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B 437135
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THE
of
ENGLAND AND WALES ;
OR
BELJNEA TIONS
TOPOGRAPHICAL. HISTORICAL
DESCRIPTIVE.
Vol.XIV.
. at Brighton.
Um*n AtktiM <f .b*iar>w .fj^ii .»>/<4 rv/ .%» ,
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THE
BEAUTIES
OF
England and Wales:
OR,
ORIGIJVllL DEJLIJVE^TIOJVS,
TOFOOBAPHICAlo HI8IOEICAL, AKP PBSCRIFnYS,
or . ;
EACH COUNTY.'..-
EMBfiLLISMKO WITH ENGRAVINGS.
VOL. XIV.
BY
FREDERIC SHOBERL.
BriUla high favour*!! of indulfent hesrent
Nfttore^s anointed empress of the deep i
The tiur^e of merchants who can purefaase crowns*
Of 6aUi9 lilies this eternal blast
This terror of Armadas I
This small isle wide realm'd monarchs eye with awe.
1¥hich says to their ambition's foaming waves,
*• Thns far nor farther I"
Thb sacred isle.
Cat from the continent, that world of slaves;
This temple boilt by heaven's peculiar oar*
In a reee^ from the contagions world.
With ocean ponr'd aroand it for its gnard*
And dedicated long to liberty.
That health, that strength, that bloom of oivil life I
YOUKO.
LONDON:
PRrifTto roit>. HARRIS ; lowomaiv ams co.; j. walkbr ; R. baldwiV';
iBBEwooD Amn CO.; j. and j. citnosi; b. 'AMD r. orosby axd co. ;
J. CVTHBLL; j. AMD !• RICHARDSON; CA9BLL AND DAVIBSJ C* AMD
J, RIVINOTOlf i AND O. COWIB AND CO.
1813.
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: : -
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TO
ARTHUR YOUNG, ESQ.
A GENTLEMAN
WHOSE IKDBFATIOABtB EXERTIONS, DURING A LOKO
AND ACTIVE UFE,
9ATE BBnr DntBCTBD TO THE PROMOTION OF THE BEST INTERESTS
OF HIS COUNTRY,
BTTHB
IMPROTEMENT OF ITS AGRICULTURE ;
THIS VOLUMF,
niaitnUlTe of
THE HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY
•V
StIFFOLKy SURREY, AND SUSSEX,
» ftuncmnxT nrscaiBBB
BT HB OBUOBP AMS OBU>IBirTSMTANT.
F. SHOBERL.
405230
, Google
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THE
BEAUTIES
OF
€tifilanli anb ?SKale0.
SUFFOLK.
SITUATION AND EXTENT.
OUFFOLK is bounded on the north by Norfolk^ on the east by
the German Ocean, on the south by Essex^ from which it is di-
vided by the river Stonr, and on the west by Cambridgeshire.
On Mr. Hodskinson's map of this county may be measured an
oblong of almost nnindented form, forty-seven miles long by
twenty-seven broad. The land stretching beyond it in the north-
east and north-west parts will more than compensate the deficiency
in other qoartera. This form indicates a surface of 1269 square
miles, or 812,160 acres. In Templeman's Survey, he makes it
only 1236 square miles ; but Mr. Arthur Young is of opinion that
the superficial contents of SnfiS>lk may be computed at about
800,000 acres.
Division a^d population.— Its two grand divisions are,
the franchise or liberty of Bury St. Edmund's, and the body of the
county, or guildable land, each of which furnishes a distinct grand
jury for the county assizes. These are subdivided into twenty-one
hundreds, comprehending 523 parishes. The hundreds^ according
to the return made in 1801, are as follow :
Vol. XIV. B HUN-
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0tmoix
HUNDREDS.
lahabi-
ted.
Baberg ^
Blackbourne...
Cosforcl
Hartismere..,
Hoxne ,
Lackford
Plome>gate .«
Risb ridge ..<•
Stow
Thedwestry ...
Thredling
Biythixig*
Bosniere and I
Claydon... (
Carlford ..,
Cohieis ,
Loets ,
Mutford and >
Lothingland 3
Samford
Tliingoe
Wangford
Wilford
Town of Bury
rpswich
Sudbury..
HOUSES.
By bow
inany fa-
milies
occupied
3147
1572
1250
1795
1750
1505
1145
1680
860
1070
593
2579
1590
665
39i^
1661
1089
716
1668
719
1360
2170
594
30;253
3944
219&
1615
2348
2487
2347
1710
2176
1081
1506
639
3432
t 1986
855
619
1992
1670 1913
1487
973
1987
1048
1648
2738
735
43,481
71
28
33
21
14
31
13
151
1
2
25
13
4
2
16
36
11
11
41
10
37
51
18
552
PenoDt
OCCUPATIONS.
Chiefly
employ-
ed m
Agrical-
lure.
lo tfmdei
muittlac-
turas, or
h«iidi-
craft.
18,685
10.7731
7,384
12,133
13.299
8,384
8,549
10,894
5,708
7,259
2,616
18,48<
10,042
4,300
2,946
9,578
9,409
7.457
4,982
10,037
5.298
7,655
1 1,277
3,283
210,431
3804
3057
1715
3557
4121
165
2525
4872
1486
2520
7436
7018
2760
1205
1273
2209
1666
2462
1510
2045
2506
94
448
39
55.744
[nail
other
occapft-
5393
1149
794
1562
168.
1571
842
1460
1537
774
165
3452
780
239
148
1664
703
491
441
1810
771
4198
1810
625
34,064
9588
5391
4875
6631
6083
5190
4643
3877
1933
3959
2008
8010
5947
2013
1525
5362
7043
3841
3031
6190
1924
3365
8733
2624
113692
In order to obtain an accurate knowledge of the population of8«f-
folk, Mr. Arthur Young took the trouble, in 1796, to mite to all the
rectors and vicars in the county, requesting the births and buiala
from their registers for the twenty preceding years, witii an ennme-
ration of the hooses and people. To above four hundred' letters, he
received two hundred and sixty answers. These enabled him to
form
* The last ten hundred are incorporated.
t lit the original here is an error ; it is entered 1086, bot by turning to tha
'deUil it appears to be ^986.
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8DFF0LK. '9
CNranaTory satiifiMtory table which afforded fhe following general
icanlta:
From 1776 to 1785 From 1786 to 1795.
Births^ 29,684 33,011
Deaths, 22,800 20,259
ExceflBofBiithSy 6,884 12,752
Firmn this comparison the natoral inference is, that the popula-
tion of the eonnty mnst either haye much increased, or that a con-
siderable emigration from it is constantly going forward. Both
Aese positions may, we think, safely be assumed as fiu^ts.
Cum ATS. — The climate of Suffolk is unquestionably one of the
driest in the kingdom ; but the frosts are severe, and the north-
east winds in spring are sharp and prevalent. Upon the whole,
however, the climate of this county must be reckoned &voiable ;
and it cannot but be extremely salubrious, to judge from the mor-
tality which, upon an average often years, appears to have been
to the existing population as one to fifty-four, while the number of
births was as one to thirty.
Soil.— It may be asserted that not a county in the kingdom
contains a greater diversity of soil, or more clearly discriminated
than Suffolk. A strong loam on' a clay-marl bottom, predominates
through the greatest parts, extending from the south-western
extremity at Wratting Park to North Cove near Beccles. Its
northon boundary stretches from Dalham by Barrow, Little
Saxham near Bury, Rongham, Pakenham, Ixworth, Honing-
ton, Knattishal, and then in a line near the Waveney to Bec-
eles and North Cove ; but every where leaving a slope and vale
of rich friable loam of various breadths, along the side of the
river. It then turns southward, to Wrentham, Wangford, BUth-
ford, Helton, Bramfield, Yoxford, Saxmundham, Campsey Ash^
Woodbridge, Cnlpho, Bramford, Hadleigh, and following the high
lands on the west side of the Bret, to the Stour, is thence bounded
by the latter river to its source, leaving idl along it a very rich tract
of slope and vale. It mnst not be supposed that in so large an ex-
B 2 tent
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* StFFOLK.
tent t]iere is no vartation; bat it may be obsenred at a general rate;
that wherever there are rivers in this space, the slopes descending
to the vales through which they ran, and the bottoms themselves
are of a superior quality, being in general composed of rich friable
loams ; and this holds even with regard to many inconsiderable
streams which fall into the larger rivers. The claef part of this
district wonld commonly, but improperly, be denominated clay,
for, upon analysis, the soil has been found to be much more im-
prcgnated with sand than its texture wonld seem to indicate.
Lying as it does upon a retentive clay-marl bottom, it may, from,
its wetness, be properly termed strong or clayey loam. This dis«
trict of rich loam is much less clearly discriminated. It compre-
hends the space left by the preceding district between the rivera
Stour and Orwell, and a tract of coast a few miles in breadth be«
twcen the latter and the Deben. It is composed of a vein of fri-
able, putrid, vegetable mould, more inclined to sand than clay,
and of extraordinary fertility. The best is about Walton, Trim-
toy, and Felixtow, where, for depth and richness, much of it can
scarcely be exceeded by any soils found in other parts of the
county, and would rank high among the best in England. In the
line from Ipswich to Hadleigh, it varies considerably, in many
places approaching sand, and in many places being much strong-
er. The general complexion, however, of the whole of Samford
Hundred is that of good loam.
Considering only the real quatity of the soil, the whole of the
maritime district of this county, with the exception just mentioned,
must be pronounced sandy ; towards the north much inclining to
loamy sands, and in others to sandy loams ; but so broken, di-
vided, and mixed with undoubted sands, that one term must be
applied in a general view to the whole. This district, Mr. Arthur
Young looks upon as one of the best cultivated in England, and
it is also one of the most profitable. Few districts in the county,
if any, abound with more wealthy farmers, or contain a greater
proportion of occupying proprietors, possessing from one hundred
to three and four hundred pounds a year. The inferior stratum of
' thin
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SUFFOLK. 9
iius di^ct varies considerably, but in general consists of sand,'
chalk, or crag, and in some parts of marl and loam. The crag is a:
singnlar mixture of cockle and other shells, foond in great masses
in >ariou8 parts of the county, from Dunwich, quite to the Or-
well, and even across that river to Wolverston park. It is both^
red and white, but generally of the former color, aad the shells so
broken as to resemble sand. There are pits to be seen, fi'om which'
great quantities of it have been taken to the depth of fifteen and
twenty feet, for improving heaths ; but on lands long in tillage;
the use is discontinued, as it is found to make the sands blow*
more.
The western sand district comprehends the whole north-western'
angle of the county, except the comer to the left of aline drawn
from Brandon to the conflux of the rivers Ouse and Lark. It con-
tains few spots of such rich sands as are found on the coast, but'
abounds with warrens and poor sheep-walks. Parts of this tract,
however, partake of the character of loamy sand; for instance, the
whole angle to the right of a line from Barrow to Honington, in
which no blowing or even very light sand is found. A more striking^
exception, though of smaller extent, is found at Mildenhall, in an
open field of arable land, dry, yet highly fertile and friable, without
being loose. The under stratum throughout almost all the district,
is a more or less perfect chalk, at various depths ; and, according to
the ^eminent agricultural writer already quoted, it may be received'
as a rule that, excepting the low vales contiguous to rivers, the'
whole of this part of the county is proper for sainfoin.
The fen district is confined to the comer cut off from the preced-'
ing. Its sarftice, to the depth of from one foot to six, is the
common peat bog. In some places it is black, and solid enough
to yield a considerable quantity of ashes ia burning ; but in others
more loose, puffy, reddish, and consequently of inferior quality.'
The under stratum is geiierally a white clay or marl. Part of these'
fens is under water, though subject to a tax for drainage, which has^
becQ attempted, but failed. In Burnt Fen, however, a late act of
yiarliament for improving the banks, has been put in execution
b3 with
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6 80FrOLK.
ivith such success, that 14,000 seres sn cosqpktsly <
under cultiyation.*
RiVers.— Suffolk is a well watered county ; its bouBdaries to
the south and nmrth are rivers nayigable to a considerable Mght»
and it is every where intersected with streams, which, if the prao*
tice of irrigation were more genovlly adopted, would be produfltm
of incalculable benefit
The Stour rises pn the west side of the county, on the bordeia
of Cambridgeshire, and first running southward to Haverhill, then
taks an eastern direction, and forms throughout its whole ooone
the boundary between Suffolk and Essex* It passes by SudUtary,
and after being joined by the Bret, and other smaDer streasss, re*
ceives the tide at Manningtree. Here increasing consideiaMy in
breadth. It presents a beautiful object at high-water to the fio^ sesA
and grounds of Mistly Thorn, the effect of which, however, is <
siderably diminished by its muddy channel and -oontractod i
during the ebb. It meets the Orwell from Ipswich, and their
united waters, having formed the port of Harwich, discharga
themselvci mto the German Ocean, between that town and Lsad-
guard Fort,
The Gipping has its source in the centre of the county nesr
Stowmarket. Running in a south-east direction, it wallers Ipo*
wich, and assuming below that town the name of the Orwell, pro«
ceeds to meel the Stour opposite to Hsrwich. The banks of this
river are in general picturesque, especially when it becooMS an
estuary below Ipswich, to which place it is navigaUe for ahips of
considerable burden. The banks there rise into pleasing eleva-
tions, beautifully fringe4 with wood, and adorned with seveisl
fine seats.
The Deben, which has its source nesr Debenham, ti^es a
south-eastern direction, and passing by Woodbridge fidls into tlio
German Ocean, a few miles to the north of the two preceding
rivers.
Tba
* To«itg*s Oen. View of the AgricaltiiTe of Soffollr, p. 6.
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Tlie Aid riacB iMur Frandiogham, and raiw aoatli-easi to Aid*
k>roQgb> wliere having approach^ to within a very snail distance
of the sea, it sudd^y takes a southeni diirectioa, and dischdurges
itself bdow Orfurd into the German Ocean.
7he Blythe has its source near Saxfield^ in the hundred of
Hoxne, whenoe ranmng eaat-iK^rth-ea^t to Halesworth^ it then
proceeds almost dne east to Blythhorgh and Southwold, where it
lalk into the sea.
The Larke rises in the south-Tcatem part of the county^ passes
Bmy and Mildenhall, and joins the Greait Ouse not &r from the
U^tertown.
The Waveney and little Onse have abeady been mentioned in
treating ^ Norfolk. The formeor, after ronning fifty nules to-
guards the sea in an eastern direction, and approaching its very
shores, is opposed by a risiiig ground, which gives it an abrupt
direction almost due north. This leads it to the river Yar; and
though its waters are suiBcient to give name to a harbour of ita
own, it merely aarists as a secondary river in denning and en-
lai|;ii^ the harbour of Yarmouth. The meadows through which
it passes with an even and gentle course, are supposed to be
amnnj]; the richest in England. Hither numerous herds of starved
cattle from the highlands of Scotland find their way, and soon
growing iaty continue their journey to supply the markets of the
e^^ital.*
itOADa AjfO CANAI.S. — The roads in every part of this county
are e:ieellent» the improvements made in them of late years being
almost ittconoeivahle : in m<wt directions, indeed, the traveller finds
eross oneae^nal to tnmpike*roads.
. The only canal in Sulfolk, which will be noticed in another
place, runs firom Ipswich to StowmariLet
Wooi»a«-<-The woods of Sufiblk scarcely deserve mentioning.
'Xhe strmi^ loams formeriy contained considerable quantities of
large oak ; but these have here, as in eyery other part of the king-
B 4 dom,
* Gilpin's Tour through Cambridge, Norfolk^ Suffolk, &c.
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8 SOFFOUL
dom, boen nmch kuened, and the tncoeiBioB that is coming oa
bMfs no proportion to the growth that preceded. In general
planting la undertaken more with a new to ornament than profit.
Wastes.— Though SofiA must be reckoned among the earliest
enckMed cf the Eng^h oounties, very \Bfge tracts yet want the
benefit of this first and greatest of all improyements. Some mo-
dern tnclosnres have been made by act of p«t4iament» but the ex-
amples are not well followed, though the success has been great.
The wastes of this county are calculated by Mr. Young,* firom
all the infi>nnalion which he could obtain^ Snda carefiil comparison
of yarioDs data, to amount to nearly, if not quite 100,000 acres, or
an eighth of the whole, comprehended under the terms sheep-
walk, common, warren, &c. " None of ^Mse,'* adds the writer just
mentioned, " are strictly speaking absolutely waste, if by that
term is understood land yidding nothing. T include all lands un«
cnhiTsted, which would admit of a yery great improyement, not
always profitable to the tenant, who may, on a small capital, make
a great interest per cent, by a warren, for instance, but in every
case to the public Many &rmas think sheep-walks necessary
for their flocks, which is very questionable. They arenudonbtedly
useful; and if they were converted into com, the number of sheep
kept upon a &rm might in a few cases decline; but good grass
adapted to the soil would be abundantly more productive for the
flock. Whoever has viewed the immense wastes that fill almost
the whole country from Newmarket to Tbetford, and to Gastrop
Gate, and which are found between Woodbridge and Orford, and
thence one way to Saxmundham, not to mention the numerous
heaths that are scattered every where, must be convinced that their
improvement for grass would enable the county to carry many
thousands of sheep more than it does at present.''
The following recent inclosures, with the yesr in whidi they
were made, and the quantity of land brought into ctilUvatibn, are
mentioned by Mr. Young.f
Coney
* Young's View of th« Agricoltiire of Saffolk, p. 16S.
t Ibid. 38--44.
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CmMyW«stoa .... 1777 - - - 1260 acres
Baniiiigiiam 1798 ... 560
Pak^eld and GUleham - 1798 ... 330
WoUington .... 1 1799 ... 860
Barton Mills .... . . . gOQ
Tuddenbam .... ... 1500
PaopfiRTT.^^The state of property in this county may be consi*
dered beneficial in its division. The largest estate is supposed
not to exceeed 8,dO(H. a year; there are three or four others
which rise above 5,0001. and about thirty others of 3,0001. and
upwards. Below this standard there are many of ail sizes : bat a
circumstance which strongly indicates the prosperity of this por-
tion of the kingdom, is the great number of yeomen, or formers
occupying their own lands, of a value rising from 1001. to 4001.
a year. These, as Mr. Young emphatically remarks, are '' a
inost vduable set of men, who having the means, and the most
powerfol inducements to good husbandry, carry agriculture to a
high degree of perfection.''
The great mass of the county is freehold property; but copy-
holds are numerous, and some of them extensive. The farms in
Suffolk musty in a general light, be reckoned large ; and to this
eiieumstanee chiefly may be attributed the good husbandry so
commonly fionnd in the county. In the district of strong wet
loun there are many small fiums from 201. to 1001. a year; but
these are intermixed with others rising from 1501. to 3001. and
even higher. In the sand districts they are much larger, from 3001.
to 800L or 9001. Here owing not a little to these large occupa-
tiens in the hands of a wealthy tenantry, agriculture is carried to
great perfection.
The usual terms fer leases are seven, fourteen, and twenty-ont
years. Few counties have been more improved by the latter than
Bttflblk. By means of such leases, whole tracts in the sandy dis-
tricts have been converted from warren and sheep-walks into pro-
dnctive indosnres. They have caused large tracts to be hollow-
drained; and occasioned an improved i^oitivation in almost evevy
. respect.
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10 svirMx.
respect, vlMrfr it depended •« ike cxpeaditww ^tkagm wmm them
ere laid est by frnnen nmUe w uMriUiog ti^ mfce saefa CKer*
tione.
Mr. Yomig* giret the following ectimate «r the total iwtel of
theeonnty, foand^dnpontliediTiaioaof it aeoordiiigtetlioaoil:
30,000 acres^ fens, at 46 • 6»00Q|.
46,666} rich loam^ at 18s 41^,0001.
156,666} sand» at 12s 93,9901.
113,333^ do. at 6s 33,9
453,333| strong loam, at l6s 362,6
800,000 S36,€ML
BviLi>iNa«-~OB a muney of the hoildiaga ia gaoend of due
county, the neglect of elegance and cosvenienee in tkoae of genr
tlemen of a certain property , aa well aa in fcra^'Uaaoi,
&il to atrike the obeenrer. The latter, indeed, are
proved within the laat twenty or thirty yeai% hat even at )
they are too often huiH of lalh and plaiatcr, which deca]^ag in a
ahort tune, eanie repaiia to he ao heavy a dednctmi Aon tho Mh
ceipta of an eatatcf
Though aome individuals have BMst landahly diatingninhed
themaelves by building neat and coBBfortahle cottagaa for the 1^
boring poor, the amall profit which the rent alforda, haapreroBted
this practice from being fteqaeBt. The coltagea of Snfblk in ge>
neral are bad habitations) deficient in contrivance for wanntb and
convenience, the state of repair bad, and the want of gardena tap
common. The general rent of them ia firom two to thfae ponndi^
with or without a small garden.
State of the Poon. — The amount of money levied in this
county in 1803, for the maintenance of the poor, was 149,6461.
heiag
* General View of tbo Agricnlmre of Soffolk, p. fO.
f The eilenC to which thk evil operates in the eattera part of the kingdom
is leaccely credible. Mr. Youig inforau «•» that oa one ctfate of aboiA
1,5001, m year, the repaiit amoanted in eleren yean to above 4,000L
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WiBgftI the isto ^t4B. lOidinthe fonaA. TIm Mrtnngabr oir-;
eoauKUiiee rdatiiig to the po<Nr in Suifelk, ib the mooqHnrfttion of.
varioQB lumdreds for erectiag and mp^^ortiag hoiwesof industry*.
The local iBconvenieace and distzesg arising frpm the -niunber oC*
poor» and the expenee of maintaining them^ occasioned many dis*.
tricts in the connty to apply to parliament for the power of incor-
ponitingtliemBelTes, and of legohting the employment^ and main-
tenance of the poor hy certain rules not authorized by the existisig
poor laws. Several acts of parliament accordingly passed, incor-.
porating those districts^ wh«re the poor have since been governed
and supported aocordiog to the power given by snch acts. The
result of an actual esamination of these institutions by T. Rog-
gles, Esq. is given by Mr, Young in the following terms :*
** In the incorporated hundreds, the houses of industry strike.
one in a diflerent light from the cottages of the poor. They are
all built in as dry, healthy, and pleasant situations, as the vjcir
nity afi)rds; The offices, sudi as the kitchen, brewhanse, bake-,
house, buttery, laundry, larder, cellars, are all large, convenient^
and k^qpt extremely neat ; the work-rooms are large and well aired;,
and the sexes are kept apart, both in hours of work and lecreatiiML
The dormitories are alsolaige, airy, and conveniently di^sed;.
separate rooms for children of each sex, adults and aged. The«
married hare each a separate apartment to themselves ; mothers
with narse cUldren are also by themsdves. The infirmaries are
large, conv«niettt, liry, and comfortable; none without fire-
places. All the houses have a proper room for the necessary dis-
pensary; and niost of them a surgeon's room besides. The hails
in all are large, oonvenient, well ventilated with two or more fire-
places, and calculated, with respect to room, for tiie reception of
fall as amny as the other convenieaces of the house can contain. .
** The chapels are aU sufficiently large, neat, and p)ain ; several
of them rather tending to giindeur and elegance. There were
two houses which had no chapeb : one of them made use of a room
ample enough for the congregation, properly fitted up, and kept
ve^
'• General View of the AgricaltsM of 8iilfolk, p. £51.
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12 BVtTOUL.
very neat ; tiie other attended the perbh choreh. The apartiiiait»
far the governor were in all the honees laiye and conveniently
diflposed. In one or two these apartments ware ratiier more spa-
oioaa and elegant than necenary. There are also eonrenient store-
houses and warriionses lor keeping ^he maairfMtnres of the house,
the raw matertaUi> clothing, &c. for the nae joi the inhahttants.
^' The land belonging to the honses, and the gardens in parti-
enlar are calcalated for producing a sofficient quantity of vegeta-
Me diety so necessary to the health, as well as agreeable to the
palate of the inhabitants.
" In general the appearance of all the houses of industry in the
approach to them, somewhat resembles what we may suppose of
the hospitable lai^ mansions of our ancestors in those times when
the gentry of the country spent their rents among their neighbors,
** The interior of these houses must occasion a most agreeable
surprise to all those who have not before seen poverty but in its
miserable - cottage, or more miseraUe work-house. Their neat*
ness, whidi had so pleasing an eSidct on the eye, was the atose
also that the other senses were not di^;nsted by that constant at^
tendant on collected filth and foul air, a noisome stench, as delete*
rions to human life, as it is in general nauseating to those who
accidentally breathe such an atmosphere.
" The practice of freqn«it white-washing, does much toward
preserving the air of these houses sweet and wholesome; but the
constant attention of those who perform the offices of the house is
absolutely necessary ; and even that is insufficient, unless the halls,
working rooms, and dormitories, have the external air admitted
through the windows, whenever it can be done with safety to the
inhabitants with respect to catching cold. The neatness and
cleanliness which prevailed in their halls at the hour of refection,
were also laudably observable; most of these houses of industry
being visited at the hours of breakfast, dinner, or supper."
Mr. Rnggles, who fomished the preceding observations on the
houses of industry, proceeds to examine three imjKfftant queiP
tions:
}. Have
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I. Qcve these institatiofiis amended the morals of the poor?
%■ Have they tended to diminish the burthen of expense to soci-
ety attending their relief and maintenance ?
3. Haye they increased, or do they tend to decrease thechance
of human life P
The two first ^estions he answ^s unequivocally in the affirma-
tire, supporting his opinion by fiicts; and with regard to Uie
third, he says :^' That it is not on experience determined in
their &vor also, arises from the difficulty of requiring every infor-^ .
mation necessary to its inrestigation ; and from the inability of the
writer to apply with precision, and certainty of proot such fiicts as
he had obtained, lie still believes that this point will, whenever
it Alls under the pen of a more acctbrate inquirer and able political
arithmetician, conduce also to the recommendation of district incor-
porated houses of industry, as tending to increase the chance of
life and population."
It appears from the list in the office of the clerk of the peace for
the county, that those admirable institutions, benefit clubs, flou*
rish considerably in Suffolk. The number of these clubs amount
to 219, containing 7709 members.
Agriculture. — It is no smdil praise for the fiirmers of this
county to assert, that they are little, if at all, behind their north-
em neighbors in the improved cultivation of their lands ; and in-
deed several beneficial practices are to be observed among the
former to which the latter are still strangers. To point out these
peculiarities, will be one of the principal objects of this article.
Though the dairy district of Suffi)lk is extensive, and the num-
ber of sheep grelit, yet the arable part of the county is by far the most
considerable. One of the greatest improvements in the manage-
ment of arable lands, particulariy if they be of a strong wet nature,
was, till very lately, confined to this county. It consists in avoid-
ing ail, or nearly all,. spring plowings. Enlightened cultivators
hare extended this system to autumnal sowings : they scarify and
scuffle, rake, clear, and bum, till the surface is fine enough for the
drill to work, and then leave it till rain comes for drilling. This
practice
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14
pnetice not odjobrntoaMiy ^Hkdlmto wUehiheinMriris
'etfcmti fcj.tte metliod fcnnerly ponmed, l«t by kaTing a firm
bottom for the roots of wheat, it Iim precluded ttie cohibmmi malady
'of root-fidlen crope.'* " Tkia general r^eelkm ef tillage by the
plough, whenever circwmitancea permit, I ooaaider/' aays Mr.
Tovng,* " as one of tiie greatest, if not the greatest improvement
in modem hosbaadry. It baa changed the hoe of the greatest
part of this eonnty, and will change the &ee of others as frst as
'it is intarodnced with sidU and intdligenoe.'' In consefaenee of
the adoption of this system, drilling has become yery general,
especially vpon day land; and i^peara likely to spread to every
part of the county. Dibbttng is also very common.
The management of the arable land, and the conrses of crops^
diSsr essentially, in the fonr distinct soils of whioh Sofiblk cbn-
sista. In the strong soils, the more general coarse indndes sum-
mer fidlow as the common preparation hr the rotation of com-
prodncta, on the principle that when once given, the fiurmer will
be enabled to omit it at the second retmm, and even at tiie third
also, by means of clover, tares, pease; &c. This prindple governs
many variaUoos, bat where snfScient manure can be procured, the
best course is as follows: I. Falfew. 3. Wheat 3. Beans. 4.
Barley. 5. Clover. 6. Wheat.
On the rich loam and sand, the rotation called tiie Norfolk hus-
bandry is very generally introduced. It is this : 1. Turnips. 2.
Barley, 3. Clover, 4. Wheat.
On the sand districts, the management difiers according to the
badness of the soil, but it is uniform in one feature, that tumipa
are every where the preparation for both com and grass. After
them barley is generally sown, and grass seeds succeed, but witl^
variations. In Samford Hundred, where the fiurmers are excel-
lent managers, their course is: I. Turnips. 2. Barley. 3. Tre-
foil and ray-grass. 4. Peas dibbled. 5. Barley.
In the fenny part of the county, the method generally pursued,
is to sow cole-seed on one plowing, after paring and homing,
* Graeral View of the Agricnltars of Sufiblk, p. 70.
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-WBTfiaJL 15
tkim M« twke m ttooeMon; inOt the hst of thefee tiiey Uy
down with imy^inM and clover far six or seven years^ then pore
obi hatL, tad |^epeot Hie same htuAMOidry.
The erops eommonly cultivated in Suffolk are : wheat, horley.
oala, rye, beam, P^>m> hndL-wheat ; which, on the very poorest
sands, is more common than in nmny other parts of England, and
toforsnehsoSsavery vdnablecrop; tares; cole-seed, one of th»
prtteipal pvodnetionB of the fen-district, and which, as food for
sheep, exceeds tamips both in r^;ard to fottening and milk; tor-
nips, clover, trefoil, white clover, and sainfoin.
TlMdops not commonly cnltivated consist of hops, cabbage%
eaiitols, luoerae, chicory, potatoes, and hemp.
The onHivalion of hops, inlrodaced into England in the reigm
of Henry VIIL seems to hare been early attended to in this
oovnty. Bnllm, who wrote his Suhoarke of Defence in the
middle of the sixteenlii centnry, mentions their growing at Bru-
siard, war Fhmilingham, and in many other places. The same
writer, in Ms G&vemmeni of Health, observes, that " though
there eometh many good hops from beyond sea, yet it is known
ttsKt the goodly stilles and fruitful grounds of England do bring
forth nnto man's use, as good hops as groweth in any place in
this world, as hy proof I know in many places in the countie
of SaflbttLe, whereas they brew their beere with the hops that
groweth upon their own grounds.'' Fh>m the manner in which
Toaser, who was a Snflblk farmer about the same time, mentions
ihem, and the frequent directions which he gives respecting their
management, it may be inferred, that almost every person who
had a proper spot, cultivated some at least for his own use. This
. crop, however, is very little cultivated at present in Suffi>lk, except
at Stowmarket, and in its neighborhood, where there are about
fiOOacres.
In Vegnrd to cabbages, Mr. Young observes, that the heavy
yartof Snfiblk is Hie only district in England, where, to hisknow-
« ledge, tb«r culture is established among many common formers.
/ |t Is, iMhr^ver, of lato years considerably declined, from the idea
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1« fttTfOUL
UmttlibplaBlexIttwto tiM gnmnd, n opaioa whidi tkrt <
fcrale^ agricoJtiirtit thinks feanded on ill mnuigement.
Tb€ enltiration of cmrrois in Ute Sftodling*, or district witiiia
the line iomed bj Woodliridgc, flnnmnwdham^ and Oribrd, bvt
extending to Leiston, is one of the most inteiesting ohjects in the
agrieohore of Britain. From Norden's Snrreyors' Dialogne, it
appears that carrots were commonly coltivated in this district two
eentories ago ; a fact which demonstrates how long soch practicea
may be confined to the aame spot^ and how mnch time is repaired
to extend them. For many years they were chiefly raised for the
London market; hot other parts of the kingdom haTing rivalled
Snfiblk in this anpply, they are now principally caltiTated as ibod
for drao^ horses. It has been feand by long experience, that
this food keeps those animals in mnch finer condition, and enables
them to go throogh all the work of the season better than com and
hay. For horses that are ridden &st» they are not equally proper.
They are also foaad to be of the greatest nse for fattening bul-
locks, and feeding cows, sheep, and swine. The expense of an
acre is aboat eight guineas, and the value firom twelve to fifteen.
The merit of introducing chieory into the husbandry of England,
belongs to Mr. Young, a native and inhabitant of this county.
The tract in which hemp is chiefly found, extends from Eye to
Beccles, and is about ten miles in breadth. It is cultivated both
by farmers and cottagers, though it is very rare to see more than
five or six acres in the bands of one person. This is an article of
considerable importance, on account of the employment afforded
by the various operations which it requires. In the ab9ve-menti«-
oned district, indeed, the poor are entirely supported by this ma*
nubcture. The Suffolk hemp is superior in strength and quality
to that of Russia; the cloths woven from it are of various degrees
of fineness and breadth, from lOd. a yard, half ell wide, to 4s. and
4s. 6d. ell wide. It also makes very good huckaback for fk^wels,
and common table-cloths. The low-priced hempa are a general
wear for servants, husbandmen, and laboring manufoctuvers ; those
from 18d. to 3s. a yard, for ftrmera and tradesmen; while the
fiaer
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SUFFOLK. IT
Mmt sorb tnm dft. 6d. to 38. 6d. are preferred by many gentle^
men hr strength and warmih to other linen.
Saflron was formerly cultivated to a considerable extent in Snf-
iblk. This oriental plant was first grown in England in the reign
tf Edward III. and was much nsed by our ancestors. In 1366;
no less than eighteen poimdsof saffiron were consumed in the house*
hoM of Margaret, Countess of Norfolk, at Framlingham Castle, in
fins cototy. It long continued to be a considerable article of cook-
ery, as well as medicine ; but from the revolution in manners and
tehions, its use has greatly decreased. It was chiefly raised m
Norlbflt,' Snjfelk, Essex, and Cambridgeshire, though now its cal«
tare is confined chiefly to the last Several pieces of land in this
eonnty are still named from it : at Fomham St. Genevieve, is a
piece called tiie Safiit»n Yard ; another at Great Thurlow, the
Saflron Ground; and a piece of glebe land near Finningham
Church-yard, is denominated the Saffi-on Pans, or Panes, probably
firom the slips or beds in which the plants were set.
Among the manures employed by the SuflToIk farmers, the spe<*
eies called crag may be noted as peculiar to this county. It is
composed of dry powdered shells, and formerly produced a very
great improvement in that part of the maritime district called the
Sandlings, south of Woodbridge, Orfbrd, and Saxmundham, by
being spread on the black ling heaths with which that whole tract
was formerly covered. Its efiect, however, like that of lime, has
often been found to decline on repeating the application.
' Irrigation, one of the greatest improvements in modem agricul-
ture, is very little practised in Suffolk, where large tracts of poor
and unproductive arable land are to be seen in almost every parish,
at least in the vicinity of every stream, below the level in which
water might be made to flow. Some spirited individuals, indeed,
have within these few years, sent for men from other counties,
where* the practice is understood, to irrigate their meadows; and
it is sincerely to be wished that their example may be generally
ibUowed.
If Suffolk has not acquired such high reputation for its live stock
^ Vol, XIV, C as
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18 SUFFOMk
as some «di^ counties, this mnst be ascribed rather lo Uie vaft^
of attention in the breeders, than to the want of a capability o(
improvement in the animals themselTes. The cows have long
been celebrated for the abundance of Ihoir milk, which^ consi*
^ering their size, and the quantity of food, hi exeoedn the
produce of any other race in the island. Though the peculiar
breed of this county is spread all oyer it, yet a tract of twenty milea
by twelve, is more especially the seal of the dairiea. Thin space
is comprehended within a line druwn from the parish of Codden-
bam to Ashbocking, Otley, Charlsfield, Letheringham, HatchesUMi/
Parham, Framiingham, Cransford, Bruisyard, Badingham, SibtoB/
Peveningham, Cookly, Linstead, Metfield, Wethersdale, Fres^
singfield, Wingfield, Hoxne, Brome,' Thrandeston, Gislingham,
f inningham, Westrop, Wyverston, Gippmg, Stonham, Greeting*
^d again to Coddenham. The cows of Suffolk are universally
polled, as the fiinners sell all the calves that would have home,
reserving only such aa have none for stock. The size is small^
few rising, when fattened, to fifty stone, at fourteen pounds each.
7he characteristics of this breed are : — a clean throat, with little
dewlap; a thin clean snake head; thin legs; a very large car-
ease; a rib tolerably springing from the centre of the back, but
Irith a. heavy belly; back-bone ridged; chine, thin and hollow;
Join narrow ; udder large, loose, and creased when empty ; milk*
jreins remarkably large, and rising in knotted pufi to the eye ;
a general luibit of leanness ; hip-bones high and ill-covered, and
scarcely any part of the carcase so formed, and covered as t«
please the eye accustomed to &t beasts of the finer breeds. It is
nevertheless remariced, Uiat many of them fiitten remarkably well,
imd their flesh is of a fine quality. . The best milkers are in gene-
pl, red, brindled, or of a yellowish cream color. The quantity of
milk yielded by one of these cows is from five to eight gallons a
|iay. Some years since cabbages were universally cultivated as
a|i article of food for cows, far superior to hay, but this practice,
as elsewhere observed, is now on the decline. Another peculiarity )
in the Sttfiblk management, is that of tying up these animals in '
the i
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81TFF0LK*. 19
the diAis, wiDioiit liome, shed, or roof, to eover them. A rough
manger is formed irith rails and stakes ; the cows are tied to posts,
about three feet from each other, and hare at their heads a screen
of frggots. Litter is regnlariy giTcn, and the daog piled up be-
hind. For cows before calving this is found better than suffering
them to range at will ; the shelter of the hedge and dung keeping
them sufficiently warm without any cover.
' The quantity of butter computed to be sent from Sufiblk to
London annually, is about 40,000 firkins.
In those parts of the county where the cattle do not consume
an the turnips, it is a common practice to buy black cattle at hm
from north country drovers for the purpose. Some of these are
Irish, otiiers Welch, but the greater part Scotch, of different
breeds. These, after being frittened, generally continue their
journey to supply the markets of the metropolis.
- The Norfolk, or, as it might with greater propriety be denomi-
nated, the Su£folk breed of sheep, since the most celebrated flocks
are found about Bury, is difiused over almost every part of the
county. For the quality of the mutton, as long as cool weather
lasts; for tallow; for fritting at an early age; for the fineness of
the wool, which is the third in price in England ; for endurance of
hard driving ; for hardiness and success as nurses, this race is
deservedly esteemed. These excellencies are however counter-
balanced by their voiacity, a want of tendency to fritten, resultiog
from an ill-formed carcase, and a restless and unquiet disposition ;
a texture of flesh that will not keep in hot weather so long as that of
South Down sheep, and a loose ragged habit of wool. In conse-
quence of these bad qualities, the breed has been nearly changed
in the last twenty-five years, tiie South Down now being every
where prevalent. This new race was unquestionably introduced
by Arthur Young, Esq. a hid not depending upon any present
assertion respecting what was done many years ago, but published
at the time in the Aimals of Agricukure, They afterwards
passed into Norfolk^ in consequence of Mr. Young's recommenda-
lion of them to the late Earlof Orford; and thus to the exertions
G3 of
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M tVFFOXJC.
of this gentleman wa« o^ing the estabUduneal •f a hnti of abecp
thrmighoQt two ooonties, to tlie benefit of soYanl tlioaMiiida 9f
fonners, and to the advantage of their landiorda, fr^m that riaci
^f rent which haa since taken place.
In regard to the namber of aheep in the whole county. Mi.
Yoang calcuktea, that the sand districts have one sheep to twf
acres ; the rich and strong loams, one to fonr acres, and the fen
district one to six acres. According to these proportiona the
asmber will be :
Sand 270,000 acres aheep 135,000
Loam 500,000 100,000
Fen 30,000 5,000
340,000
Soffolk is not leto celebrated for ita breed of horses, than for it|
eowa. They are found in the. highest perfection in the maritime
district extending to Woodbridge, Debenham, Ey^ and Lowe^
stoff : but the prime of this breed were some yeaia since to be met
with upon the Saadlings, south of Woodbridge and Orford.
About half a century ago a considerable spirit of breeding and of
drawing team against team, prevailed among the iarmera of that
country^ one of whom is moitioned by Mr. Yoang aa haidqg
drawn fifteen horses for 1500 guineas. The hoiaea of thia oU
breed were in some respects the reverse of handsome, of a aorrel
color, very low in the fore-end, with a large ill-ahapen head,,
slouching ears, a great carcase, short lege and short back. Their
power of drawing was very great ; but they could trot no more
than a cow. Of late years, by aiming at coach^horses, the
breeders have produced a more handsome, light and active ani-
mal, which, if fiuriy compared with the great black horse of tha
midland counties, will, it is presumed by competent judges, beat
the latter in usefid draft, that of the cart and plough.
Another peculiarity, besides the feeding of hones on carroti^
may be noticed iu the mode of treating these animals in Suflblk.
This i$, that in the eastern diitricta they are never permitted to.
9 « remain
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ftiTFFOLi. a
t#mia6 in Ihe MAk tt nigbt; being turned otit into a yard well
Uttered with atraw, tbA supplied with plenty of good sweet oat or
harley straw to eat, bat never clover or hay. With this treat*
ttent, a horse never has swelled legs, and seldom any other iil-
meat: he is kept in as fine condition, and will bold his work seve-
ral years longer than one confined in tlie stable.
Of the hogs of Sofiblk it may be observed, that the short white
breed of the cow district has great merit. These animals are welt
made, with thick, short noses, small bone, and light ofials, btti
are notqaite so prolific as some worse made breeds.
With ponliry this county is extremely well supplied, and espe*
eially with turkies, for which it is almost as celebrated as Norfolk.
Great quantities of pigeons are reared in the numerous pigeon-
houses, in the opeh field part of the county, bordering on Cam«
bridgeshire.
Bees are very little attended to in general ; though in the neigh •
borhood of uncultivated lands they would probably admit of a con-
siderable increase.
Sofiblk tMmtains many rabbit-warrens, especially in the western
sand district One of them, near Brandon, is estimated to return
above 40,000 rabbits in a year. Of late years, hoireyer, consider**
Me tracts occupied by them have been plowed up, and converted
into arable and pasture land.
Among the implements of agriculture peculiar to Suffolk, or
invented and first employed in this county, may be reckoned, the
Suffolk swing plough ; the horse-rake for clearing spring-corn
bubbles; the new drill-plough invented by Mr. Henry Balding,
of Mendham, who was ten years in bringing it to perfection, at a
considerable expense ; threshing mills on the improved construc-
tioii of Mr. Asbey, of Blithborough ; and the extirpator, or scalp-
plough, a machine for destroying weeds, and clearing plowed
lands for seed, invented by Mr. Hay ward, of Stoke Ash. A gen*
tleraan of this county has also contrived a moveable stage for
building the upper parts of stacks of hay or corn, and which may
b« equally trett appti^ to other useful purposes.
C3 To
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S2 SmPFOLK.
. To agricttltonJ soeietieB, which in other (Mrts of the kingdom
have heen prodacti?e of great and exten«iye henefit, Suffolk in
perhaps less indebted than any other county. The only institutioa
of this kind, is the Melford Society^ which meets alternately at
Bury and Melford. On its first establishment, some of the mem-
bers read memoirs of experiments, which appeared in the Annals
of Agricnkure ; but for some years this has been dropped. A few
premiums were offered, but never claimed, for which reason they
have likewise been discontinued.
Commerce and MANurACTUREs. — The commerce and mann-
&cturesof Sufiblk are inconsiderable in comparison with those of
many other counties of England ; and even those are, from Tariona
causes, upon the decline.
The imports are the same as in all the other maritime counties :
and com and malt are the principal exports. Lowestoff is cele*.
brated for its herring fishery, which was formerly more produc-
tive than at present; and of which farther notice will be taken in
treating of that town.
The principal &bric of the county was, till lately, the spinning
and combing of wool, which extended throughout the greatest part
of Suffolk, with the exception of the district in which the mann-
fikcture of hemp is exclusively carried on. In the year 1784, the
woollen fabric was estimated by Mr. Cakes, of Bury, to employ
37,600 men, women and children, whose earnings amounted, upon
an average, to 150,0001. per annum. The Norwich manufacture
alone employed nearly half of the above number. At present this
fabric is far from being so flourishing in this county, having been
chiefly transferred to Yorkshire.
At Sudbury there is a manufju^tiure of says, and also a small silk
manufactory- ; and some calimancoes are still made at Lavenham.
General History — Suffolk, so called from the Saxon ap-
pellation Sud/olk, or southern people, in contradistinction to the
Nord/olk, or northern people, constituted, at the time of the in-
vasion of the Romans, part of the district belonging to the tribe,
whom those conquerors denominated Iceni, or Cenomanni. Their
t history
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SUFFOLK. M
Ufliol^ h$B already been g^ven in preceding Tolnmes of tlus work^.
Tn the Roman division of the island, it was comprehended in th«
proyince of Flayia Caesariensis,
When the Romans, after a possession of four centuries, aban-
doned Britain to its fiite, and the Saxons, on the invitation of its
pusillanimous iohabitants, had made themselves complete masters
of the country, Suffolk, constituted with Norfolk and Cambridge^
shire, <me of the seven petty kingdoms, into which these new
masters parcelled out the island. It was denominated East An-
glia. To this state the German Ocean formed a natural barrier on
the east and north-east ; the Stour divided it from the kingdom
of the East Saxons, or Essex, on the south ; and on the west and
north-west it bordered upon Mercia. The boundary on this side
has not been accurately ascertained ; but it is the general opinion,
that the stupendous effi)rt of human labor, known by the name of
the Devil's Ditch, on Newmarket Heath, was formed as a line of
demarcation and mutual defence. This opinion is encouraged by
the account of Abbo Floriacensis, who says, that " on the west
part is a ditch and mound like a lofty wall/' By subsequent mo-
nastic writers it has been termed St. Edmund's Ditch ; and many
antiquaries and historians have adopted this appellation.
F^m the various and contradictory statements of ancient writers,
the precise period of the establishment of the monarchy of the East-
Angles by Uffii, cannot be fixed with certainty ; but we shall not
probably be far from the truth, if we assume the year dSO of the
Christian era as the date of that event. Ufia, after a long reign,
died in 578, and was succeeded by Titil, whose history is involved
in the darkest obscurity. His death is supposed to have happened
in 592, when his son, Redwald, inherited the kingdom,>andwaa
the first East- Anglian monarch who embraced Christianity ; but
the influence of his queen occasioned his relapse into the doctrines
of paganism. His son, Eorpwald, who ascended the throne in
#24, also professed the Christian religion, though the greater part
C4 of
. ^ See VcO- II. p. S. Vol. VIT. p. 3«5 j and Vol. Xh. Norfolk, p. 7.
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94 BVTWU*
of his tiibjecU glill continued in the radeot itafto of i4ohtry«
After a short reign of six years^ he was hssdy murdered by Uio
hand of a relation. The honor of giving Christianity a pemanenl
footing in East-Anglia was reserved Ibr Sighreeht, or Sigehert.
the successor of £orpwald« Thb prince wan the son hy a ibnner
marriage of Redwald's second qneen ; and inding that the popa«
larity which his amiable qualities and acoonplishments obtained
for him, had excited the jealousy of his step«&ther« be retired to
France. There he became a proficient in the literature of the ago*
and a zealous professor of the Christian &ith. From this volan*
tary exile Sigebert was recalled on the death of his half-brother^
for the purpose of being placed on the vacant throne. He t^rooght
over with him Felix, a learned and pious Bargundian priest, whom
he appointed bishop of Dunwich, In consequence of the inde&»
tigable exertions of this prelate^ and the judicious assistanfe of
the sovereign, the latter soon had the satisfiMTtion of wito^ssiaf
the general conversion of his subjects to the Christian &itb. To
this monarch the town of Bury was indebted for the germ of the
ecclesiastical distinction to which it afterwards attained : ibr here
Sigebert founded a monastery, and bailt a church, which he dedi*
cated to the Blessed Virgin, After a reign of seven yenrs, mo-
tives of mistaken piety impelled this prince to resign the carea of
a crown to his kinsman Egric, and to become a monk in hia own
convent The royal recluse was not destined long to enjoy the
pleasures of retirement Penda, king of Mercia, having turned
his arms against the East-Angles, Sigebert was prevailed npoa
to quit his monastery, and to assuind the command of their army.
His attempt to oppose the invader proved unsuccessful, both him^
self apd Egric being slain in 644. The crown now devolved to
Anna, the nephew of Redwa}d, a prince distinguished for wisdom
and valor, Notwithstanding these qualities, he was unable to
cope with the superior power of Penda ; and after an unequal con-
test of ten yeun, he bravely fell with his son Firminus, in a^
obstinate battle fought at BuUchamp, near Dunwich, in 665,
The remains of the two princes wer^ interred at piithburgh, but
after-
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•VFFOU. M
iift#rPM<PfeBM»iedl»the<HwyclMgch<lBiJry> TheaaaittMtt
aflonkd to Penda by EtMrod, the nnaatenl brotber of Amu^
now pravured bis eleyatioo to the throne of Ea8^Anglk» which
continaod ta be governed by its oiwn princes tHI OA» khig of
M^i^ia, Aoid the year 793, basely aMawinated Ethetbtft, nod
seized his. kingdom. RsTsged by eontending annies, the conn*
try was eonverted into a soene of bhM^dshed and desolation, bat In
628 it was obliged to anbmit to tho pveponderating power elf
Egbert, king of the West^Sazons. That monarch, instead of
incmrpooting East*Anglia with his own doaunions, snAred it to
lesMin as m tributary state under its own sovereigns, the last of
whom was the mliNtanate Edmnnd, dignified after his desA
with the titles of Saint and Mar^. -
The snbaeqnent history of Sofiblk having heen alnady related
In that of Norfolk.* it will h^ suiicient to remark, that among
other districts laid waste by Sweyne, king of DenmariL, on hi$
invasion of England* this county suffisred most severely from his
ravages ; neither towns nor churches being spared^ unless redeemed
by the inhabitants with large sums of money : but to compensate
In some measure for this treatment, Canute^ his son and sue*
cesstf;, shewed it particular kindness.
When William the Conqueror had by his sword made good his
claim to the English crown, and confiscated the estates of the
Saxon nobility and gentry throughout the kingdom, in order to
reward the valor or fidelity of his principal officers, the covnty of
Snffdk was parcelled out among them in the following manner :
To Hi%h do Abrineis, Earl of Chester, his sister's
son, he gave .•-•-*, ••-•32 manors
To Robert, Earl of Morton and Cornwall ^ « - 10
To Odo of Champagne, Earl of Albemarle and
Holdernease r-i-i.--.i-»»^^-14
To William Warren, Earl ot Surrey r • ^ • - IS
^Bndode Rye, steward of his household * . . U)
r«
« 9pt Seaotip> Vol. 3p:. {Norfolk, p. fi, &«•
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36 annou*
ToWi]liamM8lel,IoidorEyeiii«Uieo«iit]r - - SU
To Robert de Todenei, a noble Nomuui - • • . 4
To Robert de Sliflbrd %
To AlbericdeVere^Eait of Oxford 9
To Jeflfery de MagnaTil, or Maaderifl .... 96
To Richard de Tonebmge, or de Claro • • . • 96
To Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk 117
To Ralph de linien ----------11
To Hugh de Grentmaiiiiell ....... 1
To Peter de Valoines 6
To Ralph Bainaid .-17
To Swene de Essex .......•--.9
To Roger de Aabervil -.•^•^-•♦•H
To Robert Bloimd, or Blnnt *- 13
At the same time Ralph Waher« or Gaadw/ was by the cos*
^eror oonstitated earl« or chief governor of this oonnty, aa well
as Norfolk ; bat this nobleman having conspired against the king«
mB obliged to fpdt the conntry, upon vhieh his titles were con-
ferred on Roger Bigod.
In the reign of Henry II. about the year 1173, Robert, Earl
of Leicester, having taken part with Henry, the eldest son of
that monarch, whose ambition, inflamed by the king of FVanee^
tempted him to aspire to the throne of his frther, invaded this
eonnty with an army of Flemings, and was joined by Hogh Bigod,
earl of Norfolk. This force overran nearly the whole eonnty ; bnt
being met near Bnry, by the royal troops, nnder the lord chief jus-^
tice, they were rented with great slaughter, and the earl himself
taken prisoner. By these two armies Saflfolk was at this time
miserably laid waste, especially in the neighboriiood of the place'
where the battle was fought:
During the first war between the barons and king John, Hngh
de Boves, a French knight, not less remaikable for his valor,
than for his arrogance, promised to bring over a strong army td
the assistance of the latter. In consideration of this intended
service,
• See Beaotiei, VqI. XL Korfolk, p. eo.
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ivnoii|c* 9t.
Mnrice, be obtained oUhe king adourter, gnntiBg Urn the ooim-.
ties of Norfolk and Snfiblk, from which he designed, as it was
rqK>ited, to expel the inhabitants, and to re-people them with
foreigners. With this view he assembled a formidable army at
Calais. These troops, with their wives and children, being
there embari^ed with an intent to land at Dover, were overtaken
by so violent a tempest, and Hugh himself, and all his followers,
perished, Matthew Paris computes the total number of lives
lost on this occasion at 40,000. The king was thus disap-i
pMUted of the expected succour; but the inhabitants of SuffoUt;
were not a lijktle rejoiped at their escape from this destruction
intended thcn^. Bat though the county was saved by this provi-
dential interference from the rapacity of the king's confederates;,
it was destined to suffer severely from the allies of the barons ;
for Louis, the dauphio of France, in conjunction with the nobles
who were in arms against John, made incursions into this county,
and having ravaged the towns and villages, reduced it into com-^
plete subjection to themselves.
In the rebellion excited by Wat Tyler and Jack Straw against
Richard IL the populace of this county, headed by John Wraw,
and John Ball, two seditions priests, took a conspicuous share.
Assembling in vast numbers, they committed the greatest enor*
mities, putting to death the chief justice of England, the Earl of
Suffolk, and other distinguished persons, till they were routed
with great slaughter, and finally dispersed by the bishop of Nor«
wich.
In the fifteenth year of Henry VII. one Patrick, an Augustine
friar of this county, having a scholar, named Ralph Wilford, the.
son of a shoemaker, instructed him to assume the character of
the earl of Warwick, nephew to Edward IV. and Richard III. at
that time confined in the Tower, whence the impostor pretended to
have escaped by the aid of the friar. This story gained credit
from many people, as soon as it was divulged, which encouraged
the friar to assert its authenticity from the pulpit. The king,
^ing soon informed of these transactions, paused both master avd
scholar
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S8 tfefMt&
mAoUrte be ijppnkfllldAd} Ike litter ihttiuugi^ Akdlke fittf
evndemiied le perpetual imprnomnent.*
It dees not appear that Soffelk had any aliare in Ketf a i^belllen;
in the reign of Edward VL thoagh the leat of that inanrreciioik
ima in the aeighborii^ eonoty of Morfeik.
On EdvanPa deoeaae, the Inbabtteata of fihdiblk, thongh aa ain-
cere Protertanta aa any part of the nation, tealonaly anpported
the title of hia aiater Mary, against the pretensions of Lady Jane
Grey's adherents. When the ipmcess repaired on this oceasion
from Norfolk to Framlingfaam Castle in this eonnty, the nobilitj^
and gentry resorted to her, ofiering their senrices to Yindicate her
r^htful eiaim to the crown, on condition that they might enjo]^
Iheir religion as establiahed in the reign of her predecessor. Mary
assured them thnt no alteration ahonM be made in that point by
lier consent, and still less by her authority; hot no sooner waM
she firmly seated on the throne, than the people of Snfiblk fonnd
themsehres as mnch the Tictims of the misguided system of tfaitf
princess as the rest of their fellow-snbjects. They tentored to
Yemonstrate with her mi^jesty, and hnmbiy entreated her to be
mindfiil of her promise to them, but were answered, contrary to
their expectation, that '* it was not the place of members to go-
Tern the head, nor snbjeds Iheir prince, as they shduM hereafter
know.'' The threat oonTeyed in the conclnding words was fill-
illed in the rigorous perseevtion to which many of the inhabitants
of this county fell a aacrifice.
In 1578, the nobility and gentry of Sofiblk magnificently enter-
tiined Queen Eli2abeth in her progress ; for thongh they had but
short notice a^ her intended risit, they prepared so well fi>r it»
that on her entering tiie coonfy, she was received by two hundred
young gentlemen dad in white v^lret, three hundred of the graver
matt in black, and 1500 attendants on horseback, under the ctm^
duct of the hlgh^berifi^ Sir William Spring. When her majesty,
highly pleased with her entertainment, left the cotaity on her
seturo, she was attended to tiie confines by the Kke eseort
PvriQg the eivH war between Charles L and the parlmment,
this
* V«g«i Britania^j Vol V. p. 17^
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4Viro%&-
Ihia was OM of t)i9#0 ^ofuymthat ««Qdal«d fer IIm niist^^
^1fmQ^9» 9f\^9 lMet» mA veve pkiMl vnier the eommaiid of
the Earl of Manchester, Sir Edward Barker, Sir John Petty,
Mid other loyal gentlemen of this county, endeaT(»«d» it is tme^
tp raift^ a force to aecore it for tiie king; hot Cromwell sorprixed^
and reduoed them to obedience.
f l^ \7SSt, nhen England waa mvidred in a war with France^
1^1^ Hollands mi America, the principal inhabitaata of Sitf>
f^lk, at a valeting held at StewmadEet, agreed to ofea a sob*
i|CiCipM<^ i"^ <M^^ to n^ ^ *°">< aaflkientto bnild a aoronty*
iiWgVt#l|i|l» tabo prawntedta goYcnunent. Notwithatanding
t)ie acri and effivta that were employed to forward thia design, it
appcpured at the condoBion oi the- year that no more than 90,000L
ha4 W^ snlwcribed. A geneial peace following very soon after-
irard^, the phn was dvi^iped^ and conaeqaently the anbacribers^
wer^ iiot callod npoa for the anma for which they had pledged'
themsdvep.
ifoNOiliiUL HiBTORY.-^-P^eTionsly to the Norman conqnest^
a^4 ^ nettdy two centmriea afterwards, the honors of Siiflblk
and Norfolk were united in one person. The firmer neTcr con-
ferred a separate title tUl the 11th Edward III. when, on the
decease of. Thomas Hantagenet de Brotfaerton, withont issne,
BjOBsmr^ son of Robert de U&rd, steward of the royal house*
hold, by Cicdy de Yaloines, waa cheated earl of SuflS>lk, and had
aii anmiijty of 9QL perannum granted him sub lumnne et hon&re
emmtii^ Ha was much employed by his soTereign in important
aftirs of atate till his death, in the 43d year of the same reigi^
when ho left Us honor and possessions to his son
WiixiAM DB Upford^ who waji snatched away by sadden
4eatii> aahia four aona had been before him. Ascending the steps
to tho.hguse.of lords to represent to them what the commons, in*
pariiament. assembled, considered of tho greatest imp<»tanee fop
the weUaie of the realm, he foil down and expired, leaving hia
pOBScsDions to Sir William de Eresby, Roger Lord- Scales, and
Henqr Lord Forrera of Ocoby, tho itsno of hia three sisters.
The*
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9^ aufvou^
The tiOetliBs hecame extiaet in this tumiy, mi by teMfit favr
yean, when king Richard IL in the ninth year of hia leign he*
atowed it on
Michael oe la Pole, whom he had hefere made i^h^ffftWiy
and keeper of the great aeal, aaaigning him at the aaaw tine a
gruit of 1000 maika per annum to he paid oat of hia eschefmr.
Of thia nohleman Walaingham obaerYea, that heing the aon of n
merchant^ and hroaght np in the mercantile line hinmcH he wan
better Teiaed in commercial mattera than in a&in of atate. Hia
&ther waa William de la Pole, mayor of Kingaton-vpon-Hnll, who
had the dignity of a banneret conferred upon him aa part of hia re*
ward fer lending Edward III. large avow of money, witbovt which
he coold not have proaecnted hia deaignaagaanat France. Thefcing
alao promiaed to pay him lOOOL a year on the raaofery of hia
righta in that country. Of hia aon, the earl of Sniblk, Caaiden
ndda, that wanting a aund capable of bearing aoch a flow of proa*
perity, be waa guilty of some miademeanor, lor which teaaon ha
waa forced to ^t tiie court, and died in exile at Faria. Hia
large estate waa coniiacated, aothalaamall portion only dcacanJed
to hia aon and heir.
Michael de la Pole, who, baTing married Catharine, daugh-
ter of Hugh, earl of Staflbrd, had certain manon settled upon him
and hia wife, in the lifetime of hia lather, fer their better aopporl
Thoae he enjoyed, with the addition of 50L per annum granted
upon his petition by the king, and the title of a knight, till ^e
death of Richard I. Soon after the eleration of hia aucceaaor, to
which de la Pole materiaUy contributed, he preaented aatatesMnt
of hb case in a petition to parliament, and with the aaaent of the
peers waa made capable of inheriting all the landa and lordahtpa of
hia ancestors, and allowed to enjoy the title and honor of eari of
Soffi>lk to him and his heirs. He died of a flux in 1416» at tta
aiege of Harflenr in Rrance.
Michael de la Pole, aon and heir of the preoeding, Ml within
a month after his fether's deeeaae, at thegloriona battle of Agin-
court, and finmiahed oar inioiitable bard with the subject of thoae
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{MlMto tkim, in wkioh Oe duke of Exeter, uncle to the kingt
duttiki tbe deatii of his olm brother the dske of York :-«
Snfiblk fint died : and York, all haggled OTcr
Comet to him, where in gore he laj huteep'd*
And tikes lum by the beard, kisses the gaahetf
Sliatbloodilj did yawu open his face.
And oiee alo«d— «* Tairj, dear oonsin Siiflblk I
Mj soal shall keep thine eompao y to heaven i
Tsury, sweet son], for mine, then fly abreast ;
Ah in this glorious and well fooghten fields
We kept together in our chivalry !" —
80 did he torn, and over Sofiblk's neck
He tfaiew hb wounded arm and kissed his lipi ;
And so espoQs'd to death, with blood be sealed
A tcftMBont of noble-ending lovi^
WiLUAM 0& LA PoLB, brother to the gallant earl, sneceed€4
him in his honors and possessions. He was a brave and skilful
officer, and being left in France after the death of Henry V. he
tendered such eminent services in preserving the conquests then^
that he was rewarded with the dignity of marquis, and various
additional privileges and emoluments* In the 2^ of Henry VI.
he was sent over to France, apparently to settle the terms of a
trace, which had then been b^;un, but in reality to procure a
soitable match for the king. The princess selected to be the
partner of his throne, was Margaret of Anjoo, daughter of R^*
nier, titular king of Sicily. The treaty of marriage having been
soon brought to a conclusion by Suffolk, he was sent as the king's
proxy to espouse the princess, and conduct her to England. Ho
enjoyed ever afterwards a high degree of finvor with the queen,
through whose means he was made lord chamberlain, lord high
admiral of England, and raised to the dignity of duke of Suffi>Uu
This nobleman is accused of having been concerned with the car-
dinal of Winchester, in the assassination of the good duke of
Gloucester; and after the death of the cardinal, governed every
thing with uncontrolled sway. Hi« conduct soon excited the jea*
lonqr
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iMW ^n l«»^ kad; libr wln^ kmrtrntam woentemdia tke
«#ll^j|pi«l« elpvreli 4/ Wii^ifeUy » tU» eontj. Hk sob aad heir,
i//lff9 Dr^ t4 Fotje, Juirfi^ Muricd Elinbetk, tialcr !• Ei*
wftf<4 IV. tmi UielMMMfB •T JMfifiia mi 4ake coafimed to his
ar^ htn hein, §U wm mmA is finwr wilk tint aonidi, aad
#IM iMif« fAM^kifU of WdliagCHil caitie hy Hovy YIL Ai
km itaMt f A 1 401 , bM cUmI warn,
ionp, fffhif, in kw tMu^» lifi^tine had been ereOed eari of
iAnf'^h, Micce«d«i bin in bte hooon ofMlbUL He w latde
bM^d n«irt«iiiiit of Irehiid by Richard IIL who, after the death of
hU Mm^ faoMd bim to be inroclaimed heir apparent to tiie erowd
•f Hn^hni, ftm\ng by the daogbtera of fab eider brother Edward.
B«ing MO eminent a branch of the Yoric iamily, it b not surprising
that he should be decidedly hostile to the pretensions of Henry
AmUp of Riohmond ; on whose accession to the crown, he fled to
his stMtnr^ the doehcss of Burgundy, and entered eirly into tiie.
project formed in behalf of the impostor Simnel. Am commander-
llhchlef of the force destined for its accomplishment, he fell, with
4000 of his followers, at the battle of Stoke-npon-Trent, in 1487.
KDMtNt), his next brother, succoMed him ; and being a matt
of an enterprising «nd coungeous ^irit, was employed by the
king In virlous commissions at home and abroad. Being, how-
^veTi so ntirly rrlsted to the crown^ by his mother and brother,
whoso heir ho wM| king Henry VIIL conceived a strong jealonsy
df him» AS a dangwous rital. He therefore ordered him to be
svfursd imd imprisoned In the Tower: till at length, previously
tn his axpeditlon against Prance, ftaring lest the people shonld,
during his absence, itlsaat his victim, and make him king, he
resolved
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StTFTOLK. 93
refiotred to remove this Dobleman ontof his vay. lie was nccord-
ingV beheaded in the Tower, leaving an only daughter, who
emhniced the monastic life : and thus this honor again became
extinct, bat was soon afterwards revived in another &mily, in
the person of
Charles Baa^idok, son of Sir Thomas Brandon, who having
been a firm adherent to Henry, duke of Richmond, was, on his
accession to the throne, made a knight of the garter and mar-
shal of the court of common-pleas. Charles, his son and heir,
was endowed by nature with eminent qualities both of body and
mind ; and for his services in the campaign against France, was
invested by Henry VIII. with the dignity of viscount Lisle and
dnke of Snffolk. This nobleman won the heart of the king's sis-
ter, the princess Mary, who was married to Louis Xll. of France ;
and alter her short-lived uniov with that monarch, became her hus-
band. On the dissolution of the greater monasteries, he obtained
a considerable share of their possessions. In the 36th of Henry
VIII. he was appointed general of the army that was sent into
France, and took Bouli^gne; and dying the year following, was
interred in St George's chapel, at Windsor Castle. By Catha-
rine, daughter of Lord Willoughby de Eresby, he left two sons.
Henry, who succeeded him in his honors and estate, and
Charles, both of them in their minority. These youths being at the
house of the bishop of Lincoln, at Bugden, in Huntingdonshire,
Were seized with the sweating sickness, which was then making
great ravages^ and died on the same day, July 14, 1551, without
heirs.
Hemry Grey, marquis of Dorset, having married Frances,
eldest daughter of Charles Brandon, and the princess Mary, sister
to Henry VIII. was now created dnke of Suffolk, Oct. 11, 1551.
By this union he had three daughters, the eldest of whom, Jane,
being married to Guildford, lord Dudley, fourth son of the duke
of Northumberland, was, through his artifices, appointed by the
will of king Edward VI. his sqccessor, to the prejudice of his sis-
ters Mary and Elizabeth. The former halving 40on .overcome all
Vol. XIV. D opposi*
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9% fflfffOUL
oppowtira, tiie ilMsted LmIj Jane Grej nftredl for tlie smbitMiif
•r her friai^; her infer, her kathuid, aad iMTKlf, king mD
iiwftiil to the UmL Tlie title w aot rerrred for awy yean,
tlD
THdiAS HowAED, MeA mm of Hmmbm, duke of NoHbft,
fcy lus aeeoiMl wHe, Margaret, dieter aad hetreM of Thomaa
Lnri Airiiey, of WaMen, and h>pd higii ddnedlor of Boglaiid,
wao, IB tlie first of JaflMs I. created earl of SaftllL TUsnoUe-
■aa, daring the reign of qneen Elixabeth, had greatly diatin*
gniahcd hnaelf as a naval officer, eifeeially in the
irith the Spanish annadn in 1MB. HealM
a si|nadron destined to attack the Spanish pfarle fleet in
1M$; and was adndnd of the third sqnadroo of the fleet which
sailed against Cafo in 1507. On his rstvn he was created a
harott, hy the title of Lord Howard, of Walden, and afterwards
iofesled with the earldon of SdMk, as related shore. He died
in 1^36. In his fiunily the honors have ever since reouuned, tfie
present peer, John Howard, heing the fifteenth earl of Soffblk.
EcctEBiAwncAL HiSTOET — TV christian religion, which had
gained a ssnll fiioting in the kingdoHi of the Bast- Angles, in the
reignr'of Kedwdd and Erpenwald, was notestahUshed in that
eonntry till Sigebert was invested with the govemniflnt Red-
waid, while viceroy of Kent onder king Ethelberty was converted
to Christianity and baptized ; h«t snoceeding hb fitther Titol in
the kingdom of the East-Angles, he was posnaded hy his wife
to. retnm to his fimner idoktry ; yet that he night not seem
wholly to renounce Christianity, he erected in the same temple an
altar Ibr the service of Christ, and another for sacrifices to idols,
which, as Bede infimns ns, were standing in his time. Thos
christiaiifty was banisiied from his kingdom during his reign.
The qneen, however, who had thns excluded the true rdigion,
was the means of iU estaMbhment in the sequd. Being the
widow of a nobleman, by whom she had a son named Sigebert,
she intmdnced hhn at the oonrt pi Redwald. By Redwald she
had two sons, Seynhere and Erpenwald, who bdng bought np
with
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SUFFOLK. 96
wiih Sigebert^ were so &r supassed by him boCh in penon and
behayior, that Redivald took nndmage at the youth, and banished
him into Vtuaoe, where he eontinned dnring the- remainder of Red-
Waldo's reign, and that of Erpenwald, who succeed^ him, because
Reynhere had been killed in a battle with Ethelired, king of
NcMthnmberland, fought near the river Idle, in Nottinghamshire.
Erpenwald haying been convinced by Edwin, king of Northum-
berland, while residing as an exile at his Other's court, of the
truth of Christianity^ had embraced that religion; and on his
accession to the throne, he openly professed it, hoping that his
subjects would follow his example ; but, contrary to his expecta-
tations, they were so dissatisfied, that a conspiracy was formed
against his life, and he fell by the hand of an assassin named
Richebert, leaving no issue. The East-Angles being now des-
titute of an heir to the throne, and considering none so well qua-
lified to fill it as Sigebert, whom Redwald's groundless jealousy
had driven out of the kingdom, made him an offer of the crown.
This prince, in his exile, had spent his time in study, and been
fully instructed in the feitfa of Christ, which he had professed for
many years prior to this invitation. Having accepted it, he re-
turned to his native country, and resolving to introduce into his
dominions that religion to which he had himself become a convert,
he took with him a Burgundian ecclesiastic, named Felix, a man
eminent fer his piety, with whom he had contncted an intimacy,
to preach the gospel to his subjects.
FeHx, on his arrival in England, was constituted bishop of
East-Anglia, and fixed his seat at Dunwich in this county.* On
his death in 647, he was buried in his church of Dunwich ; but
' his body was afterwards removed to Soham, where he had his seat
for some time, and interred in the monastery there, which was
not long afterwards demolished by the Danes. Capgrave informs
US, that some centuries later, in Canute's reign. Abbot Ethel-
stail^ having with great pains discovered his bones, removed them
to his abbey at Ramsey.
I> 2 Thomas,
• Se« BeoKtki, Vol. XI. Norfolk, p 16.
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9i wmmnjL
nomas, fcis deicMi, BucoeeM Ugi» $aJi mtiblkwed liy
Bregiitui, iikewue called Bom^ace.
Bi$a, or Sato, mm vest ooBMonlei to Ail Me in 609. b
eoDieiyaeiioe ef Ins mfiniiliei» ht dinied Hie piovuee tnle l«e
biiliopricke, the fleet of eoe ef wkkh leBBtiaed at Denwieh; eai
the other mus fixed at North EladnM, in Norfolk. He ma pra-
noitat the conncil of Hertford in 073^ aad died the aaae year.
J^tta, or JEeca, tueoeeded hiai m the aee of Dunwieh* He
governed it ahout two yean, and then with Bedwin, biahep if
North Elmham, embraced the BMoaalac life in the ahbey ef St.
Osyth> in Eaaex.
EascuipkuM, or Astulftu, waa the next hiahap* How long ha
enjoyed the epiacopal dignity doea not appear; bat it ia eo^|e»-
inred to have been not nrach leaa than fifty ytiMa, an no nwntioo
ia found of his aaeoeaaor
Eadrid, or Edrid, till 731, when Bede ooodnded hia hiatory.
He was present at the ooiineil of Cioveaho, held in 767, and anhi^
scribed canons by the name of Hearde^u Episeopmi DmmmB
censis.^ He was succeeded by
Cuthwin, or Guthwm ; after whom
' Albert, or AWrith, obtained this see; and wnafoUowed by
Eglqf, called also Algar, who had far hiaaneeenor
Hardred, or Meardred, whom Malmabnry caila Emdrwd. Of
this prelate. Bishop Godwin aays : *' Thn ia he, perfaapa, wha is
mentioned in the synod called in the year 747, by Cuthbert, areh-
bishop of Canterbury, and sobaeribed it by ^e name of Hardolf :'^
but Whartonf hsTing better compnted the time of the awating of
that synod, judges that Edied, above aientioned, must hare baan
bishop of Dunwichat that time; and hia opinion appsara to be-the
'safest to follow.
Alsinus, or Al/unus, succeeded Hardred ; and after him came
Titefertns, or Ted/rid, also called WUfriik. He waa bishop
of Dnnwich when Oflh, king of Mereia, made Litchfield anareh-
bl
• Spclm. CgndL Angl p« 94t. t Am^^ Satrit, Vol h p^ 404i
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0I7FFOUL 87
Wsboprick, which was about the year 787^ and waa present at the
^Qods of Beaeonfield in 798 ; of Clovesho in 803 ; and of Cell-
euth in 813 *
Wiremundus, or Wermund, was the next bishop: He died
in 870^ about the same time with Humbert^ bishop of North Elm*
ham, whose successor, Wybred, agldn united that see with Dun-
wich» and fixed the episcopal seat at the former place.
ECCLESIASTICAX. AND CIVIL GOVERNMENT. — The ecclesissti-
eal goyemmeiit of this county is vested in the bishop of Norwich,
assisted by two archdeacon#, those of Sudbury and Suffolk. A
few parishes, however, are not subject to his jurisdiction. These
are, Hadleigh, Monks lUeigh and Moulton, which are peculiars
to the archbishop of Canterbury ; and Freckenham, with Isleham,
in Cambridgeshire, is a peculiar to the bishop of Rochester. The
diocesan had but one archdeacon till 1126, when Richard, arch*
deacon of the whole county, being elevated to an episcopal see in
France, Eborar4» or Everard, then bishop of Norwich, divided
Suffolk into two archdeaconries ; making the western part of it,
together with such parishes in Cambridgeshire as belonged to his
diocese, subject to the archdeacon of Sudbury, and the eastern
portion to the archdeacon of Suffolk. The former is subdivided
into eight deaneries : Sudbury, Stow, Thingo, Clare, Fordham,
in Cambridgeshire ; Hartesmexe, Blackbonm, and Thedwestry ;
and the latter into fourteen, which are, Ipswich, Bosmere, Clay-
don, Hoxne, Southelmham, Wangford, Lothingland, Dunwich^
Orford, Loss, Wilford, Carlford, Colneis, andSamford.
' The high'sheriff for the time being is at the head of the civil
goveniment of the county, which, in this respect, is divided into
the Gsldable and Franchises. In the former, the issues and for-
feitures are paid to the king : in the latter to the lords of the
liberties. The geldable hundreds are, Saraford, Bosmere and
Chiydon, Stow, Hartesmere, Hoxne, Blything, Wangford, and
the two half hundreds of Mutford and Lothingland. For these the
D 3 sessions
* Spehn. ConciL Ani^L p. 318, 3^5, 3^S.
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98 SOFFOUL
seMions are held at Beccles and Ipswicb ; that is, aft Becclea, for
Wangford, Blything, Motford, and LothinglaUd ; and at Ipswich,
for the remaiDder. The franchises are three in nmnber.
1. The Franchise or lihoty of St. Ethelred^ formerly belonged
to the prior and convent^ and now to the dean and chapter of Ely,
contains the hundreds of Carlford, Colneis, Wilford, Plomesgate,
Loes, and Thredling, for which the sessions are held at Wood-
hridge. The pri<tf and convent possessed thb liberty in the
time of Edward the Confessor ; and when they were changcid in
1541, into a dean and chapter, it was reputed to be of the yearly
value of 201.
2. The Franchise, or lib^ty of St Edmund, given to the
abbey of Bury by king Edward the Confessor, comprehends the
hundreds of Cosford, Baberg, Risbridge, Laddbrd, Blackboum,
Thedwestry, Thingo, and the half hundred of Ixning; for which
the sessions are held at Bury.
3. The duke of Norfolk's liberty, granted by letters-patent of
king Edward IV. dated 7th December, 1468, of returning writs,
having a coroner, and receiving all fines and amercements within
his manors of Bungay, Kelsale, Cariton, Peasenhall, the three
Stonhams, Dennington, Bnindish, the four llketsais, and Crat-
field.
There -is but one assize for the whole county ; but at every
assize two grand juries are appointed, one for the geldable, and
the other for the liberty of Bury Si. Edmund's. Suffolk and Nor-
folk had formerly but one high-sheriff; but since 1576, a distinct
officer has been nominated for each of these counties.
Suffolk pays twenty parts of the land-tax, and furnishes 960
men for the national militia. It returns sixteen members to the
imperial parliament : two for the county, and two for each of the
towns of Aldborough, Dunwich, Eye, Ipswich, Orford, Sudbury^
and St Edmund's Bury.
HUNDIIED
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SUFFOLK. 39
HUNDRED OF LACKFORR
The hundred of Lackford is divided by the Oiwe fVom the
connty of Camlvidge on the west; by the Uttle Oiise from
Noifeik on the north; and is bounded on the east and south by
the hundreds of BlaGkboura^ Thingo, and Risbridge. The
western half of this district consists ahnost entirely of*mai«h
and moor land, and the western of sand. The surface of the
ifetts from one foot to six, is the common peat of bogs, with
an under-stntum of white clay or marl. It is partly under
water, though subject to a tax for the drainage, which has
fruled ; but in Bunit Fen, the westernmost extremity of the county
bordering on the Ouse, fourteen thousand acres have been com«>
pletely drained, and brought into cultivation. Mr. Young ob-^
serves, that there are few instances of such sudden improvement as
have been made in this tract. Forty years ago five hundred acres
were here let for one guinea a year; but in 1772, an act was ob<i
tained for a separate drainage, and one shilling and six-pence an
acre levied* for the expense of embankments^ mills, and other
requisites. In 1777, the bank broke, and most of the proprietors
were ruined. In 1782, owihg to the success of the maehine de-
nominated the bear, in cleansing the bottoms of rivers, and other
circumstances, various persons began to purchase in this neglect-
ed district The banks were better made, mills were erected;
and the success was very great. Lots and estates were at this
time sold for sums scarcely exceeding their present annual rent^
To these improvements paring and burning have very much con*
tribnted.
MiLDENHALL, IS the principal town in this hundred. It is a
large pleasant, well-built place, constitutes alialf hundred of itself,
and has a weekly market on Fridays, well supplied with fish, wild
fowl, and ail other provisions. Towards the fens, which extend
eastward to Cambridgeshire, are* sevoal large streets, called by
D4 th^
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¥r SCTFOUL*
the inhabitaiiU roua, as West-row, Beck-row« HolyweB-row.
which of themselves are as large as ordinary villages. The sitna«
tion of Mildenhall npoB the river Larke^ whieh is navigable fnr
haiges, has considerably added to the trade and enlargement of
Hie town. According to the enumeratioii of 1801, it contains 906
houses, and 2283 inhabitants.
The Ghareh is a large handsome straetore, with a rich roof
of carved wood worit. It consists of a spacious nave, two side
ailes, a. proportionate chancel, a neat golhic porch, and a tower
120 ISa high. It contains many monnmento for the fcmily of
tiie Norths. To the nivth of it stands the noble mansion of
Sa Thomas Charles Bunbory, Bart one of the representativea
in this county ia parliament It was formerly the residence
of his great uncle. Sir Thomaa Hanmer, who waa speaker of
the house of commons in Queen Anne's reign, and died in 1746«
Contiguous to his house he had a very fine bowling-green ; and
was one of the last gentlemen of any foahioa in this county
who amused themselves with that divemon. To the pn^Mietor
of this mansion belongs also one manor of this town, which
was given by Edward the Confessor to the abbey of Bury, that the
religious might eat wheaten instead of barley bread. After the
dissolution, it was granted in the fourth and fifth of Phil^ aad
Mary, to Thomas Reeve and Christopher Bdlet The an^eul
mansion of the Norths is of the time of Elisabeth, or early in
the reign of James I. It contains many numerous i^iartments^
and a gallery the whole length of the front ; but the rooms i«
general are of small dimensions.
We are informed by Ho)inshed, that on the 17th of May, IWf^
this town suffered severely from fire, which, in two honn, destroy**
ed thirty-seven dwelling houses, besides barns, stables, and other
appurtenances.
Mildenhall has furnished London with two lord-mayors; Henry
Barton, who held that honorable office in 1428 ; and William
Gregory in 1461. It has a considerable yearly fiiir« vduch be-
gins otttliedMi (tf September, and lasts four days.
Bbahdon,
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avxfouu 41-
BRANDOHy % tova iMA fbimerly kid a weekly market, ninr-
diflODHtiiiiied, is agreeably siknaled on the little Ouae, and cen-
taiaa 201 koiuea, and 1148 inbabitantB. The riTer^ which ia
nMfigable torn Lynn to Thetibrd, has a bridge oTer it at thia
]»lafie ; and a mile lower down a feiry for conreying goods to and-
fram the lale of Ely. The town is well bnilt; and its church is a
good stmctore. In the neighbonrhood are some extensive rabbit*,
warrens^ which largely contribute to Ae supply of the London
One of these wamna alone is said to famish forty thou-'
I rabbits in a year.
•At this plane is n manalMloty of gan^^flints^ the refuse of
idttehf thrown together at the end of the .town, forms heaps of
ansh diaensionB, thala stranger cannot forbear wwdering whence
they could hsfe been collected.
This town ga?e name to the iUostrious fondly of the Brandons,
dukes of Sidfolk, and afterwards conferred the title of baron on
Charles Gerard, who, for his seal in the service of Charies I.
waa created by that monarch lord Gerard of Brandon ; and ad*
vnnced by hia eon Charles to the d^;nity of earl of Macclesfield.
On the extinction oi his fomily. Queen Anne, in 1711, created
th» duke of Hamilton n peer of England, by the title of baron
Dntton, and duke of Brandon, which is still enjoyed by his de-
Simon Eyre, who waa lord-mayor of London in 1445, was a
nalive ef Bnmdon. At his own expense he erected Leadenhall
for a granary for the metropolis, with a handsome chapel on the
east aide of the square, over the pordi of which he placed thia
inacription: Desira D<mim extJiamt me—'* The right hand
of the Lord hath exalted me.'' He left mweover dOOO mari^s, a
nvy^ksge sum in those days, for diaritable purposes^ and dying
in 1409, was interred in the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, Lom-
tavd-street
Bi«Bdon haa tiiree annmd foirs, on 14th of February, llth of
June, and llth of November.
DownSAtt, alsocaUed Sandy Jhumkam, a vOkge seated oa
^ the
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42 8U170LX«
the little Ovse/ it reaaikable for an iBnndatioii of Mnd, wUehj
in 1668, threatened to oyerwheim the whole place. The circuB-
■tanoea of this phmomenott, unparalleled perfaapa in England,
are detaQed in a letttf written hy Thomaa Wright, Etq. who was
reaident apon the apot» and a coiwidenble aufoer.hy the eSocU
of thia extraordinary viaitation. He etatea, that he foand some
dii&cnlty in tracing thoae wonderful tanda to their origin, but at
last diacofered it to be at Lakenheath, about five nilea to the
aouth-weat of Downham, where iome large aand-hilb, having
their mahce broken by a tempeatuoua aouth-weat wind, were blown
upon some neighboring ground, which being of the tame nature,
and having sfonitonly a thin coat of graaa, which waa aoon rotted
by the other tand that lay over it, joined the Lakenheath sand,
increased its maaa, and accompanied it in its strange progress.
At its first eruption, the sand is supposed to have covered not
more than eight or ten acrea : but before it had proceeded four
iniles, it had increased to. such a degree, as to cover above a thou-*
sand. AU the oppoaition that it experienced between Lskenheath
and Dowhham, was from one farm-house, which the owner en-
deavored to secure by building bulwarks against it ; but perceiving
that this would not answer his purpose, he changed hia plan, and
instead of attempting to prevent its advance, he allowed it a free
passage, and thus got rid of it in the space of four or five years.
When this sand-flood reached Downham, it continued tea or
twelve years in the skirts of the village, without doing any consi*
derable damage, owing, as Mr, Wright imaginea, to the circnm*
stance of its current being then down hill, and therefore sheltered
from those winds which gave it motion. Having once passed the
valley, it went above a mile up hill in two n^>nths; and in the
same year overran more than two hundred aeres of v«ry good oom«
land. On entering the body of the village, it buried and destroyed
several houses , and the inhabitants of the others preserved them
at a greater expense than they were wortL With great exertions
Mr. Wright gave some check to the progress of the flood, though
for four or five years his success was doubtfuL It had gained
possession
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strFFoUL 49
lofall-tteaTeBves, so that there nw no otter acoefst to
ills home hut OTer two iralb eight or 'nine feet.in height^ and a
«mall groTe in front of it was encompassed, and almost honed in
-saihd : nay, at one time it had filled his yard, and was Mown np
almost to the eaves of his ont^honses. At the other end it had
broken down his garden- wall, and ohstmeted all passage that way.
For lour or iive years Mr. Wright stopped it as well as he could
with fnrze^hedges set upon one another, as fut as they were le-
Telied by the sand. By tlus experiment he nised banks near
twenty ym:ds high, and hronght the sand into the compass of
eight or ten acfes; then by laying npon it some hundred loads of
earth and dung in one year, he reduced it again to firm land : on
which he cleared all hia waUs ; and with the assistance of his
neighbors carting away fifteen hundred loads in one month, he
•cut a passage to his house through the main body of the sand*
The little Ouse, on which Downham is sealed, was for the space
of three miles so choaked, that ayesselwith two loads weight,.
Ibund as much difficulty to pass as it had done before with
ten ; and had not this rirer interposed and checked the pro-
gress of the inundation into Norfolk, great part of that county
ted probably been ruined. According to the proportion of the
in<7ease of the sand in the five miles oy^ which it travelled,
which was from ten acres to 1500 or 3000, it would hate been
swdled to a quantity truly prodigious, in a progress over ton
miles more of the like soil. The cause of this flood Mr. Wright
ascribed to the violence of the sonth-west wind passing over the '
level of the fens without any check, and to the sandiness of the
soil ; the levity of which, as he believed, gave occasion to the
story of actions formerly brought in Norfolk, for ground blown out
of the possession of the owners : but he observes, that in this re-
spect the county of Sufiblk was more friendly, as he had possessed
It great quantity of this wandering land without interruption.*
Elvedok,
•Phil. Train. No. XVII.
Jh» ftUtboTs of Mtgna Britannia, (Vol. V. p. «19) and of several snbse-
queat
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4i •vrroM^
Evmton, a omII vilfaig^ wm kmedj of mnm aole, lor ttw
oottion of certain joBiieeo of tlie poaee, «1n>^ whoa Um kiag'f
«DflimiMionen appointed to apprelMad» try aadpoaidi tiM riotooa
iahabitants of Bury in ld37, for tke oatngoooonwitted by them
against the abbot and conTeat of tbaitown, ooly iadiotad tbem
ioft atrnpana, boldly prooeeded agamt tbenn as Moaa, oa ^riiidi
tbey ivere brought to trial, aad aiaeteen ■uiarad death.
EWedoB gaTO the title of nacoant to adnural KeppeL To the
right of the Tillage in £A»€daa-Aii/(, the acat of the eari of Albe-
marle, whoae attention to bodable and aaefiil pnmita eatitlca
him to not leaa reapeet than hia rank* This nobleman has here
taken into hia own haada a ftna of 4000 acrea ; " he ptomiaea/'
m Mr. Yoaag obaervea, " la be avery acti?e aad experimental
ftrmer : and nill, by iaqiroving and plantiag* change the froe of the
deaertwhidi annouada hiu/'* He baa btrodaoed the ayaiem qf
driU^haabandry on a large acale apoa hia frrm, coaaiatiag diieHy
of a blowing nnd: and by a trial of a floek of 900 Norfolk aheey,
againat the aaaM aamber of Sovth Downs, baa eatahliahed ti^
decided anperiority of the latter.
The amnor of EaEavBLL waa held of the king m capUe, aa of
hia honor of Boulogne, by Jtalph of Roaoealre, and hia deacend-
anU; and in the first of Edward II. by Robert de Todenbaai^ aad
Eve hia wife. Beaidea the parochial church* there waa at the
aerth end of the pariah a ehi4>el dedicated to St lAwrenoe ; and ia
oneof theae waa a chaaatry of the yearly rahe of 9L 4a. 6d.
ExNiif o, or IxNiNG, ia a village about a mile from Newmar*
ket, in the oeatre of a email portaoa of Sniblk, joined only by the
high road to the reat of the cooaty, and otherwiae aarroanded by
Cambridgeahtre, to which^ in the reign of Edward I. it gave the
^aeot works, crroneoatly usert, on the aotliority of Holiofthcd, that in Octo-
ber i$6a, twentjr-flerea lUhei of prodigioot slse, the smallett measuring twentj
feet in length, were uken near the bridge of this Tillage. The Downhaa
spoken of by Hulinsbed| u Downham-market^ eleven aiiles from Lyna, ia
Norfolk.
* Agricnltare of Suffolk, p. 403.
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tuivou. 45
MwefaluiflnuiaraA. Kkby, in bu StaMk Ti»TeUer> Miyv.
Ikit this pfaMMi. 'witii Neai9iket» is leckMied ift the hundnd of
Stow ;«4wi the geMralmelhod which makes this dolaehed di»-
liiol part of the hundred of Lackford it here adopted*
This viUageispkaBBiitly situated ia a soisU vale, witiia nyalef
tanning thiwvgh the middt of it» and well shaded with fine peplsia^
ffodaeing an agretaWe eontrast to the aonoUmy of the sonoandr
ing eanntiy* -whiehin genoral presents one «nilomi» naked pkia.
The chnreh is a good and spaoiaas building, witha lofty fpaa»
tower, -whioh eommandsa very eacteosife piespeet, and is seen aft
'wgrswkdfistanoe. IntiMehanoel, veiy nesrtheeonHnnniontahle,
iaasfnsreallartonheioaetothe waUL Itia ofaeoarsesortof
gfeyvnihlei sad was formerly adorned with bvssses, which have
heen torn away. Neither tradition nor any memorial has pr^^
nerved the name of the pe»on for whom it was erected. In the
window oyer the ahar remain afew panes of painted plass; some
of them with mvtilsted figores. Ooe of these without head, has a
foMen wand, which profaaUy formed part of a crosier« A largo
qnadiangular hridL mansion heve, was foimeily the seat of the
fihepherds, irha possessed a good estate in this ooonty, hot waa
aald hy the late lady Irwin, the heiroisof that fomily. Oneaide
of the town of NewmariEst is situated ia tiie paiish of Eiming, as
Is also part of tiie heath so celehrated iniheannab ofraetng*
Exning waa formerly of greater note than it is at presoift. E
waa the hifth-plaoe of fitheldred, daughter of king Anna, whom
tiie pope canonized for a virgin, thou^ she was married to two
hnshanda. Here also Ralph Waher, esrl of the EaaUAngka, plan-
ned his conspirsey against William the Coaqnsrsr, with Roger d^ .
Britolio, esrlof Herefotd, Wahheof, earl of Northumberland, and
some other persons of high rank. Their design to kill William,
or to drive him out of the realm, was^ howofer, soon quashed,
partly by the desertion of earl Waltheof, and some of the diief
oonfederates, and partly by the vigilance of the king's friends,
this
* SoMoXk TrsTslicr, second Edit p. IST.
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46 8VVFOU.
the Biih<^ of VfonMer and Bayenx. Ralph, finding hit aitmi^
tton hopeless^ fled fiist'into France, and then to DoimariL, leaT«
ing his po88eMaona> and those of his adherents, to the mercy of
their adTersaries.
IcKUNGHABf, foar uiles eastward of Mildenhall, on the north
of the Laik, has two parishes, and two parish churches, St»
James and AU Saints. In the latter, within the rails of the con*
mnnion taUe and about tiie chancel, is a considerable qoaatity of
Roman bricks, or 'tiles, which were boim time since ploughed jaf
in a neighboring AM, and placed here for their preservatioii.
They are of difierent shapes, slightly traced with the figures of
animals, flowers^ human fitces, &c ; some few of them are Titri-
fied. This place is supposed by some to have been the an*
dent Roman station, CoM^refontam, or, according to Honley;
CombarHum Here, at any rate, says the author of a Tour
through England, ascribed to the pen of Samuel Richardson,
are vestiges of a settlement, which seems to have extended half
a mile in length, at asmall distance from the river. On the west
side of the ruins is a square encampment, which appears to have
contained about twenty-five acres, and is now called Kentfieldi,
said to be a corruption of Campfield. The vallum is visible all
round it, except where the moorish ground has brought it to decay.
Coins and fibulc have been found here, eapeeiaUy in a pion|^ed
field half a mile north-west of the town, and also in the moors,
when dug for the purpose of being fenced and drained. Many
years since an ancient leaden cistern, oontaing sixteen gaUens,
and ornamented as with hoops, was likewise disoovsred by a
ploughman, who struck his share against tiia edge of it. Wen^
ward of the camp, upon Warren-hill, are three faoge banrowi,
each encompassed by a ditch.
One of these parishes gave birth to John Michell, lord-mayor
of London, 3d Henry VI.
Newmarket, the most considerable part of which is situate
9 ed
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SlTFFOLlt. 47
^J.in Suflfolk^ Itts already been described in tietting of Cam*
hridgesbire, to which the reader is here referred.*
TheTford, is in a similar predicament with the preceding
phoe. The whole, or at least by &r the greater part of this once
celebrated town, seems to hare been originally on the Snffi»lk side
of the Little Ouse, where in the reign of Edward III. were situated
thirteen ont of the twenty parishes which it then comprehended.
There is still one parish, St Mary^s, with abont thirty honses ih
Snfiblk, but in regard to ecclesiastical matters, nnder the jmisdic-
tion of the archdeacon of Norwich.f
HUNDRED OF THINGO.
This district is bounded on the east by the Hundred of Thed-
westry ; on the south by Baberg and Risbridge; on the west by
Risbridge and Lackford ; and on the north by Lackford and Black-
bourn.
In this hundred is situated the metropolis of the western diri-
sion of the county,
BURY 8T. EDMUND'S.
This town stands on the west side of the met Bourne^ or
Lark. It has a channingly enclosed country on the south and
south- west> and on the north and north-west champaign fields ex*
tending into Noilblk; while on the east the country is partly
4^n and partly enclosed. Bury is so pleasantly situated, con^
mands such extensive Tiews, a<id the air is so salubrious, tha^
it has been denominated the M ontpellier of England. The want
* SeeBeautifs, Vol. IL p. 159.
t For • deicription of TlMtford, sec BeaatiM, Vol. XL Norfolk, p. e«l
— J.50.
. Of
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of woiid, however, is justly deemed a greal detractioii from tke
beaaty of the cottDtry immediately suirounding the town; and
the air here, though acknowledged to be entremely wholes^ma
for persons of robust constitationsy is considered too jihazp for
those who eiyoy bat adelicate state of health, and especiaUy in^
dif idoals afflicted with palmonary complaints.
Being situated on a rising gremnd and sandy soil^ the streets of
this place are always extremely clean. Most of them are pated
with pebbles, one only. Abbey-gate street, having a foot-way qq
each side of flag-stones ; but in Idll an act of parliament waa.ol^
tained, for the purpose of extending to the whole town the adTsn-
tages of paving, lighting, and watching. Including the suburbs,
it is about a mile and a quarts broad, from east to west; and
about one and an half in length, from south to north. It is di-
vided into two parishes, and according to the enumeration of
1811, it contained 7938 inhabitants.
Bm^ is governed by a recorder and twelve capital bnigessei^
one of whom is annually chosen alderman, and acts as chief ma-
gistrate. Six others are assistant justices, and one holds the of-
fice of coroner. The remainder of the body corporate cottsiBts
of twenty-four common-council men, and these thirty-six persons
only, return two members as representatives for the town in the
parliament of the United Kingdom.
Bury dates back its origin to a very remote period ; but the
most inteDigent aiid inquintive antiquaries diiflfer much in their
opinions respecting the precise time in which the site of tU*
town began to be inhabited. Some writers, among whom are
Camden,* .Batteley, and Gale have siqpposed that it was the Ro»,
man station, denomittatfl;d VUla FauHmn, but the want of cir*>
cnmstances to coiroboraie thi» ccnjectnre, has led others, appa^
rently with great justice, to questimi its probaMity.f It seems,
however,
* Camdva was at fint mcKiMd to fix the Yilla Fanttiai, at Cbeiterford .id
Eaoex, but afterwards detemikied in favor of thh place.
f Salmon fnpposed Maiden^ in Enes, to be this ViUa Fauttial; Hortley
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SUFfOLX. 49
koweter^ to be goi^iiDy tgreed» tint prerioady to Ha reoeivui^
ittpiteseiit appellation, this place was called by the Saxons Bco-
deric^S'-warth, tbat is to say, the seat, maosion, w residence of
Beoderic ;* but how long it boie that name, is another point on
which writers are at Yariance.
Sigbriht, or Sigbert, fifth monarch of the East Angles, having
embraced the Christian fiuth in France, whith^ he had been ba-
nished by his half brother and predecessor Eipenwald, founded
here about the year 638, a Christian' church and monastery, which
IS we are informed by Dngdale was denominated, the monastery of
St Mary at Beodericworth.
We are told by Abbo, a learned monk of the monastery of
Flenry, in Firance,t that the town obtained this i^ppellation from
having been the property of a distingnished person named Beo-
deric, who at his death bequeathed it to king Edmund, the mar-
tyr. This aceount. is confirmed by documents stiU preserved in
thearchiTCB of Buy.
