine modern monuments, particularly one by Flaxman to the memory of Lady Fitzharris, and another by Chantry.

Yours, etc., VIATOR.

P.S. — The old sacristy, which is now the vestry, presents some curious specimens of ancient sculpture, particularly a beautiful head of a female religieuse. Under the transepts are subterraneous chapels, or crypts.

[1834, Part II., pp. 356-358-]

My publication on the antiquities of Christchurch, which you referred to as progressing, I have now the satisfaction of stating to

58 Hampshire,

you is completed. In it will be found all that relates to, and which has guided me in, the renovation of the several portions of the building. The evidence which is quoted, as justifying the different features adopted in my design, is perhaps not so explicitly worded in the title to my drawing as might have been satisfactory to my own mind ; but as the regulations of the institution demanded concise- ness of superscription, I endeavoured to avoid being verbose. The authorities given in my work consist of recorded documents, and deductions which are clearly warranted by a practical consideration of the present state of the edifice ; from the deficiencies of the former our only conclusions can be drawn from the latter, and were this course more frequently pursued, the investigation would amply repay the inquirer by developing much that is curious and interesting in construction, and which loo often is altogether neglected, or con- sidered of very minor importance. My studies having been par- ticularly directed to this object (during several tours with my late respected friend, Mr. Pugin, whose scientific works are too well known to require my encomiums), I can bear humble testimony to this description of research, and, impressed with its value, can highly appreciate the talents of my friend, Mr. Garbett, of Winchester. This gentleman has kindly favoured me with a communication of great interest upon the church at Christchurch, whose observations carry with them almost indisputable evidence of truth, and in the absence of recorded facts on the various portions to which he refers, may safely be received as practically correct. With this belief, in con- nection with such information as I could gle?n from the " Historia Fundationis Coenobi de Twynham " (given in the Appendix, No. J, of my work), I have constituted my restoration of the main portions of the fabric. In reference to the ornamental details, I have endeavoured to render them suitable to those still existing, and consonant with the particular date, and other accredited works of the architect Flanibard. The foregoing observations being intruded on your notice, I will not occupy more space in your valuable periodical than the reply to your noti< e requires.

Tradition, then, states that the four main points at the junction of the nave, choir, and transepts formerly supported a superstructure. That a tower (and perhaps a spire) formed a part of the intention of the original founder we can entertain no doubt : so distinguishing a trait in conventual buildings must have been contemplated in the priory church of Christchurch, and, indeed, that it was carried into effect, although subsequently destroyed through some casualty, there seems abundant proof in the shattered appearances still remaining near its precincts. In page 81 of my work will be found Mr. Garbett's inquiry on this subject, with whose conclusion I perfectly agree. The two lower windows of the tower introduced in my drawing may yet be traced in the (now) eastern gable of the nave

Christckurch. 59

roof, and also some portions of the staircase turret at the north-west angle of the tower are still discoverable. On these remains I have erected my tower and spire, the former in the characteristic style of Norman towers of that period ; but I have not ventured to place a stone covering of coeval date, not being aware of any remaining specimen of purely Norman stone roof or spire of such large dimensions, should even such have ever been erected. The termina- tion of turrets cannot aptly be applied to towers of such extent ; I chose rather to place a wooden spire similar to those by which Norman towers are now surmounted, if not embellished with an early Pointed stone spire.*

So many changes have been made in the architecture of this church since its reconstruction by Flambard, that it is only by the most careful detection of the original ground plan that we can form to ourselves the primitive beauty of its arrangements and by com- paring its ichnography with Flambard's magnificent erections at Durham judge of the elevations this prelate had intended. The north transept of Durham Cathedral (the accredited work of Bishop Flambard, erected after his translation from Christchurch to that see), not having been subjected to such great innovations as the transept of Christchurch, affords a fair guide for this object. In my drawing I have shown a turret on the curious projecting staircase at the north-east angle of the north transept, considering the present abrupt termination as effected at the time when the transept gable and other portions underwent modification. The south transept still retains a Norman staircase turret, although its upper parts have been altered in the Tudor times. This transept likewise possesses a curious Norman apsis, with which the north transept, there can be little doubt, was once similarly ornamented. Both the turret and apsis I have restored in my drawing, considering that proofs remain of their former existence. We find the transepts of Durham also flanked by decorative turrets.

The Lady Chapel is the next part of my drawing, in which will be seen a great variation from the present building. That the upper story, called St. Michael's Loft, was an addition of after times, forming no part of the original design, I had long entertained the strongest belief from its incongruity of design ; but the recent examinations by Mr. Garbett has further corroborated this fact. His words I here add:

" The Lady Chapel with its two wings, now forming the eastern continuation of the choir aisles, "were unquestionably built previous to the erection of the present choir and its aisles, which is rendered evident, not only by the junction of the masonry, but by the window,

* The tower of the little church at Than, in Normandy, is perhaps the most re- markable instance of the primitive Norman stone roofs, whence arose the elegant pointed spires.

60 Hampshire,

or rather doorway, discoverable in what was the west wall of the Lady Chapel, in a situation now between the vaulted ceiling of that edifice and the floor of St. Michael's Loft ; and it is further evident that the present choir building must have been erected previous to St. Michael's Loft, inasmuch as it is found that a continuation of the height of the wall last mentioned formed, upon the rebuilding of the choir, the eastern wall of that part of the church, in which wall another window or doorway is found between the vaulted ceiling and roof. Now, to connect this theory of the progress of the structure, we must observe that the facing of the part of the wall first mentioned is towards the west, and that of the second part is towards the east, forming an outward face before the additional story was raised upon the Lady Chapel to be dedicated to St. Michael."

It will be seen also in my drawing that the choir aisles terminate on a line with the eastern wall of the choir. The complete and elegant finish of the Lady Chapel both within and without are convincing proofs that it originally stood unencumbered ; the stair- cases and loft, as well as the eastern compartment of the choir aisles, being evidently subsequent adjuncts. From this singular arrangement, it will be obvious that no communication could previously have existed between the Lady Chapel and choir aisles, as the two eastern compartments of the choir aisles abutting against the Lady Chapel must have constituted at any time the only connection between the two. This leads me to offer an opinion with great diffidence that, previous to this alteration, the communication from the choir to the Lady Chapel was through the ancient crypt here situated, the singular construction of which wouM favour such a belief ; it is flanked on the east, north, and south sides by strongly- moulded arches, under which, by flights of steps, as at Wimborne Minster, a communication to and through the crypt into the Lady Chapel might have been effected. The Crypt has also traces of some architectural embellishment, probably made at the period when the Lady Chapel was built ; but its appearance is so completely disguised by the introduction of modern works as to render the full inquiry into this matter attended with much difficulty.

Your comments on the western towers shown in my drawing lead to my final observation. In the consideration of these important appendages I have had very few local remains for my guidance ; my inference has been drawn from the position of an ancient staircase, of which appearances are visible at the west end of the south aisle 01" the nave, and accompanied with an external projection, which could only have been built with a view to some prominent feature of design. Connecting this with the bold and beautiful arrangement of the nave, so singularly Norman in its combination, I entertain no doubt but that Flambard proposed the erection of two western

Christchurch. 6 1

towers, according to the prevailing fashion of his country, and so generally followed in Britain.

In respect to their "size and form," I can only state that their breadth is regulated by the dimensions of the aisles, and their height suited to the nature of their design. In the north transept of Durham will be seen a staircase turret, almost as large as one of the towers in question, and the gradation from the square basement to the octagonal shape elegantly warranted ; this may perhaps be considered a favour- able authority, as being sanctioned by the style of Flambard. The tower of Tamerville, in Normandy, affords additional evidence of the octangular form adapted to towers as well as turrets. Both these instances, I submit, may be cited as sufficient precedents for the combination I have assumed. Should these remarks prove sufficient to exonerate me from the charge of inapplicability, I shall be satisfied, presuming you will allow me that latitude of design which is needed, in the presumed restoration of an ancient edifice. Apologizing for this lengthened communication,

I am, yours, etc., BENJAMIN FERREY.

[1848, Part I., pp. 183, 184.]

The anticipated removal of the rood-screen in this beautiful church has caused the committee of the Archaeological Institute to publish the following reasons for its preservation : I. Because the amount of space of nave and transept left to the congregation is more than sufficient at present ; and the removal of the rood-screen, and the conversion of the nave and choir into one large auditorium would be practically inconvenient, inasmuch as the clergyman, who is now imperfectly heard, would be wholly inaudible to many of the congre- gation. 2. Because the church shows the most perfect arrangement of a conventual building extant, being complete in its nave, aisle, transepts, chancel, Lady Chapel, sacristy, chantry, chapels, and reredos, which remain undisturbed in their ancient proportions ; further, that the rood-screen exhibits, even in its shattered state, the remains of certainly the most beautiful rood-screen of the time of Edward III. in this country ; its double tier of niches being chaste in design, and of a bold and masterly execution. 3. That the removal of this screen must necessarily disturb the stalls of the choir, with the peculiar arrangement of seats for prior, sub-prior, and the brethren, besides rendering too conspicuous the unequal widths of the nave and choir, the awkwardness of which is at present skilfully concealed and overcome by the position of the screen, which now separates the nave and the chancel. 4. That the conversion of so large a measure of the building into one area was never contemplated by the builders of the church ; that the stalls, the high altar-screen, with its unrivalled genealogical representation of Jesse, and the Salisbury chantry, are objects seen to the best advantage from a moderate distance ; that

6a Hampshire.

their effect is the best when the choir is entered from the door of the rood-screen ; if viewed from the west end, their details would be altogether confused and lost. The Earl of Malmesbury, the chair- man of the local committee, has replied to these reasons seriatim, but announces a determination to adhere to the plan proposed.

[1860, Part I., p. 277.]

A curious discovery was recently made at Christchurch by Mr., Ferrey. Over the apsidal chapel in the south transept is a similar chapel in the story above ; but over the two Decorated chapels of the north transept is an oblong chamber with windows, which were never glazed, but were closed by shutters. It was called ''Oliver Cromwell's saddle-room," and certain holes were shown in the plaster on the west wall which were said to mark the places where the Ironsides fixed pegs to hold their horses' bridles, etc. As every Jacobean building is attributed locally to Inigo Jones, so all dilapidations of remote times are set down to " Old Noll." But no Roundhead did harm to Christchurch. On opening the shutters and admitting a strong light, the plaster displayed the perfect plan of a Decorated window, punctured and outlined ; on a careful measurement of an empty window-case at the east end of the south aisle of the nave, the dimensions of tracery, lights, and mullions were found to correspond identically. This window is now being filled in accordance with this original design. This room probably was appropriated to the master of the fabric. To the south of the south transept were the refectory and kitchen. But on the west side of the north transept were the so-called " Castellan's rooms." With that perfect Norman house by the side of the Avon, and the keep on the mound adjoining, the castellan would not require apartments built on the side of a church. There were steps and a door leading to them out of the north aisle of the nave ; is it not more probable that they formed perhaps a sacristy below, and a library or muniment-chamber above ?

I am, etc., MACKENZIE WALCOTT, M.A.

P.S. — A good Early English door, that used by the prior in enter- ing from the cloister, has been discovered within the last fortnight in the easternmost bay of the south nave aisle.

Easton.

[1774. /• 124-]

In the chancel of the church of Easton, near Winchester, is this remarkable epitaph :

"Agatha Barlow, widow (daughter of Humphrey Welsborne), wife of William Barlow, Bishop of Chichester (who departed this life the thirteenth of August, anno Domini 1568, and lieth buried in the cathedral church of Chichester), by whom she had seven children, that came unto men and women's state, two sons and live daughters. The sons William and John : the daughters, Margaret, wife of William Overtoil, Bishop of Cov«ntrie and Litchfield ; Ann, wife unto Herbert

Easton. 63

Westfayling, Bishop of Hereford ; Elizabeth died anno , wife unto William

Day, now Bishop of Winchester ; Frances, wife unto Toby Matthew, Bishop of Durham ; Antonine, late wife unto William Wickham, deceased, Bishop of Win- chester. She being a woman, godly, wise, and discreet from her youth, most faithful unto her husband both in prosperitie and adversitie, and a companion with him in banishment for the Gospel sake, most kind and loving unto all her children, and dearly beloved of them all ; for her ability, of a liberal mind and pitiful unto the poor, she having lived about LXXXX, died in the Lord, whom she daily served, the Ijth of June, anno Domini 1595, in the house of her sonne, being parson of this church, and prebendary of Winchester. Rogatu et sumptibus filiae dilectae Francissae Matthew. 1595. The righteous shall be had in everlasting remem- brance."

East Meon.

[1819, Pan ii., pp. 298-301.]

The village of East Meon, Hants, is of high antiquity, situated at the foot of a lofty and stupendous hill, at the side extremity of a valley, interspersed with rich meadows, numerous woodlands, and extensive downs. Though we possess no authentic resources from which we may learn its state in the time of the Saxons, yet it seems pretty generally acknowledged,* that even at this early period, the very large and extensive parish to which it gives a name, with the addition of a fine tract of land to the south-west, was considered of some importance.

When the Saxon power was superseded by that of the Normans, this parish appears to have engaged the particular attention of Walkelyn, the Conqueror's cousin ; and this circumstance may perhaps be accounted for by the intimate connection subsisting between the parish and the opulent see of Winchester.! However this may be, it is a fact well authenticated, this enterprising prelate evinced his liberality and taste by erecting the present church in a style of elegance, which, after a lapse of seven centuries, will not fail to command universal admiration.

This structure is built in the form of a cross, and consists of nave, chancel, south aisle, and transepts, with a tower at the intersection. The interior length of the church is 108 feet, and the breadth of the nave and south aisle 36 feet. At the west front of the building the attention of the stranger will be arrested by an original doorway, which presents us with a fine specimen of the Norman arch, elegantly ornamented with chevron and billeted moulding, supported by clustered columns. This doorway was formerly intercepted from view by a small, mean-looking porch, which within the last few years has been pulled down and entirely removed. At the same end of the church is a beautiful window in the Pointed style, the tracery of which is exquisite, elegantly surmounted by a quatrefoil.

* Bede, " Ecc. Hist.," lib. iv., c. 13.

t From time immemorial the Bishops of Winchester have been the patrons of the living. The customary tenants hold their lands by virtue of a " fine certain," and no tenant forfeits his estate except in case of felony or treason.

64 Hampshire.

On entering the church, the first object in the nave worthy of notice is the stone pulpit, a curiosity of which few churches can boast. It is apparently of excellent workmanship, but sorely dis- figured by an execrable crust of thick whitewash. The front and sides are divided into several compartments; and from the arches and panel-work it contains, the execution of the whole may perhaps be assigned to the reign of Henry VII. On the north side of the body of the church is an original lancet-shaped window. A little more to the east the eye is disgusted at seeing the thick and almost impenetrable wall of the building broken through and disgraced by the introduction of a modern square light.

The strong, massive tower, by far the noblest ornament of the church, stands on four semicircular arches, supported by columns or pilasters, the capitals of which are ornamented with plain upright leaves. Like the area in the Church of St. Michael's, Southampton, so ably described by that eminent antiquary, Sir Henry C. Engle- field, it forms a sort of vestibule to the chancel, and is open to the south transept, but separated from the north door by a modern wall, through which is a small doorway similar in design and execution to its neighbour the square window, before described.

The north transept is now used as a Sunday and day school for the neighbourhood. I was much gratified to learn that on Sundays no less than 160 children are collected in this room for religious instruction — a considerable number, when it is recollected that the neighbouring tunings or hamlets, from which many of the children come, are, some of them at least, three or four miles from church.

It cannot but be a matter of regret, that when this room was first devoted to the purpose of instruction, it was not done with more taste and care. The present deal floor is raised six or seven feet from the ground, and a communication is made with the church by means of a narrow staircase. The east window has made way for a door, and the place of the north door is now occupied by a chimney. Underneath the above-mentioned deal floor is a dark room, in which fuel is kept for the use of the school. . . .

In the chancel are tablets or monuments, erected to the memory of the ancient family of Dickens, formerly of Riplington in this parish, but now merged in distant branches, and nearly extinct.

I copy the following inscriptions, as worthy of insertion in your Miscellany :

" M. S. Francisci Dickin Armr, qui multis domi tnilitiseq ; pro Rege ac Patria, labori's exhaustus, hie tandem requievit. Et Magdalenae Uxoris ejus, quae conjugi plures annos superstes, nic ipsa morte divellanda comes, non alios voluit inter cinercs jacere.

"M. S. Francisci Dickins de Ripplington, LL.D., amiqua familia ortus, antiquis ipse moribus, apud Cantabrigienses in aula S. S. Trinitatis Juri Civili

East Meon. 6s

incumbens a diva Anna ad Cathfdram Professoriam evictus est ; quam summa cum laude quadraginla per annos implevit. In praelertionibus a&siduus, facundus, doctus; in disputationibusdulcissed utilis ; illustri.ssimam Academiam iilustriorem red<lidit. Dei cultor baud infrequens ; homine* onini charitate complexus ; inter amicos verax, candidus, festivus ; parcus sibi, pauperihus dives, obijt ccelcbs, non sine maximo bonorum omnium luctu, A.I). 1755, retat. 78. Hoc grati animi testimonium optimo Patruo poui curavit AMBROSIUS DICKINS, Arniig.'

" M. S. Rtverendi Via Joarnis Downes, A. M. hujus Eccloias novissimi vicarij ; viri plane bimplicis et innocui, in lilens tam sacris quam profanis minime hospitis ; denique ad omne bonum opus semper prompt! et parati, qui apud vicinas axles, brevi hujusce vitse stadio decurso, ubi natus ihi dcnauis, heic tandem inter patrios cineres reponit suos utrosque rcsuscitandos securus. Diem obijt supremum 15 Januarij, 1732, anati.s 50. Marm. Downts, S. T. B. coll. D. Joann'. apud Cant. soc. defuncti frater germanus, natu minimus, saxum hoc, amoris ergo poni voluit."

" M. S. Quondam Richardi jacet hie Joanna Dunsei nunc Salvatoris sponsa futura sui. Abiit Sept. 3, 1659, ce-atis 40.

From the extreme dampness of the walls in the chancel, it has been deemed necessary to interline the wall within the rails of the altar with a panelling of oak. . . .

Passing under an elegant Pointed arch, we enter the east end of the south aisle, which, till furnished with a more suitable appellation, I shall designate our Lady's Chapel. Here, doubtless, stood the prothesis, or side-altar, the remains of which are perhaps still visible in the present old table, which has occupied its station under the eastern window from time immemorial. Two steps, extending the whole breadth of the chapel, and leading up to the altar, still remain ; as does also a projection in the wall, somewhat in the form of a cornice, on which was formerly placed the basin containing the holy water. Here in two miserable boxes, on the top of one of which is painted memento mori, the archives of the Church are preserved.

The south transept is of the same size with the north transept, and measures within the walls 25 feet in length, and 17 in breadth. It is lighted by an acute-angled window, similar to one in the nave. Here is the burying-place of the highly-respectable family of the Eyles's. To the memory of different branches of this family five mural monuments are erected, the simple elegance of which will secure attention.

On a small tablet of Sussex marble, on the west side of the transept, is the following inscription, which, from its simplicity, I take the liberty of inserting :

" HEARE LYETH THE BODY OF RICHARD SMYTHKR, \VHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE IN HOPE OF A BETTER, MARCH Ye 1 6, 1633.''

The communication of the south transept with our Lady's Chapel on the east and the aisle on the west, is made by the segment of a circle, which appears to have been broken in each of the walls, when the addition hereafter to be mentioned was made to the church. Passing under one of these segments, we enter the aisle, by far the

VOL. xvn. 5

66 Hampshire.

most disgraceful part of the edifice. At the west end, near the steps leading into the organ-gallery, is another wood-house, which, since no fires are kept in the church, appears to be altogether superfluous. At the opposite end of the aisle is a rude and unsightly gallery, the workmanship of which would disgrace the most ignorant village mechanic. Ascending the steps of this gallery, we observe in the south wall two oblong narrow windows, placed together after the manner of the latter end of the twelfth reiitury, when the Pointed arch was as yet scaicely known. "This disposition ot lights," as the learned antiquary of Winchester observes, " occasioned a dead space between their heads ;" doubtless the village Nestors nad just discern- ment sufficient to mark the defect ; and conceiving it would add to the beauty of this part of the church as well as increase the reflection of light into the gallery, determined to fill up the space between the heads of the offending windows by the introduction of a trefoil or a (juatrefoil. But, unfortunately, the man employed to make the pro- jected improvement was not possessed of the sapience of his employers ; and instead of introducing either of the above-mentioned ornaments, actually perforated a hole in the wall, neither square, round, nor oval ; and without the least addition of moulding or tracery, finished his undertaking by placing in the aperture one solitary piece of glass !

When this gallery, commonly called the Oxenborne Gallery, was erected, I have had no means of ascertaining. In the tithing of Oxen- borne formerly stood a chapel belonging to this parish. Not the least vestige, however, now remains. The plough has repeatedly passed over the place where once stood the sacred fane dedicated to St. Nicholas. It is probable that at the demolition of this chapel the people resident in the tithing might be compensated by being allowed to erect the gal:ery in question. It appeared necessary that a place should be provided for this part of the parishioners; but the only subject of deliberation appears to have been in what manner the church could be most effectually disfigured. This question was fully answered in the event. This assertion I shall exemplify by stating that the gallery, occupying the span of one arch only, fronts the pulpit, and looks into the nave of the church. In this con- spicuous situation it might reasonably have been expected that some regard would have been paid to decency, if not to neatness. But alas ! neither neatness nor decency was taken into consideration. Ex- clusive of the extreme clumsiness of the workmanship, an addition is made which is, in the strictest sense of the word, intolerable. Over the column on which part of the gallery rests stands a pew, some- thing like an opera-box, which, suspended by a single rafter, projects into the nave and overhangs the pews below, much to the terror of the alarmed spectator.

The whole of the exterior of fhe nave, transepts and aisle has

East Meon. 67

been besmeared with a sort of yellow wash, and it was by mere accident that the tower, the original work of Walkelyn, was saved from a similar fate. Like the generality of such buildings in Hampshire, this edifice is composed chiefly of hard mortar and small flints. The above-mentioned tower, however, is built with a durable stone, scarcely affected by the destructive hand of time. It is perfectly square, and measures on the outside 24 feet. It rises square above the roof of the nave upwaids of 20 (eet, and is surmounted by a spire, which, whatever may be said as to its propriety or impropriety, certainly adds to the effect of the sunounding scenery, and con- stitutes an interesting and pleasing object. Though by no means to be compared in magnitude to the massive tower at Winchester, it is not saying too much to affirm that it is equal in workmanship and superior in design. Its treble circular arches, its numerous chevron and billeted mouldings, the capitals and ornaments of its columns, together with the modest magnificence of its outline and structure, are conclusive evidence of its antiquity.

The churchyard of this parish is uncommonly spacious ; and from its extent, and from the fineness of its mould, seems peculiarly Suited to the mournful purposes to which it is devoted. It is kept tolerably free from nuisances, and abustd only by one footpath. It still retains its ancient appellation of Liten. At the west end of this cemetery is an elegant marble tomb, erected to perpetuate the memories of the different branches of the ancient family of the Bonhams of this county. Yours, etc., J. D.

Eling.

[\%M, Part I., p. 338.]

In your July number Vicarius solicited information on Privy Tithes. I beg to state that at Eling, in the New Forest, Hants, the living is a vicarage, embracing an extent of about 28,000 acres of land, and it is an almost universal practice with the farmers there to pay the vicar a stipulated sum per acre in lieu of his taking the tithes in kind ; this is called settling the Privy Tithe, and each person who so compounds is assessed in the poor-rate book, in addition to the land he occupies, a proporticnate charge according to value for the Privy Tithes, and, if the vicar takes the tithe in kind, he then is assessed to the poor for such Privy Tithe. I am not able to inform your correspondent as to the origin of the term, but it appears in records at Eling of old date. I am not aware of its being in use in any of the adjoining parishes, neither did I ever hear of it elsewhere until noticed by Vicarius. P. Q.

[1865, Fart II., pp. 93, 94.]

Some years ago I visited the church of St. Mary, Eling, Hamp- shire. It consists of a nave with aisles and a chancel with north and

5 -

68 Hampshire.

south chapel?, mostly of the Decorated period. I particularly noticed a Decorated window at the east end of the south chapel, and subsequently found it engraved in Rickman's " Gothic Architecture," edited by Mr. J. H. Paiker. Across the nave was a large beam. There was a south porch, evidently the principal entrance, for the west end of the church almost aliuts on the road cutting through the hill on which the church stands. Opposite this porch, against a pillar, stood a Norman font with semicircular arcadmg. Connected with the church are t«o traditions, one that the founders intended to erect it on Houndsdown Hill, but the materials were removed supernaturally every night to Eling Hill, and the other that the beam, being too short, was miraculously lengthened during the building. Some of my own relations are buried in the north chapel, where their gravestones were visible, and others had been baptized in the font You may imagine that the church had something more than antiquarian interest for me.

Two years ago I heard the church had been restored by Mr. Ferrey, and felt no alarm, thinking it was in the hands of o;:e who would preserve and not destroy objects of interest ; but I was grievously disappointed. 1 found on my visit that the east window of the south chr.pel had disappeared, and a poor copy substituted ; that the font had gone entirely, and a wretched sprawling modern font in what might be called the Norman st> le placed near the west door. The old font and the east window with little expense might have been properly restored. A new south porch of stone, a photograph of which I send you, has been erected, utterly in defiance of the local character of the architecture of the county. It is true that the removal of the pews has been effected, hut the whole of the floor, gravestones included, is covered with Minton's tiles. In fact, the church has a remaikubly neat, fresh appearance, anything but pleasing to the eye of the antiquary.

I may mention that a parishioner informed me that from the large beam a curtain-pole has been made for the vicar's dining-room, and that the roof timbers, supposed to be rotten, were sound when taken down, while the new roof already shows symptoms of decay.

I have thus given you another lamentable instance of so-called re- storation, which you will see is in reality absolute destruction, and it is high time lor all who care for the works of our forefathers to protest against and discourage by all means in their power any restoration which is not essentially conservative and confined to the preservation of the fabric and its accessories, except the removal of such modern excrescences as high pews and other relics of Puritanism. Architects are too fond of leaving the individual impress of their own ideas on our ancient buildings. I am, etc., W. WARWICK KING.

Eling. 69

[1865, Part II., pp. 210-212.]

In the last number of the Gentleman's Magazine there appeared a letter referring to this church, which urgently requires notice ; but, before meeting the charges made by Mr. Warwick King reflecting upon me, I may, I trust, confidently appeal to your knowledge of old buildings on which I have been engaged in support of my assertion, that in no instance have I ever wantonly mutilated or destroyed any architectural object of historic interest, but on the contrary have exercised all the influence I possessed to protect and preserve ancient remains of any kind with which I have had to deal in my pro- fessional capacity. I now come to Mr. King's assertion, and in reply have to observe that the east window of the south aisle of Eling Church could not have been properly restored, or it would have been retained ; it was decayed beyond any power of preservation, and the dangerous condition of the east wall made it absolutely necessary that it should be rebuilt. The new window is not a " poor copy," but a faithful repetition of the original. Nothing would have given me more satisfaction than to have preserved the fragments of the old font, but it was impossible ; fortunately portions of the base were found close by, and the under-side of the bowl, when examined, showed the capitals and sinkings of the four pillars on which it had formerly stood. The '' wretched, sprawling font " is a true represen- tation of the old one, both in form and size, as sketches and measurements in my possession can prove. The statement regarding the roof of the nave is simply an untruth. The walls of the arcade were loaded with rough, heavy beams, unbarked, not joined to the wall-plates, or connected with any other timbers whatever. They were placed most irregularly, and (timber being plentiful in the Forest) I have no doubt they were put as temporary ties, and permitted to remain after their use had ceased. These useless and unsightly timbers were taken down, and the oak pulpit and chancel seats made of their materials ; only a few rafters, completely eaten away by sap-rot, were removed, and others substituted. Beyond these slight renewals every part of the old roof remains, the framing being laid open to view and cleared of whitewash, etc. I took special care that not a piece of timber should be taken out which couid be saved. The roof of the north aisle remains untouched, rough as it i<=, because its condition was tolerably sound. The remark, therefore, that the roof-timbers, supposed to be rotten, " were sound when taken down, while the new roof already shows symptoms of decay," is a gross falsehood. As to the observations upon the architectural character of the new south aisle supplying the place of the previous modern structure, they may be taken for what they are worth.

Now let me describe the condition of the church before the altera- tions. The nave arcade, aisles, and west end were blocked up with the most hideous galleries, filled with seats like rabbit-hutches, and

•jo Hampshire.

of every conceivable shape ; they completely hid the capitals of the arches ; and the south gallery was thrusting out the south wall. The area of the nave and chancel was equally disfigured. These ex- crescences have all been swept away, and the interesting features of the nave arcade, with several beautiful Transitional capitals, brought to view. The noble chancel-arch (formerly cut across by a modern chancel ceiling) is now completely free ; and here I would remark that there can be little doubt that this arch was removed from some larger building (perhaps Beaulieu), and inserted here ; for parts of the moulded jambs are embedded in the walls, and the courses o masonry have no tie with the surrounding work.

On taking down a large modern monument on the north side of the chancel, the respond stones and capitals of the archway (de- stroyed and filled in to receive the monument) were found packed in as walling-stone. These were all replaced in their original places, the base and some portions of the jamb showing from whence they bad been torn away, and an arch corresponding to some existing voussoirs formed, instead of the plaster elliptical abortion of modern times.

By far the most valuable portion of the whole church, however, is the rude Romanesque, arch at the east end of the north aisle of the nave. This probably was a part of the Saxon church ; its simple form and characteristic masonry prove it to be of very early date, and may be taken as a further confirmation of the opinion offered by Mr. Wise in his work upon the " New Forest," that William Rufus was not guilty of the entire destruction of churches tradi- tionally attributed to him ; indeed, many of the neighbouring churches still retain portions of undoubted early work.

On removing some of the earth in front of the communion-steps several interesting memorial brasses were found, which had been rammed in with the rubbish at a former time. These I need not say have been rescued and preserved. If Mr. King, instead of pick- ing up statements from " a parishioner who informed me," had applied to the Vicar for particulars of the late alterations, he would have avoided the misstatements he has made. It is very easy to make random accusations, and wind up with the usual denunciations, but gentlemen should at least be correct in their facts before indulging in such strictures at others' expense.

In building the new aisle to this church no destruction of any ancient work has taken place unnecessarily, but simply the removal of such " modern excrescences as high pews " ; certainly had there been other "relics of Puritanism" they would have been regarded by me with some respect. Mr. King, burning with antiquarian zeal, would doubtless sweep away all traces of the Puritan age in the chapel attached to Littlecote Hall, Langley Church, Long Melford and others, so much for his conservative declaration.

I am, etc., BKXJ. FKRREY, F.S.A.

Eling. 7 1

[1865, PaH II., pp. 494, 49S-]

Mr. Ferrey, in reply to my strictures upon his restoration of Eling Church, begins by appealing to you in support of his assertion that in no instance had he ever wantonly mutilated or destroyed any architectural object of historic interest ; but how far this is borne out by his own statement I will proceed to show. Having known Eling Church for many years, I affirm that it is erroneous to say that the east window of the south chapel was decayed beyond the power of preservation ; and I cannot admit that the necessity for rebuilding the wall affords any additional rea-on for the destruction of the window, an act which I confidently say w,is needless. With respect to the font, does Mr. Ferrey intend to imply that it was actually in fragments ? If so, how could it have been used so recently ? Surely these " fragments " could have been restored, and any missing piect-s replaced by new ones. Again, why was the font moved from its situation, which I showed in my last letter was both original and appropriate ?

To his own sketches and measurements Mr. Ferrey appeals in proof of the new font and window being exact reproductions of the old. Probably his intentions were good ; but I object to the way in which they are carried out, and I adhere to the opinion formerly expressed.

No doubt the contractor may be to blame for this, as he would find it much easier to make a new font and window than to repair the old ones. He would know that if he destroyed the old work there would be no evidence for comparison with the slovenly execu- tion of the new.

Mr. Ferrey's argument amounts to this, that a new copy of an old font or window is quite equal to the original in interest and execu- tion. Imitation of course is possible, reproduction is impossible. You cannot infuse the spirit of the original into the copy. The statue may be an admirable copy of the work of Phidias, but the hand and mind of Phidias are not there, and the critic knows it is not the work of the master. But the distinction between the work of Mr. Ferrey and the original is too broad to be mistaken even by an uneducated eye.

A singular remark must not be passed over. Mr. Ferrey says that timber is plentiful in the Forest : I should have imagined that this would have suggested a wooden porch, but perhaps its construction would have been loo much trouble for the architect to design and the contractor to carry out.

I am glad to find that my informant was in error respecting the roof, and regret having made this a subject of remark.

Mr. Ferrey takes great credit for having brought the church to its present condition, but any builder, for aught I can see, might have done what he did.

72 Hampshire.

I did not defend the galleries or pews, and Mr. Ferrey in his glow- ing description of his work evidently intends to raise a cloud of dust through which he may escape censure.

As to the destruction of the great beam, the fact that an ancient relic is unsightly to modern eyes is no reason why an architect should order its removal, especially when it had a curious traditional legend (whatever its worth) attached to it.

Upon the burial of the gravestones Mr1. Ferrey preserves a judicious silence. He knows that the statement is true, and he knows, too, perhaps, that it is indefensible. Some time ago the Society of Antiquaries proposed the collection of the monumental inscriptions from every church in England, and now, mirabile dictu ! there is a member of its Council who covers them over with a new pavement, thus effectually frustrating the object of the Society of which he is a conspicuous and governing officer. It is questionable whether a faculty for such an act was granted, and, if it were, whether it would stand. The churchwardens may yet be open to legal proceedings consequent upon allowing an architect and F.S.A. to make the floor neat by the interment of sepulchral slabs.

I am, etc., W. WARWICK. KING.

[1865, Part II., p. 538.]

I am glad to find tliat Mr. Warwick King acknowledges his great mistake about the ancient roof of Eling Church ; it certainly is somewhat surprising that so apparently acute an observer, " having knffU'n Eling Church for many years" should not see the difference between an old worm-eaten timber roof and a modern one. Let me assure him that he is equally wrong about the old font : not a particle of "some circular arcading" ever belonged to it. As Mr. King, however, has chosen to tell me that I am not competent to judge of the fitness of old materials to be built up again (after the description I gave of their condition in my former letters), I decline to take any further notice of his remarks, and can only regret that because he has felt annoyed at the concealment (not destruction) of one or two comparatively n:odern gravestones, occasioned by the altered arrange- ment of the seating, he should think it becoming to assail me in the manner he has done. I arn quite content that your readers should form their judgments upon the respective statements, and I have no doubt they will easily perceive with whom "the want of knowledge" principally rests.

I am, etc., BENJAMIN FERREY.

[1865, Pa"t I I., p. 666.]

Had Mr. Ferrey read my letter with attention he would have seen that I did not say I examined the roof.

Mr. Ferrey says that I stated erroneously that the old font had "circular" arcading; my expression was "semicircular" arcading.

Eiing. 73

In your August number he alleges the new font to be "a true repre- sentation of the old one." I send you a full-sized elevation of one side of the new font, and also a sketch, both showing an arcading, by which the correctness of my statement is demonstrated. I said that the gravestones were covered with Minion's tiles, not "destroyed," and to say that this was rendered^ necessary by the new arrangement of the seating is a mere subterfuge. The slabs are not so modern as Mr. Ferrey would have you to believe, and even if they were, his covering them cannot be justified.

I am, etc., W. WARWICK. KING.

Ellingham.

[1828, Fart II., f p. 17, 18.]

The accompanying view of Moyles Court, in the parish of Elling- ham, near Ringwood, in Hampshire (for nearly two centuries the resi- dence of the Lisle family), is taken from a painting done about fifteen years ago, in the lifetime of the late Charles Lisle, Esq. (the last male of that branch), who died in 1818 ; since which the house has been sold to Henry Baring, Esq., of Somerly, the present possessor, who has taken down great part of the building, leaving only sufficient to serve as a habitation for the farmer renting the estate (see Plate II.).

It was here that an event took place, which is recorded in all our histories of James II., namely, the harbouring of two of the adherents of the unfortunate Mcnmouth by one of the Lisle family — Alicia, or Alice, the wife of John Lisle, a severe republican, who sat as one of the judges at the trial of Charles I., and was in such favour with Cromwell as to be promoted to the office of Commissioner of the Great Seal and to a seat in the Upper House of Parliament ; hence the title of lady, or dame, given to his wife. Upon the restoration he went in exile to Switzerland, where he was assassinated in open day ; and, it is said, by, or at the instigation of, some of his own countrymen. The wife, who by no means approved of her husband's political principles, lived in retirement at Moyles Court, where she received Mr. John Hicks, a Nonconformist Minister, and his com- panion, named Nelthorpe. A military party, under the command of a son of the loyal Colonel Penruddocke, having traced these men to Moyles Court, secured them, together with the Lady Lisle. The latter was conducted to Winchester, where she was tried on a charge of high treason before the infamous Judge Jefferies, then on the Western Circuit, holding what was termed the "bloody assize.1' His conduct on this occasion corresponded with his general character.

The proceedings on the trial, which was held on August 27, 1685, afford a shocking display of scurrility and violence, cloaked with a pretended zeal for truth, and hypocritical appeals to the Majesty of

74 Hampshire.

Heaven, delivered in a style of solemn blasphemy. Lady Lisle em- ployed no counsel. Her defence was artless : simply stating the truth of the case, that she had given an asylum to Mr. Hicks* as a persecuted minister, without suspicion of his having been concerned with Monmouth ; and had received Nelthorpe as Hicks's friend, not even knowing his name. She represented the improbability of her risking her own life and the ruin of her family in harbouring known traitors ; and proved that she had always instilled principles of loyalty into her son by his having actually borne arms against Monmouth. Jefferies gave the jury a very partial charge ; notwithstanding which, they were so little satisfied with the evidence as to incline to acquit the prisoner. The judge, enraged, sent them to reconsider the matter ; until at length, intimidated by his ferocity, they returned a verdict of guilty. The next morning sentence was passed that she should be burned in the afternoon. However, at the intercession of some clergymen of Winchester, a few days' reprieve was obtained, and her life was asked of the King by Royalists who had lound in her a friend and well affected to their cause, but in vain ! James told the Earl of Feversham, when he applied to the King, that he had promised Jefferies he would not pardon her. All the mercy that was extended to her was an alteration of the sentence from burning to beheading. On September 2 the venerable victim, then about seventy years old, was brought to the scaffold, where she resigned her life with Christian fortitude. Just before her execution she gave a paper to the Sheriff, expressing her sentiments, in which she declares herself a Protestant, deprecates the return of Popery as a judgment, vindicates her character, forgives her enemies, and prepares to die in the expectation of " pardon and acceptance with God by the im- puted righteousness of Jesus Christ." She was buried in Ellingham churchyard, as appears by the inscription noticed below.

Among the earliest acts of William and Mary was one for annulling and making void the conviction and attainder of this injured lady (granted upon the petition of two of her daughters, Tryphena, the wife of Richard Llo\d, and Bridget, the wife of - - Usher), by which Parliament declared their sense of her wrongs, and made her family all the reparation in their power. It is a most gratifying cir- cumstance to all who venerate the efforts by which our ancestors have made the British Constitution what it is. that this Bill received the Royal Assent on the very same day (May 24, 1689) as the Act of Toleration, a day never to be forgotten in the annals of British freedom. . . .

In the church of Ellingham is a monument, inscribed : " Here lyeth interred the body of Alice Beconsawe, the wyfe of Willm.

* Hicks (or Hickes) is stated to have been brother to George Hickes, Dean of Worcester, and was executed at Glastonbury, according to Echard. Of the fate of Nelthorpe no mention is made.

Ellingham. 75

Beconsawe, of Ibsley, esquire, the sole daughter and heire of Willm. White, of Moyles Court, esquire. She lyved virtuously, and dyed in the fear of God, the 19 July, Ann. D'ni 1622." There is also a head-stone in the churchyard with this inscription : " Here lies Dame Alicia Lisle, and her daughter Ann Hartfall, who dyed the 17 Feb?. 170 — . Alicia Lisle dyed the 2 Sep*. 1685." These are the only memorials existing for these families there.

Yours, etc., C. S. B.

Emsworth.

[1806, Part i.,f. 1099.]

I send you three drawings from fragments of fine Roman pottery, found in the neighbourhood of Emsworth, co. Hants.

Fig. 2 represents part of an elegant bowl, in form and texture equal, if not superior, to modern productions. The annexed inscrip- tion is stamped in the bottom, probably the name of the maker.

Fig. 3, a fragment of an embossed vase, which, when perfect, measured 10 inches diameter at the top. The animal figured in the compartment between the festoons seems to represent a rabbit, or hare, sitting. Perhaps this vessel was sacred to Diana.

Fig. 4 is another fragment of a vessel, about the size of the last.

All these fragments were found about a foot beneath the surface, with an abundance of coarse pottery, shells of oysters, cockles, peri- winkles, etc. ; also a few bones of large animals near the spot. The surrounding strata are in many places black, with evident marks of burning. I. H. E.

Farlington.

[1800, Part II., pp. 729-732.]

The parish of Farlington, so famous in the journals of travellers for including the hill of Portsdown, is situate within a few miles of Ports- mouth, bounded by the several parishes of Bedhampton, Widley, Wimmering, and an arm of the sea on the south called West Harbour, at the entrance of which is placed Cumberland Fort. The parish is in the hundred of Portsdown. ... It contains in the whole about 2,500 acres of arable, meadow, pasture, sheep down, woodland, and about 200 acres of forest and waste lands now remaining un- cultivated. The greatest improvement to this district was that of en- closing from the sea 225 acres. This was owing to the abilities and persevering industry of the late owner, Peter Taylor, Esq. ; but this addition is considered as extra-parochial. There are also 300 acres, a moiety of the purlieu in Bere Forest, which has been from time im- memorial enjoyed by the lords of the manors of Drayton and Wals- worth. The annual value of the parish, ^2,100. The village of Purbrook, together with the heath, at the time of Mr. Taylor's pur- chase, was of little value; it consisted of 75 acres, uncultivated and unhealthy. He employed every means in his power to improve it,

76 Hampshire.

which he at length effected at an enormous expense, having ex- pended, as I am credibly informed, nearly ^100,000. However, this proved beneficial to himself, and improved the country around him. Architecture reared its head, and a universal spirit of improve- ment took place. He built also an elegant mansion, which is uni- versally admired. This house stands at the foot of the down. A short and pleasant walk leads the traveller to its summit, which pre- sents his astonished eye with everything variegated in nature. . . .

On July 26 a large fair is held on the down. I cannot tell when it commenced. On this day. may be seen a large concourse of people, who resort here from every part of the country. It con- tinues three days. The first generally proves a day of business, the second of pleasure, and the chapmen on the third pack up their goods. The late Mr. Taylor once endeavoured to make a passage through this hill with a view of conveying water to supply the town of Portsmouth. Four shafts were sunk ; but the design was not then carried into effect. No doubt the utility of telegraphs suggested the idea of placing one on this hill, which is admirably calculated for the purpose of conveying intelligence. There is a mount on the declivity of the down towards Bedhampton, which has given rise to much con- jecture. It, is known by the name of Bevis's grave. Some suppose it a barrow, others a station of the Romans to convey signals. The manors of Farlington and Drayton, including the whole parish, were formerly in the possession of the priory of Southwick, and I conjec- ture to have belonged to it ever since the twentieth year of Kdward III. It continued in the possession of the monastery till its dissolution, when Henry VIII. by letters-patent, bearing date June 29, in the thirty-second year of his reign, granted the above to William Pownde, Esq., and Elianor his wife, and their heirs, with its rights and royalties, together with the advowson of the rectory of Farlington. These possessions descended to Anthony Pownde, thence to his eldest son, Richard Pownde ; and at length became vested in fee in Mr. Smith, of whom Mr. Taylor, in the year 1764, purchased it, including all the lands of the parish, of the value of ^"1,500 per annum, except three small farms, which were claimed by other persons. The above estate, for sixty years previous to Mr. Taylor's purchase, was in the possession of a distressed mortgagor and receivers under decrees in Chancery, whose sole aim was to raise money by felling of timber, by which means it was open to the encroachments of everyone. By an inquisition taken in the first year of Edward VI.,. it appears that Anthony Pownde died on February 29, seized of the manor of Drayton (among other estates), which he held of the King by grand serjeantry, " ad inveniend' unum homin' custod' orient' port' castr' de Porchest' per xv dies tempore guar' ;" which tenure convinces me the grant was of great antiquity. This manor of Drayton went out of the family of the

Farlington. 77

Powndes by a female branch, and remained thus severed from Far- lington a number of years. In 1703, Mr. Smith, who was previously seized of Farlington (in conjunction with one Clemence), purchased the manor and land of Drayton from the co-heirs of Mr. Richbell and Sir Benjamin Newland, and divided the whole amongst them- selves. The fatal consequences of the Southsea scheme drove Colonel Smith (after mortgaging his manors of Farlington and Dray- ton) to the Continent, and involved him in difficulties which ter- minated only with his life. He is. said to have lived in habits of intimacy with Mr. Norton, of Southwick House, who, in compassion of his distresses, made him many valuable presents, as some report, to the amount of an hundred a year. The ecclesiastical history of the parish remains in great obscurity ; when, or by whom, the present church was founded, I cannot learn. It adjoins the highroad on the bottom of the south side of the hill, and appears to have been built with large flints cased with stone. A gravestone of a knight-templar was some time since, in repairing the church, discovered. This might induce one to believe the church, or the site of it, to be of early date. John de Farlington, in 22 Edward I., and Ralph de Drayton, were both benefactors to the religious in those days ; whether either of them built the present church is a matter of un- certainty. It consists of a single nave, and the chancel, as usually the case, separated from it by a thick, clumsy arch. Mr. Taylor added a light and pleasant seat to the church, which he appropriated to the use of his own family. The following inscriptions are placed in the chancel and nave :

" fflf 50' rharjjtt praj> for itu 0o«Ic of gUitoni) •Potonbr, of JSrajiton, in tht cottuttE of cSontV, taqujcr, tohiclu bm*3]>b tlii xix ban of ^cbruarp, iu the B«rc of our gorbc ©ob'^B €<£££<£ J^el'Ii. <Drt tohosr soule Crist hnbe iiurciji."

" Dedicated to the memory of JANE. EVANS, wife of Peter Evans, clerk, rector of this parish, and six of their children ; who (in sure and certain hope of a joyful resurrection together) were at different times underneath interred, viz. WILLIAM EVANS, June gth, 1746; JOHN, September 9th, 1747; JANE, April 5th, 1749; DAVID, May 2ist, 1753; RICHARD, November loth, 1755; LAURA, Sep- tember 24th, 1759. Jane Evans, their mother, was buried Jan. 26th, 1778, in the 62d year of her age ; a pious chariiable woman. And, likewise, to the memory of the Rev. PETER EVANS, B.D., who was rector of this parish 43 years. He departed this life the I4th day of January, 1781, in the 76th year of his age."

" Sacred tn the memory of JANE TAYLOR, the wife of Peter Taylor, esq., of Purbrook park, who departed this life the 291(1 August, 1770, in the 6ist year of her age. As a grateful tribute to her exalted virtues, this monument is erected by her affectionate husband, anno 1774. Under this stone, and in the same vault v.ith his wife, are deposited the remains of PETER TAYLOR, esq., lord of the manors of Farlington and Drayton, in this county ; of Milton, in Somersetshire ; and patron of this church. He was twice elected to represent the borough of Portsmouth in pailiament. Born at Wells, the nth November, 1714; and died there, the 3d November, 1777, in the 63d year of his age."

7 8 Hampshire.

In the churchyard :

" By the munificence of Peter Taylor, esq., lord of this manor, and patron ol this church, this stone was set up in memory of WILLIAM HOOKER, and MARY, his wife, who lived together in a married state seventy-five years. He was buried here the eighteenth of December, 1755, aged ninety-seven years. She died of the small-pox, and was butied here June the fifteenth, 1757, in the hundredth year of her age."

The payments of this rectory are as follows :

£ s. d. In the King's books ... ... ... 913 4

Yearly tenths ... ... ... ...094

Proc. yearly ... ... ... ... o 10 8

Rectors : Francis Nelson in 1665 ; Peter Evans, B.D., from 1738 to 1781; Roger Cole, M.A., from 1781 to 1788; John Burrow, D.D., from 1788 to the present time.

Patrons : the family of Pownde ; Brereton, gent., in 1689 ;

Thomas Dacre, Esq., 1725; Thomas Smith, Esq., 1742; Peter Taylor, Esq., 1777; Charles William Taylor, Esq., the present patron.

The glebe land belonging to the rectory contains about two acres and a half ; the churchyard half an acre, adjoining which stands the parsonage house, fronting very pleasantly towards the sea. A bene- faction to the parish is recorded in the register in the following words :

"April 23, 1711. — These are to satisfie all it may concern, y* the money given by Mr. Winter, which was the sum of twenty pounds, for the use of the poor widows of the parish of Farlington ; and that the interest of the said twenty pound to be paid and divided among or between the said widows, which receive no benefaction of the parish ; and the money to be kept in the hands of the overseer of the poor or churchwardens of the said parish, and the interest to be disposed no other ways, and for no other intent or purpose ; and the payment of the same to be on Good Friday, under the yew-tree in the church-yard, every year."

Yours, etc., FATHER PAUL.

Faringdon.

[«775,/A '7I-I73-]

Enclosed are some calculations of Dr. Stephen Hales, in his own handwriting. If you think they will afford any entertainment or information, I could wish you would preserve them from oblivion by inserting them in your magazine.

AN ACCOUNT OF SOME OBSERVATIONS ON THE PARISH REGISTRY

OF FARINGDON, NEAR ALTON, HAMPSHIRE. From the year 1720 to 1740, viz., in 20 years, there were baptized 1 80 children, viz., 9 per annum, of which 81 were boys, and 99 girls,

Faringdon. 79

viz., TaT more girls than boys ; wherr as there are usually found to be among mankind about one in 20 more boys than girls ; but, in the preceding 20 years, there were -£% more boys than girls.

And it is observable, that there were but 135 children baptized in the preceding 20 years, viz., from 1700 to 1720, viz., ^th part less, 675 per annum.

And in the preceding 20 years, viz., from 1680 to 1700, there were baptized 103, 5-1 per annum, viz., \.z less than in the following 20 years, from 1700 to 1720.

And from the year 1660 to 1680, 93 were baptized, 4'6 per annum, viz., TV3 less.

And from 1640 to 1660, 141 were baptized, 7 per annum.

And from 1620 to 1640, 139 were baptized, 7 per annum.

And from 1600 to 1620, 160 were baptized, 8 per annum.

And from 1580 to 1600, 117 were baptized, 5-8 per annum.

And from 1560 to 1580, 129 were baptized, 6-45 per annum.

N.B. — The registry begins January 6, 1558, for the baptized.

There are baptized from Lady-day, 1560, to Lady-day, 1740, 1191, J.g per annum; of these 625 are boys, 511 girls, viz., T^TT more boys than girls.

The registry of burials begins about anno 1641, January 2, and there are 5 buried to Lady-day, 1642, from which time to Lady- day, 1740, there are 468 burials, viz., 4-8 per annum.

The above-mentioned 180 that were baptized in the last 20 years are at the rate of 9 in a year.

There were burjed in the same time 103, viz., at the rate of 5-15 per annum, so the increase is yearly 3 '85.

Of the 180 children which were baptized, 16 died within the first year, viz., TlT.2i ar>d 3 in the second year, that is under two years, 8.^Y of the 180.

From 2 to 10 years, 3 more died, viz., ^j.3 of the 103 which died.

From 10 to 20 years 8 died, viz., TV. 8, most of these near 20 years old.

From 20 to 30 years, 12 died, \.^.

From 30 to 40 years, 6 died, viz., TV-i-

From 40 to 50 years, 5 died, viz., ^j-n-

From 50 to 60 years, 6 died, viz., TV-i-

From 60 to 70 years, 31 died, viz., £..,.

From 70 to 80 years, 8 died, viz., T\-.8.

From 80 to 90 years, 3 died, viz., ^f.3.

From 90 to 100 years, 2 died, viz., -yVs-

Hence we see that no less than 44 out of 103 that died in 20 years, lived to be above 60 years of age, viz., \.z of 103. And also, that of these 44, no less than 31 died between 60 and 70 years of age, viz., near \ of them. From the great numbers that die in this period, we see that nature is now declining apace in many, so that

So Hampshire.

those who survive, find only labour and sorrow. This may be looked on as nearly the regular course of nature in this healthy air ; for there are few in this parish who disorder themselves, or impair their health, hy intemperance or debauchery, most of them employing themselves in husbandry, the rest in laborious handicrafts. The women and girls all employ themselves in spinning wool, which requires their constant walking to and fro at the wheel ; in spring and summer, many of them weed the corn, and help to reap or glean.

If we make the estimate another way, viz., from the proportions that are surviving at the beginnings of the several periods above mentioned, then they will stand thus, viz.,

Died the first year, 16, viz., J.4 I 1 Q{ IQ,

Died second year, 3, viz., ^ / 5'4

From 2 to 10 years, 3 died out of the remaining 84, viz., -jV

From 10 to 20 years, 8 died out of the remaining 81, viz., TV-2-

From 20 to 30 years, 12 died out of the remaining 73., viz., £.

From 30 to 40 years, 6 died out of the remaining 61, viz., jVi-

From 40 to 50 years, 5 died out of the remaining 55, viz., ^y.

From 50 to 60 years, 6 died out of the remaining 50, viz., ^. 3.

From 60 to 70 years, 31 died out of the remaining 44, viz., ^.-f^.

From 70 to 80 years, 8 died out of the remaining 13, viz., \.a-

From 80 to 90 years, 3 died out of the remaining 5, viz., ^. 6.

From 90 to 94 years, the remaining 2 died.

The present whole number of inhabitants being 325, these divided by the number that die yearly, viz., 5'i5, the product 6i-3 is the number of years in which a number equal to all those of this parish will die ; whereas in London, a number equal to that of all its in- habitants are found to die in the space of 30 years ; hence they live, one with another, but half so long at London as at Faringdon. But this greater degree of mortality in London falls much among the children, as appears by the weekly bills, that air being unkindly for their tender age.

Freefolk and Laverstoke.

[1789, Part I., pp. 21, 22.]

About the early part of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Richard Andrews, Esq.,* of Fryfolke, died seised of that manor, described by the name of Fryfolke, otherwise South Fryfolke, otherwise Fryfolke Syferwast,t together with the manors of Laverstoke and Chalgrave, all in Hampshire • upon which these estates descended to his three

* Arms of Andrews, of Hants : " Argent a chevron engrailed gules charged with 3 mullets or, between as many quatrefoils, slipped vert." — -Edmondson's " Heraldry," vol. ii. Query, Whether the same?

f Domesday Book says : " Ipse Episcopus " ( Winton. scilicet) " tenet Witcerce." (viz. Whitchurcl), the adjoining parish, a small town lietween Overtoil and Andover> " De isto " (Episc. seib.) "tenet Radulf. fil. Seifride, Frigeiole, etc."- But query? For my notes from Domesday Book were very hastily taken.

Freefolk and Laverstoke. 81

daughters and coheirs, Catharine, the wife of John Powlet, Esq.,* Constance, wife of Richard Lambert, gent., and Ursula, wife of Henry Norris, Esq. Afterwards, on the death of Ursula Norris (her only child Ursula having died single before her), Catharine, then the widow of John Powlet, Esq., and Thomas Lambert, gent., son and heir of Constance and Richard Lambert, then both deceased, became each entitled to a moiety; and soon after, on July 17, 24 Elizabeth, made a partition. Catharine Powlet took the manors of Freefolke and Chalgrave, subject. to a rent of £20 per annum to Lambert, and Lambert (afterwards Sir Thomas Lambert, Knight), took Laverstoke, with the rent-charge of £20 per annum upon Free- folk, etc. From him it descended to his son, Thomas Lambert, Esq.,f whose son, Robert Lambert, Esq., in 1651, conveyed it to John Trot, Esq., who (or whose son John), was afterwards, on October n, 1660, created a baronet. He and his son resided here; and the latter, I have been told, is buried in the church under a handsome monument. His daughter and heir carried this estate in marriage to Sir Hugh Stukely, of Hinton, in this county, Bart., and her daughter and heir (by Sir Hugh) Catharine being married May 20, 1691, to Sir Charles Shuckborough, of Shugborough, in Warwickshire, Bart., conveyed it to him, who died suddenly at Winchester, 1705. From him it went to his son, Sir John, upon whose death, in 1724, it came to his son, Sir Stukeley Shuckburgh, Bart., who sold it to Mr. Dawkins (a West Indian, I believe, and formerly, I think, M.P. for Southampton). He sold this seat, a few ytars since, to Mr. Joseph Portal, of the adjoining parish of Freefolk, before mentioned.

Laverstoke is about a mile west of Overton, on the great turnpike road to Andover. The mansion stands prettily in a valley, by the side of a small stream, with the neat little parish church close in front of it. It is, though not large, a respectable-looking, gable-ended house, in the form of a half " H," and apparently of the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; therefore probably built by the Lamberts, upon the partition of the estates. It has a pleasing appearance from the uniformity of its style, which seems, much to the credit of its owners, never to have been broken by modern alterations or additions. It is now tenanted by General Matthew, Governor of Grenada, who

* John Powlet, Esq., of Herriard, in this county, no doubt, who was descended from Richard Powlet, of that place, third brother to ihe first Marquis of Winton. — See vol. Ivii., p. 1058.

f Upon November 25, 21 Jac. I., he sold the rent-charge for a term of ninety- nine years, to commence fcom November 27, 1624, to Richard Barenger, gent., upon the falling-in of the reversion to Sir Stukely Shuckburgh, then the owner of Laverstoke. He, in 1734, distrained upon Freefolke for rent in arrear, upon which an action was commenced against him ; from the pleadings of which, pub- lished in the " Pleader's A-sistant," p. 463, much of this title is taken. However, Sir Stukely, the defendant, had a verdict, having clearly made out his title.

VOL. XV11. 6

8a Hampshire.

married Lady Jane Bertie, sister to the Duke of Ancaster. Lady Jane, wiih her family, resides here. The arms of General Matthew are : Sable, a stork close argent, within a bordure of the second.

FREEFOLK.

Freefolk, after the partition of the estates, continued in the Powletts till they ended in two coheirs, of whom Anne married John Jervoise, Esq., who in her right became possessed of Herriard in this county, before-mentioned, where his issue of the male line still con- tinues, and Louisa married Sir Thomas Jervoise, of Chilmarsh, county of Salop, Knight, and to him probably was allotted Freefolk ; for I find a Sir Thomas Jervoise, Knight, described to be of Freefolk, leaving issue Richard Jervoise, Esq., who married Frances, daughter and coheiress of Sir George Croke, the excellent judge, who having retired to Waterstock, in Oxfordshire, died there 1641, aged 82. She afterwards married Sir Gijes Hungerford, Knight, who died 1684, aged 70. How long the Jervoises continued in possession of this seat, or who succeeded them, I cannot tell. Mr. Portal, the possessor of a house on the opposite side of the road, and owner of the paper-mills here, purchased this mansion, as well as Laverstock, some years since, and once more united them. He rented this ancient mansion lor some time as a sporting seat, to General Sir John Mordaunt, K.B., who afterwards removed to Bevis Mount, by Southampton, devised to him by the F.arl of Peterborough. After Sir John Mordaunt left Freefolk, Mr. Portal pulled down the house, and laid the gardens, etc., to his own. In the church, I am informed, there are memorials and arms in painted glass of the Powletts.

G. R.

[1789, Part II., p. 621.]

From the Visitation Book of Hants, British Museum, Harleian MSS. 1544, it appears that " Richard Andrews, of Freefolk, married Elizabeth, youngest daughter of John Rogers, by whom he had issue, Richard Andrews, of Freefolk, who married Lucy, daughter of Richard Bray, one of the council to Henry VI. She remarried Roger Walwin. But by her first husband she had issue Richard Andrews, of Freefolk, who by Catherine, daughter of John Walsh, Baron of the Exchequer, was father of the three co-heiresses before-mentioned, p. 22. Constance Lambert, one of them, had issue four younger children, Walter, Michael, Alice, and Barbara, besides Thomas of Laverstoke, the son and heir, who married Margaret, daughter of John Fisher, of Chilton Candover, Hants."

The arms of these Andrewses were : Azure, a chevron, gules, charged with three quatrefoils, between three mullets, sable. Crest, an ass's head sable, charged with a cross. G. R.

Havant, 83

Havant.

[1795, Fart I., pp. 296, 297.]

The little market-town of Havant stands in a delightful situation on the south-eastern border of Hampshire, having the Portsdown Hills on the north, and Langston Harbour on the south ; which is well adapted for a small trade that is carried on here in coal, corn, etc. Trie parish contains, in the whole, about 400 houses, and seems to have been formerly a place of some note, having under it the tithings of Brockhampton, Hayling, and Leigh. There are four streets, agreeing with the cardinal points, of a tolerable good appearance. Its chief ornament is a beautiful Gothic church, which stands in the centre of the place, dedicated to St. Faith, and probably erected in the fourteenth century, consisting of a north and south aisle, chancel, vestry, and a nave or body, extending 95 feet, and a handsome organ has been added to the church, which is now under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Raiss. The only benefactor to this church was the munificent prelate, William of Wykham, Bishop of Winchester; for we find the following bequest in his will : " Item, lego cuilibet ecclesiarum subscriptarum, viz. : Wylteney, Farnham, Cheriton, Havonte, and Burghclere, mei patronatus, unum vestimentum integrum, viz., pro sacerdote, diacono, et sub-diacono, cum papa etiam et uno chalice."

The following inscription is placed upon a large slab in the north aisle :

" 3)ic jactt ^om. TEhomaa 2^)ltuarl> quondam iatina crclrsiar r«tot qut obiit bj° Me nunaia Jlprilia anno JJoimni tmlrssimo TOQIQI^EII. fnjna aninr.r propittttur 5fus> 3^'.ncn- 5om'ne *n 1°" iniaerknroia tonffbe. j)ia ttatia Jj'te jj'b turn jaret hie lapis iatr. Corjma nt ortutur, art mora ft prarnuMtetnr."

On a beautiful monument, the work of P. M. van Celder, repre- senting a female in light vestments clothing an urn with a chaplet of flowers, is written the following :

" Sacred to the memory of Mrs. SELENA NEWI.AND, the wife of Bingham New- land, esq., of this place ; who, with meekness, patience, and resignation, endured a lingering consumption, and died the 3Oth day of January, 1786, aged 31 years." [Rest of inscription omitted.]

In the chancel :

"Near this lieth ISAAC MOODY, gent., of this place, who departed this li*e Nov. the 9th, anno D'ni 1728, in the 55th year of his age. Also, near this, lieth REBECCA, wife of the above Isaac Moody, who departed this life Oct. the 1 3th, anno D'ni 1726, in the 48th year of her age."

" Within the communion rails are deposited the remains of ANNE RENAUD, born Oct. u, 1768, deceased May 16, 1781."

" On the outside of the opposite wall are deposited all that was mortal of JOHN VENTHAM. The immortal part is gone, through the merits of a crucified Redeemer, to join its Great Original. This awful change was on the 23d day of March, 1775, after a life of 29 years.'1

6 — 2

84 Hampshire.

"Juxta sepulli sunt RICARDUS BINGHAM, per 27 annos hujus ecclesis rector dignissimus, et MARIA, ejusdem conjux egregia. Obierunt, hie annis 61 jam completis natali die 28 Augusti, 1764 ; ilia cum annum ageret 78, die 13 Sep- tembris, 1780."

UN ANTIQUAIRE. Hursley.

[1777, Part I., pp. 266, 267.]

Richard Cromwell, eldest son of Oliver, in May, 1649, married Dorothy, daughter of Richard Major, Esq., of Hursley, in the county of Southampton. ... By the inscriptions in Hursley Church it appears he had two sons and seven daughters, of whom one son and three daughters only lived to maturity. Elizabeth was the eldest child; she died unmarried in Bedford Row, April 8, 1731, in her eighty-second year. Anne, the sixth daughter, married Dr. Gibson, and died without issue, December 7, 1727, in her sixty-ninth year, and was buried with her husband in the yard belonging to St. George's Chapel in London. Dorothy, the seventh daughter, married John Mortimer, Esq., of Somersetshire, and died without issue, May 14, 1681, in her twenty-first year. ... As to the sons of Richard, the eldest died an infant ; the youngest, Oliver, reached the forty-ninth year of his age, and died unmarried, May n, 1705. The inscription is rather long, but contains no fact beside what is mentioned above, except the introduction :

"This Monument was erected to the Memory of Elir. Cromwell, the last sur- viving Daughter of Richard Cromwell, and the Account of her Family, given at her Desire by her Executors, Richard and Thomas Cromwell '' (who were de- scendants of Henry Cromwell).

PHILALETHES. Kingsclere.

[1849, Part I., p. 195.]

Divine service was again performed in the church of Kingsclere, that edifice having, since March last, undergone a thorough repair, much of it having been rebuilt. The parish is one of the largest in England, containing more than three thousand inhabitants. The church was a very ancient fabric, built in the form of a cross, with a remarkably large tower, containing six bells, of Norman architecture. The interior contains a nave, two transepts, and a deep chancel. Becoming so dilapidated as to be scarcely safe, it was resolved to take it partly down and rebuild the same after its original plan. To execute this a sum of nearly ^5,000 was required. The nobility and gentry around were appealed to, and the chief portion of that sum was quickly subscribed, viz., Lord Bolton giving j£i,ooo, Duke of Wellington, ^500, Miss Carter, ^500, besides a splendid clock with two faces, the Messrs. Holdings, .£500, several other families each ,£100, besides ^50, ^10, ^5, etc., amounting to at least ^£500, and the parish of Kingsclere raised, by a 6d. rate, ^1,000.

Morestead. 85

Morestead.

[1 805, Part II., p. 793.]

About three miles from Winchester, close by the side of the road leading from that city to Bishop's Waltham, stands the picturesque little church of Morestead, of which the annexed is a south-east view. Not having an opportunity of examining its inside, the monumental inscriptions, if any, must be left for some other of your numerous correspondents.

Yours, etc., WILLIAM HAMPER.

Nateley Scures.

[1836, Part II., pp. 363-366.]

I forward you a drawing, taken in the autumn of last year, of the church of Nateley Scures, Hampshire. The want of a county history will not allow me to avail myself of the labours of abler topographers to illustrate its early history ; but I have little doubt that the merits of the structure will be sufficient to recommend the subject to your readers, and to excuse the paucity of the historical information.

The earliest, and indeed the only account that I can find of this parish is in that valuable record, Domesday Book, in which it is thus particularized :

"In Basingetoch Hd.

"Ipse Hugo [de Port] ten NATALEIE 7 Anchitil de eo . Eduin9 tenuit de rege E 7 quo uoluit ire potuit . To 7 m° se defd p n hid 7 dim Tfa e mi car . In dnio e una 7 dim car 7 v uilii 7 mi bord cu n car . Ibi xi serui 7 moliii de x sor1 7 v . ae p"ti T.R.E. ualb . L . sot 7 post" xxx sot modo LX sot."

It is true there is another place in the neighbourhood bearing a similar name ; but I am inclined to attribute the above extract rather to the present parish than to Upper Nateley, a chapelry to Basing- stoke, to which, in all probability, the prefix of Upper was added to distinguish it from this, the principal village of the name.

The omission of the mention of a church in Domesday is not considered to be conclusive evidence of the manor or parish being without one at the period of the survey ; and from the name of the saint to whom the church is dedicated, a reasonable conjecture may be formed of its Saxon origin, although the present structure cannot claim so high a degree of antiquity.

The parish is situated in the Basingstoke division of the Hundred of Basingstoke. The living is a discharged Rectory, valued in the King's book at ^5 los. rod. The annual value, according to the return to Parliament of livings under ^150 per annum, is ;£ioo. The church is dedicated to St. Swithin, and is in the diocese and archdeaconry of Winchester. It is situated on the Great Western Road, at four miles on this side of Basingstoke, being separated by

86 Hampshire.

a field from the high road. The patron in 1829 was Lord Dorchester. The population, it is rather singular, is returned in the survey in 1825 and the preceding one at the same amount, 245. The church, although small, from its perfect state may be viewed as an interesting example of the ancient village churches of England. The accom- panying plate shows the north-east view of the structure.

In the exterior there is no visible distinction between the nave and the chancel. The plan (Fig. 2) is composed of a parallelogram increased by the addition of a semicircle, and it would appear that the architect has given to his building the proportion of a double cube : the walls of the superstructure are covered with a thick coat of rough cast, which conceals the nature of the materials, and at the same time has had the effect of covering some of the ornaments with which the structure was originally embellished. In other respects the church remains nearly in the same state as it came out of the hands of the architect, having received no material altera- tion upon the first design. The roof rises to an acute ridge and is covered with tiles. On the north side near the west end is a door- way, which is the sole entrance to the church ; and in the semi- circular apsis are three windows situated at the height of 7 feet 10 inches from the ground ; two of these windows, the northern and eastern, are unaltered ; their dimensions are 3 feet 2 inches in height by 8 inches in breadth ; the heads are semicircular, and are destitute of any ornamental moulding, the angles being simply chamfered. The southern window has been enlarged into a mullioned opening of two lights, the compartments being arched, with a single cusp, and may therefore date in the early part of the fourteenth century. Immediately over this window is a solitary relic of a corbel table, which it may be fairly supposed once extended round the church under the eaves of the roof. This fragment, though greatly obscured by the plaster, shows two semicircular arches, and if the covering was removed it is not at all improbable that the whole of the original finish might be brought to light. A second window of three lights has been constructed in the north wall nearly opposite the entrance, the date about the same period as the last-described window ; whether it was an enlargement of an original window or a newly-constructed opening, it is not possible to con- jecture. The western wall has a circular-headed window high up in the gable, differing from the eastern only in dimensions, being 4 feet 4 inches by i foot 2 inches. On the roof is a small cubical turret with a pyramidal roof, all of wood, terminated by a vane ; it is almost unnecessary to add that this appendage, which contains two bells, is modern.

As before observed, the materials of the building cannot be seen, in consequence of the plaster covering, but the appearance of modern brickwork nearly concealed by the earth at the base of the

Nateley Scures.

walls shows that some substantial repairs have been effected in recent times. Upon the whole, the alterations which have been made are so very slight that the church may be fairly said to present one of the most perfect specimens of a Norman village church.

The doorway shown in Fig. 3 of the plate, although on a scale too small to convey an adequate idea of the excellence of its sculpture, and the high state of preservation in which it exists, is formed of Caen stone, and retains in great perfection the original sharpness of the sculptures. The immediate entrance is composed of a trefoil arch, the cusps having torilses affixed to the points, and it springs from the simple impost cornice which forms the finish of the jambs; this arch is enclosed within a semicircle, the architrave of which is embellished with a richly-moulded chevron or zigzag, both on its face and return, and so disposed that when viewed in perspective, lozenge-shaped compartments are formed, having an ornament at the point of junction, which is in some places a torus, in others a mask. Within each compartment is a moulding composed of two cones united at their bases. This enriched semicircular arch springs from a continuation of the impost cornice, and below it are placed columns with grotesque capitals occupying an angular recess formed by a second jamb. The entire composition is enclosed within a highly- enriched weather cornice which still keeps the circular form ; the profile of this cornice shows a square moulding canted on the under- side, the chamfered face having lozenges, the flat or fillet a zigzag ; the lower ends finish in a grotesque serpent-like head and a mask, which is defaced, but apparently a human face is carved upon the keystone.

The capital of the eastern column is a grotesque human figure, of which the legs are not seen, sustaining itself on the hands, as if crouching beneath the weight of the impost ; the western column shows a well carved mermaid, with the usual long hair and expanded fish's tail of this fabled maiden of the ocean.

The base of the eastern column is raised on two square plinths separated by a chamfer, and is composed of a broad conical mould- ing surmounted by a torus. The western column has a base formed of four truncated cones which are united at the top under a circular torus, and at the base form a square, resting on a plinth. The whole is so exactly like a very common capital in contemporary works that it might be taken for one reversed.* The extreme height of this frontispiece is 10 feet 3 inches, the breadth 7 feet 8 inches. In the interior a second arch is formed over the arch of entrance, which is 7 feet 6 inches in height, but the jambs are the same breadth as the doorway.

The interior of the church has undergone more alteration than the

* A similar base in the crypt of York Minster has been shown as a reversed capital.

88 Hampshire.

outside; there is no other distinction at present between the nave and chancel than a single step at the chord of the semicircle ; the ceiling is entirely modern, and horizontal from east to west : a double row of pews on each side a paved aisle occupy the body of the church ; at the west end is a small gallery, and the pulpit and desks, of modern construction, are attached to the north wall ; the floor is tiled.

The few remaining features of the original work are interesting. The windows, as usual in early buildings, are splayed inwards to a considerable extent, the dimensions at the glazing being only 3 feet 2 inches in height by 8 inches in breadth, but spreading towards the interior to 5 feet 5 inches by 3 feet 2 inches. An architrave of squared stones bounds the whole ; it is 5 inches in width, and is ornamented on the soffit with zigzags in low relief, projecting little more than the eighth part of an inch. The western window is splayed from 4 feet 4 inches to 7 feet 9 inches in height, and from i foot 2 inches to 4 feet 6 inches in breadth, and the soffit at the architrave is sculptured with an ornament resembling the diagonal flowers of a later period.

At the south side of the chancel remains the seat for the officiating priest ; it is situated immediately below the enlarged window, the alteration of which, before alluded to, has destroyed the canopy, whatever it may have been. In more extensive structures the seats reach to the number of three, but one priest was probably sufficient for the spiritual guidance of this village.

The font was a circular basin formed of chalk, and constructed for immersion ; the extreme edge worked into a torus was all its orna- ment ; it has, however, not been suffered to retain its situation, having been at some period broken to pieces ; one of the fragments has been used to mend the step at the chancel ; the remainder lie in a heap near the churchyard-gate.

The modern fon', a mean basin, formed apparently of some kind of composition, is oddly placed beneath the communion-table — an instance of economy of space of which Nateley Scures is not a solitary example. There is no monument of antiquity in the church; an unimportant brass tablet of the seventeenth century is fixed against the chancel wall.

A hard and fine kind of stucco is to be met with in many ancient Norman buildings : in this composition the ornaments on the soffits of the windows of the church are worked, and a similar kind of decoration is to be seen on the soffits of the arches in Compton Church, Surrey. The substance is extremely hard, and if not closely inspected, the ornament might be mistaken for sculpture. It is probable this cement was a legacy, derived, with other valuable benefits to the arts, from ancient Rome, and the mode of making it may have been one of the secrets of the Freemasons' Craft.

Nateiey Scures. 89

In the absence of historical evidence of the age of any building, its architecture will in general allow a correct conclusion of the antiquity of the structure to be formed. In no one of the arches in this church is there any indication of the Pointed form, but it is to be observed that the arch of entrance shows one of those fanciful departures from the semicircle which preceded the introduction of the Gothic style. The trefoil arch, of Byzantine growth, in its native soil was a universal favourite, and in the mosques which succeeded the structures of the Greek empire, became as prevalent as the Pointed arch in the West. In this country it made but little way ; at first applied to doorways, and in one instance, and that I believe unique, at Elkstone, it formed a constituent portion of the building, being used as a chancel arch ; it soon sunk into a mere decoration, from whence it never assumed a situation of greater importance.

From these indications, and taking into consideration the very early appearance of Pointed arches in this county, as well as in that part of Surrey which so closely borders on it, as at Compton, Farnham Castle, etc., the age of this church cannot, I think, be dated later than the middle of the reign of Henry I., and the introduction of the trefoil arch in the entrance will not allow of an earlier period being named. In the works of Bishop de Blois, in 1136, which was in the second year of his brother Stephen's reign, we find the Pointed arch used to a great extent. I think therefore that twenty years may not be thought unreasonable to assign as a period in which so great a change was gradually proceeding, and which will bring the age ot this structure to that period in which I have assigned it — the early part of the twelfth century.

I do not think the architecture will warrant an earlier date being assigned ; but as far as any inference can be drawn from the form of the structure, it is probable that those churches which, like the present, terminate at the east end in an apsis, present a fair claim to a high degree of antiquity.

Yours, etc., E. I. C.

Netley.

[1816, Part II., pp. 405-407.]

Netley Abbey has two ways of approach after crossing the ferry at Southampton ; one is on the banks of the river, the other passes through the estate of — Chamberlaine, Esq., but the distances are nearly equal. The first object viewed on arrival by the former is the castle, a small building near the river, bearing marks of antiquity, but not very remote, perhaps not earlier than the reign of Henry VIII. The walls are thick, measuring about 8 feet 6 inches. They inclose a small area or court, the proportions of a double cube. Three small square openings admit light towards the river, and the door of the internal wall was strengthened by a portcullis. At each

go Hampshire.

end is a large square bastion, entered only from the interior by pointed doors. The whole is battlemented and moated. The sequestered ruins of Netley Abbey are seated on the banks of the river Anton (vulgarly called the Southampton Water) about three miles from the ancient town of that name ; and it is rendered an enchanting spot by the addition of delightful woods, which partially obscure its mouldering walls at every point of view. The west front of the church rises dignified above the uneven ground, and from among a beautiful wood of varied trees and shrubs on leaving the castle; the distance is not great, but they are hidden from each other. The elegant sharply pointed window and dismantled walls and buttresses form a fine contrast to the richly tinted surrounding landscape. We gain admission within the walls by some of the dilapidated dwelling buildings, which mostly join the cloisters contiguous to the south side of the abbey church ; immediately entering the quadrangle of the cloisters, now a vacant space, showing only the boundary walls, one of which is the nave of the church, with its early Pointed windows appearing. The exterior of the transept is likewise seen, having windows of corresponding plainness. Southward of the transept, and extending nearly to the extreme of this side of the cloisters, is the chapter-house, between two aisles, that join the transept : one is vaulted with stone, and lighted from the east by two narrow windows, and from the cloisters by one large window, with simple but muti- lated tracery. The corresponding aisle is quite plain. Externally the chapter-house was distinguished by three plain but elegant arches, the centre forming the entrance, and that on each side a window ; but the original has been walled up and the present door broken through one of the windows, to the additional disfigurement of this most elegant room. Its proportions are square, having the same number of arches on every side, and, no doubt, had originally four insulated columns in the centre sustaining the groins of the roof, the springers of which remain connected wiih the walls. Light was chiefly admitted from the east side by two narrow windows and quatrefoil openings. The capitals to all the arches in the chapter- house, and some others, are sculptured in fine Purbeck marble, while the columns, bases, etc., are of fine freestone. Among the heaps of rubbish in this area has grown a most beautifully picturesque ash- tree, whose elegant and tender branches and leaves form the only canopy to the encircling walls ; a similar tree flourishes in the cloisters. Southward of the chapter-house, extending in the line of the cloisters, is a small apartment vaulted with stone ribs, resting on sculptured brackets, which are common in this abbey, and were no doubt adopted in the room of columns, to admit as much space as possible in a church and dwellings of small dimensions. Still more towards the south was the refectory, a handsomely proportioned apart- ment, groined in a similar manner to the chapter-house, and lighted

Netlty. 9 1

from the east side by three different kinds of windows. At the south end still remains the hatch through which the provisions passed from another hatch in the wall of the kitchen, which is situate east and west in regard to the refectory. The intermediate building was perhaps the pantry or buttery, or some culinary office. The exterior of these buildings, the walls of the cloisters, the kitchen, etc., form a handsome group approaching the abbey. From the refectory we pass to the kitchen, which is now not the least interesting object among so many as are here exhibited, and afford gratification to those who differ in opinion from a party leaving the ruins on our entrance, who declared that " they should not have fatigued themselves in walking so far had they expected to see no more than a heap of old ruins." The kitchen is of considerable length, separated into four, divisions by brackets which support stone springers, the groins having been destroyed. The large chimney on the north side is curious and remarkable, and has received no material injury. This building is very ancient, its east window having two narrow lights under a large arch. Against the line of wall formed by the chapter-house, the adjoining aisles and part of the dwelling-buildings— or in the space between the choir of the church and kitchen, extending eastward, and entered by the southern of the aisles connected with the chapter- house— is a large quadrangular area, encompassed with an elevated terrace, great part of whose walls remain, and on the north side they are entire. On the exterior of this (towards the east) are some ancient buildings, of which two stone-vaulted rooms deserve remark, but their original use cannot, perhaps, with precision, be named. The principal of these, extending north and south, is of considerable magnitude ; but the ground has been raised by surrounding destruc- tion, both outside and within. The smaller room, entered by the former, is groined in a similar manner, and lighted by a window at the east end. These buildings have had rooms over them.

Having now generally surveyed the mutilated habitations of the religious Cistercians who once inhabited these walls, I pass round to the west front of the equally decayed and more elegant abbey church, of which we have hitherto said but little. This portion of the build- ing is plain, having no other ornamental feature than a large window; the smaller window of each aisle is lofty and narrow, in two openings, and the centre door perfectly undecorated, which, with other dilapi- dated parts adjoining, is walled up. The interior of the nave, in particular, is so much crowded with large masses of masonry that have fallen from the roof and walls, that a path could not be formed so as to make the original grand entrance the present approach to the ruins ; the advantage of such an alteration, were it practicable, is obvious, and the effect of the whole buildings would be more striking ; whereas you now enter by the transept, thus losing the length, elevations, and beauty of the building in certain points of

92 Hampshire.

view. For the sake of description and regularity I pass up the nave and choir, and regret to notice that the arches and columns separat- ing the aisles are throughout destroyed, and the extreme walls now bound the space. These partake of the same simplicity and char- acter which mark the west front, and the best parts of the habitable buildings. The nave has eight divisions, formed by piers, with triple windows under a large arch in each. The cloisters connecting with the south wall caused the windows of that side to be consider- ably shorter. The north transept is demolished to the remnant of a wall and some part of the foundations, but the south transept is in a very perfect state. Its side aisle, with the stone vaulting, is nearly entire ; and the arches of the sides, the springers of the main root", their mouldings and ornaments, are exquisitely perfect. The four divisions of the choir differ little from those of the nave ; in the south wall is a holy-water niche with a trefoil arch ; and by its side a square recess to contain some decorations of the altar. In the opposite wall is a similar recess. The east window is very elegant, and partially perfect ; but the whole so much covered with ivy that the tracery is scarcely visible through its thick masses. The arch is of great thickness, and subdivided into numerous mouldings, having under it, between arches springing from a central cluster of columns yet remaining entire, a large circle enclosing eight quatrefoil turns, to which are still connected the iron bar for sustaining the glass. The hand of destruction seems to have been held out most unre- lentingly against this elegant little monastery, and it has left but scattered memorials to convey to the admirers of such interesting relics some remembrance of pristine beauty and regularity. Among these fortunate relics may be noticed a portion of each of the roofs over the aisles of the choir, connected with the east wall : three ribs of one division or space, on either side, remain, that to the south side having an ornamented boss ; the opposite has been defaced.

It may be observed that the masonry of the exterior of this abbey, though good and durable, is not altogether of the most finished kind, the walls not being wholly faced with hewn stone. The arches of all the windows, their mullions and tracery, the doors, columns, capitals, buttresses, cornices, groins, bases, all the angles, etc., are of the most perfect finishing in fine yellow and gray stone, and the remnants left appear as new as when first constructed by the mason. . . .

Netley Abbey was founded by Henry III., A.D. 1239, and dedicated to St. Mary and St. Edward. The revenue was estimated at ;£ioo i2s. 8d., or, according to Speed, at £160 25. qd.

Yours, etc., J. C. B.

[1860, Part II., p. 110.]

A correspondent of a local journal (the Hampshire Advertiser] says : " I do not wish to startle the archaeological readers of your

Netley.

93

journal in announcing the discovery of fresco paintings on the walls of Netley Abbey ; yet it is a fact that pieces of coloured ornament are still adhering to the walls, although to decipher them requires a considerable amount of patience, owing to successive coats of white- wash having been passed over their surface, which holds so firmly on to the original ground that it is almost, in many instances, impossible to remove it, whilst damp and mildew have been doing their subtle work, rendering what remains quite rotten or brittle. I have seen sufficient, however, to form a conception as to what the original decoration must have been. In every instance a colour of dark morone, often on a buff ground, is used, shaded off in places to a pale hue, forming patterns of the quaintest description, mostly running in parallel bands about six feet from the ground, the capitals of each pillar being covered by the pigment, so as to blend in with the design. In other places the colour is placed behind columns, which shows white on the dark ground, or it is arranged to give the idea ot large masses of stonework, being like modern paper-hangings ; but this is only used for offices and such-like apartments. . . .

" Whilst on the subject of the abbey, I would draw attention to that portion of the view situated at the end of the cloisters apart from the main building. For what purpose they were used originally I cannot say with any certainty, but in the upper rooms I have found tessellated pavement of the finest description, composing, when perfect, a centre of alternate black and white tiles, with a highly ornamental border, so that these rooms must have been of consider- able importance, judging from what small portions remain, the walls retaining traces of the painted ornaments used for decorating them."

New Forest.

[1786, Part II., p. 753.]

I enclose a drawing (Plate II., Fig. i), which I made in the year 1784, of the monument erected on the spot where, according to steady tradition, William Rufus received his death's wound. It is somewhat extraordinary that the family of Purkess, mentioned in the inscription, still occupy the neighbouring cottages. The drawing is, I assure you, very exact, which is, indeed, its only merit.

Yours, etc., J. P. ANDREWS.

Inscriptions on the Monument :

1. "Here stood the Oak Tree on which an Arrow shot by Sir Walter Tyrrel at a Stag glanc'd and struck King William the 2d surnam'd Rufus in the Breast of which he instantly died on the 2cl Day of August A.D. IIOO."

2. " King William the 2d surnamed Rufus being slain as is before related was laid in a Cart belonging to one Purkess, and drawn from thence to Winchester and buried in the Cathedral Church of that City A.D. 1 143."

3. "That where an Event so memorable had happen'd might not be here- after unknown, this Stone was set up by John Lord Delawar who has seen the Tree growing in this Place."

94 Hampshire.

The height of the stone is 5 feet 10 inches, and each side i foot 10 inches in width.

[1789, Fart //., pp. 707-709.]

Observing your predilection for topographical subjects, I send you some account of a spot which has lately attracted the notice of royalty, but which, though distinguished by the lamentable catastrophe of an English monarch in the last year of the eleventh century and other remarkable circumstances, has never yet sufficiently engaged the attention of antiquaries. I shall begin with transcribing the inscription* on what is called in the New Forest " Rufus's stone," which is a triangular column about five feet high, and crowned with a ball. [Inscription as in last extract.]

The place where this column stands is now called " Canterton," though the historians of the last century uniformly write it " Choring- ham." It is a delightful valley, where the charms of the Forest appear to be concentrated, but which suffer a considerable alloy from the incredible number of flies and other insects that swarm under the spreading oaks and beeches. At the distance of a bow-shot from the column is the cottage of Purkess, a petty farmer, the lineal descendant of the person mentioned in the inscription, who conveyed the royal corpse to this city in his coal-cart. There are others of the same family in the parish, who still follow the occupation of their celebrated ancestor, that of charcoal-making. I have learned from one Richard Pierce, an old man of above the age of fourscore, now an inhabitant of this city, that he remembers his maternal grandfather, who was a Purkess, having in his possession the identical axletree, made of yew, which belonged to the aforesaid cart, but which in a fit of anger, on its falling accidentally upon his toes, he reduced to a bag of charcoal. At the distance of half a mile from Canterton, on the high road to Ringwood, is Stony Cross, the name of which indicates it to have once been a place of devotion, but where no devotion now prevails, except what is paid to the memory of the unfortunate Norman by a club of jovial foresters, who meet at the pleasant inn there situated under the denomination of "Rufus's Knights." At the like distance, forming a triangle with the above- mentioned spots, is Castle Malwood, a place which I have suspected might derive its present name from the accidents that befell the Conqueror's family in its vicinity. Here stood the ancient royal mansion, the vestiges of which still remain, though now it is reduced to the thatched lodge of a keeper. This mansion is ignorantly stated in some of the public prints to have been at Lyndhurst. All the three above-mentioned places stand in the parish of Minsted, concerning which a vulgar error prevails that it derived its name from

* These inscriptions, except what has been added to two of them this year, may be seen in the new edition of Carnden's '' Britannia," i. 131.