Edmnnd, firom whom this place derives its present name and
fixed it St Donmow, and Reyuoidi places it at Woolpit. The latter mentioni
in support of his opmioo, the namber of Roman coins which ate frequently
laand at that place; whereas no soch memonab have CTer-been discorered at
Bury,
• A primed paper entitled, KUtt etmeemhig fiary St, ^dmwnd't m m«i. Sufi
fOt, extrmcUd iiiof tkeBi^ HraavraMe tkt Emrl af OMford^t Likrmry, b^
Mr, WmtUif, hegins thas : *' In rtrj ancient tiroes one Beodric was owner
•f the ground, where the ahbej and toim of Bory St. fidmand's was after*
wards bailt ; from which the Beoderic, village (then tmj smaM) was called
Beodrices>worde, i. e. Beodrid Villa : and his demesne lands» were the
fields adjacent to the town of Bory, which appertained alterward to the of-
fice (as I reoMmber) of the Celerar. Upon the foundation of the aMmastery
1>y K. Cnat* the old uaoMcaaM to he soon oat of use, and the place to be
called Bargh/'
t He was inrited to England by Oswald, archbishop of Yoiic, who placed
Urn in the SMQasteiy «( Ramsey. Retoming to his native ooantry, he was
enathrongh the body with a lance, while endesfouring to snppren a violent
dispuMin the conit of a Booaslery in the sooth of Fitaoce.
Vol XIY. E its
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no ftiiffoiJi.
lt» eiMfify, ^odeeeded hik nncle Oft, Uaf «f the EM Ai^|h»,
In 656. Of the nat hittory of tiiis monuoh verj littte indeed is
luown. The ev«»t8 ef his life, «s reeorded by the monkish
■writers, aie either a tissue of fiotious, or at least so distorted by
lheni> that it is impoBsible to distragoish troth ftom felsdiood.
Abho FKffiffdeneis vas his first biographer. Coming about 98ft
nn a visit to St. Danstan, archbishop of Canterbury, he ander«
took to inrite the life of the saint from the nsnatiYe given frofii
niemory by that prelate, who had heard the circumstanoe related
toking AtheUtan by a very oM man, that had been one of Ed-
mund's officers.* The particulars of Edmund's life, pre?ioi^
to his elevation to the throne, are reeorded by Galfridos de Fonti-
•'bDS,t and the relations of tiioe writers fbrm the groilndowoik of
tfab histories of all sneeeeding Uographers.
Aeoording to these then, Edmnnd was the son of AlkmMid, a
ttexon prince, disttnguished for vabr, wisdom, andj^iety. Vo*
ing upon a pilgrimage at Rome, while petformmghis devotions^
the Sim was observed to shine with uncommon brilliance on his
breast. This was hailed as a happy omen by a prophetess; she
promised Alkmund a eon, whose tune shoatd extend over the whde
world. The prinoe returned home, and the same yesr his queen
Siware made him a joyM fether. In Nuremberg, his capital, Ed-
mund is said to have been bom in the year 841 . t Offii at this time
swayed
^lliit little work, which b tud in an cxtnet qsoted in the C$Ueei. Buriemt.
to have been written in the 7th jear of Sthelred, it entitled, ViU etFmtih
Sett Edwawdi ptr AbboMm FhrUeetuem Mmaehvw%, It b preierved among
the MSS. in the Cotton librmry, and it a very creditable tpecisMn of the li-
terature of the age.
t In a little work De FuetUiaSmeH EdrnmiSi, rappoted to haTO been writ-
ten aboot 1150. The public library at Cambridge posseues a MS, copy of
thii perCormanoe.
I Some writen, both ancient and modem, have ejiptemed their doobti te-
fpecting thii aeconnt of Sdmond't parentage. Abbo merely obienrei that
hs sprang from rayal aacetton^ and a nohla fiunily of aacieot Saionf.
Ifeitbet
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SUFFOXJb 1^1
twajed the teeptre «f .II19 East Aiigiei> aad luvdng no ckydra^
he resolyed to make a pilgrimage to Jeruaaleiii^ there to anppli-
cato the blesaing of an heir. Oa his way to the Holy Land ho
fiaited hia kiasman AUunuad^ and waa captivated by the engafing
mBXOieantg and amiable qnalities of the youthful Edmand. On hia
departure^ ho preaented to the prince a valuable ring^ as a pledge
of attachment and regard. Ofia, having perlbrmed at Jerusalem
the rdigioua exercises which were the object of his pilgrimagOj
waa taken ill on his return, and feeling his dissolution approaelk-
ing, he eonvAed hia conocil, to whom be eameetly recommended
hia young relation as his successor. A(|er the celebration of the
fttncnl rites, Offit's nohlea hastened to Saxony, and in oomplianoe
with the royal mandate, acqnainted Edmund with the dying wiahes
of their master. Alkmund, with the iqpprobation of his assenu-
bled bishops and nobles, gave his concurrence to this arrange*
men^ and Edmund, taking leave of his parents, amidst their tears
and blessings set sail for his new dominions. No sooner did he
reschthe shore, than he threw himself on his knees to thank hea-
Ten for past mercies, and to implore its future protection. Five
springs of fresh water immediately burst from the dry uid sandy
soil ; on which spot he afterwards built, in commemoration of this
event, the town of Hunstanton.
Edmund did not assume the regal dignity immediately on his
arrival^ but i^nt the following year in studious retirement at Attle-
borough. " It might now be expected,'' observes tbe historian of
Bury,* ** that under such circumstances, his counsellors should
direct his young mind to anticipate the cares of royalty ; to exa*
mine the laws of the state he was about to govern ; and to make
hinmelf adjoainted with tbe customs, manners, and interests of
the people whose happiness was shortly to be intrusted to him.'*
Neither b tbe itory concemmg Offa mentioned by Abbo, though both
ib«w dfcomitancei are ciplicitly ttated, or alludtd to by »U monoitio
writers.
• Yates' Hitt of Bury, p. 29.
E2 The
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a iUFFOLK.
The geninB of the nge, however^ gave a very difierent tnrfl to
Edmund's stndieM: he employed the period of his seclusioti in
committing the psalter to memory.* From this retirement he wtm
drawn, to be invested frith the insignia of sovereignty, and was
erowned at Bary.f by Humbert, bishop of Hnlm, on the 2dth
December 855, having then completed the 15th year of his age.
Edmund's biographers, having how seated him on tlie throne,
proceed to record his virtues as a sovereign in a strain of the most
pompous panegyric. No &cts, however, are adduced to justiff
these lavish encomiums. The truth seems to be, that Edmund's
years, and his natural disposition were such, as to enable tha
monks and ecclesiastics (from which class of persons he derived all
his posthumous celebrity) to govern him with ease. Pi^ty, can-
dor, gentleness, and humility, formed the disttnguishing features
of his character, and the possession of these insured to him the
reputation of all other good qualities. However they might have
befitted a cowl, they were certainly not calculated to support the
dignity of a crown, in the disastrous times in which Edmund
lived.
The commencement of his misfortunes, is enveloped in the
aame obscurity as the other events of his life. Most of our an-
* Tbe book wed on this occasion, was said to have been preserved at the
abbej at Bury with religtoos Teneratton. A very cnrioas ancient psalter*
still to be seen in tbe library of St. Jameses cbnrch, is thoaght bj some an-
tiquaries to be this very book. YaUt* Hitt, p. 50.
t From tbe uncert ain orthography of ancient writers, different places
haire been mentioned as the scene of this ceremony, Camden is of opinion
that it was performed at Borne, in Lincolnshire : Matthew of Westminster
says *« at the royal town called Bares," and Galfridus de Footibus expressly .
tells us, that " Edmund was consecrated and anointed king at Barnm, a royal
town» the boundary of Essex and Suffolk, situated upon the Sture.*' This
evidently denotes the village of Bares ; but as nothing, either in history. Or
its present appearance, can justify this spot in claiming the distinction of a
royal town, we are inclined to follow those authorities which fix the solem*
nity of Edmund's coronation at Bury, a place which previously held an emi-
nent rank in the kingdom.
. f cient
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SUFFOLK. Ci3
•iot aiuttlutB Slid general historians ascribe the invasion of the
Duies» irho about this period began to make descents on the coasts
of this island, and who at length depmed Bdninnd of his king-*
dam mad his life, to the following cirenmstanoea.
liodbrog, king of Denmark, was very ibnd of hawking ; and
•ae day, while enjoying that sport, his fiivonrite bird happened
to ftll into the sea. The monarch, anxious to save the hawk,
leaped into the first boat that presented itself, and put off to his
aaswtaiiee. A saddai storm arose^ and carried him, after encoun«*
lering imDunent dangws, np the mouth of the Yare, as far as
ReedhHi in Norfolk. The inhabitants of the country, having
dsMQiTeved the stranger, conducted him to Edmund, who then
kflfi Ua eomt at Caistor, only ten miles distant The king re^
eemd hin with great kindness and respect, entertained him in a
Maimer snitaUe to hm rank, and directed Bern, his own fidconer,
to aeoempany his guest, whenever he chose to take his fiLvourite
divenion« The skill and soecess of the royal visitor in hawking,
eidted Edmund's admiration, and inflamed Bern with such jea*
loosy, that one day, when they were sporting together in the
woods, he seized the opportunity, murdered him and buried the
body. Lodinrog^B absence for three days occasioned considerable
alani« His favorite greyhound was observed to come home for
food, &wning upon the king and his courtiers whenever he was
compelled to visit them, and to retire as soon as he had satisfied
kis wants. On the fourth day he was followed by some of them,
whom he conducted to the murdered body of his master. Edmnnd
iastitttted an inquiry into the affair, when, frpm the ferocity of
the dog to Bern, and other circumstances, the murderer was dis-
covered, and condemned by the king to be turned adrift albiie,
writhont ofurs or sails, in the same boat which brought Lodbrog to
East Anglia, This boat was wafted in safety to the Danish
coast, where it was known to be the same in which Lodbrog left
the eountry. Bern was seized, carried to Inguar and Hubba, the
aons of the king, and questioned by them concerning their father.
Th^ TiUain replied, that Lodbrog had been cast upon the shore of
' £3 England,
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U •Of»OU«
Eaglancl, and there pot to death by EdBimd't eomttaiid. Is-i
flamed ifith rage, the aom reaolyed on revenge, and. apeedil|r
raised an army of 20,000 men to invade his domimoni.*
This armament, whieh is atdd to have sailed friwi Denmark in
866, is reported by some historians to have been driTenby con-
tary winds to Berwick-upon-Tweed. After committing the gireai-
est cruellies in this part of the coontry, the Danes again embatfeed,
but aeem each socceeding apring to have renewed their desoents.
In 869 these nrthless barbarians proceeded southward from Yoik«
aUre, in a torrent which destroyed every Tent^ of civillatflMm. lo
670 they appear to haTe reached East Anglia» where Inguar gain*
od possession of Thetferd, king Edmund's capitaL The iattar
collected his forces and marched to oppose the invadera. The hoa*
tile armies met near Thetford, and afto* an engagement maintMned
for a whole day, with the most detemdned ooniage and gieii
slanghter on both sides, victory remained undecided. The fiom
king, to use the language of the monkish writers, was so «&•
tremdy alieeted by the death of so many martyrs, who had dwd
their bkod in defence of the Christian fiiith, and the miseraUe
«nd of so many unconverted infidels, that he retired in the night
to Eglesdene. Hither he was soon IbUowed by an embassy from
Inguar, who was aoon aAier the battle joined by hisbrother Hubba^
with ten thonsaiid finesh troops. The Danish chieftain prbpoifted^
that he adiould become his vassal, and divide with htm his %tem»
aures and dominions. Bishop Hombeit earnestly recommended
his compliance with this imperious command; but Edmiind re-
turned lor answer, that he would never submit to a pagan. At
the same time, out of tenderness for his subjects he resolved to
make no farther resistance, and accordingly surrendered without
a struggle to the superior force seat against him by Inguar and
* Turner, in hit HItfofy ff tfta AmghSaxotu, (Vol. II. p. 107.) enters mto
»n examiastioa of this story respecting Lodbrog, and the result of his re-
searches ettftbli&hes the fictitious character of this narrative of the cause of
the Danisl) invasion.
Bubba.
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BiiMm 9tW#9mC^!>>^?<i^^ t^i^ temi of the c<»9«emib
li# W«l hotnd t^& tn;c^ hiabody mm pi6m4 will) urown, and hia.
li^ad cii4 «fl^ aiid tkamn oonten^tnoudy ibIo the tkidLest part of
a smghbooriiig wood. Hia faithfo^friepd, bUbop Humbert^ avit
§Bm^ at tiie sane time witii bia royal nuiater.
TheDaBfl^ baKing entirely laid waate this part of the ooantry,
M^pmeaM ia^Mat of acenea l^^ter calcnhled to. gratify tbeii:
lfv» of plnndfoc. Be^aaedfinNllth^ teiror their preaenceiiiapiredL
thu EfMt Mli^ rWW^by affectjon to their kle apTerei^
ap^ipblad to pory the laat d^iiaea to hia.ramaiiia. The body iraa
Boaft jjppaiwtaA §ad oa|Mr^ed to Hoaue^ bat the head eould no
iriMfebiȣ)fiff4. Hia fci^bfid anbjecta thep diyided themselvea intp
avMdlf^rtipa^ ^expippn^tbea^acAntwpo^ Uereaooie of then^
buiBg aepamted from their oonyanioiia^ cried out^ " Where are
yM?" The hea^ hmediaUly r^ed " Here! here! h«e*'f
ipdif W are toid by Lydgate,
Weycr ceaied of al that longe day»
So for to crye tyt they kam when he laje.
If their aatpnifthment waa excited by this obliging infbrma-
tiion ao auracaloiudy conveyed^ it waa not likely to be abated by
vhal loUowed. On coming to the spot whence the voice pro*
caaded, they fcand a volf, holding the head between hia fore-feet
The animal politely delivered up hia charge^ which, the moment
it came in contact with the body^ returned ao exactly to its former
place, that the jnnctnre waa not visible except when closely exa-
nuned. The wolf remained a harmleas spectator of the scene, and
la w» are iaiormed by all the ancient historians, alter gravely at*
toiding the faaeral at Hoxne, peaceably retired to hia native
wooda. Thia happened about forty days after the death of the
saint.
Theae legendary tales might perhaps be deemed too frivolous for
wrtioe; bat, being intimately connected with the prosperity of
Bvy» aad indaediaaeparably interwoven with the history of that
£ 4 place.
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M nvrPOVL
fitxe, they could not with propriety be omitted in thie aeeoiiiit
'Hie arms of the town still commemorate the bmte protector of the
royal martyr's head, which also famished ancient artists with a fii-
▼brite subject for the exercise of their talents.*
For thirty-three years the body of tiie king, boried in the eaith^
lay neglected in the obscure chapel of Hoxne. At length tli«
interference of ecclesiastics, who in those days irexe ttapMe of
guiding the public feeling as they pleased, and perhaps also that
reverence which unfortunate royalty seldom faila to inspire, oeca-
sioned the circulation of reports, that various miracles had beeA
performed at Edmund's grave. All ranks now concurred to les*
tify their respect for his memory ; a large church wais constnMled
of wood at BeodHcsworth, and thither the body, found p^ect aiid
uncorrupted, and with the head re-united to it, was removed in
903.t Some ecclesiastics immediately devoted themselves to the
mdnasiie
* Several examples of this kind are given in the ei^ravingi to Yates* His-
tory. Two fine specimens of painted glass, conunemorating this monarch,
are in possession of Sir Thomas Gery Collam, Bart, of Bory. One exhibits a
a bust of him crowned, and inscribed in black letter. Set, Ed. The other re-
presents the wolf holding the head between his paws. Underneath are also
in black letter the words, Heer, heer, heer, and abore is this inscriptim^ !» $»>
bUem fidclium. These eridently ancient performances are in fine preserva-
tion : the colon are uncommonly brilliant, and the designs remarkable for
deaniets and precision*
t The incorruption of the body was attested by a female devotee named
Oswina, who declared, that she had long lived in seclusion near the town ;
that for several preceding years she had annually, cut the hair and pared the
nails of the saint, and had preserved these sacred relics with religious vene-
ration. A list of six other witnesses of this fact is given In Ireland's Collec-
tanea, (Vol. I. p. tt9.)^Among these, was Leoftanns, a nobleman, who arro-
gantly ordering the tomb to be opened, that he might have ocular deroonstn-
tion, his re4oest was complied with ; and we are told, that " he saw the body
•f ' the saint uncorrupted, but being immediately seised by a demon, he mi*
•erably expired." That curiosity which was so severely punished in a layman,
appears however to have been no crime in an ecclesiastic ; for we are in-
Ibrmed that Iheodred, bishop of the diocese, " having performed a devo-
tional
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StFfOUL At
I lUe midtir die proftectioB of tiie royal saint aiad martyr;
their muaber increased!, and abeat 9S5, tliey irere ineorporated
into a college of prieaU, either by king Athelatan^ or fay Beode-
rie, cbief lord of the town. The inhabitanta, perceiving the ad*
Tnntagea likely to accme to themaelvea from the increaaing cele«
lirity 4!^ St Edmnnd's relics, chose him for their titular sidnt, and
began to call the place after his name. The monks neglected no
oppoiinnity of blaaoning the extraordinBry miiacles perfermed by
the agency of tbe sacred body, tiie fione of which procoiod the
eonTent nmnerooa obhtiOBa and beneliMtions.
King AtiialBlaa appeara to hare been the fiM rsyal beneftctor;
Besides other donations, he presented to the chnrch of St. Ed*
muid, a copy oC the ETangeBsta, a gift of sodi valne in those
days, that the donor ojflfered it npon the altar |>fornR0dioinilsiio
SIMS, larthebeneitofhiasonL Bat more. snbstsntialftiTors were
bestowed upon this eslaUishment by Edmnnd, son of Edward liw
BMer, who may indeed be considered as hsTing laid the fonnda^
lioB of ita lotore wealth and splendor. He gsTO the monks a
jarisdiction over die whole town, and one mile ronnd it, confiiming
thisaadotber privileges by a royal grant or charter in d4K^. Thia
exaofle was imitated by sncceeding sovereigns, and other persona
of distittetion, durongh whose liberality many csmidapable manoia
In the netghborbood of Bury were soon addedto the possessions
of the monastery.
Aboat tbia time commenced the disputes between the secnlars or
estabUshed clergy of the country, and the monks or regnlsrs.
Tbe latter, by tbe appearance of superior sanctity, contrived to
rendsr themselves highly popular; and 1^ their artificea at length
tiooil fait for three days, apened tbe coi&o, foand tbe body perfect, washed
i^ arrayed it with new Testments. and replaced it in its reteptacle." Ic was'
by the command of this prelate that some thieres, taken in tbe attempt te
plnder the chntch of St Edmund, were execnted. The ii|]ah», it was
grran oat, were ap^irehended by Ibe aaairtsnoe of the taint, who miraculeiMly
deprived them of die power of moring from the ladders, and tbe parta of ^e
bniJdmg where they happened to bci, till they were diacoTcred and secured^
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HtfommM the tmm ^ tbeir most valniUfr cstrtjhtoftntiy
*ne inecMffiog &m# wd wealth of tbe cosveat «f St Edmund
\imA not encsped 4b» notice of the nooks, who gainoA ot^ thi^
biskop of the diooeaei aad in 999 procw^d ^« q»pqiivtiiie|it ^f
AilwiD, oae of their wiunber, to be the s^uerdi^ ^ the body of
the 8iial» wHh wbioh the secular prieets ^ere pronoiiJi^ iom
tr^ihy to be eslrueted, ^ on ee^oont of their hi^Xt^p^ imd irr9?
gntarity/'
Swi^n* king of Denmark^ bi^vii»s inTi^^ E«glp^4 wk l4i4
iraste the whole of flotft^Ajiglie* burnt fl;i4 ^imwieittd Qury |j^
IOIO2 bet pp^aeoely to this, Ai}vio, fBoiM lest hN> sirred charge
should sefir vmXV %nd iliW^ frop the liMi^es^ conv^yod it tf
IjmAoOi Bore it -yeviMied three jears, 4mu% whif h wamberleaf
«hRleleswepefer{(ifMdbyit»opi9|»t^ Th#hW^«9fLonAwK>
•beer? higihe rich offierii^ thpfl woKe psesept^ ^ the ehcine .of
the eaiiit, is said to Ii«?e^49ffieeive4» veheM^i 4{»iire.V> teJto tbf
castod^ of ii into hie o^«» hepde; and wffifc wi^ thiree aeeist«|j^
to M»o¥e )l privatelj ftftOi the liMlo chipreh of S(L Gregory^ J|^
whkh it h»i been piaoed< In thb fittenpt, how^Tor, he kM
eompleteiy (oiled by the good s^t^ who had no inclination to go
with him; nothet h»o ehwev^niai^^ ^fret '' as agreejthiU
of stone,'' wd his body ae im^noiweaUe! ''.as a mountaiii/' 1aj\
Aflwin arriifed, when the niartyr qnietly fnfisr^ huneelf to ^
remoTed to his Ibrmer residence.
Sw^ having gained nndi^atoJ poeseasion of this part of the
irisndk ^ 1014 levied a general and he^vy contribution otn hi|^
new anbjeots. From this tax the monks claimed m exemption
ftff their poseesiions, and dented Ailwin to remonstrate in theif
behalf with the king. His mission, however, procured no relief.
Sweyn's sudden death happening very soon afterwards, it wan
represented as a punishment inflicted by the angry saint Being
jiprronttded one evening, we are told, by his nobles and officers,
he idl a^ on^ce excliomed : '' I am strnck by St Edmund !'' and
thongh the hand which inflicted the wound was not seen^ he Ian*
goished only till tho next morning, and then expired in tomen«s
9 rf
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The raport of tfak ttiracialoiii inteipositioii wk» higUy »4vMte^
gMiis to tbe ooDTent ; the people a^Nieed ea themaelvee e vohm-
tery tax of four-peace fo every oanieate of Imd iathe dieiwii^
ivhieh they eimd to the hcnor of the eaiat and aiaftyr^ •• as
ackoowiedgmeat of their gratitade aad devotion.
Caaate^ the ooa and taecower of Sw^a ie «id to have betR
aa taniied by the Yeageeaoe of EdaMuri^ thel to aapiate hia la-
ther's eriiaee, aad pn^itiato the angty ieanl^ ha took the meaa*
ateiy of Biury aader hie eopadel pretaatimi* Sach araa the aa*
candeacy wUeh the lagalani had gahted qw the auad ef thii
MHiardi, that Ailwia, iriio ia 1080 waa oeaeeeratad bishop ef
Halm* aivaiM hiofeelf of il to eject the aeealar elergry
this coBveaty aed to aapply their phaea witii twelve I
i^oaka, wheal, with Uviaa their pnor, ha reaioved hither from Aa
aKHiiMtery at Hals. At theaaiM time he exaa^tadthe eoareaitf
aad aU within ita jariadklioa, ftam epiaoopal aathteity^ which
was to be exereiaed by the abbot only, aad fcnr mmmm wara
ereet(»d to fix..lfith aeoaiaey the booadary of hiajivialietioa.
The following year the bishop laid the feoadatioa of a magai£»
aeui eharehy the expenaea of which were defrayed by the Tokui*
tary tax upon land ahoTe-meationed^ and by the oontributioaa of
thepiona.
Theae piaeeedinga of Ailwin were not only tatifred by Caavto,
bat he iaaaed a royal eharter, eoninning M former grants and
privilegea to the abbot and convent^ and conferring several new
ones. Of these^ the most important was the right of reaerving
for their own use that proportion of the tax called Dan^geld,
levied iqion the iahabitanto of the town. These gifts were settled
oa the abbey with a fearfal curse^ oa each as shoald molest the
monks in the poaaeaaion of them ; and the charter^ aigned by the
king,
* ThoQgh aott of oor hUtoriaiu nearly correspond in their e^ant of
Sweyn's deeth« yet one of tbeoi« Williem of Malmsbory^ obtenreti ^h«|
the canie of it was nnceitain ; end Batteley iiaa attempted in bii motk
to retcae the memory of Sweyn from what be terrn^ tfat calamaiet of the
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long, ^een^ nni archlwiSiops^ was attested by tUrty-twd mklLtt^
prelate and abbots.
- In 10d2^ tbe mw charch being' finished,* was eonsecrated* hf
Athelnorh, archbishop of Canlerbury. The body of the royal
martyr was deposited in a splendid shrine, sriomed with jeweb
and costly ornaments ; and Cannte himself repairing hillMr to
perfonn his devotions, ofoed his erown at the tomb of the saiiit
The mistaken piety of sncceeding monarchs augmented th^
fame, the iaqwrtance, and the wealth of the abbey of Bury ; hot
to none was it more indebted than to Edward the Confessor.
This monarch granted to the abbot and convent the town of Mil-
denhall, with its prodnoe and inhabitants, the royalties of eight
hundreds, together with the half hvndred of Thingoe, and also
those of all the yiUages sitaated in those eight hmkbeds and'
a half which they previonsly possessed.t He likewise conferred
the privilege of coining at a mint established within the pvwciBer
of the monastery. Edward' often pud his devotions in person sit
the shrine of -Uie royal martyr, and so great was his veneratis*
for him, that he wasaeeostomed to perform the last nule of tim
joumey on foot like a common pilgrim.
The
* It ftppean that tiie third church trat dther entirely, or chiefly coxutrdct-
ed of wood.
t The oceaiton of this princelj gift is thas idatsd in the Cpiket. Bsritois.
In the first jear of his reign the kiog came to Bttry on St Edmund's dajf ; and
next morning seeing the joong monks eating barley-bread^ enquired of the
abbot why tliose young men of his kinsmaUj as he called St. Edmund, were
not better fed.' " Because," replied the abbot, our possessions are too weak,
to maintain them with stronger food."—" Ask what you will,** said the king,
'* and I will give it you, that they may be better provided for, and better
enabled to perferm the senriee of God." The abboV having consulted with
his monks, asked of the king tbe manor of Mildenhall, with its appnrte*
nances, and the jurisdiction of the eight hundreds and a half, with all the
royalties, afterwurds called the Franchise. The king observed, that his
request was indiscreet^ because the grant of these liberties would inTolTe him
and bis successors in continual trouble ; that he would willingly have granted
him three or fbur manors; nevertheless, out of respect to hit ki&iman^ hs
Would grant the'tequest, however indiscreet*
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The eataUiBhmeDt had now tttatnednncb' wealth and splendor,
that the monks resolved to proTide a stiU more magnificent recep'*
lade for the body of their saint than any in which it had hitherto
kcea deposited. The church bnilt by Ailwin was demolished, and
another was ereeted of hewn atone, nader the auspices of abbc^
BaUwin. The materials for this stmeture were brought by the
permisaion of king WiUiam the Conqueror, free of expense from
the 4piames of Bamack, in Northamptonshire; and it was in ^
skate of syfficioit forwardness to receive the sacred remains in
IQ96. Thia waa the last removal, as the church now erected
^aantianed.to eiist till the period of the dissolution.
It could not be doubted, were no record left to attest its magnt*
&Knee, tiiat ^m plan, execution, and embeOishments of this
atructure, corresponded with the prmeely revenues of the esta-
Uiahiaent to which it bdonged. Leiand, who saw it in all its
glory, in .(peaking (rf thia town, describes it in the following
tanas :— A city more neatty seated the sun never saw, so curi-
ously 'doth it hang upon a gentle descent, with a little river on
the east aide ; nor a nmnaatery more noble, whether one considers
its endowments, largeness, or unparalleled magnificence. One
night even think the monastery alone a city ; so many gates it
has, some whereof are brass : so many towers and a church, than
"which nothing can be more magnificent ; aa appendages to which
there are three more of admirable beauty and workmanship in the
aane chnich-yanL^'
The abbey church, or church of St. Edmund, was 505 feet in
length, the transept 212, and the west front 240. This last had
two large side ehapeb, St Faith's and St Catharine's, one on the
nortli-weat, and the ether on the south-west, and at each end an
octagon tower thirty feet each way * The shrine of the saint
waa preserved in a semicircular chapel at the east end ; and on the
north aide of the choir was that of St. Mary, eighty feet long, and
forty^two broad; and St Mary in cryptis was 100 feet in length,
eighty
« Part of this front, with one of the igwen, is itiU ttandiaa* •■ will be
noticed hereafter.
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62 ccrFPOUL
eigkty in breadth and ciqiported by Iweuty-four piHm. Be*
•idefi the dooke, there was a high west tower over the middle aiaie,
and tiie vhole ikbrie Im supposed to have been eqnal in aome !«•
apecta in grandeur to 8t Peter's at Rosie. As to its height, no
data are left to enaSk os to form an <^inion.*
The (d>bey was governed by sn abbot, who had several great
officers under him» as a prior, sub-prior, sacrist, and others ; antf
in its most prosperous state there were eighty monks, fifteen chap«
kins, and one hundred and eleven servants, attending witlnn ili
walls. It had three grand gates for entrance ; and its lofty walla
enclosed three other churches, besides the abbey church, several
chapels, the cloisters, and offices of every kind.
Among other privileges conferred on this abbey, we find that
Edward the Confessor granted to abbot Baldwyn the liberty af
coinage, which was confirmed by William the Conqueror. Ste-
phen, in his seventeenth year, gave authority for two additional
mints to be set q> in Bury« Stow inlbrms us, that there was oaa
in the town in king John's time. Edward I. and IL also had
mints at Bury ; and some of their pennies coined here are yet
extant.
The abbot of Bury enjoyed all the spiritnal and temporal privi-
leges of the mitred abbots ; and in addition to them, some very
important exclusive immunities. Of the latter kind, was the ex*
emption from the ecclesiastical authority of the dioceaan, ao that
none but the Roman pontiff, or his legate, could exercise any
spiritual power within the limits of the ahbof s jurisdiction. Thir
privilege often involved him in violent disputes. As early aa
the reign of William the Conqueror, we find the abbot Biddwia
engaged in a controversy on this subject with Herfeatus, bishop of
Hnlm,
* A very cnriont model of this chnrcb wa$ to be seen some yean ego at
Mr. Tillot*!, OD tbe AngeUhill. It was ten feet long, five wide, aiid of pro*
portional height, and bad 380 windowt, and 300 niches, adorned with
iniagesj and other Gothic figures. The model of the shrine was ornamented
with images, and crowns, and gilt, as in its original state. The twelve cha-
pels bekmgiog to this magnificent edifice were also represented.
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IMte, jA» hA idtoMiiMd Us inteni^ii of remimng the see to
Btfy. Tlie .iM>oii^ uhrmed at this tlire&tened inTasion of the
j^riTileges of his oonvent, applied to the lung, and hy his adviee,
repaired to Rome, where pope Alexander II. not only confirmed its
fermer immiuities and exemptions, hy a hull dated at the Lateran,
&Lh Calend. Noremh. A.D. 1071. htit also presented him with a
porphyry altar f>r his "chnteh, with tiiis extraordinary privilege,
tinft if an the rest of the kingdom were under excommunicatiott,
fliiass teight he there celehrated, unless expressly and hy name
prohibited hy his boHness. These fovors only served to redouble
the bishop's exertions to carry his point, and he resolved to try
what the seductive eloquence of gold would effect ; while the
monks, on &e ether hand, had recourse to s^ more persuasive
vsenns. The issue of Ihis afiair is thus related hy archdeacoB
Herman, who himself bore a part in the transaction. ** The bishop
Tiding one day, and conversing on the injuries which he medi-
Med against the monastery, was stmdc upon the eyes by a branch,
and a violent and painful suffusion of blood occasioned immediate
blindness; St. Edmvmd thus avenging himself, and punishing the
temerity of the invaders of his rights. The prelate long remained
cotirely blind, and could obtain no reliefl Coming in one mom*
ing and commiserating his condition, I said to him : " My lord
Bishop, your endeavora are useless, no coilirium will avail ; you
should seek the fitvor of God and St Edmund. Hasten to abbot
Baldwin, that his prayers to God and the saint may provide an
efficacious medicine! This counsel, at first despised, was at
length assented to. I, Herman undertook the embassy, and exe-
cuted it on the same day, the festival of St Simon and St Jude.
The abbot henignantly granted the request ; and the feeble bishop
came to the monastery, being graciously received by the abbot,
and admonished to reflect, that as offences against God and St
Ednnmd were diminished, the medicine to be applied would more
certainly aUeviate his sufferings. They proceeded into the church,
'Where, in the presence of the elder brethren, and certain peers of
the realm, Hugo de Montfort, Roger Bigod, JUchard, the son of
Gilbert'
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M BtJTVOUL
Gilbert^ &C. the bishop declared the cause of hia mirfntaie}
recites the injoriea he had conceived against this holy place ; «oii*
fesses himself culpable ; condemns his advisers under an anathema ;
and binds himself by a vow to reject such counsels. He then ad*
vances with sighs and tears to the foot of the altar; places on it
the pastoral staff; prostrates himself before God and St. Edmund;
performs his devotions, and receives absolution from the abbot and
brethren. Then having made trial of the abbot's medicine, and
as I saw, by the application of cauteries and colliriums, assisted
by the prayers of the brethren, in a short time he returned per*'
fectly healed : only a small obscurity remained in the pupil of one
eye as a memorial of his andacity/'*
A few years afterwards, however, this prelate, forgetful of hia
professions, renewed the contest, which was not terminated till
the king convoked a council at Winchester, in which the subject
was fuUy discussed, and the claims of the abbot admitted by that
august assembly. William at the same time granted a charter^
confirming all those of his predeceasors, and subscribed by him-
self, his queen, his three sons, two archbishops, thirteen bishops^
and twenty abbots and nobles.
In 1345, a contention not less violent, commenced on the same
account, between the abbot, and William Bateman, bishop of
Norwich, who claimed a right of subjecting the convent to ecdesi-
astical visitation. King Edward III. by letters-patent, deter-
mined in favor of the abbey, and commanded the bishop to desist
/rom his attempt to violate its privileges. The prelate^ however,
disregarded this mandate, and excommunicated the messenger
who served it upon him. The abbot now had recourse to the law ;
a jury returned a verdict iu his iavor, and sentenced the bishop to
pay thirty talents, or 10,0001, the penalty attached to his of-
fence by the charter of Hardicanute. In subsequent proceedings
this judgment was affirmed ; but though the bishop's temporalitieB
were decreed to be held in the king's hands tiU tlie fine should be
pud
« HegUtr^ Hub. MkeU Burini, p. SSa.
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faUj «|d m iay mm appoiated to Mixe his body« lie fooiid i
iiT delay till the ftSMt of September, 1347, when the erdibishof
tmnmoned a conneil at St. Paul'a to decide the nwUer, and a oeiii-
promise was oondnded between the contendiiig parties. The
bishop engaged not to molest the monastery in the ei^ynent ef
its priTil^gea, and on this condition was restored to his eoclesiat*
Ileal avftority and temporalities
The abbot of Bury was a spiri^al parliamentary baron; ho
iield ^rnods in his own chapter-hoose, and appointed the pi^
roehial eleigy of the town. His tempocal wcie not less impor-
tant than hiB eceleaiastical preregativea. He pesaessod the pow*
cr of trytQg and determining by bis highnrteward all canses
within the franchise or liberty, which extended, as we haTO
seen, over eight hnndreds and a half: and in the town, and
a mile roand, he had the anthority of chief magistrate, and
of tnflictii^ aq^ital ponishment No officer of the king oonld«
withoat his pemussion, hold a oonrt, or ezecnte any office in
Bory. As lord of the town, he claimed the right of vf^
pointing the alderman, though it was afterwards agreed that the
other burgesses composing the corporation should enjoy the privi*
l^ of electing that i^ker. Before he entered apon his functions
however, he wan expeoled to receive the abbofs confirmation, and
to take the following oath : — " Ye achall awere that ye schall here
yow tiewly and fiuthfnlly in the office of the aldermanscipe of this
town of Bury, ayens the abbot and the cbrent of this place and all
hermynistris: ye schall here, kepe, and maintaine pees to yowre
powere, and ye achall nor thing appn^re nor accroche that longyth
to the aaid abbot and covent, nor take upon the thyngis that long
on to the office of the baylisoipp -of the sayd town: also that ye
shall not procure, be yow, nor be noon other, priryly nor openly,
any thyng unlawfid, that might 1m harme or damage on to the
se^ abbot and oofent, nor snffinmd to be done ; but that ye schall
be redy to meynteyn and defende them and there mynistris ynaft
^rygbta and customs that of dew long on to them, inasmncho
Vol. XIV. F . aa
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06 SUFFOLK.
M» ye may leyMlj do. Thees aityeles, and poyntia ye sKaf
4>lmerve and kepe the tym tiiat ye stand in thw office. So hel^
yoa God and all his seynts and by this boke/'*
This sopreve aathority exercised over the town by the abbot,
waa a cause of frequent dissention between him and the inhabit-
ants, which sometimes terminated in the moKt violent outrages
The most remarkable of these disputes occcnrred in 1327, whea
the townsmen, headed by their ahleman and chief burgesses,
and having collected 20,000 persons from the neighboring
towns and villages, made an attack upon the monastery and
its possessions, and threatened the total destruction of the esta-
Jiiishment. Having demolished the gates, doors, and windows, and '
heaten and wounded the monks and servants, they broke open
the chests and co&rs, ont of which they took great quantities of
rich plate, books, vestments, and other valaaUes, besides fire hun-
dred pounds in ready money, and three thousand florins. They
also carried away three charters of Canute, four of Hardkanute,
one of Edward the Confessor, two of Henry I. three of Henry III.
twelve papal bulls, with several deeds, writt0n obligations and ac*
knowledgments for money due to the convent Great part of the
jnonastery was reduced to ashes, and many of the manors and
granges belonging to it in Bury and its vicinity, ahared the same
£iite. The abbot being at this time in London, the rioters seized
and confined Peter Clopton, the prior, and about twenty of the
monks, whom they afterwards compelled, in the name of the whole
chapter of the convent, to execute, under the capitular seal, a
4eed, constituting the burgesses a guild or corporation. They
also forced them to sign an obligation for the payment of ten thou-
sand pounds to certain of the townsmen, to discharge them from
all debts due to the monastery, and to engage not to proceed against
them at kw for any damage done to the monastery. The king
being informed of these transactions, a military force was sent to
suppress the disturbance. The alderman and twenty-four of the bur-
* Yutei't Hitt, of Bury f p. 94. copied from a ledger-book of the abbey
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MVJFWUL (1^
r note ia|MM0B6d ; tkir^ carte f«U <if the rioten were tekeii
priflonen to Nonridi; ttineteeii of the moit notorioiis offendeft
.were ex«cated, aad one mm praned to death, becaose he refoaed
•to poi himaelf apon his trial. Thirty-two parochial clergymea
-were convicted as abettors. The enquiries that arose oat of this
ai&ir occapied near five jears^ the final decision being given bj
hmg Bdward III. in eauncii .in 1332. The justices connnissioned
rlaisvestii^Fate the.anmnit of the damages sustained by the abbey,
. had estimatejd them at the enonaoas som of 140,0001. but at the
king's request the aU^t remitted to the oflfenders 1S3,383I. 6s. 8d,
and at length Ibrgave them the reautinder, on condition of their fu*
tare good bdmvier. AUthedeeds and charters taken from the mo- .
•nsatery were to be restored; all the instrmnenta aad obligations
tobtained by feree, were declared anil and void, and were to bede«
livered up to the abbot Fox states, that Berion, the aldennan^
Herling, thirty-two priesto, thirteen Jiromen, and 138 other per-
sons of the town, were outlawed; and that some of these, to re-
venge the abbof s breach of promise, surprised him at the manor
of Chevington. Having bound aad shaved him, they conveyed
hhn to London, aad thaice over the sea into Brabant, where they
kept him a prisoner. He was at length rescued >y his friends^
who had discovered the place of his confiniBaient. .
The monastery of St Edmnnd's Bury remained 619 years in the
possession of the Benadietme monks, and during that time was
• governed by thirty-three abbots. Its regular revenues consiiBting
' of fifty-two knighf s fees and three-quarters, together with the
royalties of the eight hukbreds and a half, were valued at the
^sedation by the commissioners at 233^1. 16s. The income of the
abbey must, however, have been most ntaterially under-rated;
aad besides this, the monks possessed many sources of revenne
which could never be accurately ascertained. An intelligent writer
of the last century calculates that all the possessions and perqni-
qutes of this abbey would at that time (1726) be worth not less
than 200,0001. per annum : and from the astonishing increase in
the value of landed property and agricultural produce, since that
F2 pv>«^
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feffiod,ftiaiQr«ifelyJbaafiiiiied tkiA «t Hut MMat Ifa^r i
jridd a yearly iawme of at least dimblc the 'akife amoant.
When Hevy VIII. feioWod to lepknwh Jws edbaartad JLtmmf,
jby seiaiiig the ywetaoaa of the monaatie oftaUnhnenlB, the
abhey tfBury nas iapluded in the geneial doitractioa. Soom la-
aieetaal ilniggjes veve made by the ahhat aad-caaTeat^ to awett
the impendk^ blum. In 1686, they aettted apoa oeerelaiy
CMOMvan and faia iob, aa aaanity ef ten iioanda, pagrdMe o«A 4rf Iha
jMtB <tf the nanBr of Haikwe, kk EmtoL Bat oeHlHr Ihk peir*
aion, nor the fiiU aoknoviadgaieBi «f the klag's aapieBK. eoeia*
aiaatical aotharity, avaikd them any thing. On fike 4th of
Noraaiber ISM, the ahhot and has hralhren, ime aampoUed aa
anisaader the aMmaattfy and all its peaaeniaas to his nmfesty ;
aaddriren iron their splendid muMion and anqde ra^enaas, to
sahsistiyon a gosnty stipend.
The oAo&dfopoit «f theeeaunissioaersappoinledtofiBSttya
ahhey at the 4liawki«ion, states tint they lonnd hare " a ckha
ahryne which iraa very oamhsaaBS to defaeo. We have taken/^
they ooatiaae, '^ in the seyd aMaastery in golde and mkrer 0060
Msrirffw and aho?e, besyds as well a riche eiaaae with aawiaids,
as ako dyyeia and aandiy stones of great yaloe; aad yet we hata
left the churehe, ahhott, aad oonvent^ 'very well fiwnashed wUh
plate of syWer naaessiry lor Ae same'^.*'
In another icpait signed '' ^hn Ap Riee/' and dated <« inm
Borie, 6th Not. 1589/' he says: '' As tonohing the convent we
eotdd geate little or no eonpiaints anonge theym, although wa
did nse HMMshe diligens ia oare enawinaoion ; aad therly with
aome other argnments gathered of their exsaiinaoions fonnerly,
I believe and aappose they had eooledered and compacted ha-^
loare onre comyng, that they shoulde disclose nothynge ; and
yet it is confessed and proTed, that there was here such ireqaenoo
«f w^imen eemyn, and reasserting to this monosterie, as to no
plaoe more. Amongeat the reliqaes we fonnde moehe Tanilio
and
* liS.OotaMi. Lib.
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«VfVOUU M
Bcewtft tested vMial;
ike FwyBr of St EdnwA't nftylls, St. ThoMM of Caat^v
' and k»Wito»-; aad divevs akidb far tlie bead-isohe,
k of tbo lioli# CroM able to make a bbfe eiOMe; of otfaor.
ittlifaoa Ibi i^we, aad oeitaiao olhor saycwtkioiia uaages; fer
amdii^ of veeda gfowiag ia oom vHhonok otiMr/'*
In toneliing vpon tka tnponrtilioiMi'piaoliMay and flogrant impi6a»»
tana oaariodoftaitUa mowiattry> we nnat not omit to mw^n
the aingvlai MMmonji of the ptooMaioii of tlio ivUto bnlL Thm
aacnatof tko aamat^wy^ aaotfUn aa Iwfattlio haida near tin to««
Htfnr anAatttt oailod Hikritei, ia»»and thin eondKtim, tliaitili%
tenant. shonU f vofide % n>lti>a b«U» wlMiMver a. nMtton of tank, or
a^ oUwa ahanMTOHH^ qntr of demotion, or in CBBeogmiiee of a viiw»
to nako tka oUalion&of tiio wlute bttU, aa they vera dailoil^^
atthaotrine of^ Bdomnd. Qn thia aecaaion» the anunafcadotnedb
nitk phMnatnAfaiiandti, inm btoagkl to the aontk^afea at tiio!
IP, and kdak«i Cainiak-.g«tei GoiMbd!, and Akkey-gate
, to* tke ipwat: nod gate, tke ladjjK aU tko wkA knefMng
doaoi to kii%.aiid tke moakn'and people Ibnninf aiUannmia ca»
▼ntcada Beaatk^ inaeMea ended; tko anioni ivaa^oondaoted;
bnA tOr kia jmlxu^ «kile tko Iki^ aq^ied toStt BdHiiuid*a2
akme to mak» ker oklationa^ as a.eertniD eonaefuflnne ol wtneli,
akawaaaoan to beoome ameAw. Aa f<k«ign lnUrn^ denronaiof
kanfl^ mijkt kave fiM|qd.H.kQMwenient to iipnlaUlkeiiiiupaiaon,
to aaaiat at tkeae coremoniee, tkey were certain to prove equally
efficadoaa if peiibnned by proxy. In a deed, a copy of wkich ia
giren ky Hnnkins^f Jokn Swaffham, sacrist of tke monastery of
Fd St
• MS. Cotton. Lib.
t William Haukios, a acbool-miuter of H«dleigb» i^ 4bU eosiitj^ wb» .
in bis C^oUti vria, a very scarce book, printed at Cambrids« in l^dtt* Ims
given a bamonrai accoant of tbe cciemooieft of the procoMioi^ in jnot iaeIcK
nelXatiDivefM. He obaervea« that not n ccatnry had tbcn e]api«4» aiitce*
Ib^ pcoccMions ceased, and the traditioB of tbam waa itiU gfiotnify prevaleat*
In hii- work, he b«» iatioducad tbrte leaiti, tbatcwiaiiMthi csadilMD aboi*
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70 SVFFOIR.'
St Edmund's Bury, certiieB all Chrittian people, that oti tlie M
June 1474,thiee religious persons, whom he names, of the eity of
Crhent, came and offered, as had been aecustomed of old time, at the
shrine of the blessed King, Virgin, and Martyr, St. Bdmnnd, in the
presence ofseTenl reputable people, and of the said martyr, one*
vhiteboll, for the aeconplishment of the longing of a certain noMe*
lady (tii reUvatnen desiderii cnjusdam n<^Ui9 ixmkMt.)
Before the dissolution. Bury contained an tnHnrior motiastic
establishment of Grey Friars, or Franciscans. About 12M or 6
some brethren of this order came to the town during a Taoancy in
the abbacy, and having procured a situation in the north part of -
Bury, began to perfenn religious exerttses. The monks, indig-
Qant at this intrasion, and finding remonstrance of no elect, de-
moliafaed the buildings and expelled the friars, who ap[rfied to the
eonrtof Rome for redress : when Pope Alexander IV. reproved the
monks, and ordered the friars to be put in possession of an esisfte
in llie west part of Bury. The monks still continued firm intlMir
resistance to this encroaohment on their privileges; so that king
Henry IIL who with many of his nobility had espoused the caase '
of the Franciscans, was obliged to send down lus chief justice to •
Bury, and to establish them by firoe. Upon this, they lost no time*
in o(mstructii^ suitable religious edifices. The pope soon after '
dying, the monks renewed their qiplieation to his successor; and
seconding it with an argument whi^ seldom fiiiled of petuuading
the
specified. To one of tbem, dated $8th April, 15? 3; is appetided the'scal of
the monastery, of which he has giren a neat engraTing. On one side it re-
presented St. Edmnnd, with his crown and sceptre, seated under a gothic ca-
Bopjp, with A bishop standing on each side, and this legend, aominb btipa-
TTS ssosT Hio Kiz poKTiFicitvs : on the rererse, in the tipper part, ap-
pears the siHne king tied to a tree, transfixed with numeroas arrows, while se- '
▼era! persons, armed with bows on either side are taking aim at his body.
In the lower part, he is kneeling, and a man has just cut ofl^ his head cToaeto
which sits its brote protector. The legend is: siohtk sacasrvK cap 'ti
SAWOTi ftSMVK nt BBois ST MA It tiR ts. Au engTHTiog of the same ^ral ii al*'
fo ginniif YatesV History of Borj.
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8VFF0LK. Ti
Hie pafil oomit, Uriiaii IV. revoked tbe bulb of hn predecessor,
coauatAaded the firian; to denolish their buildings, and on pain
of exconunanicaiion, to leave Bury within one month. The friara
had not oonrage to withstand thia iajanction ; bat pnbUcly re*
Boiuioing all right and title to their estate in the town, the abbot
and eonrent aaaigned them part of the monastic possessions iai
Bahhorweil, where they, ereoled some handsome educes. The
site of this religions establishment is still caHed the FHary.
At the reformation there were in Bnry, five hospitals, St. Sa*
vior's 9i North-gate, St Peter's at Risby-gHtfe, St John's at
SnM^iSf^, St Slephea's and St Nicholas' at East-gate; one
eoUege, called Jeans coflege, in College street, conaisting of a
warden, and aix asaoctates, and the following chapels, whose
namea and situations are yet known, though the buildings have*
loDg been demoliBhed : St. Mary's, at East-gate bridge, another
at West-gate, asd a third at Risby-gatfe; St Michael's, in the
iDfirmary; St Andrew's, in the cemetery of the monks; St«
John's, in the hill ; and St John's ad fontem; St Annexe in cryp*
tis; St Theaiaa'% near St Savior^s; St Lawrence'a, in the
oMut yard ; St Gyles's, near the nave of the church ; St Petro-
aiifs, within the South-gate; St Botolph's, within Sonthgate-
street; St Edmund's, or Round chapel in the church-yard; and
St Dema's, beaidea th^ Hermitage, at West-gate, and thirteen
other chapeb, the sites of which are unknown, on accoant of tiio'
mMiy alterations made in the town since that time, by fire aad
other aceidenta. Thus it must have contained upwards of forty'
churrhea and chapela, most of which were amply endowed, and to«
gether aiorded subsistence and employment ta forty or fifty ec*
dcaiastics, under adeacon and archdeacon.
During the prosperity of the abbey, it comprehended within ita '
pnciaeta, beaides the conventual ehureh, three oth^, St Mar*
gaxet's, St Mary's, and St Jamea's. The former has kmg ceased '
to be ap^priated to religions purposes, and b now used as the
towa-halL The othera are the churchea of the two parishes into
vhieh Bury is divided.
F 4 St. MilRT's.
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n
St. Mart's ivm fint erected in 1005. It began to be rebttflt iir
ito present state in 14d4, and was finUhed abeot the year 1489.
This stractore is 139 feet long, exdosive of the chaaoel, and i7<
in breadth; the chancel is 74 feel by 68. It is dindsd intothNO
aisles, sepanled hma each other by two rows of slender and de-
gantcolnnms. Theroof of thenave^ constmeted in France, aai
f «t together after it was bronghit to England, is admiied for im
lightness and elegance. The finely carted fignre oC angdsi snp-
povtii^ the principaLi of the roof, fortanaitely, fran their height^
escaped the iiiry of the pnritanical zealots of the seventeenlb
century. The north porch of this choich, on which is inscribed^
oraie pr^ ammuUms JokomU Notymgkam, et IsabiUe tMsem
mia, and particularly the cul de lampe, is of curious workaan*'
ahip.
Previonsly to the reformation^ St Maiy's was mnch disti»*
gnished fer its nninsroua altars,* images, and pictuies. AVthn
dissolution of the Abbey, this church, a» well an St Janiea'a '
included in the general system el plunder, boti of timm. 1
ntripped of plate and other <^Haments» then Taked at about 4801;
Both likewise c(mtaine4 nuaefons inacriptiins, and efigies in
brass; but these, as we learn from the town books, were, in 1644,
torn off by the church- wardens^ and sold fer tkeiff private emekb*^
ment : so tbat the monvments of the highest aniiipiity m these
chnrches are much defeoed.
'On the north side of the eemmnnion table in St Mary^schnr^
was femeily n plain altar monument for Mary Tudor, third daugh^
ter of king Henry Y II. This princess, who honoured the town of
£iicy with her especial fevor and protectioB, had by her beanty
and accomplishments, won the heart of the Duke of Sofidk, one
of the most distinguished characters at the oonrt of Henry VIII.
The shining qualities of tbe duke, had prodnced a rse^racal at»
tachnMiit on the part of the prinoess ; but policy, and the etifostte
of
• Part of one of these, suppoied t« be onr lady't altar, m itill to bs tcna
agtiiut the looth wftU.
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ff M«lli^ iNiblis tbev taw, MiA itt 1«M, #oiri^
t94taMriiMlf«ry,t0 tfa^arauol theageiaadiafcmlMia;
«f Femoe. To thai cwmlty die mm SMordiiigfy mi^^ willi •
■WftnififfiBt letiiHM; and a* tha tonnaHieBto Md in ceWhwrtaa
•f the BHumgs^ 11k &d^ of Sii£fiklk aignaKied bim
kit eompelitora, ftr dexterifejr^ gaUaotay, and raiov. Tkia u»^
aaiaak vaioft was not of loag dnnkioB; m the daalli ^ Hm
FMnth monarch, tiM dakewaaaaDt to eandiMl^tha pmcM^baak to
Gonaftry, lAmm aoon aftar bar anmd^ ahe, hildl7»
her hand on. tbo oi^oet.of her fiiat offwiioo. nib
t^ng adWaathatpa, uitha»aowity, iBl(l63i«a»iFal^
i in the gioat chnrch of tho moaaaterj^ on the dlsaolntianp^
fli iriMehi Imst vmaneweM removed hither. Her tondiiiraBeim-
plo and unadorned ; it was for some time soppoaed to be only a
cenotaph^ bat <m opening it in 1731, a covering of lead, evi*
denUj incloaing a human body, was found, with this inscription
on the breast: Mary, Queen of France, ld33. Notwithstanding
this discovery, the tomb continued without any external memorial,
of thfrHMikiif -the person. depoMted beieatii it, till 17^ wiis».
Ik; Symanda^ of B«ry« had it iqmiaed aft hia own expenae, and
a BMiUe taUet inserted, with an inscription, recording the partis
enlars stated above.
In the middle of the chancel, lies interred John Reeve, who be-
came abbot of Bury in 1511, and was obliged to surrender the
dihey to the king, in N<¥vemher l^&S, on which, an aoaoity «^
6W maskn waatwnigBed htat Ite satiied ta a laige house;, at the
aovth-west comer of Crown stveet, whicl^ has midergene leas afw
toatiGn than any oUier, of that age, in the town, and where in
1706, his arms were still to be seen in one of the windows. Cha-
grin and vexation probably shortened his life, as he died here on
the 31st of March* following. His grave was« onginaUy, qo-
icred witb a very laige fla^ atone, of madde, embeHished with
4ha anmof the abbey, impidiag thoae of hia haufy, and ako
his pM%<aitnfe in pontificals : but it was broken to make room
6r a new one, to cover a Mr. Sutton, who was buried in the
9 same
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t4 nvwwQVK.
i giMe.* Ob the old stone, as we are infomed hy. Weereiy
> a lAtia inscription to the following effect:—- '' Here lie the
bonei ef . the man, whom Bnry fomerly owved its lord and abbot;
hie name John, bom at MeUbrd in Snffolk, his fiuttHy and &ther
called Beere. t He was intrepid, pradent, learned, and a&ble, np«
right> and a lorer of his vow, and his reiigioii i^ who, when he
had seen the dlst of the reign <tf Henry VIII. died the Slst of
March following. May God spare his soul ! 1540/'
At the east end of the south-aisle, a well exeeated altar nona'*
■ent, for John Baret, who died in 1643, exhibits a striking proof
of the skill of some of our ancient artists, in the durability oi the
red and black substances, with which the letters, engraven in.
difeent parts, were filled . up. Over the monument is a wooden>
ceiling^
* " Abbot Reeve'fi grave-stone of grey marble, whkh formerly bad bit full
effigy inbrsM, with a mitre on hit head, and a crosier in his hand, with fonr
coatB of armi at the comers of the stone, which it Urge, and irerj noble, and
DO doubt, provided by the good abbot some yean before hit death, was, not
leng before I was at Bury in March tf 45-^6, taken up from the mididle of the
cbaac^l in St Matjr's church, at Bory, wbsrt it had rerted sver aineetbt d»»
solntion, to make room for the grave^one of ooe Sutton, the parser of a tbip»
and the abbot't moved out of the church, and laid by the entrance into the^
aoutii perch, in the chnrcb>yard of the said church. ThitI saw, with no small
degree ot indignation, when 1 was at Bury with the late Sir James Bur-
fonghs, walking with him about the precincts of the abbey, and into the two
noble ehefcket of Bury. The lanaties of 1643, only stole the brass of the
grave-stone, but let the booea remain in qniet pnsaniioa of tiwif rightfal Imi«
hitation." {CoU*$ MSS. Vol. XXVIL p. 198.>
t Weever writes Kemis, but this it evidently erroneoos.
t In John Ap Bice's report concerning the misrule of Bury Abbey, at
the time of the dittolotion, it the following character of him .— " At for the
abbot,' we finde nothing to suspect as touching hys livyng, but it was detected
that he laye moche forth in hys granges ; Hbat be delited moche in playing at
clice and cardes, and therem spent moche money, and in bnyldlng for hie
I^atore. He did not preaehe openly. Also that be ceovecfeed divers fitnnea.
into copieholdet, wherof pooremeo doth complayne. Alto he teemeth to be
addicted to the meyuteyning of such luperstiiiou cereraoniea aa bathe bea
wed beretofor."
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SUFFOLK.^ 7J*
mBBg^'^flkiiied inth his motta, in the old English chsaracter, •
^ Gnoe me gtfyern!'' the initiiJB of his name, and other painted
embelUshmeats, the oolois of which remain ihsh and mfaded, •
after the lap^ of thj«e centuries and a half.
intiiia clmrchy on the south side of the chancel^ beneath the
lest arch, iowaids the east» is; a laige ahar moanraent, covering,
the remains of Sir Thomas Dmry, who was privy-connsellor to
Henry Vn. and VIII. and is supposed to have died about the. year
W33. This is erroneously attributed, by Weerer, to Roger
DruTf, who died in 1472^ and Agnes his wife, in 1445. Ail thai.
is Mt «f any inscriptiDn, on Sir Robert's monument is this dis*
tich on the wooden palisades. *
Sacb u je be tome time ware wee,
Socbe as wee are, sacbe schall je be.
Opposite to thk monument, is that of Sir Williain Caremr, who-
dKedin IdOl, and his wife, in IS26. She was first cousin to Sir-
Robert Dmry, juat mentioned. Both these tombs are sarronnded
with WiOoden.railiBg, having the effigies upon them, and the tro-i
pfaiesever head. The stone which covers John Finers, const!--
tuted arch-deacon of Sudbury in 1497, has a brass plate, with his
effigy upon it, and an inscription in monkish Latin. In the vestry
«t the east end of the south aisle, are the figures of John, com-
flsonly called Jankyn Smith, a celebrated beneOactor of Bury,*
and bis wife, engraven in brass^ on a flat stone, on a corner of
whidi was lately to be seen an escutcheon of his arms.
Joseph Weld, esq. Serjeant at law, recorder, and at the time of
his death, one of the representatives of this town in parliament,
is inlenred in the crypt, at the east end of the chancel ; a spot,
says
• He wai an inhabitant of tbjs town in the reign of Edward IV. and gai«
lands in Bury, Barton« Kongbaro, Hepwortb, and oiber places, since im*
proved to tfae yearly valae of SOOI. for celebrating his anniversary, and the
oveiplosfor the benefit of the inhabitants. His portrait on board is still pre-
ienncd in an upper room at the Guildhall. An inscription on the frane/
with*the datei 1473, records his bensfaction.
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^.i4ifM't<b«ch WMorignnllykBHakMllheyctf IMO^bf
h^m kk faiUfilM of goiag m a pUgrnnge to Ife tkrimt «f fit
•^ •! C»Mfiiittt»f ia 8p«M» ud m MsplkaM vMi Ihdr !•>
p., tmaiU llua chv^ ia Imht of thai SMit aft
Bary. Tha pwMiiiii MiaiiMii, Ifcoagii fcr ■faawri ia igp^ma
aaillaiahad UM Iha wfcfaiioa, wfcaafciagBdwdlYLgwMilt
ta aiMf laid ii a« «a laaiB fcoi tfca fcliawmy iainifliw awa Ifci
WMi 4tMr, ia Iba iaiiiiar «r tllabaiUi^9^N-
Oar flwft nobia Sorereign Lord«
Mirir4 iIm VI. by tlM gtMe
afOotff fcytiffof Bagltttd^ Fraoca,
aad Iralan^i Ogftaaw of iba Faitb*
aa4 (n Eartb o( Uia Gbaiaba of .
Kii|lindi and alio of Maad^ tba
•uprvma had, of liU godly devotion
gava 10 Ilia flulihliig of thii cborcba
act. and aUo iit. yarlyo,
fbt tha maynCananca of a fta
granMio lohola within thii
Town, at tba humble tuila of
John Kjrrc and Xtopber Peyton.
t.N^t. Long ly(b and bljMa to
uur K^*ng
Thii
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TUi drndh, uinitiaoltd ^ fmnifcme, is aHae Golhie Imild*-
iagf ttid^e trefi eni k pntionkily tveakitiftil. The windoiro are
Inge, BMumMB and kanisoiiie, aad wefe 'onginaMy adoraed with
{Mdaled gUuM^ some remains of wl»oli| yet left in lliose on tha
•BrUi mie, wt exaciHed in aoeli a mAner as to m^^e ns llie mora
4eepfy Kgret the iitynies they have reoeived. The length of St.
Jamea'achHrcli ial37faek» Hshteaddi,e9; andlhe ehattcdisM
fcgl 8» V S7tot d wehea.
Against the wal on' the aaalh atide^aretwo degant monnments
iaiisWBd wilii kmm tailing, one of them to the Rt. fionble. James
Baifnolii, choef ibaron of this oorat «f Excbequer, iHio (tied ia
1788, in hiBd8dy«ar;snd1iie other to Mary his wife. Hetsre-
fsaaMdod dillmg tn hia rahea of jnstioe ; on each side is a
woeyiBg 6gwe, aad Airrt his eoat of arms, witii other embellish-
asenlB. Sis chaiaeter is rceorfed in a iMin inscription of con-
aMembie lehgth «B the pedeiAd:
The €HUROH*CrAm, which thongh thiity feet distant from this
mMce, aanrea as a steeple to it, is considered to be one of the no-
Mestapsoiflwasof wtatisdonominatodSaxonarehitectore, in this
kiagiooi. Kilty aa^,* that ''thd arches of this tower are all
ismmI, oC a Saxon fenii, aad seem to he mncfh older than Henry
tha Third's tiara/' Some are of opinion, that it was erected in
#ie«eign of WtJffiam ihe Conqneror, at the same time tiiat the ab-
hey-dmndi was first bnilt'Of aloiR, when Albold, a man of rank,
aada ptiest, is said to hare made by permissiob of abbot Baldwin,
alofiier of na smaH sizcf It stands opposite to the west end of
tha abbey church ; to which it served as a magnificent portal, ft
is 80 feet in height, of a qnadrangnlar figure, and remarkable fer
Hia ainple piaianess and solidity of its construction. The stone
«C whish it is hailt, dbonndswiih small shells, that in their natm«l i
alata are exiremely hritie and perishable. These in theii*
had hava acqaired such hsidness, as to resist the injurie s
•If
^Sit«b]kTrafener,p.a]6.
t DeicripUoii of Bar; St. Edmund't, p. 69.
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78 SIHPFOLft.
of teren centuries, eTen when pertly hid beie by the enaAUag
away of the softer gritly particles of the stone. A chapel of Jesus
was originally intended to k«ve occupied the space hetweea St.
James's chorch, and this tower.
. On the west side of the Charch*gate^ near the fewidaliaii; are
two curious basso relievos in sloae. That «■ the left> repments
■anlrind in their Allen state, under the dominion of Satan, by the
figures of our first parents with a serpent twined round then, and
the Devil in the back ground insulting Adam. The other em-
blematic of the deliverance of man from his bondage, exhibits
God the Father with fiowiug hair, and a long parted beanl,
sitting triumphantly within a circle, surrounded by cherubim.
This piece of sculpture which appears to be of considerable aati^
^ity, is in good preservation, except that the principal figure has
lost the right hand. The capitals of some of the pillaia in the in-
terior of this gateway, likewise exhibit grotes^e figures, which
appear to have fcdrmed part of the original building.
Time has lately made considerable impression upon thisyen^
rable edifice. Wide fissurea are conspienons in various parts, ea*
pecially on the side next the church-yard; and on the other it m
said to be twelve inches out of the perpendicular. In consequence
c^ these appearances, the modern belfiry has been taken down;
the bells with all the wood-work, have been removed from the in-
terior, and the clock from the outside, for the puipose of repairs.
Unless means be speedily adopted to jmsenre this relic of tho
chaster style of ancient architecture, it seems highly probable
that the safety of the inhabitants will soon require its total deoKK
lition.
The two church-yards, which in &ct form but one, are kept in
• excellent order: an alley of lofty poplars runs diagonally across
them, and makes a very pleasant promenade. Nearly ia.the
^centre is a small pbt of ground inclosed with high iron railing.
And planted with trees of different kinds. In this place is the
receptacle provided by the late James Spink, esq. banker of
|ury, for himself and his family. The spot where he lies in«
€ tared
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ftVFFOLR. 79
' teneiih marked by a plain marble tablet^ with this inscriptions
».«To the memory of John Spink, esq. who died Oct. 2i, 1794,
' aged 65 years, this tablet is inscribed by his executors, n<^ to re-
cord firtnes which have raised a lasting monument in the hearts
of those who knew him, but to inform the stranger that under tins
. humble stone the constant and unwearied friend of human nature
- IB distress, lies buried, not forgotten/'
WilUn the same inclosore, is a plain upright stone, terminating
' in a pyramid, with the figure of the cross canred upon it, and
underneath the following inscription : '' Here lies interred the
' body of Mary Haselton, a young maiden of this town, bom of
Soman Catholic parents, and yirtuously brought up; who being
in the ad of prayer repeating her vespers, was instantaneously
killed by a flash of lightning, Aug. 16. 1785, aged nine years."
The remains of the west end of 9t. Edmund's church, which
bound the church-yard on one side, at present exhibit a singular
and motley spectacle. One of the octagon towers which formerly
terminated either end, is still standing, and has been converted
ioio a sttMe. Three arches, once the entrances, to the three
aisles, have been filled op with modem buildings, and converted
into as many neat houses, while the intermediate ragged por*
tious of the original massive wall, which is supposed to have been
' once &ced with marble, has braved the ravages of not much less
than three centuries. The antiquary will probably be dispoiied to
regret this pro&nation of these venerable relics. A lady of Bury,
actuated by this sentiment, was some time since desirous of pur- ,
chasing these ruins for the purpose of demolishing the modem
erections, and restoring them to their former state; but probably
her antiquarian zeal was damped by the magnitude of the sacrifice,
which the completion of her wishes would have required.
■ In the path-way, between the two churches, an atrocious at-
tempt was made, in 1721, by Arundel Coke, esq. barrister, with
the assistance of one Woodboume, a hired assassin, to murder his
brother-in-law, Edward Crisp, esq. in the hope of possessing his
property. Ha' had invited him* his wife and family to supper,
and
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and at nighty on pr«teiee of going to see a mtaal SnmA, 1m M
him into the clmreh-yard, whepe on a gi? ea signal^ Woodboome
nuhed upon Mr. Criap, and out hk head and iaoe in a tariUo
mui»ner, with a hodgiag-biU. Leaving him -on the gnmnd for
dead. Coke returned to the company as if nothing had happmied.
Mr. Cri«p, howeTer, was not killed^ and on reoeveiiag htnaelf,
mnatered sufficient strength to oiawi hack to the house of this kl-
huaan relative, wfaoe kis i^pearanoe> m erueily ninngioA and
covered with Mood, excited the ntmost honw and maaaeiaenti, aad
confounded the author of the harharous deed. It was not long
before he was discovered^ and with his accomplice brctaght to
trial, on the statute for dsfiwiBg and Aamembering, eaUed the
Coventry Act. Mr. €ri^ having survived this outrage. Coke
wassogooda lawyer, and so hardened a viiiain^as to hopetoaave
himself hy pleading that he imtended not to defooe, bat to kQI.
TUs justificatioQ, little inferior in atrocity to the crime itself,
imtod him nothing, and seaienee of death was passed upon ham,
and the partner ef iiia gnilt Shenly heUae the ^^y i^pmtad
for liis execution, the nnhi^py coavict requoBted «f the h%|L
sheriff for the county. Sir Jattper CMwm, that if he thought thmv
were no hopes of pardon, he might snier early in the morning, to
afoid the crowd likely to be coUeeled hy each a q^ectack. His
desire was complied with. Whether it were on aocoant of the
(great ooncomrae expected to attend on this oooasien, or that a
resoae was apprehended, an extraordinary gmurd was provided, aa
appears from the charge t>f two giuneas for that service aamiig
the expenoes*.
In the church-yard stands Cloptoa's hoepital, a haadsouM hriek
baiUing, with pn^eetaag wings, founded and endowed in liaO,
agreeably to the will of the kte Pdey Cle|itoa, M.D.f as an
asylnm
* Callam't HawiCed, p. 163.
t This g^tleman, in whom the name became extinct, was descended from
^ yottnger branch of a family formeriy of considerable note in this county.
The elder resided for a consideraA>]e time at Kentwell-Ha)l, near Helfbrd, and
^«be SIhtraad for tome time been seated at Ljstoo, in Bneir Ibont two liilea
olt
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•0FVOLK.
•I
isylmii for six poor meii^ and as maay women, three of either aex
fmt of each parish. They must be widowers and widows, upwards
of sixty years of age, who have been housekeepers, paid scot and
lot, and received no parochial relief. The front exhibits th^ arms
of the founder: a lAtin inscription below records the object of this
institution, and underneath, in very large letters, are th^se words :
JDORENATANT OUBLIEZ NE DOY.
On the same side of the church-yard with the hospital, is a
neat new building, the residence of John Benja£ield, esq. This
house might perhaps have passed unnoticed, had it not been for a
violation not merely of decency, but of what we have beai taught
to regard as sacred^ which has lately been committed by its pro-
prietor. I allude to the inclosure of a comer of the church-yard
in the front of this mansion. And for what purpose has this peace*
ful sanctuary of the dead been invaded P for what purpose have
their hones been disturbed, and perhaps the only remaining memo*
rials of their existence been swept from the face of the earth P
Why, forsooth, that a shrubbery might conceal the house from the
gaze of inquisitive eyes, or hide from the view of its owner th«
numerous mementos of perishable humanity. This appropriation
of part of the public property, for such in every point of view
must a church-yard be considered, was, I am told, permitted by
the corporation. If this information be correct, as there is every
reason to believe, I know not which to admire most, the impu*
dence of the demand, or the indecorum of the concession.
On the opposite side of the church-yard stands the shire hall,
or sessions house, where the assizes for the county are held. It
is a building of modem erection, on the site of the ancient churck
of St Margaret, and contains two convenient courts, in which
criminal and civil causes are tried at the same time. The old
building, together with a piece of ground, was given by Thomas
Badby, the same I presume, who, in 1560, purchased the site of
the abbey, and other estates, granted in the same year, by 'queen
. Vol. XIV. G Elizabeth.
»ff. Ttiat estate the doctor, ^ho died a bachelor, left to his oaly sister, m«r-
ricd to Edwatd Crispe, esq. of Bafj.
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83 SUTFOLK.
Elizabeth, to John E3rre) to be applied to the present pvrpose,
and the profits arising from them to be employed for the benefit of
the inhabitants.
The Ahheyrgate, one of the principal ornaments of Bory, war
the grand entrance to the monastery, and opened into the great
court-yard, in front of the abbot's palace. It is the only relio
now left to attest the former magnificence of this establishment.
8ach is the excellence of its materials and workmanship, that it
is still in a state of mnch more perfect preservation than might be
expected from the number of years which it has stood exposed to
the ravages of the elements, without roof and, without repairs.
Upon the destruction of the original entrance to the abbey, in the
violent assault of the townsmen in 1327, this gate was erected
npon a plan, combining elegance with utility. Its form approadies
a square, being forty-one feet by fifty, and sixtyHwo in height
The architecture is of the best period of the gothic style. The
embellishments, arranged with taste, and executed with precision,
are mnch more numerous than in edifices of an earlier date, but
not in such profusion as in the later and more florid style.
The west front, next the town, is divided into two horizontal
compartments, by an ornamented band, and perpendicularly into
three, consisting of a centre, and twoturriated projecting wings.
The whole is superbly ornamented with devices, and niches for
statues; the heads or groined work, forming the canopies to these
niches, are elegant; and the pilasters of those in the centre and
in both wings, terminate in well-wrought pinnacles. The spandrils
of the arch, above the gate-way, are adorned with two quatrefoil
bosses or medallions; and over them, near the top of the building,
are two others, each representing two interlaced triangles. Most
«f these embellishments are in excellent preservation.
The pillars of the gate-way are composed of clustered cylinders ;
the capitals are simple, and chiefly the Gothic wreath. The
counter-arch of the entrance is surmounted by an undulated arch
yr pediment, springing from the external capitals. Below the
embattled band, which divides the building horizontally, is a ca-
vetto
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SUFFOLK. 83
Tetto moulding, amamented with severai figrnres, most of which
are defaced; bat a lion, a dragon, and a bull worried by dogs,
may rtill be distinguished* The figure of the bull is eleven inches
in length.
In the wall and arch is a groove for the reception of a portcullis.
In the south-west and ntHih-west angles were circular stur-cases,
one of which is yet so perfect, that it is possible, with care^ to ascend
to the platform which runs round the top of the building; and has
five embrasures at either end^ and seven on each side. These stair*
csaes were originally surmounted by octagon towers, fourteen feet
high; but one of these having been blown down at the beginning of
last century, the other was soon afterwards demolished. The area is
aneqnally divided by a stone partition. Its arch was furnished
with brass gates, the hinges of which yet remain. The entrances
to the staircases are in the interior division of the area, so that, if
an enemy had foreed the portcullis, and obtained possession of the
anti-gateway, the defendants would still have commanded the ac-
cess to the upper part of the fortress, whence they might have
greatly annoyed the assailants. All these precautions, as well as
the want of windows next the town, indicate the anxiety of the
flKmks to prevent a repetition of those outrages which occasioned
the necessity of erecting this edifice. The eastern or interior
division forms a cube of about twenty-eight feet. Its walls are de-
corated with light and elegant tracery, and with the arms of Ed-
ward the Confessor, Thomas de Brotherton, earl of Norfolk, and
Holland, duke of Exeter. Over this division, a space of nearly
equal dimensions appears to have been a room. Vestiges of its
roof, floor, and fire-place, are still evident. The north and south
sides have each two small windows. In the east end is a grand
window, overlooking the abbey-grounds, and adorned with tracery
of peculiar richness and elegance. This side of the abbey-gate is
extremely phiin and simple, its only embellishments being three
niches on each side, corresponding with those in the projecting
wings of the west front: but the principal object which claims
G 2 attention
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84 BtJtroLt.
attention here, is the beaatiful arch, the symmetry and elegant
proportions of which are truly worthy of admiration.
This gate opens into the abbey-grounds, still surronnded with
the ancient lofty wall, and containing some massive detached (rag-
ments of the magnificent edifices, which once occupied part of their
site. In the garden, incladed within this precinct, specimens of
various pieces of antiquity have at different times been discovered;
It is known that in the conventual church were interred many
persons of high distinctipn, among the rest, Alan Fergannt, efffl
of Richmond; Thomas de Brotherton, earl of Norfolk, half brother
to king Etlwardll.; Thomas Beaufort, duke of Exeter, uncle to
king Henry V. ; Mary, widow of Louis XII. of France, and sister
to Henry VIII. whose remains were afterwards removed to St.
Mary's church; sir William Elmham, sir William Spenser, sir
William Tresil, knights. Many inhabitants of the monastery, re-
markable for their learning and piety, were also buried here; but
of these none was more celebrated than John lidgate, whose po^
tical talents gained him the universal admiration of his coniem* ,
poraries.
In 1772, some labourers being employed in breaking op a paii
of the ruins of this church, discovered a leaden coffin, which had
been inclosed in an oak case, then quite decayed. It contained
an embalmed body, as firesh and entire as at the time of interment,
surrounded by a kind of pickle, and the fiice covered wi& a cere-
cloth. The features, the nails of the fingers and toes, and the
hair, which was brown, with some mixture of grey, appeared as
perfect as eVer. A surgeon hearing of this discovery, went to
examine the body, and made an incision on the breast; the flesh
cut as firm as that of a living subject, and there was even an ap-
pearance of blood. The skull was sawed in pieces, and the brain,
though waisAed, was inclosed in its proper membrane. At this
time the corpse was not in the least offensive; but on being ex*
posed to the air, it soon became putrid. The labourers, for the
sake of the lead^ removed the body firom its receptacle^ and threw
H
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it among the rubbisL It was soon found, bat by what means we
•re not informed, that the corpse which had been treated with socfa
indecency, was the remains of Thomas Beaufort, son of John of
Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, by his third duchess, lady Catharine
Swinford, grandson of king Edward III. half-brotl^^r to Henry IV,
by whom he was created duke of Exeter, knight of the garter,
admiral and governor of Calais, and lord high chancellor of £ng«*
land. At the battle ef Aginconrt he led the rear-guard of the
English army; afterwards bravely defended Harfleur against the
French; was guardian to Henry VI. and dying at East Greenwich,
on the 1st of January, 1427, was, in compliance with his will,
interred in the ^bey church of Bury St. Edmund's, near his
duchess, at the entrance of the chap^ of our lady, close to the
wall on the north side of the choir. On this discovery, the mangw
led remains were enclosed iu a strong oak coffin, and buried at the
loot of the large north-east pillar, which formerly assisted t^
support the beUry.
In the qiring of 1783, on breaking up some foundations ia
the north wall of St Edmund's church, near the chapter-house,
were found lour antiqiie heads, cut out of single blocks of free*
stone, and somewhat larger than the natural proportion. On ti&e
subject of these heads, Mx. Yates* quotes the various opinions of
antiquaries, who he says have viewed them, but how any person
with his eyes open, could take them for " Roman divinities,'' or
ibr " the decorations of some temple, the ruins of which, might
afterwards be en^loyed in constructing the church ;" it is scarcely
possible to conceive. Nothing can be more evident, even from
the inspection of the engraving given in his own work, than that
tvo of these were representations of St Edmund's head, 'aocom«
paaied by the leg of its brute protector. It is more than probable^
that the oHiGt two, though without that striking appendage, were
nide memorials of the same subject.
In February 1560, queen Elizabclth, by letters patent under the
i;reat seal, granted to John Eyre, esq. in consideration of the sum
G3 ql
• fii9Uo(Bni7,p.0..
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M SUFFOLK.
of 4121. 198. 4d. paid by hira, all the site, circuit, and precinct of
the late monastery of Bury St Edmunds, then recently dissoWed^
besides other premises and lands in the neighbourhood^ formerly
belonging to the abbot and conyent They afterwards passed
into the hands af various purchasers, till in 1720, they were con«
Teyed for the snm of 28001. to the use of major Richardson Pack.
That gentleman soon afterwards assigned the premises to air
Jermyn Davers, in whose fiunily they continued till it became
extinct a few years since, by the death of sir Charles Davers, bart
The GuUdhall, gives name to the street in which it stands. Ita
appearance certainly does not bespeak a public edifice. The
ancient porch of flint, brick, and stone, are totally incongraous
with the modem alterations in the body of the building ; to which
pointed windows, and an embattled parapet, would have given
^consistency. In the chamber ovw the entrance, the archives of
the town are kept under three keys, which are in the custody of
the recorder, the town-clerk, and the alderman for the time beiiig.
Here the town sessions are held, corporation members chosen, and
other business of a similar nature transacted.
Bury seems very early to have enjoyed the benefit of a firee^
school; for abbot Sampson in lld8, erected a school-house, and
settled a stipend on the master, who was required to give gra^
tuitous instruction to forty poor boys. This building stood
near the present shire-house, and the street received from it the
name of School-hallrstreet, which it still retains. The Free Gram^
mar^ckool, founded by king Edward VI. seems tp have been but
a revival of the former ancient institution. Its original situation
was in East-gate-street, but that being found inconvenient, a new
school-house was erected in North-gate-street, by public contri««
bution. The bust of the founder stands over the door, in the
firont of the building. There are forty scholars on the foundation,
and it is free for all the sons of towps-people, or inhabitants. Tha
number of pupils of the latter class amounts to about eighty. This
seminary is superintended by an upper and under master, and adn
joining to the school is a handiBome house for the former. The
present
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8I7Ff6uc. W
freamA baud masto' is tlie Rer. Dr. Malfcin, well known to t]i«
iilerary worlds l»y seTenl pnblicakioiis of considerable merit.
Tbis town also contains tbree cbarity schools. In one of tbese
lotty boys, and in the two others, fifty girls, are clothed and in«
structed in the English language. Besides collections and ocoa«
sional gifts, tiiere is a settled fond of 701. per annum towards de-
fraying the expenses of these establishments. In additioii to
these institutions, a sdiool on the plan of Mr. Lancaster was
opened in S^iiember 1811, in College street, and about 200 poor
boys were admitted into it
The Theatre, was built in 1780, on the site of the old market
cross, from a design by Mr. Robert Adam, and is a beautiful spe^*
cimen <^ his taste and architectural skill. It is of white inrick,
bat the ornamental parts are of free-stone.- As it stands detached
from other buildings, the elegance of its construction may be con*
tempkted to great advantage. George, the second earl of
Bristol, gave 500L towards Uie erection of this theatre, and 4Q0L
towards the finishing of the shambles, which stand in the same
square, opposite to that edifice, and are built of free-slone.
On the Bog Hill, or Beast Market, stands the common Bride^
veU, Ibrmerly a Jewish synagogue, which in old writings is
called Moyse Hall. Its dimensions are tiiirty-six feet, by twenty-
seven. " The walls are of great solidity, fiioed with stone, and the
whole is bnilt upon aiches. The cironlar windows bespeak the
high antiquity of this structure, which is cotyejctured to be of not
much lator date than the conquest, soon after which, the Jewn
settted in thb place. As all their synagogues were ordered to
be destroyed, during the reign of Edward III; it cannot but be
esteemed the greater rarity.
At the upper side of the maik^ are the WoolHaiU, where
great quantities of wool used to be annually d^KMited, when that
article was the principal source of employment of the poorer in--
habitants of Bury, and its vicinity.
in Chnrdi-gate street, is a meeting house hr the Diflsenters,
G4 and
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89 sorroLE*
toA in Whiting street another for Independento. The Quakenr
have a neat place of worship in the Long Brakeland.
At the south side of the open place, knoim hj the name of the
Angel Hill, stand the Astembfy Roams, a newly erected edifice
of simple exterior. The hall room is well proportioned, serenty*
six feet in length, forty-five in breadth, and twenty-nine feet
high. Adjoining to it is an apartment used as a card and sopper-
foom, thirty-seven feet by twenty-four; and the building likewise
contains a subscription news-room. The three balls held aimu-
ally, during the great fiedr in October, are in general attended by
greeX numbers of persons of the first rank and fiuahion, as are also
the four or fire winter balls; but trades-people, however respeot-
able and c^nlent, are rigorously excluded. It has been univer-
sally remarked, that there is not perhaps a town in the kingdom
where the pride of birth, even though conjoined with poverty, is so
tenaciously and so ridiculously suintained as at Bury.
The Suffolk PubHc Library , formed by the union of two libra-
ries, the one'institnted in 1790, and the other in 17d6, is situated in
Abbey-gate street It is not confined to the class which com«
monly constitutes the stock of a circuhiting library, but embraces
many works of first-rate importance and utility. The nuiid>er of
subscribers is about one hundred and fifty, and the sum expended
annually in new publications, amounts to about 120).
The Angel Inn, one of the most conspicuous buildings in the
town, stands on the west side of the Angel HilL The vaults un-
derneath it are supposed fixMU their construction to have farmerty
belonged to the abbey, and appear to have once had a subtena*
neons communication with that establishment. This inn was
given, with some small tenements and pieces of ground, by Wil-
liam Tassell, esq. partly towards the maintenance of the ministers,
aad partly for the repair of the churches, and the ease of the in*
habitants.
At the end of Southgate street, a mile hom the centre of the
town, is situated the new Gaol, which, to use the words af the be-
6 nevolent
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BVFFOUL 80
MtDlcni Mr. ^ield, ^ does himoiir to the comity^ and is sttperior
to most in this kingdom ; vkether we consider its constraction to
•nswer the three great puqioses of secority, health and morals, or
tin liberality of the nu^istrates in proyiding every comforl
which can attend imprisonment'^* This gaol which haaaneaft
stone front, wrought in mstio, was completed in 1806. The
baildittgs are inclosed by a boundary wall, twenty feet high, of
an iiregnlar octagon form, the diameter being two hundred and
mnety-two feet Four of the sides are one hundred and ninety-
two feet each, and the other feur seventy feet and a half. The
entrance is tiie tonkey's lodge, im the leadihit of whieh exeon-
lions are perfermed. The keq>er's \umae, also an irregular
octagon building, is situated in the centre of the prison, raised
mx steps above the level of the other buildings, and so placed that
all the court-yards as well as the entrance to the gaol are under
constant inspection. The prison consbtsof feur wings sixty-nine
feet by thirty-two ; three of these are divided by a partition wall
along the centre, and the fenrth is parted into three divisions; by
which means the different classes of prisoners are cut off from all
communication with each otiier. The chapel is in the centre of
the keeper's house, up one pair of stairs ; stone galleries lead
to it from the several wings, and it is partitioned off, sothat eaeh
class is separated the same as in the prison.
The Hauge of Correetkm, nearly adjoining to the gaol, has by
recent regnlatiotts, been in some measure consolidated with that
establishment. It is bounded by a separate wall, inclosing aboat
an acre of ground, and tha prison stands in the centre. This n«
square building, having the keeper's house in front, and contains
two divisicms, which, with the nine in the gaol, make eleven in
all. These are appropriated according to the following arrange-
ment: 1, and 2. Male debtors. 3. King's evidence, and ocsa-
sionaOy other prisoners. 4. Convicted of misdemeanors, d. Trans<r
ports and convicted of atrocious felonies. 6. For trial for atnH
• GtnUeman'i Magi Dec 1805, p. 1091.
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cious felonies. 7. For trisl for smdl offences. B. Female debtonu
9. Female felons for trial. 10. Females convicted of misdemea^
nors. 11. Females convicted of felonies.
The mies and regulations for tiie government of these prisons
are truly excellent The earnings of the prisoners employed hy
the county are thus divided: two^ilfths to the county, one-fifth
to the govenior, and two*fifUis to the prisoner, one to be paid
weekly, and the remainder on discharge. Their occupations are
grinding com, for which there are two mills, and ginning wool*
The keeper of the gaol and house of correction has a salary of
three hundred pounds per annum, besides penjutsites and fees, *
and they have a chaplain and a surgeon^ with a yearly salary of
sixty pounds each.
Within the bounds of Bury, a very elegant seat was built in
1773, from a plan of Mr. Adam, by John Symonds» LL. D. pro-
fessor of modern history and languages, in the universi^ of Cam«
bridge, who gave it the appellation of St. Edmund's HUl, from
the beautiful eminence on which it stands. Few spots in 8ttffi>lk»
obsetves Mr. Gough,t command so extensive and pleasing «
prospect
A little to the southward of the town, a brick edifice, with tvo
sdaU detailed buildings has been erected since the commencement
of the present war, as a magazine for arms and ammunition.. The
necessity of such an establishment at Bury, where no tnK^s are
stationed, and where no apprehension certainly need be enter*
tained of any sadden surprise, may justly be questioned. The
truth seems to be, that the corporation of Bury wanted a place for
•ne of their number, and in humble imitation of another assembly^
vecommended
* It would be an injostice to a deserring indiTidual, not to qaoto the cks*
tacter given of the preaent keeperi Mr. John Orridge, by Mr. Nield, w^
lays : " in the appointment of a gaoler, I consider the county particokrly
IbrtQoate in their choice of Mr. Orridge ; who, to great abilitieii unites fir»»
netaand humanity in the discharge of bis impoxtaat trosf
t Camden, Vol. IL 16jU
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iiewiuneiided this Hieasiire^ tfaa lie slight be gratified with the
wnecore office of store-keeper.
The toirn had five gates till aboait forty yean ago, when they
^ircre aU taken down by order of the corporation, to affi>rd a nuHre
conveHient passage for carriages; and at each of these gates tiiere
was formerly either «tt hospital or some religions foundation, or
both, as at Eas^ South, and Risby gates. Beyond the North gate,
on the east side, and eontiguous to the Thetford road, are the
mins of St. Saviour's Hospitid, the most celebrated in Bnry, and
which must bare been a very extensive boilding, if, as we are told,
the pailiiment assonbled here in 1446. The entrsnce seems to
haye been originally adorned with a stately portal; the space for
the entrance, with the fragments of a large window above it, yet
temain. Psrt of the wall which sunronnded the hospital and its
i^pnrlenaaees, is also still standing.
The arches in the east wall of the monastery, described by
Gtose,* as well as the East gate itself, are now demolished.
These arches were of considerable antiquity, being evidently
as old as tiie wall itself, which was erected before 1221, by
abbot Sampson, to inclose a piece of ground which he had pur-
'dmsed theve for a vineyard. The use of them was to serve as a
water-courae, and perhaps to form an occasional foot-bridge, by
means of planks laid from one projecting buttress to another, there
bong an arched passage left between them and the wall, to the
west of which was another bridge for foot-passaigers. Not for
from the east gate stood St. Nicholas' hoqpital, some remains of
which, such as the original entrance, and one window at present
itted up on the north side, are yet to be seen. The edifice itself
p eonv^ted into a foim-house; and at a small distatice to the
stands the old ehi^, fiwmerly belonging to the hospital, an
extensive boilding, having seven buttresses on each side, but not
ronarkable either for beauty or elegance, now transformed into a
Ibam and stsUe. On the north side of the road, between East-
bridge
•in% VoI.V.p.66.
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firidgc ttd tins hospital^ a few fragments of cddirall mark tiie«t#
of that of St Stephen.
Jttst without the South gate was the hospital of St. Petroailku
Thoogh this stnictare has Jong been demolished, the chapel which
belonged to it is still pretty entire; its east window, of beantifiii
tracery, was to be seen in 1810, hut is now walled up. This
onoe sacred edifice is at present applied to the purposes of a malU
house. The hospital stood on the south side of this chi^, and
from its site appears to have been an extensive building ; part of
the walls, now serving for fences, yet remain. A small piece of
ground between the hospital and chapel, was probably the ceme*
tery of the establishment, many human bones having been dug ugf
there.
At the West-gate formerly stood Our Lady's chi^l, of whidi
there are no visible remains. An hermitage contiguous to it is
now transformed into a cow-house.
Close to Risby*gate was formerly a chantry, called Stone Chiqpel^
the neatly cemented flint^stone walls of which excite admiration.
It is now the Cock public-house. At a small distance from this
spot is an octangular ston^, which once served as the pedestal of
a cross. Tradition reports, that about the year 1671, the cavity
at the top, in which the cross waserected, being filled with water,
the country-people who resorted to Bury-market, then held with-
out Bisby*gate, because the small-pox raged in the town, wero
accustomed to wash their money, lest it should convey the iafec*
tion to the neighbouring villages.
At the time of the Reformation there was also in Bury a reli-
gious establishment, called Jesus College, which probably gaT#
name to College-street, in which it was sitnated. It was founded
by king Edward IV. in the 21st year of his reign, and consisted
of a warden, and six associates or priests. This building is now
converted into a work-house.
The Vine-fields, eastward ^ Bury, command a charming view
of the town, and particularly of the church-gate, the abbey-gate,
and grounds. This spot derives its name from the vineyard be-
longing
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•IJFFOUL 9§
hmgiug to tke Mtej, wUch wm ntaaAad oa tbit dbdivity. II
W10 porchmsed «boiit tiie ead of the 13lh ceabnry, by Robert d»
Gnvele, B«criit of the convent, m we are infonaed, *' for tW
•olnce of iiiTmlidBy and of hb friends/' and waa by bun ineloaed
with a atone wall. The Tesligea of the parterrea may still bo
traced here*
Bury, although seated on two rivers, cannot boast of ito com*
mnnications by water. The river Laike baa indeed been rendered
navigable to within a mile of the town, bvt the iiUiabitonto deriye
little benefil from it, in proportionto what they night receive from
ito extaunon. AUliopes of thb sie however extiagmished, by the
axeibitant demands of ^e corporation for permission to carry it
uito their jnrisdiction. A few years since, a project was formed
fer constmcting another narigable canal from Bury to If anning-
Iree, in Essex. The intended line was surveyed by Mr. Rennie ;
and, Bickiding a tonnel of two miles, whidk would have been r»-
quked, near Bradfield^ the expence was estinmted at seventy
thewsMid pounds. The plan met with the general approbation of
the inhabitanto of Bury, and the coantry through which the canal
would have passed, as they were satisfied respecting theimpoftont
advantages to be derived from ito execution. This, however, was
tnstrated by the eflbrts of peraens cooneotod with the Larke na-
vigation,
* A late writer on the cHouite of Great Britaio« coutends that it has beeo
gradually growing colder and less farorable for the production of those fn\l$
which require a genial sun. This hypothesis be supports, hy the fact, Chat
wme centuries ago the vineyards, belonging chiefly to abbejs and reiigioas
eMablishaents, were highly floorishiag^ and yielded abundance of wme, with
which tl:e pious fathers of those times felt no repugnance to solace tbemselTcs.
At present we know that nothing of the kind exists in the country, the climate
•f which is not considered sufficiently warm to mature the fruit for the purpose
of making wine. It might perhaps be imagined, that our ancestors possessed
some method of training and managing the Tine, which has been lost in the
lapse of ages, did not the prodigious progress since made in every branch of
science, and agriculture among the rest, forbid such an idea. The more
probable conjecture is, that the people of former times were contented with a
bsfoiage wbish modem refiucmeot in luxuries would reject with disdain.
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M SCJFFOU.
ligation, whose intorestg would have been matfriiilly affected if
auch an undertaking. They found means to gain over the dake
of Grafton and the earl of Bristol, who had at first been disposed
to patronize the project, and also to obtain the support of a ma-
jority of the corporate body ; so that any attempt to eoaateiact
such a formidable opposition, could only have been attoided with
fraitless expence and ultimate disi^pointment.
King James I. in the fourth year of his reign, granted this
town a charter of incorporation. Two years afterwards he gave
the reversion of the houses, tythes, and glebes, called the Almo-
ner's Bams, and of the fairs and markets of the town in fe^-fiurm^
the reversion of the gaol, with the office of gaoler belonging to tha
liberty of Bury ; and alsa the tidl-house now the maiket-croas^
in present poasession. In tiie twdfth year of his reign, the same
monarch was fother pleased to give the churches, with the bell%
libraries, and other appurtenances, also the recUnries, oblationa^
and profits of the same churohes, not formerly granted ; and much
enhurged the liberties of the corporation for the better government
of the town. At the same time he confirmed to the feoflfees of
Bury^ all lands and possessions given by former benefitctors.
The donations in lands, houses, and money, for public and
charitable purposes, are very considerable in this town. A few
have already been mentioned^ but the remainder are by fiir too
numerous to be here particularized.
Bury has three annual fairs, the first on the Tuesday, and two
fisUowing days in Easter week ; the second for three days before
and three days ailer the feast of St Matthew, September 21 ; and
the third on the 2d of December,* for two or three days. The
alderman for the time being, who is lord of the fairs, has a right
to prolong them at pleasure. The second, which is the principal,
and probably the most ancient, usually continues three weeks.
The charter for it was granted to the abbot in 1272, by king
Henry III : and it was formerly one of the most celebrated marts
in the kingdom. It was then held, as it is still, on the extensive
space called the AngeUhill, where difierent rows of booths were
assigned
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SUFFOLK. 05
mnigaed to the mannfactnren of Norwich^ Ipswich, Colchester,
lj>nd»ii, and other towns, and even to some foreigners, especially
the Dutch. • On this occasion Bury was the resort of persons of
the highest distinction, for whom the abbot kept an open table ;
>irhile those of inferior rank were entertained in the refectory by the
«nonks. We are told that the widowed queen of France, sister to
Henry VIII. came every year from her residence at Westhorp,
inth her noble consort, the duke of Sufiblk, to attend this fiur,
^here she had a magnificent tent for the reception of the numerous
people of rank who resorted thither to pay their respects to her,^
«ad a band of music for their diversion. This fair, in regard to
the business transacted at it, has been on the decline for half a
century past, and become rather a place of jhshionable resort than
a temporary msrt, as most of the merchandise and goods now
brought hither, are articles of luxury and fancy.
Bury has two weekly markete on Wednesday and Saturday.
They are both abundantly supplied with provisions of every kind :
but the first is &r the most considerable.
The annals of Bury record the visite of many royal and noble
personages, drawn thither by motives of piety, or by the hme and
splendor of iU monastic establishment. Besides these circum-
stances of local interest, the town and its immediate vicinity have
been the theatre of important national evente.
It has already been observed, that Bury was frequently honored
with the presence of king Edward the Confessor, who was perhaps
the most eminent of the benefactors of the convent, and some of
the fruits of whose liberality are still enjoyed by this town.
In 1 132, Henry I. returning to England after his interview at
Chartres with Pope Innocent III. was overtaken by a violent
tempest. Considering' it as a judgment of Providence for his sins.
he made in the hour of danger, a solemn vow to amend liis life, in
pursuance of which, aA soon as he had landed, he repaired to Bury
to perform his devotions at the shrine of St. Edmund.
Soon after the treaty concluded by kiug Stephen, with Henry,
Moa of the empress Maud, by whi^h the latter was acknowledged
his
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96 SUFFOLK.
Jiis uueetSBOT, Stephen's son^ Eiwtace came to Bury, and Je«
manded of the abbey and convent considerable snpplies of money
and provisions, to enable him to assert his claim to the tbrone.
On the refusal of the abbot to comply -with this requisition, the
prince ordered the granaries of the monastery to be plundered, and
many <^ the farms belonging to it to be ravaged and burned.* lu
the midst of these violent proceedings, he was seized with a fever,
and expired at Bury on St. Lawrence's day 1153, in the eighteenth
year of his age.
During the unnatural contest in vrliich Henry II. was engaged
with his sons, instigated by their mother, and aided by the king
of France, a considerable army was assembled at Bury, by Richard
de Lucy, lord chief justice ; Humphrey de Bohun, high consta-
ble ; Reginald^ earl of Cornwall, and other noblemen, to support
the cause of their rightlnl sovereign. Robert de Beaumont, earl
of Leicester, the general of the rebellious princes, having landed
with a large body of Flemings at Walton in this county, proceeded
to Framlingham Castle, where he was received by Hugh Bigod,
earl of Norfolk, who had espoused the same cause. Here he was
joined by a reinfi>roement of foreign troops ; and liter ravaging
•tiie adjacent country, he set out for Leicestershire with his Fle-^
mings, who, as we are told by an old writer, thought England
their own ; for when they came into any large plain, where they
I rested, taking one another by the hand, and leading a dance^
they would sing in their native language :
Hop, hop, Wilkioe, hop Wilkise,
England is mine and thine.
Their mirth, however, was soon converted into mourning; for
on their way they w^re met by the royal army at Fomham St.
Genoveve, irhere, on the 27th of October, 1173, a bloody engage*
ment
m A few years since an ancient leaden seal, supposed to have been hidden
doring these troubles, was dog np under the pavement of the principal aisle
of St. Edmund's church. It is conjectured fo liave been the gveat teal of
;Rsniilph earl of Chester, a lealons opponent of Stepheiu
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•UVFOUL 9f
BMt tank pbce, and teminaled in their totil Mm^ T^ thou-
wnd of their number^ according to tome wnters, were kilkjl ; but
others assert, that five thoasand were slain, and the same nnmber .
taken prisoners. Among the last, were the earl of Leicester and
his countess, with many other persons of distinction. In this
engagement, the sacred standard of St. Edmund was borne belbra
the royal army, wUch now made Bury its head quarters*
After this victory the royal general marched against the earl of
Norfolk, who withdrew to Fhmoe ; but returning soon afterwards
with an army of Flemings, he took the city of Korwieh, which ha
plundered and burned. The king, who was in Normandy, being
informed of these proceedings, hastened back to England, and
assembling his troops on all sides, ordered their rendezTona at
Bury. With this army Henry marched to chastise the earl ; and
hsring demolidied his castles at Ipswich and Walton, advanced
Awards his other places of strength at Rramlingfaam and Bnngay ;
bnt the earl, finding that any farther oppontion would be unavail-
ing, submitted to the king, and thua terminated this disgraceful
contests
In tlus reign the ^ews, who had established themselves, among
other places, in this town, when they first came into England
under William the Conqueror, were very nnmeriMB at Bury, where
they had a regular place for divine worahip, denominated the syna-
Hjsgne of Moses. In 1179, having, as it is said, murdered a boy of
this town, named S44iert» in derision of Christ's crucifixion, and com-
mitted the like ofienoes in other parts of England, they were ba-
nished the kingdom; but they probably found means to make their
peace in some places: for it appears that about ten .years afterwards,
in the second year of the reign of Richard L they had, by their
excessive usury, rendered thems^ves so odious to the nation, thai
the people rose with one accord to destroy them. Among the
rest, many of those who inhabited Bury were surprised and put to
death; and sueh as escaped by the assistance of the abbot Samp-
aon, were expelled Uie town, and never permitted to return.
King Ridiard L previoualy to his departi^ for tha Holy iMni,
VoJL XIY. H paid
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' paid a datotiMul Tint to the convent ttdftluiae of St. Ednmid^
when the abbot requested pemiMion to aeeompimy him in his tn«
tended expedition, as the bithop of Norwich had already obtained
leave to attend the king; but it was not deemed expedient that
the abbot iriionld be absent at the same time, and his petition was
conseqoei^y rejected. On the retwn of that monarch from Pales-
tine, he offered up the rich staadaid of Isaac, king of Cypras, at.
the shrine of St Edmand.
To Bury bebngs, if not in a superior, at lea^t in an efoal da*
giee with Rnnimede, the honor of that celebiated ehaiter, by
which the rights and liberties of Englishmen are secured. It is
not generally known, perhaps, that the foundation of Magna
Charta, is a charter of Henry I. whidt had lallen into oblivion
as early as the time of king John. A copy of it having lallen into
the hands of Stephen Laagton, archbishop of Canteihary, was by
|iim communicated to the principal noUea of the kuigdom, a
meeting of whom was con v^ed at Bury to deliberate on the snljeet
Upon this occasion, each of the persons present went to the high
altar of the church of St Edmund, in which ^e assembly waa
"^ held, and there swore, that if tjie king should refuse to abolish the
arbitrary Norman laws, and restore those toaoted by Edward the
Cpi^essor, they would make war upon him until he complied.
The king, on his return from Poitou in 1314, met his barons at
Buy* and with the utmost solemnity confimied 4iiis celebrated
deed.; binding himadf by a public oath to regulate his admini-
stiatiott by the grand principles whidi it established.
Henry III. paid several visits to Bury. In the y^ar 1373, ha
l^etd a parliamei|t here, and by its advice proceeded to Norwich to
punbh th^ authors of a violent insurrection against the pricH'WBd.
monks of that city. Having accomplished the olijeet of his jour-
ney, he returned to this town, where he was seized with the difr>
order, which soon afterwards terminated his reign and life.
In 1396, Edward I. held a parliament at Bury, for the purpose
of demanding an aid of the clergy and people. The former, how*
ever, fortifit^ with a papal constitution, rinsed to ooBtribute any
tiling;
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flUfFOLK. 90
lUflg; tfed eottiittttiiig im is lUi deleraiuittioii, the king seizad
.•U tlie reTCBQM of the chiar^ and ameiig the reel» oonfitcated
the geedg of the ebbet and coiiv«Etof this place, together with til
Aeir inMion» and the boroagh of Bory. Theoe diapatea laated
sptraida of two yeara^ till the clorgy were at ^ngtJk compelled to
aabnut^ and to grant the king a subsidy of one fifteenth, or, ae-
cei^diBg to aomeacoouta, one tenth, of their goods and rents.
In tilie reign of Edward II. his queen Isabella, being dissatisfied
with the condoet of the Speneeis, who were then the faronrites of
that imbecae monarch, obtained the assistanee of the prince cf
Hainanlt, and landed witii a force of S,700 men, famished by him
at Orwell haTen ; on which she marched to this town, where she
eontiniiod aaaM time to refresh her troops, and collect her adhe^
rents. It is scaraely necessary to add, that the consequence of
this Bieasure was the deposition of the misguided monarch.
Edward III. and his grandson ftichard II. also Tisited Bury,
and paid their adoratiMi at the ahrine of St Edmund. Daring
the mgn of the latter, Bory experienced the mischievous efieets
of that spirit. of rebellion which pervaded various parts of the
kingdom, bk 1381, soon after the insnrrection of the Kentish
mm under Wat Tyler, the people of Norfolk and Suffolk rose in
great numbera, and under the conduct of Jack Straw, committed
eseessive devaatatioas. Plroeeeding in a body of not less than
00,000 men to Cavendish; tiiey there plundered and burned the
4o«se of Sir J^Ande Cavendish, the lord chiefjuatioe, whom they
seized and carried to Bury ; here they struck off his head, and
placed it on the pillory.^ They then attacked the monastery.
Sir John Cambridge, the prior, endeavored to escape by flight,
but being taken and executed near Mtldenhall, his head was set
np near that of the lord chief-justice. Sir John Lakenhythe, the
keeper of the barony, shared the same &te. The insoigents then
H 2 plundered
• The mob ara supposed to have beea tl^e more exasperated agaiosl Sir
lohs, because it wubis soo wbo dispatched WatTjler is Smithfield*
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100 SVYFOUL
-plundered the abbey, earryiag off jewels to a connderaUe umanA,
and doing much mischief to the buildingB. They were, howeTCf,
soon dispersed by Henry Spencer, the martial bishop of Nor-
vich\ who meeting them at Barton Mills, with ayery inferior
Ibrce, gave them so severe a check, that they were glad to retam
to their homes.
In 1433, Henry VI. then only 13 years old, celebrated ChrisW
mas at the monastery of Bury, where he resided till the St^
George's day following. Previously to his departure, the king,
the duke of Gloucester, and several of his noble attendants, were
solemnly admitted members of the community.
In 1446 a parliament was held in this town, at which thai mo-
narch presided in person. This parliament was convened under
the influence of Cardinal de Beanlbrt^ the inveterate enemy of
Humphry, duke of Gloucester, the king's uncle, and the popular
and beloved regent of England ; and there is but too much reason
to believe, that the real purpose of this meeting was, to a^rd aa
opportunity for his destruction. Hume observes, that it assem*
bled, not at London, which was supposed to be too well affected to
the duke, but at St Edmund's Bury, where his enemies expected
him to be entirely at their mercy. Their plan was but too sucoess-
fiil ; on the second day of the sessi<ms he was arrested, all his
servants were taken from him, and his retinue sent to different pri*
sons. Preparationii were made for bringing him to a public trial ;
but his enemies, dreading the effisct of the innocence and virtues
of
* Thii prelsts wu bred to the profeision of sms, tad highly diatingtiished
himMfIt' in Italy, to the w«r» of Pope Adrito, a native of England, with the
^dulce of Milan. The popet to reward his services, conferred on him the
bistiopric of Norwich, in 157D. HaTiiig, under a Gommission from Pope
Urban VI. but against the will of the king, raised an armjr, and landed in
the Netherlands, to chastise the schbmatics of that coontry; be was deprived,
for two years, of his temporalities» to which he was^ however, restored in
1585 hy the partiament, on accoant of his emiaeot services in suppressing this
rrheiiioh.
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SUFFOLK. 101
of the good duke, as he was emphatically'styled, had recourse to
A more oertaia method of riddiag themselves of him than by im«
peachment. The morning after his apprehension, the dnke was
{build lifeless in his bed, and though an apoplexy was de-
clared to have been the cause of his death, yet all impartial per-
sons aseribed it to violence. Pitts relates, that he was smothered
with bolsters, and a traditional opinion prevails, that this atro-
city was perpetrated in an apartment of St. Savior's hospital, then
an appendage to the monastery, by William de la Pole, marquis
of Suffolk. This event happened on the2«3d, or 24th of February. -
The duke's body was oowveyed to St. Alban's and there interred.*
Another pariiament met at Bury in 1448 ; and in 1486, the town
was honored with the presence of Henry VII. in his progress
through Norfolk and Suffolk.
In 1526, an alarming insurrection of the people of Lavenham,
Uadleigh, Sudbury, and the adjacent country, was quelled by the
dukes of Norfolk and Suffolk, who met for that purpose at Bury,
whither many of the ringleaders were brought, and appeared be-
fore those noblemen in their shirts, and with halters about their
necks, when they received the royal pardon.
On the death of Edward VI. in 1553, John Dudley, duke of
Northumberland, having procured lady Jane Grey to be declared
the heir to the crown, to tiie exclusion of the princesses Mary
and Elizabeth, daughters of Henry VIII. marched with an army
into Suffolk, to suppress any attempt that niight be made to op-
pose his plans, and made Bury the rendezvous of his troops.
Here he waited for reinforcements; Mary was meanwhile pro-
claimed queen by the council, who ordered the dnke to return to
Cambridge. On the way he was deserted by most of his men,
and thus terminated this ill-judged enterprize.
Dnrii^ the reign of the fonatical Mary, Bury witnessed several
of those horrible scenes, which then disgraced various parts of
H 3 thf
• See Beautiei, Vol. VH. p. 88.
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the kiBgdom. James Abbes was bere burned for a beretie en Ibe
2cl Angnst 1555; Roger Clarke* of Mendlesfaaniy in 1656; and
Boger Bernard, Adam Forster, and Robert Lawson, on tbe 9Mk
June, the same year. In like manner, Jobn Co<^e, Robert M iles»
Ale '.ander Lane, and James Asbley, saffered for tbe same eanse,
sbortly before tbe queen's last illness ; and Pbilip Homphiey,
and John and Henry David, brothera, were bere brought to tbo
stake only a fortnight attterkw to Mary's death.
Queen Elizabeth, in her journey through NoiMk and Suiolk*
in 1578, paid a visit to this town, where she arriyed on tbe 7tk
of August, as appears from (he register of St. James's parish in
Bury.
Daring the reign of her sueeessor, this town was visited by u
most destructive calamity. This event is thus recorded by Stow,
'< In the year 1606, April 11, being Monday, the quarter-sessions
was held at St Edmund's Bury, and by negligence, an out malt*
house was set on fire ; from whence, in a most strange and sudden
manner, through fierce winds, tbe 6n came to the ferihest side of
the town, and as it went left some streets and houses safe and un-
touched. The flame Jew clean over many houses, and did great
spoil to many fair buildings iarthest ofif; and ceased not till it had
consumed one hundred and sixty dwdling bonses, besides others;
and in damage of wares and household stuff to the full value of
sixty thousand pounds." To this accident, however terrible and
distressful in itself are probably owing the present beauty and re-
gularity of the streets, most of which are now seen inteisecting
each otiier at right angles. King James, who was a great bene-
ftetor to the town, contributed vast quantities of timber toward re-
building it
The next reign was marked by a visitation still more drsudftd
than the preceding. In 1636, the plague raged here with such
violence, and so depopulated the town, that the grass grew in the
streets. Four handled femilies lay sick of that distemper at the
same time, and were maintained at the public charge^ which is
said to have amounted to 2001. a week.
In
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• III tke ITlh cefttory, wkeii the exanpfe of our W6ik, thongk
\eu&ai, laam I. htA excited the popvkur seal againsl the imgi-
m^cnme^ wHehenft, Bury whihiled some iiUMiiai8grao€6il in**
tfta^eea of the effect of this penecvtiiig egmi. In 1644 o«a
Matthew Hopkins of ManmnglTee in Essex, who styled himself
Witch-finder general^ and had twenty shillings allowed him for
every town he visited, was with some others commissioned hy
parliament in 1644, and the two following years, to perfiurm a cir-
cnit for the discovery of witches. By virtue of this commission^
they went finom place to place, through many parts of Essex,
Snfblk, Norfolk, and Huntingdonshire, and caused sixteen per-
sons to he hanged at Yarmouth, forty at Bury, and others in diflfer*
eat partsof the country, to the amount of sixty persoiui. It is to
this circumstance that Butler allndea in hia Hudihraa, when he
makes his hero say:
Hm not this present parli«iiienl»
A ledger to the devil sent.
Folly empowered to treet aboot
ymdiog revolted witefaes oat ?
And kas he not within one year,
Haag'd Aree score of them in a shire ?
Fart II. CaalD 3.
Among the victims, sacrificed hy tins wretch, and la9 a^podalea,
were doubilesa Mr. Lawes, an innocent, aged clergyman, of Branr^
detton, a cooper and his wife, and fifteen other women, who were
all condemned and executed at one time at Bury.
Hopkins used many arts to ^tort confession from suspected
persona, and when these feiled, he had recourse to swimming them,
whidi was done hy tyingtheif thuodbs and great toes together,and
then thvewiDgtliem into the water. Ifthey floated they were gtilty
oCtheeritte of witchcraft, but their sinking waa a proof of their iuf
Boeenoe, This method he pursued, till some gentlemen, indigo
nant at his barbarity, tied hia .own thumbs and toes, aa be had
H4 «»eii
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104 KUFfOtlL
been accpitomed to tie those of other penona, tnd irhen put fa«
to the water, he himeelf swam, as mahy had done beidre hiok
By this expedient the oonntry was soon cleared of him^ and this
aireumstaaee also is aUuded to by Hadibras, who^ qiaakiBg of
Hopkins^ says:
Who after^ pMv«d bimMlf a witch.
And made a rod for hit own breech.
In this town also occurred about the year 1660, the ladicrona
cjrenmstance adverted to by Butler^ in the following lines :
Bid not a certain tadj whip
Of late her hasbaod*i own iordahip ^
And thoogh a grandee of the heoMr ^
Claw'd him with Amdameotal blows;
Ty'd him stark naked to a bed-poit«
And fiogg*d his hide as if sh'bad rid post.
Fart II, Canto L
The erime, for which the nnfortunato nobleman received thia
discipline from his tormagant spouse, was, his having shewn an
inclination to forsake the cause of Cromwell. This treatment,
however, made him so sensible of his halt, that he humbly ssked
pardon, and promised to behave better in future ; and for this sa«
lutary exercise of her influence^ the lady had thanks given her in
open court.
Bury witnessed anoHier execution for witehcraft^ on the 17tfi
March, 1664, when two poor widows^ whose only guilt probably
consisted, either in the deformity of their bodies, or the weakness
of their understandings, were tried before that learned and upright
judge. Sir Matthew Hale, and sentenced to die. This extraordinary
trial was published, as an appeal to the world, by Sir Matthew,
who, so for from being satisfied with the evidence, was extremely
doubtful concerning it, and jNrooeeded with such extreme caution,
that he forbore to sum it up, leaving the matter to the jury, with
a prayer to God, to direct their hearts in so important an aft
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gVtVOVL 100
Tto-tUMjr and toim of Bury, haTe produced many men ditliii*
gttldied fotleamiag and piety. Anoi^ these may be mentioned,
Jami 0£ NonvoLD, ^ho being ednealed here, irai at length
diooen abbot; and ^ent to Rome to be eoatened in that dignity
by the pope. He irrote mnch on other eabjects, but was princi^
pally oenoerned in the great contForeny between Robert Grostesl^
*aad Pope Innocent lY. None of hie ^writinga are now ex.tant»
but his Anmais of England. He died, and was interred in his
monastery^ in 1280.
John Eyersdbn, a monk, Mteelledin the belles lettres, and
ivas eonaidered a good poet and orator, and a luthM historian.
He wrote soTeial things which acquired eonaiderahle celebrity,
a]iddiedinl896.
RooEn, snmamed the Compntiat, was remarkable for his mo-
nastic virtaes, and extraordinary learning. In his more advanced
age he was chosai prior, after which, he wrote An Exptmtwncf
aU tl^ difficult w^rdsthrongh the Bible; Cmnments onthe Gos*
pdi, and other works. He flourished about 1960.
BorroN of Buet, was a native of this town, and a monk in
the monastery here. ' He trarelied over almost all England, to
inspect the libraries, and compiled an alphabetical catalogue of
all the books which they contained. To render the work the more
complete, he gave a conciae account of each author's life, and
the opiniona of the most learned men of his time respecting his
writings, noting in what place and library, each book was to
befouuL He also wrote the following woiks: Of the original
Pragreis mnd Sneeeti of Religumt Orders, and other Monastic
ealqffairs; A Catalogue of Eccletia$tical writers ; The Mir- ^
ror of Canoentuali, and State of his own Monastery, besideB
other books. He flourished in 1410.
EiiiniNi) BnoMFiciJ), was a man of such erudition, that le-
land is of opinion, that in this respect, none of the monks of
tfiis monastery ever surpassed him. He is said to have gone
Jhioogh his studies in England, and then to have repaired to
j^me, where he displayed such abilities, that he was chosen pro-
fessor
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Ml svnm*.
f, and styled by tlie doctm there^'^Coiuii Faktine of the 9iu<r
?enity. He waa appointed bishop of UuiAtM by-tlie pope, ii|
1989 ; and dying in ld91« was istttied in hisoim oatkediaL
Of all the inhabitaHia of thia BMOaat^, nooe waa peifaapa
more cdebrated ia hia tiiae, than Jobn Lyimate, called, the
jmnIb afBmry, net aa Cibber eoBJeetorea, beeanae he waa analiTe
of tUatewn, for he waa bon about the year 1380, a* the Tillage
of L^dgate in tUa oonnty. Having atndied at an English uni«
Tersity, he trayelled into France and Italy, where he AOfniied n
eompeteot knowledge of thelangnage of thoee eountrtes, and on hia
retns, opened asdieol in London. At what tiaie he retired to the
cemrentattBnry, ianncertain, aa iaakathepenedof hia death;
though it is known that he was living in 1446« He is charae*
tenzed by Pitto, aa an ekgant poet, a penaaaiTe Aetorieian, an
expert awtJuMnatieian, an aevte philooephcr, and a MenUe ^
Tuie. Gonaidering the age in which he lived, Lydgale waa really
a good poet ; hia kngnage ia inaeh leaa obsolete than Chaneer'a^
and his Tersificatien for more httmonioiis. Among an ineiedible
nnnber of poema and translations, a caftalogne of which maj be
ftnnd in Tanner, he was the anther of the following pieoea:
The lifo and Mar^om of St Edmnnd, king of the East
Angles.^
The Lifo of St Fremnnd, eonain to St Edmund.
APoem, coneeraing the Banner and Standard of St EdnMiiid.
A Balkd Royal of Iwrocation to St Edmend, at the instenee
of king Henry VI.
Lydgate also tsanskted into verse^ Boecaeeio's Latin work m
ten books, entitled De Caribui Vir^rum et FamkManm Bhu^
irimau It was firom the French venien, by Lawence^ an ecd^
* Strutt, in his Royml and Ecclesiastical Antiquities, has given a plate, re-
presenting William Curtis, abbot of Bury, presenting to king Henry VI. a
book translated out of Latin by John Lydgite, a monk there, containing the
life of Edmnndi king of the East Angles, which Hemy receive^ mied oa
his throne.
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SWfOLX. 109
Miti^ Oil Ljrdgttte'0 poen, vhkli ^miitB of only une iKMks^
VM eompoMd. In the eailiett editMii» printed in London, -mUk^
•at dme, H b tiiw entitled: The TragedUi gmthered iy «Mki
Bodkas, tf MC& prmces a feU /ram theyr HUaes tknmgl Ae
mmimUUtk vf fbrtrnm; mmee ik^ creation ^ Adam vmHi Aft
Hme, 4rc« Traoiiaied mta Engluk, hy Johm I^fdgaie, maaki
of Bury.
Wm to«b in tiie ahWy chorcb, destroyed with many othen ni
the diwdntion^ it MidtohnTehadthiainaeriptiim:
H$ttmm9mdo, mpaiit tapanteft
fik 0att L^dgM tnmolatiii urna.
Qui liiit ^ondam oelebrit Britanns
Fama Poeais.
nhfeh hat been thnt quaintly rendered:
Dead in the world jet living in ihe aly^
Intombed in thia ora doth Ljdgate licj
In former timet fam'd for hu poetry.
All over England.
RlCBAis VB AmeBnvTLE, better known by thenaAe ^ Do
Bary, froBB tUt hit nalivoplaet, waa bom in 1281, and ednccted a*
the aniTeiaity of Ox&nL On finjahlag hia studies, he enteced
into the o<der of Bonedietinet, and beeane tolor to the prinee of
Walea^ aHefwwds king Edward III. On hit pupil's acceasion to
the throne, he waa tet appointed cefierer, aftebwards treasurer of
tihe wardrobe, ardwfcacon of Northaiiptott, prebendary of Linoob,
Sonun^ and Iidiliel4 keeper of the priry seal, dean of Wells, and
lastly, was prosMtod to the see of Dnrham. He likewtae hdd the
oAcea of lord higk-ehaacellor and treasurer ; and discharged two
important embassies s* the comt of Franee. Learned himself^ he
wu a paikron of learning, and eoivesponded with some of the
9ealcsi geniuses of the age^ particnlaily with the celebrated Pe--
tmck The pnUie library whidi he fcnnded at Oxford, tm the
aptt where now stands Trinity College, waa a noble instance of
9 his
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» • •
» • •
106 SOYFOtK.
Uft muaifieenoe. This establishment continiled- tid the g^itMl
dinoiution of the monasteries by Henry YIII. when the books
were dispersed into different repositories. This prelate likewise
wrote a book, entitled Ph^biblos, for the r^gidation of his libra*
ry ; and a M.S. copy of j this performance is still preserred in that
Cottottian ooUection. He died at the manor of Auckland, April
24, 1345, and was inteired at Durham.
Stephen Gardiner, who is said to have been thehataralson
of Richard Woodvill, brother to Elisabeth, the qneen of Edward
IV. was bom at Bnry in 1483, and educated at Trinity-hall, Cam*
bridge. On leaving the nniyersity, he was taken into the fiunily
of Cardinal W<Aaej, by whom he was recommended to Henry VIIl.
and from this time he rose with rapid steps to the first dignities
both in the church and state. His talents were confessedly great;
and it cannot be denied that he exerted them with zeal in pn>r
moting the views of his benefactor. He had a considerable share
in effecting the king's^ divorce from Catharine of Anragon ; ha
assisted him in throwing off the papal yoke ; he himself abjured
the pope's supremacy ; and wrote a book in behalf of the king,
entitled : J}e vera et falsa obedientia. For these services he was
dievaled to the see of Winchester ; but opposing the Reformation
in the succeeding reign, he was thrown into prison, where he
eontinTOd several yeara, t^l Queen Mary, on her accession to the
throne, not onlj released him, and restored him to his bishopridL,
but also invested him with ihe office of lord high*ohancenor.
Being now in foct entrusted with the chief direction of a&irs,"
he employed his power in some cases for the most salutary ends ;
ami in others abused it to the most pemictbus purposes. Hedrew
up the marriage articles between QUeen Mary and Philip II. of
Spain, with the strictest regard to the interests of England. He
opposed, but in vain, the coming of Cardimil Pole into the king-
dom. He preserved inviolate the privileges of the university^
of Cambridge, of which he was chancellor, and defeated every
acheme for. extending the royal prerogative beyond its due limits.-'
It must be acknowledged, however, tb«t he had a principal sharp
6 U
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SVTFOLX. 109 1
in TMondling ilie English wa&ti to the see of Rome ; and what
JteHxed a miieh finder 8taia.u|M>tt faia memory^ that he was deeply
implicated in the crael peraecntion carried on against the Protes-
tants ; ihongh his guiH in this respect is fiur from being so great
as 18 commonly imagined^ Bonner, bishop of London, having
been the chief aathor of Ihoae barbarities. Preriously to his death
which happened on NoTcmber 13, 1565, he is said to have mani-
Seated the deepest remorse for this part of his conduct, and to have
frequency exclaimed: Errwmi cum Petro, $ed noh fievi cum
Petiro, Besides the book above metttioaed, he wrote a retraction
•f that wwfc, seyeral sermons^ and other treatises; and is sup-
posed .to have been the author of ne nec€$$ary Doctrine and
ErudUkm of a CArif ftofi, a piece commonly ascribed to Henry
WiLUAM Claogbtt, an eminent divine of the seventeenth
century, was bom in this town in 1646, and educated at Cam-
l^^e. His first station in the church was that of minister in
this his native . place; and he died in March, 1686, lecturer of
9t. Michael Baasiahaw, London, and chi4>lain in ordinary to hia
mi||eaty. He .was author of a great number of theological tracts :
and fimr volumes of s^mons published after his death.
Nicholas, brother of this divine, was also bom at Bury in
1654, and educated at Cambridge, where he took his d^ee of
D.D; 17M. He was preacher of 8t Mary's in this town, and
rector of Hitdmm. He died in 1727. His son, Nicholas, became
bislM^ of Exeter. .
iomr Battblt, D. D. was bom at Bury in 1647, and edu-
cated at Trinity College, Cambridge. He became chaplain to
archbishop Sancroft, who gave him the rectory of Adisham, in
Kenty and the archdeaconry of Canterbury. He was the autiior
of a brief account in lAtin of the Antiquities of St Edmund's
Bury^ and died in 1706.
Babuow was, in the ninth of Edward I. the lordship and estate
of the countess of Gloucester ; but afterwards became the property
#f ffaitholomew lord Badlesmere, who, espousing the cause of the
earl
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110 nvnovL
earl of LftBcasler, and tlia odwr diaooatentedlMrais
Edward II. was taken prisoner at BerangMbri^ in Yatkahiie,
and hanged at Blean near CanierWry, in 132d. Hia eatatobeing ,
conaeqnently Ibrfeited, waa giTen by the king to hia fivrorite,
Hngb de Spenaer, who eigoyed it till the aoeoaaion of Edwaid IIL
when it was restored to Giles lord Bndleanwre, son of te Ibmer
proprietor. His son, Bartholonew, died possessed of it in the 19th .
of Edward III. leaving hisfsnr aislera hb heiia. On the division
of his estates among them, this manor fell to Ae lot of Margaret^
wife of John de Jibetot Bobert, their aon, died, aeiied of thk
manor ferty-sixth of Edward III. lenting three danghtem bin
heirs, bnt to which of them it caaM we an not infcmed. The
rains of the seat belonging to theae femiliea, alittle to the sooth-
ward of the ehorch, beapeak it to have been anoblo slniciure. In
the church is the monnment of sir Clement Higham, Ae kit Ro-
man Catholic speaker of the hoose of commona in the time of
Queen Mary. '' Her^ Iso,'' obaerroa Mr. Ckmgfa,* '« the tnm^
pike road from Bury to Newmarkets is nnfertanately for therepooe
of some brave warriors, earned thiongh a tunnlos or barrow, in
which hunan bones may at any time with very litdo tnmble bo
discovered."
The Rev. Dr. Philip Frnocis, the translatar of Hoiaee, waa lec-
tor of this parish. The late rector, the Rev. George Ashby, waa
an indnstrions antiqnaiy, and poaMasod conaiderable ooUectioai,
principally relative to this county. On his death in 1806, they
were disposed of by Mr. Deck, a bookseller at Bary, and are now
distribnted in varioos hands.
FoENHAM All Saints, is the lordship of sir Thomaa Rook-
wood Gage, Bart ont of ianda in this parish, Penelope, ooon*
tesa Rivers, gave a rent dmige of eight poonda per annum,
,^mt a sermon againat popery might be preached fenr limea n
year at Bury. This lady had the siogalar ferfame to many
in auocession thiee genttmnen who had been her suitors at the
timet, but had children only by her second husband, sir
John
•CMMienII,16f.
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0IVFOLK. Ill
Min G«gf» tf FSrfe, in Ssmk. She left iiie estate of Hengrave
l9 her eeeoad iion^ Edwaid. In this pviih is. the maniion of
Near this village a balde is said to hare been fought by Edward,
mm of king Alfred^ vith Ethelwald, his nncle's son, over whom
be gained a eaniplete Tietory.
Pawbtbd, in Donesday-book Halbstbd, k situated between
ijbnt and four mflea sonth-west of Bniy. The bounds of this
paijsh pass timmgh the north and south doors of the church of the
adjacent village of Howton, so that the perambidating cavalcada
ffooeedathnragh thai eiiftee in ila course. On the bounds to the
south-west stood sone yeais stnoe a majestic tree, ealled the gospel
oak, beneatti which the clergynMA used to stop in the annual per-
ambulations, and repeat some prayer proper for the occasion. The
parish is estoaatad in Domesday-book to contain thirteen caru-
ca^s, or laeo acres, but the real quantity is dOOO.
Wo learn from Domesday-hook timt a church existed at Haw-
pled at the period of the oompibtion, but of tiie time in which
the preasnt t^mrch was built, there are no authentic records; the
arohitoctue, ho^psver, bespeaks it to have been erected in the
beginning of the aixteenth century. It is constructed of free-stone
and ffinits, bfoken into smooth fiices, which, by the contrast of
their ccIoib, produce a veiy good elfect. The porches, buttresses,
SBd cfinbattlod parapoto, aie, in general, the most labored parts,
the tinto not only being mixed with the free-stone, but beanti-
tiftlly inlaid in a variety of patterns. Of this inlaying, the lower
piurt of the steefde exhibits specimens of conriderable elegance, in
mnllelSy quatrefiiib, interlaced triangles, &c. The walls, for
idbont two' foot above tiie ground, are of fr«e-stone, and project all
loand in the manner of a buttress, like those of Windsor Castle,
a circumstance unusual in a country church. The steeple is square,
and sixty-three feet high* The chancel is of a different age, and
inferior style, its walls being composed of rough flinta, plastered
over. TUl the year 1780, the roof of this edifice was of thatch,
which was then exchanged for tiles.
The
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lis SUFFOLK.
The diareli eonsbto of a body or nave, only fifty^gkt leet hag,
tventy-nine mde, and about thirty-six to the kigfaert point oT
the Toof^ the braees and principak of whieh are canred ; aad of
the latter^ every other ia aapported by an angel. These angels,
ftowerer, have been deprived of their heada and wingsw This
■Mitibtion ivas probably performed by order of Mr. William Dow-^
sing^ of Btratlbrd, in this ooonty, who made his circuit for tho
purpose of efiectiag this puritanical reformatiim in the years 1643
and 1644, deaboying such images and inscriptions in churches aa
were; deemed superstitious^ to the extreme regret of the antiquary
and lover of the arts. On the upper edge of the' font are still to
be seen the remains of the frste&inga by which the cover was lor*
merly locked down for fear of sorcery.^
The chancel ia thirty-three feet and a half by eighteen, and
twenty-four feet high. The ceiling is covered and plaistered,
and divided into compartmoits by mouldings of wood, adorned
with antique heads and foliage. All the windows have been hand-
MBiely painted; several coats of arms of the Dmrys and Cloptona
still remain^ aa alaa some headless figures of saints and angekk
The deatniction ol the faces of superstitious images was often a
sacrifice thai satisfied Cromwell's ecclesiastical visitors. The
chmckand chancel are divided by a wooden screen of Gotide
w<Nrk* On this screen, denominated the rood loft, stiD hanigs a
selio of Roman Catholic times. Thia ia one of the small bidls
which are supposed to have been rung at particular parts of divine
service, aa at the consecration and elevation of thai host, whence
they are called tacring, that ia, oonsecrating bella, to rouse the
attention of such of the congregation whose situation would not
permit them well to see what was transacting at the high altar.
These bells are now very rurdy seen } and the antiior of the His-
tory
*Tiie constitution of Edmmid» in 1$36> enjoins— Foniei btfUnuJa tuh
werra eUnui tentantur propter tortikgia. How long this custom continued w«
ctnnot determine ; bat a lock wai bought for tbe font in Brockdiih chorcl^
Korfolk, so lete as 15S3.
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SVfFOLK. 113
iory of Bawsted expranes hie sarprize that this shonld haTo-
escaped all the refsrmations which the church has experienced.
In the steeple are three belh^ on the smallest of which is this
iaacription, in the old English character :
Etemis annis rejtonet campana Joamm,
Of the sepulchral monnments contained in this church, some of
the most remarkable shall be briefly noticed.
Witliin an arched recess in the middle of the north wall of the
chancel, and nearly level with the pavemeoti lies a cross-legged
figure of stone. The late sir James Bnirough, in the Appendix
to Magna Britasmia* asserts, that it is for one of the family
of Fitz-Eustace, who were lords of this place, in the reigns of
Henry III. and Edward I. and there can be no doubt that it is
coeval with the chancel, which is of that age. It^is a handsome
monument, the arch being elegantly sculptured with foliage, and
a Gothic turret rising firom the head and feet, eonnected by a bat*
tl«nent at top.
Not less ancient probably than the preceding, is a flat slab of
Sussex marble, seven feet long, on which no vestige of an in-
seription remains. Sir John CuUum conjectures it to have been
for an ecclesiastic, and observes, that stones of this shape wera
freqaently the lids of coffins sank no lower than theivown depth ia
the earth.
In the middle of the church towards the east is another flat slab
of Sussex marble, which, by its escotcheons in brus, appears to
cover the remains of Roger Drury, esq. who died in 1500.
On a flat stone close to the steps leading to the communion
table is t|ie portrait of a lady in brass^ in a head-dress of the &-
shioa of Hanry the Seventh's reign» triangular at t^, withlong
depaadiag lappets. Ather girdle are aoapended her bag or puna,
and also her beada. FVom the escutcheons on the stone, it appears
to commemorate Ursula, fourth daughter of Sir Robert Drury^
who married Giles, son of Sir Giles Allington.
Vol. XIV. I Oa
• V»l. V. p. 340.
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114' SUFFOLK.
Od the top of an altar-monument of Sussex marble, in the touA-
eaiit corner of the church, is (he portrait in brass of a knight in
armour betw(*rn his two wives, about two feet high. His hair is
clipped short; his whiskers and parted beard are long; his ar-
mour is flourished with some difierent metal, with large protube-
rances at the shoulders ; at his ueck and wrists are similar narrow
rufis or ruffles; and his toes are very broad. The ladies are ha-
biteil both alike, though one of them died forty years before her
husband ; and the other survived him, as is represented by her
eyes being open whilst those of the other are closed.*
The following epitaph, in the black-letter character, on a brass
plate, may, by comparison, serve to ascertain the date of similar
figures that have lost their inscriptions :
Here lyeth clothed now in earth, Syr Wjllm Drnry, knygbt,
Soch one ai wbylest he lyyed here, was loved of erery wyght ;
Such temperance he did retayne, rach prudent cortesy.
Such noble mynde, with ja»tice joynd, such lyberality ;
As fame itself shall sound for me, the glory of his name.
Much better than this metall mute, can ay pronounce the same.
The IcYenih of frosty Janyver, the yerc of Christ, I fynd,
A thousand fyve hundred fyfty seven, his vital tbryd ontwin'd
Who yet doth ly ve, and shall do styll, in hearts of them yt knew hyn,
Ood graant the alyppei of such a ttok, in vertaes to ensne liim.t
Beneath
• On this impropriety Sir John Cullum makes the following observationi
illustrative of the fashions of those days. " Tbe liairhad now (1557) been
dressed for some time In a much less forced and unnatural fashion, parted in
the middle, and gracing each temple. The cap, now become of a moderate
ttse, had assumed a not melegant curve in firont, and was embellished with
a fillet ; th^ mantle or upper garment haa roand hanging sleeves reaching to
the ground ; the ruSs at the neck and wrists are the same as the man's ; as are
also the broad toes and protuberances at the shoulders. The beads had quit-
ted tbe girdle, and given place to the Bible, which hung by a ribbon almost
as low as the feet"
f The family of the Drary*s, which long fionrished at this place, produced
many penons distinguished in their tine, hat the noet celebrated, was Sit
Vraiian
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00ITOLK. 115
Beneath the two ladies, are figures of seventeen children, with
their names.
In the chancel, is a fine marble bust of Sir William Dmry, in
armour. He was elected one of the knights of the shire in 1585,
and in ld6d, was killed in a duel in France. His corpse was
brought to England, and interred here.
In the south-east comer of the chancel, is a mural monument
lo tbe memory of the lady, of whom Dr. Donne says.
Her pore and eloquent blood
Spoke in her cheeks, and so distinctly wrought.
That one might almost say her body thooght.
It consists of a basement about 3 feet high, on which, under an
ornamental arch, lies the figure of a young female, as large as
life, with her head reclining on her left hand. Her mantle is
drawn close about her neck, and edged with a small ruff; her
12 hair
William Dniiy, tbe grandson of him (or whom the aboye epitaph was
composed; of whom Foller observes, that as his name, in tbe Saxon lan-
guage, signi6es a pearl, so he might fitly be compared to one for precious-
ness, being hardy, innocent, and valiant. His youth be passed in the French
wart, hb matnrer years in Scotland, and his old age in Ireland. In tbe mi-
nority of king James I. when the French had gained possessicm of Edinburgh
castle he was knight marshail of Berwick, and being sent by queen Elisa^
beth to reduce the castle, be ably fulfilled that commission, and in a few days,
restored it to the rightful owner. In 1575^ he was appointed lord president of
tbe province of Monster in Ireland, and proceeding thiiher with a competent
iince, eieeoted impartial justice in spite of all opposition. When he entered '
•pon his tiStce, the earl of Desmond disputed h» right to interfere in regard'
to the county of Kerry, pretending, that it was a palatinate belonging to
himself, and exempt from English jurisdictioa. Mot terrified by the menaces
of the earl. Sir William entered Kany to enforce the authority of his so«
vereign, and returned in safety, with no more than 150 men, through 700
of Desmond's adherenu, who sought to surprise him. In 1578 he was ftworn
lord justice of Ireland, and was proceeding to reduce Desmond, when be
was aeiied with a mortal distemper, which put an end to bis Ufe the same'
yearatWaterford.
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116 SUFFOLK.
hair, is dressed in many smi^i apd short corU, vitboiit qfi|i or ^her
covering. Above is an emblematical female personage^ surEoun4ed
with a glory, and scattering flowers on the fgnre below : g^ each
side of the basement sits a greyhound, the cognizance of the £^
mily . This is a very pleasing monument of painted alabaster, a^^
well executed. The long Latin inscription, on a Uaqk marble ta*
hlet, is supposed to be from the pen of Bx. Donne.
The lady to whose memcfy this monument was etected, wff
Elizabeth, the younger, and only surviving daughter, of Sir Ro*
bert Drury. She died in 1610, at the eady age of 15. Tradition
reports, that her death was the eonse^uence of a box on the ear,
given her by her &tlier. This absurd story, is supposed to have
originated from her being represented, both on her monument,
and in a picture of her, still extant, reclining her head on one
hand. Another tradition relating to her is, that she was destined
for the wife of prince Henry, eldest son of James I. She was
certainly a great heiress, and their ages were not unsuitable, but
it may reasonably be doubted, whether there is more truth in thiv
story than in the other. So much is certain, that Dr. Donne de-
termined to celebrate the anniversary of her death, in an elegy,
as long as he lived ; but we have nothing beyond the second an-
niversary. The truth seems to be, that his panegyric was so
profusely lavished in two essays, a» to be qaile exhausted. Some
of the lines have been noticed in the forty-first nuoihev ef the
Spectator, where they are erroneously said to relate to DonneV
mistress, instead of the departed daughter of his friend.
Opposite to the monument of this young kdy, is a noble murat
monument in honour of her father. Sir Robert Drury. It con-
sists of a basement, on which is a sarcophagus of black marble,
beneath a double arch^ supported by Corinthian pillars. Ov^
the arch, in a marble firame, is a most spirited bust in armour, a»
large as life, representing Sir Robert; who before he was out of
mourning for his father, attended the earl of Essex to the unsuc->
sessful siege of Rohan, in 1691, where he was knighted at the
early age of 16. The Latin epitaph, recording his merits, is as-
6 eribed
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ntnoLM. 117
«ri1i8d tD Ihe pen of Dr. &oane, who was bo HbdnUly patronised
by faim, flMi to whom he aaftigtted aputmeattf in hit maiuion ill
Driity Lane. This monunent w&s executed^ at the oxpence
of Sir Roberf £1 widow, by Nicholao Stone^ who had given
io ine a i^ecittiea of his abilities^ in the tomb of her father
and motiier, in Redgrave church. On two small pannels in the
bttMOlent^ are mmptions in Latin and SngKsh, on Dorothy^ ano-
ther daughter of Sir Robert^ who died at the age of fonr yeara.
The ktter is aa follows:
Sbe little^ promis'd nncfh,
TootooQ entitie;
Sbe onlj dreamt fbe liv'd
And then she d^*'de.
A large moral monument, contigaous to that of Elizabeth Dmry,
consists^ like the last, of a sarcophagns on a basement, over which
IB a lofty entablature, supported by two square (luted pillars, of
the Ionic order, and surmounted by a large escutcheon, of the arms
«nd crest. The whole is made of a white, hard plaster, painted
of a dark grey color, and ornamented with gilding and flowers.
It is the work of an Italian ; for, by the accounts of the steward
of Hawsted Hall, it appears, that in 1675, three sums of 51'.
were advanced '* to the Italian, on account of the monument/'
It is a heavy peribimance. A tablet over the sarcophagus, hao
an inscriptioB in goU lettoEB,-iB honor of Sir Thomaa Gul*
fattn,Bart.*
13 Yariooib
^ Tliit gentlf iDUi^ wbo purcbtted the manor of Hawsted, which has ever
•toee CDBtmned in his descendants, belonjjged to a family long seated in the
eevaty. Being a joanger son, be was pat to bosiness in London, and be^
«aMi«avery snceessfol draper to Oracechnrch street. He married a daugh-
ter af Uf« Niebolas Crispe,-who died in the prime of life, leaving bim tbo
iifher of a nnneroiis oflbpring. lit. Callan was one of the sberift of Lon^
4ltm in 1646, and in August 1647, was, with the lord-mayor and seTeial
oth«i^
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IIS SVFFOLK.
Varioiu other monamento of the Colliiiii hmlj are to be femrf
in this churchy aad among the rest, one in memory of Aiine^
daughter of John lord Berkley, of Stratton, and wife of Sir Dad*
ley Galium, Bart, who died in 1709, in her 44th year.
Of the rectors of this parish, may be mentioned Joseph Hall,
A. M. who was presented to it, in 1601, by Sir Robert Drary. He
was afterwards bishop of Exeter and Norwich, and wdl known
for his learned and pious writings, as well as for his snffmnga.
The last rector was Sir John CuUum, M. A. fellow of Catharine
Hall, Cambridge, who was presented to the living by his &ther*
It was this gentleman, who wrote and published the History and
Antiquities of Hawsted, in which he gives the following account
of himself:—" He was horn 21 June 1733, and educated at Bury
School, whence he went to Catharine Hall, Cambridge, of which;
after having taken the degrees of batchelor, and master of arts,
he was elected fellow, 7 Dec. 1759. In March, 1774, he became
a member of the Society of Antiquaries ; in December that year.
Was instituted to the living of Great Thurlow, in this county ; in
March 1775, was elected a fellow of the Royal Society; and in
this
ethers, committed to the Tower for high treaBon, that is, for having been coa*
eerned i» some commotions in the city in favor of the king. In 1656 he
made hts purchase in this place, to which he retired from the hurry of busi-
ness and pubfic life. Very soon after the Rettonition he was created a baronet;
which mark of royal favor, Uigetber with the cause of his former inpriMmaient,
night have been expected to secure him from all apprehension of danger : bat
whether it were that he had temporised a little during some period of the in-
terregnum, or that money was to be squeezed from the opulent by every possi-
ble contrivance/ he received a pardon under the great seal, dated l7Jnly,166t,
for all treasons «nd rebellions, with all their concomiumt enormities, bj him
committed, before the S9tb of the preceding December. From this general
pardon were excepted some crimes, as burglaries, perjoriea, forgeries, and
aeveral others^ among which is mentioned witchcraft. He died 6 April 16^«
at the advanced age of 78. In a street in London which still bears his name,
he possessed considerable property^ and just escaped witaetaiDg itt destiactiom
by the dreadful conflagration in 1666^
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SUFFOLK. lid
thu year, 1784^ is innocently, at least, amusing bimself, in com^
piling the history, such as it is, of his native place/'
Hawsted was given, during the reign of Edward the Confessop
to the abbot and convent of Bury, and was involved in the onor-
■loaa grant of that monarch to the monastery, of the royalties of
all the villages in eight and a half contiguous hundreds. Lands
were afterwards granted in this parish, by the abbot, to different
persons ; and in process of time, a family took its name from the
place. In the reign of king Stephen, we find, that Ralph de
Halstede, and Roger his brother, afforded the abbot an opportunity
of canryii^a point of great consequence against the crown. The
story is thus rehited, in the manuscript catalogue of the lands,
liberties, &c. belonging to the abbey of St Edmund at Bury, de-
scribed by Tanner.* William Martell, the king's sewer, attended
by many prelates, barons, and others ; and sitting in his seat of
justice in the bishop's garden, at Norwich ; two courtiers, Jordan
de Boflseville, and Richard de Waldan, produced a young man^
named Herbert, who was ready to prove to the court> that he
served Robert Pitz-Gilbert in the army, when the king led his
forces against Bedford, at that time in possession of his enemies ;
attdthat Robert, and Adam de Homingsherth, had discourse with
Ralph de Halstede, and Roger, his brother, (who had come pri*
vately out of the town, and changed their horses, shields, and
saddles,) 'about betraying and murdering the king. They there*
iote demanded, in the king's name, that the cause might be heard,
and justice done. Upon this, Ording the abbot, who was pre-
sent, stood up and hmrangned the court, informing them, that the
accused brothers were within the liberty of St. Edmund, and
therefore amenable only to him. This privilege was discussed at
lai^; and the abbot established his claim, by the determination
•f the court, and confirmation of the king.
The earliest ^incipal lords of the village, specified as such in
the records, are the fomily of Eustace, or Fitz-fustace. It be-
1 4 longed
•KotMonatt. 506.
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IM SUFFOLK.
Imiged afterwards to the Cloptona, by wIhwi it was sold, ar nAa
exchanged, in ld04, to the Dniry fiunily, for the manors of He»>
sted and Blomstons, in this county, and one thousand marka. Sir
Robart, the last male heir of this distinguished house, left tiuraa
sisters, to one of whom, married to Sir William Wray, the^estate
at Hawsted deyolved. By the widow of this lady's only sor-
Tiving son. Sir Christopher, it was disposed of, in 1656, to Tho-
mas Callum esq. for 17,697L on which the interest of the Dnnyi
ceased here, after a continuance of 190 years. In the descendants
of that gentleman, who was afterwards created a baronet, this
n&anor has continued ever since, the present losd being Sir Tbo«
mas Gery Cullum, bark of Bury St. Bdmund's.
Hawsted House, or Place, is supposed to have been rebuilt, or
at least, thoroughly repaired, by Sir William Drury, in Ike mgii
of queen Elizabeth. It is situated on an eminence and the
whole fotnted a quadrangle, 202 by 211 feet within : bat part of
it has been taken down, not from decay, but because it had be*
eome useless. This mansion afibrded no bad specimen of the
akiU of former artists, in regard to durability. The walb were
chiefly built of timber and plaster; the latter, in the fronts being
thickly stuck with fragments of glass, which made a brilliant ap-
pearance in the sun-shine, and even by moon-ligbt Much t>f It
still remains, and appears to have been little injured by more than
two centuries. It might be worth while, to attempt to recover
the receipt for making this excellent composition ; all tiiat we
know respecting it at present is, that it contains a conaiderabla
quantity of hair, and was made of csarse sand, aboundiiig witk
stones almost as large as horse-beans. The house itself contains
nothing remarkable. It formed a quadrangle, inclosing an area 58
feet square, and was detached from the other buildings by a wide
moat, surrounded by a terrace, and besides the i^Mrtments found
in the houses of gentlemen of the present day, it had its smoldBg-
room, 8^-room, and chapeL Contiguous to one of tiie cham**
bers was a wainscoted closet about seven feet square, fitted up, as
it is conjectnred, for the last lady Dmry. It was probably de-
signed
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MPfftfUU
121
tigntti, at fint, l&r aa omlDrj, tad fion Hm panncb iMTiag beei
iwiiitnid intb TBriottt aodenew^ eaUenfty and anttoa, it iraa
c«|M tli€ painted doMit These fHuatiBga, wlikli are weU exa-
seated, have been reiMrred Id a sanll apartaeai in Hardwick
Heine, near Bary, which is likewise the property of the Callnai
On the porehei are ttill extant, in etone, the arma of Dnny»
«nd thaee of Staflbrd of Gialloa, to wbtch hmiHy belonged the
Uy of Sir Williani Drury, who ncoeeded ta Uie aetata oa the
teth of hie graadfiitiier, in 16A7. Between theae povehee alaada
« atone figure Off Hercnlee,* aa it waa denominated, holding in one
liandra elabacaoae Uie ahe^der% the other reating on one hip.
Tim Igore fameily diecharged, by the nataral paaaage, into a
«anred -atone baaon, a continual ttream of water, aupplied by
leaden pipes front a pond at the i^tanoe of near half a mile.
From the date preaerred on the pedestal, this was probably one ef
the embeUishmenta beatowed open thia place, againat the Tiait
with which it waa honored by qneen Elizabeth in her progreaa,
in l<S78.t She rode in the morning from Sir William Cordell'a, at
Melford, and dined with one of the Drorya, at Lawahail HaH,
abovtfive milea from Hawsted.^ In the erening she came to
Hawated,
• It ba»becn loggwted, tbtt tfab vnoMtb figere, notwithttnidiiif itt ap-
psUalioii, »i^ be dengDadl ai rapfcfaat amel j a wiM ntBt or twrsfv, at it
liM no attfihote of Hercalet bat the dob, aod alJ tbe Umbi are covered with
Hatk hair. It bears a great reieadilaoce to tbe arnt of the extinet noble
family of Berkeley^ of Strattoo, and tboae of Lord Wodebooie. Bcmbrt
4tLhagio,juU come oat of the woods, with an oaken plant in hit band, ovcf*
grown with most and Itj, was one of the personages tbat addressed qaeen
EUnbetbatber famoos entertainment at Kenilworth Castle. CuUtm's Baw
tUi, p. 131.
f ** JIbdera timet," observes Sir John Callam, «' wmrfd scarcely deirisa
each a piece of tcolptore at an amoting tpectacle for a virgia prtncest."—
Tbe figue in qaettiao, baa hitely been fciHlered lets offsotive to the ejft of
•lodesty.
iTbisnsitisthQi recorded in tbe register of that parish, under the ycsar
15ir8:
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12S SVFFOLK.
Hawstod, and the apartme&t which she oeeapied ever after ra»
taiaed her name. Tradition reports, that she droppisd a silver*
handled fva into the moat. It was probably on this oocasiott^
that her majesty bestowed the honor of knighthood on the master
<tf this mansion.
In this parish is also a good mansion, called Hawsted Farm,
the residence of Christopher Metcalf, Esq. It was almost rehailt
in 1783, by that gentleman, of the white brick made at Woolpit.
Hardwick House, ih the property of the Cullnm iunily, the
estate upon which it stands being indissoluUy united to their
manor of Hawsted. It is situated upon the very line that divides
the open and woodland country, and commands a pleasing view of
Bnry and its neighboarhood, above which it is considerably ele^
▼ated. This estate appears to have been given, by king ftephen,
to the abbey of Bury, and continued in the hands of the monka
till the dissolutton. Tradition reports, that it was the abbot's
dairy, and that the principal mansion was his occasional resi^
dence. No part of the present building, however, is of any oon«
aiderable antiquity, except a spacious chimney, under ground ; so
that no idea can now be formed, of what its ancient grandeur may
have been. It was purchased, in 1610, by Sir Robert Drury,
and in the following year, annexed for ever to the manor of Haw-
sted.
Sir John Cullum* mentions a singular custom, which, within
a few yean, he saw twice practised in the garden of Hardwick
House, namely, tiiat of drawing a child through a cleft tree.
'* For this purpose/' says that gentleman, " a young ash was
each time selected, and split longitudinally about five feet. The
fissure was kept open by my gardener, while the friends of the
child,
15*78: " It !• to be remembered that the queeo's highnesse, m her progresse,
riding from Melford to Bury, 5o Aag. Tegineque>S!0 aimoqne d'ni predicto,
dined at LawshaU Hall, to Che great rejoicing of the said parivb and county
thereaboott."
* Histk and Antiq. of Bawited, p, tS3.
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SUFFOLK. 1^
«UU^ haTing fint stripped him naked, passed bim twice tfarougli
it^ always head foremost. As soon as the open^oA was per-
fttmed^ the woaaded tree was bound up with packthread ; and as
the bark healed, the child was to recover. The first of these
young patients was to be cured of the rickets, the second of a
ruptore. About the former I had no opportunity of making en-
quiry, but I frequently saw the father of the latter, who assured
me, that his child, without any other assistance, gradually
mended, and at last grew perfectly welL*
. Hard wick Heath has for some years been fiunousfor one of the
finest flocks of sheqi in the county, though consisting of no more
than dOO. They are homed, and have black faces and legs«
This was one of the three flodu, in the environs of Bury, that
Ibimerly belonged to the abbot
Sir Robert Dnry, who died in 1615, founded an alms-honse at
Haidwick, for six poor unmarried women, with a yearly revenue
of 61, each; two of them to be taken from the town of Bury, one
frem HawBled, one from Whepsted, one from Brockley, and one
from Ghadburgh and Reed, alternately.
. HsNeRAYB, belonged in the reign of Edward I. to Edmund do
Hsngrave, a celebrated lawyer; and in 1375, to Thomas Hethe.
In 1 Richard III. the manor was granted to Henry Lord Grey, of
Codttoure, but afterwards devolved to the crown, of which it was
purchased, in the . reign of Henry VIII. by Sir Thomas Kitson,
who built the fine old haU, and made it the family seat. He was
SQooeeded by his son Thomas, who dying in 1602, the estate de-
volved,
* Dr. Bodate* in bis antiquitieB of Cornwall, mentioiia a timiUr cuttom prac-
tiaad in that part of the island. There i», he mjs, in the parish of Marden, a
stone with a bole in it, 14 inches in diameter, tfaroogh which he was informed,
by an intelligent neighboring farmer, many persons had crept, for pains in their
backs and limbs ; and that fanciful parents, at ceitain times of the year,
are accnstomed to draw their children tbroagli, to core them of the rickets.
It is not a little cnrioos, that the eastern and western extremities of the king-
dom* should coincide in this siognlar oufym$ the spirit of wbicb seems to bo
deduced from the remotest antiqaity.
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134 svypou.
ToUeA, by inanta||e> to Themu IM Dtfcy, wiidM stfeoilj
danghter married Sir John Gage^ of Fiiie, SuMes, and tiMweoji*
Teyed Hengrave to a new fiunily. la July l<i63; Bdmvd
Gage, Esq. of Uiia place waa created a baronet; he bad five «f vea^
and died in 1707^ aged 90^ and fimn him the title aad fropevly
have been tranamitted to Sir Thottiaa, the preaent potaesaor.
Hengrave Hail is an admirable eisample of the fine old maii»
aiona with which this country abonnda. The dale ^ its ef«ctioB
ia fixed by the following inscription in three compartiMBta^ cut la
the stone^ on the outside of the ciirioua oriel window over the en-
trance^ OPUS HOC FIERI FECIT TOMA KVTSON. — IH DiSU fiTMOft
DROIT-^AMNO D^vi iiccccc TEicfisiifO ocTATo. This iaacrip*-
tion rwa round a fillet bisneath ike bow iHndoir^ and the aeoond
division of it is under the royal anna. This laanaioti aiMaaH
oniqne speoimen of ancient doaneitic arohitectnre. The whole ia
of brick and alone, '^ the gateway/' obaervea Mr. Goog^i^ ia <€
sach singular beanty, and in slwh high pMwnrvatiaii, that pei^
hapaa more elegant specimen of the alfehiteMaie of thai age call
scarcely be seen/'* It waa onee^ more extensive than at prfesent>
several idterationa having been made> and some parts at the north,
and north-east angle taken away in 1775. The buiUiag, which
ia stiti large, incloses a qoadrangalar eowt, and the ^^tnents
^fen into a gallery, the windows of which overiook this cdurCi
They formerly oontained a qoantity of stained glass, and the
bay-window in the hall, still retaina sesK fine specimens, eon«
sistittg of varioua amwrial bearings. This window is albo very
ipkadid for its glazing, muUions, ftm-traoery, pendant and span-
drik, all of which nearly resemble the highly florid example in
Henry VUth'a ehapeL Theform of the tnnreta wk each side of the
entrance, and at the comers of the building, as also of the two
small tnrreted columns at the door, bear a striking resemblance
to Moorish minarets, or the cupolas of Indian edifices.f
Soma
• GoQgb't OtBden, Vol. II. p. tSS.
tInBrittoB't JrchUtehiMlAMUptliUi me two -ntm of tbii fiat old bhhi»
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flTfVOW. 19ft
So«Ke ymm m^, this auMisioii was die ikbode of % tuAerbood
•f expatrii^ nuns, of Bnngeti, to wh^ tiio owner of Hongrave,
vlio w himaolf .of tho Ronan Catholic pereu«9ioo, liberaUy af-
fn^od an Mf luio. During their reBidoioe here, they lort, hy
death, their avfierior^ a linaJ deiwendani of the great Sir Thor
maiM Move. When the d^ecee in ftiTor of emignuits was isaaed in
FxaAce^ they availed theraadves qf the penoMsiaa to retom to
iheir owa ocmatiy. A domeatie eha^el, fitted mp in oae of the
angles of the building, and provided with an organ, still renaina
il^Vi) ia tibe state ia whieK they kft it.
Very aetr the Hall, stands a onall chnrch, whii^ is diaftiit^
faished hy one of the ancient ronnd towers, thai; seem to be pe-
oidiar to this portion of the kkigdoBi. No use appears to have
heea made of this edifiee for many years, the rectory having bees
coittolidatipd wkh Flempton, Of the moauments within it, the
principal are those of the Kitson's, John Boaehier, earl of Bath»
who mtmed into the fiunily; his son, John Lord Fitzwarre8»
Thomas son of earl Riirers, aad severid of the Gages.
There is a fine marble tomb, in memory of Sir Thomas Kitson,
the foaod^ ef Qeiignive Hajl, .with effigies of himself and one of
bis wives; b«t it is ratter singular, that in the inscription a
blai^ is left for the name and parentage of his first wife. This
gentleman, who came irom the obscure village of Yealland, in
Lancashire, having obtained immense wealth by commercial spe-
culations in the cloth-trade, received the honour of knighthood.
lie parchased the manor oi Hengravo firom the crown, and possess-
ed several other estates in Soffolk, Devonshire, Dorsetshire, and
the city of London, for which he served the office of sheriff. He
was afterwards appointed by the duke of Norfolk, steward of the
franchise of Bury St Edmund's, and died Sep. 13. 1540, age4
HOBNINOSHERTH,
lioa, oae repressnting iIm whole of the south front, »nd Ihe other the central
eoapartmeDt, with th« enlrtnce, end also s a'<'U"4'PlA° ^ ^* building pre*
'vieof to the aiteretieut msde in 1775.
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126 SUFFOUL
HoRNiNGSHERTH, commonly called HoRRivraB, ionnerly
had two parish churches, distinguished hy the names of Hor-
ningsherth Magna, and Ptfva : hut the latter is quite demolished,
the parishes haring heen eoosolidated in 1548. They formerly
belonged to the abbey of Bury. Little Homingsherth Hall, was
one of the pleasure-houses of the abbot, where, above a century
after the dissolution, his arms, together with those of Edmund
the Confessor, were to be seen carved and painted in the great
chamber.
IcKWORTH formerly belonged to the abbey of Bury, by tha
gift of Theodred, bishop of London. The whole parish is now
converted into a pariL, in which stands the seat of the noble fa*
mily of Hervey, who acquired this estate by marriage with thai
of Drury. John Hervey, was in 1703 created, by queen Anne*
a peer of the realm, by the title of baron Hervey of Idcwcnrth,*
and in 1714, was invested by George I. with the more honorable
title of earl of Bristol. Frederic Wifliam, who succeeded his la^
ther in 1803, is the present, and fifth earl.
Ickworthpark may vie with any in the kingdom, being deven
miles in circumference, and containing 1800 acres. The old man-
sion of the noble proprietor is not remarkable ; but not far from it
stands
* " As for titles of h<Nior," stys Sumh, Dodiess of Marlboroagb, " I never
was concerned in making any peer bat ene, and that was, my lord Hervey/
the present earl of Briiitol. I bad made a promise to Sir Thomas Felton»
-when the queen firtt came to the crown, that if her majesty should ever make
any new lords, I would certainly use my interest, that Mr. Uervey should bo
one. And accordingly, though I was retired into the country, under the most
sensible affliction for the death of my only son, yet when the queen had re-
solved to roake'foor peers, I had such a regard to my word, that I wrote to
Lord Marlborough and Lord Godolphin, that if they did not endeavor to get
Mr. Hervey made a peer, I neither would nor could shew my face any more."
In the Cmrt of Great Britain, this nobleman is characterited, as " a great
sportMnan, and a lover of horse-malcbes and plays. Ue always made a good
figure in the Jloube of Gommons, is aealous for the laws and liberties of the-
people ; a handsome man m his person, fair complesioo, middle stalore."
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OTFFOLK. 127
standi a new bailding, planned upon a Tery extenBire scale^ by
the late earl, who was also Inshop of Derry, for the purpose of
depositing in it the various works of art which he had collected,
daring a long residence in the classic regions of Italy. It was in«
tended to be composed of a circular building in the centre, con-
nected with the wings by a colonnade on each side. The accom*
plishment oi this plan was frustrated, however, by the circum*
stance of the earl's collections felling into the hands of the French
in 17d8, on which occasion he was himself confined by the repub-
licans in the castle of Milan. This event seems to have occasbned
the earl to abandon his design of returning to England, and he con*
tinaed to reside in Italy, till his death, in 1803. With a caprice
for which many members of his family have been remarkable,* ha
is said to have left to strangers all his personal property, includ*
ing such collections as he had made in the last years of his life.
Various encumbrances prevented his successor from completing his
&ther'8 plan, and he even seriously deliberated on the propriety
of pulling down the shell of this new building, and selling the ma-
terials ; but these, it was found on ei^uunination, would scarcely
reimburse the expense of their removal. From the immense sum
that would be required to finish this structure, it is not improbable
that the hand of time will be suffsred to reduce it to a ruin.
This edifice, which fronts the south, and stands a little to the
west of the old mansion, is built of what is denominated Roman
bride, and was begun about the year 1795. The centre, which
IS nearly circular, is 140 feet high ; the cupola that crowns it is
90 feet in its largest diameter, and 80 in the smallest It is
adorned with a series of Ionic columns, between the windows of
the lower apartments, and Corintiiian pillars between those of the
principal floor. Over the windows of the latter are basso relievos,
representing subfects taken from the Iliad. Above the entrance is
seen Alexander presenting to his father the celebrated ' horse Bu-
eephalns, whom he alone could subdue, and on cither side a scene
from the Olympic games. All these are are at present covered
with boards, to protect them from the inclemency of the weather
f and
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I2ft mpFouc
wtatcm iDJmy. Orer the wfaidowf of the tint ftoiy is aaeCber
•et of biMo relief 08 nnoovered, conewtiog of the foUowiBg eob*
jecii from the Odyseey >— Penelope weaviog^— Mentor and To-
lemachns proceedings in quest of Ulyeeee—The sacriiice— Pene-
lope dreaming of her haahaad's retmn^-Mercury perraading Oa»
lypm to release Ulyaaea— ^His ahipwreck — Ulyssea aayed Inm
the wiedc by Leoeothoe— The harpiea— •Peneli^ cairying the
how of Ulyvaea to the suiton-— The hero deatroytng Uiem~PeBe-
lope recognizing her huaband—MeroBry oondaetiag the ghosts of
the sttitora to Styx.~Ulyflaea oondading a treaty with the chaed
of Ithaca.
The interior of this edifiee exhibits a mere aheU witii a kind
of open wooden staircaae to aaeend to the roof^ which oommanda
a beanUfal and esitanaive view of the adjacent coontry^ The en-
pola ia crowned with a circnlar railing, within which the rhta»
neya rise in a single stack, in anch a manner as not to be Tisihle
on the oatside of the building. The intended drawing and ^aing
room, the only apartments bonnded by an interior wall» are eadi
dO feet in length, hot from the nattnre of the bnilding, of aneqnal
breadth*
The wings, and the galleries connecting them with the edifice
in the centre, have been mn np to the height of only three orfonr
feet. The left wing was deaigned fer an assembly room, and that
en the right, to contain a gallery of statnea on the gronnd-floor,
and of pictures above ; and in both, provision has been made fer
a circakir reservoir fer water. The length of each colonnade and
wing is (K> yards, and that of the whole bailding, from one extre-
mity to the other, 600 feet.
The designs for tins edifice, were famished by ItaUaa artists^
and sent ever from Italy, and the constmcliett of no maeh ef it
as has been erected, was saperintended by Mr. Sandys. The scnlp-
tares are the workaMmahip of two brothers, named Carvalho, also
nativea of Italy, and are modelled after the celebrated deaigns of
flaxman. The total expense already iaconred amonnla to near
da/)001.
We
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ftiiniii BMNMJ nas diMoveved at Ickworth.
' R18BV UTemmkMe for notUig bat tiie form of thd steeple e#
ita.clM0ch, wtteh kebig io«iid,.ia eenjectared to be of Duiiiil'
erection.
Saxham Magna, belonged, with the advowson of the church,
to Bury abbey, and wm gnoited^ 33 Henry Vlli. to Bir Richard
Long and his wife, ft bielonged, for several descents, to the
family of Eidied, one of ivhom, John, mentioned below, built the
house, long known by the name of Nutmeg Hall, in the reign of
James L In 1^1, his son. Revet Eldred, was created a baronet.
In this fomily the estate continued, till about 1750, when it was
purchased by Hutohinson Jtee, Esq. who greatly improved and
embellished his domains. The old house was accidentally burned
down in 1779, and a new one erected north-west of it, from a plan
of Mr. Adam. This is now the residence and property of Tho«
mas'Mills, Esq.
At the upper end of the chancel on the soutfaHstde is a bust
as large as life, of painted (rtctte, aot badly eB«e»ted, and un-
denieath this inscription :
Memorift Mcnim,
John Eldred.
Hew Bsckiogbam m Mbrf^ was bit fim being ; in Babilon he ipent aoms
put 9i bit tiina; and tlitt rait«f bit tarUfly pSgriinage bee tpeot In London
tnd WM alderauuKMf that faiMiBt dltio.
Hit Age
.}■
His Death ^^^^'^
Tb« Holy Land so called I have seene.
And in the land of Babilon have beene ;
Bat in yt. land where gioriont saints doe live.
My sonl doth crave of Christ a roome to give ;
And there with holy angells halilajabs sing
With joyfol toyce to God our heavenly king.
Noc^Milent bntia tbse O Lord.
Under ths bust is a raised aoMnent> withaUaclK jM4e; m
Vol. XIV. K tha
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ISD ftDFVOLK.'
the top, rtry nettly lAlaid, in hoM, m tha fifim of » min i
two feet long, ^ith a ni£^ and furred gown, ivell OBgnTon ; wMi tlu»
arms of Eldred, Rerett, city of LoiidoB, East India, Turkey, and
Bossia companies. At bis ieet, on three kaas plates is the fel*:
lowing inscriptioii:
CorriciiliiiB vitB p«iegr^ meicmdo ptngi,
JEgjptfom atqiic Anbet, Sjfwqse viient i.
Eximis rednci et merita catere oornmb
Natl, diYitis, pereime nomen.
J^eliz graodanu morior ; longitsima qnamrb
Sit yite YU-^terminos lepiilcbnjili.
Might all ny tfsveb mc exeum
For being dcade and lying here ;
Or if my riches well to lue
For life to death might me endeare ;
I had mj fate or quite outgone.
Or porehas'd death's compaiiion.
Bst riehet can no ransom buy,
Nor tratrells paase Uie deatiay.
i
Revettas Eldred, Arm. filios et heres mestisnoras
Defancti hoc monamentum posoit Septembrii 7o. Aoi Domini ItSL
Of the voyage of this trayeller to Tripoli in Syria, and his joqr-
ney thence to Babylon in 15S3, an account is giten in Hacklnyfs
Collection.* It was his son RoYett Eldred, who was created a ba-
ronet, as mentioned above, and who seems to have thonght that he
conld not do too much for tbe memory of his &ther in the mona«
mental way. He nUurried Anne Blackwell, and died without
issue. On a board suspended in the church, reciting the chari«
ties
• Vol. II. p. S68— In the Arch^oUgia, Vol. XV. is an tngraTing of a pot»
trait of an old man» with a raf, a ahoi t beard, and wlifokers, supposed to ro-
preaent this gentleauni. The original was broogfat, with two other curious old
paiotiogf, U9Vki)lifUh the seat of ths EldndiMuly in Ewei.
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SVFFOLK. Idl
ties left to ilM fsuk, wlhift inseriptioii :— '^ By UAy Aim El*
drad, June 6th, 1671, lOOL"
At Saxbam Pakta ims foranriy the seAt of the kaSty of Lu-
eae, «id aftervuds <^ that of Crofts. The latter long floafished
here in high r^nte; aeyeral indiTidnak hehmging to it receitod
the honor of knighthood ; and one <tf them. Sir Thomas Crofts,'
was, 36 Elizabeth, highniheriff of this county. His grandson,
William, haying been brought np from his youth at court, was
appointed captain itt the guard to Henrietta, queen of Charlea
I. gentleman of the horse to the duke of York, and gentleman of
the bed-chamber to Charles II. He wa4 a great sofierer by his
adherence to the Stuart £unily, whose confidence he ei^oyed, and
was at length sent ambassador to Poland, in which capacity his ser-
vices were so highly yalned, that Charles II. during his exile at
Bmsaels, advanced him to the dignity of a peer of the realm,
by the title of Lord Crofts of Saxhanu Dying in 1677 without
male issue, the title became extinct. In the chancel of the church
is an elegant altar monument of marble to the memory of this no-
bleman ; and ahother close beside it for his lady, who died in
•1672. He is represented in a recnmbent posture, in his robes»
with a fiowing wig in the &shion of the times ; and the lady is
seen upon her monument in the same attitude. Several, other
individuals of that fiunily ale interred in this part of the church,
where they had also a vault, which has lately been walled up. The
east window contains various coats of arms of the family in painted
glass , but a considerable quantity put up hy the &ther of Colondl
Rushbrodk« has been removed by him to Rushbrook-Hall. Thi^
diurch is remarkable for one of those round towers, ascribed to the
Danes, fifty-six feet high, and fifty-nine in circumfiurence. The
upper part of this tower is embattled, and beautifully ornamented
with window frames. The mansion-house, to which lord Crofts
had added a grand. apartment for the reception of Charles II.- was
of brid^ and probd>ly built in the reign of Henry MI. It was
pttQed down in 1771, when it appeared as sound as at its first
erection. The painted-glass in the church was removed thither
K« from
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4tem iSdseiitce. The eMts w sUil t«stM it .Rkliflid CMk%.
Esq. of Herling, Norfolk.
The ikuMTflf WvtP8TEiDi;te«9d {Mrtof llwtMMitioM 4/the
aUeyafBary; ndLafterthftdnMlMidavwiagkiAleilSlAHeity
VIIL to 6ir WiUiHi Dhicy. H fau meo p«i*d iMi^ miimi
and iftiiow the proporty •fUi^oi CUcM HsbommI^ wii4
I St FlniostMhhall^ is this parislk It it ui old kreg^kat
Wldfag, io the ityle of mniy etf the wcoiKl-nte nuMUoos of this.
-cdvaAy, end has heen rep^iied aod modernized bjr tbo
.The ohneh eft thie pkee fanaerlf hod a i^iie ifOB the tleeple^
.which w.Uewn down by the high vind «t Olii^r GronnrcU'i-
death; m mialwthat of Dalhain in the handled el BiMdge.
HUNDRED OF RiSBBIDGfi.
This bmdied it beanded 00 the ettt hy the hvndreda of Baheif ,
Tfaiiigoe, flod Locklbid; on the weA by Caabtidgeihite; en the
^oiith by the mer Stoar which porta it fimai Eawx; and on Ihh
noiA by LsoklML It eontaiaa two aMriut-towno^ Chxe and
HaveihilL
Clabb^ lenacrly a plaee of conKiderable note, is seated on ^
Stoar, and eontaiaa aboat dOO hoases, and 2e00 inhabitanU. It
hasa weeUy market on FHdaya, and two annnal frirs, onEastar*
Toflsday, and Jnly 26. The houses aie in geacrai mean, and the
-streets broad, bat ai^^aved. On the north side of it stnds an
nncieni hoaae, whieh atliacts attention, from its ornaments oon>
•ieting ehisfly ef araiorial bearings and foliage, bnt so dcfrced
with whitewash, that it is impossible exactly to ascertain the
Hgnres. The front of a hoase near the market, exhiUts, in basso
aelievo, the figure of a swan listened to a tree, with agold diai&.
4ionieiactis doabtless intended to be commemorated by this piece
^f antlqaity, which has recently been renewed and beaotified.
€f the once edebraSed castle of Clare, on the sooth side of the
tewa,.
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i|0( iliM<yr i» gis^94ei>r la ««(y of tlie fj^^al inaii«ipii> ia the kiiig-
dopi. Tto site ^ the nf )^le ft^^c^op, whi^h may be distinctly
tac^, fCMJbHW ebovi^ t>r^9|iy fkcres^ ovee surrounded by v«ler,
«id #?iifed into »n outer imd inner bnyley, the latter daij erer
bdofttl wiHi 0 viJl. Od jtbe auinmit of a steep hill, itboat one
bniAied f^ lagh, 0f no gveal^ circttip»ferefiee at Ibe bttse, and |iro-
baUy .of artificial ^of Uen, at^nda fk frogsoieut of the keep, vhioh,
befcreihe nseaf fiiie-arsDs^ mjevat ba¥e been a pboe of gimt itreogth.
A nnnrov palb !ViP^Uf^ ro^ Hm^ bill leads to HAu lelk of
antifsily, wbidi, ouTKoimde4 mik yerdnre, fpnaa a pictnres^e
otf eot It «ppean to b^ve b^^ of a circular form frithin ; but
tke eiclm«r w$a a polygon, with bottreases at tbo aagka : tbere
am Ibree of iJkeafi bjattressea in the part yet remainjbDg; A frag-
mfi^ of tbe waU, built, lijk/^ the ke^, wHh a cf mpqaiAon of mortar *
and flints, nins down the bill idoAg tb9 north aide of the area of
the castle ; and a small portion is still standing on the opposile
«de. Sacb is upw all tbst n^iisJiPB to attest tbt ^istonee of tte
SMgl^ifiec^ cafitie df d^r^
S^poding the first foamdntion of this oastle, we find nothing
a«tbentie. Seated ctt the fro»ti« of the kingdom of the East*
Angles, pai fi^ae to the borders of that' of Essex, the most pro«
baUe c^jjecluTje is, that it was erected during the beptarchy.
No moRtiim, howerer, is mad^ of it in history till near two centn-
ries sfter tjie vi^on of the petty sorereignlies in the person of
Egbert. At libis time, and during the reigns of Canute, Hardi.
caattke, and Edward, Aluric, a» eeri, tbe son of Withgar, was im
possession of it, and in the begumiiig of the tooth century fo«nd«
ed in the castle the cjbvch of BU Jolm the Baptist, in «!hich "ho
placed seven prd)ends. At the peiidd of the Norman con^neat,
Clare was one of the nbiety'^five lordships in this county assigned
by William to lua kinsman Richard Fitz-Gilbert, to whose assist-»
anoe he was materially indebted for his victory at Hastings.
From this place he was sometimes denominated Richard de Clar^
though he more usually went by the name of Tonebruge, from
1L3 his
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134 BfTFFOLK.
bit retidenee in thtt toim now called Tnnftridge. He left Ms
Engltsh estatee to his ion Gilbert, who likewiie made Tonebroge
his Mftt; and wko by a deed bearing date 1090, tested at the
cattle called Clare^ gave to the Monks of Bec^ in Normandy, the
church of St John Baptist aboTe-mentioned, with the prebends
belonging to it, to be disposed of to their sole and proper benefit^
as often as they should happen to be void. This nobleman was
created earl of Pembroke by king Stephen ; and on his deafli in
the fourteenth year of that king's reign, was succeeded by his
son the- celebrated Richard Strongbow, the first English adven-
turer who wont to Ireland for the purpose of redncing that coun-
try. Dying wifliout male issue in the new possessions which he
had acquired by the sword, his estates in England derolTed to his
uncle Richard, who is thought to have been the first of the fiunily
dignified with the title of Earl of Clare. By him the moito of
the castle here were translated to the church of St. ^uguttine at
Stoke.
The fourth in descent from this Richard was Gilbert, sumamed
the Red, who having obtained a divorce from his first wife, Alice
de March, daughter of Guy, earl of Angonleme, married Joan of
Acres, daughter of king Edward I. By this princess, who sur-
vived him, he had his son and successor, Gilbert, who dying with-
out male issue, the honour of Clare became extinct, but his estate
was divided among his three sisters. One of these ladies, Eliza-
beth, married to John de Burgh, son andkeir to the earl of Ulster
in Ireland, is more particularly memorable for having rebuilt and
endowed University-Hall, in Cambridge^ and given it the name
of dare-Hali, which it stm retains.*
The honour of Chire now lay dormant finr some years, during
which John de Hausted held the castle for his life. On his de-
cease, Lionel, thmi son of king Edward III. being then lieutenant
of Ireland, was, in the thirty-sixth year of that king's reign, cre-
ated duke of Clarence. He married Elizabeth, only daughter of
William de Burgh, eari of Ulster, who died tto years afterwards,
leaving
• See Beautiei, Vol. p. 36,
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St7JF70LK. i9&
taiTiif Urn one daughter, Philippay -who was his sole heir. By
iMrnitfriige to Edmund Mortimer, earl of March, the lordship of
Clare was carried into his &mily. His son, on coming of age ia
14l05» foond the castle in good repair, and amply stocked with rich
finitare: hot on his death, without issue, in the eighth year of
Heary YL it deiTolTed on Richard duke of York. On the accession
of his son Edward to the throne, these possessions hecame vested,
and remained in the crown during his reign, and those of his sue*
cesson. By act of parliament, 11 Henry YII. they were con-
toned to the king, and so continued till 6 Edward YI. when
they were granted, with other estates in Essex and Suffolk^ to
Sir John Cheefce, hut were resumed by tiie crown in the first
year of Queen Mary's reign. The castle and lordship of Clare
afterwards came into the possessiim of Sir Gerrase Elwes, of Stoke
College, Bart in whose heirs they still remain.
After the death of Lionel, son of Edward III. the honor ot
dare, or Clarenoe, lay dormant till 13 Henry lY. when Tho*
mas, second son of that king, having previously been consti-
tuted high-sleward, and admiral of England^ lieutenant of Ire-
land, and captain of Calais, was created duke of Clarence. He
served with great distinction in the English army in France
under his brother king Henry Y. but at length besieging Beau'^
fart, and hearing that the Dauphin was adyancing, he marched
with a small party to meet him, and fell in the engagement, leav-
ing no legitimate issue, on which the title again became dormant
it was once more revived by Edward lY. soon after his corona-
tion, in &vor of his next brother George. He was the same year
' constituted lieutenant of Ireland ; and for the better support of his
dignity, obtained a grant of the estates of the earl of Northum-
berland, forfeited by his attainder. Notwithstanding these favors,
he joined the party tof NeviUe, earl of Warwick, who^ on account
of some pique against Edward, undertook to seat Henry YI. again
upon the throne ; and who, to bind the duke of Clarence still more
firmly to his eaxm, gave him his eldest daughter in marriage.
Of a disposition that seema to have been naturally perfidious, he
K4 9oon
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I
i *
\
SM>a aluuidoned Warvick^ and retomiqf Id Ut WoUmt^ i|f|iM«l
him to defeat the «iil mi Barnet He 'was aIm one af tii^aewlM
init to death ihe youag priace Edward, soa ef {t^ary VI. ant
Jieir to the CFown ia ihe LaacaatriaB Uae. Th^ lung, hamMi^
coDceiyii^ aome jeaku^ of his brother, ooofiaed himia tW ToirfV>
where, an it was genendiy beiieTedj h^ was dffpwied in a WU sf
Malmsey wine. By the earl of Warwick'^ daogbler, ha kift .a
son, Edwardy who, in her right, became aari of Warwick ; ba|t hii
&ther being attainted 4a the next parliament af^er his death, the
title became a thiid time extinct. The dukedom bavipg thus
escheated to the kiag, he aiade the herald, properly belangui|^
to it, a king at anns» and gave him the appallatioa of CUarapoiepx^
His office is to marshal and .amnge the funerals of the baconat^
and all gentry bebw that rank, on the soath ind# of the Treaty
whence he is sometimes called Surr(nf^ in contradistinctioB tt
Norroy.
The honor of Clare was not revived till 22 Jam^s I. when Sir
John HoUis, of Houghton, in Nottinghamshire, who hai^ bsea
previously created lord Houghton, was alevated la the dignity
of earl of Clare. In 1688, John, his great grandson, sac?
ceeded to the earldom. He married Margaret, third dai^ph-
ter of Henry Cavendish, di^e of Newcastle ; and on the death
of his father-in-ilaw without male issue, he was, in ppnsidor^ioa
of his services in contributing to seat William III. on the throne^
created by him marquis of Chure and duke of Newcastle. Ha was
accounted the richest English peer of his time; but having no
male issue, he left the bulk of his landed possessions to Thoam*
HoUis Pelham, son of his youngest aster Grace, whom king
George I. successively invested with the titles borne by his ande;
which again became extinct with that fiunily daring the saoQeed*
ing reign. At length in 1789, his present miyesty, George ill.
conferred the dukedom of Clarence oa his third son, prince WUt
liam Henry.
Near the rains of the castle stands Clare^riory, fonnerly a
monastery of canons regular pf St. Augustine, founded in J84&
by
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SITFrOLX. 137
hyTtiAwd dr Glares eart of Qtonoester, fiQiii irlmn ieBnaaieS
dw Horlimm» ckHs of Bfarch, aai l&e royal konae <if York, aa
18 vefeled In the peAgToe af Jgaa of A€re8^ daaghter of Edward
I. and infe of Gilbert do Chate, earl &( Gloucester, ia a poeai iav
waMA ia Votwr'a nwend HoaaaMnte.* Tkh hoaae being an
aiim priory, and a cell to dhe abbey of Bee, araa orada indigeaovv
by kiag Bkiiaad IL in Hie nineteenlh year of faia raign^ and by
Uai gwen aa a eeH to fit Peter's bX Weatminater. Richttd de
Vibre, earl of fiertfosd, gave to tfaia iwuae <8ie henaitage of 8tan^
dflne^ that divine aerriae angbi be there ealebrated for him sad
tna. TUa, aiid aevenl other donaliona and iOidowmenta^ by mri-
•at bencfiuxliiay vere oonfinied hy the archbish^ of Canterbary
9mi te pope. It vaa granted ai Henry VIII. to Richard
Rrieadl; and a part of the bnildinga haa nearly ever since thtt
time been aeoD^ied aa a dwdling. They have been recently
rqiaiied; bat retain, with the name, afl the appearance of their
original deatbation. The priory was lately the property of Wii*
liaa Shrive, esq. who had it finm the Barkers, to whom it haa
In thediareh belonging to this priory, which is now converted
intoaimm, was buried Joan of Acres. .She was theaecoad daagh«
ler of king Edward I. by queen Eleanor, and was born, in the first
yeiu' of her fidiier's reign, in the Holy Land, at Ptolemaifi, more
eoBulionly called Acres, and celebrated in modem history by the
name of Acre. She waa married at the age of eighteen to Gilbert
de Clare, eari of Gloucester; after whose death she gave her hand
to Balj^ de M onthermer, who had been servant to the earl. She
died in iier aumor of Clare in May 10, 1305, in the first year of
Edwaid
* The origoAl of this piace is preserved on a roll of parchment in the old
EogUsh character^ with the followiog title :-*" This dialogebetwix a secalar
askyng and a frere answering at the grave of dame^ohan of Acris, shewith
the lineal descent of the lordis of the honoore of Clare from the tyme
of tlie fnndation of the freeris in the same hononre, the yere of oar Lord
MCCXLVia unto the first of May, the yere MCCCCLX." To the Englisb
foH iranneied another of the same aa Latin.
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US S0FFOLK«
Edwari n. wii», villi motl of tlMBnglithBoUlily, tttmMher
teenL Uae mm tbo nterred the body of Bdwaid^ her ddert
iMi, by Ralph de M anthcnKr, who, ganiag the fe?erof Ihekiog,
vas created eul ef CHooeeHer tnd Hertfud.
liMwlp dvke el Claienoe, and eari of Ulaler ia Irriaad, tfaiid
ton ef kiBg Bdvaid III. waa Ukewiae haried in the chaaeel oC the
ehiureh hdonging to thia prioty» together with Ua fini wile Eli*
aabelh, daughter aad heireaa of WiUiam de Bargfa, earl eC Ulater.
She died in 1303. Not kmg aftervaida he BaiTied Violenta,
daughter of John Gaieazxo, duke of Milan, with whos he reeei?ed
a large portion. Hia naptyJa were oelehrated at Milan with
extraordinary pomp. 8iow gitea the MIowing aeeonnt of the
entertainaienta on thia oceaMon :— '' In the month of April lionell,
dttfce of Clarence, with a choaen eompany of Engliah iiohility«
went towania MelbiDea, there to marry Violenta, the danghtcr d
Galeacins, the seeond of that name, duke oiT Milan, at whoae
airital sneh ahandanoe of trea«tire was ia a most bonnteoas man*
ner spent in making most snmptaoos feasts, setting forth stately
nights, and honoring with rare gifts ahoTe two hundred Engliah-
men. who aceompanied his son-in*law, as it seemed to snrpasse
the greateeaae of the most wealthie princea; for in the banqaet
whereat Phmcis Petrarch was present wmang the ehiefeat gnests^
there were above Uiirtie couiaes of serrice at the taUe, and betwixt
e? ery eoorae as many presents of wondrous price intenntxed, all
which John CSaleacias, chiefe of the chosen youth, bringing to
the table, did ofler unto Lionell. There were in one only ooarse
aetenty goodly horses, adorned with silk and silver fiirnitiii<^
and ia the other silver veaaels, fidcons, hoonda, armour far horses,
costly coats of mayle, breast-plates glittering of massie Steele,
helmets and corselets, ded^ed with costly crestes, apparell distinct
with costly jewels, souldier's girdles, and lastly, certain gemmes,
by curious art set in gold, and of purple and clotli of gold for
men's ^parel in great abnudance. Such was the sumptuousnesse
of this banquet, that the meats or fiagmedts which were brought
finom the table would have aofictently served ten thousand men.
♦'But
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wrpouc
J39
^ B«l iMl lo&g aiUr, lioBdl, tiTiBg vilk hk new wife, wU^
after the mamwr of Ilk owm eonitry, as ferfettng or Ml J
itm efaaiige of ayre, adiBcted hiiaaelf oTer mutk lo
^^wtings. Spent and ce—nmed with a itagcriag •wfcwg— e^ he ^M
at Alba P^Napeia, ealM also LmgtnnU, m the ayvqaiaate eT
Montaemt, in Piednonl^ oa the ligil of St Lake the ETaagelia^
A. D. 1368, 10 the 42d yeave of hia fethcr'a leigae.''
CaaMte, in hia Aimab of Ifebad, rebtct thai lieaeO waa hvned
iathecityefPlLTia, haidbySt Aagnainw the deaor ; hat thai
his henea were fenMired, hvoaght to KngkaJ, aad ivtcmd a a»»
eond tune in the conTentnal chorch of Aagnstine Fiiani at Clara.
Phili^a, lionel'a only daoghter by hia first wife, was OMiTied,
as haa been before ohaenred, to Edoinad Mortinier, earl of M arch»
by whoBB die had a son, Roger. Anne, daoghter of the latter, aMfw
Tying Riehaid of Cambridge, transfened the right to the crown
tothehonseofYorlL
The paiiah ehnreh, an ancient and beantifal stmctore, wkh a
sqoare tower, is at preaent the principal omanwat of Clare. Fmm
its staldy appearance, there is erery reason to pxesaoM that it was
erected at the cost of the lords, who allowed the townspeople the
use of it. The Imt is of stone, and from ita Ibrm and decora-
tions, is evidently of the same age as the cfaaroh. Among other
penons of note intored here, is Edmnnd, son of the above men
taoned Roger Mortimer, eail of Jfarch, and nest heir to, the
crown after the death of king Richard IL The chorch oantaiaa
but one monnment of a knight, said to be one of the Cavendish
ftunily.
The second maiket-town m thb handred ia Haveehux, or, aa
it is written in old records, HmoerhmU and Haverel Ita market,
which is small and inconsiderable, is held weekly on Wedaeoday ;
and it haa two annnal fiurs on the I2th May and 26th Aagnst
In 1801 it contained IdO booses, and 1104 inhabitanta, of whom
487 were retomed as employed in trade and in the mannfartnre
of ebecb, cottons, and fiistians. The principal steeet is wide :
but the booses are mean. The chorch is a large ancient stfoc-
0 tor^
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ime, and there aie two miwtMig Imnm8» mi « <H»tit9 mimtt,
Ihe town, which w» fmaeriy of miieb gM^.eUfml^; the i
of anther ohorch and of a cattle beiDg aliU viitUe. Tii^aootfc
and of tlie mab stncft ia partly m SdUk, aad|>avttjr in Smcx.
Thaaaoonof DeBeoiog and HaverhiH, Mov^^ 4 Haory IV.
p^ Levd Staftrd, and to Hamphrey, diAe of BaeUa^^iam S6
Henry VI. In 1 Sichaid III. Henry lonl Grey> of C^daoore, bad
a gta&t of the maaoia of Havcrbltt and Hendkaan. Thu diurch
was inptopriated to the pricry of Caslleacre, in Noffclk ; aad
the neotory aadadvowaonof the yieaiage, weneg^nated, 99 Heary
¥in. to Thootts, load Cromweil.
Haverhill waa the birth-|dace of Dr. SAiuJaL Wa»d, a oele^
kalod divne of the 17th oeatory, and naatar of Biimy CoU^pe,
Cattbradge, whoae fitther waaaiuiistarof ihia plaoe, a«i liae baried
m the ebaneel of the chnroh. He acconpanied Biahly jCarllw,
Dean Hall, and Dr. Davenant, to the synod ai DlQrt» Awt impn*
aoaaient and ill usage, daring the <inHd>ka uadar Chailaa L ooca-
atoned his death in 164d.
The rilagea worthy of notice in this handled ax^ : —
BARii&RDiaTON, commonly pronounced Babnoon, which bo-
longed to Thomas de Woodstock, earl of Backin^am and daka
of Gloocester, sixth son of King Edward III, and wais oae of 4ho
astates with which he endowed the college of Fleshyj in Emm,
•a ita foandation 16 Richavd II. This place gave name to a k^
mOj, the Tarions branches of which have had seats at Kediagtoa^
firightwell, and Wyverston in this county.
Cowling, or Cooling was the estate of William Long Espee,
aasl of Salisbury and Samerset, natacal son to King Henry II. by
4he hk Rosamond. In thu parish is a handsome mansion, tho
cesidence of ■ ■ ■ Dickens, Esq.
Dalham, the lordship and demesne of Waiter de Norwich, a
parliamentary baron in tlie reign of Edward II. passed, together
with his other eatales, on the death of his great grandson, to
WiUtam de Ufford, earl of Suffidk. It afterwards came into the
teiily of the EatotefiUes, and at length became by pnrehaso the
6 property
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SVFFOUU Itl
fmjpferty cf the AiBeckfiunily^irliich wm/m 1782, elervtod to tke
hoMmiB of btfunmetege, «id hat r^larly resided at the mansion
bere, ealied Datham-HalL This mansioo was built about the year
1705 by Dr. Patrick, bishop of Ely. The offices below are arohed»
^»d al top, a BoUe gallery twenty-four feet wide, moa quite
through the buflding.
Od the top of the stieqtle of Dalham ehnrdi is this inscription:
^ Keep my sabbaths,'' — " Reference my sanctuary/'
DxFDBN, a sflsall village of about thirty houses, is remaikaUv
eidy as the birth place of Dr. ANtHONT Spabbow, bishop of
Harwich, whose £rther, a wealthy man, then resided here. Hewas
educated Sit QnelBB's eeUege, Caod)ridge, where he became a fel*
low, and so ek>Btinned till the commencement of tiie civil wan
under Charles L when that society waa auppreased for its byalty.
8oon after the Eteatoratien of Charles IL he was successively ap-
p^nted archdeacon of Sudbury, president of Queen's College^
bish«9 of Exeter, and at length translated to the see of Norwich,
which he enjoyed about eight years, and died in 16^
I HUKDON, waa 9 Edward I. the lordship and estate of Gilherl
I de Clare, eaii of Gloucesler,' and aftorwaida of liond, dnke of
ChreBOOf from whom it deocdided to the royal kwse of York.
The manor, or nyuted manor of Hundon, with tte paHu called
Great Auk, Eatry Park, and Broxley FaiEk, was granted, 3 Ed-
ward YI,. to Sir John Cbtke, aa pari of the poaaeaaions of the
soBeg^ of Stoke Ckre.
In 1687, between two and three hundred Saxon coins were dis*
covered by the sexton, while digging a grave in the church'>yard
of thia village. They were all of nearly the aame size and
weight, " ahoal the iBgneas of our groat,'' say the anthois of the
Mmgma BHl«iiiita, and e^ivalent to the Roman denarii, but
scarcely two could be found with the same inscription. This va-
riety might arise from the numerous mints in different places of
the kingdom, with distinct mastera to each, who had power to
put what stamps they pleased upon their owa coin,
{a a baiUing at^M^ed to the church ia a nohie pyiamid of
mafirae.
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142 SOFFOllL
matUe^ erected to the memory of Arethiua, wife of Jamee Ver«
Don^ esq. and daughter of lord Clifford, heir apparent of Richard,
earl of Burlington. She was mother of the late earl of Shipbrooke,
and died in 1728.
Kedington, or, as it ia written in Domesday-book, Keditune,'
now corruptly called Ketton, was, at the time that aurey war
taken, the estate of Ralph Baynard. His grandson, William,
having forfeited his honour and estates, the principal of which*
was Baynard's Castle, London, by joining in a oonspiiacy against
Henry L lost his barony, which being seized by that king, wa»
given by him to Robert, a yomger son of Richard Fitz-Gilbert/
progenitor of the most ancient family of Ite earis of Clare. It
was, in later times; the property of the Bamardistons, a family
which produced many persons of eminence, and resided at the
fine mansion of Kedington-HaU.* In 1663, Sir Thomas Bar-
nardiston, of this place, kiiight, was created a baronet; bnt the
title is now extinct.
In the church of this place are monnments for several of the
Bamardistons ; and the windows did, if they do not still, exhibit
varioiis memorials of that ftmily. In the sonlli window, for ex*
ample^ was represented a Bamardiston, with seven sons behind
him, and his wife with the same number of daughters ; and at a
little distance is a tomb for Sir Thomas Bamardiston, and Uliza-
zabeth his wife, by whom that window was built. ' On 4he nortii
side
* Sir Nathaoiel Bamardiston, of this place, loight of the shire for Soffblk/
was a man of exemplary piety and Tirtoe, and a firm friend to the liberties of
bis eoantry. He died in 1653. In the leign of Qaeen Aime, t«ro baronets
of this family. Sir Samuel and Sir Thomas BaroardiHoo, sal at the: same tima
io the Houie of Commoni .
This family is also remarkable for baling given rise to the appellation of
Rcundfuad, during the civil commotions under Charles I. ** The London
apprentices/' says Rapin, " wore the hair of the head cut round ; and the
queen, observing oat of a window, Samuel Bamardiston among them, cried
out t ' See what a handsome mmd head is there !' Hence came this name*
wififili was first publicly used by Captaui Hyde.
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•VffOIJL
149
tide #f Die choBdi iko is a hiiriboMP momwrnatH, witk the pv«
trutove of aaotlier Sir ThomiB Bmardktoii, uA Bliz•bfltt^ Jus
hdy, wbo died in tke begtimiiig of the sixteeBth ceakory.
The celebrated arehhiihop TiUotson was Buniater of thta plaeo
at the time of the Cooynoiiwealth.
LidoaTb ivia granted by William the Conqneror to Re3raold
aaas Nase, a ffallant aoMier, who receiTed hia aimuuBe drom hav-
ing loot his nose when attending that iMMiarch in hia wara. Going
afterwanb on a jutgrimage to Jennalai^ he gave thia loidahip to
the abbey of Bnry St. Edmnnd'a.
lidga^ 18 BMOMrahle for having glYta birth and naae to John
Lidgate, a Benedictine monk of Bury, of great oelehrity aaoag
his contemporaries for his learning and poetic talenta.
'' Here/' says Kirby, '' was a mount moated round near tho
churchy on which remain the raina of a castle/'* Scarcely any
vestiges even of the foandations are now left : bnt the aMMta are
stiU to be seen. The inhabitaMs nsnally call it king Joha'a
castle; and its mins are to this day dug np to repair the roads in
its dirty neighbourhood.