New Forest. 95

the king's crying out in the language of the times, " Myne stede, myne stede " — i.e., " my horse, my horse." It is true the king was at that time on foot, and standing with his face to the west, and his hand placed over his eyes to preserve them from the beams of the sun, which was then setting, when he cried out to Tyrrel to dispatch the deer which he had slightly wounded ; but that accurate historian, William of Malmesbury, assures us that he never spoke from the time he was shot, but that, after breaking off part of the arrow that stuck in his body, he instantly fell flat on his face, thereby forcing the remainder of it deeper into his breast. The circumstance mentioned here of the dying monarch's endeavour to pull out the fatal arrow that struck him, points out the meaning of a celebrated passage in Pope, which, I apprehend, is by many not accurately understood :

" Lo ! Rufus, tugging at the deadly dart, Bleeds in the forest like a wounded hart."

But to return to the name of Minsted. What places the opinion I have stated beyond all doubt is that it is called Myndestede, from which the present name is an evident contraction, in Domesday Book, composed by the Conqueror fifteen years before the catastrophe of his son.

Everyone knows that the train of accidents which befell the Conqueror's family in this forest was considered by the nation as the punishment of his injustice and impiety in making it. These accidents were, first, the death of his grandson Henry, the child of his eldest son, Robert, who killed himself by riding against a tree in the New Forest ; secondly, the fate of his second son, Richard, who was there gored to death by a stag he was pursuing, and thus became " at once the chaser and at once the prey "; and, lastly, the lament- able end of his third son, Rufus, as above described. With respect to the last-mentioned, it was remarked that he fell on the site of a church his father had demolished ; that he had certain forewarnings of his approaching fate, and, in consequence of them, that he actually stayed within till he had heated himself at dinner with a more than ordinary quantity of wine ; and that he actually gave to Tyrrel the arrow with which he was shot, telling him, at the same time, he knew how to make a good use of it. But what was considered as the jnost pregnant proof of a Divine interposition in the fate of the unhappy Rufus was what was reported concerning that very oak tree mentioned in the inscription from which the arrow glanced — namely, that it put forth leaves every Christmas Day early in the morning, which leaves withered at the rising of the sun. Gibson, in his edition of Camden, mentions this as a fact, and adds that Charles II. ordered the tree to be surrounded with pales. Many old persons who have seen the tree in question, and, amongst the rest, the octogenarian above-mentioned, vouch for the truth of the above-

96 Hampshire.

mentioned report, and add that a kind of fair used to be kept on Christmas Day in the neighbourhood. Being worn down almost to a stump, it was at length privately burned by one William House out of mere wantonness. This circumstance, however, was not known till after his death, otherwise it was thought he would hardly have been left to die in peace, so highly did the foresters prize this tree, or, rather, the profits it yielded them by the crowds it drew to see it. Perhaps it has been with a view of indemnifying themselves and of keeping up so profitable a trade that the inhabitants have endeavoured to transfer this extraordinary quality to another oak-tree which grows at a place called Cadnam, at the distance of two miles from the former. I have been at great pains to investigate this as well as the preceding matters on the spot, and wherever else information was to be had ; however, all I can learn is that it has many champions as well as many opposers. Those who pretend to be best informed say that the present oak was raised from an acorn of the ancient tree, and that the spot where it stands is the same where the bleeding body of Rufus was overturned into a deep slough as Purkess was conveying it to Winchester, in conformity with what we read in Matthew Paris.

J. MILNER. Portsmouth.

[1816, Part I., pp. 588, 589.]

The Parish Church of Portsmouth, which stands nearly in the centre of the town, is cruciform, and was built in the reign of Henry II. by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, who dedicated it to St. Thomas k Becket, the popular saint at that period. The body of the present church was erected in the year 1693, and the chancel was also considerably beautified and repaired. In 1702 the old tower was pulled down, and the present elegant one erected, not, as it formerly was, at the intersection, but at the grand entrance of the church. A well-toned organ was likewise added in 1718 by subscription.

The following curious benefactions to the church appear to have been given in 1605, 1615 and 1632.

Anno Domini, 1605.

" The righte honourable Lorde Hyghe Admirall of England, the xxvth daye of Jullye dide gyve vnto the poore man's boxe the some of

XXJ.

" Item. Sir Rychard Lawson dide gyve to the poore man's boxe then ye some of \s. viiu/.

"Item. Sir Roberte Whamsell dide then gyve unto the poore man's boxe some vs.

"Item. Sir Sackfielde Treuer dide then gyve unto the poore man's boxe the some vs.

Portsmouth. 97

A.D., 1615.

" Item. Sir John Booline, Governour of Portysmouth, dide gyve at ye bapt'n of hys childe fowe'r hangines to the church : one for ye governor's seat, and one for ye mayor ; one for the pulpit and one for ye comunion tabell ; two of them clothe of golde, and one of them imbrodered in silvire, and one of them red velvett ; theye were opened tys Z4th of August, 1615.

"Item. John Trigger, church warden, and Roger Pricey dide caste ye 4th bell, Ann. Domi. 1632, and a newe bibell, wich coste thirti shillings ; and a newe label clothe for y" communion, wich coste thirteen shillings, 1633."

Behind the communion table is a large, elegant marble monu- ment, erected in 1681, to the memory of the Duke of Buckingham by his sister Susannah, Countess of Denbigh [inscription omitted].

The Duke of Buckingham was stabbed in the High Street of this town — on August 23rd, 1628— by Felton, a lieutenant. The house where the act was committed is r,ow standing, and in the occupation of the Rev. George Cuthbert. Yours, etc., L. ALLEN.

[1790, Part I., p. 493.]

This royal hospital ( Haslar Hospital) is a large edifice for the accom- modation of sick or wounded seamen and marines belonging to the royal navy. It is situated at the west entry into Portsmouth Harbour, on a dry, gravelly soil, within 200 yards of the water, and surrounded with an airing-ground nearly a mile in circumference, enclosed within a wall 12 feet high. On a pediment in the front of the house is a handsome sculpture of Portland stone, with his Majesty's arms con- tained in the centre. In the front, on the green, there is a guard- house for the soldiers who guard the hospital ; and farther to the right is a )arge gate, that carriages may enter. Under his Majesty's coat- of-arms is a hall — 100 feet long and 50 broad — where the recovering patients dine. There is also a ferryman to attend the persons who wish to pass to and from the hospital. This elegant building was begun in 1746, at the earnest recommendation of Lord Sandwich, and finished in 1762 (see Plate I.). Yours, etc., AJAX.

Portswood.

[1862, 1 art /., p. 758.]

A mediaeval key was recently dug up on the site of the Priory of St. Denys, close to the Portswood Station of the South-Western Railway. It is of bronze, about two inches long ; the stem is solid, and tapers towards the end, the wards forming the letter H. The inner periphery of the handle ring projects near the stem, which is characteristic of ancient keys. This key, no doubt, belonged to a small box or secretaire. It is covered with a thin coat of verdigris, which has prevented corrosion. Some door-keys, formerly found

VOL. XVII. 7

98 Hampshire.

among the ruins of St. Denys, being of iron, are much corroded with rust. Mr. Skelton, the architect, who has purchased the ruins, care- fully preserves any objects that may be discovered, but unfortunately a few rusty keys, some fragments of mosaic pavement, and some mutilated stone coffins, are almost all that have as yet been found. The coffins, several years ago, were cleared of the bones of priors and monks, and used as nogs' troughs by a neighbouring farmer.

Ringwood.

[1807, Part II., p. looi.]

The church at Ringwood, county Hants (Plate I., Fig. i), consists of a nave with north and south transepts, and a chancel of large dimensions. It has an interesting and venerable appearance, the churchyard being closely planted with lime-trees, interspersed with yews, whose branches form a complete canopy over the walks leading to the south porch and the chancel door. In the south transept is the monument represented in Fig. 2. It has been plundered of its brasses — containing the effigies of the deceased and his wife, with three shields of arms, and a square plate with an inscription — but it is traditionally ascribed to Richard Line, the founder of the Free School. The chancel has several handsome monuments, chiefly of modern erection, and the remains of a very fine brass of a priest (Fig. 3), on a slab 8£ feet by 4 feet. This has also been despoiled of its inscription and arms ; but in a letter addressed by the learned author of " Sepulchral Monuments " to the late Rev. John Derby, respecting this curious relic, Mr. Derby has written " John Prophete, or Forfette, 1559;" though I believe it is generally considered of earlier date. The figures on the richly ornamented cope appear to be St. Michael, the Virgin and Child, St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Winefrid, St. Catherine, St. Faith and St. George—

is the only one to whom the name is subjoined.

The Free School (Fig. 4) stands in the churchyard, and has now no pretensions of affording classical tuition, though it has some ex- hibitions at one of the Universities. This imperfect account may perhaps remind a clergyman at Ringwood of his promise to com- municate the particulars of its endowments, etc.

Over one of the windows is this inscription :

;' '577- MILLE & QVINGENTOS ' X PO ' QVV • TRANSIIT ' ORBES

NATO • SOL • SEPTE' • & SEPTVAGINTA FVGAX RICHARD' • LINVS • DOCTRINE • FAVTOR • AMANDA

DOCTRINVE • CVPIDIS ' PABVLA • GRATA DEDIT SVMPTIB' & PROPRIIS • SQVALENTIA • TECTA • REKECIT

LITERVLIS • APT' • QVO. I.OCVS ' ESSE ' QVFANT QVO LOC' ' ESSK • QVEANT ' MVSIS ' NC1 ' ESSE ' TENEBRIS

AVTHOR1 • GRATEIS ' GREX ' STVDIOS* ' AGAT."

Yours, etc., WILLIAM HAMPER.,

Romsey. 99

Romsey. [1817, Part I., p. 209.]

The enclosed impression (see Fig. 6) is from a gem found by a husbandman in the vicinity of Rumsey ; it is a very fine and highly polished garnet, the under surface hollowed out. It was set in fine gold, the back quite plain, the rim very neatly chased, in the upper part of which chasing were three small holes, probably to suspend it by a gold chain or thread.

It was in the possession of Mr. Sweeper, a silversmith at Rumsey, who had taken out the stone for the convenience of weighing the gold, who was about to make it into a brooch until I dissuaded him from the design, and urged him to remount it as when found.

The inscription is submitted to the antiquary for explanation, as well as the purpose for which the gem was intended. H.

[1830, Part II., p. 227.]

In your last supplement are observations on Romsey Church, and mention made of the choir; that it is "ceiled and painted with dragons and saints ; the former being the badge of the Tudor family, marks the period of its erection." I beg to observe that the painted ceiling of the communion chancel contains the portcullis, supported on each side by a dragon, repeated at least forty times in compart- ments alternate with the rose, or rather rows of each. On the north and south the ceiling is covered for a little way with representations of saints and martyrs, but greatly obliterated ; likewise, in the middle of these, on each side, the arms of England, surmounted by a crown in one instance, and by a mitre in the other. I am at a loss to account for the portcullis being supported by a dragon on both sides, as I nowhere recollect to have seen the dragon occupying more than one side as a supporter. Should any of your correspondents be able to set me to rights in this particular, I shall of course be thankful.

One of the Corporation seals of Romsey represents a poncullis ; the inscription is " Sigillvm de Romsey infra, 1578." J. L.

[1840, Part If., pp. 138-141.]

During a recent visit to that interesting edifice, the Abbey Church of Romsey, I became acquainted with a remarkable discovery made there a few months ago, which, as for as I can ascertain, presents some features hitherto unprecedented in our sepulchral antiquities, and I therefore request permission to lay them before your readers.

On November 1 7 last, upon the death of the only son of Mr. William Jenvey, the present churchwarden of Roms< y — a gentle- man, I take the liberty to observe, who shows a highly intelligent sense of the curiosity and beauty displayed in the architecture of his church, and a becoming zeal for its due repair and preservation — it was determined to prepare a grave in that part of the south aisle

7—2

i oo Hampshire.

which forms the space next the first arch of the nave immediately upon entering from the transept, as shown in the annexed plan.

When the workmen had proceeded to between the depth of four and five feet, they came upon a large leaden coffin, the head of which was not placed at all in correspondence with the present building, but towards the north-west ; and I was assured that part of the spreading foundation of the contiguous column was placed upon it. This circumstance seems to show that this was an interment made -before the erection of the present church, a structure which some writers have been ready to date back to the century before the Conquest ; but which, from the massive character of its architecture, we must at any rate assign to an early Norman period. Mr. Brit'on, in his " Architectural Antiquities," vol. v., which contains several plates of Romsey Church, attributes its erection to the early part of the twelfth century.

The coffin is formed of sheet-lead, about \ of an inch thick ; it is made from three pieces, which are overlapped and welded together without soldering. The lid was formed in like manner, and put on like the lid of a pasteboard box, but secured by iron nails to an inner coffin, or lining of oak. The length of the coffin is 5 feet, and its height 15 inches. The head is somewhat wider than the foot ; the former measuring 18 inches and the latter 13 inches. It weighed from \\ to 2 cwt.

It is well known that the most customary mode of interring persons of rank and wealth in our ancient churches was in coffins of stone. * Yet it appears that lead coffins were occasionally used in all ages. They were sometimes employed by the Romans; and three or four decidedly Roman examples have been found in this country. The notices which Mr. (lough collected of leaden coffins will be seen in the Introduction to his "Sepulchral Monuments," pp. 39-44, and in his second Introduction, vol. ii., p. 62, et seq. Among them there are several instances of leaden coffins inclosed within wooden cases ; but I have not perceived one of a leaden coffin with a wooden lining, which is the peculiarity that appears to have contributed to the extra- ordinary results exhibited in the present case.

That lead was occasionally used for coffins in the Saxon times (to which there is ground to believe this interment may be assigned), is shown by the recorded statement that Eadburga, Abbess of Repton (in the lead district of Derbyshire), who died in 714, sent as a present to St. Guthlac, duelling in Lincolnshire, a leaden coffin, sarcophagum plitmbeum ; and St. Dunstan, who died in 988, was interred at Canterbury in two cases of lead, enclosed in a third of oak, which also was covered with lead, confined by nails and iron bands.

* Mr. Bloxim remarks that stone coffins were "chiefly used for the interment of the upper classes from the eleventh to the fourteenth century, after which they were generally, though gradually, superseded by coffins of lead." — " Glimpse at Monumental Architecture," etc., p. 55.

Romsey. \ o i

But the interior covering of the corpse, whether the coffin was of stone, lead, or wood, was generally either an untanned hide or leather. Leland says that when the tomb of Fair Rosamond at Godstow was opened in his time, it was found that "her bones were closin in lede, and withyn that the bones were closid in lether." A long series of similar instances is collected by Gough ; but in no case does he mention a wooden lining to the coffin.

Within these wrappers of skins, or the vestments of silk, woollen, or linen which have been found in ancient coffins when opened, the skeletons have generally appeared nearly complete in their several parts ; the larger bones, at least, have seldom been wanting. One remarkable circumstance in the present instance is, that the whole of the bones were reduced to a very trifling quantity of dust. The only exception consisted of two small pieces, which, on being placed in the sill of an adjoining window, very shortly crumbled away.

In the ancient stone coffins, one or more holes are generally found perforating the bottom, through which the liquid, generated during the decomposition of the body, might be drained away. In the present case there were no holes at the bottom of the coffin, but the whole body, including the bones, must have been submitted to one action of decay ; the moisture generated must have been imbibed by the oaken boards, and from them evaporated through the crevices of the upper part of the coffin. The oak itself is, for the greater part, very sound and compact ; it was described to me as the " spine," or very heart, and the " shingles," or smooth parts of the grain, are perfect and visible. In some places it is injured by having been pierced by iron nails from the lid, which have perished by rust, and induced a decay in the wood. But the greater part of it has retained the sound qualities of timber felled in the winter (which was the ancient practice), and it appears rather shrivelled and consolidated than decayed by age. The only trace of the human body which has perished upon it is a slight black incrustation. The oaken pillow upon which the head of the corpse rested was also remarkably sound.

We now come to notice that portion of the human remains which is still in perfect preservation — a preservation as extraordinary as the total disappearance of the other parts of the body. This is the head of hair, with its long plaited tail, of which a representation is given in the upper part of the plate. The whole of this hair is in perfect existence and shape, matted together like a peruke newly sent out from a wig-maker's. Even the very roots of the hairs are apparent, whilst the only discernible remains of the skull are in the form of a slight white powdering. The general colour is a bright brown.*

The durable quality of hair is generally known ; but probably no

* Mr. Gough remarks : " It hns been supposed to be the nature of hair to acquire a yellowish hue in the grave," and he gives instances, vol. i., p. Ixxxii.

IO2 Hampshire.

more striking instance than the present was ever observed of its perfect preservation accompanying the total decay of other parts of the body.

In one of the barrows in Greenwich Park, opened in 1784 by the Rev. James Douglas, he found, only nine inches from the surface, a braid of human hair, which is represented in the twenty-second plate of his " Naenia Britannica." "The braid was tenacious and very distinct ; and the hair itself, which was of an auburn colour, con- tained its natural phlogiston." It was accompanied by some remains of cloth, both of woollen and linen. These remains, and those found in adjoining barrows, were attributed by Mr. Douglas to the fifth and the beginning of the sixth century. The same author also mentions that, " There is now deposited in the Vatican a skull with hair, which, by the braid and the ornaments upon it, appears to have been of a female, and to have been interred 1,400 years. It was found not far from the Tiber, near Rome."

The present very remarkable relic is preserved by the sexton of Romsey, together with a portion of the pillow, as shown in our sketch, deposited in a very neat glass case. The leaden coffin is also pre- served within an enclosure formed by iron railing in the apsis of the south aisle of this very curious Norman church. There I hope it will safely remain. I regret that the wooden lining was not kept entire within it ; that, however, has been cut into pieces, and by the courtesy of the churchwarden a portion of it was presented to me to bring to London.

Yours, etc., J. G. N.

[1 841, Part I., pp. 189, 190.]

Another disinterment of an ancient coffin has taken place in this church, and although by no means so remarkable as that which was described in our last volume, it may be right to put the particulars on record, particularly as a very erroneous account (confused with the former discovery) has appeared in a local paper. Whilst a grave was opening near the north transept door for the interment of Mr. Tyler in November last, at the depth of only 15 inches underground the digger came to a stone coffin covered with a stone lid. The latter was 5 inches thick, and furnished with iron rings ; but the stone was so fragile that it broke into several pieces upon removal. The coffin was rabbeted to receive the cover by means of side stones elevated to the thickness of the lid. It was 7 feet long in the clear. The larger bones of the corpse were perfect, but the head quite decayed, and very few portions of it left. A medical gentleman who saw the remains pronounced them to be those of a female ; and from their having been deposited within the church, it may be presumed that they were either those of an abbess, or of some member of the con- ventual community of a superior grade and dignity.

Ramsey. 103

[1842, Part I., pp. 493-496-]

About the year 1801, the late Dr. John Latham (who was much better skilled in natural history than archaeology, though sincerely attached to the latter study), residing at Romsey, exerted himself very laudably in clearing from whitewash some of the sculptured Norman capitals in the church. On one of them he found represented a slaughter-field, upon which two fighting kings are apparently arrested by the interference of angels. On another there are three several designs ; first, a king seated is presented by an angel with an inverted chevron, on which is this inscription : ROBER x T mE feci*. (I follow the minuscule characters, which are remarkable.) Next, succeeds a king bearing in his hand a spiral cone. Thirdly, are two seated figures, holding between them another inverted chevron, in the centre of which is a grotesque face, and it is inscribed, RobERt TVTE coNfvlE x ds. One of these figures appears to be winged.

Upon these carvings and inscriptions, which are engraved in the fourteenth volume of Archieologia, PI. XXXVI., Dr. Latham modestly forbore to offer any conjecture to the Society of Anti- quaries ; but he privately communicated to Sir Henry C. Englefield a suggestion, " that the Robert named in the inscriptions was Robert, Earl of Gloucester, the constant and formidable opponent of King Stephen, and that the battle represented on one of the capitals was the battle of Stockbridge, fought in the neighbourhood of Romsey."* To this hypothesis Sir Henry Englefield opposed some very grave objections, and then presented his own theory, that " Robert, the eldest son of William the Conqueror, fought and unhorsed his father, whom he only recognised at the moment when he was about to slay him. . . . The arrest of the son's hand by this fortunate recognition might not inaptly have been figured by the interposition of angels ; and the son, as Duke, might wear a crown not unlike his father's."!

A few years after, another gentleman named Latham, the late William Latham, Esq., F.R.S. and F.S.A., of Quenby Hall, Leicester- shire, essayed another interpretation. The two kings in the battle- field become King Alfred and Guthrum the Dane, fighting at the battle of Ethandune ; and when their contest is arrested by the angels, the Dane is supposed to be consenting to embrace the Christian faith, and Alfred, the personage on the left hand, is in the act of taking hold of his beard, which signified a promise on the part of Alfred to become his sponsor.$

The figures on the other pillar are supposed by the same writer § to represent : i. King Edward, the founder of the church, to whom an angel is offering the plan of the building ; 2. King Edgar, offering a pyramid, " the appropriate and common emblem of a founder of a religious house "; and 3. The head of the builder, designated by the

* Anhaologia, vol. xiv., p. 141. t Ibid., p. 142.

t Itid., vol. xv., p. 309. § Ibid., p. 307.

IO4 Hampshire.

inscription to be '• the consul or warden for the year of that set or company of masons who planned and built this monastery."* This last very interesting and curious information (were it but true !) is arrived at by the following interpretation of the inscription — an inter- pretation scarcely surpassed in any of the most erudite elucidations of Greek or Roman monuments :

" ROBERT[us] TVTE[larius] CONSVL[aris] C [Centuria] X [decima] d [domum] S [struxit]."

Now, Mr. Urban, I must confess myself no implicit believer in the " mysteries of masonry "; on the contrary, I have frequently found that the true explanations of devices and designs which have been magnified into something of great importance, are, after all, the simplest that could be imagined. And such I think is the case in the present matter, at least, so far as the second capital is concerned.

As for the former capital, representing the battle, I have no other remark to make, but that the present church of Romsey is supposed by modern architectural critics to have been erected not long before the year i2oo.t Such is the opinion expressed in the "Oxford Glossary of Architecture," and in the pleasing little work which has originated these remarks. We are therefore free, in respect of dates, to adopt any one of the explanations suggested in the Archaologia, though no sufficient reason is assigned why either of the events referred to should have been represented in Romsey Church.

That sculptured reliefs and capitals are very frequently allusive to founders, may at once be admitted. They also sometimes represent historical occurrences, but not very often, except it be those of holy writ. And here we may advert to the circumstance, that John Carter had drawn some of the capitals at Romsey, in the year 1781, before the whitewash was removed, and engraved them in Plate XXIV. of his "Ancient Sculpture and Painting." He imagined that the subjects now under consideration were musical, and took both the inverted chevrons for "harps." The seated king was David with a harp to himself, and the two other seated personages were playing on " one large harp." On this idea nothing more need be said ; but i: may be remarked that there seem better grounds for supposing that the

* Mr. Spence (" Essay on Romsey," p. 33) has misappropriated the theories. He assigns to Dr. instead of Mr. Latham that of " the architect "; while he adopts, and advances as on his own part, Dr. Latham's original idea of Robert Consul of Gloucester.

t The ' Oxford Glossary " (iii. 27) fixes the architecture of Romsey church circa 1180-1200, remarking that "a great part of this church is of Transition character, but parts are quite Early English." Mr. Brilton, indeed, has twice given his opinion that it was erected a century earlier, "either in the latter part of the eleventh or in the beginning of the twelfth century " (" Architectural Antiquities," vol. v., p. 222, and note to new edition of Carter's " Ancient Sculpture and Painting," 1838, p. 26), but I suspect by an inadvertency of expression.

Romsey. 105

subjects of two other capitals at Romsey are Scriptural, as Samson and the Lion (instead of "St. George and the Dragon " with Carter), and another, which Carter himself explained to be " Balaam and his Ass."

To leave, however, both the field of battle and the field of con- jecture, I have now to offer a very obvious explanation of the second capital, and which will be best recommended by its simplicity :

1. The seated king is probably the Saxon founder of the church, Edgar. The chevron, so ponderous in proportion to the persons, exactly represents the figure of the high-pitched roofs of ancient churches, and it is acknowledged to have been an emblem of building generally. Gwillim says :

"This ordinary is resembled to a pair of barge-couples or rafters, such as carpenters do set on the highest part of the house, for bearing of the roof thereof, and betokeneth the atchieving of some business of moment, or the finishing of some chargeable and memorable work."

Viewed in another light, the figure may still be an emblem of architecture, as from its rectangular shape it may be supposed to be a gigantic specimen of the instrument called the square.

The angel, then, or the genius of architecture, is offering to the attention of the royal founder the pious work of church building.

2. In the second subject, the king, who has now become with zeal the nursing father of the church, is marching as it were in triumph, bearing the spire in his hands, as is seen in so many instances of a later date.

3. The third subject represents the works of the church in progress. Two carpenters (somewhat indolently, to be sure, for they are seated on their benches), are moving another rafter, and above is seen the head of Master Robert, a gentleman who is evidently a good deal in their way. And now, who was this Robert? Was he Robert Consul or Earl of Gloucester, as Dr. Latham proposed ? or Robert, son of the Conqueror, as Sir Henry Englefield suggested ? or Robert, " the tutelary consul " of the masons, according to the ingenious and refined hypothesis of Mr. W. Latham ? Extravagant as the last con- jecture appears (and, indeed, as a reading of the inscription nothing could be more absurd), it is still the nearest to the truth. He was clearly the same Robert as is named in the first inscription —

"ROBERTUS ME FECIT."

There might possibly be some room for discussion as to the character of the person who indited this inscription. Whether some officer of the church claimed the honour of recording his name, or the architect, or, finally, the individual sculptor. On the whole, considering the grotesque character of the work and its un- obtrusive situation, merely in the midst of a sculptured capital, over one of the pillars of the south aisle or ambulatory, it seems most

1 06 Hampshire.

probable that the sculptor was only immortalizing, and jesting with, himself. In the first inscription he simply recorded his workman- ship, as painters and sculptors occasionally please to do ; and then, having thus placed an inscription on one of the chevrons, he be- thought himself how he should inscribe the other. It occurred to him that he might commemorate himself further by adding his portrait ; and, though little skilled in portraiture, he could at least " make a face "; perhaps he had had some practice at the rural and truly Anglo-Saxon game of grinning through a horse-collar. So he carved "a large grotesque head, full-faced, the mouth wide open, showing the teeth and tongue, and eyes full and staring ; in short " (as Dr. Latham, whose particulars I am quoting, justly describes) '• a very ugly and disgusting figure"; and then, perfectly satisfied, no doubt, with his performance, he again recorded his name upon the chevron in a sentence supposed to be proceeding from the mouths of the workmen into whose path he was wandering —

" ROBERTE, TUTE CONSULE."

The letters TVTE were, by all the sage antiquaries to whom I have referred, read as one word, and Mr. Spence is the first who has thought proper to divide them, whether accidentally or intentionally does not appear. The division suggested to me, I must confess, the interpretation I was about to offer, viz., that tu te consule implied, Take care of yourself ! But though the verb consulo, when signifying to consult, takes an accusative case, I can find no authority for such a phrase as tu te consule. We must, therefore, suppose the words still to be tute consule, a kind of impressive pleonasm. After the word CONSVLE occurs a little cross, to which I am not inclined to attach any meaning, as another is placed in the middle of ROBERT in the first inscription. Then come some letters resembling dS, upon which I can offer only a conjecture that they may have been intended for g's, and that for a contraction of qucesumus, when the meaning of the whole will be :

" ROBERT, TAKE VERY GREAT CARE, WE BEG."

That this familiar and jocose interpretation is not far from correct is supported by the similar character of another inscription, probably from the hands of one of the same " Company of Masons," on the exterior of the church. Near the door at the south-western end of the nave (says Mr. Spence), " on a buttress, and at some height from the ground, is a kind of corbel, resembling an emaciated head, and, cut in the stone wall beneath, the following singular inscription :

"RICARD: CASE: SEMEMASE.".

"What" (adds Mr. Spence) "its signification may be it is now impossible to determine ; whether it has been the freak of some

Romsey, \ 07

workmen to caricature a brother labourer, or whether its import was intended to be of greater moment, will, in all probability, never be decided."

I have been favoured with another reading, which is as follows :

"RICARD: DASE : SETTE : MASK."

Now, this I take to be English in its language, and the carving, like the former, to be rather a good-natured exhibition of the sculptor himself, than a caricature upon others. The difficulty in reading the inscription lies with the letters MASE, which certainly rhyme with BASE. This name may probably have been pronounced Daisey ; and, if so, the whole may mean —

" Here Richard Dasl Set you may see."

Yours, etc., H.

[1862, Part If., pp. 208, 209.]

You, of course, know Romsey Abbey Church, but those of your readers who have not visited it, and yet are acquainted with its merits and interest by means of books, articles, and prints, would hardly conceive the unworthy state in which it is kept. A ludicrous and yet offensive corporation-pew, a closely-packed block of pews in the nave, two ugly galleries in the transept, a miserable but cumbrous pulpit overtopping a roomy reading-desk, and a nondescript piece of carpentry, called by courtesy an inner porch, deform this noble building. The exterior is in a lamentable state of decay : the ground rises upwards of two feet against the walls, iron stack-pipes disfigure the apsidal chapel of the transept, which has lost its conical roof, while a corresponding chapel on the north side is a receptacle for parish engines, ladders, and all kinds of rubbish. A long shed for ladders, some feet in height, has been built along the side of the choir, and neglect has left the southern portion of the yard a mass of tall weeds.

Now, the Romsey tradespeople complain of want of custom, the hotel keepers lament the dearth of visitors, and the deserted market- place and doleful-looking streets confirm their statements. May I suggest that if a public subscription were set on foot to continue Mr. Ferrey's restorations, and place the Abbey Church in a condition equal to the requirements of the present times, by sweeping away the excrescences and barbarisms inflicted upon the building by ignorant custodians, and renewing what has been decayed, the money would be well bestowed ? Romsey has only one attraction, and this is now perverted into a disgrace to both the town and county.

I am, etc., A HAMPSHIRE MAN.

1 08 Hampsh ire.

Southampton.

[1809, Part //., pp. 1200, 1201.]

One of your correspondents some time since requested an account of the situation of the castle lately erected at Southampton by the [late] Marquis of Lansdowne, who considered it a delightful residence during the summer months. It is built with brick, covered with a white composition. Southampton Castle is situated in the High Street, nearly opposite to All Saints' Church, on the site of an insignificant tower, remarkable for its antiquity. The round tower and upper apartments command a fine view of Southampton estuary, the river Itchen, and the adjacent country ; but it has no ground, and the base is entirely blocked up with small houses belonging to the poorer inhabitants, and it is with difficulty that any door of entrance can be discovered ; it seems a type of its noble owner's heart, and, though not fortified, bids defiance to all who would approach, whether friend or stranger. His lordship's chief delight is in driving four foresters, whose size not much exceeds that of the Newfoundland dog. When I recollect the virtues and shining talents of the old Lord Shelburne, a contrast forcibly strikes me, and I cannot help exclaiming with Agamemnon, in his speech to Diomed, " Gods, how the son degen'rates from the sire !"

A LATE VISITANT OF SOUTHAMPTON. Southwick.

[1807, Part I., p. 325.]

Not far from Portsmouth, in Hampshire, stands Southwick, here tofore a venerable mansion, but, if I am rightly informed, now con- verted into a modern dwelling. At this place King Henry VI., was married to Margaret of Anjou. It was formerly the seat of the Nortons, the last of whom, by will, left an immense property " to the poor, the hungry, thirsty, naked, and strangers, sick and wounded, and prisoners, to the end of the world." He appointed Parliament his executors, and in case of its refusal the Bishops. This singular bequest carried such marks of insanity, that it was soon after set aside, and the domains reverted to the nearest heir.*

Yours, etc., RUSTICUS.

Stockbridge.

[1783, Part I I., p. 709.]

At Stockbridge some men digging near Haughton river found a large piece of lead with some emblematical figures and an inscription, by which it is supposed to have been buried near 1,000 years.

[1865, Part I., p. 763.]

You will doubtless assist me in calling attention to a needless demolition of an ancient church in Hampshire.

* See Shaw's " Tour in the West of England."

Stockbridge. iog

The parish church of Stockbridge is a building of the latter part of the thirteenth century, to which date belong a good plain tower, the side pillars and arches of the nave, the south wall of the aisle, and two good windows with plate tracery. The building was repaired and enlarged about the middle of the fourteenth century, when the eastern bay of the south aisle was rebuilt some three feet wider than before, and carried through as a chancel aisle as far as the east end of the chancel. At the same time fresh windows were inserted throughout the church ; among them a good east window with reticulated tracery. All the side windows are square-headed ; a fashion which might be noticed in the interesting old chancel of the neighbouring church of Nether Wallop, which chancel was pulled down in 1845, and rebuilt in a vulgar Perpendicular style. The east window of the north aisle is worthy of remark, being very widely splayed inside, and having a niche for a figure in each splay. In the pier close by this window the old rood-loft stairs remain. A curious little niche over the eastern pillar on the north side of the nave is another feature which would never be reproduced in the threatened modern church.

The roofs of the church have all their ancient timbers of the fourteenth century, many of them well moulded. The rafters are all hid by later lath and plaster.

Perhaps these few notes may help to call the attention of some ot the neighbouring clergy and gentry to this interesting church. It has hitherto been little noticed, being in a very retired part of the county. Perhaps the opening of the new railway from Andover to Redbridge may bring a few antiquarian visitors to it, who may exert themselves to save it. But its days are, I fear, numbered. I hear thet a new church is to be built in another part of the town, and the old one to be demolished. At a vestry meeting at which this was resolved on, only one voice was raised in behalf of the repair of the old church. Nor is this to be wondered at, when builders' and bricklayers' interests have to be consulted, and when Italian and German architecture is fast pushing out our valuable old English models ; which, if Ruskinism and " restoration " go on as they have done of late, will in another generation be as scarce as Druidical temples. I am, etc., WILLIAM GREY.

Stoneham.

[1797, Part II., p. 574.]

I could wish some of your Hampshire correspondents would favour you with some account of Stoneham, and its successive lords. In the new "Collections for Hampshire," reviewed in p. 44, it is said to be, 1740, the seat of Sir Seymour Pile, Bart., who has been dead at least forty years, and could not have held it in right of his wife, because the estate reverted to the Flemings on the widow of

no Hampshire,

the late Colonel F., by whom she had no issue, marrying to her second husband the late Sir S. P. In Kimber's " Baronetage," 1771, vol. i., p. 330, Sir S. P. is said to have died 1761, leaving by Jane, only daughter of John Lawford, of Stapleton, county Gloucester, Esq. (who* died 1726), one son, Sir S. and one daughter. This son, the then present baronet, is stated to be a minor in 1771 ; which is impossible, for he was married to Mrs. Fl. and dead, and she too, it is believed, before 1756. The Pile family were originally of Berks, but by marriage removed into Wilts, and settled at Axford Park, in that county, where Kimber leaves them, though afterwards they were at Somerley, in Hants, near Christchurch, where, it is believed, the later branches were buried. But on this subject, and on the last baronet and his marriage, or marriages, information is requested ; also the monumental inscriptions, if any, at Axford and Somerley.

A grandson of the celebrated antiquary, Browne Willis (quer), by which of his sons, Thomas or Henry ?) took the name of Fleming, and, it is believed, is the present possessor of Stoneham.

Yours, etc., D. H.

Tichborne.

[1810, Part I., pp. 305, 306.]

The village of Tichborne is situate about six miles from Winchester, and two from Alresford, and gives name to a very ancient family, still resident there. The present baronet has recently taken down the old mansion, and erected a new one. The church stands on the crown of a hill, and is a conspicuous object through the surrounding country. It is an ancient edifice of flint, consisting of a nave and side aisles, divided by Pointed arches, with a chancel, and having at the west end a brick tower, with pinnacles, erected 1703, containing six bells. The font is circular, plain, and plastered over. Stairs, formerly leading to the rood-loft, remain within a pillar, on the south side of the nave. In one of the quatrefoils of the chancel-window is a whole-length of St. Andrew, in stained glass, and in another, the remains of a flowered ornament. In the chancel are also a piscina (plastered up) and a locker ; corbels for images on each side the east window ; an old coffin-shaped slab, face downward ; and some glazed tiles.

On a slab in the nave :

" Here lyeth interred the body of Thomas King, gent., many years Steward and Clerk of the Lands of the Bishoprick of Winchester, who departed this life the $th day of March, in the year of our Lord 174!, in the 5 1st year of his age."

Arms : Sable, a lion rampant ducally crowned between three cross crosslets argent impaling or. Crest : out of a ducal coronet or, a demi ostrich argent, wings endorsed. Motto : " Legitime certanti."

The north aisle, if we may believe Sir Benjamin Tichborne's

* This " who " must refer to his father.

Tichborne. 1 1 1

monument, was erected in the reign of Henry I. by Sir Robert Tichborne, Knight. It contains the following sepulchral memorials. On a brass, upon a slab :

" Jh« habem'eg of the etmlt of 3lnne Utithebotn*, one of the bottghters of »obt SSthgtt of (Sathintr borne, esqttjtr, late topf* of ^luh'as "Cuthtbotnt of ^Ijthtbomt, sont of John ^gthebornt, brotfur anb heir* of S&tU'm, ))' rliirst sonc of the saib Jlohn ; tohicht Anne bcp'tcb lltia luorlbc the xxiiij bag of ffebruarg, the sere of 0* lorb Jfrtt.^c. <£!«£.

Two small plates of arms : first, vaire a chief or ; second, a chevron between three . . . (birds).

On a mural monument, with the effigies of a child reclining on a cushion :

" HEERE LYETH RICHARD TICHBORNE, Ye SONNE OF Sr RICHARD TICHBORNE, KNIGHT, AND DAME SUSAN HIS WIFE, ONE OF Y" DAUGHTERS AND COHEIRES OF WILLIAM WALLF.R, ESQ. WHOE DEPARTED THIS LIFE Ye FIVETH DAY OF MARCH, 1619, AFTER HE HAD LIVF.D ONE YEARE, SIX MONETHES, AND TOO DAIES."

Arms : Vaire, a chief or, impaling . . . between two bendlets.

A large marble monument, with recumbent figures of the parties deceased, and the figures of four sons and three daughters kneeling on the sides of the monument Under an arch, beneath a pediment, supported by two Corinthian pillars, with arms, etc., is the following inscription in capitals. [Inscription omitted.]

The helmet still remains over this monument.

In the window of this aisle are the remains of a saint in stained glass. Beneath is the original altar-table of oak, with " I. H. S." and crosses carved on it On each side are corbels for images, and on the right hand a piscina. WILLIAM HAMPER.

Tytherley.

[1805, Part I., p. 409.]

Fig. 6 is copied from a board which is placed over the gallery in the church at Tytherley in Hants. I could not learn from any of the inhabitants of the village when or why it was placed there. Some of your numerous readers may, perhaps, be able to explain the use of it. A. P.

Upham.

[1829, Part /., pp. 217, 218.]

I offer for insertion in your pages the accompanying view of the birthplace of Dr. Young, whose works have placed him in the first rank of genius among our English poets. . . . The sketch of the old parsonage where this eminent writer first drew his breath may also be the more interesting as the house no longer exists; since, having become ruinous, it was a few years ago taken down and rebuilt on the same spot by the present estimable rector, the Rev. J. Haygarth. The window in the gable (in the front of the drawing) was that of

112 Hampshire.

the room in which the poet was born. The late elegant scholar and critic, Dr. Joseph Warton, was formerly Rector of Upham, and during his incumbency he caused the event to be commemorated' by a tablet suspended in the apartment, and bearing this inscription : " In hoc cubiculo natus erat eximius ille Poeta Edvardus Young, 1 68 1." This tablet, a twofold relic of departed genius, is still preserved in the new house. . . .

Two or three years ago a series of ancient paintings was discovered on the north wall of Upham Church. I was informed that these paintings were of the rudest description, and very imperfect. What they were or what they represented I cannot say, as the merciless whitewash brush obliterated them before I was informed of the discovery. Similar figures, but I suspect much more perfect and curious, were not long before brought to light in the ancient and curious Church of East Meon (engraved in the Gentleman's Magazine, 1819).* These, too, shared the same fate, and are irretrievably lost to the eye of the antiquary. An inscription on the north side of the chancel records the death of a former rector, of distinguished worth of character, a genuine " country parson " of the Herbert school. It is as follows :

"Near this place lye the remains of the Reverend John White, M.A., Rector of this Church, who being endued with every grace requisite to adorn his sacred office, and having apply'd himself constantly to the good of his people, dy'd universally lamented by them, and by all persons who knew him, June 22, 1738, aged fifty-five."

I have mentioned in my former account the burial of the wife of Father Schmidt in this church. Her epitaph runs thus :

" Here lyes Anne, wife of Mr. Bernard Smith, of London, one of His Majesty's servants, and chief of all that this nation has known in the art of making organs.t She died Sept. gth, 1689, aged 63 years."

I flatter myself that these particulars relating to times which are past, and names which still live, will not be altogether uninteresting to your numerous readers. C. W.

Upton Grey.

[1796, Part I., ff. 15, 16.]

The parish of Upton Grey is situated in the Hundred of Bar- manspit, in the county of Hants. The nearest market towns are Odiham and Basingstoke. From the latter it is distant about five

* Ante, p. 63.

t A specimen of the skill of this admirable artist exists in the organ of the neighbouring church of Waltham. The instrument is a small one, having been originally a chamber organ ; but the tone, particularly of the diapasons and principal, is equal to anything I have ever heard, and much resembles that of the corresponding stops in the fine organs of Father Schmidt's building, in London, Oxford, and Cambridge. The pipes are all of wood, and the instrument is in pood preservation and condition.

Upton Grey.

miles, of very bad road, unless the traveller is allowed to pass through Hackwood Park, an indulgence which has been rarely denied, as the other road is very unsafe for a carriage ; yet, through the caprice of the gate-keeper, a serious accident had nearly happened to two ladies lately and to one not long ago from a refusal. This is meant as a hint to the worthy owner, the Right Hon. Mr. Orde Powlett, who is no doubt ignorant of the circumstances. To return to the subject after this digression. Upton Grey affords little that is interesting to the antiquary. It probably derives its latter name from some former owner. The soil is chalky, the land chiefly arable, there being only a few acres of meadow. In the parish are several copyhold estates. The manor of Upton Grey belongs to Adolphus Meetkirke, Esq., to whom it came by marriage with Miss Skinner, who had it by devise from Mrs. Opie, a name formerly of considerable note in the parish. The principal proprietors besides Mr. Meetkirke are Mr. Talk, of Salisbury, and Mr. Leech, an eminent farmer.

Hoddington is a hamlet, in which John Linibery, Esq., has a seat with pleasant walks. He has here a small manor.

The church, which is rectorial, is rather a mean structure, double- bodied (a modern part having been added by the family of Limbery), with a tower, chancel, and porch.

There are no brasses in this church, nor any monuments of much antiquity, the oldest in the chancel being that of Lady Dorothy Eyre. It is a mural monument of marble, with her effigies and the arms of her connections, Eyre, Bulstrodf, Clyffe, etc. The inscription runs thus. [Omitted.]

There are some other verses on the same lady on a tablet, but, not being remarkable for their goodness, are omitted here.

In the chancel are also buried :

"Mrs. Eliz. Evelyn, wife of Sidney Evelyn, Esq., 8 March, 1762. Her sister, Miss Mary Hill, Aug., 1752. Sidney Evelyn, Esq., 19 Jan., 1782, set. 63."

In the body of the church, near the pulpit, is a mural monument of alabaster thus inscribed :

"MS. Johannis Mathew Armigeri qui Hoddingtoni ex antiqua prosapia natus et apud Oxonienses in Coll. Wadham, per septem annos studiorum cursum peregit, in honorabilidehinc Greyensium Societate Legum Angliae municipalium studio et professioni se addixit in qua Sparta ornanda optimus cliemum Advocatus et cer- tissimum in dubijs Legum Oraculum merito audivit. Ob. A. .Ktatis su;v 57. Christi 1687."

Arms : A lion rampant crowned. No colours expressed.

There is in the church another monument for Barbara, relict of Richard Opie, Gent., and only daughter of Malechy Dudeney, late of this place, Gent She died October 20, 1697, set. fifty, leaving three sons, Nicholas, Thomas, and John, and a daughter, Barbary ; also the body of Thomas Opie aforesaid, who was a linen-draper in London, and died March 19, 1700, set. twenty-two.

VOL. XVII. 8

114 Hampshire.

Arms of Opie : Sable, on a chevron between three garbs or three pellets.

Arms of Dudeney : Argent, a bend cotised ermine.

The only monument besides worth noticing is that to the memory of a very worthy character, still remembered with respect by many of the inhabitants, James King, Esq., who died August 15, 1766. . . . [Inscription omitted.]

The best house in Upton Grey, now inhabited by — — Beaufoy, Esq., belonged to Mr. King, and was devised by him to Mr. Leech.

The manor-house of Upton Grey is near to the church, and is now only a farmhouse.

The rectory of Upton Grey is in the patronage of Queen's College, Oxford ; it is worth about £200 per annum. The present incumbent, is the Rev. Mr. Atkinson, who does not reside here, but at another living in the county.

Warblington.

[1795, Fart 11., pp. 638-640.!

The parochial church of Warblington is situated about two furlongs from the sea-coast, and adjoining to the parish of Havant, in the county of Hants. A traveller, on viewing the exterior part of this building, would not form any favourable notion of the beauty and regularity of its inside, which is very conspicuous on entering it. The received opinion of its being founded by two pious maiden sisters I look upon as entirely fabulous, as a survey of its materials, which correspond with the style or the architecture of a neighbouring castle, tempts me to believe this edifice, as well as the castle, was erected by the same powerful baron some time in the age of Henry VII., and probably out of gratitude for completing so stupendous a work. The church is divided into a chancel and a nave, which is separated from two side aisles by four Gothic arches, supported on one side by low round pillars, usually termed Saxon, and on the other by a mixture of the Gothic and Saracenic. At the end of the north aisle there appears undoubted testimony of its being used as an oratory ; the windows of which, being decorated with painted glass in an unusual style of elegance, favours the conjecture ; and at the end of the other, under a very handsome and curious arch, seems to have been deposited the remains of the founder; and above it, the frail memorial of a mutilated image, the inscription, if any, being long since worn away by the initials of names carved on it by every idle and illiterate clown. With the assistance of a lantern I discovered the following inscription on three small bells, which probably some of your ingenious correspondents might be able to decipher : ")).iu,o.r.t.iii0,n0li>,3Vto,i9i,U>i,t»)3."

As ihis living was under the patronage of a distinguished family for many years, I have here added a list of the rectors which I found

Warblington. i \ 5

inserted in the Parish Registers. The first we find any account of is Ralph Smallpage, obiit 6° die Mali, 1558. After a space of eighty years, John Harrison was inducted 1646, Richard Bereton 1690, Vincent Bradston 1721, Samuel Dogard 1740, John Slaughter 1752, Samuel Torrent 1764, William Norris 1789, by whose kind assistance I have been enabled to collect with certainty the above particulars.

This living is valued in the King's books at ^19 95. 4^1!. ; tenths, ;£i i8s. 4|d. ; probably dedicated to St. Thomas, as the fair of this parish is held on the eve of that day, and situated in the diocese of Winchester.

In the chancel there are the remains of a tessellated pavement, as well as several stone coffin-lids bearing the arms of the Knights Templars ; and, even with the pavement, the following monumental inscriptions, viz :

" Here lyeth interred the body of RICHARD COTTON*, of Bedh.impton and \Varb- lington, esq., son of George Cotton, esq., and Elizabeth, daughter of Sir George Symonds, and husband to Elizabeth, daughter of the Honourable John Lumley, esq., and sister to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Lumlev, of Siansted, now Earle of Scarbarg, who piously departed this life the 2Oth March, anno Domini 1695. Maritumamantissimus, patrum genero.-,issimus,omniUisjustissimus."

" Here lyeth FRANCIS COTTON, son unto Richard Cotton, of \Varblington, am! unto Elizabeth, his wife, who was daughter unto John Lumley, son unto the Lord Lumley, of Stansted, who departed Uiis life the 251)1 September, 1687, cetatis su:e I2°."

" In memory of Capt. NICHOLAS HARMAN, who departed this life, May 2710, 1776 ; many years commander in the Jamaica trade."

On a brass plate affixed to the south wall, with the figure of a person praying, neatly engraved :

"Before this monument lyeth buried the bodye of RAFKF. SMAI.PAC.E, late chapl* to the Righte Honorable the Earle of Southampton, lorde chavncelor of Englande, and parson of this church. Obiit 6 die Maij, a" U'ni 1558. O, prayes the Lord !"

In the south aisle :

" Under this lyeth the body of THOMAS, son of Thomas and Ann Sone, who departed this life Feb. the l8th, 1767, aged 33 years."

Adjoining to the above :

" Under this lyeth the body of THOMAS SONE, who died June the igth, anno D'ni 1763, in the 641)1 year of his age. Near this lyeth ANN, wife of the above Thomas Sone, who died Sept. the 6th, anno D'ni 1750, in the 4Qth year of her age. Also lyeth ANN, daughter of the above Thomas and Ann Sone, who died Nov. the 8th, anno D'ni 1753, in the iSth year of her age."

Length of the church, 108 feet.

The descendants of John Belton are s'.ill resident in the same parish, but conditioned to the necessity of day-labour.

The following epitaph on Dr. Johnson is the production of a young gentleman (eminent for his literary abilities) whilst at Winchester College :

"Johnson, farewell ! by Heaven's high will design'd To mend the heart, and humanize the mind ;

8—2

1 6 Hampshire.

Whose moral page all servile acts disowns, Nor fears the courtier's or the critick's frowns. Farewell, blest shade ! to such great merits true, Angelic forms thy grave with laurels strew, Fair Science there her constant vigils keeps, And o'er her much-lov'd son in silence weeps."

[1810, Part I., p. 105.]

The enclosed drawing of Warblington Church (Plate I.) is much at your service. The outside appearance of this edifice promises but little ; but the inside is very uniform and handsome, and, having been lately new pewed and repaired, is inferior to few country parish churches in point of neatness and comfort.

An account of this church was some years since drawn up by a friend of mine, and inserted in your vol. Ixv., p. 639.

A farther account of it, drawn up by me, is published in the second volume of the " Hampshire Repository."

Yours, etc., W. NORRIS.

Wherwell.

[1799, Part ll.,p. 1034.]

During a short residence at Winchester, having purchased an abstract of Mr. Milner's History and Survey of that ancient city, I observed in the last page but one the following paragraph :

" At Wherwell, on the road to Andover, is the seat of Joshua Ire- monger, Esq. This was once a celebrated Benedictine abbey, founded by the beautiful Elfrida, in which she long resided the model of a true penitent."

This naturally attracted my attention ; for the smallest fragment of a mutilated religious building or ruinated castle has long been the object of my veneration.

Induced by this paragraph, the ensuing day I visited this ancient spot ; but, to my utter disappointment, discovered that no vestiges of " the ivy-mantled " walls of the monastery now detain the way- worn traveller. The gardener, however, conducted me to a fruit- wall opposite the house, where I discovered the following inscrip- tion :

" Anno Domini, 1649. Here was the monastery of Wherwell, erected by Queene Ethelred, demolished by the over-acted zeal or avarice of King Henry ; and of its last ruins here buried there yet remains this monument."

This stone, I understand, was originally placed in the ruins of the monastery ; but the owner, having levelled these small remains of antiquity, judiciously fixed it in its present situation.

When these walls were raised, in levelling a tump or tumulus near them, were discovered several chalk coffins, images, a key of curious shape, a large spur with the rowel inverted, and likewise a cross. The two latter from neglect are for ever buried in oblivion ; but,

Winchester. 1 1 7

having procured a view of the key, I have enclosed a draught of it

(Fig 4).

There seems to be some little difficulty in reconciling the name Ethelred for Elfrida, for she is never styled in history by that name. This I do not, however, imagine detracts from the authority of the stone.

To Harewood, in Yorkshire, is erroneously attributed by many the unfortunate but merited catastrophe of Earl Athelwold ; but the authority of William of Malmesbury, Dugdale, and many others, evinces the erroneousness of their assertion. Those who are not thoroughly satisfied with this account may consult Dugdale's " Monast. Angl.," vol. i., p. 256, ed. 1655.

Winchester.

[1865, Part If., pp. 208-210.]

In this wonderful age of church building Winchester has done its quota. The parish of St. Thomas has a handsome new church, more suitable both in size and beauty to the population and im- portance of the parish. The Church of St. Miurice has been rebuilt ; a district church has been erected in the parish of St. Miry Kalendar, and another in the parish of St. Faith, and the erection of a third is in contemplation. This affords a m irked contrast to the state of the city a little more than two hundred years ago, when the mayor, bailiffs, and commonalty petitioned that it might be formed into two parishes, accompanied by an intimation that the two Parliamentary ministers were amply sufficient for the religious wants of the inhabitants :

" By the Commissioners for Plundered Ministers, October it), 1652.

" Upon consideracion had of the Petition of the Mayor, Bayliffs, and Commonalty of the Citty of Winchester, in the County of Southampton, thereby alleadging that there are within the said Citty the severall parish churches of Clements, Thomas, Swithins Kings- gate, Lawrence, Calender, Maurice & Peteers Colebrooke,* divers or most of which Churches are very ruinous and fallen much into decay, and that the same have stood void and destitute of Ministers for divers years now past ; And the sayd parishes are soe small that they may fitly be reduced into two parishes ; It is therefore ordered that the parish Churches of Calendar, Maurice, & Peeler's Cole- brook aforesaid be united, and that the parishioners and Inhabitants of the said severall parishes doe resort unto the said Church of Maurice for publique Worship, and that the severall other parishes of Clement, Thomas, Lawrence, and Swithins Kingsgate be also united, and that the respective parishioners and inhabitants thereof doe

* A contemporary hand his written upon the margin of this document: " What ! the lilack Saints on earlhe unsaimed those glorious saints in heaven !"

1 8 Hampshire.

resort unto the Parish Church of Thomas aforesaid for publique Worship. And that the two Ministers placed in the said Citty by authority of Parliament doe officiate and preach the gospell to the Inhabitants of the said Citty in the aforesaid Churches of Thomas & Mauricf, unless good causes shalbe shewen to the contrary before this Committee on the second day of December next, whereof notice is to be given to the Inhabitants of the sayd respective parishes in the publique places of meeting in the sayd Citty. And it is further ordered that the Mayor and Commonalty of the sayd Citty doe make enquiry what goods, chattels, and materials, are belonging to the sayd severall parish churches, and make retorne therof to this committee by the said day. " JOH. DOVE,

" JOHN BARKER, "JA. NELTHORPE."

The next document certifies the result :

" By the Committee for Plundered Ministers, December f)th, 1652.

" Wheras this Committee the 291)1 of October last, ordered that the severall churches of Calender, Maurice, and Peelers Colebrooke within the Citty of Winchester should be united, and that the several! Churches of Clements, Thomas, Lawrence, and Swithins Kingsgate, should be also united, and that the respective Inhabitants, parishioners of the said parishes, should resort unto the Churches of Maurice and Thomas for publique worship, and that the two Ministers placed in the said citty by authority of Parliament should officiate and preach the Gospell to the inhabitants of the said Citty within the said churches of Maurice and Thomas, unless good cause should be shewen to the contrary before this committee on the second day of December instant, And noe cause hath beene as yett shewen to the contrary, although it appeareth that the sayd Order was duly published in the said Citty ; It is therefore Ordered that the sayd former order as to the sayd Union be confirmed, and that the sayd Churches be united according to the purport and tenure thereof, and that the aforesayd Ministers doe officiate and preach the gospell diligently to the Inhabitants of the sayd Citty within the sayd Churches of Maurice and Thomas, and receive and enjoy the tithes, rents, duties, and profitts whatsoever of or belonging to the sayd respective churches till further Order shalbe taken in the premisses, and all person and persons are required to give all due obedience hereunto accordingly. And it is furthered Ordered that the Mayor and Aldermen of the said Citty doe secure the goods, chattells, and materialls of or belonging to the sayd severall Churches till further Ordered therein, and to be disposed according as they shall receive further direction. • " THO. LISTER,

"GlLBT. MlLLINGTON,

"JO. GOODWYN, " WILL. HAY."

Winchester. \ i g

These documents are of some interest in connection with a curious and rare tract, entitled, "A Vindication of the City of Winchester against the Mis-Representations and Aspersions cast upon them in a late Printed Paper. By way of Petition and Articles directed to the Right Honourable the House of Peers, in the Business of the Churches of that Cicy. Seriously commended to be thoroughly read and perused by all to who.n the Printed Paper hath or shall come." By a Friend to the city of Winchester. London : Printed in the year 1660.

In speaking of the parish church of St. Swithun's, Kingsgate :

" How ruinous it was, and for the quality of it and place of its standing, how unfit for a congregation of the city to meet in, is well known to all that know anything of the state of it : but to dispatch at once all that concerns this church, which the Corporation arc- charged to let to one Robert Allen, his wife delivered of children at one end thereof, and a hogsty made of the other."

Some of the other churches are described as being untiled and without roofs ; grass, nettles, and weeds growing in them. The church of St. Mary Kalendar :

" A ghastly sight of two ruinous walls, lying open for butchers to empty thi-rein the bellies of their killed beasts, and persons of ail sorts to lay their excrements, as to become little other than a Jakes."

It also mentions that the Church of St. Clement's was made a hogsty, and that the bones of the dead were thrown about the street. I am, etc., FRANCIS JOSEPH BAIGENT.

[1797, Parti., p. 397-]

In digging for flints last week to pave the court of the King's house in this city, which is now turned into commodious and elegant barracks, the workmen struck upon a stone doorway, which led into a large chamber built of flints and Portland stone, plastered over, and heretofore groined, the fluted corbels and springing of the arches being perfect. There is a passage from the same, which seems to lead into the castle ditch, or more probably into a way which was separated from the ditch by a parapet wall. There is also a part of a stone staircase, which led out of the said chamber into the upper parts of the tower, or perhaps into the main body of the building. The tower in question was evidently one of the four which flanked the keep of this castle before the same was taken and dismantled by Oliver Cromwell, who was as great a destroyer of castles as his pre- decessor, Thomas Cromwell, was of monasteries. There was a fifth tower to this keep of rather a different figure from the rest, which formed the gateway of the same.

In a work on the antiquities of Winchester, which at present occupies my whole leisure time, and which I hope will in a very

1 20 Hampshire.

short time be presented to the public, I propose to give a sketch of the keep in question, with the other parts of the castle, as they existed in ancient times, as likewise the king's palace here, as it was intended to have been completed by Sir Christopher Wren, had not the unexpected death of Charles II. put a stop to that magnificent work, and with it to all the hopes of Winchester's rising to its former greatness. Should the present undertaking of clearing out the ruins of the castle be continued, it is obvious how advantageous the same must prove to my present researches. J. M.

[1797, rare II., p. 545.]

The researches amongst the ruins of the ancient castle in this city having been continued under the direction of Captain Cartwright, my opinion is fully confirmed of the chamber, which I described to you, having been the inside of one of the towers which flanked the keep or dungeon of the said castle. Being perfectly cleared out, it appears in an oval form, 16 feet in length, intersected at the end adjoining to the main body of the building by a straight wall of 1 2 feet. There are six ornamented corbels in perfect preservation, with the butmentsof as many springers, which supported the vaulting of the chamber in question, and which admitted a height in it of about 8 feet. At the distance of about 6 feet from the bottom of the tower are holes in the walls, which admitted the timber of the flooring to the said chamber, to which depth the stone steps, men- tioned in my last, conduct. This lower apartment could have been nothing but a cellar or a prison. The walls of the tower, which are circular on the outside as well as within, are 9 feet thick; but, having been robbed of their casing of large polished stones, must originally have been at least 10 feet thick. Pieces of cannon-ball have been found among the ruins, which seem to argue that this castle, during its last siege, made a more gallant defence under Lord Ogle than we have generally imagined ; as likewise two large iron wedges much used, which have evidently been employed in disjoint- ing the stones when the same were wanted for building the adjoining King's house.

The tower which has been explored is that to the north-east. At present the workmen are employed in tracing out the south-east towir; which, like the former, appears to have been circular and nearly of the same dimensions. The ascertaining of these points are of some importance to my intended publication. What, however, appears to promise the richest store of information is a large square mass at the north-west point of the keep, from which enormous piles, weighing some hundred of tons, have been cast by the all- conquering power of confined gunpowder, whilst the lower part seems to have been less injured than any other part of this renowned ancient fortress and palace. J. M.

Winchester. 1 2 r

[1797, Part II., pp. 637,638.]

Since the date of my last the researches at the ancient castle in this city have been discontinued. In fact it was clear that nothing more existed there to be sought after. We were disappointed in our expectations of finding chambers in the other towers similar to that which we discovered in the tower to the north-east. In the mean- time the form and dimensions of the said towers, and of the castle in general, are ascertained for the information of the curious ; and the public service has gained a quantity of wrought stones and an extent of level ground which have more than repaid the expense of the undertaking.

When the digging at the castle ceased, certain tombs in the cathedral were explored, but with that respect which was due to the venerable dead, and which became the informed and polished minds of the learned antiquaries who undertook the researches.

The first sepulchre that was opened is one which has generally been conceived to belong to our patron St. Swithin. In this nothing was found but the remains of a human body in its natural position, with the mouldering coffin in which it had been buried, some black cloth in which the same had been wrapped, and the remains of boots which had covered the legs. In short it was plain that St. Swithin did not rest in that grave, which probably belonged to one of the priors of the cathedral. The second tomb explored on this occa- sion was that which is vulgarly called " King Lucius's." The state of the bones here proved that the same had been disturbed at some former period ; and the silk, still entire in it, is an additional argu- ment against the absurd notion of this having been occupied by the first Christian King. The third sepulchre opened was called "Fox's." This opinion, which is contrary to historic records, was demonstra- tively confuted, in consequence of the said grave being found per- fectly empty.

J. MILNER.

[1798, Part II., pp. 1033, 1034.]

In the " History of the Civil and Ecclesiastical Survey of the Antiquities of Winchester," by the Rev. J. Milner, whose glowing pen has of late so often animated your instructive pages, are the following observations on Mr. West's painting of the Raising of Lazarus, over the communion-table in the choir of that cathedral. . . . With my best wishes for the success of a work which does honour to the nation, I am

Yours, etc., J. C.

"Advancing towards the sanctuary, or chancel, the first object that is usually pointed out to us is the celebrated altar-picture by West, representing our Lord raising Lazarus from the dead. Hereto- fore pious pictures of every kind, as well as statues, were removed

1 2 2 Hampshire.

out of churches and destroyed, as tending to superstition and idolatry ; but now the use and advantage of them, for informing and exciting the minds of the people, as well as for the decoration of the churches themselves, is admitted ; by which means a ^reat source of support and encouragement is opened to our historical painters. Notwithstanding this, it has happened, for causes which it is not necessary here to explain, that our national artists have not succeeded so well on Scriptural subjects as on most others. The picture before us is considered as a masterpiece of modern painting ; but when have modern painters been found equal to a religious subject ? When has a Reynolds or a West been able to animate their saints, and still less the Lord of saints, with that supernatural cast of features, with that ray of Promethean light which a Raphael and a Rubens have borrowed from heaven itself wherewith to inspire them ? The Apostles here are mere ordinary men, or at most thoughtful philosophers, or like elegant courtiers studious of their attitudes ; the devout sisters, in the presence of their beloved Master, are remarkable for nothing but their beauty and their sorrow. Christ Himself, who in the work of Rubens on this subject treads the air, and, with uplifted hands and glowing features, animates us as well as Lazarus with new life, appears more like a physician prescribing a medicine for the recovery of his patient than the great Messiah, who is working an astonishing miracle for the conversion of a nation. If any one will maintain that this tranquil character is more suitable to our Lord on this occasion than one of greater feeling and admira- tion, we beg leave to oppose to him the inspired history of the event, ' Jesus groaned in spirit, and was troubled ; He wept, and He cried with a loud voice, Lazarus, come forth.'* Whatever may be said in commendation of the inferior characters, as the Pharisees, the multitude, and of Lazarus himself, we willingly subscribe to."

[1864, Part II., p. 27.]

By the unanimous vote of the Town Council, on Thursday last (May 5), it was decided to do all that possibly can be done towards the preservation of the city muniments, making them virtually accessible to the antiquary and historian. Mr. Francis Joseph Baigent, of Winchester, an antiquary of acknowledged ability and deeply versed in ancient records, has undertaken the task of arrang- ing and sorting this vast mass of archives, the accumulation of nearly six centuries — a work of much labour and no little difficu'ty. Mr. Baigent's well-known anxiety for the preservation of ancient records alone could have prompted him to venture upon such a task, the accomplishment of which will reflect much credit upon the city. — Hampshire Chronicle.

* St. John xx. 33.

Winchester. 123

[1830, Part 1., p. 204.]

Your reviewer speaks of the ancient hall at Winchester Castle as being divMed by pillirs and arches, and Mr. Buckler asserts the same in his clever essay on Eltham Palace. That the building now used as a hall is so divided, is certain ; but I must question whether the present is the original destination of the structure. It has every appearance of a chapel ; a supposition which is confirmed by its being situated according to the ecclesiastical arrangement ; and, until some evidence is adduced to show that it has always been used as a hall, I should rather be inclined to consider that the present building is the chapel of the castle.

[1819, Part //.,/. 133.]

The reparations that are making at Winchester Cathedral, take them in general, are not of the best taste. The roof of that part where the transept is united is in imitation of Henry VII., and the colours too gaudy in my opinion ; light blue prevails, that is offensive to the eye ; the roof of the choir is of the same description. The Chapel of La Vierge, where they now perform service during the repairs, is, I believe, finished with a glaring red curtain to keep them warm ; this might do in winter, but in summer it put me in a fever; and instead of painting, that which ought to be so is done with a nasty glazy varnish, and the pavement in the same disfigured state as belore.

The choir, I am afraid, will not correspond with the expectations of many antiquaries ; the four angles of the four arches of the great tower are four kings, with each a sceptre. I took them to be four Highlanders from their dress, with a Scotch bonnet on their heads and playing on the bagpipes ; for the manner of their arms and the position of their sceptres is more that of the chanter ; so that I took them to be literally Scotchmen playing the bagpipes, with a red jacket faced with blue and a Highland bonnet on their heads. The organs are still to be left to stop up the grand effect of the north transept, and the opposite grand arch is also stopped up, they say to confine the sound of the organs and correspond with the former; this, in my humble opinion, destroys one of the finest, one of the grandest points of view in the cathedral, and obscures everything that is fine in the whole buildirg.

It perhaps may be a want of taste in me, but when they were to make a grand and general repair, they ought to have made the choir like most other cathedrals, on the east oj the grand transept. In no French church have I ever seen the grand effect of the transept ever destroyed. Those who have ever seen the Abbey of St. Alban's will see the bad effect of this. And lastly, there seems an inclination to lose the effect of the two Jubilee galleries, the only ones of the kind in the kingdom, which correspond so exactly with the Abbey of St.

124 Hampsh ire .

George de Rockerville, in Normandy, that they seem to be about the same period of time, and much resemble each other in many points. Yours, etc., A MEMBER OF THE ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY.

[1819, fart II., fp. 30S-3°7']

"A Member of the Antiquarian Society," p. 133, after asserting that the reparations now in progress at Winchester Cathedral " are not of the best taste," proceeds to observe that " the roof of that part where the transept is united is in imitation of Henry VII.," etc. With what propriety a work executed by Bishop Fox in the reign of Henry VII. can be said to be in imitation of the style of that period, I leave your correspondent to explain ; the fact is, that the roof is of timber groined and ornamented in the manner prevalent at the period mentioned. On the part between the stalls and the altar the work- men were employed when I saw it on Saturday, August 21, and were doing the whole of it to imitate stone. I will not say there is no blue introduced in the part of the roof towards the west, but I confidently assert I saw none.

" Instead of painting, that which ought to be so," he adds, " is done with a nasty glazy varnish." The stalls in this chapel, which are of oak, and carved in a very chaste and beautiful manner, have been varnished, and the faint remains of the legendary paintings on the eastern end of the north and south walls, in order to preserve them, have been varnished also ; but I can discover nothing offensively glazy in their appearance, much less anything to be justly termed "nasty." It is scarcely possible your correspondent can wish the stalls to be painted ; and the walls could not, without obliterating the ancient legends to which I have alluded, and which I conceive every antiquary would be anxious to preserve. I am therefore at a loss to discover where this painting is required.

With respect to the statues of the four monarrhs at the angles of the tower, which possess so little of kingly dignity as to be mistaken for " four Scotchmen playing on bagpipes," it will suffice to say, the blame can only atuch to those by whom they were executed and placed in the situations they occupy.

Whether the organ shall remain in its present situation under the northern arch of the tower, or be placed at the west end of the choir, is not yet (as I understand) finally decided ; if it remains, the arch towards the southern transept must also, I conceive, continue to be stopped up; if it is removed ("a consummation devoutly to be wished "), both the arches opening to the transept will be cleared of their incumbrances ; and therefore for this alteration, as well as for taking away the screen ascribed to Inij:o Jones at the entrance of the choir, and the opening the first story of the tower (which would give to the choir the sublime and impressive effect so well delineated in the engraving by Radcliffe in Britton's "History of Winchester

Winchester. \ 2 5

Cathedral," I am an earnest and decided advocate. By-the-by, this last alteration, if made, would occasion the removal of the offensive statues.

I now proceed to consider the strange suggestion of your corre- spondent, for the removal of the whole choir to the east of the tran- sept ; because, to form an entire choir eastward of the transept, of the same dimensions as the present (and he does not intimate any desire that it should be curtailed), the altar would block up the entrance to the Chapel of the Virgin ; while the great east window, which ter- minates the present, would be about half-way down the proposed choir, the height of which, in the eastern half, would be thereby reduced from 78 to 44 feet. Nor is this all, for the tombs of William Rufus, De Lucy, De Foix, and several others, must be removed, and the chantries of Beaufort, Waynflete, Fox and Gardiner (the com- bined effect of which in their present relative situations is asserted to exceed anything in this country, if not in Europe), must be destroyed, or at least erected in other and less eligible places. The altar-screen, too, so justly admired, must be taken down, and the height of the eastern end of the proposed choir would not admit of its being re- placed, even if it could be effected without mutilation ; besides which, another screen, placed at the eastern extremity of the Presby- tery, which has on its eastern front nine niches enriched with elegantly-sculptured canopies, formerly containing statues of eighteen saints and monarchs, must be also displaced and rendered useless.

The persons who are now directing the repairs of the cathedral are the Rev. Dr. George Frederick Nott, one of the prebendaries, and William Garbett, Esq., architect, of Winchester. The grand prin- ciple by which they have been hitherto guided is renovation in preference to alteration, and their primary object appears to be to reduce everything (as far as circumstances will permit) to its pristine state by removing all anomalous and incongruous ornaments and appendages, which vitiated taste has at different intervening periods introduced.

In elucidation of this remark, I beg to observe that they are at this time restoring with great care, and a scrupulous adherence to the original design, the mutilated parts of the altar-screen ; while some urns, which a former member of this Church, whose liberality is more to be commended than his taste, had introduced into the niches formerly occupied by the statues, as well as a gorgeous canopy of wainscot .profusely ornamented and gilt, of the time of the first Charles, are to be removed ; and the whole of this elaborate and beautiful piece of ancient sculpture exposed to view, devoid of every incumbrance, its centre being adorned by West's picture of " Christ raising Lazarus."

1 26 Hampshire.

[1828, Part If., fp. 309, 310,]

The restoration of the magnificent sepulchral monument of Bishop Waynflete, in Winchester Cathedral, has lately been undertaken and completed, and the workmen have left it with scarcely less than its original perfection and beauty. It was severely mutilated during the late extensive alterations in the interior of the cathedral. In particular the iron bars were removed from the compartments of the screen, which the original architect had thus judiciously strengthened, and which, with this addition, secured the interior from improper intrusion. This needless operation required immense labour, and it was not effected without severe injury to the monument, as the bars passed quite through the mullions and pillars, and were of the hardest wrought iron. Certainly this restitution was not less necessary than that of the clustered turret of the canopy, demolished by an accident which it was found had considerably weakened the adjoining members of the structure. These and the various injuries of time and mischief are now redeemed ; the dust, which had for ages encumbered the delicate carved work, removed, and many of the shafts and pinnacles composing the splendid canopy are restored from insecurity to firmness. Though this beautiful monument is too well known to require a particular description, I may briefly remark that it occupies the entire space of one of the arches in that part of the cathedral built by Bishop Godfrey de Lucy, and consists of open screens separated and supported by eight lofty pillars, which uphold the canopy, of a pyramidical form, to suit the shape of the vaulted aisle. The utmost care and labour were bestowtd on the design and construction of this admirable monument ; but the skill of the architect and the ability of the mason seem to have been chiefly devoted to the canopy, the exquisite delicacy and merit of which cannot surely be surpassed. It is composed of eighteen single and four double turrets, storied and united, and surrounded by almost innumerable shafts and pinnacles of various sizes, from the centres of which rise the master-pinnacle rich in crockets. The effects of age and violence on this part of the delicate fabric were very numerous. One hundred and nine pinnacles and shafts, thirty finials and crockets of various kinds, and other minute ornaments, have supplied the deficiencies. Nearly all the remaining pinnacles were insecure, owing to the use of wooden pegs instead of brass wire, with which the whole are now fastened. Stone of several qualities was used in the construction of the monument, but the greater part is supposed to have been brought from Beere in Devon- shire. The repairs have been made with Painswick and Farley Down stone, and the whole brought to an uniform and beautiful colour. The effigy survived the Reformation unhurt, and there is reason lo believe that, excepting the removal of the statues from the niches, no other injury was done to the monument. But the "rebel

Winchester. 127

army under Sir Wm. Waller, partly incited by the zeal of the College in the Royal cause, -defaced among various other outrages the tomb of the prelate, the beauty and decorations of which increased the savage efforts of the soldiery to spoil it."*

After this violence, the figure of the Bishop, which alone seems to have suffered, was clumsily repaired wiih stone or putty, and coarsely painted in imitation cf the original colours which concealed the material, which is stone, though supposed by Dr. Chandler to be polished marble or alabaster, like Wykeham's.t The unsightly features have been replaced by others authorized both by existing remains and approved portraits of Bishop Waynflete, and the costume repainted and regilt in the colours in which it has always appeared. The inscription on brass round the verge of the tomb was torn away, and the altar-table entirely destroyed.

This interesting restoration was entrusted by the Society of Magdalen College, Oxford, to Mr. Buckler, sen., under whose direc- tion the work has been accomplished ; and it may be added that the various repairs were undertaken and executed by Mr. Stobbes, the able superintendent of the business of the late Mr. James Cundy, of ilelgrave Wharf, Pimlico.

Bishop Waynflete's is now the most perfect monument in the cathedral, and it is hoped that neither through accident nor the ignorance of the mischievous it will again be deprived of any of its appropriate and exquisite enrichments.

AN OLD OBSERVER.

[1X28, Part II., pp. 310, 311.]

The very extensive repairs which have been in progress in the magnificent cathedral of Winchester during the last sixteen years have been repeatedly noticed in your magazine,! in some instances but casually, in others incorrectly. As they are now brought to a con- clusion, and the church has attained in consequence a degree of splendour almost unknown to a Protestant cathedral, an additional notice will not, I trust, be unacceptable to your antiquarian friends. . . .

The pages of that sound and intelligent antiquary Dr. Milner, I conclude, are so familiar to your readers that I need not recapitulate the injuries the cathedral had sustained, or the incongruities with which former benefactors, by ill-judged attempts at embellishments, had disfigured it. Let anyone read the eloquent and admirable description of the church by that historian, and bearing in mind the defects and mutilations which it had formerly sustained, let him then visit the choir in its present renovated state ; and when he reflects

* Chandler's " Life of Waynflete," p. 289. t /*«</., P- 290.

% See vol. Ixxxix., Pt. II., pp. 29, 133, 307; xcvii., Pt. II., pp. Ill, 194, 411, 590 ; xcviii., Pt. I., p. 194.

128 Hampshire.

on the expense and attention which have been bestowed in restoring this sacred part of the edifice almost to the state in which it shone before the ill-judged zeal of our early reformers, and the deplorable fanaticism of the puritanical bigots of the Commonwealth had defaced its features of splendour — when he witnesses the respect here paid to the illustrious dead by the preservation of their monuments and their ashes, and contrasts it with the devastations formerly committed at Salisbury by Wyatr, under the direction of Bishop Barrington — it must afford to him unqualified satisfaction both as an antiquary and a Churchman.

The substantial repairs of the cathedral are not the least of the works which have been done ; the timbers and lead covering of the roofs, and other particulars essential to the stability of the structure itself, have received great expense and attention ; the material parts of the repairs consisting in the restoration of the decayed portions of the edifice : and here the faulty pillar which has been restored in the nave claims priority of notice. Whoever surveys the loftiness and magnitude of the pier, and reflects on the immense superin- cumbent weight it sustained, must be struck with the difficulty of removing a crazy supporter in such a situation, and introducing a new one in its place without damaging the vaulted stone roof of the church. Yet this has been done by Mr. Garbett, and the pillar care- fully restored in its pristine form. A controversy arose as to the necessity of the immense framework of timber* which the architect deemed it necessary to raise for the support of the roof and adjoin- ing arches of the building, the sum of which only went to prove that he had used superabundant caution in the work. That an architect ought not idly to squander his employer's money must be acknow- ledged, but when' the responsibility which the care and preservation of such a building as Winchester Cathedral is considered, few I believe will be found to censure the architect for avoiding even the possibility of so great a calamity as the fall of a large portion of the church. Two of the engaged columns which ornament this new pier have been constructed in cast iron, and tinted uniform with the stone ; thi's appears in any point of view an absurdity. If the material was adopted on the ground of economy, the saving must have been too trifling to render its adoption necessary ; if, as I fear was the case, it was experimental, it is the more to be regretted that for a whim the cathedral should be disfigured, as it eventually will be when the colour of the iron in process of time differs from the adjacent stone work.

Connected with this column is the Chantry Chapel of Bishop Edington (the least ornamental of the six splendid insulated oratories in this cathedral), which has been rescued from the "dust and oblivion " of which Milner complains, and restored to its original

* See vol. xcvii., Part II., p. 411.

Winchester. 129

elegance. The next work of magnitude is the restoration of the altar-screen ; in this, canopied niches, which had been chiselled down to a plane surface, have been reconstructed, the concavities of others which had been filled up cleared out, and the damage which had been done by the addition of a canopy, and carvings displaying the architecture of Wren and the sculptures of Grinling Gibbons, as well as by the paint which had been bestowed by way of embellish- ment, has been carefully repaired. The recolouring of the bosses of the choir ceiling, with their curious and interesting devices, and the restoration of the stained glass of the eastern window, together with other decayed portions of the ornamental stone work in the interior, and the reconstruction of two flying buttresses and several mullioned windows on the choir, together with the restoration of the Norman windows in the north transept, which had been altered to receive mullions in the most debased period of the Pointed style, may conclude the summary of the renovations which have been effected.

The new works are not the least important. A choir screen of stone in the Pointed style supplies the place of the incongruous but elegant composite one erected by fnigo Jones. The present is a subdued but excellent imitation of the central western entrance to the cathedral; it has a single arch between two rich niches, which may be regarded as restorations of those which Milner assigns to the statues of SS. Peter and Paul, destroyed by iconoclastic violence. The present are occupied by the bronze effigies of James and Charles, from the old screen, which from the circumstance of being clad in armour, are far less out of character in their present than in their former situation ; as original specimens of costume they are valuable to the antiquary and the historian.

The organ was intended to have been removed from the north transept to the west end of the choir, and in consequence this screen is lower than it ought to have been; the superior view of the choir, which is obtained in consequence of the unobtrusive situation of the organ, fully compensates for this defect, and it is a matter of con- gratulation that the organ was not removed. The idea of the screen, I am informed, was given by Mr. Nash.* I should consider an addi- tion might easily be made to the height to conceal the backs of the stall canopies in the choir.

The Bishop's throne, one of the most splendid and elegant com- positions in wood-work of the present age, was designed by Mr. Garbett. It exhibits a splendid and elaborate niche of large dimensions, in a style of grandeur suited to the subject. The plan

* In the spandrels are shields : on one is the arms of the See in relief ; in other doors the arms of the Bishop is generally found in such situations, being set up in memory of his being a benefactor ; in the present instance the other shield is blank. The screen was finished in the time of Bishop Tomline.

VOL. XVII. 9

1 30 Hampshire.

is polygonal ; the floor elevated on three steps, and surrounded by a low breast-work. Above the Bishop's seat is an acutely pointed canopy between two pinnacles ; the principal canopy is composed first of two large pointed arches, one on each side, covered with tall acutely pointed pediments crocketed on the angles and ending in finials. They are sustained on the one hand by the back of the throne, and on the other by uprights rising from the floor, decorated with angular caps and ending in pinnacles crowned with finials. In front of these arches the canopy projects in a semi-hexagon. The front division is composed of a large arch, ornamented as before ; and the side divisions are formed of smaller ones of a corresponding character, the which are separated by elegant crocketed pinnacles. The ceiling or soffit of the canopy is richly groined ; the whole is executed in strict accordance with the stalls ; the material is carved oak, and has the appearance of a work of the age of Edward I. The minute and varied ornaments, the sweeps in the arches and the beautiful panelling, I have not space to particularize in detail. The whole is worthy of the church it ornaments, and of the prelate who ranks the fifth in the hierarchy. The present diocesan has evinced his attachment to the old and excellent institutions of the Church of England by being personally enthroned in this beautiful seat.

Opposite to the throne is the organ, the case of which is similarly ornamented ; it retires behind the line of the side walls of the choir — in consequence it holds that unobtrusive situation which is desirable, the organ being in general too conspicuous. A fastidious critic may perhaps point out a want of symmetry in its situation, but I feel certain no spectator of taste would wish to sacrifice the fine vista of the middle aisle to any pragmatical ideas of uniformity.

The transepts, being the original unaltered Norman of Bishop Walkelin, originally displayed a naked timber roof, not concealed as in after works by a stone vault ; this has been judiciously covered with A flat wooden ceiling, painted with quartrefoils, in the style of the period immediately preceding the Reformation, and though con- demned by your correspondent, the " Member of the Antiquarian Society," is executed sufficiently well to pass for a work of the above period. The design of this addition emanated from Dr. Nott, a tasteful member of the chapter, who has personally superintended the greater part of the repairs.

The ceiling of the central tower was erected by Inigo Jones, in the reign of Charles I., and is a copy of the ceiling of the chapel of Wykeham's College. The four corbel statues, which originally sus- tained the springing of the vault, although fresh painted and gilt, were found to exhibit so ludicrous an appearance as to give the idea of an itinerant Punchinello rather than that of a sovereign ; these have been removed, and dwarf clusters of three columns substituted for them.

Winchester. 131

In one of the engravings in Dr. Milner's work, the former screens, composed of whitewashed boards, which cut off the views of the transepts, are shown ; these have been removed, and in consequence the view of the crucifix aisles, somewhat resembling in arrangement and situation the transepts of Westminster Abbey, are let into view from the choir ; the construction of the new ceiling was therefore in- dispensable, as the naked timber roof would have ill-agreed with the splendour and high finishing of the vault of the choir. The effect produced by letting in the view of the transepts can scarcely be appreciated by any person who has not seen the choir in its former state, but judging from the view before noticed, it is not the least im- provement which has taken place.

The decayed and infirm state of the chapel behind the high altar, known as De Lucy's work, notwithstanding the repairs which have been bestowed on it, is still very apparent ; the walls are out of the perpendicular in many situations, and much it is to be feared that a very considerable reconstruction will shortly be necessary. The clustered columns have tastelessly been painted at some time, and they have now been varnished instead of being polished, a defect, however, not chargeable on Mr. Garbett. In the north-eastern portion of this chapel is now fixed a very curious marble monument for the heart of Bishop Ethelmar ; this was formerly loose, and had no doubt remained so ever since Bishop Fox reconstructed the choir, and inscribed a new epitaph ; it is now affixed to the wall with a curious epitaph beneath ; it is not given by Milner, but having too antique an appearance for a modern work, I conclude it is the original of Fox's inscription, and was one of those duplicate epitaphs which evidently at one time existed in this cathedral in other instances, being the originals of those copied and reinscribed by Fox. This inscription is as follows :

TIBI COR oceucrc

The splendid monumental chapels which form such elegant features in this cathedral, each of which is an independent building, are in fine preservation : that of Bishop Waynflete is now under- going repairs, and it is curious to witness the care and attention dis- played in the restoration of the minute and delicately curved pinnacles, evincing that the present age can furnish mechanics to execute any work, however costly or elaborate, if proper encourage- ment is given.

Whilst on the cathedral, I would call to your readers' notice a beautiful marble monument recently erected to the memory of the Rev. Mr. Iremonger, a prebendary ; it consists of an insulated altar tomb, on which lies a recumbent effigy in the clerical habit, on a mat lolled up at the head and feet ; the sculptor is Chantrey, and he has

9—2

132 Hampshire.

shown in the mild inanimate features of the lifeless effigy a grace and expression which the most laboured group of modern statuary generally fails to give. I cannot better conclude this long letter than by saying that the whole of the works have been executed in solid wood and stone, and that Roman cement, compo, or other expedients for producing false appearances have been very properly avoided ; and, as a further merit, the various ancient fragments of paintings and sculptures and other vestiges of old times mentioned by Milner may still be seen in a perfect state, and that even the legendary paintings in the Lady Chapel, so ably illustrated by Milner and Carter, have been carefully varnished. The whole of the works have been executed at the expense of the dean and chapter, upwards of ^40,000 having been expended in the course of the repairs. The utmost praise is due to them for their liberality, and I trust the excellent example set at Winchester will be followed by other chapters. Yours, etc., E. I. C.

[1796, Part II., fp. 1012, 1013.]

Nothing is more clear to me than that the ship, and the other figures on the curious old font in the cathedral of this city, do not relate at all to the history of St. Birinus. Of this, as well as of a true interpretation of these hieroglyphics, I hope one day to be able to convince the Society of Antiquaries, who have hitherto adopted the explanation alluded to. J- M.

[1813, Part II., p. 695.]

On opening a vault lately in the middle aisle of the west transept of Winchester Cathedral, a stone coffin was discovered immediately under the surface of the pavement, supposed to contain the remains of a prelate or mitred abbot. A ring of pure gold, with an amethyst about the size and shape of a turkey's eye set therein, and part of a crosier, much decayed, were found in the coffin ; but few vestiges of the body remained. The crook and ferrule of the crosier were of metal, and the shaft of wood, quite plain.

[i860, Part J., fp. 266, 267.]

A note of an interesting discovery, made early in last year, re- specting the architecture of this church, may be acceptable to your readers.

In ihe "Architectural Notes" by Mr. J. H. Parker in the Win- chester volume of the Archaeological Institute, p. 12, the tradition that the church of St. Bartholomew, Hyde, was built of fragments from the abbey buildings, is noticed, together with the occurrence of a fine Norman south doorway, and of an Early English window on the north side. Visitors may remember that there was an

Winchester. 135

appendage on the north side, which might have been called a north transept, and which most probably was a chantry chapel ; and that a late Norman capital was visible on the west side of the arch of this chapel. When it was determined to enlarge the chrrch, an examina- tion was made at this part of the building, and it was proved, by cutting away part of the wall, that there was originally a north aisle, separated from the nave by three Norman arches with cylindrical piers, one of which (with the spring of the two arches, east and west, from its abacus) was found connected with the capital before named. On the side of this pier, and preserved by the masonry built against it, was a full-length painting of a bishop, in pontificalibus, with the low-pointed mitre of the late Norman times. The work filling up the pier-arches seems to be Early English.

The explanation of this most probably is to be found in the record (Wharton, "Aug. Sacra," vol. i., p. 299), that during the wars of Stephen's reign in 1141 the whole suburb of Hyde was burnt; " ecclesLa sanctimonialium combusta et ecclesia de Hide," this church of St. Bartholomew, which, when it was rebuilt, preserved of its original north aisle only the chantry chapel I have spoken of, the relics of its original Norman construction being almost wholly hidden by the Early English work of its restorers.

I am, etc., B. B. WOODWARD.

[1864, Part II., pf. 634, 635.]

I am very desirous to invite the attention of your readers to the restoration now being effected in the well-known chapel of St. Cross Hospital. I feel sure that when the case is really understood, many friends of our ancient church architecture, and admirers of St. Cross in particular, will gladly take part in this most interesting work.