Stok£ juxia Clare is so denoa^nated to distinguish it from
Stoke juxta Neyland^ in the adjoining hundred. Thii place is re-
mariutble for the monastery of the Benedictine order, tranalaled
hither from the castle of Clare by Richard de Tooebnige, who at
the same time gave to it themamw and a littlo wood calltsd Stoke
Ho. About 14l5j Edmund Mortimer^ earl of March obtabed the
king's permission to change thia institution into a collegiate
church, consisting of a dean and secular canons. This exchange
was duly ratified by pope John XXIII. and Martin V. At the
dissolution it was valued at 324L 4s. Id. per anaun, and granted
to Sir John Cheke and Waller Mildmay, from whom it paaaed to
the fiunily of Trigg. It then became the property of Sir Gervase
Elwes, who was created a baronet July 22, 1600, and died ia
1705.
Sir Gervase, says Mr. Topham, in his highly hiteresting and
instruct
• Suffolk TravtUtfi fecwid edit. p. «dl.
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144 6VI90iK«
iiiitfiiaih^ life •( tka lAto Jobs Elwe», esq. '' wm i T«y Ustrlky
gMaeMii, thAt hft^ iBV0l v«d IIS te a* Uiey iWMdi 00 all the ««*»^
he received sad left behind hfas/' On hb death, hb gtwidwtt
and sttoeesser^ '' Sir Henrey^ fovnd himself nodHndyiy poflsesaed
of some thonaande a year, but reilly witJi an ilioofli^ of elie hea*
d<ed pounds per aimiifli. He declared On his arriYal at tiielhrnlly
aeai at SUAm, that he would uever leave it till he had euticely
deared the paternal estate^ and he lived to do that, aad to lealiao
above one hundred thousand peonds in addition*" At hia death
the estate at Stoke devolved to his nephew the bfte John Ehfrn,
eaf . froii whsin it desoended to the present poaseasor, J. H. T.
9hres, esq.*
• In the aniuili of aTtrice, there is toot a more celebrated Dsoie than that of
Etwes. The accamuiation ef money waa flie only paniM and employoiettl
of Hie long Hie of Sir Rervey^ who, tboagh given owet in lit yoatl^ftr •
liotuniayiian, attained to the age of upvafda of eigbty ye«e. 1>» aifioid the
exfMMS Q^ee#pafiy« be doomed htnatlf, ftr above ns^ yeaie» totbeitrietefft
aoiitiide« aearcely hnew the indalgeace of ire and candle* and resided in %
mansion where tlie wind entered at every broken casement, and the rain
descended throngh the roof. His household consisted of one man and two
maids ; and sach was the systematic economy which gOTcmed his whole «!»•
blishment, that tttt aonnfld etpendftnne of Sir fierrey^ though worth at leait
ase,00(ik amMMcd to IIOL " Among tfte fbw acqnaintttees be b«d/'s»pa
lir. Tapham, wai ali oeenskxml dnb al bit own mHago of SMke^ and there
wore membera oC it two baroneti besides himself, S» Cordweii Virebiai» and
Sir John Barnardiston. However rich they were, the reckoning was alwaya
an object of their investigation. As they were one day settling this difficult
point, an odd fellow, who was a member, called oot to a friend who was
passing : ** For heaven's sake step up stain and assist the poor! Here are
three baronets, worth a million of moneys qnarvainng abenC a ftHUng !**
On iba death of Sir Hervey hi if6$p bo by in stale, web as it wai^ aS
Stpke } and some of bia tenanta observed with more bomoar than deo«^cy«
that it was well be could not see it. His immenae property derotved to bk
nephew, John Maggot, who, by his will, was ordered to assume the name
and arms of Elwes.
Mr. Elwes, whose mother had been left a widow by a rich brewer, trith a
fortune of one hundred Aonsand poondsy and starved benelf todeatb, proved
himM^f a worthy heir to her and Sir Hervey. On hii firrt coming to Stoke
after
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•OFTOLK. Itf
At Gkbat THUitLOir was onoe a small hospital or free chapel
of the yearly Talae of 31. which was yranted by Edward IV. to
the
«fter his uncle't de«di« he begao* it b trae, to keep fox-hoandt ; end bit
stable of banters at that time was laid to be the best in the kingdom. This
was the oalj hutaoce in the whole life of Mr. Elwes of his sacrificing money
te pleasnre ; bat even here everj thing, was conducted in ao frugal a man*
ner, that the whole of bu establishment, banttraan> dog*, and hor>ef> did
not cost hun three hundred pounds a year. After a rendence of near fourteen
yens at SUtk€, be was chosen to represent Berkshire in parliament, on which
occasion he removed to his seat at Msrcham in that coaoty. He now relioquish-
ed the keeping of horses and dog»; apd no man could be more attentive to his
senatorial duties than Mr. Elwes while he continued to lit in the House of
Commons. On his retirement from public life, to avoid the expense of a con*
tested election, he was desirous of visiting his seat at Stoke, where he had
not been ibr some jeart. When be reached this place, once the seat of more
active scenes, of somewhat resembling hospitality, and where hu fox-hounds
had diffused something like vivacity around, he remarked that " he had
Ibmierlj expended a great deal of money very foolishly, but that a man
grows wiser in time.''
Of the way of living of this accomplished miter duriug thii his last real*
deooe at Stoke» the ibllowing account is given by his biographer i-^
" The rooms at his seat at Stoke» that were now much out of repair, and
weuhi have all fallen in, but tor his son, John Elwes, Esq. who had resided
tberei he thought too expensively famished, as worse things might have done.
If a window was broken, there was to be no repair, but that of a little brown
paper, or piecmg in a bit of broken glas^ which had at length been done so
frequently, and in so manjf shapes, that it would have pussled a mathema*
lician to say what figure they described. To save fire, he would walk about
the remains of an old green-house, or sit with a servant in the kitchen. I>ui>
log the harvest he would amuse himself with going into the fields to glean the
com on the gronnds of his own tenants ; and they used tojeave a little more
than oomnon. to please the old gentleman, who was as eager after it as any
pauper in the parish. In the advance of the season, his morning employment
was to pick np any stray chips, bones^ and other thmgs to cany to the fire, in
his.pocket ; and he was one day surprised by a neighboring gentleman in the
act of pulling down a crow's nest for that purpose. On the gentleoMn woa-
dering why he gave himself this trouble. ** Oh, Sir 1" replied old Elwea^
'*'a'n really a shame that these creatures should do so. Do but see what
waste tbey make ! Tbey don't care bow extravagant they are."
Vm^XlV. L "As
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146 suvrohK.
the Maison Ae Diev, now part of King's College^ Cambridge.
The hall^ with the lordafaipi formeily belonged to tin WaMe-
gravea,
" As no gletffl of fkronrite pMston, or any rty of amttsenent, broke throogli
this gloom of penaiy, his intattable desire of saTing was now become aniform
mid sjstematie. He used still to ride abont the country on one of the worn*
oat mares, bat then, he rode her very economically, on the soft turf adjohi« '
fing the road, withoat putting himself to the ex pence of shoes, as he obaerved»
' the tnrf was so pleasant to a hone's foot.' When any gentleman called to
pay him a ▼isi^ and the boy wbo attended in the stable, was pioibse eoongb
to pnt a little hay before the horse, old Elwes woold slily steal back, and
take it carefully away*
" That very strong appetite, which Mr. Elwes had in some measnre ie»
itrained, during the long sitting of parliament, he now indnlged most vonu
cioosly, and on every thing he conld find. To save, as he tbooglit, the ex*
pence of going to a butcher, he woold have a whole sheep killed, and so eat
mutton to the end of the chapter. When he occasionally bad his jf.wtr drawn,
though sometimes horse loads of small fish were taken, not one wonM he suf-
fer to be thrown in again ; (br he observed, ' he should never see Aem again*'
Game, in the last state of putrefaction, and meat, that walked about hit
plate, would he contmae to eat^ fadier than have new things killed, before
the old pfOTision was finished. With this diet^ the charnel-house of suste-
nance, hii dress kept pace, equally In the last stage of disaolution. Some-
times he would walk about in a tattered brown-coloured, and sometimes in a
red and white woollen cap, like -m prisoner confined Ibr debt. His shoes ha
never would suffer to be cleaned, lest they should be worn out the soonetl
When any friends, wbo might occasionally be with him, were absent, he
would carefully put out his own fire, walk to the house of a neighbor, and
thus make one fire serve for both. But still, with all this self-denial, this pe-
nuiy of life, to which the inhabitant of an afans-boose is not doomed, ttill
did he think himself profuse, and frequently say, ' be must be a Httle more
eaieM of his property.'
" The scene of mortification at which Mr. Elwes had- now airivech was all
but a denial of the oommon necessaries of life; and indeed It might have ad-
mittad a doobt« wbetfier, if his manors, his fish-ponds, and some grounds
in bis own hands had not fhmished a subsistence, where he bad not any thing
actually to buy, he would not rather have starved than have bought any Aing.
He one day, during this period, diaed upon the remaiBiag part of a moor*
'hea^
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iUFFOUL
im
ggmrm, and allermdB to Bif Cordd Firebrace, Bart By Ui«
htler they were sold to James Vcrnoiif Esq. irbofte de^cadaut
BOW haft his leat here.
In the contiguous p&risli of Little TauRLOw is a noble old
mansioD, long the residence of the family of Soame. The cliordi
^ntains a handsoBie mmiumeni, in mctm^ry of Sir SkplRii 8o&mti^
iuyt, wlbo had heen liMrd major of LoDdoo. He built tht fuinify
residesoe during the leign of qaecn EUzabetli ; lie alao founded
liem a free-school and an alms-bouse^ aod died la 1619*
HUNDRED OF BABERGH,
This hundred is diTided from Essex on the south hy the Stonr|
911 the west it is boundcJ by Uie same rivcr^ and tlie hundred of
Rbbridge; on the nortl* hy the hundreds of Thingo and Thed-
westrj; and on the east by those of Cosford aod Samford. Tht
principal place in the hundred of Babergh la,
Sudbury^ a borough and market town of hi^h antiquity, and
fmce of much greater importance tlinn at present^ situated on
the Stour, which is na? igable for barges to this place, and over
which there is a well built stone bridge. It compreUends three
parishes^ now incorporated, with tJie same number of large, hand*
L2 som^
\A, wBich bad been broach t out of the riTer l>j a rat ; and at nnotber ifQ
tlie undigested part of a piUr which a largi^r one bad iwal lowed, but had
notfiniabedy and wbicb were taken in thi^ »iaie in a nef. At the (imc (lilt
laat circamstanee bappenedj he djscorered a itringe kind o{ s^tibnictrotfj tib-
•enring: ' Aje I thii was killing two biidf with one itune ! Tq the room uf
all comment let it be remarked tbfil at Ihif time Mr. Elwes wa* perhnpi
]rorth near eight handred thoQiand pounds*"
Tbb eitraordinarj nun <Bed Noveiiiber tftli 1789| at his scat at Marcbom,
■fal Berkature^ hafring bjwill bequetthcd all bit r«a) atid perscnul eslate^ to
theTalae <yf balf a million sterling, to his two natural »oiih Getirge nitd John
£|wfi| Iba latter of whom U the preient propnttor of Stoke.
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i4S nvTFKiix.
some eharches, St Gregory^s; St. Peter^s, and All Saints, SM
lioiues, and 3283 inhabitants. It is a corporate town, governed
by a mayor, six aldermen, and twenty-fonr capital bargessest
Ever since 1559 it has returned two members to parliament,
elected by the whole body of freemen, abont 720 in number ; and
it gives the title of baron, to the duke of Grafton. It has a
weekly market on Sliturday, and two annual fairs, on March 12th
and July lOlh.
Sudbury was anciently denominated Southhurgh, hi oontradia^
tinction to Norwich, then called Northburgh, It was one of^the
first places at which king Edward III. settled the Flemings whom
he invited to this country, to instruct his subjects in the woollen
manufacture, of which they wore before wholly ignorant. The
various branches of this manu&cture continued to flourish, here
for some centuries, and afforded subsistence to a great number of
the inhabitants of this town, who were chiefly employed in the
weaving of says, burying crape, and ship's flags: but Sudbury,
like many other places in this county, possessing scarcely any
.remains of its former trade, which has fixed its seat in other dia*
tricts of the kingdom, is consequently on the decline.
Simon de Sudbury, who was archbishop of Canterbury in 1375,
and beheaded by the populace in Wat Tyler's insuirection, was a
native of this town : his family name was Theobald. He built
the upper end of St Gregory's church, and on the spot where his
fisither's house stood, he founded and endowed a college, which at
the suppression, was of the yearly value of 122L .18a. Leland
says, that the same prelate, in conjunction with John de Chertsey,
founded here a priory of the order of St. Augustine, though Weevil
ascribes it to Baldwin de Shimplingand Mabel his wife, who were
both interred in the chancel of the priory church. This priory bad
a revenue, valued at the dissolution at222L 18a. dd. per annuhr;
and part of the building, converted into a private habitation, is still
standing. In the reign of John, Amicia, countess of Clare,
founded in this town an hospital, dedicatedtoJesua Christ and the
Virgin Mary ; and a church, or chapel, in its neighborhood, dedi*
cated
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SCFFOLK« 14B
oted to SL Bartfaolomew, was givtn to the abbey of Westmia-.
•ter, by Wnlfirie, master of the mint to king Henry II. npea
vhich a priory of Beaedictine monks^ subordinate to thai abbey>
was settled there, Thi» priory, of vhich Kirby has given a pnnt»
vas pulled down in 1779.
The body of Simon of Sudbury, archbishop of Canterbury^
was interred in St Gregory's church in this town, *' where/' says
the author ci a Tour through Great Britain/ published in 1748,
^ his head is still showu. It was not long since entire, covered
with the flesh and skin, dried by art ; tlie month wide o^ea, occa-
sioned by convulsions, through the hard d<fath hi; died, having suf-
fered eight blows, before his head was cut oC Mr. Gough say^
that it ia still shewn, the skin tanned, and the ears entire. f U i«
deposited under a marble stone, four yards long and two broad, iu
the chapel, or the partpf the church, which was built by himself;
the monument erected in honor of him, in the cathedral of Can;
terbnry, being only a cenotaph.^ An inscription in the window of
the chapel, near his tomb, recorded his foundation in these words ;
Orate pro Domino Simone Tliepold, alias Sudbnfy,qui istam
capeUam fundavit Anno Domini 1385, m commemoratione om-
nium animarum. Dedicate dot. Consecrat,
. Sudbury has still a manufacture of says; and also a small silk
manufactory, established some years ago by the London mercers,
on account of the deamess of labour in Spitalfields. The town
gives name to one of the two archdeacoQs of this county.
Sudbury was the birth place of Thomas Gainsborough, one of
the most eminent English painters of the 18th century. He was
born in 1727, and at a very early age, manifested a remark-
able propensity for the art in which he was destined so highly to
excel. He was sent, while yet very young, for instruction to
London, where he first practised the modelling of figures of ani-
mals, in which he attained great excellence. He drew, under the
L 3 direction
* Vol. L p. SS. t Camden II. 164, i See Bcautief . Vol. YIH. p. ^t^
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IM
SVfVOUL
n
direction of GraTelol, the ornamentB for Honbraken's lietds^ and
painted small landscapes for sale. At length he undertook por^
traits, and after a residence for some years at Ipswich and Bath,
be finally fixed his residence in the metropolis, in 1774. His ex«
tellence in a short time engaged the notice of his majesty, of
%vhom, as well as of most of the branches of his family, he exe-
ented admired portraits. No other patronage was necessary to
taise him to the first rank in his profession, in regard to bnsiness
and emolument In other respects, Gainsborough possessed all
ihe characters of original genius. His talents for music were ex-
traordinary, and with very little knowledge of books, he wrote
letters in a style, which might have been taken for a close imita-
tion of the manner of Sterne. Hu conversation was sprightly
And humorous, and his heart was ever alive to friendly and ge-
tierons emotions. He died at his house in Pall Mall, August 3,
|788, and was interred in the church-yard at Kew.
Ckiinsborough had a brother, a dissenting minister at Henley
iipon Thames, who possessed as strong a genius for mechanics, as
lie had for painting. At his death, he left all his models of ma-
chines, engines, dials, and other curiosities to the painter, by
^hom tiiey were presented to one of his earliest patrons the well
known Philip Thicknesse. A sun-dial, of ingenious contrivance,
^as given by that gentleman to the British museum. Few men
were more highly respected than this worthy divine, who was not
teas etaiinent for benevolence, simplicity, and integrity, than for
<genins. It has abo been stated, that an elder brother than ei«
ther of these, who continued to reside at Sudbury, was scarcely
inferior to them for proficiency in the arts.
William Enfield was also bom at Sudbury, in 1741.
After receiving his education among the protestant dissent^
itn at Daventry, the congregation at Liverpool made choice
p{ -him for their minister, when he was no more than 22 years of
iage. Here he published two volumes of Sermons, and also a col-
lection of Hymns and Family Prayers, In 1770 he was ap-
pointed tutor and lecturer in the belles lettrcs at Warrington Aca»
derny^
f»
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SUTFOIX 1<|
4c»^y«atttiutMnvluchbefilkdlwtoBey«ffBwitiigeii«rtl ap-,
probation^and vnireahed diligeiice. He vai the oompUer of man^r
useful booka, among the moat popular ni wkich may be ranke^
the Speaker, compoaed of piecea ix recitatioo firom the beat Eiig<» '
liaik aathon. The Preacher* $ Directory; the EngUih Preacher^
a coUectioa of aeraona hy the most celebrated diviaea ; Biogra^
fkical Serwums, on the principal charaden of the Old and New
Tealaaeoty and naay aingle sermona on particular oecaaiona^
were also the prodacftioaa of bia pen. He tikewiie publiahed in
gaarto^ InHihUes of Natural PhUoiopky, and hadUie degree of
LL. D. oonfened on bim daring bia reaidcnce al Ufarrington.
Some time after the diBsolotion of the academy at that plaoa, be
WBB, in 1785y choeen pastor of the Octagon meeting-boose, at
Norwich, the daties of which chaige he fulfilled till his death, oq
the 3rd Norember, 1797. Besides bia literary labors already ena-
merated, he execnted the ardoooa tuk of abridging Brucker'i
flistary of PkUoiopky, which appeared in 1791, in two volnmea
quarto. He contributed Isrgely to the Biographical Dictionary^
pnUishad undeir tbe superintendence of Dr. Aikin. The very
numerous list of anbscribera to bia posthumous Semumf, in 3 Tols.
8to. attest tbe general estimation b wbidi this amiable, el^anty
and jnaily admired writer, waa held.
Li^vENjKAM, commonly called Lanham, formeriy a market town,
but now much decs^ed, ia sealed on an bill of ea^ ascent, at tha
foot of wbioh nma tbe river Breton, or Bret. It containa 331
bopsea, and 1776 inhabitants.
Tbia place waa once &mooa for ita manufSEictnre of blue cloths.
For the better regulation of tbia manu&cture, and employing and
piOfiding for the poor, three guilds, or companies, of St. Peter^
the Hcdy Trinity, and Coipoa Chriafti, were establiabed. On
the decUfte of .tbia nmnufectpre, Layenbain atiU retained a consi-
dnable lilapliBg trade for ma)ung serges, shalloons, says, stafi^,
and ginning fine yam for London, which became very flourish*
ing from tbe erection of a wool-ball, which being commodionsl^
fritittled^ finr tbe liadera of tbe adjacent parts of the county, waa
L 4 ^^^^
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Iftt SUFFOLK.
mnch frequented. Of all these mannfactares/ Lavenham noir
has nothings but the sphining of woonen yarn^ and the making'
of calimancoes. A considerable manuiiMtttr« of hempen cloth,
has, however, of late years, been established in this town. It is
governed by six capital burgesses, who are chosen for life, and
appoint the inferior officers. It has a free-school, a bridewell
part of which is appropriated to the purposes of a workhouse, and
a spacious market-place, with a stone cross in the centre, hot the
market has long been disused. It has an annual lair, on Shrore
Tuesday, for hones ; and another, on the 10th of October, whtck
lasts four days, for butter and cheese.
The church, standing on the hill, at the west end of the town,
is not only the principal ornament of Lavenham, but is ac-
eounted the most beautiful fabric, in its kind, in this county.
It is chiefly built of free-stone, the rest being of curious flint-
work; its total length is 156 feet, and its breadth 68. The
steeple, admirable both for its strength and beauty, is 141 feel
high, and 42 in diameter, and has six bells.
That some of the De Veres, earls of Oxford, and the Springs,
who were opulent clothiers in this town, were the principal found-
ers of this church, is evident, from their arms being put up in
80 many parts of the building : but we have no certain accoun
by which of them, or at what period it was erected. We are in-
formed, that *' in the time of one Thomas Spring, a rich dothi^,
this church was old and decayed, whereupon he gave two hundred
pounds towards the repairs, and fats posterity, joining with the
earls of Oxford, the posterity of his daughter finished it"* Wee-
ver telk us, that Thomas Spring, sumamed the rich clothier,
died in 1510, and was buried under a monument, on the north side
of the chancel; and that he built both the south and north cha-
pels on each side of the chancel; but he must be mistaken in
this circumstance^ as appears from two legends, inscribed near
the top of these chapeb. That on tlie north side is. Orate jir9
m^TThonuB Springe, ArrrSg. et Alideuxoris, efui iiui iskim
' eapeUem
•M*«.BfitVol.V.p.l77.
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uvmnx. m
^epeUamJUrifeeenmi, Anmo JDm. mJUnko CCCCC \
^hUo. And Uwi on tliettorth: SmtmisBrmeki «t EUMaiei^
mstoris ejus qui isttm capettmmJUri fecerunt From dm finlnC
these iMcriptioni, it is evidesd, thsl Weever't scoosiii is ciiwhomb,
in regsi^ to the time when tiiis part of tlie bniMing wis erected,
and from tbe latter, respeetiiig tlie penon by wImnb it was IbadU
ed. • Of tbe mensment whidi lie mentioas^ not the smslfnt
traces are now to be found, in the Tsstry, indeed, thsie mm aa
bid tomb^ with this inseriplion: Orde p aSs Thomm Sprgmge
qui'koc vegtihnhtmfieri fecit, m vtia taa tt Margartte uxor. c&
A. D. mtaimo CCCCLXXXVI. et p de^—MargarHe oh^
d}e MTss-'A. D. mimmo CCCCLXXXIF. quor'Sabz^icia
De. Amen. Hence it appears, that this Thomas Spring hnOt the
▼estry, and it is highly probable, that he, in eonjanction with
acme of the earls of Oxford, who welne then lords of the honor of
XaTenham, began to erect this elegant stmctore, and that it was
iiiiished by their descendants. This conjeetare u strengtiiened,
ly the different qnarterings of the arms npon the hnilding. Upon
the steeple are the arms of De Vere, quartered with tiiose of Ne-
▼il, Howard, and Montague ;* also those of Monthermer, earl of
Gloucester and Hertford, the episcopal arms of Canterirary and
liondon ; and on the top of it, twenty-six coats with the arms af
the Spring only.
The porch is an elegant piece of architecture, rery highly en*
Inched, . and in it are six shidds, all within garters, widi the arms
' e It cAii acncely i4mk of a dooU, Umc tbete were tlie arvt of John de
-Vere, IStb carl of Ozlbrd, wiw was high cliaaibcrlaiA sml •daarml of Eng-
iaad, is the reign of Edward IV. , and died in 1 513. He aarried Margaret*
daoghter of Richard Nerfl, earl of Salisbnty, and as he was heir apparent to
both the title and estate of his father, had a right of quartering the arms of his
mother, who was daughter of 3ir John How«fd,Qncle to the first dokeofNoiw
ioHc of that name; as well as those of his wife*s mother, who was the dangb-
jter of Thomas Montagne, Iborth earl of Salisbnry. These arms are not within,
MjgnttT, and it is known that the noUemaa in question was not a Imigbt of
^his order.
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•f tke De Veres, impaled and qoarteMd willi tbose of onyaf
ike most nobk iuMaies io the kiagdon. Tbey are adforned willi
Wan, which were the avpportets of the aim of the De Vera%
and upon one of them aie the letters I. O. probably int^ded Ibf
tke initiab of Mm, the fcnrteenih earl of Oxford, wl^ was a
kaight «f the garter, and nanried the daaghter of Thomas Howt
avd, dake of NorMlk. Ho ia coiueetared to have erected thia
ponh, ond died in 1529.
In the interior, the roof is admirably carved, and the two pewf
bdoogtng to the earls of Oxford, and the Springs, though no^
aomewhat decayed, were highly finished pieces of Gothic work in
wood. The windows are nnmeroos, and some of them are stiU
embellished with punted glass, representing the arms of the De
Veres and others.
On the left hand side of the altar is a monument of alabaster,
and marUe painted and gilded, erected to the memory of the
Bey. Henry Copinger, rector of Layenham. In an arched re-
cess between two Corinthian oolonbis, which support a cornice,
eormoonted with the arms of the family, are represented, in alto
•relievo,the reverend divine and bis wife, facing each other, in the
attitude «f prayer, both in black, with white ruSb round their
iiecks. On either side, upon a pedestal, stands an angel at falj
length, with a scroll in his hand; one bearing these words;
DiiecH accipite corcuam vtf 4C-^and on the other, Mortui veniie
^dJudicmm. Under the principal figures are three compart-
ments. In the middle are seen their children, all habited in black
' and kneding before an altar, eight sons, two and two on one side ;
and foor daughters, singly, on the other. The first of the for-
mer is represented cross^garlered down the leg, in the fiuihio|i at*-
Inded to, by Shakspeare, in the fifth act of las Twelfth Night
In the pannel on the left, is this inscription :
Sacrum memorie
Henrici Copingeri antiquissima CopiE^ronim familia id sgro hoc Sdlbl*
eiesii oriasdi, bojai ecclem quadcagtQta ^ ^uin^ue smioi pastoria pad*
•fiA
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SVfFOIJB^ "tOS
Aflba nvito opttne ttcranti hea invito topeiatet i
Aaians iiiairitii|» pioli fceemidtts {wtar»
Sancti pivt pMtor gregb*
Qvi atDMi 4exCi« codicis dociiit ncrib
K«c voce qoMii Tito magis;
Qui larga abunde pavit indigot manu,
Securof annoniB domi :
Bic plenas annu pleoior Deo jacet,
SecniB polo grtgtm trafaea%
liataa jaod ; Md fingaa ^nm vivo decw
Vitam paraTit mortuo.
The iuBcription on tbe riglit hand side is aa follows :—
** This monument was erected at the sole cost of Mrs. Anne
C<^inger, in memory of her dear hnahand^ the reverend, learned,
and godly divine, Mr. Heniy Copinger, (fourth son of Henry
Copinger, of Buxhall, in tUs eountie, Esq. by Agnes his wife,
daughter to Sir Thomas Jermine, of Rushhrooke-Hall, Knt) the
painful and vigilant rector of this church by tiie apace of forty-five
years; prebendarie of the metropolitan church of St. Peter in
York; lord of this town, and patron of the church of Bnxhall
aforesaid, who married Anne, daughter of Henry Fisher, of Linne
in Norfolk, Gent. By her he had eight sons and four daughters ;
and after he had lived godly seventy-two years, died peaceably
Ttlsl Dec. Anno 1622.'*
Underneath all is this inscription : Justorum Memaria hene^
£cetur.
Of the divine to whom this monument was erected. Dr. Fuller
relates the following anecdote: Dr. Reynolds, who held the
living of Lavenham, having gone over to the church of Rome,
the Earl of Oxford, the patron, presented Mr. Copinger, but on
condition that he should pay no tithes for his park, which com-
preh^ed almost half the land in the parish. Mr. Copinger told
his lordshipi that he would rather return the presentation, than by
isnch a sinful gratitude betray the rights of the church. This anw
9 Bwer
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•Iff MVtnaOL
swerso affected the earl, that he replied :'' I scorn that my estcti
ihoald swell with church goods:" His heir, however, actuated
by leas liberal sentiments^ contested the rector's right to the
tithes ; and it cost Mr. Copinger 160(M. to recover that right, and
leave the qniet possession of it to his succesaora.
In the north able is a small mural monument, upon which are
represented a man and woman engraved on hnsa, kneeling before
a table, and three sons and three daughters behind them. From
the month of the mauL proceeds a label, on which are these words :
In numus tua$ dUe cammendo spifitum mewm. Underneath ia
ibis inscription, -which, like that of the ld>el, is in the old English
character:
Contynnan prayw tboe lynet in braiie «
Of AUaine Dister here,
A clothier vertoous while he wts
In LaTcnham many a yeare.
For as in Ijefe he lored best
The poore to clothe and feede,
SowithtberfcheaDdaUtfa»f«st %
He n^ghbottUe agreed ;
• And did appt^nte before he dyed,
A special! yearlie rent>
Whiche shoulde be erery Whitsontide
Amonge the poorest spent
£l obiU Anno Dni 1554.
Whatever may have been the nature of this bene&ction men-
tioned in the preceding inscription, it ia now lost, and no peraoii
can give any account of it.
In the chancel there is a very old grave«stone, which formerly
had a Saxon inscription, at present completely defoced« Kirby
says,* that in the church-yard, on the tomb of one John Wiles, a
batchelor, who died in 1694, is this odd jingling epitaph:
Qaod fait esse qood est, quod non fait esse qaod esse
Esse qaod est non esse, qood est non erit esse.
There
• Historical Account of TweWe Prints of Monaiteries, Ace. ia the.cooat^
#fSo«bllE.p.2«.
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^' There areoKveral BobstftiitU chanttei bd^Qging to tlim town.
The inliabituito woe mtny yean since enebled to purchase aa
estate of 80L per annam for repairing the ahns-honaes^ and sap^
porting the poor placed in them. In 1G96, Edward Cohnan, Esq.
of Famiral's-Inn, beqneathed 9001. for the education of the chil*
dben here; and anch additions were made to thissom by the dona«
iioDS of .others, as purchased a eonraiient dwelling-hoase and
school -room, and an annuity of thirty pounds for a master* Mn
Coleman likwise left dOOL to he laid out in land, and the rent to. h«
Applied towards binding onl one poor hoy yearly from Mildea^
Brent lUeigh, or IjiTenham.
Lavenham was one of Hie two hundred and twenty-one lord*
ships in Sufiblk given by William the Conqueror to Robert Malel^
who.foifeited his possessions by joining Robert, the eldest son of
the Conqueror, on which, in. 2 Henry L that king conferred it
on Aubrey de.Vere, in whose posterity it remained tall alienated
hy Edward, Earl of Oxford, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth^
to Paul d'Ewes, Esq. Robert de Vere, in 18 Edward I. obtained n
eharter for a yearly hu in this town; and 3 Edward III. Ro*
bert> his son and heir, procured anoth^, authorizing his to*
nsnts at > this place to pass toll-free throughout all England;
which grant was confirmed by Queen Elizabeth in the twenty-
screnth year of her reign. The lordship is at present vested in
Richard Moore, Esq. of Melford.
Among the customs peculiar to this place, it may be remarked
that the tenants of the manor, and other inhabitants, have always
been exempt from serving at any court held for this hamlet ; and
that the tenure called JBorosf A English is still to be met with
here.
Lavenham was the birth-place of Richard de Lanham, a
divine of considerable eminence and great learning, who was be-
headed with Archbishop Sudbury by the foUowera of .Wat Tyler in
>38l.
Thomas Sprung, commonly called the rtc& clothUr, if not
horn in this town, at least acquired his wealth by the trade of it
6 FVom
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WilUam Spring, Esq. of Pakeoham, w^, m, 1641, it— toil ft
baronet by Cbarles I.
Sir THOMA4 CooKB» liatd-mayar of Lnadon is 14S9, via
th0 aoo of BiDiiert Caoke, <tf LaTenbaa. He waa anaigied
mite Eiwar4 IV. fi« laadtng amiey to tbe booae of Laacaa*
tar; b«i thoai^ be eacaped tbrangb tbe iatagrity af tbe jadfa
ani jury, witb Ua life, be waa bearily ined and bag iapn*
aHiedL Hia daagbtar, Mildred, aiarried Wiliiaai Cecil, Lord
Barkigb, loid-treaaiirer of Ea^^and, wbo bad a large Ibrtoae wilk
ber. His descendants, to wbom also be boqacatbed a cbnaiderable
ydrimmy, bwlt Gadaa Hall, near Biunirad, in Eaaex, wbere tbey
flewiahad fu several sneoeaaioaa.
N&YLiMD ia seated en tbe Bflftb baafcef tbe Stonr, overwbiob
it bM * large brick bridge of m» arob leading into Eaaex. Frott
ita km aitnatiaa it ia adbyeel to aeoaaioBal iaandationa. Tbe
yaalkn maaoftrtnge, wbieb vaa once isery flourisbkiig in tbistowa,
ia redneed to a law ebb, only saaie yuv being now made f&t
die maanfiictare of crape aad baaibaacon at Norwich. It baa a
■ean weekly market cm Fridays ; and a &ir yearly on ^e 2d of
Oetohar. Aecordiag to tbe ennmeration of 18(M, it contaiBed
147 booaes, and 881 inbabitaats.
Thediarcb, wtib iU vgm ateeple standing in tbe middle of tbe
town, ia its principal ornament. It contains nothing remarkable^
«i:cepi a km ancient HMMinments for persons formerly eminent in
tbe clothing trade. One Abel, a cloth worker, we are informed,*
bnilt tbe handsome porch of this diureh, in the wall of which
be baa a fim»al monnment, and ify signify bis name, as also to
make up his coat-armour, the letter A and the picture of a bell are
cast upon tbe monument.
Tbe manor of Neyland was one of those given to Hubert de
Bur^g^ 1^ Henry III. when be created him Earl of Kent; but
falling into disgrace with that king, he was obliged to part with
aevecal of bis caatlea and lands to aeeuie the quiet enjoyment of
the
* Magna BHtmmw, VoL V. p. 179*
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the raft, h 18 Bdwaxd UL H belongei ta Lord Semp, «f
. This town gave a tide of hoporto Sir Richard We«loii« wm aai
.hair af Sir Jeronne Westoa, ofRaxwell^ in Essen, who hMo^
Aeen ea^U^ed in yariona embassies^ and discharged seveni offiosa
of trait with great integrity In the reign of James I. and his crm-
*ce8Bar, was by the latler advanced to the peerage by the title af
Lord Weston of Neyland. Being soon afterwards eonstitatedlopd-
iiaasuwr ef EagfamdA and appointed a knight of the garter, he
•was ia 8 Charles I. created Earl of P^rtkmd; and both these
honora were ei^yed for some aneeessioiis by hia descendaati.
The other plaoea in this hnndred worthy of notice are as fol-
low:—
Acton, formerly criled Aketon, a smafl Tillage atanfing on
•tihe westom side of the road fimn Sndbnry to Lavenham. In 9
Edward L the manor af thia pari^ waa the possessionof Bobert
'de Bners; bat it was afterwards given by King Edward IV; to
Henry Lord Bonchier, for his fidthfdl services to the York hauif.
In this parish was anciently a ehaantry of the annnal valae of
€7L 28. 8 d.
Acia» Place waa formerly the aeat of the Daniels, and sold
ty them to Robert Jennens, Es^. who began to rebaild this ma&-
.lion, wluch, thongh a ine stractmre, waa never completely finish-
ad. Hia son, William Jennens, Esq. died in 1791, at the
age of 93, or as some say 100, with the rqnitation of being tile
richest anbject in the kingdom. On hia decease the fine topestry
waa torn from 4ie walls, and sold,, with the fornitore and other
moveaUea. This noble mansion having since that time been in-
habited only by an old man and woman, now presents adeplorabie
spectacle of dilapidation ; and the approach to it cannot be traced
: bat by the colour and height of the grass which has grown ever
the graveL The interior still exhibits some vestige of ite fttmer
splendor. The hall is adorned with alto relievos ; and the ceiling
• with an admirable painting of a subject firom the heathen mytho-
-b^» At each comer is also a figure of one of its fitbled divinitiea.
At
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At the end, and on c^ch Bide, are paintings of frnit and aidmalBT hf
Snyders : and circular recesses contain six busts of admirable
isorkmanship. In tbe pannels over the fire-places, in different
apartments, are portraits of the late proprietor and his parentu^;
and the library, contains a beaatiful fruit piece by Snyders. A
carious specimen of the female industry of formter days still exists
here in what is denominated the Pinnt-Roam, the whole of which
is hung with needle-work in blue and white, the iumiture of tbe
bed and chairs being of the same. The adjoining apartment i0
called the Silk-Room, from the elegant painted silk with which it
is famished. Here is yet shewn as a curiosity a small bed, the
Idmitore of which is said to be lined with the shirts of King Wil-
liam III. who was god-father to the late owner of this mansion.
The offices forip wings on each side of the house, and give the
whole an air of grandeur, which the more strongly excites regret
at its present neglected condition. The gai'den has fared even
worse than the building, for it has been plowed up, and is now
cultivated as a field.
BoxFORD, ^Ye miles from Sudbury, is situated in a fertile and
highly cultivated valley, between two brooks, which unite a little
below it The parish contains ninety-nine houses, and 636 inha-
bitants. The town^ consisting qf several streets, carries on a
considerable trade in malt; and has a manufactory for dressing
sheep and deer skins* Here are two yearly fairs, on Easter-
Mouday, and December 21.
The church is a spacious building, ninety-fiv^ feet long, and
. fifty-two broad, and has a spire steeple. The porch on the south
side is of stone ; over the entrance are seven niches, with a number
of inscriptions now nearly obliterated. The town contains also
a free grammar-school, founded by Queen Elizabeth.
About a mile south-east of this village, situated in the parish^
of Boxford, Stoke, and Ossington, is Peyton Hall, granted by
William the Conqueror to Robert Malet, the progenitor of tlie
ancient family of Peyton, by which it was long possessed ; and
south-'
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161
aerly die reiidence of die Bennett %ul^, InlAewn fiuraHlioiina
BoxsTBAD «lMi, .9 fidfraid L Ihn mmt «al eitato «f 4he
ibbe^ ef Bury, fcnt ira aAerwwris giateil^ hy wkat bmmui «e
ice not infomed, to JUheit Ourlealoa, ndio iitaa^ eteintedl lif
ilie fioit parlinmevt of Edinurd IV. It iPa« given, mtk iome odMr
mnnois, toAiclnrd 0nke of Glonoeeter^ biotlMr of thnt monaNh.
Jt 4ras afterweidi t)ie leat of the Pookye. S^his eAeieat mfsobt
iijan fiaiifye(Nrend itidf inio tiie «orei»i-flouMimg faraneliee
hete, at Colaiabine Hnll inSkmwmtksi, nnd «t findley^ in the
.knndred of Bonnere.
BraBS, or Buebs, an inconeidenfale nillage etaahal oniltt
AoniE, in tiie plaoe mbm, .nocoidingr te ^GaMndos de fontiiMn,
«St £dnandwafl<arown«ElUilgofti>e£«iiUAnglen. Ovmnwnn
ibr cmcijii^ inA ^tfaone itfho f«reuiciiiMd4oiplnne die ooene of.
Jdat ^sremony at Bniy, bKveabMdyfaeHintaieL ItbanalUr
fmthf 4m JBoiy Tfcnnday .
Tlie neat chnrch and Bfite steeple wen bnaerly great oma-
jnenti to thia yiUvge; Wt.in 1738 tie .spire «aa eaten fine by
iightauig, end iNwned doma to the stei^le, vhieii was inicIi da-
maged. Vke Ml-teaies wen Ufccwiae eonsnaied, awl the belli
-Holfed, laatMttb on fte nMth aide of this olnieh lies 4beerose-
legged fignie of a knight, whom tradition reports to have been
named Comard, and to fanire aoU a i|nn in the paaah eatted Com
■flU, for A»nr-|Mnee, in the time of Henry lU. Mere are likewise
the moDnments of theBnera, who took their nanieaiirom this ^aoe,
BirABdiew, who died i» 1860; aadkaaaonRebert^ theMlewing
fear. Seveni indit idnnb of the Walgrave £yni)y are also interred
jn this ehnrchf an: Sir Richard Walgrave, Knt who died in
14m, and Joanna, his wifis, in 1406, to the inaeription on whose
4aab iandded--'' He Oat pcaya ibr oUmdi labom liMrhiBttelf/'^
Air Biehard Walgaan^ Knt and Jeama, hiawife, fhedMghtir
of Sir Thomaa Mondchensy^ Knt. who died, tfaefcimer in 14M,
and IheklterinlifiD/JUhrttd WalgMne^ and If ebel his ^ife.
Vol. XIV. M who
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mhoiktAia ld06; and Sir WiIIhub WalgATe, Knt. and Mai^
Wfaevor giving an acoomit oi- the antiqmty of the Walgrates^
infemw us, tbat they were a rich femily in Northampftbnahircf,
before the conqneat, at which time John WalgrarTe, resident th^re,
waa iU repreacntative. One Walgrave, a German, who came
over to England with William I. meting wHh him, proposed,
that if he wonld give him hia only daughter and heir in fuat*
riage, he would proeore a grant, from the Conqueror, to enaofe
to him the quiet enjoyment of all hia lands and poaaesaiotts, • The
English Walgrave, accepting the proposal of hia Gerklan nam^
sake, the latter obtained a grant from William, under hia own
Aand and seal, confirming to him, and hia posterity, aH his lands;
which grant, in the F^rench language, was in the hands of the
loida of thia manor in 1612. This fiunily of WalgraVe, or Wal-
degiave, reaided, lor many, generations, at Snudlbridge, in this
parish, now almost entirely demolished; but afterwards renMMred^
into the county of Essex.
A legacy of SOOOL waa left» by William Martin, Esq. of Lii^
coin's Inn Fields, London, in the handa of certain ttuateea, that
out of the interest^ among other thinga, the sum of 401. might
be annually paid to the vicar of thia pariah, and hia auccessot*
for ever.
BasNT Illbioh, a village and manor, belonging to the ances-
tors of Sir Henry Shelton, who procured, of King Henry IIL,
the grant of a maiket for it, long aince discontinued. His poste*
rity flourished here for many yean, but the property waa after-
wards aold to the fiunily of Cohnan. Dr. Colman, of Trinity
college, Cambri4g<^ built a fine parochial libnuy, at the end of
,the chancel, and well furnished it with books ; and Edward Col-
man, Esq. erected and endowed n neat alms-house, for six poor
people: but the last of that frmily, transferred the estate to Ua
kinsman, Edward Goat, Eaq.
Cavendibb, ia situated on the Stour, between Long Melibrd
and
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BlTfVOLK. I6S
ttid dure, and is remarkable for giving name to one of ihe mest
illostrioiis homes in Great Britain. A younger foraach of the*
Gernons, a family of considerable note in Norfolk and Essex,
being seated in this Tillage, of which they- were lords, assamed
the surname of de Cayendish, and produced seyeral indiyiduak of
great enunence. Among these, were
Sir John Cavsndi0h« who was bom in this plaee, and in 46
Edward III. was made chief justice of the King's Bench, which^
office he filled with great reputation till d Richard II., when the
people of this county, instigated by the example of Jax;k Straw
and Wat Tyler, rose in r^bdlion, under John Raw, a priest, and
Robert Westbroom. The chi^ justice falUng into the hands of
tiie rahUe, who were exasperated at the intelligence of the death
of. Wat Tyler, by the hand of his aon, iims dragged to Bu-
ry, and thoe his head being struck off, was set upon ihe
piUwy at the market cross. His remains were interred in the
chancel of the church of this place. He had two wives, by
whom he left issue, two sons and a daughter. It was his younger
son, John, one of the esquires of the body to Richard II. that
dispatched Waft Tyler, in SmithfieUI, for which serrice he was
knighted, on the spot, by the king, who also settled a pension of
401. on him and his heirs for erer.
Sir William Caten'dish, having in the reign of Edward VI.
and Mary, held various important offices at court, obtained a coft-
sidfifable portion of the possessions of the dissolved monasteries,
and thus Imdthe foundation of the snbse^eut splendid fortune of
his house. His son^ WtHiam, was created, by James I., Baron
Cavendish, of Hardwicke, and earl of Devonsbire, and was the
ancestor of the present ducal house of that name ; and from ano-
ther branch of the same family, descended the Cavendishes^
didies of Newcastle.
The church ai Cavendish, a handsome structure, wi^ a square
tower, is sud to have been built by one of the abbots of Bury.
M2 U
• Sec BttuUes, Vol. X, 175.
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In tkis ftimh, dost a lyiile onUhe road'to dare, U aa «lq;«al
Mat, built by — • HaHtfta, E«q. baakar, af li^ndoa. wkiab aai»*
ipandsan exteoiive and baiatiM jinispeet
Cbiltqn, vaa fumeily the reaid^nee of the ^Euaily of Craae,
qf atbifih 3ir Joha Ciane, Knt was croaled a baronel ia 1687.
This family, and conseqoently the title, is aov extinot Tlie eatalf
vas pnrobasad by Golding, Esq. of Mew Hovae, ia the {«-
riah of Posliagford, in whose fiunily it now oontianes, beiag: the
BfQporty of Cfeorge Golding, Esq. qf Thoiriagtan HsU, ia 4o
hondred of Blithbiirgh.
The ehapel of this place has long been converted, into a
^hatched cottage. The oater waPs, bniH with flint and vag-stoae^
the door and a window on the north aide, two smaD wiadowa at
t^ east end. «nd one in the sonth fronts aie afanoat tilie aaly rOf
piins ot the original edifioe.
CocKn«LD, CoxsnBU), or Cookvibld, oonaiati of the Mb*
aors of Cockfield Hall, whieh probably Ibnned part of the ptN
aessiMie of Bary ijbbey; bat Sir William flpsing, knt. dW
seised of it 42 EUaabeth; The other ia Earl's Ball, ao afM
faun its ancient proprietors, the Teres, Earleof Qarftrd* In tint
ftmily it eontinaed, till John, earl of Qxibrd, takiag part with tlif
honse of Lancaster, against Edward lY. focfcited his VM^
whidi were seized by that aionarch, and givea tp fau bMher
Kichard, dake of Glonoeater. In a few yean, howeTer, he m
scatored to his honors and possessions, by Henry VII. nhoja ^
assisted in wresting the crown from tiie same Eichard; iffA 4#y
were enjoyed by his suocessoia, ti|l the death of Aabrey d^ Vfns,
the last earl of that frmily, about the year 1710. Qoth ttunir
manoiB are at present Tested in Uchard )looi[e, E«^ of 11^
ford.
Edwardston was fonnerly a village of considei^alfe najt^« <#
account of the l^rds who formerly resided there. |a tbe tin|e of
Wiliiam the CoiujaOTor, it belonged to Herbert ie M(o9^ Caayjf^
or Montechensy. Of this fiftmily, Guarin, or Waryn, was so
wealthy, that h^ waa called the EngUah Crmans, and« according
to
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«» CH&ntol, dM wortk tw6 hunAred tlkkUmidf iMri;^ Tke brd*.
sliip, M l€tagtk, deto«ttded, Ij iMrriag«, to the Walgraves^ vbo
iofd it, aboat the year 1596, to John Brand, a clothier of Box-
ferd. It then became vested in the fiunily of Brand, and has
since pasted through several hands.
At this plaoe was once a religious house, a cell to the monas-
tery at Abingdon, near Oxford : but the monks were removed
about the year 1160^ to the priory of Colne, in Essex, which ob»
tidned therkq)i«pri8CiOft of the gretft tithes of this parish. It is
flow ^e eMafft of the Bishdp of Ely, to whose see it was annexed,
in exchange for some Valuable liiianors, by queett Elizabeth, in
1669.
Gi.SM8Foni>, was one of the manors possessed by Odo, Earl of
Champagne, when Domesday survey was taken; though the church
ef Ely had pesacsnions hove, as early as the time of Edward the
Coiifeswr. SMie reflta are paid out of Ihe lordship to that see,
and the inKabifatftii t^ exempted from servii&g on juries elsewhere
than at £ly. Glemsford is a very extensive parish; it has a
yearly &ir, on June 24; and the manor, at present, belongs to
Bichard Moore, Esq.
ttBueua, » large and very pleasant village, nearly a mile in
leagfli, tMk v^eh cireumstance it is called Long Melford, con-
tainaupn^iurdsof 450 houses, and 2200 itihabitaDto. It is situated
near the Stouf, andf has a yearly &ir on Whit-Tuesday.
The church, standing on a rising ground, at the north end of
this village, is a beautiful specimen of the architecture of the
fiAeeBth century, about «>)80 feet in length, exclusive of the
Mhool-heose at tte end. T4ie amaU sipare tower is of mora
modern MetibH iSitn the body of this stmctare. It con-
tiittft ittbttttttfetfts M individuals belotiging to various feoiliea,
wliich formerly Nourished at this place.
At the upper end of the north aisle, is an altar monument, to
the BMinocy of William Clopton, Esq. son of Sir Thomas Clop^
tai^ wfaosafiguMinarttoorlioiuponit He died in 1446. On
the front of Ae vktimmeiA is a bnms plato,. with a. lectin epitaph,
in old English characters, wbich shews, that however the virtues
M3 of
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19$ ftUFFOU.
ef the subject/ miglit entitle bim to the love of mankiiui, when.
•liTe, the muses did not much befriend him alter his death.* , ,
Uaden
* It is to this gentlemao, that a writ, issued by the court of chivalry, re-
Imtes. This curioos docament, which shews with what formality a£airs of ho^
nor were fertuerly adjusted, ii preserved among the Harleian MSS. (Ko. 1178/
and thus entitled in the catalogue, " A writ, in French, of John, D«kt of
Bedford, constable ef England, requiring John, Duke of NorldUi, and mai^
ahal of Eoi^and, to bring William Clopton, of Siifiblk, Esq. to answer in the
court qI cbivalrie, to Robert Eland, o( the county of Lincoln^ £m}. wbo
charged the said William Ck>ptpn with putting his seal of arms to a false and
forged deed.' It is as follows :
" Johan Filz, frerjc et ancle au roys, due de Bedford et d'Anjoy, cohte de
Richmond, et d« Kendal, et connestable d'Angletcrre, a notre trescher'cou-
tin Johan, duo de Norfolk, marseha] d'Aogleterre, sal us. Nona voi^a man*
dona et •chargeons, que vous fates arrester et renir detmnt nous^ o« notra lieV
tenant a Wes^ounster, a la quinsime de saint Hillar. prqcbiMn v^nai^, WtiJiam
Clopton, de contc de Suff. Esquire, pour adonques reapondra devant nqm^^ on
Dotre lieutenant, en la cour de chivalerie, a Robert Eland^ Esquire, ^e conte
de Nicholl,(Lincoln) dece que le dit Robert ad unqnes lui surmettra par voie,
d*arroes» touchant ce qu*ii faoxment et enoontre honest^ et geniileu^ d'armes,
a mis et appos^ le seal de sea armes a un faux et forge fait, auz domsfei da
dit Robert de Cib. «t plus, a ce qu'il dit. Remandanu par decant kioiu an
dit jour oa ioest notre mandement, tiwt se que vous en aves fait^. Bono^ '
aoaba le seal de notre office le 93 jour de.Novembre, Pan du regne 4u notr^
senior le roy Henry sisime depuis |^ conquest d'Angleterre septiesm^."
Whether the court came to any decision apon this serious charge, or whe*
ther any combat ensued, does not appear : but probably neltheri for we soon
after find the parties engaging in another court, and with arms very different
from those of chivalry. In Easter term, 8 Henry VL Williab Clopton, and
William Ga]yon> Esquires, brought an action lo the King's Bench, ogaiott
Roger Beroardtston,of K^dyngtop, in the C4»0|tty of 9a^olk» geptihfiani and
Robert Eland, of Ratbeby, in the county of Linpolii, gentiltoan, nod Eliva-
bethi his wife, for havmg caused to be pohliahed at Kedyngton and Melford,
two deeds, by virtue of which* the Stiid Robeft and Eliaabeth, claimed the
manor and advowson of Haustede, to the disturbing of the said William and
William, in the possession of the same, to the damage of m1. The afibir was
not determined in this court, bat referred to arbitraton, by whose award th<|
charge of forgery wis retorted and established agajast Elan^,
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" Vnkt. an. ^t$t mamiiiitot'of §»ej "mubie, lAthia aa ftsi^/ on
the north side of the oooiiniiDioii table, are interred Johp Clop*
Um, BOA of the ^rec^ding, aad hia wife Alioe Darcy. At their
heads are atiU remaining their portraHa, kneeling, painted small
in freaco, with the arms of their families on their dress. He was
sheriff of the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, 30 Henry VI. and
not long h^re his death, ' contributed to the repair, or perhaps
rebuilding, of the beaptiful ehapel, at the east end of the church,
now used for a school, as appears from the follo¥fing inscription,
in old £ii^li#h characters, on the battlements :
• '' Pray for ti^e sowle of John Hill,, and for the sowle of John'
Clopton> Esqwyre, and pray for thei sowle of Ry chard Loveday,
Boteler with John Ch>pton, of whoS godis this chajpperii em*
baytyUd,*hy his execotors. Pray for the sowlisof William' Cldp-
ton, Esqwyere, and Margery his wifis, land for all their parentis,
and chyldren. And for the sowle of Alice Clopton, and for John
Clopton, and for all lus chyldren, and for all the sowlis that the
said John is houude to pray ibr; wh^ch deed this chappel new re*
pare, A» lyni Mi>CCCC«IAXXXVL"
On.tiie right of the altar, is the splendid monument of Sir Wil*
liam CordelL Three Corinthian columns support the canopy, an*
dor which reclines the figure of the knight, in wliHe marble. In
the recesses, at the back, are four female figures, representing the
cardinal virtues. A long inscription in Latin verse, records the
honors md character of Sir William, who .was an eminent law.
yer. Speaker of the House of Commons, a member of queen
Mvy's Privy Council, Master of the RoiUs, and founded the hoa*
pitsl at Melford.
, On the outside of the pew, formerly belonging to the Marty ns,
aiip.many grotesque heads, carved in oak, and some ancient stones
in thefloor^ at the east end of the church, cover the remains of
various members of that family.
The font has a cover, curiously carved, with a pinnacle and a
cross on the top; and on the spot whence it was removed to itn
M 4 present
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Ahi0og§^ irithahbd^qfWiapiMiik
The north window nlUl eontma wm pniBled glia%
fnres^ and Lslia inicr^'on^ bnt nu j of tho pnai
|Mrto<^theM,kaebMihioko^» andcouwnoMi iaNfoAioodli
9i|f Ij Ihoir plaoe.
Vwy neariy udj^MMg to the eh«cby>ri» tliaAi t>» Hm|iiii4
apbimhriekboiUiog, beioiedwitlia waU. Ow the ealMMa*
i» inscribed* ThU Hospital was^kmidedk^ SkrWUIimm CmdeUi
knt. 1573. It is endewed finr a wardettj twelve poor ana, wu^
two WQMen, old and decayed henae-keepera of MeMud; and for
want of peraons of thatdeeeriptton in this Tiilage^ they are tkefr
to be tsken from Shimpiing^ ia this haadred.
Ohtthe east aideof Mdfoi^GreA, isilfe^oniHo»,eaQy,
apsdoas^ brick haiUiiig> in the style of the i^ of EUsaheM^
with Uror amall^reapd toweia in the front It was foiaieiiy- one ei
lhie.cpnntiy seatSi or pleasure-hoases^ beloagiag to the abheeef
Bory, and aftar the dissolatienef that moaaaterf> thiamaaop,^la»
gether with the advowaon of the churah^ waagmited te^ Sir WiUaaM
CcrdeU» 37 Hoarf VHI. To this giMt, Qnees Mary, in the
fim year of her reign, added the leads of the hoq^ital of Si Sift*
wioar, without the north gate at Bury, irtiioh Sir WiUiaBi aft*i^
wasdaaetded on the hospital eracted'by- him at lfeMiid& l^iag-
withoat issae» his estates devol?ed on Ma* sister, tbe wile e#
Richard AUiagton> Baq. and by the nuariageof their e^ child>
Jfary, were conveyed to Sff John Savage, whose son was raised:
to.the peerage, hy the title of Viseonnt Cokhester^. Jofaa, hi»
son, was advanced to the dignity of Earl Ilivecs. Melf«rd Hal)^
belonged' to-Mary, widow of the third earl, darii^ thi» civil war»
in the reign of €hariea I. whea, aa FnUer inlbrma na, it was- the-
Irat frnits of phinderiog in Bi^laad« The loss of the^ noble pro*!
prietor, in plate, money, costly hangings, and other rich famftua^
here, and at her otlier seat, at Sk Osyth, in Esaex, is estimated
by contemporary' wHtera, at the immense anm of 100,^9QL Att
this time^ Helford Hall lay under a ^rtgage^ to Sir John Cor-
delia
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ea ttvMkiw •! Ml* iMMi ia ifert
I Off 8ir Hmv^ nnWy wbc
A IMe ttt tlM Mrth of tt» okMbi. ip tfo oM oulriMi of
tetfwhioh Aoy, fvoini*
ftifr MM va^oMEly ilBloiliJ> m tbm% bflo HMord^oT ikm hsfw
In 48 Ifonry BL WUKu* de Uop^
aftdtWiignMlM^ 8irn».
MMfured ^e nanor of SiirtvteB^ by Mirying CMhoruM^
4bi«liter»«BiliriMiiii^o#Willb«MTl4e,oii BMI^ wWJM; 48
IK Bat U0 dwMWidkaili oontiiMeil f» temk, till Sir
»GiirlHilAmi»«ri[y*ngirt«r> anrio4 lo fiKr SioHii*!
4*Bawa Thi^oifyilngiyto^SWlk w1iodie4i« M81, imo'tW
#ilror Sir Thomui Bumf, Bmet Sooo ifto» tiii Mvohitlofl^ tlio
iMoBgodtoSirTfaoiiiaoRolMiioon; Imt hit gnukboD, ottl^
BBStnry,ooU>ilrtoioini^KMn^ irtiooirdMMAdiMi Kicii*
Bof^irliie piWi«»pooiwio>.
AttiMMMtiieiid oftlw^^tomitvaB old oob^ oilM JM^^fbrdt
Bbcr, i*whi w« 1— y tfafitiinwon of tJNi li>aily of Mtrtfii. tlo-
gcrMaityti, ■wr.ooi of ImMum Martyn.of Molibri,waKlont
Miyor of London, in 1567. His descendant, Roger.Mur^^ of tU»
pim^ in»oi««fesd ft^loMMti in- 161)7. Tlie bndljr i» exUaety
i m mw Hw rasidmies of — -*4ipoMiag» Ea^
seMNd BNMiiaffiM'irsvo'dog np' hoffo in m
^ni?et*pH; and in a fann-ysid, on Cranmer Green, b thiifarislbi
luuttoiBi ^MuHhas^aanod; UoeaMiMit IbnMrljrbeiongod
te.HacMoirfU'of at Fttsn now oommoldir ddMSti Aagnsline'n
nieMjarintfJF; «0 whsu irviir given, n4tk HoAoigib by Bridn
msA^ iUkn: ^nfieoA of tisiex, bel^ lio mwthed t4> repel tkoin^
mmmm oi tte Ikam and^M ivllM' bn^of Uddfei^ ^98U
It
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it i» a peenlnA' of-tiM^ibrdihikhop('8, ifh!^iM.9bif§!tntk4r(amr
^fcofcii^ bitt the mmw belonggio th» d^ <»i rhf to,
' £fTOK9jturiraNBYtATfjD^orSTOKBNEYtuaii>»iB ao itmemiintrf
to dirtingntsh it from Stoke Clare/ Stoke Ifiawidi. -Hmivts-
formerly a monastery of. apme teldbrily Moire th^ «>QN|aeft; Mi^
%e m4et with litUe, or nothing ef it afterwank «The ohnieh^
with its m^eetic iftteeple, is a nehle.slniGftiiPe ;. the lalSa'^ abovl
100 feet high* may be seep as iar off as Hsmidi,^ a.^diatanoe oi
twenty miles; vhile the high grounda, in i the vieiBifty of Ijiia
place; also command, a prospect of .thai; faarboar< Neylaod,'
though oontauung a mupb greater. number .^fbiNisei ia<biit a eha*
pel of ease to the chuvch of Stokes '.> • ' - . '
.\n the church of t^ik place are.sev^ haadaonemema-
qisa«» for the Howards. la the saath phrt> between the high al-
tar and ehpir, is interred Catheriiie, fiiat wife o£ Jeha /Upward^
duke of Norfolk, who fell at the battle ef 9dmnat.iiiL'wapput
•f thecanie of Richard IIL Her menament ia afssloiief with
this inscription : .
^* Voder thia stone is baried the body .of the right hoaoiaMa
woman, and ladle, some time wife aato the right high and ■dghfty
priaoe. Lord John Howard, Dttke of Netfeike ; aod oMther aala
the right noble and pnissant prince, LtwdThattaa Hi^w»d,,Dake
alsfliof Norfelke. Which ladie depaAad this present life^ Am*;
Dom. 1452/'
In this church is also buried Mars^uret^ the seoend wife of tha
same duke, and daughter of Sir John Chedworth» vho, after hia
decease, mamed John Norreys, £sf. aaddied about the ^th year
<tf Henry VII.
Giffbrd*$ Hall, in this parish, is the aeat and pfoperty ef Wtk
Ham MannOick, Esq. in whohe femily the estate has been vested
ever since the time of Henry VI. It was then parahased by Phi-^
lip Mannock, who, as appears by the femily pedigree, had pre*
viottsly resided at the neighbouring village pf Stc^.in the
ehtffch of which are some andent inscripUoas rslatiTe to ^UMnt
persoaa
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m
<0ut; thetalnaieekbyaWu g»leiray, wiiL io hate bewi bailt
kUie b«ginBuig «r tkemgn of Henry YUL by Pteter Gtfiiri »
dMtaHiclitMN&of AnMBoileA. Tlmi^b its«lyksftend«itly itf.
Asipenoi, mndLthe maamom inB probably tKen erected, H doee
not eeem likely tfast it sbould bave betn nised by a Giffatd, if It
was then in the poMcwion of tbe Mennecks. The whole is of
hncky the moaldiiigs of the windows, doors, and other omanentsi,
betq^ of the sanpe ^wteriaL Offosile to thia entrance, are some
remsitts of an <M chapel.'*
Tefdnmg £bi!C aiifiKeatly heleag^ to a ^n»tty of that nave.
^iQiam deTendrii^, had agiaat of a market and iair, at StoLe
by Neylaai, 31 Edward I, Abei^ the year 14^1, Sir WiUiaat
TfaHJfriagc left Alice, his daughter and.h^ir, who married Sir
John Howsrd, Knt the itfua^diateaaeest^ r of the dukes of Nor-
Iblk. Aom that ftipfy it devolred to the Loida Windsor^ and
after .the retonatimi, became the seat of thai of WiUiaaM. Sir
John WiiliMBs, Knt. and Ipni-mayor of London, in 1736, buiU a
fine seat herCy which, by pivpchase, became the property of Sir
William Bowley, one of the Uatfis of the admiralty* Joshua, hia
sen, ^Yo many proofs of conra^^ and eondaet in the naval ser-
viee;for jrUcfa he was created a baronet, in 1786. On bis deaths
m 1790, Tendring HaU became.the properly of hia son and sue-
. cemor. Sir WilMam Rowley, the present baronet,
Sim WiixiAV Ca¥EL, draper, and lord-mayM* oi Loadpn, in
1503, and aaeeator of the noUe £unily of Essex, was a native
flf Sti^. Of tUa gentteman, oar historiaas relatesome extraor*
dinsfy anecdotea. It is said, that ,ailer a splendid entertaaamen^
which he gare to Henry Yll. he concluded the whole with a
fie, iato which lie threw a nnmbcr of bonis, given by that king,
fffmney borrowred of him. On another occasion, to shew hia a£>
fectioa
•A«OBtb>waet ^rlew of iSbk cttMrsy, was ctcfaad hj I>r.Bebeit|, is 1779.
i» ffOmg of it is UIlcwim gifro, m Bnttoo't Afcbitectsnl Aati^iiities, Pvt
XVUL
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m
r Imiidb^di of pouMb, an4 fbttk H, 16 tlM U^r's hi^
ui A gfaas of wiiia No^lwitetiuidiiig Idi hytitf, lie triv mn
lirrcifaHy fleecei by Ad snorkiow Heiiiy ; Iral cMHtired to m«»
triete fdi^ iftdn, l^isdintrj «l MHMite, t# Aal he dwt
HtmBRED OF TBEDWESTRY.
Tlli» hmif^ n boinM ctt AeadntR, fcjr tli« hancb^^f fta-
Mr^.aM Ottrfbrd; «ffe tiie ^M:, By Mow; im lli« Bottii^ feylHliidk*
iMA; and ob IIi^ waBt^ bf TUkigoe. It cootstes iMr maiAM
AmItoh, anei^tly tte tovMip df tile dbhdt o# Baiy. ihto
Attillj' ef Calthorpe, whklr leeg redded il An^fotf Hall, be*
Mke esliftel, in the fertieil ef 0hp Hettry CMmtf^, IL B. iHto
tpAg^ in 1 W8, defiiiMi all hie eatilea «e ttMf Aile htfyatKMM^
Uf, BaitMtfa, %ili of Sir Henry Goagjb, of BdgbieloB, War-
w^AiMx^, on cofidMieii thai Idv noj^hew iheiiM aMtttte tftay Mf^
aaiee ef GaMfaoiye, lAieh iftm aeoofdiagiy eiMiplied wMl; Mi
ia 17M« he waa elevated to Oe peerage, by the title of Baiea
Calthoipe, ef Caltheipe, in the eonaty rf flofft&t. Bia* a^toeid
80B, ^hoaooceededhiadderbrether^ia IWt, ia4ep#etfeiff pi^
pfielar ef Aaipfaa.
The pait of Ampi<m HaM, afld. that ef liytefttMae, bdotfgteg:
te Malfaaaiel Lee Actetf, Esq. join; andtiie eniftera, aajH^tiie ia*
^ieaa Mr. Yevag^ tHfh a hannony, Very aavaual^ laiide a ae^
ble aerpeatiae river tiveagh both, and built a hfirge hlndaaaib
hndgfeever it, attheiif jeistexpeflee, by n^hfidir iheaua tiMy oinau
^beatedthdrgMiaaii> io'adi^titeeetb«^ MrLeiti
CMtterpe'a park^ the water forma a bend againat the dope of a
wood,
.» IW a ftrtber aeedcmt of ^ Wflllaai Cape1> a&d Ui aestieadintii tea
Beauties Vd. VII, a9d.
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•VflOLK. 173
Waod/ tvbich litt a wwj ioU« eibct, tnd " npoallie wliol«,^ con-
timet the aadMr jufti neiAimiei^ " thin rmr^ considering it i«
Ibnaed 4Kit of a trU&iiig rtrean, is one of the finest waters I hare
seen, in the gronnds of any private genlleman. Mr. Lee (the fa-
tiier of the fresent proprietor) has a shrohbery, of about twenl^
acres, cnt ont of his park, that is laid out in a very just tute. .
Hie iraler and scoop in it, are particiidarly beavtiful ; tiM irst
winds through a thidc planted wood, with a very hold shove; in
seine places wide, in ethers so narrow, thsl the oyerhaoging
traes join tiieir branches, and even darken the seene, which has
a charming eifect The haaki are every where uneven; lint
wild and rough, and covered with hnshes and shrubs ; thenafine
^gf^en lawn, in gentle swells, wiHi scattered trees and shrubs, fe
the hanks of the water, and seats, disposed with great judgment;
and atihe temination of tiie water, the abruptness, and ill eftet
of that eifeumstance is taken off, by finishing with a dry scoop,
which is aaasing beantilul ; the bed of the river is continued fiw
seme distance, along a skiing lawn ; with banks on each side,
phf ted and managed with great taste ; nor did I conceive that
weeping willows, could any where, hut hanging over water, havf
been attended with so beantUhl an elfeot, as they have on the
steeps of these slopes.'^
At Ampton is a cemfiirtahle alms-house, fiv poor, unmarried
women, fattb and endowed in pursuance of the will of Mrs. Do-
rothy Oallborpe, a maiden lady, of the fiunily of the present no-
Ue pioptietor of Anq[»ton. Her henefadion is commemorated n
the following inseripliott, on the front of Ae edifice :
MBCXCUL
Hoipitiqm bpo fandwit
Vir^o in virgiuiiQi tolaneor
Contiguous to the building is a walled garden, over the en-
trance to which is inscribed : 7am voluptati quam sahtu
The
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174 nvnoht.
ThestoMs lady, in consideration of* her onee bsrin^ MttddS ti
Biiry>left> by her will, to thai town; the ram 6fM(N. the intereit
of whioii, was to be employed in binding out poor boy^ apprentices^*
This snm^ however, fell short, ^notai losses in her estate, and bad
debts owing to it; beside which, it is to be presomed, that she
directed her charity at Ampton to be fir*t provided for.
Bavton, eidled Great BarUm, to distingaish' it from Little
Barton/ or Btrton Mills^ id the hundred of Lacklbrd, was for-
merly the lordship of the abbot of Bory. Part of the poases-
sions of that monastery, known by the name of Ot-pastbi^,- and
containing one hundred acres, was granted, 31 Henry Ylll. to
Sir Thomas Kitaon. It was afterwards the Mate V>f the and^M
family of the Cottons, who resided at NectOn Hall, in this pa-
rish. The manor, and a considerable estate, devolved to' Sir
Thomas Hanmer, Bart, by his marriage with thfedaaghter, and
heiress, of Thomas Folkes, Esq. and at his death, be6ame the
property of his nephew, the Rev: Sir William Bnnbury; Bart
who laid out the gardens, and impn>v^ .the grounds with great
taste. His son. Sit Thomas Charles Bnnbary, the present pro^
prietor of Barton, who has represented tho county of Snfibik, in
nine parliaments, built tiie fine large room, which loAns part of
this mansion.
Bradpield Combust, calld also BkBHT, or Burnt Brad-
HELD,' probably received its spmame from the destruction of
Bradfield Hall, in 1327. This mansion then belonged to the
convent of Bury, &nd was burned to the ground, at the time of
the violent attack made by the townsmen of that place on the
abbey and its possessions.
Bradfield is remaricable for being the birth-place and residence
of a man, to whom the community at Urge owes greater obliga-
tions than, perhaps, to any other living character. His indefati-
gable exertions for the promotion of agriculture, the main source
of the prosperity of a state, will entitle the name of Arthur
YouNO to the veneration of the genuine philanthropist, even
among remote posterity. The manor and estate of Bradfield
Halh
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•UFffOLK* I7j^
J^UT, At Best ^ this ^ffontleiiiaii, waspurcbiuMdi^ ly one of hit
MicesUmi, in 1690^ oi Sir Thomift Jomyn, of Riuhbcook. It
■tandt apoa a range of .high land, which niw through the whole
couvty. Two 8qMJlll>rooks« rifling in this .pa^h, take contrary
directions ; one passing to Bury, and proceediag to the sea ai
Lynn; thie other nuaiing to Lavenham, and fiiUing into the
ocQsa, at HMwif^i Notwtthitendiag the ele^alioa of this spot;
timber herethrives extremely well; and hating: been sonilHd^ttflly
^Mired for many years, Mr. Yoiuig's small poperty is beaalifallf
wooded with many ine Ireei. . In 1735, his &ther, . the lale Dr.
Yoqng» Ibmed an avenue of limes, which are now remaikkbly
beaotifiil ; and the present possessor has planted above forty then-
sand larqb, and other tiees» as nurses to oaks^ sown thirty years
ago ; so that it is likely to continue well wooded, for many yean
to come. In some of his publicatipns, Mr. Young has eiplained
the great advantage resulting bcm such plantation^ and espe*
cially from the more beautiful trees of an estate. H« has also
done something in the way of decoration, by water and shnib-^
heries, and much impvsved the old mansion, wbich contains a
copious and ^valuable libraiy. Reduced, after a lile of nacommon
acUvity, to a state of total blindness, the father of iaaproved British
agriculture, still devotes his time, with the aid of an amanuensis, to
the iUnstration of his fiivourite pursuit, with which, the uninif
paired fiteulties of a vigorous mind, are still iocesaantly engaged,
.He is conseq[uenlly, at present, without any £ftrm| but the fields
of his estate,, whei^ in his own hands, were the sci^ne of a great
variety of experiments, the result of which have either been laid
before the public, in his Anmals of Agriculture, oi: are reserved
lor a work, on which he has been occupied for many years.
In the neighbourhood of Bradfield Combust, are two other Brad-
fields, diftingaished by the additions of St, Clare and St, George.
The church of the latter stands in so elevated a situation, that
from the steeple, though <mly .66 feet high, may be seen sixty
churches in the circumference, which embraces part of Essex, Noi-
jblk, and Cambridgeshire.
6 At
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At SMVftSTtMW it Ae «aaft «f fiJwi Anilir, JBi|. «Ut
tboatlSW, mctad tht JmiM» wUeliJs t gaU 0M,4urf «»
iinnded it viftk iiaidbniie flwMimii. AiNnittbt tuw.tuM4ht
Bar. Bkhttd Bbaafey, MPtoref IbtyaMi, Imlit liiie^^iie ^ *r
kcstf^nttDB^at m the mwty.
FoBiiBAii Ar. Gbmovitb, « ruiifrdWi ibrtiietyh>Jii#fa»
iMf gained tVm m 1173, Ay BdbiM 4« Locy* cImT jvstm «r
SaslMi4, «t'«lM iMid erthe Muy ^Mtury H; •verAe EmI^
Lsiowtflr, the gwwrej of Ike feveigB tveopd -enf h^jFed ^ iiM«e-
belioiw seM. Neftr Aynm flooM, ibestebL viHes Ami •ery,
e«liieMiidteTlielleH[,are8liM U keeenAefiMee^tlieiriB-
lcraieiit TlMie aro naiDeMai t— rti, er beifefwe, deMMMMlet
tl» Seres HilKlRMB the BWiWef the tegeet^wder whiehitie
eesjediired thiA the ^enmnden were lateorad.
Ai this ybce is the eee*^ BirChaiies-Keirt^ «lioeeMher,
OMwEskiiNLp Ee^aavnedtheaMBeeflbmt, ui^xMipliiMe
viththe^U of kkaatiRid §<nadf«ilher, end mm qwted^fcmwct
kl'ie2.
The eharehiof thiefemhwMeiilaaeM»11M»
In, eeoweaed l^ihe uMdrertMMe of e ana who ^mm i
At FoRiiHAif St. Martin, eenetawdi one «til 4o he eeea im
e Bieedew, abopeta^nartarof amileeoiiliioftheehQMh. latMa
pariah ia the pleaaaait aeotof 4he reoter, ^ Rev. Dr. Old.
HBsaBrr, or HsiwasTT, waa iumaij the brdahip ef the al^
hot of Bury, h>y the gift ef Eari VMketel, and granted, M lieaiy
Vltl. to Theaaaa Baooa, Eaq. ¥raai the Baaeaa nho rended here
§nm the reigia of Heory U. to thai of-Charlea I.4t jpaaaedthroagk
▼arioQs haa^a, to Thomae Leheop, Eef. irhoee deaoandaat^ the
preaeDtpM^prietor^'haaaaiaBaiott here. The dmreb, a handaeoM
etroctarej wiiB erected by the Baoona; and ia it eereral ef thai fi^
aiily are inlefred.
In the chanoel of Great LiTBaifSBB ehnrch ia intaired the
Bev. William Martin, lather of «he mil known antiqaaiy, kdme$i
Tom Martin, of Palgrave. He died in 1981,.«ged 71> a|id a i
9
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SUFFOUL 177
was erected to his memory^ and that of his hsAily, by hia
mm, then the only survivor.
The benefices of Gfeat and Little liyermere are consolidated,
and aie ia the gift of Nathaniel Lee Acton, Esq. who is also the
lord of the manor.
Pakenham is remarkable for having contained the seats of two
fitmiliesy elevated in the seventeenth century t0:.<the honour of
baronetcy, but both now extinct. The one was that of the
Springs, descended fi?om Thomas Spring, the rich clothier of
Lavenhara, and the other that of the Ashfields, who resided at
Netiier Hall, in this parish. John Ashfield was the first high
sheriff of Suffolk, separated from Norfolk, 17 Elizabeth; and was
the ancestor of Sir John Ashfield, of Nether Hall, Knt. created a
baronet in 1626.
RovQHAH was given to the abbey of Bury, by Earl Ulf ketel,
and gianted, 34 Henry VII. to Sir Arthur Drury, in whose family
it continued till 1640. ^
Kaugham Hall, formerly part of the estate of the Drurys, is
now the property of Roger Kedington, Esq. In this parish is
also the manor of Eldo, otherwise Old Hall, or Oldhaugh, as it
is ityled in the most ancient records. It was a grange of the .ab-
bot of Bury, was granted by Henry YIII. with other large pos-
sessions to the Jermyns, and now belongs to M. T. Cocksedge,
Esq. At the north-east comer of Rougham church, is an ancient
monum^t of Sir Roger Drury and his lady, the daughter and sole
heiress of Sir Robert Naunton. They are interred beneath a flat
stone, adorned with their figures in brass, about four feet high,
and this inscription in black letter:—
Hlc jacet Dnt Kogus Drary miles qui obiit. .... die Mens. • • •
Anno I>oinmi MoCCCCo et Margeria Ux' ej' qae obiit iiij die
Mens Septeb* Anno Domini MoCCCCYo quorara aiab*, &c.
This is supposed to be the most ancient monument of the
JDrurys that can be ascertained. Its preservation, as of many
4»ther8, is owing to a pew baling been built over it. If pews, as
Vol. XIV. ^• Weevsr
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178 BVTttfLK.
Weever complains, hide many monuments of the dead, tfiey can*
not be denied the merit of having saved some from destruction.
On the north side of the chancel is a mmral monument, to the
memory of Sir Robert Drary and his lady, the youngest daugh-
ter of Sir William Drury of Hawsted. From the inscriptioti it
a^j[)ear8 that she died in 1621 . The date of hib death at the age
of 82, is left incomplete, thus 162. . . .
Two singular ptirchases, which tend to IHtiStratd the manners oi
the higher classes, betweeli two and three hundred y^ears sigo, are
recorded to have been made by a lady of that ikodly. By" inden-
ture, dated 10 Henry VIIL Sir William Wftldegmve, Rnight, Sold
to Mai^garet Drory, of Rongham, widow, the wardship of Edmund
Wrest, to be married with Dorothy Dmry, her daughter. By an-
other indenture of the like date, it appears, that the same lady
bought of Robert Radcliffe, Lord Fitzwalter and Egremont, the
wardship of Elizabeth Day, one tj( the daughters and heirs of Ro-
bert Day, late of Sterstone, Norfolk, deceased, whom she married
to her second son, Francis.
RnsHHROOK, the manor of i^ich Ibrmeiiy belonged to the ab*
bey of Bury, has been remarkable since the dissolution for the
family of Jermyns, * who resided at Rushbrook Hall, and pro-
duced many persons of considerable eminence. Sir Thomas Jer-
myn was privy counsellorand comptroller of the honseholdto Charles
I. and his second son, Henry, was master of the horse, and eham-
beriain to the queen. The exertions of the latter in behalf of the
king dmring the civil war, were rewarded with a peerage; and in
1644, he was created Lord Jermyn of St. Edmundsbury. When
Charles had fallen into the hands of his enemies, this nobleman
attended the queen, to whom he is even said to have been pri-
vately
* We find that iboat the saiddle of the 16th ccntory, Edmond Jermyn,
Eiq. gave an annui^ of 40L per aoa«iii« out of the manor efTotlHey, in
Liuoolntbiie, for the relief of the poor of Bory. At Eoshbrook Hall there ia
a good portrait of this gentleman, in a strail-waifted doublet, and a roond
bonnet, adorned with ftowert and jewels, dated A* D. 15^ i «tafiff turn 50.
His benefaction it recorded on the painting.
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gOFPOUL 179
nifelytHiViiA totiie oMyfawt, tiulirat«iivloyedby ChvlM II.
^Aob^p kit eicik in wiow emb«iiiefl> in ivhich he aoqmtted
UoMdf M mndi to the t«ti8(aeti<m of fail BiMtar» tluft in 1660,
be was elevated to the dignity of Earl of St. Alban'e^ and ap-
pointed Lord ChMkheriain of Hie king's hovaehold. He died
wiJiioal iteiie, and the earldom, being limited to him, became ex-
tMMt Hia title of Losd Jennyn dfiMended to/Themaa, the eldest
^9: •f his brother; and Henry, the second son« was created
Itemi of Dofer by Jiunsa 11. but cfied in 1708, without issne.
TV* Amily oonelnded inheira geneiaU the eldest of whom ear-
ned this seat and estate to the family of DaverB, by marriage
jfiHk Robert only son of Sir Robert Davera of Rongham, who,
in 4682, was created a baronet The tiU^ became extinct on the
deeea#e of Sir Chsriea Qavera, Bart in 1806, when the estate da-
V5|lf ed to Robert Rnsfafaroek, Esq. whose family was once in pQS«
sjossjion of this place, fam which it darivea its niime.
. Bn^skbroffkffoU is an^ble tpaciooa mansion, moated round, with
% plainfim^ to the north, and two winga ronniag to the sonth,
and forming three sides of a aqnare. The park belonging to it is
t^ exteouve.
This place witnesaod sopie of the festivities occasioned by
Qaeeii Elizabelh's visit tn the county in 1678, when, aa we are
told,'' Sir Robert Jermyn of Roeshroke, feasted the French em-
iMISflon twa;i^veral times, with which charges and coartesie they
stood marvellpudiy contented."
J^ the <;huroh jb^ several mitnnip^ts of the Jermy ns^
. At W£i»S£TiiAlc, as WjS are infinwied by Camden, were for-
medy f^^o^d gi^eat qoantitiea of potsherds, and plattera of R4>-
n»ii.m»ni4a9toe, some of which had in8<;riptions; also ashes,
bones of she^ and oxen, many horns, a sacrificing knife, urns,
^ qtl|ier relics. H^re also Sir Richard Gipps, in 1701, met
with the head oi a R^ian spear, a sacrificiog knife, Tessels,
toins, bridu, and paterae, one of which was inscribed amisi m*.
N3 That
* C«U«ct. Boriev.
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tW SCTFFOL&
That geutleman, descended from an ancient and respectable h^
mily in this county, and well versed in its antiquities, resided here.
He died in the manor-honse, in 1706, and was buried in the church
without an epiti^h.
WooLViT is a considerable village on the road between Bury
and Stow Market, the parish containing 108 houses, and 096 in-'
habitants. After the dissolution, the manor, advowson of tha
roctory, a warren, and other lands, in Elmswell and Wo<4pit, wera-
graiited to Sir Robert Gardinw, as parcel of the posscssioas of
Bury Abbey. The lordship of the manor now bekmga to J<>sliua
Grigby, Esq. of Drinkstone. -'
At this place is made a very white kind of brick, e^utl n
bdauty to stone; hence denominated Woolpit brick, of which
most of the mansions recently erected in this county are built* *
The church is a fine Gothic stmcture, but has a mea» spive.
The north porch is highly decorated, and has a room above it
Over the entrance are five niches, with ornamental finials. A pe-
culiarity which I have not elsewhere observed, is a nid»e in each-
of the two buttresses, at the comer of the diancel.
In a close near tlie east end of the church, is a spring, wfaicb
is still called our Lady's spring. Tradition reports, that the
church formerly contained a shrine to the Virgin Mary, to whiclr
pilgrims resorted, and that there was a chapel near the spring ; but
no vestiges of it are now left. The spring is qoadrangidar, and
bricked, and supplies a large moat with very dear water.
From Camden's derivation of Woolpit, and the synonymous
British Odium, Dr. Gale is inclined to place SUinnagus here ra-
ther than at Thetford, because the numbers agree better, and also
on account of certain large and deep ditches, which he conjectures
to be Roman remains. Woolpit is certainly an ancient pkce ; Ro^
man coins are frequently discovered there ; the distances seem to^
answer, and other circumstances of names to concur.
HUNDRED^
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tftJTFOLX. ' ISl
HUNDRED OF BLACKBOUEN.
On tlie north Uie bnndred of Bladcboiirn is separated from Nor-
'- folk by the river Case ; on the east it is bounded by the hundred
«f Hartismere; on the south by Stow, Thedwestry, and Thingoe,
mud on the west by Lackibrd.
IxiroRTH, the only market town in this hundred, is but a
'mean place, containing 133 houses, and 827 inhabitants. Its
' inaiket is on Friday, and it has two fahv, on May-day, and the
' 18th of Oetober. At this place was formerly a priory of canons
regular of St Augustine, founded about the year 1100, by Gil-
bert de Blnnd, or Blount, in a pleasant valley near the river
•Thety and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It received many b&-
inefaetioM, being valued at its suppres&iou at 2801. 98. 5d. ac-
cording to Speed; but, as Dugdale says, at 1681. 19s. 7d. From
' a Bonnmeatal inscription in the church, on the north side of tb^
alter, it appears that the possessions of this house were granted
by Henry VIII. to Ridiard Codington, and Elizabeth bis wife, in
exchange for the manor of Nonesuch, in Surry. Qn the spot where
the priory stood, a neat mansion was built by the Norton family,
to whom it for some time belonged.
The other places worthy of notice in this hundred are :
AsHFiELD, an obscure village, but remarkable for being the
- birth-place of the late Lord Thurlow, and his brother, the late
'Bishop of Durham. Their father the Rev. Thomas Thurlow,
▼iear of this pariah, married Miss Elizabeth Smith, whose fa^
fflily had long resided here, at a seat called the Lee, and died
in 1762. Edward, their eldest son, was born in 1735. He was
educated under the auspices of his parent, and at a proper ogc
.removed to Caius College, Cambridge, but did not obtain a de-
gree. On leaving the University, he entered himself of the In-i
ncr Temple, was called to the bar, and remained unemployed,
N 3 'and
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182 sovrou.
and onknown, imiil his abilities were eaUed into aetimi in tha
Douglas cause.* He now attained to snch professional distinc-
tion^ that he was lypointed solicttor-gonoral in 1770, attorney-
general the following year, and lord-high chancellor in 1778; on
which occasion he was elevated to the peerage, by the titk of
Baron Tbnrlow of Ashfield. In April 1789, be resigaod the
seals, which were again deliTored to him in DeceiBber» the samo
year. In J 786 he obtained the lucrative appointaent of t^ar ol
the Exchequer, and was afterwards created Baron Tbnrtew of
Thurlow. But the most remarkable period of his life was the epooh
of his mi^esty's illness, in 1788 andl789. His integrity then ahoiio
conspicuous; and his speeches on the v^pency qnestion, will«i9*
main a record of nnshaken reetitode. That declaration whkli
may be said to have electrified the House of Peers;—" WI191
I forsake my king in the hour of his distress, may my God kr^
sake me l*' is worthy of being engraven upon Us t<wib. 1^
1793, disapproving the course adopted by the ministry of that
day, he again resigned his high oiBoe, and passed the nenaindtr
of his life in dignified retirement The talents of Lord Thuriow*
even out of the line of his profession, were so «plendi4> thai Or.
Johnson himself appears to have been afraid of him. '' I w^uld
prepare myself," said the great lexicographer, '' for no man ipi
England but Lord Thurlow. When I am about to meet him I
should wish to know a day before." f His lordship, who waii ne«
ver married, died at Brighton, Septemb^ 12, 1806.
His next brother Thomas, who embraced the eleri^ pmfesmn^
was elevated to the see of Rochester in 1779, translated in 1787,
to that of Durham, 'and died in 1791. He loarried Anne, dajBgb*
Mr
* On thifl occasion he wu coonsel for Mr. Dpnglas, and received a chal-
lenge from Hr. Andrew Stoart* who had been one of the guardians of the
Puke of Hamilton. The meeting took place in Kensington Gardens, and hii
antagonist remarkedj that Mr.Tbarlow advanced, i|nd stood 19 tq him like ^
elephant.
t Qosweirs U(e of Jphoson, VoL ly. p. S4S,
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SUFFOLK. 183
ler of William Beer« Esq. of Lymington^ in the- county of South-
ampton, and his eldest son^ Edward^ succeeded^ on his uncle's
demise, to the harony of Thurlow.
Barbwell, is said to have given name to the family of Berd-
welle, who resided here as early as the time of William the Con-
qneror: and Sir William Berdwell, a celebrated soldier^ whose
efiigies in painted glass still remains in the north window of the
church, died seised of this manor in 1434.
Barnhah consists of two parishes, St. Martin's and St Gre-
gory's, and formerly had two parish churches : but that of St*
Martin has long been in ruins. Near Bamham and between this
place, Euston, Rushford, and Thetford, is a row often or eleven
tumuli, which, according to the conjecture of Mr. Bloomfield, the
historian of Norfolk, mark the scene of the sanguinaiy engage-
ment between king Edmund and the Danes in 870.
At CuLFORB, formerly the demesne of the abbey of Bury, is
the chief country residence of Marquis Comwallis, the widow of
one of whose ancestors married Sir Nathaniel Bacon, half-brother
to Sir Francis. It is a neat comfortable house, agreeably situated
in a park. It was built in 1591 by Sir Nicholas Bacon, the first
baronet of England, eldest son of the lord-keeper, and half-bro-
ther to the lord-chanc^lor ; and was given by him, with an estate
of lOOOl. per annum, to his seventh son Nathaniel. This gentle-
man was created knight of the Bath at the coronation of Charles I.
and married Jane Meautys, widow of Sir William Comwallis, by
whom he had a son, ^ho died withoul issue, and a daughter, mar-
ried first to Sir Thomas Meautys, and afterwards to Sir HarbotUe
Grimston, Bart. Sir Nathaniel was an eminent painter ; and some
specimens of his art still exist at Gorhambury.
The small neat church of Culford was built by Sir Stephen Fox,
whose daughter was the wife of the third Lord Comwallis. Within
it IS buried Sir Nathaniel Bacon, whose monument is adorned
with a very good marble bust of him, and an epitaph, which in-
forms us that he was well skilled in the history of plants, and the
art of delineating them with his pencil. His lady is also interred
N 4 here.
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184 saiFOUu
faere^ irith an inscription, giving her a high character, as hsTiof^'
supported and saved from ruin two ancient families into which she
had been married.*
Elmswell. The church of this village, which has a ver^^
handsome tower, stands on an eminence, commanding a truly de-
lightful prospect It contains an elegant mural monument for Sir
Robert Gardiner, Knt. who, as appears from the inscription, was
chief justice in Ireland eighteen years, during the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, and died February 12, 1619, aged eighty years. The
monument is in very good preservation ; the figure of Sir Robert,
nearly as large as life, and well executed, is in a recumbent pos-
ture, and his son is represented as kneeling at his feet The
remains of the pedestal of a stone cross, which appears to have
been curiously carved, are still to be seen in the church-yard ;
adjoining to which are alms-houses^ built and endowed by the
above-mentioned Sir Robert Gardiner, for six poor widows.
At this place was one of the country seats belonging to the
abbot of Bury.
EusTON, a village, pleasantly situated on the Lesser Onse,
was formerly the lordship of a family of that name. It after-
wards descended to the family of Pattishall, and from them to Sir
Henry Bennet, who, for his adherence to the house of Stuart,
was appointed secretary of state by Charles II. and created
Lord Arlington, Viscount Thetford, and Earl of Arlington. He
built Euston Hall ; and *left an only daughter, Isabella, married
to Henry Fitzroy, one of the natural children of King Charles II.
by the Duchess of Cleveland, who was created by his father Earl
of Euston and Duke of Grafton, and was the ancestor of the pre-
sent noble proprietor of Euston.
Euston Hall is a large commodious mansion built of red brick,
and destitute of superfluous decorations eitlier within or without.
Tlie bed-chambers are on the ground floor ; and tlie principal
apartments above^ according to the ancient fashion, derived from
the old castles, which were so constructed for securit}\ The
house
• Cough's Camden, II. 163.
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SOFFOUU 185'
"htfaae is Borroimded by trees of nneoramon growfh, and of the
most healthy and luxuriant appearance: near it glides the riTer
Ooae^ over which is thrown a neat and substantial wooden bridge.
The scenery about this mansion combines the most delightful
assemblage of rural objects, and is justly celebrated by the author
4yf the Farmet^i Boy :
Vfhtit noble Grafton spreads hit rich domaim
Round Eutton's water'd vale and sloping plains ;
WIit:rc woods and groves in solemn grandeur rise.
' The estate of Enston is of very considerable extent ; its cir-
cumference being between thirty and forty miles, and embracing
a great number of villages and hamlets.
On an eleyated situation in the park stands the Temple. This
elegant structure, designed for a banqueting-house, was built by
the celebrated Kent, under the au^ices of the late Duke of Graf-
ton, who laid the first stone himself in 1746. It is in the Gre-
cian style of architecture, and consists of an upper and lower
apartment ; forming a pleasing object from many points of yiew in
the neighborhood of Eustoa, and commanding an extensive pros-
pect.*
Fakenham Wood, near Euston Hall, is perhaps the largest in
the county, and covers 314 acres. The late Duke of Grafton was
a very able and successful agriculturist. Including his park of
14d0 acres, he kept in his own hands upwards of 3200 acres.
FaRenham, a small village)' situated in a pleasant valley, wa-
tered by a branch of the Ouse, is the property of the Duke of
Grafton, and furnished the scenes of several of the pieces of Ro-
bert Bloomfield. In this village, nearly opposite to the church,
is a cottage, in which the poet's mother was bom. A moated
eminence
* A view of Boston Hall, and another of the Temple in the park, are
gite« in ^ortr 9ud Crefg'i illutirative Vkw$ rf tht Wwkt of Robert filoiW
jitld. t.
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186 sQvrou.
•ioB fomerly destroyed liy, fixe :
Tho BiMt raoMMii*, the dwelling ii no mort !
Itt Dmme deootes itf meUncholy fal1«
For TilUge clilldreii ctU the spot Bnrat Hall.
Near the inner margin of the moat still exist several decayed
trees^ the remains of a circle of elms^ that, according to the poet,
once completely surroonded the mansion. This he describes as
the residence of one of the characters introduced into the tale of
the Broken CrutA, and has probably taken up his ideas of the
ancient hospitality of the place from some tradition carrot in the
neighborhood ;
— — » his kitchen smoke
Thai from the tow'ring rookery ap%rard broke.
Of joyful import to the poor hard by
8tiea»'4 a glad sign of hospitaJi^.*
HoNiNQTON will in future be celebrated as the birth-place of
Robert Bloomfieid, one of the simplest and most captivating of
our pastoral poets. A cottage near the church was purchased as
a bam by his grandfiither, and has been gradually improving into
a neat and comfortable dwelling. It was formerly covered with
thatch ; but a new roof being necessary at a time when straw could
scarcely be procured, the poet, to whom it had devolved, with
great reluctance covered it with tiles, as he lamented the loss of
its original simplicity. During the harvest of 1782 or 1783, the
village of Honington suffered severely by fire : four or five double
tenemented cottages, the parsonage and out-houses, a fiurm-house,
and all its appurtenances, were reduced to ashes in little more
than half an hour. This cottage was immediately in the line of
the flames, and after being on fire several times, was saved al-
most
* Two views of Fakenhan will be foond in the work mentioned in the pre«
ceding note.
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9fmotM. 187
Mr. Austin, of Sqpitton, mud bit men. Tlit poeC't miliar tfMtt
kept m telmol at ihe eottage, and fled ftov the diHietring aeeno
iHto llie fieMi» lonRmnded Vy n graop of her isftuii Bcho|ftn> in
fiiU penmnottihat her dwelling had heemne a prey to the flama.
Contrary to her esqpectation, howerer, die finiahed her cateer
nnder ita friendly roof; and was buried on the last day of 180^
close to the west end of the chareh, near her firat hnabaad, who
diiedofthesmall-poaL.* Aatene was erected to her meaMxry by the
late Dnke of Grafton, and iqion it la an inacrqption written by the
Bo¥. R. FeUawea. earate of Mteyihani.
At
* BkomieldL alUr alladiiig to tbc fiunily diilieas occaaioned bj tbii di^
etae^ noticat hit {Murem'i deatb^ «nd the aeneral liorror ubich thU contaaioy
fiesv'n rMtDr*d then sU,
And deitia'd <nm of ripet ^ourt to fall*
Midiiight beheld the dose uf all his paia^
Hb gmwt was clot'd when midnight came again ;
Ko bell was heard to uM, — no funeral pray'r^—
Ho kindred bow'd«— no wife> no children there i
Hi horrid aalnre coaid hMpire a dread,
that eat the beoda of cisfeem like a thread.
The hamble chttBeh4ow'r hi|^ seem'd to shew«
lilaaiin'd hy the treasbling light below ; ,
The solemn night-breese struck each shiv'riog cheek|
Beligiooa rcYereace forbade to speak :
The starting sexton bis short sorrow chid.
When the earth mnimnr'd on the coffin lid ;
And AUling bones, and sighs of holj dread.
Sounded a leqoicm to the silent dead*
«
Widi Ibii poem, written in £iTor of vaccine inocnhuion. Dr. Jenner was
f» well ple«ed, thai he presented iu aathoi with a durable memorial of his
JPoraaeataamoirof thelile ofthepoet, and farther particulars respect-
ing his faiaily, the reader is referred to the Ulnstration of his Works already
4Mted. 9
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18t BnnuL
At Lanoham is tke wftfc of Sir Patrick Bkke, wIkm frdMr
WM oraated a bannrt in 1772.
At Little LiterMerb, or Livermor£> is an elegant, seat
Vnilt by Mr. Coke, by whom it was left to the Dnke of Grafton,
who Isr some time resided there. It next became the jnoperty of
Biftist Lee» Esq. who considerably improved the house, snr-
roonded it with a large paik, and made it his seat. This gentle-
man's fortune was augmented by a prize of 30,0001. in the lottery.
His son, Nathaniel Lee Acton, Esq. is the present proprietor.
The grounds are flat, but well .wooded, and adorned, wilih aJne
artificial piece of water, akeady described in treating of Ampton
in the hundred of Thedwestry.
At Norton, near the south-western extremity of this hundred,
Henry VIIL is said to hare been induced, by a credulous kind of
avarice, to dig for gold. • He was disappointed in his search, the
Testiges of which were still visible a few years ago.
Sapibton, a pleasant village, is worthy - of notice only for
having been the place where Robert Bfc>omfield commenced his
career as the Farmer^s B&y, a situation winch introduced him to
an acquaintance with those employments which he has delineated
with such felicity and coirectness.
The church, like many others in this county, is covered with
thatch, from which circumstance it has more than once been nearly
unroofed by the pilfering of the jackdaws. In the church-yard lie
)>uried Mr. Austin, the kinsman and master of Giles, (the Far^
mer^s Boy) Mrs. Austin, and nine of her infimt children. The
manor belongs to the Duke of Grafton.
At Stowlangtoft resided Sir Simonds D'Ewes, one of the
most learned and indefatigable antiquarians of. the sevententh
century.''^ Part of his mansion-house, called Stow Hall, was pulled
down
* The MS. Jottrnal of the life of this gentleman, by himself. In the Britieh
Uuseum, ^) eontaini some ftxy cnrioos particultn, that tend to throw light
on 4 part of English history, and many anecdotes not generally known.
(*)HarI.MSS.No,646.
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SUfFOLB* IM
^nn 9ermk years ago ; bnt the lemmM, in 1782, nceived great
additiiMud .iofioveoiiHits fitw ila pmeni poaaetflor* Sir Walter
Rawlinaoiif
Sir'Sincndf hsviog minnCed down most of tbe facts that be records soon after
tbej bappened* bU namtiTe carries witb it a degree of antbenticitj, to wbicb
aodern. bistury oanoot Jaj clain. It extends to ^erj minvte particolars, in
libichlie intenreaves jeveral matters relatire to his fHends, tbe public afiairs
mi thlB nation, and of Eorope in genenJ. It reacbes'from bis birtb in Becnn*
bcr l^Of, to Mxy IfiM,- ending abraptly.(«)
InAe HarieiBn library (t> is "tbe lineal descent abd pedigree of tbe «ii>
meat lamily of S«es, or Bes Swei^ sonetiue lords of tbe dition of Keisel in
the dotchic of Onelderland, wbicb familie, by tbe recesse of Adrian P*£we%
tbe true beere tbereof, into England, in tbe reign of Henry VI U. is now
eeated at Stow Langtoft in the coonty of Saflblk, by tbe English eontractiona
enly of tbe name of Des Ewes into D'Ewes," written by the hand of Sir Si«
nsonds; and another in Latin, illamiDated with the arms beantifnlly painted.
Adrian D'Ewes died in London of the sweating sickness in 1551, leavmg
4bar sons, Gerard, or Chniet, James, Peter, and Andrew. Tbe portraitures
ef Adrian, and bis wife, Alice Ravenscfoft, were, in tbe window of St. Mi*
cbael Bassisbaw oburcb in London, engrared by Wcever, whh a Latin in-
scription.
- Gerard, or Gkrret, was the stationer who Irred at the sign of the Swan in
St. Panl's Chureb-yard, Irom 1569 to 1584, whose rebus was a house with
two men in a garret casting tfrai at dice. ({) He purcbaaed tbe manor of
^idnes^ in Upmtnster, Essex, and died In J 591, leaving Paul, bis son and
iRir, ''One of tbe six clerks in Chancery, who sold Gaines, and bought Stow
Hall, at Stnwlangtoft. Tbe figure in armor of Gerardi in brass, on bis grave*
stone, in tbe chapel at Gaines, is delineated with tbe Latin inscription In
Weefcr's Funeral Monuments : ($) and we are (old in tbe octavo History of
Essex,' (I) that this monument remained in Uproinster chapel at tbe time ef
its being taken douru and rebuilt by Sir James Esdiule.
Sir
(*) To this are added his will fai English, written by himself, dated March
a8k 16f6 $ a translation of his will from English into Latin, dated Septem-
her 19, 16S9 ; and another will drawn up by himselt in Latin* dated July 31,
t6^U ^th an imperfect transcript of it.
(t) No. 581, f. 934.
(t) Ames, StO. Camden's Bematns, art. Bebta.
ii) p. 653. (D VoL IV. 386.
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IM nwUBVL
BmUsmi, irho adieiilcd it fimni hw fMm, Ok ThaamB, Lor4«
mfkjmt of liQttdbii n ITU, hf iAmk tbe iilM>le pamh mt pw*
diMed in 1760.
The
8fif Simondi wtt te wn •£ Vua\ D*S«tt bj hit wife SimUmi, dsogUfli
and tole bcirattirf Bkhltfi} SMModtj Jitq. of Coidn, a fettmlet of Cluiidr
•lock* in tbo oounty of Donet;, whore h» iroa bom Doeember 1$, i60S. Ilo
«M odaeolid ia tbe fcbool ot At Bdmuid's Bofy ; oad ot the age of n&v
teen ww admitted a fellow-oonuBonot of St Jofaii't College, Cembridfo. A$
eighteen bo bcfMi to eoHoct matoriali Ibr a ooncet and cooifleto biatoty of
dfoat Brbain* in wbieb be ipent tbirtoon jroan ; and the awpucwpt nmaonf
of bit life» abew bit attontteo lo pwwrfo tbo binoiy of bit awn^hnor TSti^
naliirally recommendod him to Ibonotioo of Sif IU>beti Gotten and Mr. M-
den^twoof tbogtoatoiticbolinof tbatage. Tbeesampleoftbefonaerirat
IbUowed bty bis friend in the care with which be digeited the great eollecliooa
aiade by bin, and now preNTved in the British Muieaoi. His literary ea-
fBgonents> however, did not interfere with hit public wnrices. He waa
Aigjb ibariff of Suflblk in HS9 i m tbe long partiaoMnt the IblkHring year bo
Has elected a hn^gm for Sndboiy ; and in Jnly ]#41« cseatad abaionet
On the breaking oatof the dvil war he adhered to the popnlar «d^ and
took the solemn leagoe and corenant in 1643 ; but this did not preennt^bia
being tnmedont of tbe parlianient house by tbe army in 1648. Ftom that time
heeeoms to hava^ven bimaelf up entirely to tbe prosecution of his studies and
literary dedgni, ** tfaoee greater labors," as be calls them, conceiriog himself
not to be bom Ibr biaMelf alone, aoo(|rding to tbe ^d saying so iuniliar to
•him r Melnu mmri fmnn liU aieare. He coUatod and traascribod several an-
eient records and moounent|» partionlaily tbe Bkek Book tf lA« fieohd|Ker.
wbieb he bad tfaoogbls of poblifbing, and hie transcript of which remab^ in
the British Mosenni. A. copy was left by Bir William Degdale to the 4sh-
Sioleaa Museam, and was printed by Heame, in two ▼olnmeai at Oxlbrd, 17t9,
lh>m a transcript given bint by tf r. Gravei^ of JIickleton> and the Tariops
readings and notes of D'£wes at the end, marked with his .initial, all the
while professing not to have oonsolted tbe original in the Eicheqner. He
compltmenU dir Simonds with tbe epithet I'n tifif reMtt miiiliwfmai^ Tbd in-
dastrioosWeever acknowledges himself mnch beholden to bim. («) All dial
Sir Simonds paWished m- lus lilb, was a speech deltveved in paiUamen^ on the
ana^ity
(*) Fan. Mon. p. S08| 397, 660,718, te
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HCTPlFOiK. 191
The chuith^ irfaich is a Imnd^otiie Mfldfaig^i ililidt withm a
dcmbl^trenctred' camp ; and in a 4e1d- dbout Haifa mile fHm h^
wait foaad, in 1764, a pot Int! of Roman eoina of the loHrvr empire,
^ In a fiurm called Red Castle, in the adjoining parish of Pakttiham^
a fine tesselated pavement iras disoorered.
At
antkioity of CiiDbrf6g6» which be meited agaiart OdM, in-ra Mcid«rtil
^elMrteia Acf'HMM oT Cmmii«i0 in 164i9»> m krjiinf coktidiet ; an ooomiod,
whta-wa dioaM.I»w iisiaaUjfr«ipsoltd te «w«k««ial l|ie iBfiMa^
. htUlm fHSI^ ^l>^ ^ ctaUM|ng« aboat 4ia«t. The Brief Diaoonne'cgo-
oening tbe power of Pariiaiiicntin eases of Judicature, 1640, is still in dis-
pute between D'Ewes apd Selden.
Sat Sinumds died April 18, 1650, m bis 48di year, and was sacceeded ia
bis estate and titles by hil son Witloogbbj* to wbom his Aitber's Jowiiab of
PMameatwen dedieattod, on their paMlcalion by Us eoodn, Faal BP£wes,
Biiirer«»«IM]eTemple^oDaolflwai8Mnd'a bKotbtr, Biehard. He^waabn-
: nadmtbOiOtavbof^nrl^lfeigMtaBdXifbgriafwi^aasiitbatu
lb«ali a aobla nsoaamwme bb DMmery, (^) hot this is contiadicted by Mr.
Goo^^lCcflid* II. p» 161^) wfao says, that there is no memorial of him extant
aa the chorch, and that the register of the time has not been presenred. He
caaaed arms and inscriptions to be annealed in glass, and pat into d» windows
of Stow Hall, to shew the descent and matches of hie fiuaiiy. (t) He married,
lets, Anne, daaghter of Sir William Clopton, of Kmitsrell» Kat. Inbis will^n
> IdSStp ke wea. net dBletftined wbeia 10 be buried, bol left it to be where bis
wife determined herself to be intetred. He also left a Latin epitaph for
. botfa^ with cUreetions that it should be inscribed on abrass plate, to be placed
apon their tomb. Their imae was six sons, and several daughters. To
these in soccefsipn. Sir Sioionds beqneathed hts, '* pretious librarie/' his
coins, aotographs, &c. with an injanction to keep tbem all together, under the
penalty of forfeiting ISOOI. with the ^library, ^« to his wife, or other sar-
viving children, and so to bis brother Richard ; sabject to tbe express condi-
tion of letting it be free of access to all lovers of learning. From his de-
* Keadams it was probably pmchsaed by- the earl of QxiDrd. Tbe piccares at
Stow Hall, bereft to hit son Adrian, or to his owobrotbef and sister.
Among
(•) Suffolk TraT. second edit p^ t56.
t These are preserved in Harl. BUSS. StS. f. 141*
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192 fUF^OUL
At Troston 18 Troiion Hall, the aeat of Capbl hsjortfEmi^
a gentleman well known in the literary world. It is one of those
nansions of a former age whi<A give an idea oi comfort, and hos-
pitality rather than of cold magnificence. It contains a copioiw
library, and the proprietor has been at considerable pains to mako
eyery i^ipendage consistent with his own pecnliar taste. To this
end, he has inscribed almost every tree in his garden and its vi-
cinity, either to names of classic celebrity, to snch as are en-*
deared by the ties of kindred and friendship, or are veneimUe
ibr the snperimr virtnes of the pemons.who hove them. Thss.we
find Homer, Demosl^enes, Cicero, Miltoai, and many othan; a
large elm is denominated the Evelyn elm, after ihe celebrated
antiquary and planter; and to commemorate a visit to Troston
Hall, of the great philanthropist Howard, in 1786, a lanrel was
planted, and now bears his name. Bred to the bar, and still oc-
casionally exercisii^ his professional talents at the quarter ses-
sions and assizes for the county, Mr. Uoft heM reisKeSy .in Ihc^
more pleasing porsuit of the belles ktbts, and especially poo^
try ; astronomy also constitutes one of his fitvoorite recreatiotiB.
His works have been chiefly on legal and political subjects. He
is not only an author himself, but has proved on various occasions,,
the warm patron of literary talents in otheni;andto him $ke pub-
lic are in a great measure mdebted, iar the introdastion of the
Farmer's Bay to their notice.
Before this estate devolved to the family of the pretfent passei
sor, it belonged to that of Maddocks. It was purchased in T68D,
by Robert Maddocks, Esq. of whose father is related the follow-
ing anecdote, which exhibits a remarkable instance of the Anctn-
AnM»ngtb« DQiMcoas tnmcnptimBde by or for him, sod preserved in tha
Harleian Library, are the following relating to this ooanty :
The original register of Bary Abbey, entitled Cn/iU for the Pitaneer'a
«se.
Another register of the saote house, entitled Werictmtt*
Collections for ihe County of Suffolk.* . .
• Bibl. Topog. No. XV, Pref,
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BtSFVOUL (M
ttiou of ftaily greataess. He in Mdd to liave been descended
frm the Mtddoekei of Wale8» who fiNrmeiiy poBsessed the so-
TereigBty^of thai prineipality ^ but tbe same combinatioiiB of
erents which dqurivod them of a en>wn, reduced him to extreme
diatresB. Though he codd boast of a regal ancestry* he was ac^
taally obliged, at tbe age of thirteen, to traverse the distance be*
tween Wales and London, on foot, friendless and alone, in search
of empbyment On his arrival in town, having heard that Cheap-
aide was the most likdy place to obtain what he wanted, he re^
paired thith^, and after some time, observed a merchant soil his
shoe in crossing the street Pull of ardour for any circumstance
that might give rise to employment, he availed himself of this«
and immediately ran and cleaned the shoe. The merchant, struck
with the boy's attention, enquired into his sitoation, and having
heard his story, took him into his service. After some time, ho
was employed in the ooanting'^honse ; and in the sequel, became
a partner in the firm> and acquired a considerable fortune.*
At TrostoD was bom, in 1713, Edward Capbl,^ the maternal
unde of Mr, lioft, a writer distinguished by his commentaries on -
Shafcspeaie, and by his beaattful edition of the works of that im-
mortal dramatistf in 10 vokimes 8vo. on which, as hesays in the
dedieatioBy he had bestowed the attention of twenty years. In
his iatrodndioB, Mr. Capel annouaoed his intention of publishing
a further work on the various readings of Shakspeare, with com*
mentaries and remarks. He was proceeding in perfect security
with this plan, when a host of literary dramatists, with Stepliens
at their head, adopted his ideas, and using greater expedition in
their researches, laid the jMioadsed treasures prematurely before
the public. This unexpected stroke nearly staggered the critic,
when OB the very eve of the completion of his labours : and though
they had occupied nearly forty years of his life, he had not the .
satisfaction of seeing the result of them in print He died ou the
Vol. XIV. 0 24th
^Illttttrfttionft of Bloonfield^ p. 46, 47. where likewise is » view of Trostoa
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2ith Juiiiary, 1781, and it vas not till ITSdythat Us iVbtef mmi
Various Readings of Shakspeare, madd ita appeaMace, in thoM:
qoarto volumea. Mr. Capel was also the e^tor of a yolooie of
ancient poems intituled Prolusioiis, and altered AfUhonp €md
Cleopatra as acted at Drury liSne in 1758. He held the office of
deputy inspector of plays^ to which is attached a salary of 990L
per annum.
West Stow Hall, in the parish of the same name, a spaoioim
brick mansion, formerly surrounded a quadrangular court, was
moat^, and welt adapted, by its intwior axraogwient, to hann
mal customs and festivities. Its builder is unknown, but from th#
armorial bearings on the porcb^ it is presumed to have been eraob*
ed about the beginning of the 16th century, Ti0 ams are tkoae
of the princess Mary> the wife of Charles Brandan, Duke of Suf-
folk. The building is now much reduced in siae, and used as m
iana-house. The embattled pediaient% diamondnihaped tracery,
and finidi statues, are chiefly entitled to> notioe, as curious aad
nnusnal appendages in buildings of thn order. In this maoMn,
a laige collection of armour was Ibnneriiy.pveaerTed.^
.From a mural monument in the chwrch of WeM .Stow; its^
peais, that the manor, in the time of Edward III. belimged to tlia
fiunily of the Crofts. It aflttwanls. ftanedpart ol the Tast pos-
sessions of the abbey of Bury, after tho diteJiffion of wluchi^ it
passed through the hands of the.KitBon8, Baeona, Frageniy and
Fowkes, and is at present vested in Matqnis CormraHiik
HUNDRED OP HARTISMERE.
* Hartismere is bounded on th^ west, by Bla<^kbonm ; on the
north, by the river Waveney, which parts it from Norfolk; on the
east
* An etching of West-Stow HmU, ii given m Britton't Architectural An*
liqaiti6i,PMtXVL
6
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SUFFOLK. IK
tut by the hundred of Hoziie ; sad on the south, hy the hnn-
dreds of Boemere and Claydon, and Stow.
In tiie year 1779, this hundred was incorporated with those of
Hoxne and Thredlin^, but no house of industry has been erected,
as it was found impossible at the time, to raise 16,0<XH. the sum
required for putting the act of pailiament into execution. Se-
Teral parishes hare, in consequence, built workhouses for their
own poor; and this plan is considered by many, to be equally, if
not more beneficial, than if they had erected a house of industry,
as they were impowered to*do.
Haitismere*contains one borough. Eye; and another market-
town, Botesdale.
Eys, situated on the eastern border of the hundred, is almost
sarrounded by a small rivulet, whence it is said to derive its
name, which signifies the island. Abbo Floriabensis describes
the town as situated in his time, in the midst of a marsh ; tmd
farther relates, that the river had formerly been navigieible to it
fipsm Cromer, though then only to Burston, twelve miles from'
Eye. In corroboration of this account, small rudders, iron rings.
Slid other tackle belonging to ships, are said to have been from'
tone to time discov^ed in the neighboring fidds. It contains
390 houses, and 1734 inhabitants, whose principal manufiictnre is
that of bone fcice. This town was incorporated by King John,
and has two baillfis; ten princtpdl burgesses, and twenty-four com-
mon council-men, with a recorder and town-clerk. It sends two
members to parliament, in the interest of Marquis Comwallis,
to whom the greatest part of the town belongs, and who receives
from it the tide of baron : the number of voters is about 200,
the right of election being in the corporation, and the inhabitants
payii^ scot and lot The market is on Saturdays, and the hie
on Whit-Monday.
The streets of Eye are narrow, and the houses, in general,
mean; but the church is a large handsome structure. On tiie
east side of the town appear the ruins of a Benedictine monas-
tery, founded by Robert Malet, on whom William the Conqueror
O 2 conferred
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196 SUFFOLK*
conferred tlie fordship of Eye, irith all its a^endage*. Witb
the assent of that monarch he built this convent^ and gave to it
the church of St. Peter, in Eye, with other churches, lands, ii«
berties, and franchises. Its possessions were greatly increased
by subsequent benefactors. In 1138, Stephen confirmed them to
the monks, with a grievous curse on all who should violate their
property and privileges.* Among other possessions, these monks
had the site of the episcopal see at Dnnwich, till swallowed np
by the ocean ; and brought from that place St Felix's book of the
gospeb, which Leland saw written in great Lombard letters, of
high antiquity, by which, under the name of the Red Book of
Eye, the coounun people were accustomed to swear.
This house was originally a cell to the abbey of Bemay, ui
Normandy, so that neither the prior, nor any monk, could be
placed here without the consent of the superior of that monas-
tery. Nor could the founder, or his heirs and succesaors, patrais
of this house, upon the death of the prior, interfere with its pos*
sessions during the vacancy ; but in token of their dominion, they
used to place a porter at the gate, to be maintained out of the
revenues of the house, and who, at the instalment of the next
prior, received five shillings to buy an ox. Richasd U. released
it from foreign dependance, and at the dissolution, when the aa*
nual revenues of this monastery were valued at 16IL 2s. 3jd. its
possessions were granted to Chsrles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk.
At this place was also a castle, anciently belonging to Robert
Malet, whose father accompanied William the Conqueror to Eng-
land, and on whom, as mentioned above, that monarch bestowed
the honor of Eye, comprising 120 manors, or the greatest part of
them. This baron held the oifice of great chamberlain of Eng*
laud under Henry I. and was a great benefactor to the town ; but
being an abettor of Robert, that king's elder brother, in his at-
tempt upon the crown, his estate was confiscated, and himself ba-
nished the realm. This honor was then conferred on Stephen,
Earl
* Siepheu^ charter is preserred in Selden*! work sn Tilfaes^ ch«p« 11*
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SDFFOLK. 197
Earl of Boalog^e, who afterwards ascended the English throne ;
he left it to his natural son, who dying without heirs, it reverted
to the crown. It was given by Richard I. to Henry, Earl of
Brabant and Lorraine, but was again in the king's hands, 9 Ed-
ward I. and ao continued till 4 Edward III. who granted it to his
brother John, Earl of Cornwall ; and on his death without issue,
the lordship and honor of Eye were given, by the same king, to
Robert de Uflbrd, whom he had created Earl of Suffolk. With
the death of his son William, the family became extinct, and this
honor once more returned to the crown ; after which it was con*
feired on the De la Poles, Eark of Suffolk, with whom it re*
nudned for some time. The honor and manor of Eye, are now
▼ested in Marquis Comwallis.
Id 1781, some labourers digging in a field near this place, dis*
oovereda leaden box, containing several hundred Roman coins and
medahs aD of the purest gold, well executed and in high preser*
▼atiM, chiefly of the emperors Arcadius and Honorius. They
were worth about eleven shillings each, and near them was (bund
a quantity of human bones.
BoTSSDALE, an abbreviation of Botulph's Dale, is a market
town, bat ill built and small, containing only 61 houses, and 56-5
inhabitants. It receives its name from a chapel dedicated to St.
Botttlph, the pother church of which is Redgrave, about two
miles distant. This chapel having been for many years disused,
has by means of the subscriptions of the inhabitants and the
neighbouring gentry, been substantially repaired, and fitted up
for divine service ; besides which a provision has been made for a
salary to the master of the free grammar school, for a sermon and
prayers on Sundays. This school was fi>unded about the year
1676, by Sir Nicholas Bacon, and is irith the dwelling house at
the west end of the chapel. The master and usher are to be
elected from Benet College, Cambridge, where Sir Nicholas was
educated. He also bequeathed 20L a year to that college, for six
•ch^lars out of this school, to whom likewise. Archbishop 'fm-,
0 3 niaoa
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198 SCFFOUC
nison it said to haye left by will six pounds annnairy. A new
Bridewell has recently been erected here.
Botesdale has a market on Thursday; a yearly iair on Holf '
Thursday ; but whieli, according to the charter of Henry III. by '
whom it was granted, ought to be held on the eve and day of St.
Botulph, that is, on the 17th and 18th of May ; and a statute fair,
three weeks after Michaelmas.
The villages worthy of notice in this hundred are,
Broome, where is a fine old mansion, which has long beeM
the seat of the noble family of Gornwaliis, a fiunily not less il-
lustrious for merit and talents, than for rank. Its founder was *
Thomas Comwallis, who served the office of sheriff of Lon- '
don in 1378. In the reign of Henry VIII. Jphn ComwalUs was
knighted for his valQur and conduct at the sic^e of Morlaix, in
Britanny, and ^pointed steward of the household to Prince Ed-*
ward, afterwards Edward VI. His son. Sir Thomas, being high
sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk in the last year of that king's
reign, raised a considerable force in behalf of the claim of his
sister Mary; who, in gratitude for his assistance in placing
her upon the throne, nominated him a member of her privy
council, treasurer of Calais, and comptroller of her household:
His grandson Frederic, was created a baronet in 1627. He
distiqguished himself by his adherence to the royal canse, at*
tended king Charles in all his military operations, and at the bat-
tle of jDopredy bridge, in particular, he rescued Lord Wilmot^ who
had felleu into the hands of the enemy under Sir William Waller.
He accompanied Carles II. in his exile, and that king, after his
lestoration, in reward of his services not only (^pointed him tr^
surer of his household, comptroller, and privy counsellor, but
created him, in 1661, a peer of the realm, by the title of Lord
Comwallis, of Eye. His grandson, Charies, third Lord Com-
wallis, was first lord of the admiralty, and Lord Lieutenant of
Suffolk, under William III. To him succeeded his son Charles^
the fourth lord, joint post-master genend, and pay-masler general
sf the army, in the reign of Geoi^ge I. He ha4 a numerous fa-
mily.
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SOFFOLK«* IdS^
oily, aiMtg^Kom yrete Claries, the fifth kurd; Eiwtrd^ who
cfmhraced the mifitaiy'profeisioii, and was in 1762, appointed go-^
vemer of Gfbntltar; and Frederic, ^constituted in 1750 bishop of
Litchfield and Coventry, and translated in 176B, to the archie-
piscopai see of Canterbury. Charles, the fifth lord, having been
piiviously a]^pomted constable of the Tower of London, lord liea-
tenant, andcastos rotulomoi of the Tower Hamlets, was in 1753;
treated Viscount Broome, and Earl Coruwa]lis,in addition to his lor*
mer title. Of the issue of thb nobleman were Chwles, the second
earl ; James, the present'bishop of Litchfield and Coventry ; and
William, an admiral, and distinguished ornament of the British
navy. Cliarles the second earl, was, in consideration of his splen«»
dM services as a soldier and a statesman, advanced in 17d3,
to the dignity of Marquis Cornwaliis. His eminent talents caused
kirn to be selected for various appointments of great difficulty, and
Hie highest importance. He crushed the rebellion in Ireland, ne«
godated the peace of Amiens, and having been a second time inr
vested with the office of governor-general of the British posses-
sions in the East Indies, he died in 16Q5, at Gauzepoor, in the
province of Benares, and was succeeded by his only son Charles;
the present marquis, who is also colonel of the East Sufiblk mi*
liHa.
Btowne Hall is said to have been erected by Sir Thomas Co^n«
wallis, whose portrait hangs in the dining-room there, setat 74,
1590. This mansion, built of brick, with curiously ornament*
ed chimnies, still retains its stately appearance, and though very
seldom visited by the noble proprietor, is in tolerable repair. The
great hall, or dining room, exhibits a perfect specimen of old Eng-
lish grandeur. It is very lofty, wainscoted with oak to the
height of about ten feet, without ceiling, the timbers of the roof
hetng finished like those of churches. A large window, embel-
lished with the various arms of the family in painted glass, occu-
pies one end, and at the- opposite end, over the entrance into the
room, is a gallery. 'Below this gallery is the butler's pantry, se^
parated fiK>m the room, and having a flight of stairs on each side.
0 4 Above
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200 ■ovrouL
Above the WMOscot am ivhole length portmtt lyf QiHai Mujr
and her conaort Philip of Spain^ James I. OliTer Cromwell, Sir
Bfephen Fox and his lady. Lord Burleigh, and the late Dnko of
Grafiou ; and over the gallery is a whole length of a lady m a
riding dress, attended by several Italian greyhounds, and her
horse in the back-groond, said to rq>resent Anne of DeuMlk,
queen of James I. On the staircase leading from the hall to Hie
present dining-room, are portraits of Qneen Elisabeth, and Maiy
of Scotland, Sir Thomas More and his wife. Lady Bacon, and
three children, and a distant view of the old hall at Colford. The
present dining-room contains nine fiunily portraits, naiked with
the names and ages of the perscms whom they represent; besides
which, there are several others in different apartments, as wdl ae
Bumerons paintings of varioos degrees of merit, all more or less
injured by damp. The most snmptaoos remains of the fermer
splendor of this mansion are in the ehapel, which is on the
gronnd^floor, and the bay-window of which looks upon the lawn.
The seats are famished with cushions of silk ; that for the mi«
nister is of rich purple velvet, embroidered with gold, and maik«
ed with the date 1550. The body of the chapel is separated
from the part appropriated for the servants, by a finely carved
Gothic screen, and is hung with tapestry, representii^ varioua
scenes ia the life of our Saviour. The Rev. Mr. Broome, chap«
lain to the grand&ther of the present Marqnis, was the last cler-
gyman that.officiated herc^Several of the ont-offices of Ihin
stately mansion, are now the residence of cottagers.
In the chancel of the church at Broome, are seyeral monuments
for various members of the 6||iily of Comwallis. Sir John, who
died at Ashridge, in the conpty of Buckingham, in 1544, is in-
terred beneath a marble to|nb four feet high, upon which Hcs his
figure tu armour, with a white staff in his hand, and a greyhonnd
at his feet Beside him is the effigy of Mary his wife, with s
hound at her feet also. Near this monument is another, on
the north side of the ohancel, for Sir Thomas Comwallis, Knt*
pqd ^^^ ^ ^if^# W^^ ^^ur effigi^. In th^ aude adjoining i§
sthiid,
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WFFOUL 201
ttthM, Ibt HeuyCMminJIis, Bm|« who is repreieated itt armour,
kMoliBgr* witlioatdate^aiidthkiiiftenptioii:
I entred only that I should go out^
He that is born, most 6je, there is no doobt
Mendlssham, formerly a market-tdwn, situated in a de^
Biiry soil, near the source of the river Deben, contains 179 houses,
and 1051 inhabitants* The place itself is mean, bnt the church
Is a handsome structure. It was given by King William Rufus,
to the abbot and convent of Battel, in Sussex, who bad the im«
propriation and advowson of the vicarage till the dissolution*
M endlesham has a yearly fiur on the 21 at of September.
Towards the conclusion of the 17th century, an ancient silver
crown, weighing about sixty ounces, and conjectured to have be-
longed to one of the kings of the East Angles, was found at this
place. A gold concave ring, with an inscription in the Sclavo-
nian, or Runic character, was dso plowed up here in 1758.
Camden supposes Mendlesl|am to have been the residence of Dag*
obert, one of the kings of the Heptarchy.
Palgravs. In the porch of the ehurch of this village, is in<
terred with others of his fiunily, the celebrated antiquary, Tho-
mas Martin, better known by the fiimiliar appellation of hone$i
Tom Ufartm of Palgraoe*
This lordship anciently belonged to the abbey of Bury, and in
the west part of the parish, was a chapel of St John Baptist,
subordinate to that establishment, where five secular priests re^
sided and said mass daily.
Redgiuvb, was one of the lordships given to the abbey of
Bury, by UUketel, Earl of the East Angles, who fell in 1016, at
the battie of Assendun, in Enex, with Canute the Dane. Alter
t)be dissolution it was granted by Henry VIII. in the last year of
his reign, to Thomas Darcy, from whom it soon came into the cele-
brated fiunily of Bacons. Sir Nicholas Bacon, lord-keep^ to
Qmeei^ Elizabeth, made it his seat; and his descendant. Sir Ni-
cholas
» See Beauties, VoU 1^1. Norfolk, p. 9^0.
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7n 9awwouL
duAam, ims etmtod by Kiag Jtrnw I. the pi^mkr BttvBet of
England, June 22, 1611. By one of his sucoeMora this estate Wt0
sold, toward the conclusion of the 17th, or the beginning of the
18th century, to Sir John Holt, lord chief justice of the King's
Bench, in whose family it continued till it became by marriage the
property of Admiral Wilson, the present possessor.
Redgrave Hall was built of stone by Sampson, abbot of Bnfy,
in 1211, and was one of the villas belonging to the prelates of that
monastery. The house was rebuilt about 1770, by the latetlbw-
land Holt, Esq. who also embellished the park at an expen(% of
SO^OOOl. in such a manner as to render this one of the inost beau-
tiful spots in the county. The mansion is a spacious handsome
structure, built of Woolpit brick, and the centre, which projects,
is adorned with a pediment supported by four Ionic columns. Tli'e
park is charmingly wooded, and is adorned with a fine piece of
water in front of the house. " In the evidence-room here,*' says
Sir John Cullum, " are preserved many very valuable manu-
scripts *."
The church at Redgrave was a few years since adorned with a
neat steeple of white brick, and likewise new paved, and orna-
mented within, chiefly at the expence of the late Rowland Holt,
Esq. It contains some monuments, which for beauty of marble
and sculpture, are scarcely exceeded by any in the kingdom. Iti
tlie Tight aisle, is a black table monument, upon which are the
recumbent effigies, in white marble, of Sir Nicholas Bacon, the
elder brother of Lord Verulanl a:nd his lady, executed by Nicholas
Stone, at the expence of 2001. with this inscription ; — '' Nicholas
Bacon and Anne his wife. She di^d in her 68th year. Sept 19,
< 1616." At the west end of the church are several mural tablets
for other individuals of this family.
In the chancel is interred that excellent judge. Sir John Holt,
whose monument is said to have cost 15001. He is represented
in white marble, sitting in a chair, in his judicial robes, with the
figures
« Cullum's Hawtted, p. 238.
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/
igwta tK >«rtafc% mA Meggy €» uilhi mi^ oHml T«o
iki^ 1 ^^^^ ^^^ ilrnrr ■■ilir whirh kn ■■ iMtod V»>
4atMtf^ \ft the MliBliii, JMinifliw, 6m the p«
littlfiAIk* Bailey:
CoBttliarii pcrpetni;
liberlads ac Legun Anglkanim
AMertans, Vuidicis, CmtodU
Yigilia, Acfis «t Intiepidi.
OflnM^ieaarito
PoniL
Die Ifaftis Vto 1709« labUUis eit
ez Ocnlis nostris.
Katvs 30 Decembrisy Anno 1640.
AMmg-tiie menorabilia of Redgnve H may be obaeired, thai
IlioaiaaWolaey , afterwards tiie &bmhi8 carduial and archbialiop of
York, wae institiitod to this rectory, Jmie 8, 1«M)6, on the preaenta-
iMtfthe aliiratand eonvent of Bory.
Rs&i^YdFi^LD is remarkable only <for a monastery of Bene*
dkliBe mmSy founded there in 1130, by Manaaties, Earl of
Gtnmos and Emma bis wife, and endowed by them with the
Btaor of tys parish. At the dissokition this house was Talned
M 671. €a. lid. and was granted 28 Henry VIII. to Edmnnd Bed-
amgidd.
Of^k buMmg there are still eonstderaUe remains; part of it
asv caQed the HM is a fiurm boose, and the ehapel fonns the
pviA cJinrch. The manor is the property of Alexander Adair,
Thwaite was the residence of the fiunily of Reeve, of which Sir
George
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M4 flOTFOLK*
<jl«orge Reeve, aUas Wright, Knt. waa ereated a baronet in 1661.
This family is now extinct.
Westhorp belonged, wben Domenday Survey waa taken to
Gilbert de Blond, and William de Ellingham, or Elmham had the
grant of a market and &ir here, in 1371. Sir William de Elmham,
Knt. died poaaeaaed of this manor, in 1403, and it was the pro-
perty of William de la Pole, when he was beheaded in 1448. It
was afterwards granted to Charlea Brandon, Dnke of Soflblk, bro-
ther-in-law to King Henry VIII. who, with his royal consort, re«
sided here at the noble mansion of Westhorp Hall, which is now
demolished.
The cloister, the chapel, with its painted windows, and the
original fumitore, were kept up till about half a century ago,
when it was entirely palled down. During its demolition, it waa
visited by the late Mr. Thomas Martin, who, in a note left
among his papers, says : — '* I went to see the dismal ruins of
Westhorp Hall, formerly the seat of Charles Brandon, Duke of
Suffolk; The workmen are now pulling it down as fast as may be,
in a very careless and injudicious manner. The coping-bricks,
battlements, and many other ornamental pieces, are made of
earth, and burnt hard, and are freah as when first built: they
might, with care, have been taken down whole; but all the fine
chimnies and ornaments were pulled down with ropes, and crushed
to pieces, in a most shameful manner. There was a monstrous
figure of Hercules sitting cross-legged with his club, and a lion
beside him, but all shattered to pieces ; and the painted glass is
likely to share the same fate. The timber is fresh and sound,
and the building, which was very lofty, stood as erect as when first
built It is a pity,'' he adds, with a feeling of justly excited in-*
dignation, " that care is not taken to preserve some few of our' an-
cient fabrics ; to demolish every piece i^old architecture is quit^
barbarous/'
HUNDRED
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SUFFOLK. 306
HUNDRED OF STOW.
Tlu; himdred of Stow is bounded on the north by Hartismei^^ .
on the west by Blackboum and Thedwestry^ and on the south and
east by Cosford, and Bosmere and Glaydon. The only maik^
town in this hundred is,
Stow-mark£T^ situated nearly in the centre of the county,
at the junction of the three rivulets, which form the rirer Gip*
ping. In 1801, it contained 273 houses, and 1761 inhabitants^
who hadinoreased in 1811, to 2006 souls, inhabiting 401 houses.
The market on Thursday is well supplied ; and its fiurs are on .
the Frfday in Whitsun-week, June 29 ; and a lamb*fair on the let
of August
Stow-market is a thriving town, and contains many good and
even handsome houses, especially about the market-place. The
church is a spacious and beautiful building, with a square tower,
surmounted by a steeple 120 feet high, which, though of wood,
has a light and elegant appearance. It contains a peal of right
bells, and a good organ. In this churdi are interred several in*
dividuals of the fiunily of the Tyrrels, of Gipping HaU, in tUa
handred. Here is also a monument for Dr. Young, once vicar of
this place, and tutor to the immortal Milton. The oontignoua
parish of Stow-upland, which has neither church nor chapel, is
now consolidated with Stow-market, but they have still distinct
officera for each parish.
The connty meetings are chiefly held in this town; and here is ,
a manufacture of sacking, ropes, twine, and hempen, which baa ,
succeeded that of stnfib and bombazines. Being well situated for
the berley*trade, the market of this town is much frequented by
the frrmers, for a considerable distance round, and consequently
mach business is done here in the malting line, in which there are
from fifteen to twenty houses.
A principal source of the prosperity of Stow-maiket, is the na-
vigable
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Tigable canal from this place to Ipswich^ opened in 1793. It ia
sixteen miles in length, and has fifteen locks, each sixty feel
long, and fourteen wide; three* built with timber, and twelye
with brick and stone. The total expence incurred in Ihis under-
lakng was 26,8801. The charges for the conveyance of goods
upon it are one penny per ton per mile, from Stow to Ipswich,
and half as much from the latter town to Stow-market. Som^
idea may be formed of the beneficial effects of thia navigalHNi^
firom th^ statement, that soon after its completion it had redaeed
the price of land-carriage more than one*half, and the carriage only
1^KMl ooals foiff shillings per chaldron, and consequently raised the
rest of land considerably. Independently of its utility, this
caaal 4b a great ornament to the town: from the bason thei^
is an agreeable wrik, about a mile in length, along the tow^
ing-path, winding chiefly through hop-plantations, of which
there are about 160 acres in this neighbourhood.
An old mansion-^use, called Abbot's Hall, together with the
manor of 6low-4narket> was given by King Henry II. to the dbbey
of St Osyth, in Essex; but was granted, 38 Henry VIII. as pari
of the possession of that monastery to Thomas Darcie.
The house 'of industry for the hundred of Stow, stands ^ir'aa
eminence, about a mile frt>m the town, it has rather the appear-
ance of a gentlemaif's seat, than of a receptltcle forpmipers. It
warerected at an expence of more than 12,0001. and opened in
1781. .
BuxHALL, near Stow-market, is remarkable as the bitth^placer'
of Sir William Coppinger, Lord Mayor of London, in 151^. At
his death be bequeathed half of his large property to charflable
uses^ and the other half to his relations, ^ho lougflotirished in this
place. This fiunily was so fiimous for hospitality, that ** to live
like the Copptngers*' became a proverbiid expression.
Close to the church stands the elegant house of th6 R^v. fienry
Hill, rector of the parish, and also lord of the manor of Buxhall,
whose singular and successful practice of diilling wheat in rows,
at
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SUFFOLK. 207
it the dlrtMiee •f «%hft«eii jnebis, seoaft to deMnre tlie attemti«ft
«l tbe agrkdlarut *.
• FM^nmgk Hall,, io the parish of Ghreat Fbboiimgh, was
boflt in ITdfit, by the present proprietor, and l<Nfd of the msnor^
Roger Peltiward^ Esq. under the direction of Mr. Franeis Ssadys.
Thie elegant mansion is constmotdd <tf Weolpit-brick. In the
centre of the front is a projecting bow, adorned with a pediment^
aapported by four eolnflgtns UkewisoLof brick, fonned in' moulds^
made expnnsly for .this pnrpoaek The jiodseetands in on& of the
mootdelightfttl ntaatiifns in the c^mtj* The perk; oenprebead-i
i|ig,aboat 2<M>acveSi. g^iitfy slopes from th0nianelon> into avaki
ley» whicb neerly forms a 'Cirele ftom west to aoath. Thronghr
ibfi greater pait rf this vaUey, a river rising in tiie pariah* of
BsttlepideD, winds its eonibe to ioin the Gripping, below Bfeew*
BiaAet Bey4i:id the river, the park jBgain rises to the norths
t»A is skirted by a wood. It is diveniied by clumps of very
fine timber. An enybeivered walk, winding behind the hall, on
t}ie sammit of the hill, leads to the cburoh, whioh emtaios se«
vsral handssme «i<vlumentB of the Wollastoiti femity, fomieKly tilw
proprietors of Finborongh, and pHrtieularly otie to the menory of
WUliun WoUaslon, the author of the Religion' of Nature De-'
Gneaied, who resided, and is interred here. He was bom in^
1656, at Coton Clanfond, in Stafi%>rdshiro, and died in 1724.
Gippm* is a hasdet iridch derives its name from ita ritoa^
tmi near the^ source of one of these flfiriags, that form the river
Giving. It is chiefly remarkable as the seat of the ancient
equestrian lamily of Tyrrel, whose lesidsBce, C&ppmjg Hall, ia
now held by Sir John Shelly, Bart as aifHurtiiig nnuiBtou.
Haughlet was in ancient times a maricet^town, out of the rmm
of which Stow seems to have risen. We find thatd Edward IV.
William Uo«on, of Stow, wisa finedibr lying in wait near the tawn*
sf Hanghley, sad buying cUdMiis, eggs, and the like; and in
31 Henry
• Sm Ymut^t Vim ^fihs AgtU.tf Sufclk^ p. 369.
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909 SOfFOUL
31 Henry VIII. tke botchen of the femer pitce were amereel-
3s. 4d. becaase they sold meat oat of the maiket on a markeW'
day, contrary to the custom of this manor. In the following
year the amercement was donhled, bat the market has long been
disused. The village has a &ir yearly, on Angnst 15, being the
Assumption of the Virgin Mary, to whom the ehorch is dedi-
cated.
Near the church are the remains of a Tery strong castle, which
is conjectured to have been a Saxon structure. Kirby takes it for
gnmted, that it was the same building which went by the name of
Hageneth Castle, which was in the custody of Ralf de Broc, and
was demolished in 1173, by the Flemings, under Robert, Earl of
Leicester;, who committed great derastations in this county. It
afterwards belonged to the de Uffimds, Earb of SdMk, the last of
whom died possessed of it, 43 Edward III. as did WUliam de
la PoK who enjoyed the same title, 28 Henry VI. The figure of
this castle approaches to a square, fortified with a deep dtteh,
or moal; and except on the north side, a proportiondlile nmparl^
still entire. Toward the north, upon a high artificial litll> of
steep ascent, and also surrounded with a deep moat, stood the
keep, or strong tower, the foundation of which now tvmailiing
is. very thick, and iqiparently circukr. On the west side is a
pretty large space, in form resembling an obloiig square^ thst-
seeoM to have been an out-work of the castle, the east side of
which abuts upon the moat before-mentioned, and is somewhat'
irregular. The north and west sides 4ue rectangular, and enoom*
passed with a smaller moat, as was perhaps the south side, though
there is now no appearance of it The ground occupied, or
inclosed, by all these works, exceeds seren acres.
The manor and park of Haughley were the estate of Charier
Brandon, Dukeof SnflUk, from whom they came by purchase, or
exchange to the crown, and were afterwards granted to Sir Johi^'
Sulyard, of Wetherden. The manor is very extensive, and the
lord formerly possessed a jurisdiction of Oyer and Terminer, try-
ing all causes in his own court;, of which instances may be found
9 so
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SUFFOLK. d09
go late as 11 ElizabeOi. Tkui at a court held, 15 Edward IV.
the lands, tenements, &c of John Bnxton, of Stow, were sdzed
becaose he had vexed one William Tomer, by the writ of our lord
the king, contrary to the ancient custom of the manor, that no
tenant should prosecute another tenant^ in any court except this*
At another court in the same year, it was ordered, that the ahhot
of Hales, in Gloucestershire, to whom the parishes of Haughley
and Shelland were impropriated, should erect a new pair of gal-
lows, in Lnberlow field, in Haughley, under a penalty of f<Nrty
shillings ; and in the 8th year of the same reign,William Baxteyn
held certain lands by the service of finding a ladder for the lord's
gallows *•
Haughley Park was lately the residence of G. W. Jemingham,
Esq, eldest son of Sir W. Jemingham, Bart who married Fran^e^
daughter and co-heiress of the late E. Sulyard, Esq. but the public
fvpen state, that in October 1811, this manor, ^tending over
2442 acres, d2 dwelling-houses, and 98 messuages, with the spa-
cious mansion-house and offices, and a park and land containing
about 396 acres, were sold for 27,8401. exclusive of timber.
Newton was one of the estates belonging to Margaret, Conn-
tess of Salisbury, at her death, 33 Henry VIII. This lady was
the daughter of George, Duke of Clarence, brother to Edwarf
IV. by Isabel, the daughter of Richard Neville, the celebrated^
Earl of Warwick and Salisbury. She married Richard Pole, Lord
Montague, whom she survived, and upon her petition to Henry
Vn. obtained the possessions of her grandfather, and the title
of Countess of Salisbury. It was probably her proximity in
blood to the royal house of York, that gave umbrage to the jea-
lous tyranny of Henry VIII. who caused her to be accused of a
traitorous correspondence with the Marquis of Exeter, her son
Cardinal Pole and others. She was accordingly attainted of high
treason ; and in the 70th year of her age, beheaded in the Tower
ff London, with circumstances of great cruelty.. She- had been
Vol. Xiy. P C04-
0 Kirby'i Soffolk Tnv. ad Edit p. 188— 190.
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410 . surroLK.
eoDdemned, as was not unusual in that reign^ Without trials and!
when she was brought to the scaffold^ refused to lay her hesid on
the blocks in obedience to a sentence^ the justice of which she
would never recognize. She told the executioner, therefore,
that, if he would have her head, he must win it the best way
he could, and ran abont the scaffold, while he pursued her, aiming
many fruitless blows at her neck before he was able to put an end
to her life. Newton Hall, with her other estates, passed however
to her son Henry Pole, Lord Montague.
Onehouse was in the time of Edward III. the estate of
Bartholomew Burghersh, who died seized of it in the 43d year
of that king. He was one of the twelve noblemen, to whose' care
the Prince of Wales was committed at the battle of Cressy. On
the site of the old hall, encompassed with a moat, in which he is
supposed to have resided, a form-house has been built. The
g^ndeur and solitary situation of the ancient fabric probably
gave name to the parish, the greater part of which, two centuries
ago, was a wood, except a narrow strip declining to the south-
east, near that distinguished mansion, seated on a rising ground,
that gently sloped into a valley, with a rivulet, winding through
it. About two hundred yards to the north of the moat, stands the
church, which is small, and has a font of unhewn stone. It ap-
pears to have been a Saxon building ; but a part of the north wall
only, extending about ten yards from the tower, which is circular,
is all that remains of the original structnre.
Not less than one-fiflh of the lands belonging to this parish at
present, consists of woods and groves, finely planted with timber ;
and even part of the rectorial glebe, adjoining to the parsonage*
house, is a wood of ten or twelve acres.
At Wetheeden was situated WetJierden Hall, the seat of the
ancient and respectable family of the Sulyards, which, to judge
from its ruins, must have been a large and noble building. It
remained their residence till the reign of Queen Mary, who, to
reward the £delity of Sir John Sulyard, the first that took up
arms and levied men for her service against the sapporters of Lady
Jane
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SUFFOLK. 211
Jane Orey^ made a grant to hint of the numor and paik of Hangh-
ley, on wkich he erected a mansion there« His son, Edward,
«dhering to the religion of bis ancestors, suffisred mnch dnring the
next reign for recuitoncy, notwithstanding the nnimpeached Ibyalty
of his sentiments and conduet The fidelity of Sir Edward, the
grandson of the latter, to the cause of Charles I. brought on him
the imprisonment of his person, and the sequestration of two-
thirds of his estate, daring Cromwell's usurpation: but when
Charles II. recovered his tlirone, he was restored to his posses-
sions and his liberty. His descendants continued at Wetherden
for several succeeding generations.
In this village is a very oeat church, the porch of which, and a
latge aisle continued from it to the chancel, were built by Sir John
Snlyard, who, in the pedigree of that dunily, is called a judge
only ; but in the Baronetage of England, is said to have lieen
lord chief jnstiee of England. A grant of free-warren here, was,
I Richard III. confirmed to him and to Ann his wife, who was the
daughter of John Andrews of Bailham in thi» county by Elizabeth
Seratton, and lineal descendant of Humphrey Bohun, Eari of He-
reford and Essex, and of his countess Elizabeth, daughter of King
Edward I. Round the porch of this church, and along the chan-
cel, are finely carved the arms and quarlerings of the fiunily of Sulf*
yardto the period when th^ aisle W9« builU -
HUNDRED OF COSFORD.
Cotferd is bounded on the west by the hundred of Babergb ;
on the south by the same and Samford; on the east by 9nmford,
and Bosmere and Claydon ; ai\d on the north by Stow and Thin-
goe. It contains seventeen parishes, and one market-town.
Hadlbigb, a considerable place, situated on the north-aide of
the river Breton, contains 467 houses, and 2486 inhabitants. It
formerly enjoy^ the privileges of a corporatioAj and was go?emed
• P2 by
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21S SUFFOLK.
by a mayor, aldennea^ and commoii council; bat a quo warratU^
being brought against them, they surrenderedi their chsrter daring
the reign of James IL and no other has since been gmntedi • Tba
town had also two weekly markets, bat now only one on Monday.
Its fairs are on the Tuesday in WJbitsun-week, and the lOth of
October. The woollen trade, which once flourished in this town,
is reduced to the spinning of ysm for the manu&ctores of Nor-
wich.
The principal ornament of Hadleigb is the chorcb, wluch stands
in the middle of the town, and is a handsome structure, with a
spire steeple, A very handsome altar-piece was erected in the
chancel by Dr. Wilkins, one of the late rectors; and both the
church and parsonage-house were greatly improYod and beautified
by his successor, the Rev. Dr. Tanner. But the church of Had-
leigh is principally noted as the burial place of Gntbram,. or Gdw
mo, the Danish chieftain, whe being defeated by king Alfred,
consented to embrace Christianity, and had the goyemment of the
country of the Easl^ Angles assigned to hinu Here he reigned
tweWe years, and dying in 889, waaintenred In this church; but
it may be remarked, that the tomb shewn for his does not bear the
appearance of such antiquity. Mr. Gough obserres that there is
only a long arch, with a bouquet on its point, in the south waU,
of much later date. Befote the rectory-house stands a yenerabts
brick gate, with two hexangular towers, built with the bouse by
William Pykcnham, dean of Stoke College, and rector of this
place about 1490.
Twelye alms-houses for decayed housekeepers, were also found-
ed here by him in 1497, and haye a small chapel for their use.
A Bunday school has been established in this town, and is sup-
ported by Yoluntfffy subscriptions.
Hidleigh is remarkable for the mart3rrdom of Dr. Rowland
Taylor, who was rector of this churdi, and suffered in the san-
guinary persecution mider Queen Mary, for his adherence to the
doctrines of the Reformatjum. He was burned February 9/ \S6i,
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SUFFOLK. 213
•«ii the comflion in tbis parish, uftaally, thougli improperly, called
Aldfaam Commoti. On the place of his execution was erected a
tflone, with this mis-speU inscription :
Anno 1555.
Br. Taylor for defendiDg what was god.
In this place shed his blod.
BiLDESTON, a small town, meanly built, coirtuns 115 houses,
and 741 inhabitants. It was once noted foi its manuiacture of blue
cloth and blankets, which are now dwindled a^ay to the spinning^
of yam. This place had formerly a market; and has now two
fairs, on Ash-Wednesday and Ascension-day^
The church, a good building, stands upon a hill on the west
side of the town ; and besides it, there was formerly a chapel
dedicated to St. Leonard, in which there was a chauutry called
Erdington's chauntry, where, long after the Reformation, divine
serrice used often to be performed, on account of the distance of
the church from the town.
At this place is a neat cottage^ the seat of Richard Wilson,
Brettenhah is supposed by some antiquaries, arguing both
from the sound and signification of the name, to be the Coiubre-
tonium of Antoninus ; and the vestiges of a camp a quarter of a
mile to the south-west of the place seem to confirm the conjecture.
Others, however, as we have seen, place this station at Ickling**
ham, near Mildenhall, in the hundred of Lackford. The fieunily
of the Wenyeves resided at this place almost two centuries; and a
gentleman of that name still inhabits a good house here, surrounded
with a park. -
At Chelsworth, on a rising ground near the church, are the
remains of the foundation of a stone buildings which appears to
have been very capadous, and surrounded by the river Bret
Near them is a field called the Park, and a small wood denominated
the Paik Wood; from wluch circumstances the edifice is supposed
to have been the residence jof Hsome persons of consequence. The
P5
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814 SUFFOLK.
manor formerly belonged to the family of Howard^ the ancetfton
of the Dukes of Norfolk, and afterwards to that of the Veres,
Earls of Oxfoid. In 1737, it became, by purdiase, the property
of Robert Pockltugton, Esq. who erected here a handsome man-
sion, now occupied by Sir Roger Pocklington, Bart.
Elm SETT. The church of this village, pleasantly situated on a
hill, is built of flints, and covered with slate. The interior is
particularly neat and clean. On a mural monument in the chancel
is a kneeling figure of a man with a book open before him, his
arms above, and underneath this inscription :
" Here lyeth the body of £dward Sherland, of Gray's Inn,
Esquire, descended from the ancient family of the Sho-lands^ in
the isle of Sheppy, in KjsnX, who lived hfs whole life a single
man^ and died in this p^ish the I3th of May, 16P9.
" Tombes have no ose aniess it be to showe
The due respect which friend to friend doth owe ;
TSs not a maosolean monument,
Or hireling epitaph, that can prevent
The flux of fame : a painted sepulclise
Is but a rotten trostleaae ti easurer,
And a fair gate built to Oblivion.
But he whose life, vliose ev'ry action,
Like well wtpoglit stones and p^raniidcs, erecte
A monument to honour and respecte,
As this man's did—he needs no odier herse.
Yet littth but dtte> having both tombe and verse."
Near the north side of the church stands the house, formeily the
parsonage, now much decayed, but once snnrounded by a moat^
On the descent of the opposite hill is a droppiug,weU> which
deserves the ini^pection of the curious.
Elffisett is remarkable as the native place of John Boyss, ap
eminent scholar and divine, who was bom here in 1560. His ^
ther, himself a great proficient in tiie Greek and Hebrew languages*
was first curate, and afterwards rector, of this pariah. The son»
who is said to have manifested such a precocity of talents, that by
the
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SVFFOUL 215
the time be had attamed his fifth year, he could read the Hebrew
Bible, was edacaled at St. John's College^ Cambridge. Here he
u^oired the reputation of being the first Greek scholar of his time,
and was chosen Greek lecturer. He used to deliver his lectares at
four o'clock in the moniiug in his own chamber ; and so numerous
was the attendance, that it ^as said, '* there used to be as manj^
candles lighted in St John's at that early hour, as the bell which
then rang, gave toils." He once designed to apply himself to the
study of physic, with a view of making it his profession ; but being
troubled with a weakness frequently incident to persons of a deli-
cate constitution, thdt of believing themselves to be afiiicted with
every disease of which they read, he turned his attention entirely
to divinity. On the death of his fether, he succeeded him in the
rectory. When King James I. ordered the new version of the
Bible to be made, Mr. Boyse was chosen one of the Cambridge
translators, and executed not only his own share, which was part
of the i\pocr}'pha, but likewise that of one of his colleagues. He
was also appointed one of the committee of six to revise the whole,
each member of which, wliile engaged in the task, was paid by the
Stationers' Company thirty shillings per week. After this he
assisted Sir Henry Savile in translating the works of Chrysostom,*
ibr which laborious task he received only a copy of the book. The
highest preferment which this indefatigable divine obtained, was
a prebend in the cathedral of Ely, given him by Bishop Andrews.
He died January 14, 1643.
Kerset is mem<H^le only for a Priory of Benedictine monks,
according to some writers, or as others say, of Augustine Canons,
dedicated to St. Mary and St. Anthony. It was granted by King
Henry VI. to King's College, Cambridge.
P 4 Kettip*
* Sir Henry expended two thoai&nd pounds in printing one thoiuand
copies of this publication ; and so entirely was bis attention engaged daring
the progress of the work, that his lad^, thinking herself neglected, one day
•aid to him : *< I wish 1 were a book too, and then you would respect me »
liule more."—" Madam," replied a person present, <* yon should than be an
almanack, that he might change yon every vear."
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216 BOFPOLt,
Kettil^arston. In 23 Henry VI. this manor was granted,
togethei* with that ofNedding, to William de la Pole, Marquis of
Suffolk, to hold by the service of carrying a golden sceptre with
a dove on the top, upon the coronation day of the king's heirs and
successors ]; and a sceptre of ivory with a gold dove on the head,
upon the day of tiie coronation of the then queen, and all suc-
cessive queens of England.
The Waldegraves are said to have had their seat at the Hall
here, which afterwards descended to the Lemans, and from them
to the Beaohcrofts, to which family it still belongs.
In the parish of Semer is situated the holhse of industry for the
hundred of Cosford, which was incorporated in 1779. This struc-
ture was erected 'the following year. The average number of
paupers is 180; and their principal employment spinning yam
for Norwich. The original debt contracted by this hundred was
8,0001. which has been paid off, and the poor's rates have been
reducfed to three-eighths.
Wattisham is worthy of notice for the singular tenure by
which the manor is held, that is, by the serjeantry of jumping,
belching, and f~t— -g before the king, as appears by the memo*
randum in the exchequer of the 21st Edward I.
Whatfield, or Wheatfield, *' is chiefly remarkable,*' says
the Suffi)lk Thtyeller, *' for growing the most excellent seed
wheat ;" from which circumstance its name may perhaps be de-
rived.
Here, in 1788, died the Rev. Thomas Harmer, minister of
a congregation of dissenters, a man distinguished for his attain-
ments in Oriental literature, his antiquarian knowledge, and his
unaffected piety. He was bpm at Norwich in 1715. The most
important and valuable of his publications was entitled : Ohserva'
tions an divers Passages m Scripture, in four fols, 8vo.
HUN^
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svfFtok. 317
HUNDRED OP BOSMERE AND GLAYDON.
The hundreds of Bosmere and Claydon, incorporated in 1765>
mte bounded by the liberty of Ipswich and the haudred of Sam^
ford on the south ; ^u the east by Thredling and Loes ; on the
north by Hartismere ; and on the west by Stow and Cosford.
The only market-town in this hundred is
N££DHAM Market, containing 247 houses, and 1348 inha-
bitants. It was formerly a place of considerable trade from its
woollen manuftictures, bat these are now dwindled to nothing.
The town, however, is tolerably well built^ it has a weekly
mariiLet on Wednesday; and a considerable fair yearly on th^
28th of October, and two following days. The church, a mean
building, with a wooden belfry, is a chapel of ease to Barking.
The authors of the Magna Britannia * assert, that Needham
became so much decayed, that its poverty grew proverbial. A%
present, however, it is not much behind any market-town in the
county for improvement. The Stowmarket canal passes by the
place, and has greatly augmented its com trade.
Near the town is a lake of thirty or forty acres, called Bosmere,
which ^ives name to the hundred. The Gipping passes through
it, and is said to be of great depth, and to abound in fish.
At BARN0AM is the house of industry for the incorporated hun-
dreds of Bosmere and Claydon, erected in 1766, at an expense of
10,OOOL The number of parishes incorporated is thirty-five, and
the yearly assessment 25611. The principal employment of the
^ ^lpoor in this house, whose average number amounts to about 200,
is spinning for the manufiicturers of Norwich,
In the chancel of the church, says the St^aik Traveller, there
is a noble monument for one of the Southwells. Here also is in«
tenred Helena, wife of Edward Bacon, Esq. of Shrubland Hall,
t&ird son of Sir Nicholas Bacon, lord keeper, with an inscription,
vhich records a remarkable instance of fecundity :
Helena
? Vol. V. p» too.
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Hdena FUia ufdca et Hmres Thome Litle de Bray m Com»*
taiu Berk. Armig. vixit aimoi 37 ea Vita kUegritaie^ Animique
immunitaie «/ Uxor, Maier et Arnica inter primat kabereiurm
Hac tamen post partum XIX. Ftliarwn et XIIL FUiarum,
amorum plus [minus 82 expiravit. Anno Redemptioms 1646»
Juffi 24. ^
At Battisford was formerly a hospita. of St John of Jem*
niem, of the yearly value of 531. lOs. which^ at the dissolution^
was granted, 35 Henry VIII, to Sir Richard Gresham. His son.
Sir Thomas, the celebrated founder of the Royal Exchange ia
London, had the frame of that edifice constructed here upon thtt
Tye, a common of about 200 acres ; and most of the timber em-
ployed in the vork was the growth of his estate at this place.*
Baylham became, about the year 1450^ the property of John
Andrews, whose daughter, Elizabeth, having married Thomaa
Windsor, Esq. it devolved to their son, Sir Andrews Windsor, of
Stanwell, afterwards elevated to the peerage by the title of Lord
Windsor.
Bramford is remarkable for an uncommon tenure attached to
its manor. The tenants hold of the lord by a lease of twenty-one
years, renewed from time to time upon a fine; and in case of
death or alienation, the new tenant is admitted to the remainder
of the term, so that the lord derives a greater profit from the lands
than the tenants. Bramford Hall, the seat of the late Nathaniel
Acton, Esq. commanding a delightful view, has lately been re-
duced to a farm-house.
At Bricet a priory was founded in the time of Herbert Lo*
singa, bi8h<^ of Norwich, by Radulfus Fitzbrian, and Emma^
his wife. It was dedicated to St Leonard, and endowed by them
with lands and tithes ; and, among the rest, the tithes of Smith*
ficrld, in London. AlmericPeche, a descendant of the founder, eon-
firmed all the gifts of his ancestor, and obtained permission 6[
Walter, then bishop of Norwich, to have a chantry in his chapel
at
• Co1e*s MSS. in the British MuBenm. The tawiog-pits renwin to thb
day, adds that writer.
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«jt Brieeft, upon o6iidiii<m that the chapkia ahoidd^ impm:iis mq'^
cftfjimcltff Etangekis, swear to pay all the oblations he receWed
IB the chapel to the iiother«4)harch> and not to admit any parish*,
iooer to either sacrament, unless in immediate danger of death ^
and that Almeric faimselC in token of his submission to the mothw*
ckrnh, should repair to it with his family on the five holidays of
ChnsUnas, Easter, Whitsunday, the Assumption of the Blessed
Virgin, and St Leonard's Day. This house hanug been made a
oeU to Nobiliac in Fhince, was suppressed 6 Henry VJ. as an .
afien priory ; on which its revenues were granted to the pi;oYost
aiMl fellows of King's College, Cambridge, who are lords of the
In the parish of Coddenbam stood Skruhiand Hall, where
Edward, third son of the lord keeper Bacon, became seated by
ids marriage with the heiress of Little. One of his descendants,
Nicholas Bacon, erected a new mansion in a Yery pleasant park,
which contains, the finest Spanish chesnut-trees in the county.
This edifice haring been pulled down, a new one was built in its
stead, and is now the residence of Sir William Middleton, who
was created a baronet in 1804, and is major-commandant of the
Bosmere and Claydon volunteers. It commands an extensive
prospect along the .Norwich road. Here is also a manor called the
Vicarage, becauae it is vested in the vicar for the time being.
The vicaiage-house, the residence o( the Rev. John Longe, the
present incnmbent, is embeBished with several admirable painU
ings by Gainsborough.
Cre£Tiv6 ia a name possesesd in common by three contiguous
parishes in this hundred, and a fourth in that of Stow, distin-i^
gushed by the additions of All Saints, St Olave's, St. Mary,
and St. Peter. The church of Creeting All Saints is a very an-
ient bmlding ; thai of St Olave was standing in 1532, when John
Pinkeney ord^ered his body to be interred in the chancel ; but it
has long been, deniplisbed, for which reason the two reetories were
eons<didated about the year 1711.
The QMiior of Gratinges in Creeting St Olave was given by
Robert
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920 SDffdLK.
Robert Earl of ttorton in Normandy, and of Cornwall, in Engw
land, in the time of William the Conqueror, to the abbey of
Grestein in Normandy, which afterwarda erected a priory here.
This the abbot and conrent sold in 1347, by the king's lioenoe, to
fiir Edmond de la Pole, by the name of the manors of Mikelfield
and Creeting. The nUmor and adrowson ai Creeting All Sainta
were vested for a considerable time in the respectable fiunily
of Bridgeman, by whose heirs they were sold, together with
•their otiier estates in these two parishes, to Philip Champiea
Crespig^, Esq.
The churches of Creeting St. Mary, and of Creeting All Saints,
stood yery near together upon an eminence, from which they
might be seen at a considerable distance, and were commonly
called Creeting Two Churches ; but one of them was not long
since pulled down, and was found to have no foundation, the
ground having merely been levelled, and then built npon. St
Mary was, in ancient times, generally styled the priory of CreeU
ing, and was a cell to the abbey of Bemay in Noitaandy ; but;
t>n the suppression of those foreign houses, was made part of the
endowment of Eton College, to the provost and fellows of which
it now belongs.
At Crowfibld, a hamlet of Coddenham, is Crawfieid Hmii
which formerly belonged to the family of Woodhouse, and de-
scended through several hands to the present proprietor. Sir
William Middleton, Bart who is also lord of the manor. The
Hall is at present occupied by B. Stead, Esq.
Helmingham, has been for many years the seal of the very an-
cient and noble family of Talmache, or Tollemache. In Domesday-
book, Toelmag, as the name was then written, is said to possess
lands, kc. Hugh Talmache subscribed the charter without date,
made about the reign of Stephen, to the abbess of Godstow in Ox-
fordshire. The fiimily was at first seated at Bentley, in the hondred
of Samford. In 35 Edward I. we find that the manor of Bently was
held of the orown by Hugh de Talmache> a chief baron, who four
years afterwards had a summons to attend the king in Us expiedi-
tion
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ffCTFFOLK. 921
littfitoS^otlaiidL Uonel TalmacheliaTiiig married the koress of the
HdminghuBB of Helminghum^ acquired that inheritancey and made
thia place hit rmdence. His grandson^ lionel^ was high-iheri^T
•f Norfolk and Saffolk 4 Henry VIII; and the grandson of the
latter, of the same name, was high-sheriff of Suffolk in the 34tii
Eliadbelh, who conferred on him the honor of knighthood. His
SOB, lionel, was created a baronet on the first inalitntion of that
dignity. May 32, 1611. Sir. Liond, great grandson of the fini
baronet, on the death of his mother^ the daughter and heiress of
the Earl of Dysart, succeeded by ihe law of Scotland to the
honoia of that house. He for many years represented the oountf
•f Snfiift IB parliament^ till the act of union in 1708 declared
ham n peer of Great Britain. He was abo lord-|if«len«nt^ can-
tos rotdenim, and Tice-admiraliof Snftlk. The fourth in su^ces^
aion fiN« him is WUbmham* the present Eaii of Pysart, high«^
steward of Ipswich. •
Hdatkmkam Hail is a quadrangular stmctore, with •
court yard in the centre, bail) ab(mt the time of Henry
VIII. of red brick, which a few years since wps coTered witt
a white composition. It contains a few fine paintings; a good
library, chieQy of early printed books, in excellent oonditism;
and a considerable collection of ancirat armour. The house,, com-
pletely surrounded by a moat filled with water, is approached by
two 4iMr4ffidges, which still continue to be drawn up every night
The meaty as well as the bason in the park, is finequented^by great
numbers of wild fowl of different q^ies, which are almost tame»
from the eneonragemeut given them by the express orders of the
noble proprietor. The. park, comprehending 400 acres, contains
aome of the finest oak-trees in this part of the kingdom,, many of
which are of great age. It is well atodbed with deer, the number
being seldom .less than 700 : among these are a few stags, or
ted deer, which are remaricably large.
The church, embosomed in wood, stands by the side of the
paik, and, with a cottage, kihabited by a person who takes care
af the vault and splendid monuments of the ToUemaehe fomily,
forma
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S29 SOFFOLK.
fbrms a beautiful and pictnresqae object Here^ among other
gaUant wanidrs, is interred the Beir of the family, who fell be*
fere Valenciennes in July, 1793. A monument by Ndldk^aui
has recently been erected to the memory of the lady of the present
earl.
Heminoston. This manor seems to have been held by the
same kind of tenure as that of Wattisbam, iu the hondred of Cos--
lord, already mentioned. Camden's account of this place is as
ibllows : — '' Here Baldwin le Petteur (observe the name) held
lands by serjeantry, for which he was obliged every Chrisfmas^
day^ to perform before our Lord the King of Englaud/one salius,
one suffiatus, and one bumbulns; or, as it Is read in another
flaee, he held by a takus, a suffiahu, and a pettus ; that is
^if I apfirdiend it right) he was to dance, make a noise with
his cheeks, and let af— t. Such was the pliain jolly mirth of those
days*."
Nettlested belonged to the Eark oif Richmond and Brittany,
firom the time of the Norman conquest to 17 Henry II. when that
family became extinct By a q>ecial charter, dated May 1,1241,
this, with other estates, was given by Henry III. to Peter deSa*
voy, the queen's uncle, who dying without heirs, left it to that
princess. It was soon afterwards granted to Robert de Tibetot^
in consideration of his adherence to the king against his re-,
> bellious barons, and was transmitted by him to his descendants,
on the fiulmre of whom, 46 Edwaid III, this estate belonged for
some time, to the family of Despenser. About 1450, it became
l^e property of Roger Wentworth, ancestor of Thomas Went-
worth, who, in the reign of Henry VIIl. was admilited to sit is
parliament, as a peer, by virtue of his writ of summons. His sos
Thomas was governor of Calais, when that place was surprised
and taken by the French, to the extreme mortification of Qnees
Mary, who caused htm to be solemnly condemned of high treason,
thongh linheard, and a prisoner in France. Though the repre-
• santatives of this fiunily lutd assumed the title of lords, it does not
apprar
* Gottgh'i CamdcB, 11. IfS.
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BtFPOLK. 223
appear that they were elevated to the dignity^ till James I. in the
eighth year of his reign^ created Thomas Wentworth^ Lord Went-
worthf of Nettlestead^ to which honour hia successor added the
earldom of Cleveland. By this nobleman, the estate of Nettlestead
was sold to William Lodge, citizen of London; and it has since
passed through yarions hands.
At Offton, upon a chalk hill, once stood an ancient castle,
which tradition ascribes to Offii, king of Mercia, after he had
slain Etheldred, King of the East Angles, and seized his domi^
liions. Firom the same monarch, the village also is said to have de*
rived its name. The castle is so completely demolished, that not
a vestige of it remains.
The advowson of the church of Ofiton, aad thirty acres of land
there, belonged to the prior and convent of Thetford, and were
granted, S2 Henry YIII. as part of their posacsmons to Thomas,
Duke of Norfolk.
The learned and pious Dr. Andrews, Bishop of Ely, left 400(H.
to purchase an estate ibr the benefit of poor men and boys, clergy-
men's widows and prisoners. The trustees in whom it was vested
for the purpose^ accordingly bought lands in this and the neighbour-
ing pariah of Elmsett, in the hundred of Coafoid.
. Stovbaii is a name belonging in common to three viUagea
in this, hundred, distinguished by the additions of Aspdy Earl,
aad Porta. Stonham Earl, is so called, because it was anciently
the lordship of Thomas Brotherton, Earl of Norfelk, and afterwards
of William Ufford, who married his grandnlaughter. In 1 Ed-
ward III. the Duke of Norfolk had a grant of a market and &ir
here; and all the three parishes still form part of what is called
that dslbe's liberty.
.la the parish of Stonham Aspal> thus called from the family
of Aspale, or Haqpde, is Bromghion Hail, the ancient seat of a
branch of the Wiogfields, to which a manor of the same name is
attached. The last possessor, the Rev. John Wingfield, died
withoBt issue in 1730^ as died his brother Thomas, in 1763, who
was the last heir male of the fiuaily. la the churoh-^^ard is a
beauti«
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824 niJTTouu
beantiffd monnment, to the memory pf Antbony WingfieM^ Esq.
His effigy in alabaster, much injured by time, is represented ina
recumbent posture, grasping a serpent.
At Earl Slonham is DeerbolU, the ancient seat of the Driver
family, Drhose only heir married the late Richard Moore, Esq. of
Kentwell Hall, near Long Melford, and enjoyed this property as
her dourer.
Stonham Parva is sometimes called Stonham Jemingham, from
the ancient family of Jemingham, who were lords here for many
years. In this parish is the old mansion of the family of Bloom-
field, now the property of Charles Bloomfield, Esq.
THE HUNDRED OF SAHFORD.
This hmdred Is sqparaled by the Stout from Essex on tii#
south; on the west it borders on the hundreds of Babezgh and Gos-
turd; on the east it is bounded bythe liberty of Ipswid^, and the
river Orwell, wUeh divides it from the hundred of Colneis ; and oft
the north by Bosmere and Claydon.
The prineipal villages in this hundred are :—
Arwerton, formerly the seat of the Bacons, a eelefarated fi^
mily, who, in 1345, proeored the grant of a market and fiur here.
About 1577, the estate was purchased of 8ir Drue Dmry, by Sir
Philip Parker, Knt whose descendant, of the same name, was in
1661, created a baronet It is now the property of Charles Ber-
ners, Esq. of Wolverston.
ArtDertcm Hall, is situated on a point of htnd at thte junction of
the Orwell and Stonr, commanding a fine view of those rtvers.
Neither the house nor offices are remarkable either for beauty or
antiquity; and Grose telb us, that when his drawing was made,
they were so thoroughly in ruins, as to be iir^arable. The gale
of this mansion has attracted considerable notice, not for the
beauty, but singularity of its form. From the whimsical taste
of its constmotion, it was probably erected about the time' of
Elizabeth, or James I. a period when architeetore seems to have
6 been
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BVWFOfUU
keen aft its loweit el^b ; the bmldingm 4>f Ihoie day* being neitber
Gieeiaii nor Ck>thic, bnt an nnnatond and diseordaat jnmble «f
both.
. At Bommn, in the farmh of Bentley^ mm a small priory of
Black Caaona, founded by one of the aoeeatiHrB of the Dukes of
Norfolk, and dedicated to the Viiig^ Mary. It was suppressed by
thafizat boll of Clement VII. and granted to CwdinalWolsey^ when
its r^tennes vera valued at 431. ISs. 8id.
East B^roholt, is a considerable Tillage^ the church of
which ia united with the rectory of the contiguous parish of
Bianthanu It is said to hare formerly been a flourishing place,
from the cloth manu&cturai carried on there, and a market-town.
The xhufch, towards die erection of which Turious legacies
were kit early in the sixteenth century, is a good structure; and
awny parts of it are of rery elegant workmanship ; but the build*
ittg of the steeple, towards which other legacies were given about
the same timei has not yet been undertaken. The bells, fiv^ iii
nnmber, are fixed in a died in the church*yard.
Southward of the church is a neat mansion, built by Thomas
Chaplin, Esq. which, together with the manor and advowson, de-
vslved» by amriage, to the family of Hankey. The residences of
the rector, tte Rev. Dr. Rhudde, Peter Godfrey, Esq. Mrs. Ro-
bots, and Golding Constable, Esq. give this place an appearance
fcr superior to that of most vUlages.
FansTON, was anciently vested in a fiuniiy who took their
name from it, and to whom the estate belonged, till about the
tisie of Henry VIIL when it devolved to the Latymers. The pre-
aeat proprietor is Charles Bemers, Esq. of Woolverston.
Not &r from the bank of the Orwell stands PresOm Tavper, a
strong quadrangular brick building, not more than about ten
ftet by twelve ; with a polygonal turret at each angle. It is six
stories high, and contains as many rooms one above another, com-
^amieatiiig. by a winding staircase, which, on the exterior, forms
the principal hce of the edifice, haTing three sides, and nume«
rovs windows. The best apartment appears to have been on the
Vol. XIV. Q -fifth
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M§ SUfFOUL
fifth Blory ; it is higber than an^ of the othen, and ms probaUy-
hwig ip^ith tapestry, aa the amall nails yet left in the .WDod aeena
to indicate. The top is formed by a number of open arches, and
each of the small turrets, at the angles, terminates in a pinnaide.
The windows are square ; and, except in the principal apartmenty
very smalL In this building there is but one fire-place, which is
on the gionnd-floor, and even that seems to be of recent con-
atmction, and to have no chimney; whence it is probable, that
this place was rather an occasional pleasure-retreat, or watch-
tower, than designed for the purpose of permanent habitatioB.
Excepting a farm-house^ at the distance of a few yards, no tiaee
of any building appears near the Tower. '' Aa there is among^
the records of the manor,'' says the Suffolk TraoeUer *, " a
▼ery exact and particular account of the manor-hooae, and aU
the ont-buildinga and offices to it, in Henry the Seventh's time^
an4 no mention is there made of the Tower, it is pretty oertam it-
was not then built; so that it is reasonable to sappose it to hare
been the work of the Latymers. From the smallneaa ot the win^
dows in all the other rooms, it looks as if they were built cUclly
for the support of the nppemost nnnn, which, having laige win*
dows on three sides of it, seems to have been eontrived by soma
whimsical man, for taking rather a better view of the river Orwell^
than can be had on the ndghbouriag hilL'*
HxNTXBSHAM was, for a great length of time, the deneaae
of the Timperleys. In the chai^cel <^the parish-dmrch are aeve*
ral monuments of this &mily, and ei^»ecially a tomb of blue mar*
hie, on which is the portraiture in brass, of a man in complete ar-
mour, and a woman with a hound at herfeet» and this inscription ia
Latin:
" Here lyeth the venerable man John Timpcrley, Esq. heir aad
Lord of Hystlesham, and Maigaret his wile, which John died
An- 1400."
HoLBROOX. This lordship was formerly the properly of tke
iamay
* Second Edition, page 64
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SITFFOUC. 22?
fciEHy of Clendie; and a jiidg« Monging to it is iotened^in th«
alNirdi^ ifUli tiiiB lAflcriptioii :
Id obitiim ColendisBiiBi Sviq. Teaiporit
MiBiSqumm Jndicb Joluniiis CleuclM
%udbiit XIX. Die Aogvati Aqdo Silvalu^i
1607.
Ecoe jacet lubter Teoerandos marmore jadex
Ternm terra petit^ palaere corpus inest .
Ast anima ad soperos sanctiq. palatia cieU
* Peitur et atemt riiiit in arce Dei.
In tlie same place is also interred Margery^ ink of Thomaa
Cleachoy Etk^ eldest son of the jndge^ and daughter of John Bar-
ker, Bsq. of Ipswicii^ irho died in 161917.
' SnATFOiiD^ near the sonthem limit of the county, on the road
ftMu Ooleheater to Ipswich, has a handsome chnrch, on whose
water-table is inlaid in capitals this inscription^ most of it overw
gfown with moss :—
'' Rraye for the mM» of Edward Mors, and Alys hys wyf.
altey towlys anno domini 1490/'
Afcont a quarter of a mile south-west of this place, on the hank
of the Stoor, is a camp, where some antiquarians fix the much
disputed Roman station Ad Antam. The opinions on this sub-
jeet are thus summed up by the late Mr. Gough, and his con-
dttsion seems to be perfectly satisfactory : — '* Ad Ansam seems
to be tiie most undetermined station of any in the county (Es*
•CK in which it was placed by yarious writers). Mr. Burton de*
elines fixing it, and only tells us that Mr. Talbot in some copies
set it at Catawade Bridge, where the Stour makes an island. One
would think he had read it ad Insulam ; snd thereabouts, or at
Stratford, Dr. Stukdey places it, as does Richard of Cirencester,
changing its name to Ad StuHum amnem. Mr. Horsley, by the
fifteen miles between Cambretonium and Ad Ansam, is induced to
carry the last to Mersey island, where are great remains of the
QS Romans.
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4MB •ufiOU«
Bfomns* Aft^nmrdi rappotiiKf the militiry. vay« tp h$,Y^ nil
•t Colchester, and ooincided lor four or five OMlei, he curieett
to Caelerford, called in Dr. Stakeley^s map, Chetterfurd and
Cammhm: bat nnfrrtnoa^ely the. Doctor nustook Eaaterted^or
KeWedon, for Caaterferd, elae we had had a Konaa station beyond
controTersy. Mr. Horsley, in his table,page44B» makes the road
take a course, perfectly answerable to his friend Ward's idea of a
An»a, a corve: carrying it by Witham,- Maldon, Famfaridg^
Chelmslli^, Leiton, to London, which is in the fonn of an in*
yerted z. If we allow Camalodunnm to be Colchester, A4 Am^^
smm is to be sooght for on the Suffi>lk edge of the county, and
then Richard of Cirencester's Ad Siurwm has the fairest daim^
^apposing Ampt to be another word fyt the flexnre of that
ntier.
» «
In the parish of Tattingstone is the house pf industry
for the hundred of Samford, incorporated in 1765. The nuinber
of parishes is twenty-five ; and the sun originally borrowed was
SSUHOa. This edifice was erected in 1766, and the average nuoAer
of poor annually admitted into it is 260. They ue principally
employed in spinning for Norwich. The rates were settled at
3s. 8d. in the pound annually, and remain the same*
At Wher8T£ad is Wherstead Lodge, the mansion of Sur
Robert Harland, whose father, a distinguishBd naval officer, was
.created a baronet in 1771, by the title of Sir Robert Harland of
jSproughton, where he had at that time a seat which has since
been pulled down. In the same year be saOed as commander in
jchief of his majesty's fleet to the East Indies; in 1778^ waa second
.in command to Admiral Keppel; in 1782, he was appointed one
of the Iwds of the admiralty ; and died in 1784.
WooLVBRSTON Hall, iu the parish ofWoolverston, the ele-
gant mansion of Charles Bemera, Esq. stands in 9^ most delight-
ful sittta,tion, on the west bank of the Orwell* The house is built
of Woolpit brick : the centre of the principal front adorned with
a pediment
•' '^ » Goagh'« Camden, 11. 136.
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92»
%fMmM, mtffmtbit by fcur ioye«din«iB, ii eMineeled witb
die wfng^ on «Mh M& by «l cokniuUte. The kow front next Ikd
titer eoBUtafeHdV tlieiiiest ^easing Yiews of the wster and the op-
poMte shore of Nietaii^ thiongh the Ireeo^ whieh embdliBh the
. The ittteiior oftbii edifice coiteepondfl ivith ite exterior. The
sperlaienle Me titled up with greet taete ; tiiey contain some good
]^e6ires, and the Ceilidge are beantifiiHy painted. The std^lea,
which are an ornamental bnilding^ stand detached from the house
on the spot eeenpied by the old mansion. The present Hall wai
erecM in 1776^- by tiie late William Bemers, Esq. proprietor of
tfie stately street in'tiondon^ cdled after his name.
At some distance froin^thd house, in the patk, an interesting
monnment of filial affection presents a pleasing object^ that is
seen to a considerable distance, in passing op and down the river.
This is a square obelisk of free-slone, ninety-six feet high, with
an saeent in the interior lo llie top, which is surmounted by a
gM^, encircled with raye. The base is encMnpassed with iron
WStiag. On one side of it is this inscription :
In
Memoiiam
GolieJmi Bemen, Armig :
Patris optimi
et
iMVie ntttoldt,
hiriie oMiricdiB ettmiH
41h»
CaioKas BfRSCTt
1793.
On t&e contrary side, next to the river, is the following :
. Qnlielnms Bemen
Jul. 10, A. P. 1709.
Denatns
Septemb.l8. 1783.
Q3 The
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m^ torrouk
Thepaik^t pmeni contains tbont 400 acrMtkiliriditlMal*
ditioos intended to be.made to it» will comprehend 900. It it
well stocked wi^ beantifiil spotted deer, and abounds with game
of every kind, which the proprietor is particulaily . ansioos to pto*
serre.
This estale, eariy in the last century, belbnged to a Mr. Tyion,
who became a bankrupt in 1780, when John Ward, Es^ of Haek»
ney claimed it in right of a mortgage, which he had npon it. The
matter was brought before the Court of Chancery, and for upwards
of half a century the cause remained undecided. At length, afconl
1773, the property was ordered to be sold, and was purdifsedhj
the ftther of tlio present proprietor |br U^OOM^
THE UBERTIES OF IPSWICH.
Tho liberties of Ipswich include not only that town and Ha
aubuiba, but also the hamleta of Stoke HaU, Broofc'a Hall»
Wikes Uflbrd, and Wikes Bbh >p« forming a district more t|HHl
four miles in extent from east to west, and about the same tnm
north to south. They are bounded on the north by the hundred
of Bosmere and Claydon; on the west by the same hundred and
Samford ; on the south by Samford and Colneis; and on the east
by Carlfori
Besides these precincts on l|md, the borough of Ipswich has alu
ways claimed as an appendage a jurisdiction over the whole eK«r
tent of the Orwell, from the town to a pfaice called the PoUahead,
upon the sand, known by the name of the Andrews, in the high
sea» beyond the diffii of Walton and Felixstow. The limits of
these liberties fmd jurisdiction, both by land a^d water, haTO
been mqre than once ascertained by cpmmiaaions mointed for tho
purpose.
. Ipswich, generally considered as the capital of the county, in
bappily situated on the side of a hill. With a southern aspec^
declining by imi ^asy descent to the Orwell^ %h^ aoil being
W*4
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siTFFau. 2S1
mai^ eng, or gmTd, it extreaely bcaUiy. Tbe hiUi, which
me »boTe the town, to the north jtnd eas^ not only shelter it
from bkak and indement winds, but eontain springs that fomiah
it with an inexhanstible supply of excellent water. To the
latter eiroamstance it is probaUy owing that Ipswidi hm sof*
fared much leaa from fire than nuist other towns. According to
the emnaeration of 1801, it comprehended 1934 houses, and
10,M3 inhalMtanta, whoae nnmb^ had increased in 1811, to
19,469, saMslasiTe of persons betonging to the amy and nayy^
This town has fire annnal fiors, on Hay 4, and 18, July ^
Angnal 9St, and- September 26, and gives the title of ¥isoo«nt te
the Dnke of Qiafton.
Ipswich derires its nam^ from ita sitaation at the place where
the river Gippen, or Gipping, discharges itsdf into the OrwelL
It is written in Domesday Gyppnmk, Gj^ppetwa, Oyppewi"
tut, and Gjfppewk, which mode of spelling was gradually
ehaoged into Yfpt^iwifcke and Iptwuk, The town strictly
ifeaking, that is, within the gales, was not at great extent It
was suironnded with a ditdi aad rampart, which was broken
dawn by the Danes, when they xpiilaged the town twice in the
ifaoe of ten years, in 901 and 1000. This fortification waaaf*
lurwards senewed and repaired, in the fifth year of King John.
Tb% town had formerly four gates, caUed frem thev situ»^
tion, after the four, principal pointa of the confess; and from
these gates were named the four leets or wards, into which
the plaee was divided. We likewise read of a fifth, caHed the
Lme^iate, which stood en the bank of the Orwell« at the spot
where enee was e ferd thsough that river. Though the rampart
has, in many placsa, been broken through, and in others en«
tirely leveiDed, oomideable remains of it still exist These
may easily he traced from the Bowling Green Garden, or Grey
Friar's Walk, to St Matthew's SU^et ; and from Bnll-gate to
Northgate Street, and thus to th^ end of Cross Keys Street, it is
abnatentire. * From these remains it is apparent, that the whole of
the |iarisbee of St Anatin, St Clement, and St Sitfeiij witii gr^
q4 part
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partof IhMeof St. Mvgtfeitoid SI. MitOmr, wen MliaeiiiM
within the gates, Aooordiiigl j» in oM writijigB, they were dewh
BsijBated the eahnrhe of Ipimch,
Before, and for many yeaia after, the Nonaan eeafneet^ Ipa*
wieh waaln the aane conditian ae aO other boioQgha that weia
in the danesoe of the crown. For aeme time anterior te the
Domeeday enrvey, it appeara to have been rapidly deciinM^. ''. la
the time of King Edward/' (the Coafeseor) aaya thai <
'' there were 538 bttrgeases who paid caslom to the/duag^.
they had Arty acrea of land. Bat now there are 110
who pay 4metom, and 100 poor burgeaiea, who oan pay na marp
than one penny a head to the king's geld, Thita upon the '^hirfa
they haTe forty acres of land, and 338 faoases noW etfqrty, and
which in the time of King Edwajpd, ao^tted tq the king'^ geW«
Soger, the Ties-earl, kt the whole lar 401. afterwarda he apoU
Hot haye that reat, and abated aaxl^f shillinga of it, a# that it
now pays 371. and the ead always hath the third paif W^ are
farther informed ty the aame aaeieat record, that darii^ th^
reign of Edward the Conlesser» his qaeen £dith, the daagbter
of Eaii Goodwia, had two thirds of this borongh, and Ead
Gnert, the sixtb aim of the same nobleman poeeeesed the ropai|i.
ingthird^ The foeen had a grange to which beloaged^fonr eai«»
cates of land, aad the earl another, valaed at one kandrel ihU^
lings, besides the third penny of the borongh.
The first charter obtained by this town, waagrantedby Kiag John
In the first year of his reign, and confiBredon the inhabilanta m^
|M>rtant privil^es, some of wW^di strikingly illustrate the eppreih
sions under which the mass of the people must in those eady i^;ea
have groanedt By this charter, the king granted to the bnrgesso^,
the borough of Ipswich with all ita f^pnrteaances, liberties kit.
to be held of him and his heirs, by the paynmnt of the usual annual
farm of 3dl. and one hundred shillingB-more at the excheqiien
He exempted them from the pay^ient of all taxea, vnder the d^«
pominations o^ tkoU, leitage, staUage, passage, paiUageg and
all other coKtbms throughout his land aad aeirpartSf — a pnTilnflpe
9 9m
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ii 4 *e |«}t «f tfaft kiBg4oa» Ot cftj of LeaiM «ii txMpML
ThmtAa friiilegw gmted to tlw j^ple «r Ipmrki hj Itt
iliiitiT iMfe«iMfew>-«ThKl liM7 whmSA hnt^ ftiTiimtf
gIM aad 1i»BM il l^bm 0Wft~TJM BO peiM Am^
iuMMNifcttMireoBMiil^ «rtolM«if ttdo^rfimtkniby
tlliefBigfci IwM Unir loiidi^ ttrf rmt«r liieif jwl
Moeror tWy ticM.owmg^TlM ««:r «InmU iwH
«lMirlndii»iiyAlte Wimgli, tMotding io the cwtom of tto
hra^ «f ipowicli~Tli«i none of tliem dioold Ibe tool or
■MNOi bH oeeoidtogto tiio low of liio Ave boroogb~TlHft
tte^Bi^ ok«M tM boaHi^ onifiMireoMMiiottt of thoBoio
kvM seif* OT tho lwwii«
Ebf Steaidl. kitfae IM year of bb feign, fer eortun ol^
§mm rtiwlttirf bjibe bnkgenM of Ipowich, fcvtof vhot n«.
IttO ^M m 0ot HBonneOf oeiwi Ike Doiuugli into oio own imdo
mJ kept U till fcio mneteotttlfyear; wlen betngpleoBediriditbo
flrriee petfcnMd by iono ebipo tnm Iitewkh in Inn oxpeMlon
•piitt Seottssd^ Iw m-graated tbe boMmgb and Ho libertieo to
tk Mngoveo, n»d confirmed the chnrteto of hfapredeeenmo John
■dHenry HI. by nwitiier doled «t Bonridt, Jone S3, ItMl, bnl
htfadAed^tke town onflMently by tnieing the omranl rent frott
M* 9t ooEty nmrbif^ to-OOL ns it hot orof stnee oontinood.
Akoot the IStb of Edwnrd III. the bnrgessee of Ipewich were
• second thuo depnoed of their ebarter on the filloiving occasion.
At tbe Mwi'Tini^ wknA were bdd by a jndge named Shaiferd, aomo
mflM, whooe sUondaiioe was neeearary, ^ovght that hia lord*
Mr
•tUi ttpitMioik is sBp^oMd t^ugniff Ibe priocipal awn of die towii# aii4
nab M fcdw the cofrmn^niieaieBt hy tfw cfaMlwwaramtlMeoDditMoiie«»-
catockai of a fi^ and Uwfol man proporlj to nUcd. It abooldbo obsecved
Aatpefsom in aMftt«il0!y or is d<»c«n«, had not tbe free benefit of tbe law ;
br thej leceiTed justice from their Icrdt, and were jadged bjr them in mott
cattti The cliildren of snob people could not be their hein -, for they held
their lands snd K*>ods st the will of their lord, and were not tore to eujojr
tikmlapgff tfaaa be pleased.
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9U
■hip staid too long at 4ti)iier« Ose of thinlii a fiolie, toA ki«
M^vpoQ the b«Mli^ aad euned anotlier to mako jproolamatioM^
jreqoiring WiUiam Shaifiurd to oomeiftto^wtaiidaaTehiaiaeh;
«iid aa he did not 'lypear diieetod bim.to be &a»iL The jadg^
who ]ma a moioae nan, ao highly leaentod the joke, thit becaM#
the magiatiafaardbaed to apptehend the mSkm, hepmvailedi^Mi
tim king to seize the Ittertiea of the bonmgh^ the govaimieKt of
which waa accoidiogly.ooimiiitted to iho aheriff of NocioyK: sail
Suffolk; hot before the espiration of a year ii«|yeai8 to hav#
been exercised by the baiUflk as usual.
Next to the chartor of Kiw John, that gaa^ted by Honry VL
in his 24th,year was nost benefidaL By thia inotnmeBl, he ia«
eorporated the town by the style ci the bnrgbsses of Ipswidu
He aothoiized them annnaliy to elect two burgesses as hailiAf^ at
the accostomed time and place, to hold that offee Ibr one ^ole
year. He giantedto the faailift, aiidlbnrsnehother bwgcsses««
the bailifis should appoint fiom among the twdve portmen^ th^
office of justice of the peace within the town, together with all
fines, forfeitiires, and amercemeoto arising from that office, and.
the assize of bread, wine, and al& He appointed anoh one of
the bailiffii, as should be chosen by the burgessea at the tiin«
of election, to be escheator, and exprsaaly graatod the adam^
ralty and cleriuhip of the market^ thou|^.the baiiiflb had alwayn
exerciaed theae last offices by the custom of the town.
Though no notice was taken of this chartaw of Henry VI. in
thatof Edward, his successor, yet the letter gsanted att the pfi-
vileges mentioned in it, with these alterations and additions :-«^
He incorporated the town by the name of the batlifi, burgesses,
and commonalty, of the town of Ipswich; he confined the elec-%
tion of bailiA expressly to the 8th of Septomber, in the Gnildi
hall, to senre for one year ; and he expressly exempted the hm^
gesses from serving on juries.
The most interesting charter granted by succeeding monavchs^
for the insurance of these priyileges, was that of Charles II. wbo
in his 17th year^ confirmed the high steward, the twelve perU
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wnouL 98ft
, «Bd die tfeenlHmfr •harf ettn8tfMi% the murdw, ni
iamtolstkix ibetme.hmif^hy ibm nimet, anddmctod^.tlMl
^OB tbedevth errelBoval of any of the povtMM, or tw«ity«iMir«
the vmcfney vh^d he filled up 1^ the rest of the^e retjpeelm
bodieg. Though the hurgenes, toward the ooneleaion of the .
MmeTagn/siufeiidered tiieir charter aMd.ieceiTed another^ by
-which the^ naaiber of chief coastaWei iraa. redvced to eighteei^
5et» aa neither the canreiider waa enielled^ aor any ja4sieeat ea*
teved opon vMoid, the eficera vho had aeted aiuler the Imier
duurter recomed their fonetieDa^ on the proclamation of Josmb ir.
in October 1688; and from them the present p«rtmen^ and twen-
tf4ow men are regolarly deriTed.
The principal officers ia the eoipomtion at present are, two bai-
lifi, » high Btewardj a recorder^ tirelre portmen, of whom fonr
aie jaatices of the peace, a town dark, twenty-lbar chief eonsta-
Ues, two of whom aie coroBara, and the twclte senior head-bo-
tovgha, a treasurer, and two dmmberlains to collect the revennes
of the town. The corporation haYO also fifteen liyery serranta,
cennsting of five musicians^ fonr seijeanta at mace, two beadles,
^ common crier, a water-bailift a gaoler, and a bridewell-keeper.
Fnm the preceding particalara it will appear, that the privi-
leges oi the eorpwralion of Ipswich are very extensive. The
bailifii paas fines and i^eoveries, hear and determine causes, both
criminal and civil, arising in the town, and even crown cases pre-
ferably to any of his mi^esty's courts at Westminster. They ap-
point the^usrize ol bread, beer, &c. No freeman can be obliged
to serve on janes oat of the town, or bear any officea fiir the
king, sherifi for the county excepted. Neither are they com-
pdlcd to pay any tolls or duties in any other ports of the king-
dom, having estaUished this point in a trial with the city of
liondon, respecting duties demanded for the vessek of freemen in
the river Thames. They are entitled to all waife, estrays, and
goods cast on shore Within their admiralty jurisdiction, which ex-
tends down the river, al<»g the coast ni Essex beyond Harwich
tfoew^jjr, and beyond Laoguard Fort 01^ theotber* Bythesolemn
decision
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^aiirioB iB their frvte, of an uiq«iHU«A Iribeft In 14 B*»
Mtd UL «t Ipmch, they hiii fsontaMd to tlim tke odntestaA
right ^f ttMag cQttMMatiM^r.goodbieiiteiiBgtbo port of Hw*
moh, wUdi ms 4o»eniiiiiod to bekmg solely to the lnHift tat
tegeooeo of tUo towi.
. tponMli hoioOBttiN^MfltUni to porikaoat oiaeo tlio MCb yeilr
of SoBry VI. The rfflit of olootioiiio-iii Iho Mlift, poHaea,
ooMMm oouaeUmeB, oad froomoii at lttrg«; not rOeoiTiiig otai*.
Tb^iramberof Totem U between MX Mriiefoabsiidreli, auitti*
ittomiag ofieen are the twolNdUft .•
^The torn books of this borough ptt9nr6 die fbtlowbg oorioiit i
4Qnu> tospediog the wnga paid at diiferent periodt to iti repieientalhrw ;
140& John Snitbi and WilUam WathereM, 5 aaffet each.
1060. William Wonop, and John JEUfer, l9d. par day aaeh.
146S. Wiliiatt Wonop, and John Lopbam; the formar ta have 90d. • d«j
at York ; at any nearer place lOd,, at London ltd. i and Xopbanv
18d. a day every where.
14d9. JohnTimperley, jiinr. and.John Alfray, of Hendley ; Timpailej, at
Od. a day. Alfrajr •erred in caoiideration of hi^ bong made a free
1472. William Wonop. and John WaUwotth ; Wonop at 5a. • «ecl^ oad
if pailiament be adjoiirBed» to have la. per day ; Wallwoi«h» 3a. Od*
per week.
1477. James Hobart« and John Timperley, at ids. Od* or two mares eack.
1485. Thomas Baldry^ and John Wallworth; Baldry at is. a day; Wall-
worth at Is.
1494. John Fastolf, and Ed. Booking at 11. 6s: 8d. each, if at Weabnintter;
if futher off, to be osdered by the OreatCoart
NB. The Great CoQit ordered to Fastolf, 41; toBoekiB^aL
1509. William Spencer, and Thomas HalL Spencer to have dOs,
N.B. He had 6s. 8d.more.
1 559. Thomas Seckford, jtfnr. £sq» and Robert Barker. Barker had 3lL 4s«
159S. Robert Barker, and Zach. Lock, Esq. Lock , 61.
16fO. Robert Snelling, jWilliam Cage, Gent SOl. each.
1040. John GvrdoD^ William Cage» Esq. N.B, 18 C«r« 1. (iML) Cage
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awtel tMm viudi bMr« aot raieveA 1»y iSre, artiiillmf M>
rowandimgiiar; and eonu^qmHj do sot «ftke MMk ttf flMkiig:
^^f^umoti M. if Ihqr nm in. lighl tineai Ilr^lltti mb^ tliftev jre-
Wtfked tini Ipiwich whoUy eMfad the calamitiair to ivUeh Mtoy
other phow lieif iri^jcset^dariof tkeomldiflseantMoiriiidioM-
viiJIied the kii^pdMi^fAoii.t Ae middle of the eefeateeMh oenluiy.