In the month of March, 1858, the architect, Mr. Butterfield, made an elaborate report upon the church and hospital buildings generally; the portion relating to the church, or chapel, concluded thus :

" Internally the church is very damp, and it will never be other- wise until its pavements have been taken up, the soil below excavated and removed, and the floor relaid entirely free of it. The walls and piers generally require to be carefully cleansed from whitewash, and the stone and Purbeck marble to be everywhere exposed, and repaired where they have been cut away. There is dry rot in some of the wood floors in the interior. It is quite undesirable to spend money on a repair of the present arrangements. A general refitting, which should bring the nave and choir into use and leave the aisles and transepts unoccupied, is very desirable."

In consequence of this report, and as soon as any money was available for the purpose, in the autumn of 1860 the floor of the nave was " taken up, the soil below excavated and removed, and the pave-

134 Hampshire.

nient relaid entirely free of it ;'' "the walls and piers were cleansed of the whitewash, and the stone exposed" throughout that part of the building. New doors were also placed at the north, south and great west entrances ; the whole being done at a cost of about ^650.

Things thus remained, with some few exceptions, till the autumn of last year, when " Z. O." (a still entirely unknown friend) made his munificent offer in the following terms :

"nth August, 1863. "To the Trustees of St. Cross.

" GENTLEMEN, — Upon a recent visit to the church of St. Cross, I could not fail to be impressed with the beauty of the building, and also with regret that the restorations were arrested through want of available funds. I have therefore supposed that I might venture to make offer of a gift subject to certain conditions, one of which is that the gift be made anonymously. The sum proposed to be offered is

The conditions were briefly these : that the money be applied to the interior of the east end of the church ; to placing stained glass windows instead of those of plain glass over the Communion table ; and, if adequate, to relaying the old tiles and monumental slabs.

The gift was at once accepted with its conditions.

I am, etc., L. M. HUMBERT, Master of St. Cross.

[1865, Part I., p. 437.]

When the Bishop of Winchester visited the work in November last, it was observed by his lordship and many others who were then present, that the admirable effect produced by the very small dash of colour introduced at the east end of the church was such as to render a further and judicious application of the same kind very desirable ; especially as there were such evident remains of similar work. The funds, however, contributed by " Z. O." and the public were insufficient to justify such an attempt, and the Hospital, it is well known, has no surplus fund at disposal. Under these circumstances, a gentleman of high position in the county, a lessee of the hospital, who was present on the occasion, has undertaken at his own expense the decoration of the eastern wall, after a pattern carefully prepared by the architect, Mr. Butterfield, and approved by the Master.

It only remains to add that the generous offer has been gratefully accepted ; and it is expected this special work will be commenced forthwith. We hope that other friends will follow so good an example, and undertake the side walls of the choir under the direc- tion of the same eminent authority. May we not suggest a special fund for this special work ?

Winchester. 135

[1844, Part II., p. 192.]

The long continuance of dry weather has so withered the grass in the meadow on the south-east of Winchester College, as to render the foundations of a building of considerable extent and strength very conspicuous. They consist of flint and chalk, and, from their position being due east, scarcely a doubt can exist of their having formed the chapel attached to the College of St. Elizabeth, of which there are no other remains. The length inside the walls is 120 feet, and the width 36 feet ; each wall and buttress, of which there are seven on the north and south, and two at the east and west, can be easily traced, and measure about 6 feet in thickness. This college was founded in 1301 by John de Pontissara, Bishop of Winchester, and dedicated under the name of St. Elizabeth of Hungary, with funds for a warden, six other priests, three deacons and sub-deacons, besides young clerks or students, one of whom was appointed to wait on each priest. At the dissolution of religious houses the yearly income was valued at ^112 175. 4d. Thomas Runcorn was at that time warden, and was afterwards appointed one of the first pre- bendaries of the cathedral upon the expulsion of the monks. The buildings and site were given to Sir Thomas Wriothesley, afterwards Earl of Southampton, who sold them to Dr. John White, then Warden of Winchester College, for the use of his society, for ^360, subject to the condition that the church should be turned into a grammar-school for seventy students, or else that it should be pulled down before the Pentecost of 1547. In consequence the church was destroyed to the foundations. It is said to have been orna- mented with three altars, one of St. Elizabeth, a second of St. Stephen and St. Lawrence, and a third of St. Edmund and St. Thomas the Martyr.

A considerable portion of the site of this establishment was added in 1554 to the meadow attached to Winchester College, and the wall inclosing it has every appearance of being erected with stone taken from the destroyed buildings.

[1852, Part II., p. 295.]

Several ancient mural paintings have been lately discovered on the north wall of the ancient church of St. John, Winchester. The sub- ject represented in the ponion at present discovered appears to be the Crucifixion. Christ is represented as being fastened to a cross, not of the Roman shape, but of the same shape as that of St. Andrew. The two thieves are represented on his right and left hand. An apostle or saint appears to be looking towards heaven, and also a woman in an attitude of adoration at the foot of the crucified thief on the right hand. The Saviour and the apostles have their heads surrounded by the nimbus.

Hampshire.

[1793, Part II., p. 703.]

Though the register of the parish of St. Laurence, in Winchester, is missing, perhaps some of the inscriptions that were in it may be extant in the registry of that diocese; it being ordered by the yoth canon of 1601 that the churchwardens shall every year transmit to the bishop, or his chancellor, a true copy of the names of the persons christened, married, or buried, in their parishes, during the preceding year. Perhaps is the proper term ; since the extracts may or may not be found in the above-mentioned place, it being well known that this injunction has not been regularly complied with, as well because churchwardens are not always willing to defray the charge of making the transcripts, as that they are to be received at the office without a fee. Such a restriction does not seem to have been calculated to induce registrars and their deputies to press for a return of these certificates ; nor, considering the little chance there is of any emolu- ment likely to accrue from the custody of the papers, was it to be expected that they would be duly arranged and carefully preserved.

[1844, Part II., pp. 379- 380.]

The Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen formerly stood on the hill bearing that name, about a mile east of this city ; but as some account of it may probably afford interest to some of your readers, I send you the best I can collect from the scanty history existing of it.

It is somewhat remarkable that this establishment has escaped the notice of Dugdale, Tanner, and every other antiquary ; nor is even the name of the founder positively ascertained. Milner has, however, brought together so many circumstances in his investiga- tion of this point as prove satisfactory, in my opinion, that to Richard Toclyve must be assigned the merit. He governed this see in the reign of Henry I, from the year 1173 to 1189, with the character of an exemplary prelate ; and we learn that his charity led him first to the augmentation of St. Cross, but that afterwards it was diverted into another channel. We are acquainted with the works of his predecessors, and those who immediately succeeded him, and as the style of architecture of the chapel,* that of the ornamented Norman with the first rudiments of the Gothic, corresponds with the period, the appropriation to him appears warranted, by every sense of reason and justice.

That it must have been established soon after the Conquest is confirmed by the register of John de Pontissara, wherein is an agree- ment made in 1283 between the bishop and the prior and convent of St. Swithin, in which the latter acknowledge that the bishops of Winchester had been for a long time (per multa tempora) patrons of

* See plates i., ii., in 3rd vol. " Velusta Monumenta."

Winchester. 137

the preferments mentioned, amongst which is the house of St. Mary Magdalen.

The foundation, which was distinguished by having the munificent Waynflete, afterwards bishop of the see, for its master, consisted of a master and nine persons, either male or female, eight being resident, with an ample provision in money and commons, and one out- pensioner ; and there is strong reason to believe that the sick and leprous were occasionally admitted, as in the will of John Fromond, steward of Winchester College, dated November 14,1420,19 the clause, "Item lego ad rlistribuend. inter leprosos B. M.Magdalene Winton, vis. \i\\d." Many other legacies are mentioned in the bishops' registers as left for the benefit of this community, which continued to prosper until the reign of Henry VIII., when it shared the fate of so many others, that of spoliation, but was not suppressed.

In the war between Charles I. and his Parliament it suffered greatly from the royal troops under Lord Hopton, who in vain endeavoured to restrain them. But it was in 1665 that the ruin was completed. By the command of Charles II. and Lord Arlington, the master was compelled to remove with the almsfolk, that Dutch prisoners of war might be admitted. These burned all the timber they could find, greatly injured the master's and the other houses, carried away the pulpit, seats, bell and lead of the chapel, and, indeed, rendered the buildings unfit for habitation. On this occa- sion an humble petition was presented to his majesty, setting forth the damage sustained, which was estimated at ,£650. A grant of ,£100 was made, but the society not possessing means, nor finding friends to assist them, were never afterwards enabled to return.

In 1788 a commission was obtained by the master for pulling the buildings down, which was soon after accomplished, leaving only the naked pillars and arches. These have long since disappeared, and nothing now remains to mark the spot on which this charitable asylum stood ; the only part, indeed, existing, to be recognised else- where, is the bold and well-designed Saxon portal forming the entrance to the Roman Catholic chapel in St. Peter's Street. This was the western doorway of the venerable chapel, and removed piecemeal on its destruction in 1792.

The buildings originally consisted of a good residence for the master, and a separate house for each of the inmates. The chapel stood on the south of these, 77 feet long and 36 feet wide, with three aisles, the roof supported by five columns on each side. Here Dr. Ebden, a former master and benefactor, was buried in 1614, aged ninety-eight, and a brass plate fixed in the south wall of the chancel, with the following inscription to his memory :

" Corpus Johannis Ebden, sacra1 Theologioe Professoris pii, ecclesise cathedralis Winton. prebendarii docti, hujus Hospitii Magistri reverendi : qui inter alia dona in alios charitatis usus collala .£200 in augmentationem stipendiorum ibidem libere dedit ; hoc tegitur tumulo. Obiit 16 Novembris 1614, sctatis sure 98."

138 Hampshire.

Several acres of land, principally in gardens, were attached, and with a burial-ground surrounded by a wall. YVithout the wall were sixteen acres more land, and pasturage for 126 sheep.

The present state of this once flourishing society is, the Bishop of Winchester appoints the master, usually the incumbent of one of the churches of the city, who nominates eight poor persons to share with him the small remaining funds.

B.

[1845, Part //.,//. 239, 240.]

I proceed to notice that tangible memorial of round table hasti- ludes still preserved in the building, once the chapel of St. Stephen, within the castle of Winchester, no*v the only remain of that ancient fortress.

Milner, in his " History of Winchester," informs us that this chapel was erected in the reign of King Stephen, and thinks its dedication to the saint of that name was a compliment to the monarch above mentioned.

He doubts that King Arthur was ever at Winchester, but considers that the traditions of his having held his court at that city and Silchester have arisen from confounding Caerwent in Monmouthshire and Caer Segont in Caernarvonshire with the Venta Belgarum and the capital of the Segontiaci. If it could be proved that Arthur had really been at Winchester, although the appropriation of the round table to his times might be, strictly speaking, an error, yet, con- sidering the more modern table as a renewal of one really used for his chivalrous festivals, it could not be without some admixture of truth.

Milner appears, however, to allow an antiquity for the table as high as the twelfth century, the reign of King Stephen ; but this proposi- tion is only tenable if it can be shown that the table was repainted in the fifteenth century, to which period its present decorations must be referred

Arthur's round table at Winchester is composed, it is said, of stout oak plank. It is about 15 feet in diameter, and presented, therefore, ample space for the sovereign and twenty-four knights.

In one compartment of the table a monarch is represented, attired in royal robes, a sword in one hand and the orb, surmounted by a cross, in the other. The crown which he wears is the form of that which was used by Henry VII, More assuredly to fix the period, the centre of the table is adorned with the white and red rose, the badges of York and Lancaster, which became united by the marriage of Henry with Elizabeth, the daughter of Edward IV.

Round the double rose runs the inscription, in black letter :

"THIS IS THE ROWNDE TABLE OF KlNG ARTHUR, WITH 24 OF HIS NAMYD

KNIGHTS."

Winchesttr. 139

Round the margin of the table are twenty-four names of knights in the same character, drawn from the old romances, as Sir Kay, Sir Launcelot du Lake, Sir Lionel, etc. These names are to be found in the " Legends of King Arthur," printed by Caxton in the reign of Henry VII.

The King's own pedigree, deduced from the Princes of Wales, and his reputed descent, consequently, frqm King Arthur, rendered the tales respecting the British hero popular, in compliment to the King.

It will be recollected that his eldest son received the baptismal name of Arthur.

The round table, according to Milner's statement, received very rough treatment from the ruffianly soldiers of Ciomwell, who, on the surrender of Winchester, perforated it with musket shots. Their fanatic rage spared neither the monuments of history nor the temples of Christian worship. They well performed, like demons unchained, for a time, their commission as a public scourge, brought the King to the block, put the laws and constitution in abeyance, and sus- pended the regular ministrations of the Church.

Their day, however fearful, was not, perhaps, without effects beneficial in their ultimate consequences to the commonweal.

Arthur's round table, notwithstanding the assault which it endured as a relic of royalty, still remains to attract, in a peaceful and inquir- ing age, the notice of the lovers of history.

I had almost forgotten to mention that this table was shown to Charles V., when he visited England in the reign of Henry VIII., as the real round table of King Arthur. That it was of high anti- quity I think this circumstance may tend to prove, for it is difficult to suppose that such a tale should have been forged relative to an object which must have been known to bear no higher a date than the time of the reigning monarch's father. The ascertaining that the old table had been fresh painted in the time of Henry VII. would reconcile an apparent anachronism.

One suggestion might possibly be made relative to the round table at Winchester which must not be entirely disregarded, namely, that it might have been carried in those pageants or processions of archers popularly denominated "Arthur's Show," in one of which Justice Shallow informs us he represented Sir Dagonet. This hint may be illustrated by the authorities cited in the margin.*

The city which preserves this curious remain of ancient chivalry will have been visited in the months of August and September of the present year by two bodies of competent archaeological professors, who, whatever the rise of their divisions, can in their researches have but one common object in view. I am confident the opportunity

* A remembrance of the worthy show of shooting by the Duke of Shoreditch, A.D. 1583. Collier's Shakespeare, vol. iv., p. 406. Henry IV., part 2nd, in text and note.

1 40 Hampshire.

will not be lost by them of ascertaining with some degree of cer- tainty the real age of the remarkable relic which I have imperfectly illustrated by these notes, a result which will be very gratifying to > our old correspondent —

A. J. K.

[181 1, Part II., fp. 508, 509.]

The beautiful cross at Winchester is seated on five stone steps, each of which gradually diminishes in size upwards. They are placed as it were one at each angle of a square, and the remaining one in the centre of them ; each have a base. The sides of the shafts that are in view are panelled, one above the other, divided by a circle, which contains four turns in it (generally called a quatrefoil). The heads of the panels are turned into flat-pointed arches, in which are turns likewise. The heads of the shafts (the two sides of each that are in view) terminate with small sharp pedimental points, adorned with crockets, a finial, etc. These large shafts are connected one with the other by means of flat-pointed arches, which originally were ornamented with turns ; but most of them were destroyed through lapse of time, or perhaps mischievous hands as they are within arm's reach. Over the heads of these arches is an elegant kind of canopy, with crockets and a finial. Out of the heads of the supporting shafts is a base, from which rises a slender shaft, or flying buttress, as high as the pedestal where the figures stand. It has one panel on each side of it, the heads of which are small pointed arches with turns in them. Here is a projecting moulding, and out of it rises a more slender buttress, twice as high as the one that supports it. It termi- nates with a pinnacle enriched with crockets, etc. Between these four buttresses and the pedestal which supports the figures are four others, much higher, and not half the thickness of the former, but in a line with them, finishing with pinnacles also. These shafts support one another. Before the pinnacle of the outer one is a small pointed arch with turns in it, joining to the second or inner one ; and again, above the other division, is another of the same. In the space left between these four slender buttresses stands the base or pedestal, divided into panels, with pointed heads, and finishes with a cornice. There are four niches, which originally contained the same number of figures ; but one or two only remain. About the height of the base of the pinnacle of ths outer shaft, rises an arch, with five turns in it, over which is a canopy, like the lower arches, ornamented with crockets. Over these niches is a cluster of panelled work, with sharp-pointed heads, ornamented with a finial and crockets ; under which are flat arches, containing turns, etc. ; their height is divided by small flat-pointed heads, with trefoils under them ; every two panels are divided by a small slender shaft, in a line with the others before-mentioned, joining each other by means of small flat arches. Out of the cluster rises a base, on which

Winchester. 1 4 1

is supported a shaft, with small panels (on this were originally several niches with figures in them, but it either fell down or was destroyed, and never replaced). Out of this rises two other smaller shafts, and then the standard which supports a small iron cross. The parts of this elegant building are so minute as to appear hardly consistent with strength. Long may it remain the pride of Winchester ; and may the citizens continue sensible of its beauties.

C. B.

[1865, Part II., p. 305.]

We have on several occasions reported the progress made by the committee entrusted with the restoration of this elegant specimen of mediaeval taste — the High Cross of the city of Winchester — and we have now to record its completion. The inauguration took place on August 10 last, being the festival day of St. Lawrence, which was chosen as especially appropriate, the Cross standing not only in the parish but close to the church dedicated to this saint, and the mother church of Winchester.

To say a few words about the Cross itself in its restored state. On the front of the upper step of the Cross is cut the following inscrip- tion in mediaeval lettering :

"RESTORED ANNO DOMINI MDCCCLXV., WILLIAM BUDDEN, MAYOR."

The four larger niches are enriched with statues. That on the west side contains Alfred, carrying in his left hand a roll bearing the inscription :

"YE DOMES OF ENGLAND."

That on the north the statue of William of Wykeham in full pontificals, carrying in his hand the celebrated statute-book of his college with his episcopal seal fastened to it by silken cords; on ihe side of the volume is inscribed, in old English characters:

"STATUTA COLLEGII EEAT.'E MARI/E I)E \VINTON."

In the east niche is a figure representing Florence de Lunn, Win- chester's first mayor, holding in his hand a scroll inscribed :

" CHARTA PRIVILEGIORUM,"

in reference to the privileges conferred on the city of Winchester by the charter of 1184, granted by King Henry II. The south niche is occupied by the old figure.

[1865, Part //., /. 359.]

My attention having been directed to several incongruities exhibited in the figures which now decorate our city cross, I am induced to point out one of the most glaring character in the hope that it will be immediately rectified, namely, that William of Wykeham is repre- sented as holding his crosier in his right hand instead of his left, which is without precedent or authority. Bishops always bear

142 Hampshire.

their crosier or pastoral staff in the left hand, but never in the right, in proof of which I refer your readers, not only to the tombs of William of Wykeham, William of Waynfleet, Thomas Langton, Richard Fox and Bishop Ethelmar, in our own cathedral, but to all the episcopal effigies in the several cathedrals and other churches of England, and to the innumerable prelatical seals which are still extant, the ancient glass windows of our college chapel, etc. In con- nection with this statue it may be also fairly asked, why Wykeham's own magnificent crosier and priceless work of art, which he be- queathed to New College, Oxford, where it is preserved with the most religious care, was not depicted in the hands of this figure, instead of an object so clumsy and faulty.

Other incongruities could be pointed out which would never have crept in if the two gentlemen of the Building Committee who profess the greatest amount of architectural and archaeological knowledge, Dr. Moberly and Mr. Baigent, had seen the drawings or designs of the statues. With respect to the former, his high attainments and deep interest in Church matters induced the committee to select him as one of their special committee, and the latter was made choice of for no other reason except that he is a skilled ritualist and an anti- quary of high repute and authority, and known as such throughout the length and breadth of the land. And now comes the question, how was it that they were not consulted and their advice taken when the designs for these statues were sent to the Town Clerk (the Secre- tary) ? Mr. George Gilbert Scott, I am sure, will not allow such in- novations as these to pass under his name, and thus mar his reputa- tion for accuracy. I am, etc., HENRY MOODY.

[1865, Part 11., p. 402.]

After the destruction of so many of our civic crosses by the muni- cipalities of the last and present century, it is gratifying to find the above so satisfactorily restored. But the able restorer, in supplying a lost statue there by an effigy of William of Wykeham, has been exposed to a groundless objection urged not only in your pages, but in those of the Builder, too. This refers to the position of the crosier, here grasped in the right hand. The complainants would sustain their notion by referring to monumental effigies where the figure is recumbent, and the staff, thus unneeded for support, is there laid by the side : as also when the right hand, in like instances, is elevated in benediction, and the staff is then grasped in the left. But when passing in procession up the church to his episcopal station in the choir, the bishop naturally held the crosier in his right to steady his step under the weight and amplitude of his array, and bishops, be it remembered, had usually passed far beyond their prime. Mr. Scott therefore has, I fancy, done rightly in presenting the bishop standing, leaning, like the patriarch, on his staff. As to the query

Winchester. 143

made in a like spirit, why that elaborate crosier of this bishop, pre- served at New College, was not imitated here, the storms of winter would soon have settled in the cavities of such an imitation in stone, and the frost thereafter would speedily have chipped and frayed the whole away. I am, etc., G. M.

[1864, Part //.,//. 222, 223.]

The recent smartening up of the George Hotel has attracted some attention, insomuch that I have been asked as to the accuracy of the statement made by Dr. Milner, our well-known historian, as to its " having existed on the same spot as early, at least, as the reign of Edward IV. " ; whilst a more recent writer has stated that " this inn is mentioned in the manuscript passagt-s, but not before Elizabeth's reign."— (Woodward's "General History of Hampshire.") These, I believe, are the only statements which have appeared in print touch- ing the antiquity of this inn, though this word itself disappeared from its sign in 1840, for the more fashionable phrase "Hotel." The ground upon which it stands formerly lormed the south west corner of the parish of St. Peter's in MaceLis, otherwise called the parish of St. Peter's in Fleshmonger Street. In the reign of Richard II., its site was occupied by an hostelry or inn called " The Moon," which had probably long existed as such, and becoming decayed by age, it was replaced by a new building about the year 1 146.

At this period St. George stood high in popular estimation, the celebrated battle of Agincourt having been fought with the war-cry of " St. George for ever," and it was considered not only to have been won under his tutelage, but " there were some," says the chronicler, " who asserted that they saw St. George fighting for the king." The new building was graced with his sign, and it was hence- forth called " The George Inn." In 1417 it is mentioned as "the hospice called the George's Inn, otherwise the New Inn." William Benham was " mine host " by the annual rent of ^6 135. 4d. The property was then owned by Henry Somer and Katherine his wife, who was the daughter of John Devenisshe, and upon their deaths it .devolved upon St. John's Hospital. In addition to the above rent, the tenant had to pay annually ten shillings to the Abbot of Hyde, three shillings and fourpence to the Prior and Convent of St. Swithin, and a similar sum to the Brothers of the Friary and Kalendar (charged upon this property for the celebration of certain religious services), and a quit-rent of sixteen pence to the bailiffs of the city, making a total of £7 ros. 4d. In 1431 the same William Benham is recorded as holding a lease of it for eight years at the same rental. The inn having thus obtained its name in the beginning of the fifteenth century, the same has been retained, notwithstanding several rebuildings, the last about a century since.

It may be of interest if I note that the George Inn at Alresfoid

1 44 Hampshire.

received its name about the same time. Its predecessor is mentioned as " the hospice where the Angel is the sign "; but was more popu- larly known as the " Broadgate Inn." In the year 1418 a new building was erected upon its site, at the cost of ^50 (equal to ^750 of present money), the contract for its erection being still extant. To this new edifice was given the name of the George Inn, and I have seen an account of the expenses of the erection of its sign in 1423. The figure of St. George standing upon a post, with a tablet hanging below, bearing shields of arms and writing, cost £$ 135. 4d. The posts cost zs. 4d., and a plank bought for joining the posts for the platform of the statue is. ; besides 4d. given for raising the afore- said posts and tablets. To the plumber for two davs' work, leaden- ing the plank on which the figure stood, together with i6d. for four pounds of solder bought of him, 25. ; and lastly, paid to the man dig- ging the hole for the said sign, 4d.

I am, etc., FRANCIS JOSEPH BAIGENT.

[1866, Part I., pp. 73, 74.]

Your magazine of November, 1864 (p. 623), contains a short notice of the once great and famous fair of St. Giles, near Winchester, entitled " The Last Shade of an Expiring Fair." The fair of St. Giles commenced on September 12, and lasted for sixteen days, during which time the jurisdiction of the mayor and the city courts were in abeyance. The city courts of old were held every Wednes- day and Friday, and at the end of the proceedings of the court day, which immediately preceded September iz, the rolls invariably record that " The Court is adjourned from this day by reason of the fair of St. Giles', and the cessation of the jurisdiction of the mayor and bailiffs during the time of the said Fair." Another anniversary of this fair has since passed by, and, to quote the words of a local print, "At last, we believe, we can consistently announce that the once famed 'St. Giles's Hill Fair 'is become a thing of the past. The anniversary of this ancient and far-famed mart for cattle, sheep, pigs, provisions, clothing, etc., fell on Tuesday (September 12); but literally speaking, there was nothing at all to constitute a fair on the hill ; no booth, no stand, not even a huckster with a hand-barrow had ventured to climb the height in the hope of earning a few half- pence ; and a solitary ' Punch and Judy ' affair sought a temporary consolation in the back streets of the city during the day, doing but a very dull trade." This fair is now a matter of history, and can never be revived. The Bishop's court in olden time was held under a large tent known as " the Pavilion," the officers and judges being appointed by the bishop. Dr. Cowel, in his Law Dictionary, explains that, "Justices of the Pavilion are certain judges of a ' Pye- powder Court,' of a most transcendent jurisdiction, anciently

Winchester, 145

authorized by the Bishop of Winchester, at a fair held on St. Giles's Hill near that city." I have now before me an instrument or letters- patent of William Wayn-flete, Bishop of Winchester, dated at his manor of Waltham, August 26, 1452, appointing Michael Skyllyng, Esq., chief justice of his Court of the Pavilion, in the county of Southampton, held upon the hill of St. Giles, in the Soke of Win- chester in the said county. The bisiiop empowers him to do all and singular the things which pertain 10 the office, and commands all his officers and ministers to obey and assist the said Michael in the per- formance of his official duties. He was to receive for his services j£io annually, to be paid immediately after the close of the fair by the treasurer of Wolvesey ; and was also to have meat anil drink sufficient and suitable to his position, and a chamber for himself and his servants, also stabling, hay and straw for his horses, annually at the bishop's palace of Wolvesey, during the holding of the said court; and " all other things as the other justices have been accustomed to receive, in our time and in the times of our predecessors." At the fair held in 1450, the city authorities attempted to interfere with the bishop's rights, and a great disturbance ensued. On a due investiga- tion, taken shortly after the occurrence, it was found that the city officials had acted wrongfully, consequently they had to ask the bishop's pardon and forgiveness, and the following indenture was thereupon executed :

" THJS ENDENTURE witnesseth that wherefas] debate was betwcne William by the soefferaunce of God, Bisshop of Wynchcstre on the one partie, and the Maire and the Commune of the Citee of Wyn- chestre on the other partie, upon the Fraunchises and the custumes of the Faire of Seint Gile, that is to seye where the said Bisshop owght to have, and he and his predecessours have hadile fro tyme that no mynde renneth, the kepyng of the Citee of Wynchestre beforesaid, by xvi. dayes withe the troue [tribute], and all the pro- files and custumes, as to take amendes of brede and ale, and all other maner [of] mtsures, that is to sey as to take Busshelles, Galons, and alle other mesures and weyghtes, and to bere thaim to the Pavilion and there to make assaye by the sight of iiij. good persones of the citee, and there to dampne the evil and to deliver agen the good : and that the people of the citee aforesaid sholdecome to the Pavilion to presente crye rered and blode shedde, and all other thinges touching the pece of our Lorde the king, and there to have know- ledge of all maner [of] plees touching the citee, after the usages of the said citee, hadde and used in the tyme of the said Faire with ail other rightes and custumes, that is to saye [from] the day of the vigile of Seinte Gile by xvj. dayes to endure. And the Maire and the commune aforesaid in panic, have distourbed the saide Bisshop at his Faire of Seinte Gile laste paste, in his saide Fraunchises and custumes. They bene accorded in fourme that foloweth, that the

VOL. XVH. 10

1 46 Hampshire.

said Maire and Commune maken covenaunte and graunten that by thaim ne thaire successours, the said Bisshop ne his successours shall not be fro hens forthwarde distourbed, [but] to have the kepyng of the said citee and the custumes above-said and all other profiles towching the saide Faire and the right of his chirche duryng the xvj. dayes aforesaid, in the maner that he and his preder.essours have hadde and used afore this day. And the said Bisshop for hym[selfj and his successours maketh covenaunte, remitteth, and pardoneth the foresaid offence to the Mayre and Commune afore rehersed. In wit- nesse of whiche thinge to the one parte of this endenture remayn- yng anenst [i.e., with or in the possession of] the said Bisshop, the said Maire and Commune have put their commyn scale ; to the other parte of this endenture rema>nyng anenst the seide Maire and Commune the said Bisshop hath putte his seall. Goeven at Wynchestre the thirdde daye of July, the >ere of Grace M.'CCCC.LJ.", and of the reigne of king Harry the vj.th aftre the conqueste, xxix"."

I have taken the above from the copy of this indenture which was delivered to the city officials, and a broken impression of the seal of Bishop Wayneflete (impressed upon red wax), still remains appended to it. I have also collated it with an original copy of the instrument preserved among the episcopal archives of this see.

I find I have a note of two tombstones commemorating officials of this Fair; viz., " Here lyeth the Body of Mr. Richard Seward, jun., Baylif of St. Gileses, who dyed the 18 of Nov., 1690, aged 31 years." "Here lyeth the body of Richard Seward, last Revivor of Giles Faire, who died yc 29 of December, 1687." These stones lie within the communion-rails of the parish church of St. Peter's, Cheesehill, Winchester.

I am, etc., FRANCIS JOSEPH BAIGENT.

[1830, fart II., pp. 401, 402.]

Among the additional MSS. in the British Museum is a volume consisting of the original proceedings of the Mayor and Corporation of Winchester, from 2 Henry IV. to 5 Edward VI., and containing copies of a variety of curious instruments, touching the liberties, customs, and topography of the city. On the last folio but one (the 8ist) is the following memorandum :

"Md y' )exvth daye of October, a" regni Reg' herici octavi xxxviij", there wtre nubred and leit in this blake book Ixxxj levis, and so delyu'id to Mr. Willia heicroft, then mayer."

On the verso of ihe 3ist folio is a curious inventory of the effects of the hospital of St. John in that city, taken in the time of Peter Hulle, Mayor; which, without further preface, I shall transcribe, for the ami.sciiient of your Hampshire readers:

Winchester. 147

!

"Tempe WilTi Wyke Custodis.

" Vitnsilia don? s'ci Johis. — This present indent'e berith' wittenez th' Petrus Hulle,* Mayre of the cite of Wynchestr', & all' the Com- mez of the same Cite hath' delyu'ed to s' William Wyke to our" kep' of our' hous of synt Joh'nis of Wynchestr' al our' goodes and Catellis vnderwrite. Firste viij Corpora?, iiij .tuellis for the autres in the Churche goode & v hode,f ij litel tuellis for the lauytory olde, j paxebrede of siluer & ou' gyld' & j neth' paxbrede, & a hede of syn" John' the Baptie of alabastre ; j Box of siluer w'oute ouer gylHe, ij Chales of siluer w'ynne ouer gylde, j Chales of siluer ygylde w'oute, ij ymagez of syn John' the Baptie of alabastre, j ymage of oure lady of alabastre, v chothisj of sylke & a litel pelew, viij p'ie§ vestimentez w' all' the apparelP, ij surplis feble, j awbe w' parurys, j Cristalstone, j Box w' dyu's reliquis, iij Missalez, ij Antiphon's, ij Portous,|| vj sawters, ij legendez, ij Grayellis, j episteler, j Marteloge and vij other diuerse bokes, iij sakeryng belles, iiij Cruettez, ij lampes of brasse, j mettableU w' ij trestallis, ij belles for the Churche w' the Trunke pond, viij c. 1., j forme, ij Meteclothis conteynyng in lenthe xiiij zerdes, w' a tuwelP conteynyng in lenth" iij zerdes & a half, ij Basoms & j lauer, j litel Morter of Brasse for Spices, to pounde on', weying xij Ib. ; iiij Braspottes, j belle and j lite!!' posnette,** j hangynglau', xj payre of Shetes, iij payre blankettz, xxiijtt keu'lytes, j Crowe, j Spade, j Shouele, j howe.JJ j Rake, j Spytele, j Dongpyke, j whel- barew, j bounde w' Ire, j Cofer in the Chambre w' Munimentez and Charles. In cui' rei testimon', &c."

Some account of this hospital may be found in Milner's " History," vol. ii., p. 194, from which may be learned how it came under the administration of the city magistrates, and its recent appropriation as a council-chamber of the corporation. I will only make a short extract, " In the dust-hole'1'' (writes the historian) " near the apart- ments of the windows, amongst other curious antiques, is seen the figure of St. John the Baptist's head in the dish, being the bust of the holy patron of the house which formerly stood over the principal doorway." In all probability this is the very head of alabaster speci- fied in the above inventory.

Yours, etc., HANTONIENSIS.

* Peter Hulle, or Hille, was Mayor of Winchester the 2Oth Henry VI., 1442, as appears from fol. z6b of the same MS. His name will not be found in the list of Mayors printed at the end of Milner's " History of Winchester," which I suspect to be in great measure a fabrication, for I cannot find in it one name in ten of the Mayors recorded in the " Black Book," a series of which might be ex- tracted from thence with great facility.

f Old. % Clothes? § Pair.

|i Breviaries.— See Tyrwhitt's note on Chaucer, v. 13061.

If Meat-table.

** Pipkin. tt Counterpanes. Jt Hoe,

IO — 2

1 48 Hampshire.

[1829, Part /., //. 105, 106.]

The venerable episcopal residence at Winchester, called Wolvesey Castle, situate at a short distance from the College, was erected on the site of a more ancient palace, by Henry de Blois, Bishop of Winchester, about the year 1138. Its strength was soon evinced by the siege which it withstood against the united forces of Robert Earl of Gloucester and David King of Scotland ; and Henry II., on his coming to the crown, caused it to be dismantled The castle, however, soon became again a place of great strength, and continued to be the residence of the Bishop of Winchester till it was finally destroyed by order of Cromwell in 1646.

The principal ruins that now remain belonged to the keep. Their appearance about thirty years since is thus described by Dr. Milner in his " History of Winchester" :

"The keep appears to have been an imperfect parallelogram, extend- ing about 250 feet east and west, and 160 north and south. The area, or inside of the quadrangle, was 150 feet in length and no in breadth, which proves the wings of the building to have been 50 feet deep. The tower which flanks the keep to the south-east is square, sup- ported by three thin buttresses faced with stone. The intermediate space, as well as the building in general, on the outside, is composed of cut flints and very hard mortar, a coat of which is spread over the whole ; the north-east tower, which advances beyond its level, is rounded off at the extremity. In the centre of the north wing, which has escaped better than the other wings, is a doorway leading into a garden, which is defended by two small towers, and has a Pointed arch. Hence there is reason to suspect that it is of more modern construction than the rest of the building. The inside of the quadrangle, towards the court, was faced with polished freestone, as appears from the junction of the north and east wings, which is the most entire morsel in the whole mass, and exhibits a specimen of as rich and elegant work as can be produced from the twelfth century; we there view the wallet ornament and triangular fret, which adorn the circular arches, still remaining ; together with the capitals, and a corbel bust, executed with a neatness unusual at that early period.

" Wolvesry is stated to have derived its name from the tribute of wolves' heads, imposed on the Welsh by King Edgar, and which, it is asserted, was ordered to be paid here."

The picturesque remains of this episcopal and castellated palace, as they now appear, are faithfully represented in the subjoined en- graving (see Plate I.). They are of considerable extent, but without any prominent architectural features. . . .

Though the architecture of the palace has few enrichments, it possesses sufficient interest to command notice. The antiquary will be gratified by the etamination of the mutilated carved work of

Winchester. \ 49

its windows and arches ; there is scarcely one of either entirely per- fect, and the massy stone and flint walls of its towers are observable for their strength and the neatness of their construction.

Wrought in the solid walls, and occasionally disclosed, are frag- ments of early Norman sculpture, which we may fairly presume to have belonged to the palace built by William the Conqueror near the north-west corner of the cathedral churchyard, and which was utterly demolished by Bishop Henry de Blois, who rebuilt the palace of Wolvesey, of which nothing now remains than fragments of the keep. Originally the plan was a parallelogram, and its situation within the inclosed area, which was spacious, near the north-west angle. Its principal gateway faced the north. The north-east and north-west angles were defended by massy semicircular towers. Within the keep was a court which, besides the entrance before described, had two other gateways, one on the west, the other on the south side.

This vast and massy building was encompassed by a lofty wall, embattled and defended by round or square towers placed at irre- gular intervals. Its precinct joined that of the cathedral towards the south-east.

H.

[1842, Part I., pp. S3S.S36.]

A discovery has been made by the falling of a portion of the eastern wall, which incloses the palace at Wolvesey, of a coffin or sepulchre, consisting of blocks of stone, varying from six to ei^ht or ten inches, as white and fresh as it just worked, well squared, and jointed with a very thin coat of mortar. It was about 6 feet 6 inches long, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and i foot 6 inches deep, lying east and west, the head or arched part being at the west. The top not wholly covered, but arched over about hall way, somewhat resembling a child's cradle, the stones well jointed, and corresponding in every respect with the other part. Two teeth, one in a small piece ot the jaw and the joint of the shoulder, were the only remains found, although the contents were strictly examined. These remains were found under the foundation of the wall, which appears to have been constructed similarly to every other part of the city wall that has offered itself lor examination of flints and mortar, of a yellowish colour, so firm and solid as almost to resist any effort to separate it.

Milner says De Blois, on building his castle (1138), extended the walls so much as to destroy the rectangular form of the city as fortified by the Romans, so that the site on which tlie present discovery is made was, in all probability, outside of the earliest wall.

It is very evident the principal wall, nearly 6 feet thick at the base, has been strengthened by another on the outside of it, of about 4 feet, with mortar quite different in colour, and not by any means so hard, and the small space between them is filled with rubbish.

1 50 Hampshire,

The earlier history of Wolvesey is that Kinegils, soon after his conversion in 635, built a palace there, which Kenewahl, his son, gave to Saint Birinus for his residence, and that of succeeding bishops. After this, nothing seems to be known relating to it, except the payment of the tribute of the wolves' heads, until the time of De Blois.

W. B. B. Wolmer.

[1783, Part /.,;>. 392.]

In Warton's "History of English Poetry," vol. i., p. 307, note, is the following passage, " Thus John, the prior of St. Swithin's at Winches- ter, in 1280, is commissioned, by brief from the King, to supervise large repairs done by the sheriff in the Castle of Winchester, and the royal manor of Wolmer. MS. Registr. Priorat. Quat. 19, fol. 3."

I wish Mr. Warton, or somebody who has access to the above register, to examine it with a view to the caitle or building in the royal manor of Wolmer, as it seems to be that one on King John's Hill, about which your correspondent " F. F.," in your Magazine of last month desires to be informed.

Yours, etc., ACADEMICUS.

Yately.

[1794, Part If., pp. 984-986.]

The parish of Yately, in the county of Hants, and hundred of Crundall, is extensive, consisting of three tithings, viz., Hawley, Cove, and the inner tithing. There is only one manor, which is called the Manor of Hall Place, over which the Manor of Crundall is para- mount. It belongs to the Dean and Chapter of Winchester; but, under that body, has for some time past been held by the family of Wyndham, the last of whom was Hiliier Wadham Wyndham, Esq., who died five years ago. He was a bachelor, and of a singular turn of mind, being extremely reserved; and from the year 1780 (the time of the riots), when he happened to be in London, until he died, was never known to go out in his carriage. His interest in this estate devolved at his decease to the Hon. James Everard Arundel, who married his only sister.

The manor-house, situated near the church, is an ancient edifice, apparently as old as the reign of Elizabeth or James I. It is now let as a farm to Mr. Richard Goodchild. There were in this house, at the time of Mr. Wyndham's decease, many pictures, most of (hem family ones, and also a considerable library of books and MSS., jircat part of which were probably collected by Mr. W.'s father, who, besides other attainments, was a good mechanic, and left proofs of his skill in that way by a curious dial in the garden, which, with a large house-clock, still preserved, are said to have been of his own making.

Yately. 1 5 1

The family of Diggle are in possession of the next best estate in the parish, and have a handsome mansion, called Calcott House, now, together with their whole estate in this parish, to be sold. A good house here is inhabited by Geo. Parker, Esq. ; it belongs to Mr. Terry.

A farmhouse in this tithing is said to have been in former times the residence of Lord Montegle, but of this there is no internal evidence. It is a small old building, standing upon a hill, with a good prospect.

In Hawley tithing, at a place called Minley Warren, is a large old-fashioned house, which, according to tradition, was the residence of that daring person Blood, who attempted to steal the crown in the reign of Charles II.

The greatest part of the parish is uninclosed, the soil chiefly a black gravelly sand, abounding with springs. All the estates are copyhold excepting a few acres belonging to Mr. Diggle.

The church consists of a nave, south aisle, wooden tower and spire, as also a chancel and porch ; but there is nothing remarkable in the outside of the building. At the entrance of the churchyard is an odd kind of wooden gate with a pulley and rope ; the gate has upon it the date 1625.

There are in the church these monuments :

Chancel. — On the floor is a brass, with the figure of a woman with a ruff and curious head-dress. Over head :

Arms effaced.

" EDWARUO ORMESBY, primo .... peperit filios 4, et filias . . . ." Ermine, three roundels impaling ....

"ANDREA SMYTHE, secundo M . . . peperit filios 3, & filias 3." Underneath is this inscription :

" Hie sepuha jacet ELIZABETHA, quonda Robert! Morfletti, armigeri, filia, que D'no migravit 10 cal. Septembris, anno salutis humanae MCCCCCLXXViij0."

A mural monument of plain black and white marble, with an urn over it.

On a bend cotised three fusils ermine, impaling a fesse between three crescents.

"Memorise sacrum. Here lyeth the body of SIR RICHARD RYVES, knight, sheriff and alderman of London, who was born in the county of Dorset!, descended of an ancient and gentile family of that name in the said county. He married Joyce, the daughter of Henry Lee, of London, merchant ; the piety of which relict lady hath erected this monument to the memory of her dear deceased husband, intending, when she shall lay down her earthly tabernacle, to make her bed in the same grave, there to rest with him in hope of a joyful resurrection. He departed this life in the 60 yeare of his age, Aug. 23, in the year of the incar- nation of our Saviour Christ Jesus, 1671."

152 Hampshire.

On a flat stone on the floor :

" Here lyeth the body of JOHN HELYAR, esq., second son of William Hetyar, tsq., of Coker, in the county of Somerset, by Rachel, co heiress of Sir Hugh Wyndham, of Phillesdon, in the county of Dorset, knight. He had two wives; the first, Elizabeth, sole heiress of Philihert Cogan, of Chard, in the county of Somerset, esq. ; his second wife was Christian, daughter and heiress of Ji'hn Ryves, of Kensington, in the county of Middlesex, esq., by Christian, daughter of William Helyar, of Coker, esq. Elizabeth, his first wife, died at Chard, and was buried, leaving issue by him one child, Elizabeth, wife of Thomas Wyndham, esq. Christian, his second wife, died without issue, and lies buried in this chancel. He died Dec. 26, 1721. Christian died March 18, 1719."

The arms over this stone are a cross fleury between four mullets, Helyar, with an escutcheon of pretence, three leaves, Cogan, and impaling Ryves as before.

On the floor is another stone :

" Here lyeth the body of THOMAS WYNPHAM. esq., of Hawkchurch, in the county of Dorset. He married Elizabeth Helyar, daughter and sole heiress of John Helyar, esq., of this parish. He left behind him two children, one son and one daughter, who in him lost a truly valuable and indulgent father, as well as a most sinceie and real friend. He died June 31, 1763, aged 66."

Arms : Wyndham, with an escutcheon of pretence, Ryves as before. Another is inscribed :

"Here lyeth the body of HELYAR WADHAM WYNDHAM, esq., son and heir of Thomas and Elizabeth W. He died Feb. 13, 1789, aged 64."

There is also a mural monument to Walter Phillips, late of this parish, gent., who died 1715, set. 80.

Arms : Or, on a chevron sable, three birds' heads erased argent. Crtscent for difference impaling, arg., two bars for Goodwin.

In the body ol the church are these brasses on the floor :

(1) A man and his wife.

" Pray for the soules of WILI.'M RYGGS, and TOMASYN, hys wyf ; the whiche Will'm decessede the xxix day of August, ye yer of or Lord MV'xill, on whose soule J'hu have m'ci. "

At the bottom, four sons and seven daughters.

(2) A man habited in a robe.

'•Piaye for (he soule of RICHARD GALE, which dyed the yer of o'r Lord

MVCIII. On whose soule J'hu have m'cy."

(3) Man and woman ; the head-dress of the latter with long lappets, and she has a girdle hanging down.

"Praye for the soules of WILLIAM LAWERD. and AGNES, bis wyfe, the which William decessed the xvi day of August, the yere of our Lord God MVC&XXII. On whose soules J'hu have mercy. Amen."

Underneath — mother and nine children.

(4) Another brass, inscription torn off; an aged man in a close garment, with a ruff.

In the church are various mural monuments and hatchments of

Isle of Wight. 153

the family of Diggle, all of them modern. The Arms are, Gules, a chevron between thrte daggers, blades argent, hafts or. Crest, a boar's head erased proper.

There is likewise a hatchment, Quarterly, i and 4 argent, 2 and 3 gules, a fret or ; over all a fess azure, for Norris ; a gentleman of which name inherits a good house in Hawley tithing, now in- habited by Mrs. D'gby, widow of the Dean of Durham.

The church, which is only a curacy, has five bells, thus inscribed :

(1) [No date.] Sancta Katarina, ora pro nobis.

(2) 1577. Love the Lord the God ....

(3) 1613. William Yare made me.

(4) 1617. RE. Reprove me not, Lord, in thy wrathe.

(5) 1617. RE. Our hope is in the Lord.

The impropriator of the great tithes is John Limbery, Esq.

J.C.

Isle of Wight.

[1789, ran it., p. 808.]

I send you a little memoir, which may gratify some of your antiquarian readers, as it is a pretty plain proof that, in the time of Julius Caesar (when the author from whom it is taken wrote), there was a communication by land, except at high water, between England and the Isle of Wight. The author I cite is Diodorus Siculus, who, in lib. iv., p. 101, edit. 1604, speaking of the tin found in Britain, says :

" They carry it (the tin) into a certain island lying in the front of Britain, called Ictis. For, at low water, the space between being dry, they carry great quantities of tin thither in waggons. By the way, there is a very singular circumstance attending the islands of this neighbourhood, lying between Europe and Britain. For at high water the intermediate passage being overflowed, they have the ap- pearance of islands ; but at low water, when the sea has retired, and left a large space dry, they are visibly nothing more than peninsulae."

And, N.B. (in confirmation of what this author hath said), that between the Isle of Wight and the western end of the Hampshire coast, is still to be seen at low water a rippling on the surface, which is probably the course of the isthmus alluded to above.

Yours, etc., ARCH^EUS Surr.

Brixton.

[1863, Part //., /. 441.]

The Rev. W. Fox, of Brixton, has deposited in the Newport Museum, a British urn containing burnt human bones, which he recently excavated at the very edge of the cliff opposite Brixton. It was inverted upon a flat piece of clay resembling a tile.

1 54 Hampshire.

[1760, />/. 552,553-]

CARISBROOK CASTLE.

Carisbrook Castle stands on a beautiful and exalted eminence, near the centre of the Isle of Wight, overlooking the village of Carisbrook. It was a strong fortress before the use of firearms ; its antiquity is not known ; but it is thought to have been built in the time of the ancient Britons, and repaired l>y the Romans after they had subdued this island in an expedition uniler the conduct of Vespasian, about forty-five years before the Christian era. Whitagar, a follower of Cerdic, King of the West-Saxons, rebuilt this castle, from whom it then took the name of VV'hitgaraburgh, which was afterwards contracted to Carisbrook. It was repaired by Richard de Rivers, Earl of Devon, in the reign of Henry I., and afterwards by Queen Elizabeth. King Charles I. was a prisoner in it thirteen months. There is a well belonging to it upwards of 210 feet deep, that supplies it with excellent water, drawn up by an ass's working in a wheel of 15 feet diameter, in the same manner as a dog turns a spit. There was likewise another well in the keep, or dungeon, near 300 feet deep, which is now almost filled up with rubbish. Belong- ing to it there is a very pretty chapel, in which divine service is performed. The castle falls to ruins very fast. The governor's house was converted to a hospital for the sick of the camp of 1758, the rooms still remaining in the same condition in which they were left.

[1867, Part I., pp. 791, 792.

COMBLY.

On the northern side of Arreton Down, in a very retired dell, and less known than most places in the island, lies Combly Farm. Backed by down land, and fronting one of the least populated and fertile spots, its aspect is somewhat triste and lonely.. Upon this farm, in several spots, Mr. John Lock, jun., has found the vestiges of Roman buildings, a very significant fact in connetion with other discoveries of a like character made of late years. When Sir Richard Worsley published his "History of the Isle of Wight," he had not a word to print on Roman remains. Now it is ascertained that there is scarcely a part of the island where there are not traces of settle- ments. Very recently some Roman urns, of large dimensions but much injured from the wet clayey soil in which they were imbedded, were found at Swanmore, near Ryde, and are deposited in the museum of that town.

C. ROACH SMITH.

[1787, ran l., p. 377.]

FRESHWATER.

I send you three drawings of picturesque scenes in the Isle of Wight (see Plate I.).

Isle of Wight. 155

No. i is a view of Freshwater Gate, a rocky wild bay, on the west coast of the isle ; it is remarkable for what the inhabitants call a ground tide, which is a violent agitation of the water, at a time when the other parts of the shore are becalmed. This phenomenon is supposed to he occasioned by a bottom interspersed with broken rocks. The ground tide roars so loudly as to be heard at four or five miles distance.

Round the corner, over which a sea-gull is represented soaring, is the cave, drawn in Nos. 2 and 3. This beautiful grot is only to be visited when the tides run remarkably low, which is probably the reason of its being so little known, although so well worth exploring. It has two entrances. The height of the main arch seems to be from twenty to thirty feet, and the pier between the two openings seems totally unable to sustain the chalk rock above it. The cave does not run very far back under the rock before it grows too low to be followed without much inconvenience.

In the month of January, 1767, the writer of this account viewed this cavern in a condition frightfully picturesque. Its floor was strewed with the remains of a French vessel, which, with its whole crew, had perished on that inhospitable coast.

J. P. A.

[1804, Part II., p. 911.]

ST. CATHERINE'S TOWER.

Speaking of St. Catherine's Chapel, or Pharos, in the Isle of Wight, Pennant says, "Divines, who seek for the completion of prophecies, may have more comfort and authentic proof, from the recent appearance of Shanklin Down, from the tower of St. Cathe- rine's. Within memory of man, another, called Week Down, inter- fered so far as to render the former scarcely visible from the tower ; but at present Shanklin Down appears from that ancient structure 100 feet higher than that of Week; so that in this instance at least ' every valley shall be exalted, and every mountain shall be made low.' I well remember the infinite satisfaction I gave to a truly learned and pious rlivine on this subject, by relating to him that the latter measures of the height of our boasted Snowdon made it about 150 feet lower than it was in the preceding century."

Yours, etc., QUERIST.

[1757, /• 176-]

I send you four views of the tower of St. Catherine's, which stands upon the summit of St. Catherine's Hill Down, on the back of the Isle of Wight, about 750 feet higher than high-water mark, and about half a mile from the sea, commanding the most extensive view, both by sea and land, of any place in Britain. It is part of a consecrated building of great antiquity, as appears by the Winchester register, in which there is this entry :

156 Hampshire.

" Waller de Langsterell, admissus ad Hermitorium supra montem de Chale in insula Victis, Idil. Octobris, A.D. 1312."

The figure of this tower within is quadrangular, and without octa- gonal ; each side both of ihe ociagon and quadtangle is just 4 feet, its height to the roof is 27 feet, and the perpendicular height of the roof is 2 feet.

It seems to be a Gothic imitation of the temple of the Eight Winds at Athens, which was built by Andronicus, whom Vitruvius calls Cyrrhastes at Athens.

I have added a view of this temple, which was of marble; on each side was carved, in bas-relief, a representation of the wind of that quarter which it fronted ; and on the point of the roof, which was a pyramid of marble, a brazen Triton was placed, as a weathercock, holding a small rod in his right hand, which pointed to the quarter from which the wind blew.

The tower of St. Catherine has been long a sea-mark, and has betm of the most important service by directing our marineis to avoid ihe adjacent rocky shores in navigating the channel. You will see by the south view that it must very soon fall at once into rubbish if it is not effectually repaired ; and the sudden disappearance of it, before the accident can be known at sea, will probably occasion the loss of more vessels and lives than the most dreadful hurricane that ever happened. I am, yours, etc., A. B.

The following article is omitted :

1816, part ii., pp. 116 117. Hampshire during the time of the Romans. References to previous volumes of the Genllemans Magazine Library : —

Prehistoric Antiquities: — Stone implements found at Boffington ; human remains at Winchester and in the Isle of Wight ; barrows in the New Yoiesl.— Archceology, part i. , pp. 61, 131-135.

Roman Remains: — Andover, Bishopstoke, Bramdean, Broughton, Ropley, Thruxton, Silchester, Winchester, Carisbrooke, I.W., Combly, I.W. — Romano- British Remains, part i., pp. 107-132.

Anglo-Saxon Remains:— Skeletons near Basingstoke ; toilette implements in the Isle of Wight. — Archeology, part ii., pp. 177, 178.

Architectural: — Basingstoke, Holy Ghost Chapel ; Tichfuld, Southampton, Netley Abbey, Purchester Castle, St. Cross Hospital, Winchester Cathedral, Carisbrooke Castle, I.W. — Architectural Antiquities, part i., pp. 180-183, 195 200, 361, 362, 363 365, 371, 373, 377-380, 382; Christ- church, Romsey, Winchester. — Achitectural Antiquities, part ii., pp. 5, 15, 231, 232, 264, 265, 266.

Ecclesiological : — Christchurch, St. Cross, Winchester. — Ecclesiology, pp 112, 116, 123, 124, 134, 135, 172, 208, 209, 247, 248, 274, 275.

Folk Lore:— Elm-tree at Basingstoke, court leet at Bamber, Winchester " Domum." — Manners and Customs, pp. 191, 226, 227, 235-240.

Herefordshire.

HEREFORDSHIRE.

[1817, Part //., //. 10-13.]

ANCIENT STATE AND REMAINS.

British Inhabitants. — Silures.

Roman Province. — Britannia Secunda. Stations. — Magna, Kent- chester ; Ariconium, near Ross ; Bravinium, Brandon.

Saxon Heptarchy. — Mercia.

Antiquities. — Cromlech, called King Arthur's Tablet ; Clawdd Offa, or Offa's Dyke ; Hereford Cathedral, College, Black Frier's Cross or Stone Pulpit, White Frier's Cross; Dore and VVigmore Abbeys; Madley Church Crypt ; Cathedral and Canon Peon Fonts ; Brampton Brian, Clifford, Huntingdon, Goodrich, Longtown, Lyon's Hall, Wigmore and Wilton Castles.

In the Cathedral were enshrined the remains of Ethelbert, King of East Anglia, murdered by Offa ; and of its Bishop, St. Thomas de Cantilupe, who died 1282, and was the last English prelate on whom was conferred the honour of canonization. No less than 425 miracles are said to have been performed at his tomb ; and so great was his reputation that his successors changed the ancient arms of the see, which were those of St. Ethelbert, to the paternal bearings of Canti- lupe, which latter are continued to this day.

At Hereford was a house of friars of the Order of St. Anthony of Vienna, whose principal care was to serve those afflicted with St. Anthony's fire, a disorder so named from the relics of that saint being considered as particularly efficacious in its cure. They came into England about 1225, and had only one other house — at London — in this kingdom.

At Monnington, in obscurity, September 20, 1415, died and was buried the enterprising Welsh chieftain, Owen ap Gryffydd fychan, commonly called Owen Glendour.

160 Herefordshire.

PRESENT STATE AND APPEARANCE.

Rivers. — Arrow, Dore, Escle, Frame, Gamar, Garran, Hothny, Leddon, Loden, Lugg, Munnow, Olchron, Pinsley or Oney, Teme, Wadel, Werme, and Wye —

" Meander, who is said so intricate to be, Has not so many turns and crankling nooks as she." — DRAYTON.

Inland Navigation. — Hereford and Gloucester, Leominster canals. Wye river.

Eminences and Views.— Malvern and Hatteril mountains; Ross Church, Symond's Yate, Wigmore Castle, St. Mary's Knoll ; Aeon- bury, Bradnor, Brierley, Capler, Coppedwood, Creden, Cusop, DarbolH, Dinmore, Dog, Doward, Dynedor, Eaton, Frome, Gar- raway, King Arthur's, Lady Lift, Marcle, Marshey, Mawbach, Saddle- bow, Stockley, Tillington, Wall, and Wormesley hills.

Natural Curiosities. — Scenery of the Wye, particularly at Goodrich Castle, Symond's Yate, and the New Wear ; Richard's Castle bone- well, Malvern Holy Wells.

Seats. — Earl of Essex, lord-lieutenant of the county; Belmont, John Matthews, Esq. ; Berrington Park, Lady Rodney ; Burghope,

Tuherville, Esq. ; Croft, Somerset Davies, Esq. ; Downton

Castle, Richard Payne Knight, Esq. ; Eastnor Castle, Lord Somers ; Eywood House, Earl of Oxford ; Foxley, Uvedale Price, Esq. ; Garnons, Sir John Geers Cottercl, Bart. ; Hampton Court, Richard Arkwright, Esq. ; Harewood, Sir Hungerford Hoskins, Bart. ; Home Lacy, Duchess Dowager of Norfolk ; Hope End, Sir Henry Tempest, Bart. ; Kentchurch Court, Richard Philip Scudamore, Esq. ; Long- worth, Robert Phillips, Esq. ; Meend, The, Thomas Symonds, Esq. ; Moccas Court, Sir George Cornwall, Bart. ; Rotherwas, Charles Bodenham, Esq. ; Shobden Court, William Hanbury, Esq. ; Stoke Edith, Edward Foley, Esq. ; Wear, The, William Parry, Esq.

HISTORY.

A.D. 51, on Coxwall Knoll, near Brampton Brian, Caractacus defeated, his wife, daughters, and brothers taken prisoners by Ostorius Scapula, the Roman general, to whom Caractacus himself was after- wards delivered by Cartismandua, Queen of the Brigantes.

A.D. 792, at Sutton Walls, Kthelbert, King of East Anglia, treacherously murdered by Offa, King of Mercia, who had invited him to his palace to marry his daughter.

A.D. 939, at Hereford, the Britons agreed to pay an increased tribute to Athelstan.

A.D. 1055, near Hereford, Ranulph, its Earl, defeated, the city afterwards taken, the cathedral burnt, and its Bishop slain by Gryffydd, Prince of Wales.

AD. 1141, Hereford, under William Talbot, its Earl (a partisan of

History. 161

the Empress Maud), taken by Stephen, who entered with great pomp, and sat crowned in the cathedral.

A.D. 1263, at Hereford, the first act of "hostility by the barons against Henry III. ; Peter Aqua Blanca, its Bishop, being seized by them, confined, and afterwards expelled the kingdom.

A.D. 1265, at Widemarsh, near Hereford, May 28, Prince Edward (afterwards Edward I.), having tired the horses of his guards by racing, jumped on a fresh horse, and escaped from the power of the Earl of Leicester.

A.D. 1326, at Hereford, the Parliament assembled, which, under the influence of the Queen Isabella and her paramour Mortimer, deposed Edward II. ; and by her order, Hut;h de Spencer the younger, Edward's favourite, and Sir Simon de Reding, hanged, and Edmund, Earl of Arundel, beheaded.

A.D. 1401, near Wigmore, Edmund Mortimer, Earl of March, defeated, and in personal combat taken prisoner by Owen Glendour.

A.D. 1434, near Leominster, Owen Glendour's army dispersed by Henry Prince of Wales, afterwards Henry V.

A.D. 1461, at Mortimer's Cross, February 2, Jaspar, Earl of Pem- broke and Lancastrians defeated and 3,800 men slain by Edward Mortimer, Earl of March (afterwards Edward IV.), when Owen Tudor, husband of Catharine of France, and grandfather to Henry VII., was taken prisoner, and shortly afterwards beheaded at Hereford.

A.D. 1553, on Curnah Hill, near Leominister, the adherents of Lady Jane Grey defeated by Hobby Welwayn and Throckmorton, at the head of Mary's partizans.

A.D. 1643, Hereford given up to Sir William Waller and the Parliamentarians, through the cowardice of Sir Richard Cave and Colonel Herbert Price.

A.D. 1645, Hereford, which had been retaken by Barnabas Scuda- more, successfully defended by him in a siege of above a month against the Earl of Leven and the Scots.

BIOGRAPHY.

Beale, John, philosopher, author on " Cyder," seventeenth century.

Blount, Thomas, author on " Manorial Tenures," Orleton (died 1679).

Breton, John, Bishop of Hereford (died 1275).

Carpenter, George, Lord, general, victor at Preston, Pitcher's Ocule, 1667.

Clifford, Rosamund, mistress of Henry II., Clifford.

Clive, Catharine, comic actress, Hereford, 1711.

Coningsby, Sir Thomas, founder of hospital at Hereford, Hampton Court (died 1652).

Cornwall, James, captain, naval hero, Hereford, 1699.

Davies, John, penman and poet, Hereford (died i6r8).

VOL. XVII. II

1 62 Herefordshire.

Devereux, Robert, Earl of Essex, favourite of Elizabeth, Nether- wood, 1567.

Eaton, Adam de, Cardinal, scholar (died 1379).

Edwin, Mary, Lady Dering, beautiful and amiable, Hereford, 1650.

Ely, Humphrey, Roman Catholic divine (died 1604).

Garrick, David, "English Roscius," Hereford, 1716.

Gerthinge, Richard, penman, Hereford, seventeenth century.

Grandesson, John, Bishop of Exeter, Ashperton (died 1369).

Guillim, John, herald, Hereford, 1565.

Gwynne, Eleanor, actress, mistress of Charles II., Hereford, 1640.

Hackluyt, Richard, compiler of " Voyages," Eaton, about 1553.

Harley, Hon. Edward, auditor of the imprest, benefactor, Brompton Brian, 1664.

Havard, William, song writer, author of " Banks of the Lugg," Hereford, 1734.

Hereford, Roger of, author of " Judicial Astrology " (flor. 1 170).

Kyrle, John, "the man of Ross" (died 1724, set. 90).

Lawrence, Stringer, East Indian major-general, Hereford, 1697.

Lempster, or Leominster, William, divine, Leominster.

Longmore, Edward, " Herefordshire Colossus," 7 feet 6 inches high (died 1777).

Orleton, Adam de, Bishop of Winchester, Orleton (died 1345).

Ross, John, Bishop of Exeter, Ross, 1719.

Smith, Miles, Bishop of Gloucester, one of the translators of the Bible, Hereford, 1550.

MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS.

In Brampton Brian Church is entombed the famous Lord High Treasurer Robert Harley, first Earl of Oxford, founder of the Harleian Library, and in Tiltey Church his brother, Auditor Harley, founder of Brampton Brian School.

In Dore Churchyard lies its rector and historian, Matthew Gibson.

Downton Castle is the residence of Richard Payne Knight, Esq., author of "The Landscape," "Progress of Civil Society," etc.; and Foxley, of Uvedale Price, Esq., author of " Essays on the Picturesque."

Home Lacy was the seat of the Scudamores, of whom Sir James was the legendary " Sir Scudamore " of Spenser's " Faerie Queen." His son, created by Charles I. Vicsount Scudamore, first cultivated and introduced the " red streak " apple. In this house Pope, when visiting the last Viscount, wrote his " Man of Ross," and in it is preserved a portrait of the great Lord Strafford, copied from Vandyck in crayons by Pope.

In Hope Church was interred Sir Thomas Coningsby, founder of

Aconbury. 163

the hospital that bears his name in Hereford for worn-out soldiers and superannuated servants.

At Ingeston House Serjeant Hopkyns entertained James I. with a Morrice dance, performed by ten persons, whose united ages exceeded i.ooo years. Of this "nest of Nestors," as Fuller calls them, Ralph Wigley was in when he danced, and lived twenty-one years after. At Eaton, in February, 1800, died Margaret Mapps, aged no.

At Ledbury, in 1735, died old Jacob Tonson, the bookseller (the subject of a satirical triplet by Dryden), on whom was written an epitaph in this Magazine for February, 1736, which was closely copied by Franklin in his epitaph on himself.

At Marcle, February 7, 1575, about two acres of land were detached from the side of the hill, and destroyed the chapel of Kynaston in its fall. — Sir Richard Baker, in his " Chronicles," gravely says, that the hill kept walking from Saturday evening 'till Monday noon, when it stood still ! Phillips (who lies buried in Hereford Cathedral) mentions the wonder in his English Georgic, "Cyder."

Adam de Orleton was a principal agent for Queen Isabella, " she- wolf of France," and Mortimer, in the deposition of Edward II. ; and conniving at his murder, addressed his keepers in the famous enigma :

"Edwardum regem occidere nolite timere bonum est,"

which, if pointed after "nolite," dissuades from the murder; but, if after " timere," incites to its commission. In Orleton Church was buried its native Blount, author of " Fragmenta Antiquitatis, or Antient Tenures and Customs," which was reprinted by Josiah Beckwith in 1784, and again by Mr. Beckwith's son in 1815.

At Ross is the house, the portrait, and the monument of the bene- volent John Kyrle, Pope's " Man of Ross ;" born in Dymock parish, Gloucestershire.

At Whitborne died and was buried, without "monument, inscription, or stone," the learned Bishop Godwin, author of "De Prassulibus Anglise." BYRO.

Aconbury.

[1787, p. 949.]

As I lately had the pleasure of looking over the first volume of Mr. Cough's very elegant and ingenious work on "Sepulchral Monuments," I noticed several plates of slone coffins found in Aconbury chapel and Dore church. As I do not recollect ever having seen any engraving of the former, I have enclosed a drawing of it, thinking it might prove an object of curiosity to some of your readers. (See Plate I.)

The farmhouse seen in the view is fitted up from the remains of a nunnery, of the Augustine order, that stood on the same spot. Dugdale, in his account of "Religious Houses" in Herefordshire, says, "By inquisition taken the 49th of Henry III., it was found that

1 1 — 2

1 64 Herefordshire.

the Lady Margary Lacy, who had all the forest of Aconbury (excepting Adelston) by gift of King John, founded there a monastery of nuns." The charter of Henry III. dated soth year, recites and confirms the foundation of this nunnery : " Catherine Lacy gave them the lands of Corsham, confirmed by Walter Clifford. — Margaret, the wife of the said Walter Sybilla Ewias, and William Brewias, knight, were all benefactors to this nunnery."

Aconbury, with Dewsall and other considerable estates in this neighbourhood, formerly belonged to the Chandois family, who occasionally made Dewsall their residence. The principal part of the old house has been pulled down, and the remainder converted into a handsome farmhouse.

Yours, etc., J. WATHEN.

Burford, Dilwyn, Weobly, and Stretford.

[1827, Part II., pp. 306-308.]

My friend Major Evans, of Eyton Hall, Herefordshire, has kindly put into my hands the copy of an entry made by a Vicar of Dilwyn in the oldest register book of that parish, relative to the monuments in the Churches of Burford, Dilwyn, Weobly, and Stretford, in his county; and aware of your wishes to preserve and communicate topographical notices, I at once transmit the same to you.

BURFORD.

" In the baron of Burford's seat is seen one of this family in armour, with these armes : Cornewall on a label of three poynts ; and this inscription thus spelled in cap. : Heere lyeth the bodye of Edmonde Cornewayle, sonne and heire aparante of Sr Thomas Cornewayle, Kn'. whych Edmonde dyed in the yeare of his age 20, and in the yeare of our Lord God MDIII."

Another monument in Burford Church :

" Here lyeth the body of the noble princess Elizabeth, daughter of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, own sister to king Henry ye fourth, wife of John Hollande, Earle of Huntingdon and Duke of Exeter, after whose death she married Sr John Cornewayle, Kn' of the Garter and Lord Fanehope, and died the fourth year of Henry VI. An. Dom. MCCCCXXVI."

DILWYN.

A rough drawing of the monument is here inserted, and beneath it the following :

" On the north side of the high chancel, in ye wall, is .... son of the noble family of the Talbots, whereof John Lord Talbot, s .... of Blackmere Furnival Verdon, governor of Anjou and Main .... created Earle of Shrewsbury : he was also Earle of W .... was slayn in Aquitaine in 32 Henry .... buried in Whitchurch porch, Shr ....

This is a supposed prior of the an .... Manour of Dilwyn, whose armes are .... North and South windows of the great . . . ."

Weobly and Strdford. 165

WEOBLY.

" Vernon in Weobly Chancel."

Here is inserted a rough drawing of the monument with a single effigy.

"In Weobly Church, also, almost opposite to the former monument."

Here again is a drawing in similar style of the monument, on which are two effigies, and the vicar has written upon it the name of " Devereux."

STRETFORD.

"This parish church of Stretford, anciently dedicated to Sts Cosmo and Damian, hath two fair ancient monuments therein, supposed to be of the De la Barrs, so like one another, that in touching off the one you also represent the other. His shield, which is the same with the armes of another in ye north window of the great chancel of the next parish, called Dilwyn, are, Azure, a bend Argent cotized Or, between 6 martlets of the same.

" In the same parish is seen a well, superstitiously called S1 Cosmo and S< Damian's well."

Of the churches mentioned in this extract, I have as yet seen the inside of only one, that of Weobly ; but it enables me to go more into detail respecting the monuments noticed in it, than what is stated above. One of these is there assigned by the vicar to the Vernon, the other to the Devereux family.

The manor and castle of Weobly were conveyed by the heiress, Margaret de Lacy, to her husband John de Vernon, who died in 1274, and was again transferred by Margaret, the third daughter of his grandson Theobald, to her third husband, Sir John Crophull, who died seized of Weobly in 1383. It became the property of their granddaughter Agnes, whose father had died during their lifetime. Sir Walter Devereux, M.P., the executor of the Earl of Essex, married this Agnes, by which he acquired possession of Weobly, of which he died seized in 1402. His widow survived him one-and-thirty years, leaving at that time a son of his father's name, three others, John, Richard, and Thomas, and two daughters. Walter espoused Elizabeth the daughter of Sir Thomas Bromwich, knight. He died in 1436, leaving a son, Sir Walter, but fifteen years old, and this young man married Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Sir John Merbury or Marbury, of Lyon's Hall, in the immediate vicinity.

I have traced down the possessors of Weobly to this period, because it brings us to the date of the monuments.

There is, however, one very decisive fact that must prevent our attributing, with the vicar, either of these monuments to the Devereux family, or to the Vernons ; and that is, that on the helmets of the male effigies on both there; is the same crest ; and it is decidedly nut

1 66 Herefordshire.

that borne by them, that of the former being out of a ducal coronet Or a talbot's head ar. eared gu. ; and of the latter, a demi-woman proper, etc., a boar's head erased, etc., a tiger's head erased, etc., or a lion rampant gules.

Now that of the monuments is, on a chapeau a man's head, wreathed about the temples, and such was the crest of the Marbury family.

Sir John Marbury was Sheriff of the county in the years 1405, 1415, 1419, 1425, and 1429, and we find by the Rolls of Parliament had an annuity granted to him in 1427 for his military services in the reigns of Henry V. and Henry VI. He married Alicia, the daughter and heiress of Sir John Penbruge, or Pembridge, knight, whose brother (I believe) Sir Richard Pembruge, K.G., died in 1375, and his effigy still remains in the cathedral of Hereford. . . .

The monument having on it the two figures, is on the south side of the chancel, and may be thus described : male figure, in the armour which characterizes the early part of the reign of Henry VI., viz., on its head a basinet encircled by the wadded orle, richly ornamented. To this is attached a gorget of plate, the armpits guarded by fan-like palettes, the breast-plate of two pieces, upper and lower, the abdomen covered by eight successive taces, from the lowest of which depend two small tuiles, a military girdle, besides which the sword-belt bendwise, a collar of SS round the neck, the plate below the genouil- liere indented, cuisses, jambs, and sollerets of plate, the head reclining on the tournament-helmet, with the cap and crest as before mentioned. The lady in a large cornute reticulated head-dress, but the rest of her costume such as did not last long after the commencement of the reign of Henry VI. These I have no doubt represent John Marbury, and his wife Alicia. The other monument is on the opposite side ot' the chancel, and is in plate armour with taces from below which appears an indented petticoat of mail, and over which is a military belt. He has fangenouillieres, and a basinet protected with an orle, and to it fastened a gorget of plate, like the other a la mentoinere, and the mode of its fastening distinctly shown. The costume of this effigy marks it as being somewhat prior in date to the other.

It has been conjectured that these monuments belonged to the powerful family of Bruges, or Bridges, who resided at Bridge Sellers (now belonging to my friend Sir John Geers Cotterell, Bart., about six miles south of Weobly), and one of the effigies supposed to be that of Sir Simon de Bruges, with whose period, the close of the fourteenth century, the armour will by no means agree. Yet it is very curious that the crest is almost equally applieable to the Bridges as the Marbury family, unless by removing the plaster with which it is coated, the minute distinctive marks should appear. The crests are thus given by Edmondson :

" On a chapeau gu. turned up erm., a man's head side-faced proper,

Stretford. 167

wreathed about the temples or and az. ; on the chapeau five besants in fesse. — Marbury."

"A Saracen's head in profile, couped at the shoulders proper, habited ar., powdered with torteauxes, and wreathed about the temples ar. and sa. — Bruges."

It is unfortunate that no armorial bearings exist to set this matter at rest ; for though above the monument is a wooden shield, on which they were once no doubt emblazoned, this has for many years been deprived of its paint. It is of the same date as the effigies, though I doubt its having ever been actually used in war, as it could not have been suspended from the neck, nor put on the arm, never having had the necessary apparatus. Still there is one fact that must decide in preference for the Marburys, viz., that the man's head is placed on a chapeau.

Of Lyonshall Castle, scarce any part now remains, with the exception of fragments of the outer wall. It lies between Kington and Weobly, about three miles from the former. It was, together with its manor, possessed at the beginning of the reign of Henry III. by Sir Stephen d'Evereux, who then gave the church to the canons of St. Leonard of Pyona. In the reign of Edward I., William Baron Tuchet possessed them, after which I am not aware in what way they fell into the hands of the Marburys.

S. R. MEYRICK. Burghope.

[1791, Part II., pp. 787, 788-]

The old mansion of Burghope, or Burhope, of which I lately sent you a drawing, is situated near the road from Hereford to Leominster, seven miles from the former, on an agreeable eminence, a part of Dinmore Hill. It was for some ages in the family of the Moores ; and from them came to the ancient family of Goodere, which has often enjoyed the honour of knighthood, and been of considerable note in several counties.*

Francis G., of London, who lived in the reign of Henry VIII., purchased Poleswoith nunnery at the Dissolution, and had issue William and Henry, both knights ; Sir Henry, an accomplished person, and of eminent note in that county, suffered imprisonment in behalf of the unfortunate Queen of Scots, t He left two daughters; Frances married to Sir Henry, his eldest brother's son and heir,} whose issue was four daughters. §

Henry G. was living at Baginton 10 Elizabeth. || From this family

* The four lines in p. 793 (in which for " Walker " read " Wathen ") were printed off before this particular discription of Burghope and its owners was received. — liu.

t Camden's "Annals of Queen Elizabeth," 1571-73.

J The other sister, Anne, married Henry Rainsford, of Clifford, in the county of Gloucester. — Dugd.ile.

§ Dugdale's "Warwickshire," 1113, 1114, ed. Thomas.

|| Baronetage.

1 6 8 Herefordsh ire.

descended Edward G., Esq., created baronet Dec. 5, 1707, 6 Anne; knight of the shire for the county of Hereford in the parliament preceding that, and M.P. for Evesham in several since; eighty years old 1727, and died 1739, aged ninety-two, having married Eleanor, only daughter and heir of Sir Edward Dineley, Knight, of Charlton, in the county of Worcester, by Frances, daughter of Lewis Watson, Lord Rockingham. He was the last of the family who resided here; but the property devolved to his eldest son, Sir John Dineley Goodere, who assumed the name of Dineley in respect of the large estate which he inherited from his mother; but, having lived on bad terms with his younger brother, Samuel Dineley G., captain of the Ruby man-of-war, and threatening to disinherit him in favour of his sister's son, John Foot, Esq., of Truro, in Cornwall, it so alarmed the captain that he formed a resolution of murdering him, which he executed Jan. 17, 1741. A friend at Bristol, who knew their mortal antipathy, had invited them both to dine, in hopes of reconciling them, and they4>arted in the evening in seeming friendship; but the captain placed some of his men in the street, near College Green, to carry off his brother, under pretence of his being disordered in his senses, to his ship, where he caused him to be strangled in the cabin by two of the crew, White and Mahony, himself standing at the door. Such an atrocious deed could not long be concealed ; the captain and his two accomplices were tried at Bristol the 28th of March following, and executed April 15. He had behaved biavely in his profession on several occasions, been at the taking of St. Sebastian, Ferrol, and St. Antonio. His eldest son, Edward, succeeded to the title, and dying 1761, single, was succeeded by his brother John, who died at Dublin, 1785. John Foot, nephew to Sir John, and elder brother to the celebrated comedian, became possessed of the Charlton estate, and sold it to Sir John's widow's second husband, Mr. Rayner, printer, in Whitefriars, who sold it again.*

Soon after the fatal catastrophe happened to the brothers, Burg- hope, with other estates, to the amount of ^1,000 a year, were purchased by Governor Peachy, now Sir James Peachy, Bart. The house and gardens have been so much neglected that the former serves only as a warehouse or granary to the farmer, and the gardens are chiefly planted with hops. This house must have been a most desirable residence, having spacious woods, whence the views were extensive and picturesque. It had a very desirable neighbourhood, having Hampton Court, Dinmore, and Winsty near it.

J. WATHEN. Dore.

[1792, Part I.,pp. 395, 396.]

Among a variety of old churches in the county of Hereford that I last year visited, I found few so deserving the notice of your anti- * Nash's "Worcestershire," i., 272, 273.

Dore. 1 69

quarian readers as the venerable old abbey church of Dore, eleven miles south-west of Hereford. Its situation at the head of the Golden Vale is so exactly described by Camden that I will add his account of it : " The Dore river cuts its way through the middle of the valley, which the Britons from the river call the Diffrin Dore, but the English the Golden Vale, which name it may well be thought to deserve, for its golden, rich, and pleasant fertility, as the hills •which encompass it on both sides are clothed with woods, under the woods cornfields on each hand, and under these fields lovely and fruitful meadows; in the middle between them glides a clear and crystal river, upon which Robert, Earl of Ewias, erected a beautiful monastery, wherein very many of the nobility and gentry of these parts were buried." The founder of this abbey (which was of the Cistercian Order) resided at the castle built by his father Harold soon after the Conquest ; it was situated one mile south-east of Dore at the village of Ewias Harold ; the site only is now to be seen. Among many of the principal and early benefactors to this abbey that were here interred, Leland says,* " were the Alanes, lords of Alanes more and Kilpek, and Sir Alane Plokenet, lord of Kilpek Castle (situated five miles south-east of Dore), John de Warre, a lord of Ewias, and Walter de Clifford," whose castle (of which a small part remains) is situated nine miles north-west of Dore, on the banks of the river Wye. It also appears that " Caducanus, some- time Bishop of Bangor, who afterwards became a monk of Dore, was buried in the fourth aile of this church ;" his effigy in oak, almost entire, was to be seen here, but has been removed. John Bruton, Knight, and his wife (father to John Bruton (or Betane) Bishop of Hereford in 1148) were also here buried. This abbey and church suffered so much after its dissolution, and during the protectorship of Cromwell, that very few of the old tombs and monuments remained at the time it was rtstored by Lord Scudamore. From the annexed view of it your readers will see that more than half the church was buried in ruins ; its situation may also be exactly ascertained from the account given of it by a person who well remembered the restoring of the church of Dore:f "Mr. John Gyles, then called Sir G)les, curate here before the church was repaired, who read prayers under an arch of the old demolished church to preserve his book from wet in the rainy weather." This church when entire must have been very magnificent and spacious, to correspond with the parts that remain, which are the transept, choir, and cloisters, only the nave being entirely gone ; it was built after the cathedral form, has a single cloister on each side, and a double cloister at the end of the choir ; the beautiful architecture of the window in this part of the church has been admired by all persons that see it, and particularly by a late

* Itin. VIII., p. 84.

t See the deposition of Hugh Poull, in the case of Tythes.

1 70 Herefordshire.

distinguished Eastern traveller (Dr. Pocock), who, near thirty years since, spent several days in examining this church, and othtr remains of antiquity in this neighbourhood at Oldcastle, Longtown, Lanthony, and Alterrennis. At the time Dore church was restored, in 1634, a part of the dissolved monastery called Lancashire Hall (from Thomas, Karl of Lancaster, a saint held in great veneration here) was appointed by Lord Scudamore for a rectory ; but the situation proving damp and unhealthy (the river Doire running near it), a new licence was obtained, and the present rectory-house built in 1665. A late worthy rector, Mr. Gibson (to whom I am indebted for many particulars), remarks of this house, "that though the structure be not so sumptuous as either of the others his lordship built (at Homme Lacy, near Hereford, and Hempsted, near Gloster), yet, with gratitude to the founder, and hearty thanks to God for it, it is a good, decent house, and what it wants in grandeur is sufficiently made out in the singular conveniences belonging to it ;"* the out-buildings are good, and the adjoining gardens and orchard contain five or six acres. The Lord Scudamore, who was so gratefully remembered by the above Rector of Dore, was a character as distinguished for his loyalty as his universal benevolence and charity ; he not only repaired and restored this and the above-mentioned church, and handsomely endowed them, but liberally relieved the suffering clergy, who adhered to the interest of their deposed master. The citizens of Hereford have also reason to respect the memory of this nobleman for a charity that has the laudable tendency of encouraging the young and industrious, and relieving the aged and infirm, having by his will bequeathed a sum of ^400 in trust to the corporation of Hereford, the interest of which is lent to young tradesmen (for a certain number of years) to enable them to begin business ; and to ten decayed tradesmen ,&io per annum each for their lives. Besides other considerable repairs, the whole of Dore Church was new roofed, and the present tower raised ; he also carefully preserved several mutilated monuments and stone coffins, and the communion-table (one entire stone 12 leet long, 4 broad, 3 inches thick), that lay buried in the ruins of the church ; the communion-table was restored to its place, and stands upon three pilasters of stone, with several monuments (of a late date), in the choir part of Dore; and near the altar is a hand- some raised tomb and inscription to the memory of Sir John Hoskins, Knight, whose seat was at Morehatnpton, one mile north of Dore ; near the house (that is now reduced to a handsome farmhouse) were a park and some fine estates that are now possessed by Sir Hunger- ford Hoskins, Bart., of Harewood, in this county. From the peculiar fertility of the soil, and beauty of the country round Morehampton,

* See Gibson's " Account of the Endowments of Homme Lacy and Dore Church, in Herefordshire, and Hempsted, near Gloucester," a book now scarce, published 1727-

Dore. 171

I conclude Sir John Hoskins had no occasion to search further than his own neighbourhood to find the ten old persons (of 100 years each) to entertain King James when he made his excursion in this part of England ; many persons of the same age, I believe, are still to be found in this and the adjoining parishes. Of Sir John Hoskins I hope to communicate some other particulars in a future article.

J. WATHEN.

[1829, Part II., pp. 497, 498.]

I request your insertion of another view of Dore Abbey, from a different point of sight, drawn and engraved by Mr. Malcolm (see Plate II.).

Dore Abbey was of the Cistercian order, and was founded by Robert de Ewyas, the youngest son of Harold, Lord of Ewyas, in the time of King Stephen, to the honour of the Virgin Mary. Amongst its benefactors may be enumerated King John, Robert, Earl of Ferrers, Alan de Plokenet, John la Warre, Walter de Clifford, and numerous others.

In Pope Nicholas's taxation, the spiritualities of the monastery amount to £9 133. 4d. ; the annual amount of the temporal pos- sessions to ^120 i6s. i id.

In the 26th Henry VIII. the gross revenues of this house amounted to .£118 os. ad. The clear income to j£ioi 55. 2d. per annum. The site was granted, 31 Henry VIII., to John Scudamore.

A very impeded impression of the seal of this abbey is in the collection of John Caley, Esq. Its subject is an abbot at lull length, in one hand a crucifix, in the other a book ; and having on his dexter side a shield, with the arms of the abbey, being those of the family of Tregoz, who married the heiress of the founder, Ewyas, viz., Gules, two bars geniels, and in chief a lion passant, guardant or. The arms in the shield of the sinister side are, in this impression, wholly obliterated, nor can more of the legend be made out than s. c DE DORA.*

The remains of the abbey, now the parish church, are at the east end of the village. They show the effects of violence rather than of age, though the walls bear the marks peculiar to the earliest style of church aichitecture. They are variegated with the tints of the saffron, green and lead-coloured mosses ; and covered by ivy on the north side, which clings to the interstices, and winding over the arches, assumes their form, permitting but partial glances of the stone that composes them. N. R. S.

* Dugclale's "Monasticon," new edition, vol. v., p. 553. A seal of the Abbot Jordan, of Dore, is engraved in our vol. Ixxvi., p. 793.

1 72 Herefordshire.

Eccleswall Castle.

[1749,/- 536.]

The arms on an old seal which was found about ten years ago in an ancient wall at Eccleswall Castle, in the parish of Linton, in Here- fordshire. It is of silver, but this arms is only the middle part, there being a circular border of silver also, with this inscription or legend :

"Sigillutn Fhilippi de Henbury."

But no family of that name, or like it, now extant, is known to bear that coat. The arms screw in or out of the border so as to seal with or without the legend. The work is well performed, and sunk in the silver so as to show an impression raised up. Eccleswall Castle formerly belonged to the Talbots, since Earls of Shrewsbury, and by an heiress came to the Greys, and was sold by the late Duke of Kent to Mr. Bonner, present possessor of it and of the seal. R. W.

Goodrich.

[1831, Part II., p. 584.]

Nobody knows who was the founder that gave name to the fortress and village of Goodrich. In the " Liber Niger Scaccar." (by Hearne), i. 1 60, is a charter of the Abbot of Winchcombe, saying that William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, owed two knights' fees to the abbot for Castle Godric. I treated it as a return wrongly entered, until I found in the "Rot Marescall,"* 13 Edward II., m. 4, that the Abbot of Winchcombe is certified as having two knights' fees, which I pre- sumed to be those of Godrich, as above. I have abstracts made by myself of the two registers of Winchcombe Abbey (now or lately in the possession of Lord Sherbornej, but neither in the extracts nor in the "Monasticon" (the old edition, i. 187), could I find any elucida- tion, because all their "antiqua testimonia" of the endowment of the abbey were destroyed by fire in the reign of Stephen. I then gave up the inquiry as being much like that of the lost course of Offa's Dyke. But I was again revived by finding that the same OFFA who expelled the Britons from the track between the Severn and the Wye, of which Godrich was part, was founder of the nunnery at Winch- combe, which preceded the famous mitred abbey, and, of course, might have endowed that nunnery with part of the acquired British property. Now, the Conqueror ejected a Godric, Abbot of Winch- combe, from his monastery, and imprisoned him in Gloucester Castle. Whether this Godric founded the castle or not, let others decide, but it is certain that the Earls Marshall did succeed in the estate, and that the Abbot of Winchcombe in the reign of Henry II. certifies that William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, did not only hold of him the two fees of Godrich, but also LXV. fees and a half of the honour of Striguil. If so, Offa might have given that immense estate • Palgrave's " Parl. Writs," vol. ii., Div. ii., p. 529.

Goodrich. 173

to the monks, out of which the Conqueror might have ousted them, and transferred it to the Earls Marshall. It may be further observed that Godrich Castle had in more recent times a large extent of juris- diction. Yours, etc., T. D. FOSBROKE.

Hampton Bishop. [1791, Part I., p. 31.]

In Beckwith's edition of Blount's "Fragmenta Antiquitatis," p. 271, the following tenure is inserted from the "Black Book of Hereford " :

" Tenentes de Hampton Episcopi in com. Hereford debent quaerere annuatim sex summas virgarum, apud Boscum de Haya juxta Hereford, et apportare ad Hereford ad cletas nundinarum faciendas, quando suerint requisiti, et pro qualibet summa dictarum virgarum allocabitur eis obolum de nundinis." Which tenure is thus translated : " The tenants at Hampton Bishop, in the county of Here- ford, were to get yearly six horse loads of rods or wattels, in the Hay Wood, near Hereford, and bring them to Hereford to make booths (or hurdles to pen sheep in) at the fair when they should be re- quired ; and for every load ot the said rods they were to be allowed a halfpenny at the fairs."

This tenure, I conjecture, relates to one particular fair only, and not to all the fairs held at Hereford. The word nundinje is indeed in the plural number ; but, as it has no singular number, it is from thence that the uncertainty arises. The fair which I suppose the tenure concerns begins on May 19, and from its continuing nine days, is called the nine-day fair. From time immemorial this fair is proclaimed, with certain formalities, by the Bishop of Hereford's bailiff, or his deputy, and the tolls of the fair belong to one or both of these officers. During the continuance of the fair, the Bishop's bailiff supersedes the Mayor of Hereford, and is the acting magistrate. The fair also is not held in the usual place, but in a street before the bishop's palace. The Bishop of Hereford has likewise had, at all times, an intimate connection with the parish of Hampton Bishop (as may be insinuated from its name), being the patron of the rectory, and keeping in repair a large enbankment of the river Wye. He is, I believe, paramount lord over the greatebt part, if not the whole, of the parish.

These are my grounds for supposing the nine-days' fair or.ly to be alluded to in the foregoing tenure ; and could it be made appear that the Hay Wood had ever any dependance on the Bishop of Here- ford, my conjecture would be more strongly supported. M. C.

[1825, Part 21., pp., 18-20.]

Allow me to offer the following description of the paintings, por- traits, etc., at Hampton Court in Herefordshire, the ancient seat of

1 74 Herefordshire.

the Coningsby family, being the result of a visit there a few years back.*

Henry, Baron Abergavenny, great-grandfather to Earl Coningsby (ob. 1642), in the attitude of rising from his seat.

Lady Mary Sackville, daughter of the Earl of Dorset (ob. 1608), wife to Henry, Lord Abergavenny. Three-quarters size.

The late Earl Coningsby, great-grandfather of the present Earl of Essex (ob. 1729), and his two daughters, Margaret (ob. . . .) and Frances (ob. 1781), whole lengths, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller in the year 1722. The earl is depicted in a sitting posture, resting his right arm on the holy Bible, grasping in his hand a roll, on which is inscribed : " Magna Charta . . . Qth of Henry the Third. This is my birthright purchased with the blood of my ancestor," bearing a strong testimony to the violence of his opinions. On the tablet, against which the earl leans, is represented the arms, quarterly of twelve, with the supporters and motto, "Tacta Libertas." Under- neath is the following : " This first Coat was in this manner borne by John Lord Coningsby Baron of Coningsby, in Lincolnshire, who was slain in the Barons' Warrs in the Reign of King John,t the which Town and Castle of Coningsby being then confiscated, is now in the possession of the Lord Sheffield, and this is approved by the Heralds upon perusal of the evidence of Humphrey Coningsby of Nend-Sollers, who is lineally descended from the said John." The Tower of London is in the distance, to which the earl was committed for some offence he gave in Parliament. Vertue's large engraving is from this painting.

Sir Thomas Coningsby, founder of the Red Coat Hospital in the city of Hereford (ob. 1625), great-grandfather to Earl Coningsby; with his favourite dwarf crickett and dog ; whole length.

The same Sir Thomas, at the age of twenty-one, in 1572.

Phillipa, wife of Sir Thomas, a Fitzwilliam by her father, and a Sidney by her mother's side, 1578.

Another portrait of Sir Thomas, and an excellent piece of moral and religious advice addressed to his son, Fitzwilliam Coningsby, when the latter was chosen a member of the House of Commons (lately written fair, framed and glazed). Dated, " 2oth Dec. 1620."

An undoubted original on wood, of Henry IV., who built Hampton Court, which is said to have been completed with the spoils from Agincourt This portrait has been often described and engraved. A very accurate copy of it on panel was made some years ago by Mr. Harris, printer, Leominster.

* The dates are, for the most part, supplied from a pedigree of the family, com- piled from the records in the College of Arms, bearing date April 12, 1823.

t There is cerlainly an error in this statement, for John Baron Coningsby (superst. an. 1200) was slain at the battle of Chesterfield, in Derbyshire, in 1266 (50 Henry III.).

Hampton Bishop. 175

The Duchess of Cleveland (ob. 709), by Sir Peter Lely.

A view of Coaingsby Castle in Lincolnshire, forfeited to the crown in King John's reign, having been in the family 300 years, which castle and barony had descended to them from the Saxons, " as by auncient recorde dothe appeare."

Five large old paintings of Hampton Court.

The Battle of Aghrim in Ireland, fought when Earl Coningsby was Lord Justice of Ireland.

An original portrait of Henry VII.

Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV. and wife of Henry VII.

Henry IV. of France.

Queen Elizabeth.

Lady lane Grey.

Sir William Fitzwilliam, Lord Deputy of Ireland, Preceptor to Mary Queen of Scots, and father to Phillipa, wife of Sir Thos. Coningsby (ob. 1599).

Anne (daughter of Sir VVillia-n, and sister to Sir Henry Sidney, Knight), wife to Sir William Fitzwilliam, represented with her right hand on a skull, covered with an inscription in very small characters, probably some moral reflections ; her left caressing a favourite cat. A skull, said to be the original of the painted one, is preserved and exhibited, and also what is called the helmet of Henry IV., founder of the seat, but from the style of its ornaments, evidently of the later period of James I. The helmet is of polished steel, inlaid with gold ornaments.

Barbara, daughter of Ferdinando Gorges, of Eye, county Hereford, Esq., first wife of Lord Coningsby, from whom he was divorced. (Of the Gorges there are some very curious particulars in Lord Coningsby's Case of the Five Hundreds, etc. ; folio.)

Sir Thomas Southwell, Bart. (ob. 1720), who married Meliora, eldest daughter of Earl Coningsby, by his first wife ; half length.

Meliora, Lady Southwell (ob. 1735-36); half length.

A small coloured figure of Thomas Coningsby, Esq., son of Earl Coningsby, by his first wife, modelled in his lifetime by his own order, and preserved in a case. This Thomas is reported to have been de- ficient in his intellect. His lordship had six children by his first lady.

Lady Frances Jones, daughter and co-heiress of Richard, Earl of Ranelagh, and second wife to Earl Coningsby (ob. 1714-15); whole length.

The same lady, by Kneller, at the age of twenty-one.

Richard, Earl of Cork, great-grandfather to both Lord and Lady Coningsby (ob. 1643).

The Viscountess Ranelagh, daughter of Richard, Earl of Cork, and grandmother to Lady Coningsby (ob. 1691).

Earl Coningsby in his park with greyhounds, and view of his mansion in the distance. Kneller.

1 76 Herefordshire.

Sir Charles Porter, joint commissioner with Earl Coningsby in Ireland during 1690 and the two following years. Copy from Kneller.

Sir William Robinson, Knight, deputy to Earl Coningsby when Vice-Treasurer of Ireland. By Kneller.

Mr. Lowndes, Secretary of the Treasury.

Thomas Williams, a pleasant fool belonging to his lordship, who died an. 1687.

Elizabeth Norbury, cousin-german to Earl Coningsby.

Mrs. Harford, cousin ; by her father.

Sir Charles Hanbury Williams, K.B. (ob. 1759); half length.

Frances. Countess of Essex, mother to the present earl, daughter of Sir Charles H. Williams and Lady Frances Coningsby (ob. 1759) ; half length.

In a passage window are three coats-of-arms of the Coningsbys in stained glass, dated 1614, 1613, 1614, marked T. R.

In the library is shown a bloody handkerchief, which Collins in his " Peerage " thus notices :

" Thomas Coningsby, Esq. (afterwards created Earl) being at the battle of the Boyne in Ireland, was so near his Majesty King William the Third, that when the bullet rising aslant on the King's right shoulder took out a piece of his coat, and tore the skin and flesh, Mr. Coningsby immediately had the presence of mind to clap his hand- kerchief on the place."

Visitors are likewise shown a handsome fowling-piece which Earl Coningsby caused to be made from the blades of swords taken from the rebels at the same time. [Inscription on barrel omitted. ]

A CONSTANT SUBSCRIBER.

In addition to the list here concluded, we annex an account of some paintings which may have escaped our " Constant Reader's " observations, but were preserved in the curious mansion of Hampton Court, as appears from a list taken by Mr. F. Harris, of Leominster, about twenty -five years ago, with which we have been favoured by our correspondent J. A. As the Hampton Court estate in Herefordshire has passed by purchase from the present Earl of Essex (George Capel Coningsby) to Richard Arkwright, Esq., great changes may have taken place in the disposal of the pictures, and the notice of the following paintings is therefore given, as they were originally placed there, not as they may be now.

Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I. Vandyke.

The Earl of Essex. Lawrence.

The Countess of Essex. Lawrence.

Major Basset, father of the present Countess of Essex.

The Countess of Kildare, eldest daughter of the Earl of Ranelagh, and sister to the Lady Coningsby.

Hampton Bishop. 177

Edward IV.

William III., 1700; threequarter length. Kneller.

William III. ; whole length. Kneller.

Queen Mary, wife of William III. Kneller.

Fitzwilliam Coningsny, grandfather to Earl Coningsby.

Cecilia Neville, daughter to Henry, Lord Abergavenny, by Lady Mary Sackville, wife to Fitzwilliam Coningsby ; whole length.

Lady Lisburne, second wife of Lord Lisburne, brother to Earl Coningsby's mother ; threequarter length. Kneller.

Sir Arthur Loftus, grandfather to Earl Coningsby, by his mother's side ; threequarter length.

Earl Coningsby, 1709; whole length. Kneller.

Laurence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, cousin-german to Earl Coningsbv, by his mother ; threequarter length.

Anne Sidney, Lady Fitzwilliam.

Lady Margaret Cecil, daughter to the E-irl of Salisbury, second wife to Earl Ranelagh (said to have been the handsomest woman in England of her time) ; whoL- length.

Elizabeth, Countess of Ranetagh, daughter to Lord Willoughby, and mother to Lady Coningsby.

Richard, Earl of Ranelagh, father to the second wife of Earl Coningsby.

Lady Margaret Cecil ; half length.

Lady Coningsby and Lady Catherine Jones, twin daughters of Richard, Earl of Ranelagh, by his first wife ; whole length ; with a black boy kneeling and presenting a basket of flowers.

Lady Margaret Coningsby, eldest daughter of Earl Coningsby, 1750; half length. Ramsay.

Lady Frances Coningsby, youngest daughter of Earl Coningsby.

Lady Coningsby, first wife of Earl Coningsby.

Duke of Marlborough, astat. 60 ; threequarter length. Kneller.

General Gwinkle, Earl of Athlone, commanding in Ireland when Earl Coningsby was there ; threequarter length.

Two daughters of Earl Coningsby, by his first wife.

Lady Elizabeth Felton, wife of Sir Thomas Felton, daughter to the Earl of Suffolk. Kneller.

James II.

Richard Talbot, Lord Tyrconnel.

An Old Man, aet. 87, 1704.

Henry IV. on horseback ; a very large picture.

Old paintings of Wolf and Poultry ; Peacock and Fowls; Fruit and Flowers ; Bear-hunting, Wolf-hunting : old unknown family portraits (originals) ; and several copies in crayons, etc.

VOL. XVII. 12

178 Herefordshire.

Hereford.

[1764, pp. II, 12.]

The city of Hereford is seated on the north bank of the river Wye, very near the centre of the county of Hereford, in a fruitful and pleasant country, but lying low and in a deep clay, is very dirty in the winter season. The city is thought to have arisen out of the ruins of Ariconium, an old Roman station, distant about three miles, now called Kerchester. It is supposed to have been built, or rather enlarged, by King Edward the elder, and Camden tells us that he could find no account of it prior to that time. The Welsh formerly called it Tresawith, from beech-trees, and the Saxons, Fern-leg, from fern.

The chief increase of the city is due to Milfrid, a petty king of the country, who, in the year 680, built a church, and founded a bishopric here, in honour of Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, who was murderer! at Sutton, the palace of Offa, King of the Mercians, by the treachery of Quendied, wife of that monarch.

The kings of the Mercians and the West Saxons were very liberal to this city, and William of Malmsbury tells us that Athelstan the West Saxon brought the Lords of Wales to such straits in tliis city, that they agreed to pay, besides hounils and hawks, 20 pounds of i;old, and 300 pounds of silver by weight, as a yearly tribute.

In the year 1055, Griffith, Prince of South Wales, and Algar, an Englishman, rebelling against Edward the Confessor, after they had put to flight Earl Ralph, sacked the city, destroyed the cathedral, and carried Leofgar, the bishop, into captivity.

Florentius, the monk of Worcester, says, that Harold fenced the city with a large and high rampier.

In the book of I )ome.sday we read that there were but 103 men within the walls and without.

The Normans built a large and strong castle on the south-east of the city, which is now entirely demolished, and enclosed the city with walls.

Hereford espoused the cause of Charles I., and was besieged by the Sects, who were afterwards forced to raise the siege, but the city was taken at lenytli by surprise.

In the decline ot the West Saxon government, Ralph, the son of Walter Medanlinus, by Goda, sister to King Edward the Confessor, governed this city as an official eail, but he being infamous for his cowardice, William the Conqueror gave the earldom to William Fitz- Oshorn, a warlike Norman. He being slain in battle, his son, Roger, surnamed De Breteville, succeeded him, and having conspired against the Conqueror, died in prison without lawful issue. King Stephen granted the earldom to Robert Bossu, Earl of- Leicester. Maud, the Empress, gave it to Milo, the son of Walter, constable of

Hereford. 179

Gloucester. He had live sons, Roger, Walter, Henry, Wiliiarn, and Mabell. all which possessed their father's inheritance (except William), and all five died violent deaths, and without issue. Their sister Margaret married Humphry Bohun, by whom she had another Humphry, whose son, Henry, was created Earl of Hereford by King John. He married the sister and heir of William Mandeville, Earl of Essex. The succeeding earls were Humphry, his son, Earl of Essex also, whose son, Humphry, dying before him, Humphry his grandson succeeded, and his son, Humphrey, being slain at Borough- bridge, his sons John and Humphry were earls successively, and dying without issue, his other son William, Earl of Northampton, succeeded, whose son, Humphry, was the last earl of the name. He left two daughters, Eleanor married to Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester; and Mary married to Henry Plantagenet, who was created Duke of Hereford, and afterwards was King of England by the name of Henry IV. Edwird Stafford, last D'ike of Buckingham, was styled Earl ot' Herefor.l, being descended from a daughter of Thomas of Woodstock.

King Edward VI., in 1549, granted the title of Viscount Hereford to Walter Devereux, descended from the Bohuns, whose posterity still enjoy it. Bishop Athelstan built a cathedral here in 1055. Robert Loring, another bishop, began it anew, after the form of Aix in Germany, in 1075. Bishop Reinelm, to whom Camden attributes the foundation, was a great benefactor to it, and founded the college of Priest Vicars. Giles Brinse, another bishop, built one of the steeples in the reign of King John.

The cathedral consists of a nave, which is now used as a parish church by the inhabitants of St. John B iptist's parish, two siile aisles, the choir two side aisles, four cross aisles, the library, and St. Mary's chapel. The choir is small, but very neat, and the carving of the throne and stalls very elegant. The chance! is paved with marble, and the altar- piece is very handsome. There are many monuments in the church, but chiefly of the bis'iops. amongst which the best are those of Bishop Bisse and his lady, the Countess of Plymouth, in the choir, and of Dr. Tyler, Bishop of Landaff, and Dean of Hereford in the south cross. The west front of the church and the tower steeple are much admired. Tne steeple in the middle of the church consists of a tower and a leaden spire, and has a ring of ten bells in it. The college is joined to the church by a cloister, and is built round a court. The hall where the clergy dine is handsome, and has a small organ. The free school is at (he west end of the church, and the palace stands on the south side, which is a very handsome building, being most of it rebuilt by Bishop Bisse, and hath a very elegant hall, and many good rooms in it ; Bishop Egerton built the stables, and the present bishop repaired and ornamented the palace. There is a very grand room lately built near the church for the meeting of the sons of the clergy. The

i So Herefordshire.

deanery stands on the east side of the church, and is a good build- ing. The churchyard is large and handsome, being the only one in the city. The chancellor's house, and one or two more belonging to the dignitaries, are neat, modern buildings. The castle green is now converted into a good walk, and is very pleasant. The other churches in the city are All Saints, St. Peter's, and St. Nicholas's. There were formerly these religious houses in Hereford : A house of Secular Canons, dedicated to St. Guthlake ; a house of Franciscan Friars, founded by Henry de Pembridge, and valued at ^121 35. 3d; an house of Augustine Canons, by John de IVmbridge.

The two churches of St. Martin and St. Owen, which stood without the walls, were demolished by the Scot-;.

The city had five gates, namely, viz., St. Owen's, Bister's Gate, Wigmersh, Eign and Fryn Gates. The chief streets are High Street, Broad Street, Wye-bridge Street, Eign Street, Wigmersh Street, Bister's Street, St. Owen's Street, and Castle Street. The city is very thinly inhabited, and the buildings in general old and mean, the chief trade being only for gloves, and sending corn and cider to Bristol by water. The market-days ar^ We-lnesday, Friday, and Saturday. The fairs are held on May 19, July i, and October 20. The movrable fairs were kept this year on February 8, and April 6. The chief seats near the city are Hampton Court, the house of the late Eirl Coning-by ; Holm Lacey, of the late Lord Scudamore; Mockas Court, of V. Cornwall, Esq. ; Roiheras, of - — Boden, Esq. ; Clayhonger, of - - Aubrey, Esq. ; Stoke Edith of Thomas Foley, Esq ; and the Meend, of John Symmons, Esq ; member for the city. Yours, etc., INGENNUUS.

[1772, />. 462.]

Against the east wall of the south transept of Hereford Cathedral is an elegant white marble urn, against a yellow marble pyramid, and two palm-branches crossed below, and this inscription :

" To the memory of VKLTKRS CORNWALL, of Moccas, Esq. ; who represented this bounty ouring 46 years in seven successive parliaments. Encomiums upon the dead .ire often the dictates of flatlery to the living : but the faithlul friend, who inscribes this marble (tho' he cannot but blame the excess of patriot jealousy, which loo cautiously wi hhelil the deceased from engaging in employments in state), yet clues jusiice to those generous and un^kaken principles, which alone directed his conduct in opposing whatever seemed to interfere with the true interest of his country. By his last wife Catherine, youngest daughter of William Hanbury, Esq., of Little Marcle ; he had two children, Frederic Henry, who died an infant, and Catherine, who, with her surviving mother, has caused this monument to be erected. He died at Moccas, upon the 3d of April, 1768, in the 73d year of his nge, just when his constituents were preparing to elect him to an eigiith parliament."

Arms : Arg. in a bordure engrailed, s. bezante, a lion rampant, g. crowned o., with a crescent of difference, g.

Hereford. \ 8 1

, Part 1 1., pp. 578,579-] The sketches of the ruins of Hereford Cathedral, slight as they are, proclaim the more than barbarous indolence of the chapter, who have left that fine ancient building in such a state, and threatening more ruin to follow, not only since November 29 last, the date of your correspondent's letter, but to the present moment. The expense of rebuilding what is already fallen, or must be taken down to prevent its falling, is estimated at ,£15,200. The monument, whose pedi- ment is seen in the second sketch, is that of Bishop Booth, who die'l 1535. There are few in the nave except some brasses (by this time probably stolen), and that of Sir Rich. Pembridge, engraved in the "Sepulchral Monuments of Great Britain," Plate LIV. The only representation of these ruins besides Mr. \V.'s was a painting which a painter of the city carried about the country, and showed for six- pence apiece, a month or two after the accident.

Yours, etc., K. D.

[1795, P^t II., p. 785.]

Our Herefordshire correspondent informs us that " Mr. Wyat endeavoured very much to lengthen the choir at Hereford Cathedral, as he has done at Lichfield." Had he succeeded, it would have been all seeing and no hearing. The scaffolding at the fcrmer church is taken down from the tower, which looks rather handsomer. At each corner are two small pinnacles, and some time or other it will have one lofty one. When this is added it will have a much better effect; as it is, the present oners are quite insignificant. The lowering the roof gives an elevation to the great tower proportionate to its bulk. It is altogether a rich building. The north transept roof has been lowered within this month, and the new covering of lead is now laying on; and when this is done the present chapter will do no more to the outside for some time. But what is going to be done very shortly within must violate every rule of proprietv , and ol respect for the skill and taste of our forefathers. There is a parish church of St. John Baptist annexed to the cathedral. When the tower fell, the parochial service was removed into the choir, where it has been performed ever since. Some of the chapter oliject to this, and the parishiont-rs in reply say that, "as they ruve used the materials of the late church, they must provide them another." At last, att<r a ridiculous squabble, instead of making some neat seats in the ne>v nave where it was before, it is now concluded that the fine north transept, which has more curious and valuable monuments than any other, is to be all taken up with the new church, so that it is to be feared they will be all lost to the sight of the curious — among many others, those of Bishop Westpruling, Dean Aquai.lanc, John Philips, the poet, and shrine of St. Thomas, Cantalupe; and this last act i.f folly and want of taste in the cuapter deserves to be recorded.

1 82 Herefordshire.

[1824, FartII.,p.<).-\

1 send you a representation of the magnificent porch on the north side of Hereford Cathedral (see the frontispiece to the present volume). It was built by Bishop Booth early in the sixteenth century. It rises above the aisle, and has the front and side arches open for admission into the cathedral. Each outer angle has an hexagonal turret, in which are staircases to the room over the porch. The window and spandrils formed by the pediment are highly deco- rated, as also of the door beneath ; those at the sides are less enriched. M.

[l%2t,,rartn.,pp, 26, 27.]

As I passed through the city of Hereford, after a long absence from it, I was much pleased with the great improvements made there within these few jears, particularly the new courts of justice, with their chaste Doric portico, designed by Smirke ; the handsome ami commodious covered market-place (the market having been formerly held in the open streets) ; the removal of a row of old shops in the centre of the city occupied by butchers (not quite completed) ; and the general improved appearance of the streets and houses ; the county gaol, its management, classification of prisoners, and working system, revived with effect after some years of discontinuance — speak forcibly of the excellent arrangements of the magistracy, and are very creditable to their superintendence. The great alterations in the cathedral, the removal of the unsightly dingy coat of paint from the stalls in the choir, and restoring the fine old oak to its natural colour by cleaning and varnishing, with the beautifully painted glass-window (by Backler) over the communion-table (recently put up), equally delighted me. Mr. Britton, I can venture to predict, will find this not the least interesting portion of his useful labours on our cathedral antiquities. Several new monuments have been erected, one to the memory of an old friend well known to many of your Oxford readers :

" M. S. HENRICI FORD, LCD. Aula; S. Mariaa Magdalense Principalis, necnon linguos Arabicse apud Oxonienses Pradectoris ; et hujus Ecclesise Cathedralis Canonic! Residentiarii : cui literis baud mediocriter imbuto praecipuse laudi con- tigit, quo Eoas linguas feliciter excoluerit. Vir moril.us simplex prajstans ingenii ; multis ille quidem flebilis ; nulli quam conjugi et natis flebilior. Occidit Oxoniae Julii xxvi. anno Domini MDCCCXIH. setatis LXI."

S. X.

[1836, Part 1 1., p. 532.]

In digging a grave in Hereford Cathedral lately, the workmen came to a place of sepulture formed in the earth, in which was a skeleton clothed in a vestment of brown stuff, handsomely em- broidered with gold, and shoes on the feet. On the right side was placed a small chalice of white metal, with a paten on it, and upon

Hereford. 183

the paten two pieces of waxed taper crossed ; in the chalice there had evidently been a liquid. The grave was immediately closed and another made near it.

[1846, Pa>tl.,p. 523.]

In taking down an old monastic building at Hereford, a discovery has been recently made which is supposed to be the ghastly record of some dreadful punishment, such as that described by Sir Walter Scott in the notes to his " Marmion " (where he mentions a similar discovery in the ruins of the nunnery of Coldingham), and in Headley's " Letters from Italy," with reference to the church of San Lorenzo, in the town of San Giovanni. A correspondent of the Hereford Times gives the following interesting account of the dis- covery : "In taking down the south-east corner the workmen came to a paving-stone, which, on being removed, disclosed to view an aperture about 18 by 12 inches in dimensions; on further examina- tion, by removing the walls, it appeared that it was a sort of niche, 5 feet 6 inches high, capable of containing a humar form, broad at the head and tapering down to the feet, where it was 10 inches broad. It had been plastered in the interior on the front, back, and east side ; on the opposite it was closed up with rough wall stone ; at the bottom was another paving-stone, and upon it a heap of collapsed bones, a glass bottle, and an earthen pan, portions of the leather and high heel of shoes, and a piece of wood, which, it has been asserted, bears the marks of having been gnawed, as if in the last frenzied effort to sustain a famishing and desperate nature. Was it in refinement of cruelty that these vessels were deposited at the feet, where the wretched sufferer, from the straitness of the narrow cell, could not reach the viands they contained ? What crime could deserve such awful retribution ? or, rather, what human being might dare to visit on his fellow-sinner such agonizing torment, such accumulation of the pangs of many deaths ? What else could have been the tragedy which these walls have witnessed ? what other the agonies which they assisted in administering ? The very heart sickens at the contemplation ; and the religion of peace and mercy repudiates the deed as that of demons, rather than the ministers of reconciliation, or of salvation to the sinner's soul ! But to proceed. The poor wretch does not seem to have been alone in this app tiling exigency : another similar niche at the south-\vest corner of the wall was subsequently revealed, built up in the same manner, but standing sideways to the other. At the bottom of this, too, were the mournful indications of the purpose to which it had been applied — a heap of bones. If a mystery hangs over the history of this spot as to its material fabric, much more must this dark deed elude the scrutiny of man. That such things have been, and under the most sa> red pretext, is, alas ! incontrovertible."

1 84 Herefordshire.

Kilpeck.

[1789, Fart II., p. 781.]

Kilpec Church, situated eight miles south-west of Hereford, near the post-road to Abergavenny, has so often proved an object of curiosity to me, from its situation and antiquity, that within these few days I have been induced to make different drawings of it, and I have now enclosed jou a general view. The churchyard, con- siderably lower than the site of the castle (which is very near it), has a good many trees near it, and is rather a " sequestered spot," where possibly " some mute inglorious Milton may rest."

In Dugdale's " Baronage," vol. i., p. 597, it is said of Kilpec : " The first of this family of whom I have found mention is Hugh the son of William, a Norman ; which Hugh in 1124 (25 Henry I.) gave to the monks of St. Peter at Gloucester the church of St.David, at Kilpec, co. Herefordshire, with the chapel of our lady within the castle, likewise all the churches and chapels of his patronage, wiih the glebe belonging to them, and all manner of tithes whatever. To this Hugh succeeded Henry, who assumed the surname of Kilpec, from that castle of Kilpec, his principal seat ; which Henry, in 22 Henry II., paid 100 marks for trespassing in the King's forest. To him succeeded John de Kilpec, who, 5 Richard I., gave ^100 as his relief for the barony of Purbeck,* and, upon collection of his scutage for the King's redemption, paid ^30 (viz., two marks per scutum). 2 John, he obtained a charter from that King, that neither himself nor any of his heirs should be abiidged of their bailiwick of the forest of Hereford ; but 6 John he died, whereon the custody of his lands and heir was committed to William de Cantilupe, Julian his wife then surviving, who, 7 John, gave to the King a fine of sixty marks and one palfrey, for an assignment of her dowry, out of her husband's lands at Rokesby and Feme, which he had in his life- time appointed. To this John succeeded another Hugh, who died 9 John, leaving Egidid his wife surviving, who married afterwards William Fitzwarane, as also two daughters and heirs, viz., Isabel, married to William Waterland, and Jane, to Philip Marmian."

From that time I can learn no other account till it came into the family of the Pyes of the Meend, where is a handsome mansion a few miles from it. Sir Richard Symonds, Bart., is the present pro- prietor of it, with considerable estates in this neighbourhood. From the small remains of the castle sufficient is left to show its former strength and grandeur.

Although the church contains no monuments, the building itself

has much to recommend it to the admirers of Saxon architecture.

The window seen at the west end (see Plate I.), and the arch of the

door seen through the porch, are very rich, the latter much orna-

* Query Kilpeck?

Kilpeck. 185

merited. The east end, or chancel, is circular, and has a beautiful effect, as seen from the inside, looking through a fine Saxon arch that divides it from the nave. On the pillars of the large arch are four curious figures : St. Peter, with the keys in his hand ; the others I could not make out, being partly concealed by the pews. From several tombstones it appears, that, for more than a century, several of the Gomonds lie buried here, who had an estate in this parish. I have the satisfaction to add that this church, and many others in this archdeaconry, have been visited by Dr. Jones, our archdeacon, and are in a state of reparation and improvement.

In the adjoining parishes of VVormbridge, Kenderchurch, and Kentchurch, are three old mansions, belonging to Lady Clive, Mr. Shiffner, and Mr. Scudamore, M.P. for Hereford ; the two former are situated near the road to Abergavenny ; the latter, two miles east of Kenderchurch, near the Mannaw, over which is a handsome old bridge, leading to the village of Grismond, of which you may expect to receive some further account, from J. WATHEN.

[1833, Part I., pp. 394, 395.]

Kilpeck Church consists of a nave and chancel.

The nave (A) is 31 feet 3 inches long by 20 feet 6 inches wide, and is lighted by five windows, all of them single lights. It com- municates with the chancel under a semicircular arch, having the zigzag and enriched lozenge mouldings ; the shafts (one on each side) from which the arch springs are faced with the effigies of six saints, with their appropriate emblems, in high relief; the capital of one of the shafts is plain, that of the other is foliated.

The chancel is divided into two portions : the first, or western (B), is a parallelogram of 17 feet by 14 feet 3 inches. It is lighted by two trefoil-headed single-light windows, and is entered from the out- side by a door having a poinied arch. A plain semicircular arch forms the medium of communication between the first and second portion (C), which is in the form of a half circle of 14 feet diameter. It obtains light by three loopholes. The ribs of the roof, springing from shafted mural piers, are cut into the chevron and lozenge orna- ments, and terminate in the centre above in four grim-looking heads. There is a large square recess, or locker (b b), lined with oak, in the western wall, on each side of the arch ; and in the north-west corner stands a "movable double-stone basin (a), formed like a dice-box or hour-glass,"* supposed to be the lavacrum.

The font (c), similar to those of Madeleyt and Bredwardine in the

* Fosbroke, " Ency. of Antiq.," p. 96.

t On referring to my notes of Madeley Church, I find the following : "On the summit of the chancel wall, which may be seen from the south aisle, is some square-set masonry, which tiadition describes as being the tomb of the founder. It is said to be of green marble — a fact not easily ascertained, inasmuch as the object in question is thukly overspread with whitewash, and its elevation render--

1 86 Herefordshire.

same county, is a huge circular basin of granite, 4 feet in diameter, set on a cylindrical column 10 feet in circumference ; the height of the whole is 3 feet. A small inner basin, serving as a plug to the drain of the larger basin, is sculptured 10 resemble basket-work.

The principal entrance to the church is on the s >uth side of the nave, through a wooden porch and a semicircular-headed doorway having coupled shafts at the sides, which, with their capitals, imposts, and transome-stone, are richly and elaborately sculptured into a variety of figures ; among these may be discerned through the white- wash a man bearing a sword, another with palm-leaves in his hand, serpents, heads, foliage, etc. ; the whole is farther adorned with the zigzag, starry, triple-indented head, and cable moul, lings.

The exterior of the building is surrounded with a block-cornice composed of the heads of men and animals of all shapes, the holy lamb, a man performing on a musical instrument like a violin, two persons saluting each other, etc. The buttresses, or pilasters, are cupped with dragons' heads. The western wall is surmounted by two arched apertures, or niches, which contain the bells.

Mr. King (" Mun. Antiq.," iv.) supposes Kilpeck Church to be a Saxon editace; Mr. Fosbroke f'Ency. of Antiq.," p. 96) is of the same opinion. Its form is that of the most ancient Christian temples; but it is remarkable principally for the profusion of sculp- ture with which its walls are adorned both within and without.

Westward of the church stand the remains of the Castle, which belonged to the Lords of Kilpec ; and about a quarter of a mile southward, in the vale, may be traced the site of the priory men- tioneJ by Leland (" Itin.," viii., 86).

WILLIAM SAWYER.

Kingsland.

[[826, Part II., pp. 393-397-]

The parish of Kingsland is situated about four miles west from Leominster, forming a large plain, richly cultivated, in a very fertile valley. It contains nearly 5,000 acres, and, according to the last census, about 1,008 inhabitants. Were it not so richly wooded, it would be admirably calculated for cavalry movements, and on that account its most open part, called Great V/est Field, was the site ot the famous battle of Mortimer's Cross.

The neighbouring gentry, anxious to perpetuate the fact, about seven-and-twenty years ago erected a square pedestal at the junction of two roads, on which is the following inscription :

it almost inaccessible. Viewed from the floor, it certainly has the appearance of an ordinary altar-tonih, covered with a lid, which is studied with the ball-flower ornament of precisely tlie same cliaracitM as that of the stone stall-, in the chancel."

Kings land. 187

" This Pedestal is erected to perpetuate the memory of an obstinate, bloody, and decisive battle fought near this spot in Jhe Civil Wars, between the ambitious houses of York and Lancaster, on the 2nd of February, 1460, between the forces of Edward Mortimer, Earl of March, afterwards Edward IV., on the side of York, and those of Henry VI., on the side of Lancaster. The King's forces were com- manded by Jasper, Earl of Pembroke. Edward commanded his own in person, and was victorious. The slaughter was great on both sides, 4,000 being left dead upon the field, and many Welsh persons of the first distinction were taken prisoners, among whom was Owen Tudor, great-grandfather to Henry VIII. and a descendant of the illustrious Cadwallader, who was afterwards beheaded at Here- ford. This was the decisive battle which fixed Edward IV. upon the throne of England. He was proclaimed King on the 5th of March following. Erected by subscription, 1799."

The manor of Kingsland anciently belonged to the Crown, whence, no doubt, it took its name. Leland says tli.-U when Merwald, King of Mercia, founded the famous monastery of nuns at Leofminstre, he endowed it with all the lands thereabouts, except Kingsland ; and when Henry I. established a priory at the same town, he still reserved this manor to himself. It afterwards came into the possession of the powerful family of Mortimer, and in the 34th of Edward I. Margaret, the widow of Lord Mortimer, obtained a charter for a weekly market on Saturday, long since disused ; and a fair upon the feast of St. Michael, to whom the church is dedicated. This fair, which still continues, is held in an open field on the east of the churchyard, and though not on quite so large a scale as formerly, is still respectable. It is known to the Welsh by the name of Fair Leoneu, which would seem to give it some connection with Leominstre, termed by them Llanllieneu. The three adjoining parishes, Monkland, Eardisland, and Kingsland, were in former times written Monkleene, Eardisleene, and Kingsleene, and in that next to Eardisland is a farm called Leene.

The elevation of Edward IV. to the throne occasioned the manor to revert to the Crown, and it formed part of the jointure of Catherine the Dowaser Queen of Charles II. At a subsequent period it was granted to the Coningsby family, from whom it passed to the Earl of Essex. The present nobleman, when Viscount Maiden, sold it in 1793 to the Rev. Richard Evans, together with a part of the demesne lands of the Crown.

Next to the manor, the principal estate in the parish is Street Court, so called from having the Roman road, which is again hinted at in Church Stretton, and which went from Magna (Kenchester) through Bravinium (Lentwardine) to Uriconium, passing through the grounds. It formerly belonged to the Cutler family, from whom it passed to a branch of the Crowthers of Knighton, who sold it to a Mr. Smith. From him it was purchased about twenty years ago by the late Lieutenant-Colonel Atherton, and since his death has been bought by my friend, Richard Price, Esq., M.P. for Radnor.

About 300 yards from the House of Street was formerly a chapel,

1 88 HerefordsJiire.

long since destroyed, but a brass plate with a black-letter inscription from one of the monuments there has been preserved, and is now in the possession of Edward Evans, Esq., of Eyton Hall, in the adjoin- ing parish. As it may be of importance to genealogists, con ve) ing the knowledge of three or four tacts, I send you the folh wing copy :

" Here lyeth Anne, the wyfe of Edward Hall, y° daughter of S'. Perrifal Harte, Knt. her mother, daughter and one of ihecoheiresol the Lorde Braye, whidi Anne decea^ed the 291(1 of September, Anno Dom. 1594."

There seems to have been in former times another chapel in this parish, for a cottage on part of Mr. Hanbury's property is still called St. Mary's House. This estate, belonging to William Hanbury, Esq., of Sholdon Court, was in the tim« of Charles II. granted by the Crown to the ancestor of the late Lord Vi=count Batenian, and is extensive and valuable.

Tradition says there was once a castle at Kingsland, and the remains of a large tumulus and earthworks in the parsonage garden give some countenance to the assertion, though it must have been on a very confined scale. The advowson, formerly in the Mortimer family and then in the Crown, was alienated by Qut.en Elizabeth. It ultimately became the property of the Rev. Richard Evans, Pre- bendary of Haverford and Bangor, father of the present rector, the Rev. William Evans, and of Major Evans, of Eyton Hall, having been devised to him by the Rev. Dr. Sneyd Davies, memoirs of whom, by the late Mr. Justice Harding, in Nichols's " Literary Illustrations," must be familiar to biographical readers. The par- sonage house, a respectable building in the old style, with extensive gardens, is situated in the centre of a large and productive glebe, and contains good portraits of Bishops Morgan and Humphreys.

Kingsland is valued in the King's Books at ^31 3$. 6J^d. . . .

The present church of Kingsland was built by Edward, Lord Mortimer, in the reign of Edward I., who made his younger son, Walter, rector thereof, giving him the full right to all the tithes, arid dedicating it to St. Michael the Archangel. It consists of a nave and side-aisles, separated by octagonal columns, . suppoi ting ten pointed arches, 79 feet by 44 feet 9 inches; a chancel, 38 feet by 19 feet; what is now used as a vestry, n feet by 14 feet; a porch, 8 feet 10 inches by 10 feet 2 inches; the chamber of the holy sepulchre, 9 feet 4 inches by 4 feet 9 inches, and a tower at the west end. The architecture is all of one period, the leading feature being a square inscribed in a quartrefoil, or a triangle in a trefoil.

The greatest curiosity in Kingsland Church is what is termed the Volkre's chamber, which, though I will not go so far as to say is a corruption of Sepulchre's chamber, was, I have no doubt, for that purpose. This is a small building by the side of the porch, from which is the entrance to it, and receives light from unglazed windows on its east and north sides. Within, out of the thickness of the

Kingsland. \ 89

church wall has been formed an arch, such as all monumental ones of the time, and within it a kind of altar ; at the back another open window, consisting of four lights tor the convenience of those within the church. The great arch is elegantly ornamented. . . .

The position of this chamber near the porch was for the more ready convenience of the devout who chose to place candles before it, that they might not be compelled to enter the church for that purpose, to call on all passengers by the conspicuous appearance to contribute to this effect, or constantly remind them to fall on their knees, tell their beads, and say their paters, aves, and creeds. That such was its purpose requires but a visit to the churches in the Netherlands, Bruges, and Ghent, affording examples of the very same in full practice at the present day.

Yours, etc., S. R. MEYRICK.

[1826, Part II., pp. 583-585.]

It is but right to observe that Price, in his " History of Leo- minster," published in 1795, has another idea respecting this curious chamber. He says : " On the left hand of the north door into the church is a little apartment, vulgarly said to be built by one Vaulker, who built the church as a tomb for himself, and so goes by that name ; but more probably was designed as a place for penitents, where they might look into the church and hear prayers, but were not to be admitted into communion till after they had shown signs and proofs of their amendment and repentance." But, setting aside the Decorated style, which would hardly have been lavished on such a subject, the arch would have come down to the floor, instead of resting on an altar-like tomb, which renders the space too small and inconvenient for such a purpose. Two things we learn from the tradition, that it was considered as sepulchral, and that it was coeval with the church— facts clearly evidenced by the architecture. As the form may be better understood by representation than descrip- tion, I subjoin the following sketches.

The east window of the chancel contains several specimens of painted glass coeval with the building, but much mutilated. Three figures and part of another still exist, as do two emblazoned shields, which appear to be vaire\ gules and ermine, three bars azure, and a quarterly bearing so jumbled together, from being misplaced from its original position, as to be quite unintelligible. In the windows right and left of the altar are the arms of Mortimer, and in the last window of the north aisle is the figure of an archbishop. On the south of the chancel are three stone seats in the manner of steps for the two officiating priests and the sub-deacon ; one arch covers the two first, and another the last. A niche just beyond, but of the same character, encloses the piscina.

The chancel contains the following monuments : On the north

1 90 Herefordshire.

side, one to the late rector, the Rev. Richard Evans ; another to the relict of Thomas Ravenscroft, Esq., the son of Mutton Davies, Esq., "of an ancient and loyal family in Flintshire." She died December 14, 1732, aged sixty-three. On the south side of the altar is the mural monument to the memory of Mrs. Isabella Davies, " bed-chamber woman to one of the best of Queens," who died in 1760; and a black tablet to Peter Smith, Esq., of Street. On the south side of the chancel is a handsome monument to Thos. Cutter, of Street Court, Esq. ; and a more modern one to the memory of the Rev. Robt. Crowther, Rector of Spratton, Northamptonshire. There is also a monument with a classical Latin inscription to John Davies, Esq., which was removed about thirty years ago from Bridgnorth. The clerestury windows are all circular, the ornament being a trefoil intersecting a triangle.

In saying that this church was built hy Edward, Lord Mortimer, it is true that I have no document on which to found that assertion ; but as he made his younger son Walter rector of it in the reign of Edward I., and the architecture and painted glass is of that period, I think myself fully warranted in assigning the structure to him.

S. R. MEYRICK.

[1840, Part II., pp. 259, 260.]

The recent discovery in the chancel of Kingsland Church, in Herefordshire, under one of the seats, of the monument of Dr. John Hughes, supplies what Walker and Anthony a Wood were unable to say, viz., whereabouts in that county he was benificed. The inscription runs thus :

" H. S. E. JOANNES HUGHES, S. T. P. e celebri familia inter Monse Vene- cloturum Insulares Ortus, Qui cum SS. LL. studia potiora sihi potissimum elegisset SS. Ordines aniplexus, Archidiaconalu Herefordiensi, Paebenda in ecclesia Calhe- drali, in Landavensi item AHera, Ornatus. Hujus ecclesiae pastorali regimini Prxpositus, Eidem complures annos fideliter Prsefuit. In motibus Nostratium immotus, Animi, Vita;, Fideique integer, Obiit 7 Idd. Jun. Anno 1648, Fere Septuagenarius. Oliverus Hughes, F. N. M. Patri charissimo Parentavit."

Walker, in his " Sufferings of the Clergy," part ii., p. 34, informs us that John Hughes, Doctor of Divinity, was Archdeacon of Hereford, and had the prebend which is called the golden prebend ; adding, " of whom I know nothing more, save that I take him to be the same John Hughes who, Wood saith (vol. i., p. 139), was admitted Doctor of Divinity of Corpus Christi College in Oxford in i62r, was then son-in-law to Dr. Francis Godwin, Bishop of this church, and was beneficed [qy. if he lost that also*] somewhere in Herefordshire, where he died about the year 1648." Wood, in his "Fasti," tells us that he, with three others, was made Doctor of Divinity on July 2, 1621. The whole four were admitted in the following order: Paul Godwin, of Magdalen College, compounder ; Robert Robotham,

* That is as well as his prebend, which the Parliamentarians confiscated.

Kingsland. i g i

of Magdalen College, compounder; Thomas Godwin, of Christ Church ; and John Hughes, of Corpus Christi College. Paul and Thomas Godw n were the sons of the Bishop of Hereford, and Robotham and Hughes were his sons-in-law ; the last of which was beneficed in Herefordshire, where he died about 1648. The dis- covery of the monument shows us that this benefice was the rectory of Kingsland.

He was collated to the archdeaconry on July 8, 1623, which, after his deprivation, was not again filled up till the Restoration in 1660, when, on September 24, George Benson, S.T.P., was installed.

Yours, etc., SAM. R. MEYRICK.

Kington.

[1846, Part II., p. 525.]

An ancient monument in the church of Kington, erected to the memory of Sir Thomas Vaughan, of Hergest, who died in 1469, and his lady Elena, having become ruinous through a long course of time and an eyesore in the church, has been lately extensively restored by Mr. Jennings, of Hereford, in the execution of which he has shown great skill and ability as a sculptor. Above the monument, and affixed to the wall, instead of the inscription heretofore painted thereon, is a large stone tablet, containing particulars and armorial bearings of eleven generations of Mr. Vaughan's descendants, ter- minating in Roach Vaughan, mother of the Right Hon. the E irl of Oxford. The monument and tablet are protected by a strong iron railing, which was not the case in the former instance. The whole has been executed by the direction and at the expense of the Hon. Miss Harley.

Knill.

[1820, Part //., p. 297.]

The accompanying drawing . . . (see Plate I.) is a view of Knill Court (with a prospect of the vale of Radnor), the seat of the family of Walshain, now of Colonel Walsham Garbett, the late Lady Rnmilly's brother. Lady Rotnilly and her sisters were born here, and resided here some years with their father, Francis Garbelt, Esq. Lady Romilly was the eldest daughter, whose lamented death, and the consequent breaking down of the great mind of her affectionate husband, are fresh in the recollection of your readers. She and Sir Samuel were both buried in Knill Church, which is seen in the view. The original drawing from which this is copied was taken in company with Lady Romilly in 1794.

The parish of Knill, in the hundred of Wigmore, and county of Hereford, is situated on the very borders of Herefordshire, adjoining Radnorshire ; it is two miles and a quarter from Kington, four miles from Prebteigne, and about twenty from the county town. It is a

1 9 2 Herefordshire.

discharged rectory, value 1 in the King's Books at ^4 los. The patron is Colonel Garbett. The church is dedicated to St. Michael. The resident population in 1801 was 72. J. W.

Ledbury.

[1793, Part II., p. 911.]

In Ledbury Church, in Herefordshire, are the following monu- ments. On the pavement of the chancel is a gravestone, on the top of which is a figure in brass of St. Peter, with the keys in his hand ; and at the bottom a man in robes kneeling, with an inscription :

"3*8 P»t' nost' (or -Sere ESillu' (Ealiuc •Ehat Jobeb tod flSub aitb all haltoe."

In the body of the church, on a brass plate, is :

" Here lieth Sarah, the wife of George Skippe, esq. She was borne the I2th of July, 1642, ami was buried ihe 3Oth of June, 1665, being th^ (laughter and co-heir of Isaac Rigby, of London, gene. Abiit n.m obiit, preiit non periit."

In the south aisle, against the last wall :

"To the memory of MARY, the wife of Ambrose Elion, of the Hazle, gent, and daughter of Sir Giles Bray, of Harrington, in the couniy of Gloucester, knight, descended from the Lord Rc-ginald Bray, who came in with Henry the Seventh. Shee departed this life the 27th day of Sept. anno D'ni 1671, aged 53. She had issue 6 children ; 3 sons and 3 daughters."

The arms are : Paly of six or and gules, over all, a bend sable, charged with three mullets or, impaling arg., a chevron sable, between three crows legs erased of the last.

Crest — An escallop-shell or. ...

MATTHEW KNAPP.

Leominster.

[1853, Part I.,p(>. 299, 300.]

Some excavations now in progress have disclosed the foundations of a remarkable Norman church, which belonged to the priory of Leominster in Herefordshire. It was attached to the east end of the present parish church, or rather the parish church was erected to the westward of that of the priory. After the dissolution of monasteries the priory church was allowed to fall into ruins, and its ddbris has existed to the present time to the height of some seven or eight feet above the neighbouring level. At the erection of the Union Work- house some relics connected with the structure were disclosed ; but curiosity on the subject had lain dormant until the recent meeting at Ludlow of the Cambrian Arch<eolOi>ical Association, when Mr. A. Freeman, of Dursley, delivered an architectural discourse upon the spot, which has been published in the last number of the •" Archaeo- logia Cambrensis " (New Series, vol. iv., p. 9). On that occasion Mr. Freeman alluded to the great probability of the former existence of a

Leominster. 193

central tower with transepts, etc., at the east end of the present Norman edifice, and assigned as a reason for believing that such buildings existed, certain appearances at the east end of the present structure, consisting of some projections which probably formed a pier of the west and north arches of the lantern, and also the stump of another supposed pier at the northern end of the transept. In the middle of December last the embankment of the Shrewsbury and Hereford railway began to make its appearance in the meadows a few hundred yards below the workhouse premises, and the question of the propriety of lowering and levelling the high ground of the work- house garden having been discussed, it was thought probable that the railway contractors might at their own expense remove any surplus soil to their enbankment below, and by a tacit consent a square hole was sunk in the garden in order to ascertain the nature of the sub-soil. After sinking to the depth of about 5 feet, the workmen came to some rough stone work, and this accident, acting upon the curiosity which had been engendered by Mr. Freeman's speculations, has led to the subsequent discoveries. The foundations of the Norman choir, presbytery and transepts have been gradually de- veloped, and finally a chapel at the extreme east end.

We are favoured by Mr. Freeman with the following outline of these researches, with his remarks upon the appearances they present :

The existing church consists of the nave of a Norman building, whose south aisle has given way to a large structure of Early English and Decorated date, which extends to the southward of the south transept, and which from its size, distinctness and general treatment, may be best considered as a second church. In addition to the d priori probability that the Norman portion was merely the western limb of a cross church, positive evidence to that effect was found in the existence of what was evidently the south-western pier of the central tower, though now serving as a buttress, and in that of a small portion of the south wall of the transept, with an adjoining pilaster, marking its extent to the south. Some expressions of Leland's seemed also to refer to the building of which these were fragments, and further led to the belief that the original short Norman presby- tery would be found not to have been subjected to later extensions.

These conjectures have all been confirmed by the recent excava- tions. The whole of the south transept and of the presbytery has been traced out, and the surrounding aisle and chapel of the latter are in process of discovery. Owing to the nature of the ground the north transept has not yet been touched, and it may perhaps be found impracticable to extend the excavations to that portion of the building.

The shape of the church must have been somewhat irregular, the four limbs not being of the same width ; both presbytery and transept

VOL. xvn. 13

1 94 Herefordshire.

being narrower than the nave. This drives us to the conclusion that the central tower was actually narrower from east to west than from north to south, as at Bath Abbey and Leonard Stanley, in Gloucester- shire, and had not merely the transept arches narrower, as at Malmes- bury arjd elsewhere. The space under the tower, forming the choir, must therefore have been unusually small ; while the presbytery, or eastern limb, is itself so short that the stalls can hardly have run east of the tower. This may be perhaps explained by remembering that Leominster was not an independent priory, but merely a cell to Reading, and, consequently, the number of monks present at any one time would probably always be small. The length of the nave is about 125 feet, of the choir under the tower about 30, of the presbytery about 42. This includes the apse, which has a radius of about 8 feet. As the high altar probably stood on its chord, it will be seen that the eastern limb, as well as the space under the tower, were of very confined dimensions.

The western and southern arches of the central tower had oddly- formed rectangular piers of several orders, but as the inner wall of the presbytery only ranges with the inner member of the south- western pier, we must suppose that the eastern arch of the lantern sprang from corbels. There must therefore have been a considerable amount of singularity, not to say awkwardness, in the treatment of the tower both within and without.

The presbytery was surrounded by an aisle. Very great difficulty was found in the excavation of this portion, and very many conjec- tures were offered during its progress ; the final result has been the discovery of a most important example of a Norman apse, with radiating chapels. The foundations have been discovered of an aisle running round the presbytery, with an apse diverging to the north-east and south-east, and, finally, a small projecting chapel has been discovered at the extreme east end, which has not yet been excavated all round, but which may be reasonably concluded to have also had an apsidal termination. The outer walls of the aisle have a double range of flat pilasters — a marked characteristic of the church throughout — the inner ones probably acting as vaulting shafts, the external, of course, as buttresses.

The south transept has been entirely exhumed. It had no eastern aisle, but one of the eastern apses so usually found in that position. A Decorated sepulchral arch at its extreme south was found to be of remarkable height, and exhibited clear signs of mediaeval whitewash. A Norman string above it, evidently in situ, which existed at the visit of the Cambrian Archaeological Association, had been destroyed before the excavations commenced— so easily may important evidence on such points be lost. Whether the transepts had western aisles is still uncertain ; the fact that the eastern bay of the north aisle was destroyed with them looks as if they had ; there are also some signs

Leominster. 195

of jambs at the east end of the great southern addition ; but it is not yet clear whether they are those of an original arcade, or of mere doorways between that addition and the south transept.

The whole of the foundations discovered seem, as far as can be ascertained, to be of the untouched Norman work ; so that any later alterations must have been entirely confined to insertions in the superstructure. It is easy to imagine the general effect of the build- ing, which, with the varied grouping of the two towers and of the numerous apses, must have been one of the most picturesque of its kind

Longtown. [1788, Part II., p. 601.]

I have enclosed you a drawing of the remains of Longtown Castle, situated in the south-west angle of the county of Hereford. The town, like its castle, is so much reduced, that at present it consists of a long scattered village, has a few good houses, a small chapel where service is performed, and a free school. From several points of view this village has a most pleasing and picturesque appearance ; the Hatterell mountains, two miles from hence, are a grand object, and seen to great advantage. Longtown may reasonably be supposed to have been the Blestium of Antoninus, which Camden and other antiquaries have fixed at Oldcastle, two miles farther to the south ; but at Oldcastle there are no remains of banks and ditches, whereas at Longtown the former are considerable, and at a small distance have the same appearance as the site of Ariconium, three miles from Hereford. The imposing name of Oldcastle might perhaps be taken from the remains in the neighbourhood, for it is not a ruin, but a parish. The village of Crasswell is a few miles north-west of Long- town, in a situation much sequestered. I intend soon to visit it ; if I find any vestige of its nunnery remaining worth notice, I will com- municate it to you. JAMES WATHEN.

Longworth. [1792, Part I., p. 298.]

Of the two small drawings herewith sent you (see Plate II.), the first, Longworth Chapel, is four miles from Hereford, near the seat of Mr. Walwynn, the member for the city. It is well preserved, but for many years has had no service performed in it. From many parts of the pleasure-grounds of Longworth it is a very picturesque object.

The White Cross, one mile west of Hereford, is well known to all travellers from Hereford to South Wales. It appears, from the arms upon it, to have been founded by Lewis Charlton, Bishop of Here- ford, near 1345, in commemoration of a market being held here at the time the plague was in Hereford. On the monument of this Bishop Charlton, in the north side of the south aisle of Hereford

13—2

1 96 Herefordshire.

Cathedral, is a cross and arms the same as on the building. This monument and some others were, a few years since, drawn and engraved. Yours, etc., J. WATHEN.

Marden.

[1791, Part I., p. 9.]

Enclosed you will receive a drawing of Marden Church, five miles north of Hereford ; it is situated near the river Lug, and is one mile from Sutton-walls, or camp, a spot your antiquarian readers, I con- clude, are well acquainted with. The following account of Marden is given by Leland (vol. v., p. 66) : " Marden village is about a myle from Sutton, and harde by ys a hill wher, as men say, St. Ethebirt was behedded. At the village is now a faire chirche dedicate to him ; I think verely that he was slain at Sutton in King Offa's house. The name of Marden seemeth to express Martyrs-hill." The parish church of Marden was built on the spot where Ethelbert was first buried. In the church are several old monuments, some to the memory of the Burghills, who were formerly Lords of Burghill and Tillington, in this neighbourhood. This part of Herefordshire has long been celebrated for the richness of the soil and its fine planta- tions of fruit-trees, particularly the villages of Bodenham, Marden, and the Suttons, St. Michael, and St. Nicholas, the cider made here being generally esteemed for its superior quality. The fine meadows, known by the name of the Lug meadows, extend some miles by the river of the same name near these villages ; our Herefordshire bard (Philips), in his poem of "Cider," justly remarks,

" The meadows here with battening oze enrich'd Give spirit to the grass."

If the celebrated Sutton walls have engaged the attention of the antiquarian, it also merits the notice of the traveller, as a more beautiful scene can scarcely be conceived than the charming vale beneath, consisting of rich meadows and orchards watered by the Lug, with the adjoining woods cf Tellington and Dinmore, bounded by the Radnorshire hills to the north-west. The country to the south-east is equally pleasing, Stoke Park and Church with the Malvern hills being principal objects. A few miles from Marden, north, in a beautiful vale finely wooded, is the venerable and magnifi- cent old mansion of Hampton Court, built in the reign of Henry IV. ; it has lately received considerable improvements from the present noble owner, Lord Viscount Maiden (a descendant of the Coningsbys), who has shown much taste and skill in opening the wood and laying out the grounds and plantations. J. WATHEN.

On a monument in Marden Church, to the memory of Philibert Burghill, of the family of the Lords of Burghill and Tillington : "Obiit Dec. 30, 1653. .tt. 87."

(Inscription omitted.)

Nonupton. \ g 7

Nonupton.

[1841, Parti., pp. 591, 592.]

The village of Nonupton, or more properly Nun's Upton, is situated at the distance of a few miles from Tenbury in Worcester- shire, among some high grounds over which are still scattered the relics of ancient forests. It is not far from the point where meet the three counties of Worcester, Salop, and Hereford, and stands within the latter. The name would lead us to suppose that it may have formerly belonged to the nuns of Leominster. The venerable tree, of which the above engraving is a representation, stands on the high part of the hill not far from the village, and its aged appearance is sufficient to convince us that it formed a part of the forest which stood here in the days of William the Conqueror. The trunk is hollowed by decay, and its branches have been much mutilated by the effects of time. The circumference of the trunk near the ground is 50 feet; at the height of a yard and a half from the ground it measures 33 feet in circumference. In a few years probably it will have ceased to exist, and it merits the present memorial as one of the finest old trees which England possesses. W.

Peterchurch.

[1829, Part II., pf. 496, 497.]

Peterchurch is the name of a parish pleasantly situated in the Golden Vale, or Vale of the Dore, in the south-western part of the county of Hereford. The church possesses considerable interest from the singularity of its plan.

The present edifice consists of four apartments, the westernmost being the original nave, and the others the chancel. The present nave is formed of two of these apartments, which communicate under a semicircuhr arch, the imposts adorned with the starry moulding.

It is entered from the outside by two doorways placed north and south, the former of them in the early Pointed style, and protected by a porch, the latter a semicircular arch springing from attached shafts, and enriched with convex and concave zigzag, billet, and lozenge mouldings, the head of the arch filled with a transom stone. This portion of the building receives light from ten windows, four of them loopholes, the same number of two lights with trefoil heads, a single light, and one in the roof of two lights ; the two last are comparatively modern. A circular newel staircase in the north wall formerly led to the rood-loft ; it now conducts to a gallery ; under this gallery is preserved some oak carving of an elegant scroll pattern, which probably formed part of the ornamental work in the screen or the rood-loft. In the south wall is a small trefoil-headed piscina.

The present chancel is entered under a lofty semicircular arch, and, like the nave, comprises two apartments. The first is in plan a

1 98 Herefordshire.

parallelogram ; the second, or easternmost, terminates in a half-circle. These are lighted by five long narrow apertures, which were doubtless originally mere loopholes, although only three of them remain as such. It would appear, then, that this church, when first completed, obtained light only from those small openings ; for all the windows of a greater size are evidently of much later date than the walls. The semicircular apsis, or niche, is particularly remarkable for contain- ing the ancient altar in a perfect state; it is made of square-set masonry, coated with plaster, and covered by a freestone table or slab marked with five small crosses, one at each angle and one in the centre. This slab is 6 feet 3 inches in length, 3 feet 3 inches in breadth, and 6 inches thick • the total height of the alttar is 32 inches.

The tower, situated at the extreme western end of the church, is 71 feet in height, contains a clock and six bells, bearing date 1782, and is surmounted by a lofty octagonal stone spire.

The font, elevated on two steps, is a circular stone basin, banded with indented and cable mouldings; it is 25 inches in diameter and 27 inches in height.

In the chancel are sepulchral memorials to some descendants of the family of De-la-Hay, formerly of Urish Hay, in this parish, with the arms, argent, an estoile of sixteen points gules ; to two of the Vaughans, father and son, of Hinton Court in this parish, with the arms, sable, a chevron between three boys' heads couped at the shoulders argent, crined or, wreathed round the necks with as many snakes proper ; and to some other individuals of minor importance.

Against the western wall of the nave is affixed a stone tablet, whereon is sculptured the figure of a large trout, having a chain round the back part of its head ; it has been recently painted and gilt, and the names of the churchwardens added. The story told in the village respecting this fish is simply as follows :

Many years since a trout was caught in the river Dore, which runs through the parish, wearing a gold chain round the back part of its head; a plaster cast of it was immediately taken, an artist employed to execute the above, a faithful representation ; and when finished it was placed in the church as a perpetual memorial of the circum- stance.

It was suggested to me by a gentleman resident in the county, who has investigated its antiquities, and who has indeed published the result of a portion of his labours, that, as the church is dedicated to St. Peter, this tablet may have reference to the finding of the piece of money by Peter, as recorded in Matt. xvi. 27. To this opinion I feel inclined to dissent, first, because the stone bears no mark of great antiquity, and was put up probably long since the Roman Catholic religion had been dominant — at a time when the people never thought of their patron saint as such, except when keeping his

Peterchiirch. 199

revel or feast ; secondly, because it is unlikely the sculptor would have encircled the fish with a chain, when the more obvious illustra- tion of the subject would have been to insert a piece of money in the mouth. Perhaps your correspondents may be able to throw some light on the matter.

This church, singular in form, ancient in structure, curious in its contents, connected as these are with local tradition and widely- spread superstition, claims the attention of every visitor.

WILLIAM SAWYER.

[1830, Part I., pp. 317, 318.]

It is well known that, in Catholic countries, the Mother of Christ is designated by the appellation of the Fish Virgin — " La Vierge au Poisson ;" and an engraving in my possession, beautifully coloured and gilded, and designed probably for a prayer-book, or some book of Catholic devotion, has the following group : the Virgin with the Infant Jesus, and Joseph, all radiated, and the last holding a book, probably intended for the Old Testament, or book of the Prophecies, foretelling the advent of the Messiah ; but lastly is a figure, winged and radiated, and of feminine appearance, who intro- duces to the Virgin a boy bearing a fish, which he offers to her with bended knees. This fish has the appearance of a trout, but whether designed for one or not, I cannot say. Beneath the whole, however, is printed — " La Vierge au Poisson."

Having inquired in vain, of a few Roman Catholics, why they call Mary the "Fish Virgin," perhaps some of your readers will kindly give me the requisite information.

That the fish, however, in Peterchurch refers to the "Fish Virgin," I have not the smallest doubt ; for as to the church being dedicated to St. Peter, it will be of no great weight with those who know how many churches, dedicated in aftertimes to one saint, were originally dedicated to another. Of this we have an instance in my own neighbourhood ; but, what will be more satisfactory, by referring to your own Magazine, vol. xcviii., part ii., p. 237, you may find the point settled on better authority.

The ground-plan of Peterchurch, with its circular east end, double chancel, and semicircular arches, enriched with convex and concave zigzag, billets, and lozenge mouldings, etc., convinces me that it is, at least as to some parts, of very great antiquity, and justifies the suspicion that it was originally dedicated to the Virgin.

It is extremely well known that even the name of the Saviour was formerly, if it is not still, nearly excluded from the devotions ot some people by the homage paid to the " Fish Virgin," and the multitude, whose sanctity or ambition procured them a place in the Roman calendar. They still call her "the Mother of God," with the highest appellations, ascribe to her innumerable miracles, and have

2oo Herefordshire.

dedicated to her more churches and chantry chapels than to Christ Himself. Your volumes show, in many parts, the idolatry in which her very name was held ; and those who will turn to that of xcviii., part ii., p. 391, perhaps will be satisfied that no more need be said upon the subject.

But, besides all this, who does not know how common are allusions to the Virgin, in all our ancient Catholic structures, sometimes by a single letter, jfft., and sometimes by portraits on wood, stone, and glass ? Sometimes in porches, sometimes in the nave or chancels of our churches? In short, in all parts and forms. . . .

The stone in question being in the interior of a church, the sculpture may, perhaps, be more ancient than your correspondent supposes. But, supposing it comparatively modern, who can doubt that it has been sculptured from an original, now lost or destroyed? At Dewsbury, in Yorkshire, at the east end of that church, we have a copy of a Saxon wheel-cross, known to be taken from an older copy, and that copy, probably, from the original, as Dr. Whitaker, on the most rational ground, believed.* What, then, more likely than that a stone should be carefully preserved at Peterchurch, which would be interesting to its natives on more accounts, peradventure, than one.

As to the village tradition, it is perfectly contemptible ; and as to the taste of painting and gilding the stone, and putting upon it churchwardens' names, I leave it to antiquaries to pronounce judgment. N. S.

Pulley.

[1795, Part II., pp. 641, 642.]

I have enclosed three different views of the cross in Putley church- yard (Plate II.). The figures on three sides are very well executed and perfect ; that of the fourth is so much mutilated as not to admit of any explanation in a drawing. The east view, No. i, represents the Virgin and Child; the west, No. 2, the Crucifixion; and the north-west, No. 3, St. John the Evangelist. The church of Putley is small and near, contains no monuments, but, with a venerable yew- tree and its curious cross, afford altogether a very pleasing and picturesque scene. The reason, I conclude, that this cross has suffered so little injury, compared with that of most others that were so highly ornamented, was, from its being situated in a very seques- tered spot, nearly embosomed in trees, and the roads in and near this parish so low and deep as in the winter months to be almost in- accessible. . . . Putley is situated twelve miles east from Hereford and four from the town of Ledbury. The patrons of this living are the Dean and Chapter of Hereford Cathedral, and it is generally held by one of the members of the college of vicars-choral in that church.

J.W.

" History of Leeds," etc., vol. ii., p. 299.

Tedslone D e lamer e, 201

Tedstone Delamere.

[1811, Part I., pp. 429, 430.]

The parish church of Tedstone Delamere, in the county and diocese of Hereford, is situated at a short distance from the Parsonage upon the declivity of a hill, commanding a beautiful and extensive prospect over nearly the whole of Worcestershire, into Staffordshire, Warwickshire, and Gloucestershire. The Malvern Mountains, clustering grandly in full view, appear not more than ten miles distant ; and the Cotswold, Breedon, Broadway, Ridgeway, Lickey, Clent, and Abberley Hills, besides the nearer ones of Barrow and Ankerdine, form also noble features in the scene. . . . Near the south door of the church are two prostrate figures, much worn by time and human footsteps, but whose effigies they are no inscription informs us. They seem habited in the costume of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, perhaps about which time the church was built, as a sacramental cup and cover belonging to the parish bears the date

of 1573-

In the chancel of the church are the following sepulchral in- scriptions :

1. Upon a flat stone :

" Hie jacet in tumulo Richardus Creswell, Gen. qui obiit vicesimo tertio die Aprilis, setatis suse anno octogesimo quarto, Redemptionis humane 1543 ; Carolo primo cum Anglias proceribus periculose litigant."

2. Upon a flat stone :

" Here lielh the body of James Tarry, M.A., descended of an antient family ; who was eminent for his humble spirit, religious life, and generous behaviour and conversation. He was Prebend of the Church of Hereford, and Rector of this Parish 40 years ; where he deceased the I2lh of September, 1671, being aged near 80 years. ..."

Upon the same stone :

"Here lieth the body of Mary, the wife of George Primrose, gent., buried Dec. 25th, 1687."

3. Upon a flat stone :

" Hie jacit Thomas Dolman, Artium Magister, hujus Ecclesire Rector ac decus : pietate vera, summa eruditione, snnclitate ac suavitate marum, insignis typus. Melior pars, corporea soluta mole, in ccelis fulget, terrenas contemnens ipsaque tumulum ossaditant. Obiit quarto die Decembris, 1690, a;tatis suse 39."

4. Upon a mural monument, bearing arms — a lion rampant with two heads argent, on a shield or :

" Juxta inhumantur reliquire Roberti Mason, qui fuit Pretorii Dominus et hujus Ecclesu-e Patronus ; Qui falls cessit 16 April, ann. 1681. petal, sure Ixiii. Et, in eodem tumulo, Hesteroc Uxoris ejus, quse obiit 28 die Sep. 1709, astat. suoe Ixxxiii. Filiorum itidcm quinque Filiarum binarum, quos ornavit vivos vita coelebs. Beati inortui i/iii in Domino nioriuuttir. Pietate posuit Robertus Filius solus superstes."

2O2 Herefordshire.

5. Upon a flat stone :

" Subtus inhumantur reliquiae Gulielmi Mason, qui obih 19° die Septembris, 1693, cetatis suae 70. Et Richardi Filii ejus, qui obiit anno setat. suae 69, ann. Dom. 1717."

6. Upon a mural tablet :

"Near to this place lye interred, the bodies of Dorcas, daughter of John Holland, gent, and Katharine his wife, and of German, the son of the said John and Katherine — in hopes of a happy Resurrection, 1726."

7. Upon a mural monument, bearing the arms of the family :

" Near this place lieth the body of the Rev. Mr. John Landon, M. A., Rector of Nustead and Ifield in the County of Kent, who died the 3d day of June 1777, aged 77. His religious principles and literary abilities were evident from what he did and wrote in vindication of the Religion he professed, etc."

8. Upon a flat stone in the aisle :

"Here lieth the body of Frances Bateman, who departed this life, May 28th, An. Uom. 1708."

[Inscription omitted.]

Yours, etc., L. BOOKER.

Walford.

[1840, Part I I,, pp. 357, 358.]

In Mr. Fosbroke's " Sketches of Ross," or " Ariconensia," is given the ancient history of this Manor of Ross Forren (forinsecus), denominated in Domesday Book " Walecford." There are no indicia of ecclesiastical architecture before the time of Henry III. (thirteenth century). Dugdale says in his " Warwickshire " that spires were sub- stituted for towers in woody countries (as was this) by way of land- marks, and there is an ancient illumination of this King Henry asleep, and two priests rearing spires, alluding to some dream.* Alberti, who wrote in the sixteenth century, says :f "Sunt qui putent astro movente etiam hominum animos variari ; ad annos abhinc ccc. usque cccc. tantus viguit fervor religionis ut nati homines viderentur non aliam ad rem magis quam ad sacros sedes con- struendas." The church of Walford, however, contains two aisles, of which one only has traces of the age of Henry in columns, and a lancet-arch window at the end. The other large windows are spoiled by horizontal crossbars, with one graceful exception in the porch; this window has been modelled in facsimile, and the copy appears in the upper windows of the Vicarage-house in the woodcut. In fabricating these windows the whole arch-work was formed out of one perforated slab, the upright being uncuspidated perpendiculars. The priest has only a single seat near the altar, and no locker or piscina appears. In the side-aisle annexed the latter occurs, and as this

* In "Strult's Habits," etc., pi. lix. t De re redif., cxxiv. a. I.

Walford. 203

aisle forms a burial chapel, presumed to have belonged to a knightly family, De Walford, extinct for some centuries, it is presumptive that the piscina belonged to an adjacent altar. The font has the roses of York and Lancaster round the basin part. The flat arch of the reign of Henry VII. forming the large chimney-piece, now a library, here- tofore a kitchen, and there being also in the chancel three narrow windows without mullions, of single ogee-heads, it is likely that the parsonage and font and side windows and priest's seat are all syn- chronous and of the reign mentioned. The tower (being originally the base of a spire, destroyed in the year 1813) has neither angular or other buttresses, and therefore has an ungraceful chimney cha- racter.

Wigmore and Downton. [1797, Part I., pp. 473-475-]

As I lately passed Wigmore Castle, in Herefordshire, I could not avoid stopping to contemplate its ruins. All the splendid characters of the noble family of Mortimer, which involved in them much of the history of England during the reign of the Plantagenets, crowded upon my mind. Ic stands on the slope of one of those circling hills which encompass a large flat, containing the parishes of Lentwardine, Aston, Elton, Lenthall Starks, etc. Within the outer walls is a very high artificial hill, on which are the ruins of the keep, overlooking with great grandeur the flat below. The outer walls, which enclosed much ground, and were very strong, are also entirely in ruins. This property, which was the head of the barony of the Mortimers from the Conquest, probably went, with the rest of their large estates, through the house of York to the Crown, and thence by grant, about the time of James I., to the Harleys ; and still belongs to the Earls of Oxford and Mortimer, who possess a long line of farms hence to Bramton Brian Castle, now also in ruins, and on to Eywood, their present residence, which lies nearer the borders of Radnorshire. Lord Oxford's rents in the parish are about ,£500 a year ; and those of Somerset Davies, Esq. (son of a late receiver-general of the county, formerly of Ludlow), who has a seat here, are about equal to them. Land is now let at about T4S. an acre ; parish cesses, 55. in the pound ; labour, 75. a week ; cutting wheat about 55. per acre.

The Grange, a farm lying in the flat in the parish of Lentwardine (probably the old priory appendant to the castle), is rented at about ^500 per annum, and belongs to the family of Salwey, of the parish of Richard's Castle. To this family also belongs Elton, where is a neat house under the hills close to the church, rented by a brother of Mr. Knight, of Downton, which last owns the parishes of Aston, Lenthall Statks, Burrington, and much in Lentwardine, etc. All these are only separated by one of the surrounding chain of hills from his noble seat at Downton.

204 Herefordshire.

Mr. Richard Payne Knight, M.P. for Ludlow, is well known to the world for his poem entitled "The Landscape " and his "Progress of Civil Society, a didactic Poem, in Six Books," 1796. His house, therefore, built somewhat in the resemblance of an ancient castle, and his grounds were the particular object of my curiosity. In the former I do not think he has been happy ; the irregularity has the effect of study. Instead of that cluster of towers and pinnacles which makes a Gothic building so picturesque, the whole is long and flat ; and, on a closer examination, there has been such a carelessness about the minuter parts of the style that the very battlements want copings. The inside of the house is modern, but affords little to be admired. The eating-room is whimsical, being an octagon with a dome lighted at top, except by one window looking to the front, which seems not to have been a part of the original design, but after- wards made from deficiency of light. There are a few pictures and two ancient statues in the drawing-room, and some excellent books in the library, which is small. The offices are excellent.

But the grounds are a happy exemplification of the ideas contained in "The Landscape." Nature has done that which he has not suffered the hand of art to spoil. The ground falls rapidly from the house into a beautiful little valley, at the bottom of which is a wild and impetuous stream ; and immediately from the opposite bank rises the hill again, clad with rich wood in a variety of shapes to its very summit, and opening at parts into rude sheepwalks, the whole formed out of a waste, which formerly went by the name of Bring- wood Chase.* . . .

This water, called the Team, comes out of Radnorshire, and passing by Knighton, seems to spread itself in a wider and more irregular course, becoming now the boundary in general between the counties of Salop and Hereford. . . .

At the point where this stream issues from its narrow banks to the wider valley, which is overlooked by the castle, Mr. Knight has thrown a bridge across it. A walk descends to this bridge, which, after crossing, a narrow path to the right leads along the margin of the river — the most wild, rich, and solitary path I ever trod— till it brings the passenger to a recluse mill, at which a rustic bridge again conveys him over the furious water to the opposite bank, where an irregular path, still by the side of the river, conducts him till he gradually ascends again to the castle.

To the left of the castle the valley winds with the stream in its course to Ludlow. . . .

Beyond Bringwood Chase, on the hills in front of Downton, stands a lone cottage, called Marinold, in a most romantic situation, looking

* Sir Robert Harley was, July 16, 1604, made forester of Boringwood, alias Bringwood, forest, with the office of the parkership, and custody of the forest or chase of Prestwood for life. Sir Robert was born at Wigmore Castle, 1579.

Wilton. 205

through a deep valley, whose sides, up to their very summit, are clothed with rich wood, into a flat and distant country covered with seats, villages, and churches.

Wilton.

[1753. A 356-1

Wilton Bridge was built in pursuance of an Act of Parliament passed the 39th of Elizabeth, February 9, 1597, over the river Wye, at a ferry a little below the castle ; of stone very durable. It is 335 feet in length and 21 feet in breadth. Has six arches; the middle one is 31 feet diameter ; the outside, or facings, of the arches and the middle of each is 9 inches thicker than the other parts, forming three ribs, the joints of which are waved or indented. From the bridge is a noble causey leading up to the town 923 yards long, and 14, in some places 18, feet wide. Built under the direction of, and by contributions procured by the interest of, the Man of Ross.

The following articles are omitted :

1808, part i., pp. 289-291. Hereford County Gaol.

1809, part i., p. 495. Hereford Cathedral.

References to other volumes of the Gentleman's Magazine Library : — •

Prehistoric Antiquities : — Cruciform mound at Margaret's I'ark ; tumulus at

St. Weonard's. — Archeology, part i., pp. 93, 269; causeway at Moor-

hampton. — Archeology, part ii., pp. 148-151. Anglo-Saxon Remains : — Inscription in Leominster Church. — Arclucology,

part ii., pp. 273-276. Architecture: — Goodrich Castle, Hereford Cathedral. — Architectural

Antiquities, part i., pp. 5, 151-153, 374, 375- Ecclesiology : — Plate of the Cathedral church of Hereford; documentary

history of Hereford Cathedral ; Hereford Cathedral School. — Ecclesiology,

pp. 158, 159, 229, 230, 267. folklore: — Twelfth-day customs; Christmas - Eve customs. — Popular

Superstitions: — pp. 17-20,75. Manners and customs of Herefordshire.

— Manners and Customs, pp. 16-28. Literature : — Libraries in Hertford. — Literary Curiosities, pp. 142, 143.

Hertfordshire.

HER TFORDSHIRE.

[1817, fart //., pp. 109-113.]

ANCIENT STATE AND REMAINS.

British Inhabitants. — Cattieuchlani, or Cassii, and Trinobantes.

Roman Province. — Flavia Qesariensis. Stations. — Verulamimn (the chief city of Cassivelaunus, created a municipium), near St. Albans ; Durolitum, Cheshunt.

Saxon Heptarchy. — Mercia and Essex.

Antiquities. — St. Alban's Abbey Church and Gatehouse; Waltham Cross; Royston Cave; Sopwell Nunnery; Ware Priory; Hertford, Bishop's Stortford, and Berkhamsted Castles ; Hunsdon, Standon, and Rye houses.

St. Albans was a mitred abbey, founded in 793 by Offa, Kin<; of Mercia ; and its abbots were authorized, by a grant from Pope Adrian IV., to take precedence of all others in England. In its noble church had sepulture its historian, Matthew Paris, Humphrey, the "good Duke" of Gloucester, brother of Henry V., and the Lancastrian peers slain in the first battle of St. Albans.

Hertford Castle was the residence of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, who entertained in it the two royal prisoners, John of France and David of Scotland. It was successively possessed by Joan of Navarre, Catharine of France, and Margaret of Anjou, queens of Henry IV., V., and VI.

At King's Langley were buried Piers Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II. ; Edmund of Langley, son of Edward III., with his wife Isabel, daughter of Pedro, Kins; of Castile; and Richard II., whose body was afterwards removed to Westminster by order of Henry V.

PRESENT STATE AND APPEARANCE.

Rivers. — Beane, Bulborne, Colne, Gade, Hiz, Ivel, Kime, Lea, Mimeran, or Manm, New River (whose source is at Chadwell), Oughton, Pirral, Quin, Rhee, Rib, Stort, Thame, Ver, or Meuse.

VOL. xvn. 14

2 1 o Hertfordshire.

Inland Navigation. — Grand Junction Canal ; Lea and Stort Rivers.

Eminences and Views. — Hexton Hills, Brockley Hill, Wilbury Hill, Ravensbury Castle, town of St. Albans' Church, Haven End, Shenley Parsonage.

Natural Curiosities. — Barnet medicinal spring.

Public Edifices. — Hertford Blue-coat School, connected with Christ's Hospital in London ; Hertford College, for the education of young men intended for the civil department in the East India Company's service.

Seats. — HatfielJ House, Marquis of Salisbury, Lord-Lieutenant of the county ; Albans, St., Sir VVm. Domville, Bart. ; Aldenhatn Abbey, Sir C. M. Pole, Bart.; Aspenham Hall, Captain Latour ; Balls, Lord John Townshend ; Bay ford Bury, William Baker, Esq. ; Beerhwooil, Sir John Saunders Sebright, Bart. ; Berkhamsted Place, Hon. Miss Grimston ; Brickendon Bury, • — Dent, Esq. ; Brocket Hail, Viscount Melbourne ; Brookman's, late S. R. Gaussen, Esq. ; Broxbourn Bury, Jacob Bosanquet, Esq. ; Bury Park, Fotherley Whitneld, Esq. ; Bushey Grove, D. Haliburton, Esq. ; Campfield Place, Rev. — Brown; Cassiobury, Earl of Essex ; Cheshunt House, Rev. C. Mavo ; Cocken Hatch, Sir Francis Willes, Bart. ; Colney House, — Simpson, Esq. ; Corneybury, William Butt, Esq. ; Dane End, John Corrie, Esq. ; Digswell House, Hon. Spencer Cowper ; Edge Grove, Wm. Marsden, Esq. ; Gaddesden Place, Joseph Halsey, Esq. ; Gilston Park, William Plumer, Esq. ; Gorhambury, Earl of Verulam ; Grove Park, Earl of Clarendon ; Hamells, late Richard Shavve, Esq. ; Haresfoot, Thomas Dorrien, Esq. ; Hillfield Lodge, John Fann Timins, Esq. ; Hitchin Priory, E. H. Delme Radcliffe, Esq. ; Holywell House, Earl Spencer ; Hoo, Hon. Thomas Brand ; Hunsdon House, Nalson Calvert, Esq. ; Hyde Hall, Earl of Roden ; Knebworth House, Mrs. Lytton ; Lamer House, C. D. Gerrard, Esq. ; Langleybury, Rev. Sir J. Filmer, Bart. ; Lilly House, John Sowerby, Esq. ; Lockleys, • — Mackenzie, Esq. ; Marchmont House, T. A. Green, Esq.; Moor Park, late Robt. Williams, Esq. ; Munden, Rogers Parker, Esq. ; North Minis Place, Hen. Browne, Esq. ; Offley Place, — Burrows, Esq. ; Panshanger, Earl Cowper ; Pauls Warden, Hon. Thomas Bowes Bruhl ; Pishiobury, Mrs. Mills ; Porters, Marchioness of Sligo ; Potterells, Justinian Casamajor, Esq. ; Rothamsted, J. B. Lawes, Esq. ; Russel Farm, Lord Henley ; Sacombe Park, George Caswall, Esq. ; St. John's Lodge, Sir C. Cuyler, Bart. ; Salisbury Hall, William Snell, Esq. ; Sandridge Lodge, G S. Marten, Esq. ; Stagenhoe Park, R. T. Heysham, Esq. ; Tewin Water, Henry Cowper, Esq. ; Theobalds Park, Sir George Beeston Prescott ; Tittenlianger, Earl of Hardwicke ; Tring Grove,

- Broadwood, Esq. • Tring Park, Sir Drummond Smith, Bart.j Ware Park, Thos. Hope Byde, Esq. ; Watton Wood Hall, Sam. Smith, Esq. ; Westbroke Hay, Hon. Rich. Rider; Woodhall, Sam.

History. 2 1 1

Smith, Esq. ; Wormleybury, Sir Abr. Hume, Bart. ; Youngsbury, Daniel Giles, Esq.

HISTORY.

A.D. 61, Verulam taken and destroyed by Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni.

A.D. 796, at Offley, died Offa, the great King of Mercia. Near Ware, Alfred captured the Danish fleet by diverting the waters of the Lea from their original channel.

A.D. 1066, at Berkhamsted, William the Conqueror took the oath imposed upon him by Fretheric, Abbot of St. Albans, that he would keep the laws of Edward the Contessor.

A.D. 1272, at Berkhamsted, died Richard, King of the Romans, Earl of Cornwall, brother of Henry III.

A.D. 1312, at Whethamsted, assembled the forces of the Barons in arms against Edward II. and his favourite Gaveston.

A.D. 1362, at Hertford Castle, died Joan, wife of David, King of Scotland, and sister of Edward III.

A.D. 1381, to St. Albans came Richard II. and his Chief Justice Tresilian, with a guard of 1,000 men, when fifteen of the insurgents, under Wat Tyler, were hung in chains ; and the male inhabitants of the county, from fifteen to sixty years of age, attended and took an oath never to disturb the public peace.

A.D. 1399, at Hertford, Henry, Duke of Lancaster (afterwards Henry IV.), kept his Court when Richard II. was deposed.

A.D. 1455, at St. Albans, May 23, Henry VI. wounded and taken prisoner ; Duke of Somerset. Earls of Northumberland and Stafford, Lord Clinton, and 800 Lancastrians, slain by Edward, Duke of York, and Richard Neville, "the king-making " Earl of Warwick.

A.D. 1461, at St. Albans, February 17, the great Earl of Warwick and Yorkists defeated by Margaret of Anjou. In this battle Sir John Grey, of Groby, first husband of Elizabeth Widville (afterwards Queen of Edward IV.), and 2,300 men were slain.

A.D. 1468, near Barnet, April 14. Lancastrians defeated, and their commander, the Earl of Warwick, "that centre-shaking thunderclap of warre," with his brother, the Marquis of Montacute, and 10,000 men, slain by Edward IV.

A.D. 1496, at Berkhamsted, died Cecily, Duchess of York, mother of Edward IV. and Richard III.

A.D. 1553, at Hunsdon, July, Mary, on her road to London, was informed by the Earl of Arundel of the death of Edward VI., and thereby prevented from falling into the power of the Earl of Northumberland.

A.D. 1603, at Theobalds (then the seat of Robert, first Earl of Salisbury), May 3, the Lords of the Council paid their homage to James I.

14—2

2 1 2 Hertfordshire.

A.D. 1625, at Theobalds (which he had obtained in exchange for Hatfield from the Earl of Salisbury), March 27, died James I.

A.D. 1642, at Theobalds, February, Charles I. received the petitions of both Houses of Parliament, and thence went to put himself at the head of his army.

A D. 1683, at Rye House, was said to be concerted the conspiracy to assassinate Charles II. and his brother James, Duke of York, on their return from Newmarket, for which Lord Russell and Algernon Sydney, without the slightest evidence of their being privy to the intended assassination, were condemned and beheaded.

BIOGRAPHY.

Alban, St., protomartyr of Britain, Verulam (suffered 303).

Albans, St. John de, philosopher, St. Albans, twelfth century.

Baldock, Ralph, Bishop of London, Baldock (died 1313).

Barn_t, John, Bishop of Ely, Lord Treasurer, Barnet (died 1373).

Blount, Sir Henry, traveller, Tittenhanger, 1602.

Bostock, John, Abbot of St. Albans, benefactor, Whethamsted (died 1440).

Bourchier, John, Baron Berners, translator of Froissart, Tharfield (died 1532).

Brekespere, Nicholas, Adrian IV., only English Pope, Abbots Langley, 1090.

Burgess, Anthony, divine, voluminous writer, Watford.

Capel, Arthur, Lord, Loyalist, Hadham (beheaded 1648).

Gary, Henry, first Viscount Falkland, Lord-Deputy of Ireland, Berkhamsted (died 1633).

Cartwright, Thomas, Puritan divine, 1535.

Chauncy, Sir Henry, historian of the county, Yardleybury (died 1700).

Chauncy, Isaac, Nonconformist divine and author, Ware (died 1712).

Cowper, William, poet, Berkhamsted, 1731.

Dike, Daniel, divine, Hemsted (died 1614).

Dike, Jeremiah, divine, Hemsted (died 1620).

Dixon, Nicholas, divine, founder of Cheshunt Church (died 1448).

Duncombe, John, poet and divine, Stocks, 1730.

Duncombe, William, dramatic writer and translator of Horace, Stocks, 1689.

Edwards, John, divine, Hertford, 1637.

Fanshaw, Sir Richard, diplomatist, poet and translator, Ware Park, 1607.

Ferrars, George, lawyer, historian, and poet, near St. Albans, about 1512.

Field, Richard, Dean of Gloucester, theologian, Hemsted, 1561.

Gaddesden, John de, physician, Gaddesden (flor. 1320).