4itheeoniei«ef nanyof the itreetB oM yet to he eeen'ttte re-
Duaoeof eariov oarred inagee, i«d greet BOtehen of the faovee
eie adoraed^ aome ^ thea to pioteiiiMi, in a aiarilte maAaer.
The town contKaavany good b«l[fin|pi, and in advantage irinch
it poaaeaaes inahigh degree IB) that most of these, even.ittttte heart
efthephce^haTe conTenientgardens adjoining, which render them
not only nK«« agreeahle, bat the town itatf more airy and aaln*
In Domea&y Book the foOowing chnrchea are mentioned as
standing in Ipswich and its liberties, in the time of William the
Conqueror: — the Holy Trinity, St. Austin, St Michael, St.
Mary, St Botdph, (or Whitton church) St Lanience, St Pe-
ter, 8t Stephei|» aad.Tkirlweaton»: Of theaa th^ three fcmer
ar^dcoioUshed and not; reboilt They w«e probably deatitoyed
by the tempest recorded by Stowe, who informs ns in his Atmals,
that <» the night of New Year's Day 1287, as well through the
yehemenceof the wind an the noleneeof theaea, nmny chorches
were overthrown and destroyed, not only at Yarmontii, Dnnwich,
and Ipswich, hot also in divera other places in England.
At a later period this town is said to have contained twenty one
parish churches. At present there are but twelve : Sit. CUment^
St. Helen, St. Laurence Si. Margaret, St. Mary ai Eiw^,
St. Mwy ol £49, St. Mary at Stoke, ^t. Mary at Tower,
Sti Matthew,
bad loot snd Dec. 5. 1645, Ciirdon bad lOOl. and Cage 501. more,
bandes ibe lOOl. formerly granted.
1600. JohnWrigbt, Gilbert Linfield; 6OI. wu ordered for Tfrigbt, SO].
for Linfield,
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9W sWfotx.
St, MMhew, Si. NkMoi, St Peter, tud 8h Ikepkm; hek is
•MitiM to tbeie, the liberty of the borougph contains the chwdiep
•f ThwHretton, Wkitton, and Weaterfield.
St. C/bnort'telnirch, waaeariy and wMIy impropriated to tlie
priory of St Peler, vithoat any vicaragpe lieiiig created ; and ibr
tiu» reaooa, wben the laat eatimate iraa made, it waa not Talned
in the king's books. In 7 Edward VI. this hnpropriation waa
giasted to William Webb, and WiHiam Breton, bat this ohnreh is
now eonoolidated with St Helenas,
la St CleaMnf B ohnreh is interred Thomas BUrad • who a»»
eoDfonied CaTendish in his circamttangitioB of the globe^ wilk
tUsinsoiiption:
Ha tfaat twfdft ye world aboo^
Seetb God's woaderi^ and God's worki^
ThofflvEldred tnTolodye world aboat;
And went out of Plimooth je fd of July
1586. and arrived in Plimoutha^gain the
9th of September 1588.
In this pariah iathehaodet of Wyfcea, given by King Riek*
•rd to John Oxsoferd^ bishop of Norwich^f and ibr iriiieh. tiie
town
* Id April laOf. Craren Did, Eh|. eibibited to Ae Antiqauian Society, three
cuioos old paintings from OtiTers* the seat of the Eldred lisiaily« m Fsaei^
the first of which represented a terrestrial globCf marked with the eqoinoctialL
tropics of Capricorn and Cancer, America, Ace. with the following iMcriptioa:
*' Thomas Eldred went out of Plimmootbe 1586, Joly td and sailed abovt
the whole globe, and arrived againe In Plimmoatfae the 9 of September
1588. What can seeme great to him that hath seeoe the whole world, and
the wandMs works therein, save the BCaker of it, and the world abore V*
QnagBip ia his Biagrapkkal HiHory, (vol. I. p. 848.) speaking of CaveiH
dish the circnmnaTigator, obsenres in a note, " Dr. Dncarel has a coriooa
drawing, by Vertoe, from an original painting of Cap. Thomas £idred» who
Multd round the globe in thesiiteenthcentory.
t At an earlier period Dean of Sanim; author of an History of Xogland
down to hit own time, and one of the foonden of Itini^ Frioiy, Ipswi^
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SUFFOLK. 9a»
%>m W9M allmred fo ddaet torn dM lee-flottveMtlie twiof lOL
pcr-ionHDi, irluehithad beeo aieeiufcoiiied to pay to that jpreUle*
The htanlet and maiior^ trhidi from tlus oircanulaiiGe feodved the
l^pdhtion of W^fkes Biih^, belongvd to the biahopi of Nor*
meh» till in li^, it waa given by act of parliament to Henry
¥111. who granted it in 154d to Sir John Jermie, Knt. Whilst
in the pootoosion of the bishopB^ they HBedllreqnei^y to reside at
their hoose, sitoated on the sooth aide «f the road leading frmn
BiAofs* Hill towards Naeton, where is now a sqaare field with a
bfiekrkilo, whieh appears to have been lormerly sononnded with
a moat. The dinrch of Wykes is sometimes mentioned in old
wnXingB, bol it is not known where it stood^ and it might possi*
hly be no more than a chapel for the use of the bislu^ and his
fimiily. In this parish is also eomprehended part of the hamlet of
Wykes Ufford, so called from the Earls of Sttffi>lk of that name,
to whom it was anciently granted. The Willonghbys afterwards
possened it by descent from Charles Brandon, Dnke of Suffolk.
In the time of Qneen Elizabeth it was held by Sir John Brewes,
then by Sir Edmund Withipol, and has ever since gone with the
Christcharch estate, being now vested hi the Rev« Dr. Fonne-
fcaa.
Beyond St ClementVstreet, and between the two hamlets,
stood St. James's Chapel, now wholly demolished. It is probable
thU it belonged to St. James's hospital, between whieh and the
kpiotts house of St Mary Magdalen, some conneicion is conjec«
tared to have existed. The .latter is said to have stood somewhere
opposite to St Helen's chnrch, and when it was dissolved, its
revennes were annexed 9 Henry VIII. to the rectory of St He-
len's, and with them probably those of St James's hospital ; iar
the incnmhent of that parish was oititled to some portion of the
tithes arising from the hmds in the hamlet of Wykes Bishop ; and
for this portion a composition was constantly paid by the rector of
8t Clement before the consolidation of the two churches.
St, Helenas, although formerly impropriated to the hospital of
St James or St Mary Magdalen, has been instituted into a reo«
tory
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tity wm wiKe the ■efcnutiwi, i» a ieid
CMw€U UaU, BOW aJkd €M BM, on the mMi oftlM loii
hMiSmg to KwgfftTC, stiMd tke dnidi of St, JdMi fiiiplwti, ia
OoldwoU, of which llMte ara BO remaino. it waa inpropriated to
Trinity iwMNry, aad gnatod with that hoaoe to Sir Thoiaai Pope.
la this piriih alw^ at the ooath-weft ooner of Rooenaiy-laiM^
Biook-atnet» waa fonaeriy a chapel dedioated to St. Ednand a
FMmtney** aad inpropiiatod to St Peter's priory ; bat beiag^
like St. Helea'B, in tiie patroBnge of the Biihop of Norwieh^ they
were hoth giTon to the Mme iaoHBhoBt tiU they wwe aailid.
S^ Lamrmu ia nad in Ponoiday^ to hare poawied twelvo
•oeo of land. TUaehareh waa giToa to Trinity priory, to whiah
H waa iaqpropriated; bat aa there had fcr many yeare bem no
prndial tithea behmging to it, thefe waa no gruit of the impro-
priaiion at the diaeolation. The preient edifice was b^an by J^
Bottold» who died in 1431^ and was interred here, with thia in*
•criptioB, which, aa Weaver mferma as^f was discovered on re-
aMffiagapew in this ehnroh :
Subjacet hoc lapide Jahn BoltoU wit probos ipse,
Ittiu eodetm prtmoi inceptor Aiit ttte#
Cnjut animM, Donuiie, miierere tv bone Chriite.
OUit IfCCCCXXXL Litem Dominicalii 6.
The chaacel was bailt by John Baldwyn, diaper, who died in
1449, and iiia name is in the stone^work nnder the east window,
now plastered over. About that time several legacies were left
towards the erection of the steeple.
In ldl4» Edward Daandy, then one of the represoitatives of
this borongh in pariiament, feonded a chauntry in this churdi.
ibr asocahr priest to officiate at the altar of St. Thomaai, in behalf
of
* ThU Saint Edmond ivas Archbishop of Caaterbmyj aad being weary of
Ae pope's exactions in England, became a volunury exile, and died in
1140, with the repntation of & saint, at Fontiniac in France, from which
place tfie additioa t» his nanO was » compt deri?ation.
^f P.750.
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BvnovL Ml
«f Miwnlf oiA kte Mlatio«i» wMm; whom ke redcotted Thonis
WohHTf, Ami 1>6aiii oC Lbieolii, asd hk panttto, Robert m< Jtae
WolHTf , AeecMeiL To tiiio priait aad Lk ftoceenMNro lie gtve his
iMme in ^Iub fuiah for his residence ; and hie laiide in Sprongh-
ton^ Stake, «n& Abeobeme, for a mainteiuuiee. This Mr. Dsah-
dy vas ome oC the sMst respectable men of tiie town in his thne ;
ail liis daagbteis mamed gentlemen of good fortvne: and the
wife of lord-ieqier Baoon was the itsne of one of tiiem.
The jRer. Richard Canning, M • A. a gentleman of dbtingofshed
charaeter nod dbilities, editor of the second edition of Kirby's 8nf-
fcik Trardier, and compiler of the accomit of tiie Ipswich chsr
ritica, was forty years minister of the church of St Lavuice, and
diedJone9,1775.
St. Margmrefs was impropriate to the priory of tfie Holy
Trinity. IVinity church, after which this boose is supposed to
bsf e been luuned, stood near St. Margaret's chorch-yard, and is
SMBtioned is Domesday as being endowed with twenty-six acres
of bod in the time of the Conqueror. The priory was founded,
ssd cUeiiy endowed before the year 1177, by Norman Gastrode»
Ar Bkck Cuions of the order of St. Austin, and the founder be*
came one of Ha first inhabitanti. King Henry II. granted the
frior and eonrent a fair on Holyrood Day, September 14, to oon^
tiaae three days. Not long after the foundation of the monastery,
tte ^ureh and offices were consumed by fire ; but they were re*
bailt by John of Oxford, bishop of Norwich, on which Richard I.
gtTcthe patronage of the priory to him and his saocess^Ms. The
gnut of the fiur was afterwards confirmed by king John, who
m^eorer granted to the priory all the lands and rents " formerly be-
bnging'' to tiie churches of St Michael and Si Saviour in Ipswich.
hom this expression it may be inferred, that both these churches
tcre even then dils^idated : at present their site is unknown ;
bst a TSgne tradition reports that the latter stood behind St Mary
Ebas; and that the finmer, which is said in Domesday to have
possessed eight acres of hnd, was situated near the church of St
Niehoias. At the suppression 26 Henry VIII. the possessions of
Vol. XIV. R Trinity
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^42 SVFFOLK.
Trinity priory were Yalaed at 881. 6s. 9d. pet almite, and id tit»
36th year of the same reign were .granted to Sir Thomas Pope.
The strong foundation of the steeple of Trinity church ivas, about
fifty yean ago, undermined and blown up with gunpowder.
. St. Margaret's is not mentioned in Domesday, whence it is na-
tural to infer that it was not then in existence; but as the churdi
of the Holy Trinity was appropriated to the use of the prior and
convent, this edifice was most probably erected for the parisb-
loners. The principal porch has two handsome carved niches in
front. It is ornamented on the west side by the head of a moaic,
from whose mouth the water«spout descends ; and on the east sid^
that of a^ nun answers the same purpose. They are fiur superior in
execution to the carving generally seen in such situations.
From the journal of William Dowsing, the principal of the par-^
liamentary visitors appointed in 1643 to inspect and de&ce the
churches of this county, it Kgfeun that at St Margaret's they
took down the twelve apostles in stone, and ordered between
twenty and thirty pictures to be destroyed.
In this parish, on the site of Trinity priory, a spacious brick
mansion, called Christ Church, was erected, aitd surrounded with
a pale, by Sir Edmund Withipol, whose only child was married
to Leicester, Lord Viscount Hereford. His successor sold the
estate to Claude Fonnereau, Esq. in whose descendant, the Rev.
Dr. Fonnerean it, is at present vested. That gentleman, with a
liberality not very common, allows firee access to this park, which
is a most agreeable' promenade, to the inhabitants of the town«
Here is still to be seen a bowling-green, which was formerly a
necessary appendage to a gentleman's mansion. The sur&ce of
the park, though not of great extent^ is pleasingly diversified.
It is stocked with some of the most beautiful deer in the kingdom*
of a fine white colour, spotted with black, which still £uther con«
tribute to the variety of the scene.
St. Mary at Elms, is one of the four churches dedicated to
that saint now standing in Ipswich, though in Domesday book
oply onp is meutioned^ which is conjectured to be St Mary at
ToYcn
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flUTFOUL 5M3
To««. St Mary tX Elms proiiably socceeded the dilapidated
Aatfk ef Si. Sanonr, and is thought to have he^ huilt on the
aile eCthal edifice. It iras given to Trinity priory hy Alan, the
aoB of Edgar Akto, and his son, Richard ; but there aeeme to
kave been no gtant of the impropriation since the dissolution of
that monastery.
Opposile to t&e ehnreh of St. Mary at Ela» is an alms-house
§ur twdre poor women, ereeted about fifty years ago, in pnrsu-
aneeof the will of Bfrs. Ann Smyth, who left dOOOl. for this chap
fftaUe purpose.
Si, Mituy at Km^ was impropriated to the priory of St. Peter :
and all the tithes belonging to it were granted, 7 Edward VI. to
W^ and Breton. The church must have been baiit since 1448,
when Richard Gowty was a consid^able b^ie&ctor to it; for by
tis will made in that year, he ordered hts body to be interred in
the ehnrch-yardof St. Mary *at the Kay;. and gave Calyon stone
ibr the whole new churofa, which was to be erected in that church*
yaid.
In this parish, northward of the church, was a house of Black
fnxn, Dominicaas, commonly called Preachers, who settled here
in tiie latter end of the reign of Henry III. The extensive site
sC tilts convent was granted, 33 Henry VIII. to William Sabyn,
but afterwards pnrchased by the corporation, with the design of
limmding in it a hospital for the relief and maintenance of aged
perBons and children, for the curing of the sick poor, and for the
CBployment of the vicious and idle. It was confirmed to them
by charter in 1572, by the appeUatioo of Chrisfs Hospital, and
VIS at first s^ported by annual subBcriptiona ; but afterwards the
corpotation made an order, that every freeman, on being admitted
to his fieedom^ should pay a certain sum towards its support.
Pkrt of this edi6ce is now occupied as a hospital for poor boys,
JBWhidi thay are maintained, clothed, and educated. Their num-
ber in 1689, as Kirby informs us,* was only twelve ; but about
the middle of lastt century there were sometimes double that num-
R^ ber,
♦ Hilt Ace. of TwelrtPrintt, p. a.
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$44 1»CFF0U.
Ber, in consequenee of a donataon of MH. per Bimnm left Ky ike
will of Nicholas Philips, Esq. a portman of this towa, *' towards
the learning and teaching poor children, providing books^ ink,
paper, and oonvenient apparel, binding them out appreatioes^
and for the providing of flax, hemp, wool, or snch other need-
ful things, as well for the setting such poor chil^hvn to wwk as
Ibr the help of them ; and also for the providing beddfeg conve-
nient and necessary for such children, and also a convenient hooae
for snch children to be taught in.'' Before this gift there does
not appear to have been any regular school here, so that Mr.
Philips may be considered as ito founder. Several legacies have
been left to it since his donation, particularly oneof 34M. in 1T46,
by his daughter, the relict of Sir Robert Kenp, Bart The
number of boys now maintained here is not more than twelve, and
they are chiefly employed in spinning wool, till they are old enough
to be bound apprentices.
Another portion of the monastery was still within these few
years used as a Hall, in which the Quarter Sessions for the ^a-
wich division were held ; and a Bridetceii for offenders within tha
limits of the corporation. Here is also a spacioas room, now the
town library, the keys of which are k^t by the bailifi and the
master of the grammar-school, and oat of which every freeman
has a right to toke any of the books on giving a proper receipt.
The cloisters are still standing entire : and in the spacious refecs
tory oil the south side is now held the Free Grammar SckooL
It was not kept here till the time of James L though the town had
a grammar-school as early as 1477, when it was under the direc-
tion of the Bishop of Norwich. In 1482, Richafd Felai^, who
had been eight times bailiff, and twice member of parliament for
Ipswich, gave tlie produce of some lands and houses to this insti-
tution, and also a house for the master's residence; but these
possessions were alienated, 20 Henry VIII. at the request of
Cardinal Wolsey, and given to his new college in this town. His
short-lived institution was evidently the cause of the charter af-
terwards granted by King Henry for the present foundation. This
6 charter
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SVFFOLK. 945
ohfurter ms renewed imd confirmed by Queen ]^lizabeth, who au-
thorised the corporatioa to deduct anunally from the fee-farm
payable by this borough, the sum of 24L 68. 8d. for the master's
aalary, and 141. 6s. 8d. for that of the usher, to which some ad*
ditions have since been made. The nomination oi both is nested
in the corporation, which is empowered to make such rules as it
may think fit for the regulation and goTemmenl of the school.
In 1598, Mr. William Smart, one of the portmen of Ipswich,
conyeyed a farm at Wiyerstone, then of the clear yearly value of
19L to Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, for the maintenance of one
fellow and two scholars from this school, who are to be caUed
after his name. In 1601, Mr. Ralph Scrivener, who married Mr.
Smart's widow, at her request settled on the same college an
annuity of 211. for the erection of four new scholarships, to be
filled out of the free-grammar school at Ip^ich.
Another considerable part of the buildings once belonging to the
monastery of the Black Friars, is now occupied by the poor on
Tooley's foundation. This benevolent institution, established in
1551 by Mr, Henry Tooley, a portman of Ipswich, and confirmed
1^ a charter of Philip and Mary, was originally intended for the
relief of ten poor persons only, who were unfeignedly lame by
reason of the king's wars, or otherwise, or such as could not pro«
cure a subsistence. The donor directed, that in case the estate
should prove adequate to the maintenance of a greater number
of persons, the baili^Es or wardens should be authorised to procure
houses for the reception of more, in proportion to the yearly
income, but not exceeding fifty. This part of his will has nut
always been punctually observed^ near eighty persons having re-
ceived benefit from this charity at one time ; but the inconveni-
ence thence arising has since been redressed by the diminution of
the number permitted to partake of it. Shortly before Mr. Too-
ley's death, the annual income of the estate was no more than
one hundred marks : but Kirby informs us,* that it was between
three and four hundred pounds per annum in the middle of last
R 3 century,
* Hitt Ace. of Twelfe PrmU, p. 1 1.
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240 8UFFOUL
centmy, since which time its value iniitt have been matmally
angmented.
On the -qaay^ which boiden the Orwell, stands the CtM/OM*
House of this port, a commodioos brick bniMing, in an nnfire-
qaented apartment contiguous to which is still preserved th«
ducking-stool, a venerable relic of ancient customs. In the cbam*
berlain's book are various entries of money paid to porters lor
taking down the dookeing stole, and assisting in the operation
for cooling, by its means, the inflammable passions of some of
the female inhabitants of Ipswich.
A mali-kihi on the quay, formerly known by the name of the
•A^ngel,'[was, in ancient times, a house of Cistertian monks. From
^e remains it appears to have been about 81 feet by 21. '
St, Mary at Stoke was given, as we are informed in the
Domesday survey, by King Edgar to the prior and convent of
Ely. This grant, made about 970, was executed with great
A)lemnity, as appears from the words of the deed itself: Ego
, Eadgarus, &c. Basilevs — turn dam in angulo, sed palam, sub
dio subscripsi ; and it was attested by his queen, St Dunstan«
Archbishop of Canterbury, and many of the principal officers and
nobles. The gift included the hamlet, which takes in part of the
parish of Sproughton, together with the advowson of the rectory
and the manor of Stoke Hall, or, as it is at present called. Stoke
Park. . It is now vested in the dean and chapter of Ely.
In this parish is the manor of Godlesford, now denominated
Gusford Hall, which, with its appurtenances in Godlesford,
Belsted Parva and Wherstead, was granted, 32 Henry VIII. to
Sir John Ravensworth, as parcel of the possessions of tjie priory
of Canon's Leigh, Devonshire. In a perambulation in 26 Edward
III. this house is described as belonging to Robert Andrews,
whose fomily seems to have been long settled here ; for fn 13
Heury VIII. it is denominated " the gate some-time of old
Robert Andrews, now of Sir Andrews Windsor," who took his
Chrisriian name from that family, and was afterwards created Lord
Windsor.
9 Ih
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In Stoke parish was fermeriy a miracnlous rood near the plac^,
which from this circumstance received the name of Golden Rood
Idtne.
St Mary ai Tower was given by Norman, the son of Ead*
noth, to Trinity priory. The tower of this church was formerly
adorned with a handsome spire ; and Mr. William Edgar, of Ips-
widi, kft by willdOOl. towards erecting am^her ; but owing to
none misanderstanding among the persons entrusted with the
management of this business, the money was thrown into>chan<»
eery, and the object of the testator was never carried into exe-
entkm.
In this chnrch the confraternity of Corpus Christi Gild, insti-
tuted about 1325, used to deposit the tabernacle in which the
host was carried, and in which their money and other 'valuables
were kept. It has been suggested,* that a hollow place in the
north wall of the vestry, guarded by a door of extraordinary
strength, now removed, might have been made for the reception
of this tabernacle.
In Upper Brook-street in this parish, is the house of the Arch«
deacon of Suffolk, sometimes called the Archdeacon's Place; or
Palace, The original edifice, of which the outer wall and gates
seem to have formed a part, was erected in 1471] by William
Pykenham, Archdeacon of Snfiblk, and principal official, or
Chancellor of Norwich, the initials of whose name are still upon
the gate-way.
St. Matthev/s has always been termed a rectory, and the in*
cumbent is instituted into it as such; but the great tithes, for«
merly impropriated to St. Peter's priory, were granted, 7 Ed-
ward VI. to Webb and Breton, and now belong to the fiemiily of
Fonneieau. The crown did not obtain the advowson by the dissoi-
lutiott of the priory, having always presented anterior to that
event.
This parish once contained four churches or chapels, long- since
demolished or disused: these were. All Saints, St George's,
R4 St.
• SufoJk TravtXUr^ f d edit p. 49.
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1MB sofvauL
9t Mildred's, and St Mary's. Tlie site of All HaiitU cauMtflow
be asc^rtaiQed ; bat ao much is known, that it was ooaaolidated
with St Matthew's before 1383, when Thomas Moonie was ikiati*
tated into that chuidi with the chapel of All Saints annexed.
St George's Chapd was used for divine service so late as tkm
middle of the sixteenth century, when Mr, Bilneyi who softrod
«uu*tyrdom> was there apprehended ius he was preaching in favop
of the Reformation. Considerable remains of this edifiee are yet
left, but it is n#w oonverled into a bam. Northward of St
George's chapel stood Ipswioh castle, cm the hills which stiU re*>
tain the name of Custle Hills, though the fortress was entirely
demolished by Henry U. in 1176, after the defi^qn of Roger
Bigod, Earl of Norfolk.
St Mildred's church, once parochial and impropriated to St
Peter's priory, is one of the most ancient buildings in Ipswich*
Part of it has been converted into a Town-Hall, under which are
three rooms now used as warehouses. Contiguous to the hall is ^
spacious council-chamber, below which were the kitchens foimerlj
used at the feasts of the merchant's aud other guilds, now occupied
as workshops, and supposed to have been rebuilt, or thoroughly
repaired, on the restoratipn of Charles !!• We are informed by
Grose,* that some years ago a piece of the plastering in the mid-
dle of the front of this edifice near the top fell down, and discovered
a stone, on which were quartered the arms of England and FVaooe^
much defaced by time. A board of the same shape, with a paint*
lag pf the arriis, was put over it at the private expence of one of
the portmem The writer just quoted says, that the brick building
at the end of the hall, in the upper part of which the records, of
the coiporntion are kept, appears to have been erected about the
year 1448. The prior and ponvent of the Holy Trinity in 1398,
granted to the burgesses of Ipswich a piece of ground in the pa-
rish of 8t Mildred, 24 feet long, and )8 wide, the north end
abutting on the Combill. On this ground, aa we are told, the
present
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SVPFOIK. M9
yresenl edifice was erected ; and there us an order made at a great
court, 96 Henry VI. that all the profits of eaeheator and justice
of the peace should be applied towards the expense of the building
at the end of the hall of pleas. If this information be correct^ the
sirucliire in question must be one of the oldest brick hnildings in
the kingdom^ as the date assigned to its erection is^earlier by
wame years than the period usually considered asthe »ra of the
Sntroduction of that material,
St Mary's Chapel, commonly called our Lady of Grace, is said
to ha:¥e stood at the north-west comer of the kne without the
wesUgate, which to this xlay goes by the name of Lady^Lane,
opposite to the George Ian. This chapel was very famous for an
iou^e of the Blessed Virgin, which, in Catholic times, had nn*
meroos visitors, and to which, in old wills, many pilgrimages
were ordered to be made. In the third part of the homily against
peril of idolatry, this image is mentioned, together with our Lady
of Wabingham, and our Lady of Wibdon, by the style of Our
Lady of Ipswich. It was to this chapel that Cardinal Wolsey
ordered a yearly procession to be made by the dean of his college
on September the 8th, being the Catholic festival of the nativity
of the Virgin Mary, the titular saint of Ipswich. This venerated
image, however, shared the iate of other relics of superstition of
the same kind> being conveyed to London, and there publidiy
burned* The site of the chapel is now covered with buildings.
The alms-houses in Lsdy-lane were erected by Mr. Daundy,
who by his will, bearing date 1515, gave wood to each of his
^Ims-hoQses '' beside our lady of Grace.'' The lands assigned
by the founder for the support of these houses, were probably ap-
plied at the Reformation to other nses ; for, though the buildings
i^nnain, their income is lost
la St Matthew's church-yard, beneath an altar monument^ lie
the remains of the hte Lord Chedworth, with the following in-
teription :
THB
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S60 &uf roue,
TRC RIGHT HONOUIIABLE JOHN (HOWE) LORD CBXDWORTH,
BARON OF CHEDWORTH IN THE COUNTY OF GLOUCESTER,
WAS BORN AUGUST 22^ 1754— DIED OCTOBER 29, 1804.
HE SUCCEEDED HIS UNCLE FREDERIC-HENRT OCTOBER 6, 1781 J
AND DYING A BACHELOR, THE TITLE BECAME EXTINCT.
HE WAS A NOBLEMAN OF SUPERIOR ABILITIES,
WELL VERSED IN EVERY BRANCH OF ELEGANT AND POLITB
LITERATURE ;
AN ABLE, ACTIVE, AND UPRIGHT MAGISTRATE ;
INTIMATELY ACQUAINTED WITH THE LAWS AND CONSTITUTIOll
OF Hlff COUNTRY ;
A STRENUOUS SUPPORTER OF CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS LIBERTY;
FIRMLY ATTACHED TO THE PRINCIPLES ESTABLISHED AT THE
REVOLUTION ;
AND
A SINCERE BELIEVER IN THE TRUTHS OF CHRISTIANITY.
His lordship's grandfather, John Howe, Esq. was elevated to
the peerage in 1741. The eldest son of thn gentleman married
a Soffolk lady, the daughter of Sir P. P. Long, Bart, and dying,
as well as his next brother, idthont children, the title devolved
to the issne of the third son, the Rev. Mr. Howe, by the daughter
of Thomas White, Esq. of Tattingstone Place, near Ipswich. This
lady, after the death of her husband, fixed her residence at Ips-
wich, and thus laid the foundation of her son's partiality to this
town. He was designed for the profession of the law, which he
relinquished on his accession to the tiUe, by the decease of his
nnde in 1781. For many years he officiated as a magistrate,
and as chairman of the quarter-sessions held at Ipswich, in which
capacities he displayed great legal information and judgment.
His strong predilection for the drama led to that acquaintance
with the performers on the Ipsvich stage, from whioh many
of them derived by his will no inconsiderable advantage. His
lordship died unmarried^ and was boried, by his express desire;
in
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SUFFOLK, tftl
ift tke nne ▼wdt in wliieh his mother had been interred His
ht^ property lie beq^ientlied, with the eieeptien of • rery
to penoDB not at all related to him. The total
»imi of the legneies left by his will waa 183^0001. Thiatest».
^ispcmidkNLof his Ibrtnne^ thoogh opposed by bis rria-
tbes on the plea of insanity^ was afterwards established by the
legal tziboiial to which it was r^erred«*
The church of St. Nicki^a$ was impropriated to St Peter's
friory, on the disaolotioo of which the impropriation was granted
Id Webb and Breton. It is not mentioned in Domesday, and
■dg^ prebably have been erected to supply the place of the
dilapidated ehorch of St. Michael, which is said in that reeord to
bare bad eight acres of land, and is conjectured to have stood not
Iv from the spot oceopied by this edifice. It has even been sog-
gcsled thai, it was hnilt npon the same site, and with some of the
old materials ; a supposition that receives some oobmr of proba-
bifity fnm. a stone at the west end of the sooth aiale, on which is
a rade lepcesentation of St. Michael enconntering the dragon. Of
a acigbboring stone, exhibiting the figure of aboar, it woaid be
very difficahto give any saiis&ctory accoont; an inscription,
almost obliterated above the animal, is thought to have been-*-
is Deikaiume EecUtie Omnium Sanetarmm. Here the parlia-
Tisitofs in 1648 broke down silt pictures, and took up
iscriptiona.
In this parish, on the south nde of the passage leading from
fit Nidiola8*-street to the chinrch-yard, stands the bouse in which
tradition reports that Cardinal Wolsey was bom. The front bss
been n^aih, hot the hack and ont^houses, says Mr. Gongh, have
— iki!i of antiquity. The Cardinal's fiither, in his will, bequeathed
€a. 8d. to the high altar of St. Nichohs, and forty shillings to
the painting of the archangel there.
Westward of the church of St Nicholas, and on the bank of
fhe Gipping, stood a couTent of Franciscan Grey Friars Minors,
founded
* His estates in Gloocesteribire were bxougbt to the bamner in 1811^ and
disposed 0/ tor the soia of S68|635}.
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us BflffOtlL
fbtnded in the reiga of Edwavd L by Lord TibMIi, of N^tfe*
steady wbo, with maoy of hiit faiAily^ wm buried i& the chwdh
belongiBg to this home* A mall portion of this edifice, ooBtnia*
iog some of the lower range of windows, and part of the extenor
wall, are yet to be aeen in a gardener's ground which now ooe«?
pies ita site.
Another convent of White Friars Carmelitea stood partly itt
this parish, and partly in that of St Lawrence. It .was founded
liMut the year 1279, by Sir Thoaas LondhasK, and other bene*
fcetors ; and at the dissolution was granted to John Eger. It
was of considerable extent, reaching firosi St. Nicholss'-street to
St StephenVlaoe. Part of it was standing in the eariy part of
the laat century, and wneA as a gaol for the eonoty before the
latter agreed with the corporation fer the common use of thok
gaol by the west-gate**' Of this house, which pfoduood-uaBj
pavons eminent for their learning, no remains are now lelt
Sl Peier^s had, as appears from Domesday book, large poa*
sessions in the time of Edward the Confessor. It was afterwards
impropriated to the priory of St. Peter and St Pant, which stood
eontiguons to the church -yard, and was founded in the reign of
Henry II. by Thomas Lacy, and Alice^ his wife, far Black Ca-
nons of the order of St Augustine. This house was siqipressed ia
1527, by Cardinal Wolsey, who, wiUing to bestow some mariu
of regard on the place of his nativity, as weil as desirous of
erecting there a lasting monument of his greatness, resolved to
build and endow a college and grammar-school, to serve as a
nursery for his new coll^pe at Oxford. For this purpose, being
then in the meridian of his prosperity, he obtained bulk from the
Pope
* St. Matthew's, or the West-gate, of which Giose hat giren a view in his
Antiquities, (V. 7f ,} now demolished, served, while standingi for a gaol.
It was erected on the site of an older gate in the time of Henry VI. at the
volonurj expence of John de Caldwell, bailiff and portman. The lower
part, to the height of fifteen feet, is described as having been of stone, and
the apper of brick, lo tliat it wis one of the earliest bnildingi. erected wiMi
that material.
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MITOLX.
iV0lbrltoi^pM«ftiiiii^ udkttertpiiliBtfrMillMkiBgiNrtkt
stoandeBtaleolUieprMiytfSt Pei8raadSt.Fva, where, ia
Ike aOlkBcttryVIIL be foaoded^ college, dedioOed to the li».
Bor of tiie BlcMcd Virgin, coosistiiig of a dea&» twelve eecehr
eight docks, mad eight dorieter% together with agrem-
l: aad forite &ilher eiidownieiit he piecued pert of the
of the late noiiesteriee of ^Soape, Oodnaeh, Wike»
Hsihedejr, Tiptre^ RonftbonHigh, FeUxtow, BraoMhiD, BlyO-
biB^ aad Mosyoy. Thefirvtetone wee hid with greet wdev-"
■i^ kf the Bishop of lincola, oa whieh oecasiea a graad proeee-
eaaa wss naiie throagh the towa from ike eoUege to the ehordi el
Oar ladj. But this aoUe feaadation was scarcely completed
fcefaetbe disgiaee of the Caxdind, whea, in 23 Heary VIU. this
with its site, coataiaiag by estiamtioa six aeres» was
ta TTbwiw AlTorde; aad ia9 James L to Richaid Per-
civalmid Edaraad Dofidd.
No part of this college aow reamias except the gate, which
stttds djjoiaiBy to the eMt side of St Peter's chardnyaid, the
net hatiag beea lang deaiolished to the Tcry fimndatioos. In
the secead aditioa of Mirh^s Smfblk Trmeiier, pablished fai
1764^ we are iafinwied that the first stoae was act loag before
iNmd ia two piwcca, worthed np ia a oommoa wall ia Woalform's-
hm, with a I^ilia iaacription* to this afleet: '' la the year of
Christ
^ ItiM «vtd«nt tbaz this iotcnptioo, w gt^tn by Gongh, if incortectl^
pied.
.ct .• ti
DXXVOIet
regni Henrici,
Octavi regis
ABgli» XX menut
▼cro Junii XV,
positniB
p Jobnm epni Lioeni.
H« add*, tbsa ^^® '^^ coDtaioiBg it is now fi^td in a tnaft-bome, for*
neAj • room of the college.
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SM wrFouu
Cliriift l&id, and tbe SMi of Reorj VIII. king of Enghad, rt
the Idth of Jane^ kid by John bishop of lino^/' This wak
John Longland^ who likewise laid the first stone of Wobey's col<»
lege at Oxford.
This gate, with the exception of a square stone tablet, on whicfa
are carred the arms of King Henry YIII. is entirely of brick,
worked into niches, wreathed pinnacles and chimnies, flowers^
and other deeorations, according to the fashion of tfiat time. It
is supposed to have been the great or chief gate ; for as the Car-
dinal, by setting the king's arms over a coQege of his own foan-
dation, meant to flatter that monarch, it is not probable that he
•would put t(iem oyer any other than the principal entrance.* ff
this conjecture be correct, the specimen but ill agrees with the
character given of the college by the writer of Wolsey's seeiwt
history, who says^ that it was a snmptnous building : and indeed
the cardinal himself, in an exhortatory Latin preface to liUy'a
Grammar, then lately pnblishecl, styles it " no ways ineleganf
This is the more remarkable, as at that period architects were
extremely attentive to, and expended great sums in the consthic^
tlon of gate*houses, which they generally made superior in mag-^
niflcenoe to the other parts of the edifice; and this was partieu*
tarly observable in all the buildings erected by this ostentations
prelatcf This gate now leads to a private house, in the apari^
nents of which are some coats of arms,
• From wbat Fuller laji on tho subject, it is ovideot that Wolsey was
guilty of a great breach of deoorum in regard to the placing of these arma*
** King Henry/' says that writer, " took just offence, that the Cardinal set
his own arms above the King's on the gate-hoase at the entrance into the
College. This was no verbal, bat a real Ego et Rex maa, excosable by na
plea in manners or grammar, except only by that which is rather fault than
Sgore, a harsh downright hyUerMis ; but to humble the Cardinal's pride,
some one afterwards set up on a window a painted mastiff-dfig gnawing the
blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, to mind the Cardioal of his extrac-
tion, it being utterly improbable, as some have fimcied, that that picture was
placed there by the Cardinal's own appointment, to be to him a monitor of
httmility."— fai/er'j Ckwrck Histoiy,
t Or</9e*t Antiq. V. 79.
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SVPfOUL Mft
«< At Peter'%'' Mt*Afit JiNOMl <if Ikmi*;/ the partianen^
Tisitor '' was in the porch, the crown of thorns, the sponge and
nails, and the Trinity,, in stone,. and the rails were tiiere, all
which I ordered to break in pieces/' A curious font, however;
of great antiquity, stiU remains in this chnrch.
In St. Peter's parish stood the mansion granted in the reign of
Edward YI« to the Bishop of Norwich, by the appellation of Lord
Curson's House. It was afterwards called tiie King's Hospital,
haying been applied to that purpose for seamen during the Dutch
wan. The strong and stately brick porch belonging to this edi-
fice was demolished in 1760; it was subsequently known as the
El^hant and Castle, and is now a malt-kiln. By a statute enacted
26 Menry VIII. Ipswich was appointed for the seat of a snffiragan
bishop ; and the common notion is, that this house was intended
for his residence. .Thomas Manning, prior of Butley, conse-
crated by Archbishop Cranmer in 1525, was the first and last
suffragan bishop of Ipswich, after irhose decease, as it is sup-
posed, this mansion was granted to the Bishop of Norwich.
In the suburbs beyond the river stood the church of St» Austin^
near the green of the same name. It is often called a chapel ;
but in the time of the Conqueror it possessed eleven acres of land,
and procurations were paid for it by the prior of St. Peter's, so
that it was parochial, and probably impropriated to that priory.
It was. in use in 1482, All the houses and land on the south side
of the Orwell, at present forming part of St Peter's parish, are
supposed to have once belonged to that of SL Austin* Not fut
from this church, and probably opposite to it, stood St. Leonard's
Hospital, now a farm-house belonging to Christ's Hospital in
this town.
St, Stepken*s is a rectory, the presentation to which devolved,
with the ChrisUchurch estate, to the family of Fonnereau.
In Brook-street, in this parish, was a mansion belonging to
Charles Brandon, Duke of Snifolk, on the spot where now stands
the (iQach and Horses /mi. Some remains of an older building
maj
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986 SfTFFOLK.
may ttiU be traced on the walls Imuag tke back part of ike pre-
sent house.
The Tamkard pubUc'h(mte, next door to the Ck)ach and H<Nrse0^
formed part of the residence of Sir Anthony Wtngfield, knight of
the garter^ vice-chamberlain, privy-eoansellor, and one of the
execntors of Henry VIII. Some carious remains of the decoras-
tions of this ancient edifice still exist, particolarly in a room oa
the ground-floor, the oak wainscot of which, curiously canred ia
festoons of flowers formerly giH, is now painted blue and white.
Here the arms of Wingfield are yet to be seen; the ceiling is of
groined work ; and orer the &e-place is a basso-relievo in plas-
ter, colored, which uninterrupted ttiditioa referred till a few years
^ce to the battle of Boewm-th. This interpretation is adopted
by Mr. Gough, who describes it as exhibiting *' Leicester-town
in one comer; several warriom in the middle ; Sir Charles Wil*
Gam Brandon, who is supposed to have lived here, father to
Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk, and standard-hearer to th#
Earl of Richmond, lies dead by his horse, and on the other side
the standard: at a distance seems to be the earl, with the crowD
placed on his head by Sir William Stanley ; m another is Lei*
oester-abbey, the abbot coming out of the porch to compliment the
earl/'* A correspondent of the Gentleman's Magazine has, how-
ever, given a much more plausible construction, and asserted, that
this curious relic delineates the Judgment of Paris, and its coa-
sequences, in five compartment8.t In this explanation he seem&
to be borne out by an actual inspection of the piece.
Another
* G*mgK'$ Camden, XL 165* This writer seems to have heen led into tho
common notion, by the idea that the house in question was the residence of
Ihe Brandons. Under the same erroneous impression be adds, that Lady
Jane Grej (who was grand-daaghter to Charles Brandoa Duke of Suflblk,)
was bom here. Ipswich has no claim to the honor of being the birth-place
of that celebrated but unfortunate female, who came into the world at her
lather's seat at Bradgate, in Leicestershire. See Beuuties, IX. 396.
f ** In the first, says the writer, he appean seated, habited in bis Phrygian
tobe and bonnet, amusing himself with his lute, when ths three goddesses
present
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SUFFOLK^ 257
Anollier part of the mansion of the Wingfields haying sneces-
ttTely served as « popish ehi^pel for Judge Wilton^ in the reign of
James II. ; and a dancing-school has since been converted into a
J%eaire» Ipswich enjoys the honour of having first witnessed
and acknowledged the inimitable powers of David Garrick, who,
under the assumed name of Lyddal, is said to have made his first
dramatic essay on this stage about 1739, in Dunstal's company
ftom London, in the part of Dick, in the L^g Valet.
Besides the churches already mentioned, Ipswich had formerly
one dedicated to St. Gregory, and impropriated to Woodbridge
priory : but nothing fiurther is known concerning it. Mention is
also made of the church of Osterbolt, as being antiquated so early
as 21 Edward III. It is conjectured to have stood near the east-
gate, and to have derived its appellation firom that circumstance ;
and as St. Clement's is not named in Domesday, it might pro-
bably have been erected instead of this dilapidated church of
Osterbolt.
Ipswich has a spacious Market-place, in the centre of which
is a handsome cross, with commodious shambles, first built by
Mr. Edmund Danndy, though the vulgar notion ascribes their
erectiim to Cardinal Wolsey. They were rebuilt, or at least tbo-
VOL.XIV. S roughly
present themfslves. The aest toena ii his adjodgoieot of the priies, whea
Jaoo, ss qncen of Heavea, leads the way, followed hy Venas disclofiog all
her charms, and Pallas with the Gorgon's head and iEgis. Paris, won by the
attractions of the goddess of love» and her assistant son, who hovers above in
the air, decrees to her the prise which be hoidi in his hand. We next view
him armed cap-a>pi6, reclining perhaps at the foot of the statue of bis pa-
troMM^ meditating hk conqnest, his lance lying beside him, and his horse
standing saddled and bridled. The reclining warrior and the horse are the
only figures in the piece that could possibly suggest the idea of the battle of
Boaworth : twit the latter might with as much propHety have been taken foe
the Trojan horse, as for that of Richard III. or Paris for that king. Below,
in the left comer, we see Paris and one of his friends, with horses, preparing
to carry off Helen ; and ,in the distance they appear offering up their vows
in the temple of Venus, or perhaps solemnitin^ their nuptials while the horse
or hofsei are waiting without'^-^Oest. Hi^. 1796.
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on SVWYOUC
mvgUy repaired, about the year 1600, atace wUeii tine iu»tliing
of oonaeqaeace has been doae to tbem. On ike Coin-UU, in tlie
market-piace, abo stood a rotiinday origiiiaily intended for a aar-
ket-houae ; bnt bnviog long been a mere nuiaance, it waa taken
down in 1611, when a plan waa proposed lor ereetiag a handp
aome Com-Excfaange on ita site.
In 1810, five gentlemen of this town, with a pnfalic qpirit and
liberality which do them honour, at their joint expenoe nndertocA:
the erection of a New Market, which was completely finiahed in
Nb?eadber, 1811. It occupies nearly an acre of ground, and is
contiguous to the old Butter-market, an inooaunodiona and nar-
row street^ where the principal market had uaually been held.
It IB composed of an outer and inner quadrangle ; round each
runa a range of buildings, supported by i^ne columns, which
a£^rd shelter and accommodation to persons frequenting the mar^
ket» who pay a small annual or weekly rent In tiie centre of
the interior quadrangle is a fountain, the pedestal of which is
sunnounted with a pyramid of Portland stone, fomtng an obelisk
about twenty feet in height. On each side of the pftjfwtnl »
bason is cut in the solid stone, and snqpplied with water from a
lion's head above. By these means, the water which be£we ran
waste through the town, is now made to contribute to the conve-
nience and ornament of the market The whole undertaking has
cost the proprietors about 10,000L It waa executed from the
designs, and under the immediate direction of Mr. William Brown^
architect, of Ipswich, to whose professional talents it is highly
creditable. Adjoining is an enclosed cattle market, (an arrange-
ment truly desirable in every populous town,) likewise the work
of the same proprietors. The market-^ys are Tuesday and
Thunday for small meat ; Wednesday and Friday for fish ; and
Saturday far all kinds of provisions.
In the Comtif Gaol *' the gentlemen of SuflTolk,'' says Mr.
Nield, " have erected here, as well as at Bury, a striking monu-
ment of their humane attention to the health of the wretched, and
the morals of the prisoner. The boundary-wall of tbis edifice
0 indoBca
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svriouu 96d
iadaaai about an acre and a half of gromul, and in twenty feet
kigh. In front is the turnkey's lodge with a lead roo^ on which
^Kecntions take place. From the lodge an avenne ninety-eight
feet long leads to the keeper's-honae^ in the centre of th^
friaan, from which the aeveral court-yards are completely in-
apectod, Tlie prison consists of four wings, to which are attached
Hwaona airy courts about 75 feet by 45, and three smaller, about
4A feet aquare, in one of which is the engine»house, as a provi-
sion against fire. The chapel is up one pair of stairs in the
gaoler's house, and is surmounted -by a turret top with an alarum
bell; and here, as weU as in the prison, its inmates, both debtors
aad felons, are kept separate, according to their reactive classes
and aexea. The county has not hitherto provided employment ;
bnt sueh prisoners as can procure it from without, are allowed to
fooehre the whole of their earnings. The gaoler has a salary of
20H. per annum, with coak and candles for his own use ; there
is also a chaplain, who is paid 501. a year; and a surgeon is al-
lowed CM. for his attendance on this prison and the^ House of
Correction.
The House of Correction stands in an airy situation near the
Borongfa Gaol, and is surrounded by a boundary- wall seventeen
feet high. It contains three eonrt-yards, each 50 feet by 30, and
has a diapel in the keeper's house.
The Toum and Borough Gaol is situated in St. Matthew's-
atreet.. The keeper's house fronts the street ; and behind it is
the debtora' court-yard, 90 feet by 27, with^a gravel- walk. At
the west-/end of the building is a neat little chapel, which has a
r^;nlar chaplain, with a salary of 301. The prisoners here eroph>y
theoiselTes in spinning, making garters, cutting skewers, and
such like occupations, and receive the full amount of their earn-
ings. Debtors are confined here upon writs of capias issuing out
of the Court of Small Pleas, held for the town and borough every
fortnight on a Monday. No debtor in execution had ever reaped
any benefit torn the Lords' Act till December 30, 1805 when
S2 Ma
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360 StfFOLK.
Mr. Pulham, solicitor of Woodbridge, obtained the sixpenoeft far
them at bis own expence.
To the public buildings already enumerated^ must be added, a
chapel for the l/ntlanaiw in St. Nicholas-street, which is adorned
about the pulpit with some elegant carving; another for the Anc-
haptiits at Stoke ; an Assembfy^Room, in Tavem-streety of good
dimensions, but neither very elegant in its appearance, nor well
attended : and a handsome stone Bridge connecting the town
with its suhurb. Stoke Haodet
Among the benevolent institutions of thb town are Ihree cha-
rity schools, in two of which are seventy boys, and in the third,
forty girb. Besides these, it has a school on the plan of Mr. Lan*
caster, opened July 8, 181 1, with 200 boys.
An excellent charity for the relief and support of the widows
and orphans of poor clergymen in the county, was begun here in
1704, by the voluntary subscriptions of a few gentlemen of Ips-
wich and Woodbridge, and their vicinity ; an institution which
has since been eminently successful in effecting the laudable pur-
pose for which it was designed.
A small distance firom tbe town, on the Woodbridge road, ex-
tensive Barracks have been within these few years erected for
infontry and cavalry. They are citable of accommodating ten or
twelve thousand men ; and to the troops lying here, Ipswich owes
no small portion of its recent improvement and present flourish*
ing condition. A little beyond the barracks is the Race-course,
forming part of an extensive common, which, being the property
of the corporation, was sold in 1811 to several private indivi-
duals ; so that the sports of the turf will probably soon be sup-
^planted by more beneficial pursuits.
This town was formerly famous for its manufactures of broad
cloth, and the best canvas for sail-cloth, called Ipswich Dtmhle.
While those manufactures continued to flourish, it had several
companies of traders incorporated by charter, as clothiers, mer-
chant-taylors, merchant-adventurers, and others. About the midr
die of the seventeenth century the wpollen trade began to decline
here.
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BVWfOUu 961
kr^ tad gxitelly dwindled en«irdycway. Its Iom vu so w-
Tcrdy fdt tat a long tune, that Ipswich acquired the character of
letog " a %omu vMout people/' Favoviably seated for oommer*
dal gperolatkma, it has at leagth recoTered this shock, and is
DOW rapidly increasing in eonseifiieace and population. Its prin*
cipal traffic at present is in malting and com, the exportation of
which hy aeais fimlitated by the cstoary of the Orwell, naTigaUe
tut light Tessek iqp to the town itself* while those of greater
iNuden are oHiged to bring-to at Downham Beach, three or four
flsiles lover down. This port is almost dry a| ebb; bat the it^
taming tide, generally rising about twelve foet^ converts it into
a ■aynifeent sheet of water. Here are two yards employed in
sh^ailding ; and though the number of vessels belonging to
Ipswich is said to have declined from the decrease of the coal*
tode, yet mme than dO,000 chaldron are annually imported into
lUstown.
Vesseb fitted np for the accommodation of passengers, like the
Oavesend boats at London, sail every tide from Ipswich to Har*
wicb, and baek again ; an excursion that is rendered truly de*
l^hfinl, by the heaaty of the surrounding scenery. The OrweU^
wbicb, tor its extent^ may be pronounced one of the finest sali-
rireri in the kingdom, is bordered on either side almost the whole
W9y With gently rising hills, enriched with gentlemen's seats,
rillsges with their ehorches, woods, noble avenues, parks stodced
with deer, extending to the water's edge; and, in a word, almost
eroy object that can give variety to a landscape. In the passagf^
from Ipswich, the Tiew is terminated m front by the main ocean ;
on the right with a prospect of Harwich, and the high coast of
Essex; OQ the left with Languard Fort, and the high land of
Walton, and FeliiLtow cUfls behind it On the return to Ipswich,
the scene closes with a view of that town, which appears to great
aJTuihige, aec^^iyunodating itself in a sort of half*moon to the
mdingofthe river.
PariMig the reign of Queen Mary, Ipswich witnessed some o(f
lli0^ craelties wbicl> have attached indelible disgrace to Uie me-
S3 mory
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SftI mfwrouu
imyry of that priacett. On tke dirt of Angiurt 1M5, tUkmi
Samad^ minister of Barfold in this ooanty, and on tbe IMi o.
February following^ Anne Potien, a brewer*» irfile, and Joaa '
Tninchfield, a ahoe-amker's wife^ were bnnit in this town fiir ^
their adherence to the Protestant iaith« ^
Among the eminent persons to whom Ipswioh has given birth, ^
the first place indispntably belonga][to i
TR0M48 WoLSET, who, by means of distingQiBhed abilities^
and a fortunate concurrence of circnmatances, raised hims^frolii ^
BO obscure situation to the highest oJSkes in the church and sMe. ^
He was bom in 1471 ; but we meet with nothing to oountenanee
the common report that his fiither was a butcher. Firom tho par- «
ticuiars respecting Mr. Danndy, given in a preceding page, it i
even appears that Wolsey was wefl allied ; and it seems very pro- i
hMe that his parents were not in such mean circumstance as Ua j
enemies have taught the world to believe. Be this as it may, he .]
received his edncatton at H&e grammar-schod of his native town, t
and at Magdalen College, Oxford. Having embraced the ecole- j
Biastleal profession, he was presented in l^KN) to liie rectory of
Lymington, by Henry Grey, Marqfuis of Dorset, whose three
Botts were under his tuition. Probably through the recommends- ,
tion of this nobleman, he was sent by Henry VII. on a mission to
the Emperor Maximilian, and acquitted himself so much to the
Batisfaction of the king, that on his return he was rewarded with
tiie deanery of Lincoln, and a prebend in that cathedral. His
Introduction to the court of Henry YIII. he owed to Fox, bidiop
of Winchester, whom he soon supplanted in his master's fevonr,
by which he rapidly rose to the station of sole and absolute mini-
ster. He successively became bishop of Toumay in Flanders,
which city the king had just taken, a cardinal, bishop of Win*
Chester, archbishop of York, and lord high-chancellor of Eng-
land, The revenues derived from all his places is said to have
equalled those of the sovereign; and he expended them in a man*
ner not less magnificent. Among his retinue, composed of 800 {>er«
sons, were many gentlemen, knights, and even individiials of nobfe
birth.
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kMu He hiilttlw fdaee of HMqptim-CeQrt; wA Yofk-ptoee»
IB LDDdoQ, irkioh sAcnraMb rMeived the name of WbitehaU;
and tlie foimdatioii of Cbrkt Clmrdi College, Oxford, aod of hk
aeihge «t Ipsvich, attest his endeavM* for the pioviotioa of
leaning. Naturally aaibitiaua, Wolaey was not satisfied with the
lisiiBrH wUdi he had ohteined, bat aspired to the p^pal tiaia.
DisappeiDted. in his hopes by the emperer Charles V. who had
fraauaed to support him^ Wolsey rerenged himself by promoting
the divmne of his master from Catharine of Amgon, amit to his
imperial majesty. This afiair, however, proved the oceasion of
tte eaidiMd's downftL The obstacles to the aoeomplishment ot
^Henry^s wishes being too poweriiil for even Wolsey to remove so
speedily ss the king desbed, he inearred Henry's dispteasoro.
and being at the sasM time nndermined by his enemies, he was
anddealy stripped of all his employments, banished from the cwat,
and apprehended lor high treason. Having reached Leicester on
his way from York to London, death intei^sed on the SOth of
Movember 1580, and saved him fr«m fcrther hnmiliations*.
' Ralph Bbownmo, sen of a merchant of Ipswich, was bora
ttere in 1693, and edncafted at Pembroke Hall, Cambridge.
Mitt obtaining varioos preferments in the ehnrdi, he was, in
1641, nominated snecessor to Dr. HsU in the see of Eneter.
On the ceaunencesMnt of the civil war he was deprived of all bin
prefcrments, and led a retired iile, till, in 1657, he was chosen
preacher at the Temple, and died in 1659 in London. Notwith-
standing his immoveable principles of loyalty. Dr. Brownrig is
said to have been consnlted on a subject of considerable import*
anee by Cromwell, and to have returned, this answer : ** My lord,
the best advice I can give you, is. Render unto Caesar the things
that are Cesar's, and unto God the things that are God's."-*
His life was published in octavo, in 1660; and there are two
folio volumes of his Sermons, sixty-five in number, published in
1661 and 1664, with his p<Hrtrait pr^xed.
BwiAMUf Lany, youngest son of John Lany, Es^ of Crat-
field
* See Beauti€$, IX. 344.
84
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^64 tVFPOUL
^Id in this eoonty, irw born at Ipswieh towirds tilt ooodnaiaa
of the sixteenth century. He wai sneoemTdy bishop of PcAiihi
borough^ Lincoln, and Ely, and died in 1674.*
Clara Reeve, a lady who holds an honorable rank anong tha
female writers of the last oentary, was the eldest daughter of the
Rev. William Reeve, many years minisler of St Nichdas' ehnrdi
in thia town, and sister to the late vice-admiral Reeve. She
commenced her literary career in 1772, with a translation from
the Latin of that fine old romance Barclay^i Argems, Her
next publication, in 1777, was 7^ Oid BngHikBwrm, a story
which acquired considerable popularity. This was succeeded by
various other performance«, which, as it has justly been observed,
discover her to have cultivated nsefiil knowledge with consider*
aUe success ; and to have applied that knowledge less frivoloosly
than is iirequently the case with female authors. She died at
Ipswich December 3, 1807, in an advanced age.
Sarah Trimmer, whose numerous works for the religious
instruction and education of young people, and the poor, will be
a durable monument in honour of her memory, was also a native
of Ipswich. She was the only daughter of Joshua Kirby, Ebi|.
designer in perspective to their mljesties; married Mn Jamea
Trimmer, of Oid Brentford, whom she survived; and expired in
-her chair while perusing the letters of a deceased firiend, Decem*
her 15, 1810, in her 70th year.f
THE HUNDRED OF CARLFORD
is bounded on the east by the hundreds of Loes and Wilferd ;
on the south by Colneis ; on the west by Boemere and Claydon, and
the Liberty of Ipswich ; and on the north, where it terminates in
a very narrow point, it borders partly on Bosmere and Claydon,
and partly on Loes. This hundred contains no market town.
In
* See Beauties, Vol. XI. Northamptonshire, p. 15, and VoL IX. p. 6t5,
f Such readers as wish to see a complete list of her immerout Workf> «rf
reicrred to the G«nthium*9 Magasinef VoL LXXXI. p. 86*
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8VF90U. Mft
Alefa Jitenly of tlMt Bame ivIuckllonrMlMd U^
«f fidmcd Llo thrt of CiMurlM L aad to whidi beloiig«d Thmm
SecftJqidy Ea^ the gretft benefretor <tf the MeigbboriBg town of
WooArUge. Tlie last of tfais fiuuly nairied Ooiothy^ duigkte
of Sir HoDvy Vortk, and settled the estate apoo her. At her
dealh m 1673, ihe beqoeathed it to Seekferd Cage, the heir-
^eMrai ef the SeckfiMrd imily» by whom it was seU to the At-
JElBSOB^ib
BMiGorwEU. abdat the auddle ot the setoiteeDth eeatary be*
castt the ^opcrty of tlie fuaily of Baniardiston. la 1063 Sir
8mmd Baniardistoii, Kat. ef this place, was created a baronet
Be lebaih the HaU at a eoaaiderable expease, aad eatailed the
I his hein male; bat these fiuliog, it deyohred to the fe»
, and the title is extiaet
The Halt at GRDNDiOBvaoa, now the property of B. G. Dil»
Saghaai, Esq. was iMmerly the resideooe of the ftmily of Blois.
C3Hdes Bbis, Esq. of this place was created a baroael in 1668,
md raaored hence to Cockfield Hall, Yoxlbrd, where his sac*
cewMS have erer ainoe continued.
The 8tec|ile of the obarcfa of Groadisbargfa baring fidlen down
skat the time of die H^Mnation, it r^aained witiiont any till
aesr the suddle of last centory, when a rery handsome one was
meted by the cxecvtmrs of Mr. Bobert Thing, who left an estate
Id k soldier that purpose.
OmcT was fi>r a long series of years the demesne of the Lords
Akigayenn J. A sobstantial old mansion here was formerly the
aesl of the GoBMkcAd fiunily. In the church is a monoment for
iokfi Gonioldy who died in 1698, with an inscription, recording
tht lie was descended from the right ancient and worthy families
^ NiOBtoa and Wingfieid of Letheringhsm ; that he was gentle*
SBB-Bsker to Queen Elizabeth and King James, and afterwards
paOeaoiSk of the pciTy-cbsmber to King Charles I. ; and that
Winifred, his wrife, wara grand-danghter ei Sir Richard Poole,
Md the Lady Margaret^ CQuntess of Salisbury, dai^bter of
George
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tM iirrfotx.
George Duke ef Clareiiee, Kroiher of King Bdtraid IV. Tins
limily tuflered to aeTerely during the domeelic troubles in the
reign of Charlee L that Lionel, with whom it became extinct, and
who was rector of this pariah, was obliged to sell the eatale.
Platford was the seat of the ancient fcnily of Felton. Ed«
nrand FelloD, who married a daughter of Robert GlOTard of Cod-
denham in this county, was the 4ther of Sir Thoums PeHon,
chief justice of Chester under Edward III. and Richard II. His
younger son, John, applied r himself to commerce with such sue*
oess, that he was styled, by way of eminence, lA« Ckapman.
lohn, grandson of the latter, acquired the lordship and estate of
Shotley, by his union with Joan, daughter and heiress of Sir
Thomas M osel, Knt of that place, and was succeeded by his
grandson Robiert, who marrying the heiress of Sir Thomas Samp-
son of Playford, added this lordship, with other manors and estates
in the neighborhood, to his former possessions. His descendant,
Robert, was invested with the order of the Bath at the corsnatien
cf King James I. ; and Henry, his successor, was created a ba-
ronet in 1621. On the death of the two grandsons of the first
baronet without mal^ issue, the title became extinct, and the
estate devolved to the first Eari of Bristol of the Hervey fhraily,
in right of his countess, the daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas,
the elder of the brothers.
Playfbrd church is said to have been built by one of the Fel-
tons, who is interred in it.
RusHMERE is conjectured by some to have been the place
where Ulfketd, eari of the East- Angles, -^gaged the Danes, who
had invaded this country in 1010; though others, with a greater
appearance of probability, are inclined to consider Nacton in Col-
neis, as the scene of that conflict, for reasons which wiU be men*
tioned in treating of that place.
At WiTNESHAM was the ancient mansion of Bartholomew
Burghersh, one of the first knights of the garter, or, as they are
styled. Founders of that order. The site of this house may still
be traced by the moat which surrounded it ; and a roa4> oomiptl j
caUed
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ttiwJf liin^im.
Here — ■ faiidj mfcMi ciapti dteJkateJI t» St Thwutt, ^ tfct
ms Ikt imlel Vfm, whick «MhHK«i iladf uHo tiit
L«l]
HUNDRED OF COLNEI&
CofaiOB is lonaded on tlie enst by tbe river Deben, which 8«^«
ntos it firom the himdred of Wilford ; on th« south by the Gennnn
Ocean ; on.the west by the Orwell nnd the Liberty of Ipswich ;
nnd on the north by CarHbrd.
The most remftrknUe places in this hundred are :
Feuxtow, a small village, agreeably situated at the mouth
of Ihe Deben. It is conjectured to have derived its name from
Felix, the Borgundian, the first bishop of Ounwich, who might
probably have landed here on liis first arrival in this country,
FVom the many little mitred images that have been discovered at
Pelixtow, and are supposed to have been made in honor of him,
he is thought to have resided for some time at this place, previ-
4>usly to his removal to Dunwich.
At Levinoton is an alms-house for six poor persons of that
parish and of Nacton, founded and endowed pursuant to the will
of Sir Robert Hitchan^ who was a native of this place« The
steeple of the church, now consolidated with Nacton, was also
built by him, as appears from his arms, and ihe date upon it
Close to Levin gton stood Stratton church or chisel, the ruins
of which, overgrown with trees and bushes, were to be seen some
years since, in the middle of a field, thence denominated Chapel-
field. Here was formerly a lazar-house also, endowed with a
laoiety of the tithes of Stratton.
In
• Suffolk TraveHer, wcond edit. p. 94b
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268 SUFFOLK.
In a iarmer'B yard at Levington was dogthe first crag 0t aliA
tliat has been found so uaefiil for the improvement of land* This
kind of manure^ thoogh long employed in the west of England,
was not used in Suffolk till the discoTery of its eficacy was aoci*
dentally made by one Edwards, about the year 1718. This man
covering a field with dung from his yard, and wanting a load or two
to complete his wcA, took some of the soil that had lun near the
dung, though it appeared to him to be no better than sand* To
his surprize he observed, that the land on which it was spread
proved more productive than the rest; on which he was enooa«
raged to apply more of this crag the next year, and with such sue*
cess, that others were induced to follow his example.
Nacton was the manor and estate of the Fastolb frota 1380,
till it devolved by marriage to the Brokes. This fiunily is de*
scended from Sir Richard Broke, lord chief baron in the reign of
Henry VIIL Robert Broke, of Nacton, was created a baronet
in 1661 ; but the patent was made out in such a way, that on
his death, without male iteue, his nephew, who had married his
daughter and heiress, could not succeed to the title. The pre-
sent possessor of the estate is P. V. Broke, Esq. a captain in the
royal navy, who has a handsome mansion here.
The celebrated Admiral Vernon; the captor of Porto Beflo, fixed
his residence in this parish. His nephew, to whom he left the
mass of his fortune after his death, rebuilt the house, and sur-
rounded it with a park, to which, from the beautiful river that it
borders upon, he gave the name of Orwell Park, This gentleman
did still fiirther honw to the river, for on his being created a peer of
Ireland in 1762, he took his title bom it as Baron Orwell. In
1776 he was created Viscount Orwell ; and Earl of Sliipbrooke in
the following year : but on his death in 1783 the title became
extinct The estate is now the property of his nephew, John
Vernon, Esq.
At Nacton is the house of industry for the incorporated hun-
dreds of Carlferd and Colneis, erected in 1767, at an expence of
4,8001
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4flOtiL and first iahalHtdl in tbe IbUowing year. The poor aw
cwployrA in apinniiig wool and making sacks.
4n Ibis parish^ near the road from Ipawioh to Trinley^ is a
flaoe esHcd the Seven Hiils, firon a nomber of elentions, which
hnie all the appearance of barrows, thengh there fure more than
^e naaie kaptin. Hence it has been plansibly conjectured that
H wan near this spot, and not at Riishnere, that Eari UUketd
tsgaged the Bsnea in 1010.
North of the boonds of Naeton, and between theai and tiie
liberty of Ipewich, is attract of land now become extra-parochiaL
Part of this, cotttignoos to the Orwell, belonged to a little priory
of Aqgostine Friars called Alnesbome pri<»y, on the site of which
a €ttm-hovae has been erected, while a bam occnpies that of its .
chmdi or ehapeL In 1452 it was united to Woodbridge priory.
In a deed among the writings of the latter, it is termed a manor,
wan let, 32 Henry VIII. by the prior to a citizen of Ipswich, by
the style of Mmerihm de Ahieiborm H Purnds: and in the de-
•cription of a few fields held of this manor, they are said to lie in
the hamlet of Alnesbome, in the parish of HaDowtree. This
district appears, fimn ancient records, to hsTo contained three
darches, besides the chapel of Alnesbome priory; Hallowtree,
or, as it is sometimes written, Halgehetiv, St PetronOle, and
Bixley: hot there in no certain acconnt where any of them stood.
At TuntLEY St. Mastin is Grtmrfone Hali, formerly the
sesl of Thoman Calrendish, the second Englishman that dream*
Btrigated the globe. This gentleman, at his own expence, fitted
est thtee small vesaela of 120, 60, and 40 tons, manned by 123
SMO and boys, fiur the pnrpose of annoying the Spaniards in
fteir American posseasions. Sailing from Plymouth in July
IS86, he panaed ^tluroagh the Straits of Magdlan, and entered
tte South Seaa^ where he plundered several towns on the coasts
«f Cb'Ii and Pera« and took many valuable prizes, especially
tb Santa AnnJB^ a large Acapolco ship, richly laden with specie
tt/^^chandize. He then returned home by way of the Cape
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Mf SOFFOLX.
of Ck>od Hope, and iwched Ptymath SifteBbcr 19, 1586, im
years aad fifty days after his d^artaie.*
The success of this voyage encouraged CaTendish to make a
second aUempt with a stronger force ; and in Augvsty 1591, ho
sailed from Plymoatfa with five ships on a similar expediiioB:
but having passed the Struts of Magellan in May 1592, he was
parted from his fleet in the 9ight, and never heard of after*
wards.t
Two ilexes, said to have been planted by this navigator, are
still standing at Grimstone Hall. This mansion became by pur-
chase the property of John Barker, Esq. who was created a ba-
ronet in 1621 ; but the fajaily is now extinct.
Of AUiston church, consolidated with Trimley, no remains ate
BOW to be seen ; bat from the great number ei human bones and
sknik
* Ia H§dfhiif^9 CoUuiim 'v an aocoant of thii ezpsditipn, cndtlecl,
^ The Admirable and Profpexoai Voyage of the WortbipfiU Matter Themta
Candisb, of Trimley, io the County of Suliblk; Esquire, Written by Master
Francis Pretty, lately of Ey in Suffolk, a gentleman employed in the same
action. To which is there added certain rare and special Notes relating to
this Voyage, written by Master Thomas Fuller, of fpswich, who was master
of the Desire." The Desire was the lai;geit of the three vasseb, comsnndeii
by Cavendish hivselt
t Lambard, (Diet, p, 124) arguing in (avor of Ihe opinioa that there were
formerly men of most extraordinary stature, relates tbe follewing anecdote
of this navigator : — " Since the beginning of the reign of Queen Elisabeth,
there were found in Suffolk, over against Harwich in Essex, by a gentleman
called Cavendish, the bones of a man, whereof the skull was able to contain
£ve pecks, and one of his teeth is as big as a roan*s fist, and weigheth ten
Qonees. These tMXies had sometimes bodies not of beasts bat of men, ^r the
difference is maoiftsL"
That bones of prodigious tixe have been discovered in this neighborhood is
very probable ; for I have myself seen in tlie possession af Roger Peitiward,
Esq. of Finberough Hall, near Stowmarket, a petrified elephant's tooth, found
in the cliffs on tbe coast of the adjoining parish of Walton : but to suppose
that such relics as Lambard describes, could have belonged to human bodies^
would require a greater share of credulity than people at the present day ar«
disposed to exercise.
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0«7Vf OIX 971
ittf; up aboni 1730, in potting down the pott* of a cart-
Mce> it the iK8i end of Allialoii.atreet» it ia ptdUle tiial it
■sghiitaBd IkeK oppoMie ta the park of Grimatone HalL ^
The ckiapek of TuiULET St. Maby atenda ia the aaoM ehurdi-
^aid wilk thai of tike preceding paridL The ateeple now hanga ia
nana, aaAheiag oTenfaadowed by a laxoriant tree, fonaa a pio-
tnewpie object Thia chareh waa probably baih by Thonaa de
Brotkertaa, ton of Edward I. wlraae anaa are alill to be aaen or er
thedoorofthealea^e.
Wavtoh, a neat and reautilnUy pleaaaat Tillage, eoataiiyi^
■any gted lienaea^ ^vaa Imaerly aplace of eoaaidenMe aote even
tdaie the Norman Con^peat At the eaat ead of tiie Tillage ia
■CailBd Hub ehmpeb, the tower of wluch ia aearly denoliahed;
if one of the aide wka nathiag ia left bat the wall to the height
; a loot from the giooad. That part of the ediice, how*
r^ whieh ia atkU aaed, ia kept ia good r^air.
Aboat a aule from the HKHrth of the rif er Debea, aad two fiom
Orwdl Hsren, apan a high diffia Felixtow, which, till of late
ycMi, waa idwaya ledumed to be in the manor of Wahon. atood
WaHon Castle. Tradition reports it to have been one of the Ibr-
^ erected by Coaatantiae the Great, when he withdrew his
; from the froaftaer towna in the east of Britain, and baik
frrts aad caadea to aapply the want of them. The anther of the
MMk Trareller aaya:* " There caa be ao donbt bat Waltoa
Oartkwaaa BAomn fatification, aa i^^peara from the great Tariety
if Romui ome, nnga, ooias, &c. that have been found then. The
iMm/' it m added^ " that have lately beea taken np here, are of
tte Viopasian and Autonine fianilies, of Severaa, aad hia aae-
€mon, ta Goadian the Tliifd, and from GaUienoa down to Arca-
dfaa aad Honorina. It ia certain that the caatle had tiie privilege
§t eointag momtiy, iur aereral diea hare been fiMmd for that pur-
\
Here, aa Holinahed informa na, the Eari of Leioeater landed
aith hia Flemings in 1173, and waa received by HughBigod,
Earl
• Stcoad edit. p. 90.
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37t SOFFOUt.
Earl of Norfolk, then lord of tJie manor and castle of WaKon ;
and in 1176 Henry If. canaed all such castles as had been k^t
against him during that rebellion, and Walton among the rest* to
be overthrown and razed to the ground ; and this was so effec-
tually done, that to prevent its ever being rebuilt, the stones woe
carried into all parts of Felixstow, Walton, and Trimley, and foot-
paths were paved with them on both sides of the road.
The state of this ruin about the year 1722, is given in the fol-
lowing letter read in that year before the Antiquarian Society,
and preserved on their minutes. " Some distance east of this town«
(Walton) are the ruins of a Roman wall, situate on the ridge of
a cliff next the sea, between LAUguard Fort and Woodbridge Ri-
ver, or Bawdsey Haven ; it is 100 yards long, five feet high above
ground, twelve broad at each end, turned with an angle ; it is
composed of pebble and Roman bricks in three courses, all round
footsteps of buildings, and several large pieoes of wall cast down
npon the strand by the sea undermining the cliff, all which have
Roman brick* At low water-mark very much of the like is visible
at some distance in the sea. There are two entire ptUara with
balls ; the cliff is 100 feet high/'
T)ie measures given in the Suffolk TraveUer differ from those
stated by Dr. Knight. '' Part of the foundation of the west side
of it^'' says that work, '' is still to be seen, being 187 yards in
length, and nine feet thick ; it is called by the country people
the stone works. How much longer it was we cannot judge, pari
of the south end being washed away ; and the sea, which is daily
gaining npon this coast, having swallowed up the rains.' Such
was the condition of it about the year 1740, but since then the
waves have washed away the remainder of the foundation.'^*
Grose informs us, that in 1706, when the view of this places
given in his AfUupuiiei,'\ was drawn, the remains of Walton
Castle were visible only at near low water, tlie sea having grained
so considerably on this coast as to wash away the cliff on which
it stood; though, as he saya^, a gentleman living at the time he
wrote^
• Suffolk Traveller, td tdit p. €9. f VoL VUl. p, 1«7*
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SOFVOLK. 973
tlie roias tb hate ilood ai letsl fifky# yards
vUuB tlw CLtrauty of tke cliff. No vestige of this edifice is
HfV to lie seesL
iUwot s qaaiter of a loile north of Pelixstow High-street^ and
aft the sane distaiiee eastward from Walton boimds, in the parish
of Fefizstow^ are rery considerable ruins of sn ancient and mag-
idficeBt hmldiag^ known hy the appellation of Old HalL It was
pxohaUy erected soon after the demolition of the castie for the
msnor-hoose, and was the place where king Edward III. resided
iir snne time at his manor of Walton previously to his expedition
into nanee. Here, by an Iiupeximus, dated in the 12th year
of his reign, or 1339, he confirmed the charters granted to the
coiporatiffli of Ipswidi*
In this parish was fiNnmerly a priory dedicated to St Felix, the
first bidiop of the Esst-An^es, but no remains of the original
•Intcture are now to be seen. The Bigods, Earls of Noriblk, were
the fimnders and great bene&ctors to this house, as appears from
a fif^gment of a record without date, preserved in the srchives of
the Tower of London. The monks were called Monks of RochesT
tcr, because Roger Bigod, the first founder, gave it about the
year 110^ as n cell to the convent of that city. He endowed it
with the maiior of Felixstow priory, taken out of his manor of
WshoB, and with the churches of Walton and Pelixstow. It is
csn/eetored, that soon after the destruction of the castle, this
priory was removed to a field near the north side of Walton cfaArch,
where some miiui are still visible. Its site, with the great tithes
of Walton and Feliztow, and the advowson of the vicarages, was
given at the Pissolntion to Cardinal Woisey, 26 Henry VII L but
sAerwaids granted, 19 Elizabeth, to Thomas Sedcford.
LAJf&DAWLD Port stands upon a point of land which forms the
^Mi^-eamt comer of the county, at the mouth of the Orwell, and
jmf the pppesunuMae of an island at high water. Camden, who
inole hebre tlie first Ibrt was erected, says, that '* the shore is
niy well €iefeaded by a vast ridge, called Langeraton, which, for
nioiit two iQile**. lies all along out of the sea, not without grea^
VpuXlV. T danger
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S74 SUFFOLK.
^ngc»im4 terror to mariners. 'Tis however of use to the fiaher-
men for drying of their fish, and does in a manner fence the spacioos
harhour of Orwell."
The first fort most have heen built at the eommeneement of the
reign of Charles I. ; for it appeltrs (torn the register of the bishop
of Norwich, tlutt the chapel was consecrate hy that prelate u
lying within his jorisdiction On the 7di of September, 1688. ' It
had four bastions, the King's, the Queen's, Warwick's, and Hoi*
land's, with fifteen very large guns upon each, and stood a little to
the north of the present fort, on the spot* whieh is now the borial
place for the garrison. Near this spot the Dutch, in 16^, landed
three thousand men at the foot of Felixstow cliff, and marching
under cover of some sand-hills towards the fort^ lodged them-
selves within musket-shot on two sides of it After an hoar's
incessant firing with their small arms, they were put to flight
by the discharge of two or three small guns in a little gaHiot
among the shingle, which Scattered the pebbles araong^them.
The old fort being demolished, the present was erected in its
fttead in 1718. The soil being nnfavorable for the work, the
foundations Were not laid without considerable labour and great
expense. It completely commands the entrance of the harbour,
which, though between two and three milefr over at high water,
is too shallow to admit the paj^sage of ships, except by a narrow
and deep channel 6n the Sufiblk side. A detachment of two com-
panies, from either the garrison of Ipswich ot Woodbridge, is ge*
berally on duty here.
The entrance into the fort is by a draw*bridge. Over the gate-
way is the chapel, which has lately been converted into a barrack-
room, so that divine service is now performed either under this gate-
way, or in the open "air. On the right hand is a handsome brick
building, containing the apartments of the governor and lieute-
nai^t-govemor ; and fiusing the gate another large edifiee for the
iloldiers. Fresh Water is conveyed by subterraneous pipes from
Walton, a distance of about thr^ miles. The present governor is
lieutenant-genertd lister^ appointed in 1801, with a salary of
' 3651.
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BDFPOUL mi
XSL per aniuuiL Tlie UeateoaiiUgoyenior, Alexander Mur, Esq.
wi» kw held the iHoaJtion sUice 1806, receWet 1821. lOe. a year.
Tradition afElrms, that the outlet of the Stour and Orwell was
ameoUy on the north side of Languard Fort» through Walton
aunhea, ami that the place catted the Fleets was part of this ori-
giaal channel. WhooTer ohservdt the soil and titnation of Lan«
ger Coanmon and marshes, will readily acknowledge, that they
mnst bare been furiacrly corered by the sea; and at what time
Ihey woe gained from it eannot now be aaeeitidaied : bat tint it
was ata fery" innote peiiod is demonstrated by the court-rolls of
the maiKKT id Walton, which make frequent mention of Linger
Ceamion in FeIix8to>w, upwards of two hundred years beftNre any
Art was built there. From the similariiy of sound. Bishop Gib*
sm, the kamed ediUHrof Camdra, was led to suppose that langer
wm a oaniraciion of I^mgnard ; but from the antiquity of Langer
Uraynott, it appears that the truth is the rererpe of this, and that
Uagmd m a comiptidn of Langer.
Aboat duree niiles from the fort is Fdixstow Cottage, now the
property of Sir Snrauel Bmdebell Fludyer, Bart It was Ibr-
■eriy bbt a fisherman's hut, which the taste of the eceentiie
Hkifip Thiflknease, then lieafeaant-goT«nM>r of Laagnard Fort^
converted into a chnmiing retreat This place has been described
St considerable lengih by Mrs. Thicknesse in her Memoirs; but
great altersHonn hare been made both within and without sinee
tbe period to which her account refers : in parHcular the arch,
which ahe meDlioius as being formed of huge stones in fnmt of the
cottsge, has been removed; by which means a most extensive
auine prospect in opened from the terrace that winds rouhd the
idge of die diflfon wrhidi it stands.
HUNDRED OF WILFORD«
WiUbidis boanded on the south and east by the Germaa Ocean}
^ the ncntb by the hundreds of Plomesgate and Loes; and on
T 2 the
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276 SUFFOLK.
the west by tbe lifer Deben, which separates it from Colneis»
It has DO market-town ; and the most remarkable villages in it
are:
Aldbrton, situated about two miles from the sea. Accord-
ing to Kirby, its church was dedicated to St. Bartholomew : but
Ecton has it St. Andrew. This edifice is now in rains; but
whether it owes its shattered appearance to the depredations of
lime, and the neglect of seasonable repairs^ or to some violent
tempest, does not occur in any of the writers who have described
this county : and Grose informs ns,* that in his time the inhsr
bitants of the village oould not give any satbfactory informatioD
on that head, which at least proves it to have been long in its
present state. Neither the builder, nor the time of its erection, is
known. It is a very conspicuous object at sea.
BoYTON. This manor and advowson belonged, till the Dis-
solution, to Butley Priory.' They were afterwards vested in
the family of Warner, the last of whom, Mrs. Mary Warner, de-
vised th^m, together with an estate of about 400L a year, to trus-
tees, to be applied to charitable uses : a small portion to the
relief of the poor of Parham ; another to the endowment of a school
at Stradbrook ; 'the principal part to the foundation and mainly
nance of an alms-house at this place; and the overplus for tho
relief of insolvent debtors in the county. In pursuance of this
will, an alms-house, called after the name of the foundress, was
erected in 1743, at Boy ton, for six poor men, and the same
number of women, who receive a weekly allowance in money and
clothing, and who are to attend diviue service every day at ths
church, which stands very near the house, and the reader of
which is allowed 401. per annum out of the charity. ,
HoLLESLEY, not fsf from the mouth of Orford river, gives
name to a bay, which has of late years begun to be frequented by
his majesty's ships of war. In this bay two pieces of cannon of a
very singular construction were picked up by some sweepers for
anchors, in August 1804. They are about eleven feet in length,
tha
* AntiquUia, V. 15.
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soFiOLX. 977
He toe tmineheB «l the noak, and three «kihe oUmt extraie,
k the numer of m rifle. The gust, from their make, must have
fceen loaded at tlie buM^end, and a breech then fixed in and wedged,
Oe eyes wkidi kefi the wedge being qnite perfect. No touch-
hole can be discovered on the barrel, it is therefore probable that
it was contained in the breech. They were first formed with a
band or tobe of hammered iron, and thin hoops, about three
inches wide, were [driven on and welded into a solid body. They
went with swivels on a carnage, and have a long tail in the sh^ie
of a pomp handle. When first discovered they were literally. oe»
mented togeUier, and were with difficulty parted.*
hovDBAM, a hamlet of Petiistree, was anciently the seat of a
fradly who took their name fromit This estate afterwards be-
came the property of Sir Henry Wood. The Hall, surrounded
withn park, was rebuilt in an elegant manner by Charles Wood,
Es^ and, hmving passed through several hands, is now the pro-
perty and residence of Jacob Whitbread, Esq.
At MfLTOH, a small neat village about a mile from Wood-
faiidg^ on the road to Saxmundham, were formerly held the
Qasiter SesaionB for the Liberty of St Etheldred, till they were
remsved to Woodbridge in the beginning of the reign of Queen
Elizabeth.
Here is the House of Industry for the hundreds of Loea
and Wilfard, ineocporated in 1765. This edifice is ou a more
extended and expensive scale than most of the other establish-
■eati of the kind in the county. The dining-hall and dqrmlto-
ries are very spacaooa and neat; the governor's apartments large
sad coovenient. There are also apartments appropriated to the
aseofthesor^geon^ who, as well as the school-master, resides in
the house. Crood rooms are provided for the boys and girls'
schools ; and there are likewise apartments fitted up a^ penitentiary
Hgiags Ibr lelraetory persons, and those who may be guilty of
ofinees reqnirins ^oUtary restraint The original debt incurred
Ta by
# These cuiioos specimens of Ihe ancient mode of fabricsdng cannon are
Kw to be seen at tbe ihop-door of a tradesman at Ipswich.
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278 «irPFOLk.
by these hnntlreds "was 9,2001. whicb has sinee-'lieeii iffcr^as^ ftf
10,0501. The maximam of the poors*' rates/ at th^fime of tWf
incorporation, was not more than fifteen pence in the pound -an-
nnally, and continues the same. The nitrnW of po6r itt'.Ai^
house genendiy amounts to about 240, irho are chiefly enploy««l
in mann&ctures of linen and woollen, the first prineipalty'fof*
their own use. The children ar^ also instructed ill diAireiit
trades, such as making clothes, shoes, &e. '
Ramsholt, on the banks of the rfyer I>^b6n, is iremarldAble
for the ruins of a largtf ancient building called Peyton HaU, which
is conjectured to'faave been the seat of th6 Ufib^ds, Earls of Sof*
iblk. In 1135, Reginald de Peyton was lord of the manors of
Peyton Hall, in Boxford, and Ramsholt; and' in 58 ^Henr^ ilf .
Robert de Uffbrd, a younger son of John de Peyton, of Peyton
Hall, assuming his name firom the lordship of Uflbrd, where he
then resided, was appointed lord justice of Ir^nd, and becime
the founder of a distinguished family.
Ufforb, a place of no note at present, but formerly of some
eminence, as giving name to the illustrioas family of th^ U]ffi>rd^,
Earls of Suffolk, and containing one of their mansions; which
was situated about two furlongs to the north of the church, on
the spot where now stands a farm-house appropriated to charita-
ble uscfr in Framlingfaam. The possessions of this family were
▼ery extensive, and at one time embraced the castles of Orfordj
Eye, Framlingham, Bungay, Mettingham; and'Hau^hly.
K«ar the ruins of a chapel in this parish called Sogenkde Cha-
pel, is a piece of ground in the form of a rectangular parallelo-
gram, containing about an acre and an half, surrounded by a
pioat. Here tradition reports a castle to have once stood; but
we have no account of any ruins being discovered there to ooim*
tenance tCe coi\jecture;
The church, which is a small, but handsome structure, con«
tains monuments for some of the Woods, of Loudham. Weever
observes, that in his time the people had a tradition, that sevoral,
if not aDj the Vthrdu, Earb of Suffolk^ were interred in it; but
addB»
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tVlffOUE. (.S99
Aim of the fattily of l4ah». mh^ bad be«o giwl beii^lMlon la
Ab diwdi^ Umw .aMA«». and Ihe figurev «/ Umb»> i^e carved in
■Hjr piita o£.tkt w#o4*WMfc mi ceiling. The interior cf this
jiiiidMc KM .t»cie UgUy4eniMiieiited» bsi suffered vittck fiom
the pontiAinl Vandsfe of Ihe 17th centiiry. In the jouml of
Ihoiririloi^ anointed to. destroy .what they vere f leaaed to can-
sUer aa^iyiJMlhiaus relka ia .thiii <Miily» Ihay say, ** We hroke
tUrty fietaresi.and gave directioBs lo take dovn titirty-aeven
and £Miy ebenihans to be taken down of weod» and the
I to bb levelled; and vre took op six inscriptioDm in brass.''
Hiis «as in Jannary 1648, and it appears, thai in Hay foUowiag,
Ifa^soBtapcnoa to seo^^if their ciders had been obeyed; h^t
the cfanrdiipardens denied him admission. In the month of An-
gnst, thereleie, they vetnn&ed in. person to complete the wcik of
destnclion. ''We faiok^'^ says the journal, '' twelye chembims
en the roof of the chancel, and nigh an hundred Jesns's and Ma-
nw in capital letters, aad the steps we levelled. And we broke
de«nthooegaaH»sea, aad gate them to tiie poor. In the ehorcb,
than waa on tfie voo< above an hnndred Jesaa's and Marias^ in great
espitf leltera, and a crosier .staff to break down in glaae^ and
above tmoly atsis on the roof. There is a glorioas cover over
tbeia^ like a pope's .trij^ crown, with a pelican on the tc^*
picking its breoat, all gilt over witii gold." This cover to the
fat is still in being, obaervea the author of the Suffolk Travel-
kr, thoog^ mneh impwred by length of time. Had the pelican
oB the top been a dove, it' would doubtless have shared a harder
Me, Bnt as those men, though provoked and put out of temper
if thechnrch-wardensy* coidd not prevail on tfaemaelves to de-
stroy so pretty a thing, even notwithstanding its resemhUnce to
the pope's <ax»vm^ it is a pity the panshiimers do not think it
dT4 ivorth
Th e ▼ifitors complatn bitterly in tlieir Jouns] of cbe old cliarch-wardein»
ibr not obeying their orden; and of the new onei, ibr making them wait
twotafs before they wosld deliTet the key of the chorch, as well ai for
abiibg» aad cbergM^a them withrifliog and pulliog down the lacred edifice*
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5280 SUFTOLR.
worth while to rofMur it; for though it be bnl a toy in itself, iib
now become venerable by its antiquty, and ie, perio^, the oaly
thing left^ that gives any notion of the nagntteenoe of the U&
Ibrdn.* Mr. Goagh describee this corions reltc of antiqaity, ss b^
ing elaborately executed^ and rising pyramidally to the very root
The Rev. Richard Lovekin, rector of this parish 57 years, was
an extraordinary instance of longevity. The mandate of his ia-
ductioD bears date Jane 2d 1621, and he was bnried September
63d, 1678, in the one hundred and eleventh year of his age. This
venerable divine is said to have perfanaed all the duties of hb
function to the last, and to have preached the finnday before hia
death. During the civil commotions under Charles L he was
plundered of every thing he possessed, except one silver spoon*
which he hid in his sleeve.
Roger Ottley, a native of Ufford„and brought up to the bnai-'
ness of a grocer, in Loudon, was lord*mayor of that city m
1434.
WicKHAM Market retains its addition, in order to distangnish
it from two other Wickhams in this county. It was femeily
a place of much greater importance than at present, and had not
only a market, which has long been disused, but also a shii»-faaU»
where the quarter-sessions were. held; which edifice was resMT*
ed by order of the lord of the manor, and with the materiala a
fiurm-house, called the Old Hall, was built at Letheringhanu The
spiritual courts for the archdeaconry of Suffidk are still held
here. The church is situated on a hill ; the spire steeple, thoagh
not above seventy feet high, is a sea»marfc, and conunands as or*
tensive a prospect as any in the county ; for in a clear day the
spectator may discern from it no fewer than fifty churches. The
aisle, or chapel on the south<4ude, was built by Walter FuHwra,
of Wickham, who was there interred in 1489.
The rectories of Wickham, Pettistree, and Bing, all in this
hundred, were bequeathed, in 1718, by Mr. John Pemberton, for*
meriy of Ipswicli, to charitable uses. He directed that, out of
. tfce
* SoiTolk Trmr. td. Edit p. 116,
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stnpfoUL 881
Ik leraivei, VL per aoMm Bhodd be g;iTea to the widowi aad
evpbaM of decewed dergynen, wilhin fifteen milee of Ipewieh;
iml Ihi ifiindfr, after dttcharging tULes, repeira, and all other
oal-gomga» he gave to the charity achoob of Grey-eoal hoy%
aad Blao-eoatgiila m the last aeiitioBed town.
HUNDRED OF LOES.
Loea ia honnded on tiie east, hy the hundred oi Plomeagate; on
tin aa«th» hy Willbrd; on the west by Carlford, Boamore and
Ciaydon^ and Thredling; and on the north, by Hoxne. It oon-
teina the two maifcet-towna of Frunlingham and Woodbridge;
Framuhoham is a pariah <tf large extent^ at the northern ex-
trenuty of die hundred, comprebendhig upwards of 5000 aerea of
rich araUeand paatnreland, with 388 houaea, and 1864 inhabit-
aata. The town is of high antiquity, its name being composed
of the Saxon woids frtwMmg and ham, which impliea the
hahitetion of strangers. It is pleasantly situated on an eminence,
near the soniee of the riTer Ore,, which rising from the hills to
die north of the town, ftJls into a mere, or lake, covering several
acrea, and then, passing through the town, proceeds southward
to. Orfcrd. The marfcet-plaee k very spacious, and forms nearly
an equilateral triangle, in the centre of which stood an ancient
maricet-croaa, which has lately been taken .down* The houaes
on the north-side of the BMrket-hill, are built on the site of the
hall behmging to a guild, or fraternity, incorporated in the agea
of popery, by the name of the Guild of the Blessed Viigin Mary.
The market is held on Saturdays, and there are two yearly &irs,
on Monday and the two following days in Whitsun-week, and on
the 29th of September.
The Ckmrck is a large stately structure, built of black flint,
with a steeple 96 feet high, containing a clock, chimes, and eight
bella. The body of thia church is 64 feet long, dO wide, and
44 high: and the chancel is 61 feet in length, 68i in width, com-
prehending
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prehen4uig tbe side dsles/ and 39 in height. ' the tBoi 9t ibe
iiave is of 09k, ewiously -canred, and supported by ^gjkt <icla-
gonal piUara, four in a row, besides fimr demy one« lately painted
tft imitation of white marble, and veined. The interior is well
paved and pewed, and oontains a good organ, erected in 1706.
The body of the church is supposed to have been built by the
Mowbrays, Dnkes of Norfolk ; but the chancel is of later date,,
being the woric of the Howards^ their' sneeessors : and its two
aisles having been erected for the burial places of those familiee,
«ra stUI naintamed by the lords of the manora of FreoalinghaiD^
•€egge8hAll, and Debenh^m, out of the revenue of thelf estate^
Ibrmerly belonging to^ thoae dukes.
Sinreral persons of high distiocticHL are interred in thin ehnreh.
In the nerth aisle of the chancd is a nfagnificent tni^ of black
•mnd white marble, on ?vhieh lie the iiguces of tie Eail of Smney
and his conatess^ with the pdms of their hands oonjldned; the
-fdrmer in his robes of stat^ over armour, biti without n c<»o&elt»
which, as he was beheaded, is placed on the toinh by fain side;
the latter in sable, with a coronet at'her hea4» and ^having their
crests at their feet. The heads of these ^res met on donUe
eashienn, curiously wrought and gilt At a titlld distance ftma
the east and west ends of the pedestal, are represented the two
sons and three danghters of tibe noble pair, afl- kneeling, the sonn
habited as their &ther, and the danghters in robes 4if state over
mourning, like their mother. This monnmenl is eopionsiy en-
riched with trophy*work> admirably well cut in rdievo, likewise
painted and gilt, having on the south aide the followmg inscrip-
tion in gold letters :
HENRICO HOW Anno THOMJS SECVVOt BVCfS
NORPOLCIJS FILIO PRIMOGENITO THOM S TBRTII
PATRI COMITI 80RRIJB ET OEORGlANf ORDIlflfl
EQTITI AVRATO, IMMATVRE ADINO 6ALVTI8
MDXLVI AEREPTO, ET FRANCISCJB VXORI
EJ10 FILIA I0AKNI8 COM ITI8 OXOKIBj HBKRICV8
HOWAROV8
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•« imo^DOifiin 1614. •
Ob ibe %e«lBide of tlik iastriptioii ai^ the »nn of HoUlffd,
vith fatt ^sflrtttiBgbi iritiuii »garlet^ lad alidTlitliem aa earl's co-
miet; oatkecasd* thetMi «f Va« Aitkin a ebaplet of lanrel
Rir tiie aaiflteaante and i^^ of tliia vMomiieat, Uie Earl of
VoUip^kairi diteeted the aannal paynieiit 4f ibity sIdWiigB, by
the hospital which he Mmded at Gmnidch.
This Eari of SUKrey vaa aon of Thomas/ second dake of Nor-
Mk,hs Bliaheth^ daaghler of Edward Slaflbrd, Duke «f Bad>
laghaan^- Ja 34- Henry VIII. he aoeompanied the army, com-
.aiaadod by his lather, as lieutenant-general, which entered Scot-
lead and bomed seTcrsl TiUages. Two years afterwards he was
J»ld*aianhal*of the English troops, in the expedition against
.1ls«fegae> in Pnuice, and after the redaction of the place, was
JkppMatadrtha.'kiag'8 lieutenant, and eaptain*general of ail hh
amy H that- eeiuitry. This BoUeman> sa^s Dugdale, was the
aMSt learned among the nobility, and the most noble among the
teamed, betag Abo a person very gracious with the people, ex-
pat 4a i^e fliftlilaiy art, and esteemed it for ' puUic goremment.
Vkm» ^irtaes, aMtfais' popalarity, however, proved his ruin by
«xcitiaef the jealdasy of the King. Treason was therefore al-
ladged against hiffli and- on this surmise he was committed, with
bis ftth^, ti» the ton^ ^f London, the otie by water, and the
athet by landT, each ignorant of ^e other^s apprehension, on the
12th of Decemb^, In the last year of Henry YIII. On the I5th
of tiie ibllowiag- month the earl was arraigned at Gnildhail, London;
'where the pi^aeipal aceasation brought against him was, that he
bad asBomed the arms of Edward the Confessor, which, as it was
aHedged, belonged to the king and heir apparent alone, but the
bearing of which he jiutified by the opinron of the heralds. The
first
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984 SOFfOiib
first witness that appeared against kim was Sir Ridutfil Soath*
well, whodedared, that he koew oertain thingt of the earl whieb
affected his fidelity to the king. The earl» upon this, ▼ehemently
affirmed hioiself to be a trve man, desiring to be tried by justice,
or permitted to fight in his shirt with Southwell. Another wit-
ness was brought forward, who pretended, that in a disconrse
with the eart the latter used such high words that '' abraying an-
swer was retuned,'' to which this gallant and high spirited no-
bleman made no other reply than, that ** he left it to the jury to
judge whether it were probable that this man should use sueh ex-
pressions to the Eari of Surrey, and he not strike him again.*'
Though nothing like proof, even of the firiTolous all^gatioas
against him, was produced, yet such was the jealousy which the
tyrannical Henry entertained of this nobleman, that folly deter-
mined on his death, he caused him to be found guilty by a com-
mon jury, and beheaded on Tower Hill four days afterwards,
which was but nine days before the death of the king himself
His remains were, at first, interred in the chapel of the Tower,
but in the reign of James I. were removed hither by his second
son, Henry, Eari of Northampton. He left issue by his countcM,
who survived, two sons, Thomas, afterwards Duke of Norfolk,
who fell like his fother, by the hand of the executioner, under
Elizabeth, on account of Mary, queen of Scots; and the above-
mentioned Earl of Northampton; and three daughters, Jane^
Margaret, and Catharine, the care and education of whom he
comndttedto their aunt, the duchess dowager of Ridimond and So-
merset The lady Jane was afterwards married to Charies, Eari
of Westmoreland; the lady Margaret, to Henry, Lord Scrope, of
Bolton; and the lady Catherine, to Henry, Lord Berkeley; and
the countess their mother gave her hand to Francis Stoyning, Esq.
about the conclusion of the reign of Edward VI.