Biography. 2 1 3

Giles, John, "Joannes /Egidius," physician, St. Albans, thirteenth century.

Gorham, Nicholas, commentator on the Scriptures, Gorham (died 1400).

Gunter, Edmund, inventor of the scale, Hertford, 1581.

Guyse, John, author of " Paraphrase on New Testament," Hertford, 1680.

Haddam, Edmund of, Earl of Richmond, father of Henry VII., Haddam (died 1456).

Hale, Richard, founder of Hertford School, Cudicot (died 1640).

Hill, Robt., learned tailor, compared by Spence to Magliabechi, Miswell, 1699.

Humphry, John, Nonconformist divine and author, St. Albans, 1622.

Incent, Jn., Dean of St. Paul's, founder of Berkhamsted School, Berkhamsted.

Janeway, James, Nonconformist divine and author, Kershall (died 1674).

Jennings, Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, Sandridge, 1660.

Ken, Thomas, Bishop of Bath and Wells, one of the seven im- prisoned Bishops, Berkhamsted, 1637.

Kenrick, William, miscellaneous writer, near Watford (died 1777).

King, Sir John, lawyer, St. Albans, 1639.

Langley, Edm. of, Duke of York, fifth son of Edward III., King's Langley (died 1402).

Lee, Nathaniel, dramatic writer, Hatfield (died 1691).

Legat, Hugh, commentator on Boethius (llor. 1400).

Mandeville, Sir John, traveller, St. Albans, 1300.

Nequam, or Neckham, Alexander, Abbot of Cirencestcr, " miraculum ingenii," St. Albans (died 1227).

Pemberton, Sir Francis, Chief Justice, St. Albans, 1625.

Redman, Richard, Bishop of Ely.

Rudborne, Thomas, Bishop of St. David's, chronicler, Rudborne (flor. 1419).

Shute, John, first Viscount Barnngton, statesman, Theobalds, 1678.

Stanley, Thomas, scholar and philosopher, Cumberlow, 1644.

Symonds, Edmund, divine, vindicator of Charles I., Cottered (died 1649).

Titus, Silas, Colonel, author of " Killing no Murder," Bushy.

Tooke, George, poet, Popes, about 1595.

Vincent, Thomas, Nonconformist divine and author, Hertford, 1634.

Walker, John, philologist, author of "Pronouncing Dictionary, Barnet, 1732.

Waller, Edmund, poet, Cole.ihill, 1605.

2 1 4 Hertfordsh ire .

Ward, Seth, Bishop of Salisbury, mathematician, Buntingford, 1617.

Ware, Richard de, Abbot of Westminster, treasurer to Edward I., Ware (died 1283).

Ware, William de, instructor of Duns Scotus, Ware (flor. 1270).

Waterhouse, Sir Edw., Chancellor of Exchequer for Ireland, Helmstedbury, 1535.

White, Sir Thomas, founder of St. John's College, Oxford, Rickmansworth.

MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS.

Albury Hall was the residence of the learned Chief Baron Sir Edw. Atkyns.

At Amwell is a curious grotto formed by John Scott, who resided there, and has described the neighbouring scenery in his poems. Amwell was the burial-place of William Warner, author of "Albion's England," and of Isaac Reed, editor of Shakespeare.

Brantfield Rectory was the first Church preferment of the factious St. Thomas & Becket, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury.

Cheshunt Manor House was the residence of Cardinal Wolsey, and in a house near the church, under the assumed name of Clarke, July 12, 1712, died the ex-Protector, Richard Cromwell, aged eighty- five.

Gorhambury was the residence of Lord Keeper Sir Nicholas Bacon, who frequently entertained his royal mistress there. It was also the residence of his son, "the wisest, greatest, meanest of mankind."

In Hadham Parva Church is an inscription to the memory of Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham, beheaded for his loyalty to Charles I.

In Hatfield Church is the monument of its founder, the politic Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury.

Hunsdon House was the residence of Mary I., Elizabeth, and Edward VI. when children. In the church is the monument of Chief Justice Sir Thos. Forster.

Moor Park was the seat of the beautiful Lucy Harrington, Countess of Bedford ; of Anne, wife of the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth ; and of Lord Anson, the circumnavigator. The latter planted in his kitchen-garden here the apricot, from that circumstance called " the Moor Park."

In North Mims Church is the monument of the patriot Lord Chancellor Somers.

Pelham Furneaux was the vicarage of the eminent divine, Charles Wheatley, who died there 1742.

In Rirkmansworth was buried the translator, Henry Gary, Earl of Monmouth.

Amwell. 2 1 5

Royston has given its name to the " hooded crow," or " corvus cornix," of Linnaeus. According to Holinshed, wheat in the time of Henry VI. was so plentiful as to be sold in this town at i2d. the quarter.

At St. Albans, in St. Michael's Church, is the monument of the great Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam, Viscount St. Alban, who is represented sitting in an elbow chair, in a contemplative posture, with an epitaph by Sir Henry Wotton. In St. Peter's Churchyard lie the remains of the amiable poet and physician, Dr. Nathaniel Cotton, author of " The Fireside," through whose ability the poet Cowper was restored to sanity. The discovery in 1703 of the body of Humphry, the good Duke of Gloucester, lying in pickle in the Abbey Church, gave rise to a well-known epigram written by Garrick as a soliloquy of the epicure Quin.

In Sawbridgeworth Church is the monument of Sir Walter Mild- may, Elizabeth's Chancellor of the Exchequer.

Shenley was the rectory of Philip Fallo, historian of Jersey and Guernsey, and of Peter Newcome, historian of St. Albans.

At Standon resided Sir Ralph Sadleir, Secretary of State, and one of the executors named in the will of Henry VIII., and over his tomb in the church still remains the pole of the banner of the King of Scots, which Sir Ralph took at the battle of Musselburgh in 1547.

Theobalds was the seat of the illustrious William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, where he was repeatedly visited by Elizabeth. In 1606 his son Robert, first Earl of Salisbury, entertained here James I. and Christopher IV., King of Denmark.

At Walkerne lived Jane Wenham, who in 1712 was tried at Hen- ford for witchcraft, and against the opinion of the Judge (Powell) found guilty and condemned, but was pardoned. So lately as 1751, at Tring, Ruth Osborne, a reputed witch, was submitted by a mob to the water ordeal and drowned, but the most active of the mob were afterwards executed for the murder.

In Ware Church were interred Elizabeth, daughter of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, foundress of Clare Hall, Cambridge, and the accomplished Sir William Fanshaw, who was born and resided at Ware Park.

Welwyn was the rectory, residence, and burial-place of Dr. Edward Young, and here his "Night Thoughts" were composed.

At Wormley is the monument of that eminent topographer and antiquary Richard Gough, with an epitaph written by himself.

At Yardleybury Sir Henry Chauncy wrote his history of this county. BYRO.

Amwell.

[1802, Part II., pp. 988, 989.]

In the village of Great Amwell, Herts, a mile and a half south-east of Ware, the New River flows below the steep slope or bank of

2 1 6 Hertfordshire.

A.i.well Hill, and forms an ample pool or piece of water, in which there is an islet, of an elongated form, having the stream gliding on each side of it. In this retired situation, secluded from highways and the more busy scenes of men, some pains have been taken to reduce this spot into form, with neat and plain simplicity.

On the smooth and verdant isle a large weeping willow droops its melancholy boughs in the water at each end ; and a spiring poplar waves in the middle its lofty head and quivers in the breeze. Near the latter a sombre thicket of evergreens, cypress, cedars, yews, and mournful shrubs, forms a circle and covers a swelling tumulus. On that is placed a monumental pedestal of solid Portland, to the virtues of a man, on whom too much praise cannot be bestowed. Pictures by Cornelius Janssen and prints by Vertue, are the only monuments which the arts have dedicated to so much useful talent.

By the gratitude and good taste of Robert Mylne, Esq., the cele- brated architect, a votive urn is erected on the pedestal, and the following inscriptions are engraved on the four sides of it :

i. SOUTH. — To Amwell Spring :

" Sacred to the Memory of Sir HUGH MYDELTON, Baronet ; whose successful care, assisted by the patronage of his King, conveyed this Stream to London. \n immortal work, since men cannot more nearly imitate the Deity than in bestowing health. "

2. WEST.— To Chadwell :

" From (lie Spring of Chadwell, two miles west ; and from this source of Amwell; the aquoeduct meanders for the space of xl. miles: conveying health, pleasure, and convenience to the Metropolis of Great-Britain."

3. NORTH. — Cross the Vale of the Lea :

"M. S. HUGONIS. MYDELTON, Baronetti. Qui . aquas . hasce . . feliciter . Adspnante . favore . Regio . in . urbem . perducendas . curavit . Opus. Im- mrrtale . Homines . enim . ad . Dtos . Nulla . re . propius . accedunt . (juam . Salutem . dando ."

4. EAST. — Towards London :

"This humble tribute to the genius talents and elevation of mind which con- ceived and executed this imporiant aquseduct is dedicated by ROBERT MILNE, architect, engineer, etc., A.I). . M.n.ccc."

.... Emma, a holy and sainted maid, gave name to the limpid spring before its waters were, by this work, embraced and joined with those of Chadwell. The temple of God, the parish church, with its stately Gothic tower, presides, high and lofty, over all ; bestowing (as it were) a blessing on the extensive purposes for which this noble, unexampled, yet unaffected aqueduct was created.

Ax OLD CORRESPONDENT.

Ayot St. Laurence. 217

Ayot St. Laurence.

[1802, Part II., p. 1003.]

The old church of Ayot St. Laurence, now in ruins (Fig. 3), is situated about three miles north-west of Welwyn, in Hertfordshire. It was built by Rahere, who had the manor granted to him by Henry I., and who, according to Chauncey, had been a mountebank and buffoon ;* after which he became a monk. He built the church and priory of St. Bartholomew, in Smithfield ; and was likewise the founder of the hospital there for sick and infirm persons. Henry VIII. granted the manor and advowson of the church to Nicholas Bristow.

In the chancel is a large altar-tomb for Sir John Barley and his lady, with their effigies upon it, well executed.

Against the north wall is a monument for Nicholas Bristow and his wife, with their effigies, and likewise six sons end seven daughters; and an altar-tomb, on which was the arms of Bristow on the south side, with the effigies of eight sons and four daughters, and the follow- ing inscription on brass :

" Here lie the bodys of NICHOLAS BRISTOW, esq., and EMME, his wife, who served the noble princes Henry the Eigt, King Edward, Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth, and died ann. 15. .. ."

The manor is now the property of the family of Lyde. The late Sir Lionel Lyde built a new church in a field adjoining.

In the manor-house is a fine portrait of Nicholas Bristow, by Hans Holbein. The arms were given at the siege of Boulogne in 1544, and are : Erm. on a fess between two cotises sa. three crescents or. Crest, a crescent or, thereout issuant a demi-eagle az. (Fig. 4). The original grant is still in the possession of the family.

Yours, etc., B.

P.S. — In the south wall of Offley Church, near Hitchin, in Hert- fordshire, is the following inscription, with the tiles under it (Figs. 5, 6) :

"These Tiles were found in this church 1777; which proves that King OfTa was buried here."

Barnet.

[1844, Part II. p. 249.]

North of the rural township of Barnet, High Barnet, or Chipping Barnet, as it has been variously called, the hill on which it is placed becomes a level plot about half a mile in breadth, part of which still remains open, or common land. It declines on the east and west into a natural escarpment, and must have presented an eligible military position for an army endeavouring to cover the high road to London. On this little plain the roads to St. Albans and Hatfield diverge north-west and south-east, and on the spot where they divide

* See particularly Malcolm's " London," pp. 266-281.

2 1 8 Hertfordshire.

was erected in 1740* an obelisk of stone about 20 feet in height, commemorating the sure tradition connected with the spot by this inscription on its eastern side :

" Here was fought the famous battle between Edward the Fourth and the Earl of Warwick, April 14, anno 1471, in which the Earl was defeated and slain."

The other sides of the stone record the distances from St. Albans, etc., and prohibit its desecration bv the four times repeated admoni- tion, " Stick no bills." The obelisk is known by the name of Hadley High Stone.

Berkhampstead.

[1843, Part H-ipp- 36-38.]

The Castle of Berkhampstead is so famous in English history as having been the residence of the Black Prince after his return from Bordeaux that an account of its actual condition at this time will not be without interest to your readers.

This castle stands in the parish of Berkhampstead, at the foot of a moderate hill, which occupies its northern and eastern sides, and the ground upon its other sides is flat, naturally marshy, and capable of being flooded without much difficulty.

The castle is composed of a central, or inner bailey, an inner fosse, a middle bailey, an outer fosse, and a third or outer bailey, of small extent, and partially provided with a fosse. There is also a mound attached to the inner bailey, and a sort of ravelin in advance of the fosse on the north side.

The inner bailey is an irregular oval court of considerable size, surrounded by a wall, and containing the remains of various build- ings. The wall is of flint rubble, of moderate thickness. The battle- ments and upper part are everywhere destroyed, and the wall itself has been breached, and the ruins removed in many places. It is also in other parts partially undermined. There are indications of a gate at the southern end, and of a hall, or other large building, towards the north-east corner. On the western side is part of a half- round mural tower connected with some other buildings.

At the north end of this bailey a part is removed to make room for a lofty mound of earth, which rises out of the inner fosse. The summit of this mound shows the foundations of a circular wall, which is connected with the inner bailey by a cross wall, or curtain, which appears to have extended down the side of the mound and across the fosse, and to have formed the only communication between the mound and the rest of the castle.

The inner fosse is a very deep and broad ditch, completely en- circling the mound and inner bailey, and spreading out towards the

* By Sir Jeremy Sambrook. Lysons's " Env. of London," vol. i., part ii.,

P- 753-

Berkhampstead. 219

south and south-east into a considerable pool. The whole of this fosse is wet.

The middle bailey consists of a steep and lofty bank of earth, which forms the division between the inner and the middle fosse, and encircles the whole. This bank is very narrow at the top, and does not appear to have been crowned with a wall, except at one or two very limited portions, where are traces of masonry. Its figure is irregular, and it is highest on the north-eastern side, where the natural defences of the place are least strong. On the southern side of this bank are the remains of a gateway. It is also at present cut through a little east of the gateway for the passage of water, and a little west of the same to form the modern entrance. It is probable that the former opening was anciently defended by a wall and dam with a sluice, but that the latter is wholly modern.

The middle fosse, which surrounds this bailey, is, like the inner one, wet, being fed by the waters cf the adjacent stream. This fosse also encircles the whole place, and it is the most exterior of the works that does so. It also is deepest towards the north-east. On the south-eastern side it expands into an extensive marsh, now, however, curtailed by the embankment of the London and Birming- ham railway. These works complete the defences of the place upon the southern and south-Vestern sides. The higher ground that is opposed to the remainder demanded an additional line of defence, and this is given by the ravelin and the outer bailey and fosse.

The ground begins to rise towards the north-west, and here is placed the ravelin. This is a triangular platform of earth, slightly raised, placed on the outside of the fosse, and having a small fosse of its own. It bears no traces of masonry.

North of this commences the outer bailey. This is a lofty bank of earth, forming the segment of a circle, and thus defending the place on the north-eastern side. Its rear forms the outside, or counterscarp, of the middle fosse ; its top is of no great breadth, level, and bearing no traces of either wall, parapet, or banquette. At its western end it terminates in a considerable mound, or bastion of earth ; at its other, or southern end, it terminates also abruptly, being cut off by a part of the middle fosse. It is also cut across near its middle, and thus divided into two independent parts, whilst its fosse is fed with water from the rear. Along the front of this bank project seven large bastions of earth, commanding the intermediate curtains and the approaches, after the manner of a modern forti- fication.

The bailey is defended by an outer fosse, also for the most part wet. The ground exterior to this fosse rises rapidly, so as to give considerable facilities to those who should attack the castle on this side.

The castle, as it at present stands, is undoubtedly Edwardian, and

22O Hertfordshire.

possibly erected by the Black Prince or his father. The general plan, the moderate thickness of its walls, and the skill shown in the disposition of its fortifications, may be considered as conclusive arguments upon this point. The mound may be of Norman date. If so, the additional works have been most skilfully disposed, so as to derive the greatest benefit from its presence, by causing it to occupy the weakest side. There is, however, no reason stronger than general analogy for regarding this mound as Norman.

The works of the outer bailey are very curious, and closely resemble those of the fortifications in use before the days of Vauban and Cohorn. They are, however, probably original.

It is singular that the middle and outer bailey should be without either walls or parapets, since, in the event of their being taken, they would enable the enemy seriously to annoy the castle. It is to be desired that a careful survey were made of this castle, the works of which would probably throw much light upon the ancient system of fortification. C.

[1834, Part //.,/. 150.]

The parsonage-house of Berkhampstead, the venerated birthplace of Cowper, has been pulled down by the present rector, the Rev. John Croft, who has also cut down the poet's favourite walnut tree. In consequence of the remarks which such sacrilegious proceedings have naturally drawn upon him, Mr. Croft has published a letter vindicat- ing his deeds. We have seldom read a more impotent defence. He acknowledges that the modern house is " unequal in magnitude " to that destroyed, and he also acknowledges "that the tree was of singular growth, beautiful, and a high ornament to the parsonage grounds;'' but it seems that the storms of last winter "agitated his feelings," and he was " alarmed lest some of the lofty and majestic branches might descend upon the roof and involve him in the ruins." He also allows that the elms, under whose shade Cowper had so often meditated, " were stately and umbrageous ; but they had arrived at maturity, and I felt myself justified in converting their value into necessary repairs." In short, he seems to have resolved to leave no vestige of the poet which could possibly induce any stranger to intrude upon his privacy, or any visitor to encroach upon his hospitality. His more proper course would have been to resign the rectory of Berkhampstead.

Bishop's Stortford.

[1795, Part II., pp. 892, 893.]

The Grammar School at Bishop's Stortford . . . was about the middle of the present century suffered to fall into such a state of decay as to furnish a pretext for pulling down the building in order to save the trust the charge of repairing it. It was the custom of this

Bishop's Stortjora. 221

school for every scholar at quitting it to present the library with some book, by which means that collection was become extremely valuable, both on account of the number and eltgance of its volumes. This library is at present taken care of by my worthy and learned friend Dr. Dimsdale, of Bishop's Stortford, who gratuitously gives it room in his house, and but for whose pious concern for this venerable repository it would soon in all probability have become a prey to avarice, and been sold by the pound to the grocers and chandlers of the town. It was founded by Mr. Thomas Leigh, as I find by the MS. records of the school, where his donation is entered in the following words :

"Tho. Leigh, A. M. e coll. Christi Cant, anno 1621, et schote Stortfordiensis ai> eo anno ad presentem 1664, archididascalus, non solum propriis impensis bitjlotht-cam construi et ornari curavit, et libris (qui in hoc catalogo recensentur) locupletandam turn et alumnis turn et amicis impetravit eonim etiam libros proxime frequentes, pro suo et literas amore et ut aliis exemplo esset, largitus est."

Then follows a list of the books he gave, to the amount of several hundred volumes, many of which are extremely rare and of early dates.

" Guil. Leigh, fil. natii max. proedicti magtri Tho. Leigh, et schola; Stortf. alumnus, coll. Christi Cant, socius, & academice procurator electus, donavit.

" Demosthenis, [etc., etc., to the number likewise of some hundreds].

"Tho. Leigh, fil. natu proxirnis prredicti mtri Tho. Leigh. Jacobus Leigh, fil. tertius, scholre hujus alumnus, etc. Johan. Leigh, fil. quartus praedicti M. Tho. Leigh."

The successive benefactors, with their respective donations, then regularly follow down to the year 1745.

In the same book too are entered the names of the reverend clergy who preached the anniversary sermon during a period of near a century.

In Knight's "Life of Dean Colet," Svo., 1724, p. 428, I find the following paragraph :

"Thomas Tooke, D.D., born at Dover, in Kent, was bred under Dr. Thomas Gale, master of St. Paul's School, from under whose care he was removed to Corpus Christi, or Ben'et College, in Cambridge, where he became fellow of that society, and continued so many years. He afterwards became master of Bishop-Stortford School in Hertfordshire, which, by his great industry and happy way of teach- ing and governing, he raised to very great fame : so that for many years it flourished among the very best in the kingdom, and sent out many excellent scholars. It still continues to keep up an anniversary, or school-feast, for the gentlemen educated therein. The present Archbishop of York (Sir William Dawes), the Rev. Dr. Robert

222 Hertfordsh ire.

Mosse, Dean of Ely, Dr. Nicholas Clagett, now Archdeacon of Bucks, etc., have honoured these meetings by preaching on that occasion. After refusing the public schools of Norwich and Bury, he died at Bishop-Stortford in the year 1720. Having by his will given to Ben'et College, aforementioned, after a certain number of years, the perpetuity of the rectory of Lambourn in Essex, where he hail an estate, as also the living of Braxted Magna, in Essex."

In the archives of the school he thus appears :

'• D. Thomas Tooke, S. T. P. Collegii Corporis Christ! quondam socius, postea ecclesise parochialis de Lambourn in agro Essex rector, scholar rle Stortford ep'i per xxx & amplius ann. archididascalus dignissimus simul ac felicissimus ; qui cum literis & moribus bonis juventutae erudiendae & formandae aetatem contriverit, ut post mortem etiam rei literariae consuleret & studiosis prodesset, decem libras ad augendum armarium scholae suae, & viginti solidos quo- tannis pro concione ad annuum festum scholarium habenda extremis testamentis legavit, quam quidem summam si quo anno nulluin festum agerent scholaris libris coemendis in usum bibliothecae scholae suae impend! jussit.

Qui donatione coempta sunt

1738. Phavorini Lexicon Graec. fol.

Cyrilli, Philoxeni, aliorumque glossaria."

Over the chimney in the apartment allotted to the books by the favour of Dr. Dimsdale are two portraits in oil, which formerly hung up in the schools, one of the aforementioned Thomas Leigh — black coat, straight hair and broad band — under which are the following verses : [Omitted.]

The other portrait is that of the above-named Dr. Tho. Tooke, in a large flowing wig, band, and modern clerical habit, without any inscription. VICINUS.

[1795, Part II., p. 1070.]

Bishop's Stortford School appears to have been founded about 20 Elizabeth, in whose reign most of these substitutes to that advantage arising from the religious houses for the education of youth were founded and endowed. Mr. Deane, of London, left the first £$ towards erecting it ; but the building was not erected till the com- mencement of the present century, by contributions of the gentlemen of Herts and Essex, at the request of the late master, Dr. Tooke ; though, as your correspondent informs us, a library was founded and finished above fifty years before by another master. This school- house stood in the High Street with the west front to the churchyard, consisting of three rooms, which, with the staircase, made a square building for a grammar school, and took up one-quarter of it, all the front to the street ; the other two were a library and writing-school.

Bishop's Stortford. 223

These stood upon arches, under which were the market and shops, the property of the parish; and the library was well furnished by the diligence of the masters. (Salmon, "Herts," p. 175.) Your cor- respondent can, perhaps, tell you how this useful institution fell into disuse since the decease of Dr. Tooke in 1720 or 1721, who, by his diligence and skill in teaching, had raised the school to great repute, and acquired a considerable fortune ;* .or of Mr. Hazeland, in 175 — , who gained one of the prizes at Cambridge — and where the duties of the school are now performed. But so it came to pass, that Mr. Adderley, late master of the Crown at Hokeril, got the building removed as a nuisance, for the making of the river Stort navigable. . . .

Trustees of charities in great towns, at a short distance from the metropolis, are rarely sufficiently permanent to be respectable or sufficiently attentive to the interests of the town. Thus the emolu- ment of its endowment falls into the hands of persons ill adapted to support them with credit to themselves or their employers ; the benefits intended to arise from them to the inhabitants are so unequal, that the great charge of education falls on any man who possesses the smallest ability or inclination to take it ; and the poor prefer paying the man of their choice to receiving the rudiments of learning free from him whom their betters force upon them.

VICINUS ALTER.

[1798, Part I., p. 493.]

"To the memory of THOMAS ADDERLEY, esq., who died April i, 1774, in the 67th year of his age, and his wife, in a vault in middle aile opposite this monu- ment, lie was equally zealous to serve his friends and promote the public utility : upon that principle he first suggested the idea of making the river Stort navigable up to this town, in which he had resided more than 45 years ; and was principally concerned in obtaining the laws necessary for that purpose. He lived to see the good effect of these services in respect to the publick ; and the proprietors of the navigation were so sensible of the benefit of his advice throughout the course of that arduous undenaking, that they were never wanting, as well before as since the completion of it, to pay him the respect due to his zeal, and to express their thankful acknowledgements."

Arms : A. on a bend g. 3 crosses pattee a. between 3 talbots' heads s.

Crest : a crane.

Thus is commemorated in the parish church of Bishop's Stortford a man who, while he showed himself a public benefactor in one instance, bears the whole reproach of having defeated the benevolent intentions of others, by destroying " the famous grammar school " of the same town ; so that not a trace or drawing of it remains to gratify any of its grateful alumni.

Brent Pelham.

[1852, Part /., //. 444.446.]

The sepulchral monument here represented, though in some respects peculiar, is perhaps less remarkable in itself than for the

* " History of Ben'et College, Cambridge," p. 190.

224 Hertfordshire.

legendary stories that have been built upon it, and for the attention it has received from several of our by-gone antiquaries. It was first noticed by Weever, in his "Funerall Monuments," in the following terms (edit. 1631, p. 549; edit. 1767, p. 316) :

" Burnt Pel ham.

" In the wall of this church lieth a most ancient monument : a s'one whereon is figured a man, and about him an Eagle, a Lion, and a Bull, having all win?s, and a fourth of the shape of an Angell, as if they should represent the four Evangelists : under the fe^t of the man is a crosse fleurie, and under the crosse a serpent. He is thought to have been some time the lord of an ancient decaied house, well moated, not farre from this place, called O Piers Shocnkes. He flourished Ann. a eonqnestu ricesimo primo."

The monument is not noticed by Sir Henry Chauncey, the first historian of the county ; but Mr. Nathaniel Salmon, in his " History of Hertfordshire," folio, 1728, for the sake of "a little amusement," entered into a longer discussion upon the subject than we can afford to extract entire. He says, " The figure is such as I should have expected for the founder of a church, fitted to lie in the niche of a wall, as many founders do." He suggests that it may have belonged to the more ancient church, which stood before the fire in Henry I.'s reign, which gave the parish its name of Brent Pelham ; adding that " the niche it lies in now is an old door-place." Yet he afterwards conjectures that the monument is no older than the son of a man who lived in the reign of Edward I. One Gilbert Sank occurs in the Exchequer Rolls as suffering a distress, made by his feudal lord, Simon de Furneaux, at Pelham Arsa in 16 Edward I., and that Gilbert, he suggests, might be the father of Piers ; and if, instead of "anno a conquestu 21 " we were to read 221, "it suits well enough with the distress to a year. And who knows but Peter might recover the right the very same year his father lost it?"

Who knows ? Such conjectures might be more "amusing" to Mr. Nathaniel Salmon than they could prove edifying to his readers, and his conjectural emendation was after all rather hastily made, as, though it was calculated to meet Weever's date, it could not so readily coincide with the direct assertion of the inscription, which stated that O Piers Shonkes "died anno 1086." Salmon appears, however, to have made a prouable guess at the author of that inscrip- tion. He says : "The writing is said to have been done by a vicar about 100 years ago, perhaps the long-lived Keen." This was Raphael Keen, who died in 1614, after having been Vicar of Brent Pelham for the very extraordinary peiiod of seventy-five years and six months — that is, from a period antecedent to the Reformation. That the re-erection of the monument was the act of this venerable parson is very probable indeed, for the tomb is of brickwork; the

Brent Pelham. 225

style of its construction and of the arch above is Elizabethan ; and so are the lines, both Latin and English. The whole is evidently of post-Reformation arrangement ; and where the gravestone lay before it was raised on the altar-tomb one may conjecture, but, as Mr. Salmon would have said — who can tell ?

Mr. Salmon " asks permission to finish this nisi prius argument with the relation given me by an old. farmer in the parish, who valued himself for having been born in the air that Shonk breathed. He saith, Shonk was a giant that dwelt in this parish, who fought with a giant of Barkway named Cadmus, and worsted him ; upon which Barkway hath paid a quit-rent to Pelham ever since. So that Horace's rule is at Pelham still observed :

"'Aut famam sequere, aut sibi convenientia finge.' "

So much for the pleasant fooling of Master Nathaniel Salmon. It has already been seen that there was a family resident at Pelham named Sank or Shonk, and it is evident that the fame of one of them, which lingered about his old moated manor-house, was con- nected by the villagers with this sculptured gravestone. " There stands," says Salmon, "a barn upon some ground moated in, called still by the name of Shonks Barn. Shonks pays castle-guard to the bishop at Stortford. There is another place called Shonks on the edge of Harlow in Essex."

The monument was noticed by Mr. Gough in his " Sepulchral Monuments," vol. i., p. 89 ; by Mr. Brayley in the " Beauties of England and Wales" (Hertfordshire, 8vo., 1808); in the "Anti- quarian Itinerary," September, 1816, with an engraving from a drawing by F. W. L. Stockdale (the inscription being that of Brayley repeated) ; and by Mr. Clutterbuck, in his "History of Hertfordshire," vol. iii., p. 451. Mr. G>>ugh contents himself with repeating the statements of former writers; Mr. Brayley terms the design a "symbolical representation of the triumph of Christianity ;" and Mr. Clutterbuck does little more than Mr. Gough, except that he adopts Salmon's suggestion that the stone " was removed from the chancel of the old church, which was burned down in the reign of King Henry I." He adds, hcwever, a note of the circumstance that one Peter Shonke occurs as a witness to a deed dated at Clavering in Essex in the 21 Edwar.l III.

Mr. Brayley gives another version of the legendary stories of the villagers, that "this symbolical representation of the triumph of Christianity was probably the origin of a traditional tale concerning the person buried here, and which represents him as having so offended the devil by killing a serpent, that his Highness threatened to secure him, whether buried within or without the walls of a church ; to avoid which, he was deposited in the wall itself." Mr. Brayley adds, that, "Whatever might have given rise to the tradition,

VOL. xvn. 15

226 Hertfordshire.

it would seem that O'Shonkes was a character much venerated, as the buttresses on the outside of the churches, which formed the place of his sepulture, are marked with crosses ;" but if such crosses are to be seen without the church, are they not those which have been left at the solemnity of consecration, which are sometimes still to be discovered in such positions?

After all, there is no great mystery in the design represented on the gravestone. The upper portion exhibits, as Weever says, the symbols of the four evangelists ; but the figure in the centre of them is not a man ; it is an angel bearing to heaven the soul of the deceased, which is represented in the ordinary mediaeval way as a small naked human being, with his hands in prayer, carried in a sheet. In the centre of the stone is a quatrefoil flower, which might be supposed to be nothing but mere ornament ; but if taken in connection with the other flower, which pierces the serpent's head (though they are not absolutely united), it may be regarded as a variety of the cross-dory, and so far (as Mr. Brayley described it) as a symbolical representation of the triumph of Christianity — a variety of the same symbol which was usually exhibited in the images of St. Michael, St. George, and St. Margaret. It is, in fact, a modification of a common form of Early-English foliage, here used to engraft the cross upon the dragon; and from the character of this portion of the design its date may be placed about A.D. 1200-25. See Mr. Boutcll's comprthens've work on "Christian Monuments," in which this monument at Brent Pelham receives a passing allusion at pp. 77, 104.

The drawings from which the present engravings have been taken were made by the late Thomas Fisher, Esq., F.S.A., whose services as a draughtsman to the ecclesiastical antiquities of Bedfordshire are well known.

Broxbourne.

[1808, Part /., //. 497, 498.]

Broxbourne Church is situate about a mile and a half from Hoddesdon, between the great road and the River Lea ; it contains three aisles, one of which was built by Sir William Siy; it is appropriated to the peculiar use of the Bishop of London, who is the pUron ot it ; but this parish is exempt from the jurisdiction of the Bishop and Archdeacon of the Diocese, and pays no procurations nor synodals.

The church has a square tower with a short spire upon it, erected at the west end ; and it has a good ring of five bells. The cemetery on the north side is bounded by the New River, which glides slowly along, seeming to leave with regret the source from which it flows.

The great attempt to join two streams in Middlesex and Hertford- shire for the supply of the Metropolis was first granted by an Act of

Broxbourne. 227

Parliament in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who allowed ten years for the performance ; but her death happening shortly alter put an end to the intended attempt. However, in the time of James I. Sir Hugh Middleton, a rich citizen of London, undertook to bring the river from Chadwell and Amwell, near Ware, to the north side of London, near Islington, where a large reservoir was built to receive it. The work was begun February 20, 1608, and completed in 1613; but Sir Hugh expended his whole fortune in the undertaking. The river in all its windings is thirty-eight miles three-quarters and sixteen poles long, and is under the direction of a corporation, called The New River Company.

The parish to which this church belongs was anciently called Brookesbourne, or Brochesborne, from the river, and is thus mentioned in Domesday Book :

In Hertford hundred. Adcliz, uxor Hugonis de Grentmaisnill, tenuit Brochesboume, pro quinq' hidis et dimid' se defendebat. Terra est sex car. in dominio tres hid' et tres virgat' et ibi est una car' ; ibi quatuor vill", cum presbytero, et uno socmano, et duobus bord' habentibus quinq' car1; ibi duo servi et unus molin' de octo sol' ; pratum sex sol', et quatuor sol' de fino pastura ad pecud', sylva cc pore'. In totis valent valet quatuor lib' quando recepit LX sol'. Tempore Regis Edwardi septeni lib'. Hoc manerium tenuit Stigan Archiepiscopus, et ibi fuit unus Socmanus homo et prepositus ejusdem Archiepisc', dim' hid' et vendere potuit. . . .

The village is situate about five miles and a half south of Ware, and the same distance from Hertford. . . .

As the town of Hoddesdon stands partly in this parish, it may not be amiss in this place to say a few words concerning it.

The hamlet of Hoddesdon stands upon a small eminence on the highroad, about a mile and a half to the north-west of Broxbourne, in which parish part of it stands, and the other part in Amwell. It is, however, a separate manor ; for in 6 Edward I. Stephen de Bassinburne claimed, by the grants of King John, free warren, gallows and waifr, and a park by ancient custom, without grant, in Hoddesdon, in the county of Hertford ; and also jurisdiction of Leet and Court Baron, all of which were allowed.

The manor of Base was formerlv distinct from that of Hoddesdon; and in the time of Edward IV. belonged to Sir William S.iy ; but since that period it has passed with the manor of Hoddesdon to the lords of the latter. . . .

Queen Elizabeth by charter granted a grammar-school to be kept in Hoddesdon, and incorporated it with some other privileges.

A chapel was once erected for the ease of the inhabitants in the middle of the town, which was situate in the parishes of Amwell and Broxbourne, and the inhabitants of both parishes residing in the town formerly kept it in repair ; but, through neglect, it became so

J5— 2

228 Hertfordshire.

ruinous that it was pulled down, and nothing remains but the clock- house, which is kept for the convenience of the inhabitants.

The lords of Broxbourne manor are entitled to Leet and Court Baron. J. H. WIFFEN.

[1809, Part II., p. 926.]

It may be remembered by some of your readers that a corre- spondent, under the signature of " A Modern," in his strictures on Mr. Wiffen's description of Hoddesdon, laments that Mr. Wiffen should have omitted to notice " the famous Thatched House, where Isaac Walton and his friend Sir H. Wotton used to regale them- selves, after having reaped some amusement at least from the water." This remark induced a gentleman, whose taste in collecting books, and whose friendly disposition is well known, to call my attention to it by the following letter :

Reading, Sept. 15, 1808.

"SiR, — Ever anxious for the success of your Walton, allow me to inform you that in the GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE for August, p. 679, there is an account of a Thatched House at Hoddesdon, famous as the place where Isaac Walton, and his friend Sir H. Wotton, used to regale themselves. Probably you may think it worth adding to the ornaments of your Book.

" If you engrave the Autograph of Walton's name,* I should have no objection to your mentioning its being in my possession, as probably it might biing me acquainted with more admirers of Walton.

" I am, Sir, your most obedient Servant.

" W. S. H.

" P.S. — I shall try my utmost to bring your Walton into favour with my friends."

I was induced, soon after this, to visit Hoddesdon, in company with the artist to whom the public are indebted for the views of Pike Pool and the Fishing House in the seventh edition of "The Complete Angler "; and, being desirous of giving to the public a view of this noted thatched house, I anxiously sought for information in the town, but failed in ascertaining the identical building ; some informa- tion, however, leading me to suppose, and the charming dialogue in Walton's work corroborating the idea, that a thatched house, once known by the sign of the Buffalo's Head, situated at the extreme end of Hoddesdon, on the road to Ware, and now occupied by a person of the name of Prior, was the very house, a view was taken of it. Now, if " A Modern,11 or any other of your correspondents, can

* Alluding to an autograph of " Iz. Wa." attached to a copy of the " Lives," which Mr. H. had obligingly lent me, but which was not used, on account of Mr. Hawkins's having additional words.

Broxbourne. 229

establish this information, I propose to have the view engraved, as an additional embellishment to the favourite work by the " Father of Angling."

SAMUEL BAGSTER.

[1810, Fart 1., p. 439.]

In your last volume, p. 926, I solicited information rejecting the house at Hoddesdon called by Walton "The Thatched House." I have been since favoured with the following communication : " I have had a peep at the Court Rolls, from the year 1714 to the present time; the Cottage is there described as a messuage or tenement, orchard, and appurtenances, called or known by the name of Whitelands. It is now a thatched cottage (heretofore called the Buffalo's Head), in the occupation of William Prior ; but it has never been described on the Court Rolls otherwise than as above. The Thatched House appears to me to have been accidentally so designated by its Town visitors ; and thence, for greater clearness and legal precision, it might have been introduced in subsequent writings, when possibly the place was better known by the new than by the old name. I judge this must have been the case, because

Mr. assured me that it was in the writings lately conveyed

called The Thatched House, or Cottage ; and as there is not a vestige of any other in the neighbourhood it is probable to have been the one in question."

But yet I conceive that I have not arrived at such entire satisfac- tion as the nature of the case admits ; and I sincerely hope that some well-informed brother of the angle, who resides on the spot, will take the trouble to ascertain the point more clearly, so that I may be able with propriety to present an engraving ot it to the public as the " Thatched House " spoken of in Walton's " Complete Angler."

SAMUEL BAGSTER.

Cheshunt.

[1790, Part II., pp. 618, 619 ]

If the enclosed Epitaphs, collected from Chesh'int Churchyard by a Traveller while his dinner was dressing, will entertain your readers, or correct your obituary, they are at your service.

"In memory of Mr. EDMUND SOUTH,* who departed this life January II, 1784, aged 66 years."

[Inscription omitted.]

"Also Mr. EDMUND SOUTH, son of the above, who departed this life January 21, 1779, aged 27 years."

* An eminent dancing-master.

230 Hi rtfordsh ire.

On an altar-tomb :

" In memory of GEORGE BARNE, Esq., who departed this life March 14, 1780, age 67."

[Inscription omitted.]

"In memory of JAMES CRAIG, Esq., who departed this life the 2Oth of April, 1789, aged 64 years."

" In memory of Mrs. MARY STOW, widow, who died izth March, 1788, aged 82 years."

On a head-stone :

"Sacred to the memory of the Rev. THOMAS GRIFFIN, B.D., who died March 24, 1788, aged 32."

" ELEANOR LANG, died June 13, 1785, aged 13 years. WILLIAM, her brother, died I3th January, 1786, aged 2 years. MARY, their sister, died 31 January, 1788, aged 13."

[Inscription omitted.]

On an altar-tomb supporting a pyramid, with urns at the four corners, and on it a chevron between three owls, impaling, paly of six on a bend three estoiles :

" Here lyeth the body of MARY PRESCOTT, daughter of GEORGE PRESCOTT, Esq., and MARY, his wile, of '1 heobalds Park, in this parish, who departed this life the 2d of November, 1775, in ihe 2oth year of her age."

On an altar-tomb :

" Beneath are deposited the remains of ELIZABETH, daughter of JOHN FIELD, citizen and apothecary of London, who died December 9, 1781, aged 23 years."

Arms, a chevron engrailed between three gerbes, impaling a lion rampant.

" Here lieth the body of SARAH ETHERIXGHAM, widow, who died March 3, 1/86, in the "5th year of her age."

[Inscription omitted.]

"To the memory of PHEBE WALLIS, who departed this life Dec. 18, 1778, aged 2 years and 2 months."

[Inscription omitted.]

" In memory of Mr. JOHN MORRICE, who died February 13, 1788, aged 49 years."

" In memory of Mr. JOHN COOKE, cooper and citizen of London. He died 3 March, 1785, aged 75 years."

"Here are to lie the remains of THOMAS and REBECCA PALMER, who en- deavoured so to live as to obtain a happy resurrection. He died the 3ist day of August, 1789, age 83 years. She died the 1 8th day ot May, 1782, aged 76 years."

"Within this church lies the body of Mrs. SARAH PALMER, their only daughter. . . . She died in April, 1766, in the 34th year of her age. Be ready, the present time is only yours."

" Here lieih the remains of Mr. JOHN BUSH, of Oxford, who died 27 November, 1783, aged 42."

[Inscription omitted.]

On the base of a pyramid, on which is a saltire engrailed, charged

Cheshunt.

with a shield of pretence, in an orfe of cinqfoils; crest, a muzzled bear, and by the lower side of this coat the escutcheon of pretence single, and the saltire engrailed, impaling a pelican vulning herself. On the east side :

" In a vault umler this monument is deposited a!l that is mortal of JOHN ASH- FORDBV, Esq., late of this parish, who died February 25, 1747, aged 70 years. As an instance of I lie regard and esteem he bears to ihe memory of the best oi fathers, JOHN ASHFORDBY, his son, erected this monument."

On tne north side :

"Also here lies deposited all that is mortal of Mrs FRANCES ASHFORUIIY, relict of JOHN ASUFOKDUY, Esq., who died 10 April, 1774, aged 86 yeirs."

On the west side :

"Also near this place is interred MARY ASHFORDBY, first wife of the said JOHN ASHFORDKY, who died 17 April, 1717, aged 39 years. Also two childien by bic last wife, FRANCES ASHFORUUY, who both died in their infancy. "

On the south side :

"In memory of the late JOHN ASHKORDBY, Esq. ... He departed this life Sept. 30, 1778, aged 52 years."

"JOHN CARTIEK, Esq., died January 25, 17/4, aged 89 years. MARY, his wife, died June 21, 1782, aged 86 years."

"In this vault aie interred the body of Mrs. MARY CHOI. MI. EV,* who died 30 July, 1764, aged 76 years. Also her daughter MARY, tne wife of WILLIAM TATNALL, of Theobalds, who died 17 March, 1771, aged 68 years. Likewis-e WILLIAM TATNALL, the husband of the said MARY, who died Nov. 21, 1785, aged 75 years."

" Here rests al! that was mortal of the late reverend, learned, and pious JOHN MASON, M.A. ,t who was minister of the congregation of 1'roiestant Di^eiuers in this pari>h 17 years. He ceased from his labour*, and wa-. called to receive his reward, February the loih, 1763, aged 58 years. . . . Ana MAKV, his wife, died the 8th of May, 1771 ; aged 72.

On wood :

"WILLIAM WILLIAMS, died Sept. 24, 1782, aged 21 years." [Inscription omitted. J

"URSULA, daughter of RICHARD and URSULA BRETT, died June 30, 1777,

aged 12 years. ANN, her sister, died June 3. 1780, aged 3 years and 7 week

KlCHAKD (their father) died July 5, 1/83, aged 49 years."

[Inscription omitted.]

"SARAH JONES, wife of THOMAS JONKS, of Enfield, Middlesex, gent., nnd daughur of Air. I'HINEAS PATISHULL, who died 21 June, 1785, aged 34. SI.e lived beloved, and died lamented."

"JosEPH PATISHUI, of Leominster, Herefordshire, died M..y 3, 1764, aged 76. PHINEHAS I'ATISHUL, his son, of Fenchurch street, London, died 31 December, 1771, aged 56 years."

"Mrs. SARAH LINDOK, wife of Mr. DAVID LINDOE, died January 31, 1789, aged 23 years."

* She was aunt to the late John llowaid, Eoq.

t Author of "Self Knowledge," "The I .urn's Day Evening Kirertaiwmen!,'1 a set of practical sermons, in MX or eight volumes, and other excell. nt wvik».

Hertfordshire.

Against the north wall of the church :

"In memory of Mrs. KATHARINE YOUNG, who departed this life January 13, 1743. aged 54 years. . . . Also the body of JOSHUA YOUNG, M.D., who departed this life the 3d of August, 1753, in the 64ih year of his age. Also the body of Mrs. ANNE YOUNG, who departed this life the 3Oth of Sept., 1755, aged 55 years."

[1836, Part I., pp. 147 154.]

The magnificent Palace of Theobalds, the favourite suburban retreat of the two first monarchs of the family of Stuart, stood in the parish of Cheshunt, at the distance of twelve miles from London, and a little to the north of the road to Ware. The origin of the name does not appear, and it has not occurred in the researches of the topographer at an earlier date than the year 1441, when the manor of Thebaudes was granted out by the Crown to the hospital of St. Anthony in London. Other manors in Cheshunt, some of which were afterwards united to it, were called after their owners, from whose successive surnames they derived a variety of aliases, as may be seen in the pages of Lysons and Clutterbuck ; and it is therefore probable that Theobald was the name of an owner, but at what period earlier than the reign of Henry VI. does not now appear.

The manor probably reverted to the Crown at the suppression of religious foundations, and the late historian of Hertfordshire* has detailed its subsequent passage through the names of Bedyl, Burbage, and Ellyott, until, on June 10, 1563, it was purchased by Sir William Cecil, afterwards the great Lord Burghley.

The original manor-house is supposed to have been on a small moated site, the traces of which are still visible in Sir George Prescott's park.f In 1570 Sir William Cecil increased the estate} by an important addition, which is thus mentioned in his Diary: "May 15. I purchased Chesthunt Park of Mr. Harryngton." He now, if not before, must have been proceeding in earnest with his new mansion, as in September of the following year his Royal Mistress honoured it with a visit (which will be more particularly noticed hereafter), and she was presented with a "portrait of the house."

Lord Burghley was not the least sumptuous in architecture among

* Clutterbuck's " Herts," vol. ii., p. 87.

t Lysons's " Environs of London," vol. iv., p. 71.

t Lord Burghley's Hertfordshire estates, enumerated in his inquisition post- mortem, are as follow : Man<v of Theobalds, alias Tong-i ; manors and lordships of Clayes, Darcyes, Cresbroke", Clarks, Corlings alias Collings, Perriers, and Beaumont Hall ; Cheshunt Parke, or Brantingeshey ; the manors and farms of Baa's, Hodesdon Bury, and Goldings ; the manor, capital messuage, and farm called Barnetts, in Brokesborne, Hodiiesdon, and Amwel; the Black Lion Inn, in Hoddesdon ; Curste Marshes, near Hoddesdon ; and ihe site of the dissolved priory, called Lady Sweetman s Croft, or Cheshunt Nunnery. The annual value of the whole was only £25. — Peck's "Desiderata Curiosa," pp. 190, 197.

Cheshunt. 233

a nobility which produced so many magnificent palaces. The author of his contemporary biography (printed in Peck's "Desiderata Curiosa ") says : " He buylt three houses : one in London for necessity ; another at Burghley, of computency for the mansion of his Barony ; and another at Waltham [this of Theobalds], for his younger sonne; which, at the first, he meant but for a little pile, as I have hard him saie, but, after he came to enterteyne the Quene so often there, he was inforced to enlarge it, rather for the Quene and her greate traine, and to sett poore on worke, than for pompe or glory ; for he ever said it wold be to big for the small living he cold leave his sonne. The other two are but convenient, and no bigger than will serve for a nobleman : all of them perfected, convenient, and to better purpose for habitation than manie others buylt by great noblemen ; being all bewtiful, uniform, necessary, and well seated ; which are greate arguments of his wisdome and judg- ment. He greatlie delighted in making gardens, fountaines, and walks ; which at Theobalds were perfected most costly, bewtyfully, and pleasantly ; while one might walk twoe myle in the walks before he came to their ends." . . .

That the Lord Treasurer's expenditure in building was very large was sufficiently notorious; and the Queen herself is said to have condescended to rally him upon the subject, remarking " that his head and her purse could do anything." This witticism was of course uttered after his preferment to the post of Treasurer.*

As Lord Burghley had built this mansion expressly for his younger son, he was evidently inclined, some years before his death, to give up the possession to Sir Robert ; but some opposition was made to this proposal by the Queen, as appears from some humorous sallies both on the part of her Majesty and of her " Hermit," as the secretary was pleased to style himself (the further notice of which must be deferred), and it is clear that the longer purse of the Lord

* At her Majesty's visit to Theobalds, in 1583, as stated in the "Progresses of Queen Elizabeth," vol. ii., p. 404. Mr. Peck (" Desiderata," p. 233), in his account of Burghley House (by Stamford), after describing the view in the inner court as "surprisingly entertaining," adds, "And here perhaps it was that Queen Elizabeth, when she first came to see the house, told the Lord Burghley that his head and her purse could do anything. The upper seat on the left-hand side of the chapel is still called Queen Elizabeth's seat, as being the place where she always sat to hear service when she came to Burghley." But, as will be shown hereafter, these Elizabethan royal visits were by no means such every-day occurrences ; and the Queen, though once entertained by Sir William Cecil at Stamford, certainly never was at Burghley. The original authority for the anecdote does not appear ; but another of the Queen's gracious pleasantries towards her favourite minister is thus related in Fuller's "Worthies of England": "Coming once to visit him, being sick of the goute at Burltry house, in the Strand, and being much heightened with her head attire (then in fashion), the Lord's servant who conducted her thorow the door, 'May your Highness,' said he, 'be pleased to stoop.' The Queen returned, ' For your Master's sake, I will stoop ; but not for the King of Spain's.' "

234 Hertfordshire.

Treasurer was requisite to maintain the house and the establishment, which had both been increased for her Majesty's pleasure. . . .

On the decease of Lord Burghley, August 4, 1598, his son, Sir Robert Cecil, became the possessor of Theobalds and the neigh- bouring estates, pursuant to indenture dated June 16, 29 Eliz.

(1577).*

The Earl of Salisbury (as he shortly became after the accession of King James), having captivated his royal master with ihe charms of Theobalds, particularly in two sumptuous entertainments given to his Majesty, on his first arrival in England, and on the visit of his brother in-law the King of Denmark, was very shortly after the latter festivity induced to exchange it for the palace of Hatfield ; where (being now himself Lord Treasurer, and thus in possession, like his father, of the strings of the royal purse !) he commenced building a mansion of perhaps still greater magnificence, and which has stood unaltered (except by the recent partial fire) to our own days. By deed, dated May 14, 5 Jac. I., he conveyed to James, Earl of Dorset, High Treasurer, and others, Commissioners, " the manor of Theo- balds, alias Tongs," etc., and other manors, with "all that capital messuage and appurtenances called by the name of Theobalds House, with all banqueting and other buildings, gardens, and orchards thereunto belonging ; also, all those two parks or inclosed grounds known by the name of Theobalds Park, and the other by the name of Cheshunt Park, otherwise Brantingshall Park," etc., to hold to them, their heirs, and assigns for ever, upon trust, that they, before the ensuing Michaelmas, should convey them to the King, his heirs and successors for ever.

The exchange was ratified by an Act of Parliament, the preamble of which is as follows :

" Whereas the Mansion-house of Theobalds, in the county of Hertford, being the inheritance of Robert Earl of Salisbury, as well for situation in a good and open aire, and for the large and good lie buildings, and delight of the gardens, walkes, and park replenished with redd fallowe deere, as alsoe for the neereness to the cittie of London northward, and to his Majesties Forest of Waltham Chase and Parke of Enfield, with the comoditie of a navigable river falling into the Thames, is a place soe convenient for his Majesties princely sportes and recreation, and so commodious for the residence of his Highnes Court and entertaynment of forrayne Princes or their ambassadors, upon all occasions, as his Majesty hath taken great likinge thereunto ; of which the said Earle having taken particular knowledge, although it be the only dwelling-house left unto him by his father, most willinglie, and dutifullie, made offer thereof unto his Highnes, with any such other his manors and lands thereabouts as should be thought fit for his Majesty's use, preferring therein his * Lord Burleigh's will, in Peck's " Desiderata," p. 192.

Cheshunt. 235

Majesty's health and contentation before any private respecte of his owne ; which offer his Majesty hath gratiously forborne to accepte, without a full and princely recompence to the said Earl,1' etc.

The Earl of Salisbury gave up possession on May 22, 1607, with a poetical entertainment written by Ben Jonson. In this " the Queen " was supposed to receive the palace, perhaps with the view of its becoming her dowager-house had she survived King James. How- ever, Theobalds became his principal country residence throughout the whole of his reign, and it was here he breathed his last on March 27, 1625. Windsor was at that period never visited, except to hold the feasts of the Order of the Garter ; Richmond, which had been a favourite palace of Elizabeth, was given up to the Prince of Wales ; Hampton Court was occasionally resorted to, but the attractions of Waltham Forest gave Theobalds by far the preference in the eyes of the silvan monarch.

After taking possession, King James enlarged the park by enclosing part of the adjoining chase, and surrounded it with a wall of brick measuring 10 miles in circumference ; part of which on the north, containing the eighth milestone, remains in the gardens of Albury House.

King Charles I. continued to reside here ; and there is an interest- ing picture, representing an interior view of the gallery in perspective, into which the King and Henrietta Maria are entering at a door, ushered by the brother Earls of Pembroke and Montgomery, each with his wand of office, the former as Lord Steward, and the latter as Lord Chamberlain, of the King's household. Waiting in the gallery stands the dwarf Jeffery Hudson, with three of King Charles's favourite spaniels, and a parroquet is perched on a balustrade. . . .*

When the sale of Crown lands was in agitation in 1649, it was at first resolved that Theobalds should be excepted,t but it was after- wards determined that it should be sold. In the following year the surveyors reported that the palace was an excellent building, in very good repair, by no means fit to be demolished, and that it was worth ^200 per annum, exclusive of the park ; yet, lest the Parliament should think proper to have it taken down, they had estimated the materials, and found them to be worth ^8,275 us. The calculations of the surveyors were more acceptable than their advice, and conse- quently the greater part of the palace was taken down to the ground, and the money arising from the sale of the materials was divided among the army.

The Survey affords a circumstantial description of the several

* This curious picture is at Hinton St. George, the seat of Earl Foulett, in Somersetshire.

t Whiilocke's " Memorials," p. 411. This was in the month of June. The subject was again debated July 12 ; and in the Act which soon after passed Theo- balds does not occur among the houses to be reserved from sale.— " Perfect Summary," July 23-30, 1649.

236 Hertfordshire.

portions and apartments of the palace.* It consisted of two principal quadrangles, besides the Dial Court, the Buttery Court, and the Dovehouse Court, in which the offices were situated. The Fountain Court, so called from a fountain of black and white marble in the centre, was a quadrangle of 86 feet square, on the east side of which was a cloister 8 feet wide, with seven arches. On the ground-floor of this quadrangle was a spacious hall, paved with Purbeck marble ; roof " arched over the top with carved timbers of curious workman- ship and of great worth, being a goodlie ornament to the same ;" at the upper end was " a very large picture of the bignesse of a paire of stagges horns scene in France." On the same floor were the Lord of Holland's, the Marquis of Hamilton's, and the chamber for the King's waiters.

On the second-floor was the presence-chamber, " wainscotted with carved wainscot of good oak, painted of a liver colour, and richly gilded with antick pictures over the same ; the seelinge full of gilded pendants hanging downe, setting forth the roome with great splendor ; as alsoe with verie large windowes, and several coates of armes sett in the same." These windows opened south on the walk in the Great Garden leading to the green gates going into the park, where was an avenue of a mile long between a double row of trees. On the same floor were also the Privy Chamber, the Withdrawing Chamber, the King's Bedchamber, and a gallery 123 feet by 21, " wainscotted with oak, and paintinges over the same of divers cities, rarely painted, and sett forth with a frett seelinge, with divers pendents, roses, and flower-de-luces, painted and gilded with gold ; alsoe divers large stagges heades sett round the same, and fastened to the sayd roome, which are an excellent ornament to the same." The windows of this gallery looked " north into the park, and so to Cheshunt."

On an upper-floor were the Lord Chamberlain's lodgings, my lord's withdrawing chamber, and several other apartments. Near the Chamberlain's lodgings on the east was a leaded walk, 62 feet in length and 1 1 in breadth, with an arch of freestone over it ; " which said arch and walk," says the Survey, " looking eastward into the middle court, and into the highway leading from London to Ware, stand eth high, and may easily be discerned by passengers and travellers to their delight." On the west of the Lord Chamberlain's lodgings was another walk of the same dimensions looking westward into the Fountain Court. At each corner of these walks stood " fower high, faire, and large towers covered with blue slate, with a lyon and vanes on the top of each ; and in the walk over the hall, in the midst of the fower corners, one faire and large turrett, in the fashion of a lanthorne, made with timber of excellent workmanship curiouslie wrought, standing a great height, with divers pinnacles at

* The abstract above given was made by Mr. Lysons in his " Environs," from the original in the Augmentation Office.

Chcshunt. 237

each corner, wherein hangeth twelve bells for chiminge, and a clock with chimes of sundrie worke."

The walk from the lower gate up to the middle of the Fountain Court is described as leading " through the several courtes, so that the figure of Cupid and Venus maye easily be seene from the high- way when the gates are open." "This walk, "says the Survey, "is so delightfull and pleasant, facing the middle of the house, and the severall towers, turretts, windowes, chimneyes, walkes, and balconies, that the like walke for length, pit- asantness, and delight is rare to be seen in England." The middle court was a quadrangle of no feet square ; on the south of which were the Queen's Chapel (with windows of stained glass), her Presence Chamber, Privy Chamber, Bedchamber, and Coffee Chamber. The Prince's lodgings were ou the north side. On the east side was a cloister, over which was the Green Gallery, 109 feet by 12, "excellently well painted round with the several shires in England, and the arms of the noblemen and gentlemen in the same." Over this gallery was a leaded walk (looking eastward towards the Dial Court and the highway), on which were "two loftie arches of bricke, of no small ornament to the house, and rendering it comlie and pleasant to all that passed by." On the west side of the quadrangle was another cloister (on five arches), over which were the Duke's lodgings, and over them the Queen's Gallery, 109 fcet by 14. On the south side of the house stood "a large open cloister, built upon severall large faire pillars of stone, arched over with seven arches, with a faire rayle and balisters, well painted with the Kinges and Queenes of England, and the pedigree of the old Lord Burghley, and divers other antient families, with paintings of many castles and battailes, with divers subscriptions on the walls."

The park contained 2,508 acres, valued, together with six lodges, one of which was in the occupation of Colonel Cecil, at .£1,545 155. 4d. per annum. The deer were valued at £1,000; the rabbits at .£15 ; the timber at .£7,259 138. 2d., exclusive of 15,608 trees marked for the use of the navy, and others already cut down for that purpose ; the materials of the barns and walls were valued at ,£1,570 i6s. 3d.

After the Restoration, the manor of Theobalds was granted, in 13 Car. II., to George Duke of Aluemarle, and its subsequent descent to the late Oliver Cromwell, Esq., is detailed by Mr. Clutterbuck. The park and ruins remained in the Crown until granted, in i and 2 William and Mary, to William. Duke of Portland, to whose heirs they descended, until sold in 1763 to George Prescott, Esq., the grand- father of the present Sir George Beeston Prescott, of Cheshunt Park.

The last stages of the decay of Theobalds were recorded by Mr. Gough, first in his " Catalogue of British Topography," and after- wards in his " Additions to Camden's Britannia." The room said to have been that in which King James I. died, and the parlour under

238 Hertfordshire.

it, with a cloister or portico having the Cecil pedigree painted on the walls,* were standing until 1765, when George Prescott, Esq., cleared out the site for building. " It is now (adds Mr. Gough) covered with gentlemen's houses ; and the only remains of its ancient grandeur are a walk of abeles between two walls, a circular summerhouse, and the traces of the park wall, nine or ten miles round, built by James I." Mr. Gough purchased so much of the chimney-piece of the parlour as had survived the demolition. It is two-thirds of a group of figures in alto relievo representing in the centre Minerva driving away Discord, overthrowing Idolatry, and restoring true Religion. The architecture is ornamented with garbs, or wheat sheaves, from the Cecil crest. It is carved in clunch, or soft stone, probably by Florentine artists. Mr. Gough placed it over the chimney piece of his library at Fortyhill, Enfield, where it remained until 1834, and was then presented by his representative, John Farran, Esq., to J. B. Nichols, Esq., F.S.A., who removed it to his house, the Chancellor's, Hammersmith.

The stables of Theobalds stood on the opposite side of the road leading from Waltham Cross to Cheshunt ; and adjoining to them was a large building called the almshouse. Mr. Clutterbuck does not notice it. It is mentioned in the " Life of the Earl of Salisbury," printed on his death in 1612, that it was occupied by " aged and over-worne Captaines, gentlemen by birth and calling." This build- ing, which had the arms of Cecil in front, and was furnished with a hall and chapel, was standing till about the year 1812.

These descriptive particulars of Theobalds Palace having extended to so great a length, some collections of its historical annals, its festivities under the two great statesmen and the two English Kings who were its successive owners, and some other events connected with it, must be deferred to another paper. J. G. N.

[1836, Part II., pp. 260-264.]

From the propinquity of TheobaMs to London, and our present ideas of rapid locomotion, it might be supposed that Queen Elizabeth would have visited her favourite Minister there with great facility, and perhaps several times in the course of every year. Such, how- ever, was not the fact. Like her royal predecessors, she is known to hiive been continually in progress to the several mansions of her nobility, whilst in the splendour and expense of the entertainments which she exacted from her hosts she surpassed every former sovereign. But she did not move without an enormous train, which, like an army of locusts, devoured "all the provision of bread," and meat, and everything else; and not only made a

* Mr. Gough made some sketches of (he remaining portions of the Cecil pedigrees, which were engraved in the first edition of "Queen Elizabeth's Pro- gresses," vol. ii. (sub anno 1584), and are printed in the new edition, 1823, vol. iii., pp. 242, 243.

Cheshunt. 239

constant transit indispensable, but did not leave the country behind it in a state to receive a second visit until after a due respite and the return of another fruitful season. In some degree this would apply to situations t-ven so near the metropolis as Theobalds ; at any rate, the royal tours had their settled course, and the turn for Theobalds does not appear to have generally recurred more frequently than once a year.

At the same time, in comparison with other places, Theobalds was considered to enjoy a large share of the royal presence; and the manner in which Lord Burghley's contemporary biographer speaks of the matter is as follows :

" His Lord>hip's extraordinary chardg in enterteynment of the Qiiene, was greater to him then to anie of her subjects ; for he enterteyned her at his house twelve severall times ; which cost him two or three thousand pounds* every tyme ; [the Queen] lyeing there, at his Lordship's chardg, som^tymes three weeks a moneth, yea six weeks together. But his love to his Soverei^ne, and joye to enterteyn her and her traine, was so greate, as he thought no tn>b!e, care, nor cost too much, and all too little, so it weare bounti- f.illy performed to her Majesties recreation, and the contentment of her traine. Her Majesty s jmetymes had straungers and Ambassadors came to her at Theobalds ; where she hath byn sene in as great royalty, and served as bountifully and magnificently as at anie other tyme or place, all at his Lordship's chardg; with rich shews, pleasant devices, and all manner of sports [that] cold be devised; to the greate delight of her Majestie, and her whole traine, with greate thanks from [them], and as greate comendation from all abroad."

Thus we see that, though in point of expense Lord Burghley's hospitality was exceeded by none, >et the number of visits is still limited, and, in fact, they were well known to have been altogether twelve.

With some research, I have been able to trace out most of them.

i. The firstt is thus mentioned by Lord Burghley in his Diary :

"1571. Sept. 22. The Queen's Majestie came to Thebalds wher these verses following were presented to hir Majestie, with a portrait of the House. "

This evidently shows that her Majesty came on this occasion to see the new house, or what was then erected of it. Neither portrait nor verses are known to be now in existence ; but, should a copy of either be preserved among the papers of the Marqursses of Salisbury or Exrter, it is to be hoped that they and all similar curiosities will, as early as possible, be removed from the power which Ben Jonson

* The Lord Treasurer's ordinary household expenses at Theobalds were .£80 a week.

t It was before shown in February, p. 148, th.it the supposed visit of the Queen in 1564 was a mistake.

240 Hertfordshire.

personifies as "Master Vulcan," by means of the multiplication of copies, lest in the next fire at Hatfield or Burghley they should be lost for ever.

It was expected that the Queen during this visit would be present at the marriage of his lordship's elder daughter with the Earl of Oxford.* This alliance proved unfortunate ; for the earl illtreated his wife, it is said, to revenge upon Burghley the ruin of the Duke of Norfolk.

2. Of the second visit we have only this brief notice from Lord Burghley's Diary :

"1572. July 22. The Queen's Majesty was at Theobalds."

This was only one week after Burghley had been made Lord

Treasurer. Mr. Nichols has stated, but without mentioning any

authority, that this visit lasted three days ;t but there can be little

doubt that, if that had been the case, his lordship would have said so.

3. The third visit is thus recorded in the Diary :

" 1575. May 24. The Q. Majesty was at Thebolds, and so she was afore in July 22, 1572."

4. The fourth in

"1577. May 14. The Q. Majesty was at Thebolds, and so she was in May, 1575, and in July, 1572."

In 1578 the Queen was expected to go to Theobalds, and to "tarry" three or four days;J but we may conclude from Lord Burghley's Diary that her Majesty's fifth visit was in 1583, when his lordship again recapitulates the former visits.

5. The fifth :

" 1583. May. The Queens Majesty at Thebalds the 27, 28, 29, 30 Maij.

"Nota. In the 24ch May, 1575, she was also at Thebals; I4th May, 1577 ; and in July, 1572."

A list of the several lodgings the mansion contained, and the manner in wh;ch they were assigned on this occasion to the several attendants of the Court, is printed in "Queen Elizabeth's Pro- gresses," vol. ii., pp. 400-404.

6. In Lord Burghley's Diary :

" 1587. June. The Queen's Majesty was at Thebalds."

7. The next visit was a more memorable one — at least, much more has been preserved about it Lord Burghley says :

" 1591. May 10. The Queen came to Thebalds from Hackney." On the day of her arrival, by the hand of Sir Christopher Hatton,

* Hugh Fitzwilliam to the Countess of Shrewsbury : "The! say the Quene wil be at my Lorde of Burlyes howse Walton on Sunday nexte " (the letter is dated, however, September 21, the very day of her Majesty's visit) ; " wheare my Lorde of Oxford shall marry Mrs. Anne Sicelle, his daughter." — Hunter's " Hallam- shire," p. 83.

t " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth," vol. i., p. 309.

$ Letter of Gilbert Talbot.— " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth," vol. ii., p. 93.

Clieshunt. 241

Chancellor of England, she addressed a mock heroic epistle " to the disconsolate and retired spryte, the Heremite of Tybole." This was Mr. Robert Cecil, Lord Burghley's younger and highly-talented son. It was mentioned in the former article that Theobalds was settled upon that distinguished personage by indenture dated June 16, 1577; and it appears from this burlesque epistle that about March, 1588-89, he had taken actual possession, whilst Lord Burghley himself had retired to his former smaller house, which Mr. Robert had for ten years occupied. Of this arrangement it is clear the Queen did not approve, and she seems to have commissioned Sir Christopher Hatton, in a playful way, to make her wishes known. Sir Chris- topher, with right good-will, began his epistle in the following style :

" ELIZABETHA Anglorum, id esf, a nitore Angelorum Regina formo- sissima et felicissima : To the disconsolate and retired spryte, the Heremite of Tybole, and to al oother disaffected sowles, claiming by, from, or under the said Heremit, sendeth greeting : Whereas in our High Coourt of Chanceri it is given us to understand, that you Sir Heremite, the abandonate of Nature's fair works, and servaunt to Heaven's woonders, have, for the space of two years and two moonthes, possessed yoorself of fair Tybollet, with her sweet rosary the same tyme, the recreation of our right trusty and right well beloved Sir William Sitsilt, Knt., leaving to him the old rude repoze, wherein twice five years (at his cost) yoor contemplate life was releived ; which place and fate inevitable hath brought greefs innumerable (for lover greef biddeth no compare) suffering yoor solitary eye to bring into hiz house desolation and moorning, joyes destroyers, and annoye frendes, whereby Paradice is grown Wilder- ness, and for green grass are comen gray hearz," etc.

After further preamble in the same strain,* the Queen commanded the Hermit to return to his " old cave, too good for the forsaken, too bad for our worthily belooved Coouncillour " ; all which was wholly incomprehensible to poor old Strype, who thought " it would be a very difficult, perhaps an impracticable task, should one endeavour to write a commentary capable of explaining this singular piece"; nor, I believe, has anyone yet remarked what that other mansion was which had the honour of being the more sequestered retreat of the great Cecil and his son. There can, however, be no question that it was a house in the parish of Edmonton, which Norden, in his Survey of Middlesex, briefly describes as " Pymmes, a proper little house of the right honourable Lord Burghley, Lord High Treasurer of England. "t

* See the whole in Strype's " Annals," vol. iv., p. 77, and the " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth," vol. ii., p. 75.

t Dr. Robinson, in his " History of Edmonton," p. 60, says : " This house was situated on the north side of Watery Lane ; it is now entirely demolished. Jt took its name from William I'ymme, who built it ; the family were settled in Edmonton in the reign of Edward II. It is mentioned in (he Inquisition on the

VOL. XVII. 1 6

242 Hertfordshire.

The Queen prolonged her stay at Theobalds at this time for ten days. On the i6th of the month she "dyned abrode," — that is, out of her Privy-chamber, " in the chamber called the Queen's Arbor, in company with the French Ambassador and L."* On her majesty's departure, on the 2oth, she bestowed the honour of knighthood on Sir Robert Cecil. t " I suppose you have heard," says Sir T. Wylkes in a letter to Sir R. Sydney, on the i8th of June, "of her Majesty's great entertainment at Tibbuls ; of her knighting Sir Robert Cecill, and of the expectation of his advance to the Secretaryship. But so it is (as we said in Court) that the knighthood must serve for both."

8. The next visit was in

" 1593. June 13. The Queen came to Thebolds, and continued there to the zist thereof."

And then it must have been that Sir Robert Cecil, pursuing her Majesty's former jest of the Hermit, " penned " " the Hermit's Oration at Theobalds," which is printed in " Queen Elizabeth's Progresses," vol. Hi. pp. 241-245.

" I am the poor Hermit," he said, " your Majesties Beadman, who, at your last coming hither (where God grant you may com many years), upon my complaynt, by your pryncely favor was restored to my HERMITAGE, by an injunction, when my Founder, uppon a strange conceite, to feed his owne humour, had placed me, contrary to my profession, in his HOUSE, amongst a number of worldlings, and retired himself e in my poore cell, where I have ever since, by your only goodness (most peerelesse and powerful Queen), lived in all happiness, spending three parts of the day in repentance, the fourth in praying for your Majestie, that as your virtues have been the world's wonder, so your dayes may see the world's end. . . .

" And now a little further to acquaint your Majestie with my happ (though I must arme myself with patience), my Founder, to leave all free for you and your trayne, hath committed to my NESTJ all his unfledged birds, being the comfort of his age, and his pretious Jewells, being to some of them Grandfather, to others more, all derived from his good opinion of me. But such a wanton charge for a poor old

Jeath of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, 1612 ; as in that of Lord Burghley" (see Peck's "Desiderata Curiosa," p. 189). "On the I2ih July, 1594, says Lord Burghley in his " Diary," " the Queen came to Robert CecilFs house to speak with me." This was probably Pymmes.

* Lord Burghley's Diary. Some commentator has added a note, " Qu. who is L. ? — Probably Lord Treasurer Burghley " ; but it is much more probable hat the meaning was, the Ambassador Extraordinary and the Leiger, or Resident Ambassador.

t " May 20. Robert Cecill made Knight at the Queen Majesties removing." — Lord Burghley's Diary.

J I.e., to Pymmes, where, it may be presumed, one of Lord Burghley's grand- children died, being interred in the parish church of Edmonton, and thus re- corded in the register : " Frances Vcre, til. Comitis Oxfordiae, sepult. September 12, 1587."

Cheshunt. 243

man, as they now hear of the arryvall of such an admirable Worke of Nature, a man must pluck their quilles, or els they will daylie fly out to see your Majestic, such is the working of the Grandfather's affection in them, and your vertue and beautie !"

Here the entries of Lord Burghley's Diary fail us ; but it may be readily imagined that during the five subsequent years of the Lord Treasurer's life the Queen made the four other visits which complete the number of twelve.

9. The occasion mentioned in the memoirs of Sir Robert Carey (afterwards of Monmouth) when he found the Queen at Theobalds, and followed her to Enfield, must have been in the year 1597, as it was about a year after his father's death, and when his brother had been appointed Chamberlain in the place of Lord Cobham, who died in March 1596-97. "The Queene lay at Theobalds ; went that day to Enfield House ; and had toiles set up in the parke to shoot at buckes after dinner."

10. On September 7, 1597, the Queen was again at Theobalds, and there gave audience to the Danish Ambassador. It was her birthday, and the Ambassador " tooke thereby occasion to say, That sithen it had pleased God on that day to glorifie the worlde with so gratious a Creature, who had brought so great happiness to the Realme, and the neighbour Kingdomes, hee doubted not but that the Kinge his maister shoulde in that happy day have an happy answere of his request."

To which the Queen made this witty reply :

" I blame you not to expect a reasonable answere and a sufficient ; but you may think it a great miracle, that a Childe borne at four of the clocke this morning should bee able to aunswere so learned and wise a Man as you are, sent from so great a Prince as yours, about so great and waighty affayres as you speake of, and in an unknowne tongue, by three of the clocke in the afternoone."

And so, " after using with him more prudent and gracious wordes, shee ended, and gave him leave to depart."

And here, after this confident testimony from the Queen's own mouth, to her skill in languages, of which her Majesty seems to have been not a little proud, we have an opportunity to notice an interlude written by the celebrated Sir John Davies, in which, among other topics of personal adulation, Elizabeth's accomp ishments as a linguist are particularly alluded to, and which has been connected with the name of Theobalds.* It is entitled " A Conference between a Gentleman Huisher and a Poet, before the Queene, at Mr.

* " Usher, — Art them a Post, and hast ridden so manic myles, and met with so many men ; and hast thou not hard that which all the world knowes, that shee speakes and understands all the languages in the world which are worthy to be spoken or understood ?"

1 6— 2

244 Hertfordshire.

Secretary's House," and Mr. Nichols has printed it in his " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth," voL Hi., pp. 76-78, under the year 1591, supposing it to have been delivered "at Theobalds." But there is nothing to show that Theobalds was here designated by the title of " Mr. Secretary's house ;" and another similar " pretty Dialogue of John Davies, 'twixt a Maid, a Widow, and a Wife "* (of which no copy is known), was performed so late as December, 1602, at " Mr. Secretary's house " in London ; which adjoined on the east to his brother's mansion in the Strand, called Burghley House, and after- wards Exeter 'Change, and was itself called Cecil House, and I believe afterwards Salisbury House.

Lord Burghley died in London on August 4, 1598 ; and the Queen is said to have been again at Theobalds on the 5th of the following month ; but, as I have found no subsequent notices of Elizabeth being at Theobalds, and have already written to a considerable extent, I will defer the further annals of the mansion, during the next and subsequent reigns, to another letter.

Yours, etc., J. G. N.

Clothall.

[1786, Part I I., p. 836.]

I send you the epitaph of Dr. Savage, in Clothall Church, tran- scribed from the papers of Dr. Paul Wright.

" H.S.E. Johannes Savage, S.T.P., hujusce parochtre per 39 annos rector in siguissimus, qui dovis male habitus ad exterces, regiones annis plus octo sponte excudavit, unde tola fere Europa perlustrata reversus cedes rectorias in formam augustiorum extruxit, ariam, hortos, horrea, amplicavit, decoravit. Templum etiam hoc Ueo sacrum si vives illi suffecerint aliquando exornationes. Obiit 24'° dii Martii Anno Salutis Christiana:, 1 747, retails sua; 65. Et hanc sibi epigraphen viveus designavit."

Flamstead.

[1812, Part I., pp. 210,211.]

The small remains of the once market-town of Flamstead are pleasantly situated on a hill about twenty-seven miles on the turnpike road, leading from London to Dunstable ; anciently called Verlamstedt, owing, it is supposed, to the river Vere, or Verulum, or Verlume, washing the foot of the hill.

In the time of King Edward the Confessor, Leofstane, Abbot of St. Alban's, gave this manor to three knights, Turnoth, Waldof, and Turman ; but in the time of William the Conqueror, Ralph de Thony, Todeny, Tony, or Toni, his standard-bearer at the battle of Hastings, held it, as appears from Domesday Book : " In Danais Hund. Ralf de Todeny holdeth Flamstede for two hides of land." Camden states it to have been granted to the father of Ralf. It was the chief place of his residence. He married the daughter of Simon de * See " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth," vol. iii., p. 601.

Flamstead. 245

Montford, and dying, left a son Ralf, who married the daughter of the Earl of Huntingdon and Northumberland, his heir. Roger was his heir, and married the daughter of the Earl of Hainault. Ralf was disinherited by King John for assisting the Barons, yet came into favour again, and was restored by Henry III. Robert, his successor in the sixth generation, 27 Edward I., obtained a charter of that king for a market on Thursdays, and a fair on the eve, day. and morrow after the feast of St. Leonard, and five days following. The present fair or feast is kept eleven days before ; the market has been long disused. To the manor, as Robert died 3 Edward II. without issue, Alice his sister, widow of Thomas Leyborn, was found heir, and married to Guy de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, whose heir was the famous Guy, who died near Calais 43 Edward III. His heirs enjoyed this a long time ; but male issue failing, and Anne, daughter of the Duke of Warwick, dying young, his sister Anne inherited, who was married to Richard Nevil, Earl of Salisbury, who had with her the title of Earl of Warwick. This Richard dying at Barnet field, temp. Edward IV., the estate fell to the Crown. His countess, 3 Henry VII., possessed it again, after the death of her daughters. Henry VIII. granted it to George Ferrars and his heirs, from whom it came to Sir John Ferrars and Knighton Ferrars of Beyford, whose daughter, Katharine, married to Thomas, Lord Fanshawe. Lord and Lady Fanshawe sold it to Serjeant Edward Pecke; from him it descended to William, his son, of Stamford in Essex, who left a son William, and he disposed of it to Mr. Pearce, whose second son is the present lord of the manor.

The church (see Plate I.) is dedicated to St. Leonard. It is in the hundred of Dacorum and deanery of Berkhamsted, valued in the King's books at £41 6.?. ?>d. a rectory impropriate, anciently in the Crown, part in the University of Oxford, and part in the Sebright family of Beechwood Park ; the former granted it by lease to tPiem that they should find a curate to officiate in the church. King James I. granted the reversion to trustees for Mr. Gunsty, curate therein, in 1618, by lease for forty-two years. The church stands high. Leland says, that " riding through a thorough fair on Watling Street, not far from Mergate (Market Street), he saw in a pretty wood side St. Leonard's on the left hand," etc. It is built in the Gothic style, of flints and courses of tiles (supposed to be Roman) alternately, part plastered, with a square tower at the west end, surmounted with a high leaded spire and vane ; and a clock dial on the north side. The building is uniform, consisting of a nave, two side aisles, north and south porch, and a chancel at the end, with a vestry on the north side, lofty ceiling, formerly two stories, in which is a piscina; door into the chancel, near which is a handsome monument by Flaxman, close to the altar, Faith and Hope at top, and an urn in the centre, inscribed as follows :

246 Hertfordshire*

" ' Sacred to the memory of Sir Edward Sebright, third baronet, descended from William Sebright, of Sebright Hall, in the county of Essex, and of Blakeshall, in the county of Worcester, in the reign of Henry II. He died December 15, 1702, aged 36 years, and was interred in a family vault at Besford Court, in the county of Worcester. He left issue four children, Thomas, Edward, Anne, and Helen.

" Dame Anne Sebright, only surviving daughter and sole heir of Thomas Saunders, esq., of Beechwood, in the county of Hertford, and Helen Sadler, of Sopewell, in the same county, relict of Sir Edward Sebright, third Baronet. She died December 25, 1719, aged 49 years. Her remains are deposited in her family vault in this church."

''Sir Thomas Saunders Sebright, fourth Baronet, died April the 12, 1736, aged 44. His remains are deposited In the family vault in this Church. He left issue two sons, Thomas and John."

" Dame Henrietta Sebright, relict of Sir Thomas Saunders Sebright, Baronet, and daughter of Sir Samuel Dashwood, Knight, died March 21, 1772, and her remains are deposited in the vault in this church."

" Edward Saunders Sebright, Esq., second son of Sir Edward Sebright, bart., travelling through France, was murdered by robbers, near Calais, December 12, '723" aged 2 5- His remains were brought to England, and are deposited in the family vault in this church."

"Sir Thomas Saunders Sebright, fifth Baronet, son of Sir Thomas and Dame Henrietta, died unmarried, October 30, 1761, aged 38. His remains are deposited in the family vault in this church."

J. S. B.

[1812, Part I., pp. 318-320.]

Above the altar-table, on the south corner, is a beautiful ancient mural monument, which had formerly a hearse over it ; arms at the top. . . .

In the centre the effigies ot the deceased, kneeling on a cushion before an altar with book open on it.

Beneath :

" Here lyeth the body of Sir Bartholomew Fouke, knight, who served Kinge Edward, Queen Mary, and was Master of the Houshold to Queen Elizabeth for many years, and to Kinge James that now is : in memorye of whose vertuous life (worthy eternal remembrance) Edward Fouke, gent., his brother, hath erected this Monument. Ubiit XIX lulii, 1604, aetatis sua; 69."

Beneath this is a piscina for holy water, the shelf still remaining. Adjoining are two stone seats, canopy above, and near these a wains- cot table, rails and floor of one step for the altar, under which are two stones with inscriptions on them :

" Mortale quiescat Dom. Mariae Luke, quae filia quinta Henrici Coningsby de Mymms Boreali, Eq. Aur. et Eliz. clarae familiae Botelorum de Woodhall, in com. Hertford."

"Conjux olim fuit Johannis Saunders,* de Puttenham, arm. (et ibid, sepulti) in diet. com. ; tandem joh. Luke de Flamsted nupta et viduata. Ob. 22 Aug. 1664."

On a long stone are effigies, with the Virgin and Child, in brass, and in old characters :

* A label from his mouth (now gone) as follows (Salmon's " Herts ") : " Miserere, Miserator, quia vere sum Peccator, Unde precor licet Reus, Miserere mei Deus."

Flamstead. 247

"Hie jacet magist. Johannes Oudeby, quondam Rector istius Ecclesia:, et de Barughby, Lincoln. Dioces. ; et Canonicus in Eccles. Collegiata beatse Manx in Warr. et Camerarius ex parte Comitis War. in Scaccario Domini Regis ; qui obiit 7 Maii 1414 ; cujus an. etc."

Next to this is another, with figures in brass, but no inscription. Another for

" Mrs. Ann Collington, who departed this life on the 22dday of October, 1753, aged 60 years."

Another :

"Here lyeth interred the body of Sarah Cotton, wife of Wm. Cotton, of Turner's Hall, in the Parish of Harpinden, gent, who departed this life i6th of January, 1697-8, setatis suae 30."

There are three hatchments against the north wall.

The chancel is divided from the church by a rich altar screen of carved oak, ornamentally painted, near which, on a small stone in the nave:

" Here lyeth the body of Mrs. Elizabeth Haley, whoe dyed the — day of October, 1687."

To the left a double pew for Sir John Sebright and family, of Beechwood Park, in this parish.

On the first pillar, right hand, is cut with a knife, by one of the clerks it is supposed, the following inscription, and a painted head underneath :

" In this midle space, and at this seats end, There lyeth buried our neighbor and frind Old John Grigge of Cheverills End. An'o 1591, April!' 15."

On the first left pillar :

" Within this isle where bricks are laide There lieth buried a virgin mayde ; Frauncys Cordell was her name, She lived and died in godlye fame. An'o 1597, Junii j.

On the next pillar :

" Of this seat's ende in the midle alley, There lieth buried John Paley the valley. An'o 1590, Junii xiiii."

Over one of the arches a framed board, with arms, and the follow- ing inscription :

"At the upper ende of this midle ile lyeth intered the body of George Cordell, esquire, who served Queen Elizabeth, and was sergeant of the Ewry to King James and the late King Charles, in all sixty yeeres, who married Dorothy, the only daughter and heyre of Francis Prior, of this parish, with whom she lived 52 yeares, and deceased the 26th May, 1653, being aged 84 yeeres."

One Ann Prior lived in this parish to the age of 120 years. Near the before-mentioned board was the rood-loft, the door to which is at the top of the north aisle, instead of which is a painting

248 Hertfordshire.

by Hull over the screen — Aaron on one side, a warrior on the other, and Moses in the rear. On the north side, between two of the columns, is a very ancient altar-tomb, with the effigies of the deceased, male and female, right hands joined across ; at their heads a rich canopy curiously carved, at their feet two dogs; a label defaced. Weever mentions tbjee ancient tombs (of which this only now remains), supposed to have been for lords of this manor, and probably more ancient than the use of inscriptions in England.

Near the west end is the font of an octagon shape. At the west- end is a gallery. The nave is divided from the north and south aisles by two rows of octagon pillars, five on each side, with rich carved capitals.

At the top of the south aisle is a very elegant marble monument with six figures, viz., five on the pedestal moulding and one in the centre of the pavement below, all in a kneeling posture, a banner at top with a red cross ; there have been two others :

"Thomas Saunders, de Beechwood, arm. peccatorum maximus, credens in unum Deam, diving sua providentia terrena quecunque pubernantem et sapien- tissime disponentem, et in Redemptorem Mundi Jesum Christum die ultimo futu- rum judicem, cum ex Plelena, filia et hserede Roberti Sadlieri de Sopewella, clara.- et antique in hoc agro familiar, sex liberos susceperit, viz. Thomam, Robertum, Helenam, Johannem, Annam, Helenam, quorum quinque ante parentes decesse- runt, et Anna tantum parvula superstes existit, cui Deus propitius sit ! In eorum piam memoriam, quibus nihil amplius dari possit, monumentum hoc, ut signum amoris, curse, et beneficentise, si vixissent, futune, lugens posuit, spe certa con- fidens se futurum heredem regni coelorum ; et licet e corpore hseredem in terris non relinquit, hanc tamen consolationem assecutus, quod ex se additur icgno coelorum."

On the moulding :

"Talium est regnum coelorum." . . .

Near to this in the floor, black marble slab :

" M. S. E. Thomas Saunders, filius natn maximus Gulielmi Saunders, de Londino, generosi (fratris Thomae Saunders, de Beechwood, in hac parochia, armigeri), et Abigalis, uxoris ejus, filise Thomse Saunders, de Hadnam, in com. Bucks, armigeri. Obijt 15 Feb. anno Dom. 1690-1, setatis suae undecimo. In- dolis optima; ac maximse spei, luctus nunc, olim delicias parentum. Hie juxta reconditur Gulielmus, vix bimestris, filius natu minor Gulielmi supradicti."

Against the wall a white marble mural monument :

"To the memory of Richard Pearce, late of Milbank Street, Westminster, Brewer, and Lord of the Manor of Flamsted ; who lieth buried in the family vault in; this Church-yard. He died January 16, 1800, aged 79 years ; having the character, which he well deserved, of a tender Husband, a good Father, a true Christian, and a sincere Friend."

Near this are two ancient hatchments.

Robert Rich, Earl of Warwick, married the daughter and heir of Sir Wm. Hatton (alias Newport), of Cheverells Green, knight in this parish, which Robert died April 18, 1658, and buried at (Felstead).

Flamstead. 249

Perhaps Flamstead is meant ; but there is no monument, nor any traces of his being buried there. Heylin. To be preserved as not now to be found :

" In this isle is buried the body of Ann Poure, second daughter of Francis Poure, of Blechinton, in the county of Oxon, esq., and of Ann, his second wife, the third daughter to Julius Ferrers, of Market, in the county of Hertford, esq., who died 13 June, 1631." (Salmon's " Herts.")

The tower at the west end has a lofty arch into the nave, but stopped up, and a double door opposite. Above is the ringing-floor ; over that a floor occupied by the clock and windlass, and another floor occupied by a peal of six tunable bells, on five of which is inscribed "Chandler made me 1664," and on another, "John Waylett, London, fecit 1729." The tower seems going fast to decay. It is held together by iron ties in several parts, and buttressed up on the outside. The body of the church seems crippled ; the walls without and the pillars within are visibly out of the upright.

According to Matthew Paris, 1006, this church was a chapel de- pending upon Redborn, which Richard, Abbot of St. Alban's fraudulently and simoniacally alienated from his monastery about the year 1112.

In the churchyard surrounding are several gravestones and eight altar-tombs.

Four almshouses, facing the church, were built and endowed by the Saunders family, on the front of which are two portraits in stone, defaced. They are for two widowers and two widows, who have ^5 per annum out of lands called Gately Grounds.

Yours, etc., J. S. B.

Hatfield.

[1818, Part J., p. 297.]

The accompanying drawing exhibits a general view of Hatfield in Hertfordshire (see Plate I.), showing on the right Hatfield House, the noble mansion of the Marquis of Salisbury, built in the reign of James I. by Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, in the centre the stables, etc., and on the left the Church of Hatfield, with the Salisbury Arms inn. [A quotation from the " Beauties of England," vol. vii., pp. 276-277 is omitted.] M.

Hemel Hempstead.

[1808, Part II., p. 940.]

A curious piece of antiquity has lately been discovered in the churchyard of Hemel Hempstead, in Hertfordshire. In digging a vault for a young lady of the name of Warren, the sexton, when he had excavated the earth about four feet below the surface of the ground, found his spade to strike against something solid, which, upon inspection, he discovered to be a large wrought stone, which

250 Hertfordshire.

proved to be the lid of a coffin, and under it the coffin entire, which was afterwards taken up in perfect condition ; but the bones contained therein, on being exposed to the air, crumbled to dust. On the lid of the coffin is an inscription, partly effaced by time, but still suffi- ciently legible, decidedly to prove it contained the ashes of the celebrated Ofla, King of the Mercians, who rebuilt the Abbey of St. Alban's, and died in the eighth century. The coffin is about six feet and a half long, and contains a niche or resting-place for the head, and also a groove on each side for the arms, likewise for the legs ; it is curiously carved, and altogether unique of the kind.

Hertingfordbury.

[1788, Part /.,//. 191, 192.]

In the parish of Hertingfordbury, about two miles from Essenden, in the county of Hertford, is a spring of water known by the name of " Aquatile-hole " (vulgo, " Akerley-hole "), now in the tenure or occu- pation of Samuel Whitbread, Esq., of the most copious or singular nature in the island, supposed to deliver a quantity of water at the mouth or opening sufficient for the discharge of a pipe of the bore of three feet and a half in diameter. This spring arises within 100 yards of the river Lea, into which it disembogues, and in that short space actually furnishes a greater quantity of water than what is con- tained in the river itself, which is well known to take the aggregate springs from Lea Grove Marsh, near Dunstable, in Bedfordshire, to that place. What most astonishes me is that none of your historians, geographers, or noters of antiquity have noticed this extraordinary natural curiosity, or that none of the mechanical geniuses of the present day, considering its contiguity to the Metropolis, and con- sidering its unbounded ability, should not have thought it, long ere this, an object of serious attention and experiment J. B.

Hinxworth.

[1 784, Part I I., pp. 74S-746.]

At Hinxworth Place are the following :

Arms in the parlour window. Argent, on a bend vert between two cottises dauncette gules, a crescent for a difference or.

Second shield. The same coat, impaling quarterly, first and fourth sable, three dexter hands couped argent. Hanchett second gules, three chevrons or. Montfitchet An ancient baron. Third gules, three lozenges in bend argent, a martlet or for a difference. Under- neath Grey and . . . ., it was formerly Hanchett.

Third shield. Quarterly, first and fourth, or, a lion rampant queue furche gules within a border of the same. Second and third azure, a bend argent between seven billets, or. Underneath Malory and .... 1570.

Hinxworth. 251

In the chamber window. First shield. Quarterly first and fourth. Quarterly, per fesse indented gules and or. Bromley. Second argent, on a chevron within a border ingrailed gules, five bezants. Third argent, on a fesse sable, three cross croslets or, between six fleurs-de-lis. Impaling, quarterly, first and fourth azure, a bend ingrailed argent, cottised or. Fortescue. Second and third, argent frettee azure, on a chief of the second, three roses of the first, barbed and seeded gold. These were the arms of Sir Thomas Bromley, knight, who was Solicitor-General in 1569, and in 1579 was made Lord Chancellor (Dugdale's "Chronica Series," pp. 93 and 94). He married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Adrian Fortescue. This shield, by the blunder of some glazier repairing the window, has been turned outwards ; so that, as it now stands, the second quartering in the Fortescue arms is the first coat.

Second shield in the chamber window. Quarterly, first argent, a lion passant in fesse gules, between two bars sable, charged with three bezants, in chief, three stags' heads raboshed of the third. Parker, Lord Morley, and Monteagle. Second argent, a lion rampant sable, crowned gules. Sir Robert Morley, temp. Edward I. Third quarterly. First and fourth barry nebulee of six or and gules. William Lovell, who by his marriage with Eleanor, daughter and heiress to Robert Lord Morley, had the title of Lord Morley. Second and third azure, a lion rampant argent.

Fourth coat. Gules, a bend fusilee or. Crest. Out of a ducal coronet or, a bear's head sable, bridled gold.

Alice, sister to Henry, only son of the said William, was married to Sir Henry Parker, knight, whose son Henry was, 21 Henry VIII., summoned to Parliament by the title of Lord Morley.

Third shield in the chamber window. Twelve coats formerly quartered. First argent, three bars azure, in chief three torteauxes. Grey. Second argent, a chief indented azure. Glanville. Third or, a maunch gules. Hastings, Earl of Pembroke. Fourth argent, a double tressure floree counterfloree, in the honorary point an in- escutcheon gules. Scott, Earl of Huntingdon. Fifth is almost demolished ; but part of the field, and the top of a garb appearing, shows that it was azure, three garbs, or. Blundeville, Earl of Chester. Sixth gules, three leopards heads jessant fleurs-de-lis, or. Cantelupe. Seventh azure, a lion rampant, or. Eighth, barry of ten argent and azure, nine martlets, gules. Audomare de Valentia, Earl of Pem- broke. Ninth, Newburgh, or Berkley, demolished. Tenth, de- molished, except part of the field or ; and it was probably or, three inescutcheons barry of six vaire and gules, being the arms of Joan Montchensy, mother of Audomare de Valentia, Earl of Pembroke. Eleventh, almost demolished, but part of the field argent, and the chief azure, charged with three crosses pattee sitchee of the field. Strongbow. Twelfth, sable, three garbs argent. Mackmurrough.

252 Hertfordshire.

Dermot MacMurrough, knight, of Leicester, married Eva, the only daughter and heir to Richard Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke. The second, third, eighth, tenth, and eleventh coats are in Dugdale's " Origines Juridiciales," p. 300, quartered by the Lord Grey of Wilton ; and many of them are likewise quartered by the present Earl of Stamford.

There is no account of these several shields in Sir Henry Chauncey ; and Salmon's description of them is very short and imperfect.

PAUL WRIGHT.

Hunsdon.

[1795, Parti., p. 13.]

I have been during the last spring over a considerable part of Hertfordshire, and made many sketches, one of which, from Hunsdon Church, as it is mentioned by Salmon, p. 254, as uncommon, I think may perhaps merit your attention (Fig. 3). Under it, in capitals, is inscribed :

" Beloved of all whilst he had lyfe, Vnmoan'd of none when he did die, JAMES GRAY, interred of his wife, Near to this Death's signe brass doth lye ; Years thirty-five in good renown Park and housekeeper of this town.

Obiit 12 die Decembris, a° d'ni 1591, oet. 60."

Curious as it is, it, however, shows the engraver was no anatomist.

PHILOGRAPHICE.

[1795, Part /.,/. 123.]

" Philographice," p. 13, has not sufficiently explained the design of the monument in Hunsdon Church. It is meant to commemo- rate the extraordinary death of the gamekeeper, who expired suddenly whilst in the act of shooting at a buck with a crossbow. The same church contains many other very curious monuments, an account of which would be a treat to your antiquarian readers. Hunsdon House, the property and residence of Felix Calvert, Esq., was inhabited by the children of Henry VIII., on account of the salubrity of the air.

TEMPCANETON.

Knebworth.

[1790, Part II., pp. 983-986.]

Having lately had an opportunity of seeing the ancient mansion of the Lytton family at Knebworth, near Stevenage, in Hertfordshire, your topographical readers may not be displeased with some account of it.

Knebworth House is a large structure, built of brick, round a quad- rangle, of which the east front may be seen in Sir H. Chauncey's

Knebworth. 253

" History of Hertfordshire," p. 352. The approach to it is by iron gates in a court walled round, corresponding with an arched gateway in the centre of a part of the front, sided by imitations of embattled towers, from which extend two unequal wings. The north side is partly formed by a colonnade of seven light round arches on pillars, opening to a garden, and supporting a gallery 76 feet long by 14 wide, floored with oak, and as many windows over the arches. The south side of this colonnade is lighted by windows corresponding with the rest of the quadrangle. At the west end of this colonnade is a suite of rooms with modern sashes, as is the greater part of the west side to the park. In this side is a spacious hall, fitted up in a later style, with a gallery at the upper end, and communicating with the kitchens and offices at the south-west end. In the west side is another gate- way, corresponding with the former, sided by a tower in the staircase, in the spandrel of whose door is the Lytton rebus, a tun in an L. Under a long window on this side is a tun richly flowered, and over this window the Lytton arms. Over the inside of the first or eastern gateway are the arms of Lytton, quartering Booth, Oke and Wayland, and the date 1563, which fixes it to Rowland Lytton, great-grandson to the first purchaser of this family, Sheriff of Herts, 1568, 10 Eliza- beth, and afterwards knighted. He died 1582, and was buried in the church. On the grand staircase are the portraits, three-quarters, of Sir Rowland, lieutenant of the county, and commander of their troops at Tilbury, 1588, and his lady, Anne, daughter of Oliver, Lord St. John, Baron of Bletsoe. He is represented in dark hair, whiskers and peaked beard, armed completely in plated armour, almost to the knees, on which appear flowered silk or linen drawers, with red garters, reaching to his black boots, which just appear ; red sash and tassels to his sword. In his right hand he holds a heavy tilting-lance ; his left hand is akimbo ; his helmet stands on a table behind him. Above, behind his head, are his arms quarterly :

Ermine, on a chief indented gules 3 crowns or — Lytton.

Sable on a fess azure between 6 trefoils, 3 oak-leaves gules — Oke.

Argent 3 boars' heads sable — Booth.

Ermine a cross gules, charged with 4 bezants — Weyland.

Motto : " Hoc virtvtis opvs."

Crest: a bittern in rushes, and over it 1588, with another motto. Before his face a tree, with an inscription, which, as well as the second motto, the height of the stairs prevented from being seen.

His lady is represented in her hair, ruff, black gown, double gold chain, supported by her left hand, and in her right a silver ball.

On another staircase is a portrait of a man in red hair and enormous ruff, his left hand on his belly. By him is written, "A° aetatis, 23, 1586."

Below these is a three-quarter portrait of Sir Watkin Williams

254 Hertfordshire.

Wynne, in a tie-wig, brown coat, laced waistcoat ; in his left hand, " An act for the more effectually preventing bribery and corruption of members to serve in Parliament."

On the landing-place a whole-length portrait of a man in his hair, whiskers and falling beard, black coat and mantle, trunk hose, roses to shoes, standing on a red and white lozenge pavement, his right hand on a table, his left on his sword. Behind him, in the left corner, is a view, as seems, of St. Mark's Square at Venice.

In one of the rooms are high-backed wooden chairs, painted with "R. L." in cipher, and this coat — i, 4, gules over a fret or a fess azure. 2, 3, azure.

In the gallery a whole-length portrait of the last Mr. Lytton, leaning on his gun, in a gold-laced green coat, ribbed stockings, square-toed, high-quartered shoes, and tie-wig ; a pointer running, looking back to him. At the right corner below, " Ferrers ; surdus & mutus pinxit, 1710."

A whole-length of a young gentleman, in a similar style of compo- sition, seems of the same master.

A small head on board, in armour, with ruff and red hair, super- scribed : " Le dvc mateas davstriche."

Another small head on board of a lady, in small cap and coronet, ruff and standing cape, with a double-headed spread eagle pendent from her necklace.

A man with flowing hair, in armour, in a red gown with white sleeves under it.

A coat-of-arms, of quarterly : i, 4 — Lytton. Q. 2 ermine in a canton sable a crescent azure. 3, ermine on a chief indented azure 3 crowns — Lytton. On a shield of pretence gules an anchor or on a chief or, 3 torteaux.

Crest, a bird with wings extended sable.

Another small woman's head on board, in a ruff, small cap, black and ermine gown, and rich stomacher, superscribed : " Chaterina d Holande."

A pedigree of the Lytton family, by Peter le Neve.

Two portraits of ladies, in the style of Lely.

In a room contiguous to the gallery, over the chimney, are rude bas-reliefs of Venus and Adonis, with churches in the distant land- scape. This and another adjoining room are hung with old tapestry.

In another room, a head of Lord Strafford, in armour.

A lady in a black veil.

Le Prince d'Orange — small.

La Princesse d'Orange — small.

On another staircase : A fine three-quarter portrait of a handsome young man, in light curled hair, long laced neckcloth, coat with buttons to the bottom, open, and showing loose drawers, with bunches of tapes or straps at the knees, such as also hang from the shoulders

Knebworth. 255

and from the waistband, the linen of the sleeve falling from under a cuff with three buttons ; the sword, with a plain hilt, hangs from a rich broad belt, embroidered or quilted.

A head, in a ruff, beard and whiskers, superscribed : " Bussy d'Amboyse, homme de sang & de feu."

Another head, superscribed : " Boulainville de Montmorency." An emblematical painting of a landscape, with the figure of a woman reclining over a skull on a sarcophagus adorned with reliefs of a sacrifice ; at her head a pillar, on whose base is this inscription, pointed to by a man in a moresque dress or blanket, barefooted :

"In illo tempore memorabo & sepulchrum qui illustrissimo addorato percit6 mento more qu *. . . Triumph."

Under a statue of Diana, or a woman with a dart :

" Nemo magis felix. Anno D. 1685."

" In Romae Onnobibus," under a Csesar's laureate bust.

A man like a porter carrying water or milk in pails flung over his shoulders up a large stone staircase.

Other inscriptions illegible.

A head of James I., holding a blue garter from his neck in his left hand, as at Hatfield. On one side of him, " Serio."

At the upper end of the hall, in a gallery, hangs a large group of whole-length portraits of the last Mr. Lytton, his lady, and three young ladies (two with fishing-rods and fish, a third in a riding-dress), and a young gentleman standing by Mrs. L. who holds a music-book with some notes and these words, "Blow winds, blow winds, and bear me to some grove !"

The church stands in the park, at a small distance S.E. from the house : a neat structure, fitted-up in a modern manner ; the nave and chancel of one pace, with a west tower and small spire, and a south porch. A north chapel to the chancel is the burial-place of the family, and contains the following monuments.

Rowland Lytton, 1582; and his two wives, Margaret Tate and Anne Carleton, with their figures in brass, and an inscription in black letter.

Anne St. John, 1601, wife of his son Rowland.

Judith their daughter, wife of Sir Thomas Barrington, 1657.

Jane, another daughter, wife of Sir Charles Crofts, 1672.

Judith, their great-granddaughter, wife of Maurice Abbot.

George Strode, her second husband, 1707.

Sir William Lytton, 1 704 ; and his two wives.

Mary Harrison and Phillipa Keyling.

Lytton Lytton, his sister's son by George Strode, 1710.

These three heavy marble monuments, the two first with recumbent

* This space has letters hid by the figure pointing to it.

256 Hertfordshire.

figures, the last with a standing figure in a long wig and neckcloth, and a coat buttoned down to his toes, are the work of Edward Stanton, of London.

As the inscriptions on these, and several others of lesser note, may be found in Chauncey, pp. 356, 357, and Salmon, p. 201, I forbear to repeat them. But I shall describe a monument of white marble erected since their time to the last heir of the family, the son of Lytton Lytton, 1732. It represents a man in a stiff coat, and a woman in a gown, kneeling at the ends of a sarcophagus, on which are carved in relief three boys holding a snake biting its tail (the emblem of eternity), an hour-glass, and a skull. In a panel above a man stands holding a skull, his wife sits by him, their youngest daughter stands, and at her right another daughter leans on an urn of flowers. The arms are Lytton quartering the fret, and on a shield of pretence the anchor, and in chief 3 ....

Inscription [omitted].

His relict died March 13, 1790, aged 67, and was buried in a brick grave in the churchyard, just by the chancel door. The estate on her death has devolved to Warburton Lytton, Esq.

Against the north wall of the chancel is a black marble monument, with a female bust in white marble in a niche, subscribed IVDITHA, and under it an inscription for Judith, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton, wife of Sir Nicholas Strode, who died 1662, aged twenty-four.

At the entrance of the Lytton chapel lies a slab inlaid with the following inscription in five brass lines, in the black character :

" Hie procerutn de stirpe satum cum conjuge clari Joh'is Hotoft iterum tellusis co . . . urnis, Hospicii regis qui thesaurarius olim Henrici Sexti merito pollebat honore. Sit lux p'petua sibi post haec horrida lustra I"

A sixth line, of which Chauncey gives only : " Corpora spiritibus. ..."

is now torn away, and the ends of the others are hid by the iron railing. On the slab are the arms of Hotoft, 3 pikes' heads, twice single, and once quartering azure 2 bars gules in chief 3 ogresses. — In Chauncey's time this made part of an altar tomb on the north side of the chancel. Sir John Hotoft, Sheriff of Herts 7 Henry IV., treasurer of Henry VI.'s household, knight of the shire i, 2, 3, 5, Henry V. and i Henry VI., was lord of this manor from 13 Henry IV. to his death ; and his daughter Idonea conveyed it to Sir John Barre, by whose daughter. Isabel it passed to Sir Thomas Bourchier; and on his death, 6 Henry VII., was purchased by the Lyttons.*

* John Robinson Lytton, Esq., of Knebworth, was created Doctor of Civil Law at Oxford in 1746.

Knebworth. 2 5 ;

In the chancel, on a slab :

"John Ham, clerk, 3d son of John Ham, of Widhayes, Devon, esq., died May 20, 1684."

On the floor of the chancel lies a fine brass figure of a priest (Simon Bache) in his cope, adorned with saints. [Inscription omitted.]

At the east end of the church, in the yarJ, is an altar-tomb, inscribed :

"The rev. Mr. Peter Ellice, rector of this parish, died Jan. 24, 1788, aged 76."

He was of Jesus College, Oxford, M.A. 1736, B.D. 1743; and is

succeeded here, and at Letchworth in the same patronage, by

Price, brother of Mr. P., steward for the estate.

The rectory-house is pleasantly situated at the north-east end of the village. Just above it is a good brick house built by Mr. Price, the steward.

R. K. W. G. Market Street.

[1846, Part //., pp. 467-470.]

Market Street is a way-side village of the old Wading Street, between St. Albans and Dunstable, and formerly subsisted chiefly upon the traffic created by the passing traveller. It stands within the three parishes of Caddington, Flamstead, and Studham, and the first and last of those parishes are each divided between the two counties of Bedford and Hertford. So irregular is the boundary line, that it has been a matter of dispute among the writers of our topographical and monastic history in which county the cell, or nunnery, which gave importance to the village, was actually situated. The preponderance of opinion, however, appears to be in favour of Hertfordshire. Messrs. Lysons, though they have noticed the nunnery in their " Magna Brit- annia" for Bedfordshire, say that it was "on the Hertfordshire side of the parish," and Mr. Clutterbuck has describ-d it in his " History " of that county.

The foundation of the cell of Markate is ascribed to Roger, a priest and monk of St. Alban's, whose legendary biography is detailed by Matthew Paris in his history of the abbots of that house. He was first led to the spot by three angels, who, clothed in snowy robes and stoles, each bearing in their hands a cross, and above the cross a candle burning with more than the splendour of wax, met him at Windsor when returning from a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and, con- ducting him to the aforesaid spot, declared that he was there to remain in the service of God. Here, says the histoiian, he suffered many hardships, and endured such temptations as Matthew thinks were never surpassed. No one was ever more severe on his own flesh, no one more compassionate to the afflictions of others. He was distinguished by the spirit of prophecy, and was esteemed most excellent in contemplation. With such intentness was he wont to

VOL. xvn. 1 7

258 Hertfordshire.

pray, that when the devil once appeared visibly in flames, and even set fire to the cowl upon his back, he would not be deterred from his devout purpose, nor cut short his prayer.

To the teaching of this Roger adhered the blessed Christina, a virgin born at Huntingdon, who, for the love of chastity, had relin- quished ample possessions and a paternal roof abounding in riches. But still Roger consented not to look upon the face of the virgin, although she remained a recluse with him for four years and more. On the contrary, he ingeniously contrived to bury her alive. There was a house adjoining his oratory, and which in its conjunction formed an angle just sufficient to hold a single table. In this prison Roger lodged the rejoicing Christina, and placed for a door a block of wood larger than the prisoner could move. Here the confined handmaid of Christ sat upon the hard and cold stones, until the death of Roger, which (as aforesaid) was for four years and more, concealing five hermits, who all lived together with Roger. Her bodily sufferings are next described with a minuteness that is almost disgusting ; also her patience, and the teaching of Roger, the friend of God. At length she was favoured with a vision of the Lord Jesus Christ, beautiful in form beyond the sons of men, and bearing a golden cross, telling her it was necessary that all should bear this cross who wished to go to Jerusalem. The which vision when she had related to Roger, he began to weep for joy, saying, in the vulgar tongue, " Rejoice with me, myn gode Sonendayes doghter (that is, my good daughter of the Lord's day), for your tribulation is shortly to cease." And it happened even as the man of God had spoken ; for he made her his heir in the cell, and she, advised by a vision, and comforted by the blessed Mary, knew that it was necessary for her to take up her abode in his habitation.

Other wonders which ensued are too long for detail in this place, but they are extracted (in the original Latin) in Dugdale's " Monasticon." Hearing that Thurstan, Archbishop of York, was at the neighbouring town of Redbourn, Roger requested his neighbour Godescall of Caddington and his wife to take Christina to that prelate, who was a great favourer of ascetics, and encouraged the lady in her purpose. This, however, had no further result ; but, shortly after the hermit's death, Geoffrey de Gorham, the abbot of St. Alban's was induced by his opinion of the sanctity of Christina, and the sympathetic visions with which each were favoured, to build the nunnery from its founda- tions. A few years after, when a serious fire had occurred, he repeated this pious labour.

The foundation charter was granted in 1145 by the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's. It gave the site of the monastery of the Holy Trinity in Caddington, as it was then marked out by ditches, and a wood between the ditches at Watlinghestrete, three furlongs and thirty perches in length, to Christina and her canonical successors, they

Market Street. 259

paying yearly three shillings to the chapter of St. Paul's. This charter was laid upon the altar of the church by Ralph the dean, Theodoric a canon, and Nicholas a clerk, on the part of the chapter, at the time of its consecration by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln. On this occasion there were also present Patrick, Bishop of Limerick, Alcelin, Dean of Lincoln, the Archdeacons of Huntingdon, Bedford, and Bucking- ham, the abbot, prior, and many monks of St. Alban's, and many other canons, clerks, and laity.

Into the history of the possessions of the nunnery we here cannot enter for want of space ; what is known respecting them, and a list of the prioresses, will be found in the "New Monasticon," * vol. iii., p. 368. In the 28 Henry VIII. its revenue amounted to

After the dissolution it appears that the house of Merkyate was first possessed by Humphrey Bourchier, a son of Lord Berners. So says Leland in his "Itinerary": " Mergate was a nunnery of late tyme. It stondith on an hil in a faire woode hard by Watheling streate ; on the est side of it Humfray Boucher, base sunne to the late lorde Berners, did much coste in translating of the priorie into a maner-place, but he left it nothing endid." This must have been before 1536 (28 Henry VIII.), on September 7, in which year "the scite and demeanes of the late priory of Markeyate, in the countie of Bedford," were purchased of the King by George Ferrers, gentleman, by a negotiation of which the particulars are given in the " Monasticon." It continued in that family until the middle of the seventeenth century, when it became the property of Thomas Coppin, Esq., who, by his will in 1662, founded a school in Market Street. His grand- son, John, in 1734 erected a chapel near the cell, which was repaired and enlarged by Joseph Howell, Esq., then owner of the cell, early in the present century.

This gentleman, who purchased from the Coppins, is described by Mr. Clutterbuck, in 1815, as "the present owner. The mansion- house (he adds), disencumbered from large gloomy yews and a blockading terrace, now forms an interesting object from the public road. Under the terrace were discovered some remains of the original cell, which have been preserved bv the drawings of Mr. Fisher."

It is from Mr. Fisher's drawings, made in 1805, which are now

* In p. 369 the editors of the " New Monasticon " quote a note from New- come's " History of St. Alban's," in which that author notices an assault by fifty robbers, about the year 1269, on "the cell at Merkgate Street, called St. Giles de Bosco ;" but the editors in the previous page had said that the nunnery of St. Giles de Bosco was another foundation. See Woodchurch Priory, in Clutterbuck, i., 361, and Flamstead Nunnery (the same) in "New Monasticon," vol. iv., p. 299. Leland has made a mistake respecting this nunnery, calling it St. Leonard's instead of St. Giles's.

17 — 2

260 Hertfordshire.

before us, that we are enabled to give the following account of what was then discovered. They consist of:

1. A general view of the house and chapel.

2. A view of the chapel.

3. A south view of the house from the dove-house court.

4. A south view of the house from the inner court, which is that engraved in the accompanying plate.

5. A view of the foundations of the church of the nunnery, opened in 1805 on the lawn immediately before the house. These evidently belonged to the extreme east end, or chanrel.

6 and 7. Sketches of part of a coffin-lid, the fragment of a sepulchral inscription,

and other architectural fragments, together with a ground-plan, which is given in the preceding page.

The foundations, which were opened, disclosed several bases of pilasters, some of them flanking windows, and decidedly of the Early English period. The sculptured fragments found were also of the same style.

The ground-floor of the house had windows of Perpendicular Pointed architecture, and probably of Humphrey Bourchier's building, immediately after the dissolution, as mentioned by Leland. The three upper stories were more probably of the age of Charles I. They presented five gables towards the rear of the building ; and from an old drawing in the house, it appears there were formerly gables on all sides, and a turret crowned with a cupola at each corner of the building.

Towards the highroad on the west the mansion had received a still more recent front of only two stories, having long sash-windows, probably of the time of the Coppins. J. G. N.

Paul's Walden.

[1798, Fart II., p. 758.]

Passing the other day through the village of Paul's Walden, in Hertfordshire, I happened to walk into the church, and there copied the following inscriptions on flat stones, which at some convenient opportunity you perhaps may think worth inserting in your Miscellany.

Arms of Gilbert : [Gules], an armed leg couped at the thigh, in pale between two broken spears [argent, headed or].. Crest, an arm embowed in armour [proper], holding a broken spear [or], point downwards.

" Here lyeth the remains of EDWARD GILBERT, late of the Bury, in this parish, who died the 27th of May, 1762, in the 82d year of his age, leaving behind him one daughter, Mary, now living, the widow of George Bowes, late of Gibside and Streatlam castle, in the county of Durham, esq., deceased, and one grand- daughter, Mary Eleanor Bowes, their daughter, now living."

Paul's Waldcn. 261

Another : The arms of Gilbert impaling a chevron between

three eagles heads erased .

" Here lieth the body of MARY, late wife of Edward Gilbert, of the Bury, in this parish, who died the 2d of September, MDCCLII., in the XLVith year of her age.*

Another :

"Here lieth the body of JOHN GILBERT, esf]., who departed this life the loih of May, 1768, in the S7'.h year of h'S aye."

Another: Arms, an anchor, and on a chief three roundels impaling a chevron between three sprigs of .

"Here lieih interred the body of JANE HEYSHAM, wife of Robert Heysham, esq., of Stagenhoe, who departed this life the i6ih day of February, 1721. — Here also lieth the body of KOHKRT HEYSHAM, of Siagei hoe, esq., who was born in Lancaster, and served that corporation in pailiament fifteen years, and ihe city of London seven yeari, who died an alderman of ihe said city the 25th day of February, anno Domini, 1722, in the 6oth year of his age. He left issue only oue son, Robert Hey»ham, in the loth year of his age."

On another, an anchor, and in chief three roundels, impaling on a bend , between two cottises ermine, three lions passant .

"Here lieth inteired the body of WILUAM HEYSHAM, of Greenwich, in ihe county of Kent, esq., who was member of parliament ten years last past for the corporation of Lancaster. He mariied Sarah, daughter of Richard Perry, of London, esq., and died the I4th day of April, anno Domini, 1727, in the 361!) year of his age."

Another :

" M. S. Here lieth the body of JANE HF.VSIIAM, daughter of Robert Heysham, of Stagenhoe, esq., who died ihe 14th of November, 1711, aged three years two months. — Here also lieih the body of ELIZABETH HEVSHAM, daughter of William Heyaham, esq., of Greenwich, and member ot parliament for Lancaster. She departed this life the 2oih ol February, 1720, in the 26th year of her age."

The William Heysham last mentioned was probably father of the other William. B. L.

Ridge.

[1797, Fart I., pp. 9, 10.]

In the year 1547 Sir Thomas Tope, founder of Trinity College, Oxford, bought of King Henry VIII. the ancient stately mansion- house of Tyttenhanger, in the parish of Ridge, in Hertfordshire, being the country-seat of the abbots of St. Alb.m's, and which, but for this purchase, would have been destroyed as an appendage to the abbey. This house was so large that, in 1528, King Henty VIII., with his queen Catharine and their retinue, removed hither during the continuance of the sweating sickness in London.

In this house Sir Thomas Pope made great improvements. It became his favourite place of residence-, and the statutes of his college are dated thence. He erected over the vestibule of the great hall a noble gallery lor wind-music. The chapel was a spacious edifice, and beautifully decorated. The windows were enrichea w.tu

262 Hertfordshire,

painted glass, which Sir Thomas Pope brought hither from the choir of St. Alban's Abbey, when that church, by his interposition with the King, was preserved from total destruction. The wainscot behind or over the stalls was finely painted with a series of the figures of all the saints who bore the name of John, in memory of John Moor, one of the abbots. But Sir Thomas Pope put up a new piece of wainscot, of Spanish oak, on a very large scale, at the east end, most ex- quisitely sculptured, beginning at the end of the stalls, and continued towards the altar. This was to adorn that part of the chapel which was usually called the presbytery, or the space about and near the altar.

After Sir Thomas Pope's death, in 1559, Tyttenhanger House continued to be inhabited by the relations of his second wife, bearing the name of Pope-Blount. In the year 1620 it began to be lessened or pulled down in part, about which time the family of Napier, then tenants to Trinity College, Oxford, at Luton, by the mediation of the college, removed the wainscot above-mentioned, put up by Sir Thomas Pope in the chapel of Tyttenhanger House, in entire pre- servation to the chapel of the mansion-house at Luton. John, Earl of Bute, about the year 1768, pulled down this old mansion-house at Luton, to build a new house in its place, but, with great taste and judgment retained the old chapel, with Sir Thomas Pope's wainscot, where it still remains (" Bibl. Top. Br.it.," viii., 69).

No traces of the old house at Tyttenhanger now remain. It was totally demolished about the year 1652, and was soon afterwards most elegantly rebuilt as it appears at present

T. WARTON.

St. Alban's.

[1803, Fart II., pp. 820, 82 1. j

The abbey-church of St. Alban is entered from the west under a spacious and beautiful porch, above which is a large window, affording almost all the light in the nave, in which the greater part of the windows are blocked up. On our entrance we see on each side four lofty clustered columns supporting pointed arches, beyond which are three semicircular arches on the north side, with plain solid pillars ; but opposite these the pillars are clustered and the arches pointed. As we advance, a most beautiful stone screen presents itself to our view. This is principally composed of niches with their canopies, and has two doors richly carved. It probably divided the nave from the ancient choir. Within this are on each side three semicircular arches with a modern marble font in the centre of the pavement. The part of the edifice at present appro- priated to the celebration of divine service is principally situated under the tower (which is supported by four strong semicircular arches) ; it is small, and pewed like most other parish churches.

St. Albans. 263

The chancel has on the north side the magnificent monument of Abbot Ramridge, a very large and elegant structure, occupying all the space under one of the arches, and adorned with quatrefoils, arms, etc., and with the abbot's device — a ram having a collar round its neck, on which is the word ribgc. Opposite this is another beautiful erection, open on each side, and arched with stone, occupy- ing nearly as much space as Abbot Rarjiridge's tomb, but less lofty. This, I was informed, was erected by the Abbot John, of Wheat- hamstead, as a private chapel or (as I suppose) chantry. It has, however, very much the appearance of an altar-tomb ; and Mr. Gough, possessed, perhaps, with that idea, requested and obtained permission of the Rev. Mr. Nicholson, the incumbent of the living, to open the pavement. Nothing, however, was discovered to satisty his curiosity. On the pavement of this chancel is a lajge and singularly beautiful brass, having the figure of an abbot in his pontifical robes and mitre, and surrounded by saints, etc., in small niches. This commemorates the abbot Thomas De!amere, and was saved from the fury of Cromwell's soldiery by the prudence of the inhabitants, who in that dangerous period reversed its sides. A little to the north of this is another brass, having the figure of a knight in armour, but the inscription is gone ; it, however, commemorates Sir Anthony Grey. Near this is a third brass, having the figure of a monk, with a scroll proceeding from his mouth, and an inscription under his feet, to the memory of Brother Robert Banner, formerly a monk of this monastery. This chancel also contains some other remains of brasses, but too imperfect to be described. The altar- screen is, perhaps, one of the most beautiful in the kingdom. It is of stone, and composed chiefly of niches, something similar to that in New College Chapel, Oxford, erected from a design of Mr. Wyatt. Behind the screen is the presbytery, where the archdeacon holds his court, and which is also used as a vestry. It has on the south side a large and magnificent altar-tomb, erected to the memory of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, brother of Henry V. On the north side is a large wooden erection, open on the sides like a screen, and used by the monks to watch the shrine of St. Alban, at that time immensely rich ; and against the east wall are several stone coffins, at present entirely empty. In the year 1710, in digging a grave, a flight of stone steps was discovered leading to an arched stone vault, which contained the body of Duke Humphrey, enclosed in a leaden coffin, and preserved in a sort of pickle. The liquid has since dis- appeared, but the bones still remain ; and the coffin, being much injured by time, has been placed in a wooden shell. To satisfy the curiosity of travellers, a trap-door was placed over the stairs, which still affords an entrance to the vault. In this presbytery stood the shrine of St. Alban, which has, of course, completely vanished, but the place which it occupied is marked by some white stones in the

264 Hertfordshire.

pavement. At the upper end of the north aisle is Offa, King of Mercia, painted in his regal robes, with this inscription : " Fundator ecclesiae circiter, ann. 793." The lower part is erased by the damp. The north transept has two perfect brasses. One commemorates William Stradr, and Margaret, his wife; the other Maud Harris, both dated before the Reformation, with an elegant mural monument to the memory of Christopher Rawlinson, date 1733. The south transept has a large modern window, but, I believe, nothing else remarkable. The south aisle has, near the entrance of the choir, a very beautiful door, covered with a profusion of rich and delicate carving, and having on each side a large niche, which formerly most probably contained a statue. The whole is adorned with quatrefoils, the arms of France and England, of the abbey, etc.

This noble edifice is 350 feet in length from east to west, and 144 feet to the summit of the tower in altitude. It is principally roofed with wood, which, in the nave from the west window to the tower, is painted in square compartments, with tl)t in the midst of them. Beyond the tower the roof is arched, and painted with armorial bearings. Great part of the pavement is composed of stones formerly adorned with brasses, but they (excepting those already mentioned) have wholly disappeared.

Of the adjoining monastery, formerly spacious and magnificent in the extreme, are at present no remains, except a lew broken walls and a large gateway, all the other erections were barbarously destroyed by the mad frenzy of the Reformers ; and had it not been for the liberality of the inhabitants of the parish, who purchased the abbey- church of Edward VI. to render it parochial, that venerable structure would most probably have shared the same miserable fate. How much must the antiquary regret that many other venerable remains of antiquity were not saved from destruction by a similar liberality! The arms of the abbey, yet remaining in many parts of the church, were, Azure, a saltire gules.

H. S.

[1865, Part II., pp. 491-494-]

As far as we can gather from the notices given by Matthew Paris and the Survey of Edward VI., illustrated by later information, there was on the south side of the nave of St. Alban's a large " quadrant court." 150 feet square, having on its west side the new dormitory; on the east a slype, 29 fiet 6 inches by 9 feet n inches still remain- ing, and the chapter-house, built by Abbot Robert de Gorham; and on the south the refectory, with lavatories and a kitchen adjoining. The eastern alley was built by Abbot Robert, from the slype to the south side of the court, the northern portion being completed by Abbot Trumpington 1214-35; the north and west alleys were added by Abbot Roger 1260-90. Abbot Trumpington built, (i) a cloister between the chapter-house and St. Cuthbert's Chapel, rejuilt in the

St. Attan's. 265

reign of Edward III. ; (2) one of three sides, apparently for the guests, from the kitchen, one to the entrance of the regular cloister, another extending on the other side of it to the door of the guest- house, and the third alley from that doorway to the alley towards the tailors' shop, with a shrubbery in the centre; and (3) a cloister of four sides leading to the infirmary. This little cloister (of the infirmary), with chambers over it, adjoined the new dormitory, and at the other end abutted on the oriel (the porch to the principal guest-house, which stood over cellarage built by Abbot John of Hertford 1235-60), and on the other on the fratry or refectory. The new dormitory was built (over cellarage) by Abbot Trumpington on the west side, the stairs into the south nave aisle partly remaining, the former, or long dortor, having been, we may assume, on the east side, as the old monk's door opened into the south arm of the transept. Abbot Geoffrey, 1119-46, built, according to the usual arrangement, a hall and cnapel on the east for the infirmary; and also another hall, with the chamber allotted to the Queen. Abbot Robert, 1151-66. erected the royal parlour, with St. Nicholas' Chapel [? Guesthouse Chapel], the cloister in front of the chapter-house, the long stable, and bath house or laundry, and the granary and larder, wiih two upper rooms. The infirmary, as at Worcester and Durham, adjoined the dormitory, and occupied the vacant space alongside the western part of the nave opposite the great gate. Abbot Roger built a large house, the lower part forming the larder, and the upper floor the lodging of the abbot's servants. This great gateway, still existing, opened into a " quadrant court," about 400 feet square, and covering an acre of ground. On the south side was the king's granary, adjoining the old hall ; on the west side were the king's stables, and at the end the almonry; on the east side were other buildings. In the outer court was Hames' Gate. On the north of the transept was St. Andrew's Church, lor the use of the servants, and a great bell-tower still remaining. Towards the west of the base court were the grange and mill, and to the south the orchards, extending over ten acres, and near the ordnance orchard the barn and brewhouse. The sites of the abbot's, the bursar's, the cellarer's, and the prior's lodgings cannot be ascertained, or those of the subordinate officers.

The general arrangement of Durham and Worcester, which so strikingly resemble each other, may offer a clue to that of St. Alban's. There, eastward of the chapter-house, stood the prior's lodging, with the great guesten-hall and entrance porch or oriel (at St. Alban's westward of the great cloisters). On the west side of the church was the infirmary; the cellarer's lodging was on the west of the kitchen, which stood south-west of the refectory; and the kitchener's lodging was again south of the kitchen ; the almonry adjoined the great gate-house; and the bakehouse stood on the south side of the great

266 Hertfordshire.

court At Durham the prior's lodging and chapel stood on the south-east side of the great cloister; the bursar's chequer joined the cole-garth of the kitchen ; at the west end of the latter was the cellarer's chequer. The garners, after the suppression, formed the eighth and ninth prebendal houses, and the bakehouse was attached to the eleventh stall.

I have thus endeavoured to sketch a bold outline of the conventual arrangement, in order to illustrate the accompanying document, and also as far as possible rectify the erroneous plan laid down by Mr. Newcome. When shall we have a new edition of the "Monasticon," with all the additions which now could readily be made ?

Survey of the Scite of the Abbey of St. Alban's, 2 Edward VI. :

The fermory [infirmary] with the Chapel.

The new Ordnance and the Library.

The Longe Dormitory.

Thabbotts lodgings and the hall called thabbotts hall.

Thabbots Kitchin.

The Spicery and the surveying place between the abbots hall and his Kitchin.

The Burcers [Bursar's] and the cellarers lodgings.

The Old Hall.

The Quadrant Cloyster.

The Chapter Howse.

The lavatories in the said Cloyster.

The well house.

The Priors lodging with all the edifices belonging therto, and the walks about the Prior's orchard

The newe Dorter and the lodging both above and beneathe the same.

A little cloyster with certain chambers over the same cloisters adjoining to the said dorter, and abutting on the one end upon the Oryall,* and on the other part upon the frayter.

The offyce in the Laundry.

The office in the bakehouse and brewhouse and the boylynghouse.

The Convent Kychen.

The Oryell with one entry adjoining (timber 40% terne zos, stone 20s, pavyng tyle 6s 8d).

The Kitchener lodging adjoynyng to the Oryell.

The Fraitre.

A mudde wall belonging to the new ordinance! orchard, a mudde wall on the s. of the newe ordinance orchard, the mudde wall

* Palatio regio adjacet atrium nobilissimum in introitu quod porticus vel oriolum appellatur (" Matt. Par. Vit. Abb.," p. 142, ed. Wats).

t Thos. Albon, "Gustos novae ordinationis," 1451 (Newcome, 355).

6V. Attaris. 267

abowghte the launde and garden, with a lytle house adjoyning to the same.

A Barne and a brewhouse adjoyning to the same, situate between the barne reserved for the King's majestys stable and the ryver.

Marble Pase, by estimation iii*x fote, valued at 6s 8d, the whole valuation is 205'' 7s 4d.

The orchards and gardens, which were in the hands of Sir Francis Bryan, keeper of the site of the sd monastery, contain 10 acres, and 2 acres whereon the edifices do still remain, worth to us 66s 8d per ann.

The parcel underwritten to be reserved to the officers of the Kgs. stable.

A quadrant court, i acre.

On the south part in the sd court Garners called the King's Garnery adjoining the Old Hall.

Next to them Sir Andrew Dudley hath a lodging in the garden.

Alexander Zenzan, one of the Nites, has a lodging.

Mr. Palmer, one of the surveyors of the stable, hath a lodging.

A square gate house, called Hames gates, where Mr. Parker, one of the Queene .... lyeth.

On the west side of the sd Court are the Kgs. stables, and the end of which stables is the Purveyor's lodging called the Almery.

On the north part is the great gatehouse, where is the master of the heron's lodging ; in the lower part is the King's gaol for the liberty of St. Albans, covered with lead i o fother.

The Purveyor's lodgeyng.

At the east side of the sd court another lodging, where lieth Mr. Justice and Mr. Leonard, two of the Riders of the Kgs. house. (Add. M.S. 24,514, fol. 80-82.)

A few hints of the position of the ancient buildings may be gleaned from the Cottonian MSS. quoted in the " Monasticon." Abbot Wheat- hampstede, 1420-40, built the new infirmary chambers and chapel ; and a notable chamber, 95 feet long, for the abbot's hospitality at royal visits, and the library near it (ii. 242, 247).

Abbot Mote, who died 1400, built the Abbot's Chamber near the transept (p. 198), and Wheathampstede repaired a chamber between the Abbot's Chapel and hall, and a pentice, or gallery, leading to it (p. 242) from the hall, enlarging the study and restoring the clock chamber (p. 201 ; Newcome, p. 388). The "chamber" was improved 'by Abbot Heyworth ("Monast.," p.i99). Abbot Wallingford, 1326-34, laid the first stone of the new cloister, and the work of the church, from the wall of the Abbot's Chapel towards the cloister. De la Mote also rebuilt two parts of the cloister, with the carols, the library, and St. Nicholas' [? Guest-house] Chapel, under which was to have been the muniment chamber (p. 198 ; Newcome, p. 28 A Heyworth completed his works in the cloister (" Monast.," p. 199). Abbot de la

268 Hertfordshire.

Mare, 1350-96, built the water gate (destroyed 1772), the almonry gate, and the kitchen, and roofed the refectory (p. 198). The cloister was 129 feet square, each alley being 21 feet broad (p. 213).

The New Ordinance was the office of master of the works, founded 1429 (Newcome, 379)- Stubbard built the seats in the cloisters near the doors, either a bench-table, or seats for the Maunday (p. 316). The parlour opened upon the west alley of the cloister (p. 317). St. Cuthbcrt's altar adjoined the cloister door (p. 320).

I am. etc, MACKENZIE E. C. WALCOTT, B. D., F.S.A.

[1797, Part //.,/. 928.]

Let me give your readers some idea of the devastation made, in consequence of the tremendous storm which happened on the morn- ing of the 25th of September, in the abbey-church at St. Alban's.

On entering this venerable pile, soon after the torrents of rain had in part subsided, how was I struck with the awful scene which then presented itself to my view ! Many of the graves were opened, the monumental slabs and the pavement falling into the ground in every direction !

The drains near the north door having been stopped, the rain had made its way into the church, and caused the above disaster. Though the pavement still continued to give way wherever I turned, I could not resist the impulse to examine if any part of the main building had sustained the least injury. Upon strict observation, I found that the force of all the destruction wrought upon the pavement had centred round the pier of the arch next to the north-west pier of the great tower.

From my representing to the churchwardens my apprehensions for the safety of the building, and that it was absolutely necessary to clear round the invaded pier of the arch, they the next day complied with my request ; and it was found that the projecting foundation of the pier had sunk several inches in the centre out of its horizontal level.

I am sorry to say not any attention was paid to this dangerous appearance ; as, from its relative connection to the great tower, it was incumbent to have given it permanent security. It is not at all unlikely that on this circumstance depends the future preservation of the whole building — a building which claims universal admiration and should claim univen-al protection. Its high antiquity (being built almost entirely with the Roman bricks from Old Verulam), the singularity, beauty, and elegance of its several parts, the profuse display of the abilities of our ancient artists, are here to be seen in the most eminent degree ; and in every part are to be found memorials of the great and good of former times ; as are also numberless other objects, which, while they exist, give sanction to the truth of history ; deprived of which, the records of ancient times

St. Albaris. 269

would fade, the incredulous mind of the historic reader would turn from the unsupported tale, and all our boasted deeds of former glory be then no more. AN ARCHITECT.

[1819, Part I., p. 593.]

The accompanying plate, from an early drawing by your late ingenious correspondent, Mr. John Carter, exhibits a pleasing view of part of the nave and side-aisles of the Abbey Church of St. Alban, looking to the nonh-west ; a portion of the building which is thus noticed by Mr. Carter in his "Account of the Abbey Church/' pub- lished by the Society of Antiquaries :

'' The Saxon work (to the east or right hand of the plate) is in nine divisions westward from the centre tower, made out by piers worked on the first story into breaks ; the centre, or principal one, rises the whole height of the elevation ; the other breaks, ri j^ht and left, run into arches. In the aisle Pointed windows, with niullionsand tracery (work of the fifteenth century), have been inserted. The second story, once a gallery, but destroyed, has small piers and plain arches, which opened into the gallery. These arches have been filled up with common windows of the sixteenth century. The third story has its windows complete, except in the first division from the west, which has one in the style of those added at the gallery of communi- cation westwards.

"Taking the upright in its principal lines, exclusive of the window introductions in the first two stories, a plain and uniform grandeur is expressed, and the proportions of each part happily maintained. It may be allowed that the architecture here presented, by its near affinity to the Roman manner, is one of the earliest specimens of the labours of our Saxon architects, whether ecclesiastical or professional men, in that branch of science.

" The centre tower is also of Saxon work, and there are likewise vestiges of Saxon work eastward of it, where the choir was carried on in that mode, but destroyed for another introduced in the Pointed style.

" How far the original church extended westward cannot now be ascertained, but it is probable that it terminated nearly where the modern work begins. This consists of four divisions, of the Pointed order, bearing the style of the thirteenth century. Clusters of four columns, attached to an octangular pier, support the arches of the first story. The windows on the side aisle are obliterated. The gallery story, consisting of clusters of columns, support double arches. In the spandrils of the arches of the first story are small clusters of columns, rising from consoles, which indicate a support to the prin- cipal cluster of columns of the gallery. The third, or window story, has its piers set with columns and compartments. Through the thickness of these piers runs a gallery of communication. The

270 Hertfordshire.

windows are of the early simple Pointed form, without mullions or tracery." N. R. S.

[1832, Parti., p. ioo.]

The Abbey of St. Alban's is said to be in so ruinous a state that some part of the parapet has fallen,* and unless active exertions are used to create a fund for its repair (the parish being totally incom- petent to raise a sufficient sum of money), this matchless monument, admirable for the beauty and delicacy of its detail, and the sublimity of its design, will be numbered with the ruins which certainly adorn our country, but which are daily crumbling into dust. . . .

[1832, Part //., pp. 204, 205.]

During the public interest that prevails at present with respect to the ancient Abbey of St. Alban, permit me to offer to you and your readers the following curious recollections preserved by Ashmole in a paper contained in his MS. No. 1137, f. siK MEAA2.

" 26 Aug. 68. From ye relac'on of Mrs. Simpson.

" Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather by the mothers side to Mrs. Simpson of St. Albans, was 4 tymes Maior of St. Albans ; he died about 60 yeares since, being then about 103 years of age. t He lived when the Abbey of St. Albans flourished before the dissoluc'on ; and remembred most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, to the regiment of the house, the ceremonies in the church and grand processions, of all wch he would often discourse in his lyfe tyme.

" Among others — That in the great hall there was an ascent of 15 steps to the Abbott es table, vnto wch the Monkes brought vp the service in plate, and staying at every 5' step [where] was a lands place, on ev'ry of wch they sung a short hyinne. The Ab[b]ot usually sat alone in the midle of the table, and when any Noblemen or Embassadors or strangers of eminent quality came thither, they sat at his table towards the ends thereof.

"After the Monks had waited a while on the Abbot, they sat downe at two other tables placed on the sides of the hall, and had their service brought up by the Novices, who, when the Monkes had dyned, sat downe to their owne dinner.

* On the 3rd of February, about 7 a.m., a large portion of the wall of the upper battlement, on the south-west side, fell upon the roof below with such weight that it drove in the leads and timber, and everything in its way, into the souih aisle of the building. It fell in two masses, at an interval of five minutes, and so great was the concussion that the inhabitants of the neighbouring houses describe it as resembling the loudest thunder. Mr. Wyatt was employed about ten years since to inspect the abbey, when he reported that a sum exceeding ,£30,000 would be necessary effectually to repair this building, since which it has been getting worse, so that at the present lime a much larger sum than that would be required. The south transept has been for a considerable time considered in a dangerous state, and is now scarcely safe to be allowed to remain.

f He was, therefore, born about 1505, and died about 1608.

Sf. A Man's. 271

"This Mr. Shrimpton remembers, that when the newes came to St. Albons of Q. Maries death, the then Abbot, for greife, tooke his chamber, and dyed wthin a fortnight.

"He also rem'bers the hollow Image, erected neere S' Albons shrine, wherein one being placed to governe the wyres, the eyes would move, and head nodd, accords as he liked or disliked the offering; and that, being young, he had many tymes crept into the hollow p'te thereof.

" In the grand Processions through the Towne, where the Image of St. Albons was carried, it was vsually borne by 12 Monkes, and after it had been sett downe a while at the market cross, and the Monkes assaying to take it vp againe, they p'tended they could not stir it, and then the Abbot coming and laying his crosier upon the Image, (and using these wordes —Arise, arise, St. Albons arise, and get thee home to thy sanctuary !) it then forthwith yeilded to be borne by the Monkes.

" In the Abbey was a larg roome, having beddes set on either side for the receipt of strangers and pilgrims, where they had lodging and dyet for 3 dayes, without question made whence they came, or whether they went : but after that tyme, they staid not wthout rendring an account of both."

[1832, Part. II,, p. 389.]

No modern town would, in all probability, have arisen in imme- diate connection with the site of old Verulam — but its limits would have remained at this day like those of that curious contemporary relic Silchester, a mere boundary-hedge to the husbandman — had it not been for the memory of the courage and sufferings of Albanus, a Roman citizen and Christian martyr, who died for his unshaken devotion to the Christian faith, in the persecution of the church under Diocletian. . . . Albanus was the pupil of Amphibalus, who also suffered martyrdom ; and the fame of both, with some tradition of the place of their interment, had remained until the end of the ninth century, when the bones of St. Alban were disinterred by the Mercian monarch, Offa, under alleged miraculous guidance, and enshrined in the church of the monastery founded by him on the eminence about three hundred yards north of old Verulam. On the authority of Matthew Paris, the historian (who it were superfluous to say flourished in the thirteenth century, and was a monk of St. Alban's Abbey), we learn that the successive earlier abbots were exceedingly busy in ransacking the site of old Verulam for materials wherewith to construct the church of the monastery, which at first was but a slight and temporary building. Large heaps of Roman brick were collected for this purpose, and used by Paul, who succeeded to the abbacy in the year 1077, and a portion of whose work, con- sisting of the lofty arches and piers, entirely of Roman brick, which

272 Hertfordshire.

. . .

support the central towers, remains at this day an interesting confir- mation of Matthew Paris's account.

The Abbey Church of St. Alban's consists of a pile of building extending from east to west about 540 feet, the transepts from north to south 175 feet ; behind the high altar is a chapel of the Virgin, or Lady Chapel, erected at a somewhat later period than that at Sr. Saviour's, Southwark, but characterized in language applicable to both edifices as " a structure, the proportions of which are so just and beautiful, and its decorations display so much elegant simplicity, that it may be referred to as a specimen of pure and cultivated taste, and a model that would do credit to any age."*

The nave of the church is constructed for the greater part in the style of the thirteenth century; it has a very interesting painted ceiling of board, which was erected by Abbot Wheathampstead in 1428; this is divided into square compartments, in each of which are painted £ ,Jj ,§> encircled by eight Gothic converging arches ; the whole effect of the roof seen from the choir is exceedingly rich. It is, we understand (for we have not yet personally visited the spot), a long portion of the upper part of the south wall of this nave which has given way, fallen upon, and considerably damaged the roof of the adjoining aisle. An appeal, as we have seen, has been made to the public, soliciting their aid to effect the necessary repairs. We have too many recent instances on record of the prevalent feeling in similar maters to suppose that that appeal can be made in vain, and we hope at no distant day to see a sum of money set apart by Govern- ment in aid of the general support of edifices connected with the history of our country, with our national reputation for science, and with our religious faith. . . .

Yours, etc., A. J. K.

[1806, Part II., pp. 617, 618.]

For the benefit of modern repairers of our ancient churches, take the following account of St. Peter's Church at St. Alban's, which, though rebuilt about the time of Henry III., appears to have undergone considerable repairs and alterations, the most recent of which have been at the expense of about ^4,000 since the year 1803, when an Act of Parliament was obtained to empower certain trustees, appointed under the said Act, to borrow money to the above amount.

The tower having become extremely ruinous and in great danger of falling, had been previously taken down, and a general reparation of the whole structure was deemed necessary.

"All the expensive repairs and modern alterations of this fabric have probably originated from an order of vestry, made on April 20, 1756, in the following words : 'That the succeeding churchwardens

* Ntale's "Colleg. and Paroch. Churches," vol. i.

St. Albaris. 273

have the old belfry taken down, and the middle floor sunk as low as it can conveniently be to make another belfry.' To explain this it is necessary to observe that the original belfry was so low as to obstruct that perspective view of the chancel which the then rulers of the parish were desirous of obtaining, and therefore, under the order above stated, they had a new belfry erected, the floor of which is said to have been about 22 feet higher than the old floor. This answered the purpose of opening the view, but was soon dis- covered to have done essential injury to the building from violating the principles on which it had been originally constructed. The old belfry floor had rested against the four great piers which supported the tower, and were below of solid masonry ; yet it now appeared that the original builders had not carried them up solid so high as the place which the new floor was to rest upon, but had contented them- selves with an outside casing filled only with rubble. Under these circumstances, on the nth of May, 1785, the vestry resolved, 'That whereas the two piers (or part thereof) of the church tower next the south aisle is in a dangerous and ruinous condition,' the same be forth- with 'repaired.' For that purpose a carpenter in the parish was em- ployed, who introduced one of his own friends in the character of a surveyor ; these fit associates having undermined the piers of the tower — a heavy building 33 feet square — prepared to set them upon wooden legs, and accordingly dragged from London (where probably they had been lying upon the mud in the river Thames), thirty-six great blocks of Memel timber, which they set upright, nine in each pier, and then surrounded them with brickwork separately, and after- wards walled round and covered with plaster the four piers, so as to make them look like strong, massy columns. With similar incon- sideration the vestry, on the 6th of September, 1 786, granted permission to certain persons, who desired it, to add, at their own expense, two new triples to the eight bells already belonging to the church, all tending to increase the superincumbent weight.

"The amount of the expense wasted on this repair was .£2,790, and almost as soon as it was finished the parish seemed to be alarmed with apprehension of the consequence ; for so early as the 22nd of March, 1790, a vestry met to inspect the state of the four principal pillars, and the vicar having moved that Mr. Richard Norris, of Christ Hospital, should survey them immediately : he did so on the 24th of April following, and gave it as his ' opinion that so long as the timbers used in them remained sound, the tower might be safe ; but,' he adds, 'should they decay, I doubt the tower's standing, and am sorry to say that, Irom the appearance of some of them, I should fear they are proceeding to that state.' In the meantime the vicar and the archdeacon did all in their power to prevent mischief and promote peace, but in vain. Vestries were held continually ; one forbade the ringing of the bells ; the next rescinded the prohibition and ordered

VOL. XVII. 1 8

274 Hertfordshire.

it. More surveyors were called in, of whom some said that the timbers were ' perfectly sound, and would be capable of supporting the tower for at least seven years to come ;' others declared they were decaying, till at length Mr. James Lewis, of Christ's Hospital, having made a fair and unbiassed report of the state of things, the parish were persuaded to take down the tower, after they had gone on for years, sometimes using the church, and at other times having it shut up. To close the scene, on the morning of Saturday, the 2ist of November, 1801 (service being at that time performed every Sunday) the whole floor of the belfry fell at once into the body of the church, and crushed several of the pews to pieces, a beam that supported the floor, and rested on the piers, having broken off, being quite rotten. This event obliged the parish to apply to Parliament for an Act to enable them to rebuild the tower and chancel upon a reduced scale, and more effectually to repair the church ; this Act passed on the 24th of March, 1803. The Bishop of Ely, to whom the chancel belonged, agreed to its being made smaller, and with his lessees of the great tithes of the rectory handsomely contributed towards the expense, on condition that the parish should secure to the appropriator the site of the old chancel and maintain the new one for the time to come. The architect appointed to effect the recent alterations was Mr. Robert Chapman, of Wormwood Street, London."* D. H.

[1853, Parti., p. 617.]

In Foxe's account of the martyrdom at St. Alban's of George Tankerfield, A.D. 1555, is the following passage: "The sheriffs brought Geo. Tankerfield to the place where he should suffer, which was called Romeland, being a green place near to the west end of the Abby Church " (" Acts and Mon.," iii. 330, edit. 1688).

This piece of ground, which still retains its name, forms an irregular triangle about three acres in extent, immediately adjacent to the still remaining gateway of the monastery. It is bounded on the east and north sides by houses, some of very ancient date, and a mansion called Romeland House, which appears to have been pulled down about a century since, formerly stood at its western extremity. It retained its character of a " green place" till about 1840, when the principal part of it was consecrated as an additional burial-ground for the parish of St. Alban.

It is remarkable that this Romeland at St. Alban's bears the same relative position to the abbey there, as the Romeland, mentioned in your number for this month by Mr. Corner, has to the Abbey of Waltham. Yours, etc., GERARD W. LYDEKKER.

* "Beauties of England and Wales," vol. vii., p. 97.

St. Albaris. 275

[1845, Part 7., //. 39-45-]

Gorhambury derived its name from the family of Robert de Gorham, who was elected Abbot of St. Alban's in 1151, and who alienated from the Church this manor (previously called Westwick) in favour of his secular relatives. It was reunited by purchase to the possessions of the abbey in 1389.

The foundations of the monastic manor-house, including those of a large round tower, may still be traced in dry summers. It was situated in front of the modern house, lower down the hill, and com- manding a good view of the wood.*

After the dissolution of monasteries, the manor was granted by the Crown to Ralph Rowlet, Esq., afterwards knighted, and sold by his grandson, Ralph Maynard, Esq., to Sir Nicholas Bacon, the Lord Keeper.

Sir Nicholas Bacon commenced erecting a new mansion at Gorhambury on March i, 1363. Among the papers of his son Anthony, in the library at Lambeth Palace, is one containing the following particulars :

"A Brief of the whole charges bestowed upon the building of Gorhambury, between the years 1563 and the last day of September, 1568, viz., by the space of five years and fourteen days :

9 o

1564 461 7 i

1565 177 6 7-J

1566 568 3 9

1567 171 8 8*

1568 204 i 6 8

[Total .£1898 ii gf]

" Memorandum. There is not accounted for in this brief any Timber felled in the Lord Keeper's woods or otherwise ; neither is there valued any freestone from the abbey of St. Alban's, lime, sand; nor the profits that might have accrued of burning and making of brick within the time mentioned."

Sir Nicholas Bacon's building consisted of a quadrangle of about 70 feet square, in the centre of which was the entrance, and on each side small turrets. The door of entry led through a cloister into a court, in which, facing the entrance, was a porch of Roman archi- tecture, which still exists in ruin, and is represented in the accom- panying plate. Over the arch, engraved on gray marble, were the following lines, written by Sir Nicholas himself :

* See a plan, showing the situations of the four successive mansions at Gorham- bury, in the " History of Gorhambury," by the Hon. Charlotte Grimston, pro- duced about the year 1826 (see Martin's "Catalogue of Privately Printed Books," p. 236).

18— 2

276 Hertfordshire.

" HJEC CUM PERFECIT NICOLAUS TECTA BACONUS,

ELIZABETH REGNI LUSTRA FUERE DUO ; FACTUS EQUES, MAGNI CUSTOS FUIT IPSE SIGILLI, GLORIA SIT SOLI TOTA TRIBUTA DEO.

MEDIOCRIA FIRMA."

From the porch an ascent of four or five steps led to the upper end of the hall. In the centre of the lower end was a door of carved oak, which led to a suite of apartments occupying the left hand or western side of the quadrangle, and consisting of an eating-room, a small ante-chamber, and a drawing-room. On the opposite side were several other rooms, and a small hall called the armour hall. Behind the hall was a second court, surrounded by the offices.

The gallery was panelled with oak, gilt in compartments, with Latin inscriptions over each. In the Royal Collection of MSS. at the British Museum (17 A xxm.) is a volume containing copies of these inscriptions, beautifully written on fourteen oblong leaves of vellum, in gold letters upon various coloured grounds. The first page contains a very beautiful illumination of the arms of Joanna Lady Lumley,* the heiress of the Earls of Arundel, with this super- scription :

" Syr Nicholas Bacon Knyghte to his very good larlye the Ladye Lumley sendeth this."

At the head of the next page is the following title :

" Sentences painted in the Lorde Kepars Gallery at Gorhambury, and selected by him owt of divers authors, and sent to the good Ladye Lumley at her desire."

The sentences themselves, which are thirty-seven in number, and each bearing a title, as DE SUMMO BONO, DE AMBITIONE, are tran- scribed in Miss Grimston's book ; and we believe facsimiles of some of them have been published by Mr. Henry Shaw, F.S.A.

The two following are specimens, and they are given because they were omitted (no doubt accidentally) by Miss Grimston : "DE AMICITIA. [i.]

" In amico admonendo, melius est successum, quam fidem deesse. Omnia cum amico delibera : sed de ipso, prius."

"DE AMORE. [i.]

"Amor, insana amicitia : illius affectus : istius ratio, causa : at ea sola amicitia durat, cui virtus basis est."

Over a gate leading into the orchard, which had a garden on one side and a wilderness on the other, under the statue of Orpheus, stood these verses :

" Horrida nuper eram aspectu latebrjeque ferarum,

Ruricolis tantum numinibusque locus. Edomitor fausto hue dum forte supervenit Orpheus, Ulterius qui me non sinit esse rudem ;

* Some notices of the literary pursuits of Joanna Lady Lumley will be found in the GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE, vol. ciii., ii., 495.

I

Si. A Mans. 277

Convocat, avulsis virgulta virentia truncis,

Et sedem qua: vel Diis placuisse potest. Sicque mei cultor, sic est mihi cultus et Orpheus :

Floreat O poster cultus amorque diu !"

In the orchard was a little banqueting-house, adorned with great curiosity, having the liberal arts beautifully depicted on its walls; over them the pictures of such learned men as had excelled in each, and under them verses expressive of the benefits derived from the study of them. These verses, and the names of those whose pictures were there placed, follow :

"GRAMMAR.

" Lex sum sermonis, linguarum regula certa, Qui me non didicit cjetera nulla petal." DONATUS, LILLY, SERVIUS, and PRISCIAN.

ARITHMETIC.

" Ingenium exacuo, numerorum arcana recludo, Qui numeros didicit quid didicisse nequit." STIFELIUS, BUD^EUS, PYTHAGORAS.

LOGIC.

"Divide multiplices, res explanoque latentes, Vera exquiro, falsa arguo, cuncta prol>o. " ARISTOTLE, RODOLPH, PORPHYRY, SETON.

MUSIC.

" Mitigo moerores, et acerbas lenio curas, Gestiat ut placidis mens hilarata sonis." ARIAN, TERPANDER, ORPHEUS.

RHETORIC. " Me duce splendescit, gratis prudentia verbis,

Jamque ornata nitet quae fuit ante rudis." CICERO, ISOCRATES, DEMOSTHENES, QUINTILIAN.

GEOMETRY. " Corpora describo rerum, et quo singula pacto

Apte sunt formis appropriata suis." ARCHIMIDES, EUCLID, STRABO, APOLI.ONIUS.

ASTROLOGY. " Astrorum lustrans cursus viresque potentes,

Elicio miris fata futura modis." REGIOMONTANUS, HALY, COPERNICUS, PTOLEMY.

From the paper already inserted, it has been shown that the house was not finished until 1568. Four years atter, as is supposed, it received its first visit from Queen Elizabeth. Her intention of EO doing is recorded by the following letter* of the Lord Keeper to the Lord Treasurer :f

* The original is in MS. Linsd., 14.

t The Queen came to Goihambury from the Lord Treasurer's own mansion at

278 Hertfordshire.

" After my hartie comendacions. Understanding by comen speche that the Quenes Matie meanes to come to my howse, And knowyng no certentie of the tyme of her comyng nor of her aboade, I have thowght good to praye you that this bearer my servaunt might under- stand what you knowe therein, And yf it be trewe, Then that I myght understond yor advise what you thinke to be the best waye for me to deale in this matter. For, in very deede, no man is more rawe in suche a matter then my selfe. And thus wisshing to yor L. as to my selfe, I leave any further to trouble you at this tyme. From my howse at Gorhamburie this xijth of Julij, 1572.

" Yor L. assured " N. BACO, C. S."

The date is altered from the Xth to the xijth, and the Lord Keeper has added to the letter, which was written by his secretary, the following hasty postscript :

" I have wrete thys bycause I wolde gladly take y* cours y' myght best pleas hur Matie, wc° I knowe not how better to understond then by yr help.

Addressed, " To my very good L. the L. of Burghley."

No particulars of the Queen's entertainment on this occasion are preserved, except the remark which her Majesty made on first survey- ing the mansion. It appears to have been less than she expected, or than many others of the aspiring structures of that magnificent era in domestic architecture. So she said, " My Lord Keeper, you have made your house too little for you." He replied, with the character- istic humility of one whose motto was MEDIOCRIA FIRMA : " Not so, Madam, but your Majesty has made me too big for my house."

The Queen was again at Gorhambury in 1573-74, her charter to the town of Thetford being dated at Gorhambury, March 1 2, in the sixteenth year of her reign.

Previously to the Queen's next visit the Lord Keeper had com- plied with her suggestion. He erected for her reception a gallery, 120 feet in length and 18 in breadth, but its materials were only latli and plaster. At either end was a small apartment Under the whole were cloisters, in the centre of which (in a niche) was a statue of King Henry VIII. cut in stone, with gilt armour, and at the upper end were busts of Sir Nicholas and his second wife inserted in the wall. From the antechamber, which communicated with the gallery, were two doors : one on the left intended for common use, the other on the right for her Majesty to enter ; and after her departure

Theobalds. On her visits to that celebrated place, which, in the time of her successor, became a royal palace (see our vol. iri,, p. 260). A view of Theobalds was given in vol. v., p. 147.

St. A Man's. 279

Sir Nicholas, with the refined flattery of the times, caused that door to be closed, that no other step might pass the same threshhold.

The visit took place from Saturday, May 18, 1577,10 the following Wednesday, and this account of its expenses is preserved in the Lambeth Library :

" The Charges expended at Gorhambury by reason of her Matie comynge thither on Saturday the xviijth of Maye, 1577, before supper, and contynewinge untill Wednesday after dynner followinge, warranted by a booke of particulars : —

£ •• d. Pantry and Pastry. — First for wheatt in the Pantry and

Pastry - 47 I2 6

Buttery. — Item in beare and ale - - 26 16 8

Cellar. — Item in wyne of all kyndes - - 57 5 8

Ewry and Chaundry. — Item in cotton-lightes and in

quarriers, torches, and mertrezes - -15181

Kytchen.— Item, in beef, 8 oxen, £51 35. ?d. In Mutton, 60 carcases, ^27. In Veales, 18 carcases, £9 6s. 3d. In Lambs, 34 carcases, ^7 155. 4d. In Kids, sos. - - 77 15 2

Achates* in Fowle. — Item, Capons of all kinds, 206, ;£i6 55. 4d. Pullets of all kindes, 2is. Chekins, 31 dozen and 8, £6 6s. 8d. Geese, 10 dozen, £6 125. Herrons, 12 dozen and 8, .^26 133. 4d. Bitters, 8 dozen and 10, ^17 45. 2d. Ducklings, 12 dozen, £3 135. Pigeons, 19 dozen and 7, 423. 8d. Birds of the neast, 18 dozen and 7, i8s. ?d. Godwittes, 2 dozen, ^4. Dotterells, 14, 95. 4d. Shovelers, 13, 435. 4d. Fezaunts, 2 dozen and 5, ^3 123. 6d. Pertriches, 14, us. 8d. Quails, 16 dozen and 9, £8 75. 6d Mayechickes, 17 dozen, ^3 8s. Mal- lerds, 23, 155. 4d. Teales, 12, 45. Larkes, 3 dozen and 9, 25. 6d. Curlewes, 3, 4s. Knots, one dozen, 43. - - 105 7 ii

Achates in Fyshe.— Item, for Sea Fyshe of all kindes, ^£23 175. lod. For Freshe-water Fyshe of all kindes, ^13 os. 8d. - 36 18 6

Achates, viz. — In Gammons of Bacon, baked and boyled, 303. Dryed Tonges, 24, i6s. Pigges, 26, 373. Bacon in Flitches, us. Neates Tongues, 8, 8s. Sheeps Tonges, 6d. Cowes Udders, i2d. Calves Feet, 2S. Hare, i, i6d. Rabbetes, 41 dozen and 9, jC-j 95 6d. Butter, ^8 145. 8d. Eggs, 573. Creame, 505. Sd. Milke, 6d. Frutte, 335. gd. - - 28 12 n

* Provisions purchased, in distinction to those already in the stores of the Household.

2 8o Hertfordsh ire.

£ s. <i.

Saliery. — Item, in Vinegre and Verges - - - 3 12 o

Spicery. — Item, in Spice of all sorts - - 27 6 i

Confectionary. — Item, in Banquetting Stuff - -1906

Wood-yarde. — Item, in Woode - - 8 i 8

Cookhouse. — Item, in Cooles - - 16 o o

Necessaries, Heroes, Flowers, and Artichokes.— Item, in

Necessaryes, .£18 55. pd. In Herbes, Flowets, and

Artichokes, £6 155. lod. - 25 i 7

Rewards. — Item, in Rewards for Presents,* ^£19 i6s.

In Rewards for Officers of the Queen, ;£i 2 53.- - 22 i o Cariedge. — Item, in Cariedges from London to Gorham-

bury, and from Gorhambury backe againe to London 10 o o Item, to an Upholster for things hired - -1158

Item, to them of the Revells - - - 20 o o

Item, to the Cookes of London for their Wages - - 12 o o Item, to Laborers for their Wages - i 8 8

Item, for fcedinge of Fowl - -060

Item, for alteration of thinges beside the Stuff - -7100 Item, for Loss of Pewter, _^6 153. 6d. For loss m

Naperye, 405. 6d. - 8160

Summa totalis of all Expences, besides a Cupp pre- sented to the Queenes Majestic - 577 6 7^ Besides 25 Bucks and 2 Stagges, etc."

In acknowledgment of this entertainment, it is said that the Lord Keeper received from the Queen that portrait of her by Hilliard which is still in the collection at the present mansion.

Sir Nicholas Bacon, on his death in 1579, devised Gorhambury to the elder son of his second marriage, Anthony Bacon, Esq., a man of considerable political talents, but who made an unfortunate choice in attaching himself to the party of the Earl of Essex. He resided with that nobleman at Essex House in the Strand in the capacity of secretary, and died there, a few months after the loss of his patron, in the year 1601. Gorhambury had in the meantime been inhabited by Lady Bacon, the widow of the Lord Keeper. It was left by Anthony, who died unmarried, to his brother Francis, afterwards Viscount St. Albans.

Among the other scientific studies of that illustrious philosopher, architecture was one ;t and, soon after he became possessed of

* When the Queen visited any great house, its owner generally received presents of provisions from all his neighbours. See the list of those sent in to Lord Elles- mere at Harefield, Middlesex, in 1602, in the " Egerton Papers," published by the Camden Society, p. 350.

t Miss Grini!,ton has included in her volume a copy of Bacon's " Essay on Building," as he is supposed in it to have partly given a description of his own

St. Albaris. 281

Gorhambury, he amused his leisure hours by some visionary plans for restoring the ancient city of Verulam ; but it does not appear that he proceeded further in that scheme than as a speculation, and subject of conversation for the amusement of his friends. His attention was more urgently required for the repair of Gorhambury, which had fallen into considerable decay since the death of his father. Of his works there an interesting account is given by Aubrey, who visited Gorhambury in 1656, but who appears to have assigned indis- criminately every feature to the son, forgetting that his father, Sir Nicholas, had been the original builder and adorner of the place :

" In the Portico, which fronts the south, to every arch, and as big as the arch, are drawn by an excellent hand (but the mischief of it is, in water-colours) curious pictures, all emblematical, with mottos under each : for example, one I remember, a ship tossed in a storm, has the motto, ALTER ERIT TUM TIPHYS.

" Over this Portico is a stately Gallery, whose glass-windows are all painted, and every pane with several figures of beasts, birds, or flowers :* perhaps his Lordship t might use them as topics for local memory. The windows look into the garden ; the side opposite to them DO window, but is hung all with pictures at length, as of King James, his Lordship, and several illustrious persons of his time. At the end you enter is no window ; but there is a very large picture. In the middle on a rock in the sea stands King James in armour, with his regal ornaments ; on his right hand stands (but whether or no on a rock I have forgot) King Henry 4th of France, in armour ; and on his left hand the King of Spain in like manner. These figures are (at least) as big as the life : they were done only with umber and shell gold, and the shadowed umber as in the figures of the Gods on the doors of Verulam House [which is noticed here- after]. The roof of this Gallery is semi-cylindrical, and painted by the same hand. In the Hall is a large story very well painted of the Feasts of Gods ; where Mars is caught in a net by Vulcan. On the wall, over the chimney, is painted an oak, with acorns falling from it: the motto NISI QVID POTIVS. And on the wall over the table is painted Ceres teaching the sowing of corn, the motto MONITI MELIORA.

"The Garden is large, which was (no doubt) rarely planted and kept in his Lordship's time. Here is a handsome door which opens into Oak Wood : over the door in golden letters on blue six verses. The oaks of this wood are very great and shady. His Lordship

house at Gorhambury, accompanying it, however, with the remark that the re- semblance is very trifling, the house in the essay being of larger and loftier dimensions.

* Miss Grimston gives drawings of the painted glass.

t J.e., Visconnt St. Albans. Aubrey refers all the ornaments to his taste: and he certainly appears to have added materially to those of the original building.

282 Hertfordshire.

much delighted himself here :* under every tree he planted some fine flower, some whereof are their still, viz. paeonies, tulips. From this wood a door opens into a place as big as an ordinary park, the west part whereof is coppice wood ; where are walks cut out as straight as a line, and broad enough for a coach, a quarter of a mile long or better. Here his Lordship much meditated, his servant Mr. Bushell attending him with his pen and ink, to set down his present notions.

" The east of this park, which extends to Verulam House, was in his Lordship's prosperity a paradise, now a large ploughed field. It consisted of several parts ; some thickets of plum trees, with delicate walks, some raspberries. Here was all manner of fruit trees that would grow in England, and a great number of choice forest trees, as the whittit tree, sorbe, cervice, etc. The walks, both in the coppices and other boscages, were most ingeniously designed. At several good views were erected elegant summer-houses, well built of Roman architecture, well wainscoted and ceiled, yet standing, but defaced."

" Verulam House " was a summer residence which Lord Bacon was induced to erect near the fishponds, at the north-eastern extremity of the park, on account of the deficiency of water at Gorhambury, saying that, " If the water could not be brought to the 1 ouse, he would bring the house to the water." It no longer exists, but the description which Aubrey has preserved of it will be found very curious and interesting :

" It was the most ingeniously contrived little Pile that ever I saw. (I am sorry that I measured not the front and breadth ; but I little suspected it would be pulled down for the sake of the materials.) No question but his Lordship was the chiefest architect ; but he had for his assistant a favourite of his (a St. Alban's man), Mr. Dobson, who was his Lordship's right hand, a very ingenious person (Master of the Alienation Office), but he spending his estate luxuriously, necessity forced his son William Dobson to be the most excellent Painter that England hath yet bred.

" This house did not cost less than nine or ten thousand the building. There were good chimney-pieces ; the rooms very loftie, and were very well wainscoted. There were two bathing-rooms or stuffes,! whither his Lordship retired of afternoons as he saw cause. The tunnells of the chimneys were carried into the middle of the house, and round about them were seats. The top of the house was well leaded. From the leads was a lovely prospect to the Ponds, which were opposite to the north-east side of the house, and were on

* In his pecuniary distress, Lord St. Albans sold all the property attached to Gorhambury except the Park and Manor, saying (with a figure adopted from his favourite trees) "he would top the branches to save the trunk." But when it was suggested to him to sell the Oak Wood itself, he replied that he would not part with his feathers.

t Withy? \ I.e., stoves.

SV. Albatis. 283

the other side of the stately walke of trees that leads to Gorhambury House, and also over that long walke of trees whose topps afford a most pleasant variegated verdure resembling the works in Irish stitch. The Kitchen, Larder, Cellar, etc., are under ground. In the middle of this house was a delicate staire-case of wood, which was curiously carved, and on the posts of every interstice was some prettie figure, as of a grave divine with his book and spectacles, a mendicant friar, etc., not one thing twice. Mem. On the doors of the upper storie on the outside (which were painted dark umber) were figures of the gods of the Gentiles, viz., on the south dore ad storie was Apollo, on another Jupiter with his thunder-bolt, and bigger than the life, and done by an excellent hand; the heightnings were of hatchings of gold, which when the sun shown on them made a glorious shew. Mem. The upper part of the uppermost door on the east side had inserted into it a large looking-glass, with which the stranger was very gratefully deceived : for, after he had been entertained a pretty while with the prospects of the Ponds, Walkes, and country which the dore faced, when you were about to return into the room, one would have sworn primo intuitu that he had beheld another prospect through the house, for as soon as the stranger was landed on the balconie the concierge that shewed the house would shut the doore to putt this fallacy on him with the looking-glasse.

" This was his Lordship's summer-house ; for he says, one should have seats for Summer and Winter, as well as cloathes.

" From hence to Gorhambury is about a little mile, the way easily ascending, hardly so acclive as a desk. From hence to Gorhambury in a straite line lead three parallel walkes : in the middlemost three coaches may passe abreast ; in the wing walkes two. They consist of severall stately trees of the like growth and heigM : viz., elme, chesnut, beach, hornebeame, Spanish ash, cervice-tree, etc., whose topps doe afforde from the walke on the house the finest shew that I have seen, and I saw it about Michaelmas, at which time of the yeare the colours of leaves are most varied.

"The figures of the Ponds were thus \here probably was a -plan in the MS.\. They were pitched at the bottoms with pebbles of severall colours, which were workt into severall figures, as of fishes, etc., which in his Lordship's time were plainely to be seen through the cleare water, now overgrown with flagges and rushes. If a poor bodie had brought his Lordship halfe a dozen pebbles of a curious colour, he would give them a shilling, so curious was he in perfecting his Fishponds, which I guess doe contain four acres. In the middle of the middlemost pond, in the Island, is a curious Banquetting- house of Roman architecture, paved with black and white marble, covered with Cornish slate, and neatly wainscoted."

Gorhambury was left by Lord Bacon to his faithful friend Sir Thomas Meautys, who had married Anne, the daughter and heiress

284 Hertfordshire.

of his half-brother, Sir Nicholas Bacon, of Culford, Suffolk. The same lady was married secondly to Sir Harbottle Grimston, and thus Gorhambury came into the possession of the family which now enjoys the title of Earl of Verulam. The old house continued to be occupied until about sixty years ago, when the present mansion was built on a new site from the designs of Sir Robert Taylor ; and a view of it as it appeared shortly before it was relinquished will be found in Pennant's " Tour from London to Chester," pi. x., and in Nichols's " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth."

Sawbridgeworth.

[1840, Part I-, pp. 140-142.]

In the Hertfordshire volume of the "Beauties of England and Wales," written by Mr. E. W. Brayley, and published in 1806, occurs the following passage in a description of the church of Sawbridge- worth :

"The monuments are numerous, and among them are some very fine ancient brasses. Among the latter, in a small chantry or chapel connected with the south aisle, are two full-length figures, represented as completely emaciated, and in winding sheets. These are extremely well drawn, and appear by the arms to be of the family of the Plan- tagenets. Here also are full-length brasses of a knight and his lady, with the same arms ; and in the same chapel is a tomb and curious brasses of the Leventhorps."*

Several years after, in 1822, the same suggestion was still more fully advanced by Mr. Moule, in his "Bibltotheca Heraldica." That gentleman, when noticing Sandford's "Genealogical History of the Kings of England," at p. 270 of his Catalogue, took occasion to make the following remarks:

" It may not be considered foreign to the subject to describe a very finely-executed monumental slab, near the east end of the south aisle of the church at Sawbridgeworth, in Hertfordshire, supposed to com- memorate a branch of the Plantagenet family, but which, it is very singular, has not been noticed by Sandford, Stebbing, Chauncey, or Salmon. It is inlaid with brass, representing the figures of a knight and a lady, the knight in plate armour, his feet resting on a grey- hound. At the upper corner of the marble over his head is the arms of Old France and England, quarterly. The lady, whose head is covered by a coif, and her neck bare, is clad in a loose robe and mantle. At her feet is a little dog, and on the upper part of the slab over her head is the arms of England, with a label of France as borne l»y the ancient Earls of Lancaster. The date of the monument may be assigned to the latter end of the fourteenth, or to the beginning of the fifteenth, century, by the mode of bearing the arms and the costume of the figures."

* " Beauties of England and Wales," vol. vii., p. 217.

Sawbridgeworth. 285

A third time, in Neale's " Churches," printed in 1824, the same story is repeated in nearly the same words as have been last quoted.

The conjecture advanced is so bold a flight, in a genealogical view, that it will be allowed to be high time to check it, if founded on a misapprehension ; and although the county historian, Mr. Clutterbuck, has not joined in its support, he may be censured for having, on the other hand, passed over these certainly remarkable memorials without any special notice. The means of illustrating the circumstance were completely within his reach, but it was not his general custom to enter into similar minutiae.

The books in which the monuments in question have been described, are, besides those already cited, Weever's " Funerall Monu- ments," p. 549; Chauncey's "Hertfordshire," p. 178; Cough's "Sepulchral Monuments," vol. ii., p. 104; Clutterbuck's "Hertford- shire," vol. iii., p. 217.

Weever gives the inscriptions only, without the arms, and Chauncey has merely copied Weever. Mr. Cough, after quoting Weever, has added a description of the arms, rightly conjecturing the inscriptions (given in Weever, but now lost) might have belonged to the same tombs ; but his description is not quite correct. Lastly, Mr. Clutter- buck has described the stones in their present state, and the arms, but without adding the epitaphs, which he allows to slumber in the pages of his predecessor.

A MS. in the Harleian collection, No. 4,944, removes any doubt of the original position of the brass plates, and supplies additional par- ticulars of the arms. The earliest memorial of the two, that of the figure in armour (not a knight) and his lady, was formerly designated by the following epitaph :

"$)it ia«nt Joh'ca Jrbenthorp ^.rnitgw <int abijt xxbti0 ^Raij 31° ,JH««xxxnj tt ^attcnmi to.xor tins put obijt b ©ctobria ,|H.t«f..xxxj qufltum

amm.tb' propidctnr ocuss. Jlmen."

At the foot of the slab were two shields, now lost : one bore the arms of Leventhorp — viz., argent, a bend gobonated, gules and sable, between two cotises of the second ; the other, argent, a fesse between three fleurs-de-lis, for Twychet. At the head of the slab still remain the two royal coats — (i) France and England, quarterly ; (2) England, with a label of France.

By the side of this stone is another, inlaid with two figures in winding-sheets. The inscription to this is also lost, but is here supplied from the MS. before referred to :

"2$ic iactnt Joh'ta JJtbfttthoqj arwifltr qtxi obijt nltimo bit JJaij Jl0 JJwcc.bobnij ft Johanna bxor tins par abijt xxtx jUguaii J&ceee.l»amij quorum animabtts proprictur itus. Jlnun."

At the head of the stone on the left side is a shield bearing Old

286 Hertfordshire.

France* and England quarterly, with a label of three points azure. The shield on the right side, if yet remaining, is concealed by a pew ; it appears from the MS. to be the same as the other, but without the label. At foot are two shields — (i) Leventhorp, with a crescent for

difference, quartering argent, a chevron in chief a label of

three points .... and a mullet for difference ; (2) Leventhorp quartering Twychet. It should be remarked that Weever's version of the last inscription gives the date of the lady's death 1448, instead of 1488. The prior date accords much more nearly with the style of execution, which is very superior to the usual style of the time of Henry VII., to which the latter date would assign it. The figures are drawn emaciated as in death ; the eyes are closed, and the bodies wrapped each in a shroud, the folds of which are beautifully disposed; and in their hands they hold a heart, by which was typified the devo- tion of the soul to God.

And now for an explanation of the imaginary mystery of the appear- ance of the royal arms. This is at once removed when we find that John Leventhorp was a highly-trusted servant of the house of Lan- caster, f He appears in its employ in the very first year of Henry IV., \ and he was afterwards one of the executors named in the will of Henry V. The manor of Shingey itself, which connected him with the parish of Sawbridgeworth, was a parcel of the Duchy of Lan- caster ; and Chauncey says that he came to settle there, from Leven- thorp, in the West Riding of Yorkshire, about 15 Richard II. He was one of the knights in Parliament for the county of Hertford in i and 3 Henry V. and i Henry VI. His wife was Katharine, daughter and heiress of Twychet.

His son, John Leventhorp, Esq., represented in the second brass, received from Henry VI. a grant for a market at Sawbridgeworth, and a license to inclose 520 acres for a park. He married Joan Barring-

* That is, Semee of fleurs-de-lis. Mr. Moule states this to be the bearing on (he other stone ; but that is not ihe case. The fleurs-de-lis are usually reduced to three in and after the reign of Henry V. when the arms of France are so exhibited on the Great Seal for the first time.

t It was customary to place the royal arms on the tombs of persons who had borne office under the Crown. Three examples of the time of Richard II. have been enumerated in the GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE for last September, p. 235. The three lions of England occur with the brass of Sir John Cassey, Chief Baron of the Exchequer, ob. 1400, in Deerhurst Church, Gloucestershire ; of which there is an engraving by Mr. Lysons. On the brass at Balsham, Cambridgeshire, of which there is an engraving by Mr. Lysons. On the brass at Balsham, Cam- bridgeshire, of John Sleford, Canon of Wells and Ripon, and Rector of Balsham, who was Keeper of the Wardrobe to Edward III., ob. 1401, are shields of Old France and England quarterly, and of the same impaling Hainault, for Queen Philippa; as, on the slab of Sir Simon Felbrigge, K.G., are shields of King Richard II. and of Queen Anne (see Cotman's "Norfolk Brasses").