A little to the eastward of this monument is a small tomb of
freestone, adorned with seven fluted pilasters of the Ionic oidiv,
with a niche in the wall, having also two pilasters of the same or-
der, erected for Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Howard, Duke of
Norfolk,
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•DTfOLX. 9M
VicMk, Vy Uft aeeori idle, the liidy Htfgtte^
■M, Loid Avdky^ Baron of WaUeik 8he died in lier iniaMy,
aaiHia pnMble lliaft liie niehe ma Ibnneiiy oeeopied by liar
SliU brtker eaalvard tiiere ia a ^aciona moanflMBl el free-
enzidied with the iaiagea of two of the dneheatea of tha
Thoaaa, Duke of Nodblk, lying in their Ml
propertionB, with dneal ooionela on their heada, in lehea of alale^
having a Tacaney capaUe of adautlang another to be plaead be-
tween thenb The head of one rerta on a horie eondtant^ with a
hartat layer at herfeel, made lor Che Lady Mary, daoghtcr and
heir of Henry Fitx-Alan, Earl of Amndel, the firrt wife. The
head of the other repeeea on a tiger cellared and chained, with a
wtTem at her feet; thia waa fw thednke'a aeeond wife, the Lady
Haigarel, daughter and heir of Thomaa, Lord Andley, Baron of
Walden, Lord ChanceDor of England. Theae ladiea were bath
widowa, and their eoata of arma are round the Unmh, in ao«e
pkcgawngle, and in oftheta impaled with thoae of Howard, be-
tneen thirteen fluted oolomna of the Corinthian order. At the
fear angiea are aa many lions seyant, aiqpporting the anna of
Howard.
Southward from the kat ia another apacioua tonb of freeatone,
oeeled fer Henry Fitzroy, the natural ton of King Henry VIIL
The length of thia tomb ia nine feet two inchea, it ia five feet
vide, and fott' feet nine inches high. On the top, which b now
plain, but wluch ia anppoaed to have been formerly adorned with
digiea, are four email imagea atanding erect at the comora, each
aqpporting a trophy of the paiaion. The lower part of the four
sides is adorned with aixteen fluted pihatora of the Ionic order,
aad between them are the dake'a own arma inqwled and difler-
eatly quartered with thoae of Howarl In email pannda aboTO
these are reprnacnted, in basso reliero, several of the moat re*
■aiUileeTenta in the Old and New Testament, with Curiatidaa
between them.
The aiother af Henry Pitzroy was Lady Elizabeth Talboyse,
widow
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tM nvnoiK.
widow of -Sir GiAert Talboyse, and daoghter of Sir John Blast,
a iMly, who is dotcribed as being e(}iially diatrngniiihed for heaaty
of person,, and intellectual acconiplishnients. He was bon
at Blackamor, in Essex, in the tenth year of Henry's- reigs.
At tiie a|^e of six yean, the king appointad hki a Knight of the
Garter, and created him Eiorl of Nottingham, Dnke of RMh
mend and Somerset, Lieitenant General beyond Trent, Warden*
general of the borders of Seotlandy and sdon afterwards admirsi
of Engliiid« Not satisfied with conferring these honors, Henry;
in the 2^' year of his reign, gare him this important pest of lord
Uentenant of Ireland, but on' aeoount of his tender age, Sir WiU
liam Skeffyngton was appointed hia depnty; Tlis yoiith madi
Henry Howard, Earl of Sorry, his companion in his studies in
England and France, and so strong was the friendship which Ihe^
in consciqaenee contracted for each other, that he married Lady
Mary, the earl's sister, but their nuptials were notbonsonuBitod',
fer the dnke, to^tbe great grief of the king, died at St. James's
in 15M, aged about 17 years, and was interred ' here. He was a
youth of great promise, aikd possessed superior endownlents, both
corporeal and mental.
On the south side of the altar is a stately tomb of free-stone,
nine feet long, six wide, and five high, with the effigies of Tho-
mas Howard, second duke of Norfolk, and one of his duchesses,
who was either his first wife, the Lady Ann^, one of the dangh*
ters of King Ed^rard lY. or the second, tlie daughter of Edward
SlafiK>rd, Duke of Buckingham. They are represented at lull
length, in their robes of state, with coronets upon their heada
The sides and ends of tbis monument are adorh^ wi^ eighteen
4M>tomns of the Composite order, and the Ibiercbhnnniations are
iburleen niches, containing figures of the apostles and erangeliatsiy
finely exeooted in alto relieve. 'At each of the four angles ia a
atrong detached pillar, on the top of which rest the arma of
Howard within the Garter, supported by a lion seyant on the
comer of the tomb. The helmet and crest are on the north lAde
of the monument, upon an iron fiwtened in the wall, on the south
side
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timouL an
fiTAe ckncd •ftr Ike akHr, Ttav k m c«H Ibr llii
b«Me it kcMiMtaei Unlike My kn« ttfiMiBMii
K Aikc^ am^ wife, Ike MttMT ol HeuT, £hI «f 8«ny{
^tke iatm, dlertte «tluiiacr of ker fetb«r vk* korelkt
ki^^ afas» p^ m Haak fwiter ki Ike pliM wkeie k«r «mi
lAoay kave ken nagvA is kk coftt Tke tanaftitti of Iken
anas wms ew «f tke ckiigvB aDe^ged, «s w« kife aeei^ rngtw*
kis aoB, Ike Evl of Soiry, at kis oondemaatioBu
Tke BoUeMOi to vkoM seawiy tkia nomuMMt wtt omted,
was tke SOS of Tkonus HovanI, Doke of Noilolk» wko cwaimdl^
edike Biigliak amy ia tke nemorakle faatUe of FlodAw iM4
wkcre tke Scotck were totally defeated, and tkek kiag hiaaelf
flkiB. HUaotkerwasEiixaketk, da«gkt«raadkarea»ofSirF^
deric Tiiaey, Knt. aad widow of Hvoykry Bo«rckier« Lotd Ber*
His serriceB, botk in Ike cabinet and tke fields were too
\ to be hest particalamed. He was comnander-ia-ckief
of aereral snecessfol expeditions against the F^ncb and Scots ;
and was twice appotaled to tbe important affioe of lord liontenant
«f Ireland. He was one of tbe pecaona selected to acoonpany tk«
King of France to Ni^e^ when tbey met the P^o and E^tpmr
of Gemany^ fot tbe paipoae of conferring together on th^ 9ab-
jeet of tbe king's divorce; and some yean aiUrwarda be was again
sent as ambassador to the French court. Notwitbitanding the
signal services wbicb be bad rendered to fah soveraign in
these various capacities^ and tbe approved fidelity ^hich be
bad invariably manifested, Henry VIII. shortly before his
death, snfiered himself to be persuaded that the duke and
bis mm bad conspired to wrest the gavemment from bis hands,
and ordered them botk to be apprehended: the one, says Sir
Walter Raldgfa, whose desorvings he knew not how to value,
having never omitted any thing that concerned bis own^ honour
<Nrthe king's service; tbe other never having committed any
thing worthy of bis displeasure-— the one exceedingly valiant and
advised ^ the other no less letaied, and of excelleat hepes. The
6 duke
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288 SCrFOLK.
duke WouU hare shared the frte of Eib gallant ton, a warmft
having been sent to the Toiler for his execution, but he waa pro*
Tidentially preeenred by the king's death, which happened the
very next day. It was not thought proper to stain the com-
BMneement of a new reign with the blood of one of the greatest
noblemen in the kingdom, who being thus rescued from undeserved
destruction, retired to Kenninghall, in Norfolk, where he died, ia
Southward of the preceding, is the monument of Sir Robert
Hitcham, consisting of a table of black marble, supported at
the c<»iierB by four angels of white marble, with gilt hair and
wings, each having one knee on the ground. Under the centre
of the table is an urn, and at the west end, on an upright stona
of Uack marble, is this insinription^ in gold letters :—
rbadbr:
IN KXPICTATIOV OP THE COBOWG OF OVE LORD JBSU8, BBUK
LTBTB T^. BODY OF BIB ROBBBT BITCRAM KT. BORN AT LBVING*
TON IN T*. COVNTT OF SUFfTsCHOLLOR IN TB. FRBB-SCHOOU
ATtFSWICBB AND SOMB TlMB OFPEMBROKB BALL IN CAMBRJDGR
AND AFTER OF GRATES INNB ; ATTOENET TO aVEENE ANNE
IN T^. FIRST YEARS OF KING JAMES, THEN KNIGHTED ; AND
AFTERWARD MADE Y«. KING's SENIOR 8ERIEANT AT LAW, AND
OFTEN JVDGS OF ASSISE : AGED 64 YEARES, DYED
THE 15 DAY OF AVGV8T ANNO
1636.
TSB CHILDRBN NOT YBT BORNB WITO GLADNB88 8HA1.
TBY PIOYS ACTIONS INTOMBMORYB CALL;
AND THDY 8BALT UVB AS LONG AS THBRB 8BALL BEE,
BITHBR POORB OR ANY VSB OF CBARITIB.
Immediately 9ver the door of the chancel, is a neat mural monu**
ment of dark grey marble, by the celebrated Roubillac, to the me«»
9 moiy
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tUFffOUL 98t
( n this divch ire boI roBukiMe «Uwr
f, or the persons wkoatkey conmemonile, «■•
ve except tint of Mr. Robert Hmwes, wlio is iD*
a phw grey stone in tiie sonth aisle of tlie clmncel.
of tlie lordslup of Frunlingham, to Pembrokn
Celcge, OiMfcriily . He eonpiled tlie greater part of the Hislovj
of FVunlingkaM, pdUisked by the lite Mr. Robert Loder of Wood-
bridge, ind iIbo that of the other towns ind parishes in the hun-
dred of I^ies, A nnnnsGript copy of his work wis presented by
the anthor to Pembroke College, which gave him a luge siWtt
cnp ind cover, adorned with the anns of the college, not siys tha
Latin inscHptioa upon it, is an adequate reward of his merits, bu|
IS a memorial of their grateful acceptance of his favour.
In that part of the town^ situated on the west side of the rirer,
are two Alwu4um$es, built of brick. One of these was founded ia
10S4, in parsnince of the will of Sir Robert Hitchitn, for twelva
of the poorest persons in Framlingham, to each of whom he al«
lotted two shillings a week, and forty shillings a year for a gowa
and firing. The weekly allowance has lately been augmented ta
four shillings, and each person receives an additional chaldron
and a quarter of coals. The habit is a blue coat, with the anna
of Hiteham, in colours worn on the left shoulder. They arc \m
attend prayers morning and evening at church; and therefora
Sir Robert left 201. a year to a clergyman to perform this duty«
and 51. for the clerk and -sexton.
The other alms-house was founded by one Thomas Mills, who
was originally a tailor, and afterwards followed the occupation of
a wheelwright, at Framlihgham, where he became a preacher
among the Baptists, and married a lady, who possessed con*
sideraUe property, and died before him. This property he left
at his death, in 1703, to trustees^ who, in pursuance of his will
erected this alms-house for eight poor persons, who are allowed
half Ik crown a week, besides an outward garneat, and thirty
Vot. XIV. U ahiUingi
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9^^ SOFFOLK.
^hiUin^ a year each, for firiii^. Two of the apartmentiy hoirf
ever, were built by William Mayhew, servant to Mr. Milla, ^1^
his own expence^ These eight persons enjoy the benefactioa
for life, unless turned out by the trustees, for any misda'
meaner.
In the garden of the house, in Framlingham, in which is de-
posited the chest, containing the evidences belonging to tlur
estates of Mr. Mills, ia a small building, covered with lead,, and
a vault below, in which he, and his old servant Mayhew, are
interred. Upon the tomb ia a Mack marble slab, with this u^
scription :
'* Here lyeth interred y«. body of Thomas Mills, late of
Framlingham, in the county of Suffolk, who departed this lile,
January the 13th, Anno Dom. 1703, in the Eightieth Year of his
Age.
" Who gave an Almes-house and other large gifts to the town
^f Framlingham, and to six other towns, where his estate lay."
The other gifts here mentioned consist of donations of bread,
and the other towns are Ufford, Pettistree, Wickham, Dalling-boo,
Parham, and Dennington.
Framlingham has a Free-School, founded also by Sir Robert
Hijtcham, with a salary of forty pounds a year to the master, to in-
struct forty of the poorest children of this town in reading, writings
and arithmetic, and ten pounds each, to bind them out apprentieeSr
Within these few years a substantial new brick school-house has
been erected adjoining to, and forming the north-wing of the alms-
house, founded by the same gentleman : the former, situated in the
market-place having been taken down for the accommodation of the
inhaMtants.
The most remarkable feature, and the principal ornament of
Framlingham, arc the ruins of its ancient and msjestic CasHe^
Though nothing of this venerable structure is still standing
but the outer wall ; yet, a» it has been justly observed, it still
looks more like a castle than the ruins of one. Its form is cir-
cvlar^ or rather an irregubr curve, approaching to a circle, the
walla
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SUFFOLK. 991
tslfe foty-lMar feet higk, and oglit tluck. Tbey are fbnked
witJt thirleeo aqure towers, Iburieea feet higbcr than tbe raai^
parta; and tlicse^ togelber with the hattlements, are still re*
■ftining in solBcient perfection to give a tolerable idea of the
wIh^ The |irincipal gate-way, and entrance into the castle>
is on the sooth aide ; over it are the arms of Howard, Brotherton,
Warren, Mowbray, Segrave, and Brews, or Breos of Crower in
WaJes, <piartered in one escutcheon, with lions for snpporters,
and above, a lion passant, resting npon a helmet. These anno*
rial besrings are well cot in stone, and like the outer walls of
the gate^way, are in good preservation. The western out-works,
and east postern, are mere ruins in comparison with the exterior
wails of the casUe itself; yet enough of them remains to enable
the antiquary to discover, with very little trouble, their con*
stmctaonand extents
Within the walls, which comprehend an area of one acre,
dne rood, and eleven perches, not a room, and scarcely a vestigo
of one, remains. So complete is the demolition of all the sump-
taons apartments which the castle must have contained in tho
days of its splendour, that, though many thousand loads of rub-
bish have recently been removed, not a single foundation has
been discovered in a state of preservation, sufficient to ascertain
the interior arrangement Even the cellars, the dungeons, and
sobterraneons passages, of which tradition has preserved the me-
mory of no inconsiderable number, appear to have undergone
the same fete with the buildings on the snrfece, since the whole
appeared upon excavation to be one uniform mass of building
yiaterials, without order or design. The mortises that received
the timbers of the floors, the marks of ancient roofe, the windows
find fere-places, still indeed prove the former existence of nu-
merous apartments ; but except the situation of the chapel, whicli
o»y be easily known from its east window yet remaining, all is
bbried in complete confusion. Out of the rubbish of former mag-
Bifipence ha^ been erected a work-house, and a kind of alms-
U 2 house
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iHKiBe for the reception of a certain number of paii^eni ; to tfiat
the very spot which was once the residence of royalty, is new
the abode of poverty and he^less age. .Tiie contrast between the
former and the present occupants of this once mapuficent pile is
too striking not to ^igage the attention of the moralist, aad ta
lead him to reflect, if not with pain, at least with humility^ on the
fickleness of all human grandeur.
For want of other evidence respecting the internal arrangemeBl
of this structure, we must refer to such descriptioBs of it as am
still extant, though these indeed are very brief. Camden ob*
serves, that Framlingham is a very beautiful castle, fortified with
a rampire, a ditch, and a wall of great thickness, with thirteea
towors : within it has very convenient lodgings. Dr. 8am{K
son, who, in 1663, wrote a brief history of this castle*, says:
*' It was inwardly furnished with buildings v«y commodions aad
necessary, able to receive and entertain many. In the first oaurt
was a deep well of excellent workmanship, composed with carved
pillars, which supported a leaden roof; and though out of repahr,
was in being in 1651. In the same court was also a neat clmpel*
now wholly demolished (1657), and transported into the high*
ways. There m&e in the building divers arms, some of stone,
some in wood, to be seen anno 1651, as of Bigod, Brothevton,
8^rave, and Mowbray; andunder a window largdy carved and
painted, were quarterly the arms of St Edward, King and Con-
fessor, and those of Brotherton under a chapean, turned np er«
mine, supported by two white lions; for the bearing whereof
Thomas, Earl of Surrey, the son of Thomas, seeond Bake of
Norfolk of that name, lost his head in the dSth year ol Henry
VIII. Also on the hall-gate, &irly cut in stone, were the arms
of Brotherton impaling Bourchier, quartered with Lovaynci, siqi*
ported by a lion and an eagle. There were likewise an old door
and a great iron ring, garnished with ducal coronets." Loder,
the last historian of Framlingham, after mentkming the well, in
thft
* Inserted in telan^i ColUctanctt Vol. If I. 8vo. 1774w
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817FFOLK. 295
the «0rd» of Dr. Sampson *, gives the following^ addttional pir-
Ikilftn, derived from Leverl&nd'ft nrul other manuscripts: " A
^O^ tiood tn the name court, artjfiining tbe east watch-tower,
wliliik im llie mgn i>f King Henry VllI, was hung with cloth of
inifta, of tlie Ubtory of Christ'jj ]*as;sion^ and a lamp of the
▼ahie of seT«ii shillings was usudty burned before the altar there.
Th» hail, irhich was coYered with lead, was situated on the other
taidr of the court, toward l!ie west wn tcli-tower, and between the
laD and tlic chapt^l, fronting the great castle-g^te, was a large
<i:hMi^r with seFeral rooms, and cloister nnder it, which waa
^nflod ikwii In the year 1 700, Tim room is said to have been
kia^ with tapestry, wroa^^lit with the story of Hercules, which
ti bfflicTrd to lie the same that now ornaments the seat of Lord
Bii>4irooke, mt Aitdlcy End* Out of the castle were three pas-
SN(ci; one A postern, with an iron gate on the east side, over a
pirate bridge^ leading into the park, the remains of which are
now itaoding ; another on the west aide leading to a dungeon,
and ISorth on to the Mere ; and another, which was the grand one,
Bod which id litill used^ on the f»outhcrn Bide towards the town.''
FmmJing^hain Castle wa^ straiigly fortified both by nature, and
11^ being tfferiually dt fended on the west side by the Mere,
idl'«li the others liy two hroad and very deep ditches, that com-
mnairaled- wit^ it. To these means of security were added vari-
fttm offt'-worka, of whicli some reuiains may yet be traced, espe«
tnlly tho0e of tlie Barl/tcati, a Ktron;^ fortification, which stood
MwtTrii thi two ditcher, a;id nerved to flank the grand draw-
tridgis. Thi^, t<»0ether witti a strong niachicolated and embattled
U 3 gate
* Dr. Stmpum wa4 prc&dier «t Fninliiigliam sereral yean dnriog the civil
cnmisotiooi nod err Cbarlei L Durm^ hia rotidence there he pabliihed bi»
ccgrcct edltioo of the leamecl theses of Mr. lliQinas TatliCt, intittded Methfh
dfti DivhtM G^ati^* He collecrted Eti&tertals form Uiitory of NoDconformity«
prftt pan of whteh l« itiierttsd In Calamy't AhridgmtHt of Baxter't Life and
Tmum Afterwunia TclmquVihlng the eeclcsiasiical for the medical profenion^
ia which be look bia doctor's degree, Ite travelled for some years, sddthea
settled in London* wrkere he died m 1705^
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gate and jportcuUiB, the grooves of ivhich are still to be sem
formed a sufficient defence against all the modes of attack em-
ployed before the invention of fire-arms. The barbican, it is vrell
known, constituted the first member, or advanced guard of the
fortress to which it belonged. Dr. Sampson, whose work has Al-
ready been quoted, must therefore have been led into an error,
when he says, that- the walls of this castle were flanked with
thirteen towers, two of which were watch-towers, or barbicansj
corruptly called by the common people, barganys. It is evi-
dent that the work between the two ditches, which he describes
as '' an half moon of stone, about a man's height, standing in
1657/' was no other than the barbican, the foundations of which
may yet be discovered to the right of the bridge ; but it is more
than probable, that the perseveriog industry of a gardener, who
rents part of the land, situated between the outer and inner ditch,
will soon destroy every vestige of this venerable relic.
On the north side of the castle was, in ancient times, an exten-
sive and well wooded park, into which there was an entr^ce from
the castle by the east postern, and in which, as we are info^me^^
were *' arbours, pleasant walks, and trees planted for profit and
ddight *" This park has been long divided into several rich
and fertile farms, the rents of which are, in compliance with the
will of Sir Robert Hitcham, applied to the support of the alms-
houses founded by him, and the surplus to other chaiitable n^es.
The origin of this castle is lost in obscurity. It is conjectured
to have been first built in the time of the heptarchy, by some of
the first Saxon kings of the East Angles, and is generally as-
cribed to Redwald, who began his reign in 593; but upon no
better ground^ than that Rendlesham, where this prince is said
to
* Evelyn* in his Discourse on Foreft-trees, observes, that tlie county of
Suffolk, and die fwrish of Framlingham in particular, was famous for pro-
ducing the tallest and largest oak-trees, perhaps in the world ; and Miller, in
hu Dictionary, informs us that the oak, which afforded the beams of the
Boyal Sovereign, grew at Framlingham. Its diameter was four feet nin^
isehes^ and it yielded foai besmi^ each forty four feet in length.
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%>%Kfe vended^ bas fen<nred this castle id all the ehanget of its
fropnctofs. Hitlier his onfortDDate succesaor^ St Edmond the
King and martyr, fled, in 870, from the iuvading Danes, and wat
besieged by them. Being hard pressed, and having no hopes of
saccoor, he endeavonred to escape, bat was overtaken in his
flighty and put to death by his enemies ; on which Framlingbam,
with the rest of his kingdom, fell into the hands of the conquerors.
Abont fifty years afterwards it was recovered by the Saxons, and
in their ponession it remained till the total subjection of England
by Caaate. After the Norman conquest, this caittle was con«
sidered of so arach importance, that it was retained by the first
two monarchs ; hot was granted by Henry I. to Roger Bigod»
to be held of the king m capite. His grandson Hugh, was by
King St^hen, created Earl of Norfolk, because he attested that
Henry had on his death-bed, declared his nephew Stephen his
sttccessor, in preference to his daughter Maud. By tbiis nobleman
Framlingham Castle was either rebuilt, or much repaired, having
been dismantled in 1176, by order of Henry II. because the earl
had &TOttred the pretensions of his rebellious son. The king^
nevertheless, restored his possessions on condition, that on the
frilore of heirs to the family of Bigod, they should revert to the
Crown: a cirenmstance which actually took place in the third
year of Edward IL when that family became extinct. The king,
upon this, appointed John de Botetourt, governor of Framlingham
Cssde ; bot be, having been a confederate of the Earl of War-
wick, in the destruction of Piers de Gaveston, the favourite of
Edward, was displaced by the latter, who now conferred all the
possessions lately belonging to the Bigods, on his half brother
Thomas de Brotherton, whom he at the same time created Earl of
Norfolk, and Marshal of England. By him this castle was re*
paired, as i^ppears from his arms set up in various parts of the
building; and he procured the king's licence for a fiur at Fram*
lingham, and a charter of free-warren for all his demesne lands at
this place. He died in the 12th of Edward III. and in the same
year hia aoD* a ninor, fcUowod him .to the grave, leaving.his
04 two
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twe sisters his co-heirs. Alice^ the younger, married Edward
de Montacute^ and to Joan their only daughter and heir, the
manor and castle of Framlingham descended', 36 Edward III. on
the decease of Mary, the second wife of Thomas de Brotherton,
who enjoyed them for her life. Joan de Montacute gave her hand
to William de Ufibrd, afterwards Earl of Suffolk, who, surviving
her, continued to hold this estate during his life, as tenant hy
the courtesy of England, ; and on his death it descended to Mar-
garet, the other daughter of Thomas de Brotherton. This lady's
first husband was John Lord Segrave, after whose decease she
was married to Sir Walter Manny. By Lord Segrave she had
only one daughter, who became the wife of John Lord Mow-
bray ; and their son Thomas was, on the death of his matemai
grand-mother, the heir to all her possessions, and Framlingham
among the rest. This Tliomas Mowbray was created by King
Richard IL earl of Nottingham, and earl marshal, and was the
{principal instrument, by whose means that monarch got rid of his
iincle, the duke of Gloucester, and the earl of ArundeL For
these acceptable services he was advanced to the dignity of Dnke
of Norfolk, but Richard, in rewarding villainy, little thought that
he was paving the way to his own ruin. It was this same Duke
of Norfolk, who, by his quarrel with the Duke of Hereford, oc-
casioned the exile of both, and thus instigated that nobleman to
take those measures which ended in the deposition and death of
Richard, and his own exaltation to the throne, by the name of
Henry IV, Soon after this event, his rival, the Duke of Norfolk,
died at Venice. To his widow Elizabeth, sister and co-heir of
/Thomas Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, this castle and manor were
4iss]gned as part of her dowry; but being liable to the incursions
of enemies on account of tlieir vicinity to the sea, Henry IV. gave
lier in exchange for them an equivalent in the counties of Derby^
Buckingham, and Leicester. They were next granted to Sir
Thomas Erpingham *, but it was not long before Henry re-
stored them to Thomas Mowbray, eldest sou and heir of the lat^
Dtfkp
• See Btautie^ Vol. XL Karfo0c,p,169,9S9.
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MVTFOXJL 397
IMketf K«rfolk^ who wai reeeifed into the kiog't favour, and
kul Btmed bia niece. Thia Dobleman, who never aaaumed ihi$
ftocal \iUe, but afcyled himaelf Earl Marshal, Earl of Nottiagfaam,
Lord of Mowbray, Segmve, and Gower, regardless alike of tha
ties of gralitode and relatioDshif», joined Percy, Earl of Norih-
ambokod, and Scnwp, Arckblshop of York, in tlieir rebelliooa
dengna against thdur sovereign ; bat falling with that prelate intQ
the king's hands, they were both beheaded at York. For thia
ofience the earl's real and personal estates became forfeited to tha
crown. The king thai granted the castle and manor of Fram*
linghsM to the Prince, of Wales (afterwards Henry V^ who kept
Ilia first court there in the sixth year of his father's reiga ; hot
Henry, who naed his utmost endeavours to reconcile his disaf-
fected nobility by obligations of gratitude, in his fourteenth year,
gruiled all the poesessions of the late earl, to John Mowbray, hia
brother and heir, who assumed the same titles as his predeces«
sor, and was in 3 Henry YI. restored to the Dukedom of Nor*
klL The son of this duke dying without issue male, all hia
kmoais became extinct, bnt his possessions descended to Aanc^
bis only daog^hter and heir. This lady being eonaidered a suita*
ble match for Richard, Duke of York, second S09 of King Ed*
fpaid IV. vras married at the age of six years, to that prineet
who was Tery little older than herself, and on whojsi his fisher
confeired the additional titles of Duke of Norfolk, Earl of Wafy
ren, Surry, and Kot^gham, and Earl Masrshal of England. At
the same time this castle and manor were veated by Act of Par*
hament, in trosteea for the benefit of tiie duchess and her heira*
The tragical end of this yoai^ prince, and of his brother Kinf
Edward V. is well known ; and as the lady also died in her ten«i
ia ye^n, the gf^^ possessions to which she was heir, devdbred
to the Lords Hovrard and Berkley, who were descended from two
daoghteiB oi Thomas Mowbray, first Duke of Norfolk of that
juune. John Ixyrd Howard, as next cousin in blood, and one of
the heirw of the late duchess, was invested by Richard III. with
the title oi Dake of Norfolk^ and Earl Matabal, and also ap*
pointed
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pointed Lord Admiral of England, Ireland, and Aqaitaine, ibr
life. In the division of the great inheritance of the Mowhrays,
the catitle and lordghip of Framlingham, formed part of the share
allotted to this nobleman, who adhering fiiithfuUy to Richard, fell
with him in the batUe of Boswortfa, where he commanded the Tan
of the royal army ^, For this attachment of the house of Norfolk
to their soyereign, the Earl of Richmond, on obtaining possession
of the throne, caused the late duke and his son, the Earl of Sar-
ly, to be attainted, and then granted his estate at Framlingham,
and other places, to John Vere, Earl of Oxford. In the fourth
year of his reign, however, Henry VII. restored the Earl of
Surry to that title, and to the estates which had belonged to his
&ther. As a reward for the fidelity, conduct, and valour, displayed
by this nobleman, in the execution of various important com-
missions with which he was intrusted, during that and the fol-
lowing reign, and in particular, his signal victory over the Scotch
at Flodden Field, Henry VIII. created him Duke of Norfolk, and
eonferred on him other distinctions. He died full of years and
honours, at the Castle of Framlingham, in the sixteenth year of
that king^s reign, and, among other bequests, gave by his will to his
von and heit apparent, one suit of hangingtf of the story of Her-
cules, made for the great chamber of this castle. By the at-
tainder of his son Thomas, Dnke of Norfolk, (whose monument in
Framlingham church has been described in a preceding page) a
few days before the decease of Henry VIII. this castle and ma-
nor were again forfeited to the crown, in which they remained
during the reign of Edward VI. On the death of that prince,
his sister Mary, who was then at Kenninghall, in Norfolk, having
asserted her claim to the throne, in opposition to the powerful
-partisans of Lady Jane Grey, repaired for the greater security
of
* It was opon this, duke'a gate tl)at, the night before he' went to join tht
' kiog't army, were affixed the following weli-knowi| lines :
Jack of Korfo^, 'be not ^00 bold,
! iFoT Dickon tby master is bought and sol^*
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SUFFOLK. 299
^f her penon, to ike Caatle of Framlingfaam ^, where she resided
till her resiovsl to London, to take possession of the crovn. Ths
Duke of Norfolk, who so narrowly escaped the axe of the exe-
eationer hy the opportune death of Henry VIII. had ever sinoo
heen kept a prisoner in the Tower ; but on Mary's accession, was
released from his confinement, and restored to his honours and
possessions. These he did not long enjoy, dying at Framling-
ham, in 1554. His successor was Thomas, eldest son of Henry,
Earl of Surry, who had been brought to the block by Henry
Till, but was restored in blood, by Act of Parliament, in the first
year of the reign of Queen Mary. This duke being tried by his
peers, and convicted of treasonable designs against Queen Eliza-
beth, was beheaded in 1572, and this castle and manor once mora
leverted, with his other estates, to the crown. James I. immedt*
Ittely after his accession, granted them with other demesnes, to
Thomas Lord Howard, Baron of Walden, eldest son of the late
duke, by his second wife Margaret, sole daught^ and heir of Lord
Audleyi and to his uncle. Lord IJenry Howard. The latter soon
sfterwaids resigned his moiety of these estates to his nephew,
who bad in tbs meai| time been created Earl of Sufiblk, and
whose son Th^phiJns ii| 1635, spld Frandiugham, with all his rights
in the hundred of Loes, to Sir Robert Hitoham, for 14,0001. " The
title to the estate,'' obserre the nuthors of Magna Britannia f*
was so peiplexed, that had he not had a strong brain and power-
fnl purse, he could never have cleared it; of which be was so
sensible, that in thankfulness to God for his wonderful success^
he
* TrtditioD bas perpetoated the roenory of Mary's rfsidence at this place,
bj tatknj stories, wiihout doubt, the ioveotion of sealoos Prbtestants, to whom
this princess afterwarda proved so cruel a scourge. Amoog others, it wa4
asserted and believed by many, that she was delivered in this castle of a
monster, which, in a pafoyysm of horror she instantly destroyed, and no^
many years since, the stone on which she is said to have dusiied it, continue^
to be pointed oat A small part of the cattle still remaining is called Quee^
Maiysrooai, and a laa«» in which she probably aaed to walk, yet retains th^
appeUatiOB of Bloody Qaien MaryU Lane.
i Vol V. p. SOS,
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he tetded it ibr piom nam eta Vernhnke UiU in GmM^/'
This he did hy irill, dated Avgnt 8, 1636, by whMi he dem«d
the eastle maiKNr and lordship of FraiBliiigham^ together with tbe
nanor of Saxted, being then of the yeariy Taloe of 10001. to tiM
masters and feilovB; 1001. to be expended for the heneil of tbe
CloUege ; and the remainder to be appropriated for tiie enwIaBenk
ef the poor of the parishee of Framlingham, Dunham, and Le»
vington, in this eovnty, and of Coggeshall, in Essex. He fiur*
Uier direeted '* all the castle, saving the stone bnilding, to he
pnlled down/' and the materials to be employed in the ereelioB
ef the houses for Ihe charitable institations that have ahready been
described. Seven days after he had executed this will. Sir Ro»
bert died, but his heir at law contrived to keep the College ont
of the possession of the manor, lands, and hundred, for many
years, till, in 1653, an ordinance was published by order of
Cromwell, then Lord Protector, for settling and confirming them
agreeably to the intention of Uie testator.
WooDBRiDGE is situated in a long narrow tract nearly sor*
rounded by the hundreds of CarUbrd and Wilfoid, on the east
side of a sandy hill, commanding a pleasant view down the river
D^n, which ftJls into ihe sea at the distance of about teh miles.
Towards its mouth it takes the name of Woodbridge Haven, and
is navigable up to the town, which carries on a considerable traf*
fie with London, Hull, Newcastle, and the Continent ; and has
several docks for buildittg vessels, with commodious wharfs and
^uays. Some idea may be formed of the importanpe of the com-
merce of this place, when it is known that the quantity of flour,
com, and malt, carried coastwise firom the port of Woodbridge to
London alone in the year 1810, was as follows : 11,354 quarters
of wheat; 13,477 of barley; 9634 of mah; 4288 of beans;
2377 of oats ; 1133 of pease ; 233 of rye ; and 9220 sacks of
dour. The population amounting in 1801 to 3020, had increased
in 1811 to 3674* The market is held on Wednesday ; and ther^
^e two annual fiurs, on the 6th of April, and on the 2d of Oe*
tober.
4 Thit
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"■r,t
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Thift town ui Mdd to hmte derived tto name firom a wooden
.i^i^t buiVi ov€*r a^ hollow na^ W form a commitiiicatioii between
%itt pariui sefiarated by the road wliich leads from Woodbrtdge*
11^ i1 ^Vii I towMtis IpsiiiicJi ; Mid y^e are told that at the fool
wHkm \uid, alKmt m stone's throw from the spot where this bridga
. to have stood, ihi^re is a houses which still retains tho
. ol Dry Bridg^e.''^ The reader may bestow what credit
km ^Waata an ifais etytoolfi^y, when he is informed thai in ancient
timea tbii tnwn was written Oddehntife, or, as in Domeaday-booir,
Udebrfgt^ from whicli i\M present dtnomiHatioB is eridently de-
fftad*
Tbe priitei pal fitreeli» of Woodbridgf^ one of which is near a
wSa bi length, though narrnw, contain many good booses, and
mm tolerably welt puved. The uiarket-plaoe is clean and weH
baih ; and in the middle of it is an ancient shire hall, in which
th* qtotrtar^^eBaiOfis for the Liberty of St. Etheldred are held.
The CkmKh, a f^pacious aiid noble titnietore, is conjectared to
hav« hmm built in th«^ reign of Edward III. by John Lord Se*
fftre, and hia wife Margaret de Brotherton, whose anna are yet
to be aern oTer the door of the Kteepli. It consists of a naTe and
two aialca, the roofs of which arc supported by ten beautiful Go*
Ibic pillars, and imis^ dtimy ones. The exterior watlsare of blaak
Sinla» Adioiamg U\ ihe cbaticel oit the north side is a private
chapel erected by IVbomaii Scckford, Esq. Master of Requesta
OL the mgu of Queen Elimljcth ; Ihe east window of which ia
adfloed with a fiuted piiaisier. The north portico is decorated in.
Ceoit with the rrpresent^itioii; in rr-lievo, of Michael, the arch-
a^gdf an CO uo tiering I be Dragon. In the chnrch were formerly
Ihi ajtaiu ni St. Anne and St. Saviour, and the chapel of St.
KieiMylaa in the iiortb aiiite; mid either in the walls of the church.
Of ia tha clntrch-yiird, ntuod a celebrate image of our Lady, to
wikim this edifice was dedicated. Ihe large quadrangular tower,
1^ Ibrt high, fomia a conspicuous oFiject at sea : it is built of
tbt aiin# materials as the cliureh ^ and toward the top the ilint
and
. - • Suffolk rr#«aer. U eJit. p. 106.
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302 SOFFOUL
and ftlone are beautifiiUy inlemixed in various derioea. The
comers are adorned ii»ith finiab^ aumiounted with weathercocks ;
and on the haUiements between them are the badges of the four
E?angelist8. This steeple, with the north portico, was bnilt, or
perhaps more correctly speaking, repaired about the middle of the
fifteenth century, as appears from numerous legacies bequeathed
about that time by various persons. Upon a stone inserted in
the wall of the north side, at about the height of 24 feet, is a
mutilated inscription, upon which the name of Albrede, one of
these benefoctors, may easily be discerned.
The monumental inscription of this John Albrede, in the church,
was, with some others, de&ced by Dowsing in' 1643 or 1644 :
but part of it yet remains. This twUUweaner, as he is there
called, not only left twenty marks towards building the steeple,
Jbut was at the charge, according to the piety of the age in which
he lived, of carving, gilding, and paintbg the rood-loft over the
partition between the body of the church and the choir, in which
were the pictures of the cross and cmcifiic, the Virgin Mary, and
several archangels, saints^ and martyrs, figured, as we are told,
to the life.
On the south side of the church formerly stood a priory of
Augustines, founded by Sir Hugh Rous, or Rnfiis> but at what
time we are not informed. The church belonging to t^is foun-
dation appears to have joined the south-east end of the chancel of
the parochial church, and probably extended to what is now called
the Abbey. Within it were interred many individuals of thie
equestrian families of Rous, or Rufus, the founder, Breos, or
Brews, and Weyland. The possessions of this priory at the
lyisaolution were valued at 501. 3s. 5|d. per annum; besides
which it was seised as of fee, of the churches of Woodbridge,
Brandeston, and St Gregory, in Ipswich, with a portion of
tithes in Stradbrook and Wingfield ; and the small priory of A^
neaboume in the hundred of Colneis, was united to it. The site
of it, together with the advowson of the church and other possea-
aions, was granted 20 Henry YIII. to John Wingfield, and Do-
rothy
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mhy his wife, in speeial tale nude ; and on hm death, withoot
iaane, to Thomas Seckford, Esq. in fee. In tiiat iunily it continued
till 1673, when it passed hy the will of Mrs. Dorothy Seckford^
into the fiunily of the Norths of Laxford, a younger branch of the
noble family of that name, from whom it devolved in 1707 to the
family of Carthew. After tlie decease of the Rev. Thomas Car-
thew in 1791, the priory estate was divided and sold : at which
time the capital mansion called the Abbey or Priory, was pur*
ehased hy Francis Brooke, Esq. of U£ford : but the representa-
tive of the family of Carthew still has a residence here.
In a vault of the chapel ftt tiie north end of the chancel is the
teiily vault of the Seckfords. Hero is interred Thomas Seek-
ford, Esq. an ancient henefiu^r of this town, by whom this
chapel was erected* In the centre of it stands an altar-monu-
■ient» consisting of a large grey marble table, supported by eight
ttttic pillars with arches. It has no inscription; but several
brasses which appear to have been inlaid on the under side, were
piobaMy taken away by the window-breaking visitor Dowsmg^
among other depcedations of the kind committed by him in this
diurch in 1643.
Thomas Seckford, Esq. one of the Masters of the Court of
Bequests, and Surveyor of the Court of Wards and liveries in
the reign of Queen Elizabeth, was the second son of Thomas
Seckford, of Seckford Hall in this county, by Margaret, dangh*
ter of Sir John Wingfield, of Letheringham. He was not less
distinguished in the profession of the law, to which he was bred^
than in the other polite accomplishments of the age in which he
Ijved ; and to bis patronage to his servant Christopher Saxton,
the public was indebted for the first set of county maps, which
were aigraved by his encouragement, and at his expence. In the
29th year of Elizabeth he obtained the queen's letters patent for
founding and endowing these alms-houses ; and drew up himsdf
the ordinance for the government of his charity, which have been
considered so perfect, that the sncoessive governors siaoe his de-
•sase have sddom thought fit to deviate from the genend plan.
He
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He also bvilt the fiesMons-boittie at Woodbiidge» ginag the iqpfCr
part of it for the use of the county for sver, without reserving any
rent Mr. Seckford repreaeAted the bonragfa of Ipswich in three
parliaments. He married Eltzab^h, daughter of Thomas Har^
bwe, and widow of Sir Martin Bowes, lord-mayor of London,
and died without issue in 1588^ aged 72.
Seekford's Alms^umge, founded by this gentleman in 1587
for thirteen poor men and three women, was endowed by him with
an estate in Clerkenwell, London, then let for 1121. Ida. 4d« but
leased in 1767 for sixty years at 563L per annum, clear of all
charges. What the revenues may amount to at the expiration of
the present leases, it is impossible to conjecture; but as mora
than 20,0001. has been recently expended upon this estate, it may
reasonably be supposed that a considerable advance will then take
place. The governors of this alms-house are the Master of the
RoUs, and the Chief Justice of the Common Pleas for the time
being. By the regulations and ordinances made after the exeeu*
tioQ of the last lease by Sir Thomas Sewell and Sir Eardley Wi^
mo|, the then governors, the annual allowances to the residaits in
the alms-house were increased to the sum of 271. to the principal,
and 201. to each of the other twelve poor men, besides a suit of
cbthes, a bat, three shirts, two pair of shoes and stodLings, and
a chakh^n and a half of coals. The three poor women appointed
aa nurses for the men when they happen to require attendance,
reside in a house built in 1748 dose to that of the men, and re*
ceive 121. per annum, and a proportionate supply of clothing. The
same men wear a silver badge with the Seckford arms, and are re-
quired to attend divine service at the parish church on Sundays,
Wednesdays, Pridaya, and holidays in general. The same ordi-
nances direct lOL a year to he paid to the minister of Woodbridge
for instructing the alms-people, and visiting them when sick ; and
five pounds to each of the two churchwardens for receiving tha
rents, superintending the distribution of the money, and enfordng-
the oiders of the establishment ; and 10L to the poor of Clerken*
well. These various paymenta amount to 3331. ; the remaining
230L
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23M. 18 expended m clothing, firing, mediofti attendance, and
repain; and the sarplu, if any, digtribnted among sach poor of
Woodbridge as receive no relief from that, or any other pariah.
Woodbridge has a Free Grammar School for ten boys, sons of
the meaner aort of the iilhabitaats of that -town, wbo are to be
instrocted in Latin and. Greek, and fitted for the Uni?eruty« For
all the children above that nmnber who are a^nt to this school,
the master cannot demand moie than twenty shillings per annnm.
He 18 elected by tbe chief inhabitants of the parish, and has a good
house, wiih a laige room for a school, and conveniences for board-
ers. He is also eatitled to the revenues of lands and premises
amouatiiig in 1796 to near 401. a year.
The town contains a Quaker's Meeting-house, another for In«
dq^endenfts, three public Fire-offices, and two Banks ; and about
a mile from it on a hill contiguous to the Ipswich road, are bar-
racks capable of accommodating 6 or 7000 men.
In 1666 Woodbridge was visited by the plague, which carried
^the minister, his wife, and chiid> and upwards of ttiree hun-
dred of the inhabitants.
The other places worthy of notice in this hundred are :
Campsey Ash, or Ash by Campseff, which was reoMirkable
for a nannery of the order of St Clare, founded by the direction of
Theobald de Valoines, who gave bis estate at this ptace to his two
sisters, Joan and Agues, for the purpose. His intention being
sanctioned by King John, waa accordingly put in execution, and
the revenues of this pious establishment were considerably in-
ereased by subsequent benefactors. This nunnery was seated in
a fertile and pleasant valley, on the east aide of the river Debea,
and had a large lake on the iiorth. Ma.ud de Lancaster, widow
•f William de Burgh, Earl of ITlster, who aA^rwards married
Ralph de Ufibrd, chief justice of Ireland, obtained a licence fron»
King Edward III. to found a chauntry of fk^e cbaplains, secubr
priests, to pray and sing mass in the church of this nunnery for
the souls of her two husbands, fw her own, and for that of Eliza-
beth, the first wife of William de Burgh. This chauntry re-
VOL.XIV. X maiued
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aM ftffFFOUk
mibinod hert for aomt ywfu, and wm Ihin NiiMNrod !• thii amor
of Roke Hall, ia BmMyw^ the MTfuaaft^d site of wtd^ Wiw
aftenrvds gtvea Ip ih^ prioroi* tad auaa of St Glaroi wheft^tke
cbanatry wan eoavorted iolo a aaaaeiy. At tha WmolMkm, the
posaeaaiona of tl^ia honae w«f8 yalaed at IBM. Ik; &L far aaaia^
aad grattlad ta Sir WiUiam WiUoofhby, fraai nhoM th^ d**
aoeaded th^agh variova hand^ with the vcai of hia ealaie, to
fs^wk Whitbread, Eaq. of Leadhan.
Aik Hcmte in Campaey,. ia a good maatioi^ and waa bu3l by
John GloTer, who waa in the aenrice of ThoauM Hdwaid» Duke of
Norfolk ; bat one of hia aneeeaaon ranoviag to Rraateadaa, aoM
it to the Shephards^ whose deaceadanl^ Joha Shqifaaid^ Eaq. aov
reaidea here.
Earl Soham deri?ea ita name from the eiroaawtaaaa oi ita
having belonged to the Earla of Norfolk. Ia 20 Edward L Boger
Bigod had a grant of a market aa well aa a foir heroi wfatcb waa
confirmed to ThonuM Je Brothartoa ia the 7th Edward II. The
market haa long been diaoaed; but there ia atiU a yearly fidr at
this place on the 4th of Angoat
Soham lodge ia aa old irregalar brick building, aniraunded with
a bridL waU and large moat, and ataading within a paik, to which
the nianor of the Tillage beUmga. It waa formerly the aealof the
family of Corpwallis ; but one of them left it by will to the Cor-
deroy's; since which time it haa passed tfaroagh the handa of
Tarioos proprietors, and now bdonga to John Ayten, Esq. of
Hisaenden AU>ey, in Bnckinghamahire.
Easton waa formerly the lordahip of an ancient family in Ket»
tleburgb, suraamed Charleai and afterwards heoame the property
of the Wingfielda of Letheriogham. Anthony Wtngfield, who
waa created a baronet ia 1627, built the Hall here, aad made it
his seat ; and one of his successors. Sir Henry, sold it, with the
rest of the family estate in the neighborhood, to William Lord of
Zuileatein, created by King William IIL Earl of Doehford, to
whose descendant, the present earl, it now belonga. The house
ia a handaome brick buildiag.
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MVW90VL dVT*
Al LvramyciHAM «m fermerly a litHe priory of BladL C^-
mom, fbvbded by Sir Jotai BovOe, :b«t<«t irhiit thao^o tre notia- '
ibiaed. It #» a coU to Bt Peter's ia ItNnrieh, wAtrdiaed al tka
dkoblalioaitdM. IBs. M. aad gtaated 7 Edward VI. to M ta. BU-
zAeHk NaaatoB. EKr EoWt Naonloa^ arho, ia the reiga of Jamee h
apaaoeeretary ofetale, pri?y oolaiieHor^ and maeter of the Coart
of Waide and* lirefieei eoaverted the priory iato a good maa-
siefl^ to whMi he reaiovad his eeat from Aiderton^ in the hundred
of Wilford ; and here his suocesson resided for many generations.
On tlie dteth of the*widow of the hst^of theai, soon after 1700,
the eUale defolTed to William Leaiaa, Esq. who was obliged to
wmiatain bis rigbl by a tedioas and expensive law^soit, against'
elaiauarts wlio preteadsd descent from some of the Naanl^ &--
mify liMt bed eiaigrated to Normandy about eighty years befiHre.
Tbe bandiMM old mansion was puHed down about 1770; slid-
the ftie odUeefeioii of' portraits which tt oontaiaed are supposed to*
bein the poasMtlon of the iMMn family.
At Letheringham was also a seat of tie once flourishing fhmlly
of WingM^ of wUdr Sir Anthony/ who lived ia the reigns of
Henry VIII; and Edwaid'Vii was eajptain of the gaufd/afid tiee-'
ohamberfaaatothefomer, fcaigbt of tlm garter, and a aseinber of
hk prity-eouiieiL Hw was also appointed by that monarch to-
sssist the executors of his will, for which he bequeathed him a*
legaey of'30CI. His desoendaat of the same name was created a
bmoaetittlttir.
In the ehaacel of the parish chaircb^ which Ibrmerly belonged
to the priory, were some elegant monuments for the Boviles^ the
WingMds, and Naantonti; those of the latter are in general*
without inscriptiens: aad in the windows were many portraits and
matches; bnt the clmrcb was sufiered to go to ruin; and the
monuments, among which was a splendid one for the iunous Sir*
Sabert Naunton and his lady, and another fox Sir Anthony
Wingftdd, wliose epitaph was thought of consequence in the con«'
test for the office of great chamberlain of Bngtaad, were defoced
and dentroyed. " Mere neglect and exposure to the weather,'*
X2 says
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306 BVFFOLK.
■ays Mr. Gongb/ ** could not baro redhio^ tlieaii to thot state
of complete desob^n in wbioh they an^etfed in 1780. In 1766».'
and perhaps later, they were in a good, thongh not in so ^ean
a^conditiaii as they desenred. perhaps/' adds the same g^tle*
maaj '' it was lor the inteiEesi ol some of the parties who lately
disputed the estate^ to destroy every, record preserved in this
phce : but how the dilapidation of this sacred edifice came to be
permitted by the higher ecclesiastical powen> is a qaeation not
easily resolved."
Rendlesham, or RendiWiam, that is, according to Bede,*
the hoase of Rendiliis, is a very ancieirt toirn, asi^ipears by.
Redwald, king of the £ast- Angles, having kept his court here.
Camden says, ** He was tha first of all that people that waa bap-
ttsed^ and reeeived Christianity; but afterwards being sedooed by
his wife, he had in the self-same church one altar for the religioa
of Christ, and another little altar fior the sacrifices of.Devib.
8udhelra also, king of the East-Angles, was afterwards baptised
in this place by Cedda,'' bishop of York and Litchfield.
An ancient silver crown was fonnd here in the beginning of the
last century, weighing about sixty ounces* which is supposed- to
have belonged to some of the East^nglian kings. This eurions
piece was unfortunately diffused of for old silver, and melted
down.
From the charter-rolls, it appears that Edward I. granted to
Hugh Pitz-Otho the privileges of a market and fair, Hugh do
Naunton, 2 Edwsrd II. had a grant of firoe-warren in Rendk-
sham. Robert de Fiimeux was a great land-owner there 7 Ed-
ward IL The prioress and oonvent of Campes, or Campsey, had
lauds there 2 Edward II. which were exchanged for other lands
vrith the rector of Ashe. Richard de RendWsham had lands there
36 Edward III. .
Rendlesham Hautte, supposed to stand on the site of the palace
of Rendilos, became the property of the Spencers in the reign of
Edward VI. and continued in that family till it was vested in
. . Jame^
* Caimfen. U.'lST.
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8VFFOLK. 300
l&ites, tbe JiAh ^uke of HmnUtolk by tiii mstrriligiB wttb Elixa-
WUi, ibii^Ur and belrees of Edwiurd Spencer. The duchess
rfi'rieiLhere nhtr the death of her hitibftiid. At her decease it
dmmAid to her eMe^ ^on. Laid Arehibald, the present Duke of
' HnuItoB, n ho sold tt, wttU lire esMe^ to Sir Geort^e Womb-
vdligfrom vhom it was pureha5iedibr5l«400lbby P. J. Tbdifssoi,
irterwafds creat4Ml Lord Eei^dlefthani^ 'Mher' to the present no*
,iikpo«»es6orof tUe Ulle fiiid estate.
- ThiftfenTierly was a hunt] so me^ roomy, commodious mansion,
jM by the iiaproTemeults elfected in the house and groonds,
11 mifcipence of the ule^ant and. refined taste of the bte pro-
jia^r* H i^ become a prtncciy rdsidence, surpassed by few in the
kuigdeiii; wkilli itsBpleddid hospitalities have been extended not
oMy tir tn&sy of .il|0 imt nobiUty, but also lo several branches of
tli Royal fioDnily who have honored this place with their presence.
The atylft <^ wreliiteetiire ^ the hooao i« an ImitatioB of tha
THE HUNDRED OF THREDUNG.
Thki httndFed is boanded on the nortb, by that of Hartismere ;
OfttWs west and sovtll, by Bosmertf ftdd Claydon ; and on the east,
bytiQien. It contains only fire parishes, Ashfieid, with its ham-
Ha^Tboip; Debenfaaia; Ffaoisden; Pettaug^h, and WinstDn.
JhtB^KHAM * the o|dy place worthy of notice in this hundred,
isa unerket-towtt, seated 9R the side of a hill, near the source 6f
the rirer Debea^ from whioh it derives its name. It contains 390
boiaes, and 1215 tiAbahitsnts; and has a small market on Fri-
dajHi, and A &ur on the 24th of June.
This Wwn, which safTered severely by fire in 1744, is in ge-
oefil meanly built, bat the church is a handsome edifice. It con-
tains some ancieat monuments, the inscriptions of which are
mssdy so mach defoced as to bo illegible. The market-house al-
to i* a good stracture. Here is likewise a free school, for which
X3 the
* In the Europ. l^Iag- VoJ. LL p. 168, is a view, and brief accoant of
Rendieflham Hou%e*
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■the town IB indebted to Sir Bobert HitdMUB, vho diraoled ty Iu0
trill, that twenty poor cUUren of this phee ■honU be imtraeleA
at his school at Framlinghsm. This being fiMud impossible, am
.ordinance was obtained from OliTor Oromwell for tiie fennding of
a school, and the maintenance of a anster at Debenham, oot of
the prodace of Sir Boberf s estate; and a salary of M. per an-
nam was assigned for that pnrpose.
The manor, impropriation, and advowson, of the vicaiage, be*
, longed to the priory of Bvtley, and were^ in ISiSt, gnrnled by
Henry VUI. to Francis Fraalingham. They derolYed aboat
1600, to the Gandys, who resided at Crows Hall in this pariA.
Sir Charles Gaady, of Crows Hall, was created a baronet in 10n.
They are now the property of James Bridges, of Bealings, Ea^
to whom also bdong the eontigaoos manors of Scotaetfs and
BloodhalL
Here are likewise two oAer manors, UWeralon Hall and Sack-
ry\% which the corporation of Ipswich hold by the will of Henry
Tooley, who died in 1552, for chsritable i
THE HUNDBED OF BOXNE.
The hnndred of Home hordns to the sonlii, on the hundreds
of Plomesgate and Lees; on the west, it is bonnded by Loes and
Hsrtismere; on the north, by the river Waveney, which separatea
it from Norfolk ; and on the east, by Wangford and BIsrthing.
BnuNDisH was formerly of considerable note for a chantry^
foandpd by Sir John Ptiyshall, rector of Caston, one of the es*
eentors of Robert do Uffiird, Earl of Saffi>lk, in 7 Richard II.
for six chaplains to pray for the seal of that nobleman, and alt his
benefactors. At the dissolntion it was of the yearly valoe of
131. Os. 7id. and was granted in 1546, to Richard Fdmerston,
patroA,
It 18 worthy of remark, that all the hnd in this parish is free-
hold.
At
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mrgfouL 3ir
AlCUftLSMV itohmitry mm iniided abott the year 1330^
bj Jdbtt FrainKBgliMn, NNBtar of Kdaak, for tliree chaplaina to
pray for the soul of Alice, the first wife of Thomas de Brother*
too, fiati of Noifelk. It UBS granted, 36 Henry Vlll. to WiU
U^m Honng.
DsMHiiWTOH was theieadence of the family of the PheKps,
ef iriiMi Sir John Pkelip mnred with fgreat distinctioil under
Henry V. In FhuRe. His tneceasor,. Sir William, acquired the
title of Lsid Bavddph, by his marriage with Joan, daughter of
tlmt nobleman. .In the 6th ywr of Henry VI. he founded a
dHmntry, Ibr two prieals to eelebrate divBie senrioe erery day at
therghar of fit Mmgaiet, in the chocch of this place, fer the
weltee of himself and hk wife dafing their lives, and ioir their
souls after their decease. By his will he bequeathed his body to
be bttned with those of lus ancestors before tbe aboTe-meationed
altar,and directed a thousand masses to be said ibr liis son], by the
Sifwal orders of friars in Norfolk and fiuflblk, as soon as possible
after his death, allowag them four-pence §w each mass. He alio
gaire to thb ehuroh, aifter the decease of has wife, a certain mass
book sailed a gradual, a silver censer, and a legend; but by a
4foAcil ioedersd his body to be intenred in the drorch-yard. He
left only one dangliter, who being married to John Viscoant
Beanmonty carried the estates of the Bardolphs into that family.
The Umll, with several esUtes, the l<Nrdship of the manor, and
the advowson ci the rectory, have long been in the recently enno-
bled imnily of Rous, of which Lekad observes : " All Ihe Rouses
that be inSnfiblk, come, as for as I can leant, out of the house of
Rous of Dennington. Divers of the Rouses of this eldest house^
tie in Dennington chnrch under flat stones. Anthony Rons,
now heir of Dennington Hall, hath much enlarged bis posses-
sions.*
Besides the chauntry founded by Lord Bardolph, valued at the
dissolution at 361. 4s. 7d. there was another in the church of
Dennington, belonging to the altar of St Mary, of the annual
2X4 value
« LeUnd*! Hen. VI. p. 10.
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31^ ftOTFOUL
valtteof 9L Ob. 7W: bofh of tbem were grurted U fiichitfi Fid*
merBtoii. In this church are monumeiits for several of the Wmg-
fields.
Frbsinofield deserves notice as the place where that escel-
lent prelate Dr. William Sancroft, Archbishop of Canterbury,
drew his first and last breath.* At his seat in this parish he re-
sided after he had sacrificed to oonacientioos scroples the high
dignity which he enjoyed, and was interred in the ehorch-yard
under a handsome monument. He has peipetoated his name ia
this his native parish, by varioos bene&etions. He settled an
estate, in fee fiurm rents, to the annual value of 62L on the vicar
and his successors for ever, on condition that the latter sheuld
pay lOL a year to the master of a school which his lordship at
the same time founded here, and 61. per annum to the parish-
clerk, for whom and his successors for ever, he also built a con-
venient habitation.
HoxNB gives name to the hundred, but is much more remark-
able on another account. It was to this village, anciently deno-
minated Eglesdune, that King Edmund fled, after his laat unsue-
oeasfid encounter with the Danes in 870, having relinquished all
intention of opposing them any ferther. Tradition relates, that
in the hope of escaping his punuers, he concealed himself under
a bridge near the place, now called Gold Bridge, from the ap*-
pesrance of the gilt spurs which the king happened to wear, and
which proved the means of discovering his retreat. A newly -
married couple retumiug home in the evening, and seeiQg by
tnoon-li^bt the reflection of the spurs in the water, betrayed him
to the Danes. Indignant at their treachery, the king is said to
have pronounced a dreadful curse upon every couple who should
afterwards pass over this bridge in their way to the church to be
married ; and we are told that, at this day, after an interval oS
nearly one thousand years, such is the regard paid to this denun-
ciation, that persons proceeding to the church on such an occa*^
sion^
• For someaccoont q( this preUtCi see Beatities, Vol. VIL 818.
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surroLK. dl3
ma neror ftil to avoid it, eyen if they ^te oUig^ to tako m
^inmtUaiB road.'^
Here- alto .tiie remains of that onfolrtiiiiate monarch were first
ivternsd.' Over his grave was erected a chapel, oomposed, like
thoaacknt chufoh of Greensted in Essex^f of trees sawed down
the middle tiid fixed in the ground, having the interstices filled
with mud or mortar, and a thatched Toof. From this mde stnitf-
1npe„ the bo^ of the reputed saint was removed, about thirty
yeaiB afterward^ to its more splendid receptacle at Bury.
This diapel was, in process of time, converted into a cell or
priory, iahahited -Jby seven mt eight Benedictine monks, governed
by'ai prior, nominated and removable by the prior of Norwich,
and called the cell and chapei of the Messed St. Edmund, king
ted martyr. In 1226 Thomas de Blumville, Bishop of Norwich,
confirmed all revenues to God, and the chapel of St Edmund, at
Hoxne, which at the dissolutwn amounted to about forty pounds
per amrnm.^
The Hall, manor, rectory, and advowson of the vicarage, for-
merly belonged to the bishops of Norwich, who used frequently
to reside here till 1535 ; when they were surrendered conforma-
bly with an act of parliament^ to King Henry VIIL who granted
thear to Sir Robert Southwell. Tha Hail is now the mansion of
Sir Thomas Maynard Hesilrigge, Bart who succeeded to the title
on the death of his nephew. Sir Arthur, in 1805.
Hoxtt^ had a considerable fiiir for cattle, beginning on the Ist
of December; but, owing to the extortions practised by the far-
■wrson the Scotd> drovers, it has been removed since 1780, to
Harleston, in Norfolk.
Laxfield is conjectured to have been formerly a place of
greater note than at present, for in the reign of Edward IV.
John Wingfield obtained a grant for a market here, and the vil-
lage has two annual fairs, on the 12tfa of May, and on the 18th of
October. The church, with its steeple, is a handsome edifice :
towards
' CiUingwtter'i Hist, of Loweitoft, p. 6. t See Beautivi, V. 4t5,
t Bloonfield't Norfolk, VoL U. p. 437.
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ta4
t9im48 hiiUiiig the litttr, wmf legMW mn lift AmXOm
niddle of tiie 15Ui century. A manor, and tlie reetory maiwAum^
•oBoftiievieeragey fben by BebertM«letloiiie.(iriory of Bye,
wcregraaHedaepMtof tfaepewmioMoftimthpnee, 3a Henry
¥UI.toEAnMin4BedingieM: and in llie same year nnoUHTM.
ner liere was granted, aaparceloftliepoflaeaaionief Ltarton Ak>
bey, to Okarlee Brandon, Duke of GMblk.
f%ep«rialiof MBHDHAMieeitnaledeii both ridea of Hm over
Waveney, eomprekending irithin Ha bonnda paitof Ibaltfim ef
Harleaton in Norfolk. In the Sv&b par^ WiUiaa 4e Hoating.
field branded In Stephen'a reign a Claniaie priory, dedieatedto Aa
BloMed Virgin, and anbordinate to Caatle-acre in MerfoJk; ^eh
at the DiaaolaAion waa granted to Chnrlea Brandon, Dake of •Snf*
Mk. 80BM remaina of Ihia priory are aliUatanding; and part of
it haa been eenverled into a fma-honae,
Stbabdrook, a cmiaidoraMo nilage, and wiiieh ieniedy Jmd
a market granted by Henry III. waa the birth-place of Hial ode*
brated aeholar and prelate Robert GroatlMad, Biahop of linooln.*
Stlbham, a araall village in a ineiy wooded eoaaAry, ia ra»
maikaUe for Hie iguU /rftM, eoaunonly oalled Syi$kam 1mmp$,
that are frequently aeen in the low gronnda abont it, to the tar-
ror and deatraetion, not only of travdlen, but alio of the inha*
bitanta, who are often nualed by them.f
WiNGPiELD wte early in the 14th eentwy tlM eotale ef Raeh*
ard de Brewa^ who obtained a grant for a foir here in IWS. It
waa afterwardfl the aeatof a (amily which tookita nameirom tlua
tillage, and flooriahed here for many yeara, till its removal ta
Letheringham and Eaaton, in the hundred of Loea. In tiie reign
of Henry VIII. this fomiiy ia said to have numbered eight or
nine knights, two of whom were invested with the order of the
Garter. By the marriageof Katharine, daughter and heir of Sir
John Wingfield, to Michael de la Pole, Earl of Snflblk, thia manor,
and the extenaive estate attached to it, were carriedinto that noble
family, in which it conttnned for aeveral generationa. While in
their
• See Beaotic^ VoL DC. p. €18. f Ooagh'i Camd. IL tft.
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jnimuu Mi
i lido 9^!g9Mk,f9d Jb (McVMeuwd ittipaikri^ tlwiimoAi Md
.fandb Manfing toH. nit MlUe mtm kttaly^ fiir ateg tiliM^
'^leited mAeftmilgr of tiie«alal]wfc^ on ^be^itinQlioii.rrf ^AUh
il Je^?ed tothfi lieini rf Thmnto Umok, Biiq..0f WentuMltiL
At the south-west eoroc^. foTihe .eluMh-i|ffrii* college imi
«eclei Aoiit the yeiir l8Q8ibgr tiie eteettooiiof Sir A»hB Wiog-
AM„kr a pronoit^ or inaftkit «nd ifine {iricsla. Ift was dedi-
^^tttedtoBt Hary^ St. iohb 'Bsfvfeitft, jiod BL Jtidnm, smi was
t9lMiMXM. »i.^m. ittthe wipi^MttioB, after irUdi ifc ms
.gfinted, ty Kingfidward VI. to the Bishop oC Nortvkh, pnha-
JUy in ssehaiigeiir aoaoe maiwr of v^cb ho had ben depohred.
The weift aide of its qaadmogle Is now a ten house. Sm the
ehinnch bolwgteg «P this ooUeg^^i^as tatared Wiffiamde lai^>le,
jDidDoof fiuflblk, whose jHttrder of the good Hna^phray, Duke of
lahuieestflr, ma ao aigoally ajresged in his own nutinriy Me.
His head was sAnak 4dl in^the gmvide of a. boat^ in Ji^sver
roads, and his body thrown into the sea; but behg cast on shore,
it was brooghty and buried here, in 1450. In the same plaee was
also inteired his son and soooessor, John do la Pole, Duke of Snf-
Uk, whoBiarriedUiaaMh,a|rtOT0f JKiagBdwardlV.
Tlie Church, built of flints and stones of diffiarent colours, ex-
Juhils a lery^mgahr and beautiiU apusarance. In the chadcel,
irfajiohsl^leof arehi<t«htT% arasosie noUoiaonoaMntsof the
. Vtagfiekk and do la Poies, parUcaiarly of Michael de la Pole,
.fcst Earl of Ekiialk.w*o died 12 ttchardIL and his lady; of
his grattda<m, WilHasi^.a bnvre and diatingnishcd cowsnier in
. JPhneo; in Ifco lalgns of Oeniy V. and VL who died in 1 4fi9 ; of
hia jon John, who died 1491, and his lady. ThMo aiel
.aofend kawea te other hianches of this ftarily, whose
adorn the 4Biit» «id the east window.
About a quarter of a mile north-west of the chaidb, are the ce-
■HdaaaftheeaatlobniitbyMishafi de la Pole, irsi earl of Suf-
Idk, wheae anns« with those of Wj8gfidd> cat in stone, remain
9 on
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916 0VFFOUC.
on each tide of the entranee. It «tta4i low^ %ithoi^4m7eartb^
works for ite defeobe. The wmth front, or principal entninee^ is
still intke, ao4 the west side is a farm-hoose. ' It was the pro-
perty and residenoe of the late Robert Leman^ D. D. reelor of
Pakefieid, near Lowestoft^ who died here in 1T79; and is interred
in the ehaocel of the parochial chnreb.
WoaLiHGWORTH. In the chancel of the cfavrch of this Tik
bge, is interred Sir John Major^ Bart who died in 1781. He
was an elder brother of the Trinity Honse, high Sheriff of 8ns-
sex in 1755^ elected in 1761^ a representatiTe in parliament for
Scarborough, and created a baronet, with remainder to his son-
in-law, John Henniker, Esq. who was afterwards elevated to the
peerage by the title of Lord Henniker, and died in 1803.
In this church is preserved the antique and beautiful Gothic
font, which once adorned the abbey church at Bury, and escaped
the general wreck of the dissolution. It was some years since
thMOughly refiaired and beantiCed, at ttie expense of Ae present
Xord Heaniker.*^
HUNDRED OF PLOMfiS&ATS.
The hundred of Plonesgate, containing twenty-tbur parirtes
and hamlets, is bounded on the east, by the Gknnan ocean ; on the
sonth,*by the hundred of Wilford ; on the east, by Loes; and on
' the north, ' by Hoxne and Blything. It comprehends three mar-
ket towns, Aldborough, Orford, and Saxmundham.
Aldbobodoit, or, as it was ibrmeriy denomuiated, AUkhmrgi^
derivea its name from the river Aid, and is pleasantly mtuated in
the valley of Siaughden, under shelter of a steep hiU, whidi nms
north and south Uie whole length of the prindpal strecl, about
three quarters of a mile.
Two hundred yeaiB ago, Aldborough was a place of oonsider-
*. An sagriYing of thii font was pnbltabed in t75S, by Vertiis,
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auFFOUL 317
^ikf unportauice^ but repeut^^d iacroidtiiieato of the Ma. Tednced
it to tlie nuik of & soiaU fishing tova. Baring the but ceotnry,
Ihc octaa made great ravafres, nd in the reooUeettoa of pertone
J«4 Bvkig, destroyed many hettei, together with the Berfcet-
fliee «iid tross. A plan of the tewn in I659i^ which is still ex-
Ittil^ fkToves it to liave been at thntttme a piece of eooeidenhle
leigiiilede, atid represeols the duurch es being at mere than tea
t&Biei ila preix^ul dlataiice froin fhe ahdre. Prom the eaaedeco-
it nldo a|>pear9, that tlieie wen denes of oome eateot, n*
ilar to Ihofle at Yarmouth, between the town and see, which
loiig heen evallowed up,
^1Qielefm<^ importance of Aldboroogh, indaoed auuiy noaarohs
ii font it exti-n&ive cLartf ra. The last of theae^ renewed by
CWteii II. eDtrufliu llie goveriunentof the town to two bailiA,
fn capital^ aiid twcuty-four infecnr bmgetaea, giving also a
\ power to the majority of ttie capital bnrgeasea, one of them being
I a htili^ la elect an unliiuilcd nnmbor of freemen, mther relident,
or not By tbe baili^ oiiil bargeaaes resident in the borough,
* and aot receiving alms, abuut thirty in nnmber, two membera are
retamed to the parliament of tbe Umted Kingdom. It fiiat aent .
trcprescotsiiTes, in tbe 131h of EUzabeth, and. as Wiliia* aappoaea,
•btsfoed the elective fianchiti: in the tenth year of thatqneen's
ntpi, when she grauted the Duke of Norfolk a weekly market on
Saturday, at tlus his manor.
Till wtthia the lanl fifU^tn or twenty years, Aldborougb, depo^.
palated and impovei isUtil bjr the incroacbments of the sea, was
haatenitig' to complete decay ; but aeveral fiunilics of distinction,
wisbiog for a greater degree of privacy and retirement than can
be enjoyed in a fatiiiloaable watering-place, having made this
town their suitiiner reBideuce, its appearance has lately been totally
^umgedL To the deep sands which formerly led to it, have suc-
ceeded excellent tnmpike-roads, and instead of tbe clay-built cot-
tages, wbich give the place a mean and sqtolid appearance, are now
aeea
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Mtr S01WI.S.
doBai relmllof penwuiof nak andllbcteie.
Miteiioitliemtalraiiiyof tfetowa, tm the MiwMl«r tiw^
litllifluidBtlie elmrcfa^ an tas^m^haiUimgp thsnghTery Hnleb ifi>- '
tanixediiitli OMdem woik. It
loeBls; Wl tiMw arefsome stoiMS aypavaiUy of <
ti|Mty. ia tlwdtodi^yari^ whieh^ from its eb?«ted
a nagnificent tiw of Ite ooao. Near tiie ehaicii
I »tnriiieiFin% bull aftw aa itaUan pbn, by L. Ycnm,.
Eai{. and aveh adnnred te a: aiBgaiarly bantiM iitkKgm nam. -
At thia esEtremhy of the town alao, on the hniw e£ the hiil, ace
ailaactodlheaMBaiiMrof tiieHoKttiWyaihaBi; aadaroanaUo
caMine» tbe^ &Yeffite anaiBKr leaidenee of the Mai^ua of Mis-
bury. At the oppeatte end of the tenaee ia the aeet of W. C.
Creapigny, Sa^ AlltfieaebeioDgtothereceD*iinpoTettenta of.
Aldboroagk
For the pioteetioB of the iiAing aad tradia^ teaadb on this
coeat^ tiwre ia' nheHary of tno aJghtoB^pnariHra at theaonUnm >
extaonitsrvf' the main alieet, and m nuorlde iewer on the heaoh^ .
abenttfanerqnarteivof naule tether tathenonthy iaiaAendedta
add to their aaenri^. Thia bnildinv, tfaoogh oonawneed tear
ywa ago^ yet remaina nniniafeled: isdbed the neoeaaity aadnd*
ranttigeof 80 expenaiTe an areetion, appear Ofnally donbtfoL
For invalida Aidborough poaaeaaea advnatagea aemDety Ofaal*
led, and certainly not eseeDed, by any which the meat faalfion.
aUeplseeaofreaortoasbenat The atraad, to winch the deecent
ia remaricably eaay, i* not mom thaa Ibtty or fi% yarda fioni
moat of the lodging honaea; and dnrinn; the tide of ebb, andfre-
qoently far weefca together, it ia peenliaily adapted for walking
and bathing, as the aaad ia vary haid.aad fini, and the balhiag«^
machinea, of which ^^ are k^heie, aftrd the giealeat aecarity
andeoafart:
To the attraelioaa of the aen bendi, Aidborongh adda nnoywr,
which cannot fui to delight the lover of Nature. The magnifi.
cent terrace on the annunit of the bill behind the town, corn-
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S9EFOIJL att
i % mm that enbraoes muiy iuJUvrm, both of the sbUum
aad bewtiful ; for not only dooi th^ eye windier over the bouiik*
lee» aptsee of AUborough and HoHesly Bftye, licUy studded
wMi tbeur Meviiig treuureik end aepanited frook eaok oUmt bf
the iffomoBtory of Orfcard-neM ; but it is also gratified wilii a
view ef a rich eeaatry, through which flows the cKfrnsiom Aide^
«ddiiiga;beaaty of nooetmHoahifldy totheseeae^
Thk wtfestie river» after approaoUag within a faw' heodied
jarda of the sea, to the south of the town, saddeidy tnmi lowaida
Orford^ bdow which place it discharges itself inti^the oeesa. Be%
aides the beantiea whidb it exhilnts, the widthand diflliof) its
chaimeli' and the eesy. flow of its tides^ reader it peoaliarlyf
adapted far pleesure yachts and boats, of which sevemfc are kepi
by the residents of the town. Northward of the pkee is a laero^
•r lafee, of coasideraUe egct^nt^ the draining of whieh; is in eeii«
templation.
AlAorongh has long ban fawms, and is abandsatly sap*
plied with every neossssry, aadnKWtof the lajianeat>f the tables
The native inhabitanti are chiefly fishenaen. Heniags and
sptefes in large qnantities w^re, till latdy^ enred here lot' em*
peitatiofr to Holland; hot since the suspension of our interi*
oamae with that covatry, thia branch of industry haagreatly da« '
dined*
In^the year 11(!^> the manor of Aldebure was given by William
Hartel to the abbot aad convent of St John, in €k>lcheiften At
asabsequent period, this muMr, together with the manors of Scoto
and Tastards, in this neighbourhood, was granted to Cardinal
Wolsey, as part of the possessions of the priory of Saape, which
was a cell to the Abbey of Colchester; and after the disgrace of
that prelate, they were given, 24 Henry VIII. to the Duke of
Norfolk.
Aldborougfa contains 201 houses, and 804 inhabitants. It has
a small market twice a week, on Wednesday and Satnrday, and
two annual &irs on March 1, and May 3.
The authors of the Magna Britannia^ make mention of the
miraculous
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idnicaloas apptswranee of pease O^'the sd» tiout,' wetoriiib^rtiogfc^
daring a &miBe, in the reiga of Queen MoFjr, by \i3^ tbetivw
df many of tbe neighbonrhig poor wxfe providentMy ':*.iMil *
These pea^e, as ^eil as the cotetnMs^ found growtng'oa ^
ionth pa^ of the meer-slunglos, . are ntet Willi in sevend ^al*
lar satiiitiotti on the English coast The ibnner iir tho Pumai
martnujft; it bears a pnrple Uoiwoin in Jnne, and in a prosttite
pUmt, perennial, •-with a Tsry deep root;. and thonglk H jnnst Junre
grown hare before/ distress probably fisl broagbt it ii^ notiee off
the occasion abore allnded to*
' Orfoed is sitbaied near the eonflneitee of t)te rivers Aide
and Ore^ from the latt^ bf<^hich,p: il is' eenjeiftured to have
derived ita name. This I6wn, onoo?^^ place of coosUerafaie
traffic and importance, is vjom 'smalLsttd itt-^bniit.' Tfao«gii net
a parish, its church being only a.chapd of ease to tbe ai^acGnl
village of Sndbome^ it is a corporate town, governed Uy a mayor>
eiglit porlnien» mid twdte eiiief bingesses. It sends two mem-
bers t0' paliiamenty in which it was represented so eaiiy as. thq
reign of Edward I. bnt aegleciting for a long aeries of- fsmmdft,
• avail itself of the elective iirandbJse, it lest tUa n^wk^^j^fl
snpposed to have been restored to the'towii.B)rlUeha]!d '" " *"
in his first year, granted itachaiiei^ vith coimBiet»Bki|liiwft(|pBg;
It contains 83* houses, and 751 inhabitants; has a weeU)
on Monday, and a fidr on the 24tk of June. Qrfecd*
gave the title of Earl to Adnucal Rnssdl, who van 6I4
the peerage by William UL for Us eminent 'aervices» . H^l||^p*^^
become extinct in that fainiiy.^ it was reviveiin ihe pemmiiM;^^' yf
BobertWalpole, in 1741; but again boosttfing eKtinct^.w Jttir/'-^-
death 1^ fioiatio^ &mrtfa <»trl, ia J9V7> it ^mi^^^oakiaieiJjkUilKs' .-
on Horatio, Baron Wolpole of Woljkorion, *j . .. '■>-.• ^ \r%l^
The most remarkable, object at Oxibvd is the Cjoiih^ Si«leiwii
a rising gmnsd, westward of the place. This:^pot in vepettad to
have formeify>een Uie centre :«f4he lewn 9 m ftSsditiolk wfaiek lum
every appearance of being fbnnded on'trttth. " Nol only are great
qoantitiea of old bricl^y stones, and otlier remains <tf fanildiaga
frequently
rJ
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SDFFOLk. 321
i^eqaently tarnedl up by the plough^ in the fields to fhe west and
ionth of the castle, bat seTeral of them retain the name of street
annexed to their denomination of field, as West Street Field, in al«
Innon to streets formerly situated there : in addition to which eyi*
denee, the report is corroborated by the charter of the corporation
and other authentic records.
All that at present remains of this castle is the keep. Its
figure is a polygon, of eighteen sides, described within a circle^
whose radios is twenty-seyen feet This polygon is flanked by
three square towers, placed at equal distances, on the west, north-
east and south-east sides ; each tower measuring in front nearly
twenty*two feet, and projecting twelve feet from the principal
building. They are embattled, and overlook the polygon, which
is ninety feet high. The walls at the base are twenty feet
thick : at the lower part they are solid, but galleries and small
apartments are formed in them above. Round this building ran
two cirenlar ditches, the one fifteen, and the other thirty-eight
feet distant from the walls. Between these ditches was a cir*
cular wall, part of which opposite to the south-east tower Is still
remaining. In 1769, when the view of this castle, given by
Grose, was taken, this firagment was sufficiently entire to shew
that this wall was orginally forty feet high, and had a parapet
and battlements; but the hand of time has since considerably
reduced it The entrance into this castle was through a square
building, adjoining to the west side of the tower, on the south*
east part of the polygon, to which a bridge conducted over tha
two ditches. The interior of the keep contained one room oa
a floor, and was divided into four stories, as may still be seen by
the holes made in the wall for the reception of the joists. By a
spiral staircase it may be ascended to the top The main build-
ing is lighted by two stages of small windows, and the tourers
by five ; but the latter might with greater propriety be denomi*
sated eyelet-holes. It is related that there was a small building
. adjoining to the keep, called the Kettle-house, which fell down
fjioat seventy yean afo« This is conjectured by Grose to hava
Vol, XIV, Y " been
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^2 SUFFOLK.
been the kiidien. Lord Hertford purposed some yeais ago to
take down what remains of this castle^ for the sake of the mate^
rials, bnt as it was considered a necessary sea-mark, eq^^iaUy §or
ships coming from Holland, whieh, by steering so as to make the-
eastle cover, or hide the church, avoid a dangerous sand-bank^
called the Whiting, government interfered and prevented the exe*
cntion of the design.
. • We have now no means of ascertaining eithef the time of the-
erection of this castle, or the name of its founder: but it is
presumed to be of Norman origin, from its being coigned, and
in some places cased with Caen-stone, and to have been built
soon after the Conquest. According to a curious story, quoted
by Camden, from Ralph de Coggeshall, an ancient writer. It
must have existed in the reign of Henry I. when Barlholomew
de Glanvil is said to have been constable of it Stowe, from the
same authority, and naming the same constable, fixes this cir-
^u^tance in 33 Henry II. and it is by other writers placed alaiost
a century later^ in the 6th of King John. These las^ relate it a»
ftllows:—
In the sixth year of John's reign, some fishermen of OvforC
took in their nets a sea-monster, resembling a man in size and
figure. He was given to the governor of OHbrd Castle, who*
kept him several days. He had hair on those parts of the body
where it usually grows, except on the crown of the head,whicl»
was bald ; and his beard was long and ragged. He ate fish and
flesh, raw or cooked^, but when raw,, he first pressed it in his
bands. He could not be made to speak, though to force him te
it, the governor's servants tied him Up by the heels, and crueU^F
tormented him. He lay down on his couch at sun*sel^ and rose
again at sun-rising. The fishermen carried him one day to the
sea, and let him go, having first spread three rows of strong
nets to prevent his esci^; but diving under them, the animal
appeared beyond these barrien, and seemed to deride his asto^
Hished keepers, who giving him up for lost, returned home,,
whither, however, they wore soon followed by the monster. He
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SUFFOLK, SSt^
^ODtimied with them for some time ; |)ut heing, as we are told,
weary of living ashore, he watched an opportunity, and stole away
tosea.
At the distant period in which this event is placed, Orford
Castle appears to have helonged to the crown. We find that
in 1215, Hogh Bigod and John Fitz-Rohert were made governors
of Norwich and Orford Castles ; and that on their removal in th«
same year, Hubert de Burgh was appointed gpvemor of both.
In 48 of Henry III. after that monarch had been taken prisoner
at the battle of Lewes, by his barons, they conferred this poBt>
^hich seems to liave been considered an important one, on Hugh
le Despenser. By one of Henry's successors this castle was
probably given to the descendants of Peter de Valoines, who
made it the capital seat of their barony. This must have been
prior to the reign of Edward III. in whose fourth year Robert de
Ufford having married the daugh^r and co-heir of Robert de
Valoines, obtained a grant of this town and castle for life. In the
5th of Richard II. William de Ufford died seised of it, and Isabel,
his wife, had it assigned, among other possessions, for her dowry.
On her death, Robert Lord Willoughby of Eresby, whose an*
cestor married Cecilia, daughter of the above-mentioned Robert
de Uffi>rd, had livery of this town and castle, ia the 4th of
Henry V. In the 18th of Henry VIII. William Lord Willoughby
died possessed of the lordship of Orford, which he assigned to his
widow for life. It probably descended afterwards, with the es-
tate at Sudbome, to Sir Michael Stanhope, and came with that
to Viscount Hereford, by whose executors it was sold in 1754>
to the &ther of the Marquis of Hertford, the present proprietor.
The Church, or rather Cfuipel of Orford, dedicated to St.
Bairtholomew, was, when entire, a large and very handsome builds
ing. It appears to be of great antiquity; but its founder, and
the date of its construction are both unknown : though probably,
like most other chapels of ease, it was. erected at the expence
of the inhabitants, assisted by the Lord of the Manor, and the
donations of religious individuals. Over the west door, in the
Y 2 square
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884 SUFFOLK*
square embattled steeple, is a niche^ now vacant, and tbe poreh fip
adorned with shields, and a handsome cross oyer the cente. Thm
inside cf the arch is adorned with kings' heads ; six on the west^
and five on the east side. The tracery of the windows is fin^
and in good preservation. The interior consisted of three aisles^;
those of the body are still standing; but the chancel haviog^
fidlen to ruin, has been excluded by a wall built across the east-
end of the nave. This chancel appears, from its remains, to havf
been of a workmanship fiir superi<Mr to the other portion of th»
edifice, and also of much higher antiquity, probably of a date an*
terior to the castle itself. These remains consist of a double row
^f five thick columns, supporting circular arches ; whereas thosa
an tl.e rest of the building are of the pointed form. The heighl
«f these columns is equal to their circumference, each measuring
about twelve feet. The arches on their inner sides are decorated
with the zigzag ornament; a»d all the carvings are sharp, and
seem to have been highly finished. The columns are cased with
hewn stone; the interior being filled with flint and sand. A
aingularity observable in them, is the difierent mode in which
their sur&ces are decorated, so that even the opposite ones ara
not alike. They have in general cylindrical mouldings, running
firom the base to the capital, some four, and others six, like small
columns attached to' the main shaft. In one, these mouldings
twist spirally round the column : in another, though they take
the same direction, they are continued only in every second
course of the stones of which it is composed : while in a third,
they cross each oth^ lozenge fashion, and form an embossed net*
woric.
The Ume, says Orose,* when this beautifiil chancel was suf-
fered to fidl to ruin, is not exactly koown ; though the mono-
ment of the Rev. Mr. Mason, once rector of Sudbome, seems to
shew that it was in tolerable repair about the year 1621, when
that gentleman was buried, and had his monument set up in it^
an expenca which his executors would not have taeuired, had the
duiQcel
* Aatiquitfct, V. 77.
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SX7PF0LX. 325
ohancel then Been in ruins. This momnment is a mural one ; it
stands against the sbuth wall of the chapel, and is of marhle.
On it is the figure of Mr. Mason on his knees, praying at a desk,
upon which a large book lies open ; beneath. is the following iiw
Acription :
** Here lyeth Franncis Mason, borne in the bishoprick of Du-
resme, brought up in the universitie of Oxford, batchelonr of
divinitie, fellow of Merton College, after rector of Orforde, in
Suffi>lk^ where he built the parsenage-honse ; chapleyne to king
James. The books which be writ testify his learning. He mar*
ried Elizabeth Price, daughter of Nicholas Price, vicar of Bis*
sain, in Oxfordshire, by whom he had three children. She
erected this monument for him. He died in December, 162K
*' Primm Deo cai cara fuit f acrare labores,
Cui itudiuro sacris invigilare Librif,
£cce sub boc tandem reqaievit marmore Ma«o,
Eipectans Dominom speq ; fideq ; taam,'*
Cfn a triangular tablet at the bottom ;
" Id justice to the memory of &o great a man, who was rector
here 80 years, and above 1 10 years old, this monument was re-
moved from the ruinous chancel, and repaired and set up here at
the charge of the present incumbent, Josiah Alsop, B. D. Anno
1720.''*
Besides this, Orford chapel contains various other funeral me-
morials, particularly a coffin-shaped ston^ with a cross-fleury,
and several brass-plates, put down about the time of Elizabeth^
or James I. The arches dividing the ailes of the body are pointed.
The font is very elegant, and apparently ancient Round the
ed^e it has this inscription, but without date : Orate pro Animas
Y3 bus
* In this last inscription tliere are two great roistakei« one respecting th«
age, and the other the tirae^ that Mr. Mason held the rectory of Orford. In
Wood's AtKen^t Otoniann^ there is an acooont of him, in which he it said
to have been bom in 1556, and made rector of Orford in 1597. According to
the monument, he died iu 16tl, lo that bis age could bqC exceed 55/ or his
iacnmbeucj S4 years.
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3M 8U7VOLK.
Ms Jokannis Cokerel, et Katerkut uxaris ejus qiU istam fmtem
in honare Dei feeenmt fieri.
Orford has a mean Taum-hali and an Assembly-housey a plain
brick baildipg^ erected about forty years ago by the Marqaia of
Hertford, but very little used.
Thai this town was formerly of mach greater extent than at
present, other facts, besides those already adverted to, aeem to
demonstrate. In addition to the parochial chapel, it had one
dedicated to St, John the Baptist, and another to St. Leonard.
These were standing since the year 1600 ; and a piece of land
on the north side of the town is still called St John's Chapel
Field, In 1350 Orford sent three ^ips and Bixty->two men to
assist Edward III. in the siege of Calais. Here too was a
house of Angnstine Friars,* an hospital of St Leonard, and a
ehanntry, valued at the Dissolution at 61. Ids. IH per annum :
and there are naked lanes which yet retain the name of streets,
as Bridge^slreet, . Chnrch-street, Broad-street, &c. The decline
of the town is ascribed to the loss of its harbour, from the retiring
of the sea, and a dangerous bar thrown up at its mouth by that
changeable element In Orford river there is a considerable oys-f
ter fishery, though there are no regular pits for the preservation
of the fish. In 1810, licences to dredge for them were granted by
the Marquis of Hertford to eighty vessels, at one guinea each.
About a mile from Orford is Sudbame Hall and park, a 9eat
of the Marquis of Hertford, who possesses the property and pa-
tronage of this borough, which is at present represented in par*
liament by his brother and nephew. The hall, a plain quadran^
gular building, covered with a white composition, was rebuilt
about thirty years ago by Wyatt The staircase is executed with
his usual^skill and taiste : but the general appearance of this man-
sion conveys an idea of simplicity rather than elegance. It is
chiefly used as a sporting residence, the park and neighborhood
abounding with game.
* So ssya the Suffolk Traveller, (Sd edit p. It5,) but the authon of JkUi««
BritaiiMMy<V. St9X,) call it a Benedictine uunoer^^k
Sax*
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SUFFOLK.
427
Saxmundham, a small market-tovn> seated on a hill near s
TiTulet tliat runs into the Aide, contaias 103 houses^ apd 855
inhabitants. Its market is on Thursday ; and it has two fiiirs, on
Holy Thnrsday, and the 23d of September. The streetjs are nar-
row and nnpaved: the houses in general well built: but the towii
has no particular manufacture.
At the southern extremity of the town is Hurts Hall, the man-
sion of Charles Long^ Esq. The house has within these few yearii
been partly rebuilt and considerably enlarged by the present pro*
prietor. The front consists of three semicircular projections ; the
hall is adorned with a handsome geometrical staircase : and tha
whole interior of the mansion is fitted up with taste and elegance.
The surrounding grounds have been judiciously laid out and planted
by Mr. Long, and they are embellished with a fine piece of water^
which flows through them, and the extremities of which are^ through
«kilfiil management, concealed by wood.
Near this mansion stands the church, a^ tolerably spacious build-
ing, the advowson of which belongs to the manor. The interior it
neatly fitted up, and contains monuments to the memory of the lat«
proprietor, and of his brother, Beestou Long, Esq. Here is also a
handsome mural tablet, embellished with naval trophies, and sur-
mounted by the fisunily arms, to the memory of George, son of the
last-mentioned gentleman, a lieutenant in his majesty's nay y, who
gloriously fell in the very moment of victory, at the storming of
Trincomale, in the East-Indies.
In August, 1766, the House of Industry at Saxmundham was
destroyed by a riotous assemblage of people, under pretence of
releasing the poor to harvest^work, but in reality to defeat an act
of parliament that had just passed respecting them. It was found
necessary to summon the assistance of the military ; and several
lives were lost before the disturbance was quelled.
The other places in this hundred worthy of notice are :
Benhall, formerly the lordship and estate of the UflR>rda, and
de la Poles, Earls of Suffolk. In the reign of Elizabeth it be-
longed to the Glenham fiunily, by which it was sold to that of
Y 4 Duke.
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S38 I07FOLK.
Duke. BenkaU Lodge m9a}m\timl9a8,hY Bit EimndJhke,
iirho, in IMl, was eretlid a btraiit. Hk jnodawj
out latae, the eatate devdlTed to bia niter'a 9tt^ ;
relli Esq. of Gi|r|^ng, aad paased tliroiigh varicnal
bicame the property mad residence of the late Adnuial Sir ]
Parker.
BEUiSTAftD is worthy of mentioii only for a ooUegtate <
of a warden and fonr aecular prieaU, founded kj Maud doi
caster, countess of Ulster, at that time a nun at Campsey,
which place it was translated hither in 1354. About eleven ]
afterwards it was changed into a nunnery of the order of St. <
and was yalued at the Dissolution at 66L 2s. Id. It '
in the dOth Henry VIIL to Nicholas Hare; and baa
some time in the &mily of Lord Rous, the present proprietor*
At BuTLBY, about four miles west from the sea» and three ^^Qlif.; i
Orford, wfis a priory of Black Canons of St Augustine, founded i||\i
1171, by Ranulph de Glanviile, a famous lawyer, afterwar4#i '
QSticiary of England, who dedicated it to the Blessed Viq$iii|^ ^
and endowed it with many churches and lands. Being removw'r-^l
from his office, he, in a fit of discontent, took on him the cnMi^ 'JT^
attd resolved to visit the Holy Land. Accordingly he aecompiitygg^'.
nied King Richard I. thither, and was present at the si^^ ^^'mt-
Acre. Before he set out on this expeditioi^ he divided his estafe^j^l
among his three daughters. To Maud, the eldest, who marriel^^ *\
William de Auberville, he gave the entire manor of BenhaU^ "
and the patronage of the monastery at Butiey ; and fo his other
daughters the remainder of his estates.
Kiftg Henry Yll. in the 24th year of his reign, granted tlw .
priory and convent of Butiey, the priory .of the Virgin Mary at
Snape in this county, with all the lands and tenements then be* .
longing to it, or which Thomas Neyland, late prior of Snape, etK*;;
joyed in right of the same ; to hold in pure and perpetual afans*
without account of any rents, and to be annexed to the said priory
of Butiey. The priory of Snape, situated about five miles north
ft Butiey, was originally a ceD to the abbey of St. John at Cok
cbeatei^
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fe
^,
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iImM, \fj the a^ppmstmait of William Martel^ Ae founder; but
ftM^Moe ^Rrma depriTed of it by tbe bull of Pope BoDi&ce IX*
mder the ]^eleaee that it did not maintain there a sufficient nn»*
Wr of lefigkms acccHrdiag to the will of the founder; it was ther^
kte made eoDTentoal^ and absoWed firom its snbjection to Col«
Chester. This bidl^ however^ seems to hare had hot little eiect|
fer it sppean from the legirter of the bishopric of Norwich, that
the MtA and convent of Colchester presented the priors down to
1491 ; and probably the canons of Bntley found that this eefl
hroi^ht them more trouble than profit, for in 1509 they quitted aO
claim and title to H.
The endowment ai this priory was yery ample. At the Disso*
iBElim the aannal income was estimated at 3181. 178. 2d. : its site
was snorted, 32 Henry Till, to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, ; and
96 of tiie sane king to William Forth, in whose fiunily it long
eoBtinaed. In 1787, George Wright, Esq. whose property it
Umb wa% fitted up the gat&-hoose, and coDverted it into a hand-
aome mansioa, which has nnce been inhabited as a shooting seat
hy noriooa penons of distinction. Mr. Wright, at lis death, left
it to hm Widow, from whom it descended to John Clyatt, a
watehnmn in London, as heir-at-law ; and was by him sold to
Mr. Strah«i> printer to his majesty. It was afterwards the pro»
pertf of Lord Archibald Hamiltcm, by whom it was sold, with the
Rendlesham estate, to the fiither of the present noble possessor.
In the chnrdi of this priory was bterred the body of Michael de
la Pole, third hard Wingfield, and Earl of Snflfolk, who fell at
the battle of Agincourt, with Edward Plantagenet, Duke of
TeriL
The priory was both large and magnificent ; its walls and mine
ecenpy near twelve acres of ground. The gate-house was an
cl^aiit atmctiire. Its whole front is embellished with coats of
mms fiady eat in atone : and between the interstices of the free-
stone are placed aqnare black flints, which, by the contrast of
tieir ooloor^ ^▼^ it a beautiful and rith appearance. Sonth of
the gaie«wr»y «re the remains of sereral buildings, particularly of
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330 sttrFOLK.
itn old chapel^ in a wall of which^ as Grose was infonned, a cbest
of money was found arefaed into the wall, and tke arch was still
Tisible when the view given by him was taken.*
Glemham Parta gave name to a iamily^ which flourished
there till the middle of the seventeenth century^ when two persons
belonging to it raised themselves to great eminence in their re-
spective professions. Sir Thomas was the eldest son of Sir
Henry Glemham, of this place, by Anne, daughter of Thomas
Sackville, Earl of Dorset. On finishing his education at Trinity
College, Oxford, he embraced a military life, aad went to Ger-
many, which was then the school for English officers. Returning to
his native country at the commeBoemeilt of the war between Charies
L and his parliament. Sir Thomas took the part of his majesty;
and was enabled, by the skill which he had acquired abroad, to
render him the most signal services. Having reduced York, which
had declared for the parliament, he was appointed governor of
that city, and defended it with the greatest intrepidity fer eigh-
teen weeks against the united forces of the English and Scotch,
till the defeat of the king at Marston Moor compelled him to
capitulate, but upon terms honorable to himself and'advantageous
to the citizens. He was then sent to command the garrison of
Carlisle, which, assisted by his two gallant countrymen. Colonel
Gosnold, of Ottley, and Major Naunton, of Letheringham, he
defended nine months, in spite of pestilence and ftunine, with
remarkable circumstances of resolution and patience ; and on his
surrender, obtained not less honorable terms for that city than
he had for York. The fortitude and gallantry displayed by Sir
Thomas on both these occasions, marked him as the fittest person
to be appointed to a similar command at Oxford. Here he aug-
mented and strengthened the works, and prepared for an obsti-
nate resistance in case of a siege, which, though it would have
probably terminated in his surrender, must have cost the enemy
a great expence of blood. His majesty, however, in the hope of
obtaining some important advantages for h^nself and his friends,
seol
• Antifukieh V. 61.
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SUFTOUL 331
sent express orders to Sir Thomas to give up the place^ ^nd with
these he relactantly complied, hut not till he had stipulated with
FairfiLX for the most &vorahle terms. Being, however, contrary
to the articles, soon afterwards apprehended, he was imprisoned
for some time, and, on his release, fled to Holland, where he
died in 1649. His brother caused his remains to be brought to
England, and interred in the church of this his native place, with
the following inscription on his monument :
Tho. Gleraham, cni castra Carleolense
£t Eboracense Monumentum sant, et
Oxoniom Epitaphiom.
Henry, the brother of Sir Thomas, was equally distinguished
for loyalty and attachment to the royal cause. He was bred to
the church ; and on the triumph of the popular party was de*
prived of all his preferments. On the restoration of Charles II. his
fidelity was rewarded with the appointment, first, to the deanery
of Bristol ; and in 1667 to the bishopric of St. Asaph. He sur-
vived this promotion only two years, and was interred in the vault
belonging, to his ftimily in the parish church of this place.