J " De daubus Litteris Patentibus.de Sigillo Ducatus Lancastrian, factis Johanni Leven thorp, irrotulatis. Michaelis Recorda I Hen. IV., rot. 15.' —Jones's " Index to the Exchequer Records," Memoranda.

Sawbridgcworth. 287

ton, and th"y were the progenitors of a family which continued at Shingey Hall until the reign of Charles II. Sir John Leventhorp was created a baronet* in 1622, and the heiress of the race was married to John Coke, Esq., of Melbourne, co. .Derby.

My attention was first drawn to the errors on this subject in an authentic account of these monuments derived from personal inspec- tion (with a reference to the Harleian MS., which has placed their identity beyond dispute), transmitted to me by Mr. L. A. B. Waller, who is forming a collection of sepulchral brasses, and has recently exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries various reduced drawings of these relics of ancient art, which excited universal admiration for their fidelity and beauty. J. G. N.

Therfield.

[1786, Part II., pp. 832-836.]

Having lately visited the church of Therfield in Hertfordshire, about three miles south-west from Royston, I send you the following notices of two persons who have lately made some figure in your useful Miscellany. (See vol. liv., pp. 477 and 759, and vol. lv., pp. 25, 96, 281.)

On the south side of Therfield Church, in the yard, on a raised base, is a square stone ending in a point. On the east side is this inscription, on a tablet of black marble :

I.

" To the memory of Sir BARNARD TURNER, Knight, Alderman and Sheriff of London and Middlesex, Major of the Honourable Artillery Company, and Member of Parliament for the Borough of Southwark, who signalized his early years in the naval service of his country, and became eminently distinguished in social and civil life, by unremitted activity and undaunted courage, unshaken integrity and firmness as a Magistrate, spirited support of order aud decency in the execution of justice, humane attention to the distresses of the wretched, and disinterested ardour for the public good, merited and adorned that dignity and those important stations to which his Sovereign and Fellow-Citizens had raised him. The Artillery Company.t having attended their much-lamented Officer and Friend here to his grave, dedicate this Inscription. He died by a Fall from his Horse the I5th of June, 1784, aetat. 42."!

On the south side :

" Under this tomb are interred the remains of Mrs. SARAH PF.KRY TURNER,§ who died 7th March, 1782, aged 39 years, leaving to her affectionate and afflicted

* He married Joan, eldest daughter of Sir John Brograve, of Hamels, co. Hertford, Knt., Attorney-General in the Duchy of Lancaster, and it is remarkable that his very magnificent monument in Sawbridgeworth church exhibits another coat of the royal lions of England, the arms of Brograve being argent, three lions passant guardant gules, granted probably in allusion to Sir John Brograve's official situation, which he held for the long period of thirty-three years. Epitaph at Braughing, Clutterbuck's " Herts," in., 158.

•)• The officers of which make an annual visit to this tomb on the anniversary of its erection.

J Sir Barnard was proposed for election into the Society of Antiquaries three days before this unfortunate accident happened.

§ Her maiden name was Tiller, of Latton, Essex.

288 Hertfordshire.

husband the following Children: Anne Tiller Turner, born 23 April, 1769; William Sackville Turner, born 4 October, 1770; Sarah Perry Turner, born 28 March, 1772; Edward George Turner, born 25 August, 1774; Sophia Perry Turner, born 31 December, 1775 ; and William Swiney Turner, born 7 March, 1782, who died I3th following, six days old."

On the west side :

" 1782. As a memorial of love and attachment to a most deserving and beloved Wife, this tomb was erected by BARNAKIJ TURNER, Commanding Officer of the London Military Foot Association during the memorable Riots in June 1780, Major of the Honourable Artillery Company, and Alderman of the City of London."

North side blank.

II. — On an altar-tomb by the south side :

" Under this stone lies the body of EDWARD TURNER, Gentleman, who was born the 6th of September, 1590, and attained the age of 86 years. He left William Turner, his son, Richard Gammon and Elizabeth Swaine, his grandson and grand daughter, his Executors, who erected this stone, which being greatly defaced was recut at the expence of Sackville and Barnard Turner, his great great grandsons, in 1772."

III. — On a blue slab on a tomb at the feet of this :

" Here lies the body of Mrs. ANNE TURNER, Wife of Edward Turner, Gentle- man, whose soul it pleased God to call to him March 3d, 1737-8, aged 72 years."

[Rest of inscription omitted.]

"Very near adjoining lies the body of EDWARD TURNER, A.M. who ventures his character of being a Nonjuror from 1688 with posterity. He died 6 December, 1755, aged 92 years, looking for the resurrection of the dead, and the life of the world to come. Amen."

Another by the side of the last :

" Under this stone lies the body of WILLIAM, second son of EDWARD and ANNE TURNER, died 27 March, 1754, aged 62 years. . . . Also the body of ANNB, his wife, who died September the gth, 1763, aged 62 years."

[Inscription omitted.] IV. — Ground slab :

"To protect the Remains of a much-respected Grandfather, Edward Turner, A.M., this stone was placed by Sir Barnard Turner, in the year 1784."

V.

" Here lies the body of WILLIAM FORDHAM, who left this world January 1st, 1765, aged 57, to receive a reward suitable to his merit in a better. — Also Mrs. MARTHA FORDHAM, Wife of the above William Fordham, and youngest daughter of Edward and Anne Turner, of Tuthill, in this parish. She died universally lamented January the 1 2th, 1777, aged 72."

VI. — On a stone against the wall of the church :

" In memory of EDWARD, eldest son of WILLIAM and ANNE TURNER, who died of the small pox at Bapaume in French Flanders, June 19, 1756, aged 21 years."

VII. — On a white marble tablet, with a pediment and urn, against the south pillar of the nave entering into the chancel :

Therfteld. 289

"To the memory of SACKVILLE TURNER, Esq., a Captain in his Majesty's 33d Regiment, and of SARAH, his wife (the only child of Edward Crockley, of Walton in Norfolk, Gentleman), who were cast away and drowned in their passage to Ireland, on the night of the Jth of September, 1774, this stone is dedicated iiy their most affectionate and afflicted brother, BARNARD TURNER."

[Inscription omitted.]

Arms : a. a chevron between 3 fer de molines s. quartering az. on a fess o. between 3 martlets o. 3 fleurs de lis s. On a shield of pretence g. a lion rampant a. debruised by a bend az. Motto, " Optimum quod evenit."*

The first of the family of Turner settled here was Dr. Francis, son of Dr. Francis Turner, Dean of Canterbury, and Canon-residentiary of St. Paul's. He is supposed to have been born at Canterbury, and was successively Bishop of Rochester and Ely, and one of the seven bishops committed to the Tower for refusing to read James II. 's Declaration for liberty of conscience. Being deprived of his bishopric after the Revolution, 1690, he ended his days in retirement, 1700. He probably retired to this rectory, to which he had been pre- sented December 20, 1664. He was educated at Winchester School, and thence elected fellow of New College, Oxford, where he proceeded B.A. 1659, M.A. 1663, B.D. and D.D. 1669, being a compounder, and in December following was collated to the prebend of Sneating in St. Paul's. He succeeded Dr. Guminp, Bishop of Chichester, in the mastership of St. John's College, Cambridge, 1669, Dr. Durell in the Deanery of Windsor, 1683, and Dr. Dolben in the See of Rochester the same year, and the year following, Di. Guming in the See of Ely. Against the south wall of Therfield chancel, which he rebuilt in a handsome manner, 1676, is a singular monument of wainscot, erected

by him to the memory of his wife, who died and was buried

in a vault made by him for her. This monument is adorned witli the images of Time and Death on each side of the inscription ; on the pediment are two female figures reclining on skulls, with their hands and eyes uplifted, and by them two flaming urns. In the middle of the pediment is a blank shield. In the centre of the monument is an oval tablet, with an inscription on a gold ground, and below it a square tablet, with an inscription, both of which may be seen at large in Chaunceyt and Salmon. J On the covering stone of the vault is, in capitals,

EXPERGISCAR,

the only memorial of the bishop, who was buried in it. Wood§ says be was the person whom A. Marvell ridicules in a book entitled, " Mr. Smirk ; or, The Divine in Mode ; being certain Annotations upon the Animadversions on Naked Truth, 1676," 410, " conceiving and taking him to be a neat, starcht, formal, and forward divine." His mistaken and inconsistent notions about hereditary right led him

* "Whatever is is best." f P- 88. J P. 348. § "Ath. Ox.," ii. 620. VOL. XVII. 19

2 go Hertfordshire.

to tell the Duke of Monmouth, who just before his execution had declared himself a Protestant of the Church of England, that, to be a member of that Church, he must believe in the doctrine of Non- resistance.* Hence Burnet, in his sketch of his character, vouches for his sincerity, but pronounces him to have " been of too quick an imagination and too defective a judgment, but moderately learned, having conversed more with men than books, and so he was not able to do the Duke of York great service ; but he was so zealous for his succession that this raised him high upon no great stock of sufficiency."t He entered into a correspondence with the exiled King and Queen, and sent to them " from himself, his elder brother, and the rest of the family, assurances full of duty in words, with a promise of showing it by their actions;" which, Burnet says,J "was plainly meant of Sancroft and the other deprived bishops." And in his letter to the Queen, he assured her " of his and all their zeal for the Prince of Wales ; and that they would no more part with that than with their hopes of heaven." Upon the discovery of this plot, the bishop absconded for a time. He preached at the coronation of James II. § Besides this sermon, he published eight others on particular occasions.

Chauncey, and after him Salmon, say the manor of Merdley, in this parish, of which they give no intermediate lords from the time of Edward III., was for a great while in the possession of the Tumors, till sold, 1630, by one of them, of the name of William. They say nothing of that of Tuthill, which seems to have been their residence, and whose site, with remains of moats and banks, is still to be seen in a field north-west from the church, in the way to a house inhabited by the present curate, Mr. Ferriby. To this manor belongs a pew in the upper end of the nave, on the door of which is cut TVTHILL, as on two others,

MANERIUM DE GLEDSEYS AND DE GLEDSEYS

and

MAR DE LIMBVRY

From the epitaph No. II., here given, it appears probable that Edward Turner, who was born in 1590, was lord here, and that from him the property descended to the late Sir Barnard, or his grand- father ; though these epitaphs do not allow us to fill up the succession with that accuracy which a close examination of the parish registers would enable us to do.||

The property of this family here was sold by the late Sir Barnard's father, who was a dealer in foreign spirits, and lived and died at Turnford, in Cheshunt parish, in an old house on the north side of the

* Rapin, ii., 749, fol. + "Hist, of his Own Times," i. 590.

t Jkid., ii., 69. § Burnet, ibid., i. 628.

II They begin in 1538, 30 Henry VIII.

Therfield. 291

London Road, not far from the fourteenth milestone, where were born Sir Barnard and two brothers and a sister.* He or his father sold the family estate here to Mr. Fordham, who married a daughter of Sir Barnard's grandfather, Edward, whose epitaph is given No. III. Edward Turner, M.A., is recorded as glorying in the bishop's anti- revolution principles.

The bishop's munificence to the chancel is celebrated in a Latin poem, signed Thomas Wright, printed in Chauncey, p. 89, dated 1678, two years after the work was done, which the register places in 1676. The bishop hung one of the bells, 1689; Dr. Stillingfleet, Dean of St. Paul's, and Dr. Tillotson another ; Dr. Holder, a successor of the hishop, gave another of the five old bells, and added a treble bell,t built the loft or gallery in the belfry, 1689, and gave a communion cloth and two prayer-books for the desk and table.

The church, situate on high ground, nearly in the centre of the village, consists of a nave, separated by three pointed arches supported by clusters of large and small pillars, and clerestory windows over them, from an aisle on each side. In the south wall of the south aisle at the end is a holy-water-hole under two pointed arches resting on three round pillars. The chancel, fitted up by Bishop Turner, has a stuccoed roof, with a large oval wreath ; the floor paved with stone, and within the rails with marble. On a coffin-fashioned stone on entering the chancel is cut RESURGAM. In a north pillar of the nave is an opening, leading to the rood-loft, which, on the rebuilding of the chancel, was succeeded by the King's arms, on which, and their supporters, Mr. T. Wright descams so sweetly in his poem before referred to. Under this opening is a locker, with a door now locked up. The font is octagon, on an octagon shaft. At the west end of the nave is a good brass figure of a priest (now headless), habited in his pontificals, his robe faced with thistles and small buds alternately, and under him was a very small plate. A blue stone contiguous preserves the cavity of another priestly figure. These may have represented rectors, and been removed from the chancel on re- building. Nothing remains in the windows, but the register pre- serves this inscription, formerly in the east window of the north aisle : " Orate pro a'i'b's D'ni W' Paston & Agnetis ux'is ejus bene- factorum hujus ecclesise A.D. 1418;" with this remark: "The parish church of Therfield was founded by Sir William Paston and Agnes his wife, in the year of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, as appears by an inscription," etc. Salmon makes the register say he founded the north aisle.

The succession of rectors, as made out in Chauncey, and con- tinued, is as follows :

* She married Lilly, an apothecary, at Hcxisdon, against her friends'

consent.

f Salmon (349) adds a saint's bell.

19—2

292 Hertfordshire.

John Overall, D.D., Dean of St. Paul's, died 1619.

William Alablaster, D.D., Prebendary of ditto, died 1640.*

John Mountford, D.D., another prebendary, who rebuilt great part of the parsonage-house, t

John Barwick, LL.D., Prebendary of St. Paul's, died 16644

Francis Turner, D.D., Dec. 20, 1664.

John Standish, D.D.g

William Holder, D.D., Residentiary of St. Paul's, 1672, Prebendary of Ely, and subdean of the King's chapel, 1691 ; died Jan. 24, 1697- 98, aged 82, and was buried in the undercroft at St. Paul's. ||

Thomas Sherlock, D.D., Dean of St. Paul's, died 1707, having resigned this rectory in favour of

Thomas Sherlock, D.D., his son, Master of the Temple, Dean of Cbichester, Bishop of Bangor 1727. He held this rectory in commen- dam till translated to Sarum 1734, and London 1748, and died 1761.

Henry Etough, M.A., rector almost 23 years ; died Aug. 10, 1757, aged 70.

Philip Yonge, D.D., Bishop of Norwich 1761, when he resigned this rectory, and was succeeded by

Charles Western, M.A., March 23, 1762, Prebendary of Durham, and present rector, 1786.

The Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's are patrons of the rectory, whence it has been usually held by one of their body, except that on the promotion of two of its rectors to bishoprics, the King has presented.

The rectory-house, to the south-east of the church, a handsome, uniform, and commodious structure, had been in great part rebuilt by Dr. Mountford ; and we are told in your present volume, p. 281, that Mr. Etough laid out ^800 on it and its appurtenances ; but the present rector rebuilt it a second time, 1777, leaving only a part at the east end, which is of ancient style ; and in the kitchen windows are these arms :

In a garter, St. George's cross.

R.S. R.S. joined by a bow-knot.

S., a chevron between three towers, a.

On another shield the chevron is chargtd with three escallops, a.

A., a bend nebule az. between three crescents, out of which issue as many fleurs-de-lis, s.

Over the parlour chimney-piece is the engraved portrait of Sir Barnard Turner, in a gilt frame, with an inscription setting forth that it was the gift of the London Military Foot Association.

* Not in Newcourt. See Wood, " Fasti.," ii. 768.

f "Ath. Ox.," ii 223. H. & A. O., ii. 139; rector of Ansty and Ware, and ejected, 1643, by the Parliament from these and other spiritualities.

t Newcourt, i. 155, 211 ; "Ath. Ox.," i. 761.

§ Qu. Rector of Connington, co. Cambridge, master of Peterhouse, antl chaplain to Charles II.. and died 1686 (?), "Ath. Ox.," ii. 851.

II BentlmmV " Ely,'' 248.

T her field. 293

Over the south door of the chancel is the following epitaph, on a white marble table, the letters vanishing apace :

"In memory of HENRY ETOUGH, M.A., being 23 years Reclor and faiihful Pastor of this parish. Died suddenly Aug. 10, 1757, in the 7oth year of his age."

[Inscription omitted.]

In the register is this entry: " 1757. The Rev. Henry Etough, M.A. Rector of this parish almost 23 years, died Aug. 10, aged 70 years, and was buried Aug. 15, in the chancel of the church, near the door."

Much of the register during his time is kept in his own hand ; the rest by his different curates.

His death is not noticed in your obituary. We are enabled to add to his other benefactions, recited p. 281, that he left an annuity of ;£s to St. Luke's Hospital, which, being sold to Dr. Plumptree, his executor, at twenty-five years' purchase, produced .£125 to that excellent charity.*

Here is a school. Bishop Turner rebuilt the house, and vested ^50 in trust for the master; the indenture was, in 1723, in the hands of Ra. Fordham.f The present master is Mr. Tho. Wing.

Edward Shuldham, LL.D., of Norfolk. Master of Trinity Hall, Cambridge, rebuilt a fine casting roof of the church, and was buried there 15034 He was of the ancient family of this name, of Shuld- ham, co. Norfolk, ordained priest by Bishop Barnet, of Ely, April 17, 1473 ; Master of Trinity Hall 1502, where he had been fellow and educated ; Canon of Exeter 14 — , and of Lincoln 1488 ; Rector of Kelshall 14 — , and of this place 14 — . His sister Elizabeth was Abbess of Barking. §

Bishop Tanner mentions a free chapel or hospital of St. John and St. James, for a master and seven brethren, at Royston, as early as the reign of Henry III. (p. 189). This, in the new edition of Ecton (p. 514), is placed in Therfield parish. G. K.

Thorley.

[181 1, Part II., pp. no-112.]

Thorley is 29 miles from London, and divided into three parts : Thorley Street, through which is the road from London to New- market ; the Rectory House, and at a small distance church and manor-house (called Thorley Hall) ; and, a mile distant, Thorley Houses, or Housen, so named by the inhabitants ; added to this, there is belonging to the parish the pretty hamlet of Twyford, through which passes the Navigation from Stortford. The parish is a square of about two miles, and contained in 1801 55 inhabited

* A Rev. Henry Etough, of Catherine Hall, Cambridge, was married to Miss Sanderson, February, 1779. (See vol. xlix., p. 103.)

t Par. Reg. J lhi,t. § Hloinef. Collect., 212.

294 Hertfordshire.

houses and 269 persons ; this year the population was found to be 313, and 60 houses.

It is remarkable that this parish, which is now in a high state of cultivation, was formerly reckoned the most uncultivated in the county. . . .

The rectory-house is old, roomy, but ill-disposed, and was built at different times, chiefly of lath and plaster ; the situation of it is damp. The old part of it, as well as the church, was supposed to have been built in the reign of Henry VI. It is low, ana has a remarkably wide front, not less than 100 feet. There are thirty acres of glebe round it.

The succession of rectors of Thorley has been accurately kept, as follows :

Will. Vigerons [alias Vigeron, alias Vigorons] 13 kal. Apr. 1327, i Edw. III.

Steph. de Scatldeford [alias Scaldeford] 6 id. Mali 1329.

[They exchanged for Finchley Rectory, Middlesex. — Will. Vigerons, pr. non. Dec. 1331, was made Archdeacon of Essex.]

Will. At Water, cl. 6 id. Maii 1333.

Tho. Thorpe, pr. 24 Sept. 1393, per mortem At Water.

John Burton, 18 April 1401, per resignationem Thorpe.

[They exchanged for Fairsted R. Essex.]

John Gray.

Will. Seton, pr. 2 Sept. 1431, per mortem Gray. — He was vicar of Sawbridgeworth, Apr. 17, 1433; vicar also of Barkway, Jan. 9, 1436.

John Chicheley, 17 Apr. 1433, per resignationem Seton. — He was rector of St. Mary's, Colchester, Mar. i, 1434.

Will. Northwold, 31 July, 1434, per resign. Chicheley.

Rob. Coventry, pr. 7 Junii 1443, per priv. Northwold. — He was rector of St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate, 24 July, 1434.

John Gaytcliffe, cap. n Sept. 1470, per mortem ult Rectoris.

Hen. Thomas, inducted in August, 1474.

[Gaytcliffe and Thomas exchanged for Wakering Magna V. in Essex 1474.]

Rob. Wylly, pr. 8 Oct. 1474, per resign. Thomas. — He was rector of St. Mary's, Colchester, Jan. 2, 1464.

Tho. Pavaden, episc. 22 Oct. 1493, per mort. Wylly. — He was Bishop of Pavia, in the dukedom of Milan ; was rector of Thorpe in Essex : promoted thither by R. Hill, pre. of London, Sept. 3, 1495.

Rob. Glowcester.

Rad. Wakefield, cap. 14 Feb. 1502, per resign. Glowcester.

Tho. Chamber, pr. 10 April, 1528, per mort. Wakefield.

Edm. Brygate, S.T.P. 22 Oct. 1545, per mort. Chamber. — Bry- gate, alias Bricket, pneb. de Portpool S. Paul, was rector of Wiley in Essex, 31 Jan. 1547, when he wrote his name Brygott, S. T. P. — He was also collated to the rectory of Hadham, Nov. 2, 1548

Thorley. 295

John Atherton, A.M. 28 Sept. 1562, per mort. Brygate. — He was rector of Leaden Roding 13 Jan. 1562.

Chr. Taten, A.M. 28 Apr. 1573, per resign. Atherton.

Fra. Burley, S.T.P. 5 July, 1594, per resign. Taten. — He was vicar of Stortford, 13 Jun. 1590.

John Mountford, S.T.B. 3 Maii 1619, per mort. Burley. — His father was rector of Anstie.

Robert Pery, S.T.B. Nov. 1640, per mort. ult. Rectoris. — He was archdeacon of Middlesex July 20, 1660 ; rector also of Hadham Sept. 22, 1662.

Tho. Turner, S.T.P. 4 Nov. 1680, per mort. ult. Rectoris. — He was archdeacon of Essex Dec. 20, 1680 ; pneb. of Mapesbury S. Paul, Maii 9, 1682 ; elected president of Corpus Christi College Oxon. Mar. 13, 1678 ; and made precentor of S. Paul's, London, Jan. n, 1689. He left ^50 to the parish of Thorley to bind our apprentices belonging to the parish.

Tho. Beaumont, A.M. 20 Jun. 1689, per resign. Turner.

John Reynolds. A.M. 27 Jan. 1710, per mort. Beaumont. — He was vicar of Stansted Mountfitchet, Essex.

Tho. Ely, 10 Maii 1728, per mort. Reynolds.

Will. Gibson, Dec. 10, 1742, per mort. Ely. — He was son to Edmund Bishop of London ; and went from Thorley to St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate.

John Horsley, A.M. 18 March 1745, per resign. Gibson.

1777, - - Lowth, per mort. Horsley. — He was eldest son of Robert Bishop of London.

1778, Stephen Eaton, A.M. per mort. Lowth. — He was arch- deacon of Middlesex, and went from Thorley to Northall, Middlesex.

1780, Samuel Horsley, LL.D. per resign. Eaton. -He exchanged Thorley for South Weald, Essex ; and was successively Bishop of St. David's, Rochester, and St. Asaph.

1782, Joseph VVarton [Head-master of Winchester College], per resig. Horsley.

1784, William Browne, A.M. per resign. Wharton.

1798, Tho. Pennington, A.M. per resign. Browne.

It is remarked that for sixty or seventy years after the Restoration there were few resident rectors.

The church is a neat building, 105 feet in length, consisting of a nave and chancel. The steeple, which is at the west end, is very handsome, a spire in a tower ; and, its situation being elevated, it commands a fine prospect of the surrounding country. The spire is very elegant, and is supposed to have been built by the same architect who built that of Bishop's Stortford.

On entering the belfry, there is an old recess in the wall, probably for holy water.

The church and chancel are both cieled ; the latter is large and

296 Hertfordshire.

handsome and wainscoted, and contains the following inscriptions on mural monuments :

"Near this stone is deposited what was mortal of the Rev. John Horsley, M.A., many years rector of this parish ; and of Mary, daughter of George Leslie, esq., of Kincraigie in Scotland, his second wife. He departed this life Nov. 27, A.D. 1777, in the 781 h year of his age. She survived her husband near ten years, and having spun out a cheerful old age to its natural end, went off without illness or pain, Oct. 21, A.D. 1787, in her 77th year. . . . His former wife was Anne, daughter of the Rev. William Hamilton, D.D., Principal of the College of Edinburgh. She died in the prime of life, and was interred in the vault under the Parish Church of St. Martin's in the Fields, Westminster. — By his two wives he left issue four sons and four daughters, who jointly dedicated this monument. . . ."

" Near this place lie the remains of Sir Wm. Billers, knt. and alderman of the city of London, Lord Mayor of the said city in the year 1734 ; who departed this life the I5th October, 1743, aged 56 years. And also of his brother, John Billers, esq. ; who died 3Oth of March, 1738, aged 45. — Sir Wm. Billers manied Anne, daughter of Sir Rowland Aynsworth, by Sarah, daughter of Sir John Fleet, Lord Mayor of London in the year 1693 ; by whom he had issue two sons and four daughters; viz. John, who died in the year 1740, and lies here interred; Martha, who died ill her infancy ; William, a minor ; Anne, married to John Olmius, esq., of New Hall, in Essex; Elizabeth and Maria, both unmarried.

"Near this place lie interred the body of John Billers, of London, esq. ; who died the igth of December, 1712, aged 69 ; and of Martha, his wife, who died the 8th of March, 1707, aged 56 : in memory of whom their sons William and John Billers have erected this monument."

"In memory of Dame Anne Billers, daughter of Sir Rowland Aynsworth, knt., and wife of Sir Wm. Billers, knt. and alderman of London ; who died the 3d day of March, 1750, in the 39th year of her age, leaving issue two sons, John and William, and three daughters, Anne, Elizabeth, and Maria."

"Near this place lies interred the body of Martha, the wife of Moses Raper, esq. ; who departed this life the i8th of March, 1725, in the 391)1 year of her age. And likewise the body of the said Moses Raper, esq. ; who departed this life the 3Oth of March, 1748, in the 6gth year of his age."

" In memory gf Matthew Raper, esq. ; who died June iSth, A.D. 1748, aged 73. lie was a man of an unblemished life and sincere piety; a tender husband and affectionate father. And of Elizabeth, his wife, who bore him six sons and one daugMer, and died April Ilth, 1760, aged 77. And also of Elizabeth, his only daughter ; who died unmarried July 8th, 1781, in the 68th year of her age. She was a religious and a virtuous woman, and an affectionate daughter and sister."

" In memory of John Howe, of Hanslip, in the county of Bucks, esq.; whose learning, wisdom, and virtue, made him honoured and beloved, and his memory dear to his friends. lie died Sept. 1st, 1769, in the 62d year of his age. And of Matthew Raper, of this place, esq., F.R.S., who died Dec. 29th, 1778, in the 74th year of his age. The friendship of their youth was founded in mutual esteem, and continued uninterrupted till death."

On a brass plate on a flat stone is the following inscription:

" Here lieth buried the body of John Duke ; who was, while he lived, Fermer of Thorley Hall, and died the 5th day of December Anno D'ni 1606 ; who by his first wife Gertrude, being buried in the church-yard of Shering, had eight children ; viz. Robert, Thomas, Margaret, William, John, Henry, Ellen, and Peter ; but by his last wife had no issue."

On a mural monument on the south side of the church is the following inscription :

Thorley. 297

" Sacred to the memory of Eliz. Carter, daughter of the Rev. Thos. Pennington, rector of this parish, and Kingsdown in Kent, by Mary Sarah, sole daughter and heiress to Wm. Michel Sale, esq., of Bledlow- Ridge in the County of Bucks, representative of the antient family long established at that place, who was the sole surviving son of George Sale, esq., well known as the learned Translator of the Koran : She was great niece to the celebrated Mrs. Eliz. Carter, and dying in London, Feb. 2Oth, 1800, was buried in Russel-Court Burying-ground, belonging to the New Church in the Strand, aged I year, and 6 months. Also of her sister, Mary Sarah, who died Feb. 20, 1802, soon after her birth, and was buried on the North bide of this Church-yard. Of such is the kingdom of God."

The font (in the nave of the church, elevated on a stone step) is a curious piece of antiquity.

The church is about a quarter of a mile from the rectory-house, and about two miles and a half south-west of the populous and flourishing town of Bishop's Stortford.

The old register-book is very correct, and would not disgrace many of the modern ones. It begins in 1539, when register-books were established, the 301)1 year of Henry VIII. There are two columns, one for the date of the year, the other of the reign of the King ; and the entries are regular, well written, and now very legible.

The Manor of Thorley, appendant on the farm called Thorley Hall, was in the last century in the possession of Sir Wm. Billers, afterwards in the family of Raper, from whom it went by marriage to the Grants, and is now in the possession of Edward, Lord Ellen- borough, Lord Chief Justice of the Court of King's Bench, who pur- chased it of John Peter Grant, Esq., grandson and representative of Mr. Raper, in 1807. Yours, etc., THORLEIENSIS.

Thundridge.

[1811, Fart l.,p. 609.]

I send you a south-eastern view of Thundridge Bury, near Ware, Herts, late the seat of J. Hollingsworth, Esq. (see Plate I.). This capacious and venerable mansion (originally named Tonbridge Bury) is situated about a mile from Wade's Mill, near Ware, and was built about the reign of Henry VII., though the outside of the building has from time to time been modernized, and only a small part, on the north side, retains its original form. The rooms are large. On the ground-floor are two parlours 36 feet by 18, and a hall 40 feet square, embellished with an elegant mantelpiece, containing much antique ornament, with the arms, helmet, and crest of the Gardiners, long possessors of this estate, one of whom lately sold it by auction to R. Giles, Esq., of Young's Bury, near this place, who has sold the mansion in lots to pull down. On removing the wainscot some very good paintings were discovered, executed on the plaster-walls, of the achievements of Hercules, one of which has been preserved. In another part of the house was discovered a painting, not very finely executed, but remarkably fresh in its colours ; the subject, Hunting

298 Hertfordshire.

a Wild Bull. Mr. Hollingsworth resided here about twenty eight years, and made many elegant improvements, particularly in the plantations and grounds, which are well stocked, principally with stately firs of various sorts. These, together with a moat that partly surrounds the house, and the church spire peeping above the trees, produce a pleasing and picturesque effect. It is much to be regretted that this venerable mansion, with every requisite for the maintenance of old English hospitality, should be destroyed ere Time had marked it with his desolating hand. Yours, etc., P.

[1811, Part //.,/. 305.]

I beg to add the following particulars to the account of Thundridge Bury, which you have already inserted in the first part of your present volume, p. 609.

It is remarkable that the oldest historian of Hertfordshire takes no notice when the manor-house was built, though he speaks of the manor having subsisted prior to the reign of Edward III. The first mention of the manor-house is in the z6th year of Henry VIII. Both certainly remained in possession of the family of Gardiner from the early part of this reign to the reign of his present Majesty, when the estate, manor and mansion were sold by Gilbert Gardiner, Esq., to Daniel Giles, Esq., who has now pulled it down. Upon stripping the north side of the building were discovered paintings on the wall, which were executed in a very rude style of drawing, but in colours which retained much of their original lustre. The subject of one piece was hunting a wild bull, which appeared to be pursued by a man on foot with a long javelin in his hand, and to be opposed in front by another who had taken his station behind a tree, which, growing from the trunk into a division of two branches, affords him a rest for his spear, so levelled as to receive the beast on its point, while a third stands in an oblique direction on his right hand, prepared with an arquebuse to fire. The second piece was a party fishing, done in the same style. Around the hall were represented the Labours of Hercules, a work most probably of a later date, undoubtedly by the hand of a superior artist, not in colours, but in a manner which might be called etching on plaster, one panel of which was with difficulty preserved, and is in the custody of the writer of these particulars. P.

Waltham Cross.

[1832, Part II., pp. 105-108.]

Waltham Cross is a monument remarkable for the illustrious historical character whom it commemorates, and rendered still more precious by the beauty of its architectural design. . . .

Edward, fifteen years after his marriage with Eleanor (during

Waltham Cross. 299

which interval he had distinguished himself in various chivalrous encounters and political events), was signed with the cross at North- ampton by Ottobon, the legate of the pope, at the same time with his brother Edmund and the Earl of Gloucester.*

Two years subsequent to this ceremony he set out on his ex- pedition to the Holy Land, in accomplishment of his vow, accom- panied by his wife, the faithful companion of his perils, who there gave birth to a daughter, Joan, surnamed de Acre (Aeon), from the place where she first drew breath. This Joan became the wife of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester. While Edward was sojourning at Acre, a correspondence was opened with him by a certain Saracen Amiral, of Joppa, who professed a high respect for his character, and testified a desire to become a Christian. The messenger employed by the Amiral was one Anzazim, a member of that extraordinary tribe called Assassins, whose elective monarch received the appella- tion of the Old Man of the Mountain, and who have since given a name to all hired murderers. This man, we are informed, had been brought up, according to the custom of the sect to which he belonged, in a subterraneous cavern, a troglodyte from his birth, in order that, unaccustomed to the influence of civilization, and thus unawed by- respect for rank, he might rush on any prince an enemy of his religion, and put him to death ; instructed to believe that, if he should perish in such an act, the joys of Paradise in life eternal awaited him. We may doubt, after this statement, of the innocence of the Amiral's intentions alleged by historians, since he employed such an. ambassador.

Anzazim on one of these missions approached the English prince, and requested a private audience. Edward dismissed his attendants, and retired with the messenger 10 an oriel window, when on a sudden the wily Assassin drew a poisoned dagger and stabbed the king twice in the arm, and once, probably thrusting at his breast, under the arm-pit. Edward struck the villain down with his foot and slew him with his own knife, in wresting which from his grasp he dreadfully wounded his hand.

According to others, he dashed out the miscreant's brains with the tripod supporter of a table standing by.

The wounds festered from the venom with which the point of the weapon that inflicted them had been imbued. Edward's affectionate consort is said with her own mouth to have extracted the poison, applying her tongue to the rankling wounds until they healed, ami receiving no injury herself from the act. On which relation an old authority has taken occasion, somewhat quaintly, to observe on the sovereign efficacy of a good wife's tongue when properly applied. t Knyghton takes the credit of the cure from Queen Eleancr, and

* Matt. Paris, p. 1005.

t Speed's '• Historv of England."

3oo Hertfordshire.

gives it to a skilful surgeon, who boldly excised the mortified flesh from the arm of his royal patient* If this should be considered the more probable account, there is no reason to doubt of the queen's anxious attendance on her husband under this casualty, which might give rise to a romantic version of her conduct. She bore Edward four sons, of whom the youngest succeeded to his crown, the un- fortunate Edward II., surnamed of Caernarvon, and nine daughters ; and having been his wife for thirty->ix years, deceased, in an ex- pedition with him towards the northern borders on November ayth, 1290, at the house of Sir Richard Weston at Heidhy or Harby, in the parish of North Clifton-upon-Trent, five miles from Lincoln. f Edward caused her body to be conveyed to London in great pomp, and himself retraced his steps to attend it. It was received into the churches at different stages on its road— namely, at Lincoln, Newark, Grantham, Leicester, Stamford, Geddington, Northampton,! Stony Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St. Alban's. Waltham, etc. — and at every one of these resting-places the king caused a cross to be erected, bearing statues of her and the armorial achievements which appertained to her dignities.

The Abbey Church of Waltham Holy Cross received the sad remains of departed royalty for the night, and at the point where the procession diverged from the highroad to convey the body to the sacred precinct Waltham Cross was erected. . . .

Waltham Cross has been often described, and descriptions of buildings seldom convey a well-defined idea; it will be better, therefore, to call in the efficient aid of delineation, and to lay before your readers an etching, chiefly derived from Mr. Clarke's plan for its restoration. . . .

The arms of England, Castile, and Leon, and Ponthieu, § on shields suspended by their guiges or straps from knots of foliage, decorate the hexagonal compartments of its basement story. The elegant style of these ornaments closely resembles that of the ancient shields in the nave of Westminster Abbey commemorating the bene- factors to the fabric.

The three figures of the queen which adorn the second stage, and whose draperies are disposed in a taste that would not disgrace the Grecian school, have suffered much from exposure in an elevated

* " Hen. de Knyghton apud Decem Scriptores," p. 2457.

t Descriptions for Stothard's "Monumental Effigies," p. 31.

J There are views of all three of the crosses, by which their features may be compared, in the " Vetusta Monumenta," vol. iii., and BriUon's " Architectural Antiquities," vol. i.

§ The arms of Castile and Leon, quarterly, gules, a castle or. and argent, a lion rampant purpure. These were used by Eleanor's father Ferdinand, as King of Castile and Leon, and are considered to be the first instance of two coats being borne quarterly in one shield. The arms of the Earldom of I'onthieu were, or, three bendlets azure within a bordure gules.

Walt ham Cross. 301

situation in the stress of weather. Those who have hitherto attempted in drawings to restore these figures have greatly erred in altering their attitude, and in placing a sceptre and a mundus in the queen's hands, which latter distinction is inappropriate, for the orb, as the mark of sovereignty, can only belong to queens regnant.

Luckily we are in possession of excellent authority for restoring the figures of Queen Eleanor at Waltham Cross. The attitude in which they were placed is that which was much in vogue in repre- senting females on the seals and sculptures of the period ; the left hand seizes the cordon of the mantle and draws it over the shoulders, while the right holds a short sceptre in an easy position. The posture of the statues on Waltham Cross was precisely that of the female figure represented on the seal of this Queen engraved in Sandford's " Genealogical History of England," and also on that of her daughter-in-law, Queen Isabella, and which have accordingly been referred to by the artist who executed the accompanying etching.* A. J. K.

Westmill.

[1786, Part //., /. 836.]

From the papers of Dr. Paul Wright we take the following epitaph in Westmill Church :

" Near this monument in a family vault are interred the remains of William Benn, esq., Alderman of the City of London, President of Bridewell and Bethlem Hospitals, Sheriff of this county in the year 1739, elected Sheriff for the City of London 1742, and with dignity and applause filled the high station of Lord Mayor 1747. Sensible of his approaching end he calmly resigned his breath, in hopes of a joyful resurrection through the merits of his blessed Saviour. August the loth, I7S5. aged S3 years. . . ."

Wheathampstead.

[1840, Pan //.,/. 298.]

Some men lately digging gravel on No Man's Land, near Wheat- hampsted, discovered in the earth, at a depth below the surface varying from 18 inches to 4 feet, the remains of twenty-five human skeletons, lying side by side, in the direction from west to east, in the space of about 20 square feet. In many of the skulls the teeth remained perfectly sound, and the enamel as fresh as on one recently interred. It has been supposed that these remains belong to part

* The Society of Antiquaries, at the instance of their secretary, Dr. Stukeley, interfered to preserve it, and at their suggestion the brick-work was carried round its base, and posts erected, in the year 1757, by John, second Lord Monson, lord of the manor of Cheshunt, in which parish the cross stands. See Clutterbuck's "History of Hertfordshire," vol. ii., p. 78. In this work is a beautiful view of Waltham Cross, and the landscape to the eastward of it, drawn by E. Blore, from a sketch by the late W. Alexander, and engraved by H. Le Keux.

302 Hertfordshire.

of the slain who fell in the second battle of St. Albans, fought in 1461. They were inspected by several medical gentlemen and others, and were buried again, about 6 feet deep, by order of Mr. John House, the steward of the manor.

The following articles are omitted :

1807, part ii., pp. 1119-1121. Hertfordshire epitaphs on eminent persons. 1832, part i., pp. 200, 388, 389. St. Albans Abbey.

1832, part ii., pp. 225, 226. Waltham Cross, by J. Britton.

1833, part ii., pp. 201-208. The same.

1844, part ii., pp. 375-377. Collars of livery and badges at battle of

Barnet. References to other volumes of the Gentleman's Magazine Library:

Prehistoric Antiquities : — Excavations on Royston Heath. — Archeology,

part i., pp. 123, 124; ancient British torques at Mardox. — Archeology,

part ii., p. 139. Roman Remains : — Hemel Hempstead, Highwood Hill, Pirton, Royston, St.

Albans, Verulam, Ware. — Romano-British Remains, part i., pp. 132-

137; part ii., pp. 389-395. Architecture : — Churches of St. Albans. — Architectural Antiquities, part i.,

pp. 358-360; Hatfield House. — Architectural Antiquities, part ii.,

pp. 36-38.

Ecdesiology : — St. Albans. — Ecclesiology, pp. 6, n, 23, 24, 52, 172. Folklore: "Popladys"at St. Albans, Witchcraft at Tring and Walkern.—

Popular Superstitions, pp. 15, 16, 247,267-269; apparition at Tewin ;

English Traditions, p. 104.

Huntingdonshire.

HUNTINGDONSHIRE.

[l8l7, //. 210-212.)

ANCIENT STATE AND REMAINS.

British Inhabitants. — Iceni, of whom th- heroine Broadicea was Queen.

Roman Province. — Flavia Cscsariensis. Stations. — Duroliponte, Godmanchester, or Huntingdon, Dunrobrivce, Domford Ferry.

Saxon Heptarchy. — Originally East Anglia, afterwards, by con- quest, Mercia.

Antiquities. — Ramsey Abbey, Bluntisham, St. Ives and St. Neots (tower 150 feet high).

Churches. — Kimbolton Castle.

Ramsey was a mitred abbey, founded in 969 by Aylwin — totius Aupeite Aldermannus — through the persuasion of St. Oswald, Bishop of Worcester. In it were buried the founder and its sainted Abbess Elfleda. Among its relics were the cheek-bone of St. Egwin and the cowl of St. Alphage ! It contained a very valuable Hebrew library, and several of its monks were learned Hebricians.

St. Ives derives its name from Ivo, a Persian Archbishop, said to have died and been buried there about 600. St. Neots obtained its appellation from the relics of St. Neot, having been removed thither from Cornwall.

Kimbolton Castle was the retirement of Catharine of Arragon after her divorce, who died there January 8, 1536.

PRESENT STATE AND APPEARANCE.

Rivers. — Ouse, Nene or Nen, Cam. Inland Navigation. — Nen and Ouse rivers. Lakes. — Whittlesea, Ramsey and Ugg Meres.

Eminences and Views. — Alconbury Hill ; Bluntisham Churchyard ; Holywell.

VOL. XVII. 2O

•506 Huntingdonshire.

Natural Curiosities. — Hailweston and Somersham medicinal waters Seats. — Kimbolton Castle, Duke of Manchester, lord-lieutenant of the county ; Buckden Palace, Bishop of Lincoln ; Connington Castle, John Heathcote, Esq. ; Elton, Earl of Carysfort ; Gains Hall, J. Duberley, Esq. ; Hinchinbrook House, Earl of Sandwich ; Overton Longueville, Earl of Aboyne ; Paxton Place, Pointer Stanley, Esq. ; Paxton House, Richard Reynolds, Esq. ; Ramsey, William Henry Fellowes, Esq.; Stirtloe, Lancelot Brown, Esq.; Stoughton, Earl Ludlow ; Upwood House, Sir Richard Bickerton, Bart. ; Views, The, George Sharpe, Esq.

HISTORY.

A.D. 1283, The Earldom of Huntingdon (which appertained to the Crown of Scotland from the time of Stephen) granted by Edward I. to William Clinton.

1645, Huntingdon (August 25), taken, and the Parliamentarian, Captain Bennett, slain by Charles I.

1648, at St. Neots, July 7, Royalists surprised and defeated by Colonel Scroop ; and their commander, Henry Rich, Earl of Hollr.nd, shortly afterwards taken prisoner at St. Ives, and conveyed to London, where he was beheaded.

BIOGRAPHY.

Beaumais, surnamed Rums, Bishop of London, Sawtrey Beaumes (died 1128).

Broughton, Richard, author of " Monasticum Britannicum," Stukeley (flor. temp. Jac. I.).

Cotton, Sir Robert, antiquary, Denton, 1570.

Cromwell, Bridget, eldest daughter of Oliver, wife of Ireton, Huntingdon, 1624.

Cromwell, Elizabeth, favourite daughter of Oliver, wife of John Claypoole, Huntingdon, 1629.

Cromwell, Henry, Lord Deputy of Ireland, Huntingdon, 1628.

Cromwell, Sir Oliver, generous and loyal, Hinchinbrook, 1562.

Cromwell, Oliver, Regicide, Protector, Huntingdon, 1599.

Cromwell, Richard, Protector, Huntingdon, 1626.

Dixie, Sir William, founder of Bosworth School, Lord Mayor of London, 1585, Great Catworth.

Dunton, John, bookseller, author of " Athenian Gazette," Graff- ham, 1659.

Everton, Silvester de, Bishop of Carlisle, Everton (died 1254).

Fishbourn, Richard, benefactor, Huntingdon (died 1625).

Huntingdon, Gregory of, Prior of Ramsey, Hebrician, Hunting- don (died 1280).

Huntingdon, Henry of, historian, Huntingdon, 1220.

Mapletoft, John, physician and divine, Margaret Inge, 1631.

Miscellaneous Remarks. 307

Marshall, Stephen, first of the Smectymnians, Godmanchester (died 1655).

Montague, Edward, Earl of Manchester, Parliamentarian General, Kimbolton, 1602.

Nicholas, Sir Ambrose, founder of almshouses, Lord Mayor of London in 1576, Needingworth.

Perrot, Robert, Nonconformist divine and author, St. Ives.

Pratt, Samuel Jackson, "The Gleanor," miscellaneous writer, St. Ives, 1749.

Ramsey, William de, Abbot of Peterborough, biographical poet (flor. temp. Edward IV.).

St. Ives, Roger de, writer against the Lollards, St. Ives (flor. 1400).

St. Noets, Hugh De, commentator on St. Luke, St. Noets (died

Saltrey or Sawtrey, Henry, writer on Purgatory, Sawtrey All Saints (flor. 1 140).

Trimnel, Charles, Bishop of Winchester, Ripton Abbots, 1663.

White, Francis, Bishop of Ely, St. Neots (died 1638).

White, John, divine, St. Neots (died 1615).

Whittlesea, William de, Archbishop of Canterbury, Whittlesea (died 1375).

Wild, Robert, Nonconformist divine and poet, St. Ives, 1609.

MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS.

Huntingdonshire and Cambridgeshire form one sheriflfalty ; the Sheriff is appointed one year from the Isle of Ely, the next year from the other part of Cambridgeshire, and the following year from this county.

In Bluntisham Church is the monument of its rector, Dr. Knight, biographer of Colet and Erasmus.

In Buckden Church lie the Bishops of Lincoln, two Barlows, Sanderson, Reynolds and Green.

In Connington Church is the monument of the antiquary, Sir Robert Cotton.

Glatton was the property of Mr. Wells, of Chatham, who built the 50 gunship, so called, in which Captain Trollope, on July 16, 1796, off Helvoetsluys, defeated and pursued a French squadron of six frigates, a cutter and a brig.

At Huntingdon, in April, 1593, John Samwell, of Warboys, his wife and daughter were executed for witchcraft, and so lately as July, 1719, Mary Hicks and her daughter, only nine years of age, were executed at the same place for the same pretended crime.

At Kimbolton were buried Henry, first Earl of Manchester, Lord High Treasurer to James I. ; Edward his successor, the Parliamen- tarian General ; Robert, the first Duke, and his descendants.

2O - 2

308 Huntingdonshire.

Little Gidding was the religious retirement of the Ferrar family, remarkable for their learning, the purity of their lives, and the austerity of their discipline. The establishment was founded in 1625 by Mr. Nicholas Ferrar (who died thtre in 1637), and was repeatedly visited by Charles I.

At Ramsey, in 1666, 400 persons died of the plague, introduced by a coat made in London by a tailor who died of that disease.

At St. Ives, April 30, 1689, a great part of the town and properly, to the value of ,£13,072, was destroyed by fire.

Somersliam Rectory, annexed to the Regius Professorship of Divinity at Cambridge, was held by that excellent Apologist for Christianity, Dr. Watson, the late Bishop of Landaff.

Stilton gives name to some excellent cheese, which was first publicly sold at the Bell Inn in that place, but it is made in a particular district in Leicestershire.

Wansford Bridge is celebrated by Drunken Barnaby, whose adventure on a haycock, swept away by a flood whilst he was sleep- ing upon it, is commemorated on the sign of the principal inn, called " Wansford in England."

At Wyton, September 28, 1795, the late Right Hon. Charles James Fox was married to Elizabeth Blane. BYRO.

Alwalton.

[1842, Part I., p. 304.]

The church at Alwalton is a very beautiful edifice of ancient date, combining the Norman and Early English styles. Its repairs had long been neglected, and at various times it had been disfigured by every possible enormity : by pews, or rather cribs, of every shape, size, height, and colour; by what was called a singing loft; by bricking up one most beautiful arch, and by letting others go to decay; by broken floors, broken seats, and broken windows ; by crumbling walls, and a roof scarcely hanging together. All these defects have been repaired ; everything tending to disfigure the building has been removed. An entire new roof has been put on the nave anrl transepts ; the walls of the latter have been rebuilt ; the arches and the windows have all been restored ; the church is repaved ; the body of it is now fitted wiih open free seats, and the remaining pews have been renewed in a uniform style. The cost of these works (exclusive of ^200 laid out on the chancel) amounts to ^750. Of this sum ^ni were raised by a 2s. rate ; ^55 were given by the Society for Promoting the Building of Churches ; ^255 by other donations. During the pre- sent month the inhabitants met, and although a great deficiency in the funds then existed, good example produced so beneficial an effect that considerable additions were made to previous liberal subscrip- tions (among them an addition of ^£45 to his previous subscription, fiom the venerable churchwarden, Mr. Bark), and a rate of 35. 6d.

Alwalton. 309

in the £ was unanimously agreed on, which will have the effect of liquidating the whole of the expenses incurred in this Christian work. Two excellent sermons, preached by the Rev. John Hopkin- son, A.M., the Rector, on the reopening of the church, have txen published at Stamford.

Buckden.

[1841, Fart I., pp. 241-247.]

Buckden is a small but pleasant village on the great North road, about six miles north of St. Neots. To this advantage, now almost lost sight of in the general improvement of our means of communica- tion, it probably owed the circumstance of its being selected as a residence by the Bishops of Lincoln, who have had a "manor" or palace here during many centuries.

•'Bugedene" is surveyed in Domesday Book among the lands of the Bishop of Lincoln ; the arable land was twenty carucates, of which five were in demesne. There is, therefore, no foundation for the statement, which, having been started by Leland,* appears to have been taken for granted by the subsequent writers on the topo- graphy of the much neglected county of Huntingdon ; that this manor was transferred from the Abbey of Ely, by way of compensa- tion, when the latter was first erected into a bishopric in the reign of Henry I. Leland adds that " Rotheram Bishop of Lincoln buildid the new brike towr at Brukden. He clene translatid the Haul, and did much coste there beside."!

The period of the episcopate of Thomas Rotherham (who was afterwards Archbishop of York), in ^e see of Lincoln, was from 1472 to 1480.

The works were continued by John Russell, his successor, whose rebus of a throstle remains to the present day in the bosses of the dining-room (as seen in our Plate), surrounded with this inscription, Jfe 0ui0 k IfltteceUuj). It may be remarked that the same motto in his own handwriting is engraved in Nichols's " Royal and Noble Autographs," fol. 1829, pi. n, from a volume of Latin poetry, by Walter Mapes, etc., formerly in the bishop's possession and now in the Cottonian Library. . . .

* ''Spaldwik and Bukden," says Leland, "were geven out of the fee of St. Etheldrede to the Bishop of Lincoln for the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Ely in Cambridgeshire." Godwin added Biggleswade, "Ad resarciendum damnum sibi inferendum, Rex de alieno corio ludens, largitus est illi et successorihus tria manneria, ad Ecclesiam Eliensem hucusque spectantia, mmirum Spaldwick, Biccles- worth, et Bokden." That Spaldwick was so given is shown by the charter printed in the " Monasticon ;" but it was remarked by Browne Willis, " Cathedrals," vol. ii., p. 47, that Higgleswade was given to the church of Ely at a sul^equent time, and another charter in the " Monasticon " shows the grant was made in 1 132. Neitlu r had Biggleswade ever belonged to the church of Ely ; at the Dome-day Survey it was the manor of Radulphus de Insula, and the gift to the church of Lincoln came direct from the King.

t Itin., iv., 48.

3 1 o Huntingdonshire.

There was a palace at this place in the time of the memorable Robert Grosstete, who died in it October 9, 1252. Upon a minute examination of the older parts of the structure, as it remains at present, there appears to be no remnant of the house inhabited by this distinguished prelate. The great chamber, which had subse- quently been convened into a drawing-room, passage, and bedroom, is the most ancient part now standing. The nnials on the top of each of its gables are simple and ornamented with a rude volute, and might induce some persons to attribute this building to the thirteenth century. But the coping upon the bay window of the eastern gable (now the drawing-room window) seems conclusive to the contrary. It rises a very few inches, and shows the commence- ment of the embattled moulding ; and this appears to have been introduced in the succeeding century. With this the carvings at the ends of the timbers of the roof also agree. In the opinion of some persons, who are no inferior judges of such matters, it may be dated as far back as the very beginning of the fourteenth century.

The other parts of the palace bear testimony to the thne of Bishop Russell, who was translated from Rochester to the see of Lincoln September 9, 1480, and died January 30, 1494; fixing the building of the greater part of the structure between these dates. Upon the principal gateway into the court of the palace his armorial bearings (two chevronels between three roses) is formed by coloured bricks, answering to its proper blazon. The same occurs in the gable of this part of the building towards the kitchen garden; and again, in bold relief, on the boss of the ceiling of the great dining-room in the lower story of the great tower. On another boss of the same ceiling is his rebus, a throstle* or thrush, with this old French legend issuing from its beak, " Le Roscelluy je suis," within a border of roses.

The character of this paitof the palace is that of the square-headed Perpendicular, with a drip-stone ; excepting the chapel, the windows of which are wiihin a four-centred arch. The fitting up of the chapel appears to have been done by his successor, Bishop Smith, who came to the see November 6, 1495, and whose arms (a chevron between three roses) are carved in relief on a shield held by an angel, as an ornament for the end of the bishop's seat. Just below the ceiling of the chapel is a small window into a bedroom, probably designed for the bishop, through which he was enabled both to hear and see the minister officiating 'at the altar. There was originally an entrance to the chapel at the bottom of a corkscrew staircase near the bishop's seat, through which the chaplain entered from his chamber above the chapel. This staircase led up to the lobby, from which both the bishop and chaplain had access to their sleeping apartments. The room below this lobby and the bishop's bedroom

* See Chaucer, 1. 13,699.

Buckden. 3 1 1

appears to have been the prelate's private library, from which there was access to the chapel.*

In the centre of the main bo.ly of the palace there was a small court open to the weather, out of which there was an arched door- way into the offices beneath the great chamber. This court was subsequently covered with a skylight.

The north-western parts of the palace having been rebuilt and altered from the original design, in consequence of the hall and its appendages, which stood in that direction, having been demolished when it was in the hands of the Parliamentary Commissioners in the seventeenth century, it is impossible to state to what purpose they were applied. It is probable that the principal entrance was opposite to the present principal gate, and that a lobby conducted to the hall on the left, and on the right to the staircase of the tower and great chamber, as at present. Besides this way of access, the tower has a staircase in its north-east and north-west turrets. The whole of this, together with the entrance-tower and the offices attached to it, was surrounded by a ditch, with certain walls embattled, in those parts which were not defended by buildings. And when we recollect that this mansion was erected during the turbulent times of Edward IV., and not finished till those of Richard III., its castellated character, though designed for the habitation of a man of peace, is accounted for.

The rooms on the ground-floor on either side of the great gate were appropriated to domestic purposes. That on the right hand as you enter was originally the almonry, the hatch of which still remains, as do the benches under the gateway itself, on which the poor sat. The rooms on the left, entered from a cloister, were appropriated to the dairy, and further northward to the brewery, attached to which is a spacious octagonal turret. A square turret leads up to two rooms, one above the oiher, over the gateway. The lower, lately the diocesan library, was probably the secretary's apartment, as the rooms to the southward were his office and registry. The chambers on the left of the entrance-tower were applied to the purpose of a record- room, and sleeping-rooms for menials.

The ancient kitchen was, it is supposed, destroyed with the hall, near which it was always situate under the ancient arrangement. The modern building applied to this purpose abuts upon the offices beneath the drawing-room. Above the great dining-room, lobby, and small room adjoining is the principal bedroom, dressing-room and a small apartment.t and, again, above these the great dorter or dormitory, occupying the whole space at the top of the tower. In this were two chimneys. The present bishop converted this room

* The writer is here refening to the time of Bishop Russell, t Probably the space these occupy was originally one large room for the higher orders; who were accustomed, in times past, to repose in one apartment.

3 1 2 Huntingdonshire.

into two bedrooms. The turrets at the angles of this tower are octagonal. Two contain stairs, as has been stated, and the other two small octagon rooms fitted up with shelves in recesses, which seem to point them out as intended for retirement and study.

In the reign of King James I. the palace fell into decay, and the extent of the repairs then done to it will be best understood by the following extracts from Racket's " Life of Archbishop Williams," the prelate who possessed it at that time :

" He came to his seat of Bugden at disadvantage in the winter : and winter cannot be more miry in any coast of England than it is round about it. He found a house nothing to his content to enter- tain him. 'Twas large enough, but rude, waste, unirimm'd, and in much out of the outward dress like the grange of a fanner ; for from the time of his predecessor, Dr. Russel. that was Lord Chancellor of England, and sat there in the days of Edward the Fourth, and laid out much upon that place, none that followed him, no not Splendian Woolsey, did give it any new addition, but rather suffered it to be overgrown with the decays of an ill-favour'd antiquity. This bishop did wonders in a short time, with the will of a liberal man and the wit of a good surveyor, for in the space of one year, with many hands and good pay, he turned a ruinous thing into a stately mansion. The outhouses, by which all strangers passed, were the greatest eyesore ; these he pluck'd down to the ground, and re-edified witli convenient beauty, as well for use as uniformity. These were stables, barns, granaries, houses for doves, brewing, and dairies ; and the outward courts, which were next them, he cast into fair allies and grass-plats.

" Within doors the Cloysters* were the trimmest part of his repara- tions. The windows of the square,t beautified with stories of coloured glass, the pavement laid smooth and new, and the walls on every side hung with pieces of exquisite workmen in limning, collected and provided long before. The like and better was done for the Chapel in all ihese circumstances, and with as much cost as it was capable of; for the oversight from the beginning was, that it •was the only room in the house that was too little.

" He planted woods, the trees in many places devised by him into ranks and proportions; but woods are the most needful supplies for posterity, and the most neglected. He fenced the Park and stored it with deer. He provided for good husbandry, and he bought in all the leases of the demesnes for them which would stock the grounds ; which improvidently, and for hunger of monies, were let out to the very gates.

" He loved stirring and walking, which he used two hours and more every day in the open air if the weather served ; especially if he

* All of which must have been subsequently destroyed in the Rebellion, except the small cloister of the offices.

t Only three sides of which remain.

Buckdcn. 3 1 3

might go to and fro, where good scents and works of well-formed shape were about him. But tliat this was his innocent recreation it would amount to an error, that he should bury so much money in gardens, arbours, orchards, pools for water-fowls, and for fish of all variety, with a walk raised 3 feet from the ground, of about a mile* in compass, shaded and covered on each side with trees and pales.

" He (Dr. Racket) who reports this knew best that all the nurseries about London for fair flowers and choice fruits were ransacked to furnish him. Alcinous, if he liad lived at Bugden, could not have liv'd better. And all this, take it together, might have stood to become five ages after his reparation. ' But,' he adds (writing after the Rebellion), ' what is there that appears now? or what remains of all this cost and beauty ? All is dissipated, defaced, pluc't to pieces to pay the army, following the rule which Severus the Emperor gave to his sons Antoninus and Geta, " Locupletate milites, creteros omnes contemnite." Here's nothing standing of all the Bishop's delights and expence. Nebuzar-adan, the servant of the King of Babylon, hath been there, 2 Kings xxv. 8, and made profit of the havock of the place, though the building would have yielded more gain to have let it stood than to be demonish'd. But such purchasers made ready mony of everything to-day, dreading the right owner's return; or that another chapman, upon some new state project, might purchase it over his head to-morrow,' etc., etc. . . .

" It were sad to part thus with such a delightful pile of building. Therefore return to it while it stood and flourish'd. Above all, while the true owner kept it, the holy service of God was well order'd and observed at noon, and at evening with musick and organ, exquisitely, as in the best Cathedrals ; and with such voices, as the kingdom afforded not better for skill and sweetness, the Bishop bearing a tenor part among them often. And this was constant every day, as well as on solemn feasts, unless the birds were flown abroad, for they are of a tribe of which some are not always Canons Regular, whose negli- gence the Bishop punish'd no further than with a merry story. "t

The worthy biographer's style is diffuse, and we have not space to quote him at length, though many of his details are very interesting and curious. . . . He gives this interesting picture of the episcopal hospitality of the olden times :

" Bugden is a thorough-fare into the great counties of Lincoln and York ; whose nobles and gentry, with their retinues, call'd in at that palace in their passage, and found a sumptuous table and a cellar free, if not open. The House, as great as it was, was likely well filled. The Master of it delighted not in solitude ; for he loved not to save charges. Besides such passengers, he seldom set to meat without some of the Clergy, commonly a coovy. The very yeomanry

* The extent was less than a mile.

t Hacket's "Life of Archbishop Williams," part ii., p. 29.

3 1 4 Himtiiigdonshire.

of fashion of the adjacent towns were welcome, not only to his hall, but to his board. And though the resort was such, yet he lived in that order and method that his more serious thoughts were seldom interrupted with domestick affairs. The poor were sharers in this hospitality, more than any for their number, with whom he desired to divide the goods of the earth, that he might divide with them the joys of heaven. . . .*

"At this table a Chorister read a chapter in the English trans- lation at dinner, and one of his Gentlemen another in the Latin translation at supper : for there was none of them but was bred at least to so much learning. After that, discourse took up the time ; . . . Herein the Bishop excellM himself; for none could give better discourse to all that sit with him at meat. ... So much company was often about the Bishop, as made Bugden look like an Academy and the cheer like a Commencement. . . . From Cambridge, that being so near, and he so hospitable, he was daily visited. But when Dr. Ward and Dr. Brownrigg (now the Right Reverend Bishop of Exon) came to do him honour with their observance, it was a high feast with him. This noble pair were both most godly, most learned, most humble, fit to make friends with the most virtuous."* . . .

The person alluded to under the name of Nebuzar-adan, it is believed, was the famous Alderman Packe, the Republican Lord Mayor of London, to whom " the manner of Bugden " was sold for the sum of ^8,174 i6s. 6d. by the Commissioners for the sale of Bishops' lands on January 23, 1648-49^

This was during the episcopate of Bishop Winniffe, Williams having been translated to the see of York in 1641. But at an earlier period, when Williams fell into disgrace with Charles I. in 1637, it appears that the furniture, if not the structure, of Buckden hail suffered materially. In order to enforce the pavn.ent of the fine imposed upon him in the Star Chamber, its solicitor, Kilvert,J was commissioned to go down to Buckden and Lincoln, with an extent, and the devil, says Hacket, " could do no worse to Job, when he was put into his hands ; he seizeth upon all the books he found ; movables, goods, plate, furniture, to the value of ^10,000, ot which he never made account but of ^800. . . . He telled the timber, killed the deer of the park, settles in Bugden House for three summers, with a seraglia of qucedam, sells an organ that cost ^120 at ,£10 ; pictures that cost .£400 at ^5. Books he filcht what he could, and tor four cellars of wine, cyder, ale, beer, with wood, hay, corn, and the like, stored up for a year or two, he gave not account of sixpence, but spent it upon baggage, and loose franions, as prodi-

* Ilacket's " Life of Archbishop Williams," part ii., p. 31. t "Collectanea Tcpog. et Geneal.," vol. i., p. 105.

t In another place called "a vexatious prosecutor of many in the Couit of Star Clumber" . . . "the worst visitor that ever came to a Bishop's house," p. 62.

I

Buckden. 3 1 5

gaily as if he had kept a Shrievalty. Thus a brave personal estate flew away into atoms, and not a tally struck to pay his Majesty."*

Upon the ejection of the Bishops in the Great .Rebellion, the Parliamentarian Commissioners made a survey of the palace, which is still in the Bishop's registry ; and from the description therein given a conclusion may be drawn that the north-west part of the fabric, containing the hall and its appurtenances, as already men- tioned, were demolished before the Restoration. For, on the elec- tion of Dr. Sanderson to the Bishopric of Lincoln, he found this the only palace left to it, and in so dilapidated a state as to require extensive repairs. Of this, Isaac Walton, in his life of that wise, pious, meek, and innocent prelate, gives the following testimony : "The bishop's chief house of Bugden, having been, at his consecra- tion, a great part of it demolished, and what was left standing under a visible decay, was by him undertaken to be erected and repaired ; and it was performed with great speed, care, and charge."t

It continued in this state till the time of Bishop Green, who came to the see in 1761, and who made some slight alterations in the interior of the north-west part of it. Upon the election of Bishop Pretyman (Tomline) in 1787 a further change took place by the addition of a private library and morning-room above it, on the north side of the chapel, and the filling up of the moat on all sides of the house except the western, which was left, with a bridge of two arches over it, at the chief entrance. Bishop Kaye thoroughly repaired the whole, and added a turret and stairs to the north side of the entrance hall.

The principal portions of Buckden Palace are still standing, although it is unoccupied with the exception of the dining-room which is used as a national schoolroom. There has been a sale of materials, the produce of which has been paid into the hands of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners for the benefit of the see ; but the square tower still remains, containing the dining-room, the great chamber (of which the drawing-room was a part), said by the late Mr. Rickman, of Birmingham, to be of the date of the fourteenth century ; the chapel of the date of Henry VIII. ; and the gateway of the same date as the tower.

Bishop Russell (or Bishop Rotherham) from the style of the octagonal buttress at the south-west corner of the garden, surrounded that part with the brick wall now standing. And there is a tradition that at the south-east angle stood the house of the Bishop's Chan- cellor. Opposite the former is an inn, faced with brickwork, but formerly of timber ; which (although now the White Lion has usurped the place of the Lamb) was doubtless anciently known by the sign of the Agnus Dei. The kitchen of this inn affords a

* Hacket, "Life of Archbishop Williams," part ii., p. 182.

+ See Walton's " Life of Bishop Sanderson," Zouch'b edit., p. 428.

3 1 6 Huntingdonshire.

remarkable specimen of the domestic architecture of the fifteenth century. The rafters are concentrated in a round boss in the middle of the ceiling, like the cords of 'a tent, on which in relief is the representation of the lamb and pennon, with the words, "Ecce Agnus Dei."

In the Church of Buckden the remains of the following bishops are deposited : William Barlow, 1613; Robert Sanderson, February i, 1663; and Thomas Barlow, 1691. There is a monument in the chancel to the memory of Bishop William Barlow, repaired by his successor, Thomas Barlow ; and two cenotaphs, one for Bishop Green, who died and was buried at Bath ; the other for Bishop Pelham, who was interred with his ancestors at Laughton, in Sussex.

Bishop Grey died in the Palace February, 1435. He was a great benefactor to the building of this church. His armorial bearings — gules, a lion rampant within a border engrailed argent — were once in the windows (B. Willis, Cath., ii., 55) Probably it was finished by Bishop Alnwick, whose arms, a cross moline, are upon a corbel supporting the roof of the nave.

On January 10, 1814, George, Prince Regent, dined and slept at Buckden Palace on his return from Belvoir Castle.

There is a view of Buckden Palace by Buck, about 1720, which affords an adequate idta of its size and general features. A view published in a pocket-book (we think the "Suffolk Pocket-book") a few years since gives a pleasing representation of its peaceful aspect. Seven well-executed lithographic plates of Buckden Palace have been recently published in 410. by Mr. Rudge, of Bedford.

By the late ecclesiastical alterations, the whole of Huntingdonshire has been transferred from the see of Lincoln to that of Ely. The Bishop of Lincoln has removed for his country residence to Willing- ham House, near Market Rasen, a modern mansion erected in the year 1790, and formerly the seat of Ayscough Boucherett, Esq., M.P. for Great Grimsby.

Hinchinbroke.

[1798, Part 11., pp. 670-673.]

Hinchinbroke House is situated in the parish of Brampton, about a mile from Huntingdon, on the south-east side of a gentle slope. The Benedictine priory of nuns, founded here by William the Conqueror, was granted at the dissolution, 39 Henry VIII., to Sir Richard Cromwell, great-grandfather of the Protector, and one of the visitors of religious houses, of which he had no less than seven to his share.* His son, Sir Henry, made this his winter, and Ramsey his summer residence, and built at both. The nuns' apartments or cells

* Huntingdon, Saltsey, Ramsey, Ilinchinbroke, and St. Neofs, co. Huntingdon, Si. Helen's, Bishopsgate, and Grayfriars, Yarmouth.

Hinchinbroke. 3 1 7

are entire, and used as lodging-rooms for the menial servants. The present kitchen was their refectory. The chapel was destroyed, except some trifling remains now part of one of the walls of the house, seeming to have been the corner of the tower ; near which, in lowering the flooring a few years ago, one or more stone coffins were found.*

The principal gateway, supported within by two woodmen, large as life, leads into a court decorated with box or yew trees clipped into the form of barrels.

Sir Henry's eldest son Oliver resided here ; and here King James I. visited him in 1603, 1605, 1616, 1617. For the first of these visits, on his accession to the throne of England, Sir Henry built that very elegant bow window to the dining room, in which are two shields of his family arms, impaling those of his two wives, painted on glass, with many quarterings, and round on the outside a prodigious number of shields, all engraved and described by Mr. Noble. t He received the King April 27, 1603, at the gate of the great court, and conducted him to that which immediately led to the principal entrance of the house. The concourse of people to see the new King was so great that he issued a proclamation to prevent it, but with little success. The liberality of Oliver had such an effect on James, that he created him, with fifty-nine others, a Knight of the Bath, July 24, prior to his coronation. His hospitality and expensive manner of living obliged him to sell this mansion, with all the lands near it conveyed to him in the original grant, and others which he had purchased in the parish of Brampton, for ^1,650 in 1627, to Sir Sidney Montagu, Knt., of Barnwell, co. Northampton, one of the Masters of the Requests to his Majesty,^ in which family it has ever since continued. Sir Sidney's second son, Edward, served in the Par- liament army, but at the Restoration joined the King, and being admiral of his fleet, was created K.G. May 28, 1661, and on July 12 following Lord Montague of St. Neots, Viscojnt Hinchinbroke, and Earl of Sandwich, distinguished himself in several actions with the Dutch, and was at last blown up with his ship off Southwold, May 19, 1672. He was succeeded by his eldest son Edward, who, dying 1689, was succeeded by his eldest son Edward; and he, 1729, by his grandson John, who died 1792, and was succeeded by his son John, fifth and present earl.

In the Hall are portraits of —

Commodore Sir Richard Bickerton. Rear-Admiral Edward Shouldham. Rear-Admiral Hughes. Rear-Admiral Palliser.

* Noble's " History of the Cromwells," vol. i., p. 21.

t Ibid., pp. 39, 43, 245, letter G. J Ibid., pp. 33, 34-

3 1 8 Huntingdonshire.

Edward-Richard, Viscount Hinchinbroke, in armour, 1710, father of the late lord

William Montague, younger brother of the late lord.

Lord Halifax, a bust.

John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester.

Edward, first Earl of Sandwich, whole length, in a black robe, with star and ruffles and gloves. Of this great man, of whom his noble descendant had reason to be proud, there are five portraits in the house, besides the blowing up of his ship twice painted on glass.

Edward, Lord Montagu of Boughton.

Emperor Charles V. in black armour.

Elizabeth, third Countess of Sandwich, daughter of John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester.

Edward, first Earl of Sandwich, in armour and red robe, holding a truncheon.

The taking of two French privateers and their prize by the Bridg- water and Sheerness men-of-war, 1745 (vol. xv., 302).

The Lyon and Elizabeth, 1745 (xv., 352, 387, 441). This was Sir Piercy Brett's action.

The Blast sloop and two Spanish prizes, 1745.

The Nottingham and Mars, 1746 (xvi., 583).

The taking of the Acapulco ship by Commodore Anson, 1743 (xiii., 326).

Drawing-room.

Frances, Lady Carteright, daughter to Sir Richard Worsley, who died 17/17, playing on a harp.

Miss Mary Montagu, eldest daughter of Lord Viscount Hinchin- broke. She died . . .

Elizabeth, daughter of Edward, Lord Hinchinbroke, thirty-three, in white satin, with a lamb. She married, 1737, Kelland Courtnay, second son of Sir William C., of Powderham Castle.

Henrietta Maria.

Elizabeth, Duchess of Montagu, in a Turkish dress.

Heads of Mallet, Countess of Lisburne, (third) daughter to the Earl of Rochester (wife of John, first Viscount Lisburne).

Elizabeth, Countess of Sandwich (wife of the third earl, and daughter of Lord Rochester).

Dame de Berri, daughter to the regent.

Anne, Viscountess Hinchinbroke. She was lady of the second earl, and fourth daughter of Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington, and died 1688-89. Three-quarters, Lely.

Duchess of Orleans.

Duchess of Mazarine.

Mary of Modena, Queen of James II.

Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough.

Hinchinbroke. 3 1 9

Lady Anne Hervey, three-quarters. Qu. daughter of the first Earl of Bristol, died 1771 ?

Elizabeth, Countess of Northumberland, widow of Joceline, eleventh Earl of Northumberland, married to Ralph, afterwards Duke of Montague. She was youngest daughter of Thomas Wriothesley, Lord Southampton ; married to the Karl of Northumberland, 1662 ; and after his death, only 1670, to Ralph, Lord Montague, embassa- dor to France from Charles II., and by Anne created Duke of Montague, 1705, who had by her his son and successor, and Anne, grandmother of the late Lord Sandwich.

Elizabeth, Viscountess Hinchinbroke, daughter of Alexander Popham, wife of Edward Richard, Viscount Hinchinbroke, died 1761.

Anne, daughter of Ra'ph, Duke of Montague (wife of Alex. Popham, Esq., and mother of the last).

Jemima, Countess of Sandwich, daughter of Lord Crewe (wife of Edward, first Earl of Sandwich, born 1625, married 1642).

In the Dining-room.

Edward, first Earl of Sandwich, in the robes of the Garter, whole length.

William, Duke of Cumberland, in robes.

In the window, among other paintings, the landing of Charles II., and the death of the first Earl of Sandwich, who was blown up in his ship, the Royal James, in a sea-fight with the Dutch, May 19, 1672.

The Montague arms and quartcrings.

Edward, first earl, married , daughter of Crew.

Edward, Lord Hinchinbroke.

Sidney M. married — - Wortley.

Jemima M. married Carteret.

Paulina M., Oliver M., and John M., Dean of Durham, died single.

Charles M., married : i. - - Forster, 2. Rogers.

James M. died single.

Anne married : i. Sir Richard Edgecumbe, K.B., 2. Christopher Montague.

Catharine married: i. Sir Nicholas Bacon, K.B., 2. Ralph Gardeman.

On one side, Edward, third Earl of Sunderland, married Wilmor.

Edward, Lord Hinchinbroke.

Elizabeth M. died an infant.

On the other side, Edward, second Earl of Sunderland, married Boyle.

Edward, Lord Viscount Hinchinbroke.

Elizabeth M. died single.

Richard M. died single.

3 2O Huntingdonshire.

Edward, Lord Viscount Hinchinbroke, married Popham.

Edward.

John, Lord Viscount Hinchinbroke.

William married Naylor.

Mary.

Elizabeth married Courtnay.

John, fourth Earl of Sandwich, married Fane.

John died an infant.

John, Viscount Hinchinbroke.

Edward died eight years old.

Mary.«

William Augustus.

In the Library.

A head of General Monk. Ireton, three-quarters. Robert Cromwell, father of Oliver Cromwell. Oliver's mother. Prince Rupert. Ninon de 1'Enclos.

In t)te Bedchamber.

John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester.

Miss Ray, in blue, with a rich stomacher, rose at breast, white gloves, and fan in her right hand crossed over her left. Of her and her unfortunate end, see vol. xlix., pp. 210, 211.

Miss Henrietta Maria Clark.

In another, a Turkish servant with a weapon.

Edward, first Earl, his ship blowing up at a distance.

In another, Lady Hinchinbroke, daughter of Alexander Popham, in white satin, holding a Prayer-book.

In another, the late Earl, in laced clothes, full length.

In another, Edward-Richard, Viscount Hinchinbroke, in jacket and frogs.

In another, John, Duke of Montague (second son of Ralph, first Duke), whole-lentil sitting.

Edward, first Earl of Sandwich.

John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester.

Ralph, Duke of Montague, three-quarters.

Edward, Viscount Hinchinbroke, as be'ore.

Sidney, second son of the first Earl of Sandwich, died 1727.

Richard, son of the second Earl of Sandwich, died 1697.

Sir Thomas, eldest son of Lord Crewe.

General Harvey, in armour, three-quarters. (Qu. John, uncle to the first Earl of Bristol, who died 1695 ?)

Hinchinbroke. 321

Charles Wilmot, son to the Earl of Rochester, in slashed sleeves and laced cravat. The late Earl of Sandwich, whole length, 64.

Over the Chimney.

Edward, first Earl of Sandwich.

In another room, Oliver, Protector.

Arabian horse and Turk.

Edward, son of John, Earl of Sandwich.

Mrs. Montague, a pretty face.

Edward, first Earl of Sandwich, when young.

Anna-Maria, Queen of Spain, habited as a nun, writing.

Charles II. of Spain in flowing hair, laced clothes, and hat.

In the hall with a wooden roof, a picture of Mrs. Rupert Howe.

In the bow-window, two quartered coats of Sir Oliver Cromwell, with ten quarterings impaling his wife, and Sir Oliver C. impaling, quarterly, i, 4, Hoofman, 2, 3, unknown, and an escutcheon of pretence unknown, crests of Williams, alias Cromwell, a demi-lion rampant holding a ring ; Bromley, a duck ; and Hoofman, a pair of wings.*

On the outside of another bow-window are the royal arms crowned, and supported by two angels between E.R. and the arms and port- cullis, and on the sides Matthew of Glamorganshire, or Morgan Williams, impaling Cromwell, and Williams impaling Mirfine.

In another such window are the rose of England and several shields of Williams, alias Cromwell.

Over another larger window, the royal arms of Tudor in a garter, crowned, supported, and with a motto. Below this window, Williams, alias Cromwell, with ten quarterings; motto, Sudore non sopore ; and

on the cornice above, Anno Domini 1602 ; O. C., and E ^ A, initials of Sir Oliver C. and his two wives, Elizabeth and Anne. Other shields of the Cromwell family, scattered about this window, are, with the rest, described or engraved by Mr. Noble, I. Appendix G., pp. 244, 248. R. G.

Yaxley.

[1798, Part I., p. 493.] I copied the following from Yaxley church, near Peterborough :

" Here lies the body of Thomas Squire, merchant, native and once inhabitant of this town, who, at his own expense, undertook to make the river here navigable from the city of Peterboro' to Islip, near Thrapoton, in the county of Northampton,

* These are the arms which were, by misinformation, said, in the 410. account of the Cromwell family, " Bibl. Brit. Top., No. xxxi., to have been destroyed in a drunken frolic ; which Mr. Noble procured the late Lord Snndwich to contradict in his preface to the second edition of his " Memoirs of the Protectorate House of Cromwell." 'VOL. XVII. .21

322 Huntingdonshire.

where he afterwards lived upwards of 20 years to see it answer his own wishes, as well as the expectations of the publick. He married Elizabeth, the daughter of John Wright, of Godmanchester, in this county, merchant, by whom he had 12 children, 3 of whom only survived ; and he died Feb. 20, 1759, aged 77.

Arms : S., a chevron engrailed between- three swans' heads erased arg. Q. P.

[1811, Part I., p. 415.]

The following inscription is taken from a tombstone in the churchyard at Yaxley, an explanation of which I request some one of your correspondents to favour me with.

" Sacred to the Memory of John M'Kay, late Private in the Fifth, or Ross-shire Militia, who died at Norman Cross, Sept. 1st, 1808, aged 17 years. Born in the Parish of Dornoch, County of Sutherland, Scotland.

' Chriochnaich mi nis mo chain's mo reis,

is dlu ahomh bas is uaiah ; M'anam a choisrig mi dhia, triallaidh gu neamh le buaiah."

" This stone was erected by his Parishioners."

A. M.

References to previous volumes of the Gentleman's Magazine Library : —

Ionian Remains .•— Folkesworth, Stilton, Water Newton.— Romano- British Remains, part i., pp. 138-141. Folklore: — Witchcraft at Huntingdon. — Popular Superstitions, p. 232.

Indexes.

INDEX OF NAMES.

Abbot (J.). monument of, 255

A Becket (St. Thomas), rectory of, 214

Abergavenny (H., Lord), portrait of,

174

Aboyne (Earl of), seat of, 306

Acre (loan de), birth of, 299 ; marriage of, 299

Adderley (T.), memorial of, 223

Adrian IV. (Pope), grants precedence to Abbots of St. Albans, 209

Aitken (J.), execution of, 12

Alabaster (Rev. W.), rectory of, 292

Albemarle (George, Duke of), manor of, 237

Alcelin (Dean of Lincoln), visits Mar- kate Cell, 259

Alexander (Bishop of Lincoln), conse- crates cell at Markate, 259

Alexander I., of Russia, visits Ports- mouth, 9

Alfred the Great engages with the Danes, 103, 211; defeats of, 6; burial-place of, 4 ; removal of bones of, 4

Algar sacks Hereford, 178

Alnwick (Bishop of Lincoln), buildings of, 316

Alswitha (Queen), removal of bones of,

Alton (W. of), flourished 1300 A.D., 9 Alwyn (Bishop of Winchester), accusa- tion against, 6

Ancaster (P., Duke of), manor of, 37 Andrews (R.), manors of, 80 ; marriage

of, 82

Anjou (Margaret of), lands at Ports- mouth, 8 ; marriage of, 8 ; takes sanctuary at Beaulieu, 8 ; castle of, 209; defeats Earl of Warwick, 211 Anna Maria (Queen of Spain), portrait of, 321

Anson (Commodore), seizes the Aca-

pulco, 318 Anson (Lord), the circumnavigator,

seat of, 214 Anzazim, attempt of, on life of Edward

I., 299

Aquablanc (Dean), monument of, 181 Aqua Blanca (Bishop), expelled by the

Barons, 161

Arkwright (R.), seat of, 160, 176 Arlington (Lord), removes alms-people

from St. Mary Magdalene Hospital

at Winchester, 137 Armstrong (T.), monument of, 34 Arthur (King), "Round Table" of,

138, 140 Arthur (Prince, son of Henry VII.),

birthplace of, 9 Arundel (E., Earl of), execution of,

161

Arundel (Hon. J. E.), manor of, 150 Ashfordby (J. , and family), memorial

of, 223 ; tomb of, 231 Athelstan (Bishop), builds Cathedral at

Hereford, 179 Athelstan (King), levies tribute on

Britons, 160, 178

Athelwold (Earl), catastrophe of, 117 Atherton (Lieutenant-Colonel), estate

of, 187

Atherton (Rev. A.), rectory of, 295 Atkinson (Rev. — ), rectory of, 114 Atkyns (Sir E.), residence of, 214 At Water (Will.), rectory of, 294 Aubrey (— ), seat of, 180 Aylward (T.), burial-place of, 83 Aylwin, foundation of, 305

Bache (S.), monumental brass of, 257 Bacon (F., Lord Verulam), monument of, 215

326

Index of Names.

Bacon (Sir N. }, residence of, 214; manor of, 275 ; builds mansion at Gorhambury, 275, 276 ; bust of, 278

Bacon (A., Viscount St. Albans), buildings of, 281 ; sells Gorhambury, 282

Bacon (Anthony), estate of, 280 ; secretary to Earl of Essex, 280

Bacon (Lady), residence of, 280

Bacon (Anne), marriage of, 283, 284

Baker (W.), seat of, 210

Baldock (R. ), birthplace of, 212

Banner (Brother R.), monumental brass of, 263

Barenger (R.), rent-charge of, 81

Baring (H. ), property of, 73

Baring (Sir T.J, seat of, 5

Barlow (Bishops W. and T. ), burial- place of, 307, 316

Barlow (Agatha), epitaph on, 62, 63

Barnard (J.), memorial of, 31

Barne (G.), tomb of, 230

Barnet (J.), birthplace of, 212

Barre (Sir J.), manor of, 256 ; marriage of, 256

Barrett (Rev. — ), memorial of, 34

Harrington (Sir J.), seat of, 5

Barrington (Bishop of Salisbury), archi- tecture of, 128

Barrington (Joan), marriage of, 286, 287

Barrington (Judith, Lady), monument

°f, 255

Barwick (Rev. Dr. J.), rectory of, 292 Basingstoke (fohn of), death of, 9 Basset (Major), portrait of, 176 Bassinburne (S. de), manor and juris- diction of, 227

Bateman (Lord), estate of, 188 Bateman (Frances), tomb of, 202 Beale (J.), birthplace of, 161 Beauchamp (H., Earl of), crowned

King of Isle of Wight, 8 Beauchamp (Guy de, Earl of Warwick),

manor of, 245

Beaufort (Cardinal), chantry of, 125 Beaufoy ( — ), residence of, 114 Beckwith (Josiah), reprints Blount's

works, 163

Bedyl (family of), manor of, 232 Bello .Loco (H. de), abbacy of, 45 ;

death of, 45 Belion (J.), memorial of, 49; manor

of, 50 ; residence of, 115 Benham (W. ), hostelry of, 143 Benn (W.), monument of, 301 Bennett (Captain), defeat of, 306

Bennett (R. H. A.), seat of, 5 Benson (Rev. G.), archdeaconry of,

191

Bereton (Rev. R.), rectory of, 115 Berri (Dame de), portrait of, 318 Bertie (Lady J.), marriage of, 82 Bickerton (Sir R.), seat of, 306 ; por- trait of, 317 Billers (Sir W.), monument of, 296 ;

manor of, 297 Billers (Dame Anne), monument of,

296

Billers (John), monument of, 296 Bilson (T., Bishop of Winchester),

birthplace of, 9

Bingham (R ), burial-place of, 84 Bingley (Rev. W.), restores Christ- church Priory, 57 Bisse (Bishop), monument of, 179 ;

buildings erected by, 179 Bisset (M.), seat of, 5 Blane (Eliz.), marriage of, 308 Bligh (Admiral), seat of, J Blois (H. de), escapes from Winches- ter, 7 ; buildings erected by, 23, 24, 89, 148, 149 ; burial-place of, 4 Blood ( — ), residence of, 151 Blount (Sir H.), birthplace of, 212 Blount (T.), birthplace of, 161 ; burial- place of, 163

Blucher (Marshal), visits Portsmouth, 9 Blunden (E. ), marriage of, 37 Blunden (W. ), residence of, 37; arms

of, 39 Boadicea (Queen), destroys Verulam,

211

Bodenham (C.),seat of, 160 Bolton (D. of), patronage of, 37 ; bene- faction of, 84 Bolton (Lord), seat of, J Bonham (D. ), memorial of, 33 Bonner ( — ), purchases Eccleswall

Castle, 172 Booth (Bishop), monument of, 181 ;

buildings erected by, 182 Bosanquet (J.), seat of, 210 Bossu (R.), receives grant of earldom,

178

Bostock (J.), birthplace of, 212 Boucherett (Ayscough), seat of, 316 Bourchier (H.). residence of, 259;

buildings erected by, 259, 260 Bourchier (J.), birthplace of, 212 Bourchier (Sir T.), manor of, 256 Bowles (Colonel), defeat of, 9 Boyes (Ann), memorial of, 31 Bradston (Rev. V.), rectory of, 115

Index of Names.

327

Brand (Hon. T.), seat of, 210 Bray (R. ), marriage of, 82 Brekespere (N.), birthplace of, 212 Bretagns (J., Duchess of), marriage of, 8 Breteville (R. de), death of, 178 Breteville (W. de), overcome bv Henry

I., 6

Brett (Sir Percy), action of, 318 Brett (Ursula), tomb of, 231 Brewias (Sir VV. ), benefaction of, 164 Brinse (Bishop Giles), buildings erected

by, i?9 Bristow (N.), manor of, 217; portrait

of, 217

Bristow (N., and wife), tomb of, 217 Broadwood ( — ), seat of, 210 Brograve (Joan), marriage of, 287 Bromwich (Eliz.), marriage of, 165 Broughton (R. ), birthplace of, 306 Brown (L.), seat of, 306 Brown (Rev. — ), seat of, 210 Browne (Henry), seat of, 210 Browne (Rev. W.), rectory of, 295 Brownrigg (Dr.), bishopric of, 314 Bruce (D., King of Scots), imprison- ment of, 8 Bruges (family of), reputed monument

of, 1 66

Bruhl (Hon. T. B.), seat of, 210 Bruton (J., and wife), burial-place of, 169 Bryan (Sir F.), orchards and gardens of,

267

Brygate (Rev. E. ), rectories of, 294 Buckingham (G. V., Duke of), slabbed

by Kelton, 8 ; cenotaph for, 12 ;

burial-place and tomb of, 26 Buckingham (Marquess of), seat of, 5 Bullpen (H.), churchwarden of Old

Alresford, 32

Buonaparte (N.), imprisonment of, 9 Burbage (family of), manor of, 232 Burgess (A.), birthplace of, 212 Burghill (family of), monuments of, 196 Burghill (Philibert), monument of, 196 Burleigh (Cecil, Lord), seat of, 215 Burley (Rev. F. ), rectory of, 295 Burrow (Rev. J.), rectory of, 78 Burrows ( — ), seat of, 210 Burton (Rev. J.), rectory of, 294 Bush (J.), tomb of, 230 Bute (J., Earl of), rebuilds mansion at

Luton, 262

Butt (W.), seat of, 210 Byde (T. H.), seat of, 210

Caducanus (Bishop of Bangor), burial- place of, 169

Calvert (F.), residence of, 252 Calvert (N.), seat of, 210, 252 Calwe (Sir W.), monument of, 192 Cambridge (Earl of), execution of, 8 Campbell (Colonel), seat of, 5 Cantilupe (W. de), guardianship of, 184 Canute (Tving), burial-place of, 4 Capel (A., Lord), birthplace of, 212 ;

memorial of, 214 Caractacus, defeat of, 160 Carey (Sir R.), reference to memoirs of,

243

Carleton (A.), monument of, 255 Carnac (General), seat of, 28 Carnarvon ( Earl of), seat of, 5 Carpenter (J.), birthplace of, 161 Carter (Eliz.), monument of, 297 Carter (Miss), gifts of, to Kingsclere

Church, 84

Carteret (Captain), burial-place of, 12 Carteret (Jemima), portrait of, 319 Cartier (J., and wife), tomb of, 231 Cartwright (Frances, Lady), portrait of,

3i8

Cartwright (T.), birthplace of, 212

Cary (H.), birthplace of, 212

Carysfort (Earl of), seat of, 306

Casamajor (J.), seat of, 210

Cassey (Sir J.), monumental brass of, 286

Castile (I. of), burial-place of, 209 ; removal of remains of, 209

Caswall (G.), seat of, 10

Catharine of Arragon (Queen), retire- ment of, 305

Catharine of Portugal, marriage of, 9

Catharine of France, castle of, 209

Catharine (C2ueen of Charles II.), join- ture of, 187

Cavan (Karl of), seat of, 5

Cave (Sir R.) surrenders Hereford, 161

Cecil (R., first Karl of Salisbury) enter- tains James I., 215, 234; estates of, 234 ; builds Hatfield House, 249 ; monument of, 214

Cecil (VV., Lord Burleigh), seat of, 215 ; manor of, 232-244; estates of, 232 ; entertains Queen Elizabeth 239-244 ; death of, 244

Cecd (Sir R.), the "heremite of Ty- bole," residence of, 241 ; correspond- ence of, with Queen Elizabeth, 241-

243

Cecil (Lady A.), marriage of, 240 Cecil (Lady M.), portrait of, 177 Cecil (family of), pedigree of, 238

328

Index of Names.

Cerdic establishes kingdom of Wessex,

Cha'mber (Rev. T.). rectory of, 294 Chamberlain (— ), estate of, 89 Chandois (family of), estates of, 164 Charles I. at Carisbrooke, 9, 12 ; at

Hurst, 9; at Titchficld.9 ; residence

of, 235 ; takes Huntingdon, 306 ;

visits Little Gidding, 308 Charles II., marriage of, 9; fences in

" Rufus' oak," 95 ; residence of, 120 ;

grants estate to Lord Bateman, 188 ;

plot against, 212

Charles II., of Spain, portrait of, 321 Charles V. (Emperor) embarks for

Spain, 8 ; portrait of, 318 Charlton (Lewis), foundation of, 195 ;

monument of, 195, 196 Chauncy (Sir II.), birthplace of, 212;

historian of Herts, 215 Chauncy (I.), birthplace of, 212 Chicheley (Rev. J.), rectories of, 294 Chidiock (family of), tomb of, 55 Cholmley (M.), tomb of, 231 Christina of Huntingdon, nunnery of,

258, 259

Christina, governess to Queen Ma- tilda, 4

Chute (T. L.), estate of, 38 Chute (W.), seat of, 5 Cinegils (King of Wessex), foundation

of, 3 ; burial-place of, 4 Clagett (Dr. W.), sermon by, 222 Clare (Eliz. de), foundation of, 215 ;

burial-place of, 215 Clare (Gilbert de, Ear! of Gloucester),

marriage of, 299

Clarendon (Karl of), seat of, 2IO Clark (H. M.), ponrait of, 320 Clarke (Eliz.), burial-place of, 50 Clemence ( — ), manor of, 77 Cleveland (Duchess of), portrait of,

>75

Clifford (Rosamund), birthplace of, 161 Clifford (W. de), benefaction of, 169,

Clinton (W.) obtains grant of earldom, 306

Clive (C.), birthplace of, 161

Clive (Lady), seat of, 185

Cobham (Lord), trial of, 8

Cockburn (Admiral Sir G.) takes Napo- leon to St. Helena, 9

Cogan (E.), marriage of, 152

Coke (J.), marriage of, 287

Colbrand, defeat of, 6

Cole (Rev. R.), rectory of, 78

Collington (A.), monumental brass of,

247

Collins (C.), estate of, 46 Collins (Jane), memorial of, 47 Coningsby (Earl), portraits of, 174,

'75, '77 ! scal °f> 1 80 Coningsby (F.), portrait of, 177 Coningsby (Indies M. and F.), por- traits of, 177

Coningsby (P.), portrait of, 174 Coningsby (Sir T. ), birthplace of, 161 ; burial place of, 162, 163 ; portraits of, 174

Coningsby (T. ), effigy of, 175 Coningsby (family of), arms of, 174 ;

manor of, 187 Cooke (J.), tomb of, 230 Cooke (J.), administrator to Sir B.

Tope, 1 8

Cope (Sir R.), seat of, 5 Coppin (J.), erects chapel at Markate,

259

Coppin (T.), estate of, 259 Cordell (G. F.), burial-place of, 247 Cork (R., Earl of), portrait of, 175 Cornwall (R., Earl of), death of, 211 Cornwall (E.), monument of, 164 Cornwall (Eliz., Lady), monument of,

164

Cornwall (Sir G.), seat of, 160 Cornwall (I.), birthplace of, 161 Cornwall (V.), seat of, 180 ; monument

of, 1 80

Corrie (J.), seat of, 210 Cotterel (Sir J. G.), seat of, 160, 166 Cotton (F.), burial-place of, 115 Cotton (H., Bishop of Salisbury),

birthplace of, 9

Cotton (Dr. N.), burial-place of, 215 Cotton (Sir R.), birthplace of, 306 ;

monument of, 307 Cotton (R.), burial-place of, 115 Cotton (S. ), tomb of, 247 Courtnay (Eliz.), portraits of, 318, 320 Coventry (Rev. R.), rectories of, 294 Coward (W.), birthplace of, 9 Cowdrey (P.), seat of, 36 Cowper (Earl), seat of, 2IO Cowper (H.), seat of, 210 Cowper (W. ), birthplace of, 212, 22O ;

memorial of, 47 Craig (J.), tomb of, 230 Creswell (R.), tomb of, 2OI Croft (Rev. J.), rectory of, 220 Croke (Frances), marriage of, 82 Cromwell (Eliz.), birthplace of, 306 ;

monument of 84

Index of Names.

329

Cromwell (Sir H.), birthplace of, 306 ;

residences of, 306 Cromwell (Oliver), storms Basing

House, 9 ; dismantles Winchester

Castle, 119 ; destroys Wolvesey, 148 ;

manor of, 237 ; birthplace of, 306 ;

portraits of, 320, 321 Cromwell (Sir O.), birthplace of, 306,

317 ; entertains James I., 317 ; arms

of, 321

Cromwell (R. ), birthplace of, 306 ; re- sidence of, n; manor of, 316;

burial-place of, II Crook (J. C.)i seat of, 5 Crophull (Sir J.), manor of, 164 Crowther (Rev. R.), monument of, 189,

190

Crowther (family of), estate of, 187 Cumberland (Duke of), residence of, II Cumberland (W., Duke of), portrait of,

3>9

Curtis (W.), birthplace of, 9 Cutler (family of), estate of, 187 Cuyler (Sir C ), seat of, 210

Dacre (T.), patronage of, 78

D'Amboyse (Bussy), portrait of, 255

Dance ( — ), residence of, 28

Dartmouth (Earl of), marriage of, 37

Davenport (Ann), memorial of, 32, 33

David (King of Scotland) besieges Win- chester, 148

Davies (I.), mouument of, 190

Davies (J.), birthplace of, 161 ; monu- ment of, 190

Dawes (Sir W. , Archbishop of York), sermon by, 221

Dawkins ( — ), manor of, 81

Deane (Sir J,), benefaction of, 38 ; arms of, 39

Deane ( — ), benefaction of, 222

De Foix, tomb of, 125

Deggon (Rev. S.), chapelry of, 41

De la Barr (family of), monument of, 165

De la Hay (family of), memorials of, 198

Delamere (Abbot), monumental brass of, 263 ; buildings of, 267, 268

De la Mote (Abbot), buildings of, 267

Delawar (J., Lord), erects monument in memory of W. Rufus, 93, 94

de 1'Enclos (Nina), portrait of, 320

Delme (J.), seat of, 5

Delme ( — ), residence of, 28

Delme Radcliffe (E. H.), seat of, 210

Denbigh (S., Countess of), monument

of, 97

Dennis (S.), memorial of, 49 Dent ( — ), seat of, 210 Devereux (R., Earl of Essex), monu- ment of, 162

Devereux (Sir S.), manor of, 167 Devereux (family of), reputed monu- ment of, 165 ; manor of, 165 ; descent of, 179 De Walford (family of), burial-place of,

203

Dibden (C.), birthplace of, 9 Dickens (family of), monuments of, 64 Dickin (F.), memorial of, 64 Digby (Mrs.), house of, 153 Diggle (family of), estate of, 151 ; monu- mental brasses of, 152, 153 Dike (L>.), birthplace of, 212 Dike (J. ), birthplace of, 212 Dimsdale (Dr.) takes charge of Bishop's

Stortford library, 221 Dineley (E. ), marriage of, 168 Dixie (Sir W. ), birthplace of, 306 Dixon (N.), birthplace of, 212 Dogard (Rev. S.), rectory of, 115 Dolben (Dr.), Bishop of Rochester, 289 Dolman (T.), tomb of, 201 Domvile (Sir W.), seat of, 210 Dorchester (Lord), patronage of, 86 Dorrien (T.), scat of, 210 Dorset (J., Earl of) purchases manor of

Theobalds for James I., 234 Downes (Rev. J.), memorial of, 65 Draper (J.), chantry of, 54, 55 Drayton (R. de), benefactions of, 77 Drummond (A.), seat of, 5 Drummond (H.), seat of, 5 Duberley (J.), seat of, 306 Duke (I.), tomb of, 296 Duncombe (J.), birthplace of, 212 Duncombe (W.), birthplace of, 212 Dunton (J.), birthplace of, 306 Durell (Dr.), deanery of, 289

Eadburga (Abbess) presents leaden

coffin to St. Guthlac, 100 Eades (M.), memorial of, 30 Eaton (Adam de), birthplace of, 162 Eaton (Rev. S. ), rectories of, 295 ;

archdeaconry of, 295 Ebden (Dr. J.), memorial of, 137 ;

burial-place of, 137 Edgar (King) imposes tribute on Welsh,

6, 148 ; buildings of, 23 ; offering

of, 103 Edgecumbe (A., Lady), portrait of, 319

330

Index of Names.

Edington (Bishop), chantry of, 128, 129

Edred, burial-place of, 4

Edward the Confessor, coronation of, 6 ; repairs Romsey Abbey, 23

Edward the Elder, foundation of, 4, 23, 103 ; builds Hereford, 178 ; burial- place of, 4

Edward I., defeat of, 7 ; charters granted by, 245 ; expedition of, 299 ; attempted assas>ination of, 299

Edward II., deposition of, 161, 211

Edward III. sails for France, 7, 8

Edward IV., portrait of, 177

Edward VI., residence of, 214; sells St. Alban's Abbey to the inhabi- tants, 264

Edward the Black Prince sails for France, 7, 8 ; residence of, 218

Edwards (Brian), residence and burial- place of, 12

Edwards (C. P.), memorial of, 32 ; tomb of, 33

Edwards (J.), memorial of, 32

Edwards (J.), birthplace of, 212

Edwards (K.), memorial of, 33

Edwin (M., Lady Uering), birthplace of, 162

Edwy, burial-place of, 4

Egbert (King), coronation of, 6 ; burial-place of, 4

Eleanor (Queen of Henry II.), burial- place of, 4

Eleanor (Queen of Edward I.), death of, 300 ; crosses erected in memory of, 300

Elfleda (Abbess), burial-place of, 305

Klfrida (Queen), foundation of, 4, 116

Elizabeth (Queen) repairs Carisbrooke, 154; portrait of, 174; residence of, 214; entertained at Theobalds, 233, 239, 240, 242-244 ; at Gorhambury, 277-280 ; grants charier to Thetford, 278 ; correspondence of, with Sir R. Cecil, 241-243

Elizabeth (daughter of Edward IV.), portrait of, 174

Elizabeth (daughter of Charles I.), burial-place of, 12

Ellenborough (Edward, Lord), manor of, 297

Ellice (Rev. P.), rectory of, 257 ; tomb of, 257

Elliot (M.), memorial of, 45

Ellyot (family of), manor of, 232

Elton (H.), seat of, 5

Elton (Mary), monument of, 192

Ely (II.), birthplace of, 162

Ely (Rev. T.), rectory of, 295 Emma (Queen), death of, 6 ; burial- place of, 4

Errington (H.), seat of, 5 Essex (Earl of), seats of, 160, 187, 2IO Essex (Frances, Countess of), portrait

of, 176 Ethelbert (King), tomb of, 159 ; murder

of, 1 60, 178, 196 Ethelmar (Bishop), monument of, 131 ;

tomb of, 142

Ethelred (King) defeated by Danes, 6 ; stands sponsor to King Olaus, 6 ; massacres Danes, 6 Ethelwald (Bishop), birthplace of, 9 Ethelward (Prince), removal of bones

of, 4

Ethel wulf (King) establishes tithes, 6 Etheringham (S. ), tomb of, 230 Etough (Rev. H.), rectory of, 292; buildings erected by, 292 ; marriage of, 293 ; benefaction of, 293 ; burial- place and monument of, 293 Evans (E.), seat of, 1 68 Evans (J., and family), memorial of, 77 Evans (Rev. P.), rectory of, 78 i Evans (Rev. R.), manor of, 187; patronage of, 1 88 ; monument of, 190 Evans (Rev. W.), rectory of, 188 Evans (Major), seat of, 164, 189 i Evelyn (S., and wife), burial-place of,

"3

Everdon (S. de) begins choir at Beau- lieu, 45

Everton (S. de), birthplace of, 306 Ewias (R., Earl of), foundation of, 169,

171

Eyles (family of), burial-place of, 65 Eyre (Lady D.), monument of, 113 Eyre (Rev. — ), residence of, 28

Fallo (Rev. P.), rectory of, 215 I Fanshaw (Sir R.), birthplace of, 212 : Fanshaw (Sir W.), burial-place of, 215 Fanshawe (Lord), manor of, 245 Farlington (J. de), benefactions of, 77 Felbrigge (Sir S.), monument of, 286 Fellowes (W. H.), seat of, 306 Felton(Lady E.), portrait of, 177 Felton stabs Duke of Buckingham, 8, 9 Ferrar (Sir N. ), residence of, 308 Ferrars (G.), birthplace of, 212 ; manor

of, 245 ; estates of, 259 Ferrars (Sir J.), manor of, 245 Ferrars (K. ), manor of, 245 Ferrars (R., Earl of), benefaction of, 171 Ferriby (Rev. — ), residence of, 290

Index of Names.

Field (E.), tomb of, 230 Field (R., Dean of Gloucester), birth- place of, 212

Filmer (Rev. Sir J. ), seat of, 210 Fishbourn (R. ), birthplace of, 306 Fisher (M.), marriage of, 82 Fitzharris (Lady), monument of, 57 FitzGsborne (W.) created an earl, 178 Fitzwarane (Isabel, and family), mar- riages of, 184

Fitzwarane (\V. ), marriage of, 184 Fitzwilliam (H.j, marriage of, 240 Fitzwilliam (Sir W., and Lady), por- trait of, 175

Flambard (Dean), buildings of, 13 Flanders (M. of), marriage of, 4 Fleming (Colonel), seat of, no Fleming (Mrs.), seat of, 5; marriage

of, no

Flemyng (Sir T. ), monument of, 12 Foley (E.), seat of, 160 Foley (T.), seat of, 180 Foot (J.), estate of, 168 Foote, the comedian, visits Duke of

Cumberland, II Ford (H.), monument of, 182 Fordham (W.), estate of, 291 ; mar- riage of, 291 ; tomb of, 288 Forfette ([.), monument of, 98 Forster (Sir T.), monument of, 214 Fortescue (Eliz. ), marriage of, 251 Fowke (Sir B. ), tomb of, 246 Fox (Right Hon. C. J.), marriage of, 308 Fox (R., Bishop of Winchester) estab- lishes Guild of the Holy Ghost, 37, 41 ; tomb of, 121, 142 ; chantry of, 125 Fox (Rev. W.), discovery of British

remains by, 153

France (John of) entertained at Hert- ford, 209 Frederic (Abbot of St. Albans) imposes

oath on William I., 211 Frederick, William III., visits Ports- mouth, 9

Fromond (J.), benefaction of, 137 Fuller (N. ), birthplace of, 9

Gaddesden (J. de), birthplace of, 212 Gale (R.), monumental brass of, 152 Garbett (Colonel W.), seat of, 191 ;

patronage of, 192 Gardener (A.), memorial of, 30 Gardiner (Sir J. W. S.), seat of, 5 Gardiner (Bishop), chantry of, 125 Gardiner (family of), arms of, 297 ;

estate of, 298

Garrick (D.), birthplace of, 162 Gaunt (J. of) entertains prisoners at

Hertford, 209

Gaussen (S. R.), seat of, 210 Gaveston (Piers), burial-place of, 209 Gaytcliffe. (Rev. J.), rectory of, 294 Geoffrey (Abbot of St. Albans), build- ings of, 265

George IV. visits Buckden, 316 Gerrard (C. D.), seat of, 210 Gerthinge (R.), birthplace of, 162 Gibbon the historian, residence of, 12 Gibson (M.), burial-place of, 162 Gibson (Rev. W.), rectories of, 295 Gilbert (E.), burial-place of, 260 Gilbert (J. and M.), burial-place of, 261 Giles (D. ), seat of, 211 Giles (J.), birthplace of, 213 Gilpin (Rev. W.), rectory of, n Glendower (Owen), defeat of, 161 ;

burial-place of, 159

Gloucester (H., Duke of), burial-place of, 209 ; discovery of remains of, 215, 263 ; tomb of, 263

Gloucester (R., Earl of), lands at Ports- mouth, 7 ; taken prisoner at Stock- bridge, 7 ; besieges Winchester, 148 Glowcester (Rev. R.), rectory of, 294 Goddard (Rev. Dr.), erects church at

Andover, 35

Godescall of Cacklington takes Chris- tina to Archbishop of York, 258 Godric (Abbot), imprisonment of, 172 Godwin (Dr. F.), bishopric of, 190;

burial-place of, 163 Godwin (Paul), admitted Doctor of

Divinity, 190 Godwin (T. ), admitted Doctor of

Divinity, 191 Gomond (family of), burial-place of,

185

Goodchild (R.), farm of, 150 Goodere (Sir E.), M.P. for Evesham and Hereforshire, 168 ; marriage of, 168

Goodere (Sir H.), imprisonment of, 167 Goodere (Sir J. D.), murder of, i6S Goodere (Captain Sam. D.), murders his brother, 168; trial and execu- tion of, 1 68

Goodere (family of), mansion of, 167 Goodwin (Earl), death of, 6 Gordon (Sir A.), victory of, 7 Gorges (B.), portrait of, 175 Gorham (Abbot R. de), buildings of at St. Alban's, 264 ; alienates manor of Gorhambury, 275

332

Index of Names.

Gorham (N.), birthplace of, 213 Gough (R.), monument of, 215 Gough ( — ), residence of, 238 Granderson (J., Bishop of Exeter),

birthplace of, 162 Graves ([.), birthplace of, 9 Gray (Rev. J. ), rectory of, 294 Gray (J.), epitaph on, 252 Green (Bishop), residence of, 315 ;

burial-place of, 307 ; cenotaph for,

3'6

Green (T. A.), seat of, 210 Grey (Sir A.), monumental brass of,

263

Grey (Sir Thos.), execution of, 7 Grey (Lady J.), portrait of, 175 Grey (Bishop of Lincoln), buildings of,

316; death of, 316 Grey of Groby (Sir J.), death of, 211 Grey de Wilton (Lord), trial of, 8 Griffin (Rev. T.), tomb of, 230 Grigge (J.), burial-place of, 247 Grimston (Sir H. ), marriage of, 284 ;

estate of, 284

Grimston (Hon. Miss), seat of, 210 Grosstete (Bishop K.), palace of, 310 Gryffydd (Prince of Wales), sacks

Hereford, 1 60, 178 Guidott (T.), birthplace of, 9 Guillim (J.), birthplace of, 162 Guming (Dr.), bishoprics of, 289 Gunsty (Rev. Dr.), curacy of, 245 Gunter (K.), birthplace of, 213 Guthrum the Dane, engages in battle

with King Alfred, 103 Guymond (Prior), buildings of, at

Oxford, 14

Guyse (J.), birthplace of, 213 Gwinkle (General), portrait of, 177 Gwynne (E.), birthplace of, 162 Gwynne (General), seat of, 5 Gyles (Rev. J.), curacy of, 169

Hackluyt (R.), birthplace of, 162 Haddam (Earl of), birthplace of, 213 Hale (K.), birthplace of, 213 Haley (K.), memorial of, 247 Haliburton (D. ), seat of, 210 Halifax (Lord), portrait of, 318 Hall (Ann), monument of, 188 Halsey (J.), seat of, 210 Ham (J.), memorial of, 257 Hamilton (K , Lady), birthplace of, 9 Hammond (Colonel), gaoler of Charles

I., 9

Hanbury (C.), marriage of, 180 Hanbury (\V.), seat of, 160, 188

Hanbury Williams (Sir C.), portrait of,

176

Hanway {J.), birthplace of, 9 Hardicanute, burial-place of, 4 Hardwicke (Earl of), seat of, 210 Harford (Mrs.), portrait of, 176 Harley (Lord High Treasurer), founda- tion of, 162 ; burial-place of, 162 Harley (Auditor), foundation of, 162;

burial-place of, 162 Harley (Hon. E.), biithplace of, 162 Harley (Sir R.), birthplace of, 204 ;

forester of Bringwood Chase, 204 Harley (Hon. Miss), restores monument

in Kington Church, 191 Harley (family of), castle of, 203 Harman (Captain N.), burial-place of,

"5

Harold (King), fences Hereford, 178 Harrington (R., Countess of Bedford),

seat of, 214

Harris (E.), memorial of, 31 Harris (M.), monumental brass of, 264 Harris (family of), memorial of, 31 Harrison (M.), monument of, 255 Harrison (Rev. J.), rectory of, 115 Harrison (Rev. — ), rectory of, 47 Harrye (R. ), chantry of, 54 Hartfall (A.), memorial of, 75 Harvey (General), portrait of, 320 Havard (W.), birthplace of, 162 Hawke (Admiral Lord), monument of,

12

Hawkins (G.), monument of, 46 Haygarth (Rev. J.), rectory of, III Hayward (A.), memorial of, 47 Hazeland ( — ), mastership of, 223 Heathcote (Sir W.), seat of, 5 Helyar (E.), marriage of, 152 HelyarfJ.), monument of, 152 Henbury (P. de), seat of, 172 Henrietta Maria (Queen), portraits of,

176, 318

Henley (Lord), seat of, 210 Henry I., foundation of, 4; victory

of, 6 Henry II., dismantles Wolvesey Castle,

148

Henry III., birthplace of, 10 ; founda- tion of, 92

Henry IV., marriage of, 8 j portraits of, 174, 177 ; keeps court at Hert- ford, 211 Henry V., conspiracy against, 8 ;

victory of, over Welsh, 161 Henry VI., marriage of, 8, 108 ; im- prisonment of, 211

Index of Names,

333

Henry VII., portrait of, 175

Henry VIII., residence of, 261 ; statue

of, 278 Hertford (Abbot John of), buildings

erected by, 265

Hervey (Lady A.), portrait of, 319 Heysham (Jane), burial-place of, 261 Heysham (R. T.), seat of, 210 Heysham (W.), burial-place of, 261 Heyworth (Abbot), chamber and

cloister of, 267, 268 Hickes (Geo.), deanery of, 74 Hickes (J.), execution of, 74 Hicks (Mary), executed for witchcraft,

3°7

Hide (John of), flourished 1284 A.D., 10

Highmore (N.), birthplace of, 10

Hill (M.), burial-place of, 113

Hill (R.), birthplace of, 213

Hinchinbroke (E. K., Viscount), por- trait of, 318

Hinchinbroke (A., Viscountess), por- trait of, 318, 319

Hoadly (Rev. Dr.), rectory of, 32

Hobson (Admiral), birthplace of, 10

Holding (M.), marriage of, 7 ; gifts of, to Kingsclere Church, 84

Holder (Rev. Dr.), rectory of, 292

Holland (Lady), seat of, 5

Holland (D.), tomb of, 202

Hollingsworth (J.), seat of, 297

Holmes (Sir L. T. W.), seat of, 5

Hood (Lord), seat of, 27

Hooke (J., and wife), burial-place of,

5°. Si

Hooke (M.), burial-place of, 51 Hooke (R.), birthplace of, 10 Hooker (W., and wife), memorial of,

78

Hopkins (J.), monument of, 46 Hopkins (M.), monument of, 46 Hopkins (Sergeant), entertains James

I., 163

Hopkinson (Rev. J.), rectory of, 309 Hopton (Lord), besieges Winchester,

«37 Horsley (Rev. J.), rectory of, 295 ;

monument of, 296 Horsley (Rev. Dr. S.), rectory of, 295 ;

bishoprics of, 295

Hoskins (Sir H.), seat of, 160, 170 Hoskins (Sir J.), memorial of, 170;

entertains James I., 171 Hotoft (J.), tomb of, 256; manor of,

256 House (J.), stewardship of, 301

House (W.), burns down Rufus' oak,

96

Howard (J.), estate of, 259 Howard the philanthropist, residence

of, 12

Howe (J.), monument of, 296 Howe (Mrs. R.), portrait of, 321 Hudson (Sir J.), portrait of, 235 Hughes (Dr. J.), rectory and arch- deaconry of, 190 ; monument of, 189 Hughes (Rear-Admiral), portrait of,

318

Hulle (P.), mayoralty of, 146, 147 Hulse (Sir E.), seat of, 5 Humphreys (Bishop), portrait of, 188 Humphry (J.), birthplace of, 213 Hungerford (Sir Giles), marriage of, 82 Huntingdon (Gregory of), birthplace of,

306 Huntingdon (Henry of), birthplace of,

306

Hunton (P.), birthplace of, 10 Hyde (L. ), portrait of, 177

Incent (J., Dean of St. Paul's), birth- place of, 213

Insula (R. de), manor of, 309

Iremonger (J.), seat of, 116

Iremonger (Rev. — ), memorial of, 131, 132

Ireton (General), portrait of, 320

Isabella (Queen of Edward II.), in- trigues of, 16 1

Isabella ("she-wolf of France"), in- trigues of, 7

Ivo (Archbishop), burial-place of, 305

Jacob (Giles), birthplace of, 10 Jackson (Rev. J.), memorial of, 49 James I., proclamation of, 7; con- spiracy against, 8 ; entertained at Ingeston, 163; at Theobalds, 215; residence of, 235 ; visits Hinchin- broke, 317 ; death of, 212, 237 ; portrait of, 255 James II., portrait of, 177 James (R.), birthplace of, 10 James (T.), birthplace of, 10 Janeway (J.), birthplace of, 213 Jeffries (Judge), cruelties of, 9 Jennings (S., Duchess of Marlborough),

birthplace of, 213 Jennings (—), restores Kington Church,

191 Jenvey (W.), churchwarden of Romsey,

99 Jervoise(Sir S. E.), seat of, S, 82

334

Index of Names.

Jervoise (Sir T.), seat of, 82 Jervoise (J.), seat of, 36, 82 Jervoise (K.), seat of, 82 Joan of Scotland, death of, 211 Joanne (Duchess of Bretagne), marriage

of, 8 John (King), negotiates with the Pope,

7 ; foundation of, 44 ; benefactions

of, 171

Johnson (Dr. S-), epitaph on, 115, 116 Joliffe ( — ), seat of, 27 Jones (Lady C.), portrait of, 177 Jones (Lady F. ), portrait of, 175 Jones (Dr.), archdeaconry of, 185 Jones (Sarah), tomb of, 231 Jourville (Comte de), tomb of, 31 Justice ( — ), lodging of, 267

Kaye(Bishop), buildings of, at Buckden,

3'S

Keen (Rev. R.), vicarage of, 224

Keith (Lord), seat of, 5

Kempenfelt (Admiral), cenotaph for, II

Ken (Bishop T.), birthplace of, 213

Kenewahl, palace of, 150

Kenrick (W.), birthplace of, 213

Kent (Edmund, Earl of), execution

of, 7

Keyling (P.), monument of, 255 Kildare (Countess of), portrait (if,

176

Kilpec (Egidid), marriage of, 184 Kilpec (II.), seat of, 184 ; fine inflicted

on, 184

Kilpec (John de), charter of, 184 Kilvert ( — ), levies execution at Buck- den Palace, 314 Kinegils (King), palace of, 150 King (Sir J.), birthplace of, 213 King (James), monument of, 114 King (T.), burial-place of, I Id Kingsmill (Sir R.), seat of, 5 Kingston (Dowager Lady), seat of, 5 Knight (J.), monument of, 34 Knight (R. Payne), seat of, 160, 204; writings of, 162, 204 ; estates of, 203 ; burial-place of, 162 Knight (Rev. Dr.), monument of, 307 Kyrle (J.), birthplace of, 162 ; monu- ment of, 163

Lacy (C.), benefaction of, 164 Lacy (Lady M.), foundation of, 164 Lacy (M. de), manor of, 165 Lake (J.), memorial of, 30 Lakes (A., Bishop of Bath and Wells), birthplace of, 10

Lambert (T.), manor of, 82 ; marriage

of, 82 Lambert (family of), manor of, 81 ;

mansion erected by, 81 Lancaster (Sir J.), benefaction of, 38 ;

arms of, 39

Landon (Rev. J.), tomb of, 202 Lang (E. W. and N.), tombs of, 230 Langley (E.), birthplace of, 213;

burial-place of, 209 Langton (Cardinal), tomb of, 142 Lansdowne (Marquess of), castle of,

1 08

Latham (W.), seat of, 103 Latour (Captain), seat of, 210 Lawerd (W., and wife), monumental

brass of, 152

Lawes (J. B.), seat of, 210 Lawford (J.), seat of, no Lawrance (S.), birthplace of, 162 Lawson (Sir R.), benefaction of, 96 Lee (Joyce), marriage of, 151 Lee (N.), birthplace of, 213 Leech ( — ), property of, 113 Leffe (Rev. Dr.), chapelry of, 41 Legat (H.), birthplace of, 213 Leigh (T. ), foundation of. 221; por- trait of, 222 Leof4ane (Abbot), grant of manor by,

222, 244

Leominster (W.), birthplace of, 162 Leonard ( — ), lodging of, 267 Levtn (Earl of), attacks Hereford, 161 Leventhorp (J.), manor of, 286 ; marriage of, 286 ; M.P. for Herts, 286 ; tomb of, 285

Leventhorp (J., the younger), obtains

grant of market from Henry VI., 286

Leventhorp (family of), monumental

brasses of, 284-287 Lewis the Dauphin, victory of, 7 Lilly ( — ), marriage of, 291 Lily (W.), birthplace of, 10 Limbery (J.), seat of, 113; tithes of,

>53

Lmdoe (S.), tomb of, 231 Line (R.), reputed brass of, 98 Lisburne (M., Countess of), portrait of,

3'8

Lisburne (Lady), portrait of, 177 Lisle (Lady A.), harbours Noncon- formist ministers, 73 ; execution of, 74

Lisle (A.), execution of, 10 ; burial- place of, 1 1

Lisle (J.), sits in judgment on Charles I., 73; assassination of, 73

Index of Names.

335

Lock (J.)i discovery of Roman remains

by, 154 Lockman (Rev. Dr.), improvements of,

at St. Cross, 25

Loftus (Sir A.), portrait of, 177 Longmore (E.) birthplace of, 162 Lovell (W.j, marriage of, 251 Lowndes (Secretary), portrait of, 176 Lowth (R., Bishop of London), birth- place of, 10

Lucius (King), tomb of 121 Ludlow (Earl), seat of, 306 Lyde (family of), manor of, 217

M'Kay (J.), tomb of, 322

Mackenzie ( — ), seat of, 210

Mac Murrough (O.), arms of, 251 ;

marriage of, 252 Major (D.), marriage of, 84 Malmesbury (Earl of), seat of, 5 Manchester (Duke of), seat of, 306 ;

burial-place of, 307 Manchester (H., Earl of), burial-place

of, 3°7

Mandeville (Sir J.), birthplace of, 213 Mapletoft (J.), birthplace of, 306 Mapps (M.), centenarian, 163 Marbury (Sir J.), shrievalty of, 166 ;

reputed monument of, 166 Marbury (Eliz.), marriage of, 165 March (M., Earl of), intrigues of, 7 Margaret of Anjou (Queen), marriage

of, 8, 108

Marlborough (Duke of), portrait of, 177 Marlborough (S., Duchess of), portrait

of, 318

Marsden (W.), seat of, 2IO Marshall (S.), birthplace of, 307 Marshall (W., Earl of Pembroke),

estate of, 172

Marten (G. S.), seat of, 210 Mary (Queen), marriage of, 8 ; resi- dence of, 214

Mary of Modena, portrait of, 318 Mason (J., and wife), tomb of, 231 Mason (R.), tomb of, 201 Mason (W.), tomb of, 202 Mathew (J. ), monument of, 113 Matilda (Queen of Henry I.), school of,

4 ; marriage of, 7

Matthew (General), residence of, 81, 82 Matthews (J.), seat of, 160 Maud (Empress), lands at Portsmouth,

7 ; grants Earldom to Milo of

Gloucester, 178, 179 Maynard (R.), manor of, 275 Mazarini (Duchtss uf), portrait of, 318

Meautys (Sir T.), estate of, 283 Medantinus (W.), governorship of,

178

Meetkirke (A.), manor of, 113 Megla, landing of, at Portsmouth, 5 Melbourne (Viscount), seat of, 210 Merewald (King of Mercia), foundation

of, 187

Middleton (Lord), seat of, 26 Middleton (Sir H.), memorial of, 216 ; constructs New River to London, 227 •

Mildmay (Sir H. St. John), seat of, 5 Mildmay (Sir W.), monument of, 215 Milfrid (King), builds church at Here- ford, 178

Mill (Sir C.), seat of, 5 Mill (Sir J. H.), seat of, 29 Miller (Sir T.), seat of, 5 Mills (Mrs.), seat of, 210 Milo of Gloucester receives grant of

earldom, 178, 179 Mitford (Colonel), seat of, 11 Moberly (Rev. Dr.), mastership of,

142

Monk (General), portrait of, 320 Monson (John, Lord), manor of, 301 ;

preserves Waltham Cross, 301 Montacute (Marquess of), defeat and

death of, 211

Montagu (E.), created Earl of Sand- wich, 317; portrait of 318; death of, 319

Montagu (M.), portrait of, 318 Montagu (Sir S.), seat of, 317 Montagu (family of), portraits of, 319,

320

Montague (\V.), portrait of, 318 Montague (A., Duchess of), portrait of,

319

Montegle (Lord), residence of, 151 Moody (I.), burial-place of, 83 Moore (family of), mansion of, 167 Mordaunt (C., Earl of Peterboro"),

residence of, 1 1 Mordaunt (General Sir J.), residence

of, 82

Morflett (E.), monument of, 151 Morgan (Bishop), portrait of, iS8 Morley (Bishop), connection of, with

the Guik! of the Holy Ghost, 38 Morley (E.), marriage of, 251 Morley (R. Lord), marriage of, 251 ;

arms of, 251

Morrice (J.), tomb of, 230 Mortimer (E., Earl of March), im- prisonment of, 161 ; victories of, 161,

336

Index of Names.

187 ; erects church at Kingsland,

I 88, 189 Mortimer (Rev. W.), rectory of, 188,

189

Mortimer (family of), estates of, 187 Mosse (R., Dean of Ely), sermon by,

221, 222 Mountford (Rev. Dr.), rectory of, 292 ;

buildings erected by, 292 Mountford (Rev. J.), rectory of, 295

Napier (family of), mansion of, 262

Nash (J.), seat of, 5

Navarre (Joan of), castle of, 209

Neale (Sir H. ), seat of, 6

Neeclham (Rev. G., and wife), memorial

of, 33

Neeclham (M.), memorial of, 33 Nelson (Rev. K.), rectory of, 78 Nelthorpe ( — ), harboured at Moyles

Court, 73

Nequam (A.), birthplace of, 213 Nevil (R., Earl of Salisbury), manor of,

245

Neville (C.), portrait of, 177 Newcome (Rev. P.), rectory of, 215 Newland (S.), memorial of, 83 Nicholas (Sir A.), birthplace of, 306 Nichols (J. B.), residence of, 238 Nicholson (Rev. — ), rectory of, 263 Nickhol (Sir C. G.), marriage of, 37 Norbury (Eliz.), portrait of, 176 Normandy (R., Duke of), relations of,

with Henry I., 7 Norris (V.), manor of, 8l Norris (Rev. W.), rectory of, 115 Norris (family of), hatchment of, 153 Northumberland (E., Countess of), por- trait of, 319 ; marriages of, 319 Northwold (Rev. \V. ), rectory of, 294 Nott (Rev. Dr.), directs repairs of Winchester Cathedral, 125, 130

OrTa (King of Mercia) murders King Ethelbert, 160, 178, 196 ; founda- tions of, 172, 209 ; painting of, at St. Albans, 264 ; enshrines bones of, at St. Albans, 271 ; death of, 211 ; re- ported tomb of, 250 Oglander (Sir W.), seat of, 5 Ogle (Lord), defends Winchester

Castle, 1 20

Olaus (King of Norway), baptism of, 6 Opie (T. and B.), monument of, 113 Opie (Mrs.), manor of, 113 Orange (Prince of), portrait of, 254 Orleans (Duchess of), portrait of, 318

Orleton (Adam de), birthplace of, 162 ; intrigues of, 163

Ormesby (E.), monument of, 151

Osborne (Ruth), drowned for witch- craft, 215

Ottobon, the Pope's legate, signs Edward I. with sign of cross, 299

Oudeby (J.), monumental brass of, 246, 247

Overall (Dean J.), rectory of, 292

Oxford (Earl of), seat of, 160

Oxford and Mortimer (Earls of), resi- dence of, 203

Pace (Dean R.), birthplace of, 10 Packe (Alderman), manor of, 314 Paley (J.), burial-place of, 247 Palliser (Rear-Admiral), portrait of, 317 Palmer (S.), tomb of, 230 Palmer (T. R.), tomb of, 230 Palmer ( — ), lodging of, 267 Palmerston (Viscount), seat of, 5, 29 Paraden (Rev. P.), rectory of, 294 Paris (Matthew), abbacy of, 271, 272 ;

burial-place of, 209 Parker (G.), residence of, 151 Parker (Sir H.), marriage of, 251 Parker (J.), benefaction of, 21 Parker (R.), seat of, 210 Parker (Sir — ), lodging of, 267

j Parry (J.), tomb of, 201 Parry (W.),

seat of, 160 Parton (W., and wife), benefaction of,

291 ; foundation of, 291 Patishul (J.), tomb of, 231 Patrick (Bishop of Limerick), visits cell

at Markate, 259 Paul (Abbot of St. Albans), buildings

of, 271, 272 Paulet (J.), defends Basing, 9 ; marriage

of, 36 ; tomb of, 36 Paulet (Sir W.), tomb of, 36 Paulet (family of), residence of, 36 Peachy (Sir J.), estates of, 168 Pearce ( R. ), manor of, 245 ; memorial

of, 248

Pecke (Sergt. E.), manor of, 245 Pelham (Bishop of Lincoln), cenotaph

for, 316

Pelham (Hon. C. A.), seat of, 5 Pemberton (Sir F.), birthplace of, 213 Pembridge (H. de), foundation of, 180 Pembridge (Sir R.), effigy of, 166;

monument of, 181 Pembroke (Jasper, Earl of), defeat of,

161, 187 Pembruge (Alicia,), marriage of, 166

Index of Names.

337

Pennington (Rev. T.)i rectory of, 295 Penruddocke (Colonel), capture of

Nonconformist ministers by, 73 Perin (C.), memorial of, 32, 33 Perin (Eliz.), memorial of, 33 Perin (H.), foundation of, 32 j portrait

of, 32 ; memorial of, 33 Perrot (R.), birthplace of, 307 Pery(Rev. R.), rectory of, 295 Petty (Sir W.), birthplace of, lo ;

burial-place of, 12 Philip II. of Spain, marriage of, 8 Philips (J.), burial-place of, 163 ;

monument of, 181 Phillips (R.), seat of, 160 Phillips (W.), monument of, 152 Philpot (J.), burnt at Smithfiekl, 10 Pile (Sir S. ), seat of, 109, no Pink (R.), birthplace of, 10 Pits (Uean J.), birthplace of, 10 Plokenet (Sir A.), benefaction of, 169-

«7'

Plowden (H. C), seat of, 5

Plumer (W. ), seat of, 210

Plymouth (Countess of), monument of, 179

Pococke (R. , Bishop of Meath), birth- place of, 10

Pole (Sir C. M.), seat of, 210

Pollen (Sir J. W.), seat of, 5

Pontissara (j. de), foundation of, 135 ; register of, 136, 137

Pope, the poet, school of, 12

Pope (Rev. Sir B. ), vicarage of, 17, 18 ; funeral expenses of, 18

Pope (Sir T.), foundation of, 261 ; building erected by, 261, 262

Pope Blount (family of), mansion of, 262

Popham (A.), portrait of, 319

Porta, landing of, at Portsmouth, 5

Portal (J.), seat of, 5, 8 1

Porter (Sir C. ), portrait of, 176

Portland (W., Duke of), manor of, 237

Portsmouth (Earls of), seats of, 5

Potenger (J.), birthplace of, 10

Poure (Ann), burial-place of, 249

Powlet (C. ), manors of, 8 1

Powlett (Right Hon. Orde), seat of,

"3

Powlett (W. P.), seat of, 5

Pownde (A.), manor of, 76 ; memorial

of, 77

Pownde (R.), estates of, 76 Pownde (W., and wife), obtain grant of

monastery, 76 ; patronage of, 76, 78 Pratt (S. J.), birthplace of, 307

VOL. XVII.

Prescott (Sir G. B.), seat of, 232;

manor of, 237

Prescott (G.), manor of, 237, 238 Prescott (M.), tomb of, 230 Pretyman (Bishop of Lincoln), residence

°f, 3'5 Price (Colonel H.) surrenders Hereford,

161

Price (R.), seat of, 187 Price (Uvedale), seat of, 160 Price (Rev. — ), rectory of, 257 Pricey (R. ), benefaction of, 97 Primrose (Mary), tomb of, 2OI Prior (Ann), centenarian, 247 Prior ( — ), residence of, 228, 229 Prophete (J.), monument of, 98 Purkess ( — ) conveys body of William

Rufus to Winchester, 96 Purver(A.), birthplace of, 10

Quendred (Queen), treachery of, 178 Quicdm, brother of King Kinegils, converted to Christianity, 6

Rahere, foundations of, 207

Raiss ( — ), organist at Havnnt, 83

Raleigh (Sir W.), trial of, 8

Ralph (Earl) routed from Hereford,

178

Ramsey (W. de), birthplace of, 307 Kamridge (Abbot), monument of, 263 Ranelagh (R., Earl of), portrait of, 177 Ranelagh (Viscountess), portraits of,

175. '77

Raper (Martha), monument of, 296 Raper (Matthew), monument of, 296 Raper (family of), manor of, 297 Ravenscroft <.T.), widow of, monument

of, 189

Rawlinson (C.), monument of, 264 Ray (Miss), portrait of, 320 Rayner ( — ), estate of, 168 Reding (Sir S. de), execution of. 161 Redman (Bishop R.), birthplace of, 213 Reed (I.), burial-place of, 214 Reinelm (Bishop), foundation of, 179 Renaud (A.), burial-place of, 83 Reynolds (Bishop), burial-place of, 307 Reynolds (Rev. J.), rectory and

vicarages of, 295 Reynolds (R.), seat of, 306 Rich (H., Earl of Holland), imprison- ment of, 306 Rich (R., Earl of Warwick), marriage

of, 248 ; burial-place of, 248 Rich (Sir R.), chancellor to Edward VI., 10

22

338

Index of Names.

Richard I., second coronation of, 7 Richard II. puts down Wat Tyler's

rebellion, 21 1

Richards (Rev. — ), rectory of, 34 Richard, son of William I., death

of, 6

Rider (Hon. R.), seat of, 210 Ridge (Mr T.), seat of, 27 Rivers (Lord), seat of, 5 Rivers (R. de), repairs Carisbrooke

Castle, 154 Robert (Abbot of St. Albans), buildings

of, 265 Roliotham (R.), admitted to the degree

of D.D., 190, 191

Robinson (Sir W. ), portrait of, 176 Roden (Earl of), seat of, 2IO Rodney (I.), churchwarden of Old

Alresforii, 32

Rodney (J.), memorial of, 32 Rogers (H.), tomb of, 51 Konully (Sir S., and Lady), burial- place of, 191

Romilly (Lady), birthplace of, 191 Roos (E.), marriage of, 36 Rosamond (The Fair), tomb of, 101 Rose (Right lion G.), seat of, 5 Ross (J., Bishop of Exeter), birthplace

of, 162 Rotheram (T., Bishop of Lincoln),

buildings erected by, 309, 315 Rowlet (R.), manor of, 275 Rudborne (Bishop T.), birthplace of,

2'3

Ru(us(B. , Bishop of London), birth- place of, 306

Rumbold (Sir T.), seat of, 28 Runcorn (T. ), wardenship of, 135 Rupert (Prince), portrait of, 320 Rnpibus (P. de). builds church at

Portsmouth, 96 ; burial-place of, 4 Rushworth (E.), seat of, 5 Russel (F. ), birthplace Of, IO Russel (J. , Bishop of Lincoln), birth- place of, 10

Russell (Lord), execution of, 212 Ru*?ell (J., Bishop of Lincoln), build- ings erected by, 309, 310, 315 Rygg* (W-i and wife), monumental

brass of, 152

Ryves (C.), mairiage of, 152 Ryves (Sir R.), monument of, 151

Sackville (Lady M.). portrait of, 174 Sadleir (Sir R ), residence of, 215;

takes banner of King of Scots, 215 St. Alban, birthplace of, 212 ; marlyr-

dom of, 271 ; enshrinement of bones of, 271

St. Albans (J. de), birthplace of, 212

St. Alphage, relics of, 305

St. Andre ( — ), residence of, 28

St. Anthony of Vienna, mission of, 159

St. Barbe (J., and wife), monument of, 12

St. Beavois, birthplace of, 9

St. Dunstan, burial-place of, IOO

St. Egwin, relics of, 305

St. Ethelwold, remains of architecture of, 23

St. Grimbald, relics of, 4

St. Guthlac, presentation of leaden coffin to, 100

St. Ives (Roger de), birthplace of, 317

St. John (A.), marriage of, 253 ; monu- ment of, 255

St. Judocus, relics of, 4

St. Leonard of Pyona (Canons of), patronage of, 166

St. Neot, relics of, 305

St. Neots (Hugh de), birthplace of, 307

St. Oswald, bishopric of, 305

St. Swithin, birthplace of, 10 ; burial- place of, 4, 13 ; reputed tomb of, 121

St. Thomas de Cantilupe, tomb of,

159

Salisbury (Marquess of), seat of, 2IO

Salwey (family of), estates of, 203

Samwell (J., and wife), executed for witchcraft, 307

Sanderson (Bishop), residence of, 315 ; burial-place of, 307, 316

Sandcs (W., Lord), buildings of, 37 ; foundation of, 38, 40, 41 ; burial- place of, 38

Sandys (Sir W., and wife), patronage of, 17, 18

Sandwich (Earls of), seat of, 306 ; por- traits of, 318-321

Sandwich (E., Countess of), portrait of, 318

Sandwich (J., Countess of), portrait of,

3"9

Sank (G.), distress levied on, 224 Saunders (T.), monument of, 248 Saunders (family of), foundation of,

249 Savage (Rev. Dr. J.), rectory of, 244 ;

burial-place of, 244 ; epitaph on, 244 Sawtrey (H.), birthplace of, 316 Say (SirW.), buildings erected by, 226 ;

manor of, 227

Scaldeford (S. de), rectory of, 294 Scapula (O. ), victory of, 160

Index of Names.

339

Scotland (David of) entertained at

Hertford, 209 Scott (J.), residence of, 214 Scroop (Colonel), victory of, 306 Scroop of Masham (Lord), execution

of, 8 Scudamore (Lord) restores t)ore Abbey,

169 ; benelactions of, 170 ; seat of,

1 80 Scudamore (Viscount) introduces red

streak apples into England, 162 Scudamore (B. ) defends Hereford, 161 Scudamore (Sir J.) introduced into

" Faerie Queen," 162 Scudamore (R. P.), seat of, 160, 162 Scudamore ( — ), M.P. for Hereford,

seat of, 185

Sealy (S. ), memorial of, 30 Sebright (Sir E. ), tomb of, 246 Sebright (Sir J. S.), seat of, 210 Sebright (family of), patronage of, 245 ;

tombs of, 246 ; pew of, 247 Seton (Rev. W. ), rectory of, 294 Seward (M.), memorial of, 47 Seymour (Lord H.), seat of, 5 Sharpe (G. ), seat of, 306 Shawe (R.)i seat of, 210 Sherborn (R., Bishop of Chichester),

death of, 10

Sherlock (Rev. Dr. T.), rectory of, 292 Shiffner ( — ), seat of, 185 Shipley (Dr. J.), bishopric of, 12 ;

bust of, 12 Shonke(P.), attestation of, to a deed,

temp. Edward III., 225 Shrimpton (R.), mayoralty of, 270;

reminiscences of, 270, 271 Shuckborough (Sir C. ), manor of, 81 Shuckborough (Sir S. ), manor of, Si Shuldham (Rear Admiral), portrait of,

3'7

Shuldham (Eliz.), abbacy of, 293 Shuldham (Rev. Dr. E.), rectories of,

293 ; burial-place of, 293 Shute (J., Viscount Barrington), birth- place of, 213

Sidney (Anne), portrait of, 177 Simpson ( — ), seat of, 210 Skelton ( — ), property of, 98 Skinner (Miss), manor of, 113 Skippe(S-), monument of, 192 Skyllyng (M.), appointed Chief Justice

of the Court of the Pavilion, 145 Slaughter (Rev. T.). rectory of, 115 Sleford (J., Canon of Wells), tomb of,

286 Sligo (Marchioness of), seat of, 210

Sloane(H.), seat of, 5, 28 Smallpage (Rev. R. ), rectory of, 115 Smith (Anne), burial-place of, 112 Smith (Colonel), manors of, 76, 77 Smith (Sir D.), seat of, 210 Smith (M., Bishop of Gloucester), birth- place of, 162

Smith (Peter), memorial of, 189 Smith (S.), seat of, 210 Smith (T. ), patronage of, 78 Smith (Bishop of Lincoln), buildings

erected by, 310

Smythe (A.), monument of, 151 Smyther (R. ), memorial of, 65 Somer (H., and wife), hostelry of, 143 Somers (Lord), seat of, 160; monu- ment of, 214

Sone (T., and wife), burial-place of, 115 South (E.), tomb of, 229 Southampton (Earl of) obtains grant of St. Elizabeth's College at Win- chester, 135 Southwell (Sir T., and Lady), portraits

of, 175

Sowerby (J.), seat of, 210 Spencer (Earl), seat of, 210 Spencer (Hon. C.), seat of, 210 Spencer (H. de), execution of, 161 Squire (T.), tomb of, 321, 322 Stafford (E., Duke of Buckingham),

pedigree of, 179

Standish (Rev. Dr.), rectories of, 292 Stanley (Eliz.), memorial of, 12 Stanley (P.), seat of, 306 Stanley (T.), birthplace of, 213 Stawel (Lord), seat of, 27 Steele (A.), birthplace of, 10 Stephen (King) seizes Hereford, 160,

161

Stow (M.), tomb of, 230 Strade (\V., and wife), monumental

brass of, 264

Strafford (Lord), portrait of, 2J& Strode (Geo. ), monument of, 255 Strode (J., Lady), monument of, 256 Suffolk (Marquess of), lands at Ports- mouth, 8

Sydney (Algernon), execution of, 212 Symmons (J.), seat of, 180 Symonds (E.), birthplace of, 213

Talbot (J., Earl of Shrewsbury), memo- rial of, 264

Talbot (R., Lord Tyrconnel), portrait of, 177

Talbot (family of), estates of, 172

Talk (— ), property of, 113

22 — 2

340

Index of Names.

Tankerfield (G.), martyrdom of, 274

Tapps (Sir G. T.)i seat of, 5

Taten (Rev. C.), rectory ol, 295

Tatnall (W., and wife), tomb of, 231

Taylor (C. W.), patronage of, 78

Taylor (J.), memorial of, 77

Taylor (P.), mansion of, 76 ; patronage

of, 78

Tempest (Sir H.), seat of, 160 Terry ( — ), residence of, 151 Thomas (Rev. H.). rectory of, 294 Thorpe (Rev. T. ), rectory of, 294 Throckmorton ( — ) defeats adherents

of Lady Jane Grey, 161 Thurstan (Archbishop of York) visits

Red bourn, 258

Tichborne (A.), memorial of, in Tichborne (Sir 15.), monument of, no,

III

Tichborne (Sir H.), seat of, 5 Tichborne (R.), burial-place of, in Tillotson (Dr.) erects bell at Therfield,

291

Timms (J. F.), seat of, 210 Titus (S.)i birthplace of, 213 Toclyve (R.), foundation of, 136;

augments St. Cross Hospital, 136 Tomsom |R.), birthplace of, 10 Tonson (Jacob), epitaph on, 103 Toni (R. de), manor of, 246 Tooke (G.), birthplace of, 213 Tooke (Dr. T.) mastership of, 221 ;

patronage of, 222 ; portrait of, 222 ;

death of, 222

Townshend (Lord J.), seat of, 210 Trener (Sir S.), benefaction of, 96 Tresilian (C. J.), assists in putting down

Wat Tyler's rebellion, 211 Trigger (J.), benefaction of, 97 Trimnel (C., Bishop of Winchester),

birthplace of, 307 Trollope (Captain), victory of, 307 Trot (Sir J.), manor of, 81 ; residence

of, 81 ; burial-place of, 81 Trumpington (Abbot of St. Alban's),

buildings erected by, 264, 265 Tuberville (— ), seat of, 160 Tuchet (VV. B.), manor of, 166 Tucker ( — ), residence of, 28 Tudor (O.), imprisonment and execu- tion of, 161, 187 Tudor (family of), badge of, 25 Turman ( — ), manor of, 244 Turner (Sir B. ), birthplace of, 291 ;

residence of, 290 ; portrait of, 292 ;

tomb of, 287 Turner (Barnard), tomb of, 288

Turner (E. A. and W.), tomb of, 288 Turner (F., Bishop of Rochester), monument erected by, 289 ; com- mitted to Tower, 289 ; sermons by, 290 ; rectory of, 292 j benefaction of, 293

Turner (Sackville), memorial of, 289 Turner (Sarah P.), tomb of, 287 Turner (Rev. T.), rectory of, 295 Turner (family of), manor of, 290 ; resi- dence of, 290

Turnoth ( — ), manor of, 244 Twychet ( — ), marriage of, 286 Tyler (Bishop of Llanda/T), monument

of, 179

Tyrrel (Sir W.), defeats the French, 8 ; shoots William Rufus, 6, 93, 94 ; burial-place of, 102

Udal (N.), birthplace of, 10 Urry (J.), birthplace of, 10

Vaughan (Roach), memorial of, 191 Vaughan (Sir T. , and wife), memorial

of, 191

Vaughan of Ilinton (family of), memo- rials of, 198

Venables (J.), family of, memorial of, 47 Ventham (J.), burial-place of, 83 Vere (Frances), burial-place of, 242 VernonfJ. de), manor of, 165 Vernon ( — ), monument of, 165 Verulam (Earl of), seat of, 210 Vespasian, conquers the Isle of Wight,

S Vigerons (Rev. W.), rectory of, 294

Waight (J., and wife), monument of, 47,

48

Waight (R.), monument of, 47 Wakefield (Rev. R.), rectory of, 294 Waldof (— ), manor of, 244 Walkelin (Bishop), architecture of, 16,

17, 63. 13°

Walker (I.), birthplace of, 213 Waller (E.), birthplace of, 213 Waller (Sir W.), victory of, 9 ; sacri- lege of, 126, 127 ; captures Here- ford, 161

Wallingford (Abbot), cloister of, 267 Wallis (P.), tomb of, 230 Wallop (Sir J.), birthplace of, 10 Walsham (family of), seat of, 191 Waltheof (Earl), execution of, 6 Walton (I.), reminiscences of, 228 Walwin (R.), marriage of, 82 Walwynn (— ), seat of, 195

Index of Names.

Warbeck (Perkin), takes sanctuary at Beaulieu, 8 ; surrenders to Henry VII., 8

Ward (Bishop S. ), birthplace of 214 Ware (R. de), birthplace of, 214 Ware (W. de), birthplace of, 214 Warham (W. , Archbishop of Canter- bury), birthplace of, 10 Warner (W.), burial-place of, 214 Warre (J. de), benefaction of, 169, 171 Warren ( — ), burial-place of, 250 Warton (Dr.), retreat of, 12 Warton (Rev. J.), rectory of, 295 Warton (J.), birthplace of, 10 Warton (T.), Poet Laureate, birthplace

of, 10 Warwick (H., Earl of), crowned King

of the Isle of Wight, 8 Warwick (the great Earl of), defeat and

death of, 211

Warwick (Guy, Earl of), defeats Col- brand, 6 Waterhouse (Sir E.), birthplace of,

214

Watson (Rev. Dr.), victory of, 308 Watts (Isaac), birthplace of, II Waynflete (Bishop), arms of, 39 ; seal of, 146 ; chantry of, 125, 131 ; tomb of, 126, 127, 142

Webb (Rev. R. ), memorial of, 30 Wellington (Duke of), visits Ports- mouth, 9 ; gifts of, to Kingsclere Church, 84

Wells ( — ), property of, 307 Welwayn (Hobby), defeats adherents of

Lady Jane Grey, 161 Wenham (J.), tried for witchcraft, 215 West (T. and A. de), tomb of, 55 Weston (Rev. C. ), rectory of, 292 Weston (Sir R. ), residence of, 300 Westphaling (Bishop), monument of,

181

Whamsell (Sir R.), benefaction of, 96 Wheathamstead (Abbot John of), chantry of, 263 ; painted ceiling erected by, 272

Wheatley (Rev. C.), vicarage of, 214 Wheler (Rev. Sir G.), vicarage of, II Whitagar, a follower of Cerdic, re- builds Carisbrooke Castle, 154 White (F., Bishop of Ely), birthplace of,

3°7 White (J., Bishop of Winchester), death

of, II

White (Rev. G.), vicarage of, 12 White (G.), school of, 42 White (Rev. J.), birthplace of, 112

White (J.), birthplace of, 307

White (J., and wife), memorial of, 47

White (R.), birthplace of, II

White (Sir T.), birthplace of, 214

White ( Rev. — ), purchases site of St. Elizabeth's College, Winchester, 135

Whitehead (J.), burial-place of, 50

Whitfield (F.), seat of, 210

Whittlesea (W. de), birthplace of, 307

Wild (R.), birthplace of, 307

Wigley (R.), centenarian, 163

Wilkes (J[.), retreat of, 12

Willes (Sir F.), seat of, 210

William I., disasters to family of, 95 ; swears to keep laws of Edward the Confessor, 2\i ; foundation of, 316

William II., alleged destruction of churches by, 70 ; death of, 6, 95 ; burial-place of, 4 ; momument erected in memory of, 93, 94 ; tomb of, 125 ; body of, conveyed to Winchester, 96

William III., portrait of, 177

William (King of the Scots), carries sword of state at Richard I. 's corona- tion, 7

Williams (Archbishop), seat of, 312 ; buildings erected by, 312

Williams, alias Cromwell (family of), arms of, 321

Williams (K.), seat of, 210

Williams (T.), portrait of, 176

Wilmot (C. ), portrait of, 321

Wilton (Lord Grey de), trial of, 8

Winchcombe (Abbot of), property ot, 172

Winchelsea (A., Countess of), birth- place of, 1 1

Winchester (L. of), birthplace of, II

Winchester (Wolstan of), birthplace of, II

Winniffe (Bishop of Lincoln), seat of,

3H

Winter ( — ), benefaction of, 78 Withers (G.), birthplace of, II Wolsey (Cardinal), residence of, 214 Woodstock (E. of), execution of, 7 Wortley (S.), portrait of, 319 Wright (J. and M. E. ), monument of,

4.7

Wriothesley (Lord Chancellor), monu- ment of, 12

Wriothesley (Sir T. ), obtains grant of St. Elizabeth's College at Winches- ter, 135

Wykeham (W. of), birthplace of, II ; benefactions of, 83 ; death of, 1 1 ; burial-place of, 4 ; tomb of, 142

34*

Index of Names.

Wykes (Sir T.), letter of, to Sir R.

Sydney, 242

Wylly (Rev. R.), rectory of, 294 Wyndham (H. W.), manor of, 150;

dial and clock made by, 150; tomb

of, 152 Wyndham (T.), monument of, 152;

arms of, 1 52 Wynne (Sir'Watkin W.), portrait of,

253. 254

Yalden (J.), monument of, 34 Yalden (W.), monument of, 34 Yonge (Rev. Dr. P.), rectory of, 292 York (C., Duchess of, death of, 21 1 Young (A.), tomb of, 232 Young (Rev. Dr. E.), rectory of, 215 Young (E.), birthplace of, 112 Young (K.), tomb of, 232

Zenzan (A.), lodging of, 267

INDEX OF SUBJECTS.

ACONBURY, 163, 164

Agnus Dei, sign of the, at Buckden,

VS. 3'6

Albury House, 235 Aldershot, 29, 30 ; discussion as to

orthography of, 29, 30 Alexander (\V.), sketch by, 301 Allen (I,.) on Portsmouth, 97 Almshousts, at Basingstoke, 39 ; at

Flamstead, 249 Alresford, 5, 30-34, 143, 144 Altar screens, 21, 55, 56, 129, 247, 263 Alton, 7, 9 Alverstoke, II Alwalton, 308, 309 Amwell, 214-216 Ancient tenure, example of, 173 Andover, 34, 35 ; opening of railway

at, 109 Andrews (J. P.) on the New Forest,

93. 94

Anne (Queen), statue of, 21

Aquatile Hole, a spring at Hertingford- bury, 250

Ariconium, site of, 178, 195

Arms, family, 25, 31-33, 35, 46, 48, So, 82, no, in, 113, 114, 151, 152, 164- 167, 174, 176, 180, 192, 217, 223, 231, 250-254, 256, 260, 261, 285- 289, 292, 297, 300, 316. 321, 322

Arreton Down, 154

Ashmole on St. Albans, 270, 271

Assassins, origin of term as applied to murderers, 299

Aston (Herefordshire), 203

Baginton, 167

Bagster (S.) on Hoddesdon, 228, 229 Baigent (F. J.) on Hants clergy in the sixteenth century, 17-20; on Alder-

shot, 29, 30; on Winchester, 117-

119, 142-146

Balsham, brasses in church at, 286 Bank-notes manufnctciry fur, n, 82 Barnet, 2IO. 211, 217, 218 Base, minor i»f, 227 Basing, 6, 9, 35, 37 Basingstoke, 4, II, 37 42 Balh Abbey, tower of, 194 Bear Forest, 28 Beaulieu Abbey, 4, 8, 42-46 Bedhampton, 75, 76 Bells, church, 30, 34, 46, 47, 84, 97,

no, 114, 153, 198, 226, 249, 291 Belvoir, 28

Benh.im ( — ), architecture of, 21 Berkhampstead, 211, 218-220 Bevis Mount, II, 82 Biggleswade, connection of, with see of

Kly, 309 Bighton, 46

Billeting, towns exempted from, 12 Bingley (VV.) on I hristchurch, 52-56 Bishop's bailiff, jurisdiction of, at Here- ford Fair, 173 B;shop's Stortford, 220-223 Bishop's Sutton, 47, 48 Bishop's Waltliam, 5, II, 48, 112 Bittern, 3

Blackborough, 41, 42 Blestium of Antoninus, identified with

Longiown, 195 Blore (E. ), drawing by, 301 Bloxam ( — ) on stone coffins, ICO Bluntisham, 307 Bodenham, 196 Boldre, It Booker (L.) on Tedstone Delamere,

20 1, 202 Brading, 21

344

Index of Subjects.

Brampton Brian, 162, 203

Bramshot, 48-51

Brantfield, 214

Brasses (monumental), in situ, 49, 88,

137, 152, 246, 247, 257. 263, 264, 284, 286 ; lost, 48, 263, 291

98, 264 ; mutilated,

Brayley (historian of Herts) on monu- ment at Brent Pelham, 225, 226

Bredwardine, 185, 186

Brent Pelham, 223-226

Bridge Sellers, 166

Bringwood Chase, 204

British remains, discovery of, 153

Britton ( — ) on Christchurch, Oxford, 14 ; on Romsey, too, 104 ; on Win- chester Cathedral lantern, 15

Brixton (Isle of Wight), 153, 154

Broadhalfpenny, crirket ground at, 27

Brockhampton, 83

Broughton, 3

Broxbourne, 226-229

Buck ( — ), drawings by, 316

Buckden, 307-316

Buckler (E.), architecture of, 127

Burford, 164

Burghope, 167, 168

Bunington, 203

Butterfield (J.), architecture of, 133, 134

Caddington, 257

Cadenham, oak-tree at, 4, 96

Caen, Norman architecture at, 13

Caley (J.), collection of seals by, 171

Canham, II

Cannon's Lodge, 1 1

Canterton, 94

Carisbrooke, 3, 4, 8, 154

Carter (J.), drawings by, 104, 105,269, 270

Castle Malwood, 94

Catterington, 27

Ceiling, painted, at St. Alban's Abbey, 272

Chancel screens, 47, 54, 56, 57, 61, 129

Chantries at Christchurch, 54

Chapman (R.), architecture of, 274

Che^hunt, 214, 229-244

Cheverells Green, 247, 248

Chimney-piece, carved, from Theo- bald's, 238

Choir screen at Winchester Cathedral, 129

Choringham, 94

Christchurch, 51-62

Christian Club, the, at Shoreham, 29

Church stone, at Blackborough, 41,42;

at Tubney, 41

Churchyard gate at Yateley, 151 Cistercians, foundation of, at Netley, 91 Civil War events, 9, 37, 126, 127, 137,

139, 154, 178, 212, 306 Clothall, 244 Coffins, discovery of, at Aconbury, 163 ;

at Romsey, loo, 102 ; at Wherwel),

116; at Winchester, 132; at Wol-

vesey Castle, 149 Combly (Isle of Wight), 154 Compton (Surrey), 88, 89 Connington, 307 Corporation pew at Romsey, 107 Cove, tithing of, 150 Cowel (Dr.) on "Justices of the

Pavilion," 144, 145 Cowes (Isle of Wight), 5 Crasswell, 195 Crooksbury Hill, 26 Crosses, churchyard, 200 ; erected in

memory of Queen Eleanor, 300 ;

market, 140-143, 195 Crux Easton, II Curnah Hill, 161

Danebury Hill, 4, 34

Davies (Sir J.) on the accomplishments

of Queen Elizabeth, 243, 244 Deerhurst Church, brasses in, 286 Dewsall, 164 Dewsbury (Yorkshire), copy of Saxon

wheelcross at, 200 Dibdin, 4 Dilwyn, 164 Domesday Book, extracts from, 80, 85,

227, 244 Dore (Herefordshire), 162, 163, 168-

171

Douglas (Rev. J.), discoveries of, 102 Downton (Herefordshire), 162, 203,

204

Drayton, 76

Duncombe (Mrs.), poem by, 4 Dunstable, Queen Eleanor cross at, 300

Eaglehurst Cliff, 4

Eardisland, 187

Easthorpe, chapelry of, 41

East India College at Hertford, 210

East Meon, 27, 63-67

Easton, 62, 63

Eccleswall Castle, 172

Elden, 42

Elkstone, trefoil arch at, 89

Eling, 67-73

Index of Siibjects.

345

Ellingham, II, 73-75

Elm-tree at Basingstoke, 39

Elton (Herefordshire), 203

Emsworth, 75

Englefield (Sir II. C.) on Romsey Abbey, 103, 105 ; on St. Michael's, Southampton, 64

Epitaphs, 30-34, 46-48, 51, 62, 63, 77, 83, 84, 98, 110-116, 131, 151, 152, 164, 180, 182, 190, 192, 201, 217, 223, 229-232, 244, 246-249, 252, 256, 260, 261, 287-289

Ewias Harold, 169

Exbury House, II

Eywoocl, 203

Faccombe, 17

Fairs, 4, 76, 96, 144-146, 173, 180, 187,

245

Fareham, 5

Faringdon (Hants), 78-80 Farlington, 75 78 Farnham, 26, 89 Ferrey (B.) on Christchurch, 57-61 ;

on Eling, 69, 70, 72 Fires, outbreak of, at Alresford, 31, 32 Fish, sculpture of a, at Peterchurcb,

198-200 Fish Virgin, the, a term applied to the

Virgin Mary, 199

Fisher (T.), drawings by, 226, 259, 260 Flambard, architecture of, 58, 61 Flamstead, 244-249 Flaxman, monuments by, 57, 245 Fonts, church, 45, 46, 48, 68, 72, 88,

no, 132, 159, 185, 186, 198, 203,

248, 291, 297 Fordingbridge, 5

Fosbroke (T. D.) on Goodrich, 172, 175 Freefolk, II

Freeman (A.) on priory church at Leo- minster, 192, 193 Free school at Ringvvood, 98 Freshwater (Isle of Wight), 154, 155

Garbett (\V.), architecture of, 56, 58, 125, 128, 129; on Christchurch, 59, 60

Garrick, epigram by, 215

Geddington, Queen Eleanor cress at, 300

George III., statue of, 21

Gibbons (Grinling), sculpture of, 129

Gibson (Rev. — ) on Dore Rectory, 170

Gidding (Little), 308

Glatton, 307

God^tow, 101

Goodrich, 172, 173

Goodwin ( — ), architecture of, 20, 22

Gorhnmbury, 214, 275-284

Gough ( — ) on leaden coffins, loo, 101

Grammar schools, at Bishop Stortford,

222, 223 ; at Hoddesdon, 227 Grantham, Queen Eleanor Cross at,

300

Gravertones, burial of, at Eling, 68, 72 Grey (W.), on Basingstoke, 41, 42; on

Stockbridge, 108, 109 Grimston (Hon. C.) on Gorhambury,

275-277, 280, 281 Grismond, 185

Hacket (Dr.) on Buckden, 312-314

Hackwood Park, 37

Hadham Parva, 214

llailweston, medicinal spring at, 306

Hales (Dr. S.) on Faringdon, 78-80

Hall Place, manor of, 150

Ilambledon, 27, 28

Hamels, 287

Hames Gate, 265, 267

Hamper (\V. ), on Bighton, 46, 47 ; on Bishop's Sutton, 47, 48 ; on More- stead, 85 ; on Ringwood, 98 ; on Tichborne, no, in

Hampshire, 3-156

Hampton Bishop, 173-177, 196

Hampton Court (Herefordshire), paint- ings at, 173-177; curiosities ex- hibited at, 176

Harris ( — ) copy of portrait of Henry IV. by, 174

Haslar Hospital, 97

Haslerr.ere, 26, 27

Hatfield, 249

Havant, 5, 83, 84

Hayling, 83

Helvoet*luys, defeat of French off, 307

Hemel Hempstead, 249, 250

Hereford, 159-161, 173, 178-183

Hereford, earldom of, descent of, 178, 179

Herefordshire, 159-205

Herriard, 36, 37

Hertford, 209-211

Hertfordshire, 209-302

Hertingfordbury, 250

Hinchinbroke, 316-321

Hindhead, 26, 27

Hinton Court, 198

Hinxworth, 250-252

Hoddesdon, 227-229

Hoddington, 113

Holbein (Hansl, portraits by, 217

346

Index of Subjects,

Holt Forest, 26

Holy Ghost Chapel at Basingstoke, 37,

38, 40-42 Home Lacy, 162 Hope (Herefordshire), 162, 163 Hospitals, St. John's, Winchester, 146,

147 ; St. John and St. James, Roy-

ston, 293 ; St. Mary Magdalene,

Winchester, 136-138 Hull ( — ), painting by, 248 Human hair, discovery of, in barrows,

102 Humbert (Rev. L. M.) on St. Cross,

>33, 134

Hunsdon, 21 1, 214, 252 Huntingdon! 306, 307 Huntingdonshire, 305-322 Hursley, II, 84 Hyde Abbey, 3, 4, 132, 133

Image of St. Alban, carried in pro- cession, 271

Ingeston, 163

Inscriptions, monumental. Sec " Epi- taphs"

Inventories of the sixteenth century, 18-20

Isle of Wight, 3, 5-8, 21, 153-156

Janssen (Cornelius), paintings by, 216 Jones (Inigo), architecture of, 129, 130 Jubilee galleries at Winchester cathe- dral, 123

Kenchester, 187

Kenderchurch, 185

Kentchurch, 185

Keys of curious shape, discovery of,

97, 98, 116 Kilpeck, 184-186 Kimbolton, 305, 307 King (W. Warwick) on Eling, 67, 68,

71-73

Kingsclere, 84 Kingsland, 186-191 King's Lingley, 209 Kings Somborne, 29 Kington, 191

Knapp (M.) on Ledbury, 192 Knebworth, 252-257 Kneller (Sir G.), portraits by, 174-177 Knight Templar, gravestone of, 77 Knill, 191, 192 Kynaston Chapel, destruction of, 163

Langley Wood, 12 Langston Harbour, 83

Lanterns, at Christchurch, 15, 16 ; at

Norwich, 16 ; at Old Shoreham, 16;

at Romsey, 15 ; at Winchester, 15 Latham (J .), on Andover, 34 ; on

Romsey Abbey, 24 Laverstoke, 80-82 Lawrence ( — ), portraits by, 176 Ledbury, 163, 192

Leicester, Queen Eleanor cross at, 300 Leigh, 83

Le Keux (H.), engraving by, 301 Lely (Sir P.), portraits by, 175, 254 Lenthall Sparks, 203 Lentwardine, 187, 203 Leominster, 161, 192-195 Leonard Stanley (Gloucestershire),

Tower at, 194 Letchworth, 257 Lewis (J.), on St. Peter's Church at St.

Alban's, 274

Lincoln, Queen Eleanor cross at, 300 Liphook, 27, 50 Liten, name applied to churchyard at

East Meon, 67 Little Gidding, 308 Longtown, 195 Longworth, 195, 196 Lydekker (G. W.), on St. Albans, 274 Lymington, 5

Madeley Church, font at, 85

Mapledurham, 12, 27

Marcle, 163

Marden (Herefordshire), 196

Marinold, 204, 205

Markate, cell of, foundation of, 258, 259

Market charters, grants of, to Flam- stead, 245 ; to Kingsland, 187 ; to Sawbridgeworth, 286

Market Street, 245, 257-260

Mediaeval key, discovery of, 97, 98

Medicinal springs, 5, 210, 306

Medstead, 34

Merdley, manor of, 290

Mermaid, carving of, at Natley Scures,

87

Meyrick (S. R. ), on Burford, Dilwyn, Weobly, and Stretford, 164-167 ; on Kingsland, 186-191

Mile End, 21

Milland, 27

Milner (J.), on Beaulieu, 43 ; on the New Forest, 94-96 ; on Winchester Cathedral, 119-121; on Wolvesey Casile, 148

Minley Warren, 151

Index of Subjects,

347

Minsted, 94, 95

Mi ink land, 187

Monnington, 159

Moody (H.), on Winchester City cross, 141, 142

Moor Park, 214

Morehampton, 170, 171

Morestead,85

Mortimer's cross, 161 ; memorial of battlefield of, 186, 187

Mural paintings, at Thundridge, 297, 298 ; at St. John's Church, Winches- ter, 135

Musselburgh, battle of, 215

Mylne (R.), architecture of, 216

Nash ( — ), design by, 129

Nately Scures, 85-89

Nether Wallop, 109

Netley Abbey, 3, 12, 89-93

Neville's Cross, battle of, 8

Newark, Queen Eleanor cross at, 300

New Forest, 6, 93-96

Newport (Isle of Wight), 12

New River, construction of the, 227

Newtown, 8

Nollekens, bust by, 12

Nonupton, 197

Norman architecture in Hants, 13-17

Norris(Rev. W.), on Warblington, 114-

116 Northampton, Queen Eleanor cross at,

300

North Mims, 214 North Stoncham, 12

Oak-trees, at Cadenham, 4; at Langley

Wood, 12 ; at Nonupton, 197 Obelisk, commemorating the battle of

Barnet, 218 Odiham Castle, 3, 7, 8 Offley (Herts), 211 Oldcastle, 195 Old Shoreham, 16 Oliver Cromwell's saddle-room at

Christchurch, 62 Oratories at Christchurch, 53 Ordeal, trial by, 6, 215 Organs, church, 48, 96 Orleton, 163 Ovington, 34 Oxenborne, chapel of St. Nicholas at,

66 Oxford, Norman architecture at, 14

Paris (Matthew), on cell of Markate, 257, 258

Paul (Father), on Bramshot, 49 ; on

Farlington, 75-78 Paul's Walden, 260, 261 Pelham Furneaux, 214 Peterchurch, 197-200 Petersfield, 27 Petit (:— ), on lantern at Romsey Abbey,

IS

Pew, attached to manor, 290 Piscina-1, examples of, 46, 48, 5°> 5S»

lit, 189, 197, 245, 246 Porchester Gristle 3 Portsduwn Hill, 4 Portsea, 22

Portsmouth, 8, 9, 12, 21, 22, 96, 97 Portswood, 97, 98 Privy tithes, at Eling, 67 Pulpits, at Beaulieu, 44, 45 ; at East

Meon, 64 ; at Shrewsbury, 45 Pulley, 200 Pymmes, reputed residence of the Cecil

family, 241, 242

Quarre Abbey, 3

Quin, the epicure, epigrams written as soliloquy uf, 215

Ramsey (Hunts), 305, 308 Redbourn, 258

Kcclbridgc, opening of railway to, 109 Refectory, at Beaulicu Abbey, 43, 45 ;

at Netley Abbey, 91 Religious Houses at Hereford, 180 Rickmansworth, 214 Ridge, 261, 262 Rings, discovery of, at Andover, 34 ;

at Winchester, 132 Ringwood, 98 Riplington, 64 Roman, provinces, 3, 159, 209, 305

remains, 75, 76, 154, 271, 272;

stations, 3, 159, 209, 305 Romeland, 274

Romsey, 4, 12-15, '7. 22-25, 99- '°7 Rood-screens and lofts, at Christchurch,

61 ; at Nether Wallop, 109 ; at

Tichborne, no; at Therrield, 291 Ross, 163 " Round Table," the, of King Arthur,

4, 138-140 Royston, 215, 293 Rudge (E.), on Beaulieu, 42, 43 "Rufus's Knights," name given to

Foresters' club, 94 Rufus's stone, 93, 94 Ryde (Isle of Wight), 8 Rysbrach, monument by, 12

348

Index of Subjects,

St. Albans, abbey of, 209, 211, 215, 262-284 ; St. Peter's Church at, 272- 274 ; Queen Eleanor cross at, 300

St. Anthony's fire, cure of, 159

St. Catharine's Hill, 4

St. Catharine's Tower (Isle of Wight),

155, '5<i

St. Cross, 25, 26, 133, 134 St. Elizabeth's College at Winchester,

remains of, 135 St. George de Rockerville (Abbey of),

Jubilee galleries at, 123, 124 St. Giles's Fair at Winchester, 144 146 St. Giles de Bosco, nunnery of, attacked

by robbers, 259 St. Ives (Hunts), 305, 308 St. John Baptist, figure of head of,

147

St. Neots (Hunts), 305, 306

St. Swithin's day, superstition connected

with, 13 Salmon (N.), on monument at Brent

I'elham, 224, 225 Sandown (Isle of Wight), 12 Saxon work, traces of, at Kilpeck, 186 ;

in St. Alban's Abbey, 269, 270 Sawbridgeworth, 215, 284-287 Sawyer (\V.), on Kilpeck, 185, 186 ;

on Peterchurch, 197-199 Scott (Sir J. G.), architecture of, 142 Seals, corporation, 99 ; episcopal, 146 ;

monastic, 15, 171 Sedilia at Flamstead, 246 Selborne, 12 Sepulchre chambers, examples of, in

the Netherlands, 189 Shanklin (Isle of Wight), 4 Sheetbridge, 27 Shenley (Herts), 215 Shingley Hall, 287 Sholdon Court, 188 Siculus (Diodorus), on the tin found in

Britain, 153

Side altar, traces of, at East Meon, 65 Sidon Hill, 4 Silchester, 3, 138 Skeletons, discovery of, at Hereford,

182, 183 ; at Wheathamstead, 301 Smirke, architecture of, 182 Smith (Bernard), organs by, 48, 112 Smith (C. Roach), on Combly, 154 Sobieski, statue of, transformed, 21 Somerley, 1 10 Somersham, medicinal spring at, 306,

308

Southampton, 3, 6-9, 12, 20, 21, 28, 108 Sonthwick (Hants), 8, 12, 76, 108

Spaldwick, connection of, with see of Ely, 309

Spence ( — ), on Romsey Abbey, 106, 107

Spires, substitution of, for towers, 202

Stained glass in church windows, 50 III, 261, 262

Stamford, Queen Eleanor cross at, 300

Standon (Herts), 215

Stanton (E.), monuments by, 255, 256

Statutes of Winchester, enactment of, 7

Stobbes ( — ), executes repairs at Win- chester Cathedral, 107

Stockbridge, 7, 103, 108, 109

Stockdale (F. W. L.), drawing by, 225

Stony Cross, 94

Stony Stratford, Queen Eleanor cross at, 300

Street Court, 187

Street names at Hereford, 180

Studham, 257

Suiton Walls, 160, 178, 196

Swift, on C. Mordaunt, Earl of Peter- borough, II

Taylor (Sir R.), architecture of, 284 Tedstone Delamere, 201, 202 Telegraph, at Farlington Hill, 76 Tessellated pavement, remains of, 115 Than (Normandy), stone roof in church

at, 59 " Thatched House," the, at Hoddesdon,

288, 289

Theobalds, 211, 212, 215, 232-244 Therfield, 287-293 Thompson (E. ), on Beaulieu, 45, 46 Thomson, the poet, inscription by, 12 Thorley, 293-297 Thundridge, 297, 298 Tichborne, no, III Tiltey, 162 Titchfield, 9

Tithes, Privy, at Eling (Hants), 67 Tring, 215 Trout, sculpture of a, at Peterchurch,

198, 199 Tubney, 41 Tuthill, manor of, 290 Twyford (Hants), 12; (Herts), 293 Tytherley, III Tyttenhanger, 261, 262

Upharn, in, 1 12 Upper Nateley, 85 Upton Grey, 112-114 Uriconium, 187 Urish Hay, 198

Indtx of Subjects.

349

Van Celder (P. M.), monument by, 83 Vandyck, portraits by, 162, 176 Vertue, prints by, 216 Verulam, 211, 271, 272, 282-284 " Volkre's chambers," at Kingsland Church, 188, 189

Walcott (Mackenzie E. C.), on Basing- stoke, 40, 41 ; on Christchurch, 62 ; on St. Albans, 262-268

Wai ford, 202, 203

Walkerne, 215

Waller (L. A. B.), drawings by, 287

Wallington, treaty of, 7

Walnut-tree at Berkhampstead, 220

Waltham "Blacks," a gang of depre- dators, II

Waltham Cross, 298-301

Walton (I.), on Bishop Sanderson, 315

Wansford Bridge, 308

Warblington, 3, 114-116

Ware, 211, 215

Wars of the Roses, events in, 211

Warton (T.), on Tyttenhanger, 261, 262

Watcombe, 12

Wathen (J.), on Aconbury, 163, 164; on Burghope, 167, 168 ; on Dore, 168-171 ; on Kilpeck, 184, 185 ; on Longtown, 195 ; on Longworth, 195, 196 ; on Marden, 196

Waverley Abbey, 26

Weever ( — ), on altar-tomb at Flam- stead, 248

Wells, holy, in Herefordshire, 160, 165

Welwyn, 215

Weobly, 165

West, painting by, in Winchester Cathedral, 121, 122, 125

Westmill, 301

Weyhill, 4

Wheat, cheapness of, in time of Henry VI-, 215

Wheathampstead, 211, 301

Wheel Cross, copy of a, at Dewsbury (Yorks), 200

Wherwell, 4, 116, 117

Whitborne, 163

White Cross, near Hereford, memorial

of market held at the time of the

Plague, 195 Wickham, 12, 28 Widemarsh, 161 Widley, 75

Wiffen (J. H.) on Broxbourne, 226, 228 Wigmore, 161, 203-205 { Willingham House, seat of Bishops of

Lincoln, 316 Willis (Professor) on the architecture

of Winchester Cathedral, 16, 17 Wimmering, 75 i Winchester, 3, 6-9, 13, 15, 16, 25, 26,

117-150 Winchester Measure, origin of the, 12,

'3

Winnal, 19

Wolmer, manor of, 50

Wolvesey Castle, 25, 148-150

Wolves' heads, tribute of, imposed on

Welsh, 6

Wooden porch at Kilpeck, 186 Woodward (B. B.) on St. Bartholomew,

Hyde, Winchester, 132, 133 Woolmer Forest, 49 Wormbridge, 185 Wormley, 215 Wotton (Sir H.), friend of Sir I.

Walton, epitaph by, 228 Wren (Sir C.), architecture of, 120,

129 Wright (Paul) on Hinxworth, 250, 252 ;

on Westmill, 301 Wright (T.) on Therfield, 291 Wyatt (— ), architecture of, 128, 263;

reports on condition of St. Alban's

Abbey, 270 Wyton, 308

Yardleybury, 215 Yarmouth (Isle of Wight), 8 Yately, i5°-'53' Yaxley, 321, 322

Yew-trees, at Dibdin, 4 ; at Ringwood, 98

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