In the grandson of Sir Thomas, the fieunily of Glemham be-
came extinct The estate was purchased by Dudley North, Esq.
who made great improvements in the Hall, where his son now
resides.
Parham was the lordship of the de Uffords, Earls of Suffolk.
The church was built by William de Ufibrd, who dying suddenly
while attending his parliamentary duty, the estate went to his
sister. Cicely, who married Sir Robert Willoughby, and carried
it into that fiunily. Their descendants, who were elevated to the
peerage by the title of Willoughby de Eresby, were for some time
in possession of this manor, till one of those barons gave it to his
youngest son Christopher, who fixed his residence here. His
son. Sir William, was, in the first year of Edward VI. created
liord Willoughby of Parham; and his successors eigoyed the
honour till the doath of Henry, the ^sixteenth lord, in 177& The
4 tido
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tide is now vetted in Priacilla Barbara Elizabetii Lindsay^ wife
of Lord Gwydir^ daughter and co-heir of Peregrine, Dake of An*
eatter, and joint hereditary great Chamberlain of England.
In 1734, the bones of a man, an nm, and the bead of a spear,
were feond in a grarel pit in a field called Fryer's Close, in this
parish.
This place seems to have had its Christmas-flowering thorn like
that at Glastonbury. It is mentioned by Kirby, in the first edi*
tion of his Smfolk Traveller; and the Ipswich Journal of January
13, 1753, contains a letter, affirming that it budded eleven days
earlier than usual, in order to accommodate itself to the new
style. The publisher of that paper, however, observes, notwith-
steading the positive manner of the writer, that he had received a
very diflerent account of the Parham thorn.
At Parham was bom in 1717 Joshua Kirbt, F.R.S. A.S
designer in perspective to their Majesties. He was the son of
John Kirby, author of the SnA>lk Traveller; and himself pub-
lished in 1766, Dr. Brook Taylor^ s Perspective Made Easy, a
work of distinguished merit Mr. Kirby died in 1774, and was
interred in Kew church-yard, where the remains of his friend,
Thomas Gainsborough, were afterwards, by his express desire,
placed beside him. He married Miss Sarah Bull, of Framlingham,
by whom he had two children ; William, who died in 1771, and
the late Mrs. Trimmer.
Shape is of note only ibr a monastery of Black Friars, founded
there in 1099, by William Martell, Albreda, his wife, and Jeffiry,
their son and heir, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Being
possessed of the manor of Bnape, including the benefit of wrecks
of the sea from Thorp to Hereford Ness, they gave it to the
abbey of Colchester, Ibr the purpose of founding at this place
a priory, which should be a cell to that abbey. A prior and iMme
Benedictine monks from that house were accordingly settled here
in 1165; but upon complaint made by Isabel, Countess of Sufifolk,
and patroness of this priory, to Pope Boni&ee IX. that the said
pibbcit foid convent did not maintain a jnii^ent number of religious
in
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StFFOLX,
igk it according to ike will of the ibnnders^ thiti honee was, by a
bull, dated A. D. 1403, made con^entoal, and exempted from all
■abjection to that at Colchester. WUliam de la Pole, Earl of
Saffi}lk, in the time of Henry VI. designed to have new-founded
this priory ; which was given by King Henry VII. in his 24th
year, to the monastery of Bailey ; but the prior and his canons
relinquished all claim to it in 1509. It was suppressed in 1584,
and givjen to Cardinal Wolsey for the endowment of his colleges;
and after the Cardinal's attainder, the site of this edifice was
granted to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk.
The church of Snape is dedicated to St John Baptist, and
contains a very ancient and highly ornamented stone font The
figures round the pillar by which it is supported are an assemblage
of kings, prehiies, and non-descripi birds, standing on pedestals.
The font is hexagonal, having a pillar at each angle ; between
the pillars are figures, the alternate ones of which are crowned :
the others are in priesfs habits, and all of them bear a scroll,
the characters of which are illegible,^
HUNDRED OF BUTHIN6:
The hundred of Blithing is bounded on the east by the Ocean ;
on the west and south by the hundreds of Hoxne and Plomesgate ;
and on the north by Wangford and Muiford. It contains forty-
eight parishes, and three market-towns, Dunwich, Halesworil^
and Sonthwold.
Dunwich, once an important, opulent, and commercial city,
now a mean village, stands on a cliff of considerable height,
commanding an extensive view of the German Ocean, about four
miles south of Southwold. This place still retains its market,
which is held on Mondays, but is so scantily supplied, as
scarcely to deserve the name ; and has seiU two members to par-
liament
* A view of tMf corioai font it given io the Anti^wUn €ni Topogra'
fhie^l Ctikmtt, No. SO.
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384 mmouL
liament er^r sinee the CoBmanB of England fint acquired the
right of representation. The corporation conaista of two bailiffii^
and twelve capital burgesses ; and the right of election lies in the
freemen reaiding within the borough^ and not receiving alms. Ac->
cording to the retoms of 1801, the town contained forty-two
houses, and 184 inhabitants.
Though many of the traditionary accounts relative to this town
are probably fabolbus, it is nevertheless certain that it is a place
of very high antiquity. It is conjectured by some to have been
a station of the Romans, from the number of their coins disco-
vered here. So much is certain, that in the reign of Sigcbert,
king of the East*Angles, Felix, the Bargundian bishop, whom
that monarch in^ted hither to |ff0HM>te the conversion of his sub-
jects to Christianity, fixed his episcopal see at Dunwich in the
year 1636 : and here his successors continued, as is related under
the ecclesiastical histor of the county, for about two hundred
yean.
When an estimate was taken of all the lands in the kingdom by
Edward the Confessor, there were two carves of land at Dun-
wich, but one of these had been swallowed up by the sea before
the Conqueror's survey was made. It was then the manor of
Robert Malet, and contained eleven Bordarii, twenty-four free-
men, each holding forty acres of land, 196 burgesses, 178 poor,
and three churches. It became the demesne of the crown about
the banning of the reign of Henry 11. at which time, as we arf
infonned by William of Newbury, it had a mint, and was a town
of good note, abounding with much riches, and sundry kinds of
merchandizes. The annual fee-form rent then paid by it was
1201. 13s. 4d« and twenty-four Uiousand herrings. This was pro-
bably the period of its highest prosperity.
Under Richard I. Dunwich was fined 1060 marks, Orford 15,
Ipswich 200, and Yarmouth 200, for unlawfully supplying the
king's enemies with com. These sums may afibrd some idea of
tiie relative importance of those towns at that time. King John,
in the first year of hia reign, granted a charter to Dunwich, by
which
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nvfvotK. 335
which its inhabitants were empowered among other things, to
marry their sons and daughters as they pleased, and also to give,
■ell, or otherwise dispose of their possessions in this town as
they should think fit. This charter, dated at Gold ClifT, 29th
Jane, 1 John, cost them three hundred marks, besides ten falcons,
and fire ger-fiedcons.
In the reign of King Edward I. after this town had consider*
ably declined, it had eleven ships of war, sixteen fiiir ships,
twenty baiks, or vessels, trading to the North Seas, Iceland, &g.
and twenty-four small boats for the home fishery. In the 24th
year of the same reign, the men of Dunwich, built at their own
cost, and eqfuipped for the defence of the realm, eleven ships of
war, most of which carried 72 men each. Foiir of these vessels
with their artillery, valued at 2001. were taken and destroyed
by the enemy, while on service off the coast of France. In
1347, this port sent six ships with 102 mariners, to assist in
the siege of Calais; but during the war with FVance, most of
the ships belonging to it were lost, together with the lives of
about 500 townsmen, and goods, and merchandize to the value of
10001.
A still greater loss however, was sustained by this town in the
removal of its port; a new one being opened within the limits of
Ulithburgh, not far from Walberswick Key, and two miles nearer
to Southwold than the former port. This circumstance, while it
greatly increased the trade of those places, caused that of Dun-
wich to decline in the same proportion ; and, combined with the
ravages of the ocean, gradually reduced this town to poverty ;
in consideration of which, the fee-farm rent paid to the crown was
abated at various times, till Charles II. fixed the anu>unt of it at
one hundred shillings per annum.
The present ruinous state of this once flourishing place, is
pwing chiefly to the repeated encroachments of the ocean. Seat-
ed upon a hill composed of loam and sand of a loose texture, on
a coast destitute of rocks, it is not surprising that its buildings
•hoald have tuccetsively yielded to the impetuosity of the bil-
lows.
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936 ftrrrou*
Iow8« fcrealuAg agtuut, and easily andemiaing the fool of tlie
precipices. The following geoeral view of their principal ra*
Tages is extracted from Gardner's Historical Accoont :-*
We have already seen that out of two carres of land, taxed
under King Edward the Confessor, one had been washed away,
at the time of the Conqueror's sunrey. The sea, agitated by
▼iolent east, or sooth-eaat winds, continaed its conquests quite to
the town, for whose preservation, Henry III. in the 6th year of
his reign, not only required assistance of others, but himself
granted 200L towards makinga fence to check its inroads. Dnn-
wich snfiered considerable damage on the night of January l8t»
1286, from the violence of the winds and sea, by which sereral
churches were overthrown, and destroyed in different places. In
the first year of Edward IIL the old port was rendered entirely
useless, and before the twenty-third of Uie same king, great part
of the town, containing upwards of four hundred houses which
paid rent to the fee-farm, wiih certain ahc^ and windmills, had
fallen a prey to the waves. After this, the church of Su Lao-
nard was overthrown, and in the course of the same century, the
churches of 8t Martin, and St Nicholas, were also destroyed.
In 1540, the church of St John Baptist was demolished, and
before 1600, the chapels of St Anthony, St Firmtcis, and St
Katherine, together with the South Gate, and Gilden Gate, were
swallowed up, so that not one quarter of the town was then left
standing. In the reign of Charles I. the Temple buildbga yield-
ed to the irresistible force of the sui^ges, and the sea reached to
the maricet-place in 1677, when the townsmen sold^the mate*
rials of the cross. In 16S0, all the buildings north of Maiaoa
Dieu Laue were demolished ; and in 1702, the sea reached St
Peter's church, which was dismantled and soon undermined. The
town-hall shared the same fete. In 1715, the jail was absorbed,
lind in 1720, the farthest bounds of St Peter's church-yard wer^
washed away. In December 1740, the wind blowing very har4
from the north-east, and continuing fer several days, occasioned
terribls devastatioas. Great part of the <diff was carii^ away by
tht
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dUFTOLlt S37
the riideitce of the wayes, which destroyed the last remains of the
churcli-yan! of St, Nicholas, tuj^ether with the great road for-
meriy leading from the Key to the town, leaving several naked
Wtilis, the tokens of ancient buildings. King's Holm, otherwise
called Leonard's Marsh, then worth 1001. per annam, was laid
under water, and covered with snch quantities of shingle and
sand, as to be ever since of very little value. The Cock and
Hen hills, which, the preceding suiiiraer, were forty feet high,
had their heads levelled with their bases, and the ground about
them was so rent and torn, that the foundation of the chapel of
St. Francis, situated between thera, was exposed to view. The
remains of the dead were waslied from their repositories, and se-
veral skeletons appeared scattered upon the beach. A stone cof-
fin containing human bodies covered with tiles, was also seen,
but before it could be reinovedj the Violence of the surges broke
it in two pieces. Near the chapel, were found at the same time,
the pipes of an aqueditct, soine of which were of lead, and others
of grey earth. The fotjowinfr year, in digging a trench for the
purpose of draining the maibhes overflowed the preceding winter,
were discovered several old coins, and other curiosities, of which
Gardner has given a representation in his History.* -
Dunwich had but one church iu the time of Edward the Con-
fessor, but in the reign of the Conqueror two more had been add-
ed. The erection of the former is ascribed to Felix, the first
bishop of Uunwich, to whom it was dedicated. It is farther
reported that this saint was buried here in 647, but that his
remains were afterwardu removed to Soham, in Cambridge- •
shire.
In the sequel this town contained six, if not eight parish
churches : —
St. John's church, a rectory, was a large edifice, and stood
near the great market-place, in the centre of the town. In a
will dated 1490, and proved in 1501, there is a legacy t)f tea
marks for some ornaments for this church, with the following
clause; " If it fortune the church to decay by adventure of the^
- Vol, XIV. Z «ea,*
* See p. 96.
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838 StJFFOLK.
Bea, the ten marke to be disposed of by my ationues, (or eiitcu^
tors) where they thiok best" About 1510 two legacies were given
towards building a pier against St John's church. The last insti-'
tution to it was in 1537. The inhabitants, to prevent its being
washed away by the sea, took it down about the year 1540. In
the chancel was a large grave stone, under which was discovered a
stone cofEn containing the corpse of a man, that fell to dust when
stirred. On his legs, we are told, " were a pair of boots, picked
like Crakows,''* and on his breast stood two chalices of coarse
metal. He was conjectured to have been one of the Bishops of
Dunwich.f
St. Martin's, likewise a rectory, is thought to have stood on
the east side of the town. The last institution to it, was in
1335.
St Leonard's was an impropriation. It probably stood east-
ward of St. John's, and was early swallowed up by the sea, for in
a will dated 1450, the testator devised his house in the parish
anciently called St. Leonard's.
St. Nicholas, a cross church, the tower, or steeple, standing in
the midst of it, distant twenty rods south-east of the filack
Friars. The last institution to this rectory was in 1352. The
utmost bounds of its cemetery were washed away in 1740.
St. Peter's, also a rectory, stood about sixty rods north-east of
All Saints, and had a chapel on the north side of it called St. Ni-
cholas's. This edifice, on account of the proximity of the sea,,
which daily threatened its overthrow, was by agreement of the
parishioners in 1702, stripped of the lead, timber, bells, and other
materials. The walls which alone were left standing, bein^
soon afterwards undermined by the waves, tumbled over the clifl^
The church-yard was swallowed up by the devouring element^
not more than twenty years before Gardner published his History.
All Saints is the only church of which any portion is now
standing. It was built of flint and free-stone. The square towes
is^
* Shoes with long poioted toes beot opwsrds.
t Tmmtr'tColL
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SUFFOLK. 339
n still ft%\ty entire^ bat of the body of the church nothing but a ])or-
lion of the exterior walls remains, aad cattle graze within ils area*
It appears from Gardner^ that about the year 1725, part of iliis
edifice was demolished, and its dimensions considerably reducedi
In the south aisle, which was then pulled down, were magisterial
seats, decorated with curious carved work, and the windows were
adorned with paihted glass, which, through the carelessness of
the glazier was broketi in pieces. Most of the grave-stones had
brass-plates with inscriptions, all of which were embezzled by
the persons employed in the work. We tiud thai in 1754, divine
service was performed here once a fortnight, from Lady Day to
Michaelmas, and monthly during ibo rest of the year : hut when
it was discontinued we are not iu formed. Recent inscriptions in
the church-yard, shew that it is sftill u^d as a place of ititcrnienl
for the parishioners.
In the time of the Gonqucror^ alt tlie churches then erected.
Or to be erected in Dunwich, were given by Robert Malet, to his
priory at Eye, in his charter of endowment. The prior and cou-*
vent accordingly presented to all instituted churches, and had
tithes out of most of them, together with all the revenues of such
as were impropriated, finding a secular priest to serve the cures.
According to the Register of Eije, Dunwich had two other
churches dedicated to St. Michael and St. Bartholomew, which aro
there recorded to have been swallowed up by the sea before 1331 ;
when the prior and convent of Eye, petitinued the Bishop of Nor-
wich to impropriate the church of Laxtield to them, alledging,
among other reasons, that they had loit a considerable part of
their revenues at Dunwich, by the irruptions of the ocean.
Besides these churches, Weever mentions three chapels, dedi-
cated to St. Anthony, St Francis, and 8t. Katherinc. The site
of the first is unknown. The second stood between Cock and
Hen Hills, and as well as St. Katherine's, which was ii^ SL
John's parish, is supposed to have fallen to decay in the reign of
Henry VIII.
In this town was anciently a house belonging to the Kuight's
Z 2 Templars,
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340 ^ ftrTroLK.
Temphrt, and afterwards to the Hospitallers, endowed with s
eonsiderable estate in Donwieh aad the coDtigaous hamlels of
Westletoii and Dingle. To this ertablishment belonged a chureh
dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. John Baptist, hoik for the
me of the tenants of the uMtnor, whose houses were all distin*
guished by crosses, the badge of the Knights.
Here were also two monastic institutions, belonging to tbe
Franciscans and Dominicans, or Grey and Black Mars. Tbe
ftrst was founded by Richard Fitz-John, and AUce his wife, and
Ha rcTennes were afterwards augmented by Henry III. The area
encompassed by the walls of this house, which yet remain, is vp«
wards of scTen acres. Th^y had three gates; one of these, the
eastern, is demoliriied; but the arches of the other two, standing
close together to the westward, continue nearly entire. They
have nothing remarkable in their construction, but being orrered
with ivy, form a picturesque object The largest of these gates
aerved for the principal entrsace to the house, and the other led
to the church. A bam is the only bnitding now standing in tiiis
enclosure.
The monastery of the Black Friars was founded by Sir Roger
de Holish. In the eighth year of Richard II. the sea having
washed away the shore almost up to this house, some attompta
were made to remove the friars to Blithbnrgh. Tbey neverthdess
continued here till the dissolution, when the site of this house,
as well as that of the Grey Friars, was granted among other poa-
aessions to John Eyre. Both of these monastic establishmento
had handsome churches belonging to them.
Besides these religious edifices, Dunwich contained two hos-
pitals. St James's hospital, to which bel<mged a large, handsome
ehurch or chapel, was founded for a master, and several leprous
brethren and sisters, in the reign of Richard I. by Walter de
Riboff. By the generosity of the founder and other benelactMv,
this establishment enjoyed ample revenues, till several sordid
"blasters, for their private interest, alienated lands and other do-
nations, to the great detriment of the fraternity, who being thus
defrauded
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defrauded of their sabsistence gradually decreased^ and their edi-
fices fell into irreparable decay. Thus the large income of this
onee oelelmited hospital is now dwindled to a trifling wim, which
is ap^ed to the maintenance of a few indigent people, who reside
in a wfetched house, being all that is left of their original habitat
lion, except some remains of the church and chapel.
The other hospital, denominated Maison Dieu, or God's House^
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was, as early as tlie time of Henry
III. abandantly endowed with houses and lands, lor a master, six
baelhren, and several sisters. The revwues, reduced through
the same mismanagement as tliose of the hospital of St James,
to a mere trifle, are divided among a few poor people, who with
the master, reside in two old decayed houses, which, with a small
part of the church, are all that remains of this institutioii^
In former times a wood, called East Wood, or the King's Fo*
rest, extended several miles south-east of the town, but it has
been for many ages destroyed by the sea. The land must conae^
gently have stretched for oul;, and have formed the southern
boundary of the bay of Southwold, as Easton-ness did the north*
em. Weever says, that the men of Dunwich, requiring the aid
of William the Conqueror against the rage of the sea, affirmed
that it had devoured great part of the Forest ; and Gardner in*
forms us* that he had seen manuscripts mentioning that this mo^
narch gave permission to the Rouses of Baddingham, and other
gentlemen in the neighbourhood, to hunt and hawk in his forest
at Dunwioh. The same writer also reEktes, that in the furious ir^
ruption of the sea in 1739, its impetuosity exposed the roots of
a great number of trees once growing there, which appeared to
be the extremity of some wood, and was in all probability the
ancient forest. Contiguous to the latter was another wood, from
its relative situation denominated Westwood.
Hales WORTH is a well built town, situated near the river
Blith, which has been made navigable up to this place. It cou^i
tains 258 houses, aud 1^76 inhabitants, many of whom are em-
Z 3 ployed
* Historical Accoont of Ounwicb, &c. p.-38.
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948 00FFOLK.
ployed in spiniiing linen yarn, great qnantitieB of bemp being
grovn in the neigbbourhood. lU market is on Tbunday, and it
bas a yearly hir on the 29tb of October. Thoagh a place of
considerable antiquity, it contains nothing worthy of notice, ex*
cept a handsome Gothic church, and a charity-school. Sir Ro«
bert Bedingfield, who was lord«mayor of London, in 1707, was a
native of Haleswortb.
SooTHwoLD, anciently Sudwald, or Sauthwood, was probably
thus named irora a wood near it, as tbe western confines still re-
tain the appellation of WoodVend marshes, and Woods-end
creek. It is pleasantly situated on an eminence oTerlooking the
German Ocean, but nearly surrounded on every other side by the
river Blith, which here discharges itself into the sea. This town
was made corporate in 1489, by Henry VII. according to whose
charter, confirmed by seveial succeeding sovereigns, it is govern-
ed by two bailifli, a recorder, and twelve aldermen. In 1801 it
contained 206 houses, and 1054 inhabitants. The market on
Thursday is well attended, and there are two fiurs, on Trinity
Monday, and the 24th of August,
Though Soothwold is not of such high antiquity as Dunwich,
Blithburgh, and some other neighbouring places, yet the inha^
bitants were enabled, not only to enter into competition with those
towns, but in time to surpass them in navigation and traflic.
Alfric, Bishop of the East Angles, who possessed this lord-
ship, gave it, among other donations, to the abbey of Bury St,
Edmund's, by which it was' held as one manor for the victualling
of the monks. It had half, and a quarter of the other half of
the sea belonging to the manor, before the Conqueror's time pay-
ing 20,000 herrings; butafter the conquest, 25,000. From the di-
mensions of this manor given in Domesday survey, Gardner
calculates that the sea has since gained upon this coast one mile,
one furlon|2:, and nineteen perches.* In the 43d Henry III. the
manor of Southwold was exchanged, by Simon, abbot of Bury,
for other possessions, with Richard de Clare, Earl of Gloncestev,
who^
* His^ of Donwich, &c. p. 189, 190,
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liho, in the year following, obtained permission to convert his house
in this town into a castle.* By his son's wife, Joan of Acres,
daughter of Edward I. it was carried, on her second marriage,
into the family of Mounthermer, which had been invested with
the earldom of Gloucester and Hertford; but in 12th Edward IIL
some part of the manor was annexed to the priory at Wangford,
and is now held by the corporation of Southwold, of Lord Rous,
to whom the priory belongs.
In the 10th Henry IV. Southwold was exempted from the pay-
ment of any customs or tolls, for their small boats, passing in or
out of the river, or port of Dnnwich. King Henry VII. in con-
sideration of the industry and good services of the men of South-
wold, made the town a free burgh, or corporation, to be govern-
ed by two bailiffs, a recorder, and other inferior officers, to whom,
and the commonalty, he gave his lordship of the same, called
Queen's demesne revenues, and also the privilege of admiralty,
for the annual payment of 141. He moreover granted them ex-
emption from all dues and customs payable to Dunwicb, and con-
ferred on the town the rights of a haven, which probably caused
the denomination of the port of Dunwich to be changed to that
of Southwold. Henry VIIL not only confirmed all his father's
grants, but added to them many gifts, firanchises, and immunities.
These royal favors gave great encouragement to the trade and
navigation of the town, of which the fishery constituted no small
part ; being carried on by merchants, who annually fitted out nu-
merous vcssek, tradition says upwards of fifty, for taking cod and
other fish in the North Sea. The herring fishery off their own
coast was also highly conducive to the prosperity of the town.
Though Southwold was sensibly aflfected by the emancipation of
the country from the pi^al supremacy, still it retained an exten-
sive trade, and exceeded all the neighbouring towns in shipping
Z 4 and
• This structure is soppoted by Gardner, to have occupied the spot, where
in the seqoel Gu9man*t, or Siellman't stood ; many stones, some of ihero hewn
for arches, and other architectural remain?, having of late years, says that
vriteri been dug up in a garden there.
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844 wfwoix.
Mid commeroa. But ike gr«at9st calaiiiit;y ihal ^evar beM lUi
place, was on the 26th of April 1669, when a fire, whoae desftrvc-
tive fory was heightened by a vioieat wind, consnmed, in tha
apace of four hours, the town«hall, market-honae, market-plaesj
prison, granaries, shops, warehouses, and 238 dwfsUing hoaaes,
and other buildings. The greatest part of the moTeaUe goods,
nets and tackling of the inhabitants for their fishery, and all their
com, malt, barley, fish, coals, and other merchandize, werede-
atroyed in this conflagration, the total loss by which exceeded
40,0001. to the min of more than 300 families. By this disaster^
many substantial persons were obliged to seek habitations else->
where, so that the town never recovered its former importance ei-
ther in trade or buildings. All the conrt-baron rcdls were de*
atroyed on this occasion, in consequence of which, all tf^ QiVT*
holders of the corporation are become freeholders.
About the middle of the last century, the commerce qf tU$
place received a fresh impulse. The entrance to the bayeB^
which is on the south side of the town, was anbject to be choked
up, till an act of parliament was obtained fiyr repairing and i^i-
proving it. Accordingly, one pier was erected on the nerth side
of the port in 1749, and another on the south in 1752. The es*
tablisbment of the Free British Fishery, in 1760, also oMitribiited
greatly to the prosperity of the town, where two docks were oon-
atnicted, and various buildings erected fiv the making and
tanning of nets, and for the depositing of stores. As the beach
at Soulhwold partakes of the advantages enjoyed by other towns
on this coast for sea-bathing, it has of late years derived some
benefit from the strangers who resort thither during the summa
season for that purpose, and for whose accommodation two conve-
nient machines are kept in the town.
The first chapel here was probably built in the reign of King
John, by the prior and monks of Thetford, who, in right of their
cell at Wangford, were patrons of the church of Rissemere, or
Reydou, to which Southwold was only a hamlet^ and to which
the inhabitants of this town were still obliged to resort in order to
6 receive
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Wf90UL
mem flie jMcnments, as also for the perfbrmance of the i
Tiage and fiuieral ceremonies, and divine aenrice on particalar
fcitijraiB. This chapel was destroyed by fire aboat 230 yean after
Its ereetiAli* The present edifice dedicated to St. Edmnnd is sup-
posed to hi^e been coHMneoced aoon after the destraction of the
old one. The exterior was apparently finished about 1460^ as
the legacies after that time are chiefly for the inside work. This
second chapei was made parochial^ and in 1751, being endowed
with 4001. giyep by the governors of Qneen Anne's boonty, and
the like som raised by public contributions, it was separated firoa
Jfteydon, and made a distinct curacy, to which Lord Rous, as pa-
tion of Reydoa, has the nomination.
The total length of this fine fidiric is 143 feet 6 inches, and
|fae width 66 feet 2 inches, it has two aisles, which are sepa-
lated 'from the nave by seven arches, and six pillars of elegaal
workmanship. The tower steeple, about 100 foot in height, is a
fine piece of architecture, beautified with freestone intermixed
with flint of various colours. The porch, erected about thirty
years after the church, is highly ornamented ; over the entrance
is a vacant niche, which probably contained the l^tue of the pa-
tron saint, and it is decorated in various parts with Gothic let-
ters, similsf to tiiose of the inscHption upon the arch over the
great west window of the tower : sat bdmdnd. oaa. p. nobis,
aignifying Sancte Edmunde, ora pro nobis. Every letter is
adivned with a crown placed over it» and the whole is considered
an excellent performance. The north door has a niche on either
aide, with a figure in each, resembling an angel with prodigious
wings, in a kind of palpit, and his hands joined as if in the atti-
tude of prayer. The pillars supporting these niches rise from
grotesque heads. The mouldings between the receding arches of
all the doors, are ornamented with foliage, flowers, grotesque
lieada^ and figures;, as is also the fillet that runs round the
body of the church, above the windows. At each comer of
the east end of the chancel, is a low hexagonal tower, with
battlementSp
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348 BWfOhK.
batUemeaU, none of wbich are stiU decorated ivith' onutmental
erosses.
The interior of this edifice still indicates that it was ]f et more
highly ornamented than the exterior. It contained sereral
images; and the carved work of the rood-loft^ and seats of the
magistrates^ now somewhat dehced, originally bore a great re-
semblance to those in Henry the Seventh's chapel^ at Westmin*
ster. Every pew in the church was likewise decomted with re«
presentations of birds, beasts, satyrs, or human figures, which
have partaken of the same usage, except a few on the north side
of the north aisle, and others concealed by the folding doors
opening into the chancel. . The ceiling of the latter is hand-
aomely painted, as is likewise that over the screen in the nave.
'' On one side,'' says Gardner, " angels seemingly express much
joy, with part of the song of St. Nicetas, TV Deum Laudamms,
&0. On the other, answering thereto, is the historical rcfresent-
mtion of Zacharias's prophecy, Benedictus lyns, &c. The fironts
of the magistrates' seats are adorned widi gildings and paintings.
The skreen has iuthe north aisle, the emblematical figures of the
blessed Trinity in a Triangle ; next Gawhriel; after liiat the hier-
archy, Arkangeiui Potestates, Ihmmationes, Ckerebyn, Sera-
fyn. Thrones, Primcipatus, Virtutes, Angelusf in the south
aisle, Barush Pha, 0$e Pka, Naum Pka, Jeremias Pha, He«»
fya* Pha, Moytes Pha, Daniel Pha, Amos Pha, Isaias Pha,
Jonas Pha, Ezekias Pha. In the middle are the twelve apostles,
on the north side six, and as many on the south. Under them
are four impresaions of the angel, lion, ox, and eagle, represent-
ing Ezekiel's vision of the foar cherubim and evangelists. . Here
blind zeal, ignorant superstition, and obstinate bigotry, with
united force wrought their spite, by defacing, not only angels,
apostles, and prophets, but likewise extending their malice, by
breaking all the historical faces in the painted windows, and in
committiiig sacrilege by robbing the grave-stones of the brass-
plates, whiph bore monumental inscriptions to the memory of the
t
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AUFFOLK*
347
ieaA, and enunng others; wkence we may conclude, that the
paintings on the ceilings would haTe had no more fitvour shewn
thera^ if they had been as e&tsily come at.''*
Though ^outhwold contains many good houses, it has no other
building, except perhaps the GuHdhall, worthy of being parti-
cularized. On the clifis are two batteries, one of which is a re-
gular fortification, with a good parapet, and six guns ; the other *
has but two. On a hill called Eye-cliff, and several otliers situ-
ated near it, are to be seen the vestiges of an ancient encamp*
ment, and where the ground has not been broken up, are tokens
of circular tents, vulgarly denominated fkiry-hills. Gardner con-
jectures that this may have been a camp of the Danes, when they
invaded the country in 1010. i*
It baa been remarked, that at this town in particular, as at all
the places on this coast, the swallows commonly first land, on
their arrival in England, and hence also they take their dq»ar*
ture, on their return to warmer climates. " I was at this place
about the beginning of October,'' says the author of a tour
through Great Britain, { " and lodging in a house that looked in«
to the church-yard, I observed in the evening an unusual multi-
tude of swallows, sitting on the leads of the church, and cover*
ing the tops of several houses round about. This led me to en«
quire what was the meaning of such a prodigious number of swal-
lows sitting there. I was answered, that this was the season
when the swallows, their food fiiiling here, begin to leave us, and
return to the country, wherever it be, from whence they came ;
and that this being the nearest land to the opposite coast, and the
wind contrary, they were waitings for a gale, and might be said to
be wind-bound. This was more evident to me, when in the morn-
ing I found the wind had come about to the north-west in the
night, and there was not one swallow to be seen. This passing
and repassing of swallows is observed no where so much as on this
eastern coast, namely from above Harwich to Winterton-ness in
^forfolk. We know nothing of them any farther north ; the passage
of
f Qardoer't Donwicb, p. JOS, & t04. f l^id. p. 189, i Vol. t p. 189 .
i.
if
:
I.
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M8 BDFVOLK.
•f the tea being, as I nq>poae, toe bfoad from Fhttbortagh
Head, and the duve of Holdernew in Yoriwhire/*
SoHthufoldBay, commonly called Sole B^, is celehriM as Uie
theatre of a most obattnate and saogainary nayal engagement,
which took place, in 1672, between the combined fleet of Eng*
land and France, on one aide, and that of the Datoh on the other.
The former coosisted of 101 sail, thirty-five of which were French,
carrying 6018 guns, and 34^630 men. In this bay they were
lying on the d6th of May, when the Dutch fleet, composed of
ttinety^ne men of war, fifty-four fire ships, and twenty-three
tenders, commanded by the famous De Ruyter, bore down i^on
them so unexpectedly, that many of the ships were obliged to
cut their cables, that they might get out more expeditionsly> and
range themselves in order of battle. Bankert> who commanded
the van of the Dutch, commenced the attad^ on the white s^aa*
dron, under the French Admiral Count d' Etr^. The latter re*
eeived them with some appearance of eonragie, but soon aheeied
M, in conseqaenee, as it is generally belieYod, of secret ordeia
from his master not to expose Us ships too much, bat to leave
the English and Dutch to e&ct their mutual destruction. In
the mean time De Ruyter made a fiurioiis attack ou the Duke
of Yoric and the centre squadron, whik Van Ghent eogag>ed tho
Uue, under the Earl of Sandwich. The duke, after an obstanato
conflict of several hours with the Dutch commander, wss obliged
to shift his flag frmn the disabled state of his M^. The Earl
of Sandwich, in the Roysl James, of 100 guns, maintained a
most unequal conflict with Vsn Ghent's division. He was first
attacked by the Great fiollsnd, commanded by Captain Braakel,
and a fire-ship. Braakel, though of inferior force, yet depending
on the assistance of his countrymen, who had the advantage of
the wind, gnq»[ded the Royal James, and the eari being ill sup«
ported by the rest of his squadron, was almost entirely surrounded
by the enemy. Van Ghent wss soon killed, and his ship, being
much disabled, sheered off. Another Dutoh man of war, and
three fire-ships were sunk, and at length the earl succeeded in
dis*
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SUFFOLK.
949
dif engagtag hiauelf from Braakd's shif, aftar being gnqipled
vilh her an hoar aad a half, and reducing her to a mere wreck;
the captain himself being wounded, and two-thirds ef his men
killed.
The earl had now with unexampled intrepidity defended him*
self ftr fire hours, but disdaining to retieat, another Dutch fire
•hip approached under cover of the enemy's smoke, and boarded
the Royal James mi the q[uarter. The greater pari of her crew had
already fidlen, aad her hull waa so pierced with shot, that it wan
knpoasible to canry her oC In this condition, the earl begged his
Ci^tain Sir Richard Haddock, and all his servants to get into the
boat, and save themselves, which they did : but some of the
■ailora resolutely refuaing to quit their commander, remained on
board, and endeavoured, but in vain, to extinguish the flames.
The ship blew up about noon, off Easton Ness, and they thus
periahed together.
Van Ghent's division, thrown into confusion by the death of
their admiral, and the fiirious attack of part of the earPs squadron^
which anrived, but too late, to his assistance, was obliged to re*
treat, and withdrew for some time from the engagement Thu
aflbnded Sir Joseph Jordan, who had now succeeded to the com-
mand of the blue squadron, an opportunity of uniting with the
led, in order to assist the Duke of York, who, being deserted by
Ike French, had suffered considerably from the powerful attacka
•f the enemy's two divisions under De Ruyter and Bankert la
this conflict Cornelius Evertzen, Admiral of Zealand, was killed,
aad De Ruyter himself was wounded, and narrowly escaped being
baraed by the Englirii fire-ships. His ship was at length so
completely disabled, that she was obliged to be towed out of the
line; and it was with great difficulty that she afterwards reached
home. Van Ghent's squadron having by this time rallied, bore
down to the relief of thdr commanders, and thus saved them frt>m.
destmction. Towards night great havoc was made among the
Dutch fire-diips, five or mx of which were destroyed by one Eng-
lish man of war. The battle continued till nine at night, when
the
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860 SOFFOtK.
the Dutch vessels being dreadfully shattered, were obfiged ta fe«
treat, and the English having suffered in an equal degree, were iv
no condition to pursue them*
In this sanguinary contest the Dutch lost only three ships of
war, one of which was burned, another sunk, and a third taken*
Their loss in men is supposed to have been very great, as the
publication of it was forbidden by the States. Considering the
disparity of force after the defection of the French, it cannot ap*
pear surprising, that our fleet should have suffered still more
severely. Two English ships were burned, three sunk, and one
taken; and yJx>ut 2000 men were killed and wounded. Among
the formefwer^ rear-admiral Sir Fratcheville Mollis, in the Cam-
bridge; Captain Digby, of the Henry; Captain Percy, of the St.
George; Captain Waterworth, of the Anne ; Sir John Fox, of the
Prince; Captain Harman, of the Triumph; Lord Maidstone, Sir
Philip Cartwright, Sir Charles Harbord, and many other persona
of disti^ctioil. But the ikte of the gallant Earl of Sandwich
was particularly regretted. The day before tiie engagementy
while the fleet was riding in the Bay, the earl, apprehensive
of being surprised by the Dutch, had advised that it should
weigh anchor, and get out to ^a. The Duke of Yoric, however,
not only rejected this advice, but even told the earl that it wask
the result of fear, which is supposed by some to have made S9
de^ an impression on the mind of the noble admiral, as to ren-
der him careless of life. Agreeably te this idea, it is related,,
that when his ship was on fire,- the earl retired to his cabin,
whither he was followed by his captain. Sir Richard Haddock,
who, finding him with a handkerchief before his eyes, informed
him of his danger, to which he replied, ** he saw how things
went, and was resolved to perish with the ship." This is evi-
dently a diiierent account of the circumstance related by Camp-^
bell, who observes, that " he might have been relieved in his
distress by Vice- Admiral Sir Joseph Jordan, if that. gentleman
had not been more solicitous about assisting the duke. When^
therefure, he sa^ hipi sail by, heedless of the condition in whiok^
he
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SI7F7<^L8. 851
Ik lay, lie laid to those abcMit him ; * Th^e is Bothbg left for
»aaK.>nft to defisMl the ship to tte fiwt mui ;' and. thoMrtii«t
Icnew liim readily understood^ that, by the last man, he meant
hiao^.^^ This representation certainly places the matter in a
'TCTy £foent li^ht; and thongh it is evident, that the earl
m^jlil have escaped with the captain and others, yet the eharac*
ter whkh he onilbiinly exhibited, does not justify the idea, that
he irooUL ivuitimly sacrifice a life so nsefiil to his country. The
cestificate d* lus Inneral presenred amon^ the archives of the
BeiaUi' Cfdkge, has been adduced to corroborate a contrary opi*
skm* It IS there stated^ Uiat " he staid in his ship till the last,
vbot he was forced to put himself to the mercy of the sea, is
vhich Le perished.^' His body was taken up a few days after*
wsr^ fay one of the king's ketches, and being known by tlie
G^flvge which he had on, was carried to Harwich, whence it was
nomvedy and solemnly interred in Westminster Abbey.
The i^ench, notwithstanding the little share they .had in the
ai|;^^ment, lost two ships, one of which was burned, and the
etiier BudL , and among the killed was their rear-admiral, M. de hi
Babini^ze.
BtNAC&K was> in the Idth and 16th century, the lordship and
demesne of the noble &mily of Dacres. ^ It is now the property
^ Sir Thomas Gooch, Bart, who resides in the spacious mansion^
called Benacre HalL ^
In 1786, one of the workmen emplc^ed in making a new
tumpike-foad at this place, struck his pick-axe against a stone
bottie, containing npwards of nine hundred pieces of siher coin>
in gi^neral in good preservation; but none older than the time of
Fespssian. They were all about the size of a sixpence, nine of
than weighing^ an ounce. Near seven hundred were purchased by
Sir Thomas Gooch ; others were bought by different persons, and
the remainder sold to a Jew, who retailed them at a low price is
the neighbourhood.
Blithburgh, situated on the river Blith, gives name to thia
hutidred^ and though ujqw a mean village, was formerly a flourish-
inff
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992 MVFOIS.
ing place. Its origin is Qneeitain, bat it is yery phimbly
jsctnred to b* of Ufeh aatifuly, 86v«tsl urns and HbdU
haying been disoovaed here. It was enee the raidenee
ehants, and nrach Drefaenled on-aeooiwC'^ fts trade,
the fishery, which it posaeised hefin% ^e rivor w4i.
Here was the jaH for the divttiott'tff B^ccfea; Mm
the sessions for thttt division were formerly hiML
n weekly maikeft^ and two annual fhtrs, one ofwMj
toins, on the dth of AprO, bat the market hid tUfaf
teeedent to the birth of flie oldest inhsMtttift
After tiie soppression of tte priory of BliMW||
to deoay^ and oontinned gmdoaHy to dedine fill' 1990^
svstatned a hws by fire, to lAe eoiif^oied asMMitflof
which aome of the inhribitaifa b^ otaddh, ant
tte ftilnre of trade, not thbdung ii wordi whill^b
houses, settled elsewhere ; and 'fik^'^e* place w#
poverty. InlSOl, iteont8tnedd4hoH|es^itthaiAslby
The church, a carious bntlding, and oTconBidAtfle:
is 127 feet in length, and fifty-four feet two inches wlie.
windows are very numerous, and were once extremely 1
tt the remains of the painted glass which adorned them seem 1
cate. This edifice now presents a spect»e(e that cannot fkil 1
cite the indignation of every adnurer of antiquities. It 1
highly ornamented both within and wfthout Externally
beautiAit trao^ of the windows' hhs* been retnoved, or
destroyed, by the hand of time, sad its plaee has been sup
with unsightly niasses igtlffiiA, iiT one or two instanceilf <
surrounded with glass. The chasms in the painted ghss cf thesV
windows have in like manner been supplSeil with bridk^aiilt mcf^
tmr. Internally the fine carved work has been coveted w|^ m
coat of white- wash, and the carvings on the roof, i iniiilBt||| nf
angeb bearing shields, on which are painted the arms UflllS^
beoefilcters to the church, are in such a decayed conditioil as to
bo osotimially (ailing. Upon the ceiling of the church was fiur*
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lAeiiy theBcnlptnred figure of a man^ in a sitting attitode^ of
which both Kirby * and Gardner f have giren a representation ;
and round it a label, with this inscription : Oraie pro diabz Jokne
Maim et Kaierme uxoris eiu. This fignre, as also that upon
the chancel, mentioned by the same writers, and conjectured by
Gardner to be intended few King Henry VI. J hte been re-
moved, and together with the fragments of the tracery taken
horn the windows, thrown info a promiseaons heap in tha
chureh-yard. The porch is stiU decorated with grotesque
headsi and at each comer stands an angel with expanded
wings. Upon the chancel, not iar from ^e foundation, are ele-
ven antique letters with a crowtt above each, resembling in
^ery respect those over one of the windows of Southwold church ;
and, doubtless, originally forming an inscription of a similar iffl<*
port
This fabric, from the architecture, does not appear to be so
ancient as some have imagined. Several letters and emblemati-
cal figures upon it corresponding with others at 8outhwold,
Walberswick, and Covehithe churches, would encourage the in-
ference that it is coeVal with those structmres whose foundation
was not antecedent to the fifteenth century. The chancel was
probably buih after 1442, when John Greyae, by will, left twenty
marks towacds rebuilding it, in words which shew ^t it was
not then begun. Several other bequests towards it occur down to
the year 1473, at which time, or soon after, it was most likely
finished. The similarity of the workmanship of the dianeel to
that of the church warrants the coodusion, that it cannot hare
been of much later erection. The tower, which fiiirmerly had a
spire, is of inferior workmanship to the diurch and chancel, attd
Vol. XIV. 2 A
« mttor^ Ace. if Twehe PrinU, p. tS.
t UUtor. Jec« rfJhtnwiehf &e. p. ISS.
t A writer in the OmflMMA't Maganmt for September leOS, p. Tf6, onder
the tignatttreol D. Devb, nyt that this figera was intended ior » represented'
lion of the ^riaitj.
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iMreftre ttongbt to be nia<;h older; but H we» probtUy rapeiretf
and e9vered with lead wheo the cbwrtk was rebuilt
There WM a chafela^ the ^ end of ike aouth aisle dedicated
tp the pleased Virgin, and aa^er at the end of the north aisle
d^icated tdi her ini>ther« Qt AfmOi. By old wiU^ it alio appear^
that, prior to the Reformfitioo, tl^f cburch eontained a jpreat Bam-
her of iaug«u as that of the I{o|; Tfiaity on th^ north sid^ of
the high altar, the us^^ plaq^ for the, principal image, or that of
the saint to vr)^om th/^ churph w^a d^cated; the images <if St
Mary and St Anp,e, in their cbi^^ vhere tbey probably had
altari likewise s thi^ ii^^ag^ of St Si^mnnd, St Erai^mnar aid
St Katherine; ajad perbw^ othc^^ at lemt in the painted giaaa
of t^ wiadowa; for Bobf^ Pinne^ in his will dated 1497, ordered
bjui exfiCBjUNTs to glaae a window on the north side of tbe ckmch,
and to paint it with the history of St Andrew.
By letters patenV 4^ ^^ ^^ ^^ year of Henry VI. lioenee
was gji?^ to John Hf^tpp, Esq. tp found and endow a chantry at
Blithbargb, to the honoi^ of St Margaret the Virgin, by the ap-
pellation of IJoptoii's Chai^tryi for ope chaplain to celebrate mass
for the welfare of the fol^ldeca and bene^tors while living, and
after their deceafM fo|! tl^. he^ of th^ sonls} hot it is oncertain
whether it was actj^aUy foliated or not* as no n^ention is made of it
at thy^ diaaolotioQ.
At the east end of the nqrth aisle, is shewn a tomb, said to
be thai of Anaa^ King o( the ijaat A^l^» aiid in the cbanoel
unothfir for his son Firmiaiis, who bot^ fell in battle with Penda,
King of Mereia, ii^ 6^^a^d arere first interned in thia place,
wbc^^ce th^ refnuMia wer^ afterwarda removed to St Edmnnd's
Bury, Gardaer ooiyectures^ that the latter monument may be
tba tiomb of Sir John Hopton, and that the former might have
been erected before the rebuilding of the church, for one of the
Swillington's, lords of Blithburgh. He forther observes, that
near the south porch is a black marble stone, narrower at one end
than at the other, that seems to have been carved on the side with
a moulding.
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tfVFFOLK*
t m(mldiigr» «ni raised iii tiie middle^ «md wbioh nigbt ^perlapft
hftYd Wft thft otfferiiig of King Aninu
The upper itone of Hie teub, wbich coumoii report aitigiiB to
thftt HMmtreh, liM been Itokeii into three pieees, the middle one
ef iMch hi hMft, attd the interior now serres as a leceptade ht
itfh end dirt tf pen the aftar moniittent, is the ehanoel, hate
been raiArf tiTb or three dnmsy sqnare oolnmnt of farid^, which
has eeeasiemed the remark, that the pereon whom it covers, wbiA*^
ever he might have been hi hit life-time, is m>w onqnestionably a
ton sappofter of the chinch.
titthe hoiii of ft6 peWs, near the litter tomb, are small figoree,
eighteen in miknbar, representing the Apostles skid other chamo-
ters of Seriptore ; and at the west ^ of the middle aisle U the
figure of a man, which used to strike time on a bell, now cracked,
in the same manner as those at St Dmistatt*8, in Lqmlon.
Stow gives, in his annals, an account of a terrible thunder.
etMm, which happened here on Sunday, the 4th of August, 167T,
during divine serfice, when the lightning did great damage to
the church, struck down upwards of twenty people, '* who were
IbaDd grevellii^ hidf an hour after/' Of these a man and a boy
were dead, and ^ others scorched. Blithburgh Register fiKT*
Iher mentionB, that the apire part of the steeple wsb thrown
down, and the standing remains greatly rent and torn by the
tempest, whidh took its course to Bungay, where it did much m\sh
ehief.
Not fiur from the church are some remains overgrown with ivy,
of a small priol^ of ftlack Canons, <a Prmmonstrantenses. The
revenues of the church of Blithburgh being given by King Henry
I. to the abbot and convent of St. Osith, in Essex, they probably
founded this piory soon afterwards, as a daughter-house, but not
as a cell to that abbey, according to the assertion of most writers.
The revenues of this priory were not only valued separately from
those of the abbey, but the prior and convent of Blithburgh pre-
sented to their own livings, and seemed in all other respects an
independent body, except that the abbot and convent of St Osith
2 A 2 nominated
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noniittfttod the prior. Weever makes Henry I. the foaiMler •£ ihim
house, and Richard Beauveys, Bishop of Londmi^- so gmt a h0>
.ne£u9lor, as to be esteemed a eo-fomider. In this, howerer, he
seems to be mistaken^ for if it had been fimnded by the king, tfa«
patronage of the priory would have been in the crown, whi«k
it manifestly was not; and if the bishop had been so great ^m
hekiefiictor, some notice would haye been taken of the 'ciream-
stance, either by Godwyn, Wharton, or Newconrt, who wrote him
life; and who all n^ention his founding the Abbey of St Ositk.
The lords of the hundred of Blithing seem mnch more likely to ^
have been its principal bene&ctors, for upi^n every vacaney^thej
presented the person nominated by the abbot and- convent of
St Osith as prior of Blithburgh, to the Bishop of Norwich, to
be instituted into that office.
In 1528, Cardinal Wokey obtained a ball for suppressmg this^
among other small religious houses, and applying its ravenaeo
.towards the endowment of his collie at Ipswich, provided the
king should grant his consent ; but by some means or other bin
design was frustrated as to this house, which continued till the
general suppression, 26 Henry YIII. when it contained no more
than five religious, and its annual revenues were valued ai
481. 8s. lOd. In the 30th year of the same reign, the site of it»
with other possessions of the priory, was granted to Sir Arthur
Hopton, Lord of the Manor. Tanner * says, that Sir Richard
Gipps, in his Suffolk Collections, speaks of a register of this pri«-
ory in Gresham College library.
On the north side of the main street also stood another religions
edifice, called Holy Rood chapel, some remains of which were
standing, when Gardner wrote f.
• To the sooth-east of Blithburgh formerly grew West Wood,
which, in process of time, was converted into a park, and received
the name of the Grove. Hera stood the mansion-house of the
lords
* Noit 10 BUihburgb, in hu NotiL MmwU,
t Hm. of Dnnw. p. 150.
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SITFFOLK.
857
kttds^f ttettanor. ' The andent holt having, as is conjectundy
fii^m Tanoiw vetiea Ibimd on the spot, heen destroyed hy -firei
liie present edifice^ called Westwoad Lodge, commanding a
pleasant sea view, was erected about the middle of the 17th een-
tary, hy John Brooke, Esq. From the Brookes it descended to
the family of Blois, and is now Hie property of Sir Charlea
Moift^ Bait, bnt in the occupation of Mr. Howiett^ whose fiorm
llere, consisting of 3000 acres^ is pronounced by Mr. Young, to
fee' without exception the finest in the county.*
' The manor of BftAMFiELD formerly constituted part of the en-
diwiment ef the college of Mettingham, built by order of John de
Ncvwich, who Uved in the reign of Edward III. At the disso*
hitioa it was granted to Thomas Denney, but has long been Test-
ed in the recently ennobled &mily of Rous,, of Henham.
In jtiie chancel of the parish church is an elegant monument
erected to tiie memory of Arthur, third son of the celebrated
lawyer Sir Edward Coke; and on the pavement are many black
marble stones, for the two ancient families of Rabbet and Nelson,
The estate of the former is now vested in Reginald Rabbet, who
residea in Bramfietd Hall, a fine old'mansion, situated near the
church. About a mile distant was another old seat, which for*
mcrly hekmged to Thomas Neale, Esq. hut was afterwards con*
verted nto a farm-house. That gentleman, by his will, directed
an alms-house to be built and endowed here, for four single per*
s<ms, who have each a room, and about a rood of land ; and one
of them receives an additional allowance of three pounds per an*
nnm, for teaching six poor children to read. The widow of Mr.
Neale, who after his death married John Fowie, Esq. left an es«
tate at Metfield, of the yearly value of about ten pounds, to keep
these alms-houses in repair, and for the instruction of six more
childien.
Bl7Li/»CA]iP, originally Bald^amp, which signifies a bold fight-
ing hand to hand, is thought to have received its appellation from
the obstinate engagement in 654, between the Mercians and East
i^ A 3 Angles
• Agric. of Soff. p. 13.
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MS svfrou.
AaglM, uiwUch t)ieUtt«r wm lotaUj defe^M* wHlkfl^tlm
nf tkeir kii^ Amia, and bis eldest sen FiraiMiili. TUi fofyfsf
tore is strea^eHed by a inditioB oureat ip ^f mrigbbo^MMA
tbat tbe uaforUuMite noaarcb was killed ia BuQcmp %iil» ffr
Weed, as well as by the proximity of BUthbufgb* tbe flaesil
bis iffst iBtenaent to the field of battle.
On arising gronad in this parish, stands tbebowe of indvl^
for tbe bondred of Blithing, iacorporated in 17Q4' IV pun
borrowed for the erection of this edifice was l%fi99L Mf ef
wUeh WIS paid off in 1780, and tbe renmder in 17(a< At^
first incorporation of the hundred, ecmtaimng fiirty^sis |iariffb«b
the annual average of tbe poor8'*ralea was not ahofo ea^ ibiHiiK
in tbe ponnd, and this rate wv diminished oi tb« payiDfl9t#C
half the debt in 1780. Tbe nvinher of poor in tbe boiMe anmiqli
toabont250insHmaer, and dOQ in winter. ThsSratf ft^pWyed
ia waaahrtares of woollen and linen for tbe nee of tbo bogfo^ «i
abo in soaking aU their own sboo^, slookiog^^ omI deAes^ Ut
nen is made here op to tbe ^ahie ot three sbilliiifa ^ mttms^
a yard.
CovnaiTHE was anciently tbe estate el a tesdly mmA C«M^
In ia08, John de Cove, and Eve has wift, bad aehnrter^ i«9
w^ren ia their lands here, and ia IdSS obtaiMd the fianJI of ai Imt
al this pl^ee. It was once a considnrahle fisUag lewa, and b$4a
ttoUe cbureb which has been safiered to fidl to nio, tbo OQirtb w^
only being preserved and inclosed for. divine aewioiu
Covebitbe was the birth plaoe of Joan Bai^b, a mtei of tbo
Mth century, aothor of a work of eonsiderable biboui i^ mtr.
dition, intituled Dc S4riptarihus BriUmnicu. He was bora l9
1496, and after having been educated at le«as Colkge, Cam*
bridge, became a Canaelite Mur at Norwich. Having mabiaeed
the doctrines of the Reformation, he was exposed to the par*
secution of the Catholic dergy, against whom be was pioleqlted
by Cromwe]l,£arl of 6#sex, On tite death of that stojteomwi bo
was obliged to take refqge in the Netherlands, wber^i bfi fMaiafid
UU the accession of Edward VL by whom be was advanced to the
bisboprio
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Uihopri^ of OiBory in Irelaal Tto pn^ewwrt ^« «»Joy«* >"»*
a short tine: on the king's d^ath he was agun ol>!iged to learn
Ilis country, end resided in Svitterfend daring Queen Msrj's
reign. Retnming to England, sdon after Elizabeth ascended the
Umae, he obtained a prebend in the cathedral of Canterbury,
hot could never reeorer his bishoi^c. He fied in November lfi63»
At Darsham is DarAam HaH, a seat of Lord Rons.
EiisToif Batent, though now ahkosi entirely washed away
by the ocean, seems ibrmeriy to hare been a place of some con-
sequence. Inttereignof Edwaidl.ftwast^kldshfpof The*
mas de Barent, one of whose desc«ndairts, i^ the 4th Edwaird lO.
obtained a grant lor a weekly market here, and a ycarfy Ito, on
the ere, day, and m6rroW of Ae fdlst of St. Wtholas. Besiden
fte parish chtoch, which WW standSng ita 10«, H had a efaapd
dedicated to St Margaret
In this parish was die pmmontory knbwn by the nam* cf Eas-
ton-ness, the extensio, or Ei}oxiJ of the ancient geographers, and
which, before it wiw overwhelmed by the ocean, was the easteru-
motft point of the English coast
FoBDLEY. The church of this village has long been in rains.
ft stood in the same church-yard with Middleton church, and so
near to the latter, thi^ in 1620 complaint was made to the bisbop
of Norwich, that when service did not begin and end at Both
churches eiacUy at the same time, the bells and steeple of one
disturbed the congregation of the other. To remedy this ihcbh-
venience^ the bishop directed that the same minister should serve
both, and officiate in them alternately. It was probably for this
reason that Fordley church, which was but a small building, was
auflered to go to decay.
At Henhah is the elegant mansion, and extensive park, of
Lord Rous, whose family has resided at this place near three hun-
dred years* In 1660, John Rous, Esq. was created a baronet ;
and b 1796 the present proprietor of Henham was elevated to
the peerage by the title of Baron Rous of Dennington. The
hous^ is of modern erection, having been built after the deslmc-
tioA
Mil
if*
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tion of the old manBioa by fire, in May 1773; the i^ot on mhuk -
oecosioQ was estimated at dO^OOOL
HuNTiNOFiBLD was, for a oonaideraUe tune after the Nonnaa
conquest, the estat^ aad residence of an etninent family of that
name, one of whom founded Mendham priory in St^hen^s reign.
It afterwards descended to the de la Poles, Earls of Suffolk, and/
in the time of Queen Elizabeth, was the property of Henry, Lord
Honsdon. It was ne&t the estate of that great oracle of the law.
Sir Edward Coke, by whose descendant, the Earl of Leicester, it
was sold to Sir Joshua Vanneck, father of the present proprietor,
who, in 1796, was created Baron Hnntingfield of Heveoingham.
Htvenmgham HaU, the magnificent residence of this noble-
man, is justly considered one of the finest seats in the county.
It is of modem erection, having been begun about the year 1778
by the late Sir Gerard Vanneck, the elder brother and predeces-
sor of the present owner, from the designs of Sir Robert Taylor;
but finished by Mr, James Wyatt. The west end, erected by the
latter, is in a much more tasteful style than the other parts of
the edifice. The front, about two hundi'ed feet in lengtl^ is
adorned with Corinthian columns, and otherwise chastely orna-
mented. The whole building is covered with a composition which
has the appearance of very white free-stone. Seated on a rising
gcoundi this mansion appears to great advantage firom various
parts of the extensive park^ which abounds in fine plantations,
and is diversified by a noble piece of water in front of the
house. The avenue that conducts to it from the porter's lodge
is of great length ^nd uncommon beauty. The interior of this
superb edifice, is embellished by an extremely valuable coUectiou
of pictures, chiefly of the Dutch and Flemish masters.
At the old mansion, when in the possession of Lord Hunsdon,
Queen Elizabeth is said to have been entertained by that nobler
man, and to have enjoyed the pleasures of th^ chase in a kind of
rural majesty. The approach to it was over an arm of the river
Blithe, which waters the park, and through tlucee sq^uare courts.
A gallery was continu^ the whole length of the building, and
opening
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•OffVOLlC.
set
^penipt «|K>D i^ baleony f^er the porch, gmf e «ir Mr cf graiidear,
wUh loiiie iwiety to the front. The great hall ^raa bvilt roand
six straight, maatfy oaka^ which mginally vfhM thereof asth^
^em : apon theae, thefoiesteraand yeomen of the guard aaed to
Ittog their nets, croaa-bowa, hanting-polea^ and other implemeiita
of the chaae. Id; littler years, the roots being decayed, the
ahafta irpre saiwii off at the bottom, and supported either by irre*
g^lor legs of wood, or by masonry ; and part of the long gal-
lety, where the qteeii and her attendants used to diFort them-
sebes, was converted into a cheese-chamber. Elizabeth is report-
ed to baTe been much pleased with the r^irement of this park»
fflled with tall and maeay timber treea, but particularly with an
oak which ever afterwards bore the appellation of the Queen^s
Oak. It stood abont two bow-ahots from the old romantio hall,
aad at the height of seven feet froib the ground measured near
eleven yaida in circnmference. To judge from the condition of
other treea ^ the aame qpedes, whose ages are supposed to be
pielty aeenratdly aacertained from historical circumstances, this
venerable monarch of the forest could not be less than five or six
bttndced yeara old. Traditioii reoards, that Elisabeth, from thia
favonrite tree^ahot a book with her owk hand. By a person who
e^amifted tte qneen's oak about twenty or thirty years ago, its
state at that tame is thua desmbed :-*^' It is still in some degree
of vigour, though most of its boughs are broken off, and those
wteh remain are approaching to a total decay, as weH as its vast
trunk. The principal arm, ' now bald with dry antiquity,' shoots
np to a great height above the leafrge, and being hollow, and
truncated at top, with several cracks, resembling loop-holes,
tfafoi^h which the light shines into its cavity, it givea na an idea
of the winding stair-case in a lofty Gothic tower, which, detach-
ed from the ruins of some veneraUe pile, hangs tottering to its
fyU, and affects the mind of the beholder after the same nmnner
by ite greatness and sublimity.''
The present noble proprietor of Heveningham has ornamented
tb0. whole (sonntry round his splendid residence with plantationa
of
i 1.
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dm MVrOLK.
•r oiks^ \mtkm, f^mmu, nd other fUkm, mlMh mUmmM
is pirtiotfatily fiiVMilde, wiH, at mwerf dMini f«tM> ptort*
treirare to the {mWo as wdl w to W ow^ luaXtf.
].Bi8Ti>x M vemaricabto fir Ibo fiwM oi itt iMity ef F^
.teMiMi M&oM, dadkatoAto tha Blaaaad Viffto. fka afigifeal
iMose^pkoeA ahavt a nik naafer to the Malhaalhe fmmmi mna^
waalHuttaiid endowed ahoiiltiie>«arll8il9Randpiid«GlaBf^
wbe gave to it Ike manor ef Laiaton, eoafctred oa him hj Umurf
IL and alao etrtotn chimdna, wMek he had heiore gimi to ttia
cMooa of the priory feuded byhunat Bmtley, alidb iM^ thiy
rtaiigiied in fiivoar ef thia aoaaatoiy. The ateaHiett of «hb iaii
heiMe being fcandhoth mmhalcaaaie and ttaoeavaniem Boherlde
Ufford» Eari ef Saftik, about the year 1»S| bum an abbeyea
the site of the mina that yetesiat, Thia edSdee vaa deeMydd
by fire befeie 186§; bat being rebniit» iteontianed to floaririi m
the genead diaaotottoa, nhat it eoataiiMd flItoannMnka, aadito
aanaal revennea were, aeoofdinf to Weet«r*a ebanhraliett^ fer n*«
der-rated at 181L 17a. IH Theold henae, hfffvm, waanelto^
tally abandoned, aone OMnka fanHdning to il, aeeMttif to Tan-,
ner, till the avppieaaion, and togadea being, aa he aaya, M to
Oar Lady of the Old Abbey, in wiUa preaerred in theofieeeflhe
aichdeaoan of Snialk, aototeaaMllandMML CUterA.9.
l»l in Ckrameom Bmdef, ia the feitowingf paaaage I4nch eeftw#
beiateathia aUtenMOt: ''John GfOne, leltofiiaUng hik Obbaein
bychoie^ waa eonaeewted an naaborito at the tkwfd of Si. Ifa-
ty, intheoldnMnaaleiyMnrtheaoa."
Grant p«rtef the diord^ aoTend aahtartluioona ehaprfi, mul
vartana eficea of the awnaalery aiB aliil alMding, andifplini to
the imrpeaea of bama and gmariea. The leagAef Ihe^
waaahont 66yar^; and the bnadth of Ike niUdk date,
yarda. It appean to haire bean a handMnw atmOtare, deeonitod
mth emaannto, foraMd by an totermiwtare ef bkoh M|Hared flinto
aiidfreeatone. In the walla of th^dnreh and other hiddtogn era
laany brieha eta fine diftrentfranithoaa need mpreaent. being
Mch thinmr mpwfMrthin to tiioir length and breadth. Near
the
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Urn wpl Ml* * «mI1 tower tmikfiy of hmk^ ffokiibly «ifoM
about th« tine of Henry VII. wm of tte onwiBto of vlikb
^^leor to liate beeu formed in nuwld^. The interior eeens to have
Iwen eadreme^ pinin ^ vitbont ornament^ loid the colnmae yel
femaining nr^ ?ery naaHTa In the memory of penom yeiliTim^
» fast eitoni of the neighboring iwd me indooed with mlh,
fiobohly thoee which miionnded the gronnds belonging to lUa
entnhliahment^ hot they haye been denoliahed iof the aake of the
material Theae nuoa beifng to the Hon, Joahna Vannock, eon
«f liud Hnntingfieid, who roaidea near the apo^ and they are at
ivaaant oecnpaad by llr« JeaMfk
|lSYiioii» a yillagtt bordering weetward ^ SontkwoU, waa loc«
marly a phee of importoMo^ and had n market and n park* The
Imllin the ktter waa takei^ dotwn in ICiM. The clmreh* »b or*
dinary edifiee of one aisle, appeara to be of gveatantifnity. It ia
JHtcMcd to St MaigawC «d waa the moljiar dmreh to Soath-
moH. Thifliplaee had alao %chapel» which iaanfpoaed to hnve
atood about a mile eaatwaad of the ehuKh^ on m apet aliU dem>-
yraiatod the Ch^pdi Piece. Heietoo« on a hranoh of the Blith,
ealled Wooden End credL, are aome veatigea of a whaH^ which
grohably (eU todecay ia ttie tin^ of King Henry III. in eonse-
4piB«o ^f the riaing proapevij^ of the neighhoong town of Sonth^
m^Ul Qa UMftaaaM bcanch of the river, about a mile and n half
a^KOthon^ fnay» hnilt i» 1737 by Sir Johft Pli^ptaf^ atood
WobiiyBridgv^ fopwtod^in 1747«by8ifJohnIU«a,Bwt.intoa
akuea for draining the low landa abow i^ whiak were betMO anh*
jfKttobe overibwodbg^high tidea. Beapeetiag^ the origin of
thrabndg^. traditienraportpf, thatCaidimd Wob^, whena lad«
9fKMa^ Ua ftther, a hotoher, to drive caMe from theae parto to
Ipawich^andhavingobaerrodonthediftrontdiitaneaa of oroeaing,
ipd making the cimiii <^ the wmefc to Blilhbnigh» dedaopd^ that
•f ever hia pniae were adoy ato to hie mind, h^ wonidaeeommQ-
ditfp tot^faOem. with the ahortoatpaaaage. Aeooidtogly, ia pro*
Wfaa-^ thae he waa aa good aa hia word, making canaewaya to
and
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M4 80FV0LX.
wA from tiie chsmiel, over wUch Ue erected a bridge tbtt after*
wards bore the name of the foimder.*
RuMBUROH is a place of no note except for a Benedictine mo>»
natte^, feanded soon after the Norman Conquest by J^tephen,
Earl of Brittany,. and given as a cell to the abbey of St. Mary at
Yotk. At the general suppression it vas granted to Cardinri
Woliey. t The remains of this edifioe have been eonrerted infes
a (lurm-honse, which belongs to Mr. Jessop of Leiston Abbey. -^
At SiBTON was also a monastic establishment of tiie Cistereiali
order, fi>Bnded abont the yesr lldO, by William de Casineto, er
Cheney, and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. Thb hoase was
so amply endowed that its revenues were valued at 8501. 15s. TJd.
per annum, and were granted by the abbot and convent thesDselves
to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, AaMiony Rouse, Esq. and Nicholas
Hare, Gent in 1636.
Thorihoton was formerly Hie lordship and demesne of Wal-
ler de Norwich, and afterwards of the Uflfords and the C<Ae8'.
Alexander Benoe, Esq. to whose family it for sometime belonged,
fixed his residence at the HM^ which is now the seat of George
Golding, Esq.
Walberswick, commonly called Walderswkk, now a hamlet
of Blithburgh, a place of great antiquity, was once a oonsideii>
able and populous town. It carried on an extensive commeron
both by land and sea, especially in fish ; having, in 1461, thvteett
baf ks trading to Iceland, Ferro, and the North^ Seas, and twenty-
two fishing boats employed ofi^ this coast. The alteration of tiie
port which ruined the' town of Dunwich, proved a source of inw
creased prosperity to Walberswick, which continued to thrive tiH
the middle of the sixteenth century, when the alteration. made in
the established religion, proved highly detrimental to this, as
well ss to many other towns oB the coast, whose principal support
was derived from the fishery. * From that time this village began
gradually to decline, and repeated and destructive confiagrations
* Gftrdnei's Dnnwich, &c p. S57.
t Dogdale hu erroneously placed this ooavent in Cambridgeahir*.
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kstened ita rain. Before the year 1583^ Wtlbenwidc eeftma
sererdy by fire; in 1633, great pari ef the' toivn iras borae^;
in 1683 it vaa again Tiaited by a Vke seouige, and in 1719 ahoat
ene third tA the amall remains of ike place was conmiBed. Thia
bal aoetdent mua oecauoned by the chimney takii^ fife at the
fivthMt honae, aoath-weat of the village. The wind bebg high
at maX, carried the blazing thatch to the akns-hease, ninety
yank diataot The hnming flakes from the latter flew abof e
190 yards to another cottage, (roB which it connnaiiieated to
sercial dwelIing*lionseB^ bams, and other boildings, consoming
in its passage two standing green ash-trees. But what was very
aarpriaiag, a fence made with furze, staked and exceeding dry,
was iHffned by the flames running fimn end to end, only to the
stakes, or middle of the hedge having one side consomed, and
the other remaining entire, from the violence ^ the wind, which
carried some of the bnrnbg matter miles off to the sea.
The old chnreh of Walberswidc, though thatched, was adorned
with several images, and possessed an organ. This edifice was
taken down in 1473, when ^e inhabitants at their sole cost, rais-
ed m its stead, a handsome structure with two aisles, dedicated
to St Andrew ; which is a striking demonstration of the opulence
of the place at the time of its erection. It was finished in 1493L
It contained a chapel of our lady ; and the images of the Holy
Trinity, the Rood, St Andrew, and several other saints. A few
years afterwards, it received the addition of a north aisle, which
imdered it a beantilul stroctore, well built with flint and free-
stone, with many curious devices on the exterior walls. Each
side was parted from the nave by seven arches, and six pillars
neatly wronght The whole length was 124 feet enclusive of the
iteeple, and the width sixty feet The steeple, still pretty entire,
was upwards of ninety feet high, crowned with eight pinnacles,
sod a wooden spire. This beautiinl edifice, though it sufiered
severely from the fanatical visitors, by whom most of the religi-
an edifices in this county were despoiled in the middle of the
17th century, nevertheless continued pretty entire lill 1696, when
the
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an MFrotit.
Hm inlMbtCaiili unable to support the charge of repatra^ took dowa
the greatest psrt of it, resenring only the aoath-west aagle for
the peribrmaiiee of roKgioiis worship.
At Wanovord was iormerly a priory. Or ceil of Cluniac raonlur,
stthordinale to Thctfori, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At
its snppressioa in the 3-id Henry VI 11. it Was yalned at 30L 9s. M.
per annum, and was soon afterwards granted with the monastery
of Thetlord, to Thomas, Jhke of Norlblk. His son sold it in 161^^
to Sir John Rons, in whose fhmily it has erer since continned.
The chuMih at thw place is bnilt partly of fKnts, and partfy of
brick, and has a newly erected spire steeple, to defray the ex«
pense of which, » peal of bells was sold by the parish.
Wbsthall, anciently the manor of Hubert de Burgh, Earl of
Kent, has belonged since the time of Henry VIII. to the fiunily
of Bohnn, of which Edmund Bohnn, Esq. who resided in thu
Tillage was a voiuminoas writer of the 17th century. The most
noted of bis woiks were *' a Geographical Dictionary, and a
History of King James the Second's thsertion, ip answer to a
pablication entitled T7ie Desertion Discussed, by Jeremiah Col*
lier.
The manor of WnEiirrHAM was held at the period of the
Domesday Snrvey, of the famous William, Earl of Warren, hf
Robert de Pierpoint, and afterwards belonged to the Poinings, the
last of which (amity fell at the siege of Orleans, in 1446. In the
time of Edward VI. it was purchased by the family of Brewster,
who bnilt Wrentham Hall, and whose seat it still continues.
ToxFORD, is a remarkably pleasant village about four miles
to the north of Saxmundham. On the north side of it is Cock«
fidd Hall, formerly the seat of the ftimily of Brook, but now the
lesidence of Sir Charles Blois, Bart. Here is also the neat man*
sion of D. E. Davy, Esq. receiver of the land-tax for the eastern
division of the county. This gentleman in conjunction with a
Mr. Jermyn, is engaged in the compilation of a History of Su&
folk, which will be a voluminous work, and is not likely to make
its appearance till a distant period.
9 HUNDRED
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MFyOUL
»7
HUNDBED OP WANGPORD.
Tlie limrfred cf Wmghid U divided from Norfolk hf Iht
WftTwey «n tiie north: on llie east it is boanded by the haadredb
rf Mvtibid udBlythiflg^; on theoevth^ by Blything; tad on the
weel» by* Hoeue. It oontuns two inarket*teimo, Beoelee and
Bungay.
BsccXBs, a bfge nell kull town, attoaled on the tirer Ware^
ney, wUeh ia navigable from Yannonth, contiina 691 heuseo,
wd 27d8 inhahilantt. It ia a ooqiofation conaiating of a peri-
were, and tUrty^aix bargaaaea, diatittgniahed by the appellationa
of the twelves, and the tweMty^fiurs; the offlee of portreeve, or
chief ungiatratiy being boM in lolatien by tbefermer. The mar-
ket ia eii«3atorday, aipd the town has three amual fiun, on Holy'
Thnraday^ Jnae Oth, and October ML
Becdea eonmta ef aavcral atreeta, whteh terminate in'a apa-
riooa are* where An amriLet ia kept The Ckurek is an elegant'
Gojthie atrufitere with a ateeple, which stands at some distance
from the aantb-eaat ocaner of the chancel, and contains a peal of
ten bells. The porch ia a fine specimen of what is termed the
florid Gethie. The chaieh*yard from its eleraled sitoation, com-
aaanda a remarkably beaattlnl proapect In tim soath part of the
town, are stiU to be seen the mine of another pariah chnrch, call-
ed Bndgate, deoNliahed by order of Qneen Elitabeth, " for that
the parishea of Beeelea and Bndgi^ had been for so roan^ years
blended together, thai the boonds and limita of them could not
be known in 1419 ; when a legal agreement was made by the
biahop, patron, and rectora, of both parishes^ that the rector of
Becdea shonld take the whole tithes of both parishes, and pay
the rector of Bndgate OL I3a. 4d. yearly in the parish chnrch of
Bndgate : ao that the inhabitania of Endgate have time eat of
ouad been eateemed parishioners of Beccles/' At this place was
also fersMrly a chapel of St. Peter, near the old market; a cha*
pel itf St Mary Magdalen, belonging to a smaQ hospital on a hill
near
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near the free school; and a chapel, or heimitage, near the bridge
over the Waveney.
The TatDH-haU in a handsome bailding, in which the qoarter-
aemioBS are held. The Gaol has been censidendbiy iiq>n>fcd' on
the modem plan, and is attended once a wvek by n ohaplain«
Here is a Free-Mckool, ibmnded in the reign of James I. by Sir
John Lemaoj alderman of London, who endowedit with one hmn
dred acres of land for the maintenance of a master and nsher, to
inslrfct fiNty^ighi boys in writing and arithmetic. The town
has likewise a good GnamMor-^osAooi, for the endowment of
which. Dr. Fakonberge, who resided several years in this parish,
where he died in 1713, bequeathed an estate at Gorton in this
county, of the yearly rent of forty ponnds.
To this town belongs an extensive comnon of about 1400
acres, which is of particular benefit to the poor, who kb^ allowed
to turn cattle upon it on very easy terms. The management of
it is vested in the corporation. This common, together with the
manor of Becdes^ formed part of the possessions of Buiy Abbey,
on the dissolution of which, they were both granted by Henry
VIII. to WUliam Rede, but the former for the use of the infasM*
tants.
In 1686 Becclea sustained great injury from a conflagration/
which destroyed more than eighty houses and property, to the
value of 20,000L
Bungay, is likewise situated on the Waveney, which is navi-
gable, for barges as high as thu town. It contains 479 houses,
and 2349 inhabitants. The market is on Thursday, and two
yearly foirs are held here on May 14th, and September 2dth.
This town is neat, and of recent erection ; the whole of it ex-
cepting one street having been consumed by fore in 1688, the total
loss on which occasion was computed at 30,0001. It has two
parish churches. St. Mary's is a stately fobrii^ and with its
beautiful steeple,, containing a peal of eight bdls, is a great oma-
Uientto the town. The roof, covered with lead, is supported by
ten light, elegant pillars. The nave is 72 feet long, and 37 bioad ;
t the
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8VFP0LX. 869
tlK two aklei are of the same length, and each eighteoi feet ia
kctdlh ; and the chancel as wide aa the nave. The church ia
ftoTided with a fiae organ.
Besidea thia church, and that of the Holtf Trhuty, there waa
finnaedy a third, dedicated to St. Thomaa, which waa atandingand
in aae once 1500, hot haa heen so long demolished, that iU site
caanot aaw be ascertained. Between the two churches, are the
niina of a Benedictine nunnery, founded by Roger de Glanville,
and the Cottnteas Gundreda, his wife, in honour of the Blessed
Virgin, and tlie Holy Cross ; and endowed by numerona benefiMT-
tora, whoae gifts were confirmed by Henry II. At the dissola-
tion, when it contained eleven sisters, and its revenues were valu-
ed at 621. Oa. l|d. per annum, its possessions were granted to
Thonaa, Duke of Norfolk, in whose descendants they are still
vested.
At Bungay, are also to be seen tlie ruins of a very strong
CasUe, built as it is conjectured by the Bigods, Earls of NoHblk.
During the intestine commotions in the turbulent reign <lf Sta*
phen, it waa ao atrongly fortified by Hugh Bigod, and stood be-
sides in so advantageoaa a situation, that he was accustomed to
boast of it aa impregnable, and is reported by Holinshed to hare
nude use of this expression :
Were I in mj Cattle of Bongay,
Upon the water of Wareoe^,
1 wonld not set a batton by the King of Cockney.
On the accession of Henry II. however, this nobleman, who
hsd invariably espoused Steph^'s cause, was obliged to give a
huge sum of money, with sufficient hostages, to save this castle
from destmction. Joining afterwards in the rebellion of Henry's
eldest son, against his &ther, he was deprived by the king of
the castle of Bnngay, aa well as PramliaghaB ; but they were
restored, with his oth^ estatea and honours, to his son and heir,
whose posterity enjoyed them for several successions. In the
reign of Henry III. this castle was deoMilished ; and in the lOth
VouXIV. 2B year
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SUFFOLK.
year of Edward I. Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, obtaiued per-
mission to embattle his house erected on the site of the ancient
castle. He endowed his second wife, Alice, with this manor;
and having no issue, settled all his castles, towns, manors, and
possessions on king Edward and his heirs. The castle, borough,
and manor of Bungay, are supposed to have been given by that
monarch to his fifth son, Thomas de Brotherton, and to have
been carried, by the marriage of his daughter and co-heiress, into
the family of the Uffords. The records belonging to the castle,
as well as those of the convent, perished in the great conflagra-
tion already mentioned. The mutability of human afiairs is
strikingly evinced by the present state of this edifice : once the
residence of the great and powerful, it is now become the habi-
tation of the lowest class of people, a great number of hoveU
having been raised against its walls, and let out in lodgings to
the poor.
lu the Market-place, situated on a gently rising ground in the
centre of this town, and considered the handsomest in the county,
are two crosses, in one of which fowls, butter, &c. are exposed
for sale ; and in the other corn and grain. The top of the former
is adorned with a figure of Astrsea in lead, weighing eighteen
hundred weiglit. The principal streets, which are broad, well
paved, and lighted, branch out from the market place to the great
roads leading to Norwich, Yarmouth, Bury, Ipswich, Beccles,
and Lowestoft; and being each terminated by a handsome edifice,
produce, at first sight, a very favorable impression. The Theatre
and Assembly-Room are neat structures, and well frequented;
and the county bridge over the Waveney has recently been re-
built. Here is also a Free Grammar School, which enjoys the
right of sending two scholars to Emanuel College, Cambridge ;
and a Meeting-house for Dissenters.
Contiguous to the town is a common of great extent and ferti-
lity, which, being inclosed and rated, is of considerable benefit
to the inhabitants. A pleasant ws^ of about a mile and a half
to the lower end of it, conducts to the .BatA-Aoti^e, where there
wss
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SUFFOLK.
871
WM fitfmeily a yiiieyard and a physic garden; and it has now
an excdlent cold bath. The town itself^ standing on a sandy
soil, has several springs, which yield a strong mineral water ;
and one in particdar at the King's Head Inn is said to possess
medicinal properties of great efficacy. .
By means of the Waveney, which nearly surrounds the town
and common in the form of a horse-shoe, a considerable trade is
carried on in com, malt, floor, coal, and lime $ and several capital
floor-mills, malting offices, and lime-kilns, have been lately erected.
Here is also a manu&ctory of Suffolk hempen cloth, considerable
quantities of which are sold in Norwich market
Qf the other places in this hundred, the most remarkable are :
Barsham, near Beccles, where, in 1671, was born Laurencb
EcBARD, a divine and writer of some eminence in the last cen-
tory. His fiither was minister of Barsham. After receiving his
education at Christ College, Cambridge, he settled in Lincoln-
shire. In 1699 he published the first part of his Romtin His-
tory, which, in 1702, was followed by a General Eccksiaatical
Hiitory, a work which has gone through numerous editions, and
probably procured his professional promotion to the offices of pre-
bendary of Lincoln, and chaplain to the bishop of that diocese. His
next work was a History of England, down to the Revolution,
by which he gained ccmsiderable reputation ; but the most useful
of his performances, was the Gazetteer^s, or. Newsman' $ Inter'
preter, which may be considered as the model of the Gazettecars
of the present day. In 1712 he was appointed to the archdea-
conry of Stow. Towards the end of his life he was presented by
the king to the livings of Rendlesham, Sudborne, and Alford, in
this county* to which he removed. He died in his carriage, pro-
ceeding to Scarborough for the benefit of the waters, in 1730.
Flixton, or St. Mary South Elmham, is one of the nine pa-
rishes in this hundred, to which the addition of South Elmham is
given. Here was formerly a nunnery of the order of St. Augus-
tine, founded by Margery, the widow of Bartholomew de Creek,
and daughter of Jeffery Hautvile, about the time of king U enry III.
2 B 2 The
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ii
372 ^vrrovK.
•The feiuidr«» gave Ae iMsor of Ftixloii lo Hum hoote, vUehvas
dliMlve^ by tke Moond Ml of (Pope ClemaA Jlh vkiism, ^rhw
ito yeafly Teveiiae was ^siioMkled at 931. 4b. ^id. and.lntcniialiv
Cardinal Wolaey : bat tke ofier being dediMsi by tbat pniat»> li
waa granted to John Tasbuiigfa^ ythoae deaondaafta^agiMnAUbtf
' FMxton Hall. This iuaily beoomiag extinct, tt deaoaadied to thtf ^
of Wyburn, of whom it waa potrabaaad by Williaaii, Adair/Baq.
FUmUm Hall, now tiie leaideBee of hia aoo, Akxander Adrir,
Baq. ia a AoUe etnietare, pleaaantly attnatad near tba.WaTanef*
It waa boiH about 1^16, and. waa originaJly^anrnHuidad by anMit,
filled up aome yeara ago. The style of the «roluteot«ie ia*wluit
haa been denominaAed Inigo Jonea'a Gothie. The princi|ial frcmt
fteea the norUi. The hall and atairci«e are giaod, and the a^art-
aaonta apacioaa. To the aoath waa an open e^donoada;, now dooed
np, and conTert^ into aqiarate roona. The giowida in tpopt
have been embelliahad with extenaiye planlationi, .wUeh^ to^atlier
with the fine woods of Che park, and the ^iow of the n^et, pFodnoe
a ohanniag efiect
At Mettikoham, a village ahant a nule and, % half firom^ Bon-
gay, are the ruins of a quadxangnlar castle, whioh» from tiie
gate-house, and aome parts of the walla atiU standing* mtist baye
been an edifice of considerable extent and strength. It waa bnttt
by John de Norwich, who, in the 17th year of Edirard tU. oi»-
- tained permission to convert his house here into neaitie; in whi^
he alao founded a college or chantry, defeated to Godapd the
Bleased Virgin. The revenues of this house at the Disaolotion
were valued at 3021. 7s. 5d. The founder dying in the. 36th of
Edward III. left all hia estates to his grandaoa* iriio, at hia de-
cease, was possessed of this manor. His couaia and hdr, .Catha-
rine de Brews, having assumed the veil, her eatatcil devolved to
the fitmily of theUfibids. Within the shattered w^ of this qastle
a modem lann«honse haa been erected*
At Shipmbadow, a village about a mile southward of BeecleOp
is the House of Industry lor the twenty-seven parMea of the in-
corporated hundred of Wangford, built in 1765. The original ddit
contraeted
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uctMuu
373
o«iitmcladfcrtlii«yiiiptBe was 85001 The namW of paopiGnia
Hm kouM is ahouft 200, whpse chief suployment is spinning for
the Norwich msnnfsctiiffora*
At Sqttoeuy is Satieriqf HaU and park* the residence of
Miles Boine, Es^ At this place the ancient fiunily of Play tera
had their seat so early as the reign of Edward IL and for some
eentnsies afterwards. In 1633, Sir Thomas Playters« Knt of
Sotteiley, was created a baronet; but the title is now extinct.
In th« dwrch are ssfvecal monmnents for indiYidoals of this ia-
mUj.
WoBUNWHAii waa fiurmerly divided into two parishes, St*
Mary's aad St Peter's; but the church of the latter having loiig
bean desMlashed, it is now accounted bat one. The hall is a
neat msiAsioa, and was for some time the seat of Sir Thomas
nsbiasoB, BarU It is now the property and residence of Robert
SpaiTow, Es^
HUNDRED OF MUTFORD.
This hondred is bounded on the south by the hundred of Blith*
ing; on the east by the German Ocean ; on the mnrth by thelaka
Ltfthing ; and onjthe west it is separated Aom Norfolk by the river
WaTeney . It contains no market-town ; and the principal villagea
are:
GiffLEflAM, situated abont £ve miles to the south of Lowestoft.
The church is defeated to the Holy Trinity : both the body and
ehaneri are thatched : they are separated within by a screen, oa
whidi are painted the twelve apostles. On the outside of the
south porch are tgures of two angels in a kneeling posture on eack
aide of a niehe destined for the reception of a cruci^ On ona
of the north windows is some painted glass, representing an Ecce
Agtms Dd, with the saint broken. Under another small mati*
ktod saints standing with an arrow in his left hsnd, and his right
against his breast, is inscribed St. Edmund. Theiearo also two
SSU& ligwes of a nan and wonun kaeding; the i
2B3
blue.
i-
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374 stjrFOLK.
hhie, with red breeches and jellow stockings ; tiie Woman entirely
in Mue, and the words " William Gange and Margaret :" bat
the heads of both are wanting. There are likewise several crowsB
of psunted glass in the windows^ alluding probably to the royal
martyr, St. Edmund. The steeple is circular at the bottom ; but
the upper part is hexagonal, and contains four bells.
Kessingland had formerly a weekly market^ whence it is
probable that it was then a place of greater importance than at
present. The impropriation of the church of this parish was
given, in the reign of Edward III. to the nuns of St. Clare, or
Minoresses of London, to whom it belonged tifl the Dissolution.
It was then vested in the crown, till granted in the 6th year of
James I. to Francis Philips and Richard Moore. After having
passed through several hands, the impropriation was purchased by
the celebrated William Whiston, then viear of this parish, and
settled by him on the vicarage for ever.
The church, dedicated to St. Edmund, while it belonged to the
nuns, was considerably larger than the present building, as is
evident from the ruins of the old structure, which still remain :
but, after the suppression of the religions booses, being deprived
of the assistance which it was accustomed to receive from that
source, it soon fell to decay. In 1686, the roof was in such a
ruinous state, that the whole of it fell in, and the timber and seats
were carried away and burned. Divine service was in conseqnenoe
dsscotttittued ; till, in 1694, the rebuilding of it in its present
<kmtracted form was commenced by Thomas Godfrey and John
Campe, with contributions collected by diem for the purpose. It
has a lofty square steeple, which contains five bells. The font, of
▼ery ancient workmanship, is of an octagonal form, having on
each of the eight sides, the figure of a saint in a sitting posture,
and underneath each of these the figure of another saint standing
on a pedestal. On that side which foces the body of the church
is a small figure of St Edmund, sitting with an arrow in his left
band, and holding the. point of his beard with his right. Over
the arch of the vest door in the chorch^yard aye two Migeb with
twe
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375
two ceusers, and a small figure of St Edmund sitting between
them in the same manner as on the font.
It seems highly probable that there was formerly a religious
house of some kind in this parish. About half a furlong from the
church on the way to the vicarage-house^ which is called the
Nunnery, there is a fiint-stone wall about forty yards in length ;
and near the road leading to the green, is a small house built of
freestone, with buttresses, which appears to have been the re-
mains of a chapel.
THE HUNDRED OF LOTHING.
The hundred of Lothing is bounded on the north and west by
the Waveney, which separates it from Norfolk ; on the south.by
the hundred of Mutford and the Lake Lothing ; and on the eaut
by the German Ocean.
This hundred is generally called the island of Lothingland.
In former times it was literally an island, the Waveney discharg-
ing itself into the ocean on its southern border between Lowestoft
and Kirkley. After the sea had receded considerably from the
river in this place, it still preserved a small communication with
it ; and whenever a spring tide was accompanied with a storm
from the nortli-west, its waters were forced into the river with
such violence, as to threaten the adjacent country with inun-
dation. To guard against these irruptions, a break-water was
erected as a security for the low grounds contiguous to the river.
Lothingland ceased to be an island in the early part of last cen-
tury, when the sea entirely withdrew itself from the mouth of the
river, which, from a deficiency of water, gradually receded to the
west, leaving an isthmus of about a quarter of a mile, which is
able to resist the most impetuous attacks of the Ocean. The fast
of these irruptions was in December, 1717, when the waves
forced their way over the beach to the river with such irresislible
2 B 4 ' violence.
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Tiolence^ aa to carry away Mntford bridge^ at a distance of a mife
and a half from the shore. This bridge indeed was little more
than a dam of earth, with a passage for the water, till 1760, when
it was replaced by the present structure of brick, with one spar
dous arch, large enough to admit small craft to pass under it
Lowestoft, the only market-town in this hundred, oontains
496 houses, and 2332 inhabitants. Its market is on Wednesday ;
and it has two annual fairs, on the 12th of May, and lOth i^
October.
Lowestoft is situated on the easternmost point of the English
coast, upon a lofty eminence commanding an extensive view of the
German Ocean, and forms a remarkably beautiful object when be-
held from the sea. It consists chiefly of one principal street, nm-
ning in a gradual descent from north to south, and intersected by
several smaller streets and lanes from the west The high street
stands exactly on the summit of the cliff, so that the houses on the
east side of it hce the sea. The declivity, formerly barren sand,
has been converted by modem improvements into gardens, inter*
spersed with alcoves and summer-houses, and descending to the
foot of the hill. At the bottom of the gardens, a long range of
buildings, appropriated to the purpose of curing fish, extoids the
whole length of the town. From the situation of these fish-
houses, the inhabitants derive the two-fold advantage of the easy
conveyance of the herrings torn the boats, and a total exemption
bom the disagreeable effluvia arising from them during the pro-
cess of curing ; though at the same time it must be acknowledged
that the distance of the town from the water is considered as an
inconvenience by the invalids, who resort to Lowestoft for the
benefit of sea-bathing. For this, however, the shore is peculiarly
« fiivorable, consisting of a hard sand, intermixed with shingle,
perfectly free fit>m ooze, and those beds of mud which are fre-
quently met with on other coasts. Four bathing machines are
kept for the use of the company, by whom this place has of late
years been much frequented during the season.
The
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The parorhiil ChMrck «r Lowestoft is sitiiat«id dbout half a
tnile west of the town. The reason oi its heing erected at such a
distance^ is coigectbred to be its greater security from the in-
cursions of the ocean. This edifice is forty-three feet in height^
fifty-seren in breadth, and including the chancel and steeple,
182 feet in length. The height of the tower is 120 feet, in-
cluding a leaden spire of fifty. The church itself consists of a
nave and two aide aisles, separated by two rows of lofty, hand-
some pillarSf In the times of popery it had a rood-loft, the stairs,
ascendinlp^ ^hi^h, Jrere discovered a few years since by the ac-
cidental ^ing of some bricks from one of the buttresses on the
south side of the church. The chancel is remarkably neat and
degant, having been greatly embellished by the late rectors, the
Rev. Mr. Tanner, and the Rev. Mr. Arrow.
The principal entrance to this edifice is by a stately porch on
the south side, above which are three niches. On the ceiling of
this porch is a representation of the Trinity, in which the Father
appears as a feeble old mah, with Christ on the cross between his
knees, and the Holy Ghost, as a dove on his breast Here are
also two ancient shields, on one of which is the cross with the
teed and spear in saltire, also the scourge, the nails, and on
Hbe top, the scroll for the inscription. On the other is the cross
only. Over the porch is a chamber, called the Maid's Chamber.
Tradition relates, that it received this appiellation from two maiden
■inters, Elizabeth and Katharine, who, before the Reformation, re-
sided here in religious seclusion. It is farther reported of these
sisters, that they caused two wells between the church and the
town, to be dug at their own expense, for the benefit of the in-
habitants; and that their niame of Basket Wells, is only a corrup-
tion of Bess and Kate.
The font in this church is of very ancient workmanship.
There is an ascent to it of three steps, on the uppermost of
which is an old inscription, but so worn as to be almost wholly
Illegible. It is surroilnded by two rows of saints, each row con-
nstiog of twelve figures, much defiu^d by Dowsing's deputy,
Francis
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Francis Jessope, vken he visited the churchy in 1644. At the
same time he too^ away from the grave-stones all the brass-
plates^ inscribed with the words Orate pro anima, &c. and others
of the like natiure, together with many effigies in braas« and sold
all the metal for five shillings^ though there was sufficient for a
bell» whicli is now used for the chapel.
In this church is the burial-place of many persons of note.
Beneath a large stone, ia the middle of the chancel, is interred
Thomas Scroope, Bishop of Dromore, in Ireland, and vicar of this
parish, who died here, January 15, 1491. On this stone was
formerly the effigy of the bishop, in his episcopal habit, his
crosier in one hand, and pastoral staff in the other, together with
several escutcheons of the arms of his family^ and a border, all
in brass ; but scarcely any remains of them are now to be seen.
Weever informs us, that a Latin elegiac epitaph was also en-
graven upon the moni^ment of this prekte, and has even given
us a specimen of one of the last verses ; but it probably pmshed
by the mistaken zeal that prevailed at the era of the Refonna*
tton.
The bishop was descended from the noble fiimily of Scroope,
and was otherwise snrnamed Bradley, from the place of his
birth. He was first a monk, of the order of St. Benedict, but
aspiring to greater sanctity took upon him the rule and pro-
fession of a Dominican. He afterwcurds embraced the stiU stricter
discipline of the Carmelites, of whose institution he wrote a
learned treatise, and preached round about the country. Clothed
with sackcloth, and girt with an iron chain, he used to cry out
in the streets, that " the New Jerusalem, the bride of the Lamb,
was shortly to come down from heaven, prepared for her spouse,
and that, with great jo^, he saw the same in spirif He then
withdrew again to the Convent of Carmelites at Norwich, and
there remained twenty years, leading the life of an anchoret He
next went abroad, and was appointed to the Bishopric of Droraore,
by Pope Eugene IV. who sent him on an embassy to the Island
of Rhodes, concerning which he wrote a book; and on his re*
6 turn.
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379
tiim» repaired io his see in Ireland.' Prompled aa' it 'iroald appear
by a certain reatlessneas of dispoaition, he soah qfoilted his hi*
ahopric, aad came into Uieae eastern ooaiitieB, where be went up
and dowil hare^foot, preaching ami insthieling the peopJe in
the ten commandments. In 1478, he was instituted to the vicar^
age of Lowestoft, and died in 1491, at the age of very little less
than 100 yeaTs, witha great reputation for sanctity, say both Rale
and Pitz; and it is aiTohder, observes' Fdller, that they agree in
the same opinion.
In the chancel is also interred James Howard, youngest son of
Thomas, Earl of Berkshire, who died on the 7th of June, 1665, of
the wounds he receired the preceding day, in the sea-fight with
the Dutch, off Lowestoft. " He was,'' says the inscription on
bis tomb, ** a youth of svperidr parts, aid from bis most tend^
years, had an inMiable tliirst for glory." He fell in:the24tbyear
of bis age.
On the first step of the chancel, on a white marble stone, ari
inscriptions for the Rev. John'Tannelr and his wife. He was the
brother of Dr. Thomas Tanner, Biahop of St. Asaph, airthor of the
Notitia Monastica, The second edition of that work having
been left unfinished by the bishop at his death, was completed
and published by his brother *. Mr. Tattner was for fifty-one
years vicar of Lowestoft, and also for some time commissary and
official to the archdeaconry of Suffolk, which duties he resigned,
when the infirmities of age rendered him incapable of performing
them with such exactness as he wished. He was distinguished for
his activity in promoting the interests of religion, which was
more
* Tbe Archaiologia u under tome miitake concerning this work, of which
it Myt : " Before he (the bishop) wat 2S ^etit old, he pohlished hb NotUia
Ncnattiea, in 1695, 8vo. ; and it wa* repoblilbed in folio, in i75X, with great
additions, which he begao to collect in 11l5, bj his brother. Dr. John Tan-
ner, precentor of St. Asaph» and rector of Hadleigb, in Sufolk.*' ' It was in
fact published in 1744, by his bfother^ the Rev. John Taqner, precentor of
St. Asaph, and vicar of Lowestoft. Tbe rector of Hadleigh was Dr. Thomas
Tanaer, the bishop's only son.
I
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1.1 f*
tn sorrouL
p«rtMd«ri7 «nMid in tiift nkdUiac of IQddef
ofUtdMNsk Ha 4i6dDMMbcr 88,1788!, aged 7«
lathe •MlhaialebiatBmdMnTlHNBaaAnMit.iriiafea^
die gnuamar-adioel «l Lowealaft. Hen alao aie teaiAa of the
Utben, Adihys, tail MigheBa, aaiaee dialinKaiihed in ow aaial
hurtory, and all of thinB natiTea of thia towD.
Beer Adaural Ulber, niio took ta aotm ehare in meat of the
hard^Mglit cngagementa leMi the Datoh, ia the eariy partef the
leign e€ Charlee IL ead died in 1M9» ia hm baried, with hie
wife and two aoaa, both eaptaiae in the royal oaTy. Joha^ the
eMer, oemBaaded the Onemaey frigate, and M in l€e&, at the
early age of tweaty-two, in aa attack en a Datoh fleet of aiefw
chant ehipe, in the port of Bergen, in Norway. The eecoad lon^
Eobert, died in lew, aged M.
Against the eostti side of the akle, abovealaigeHiaibleteaA^
wiadi aoveia Ae reaieiae of AAaind Sir John Addiy, ia a Met
t with thie ineeription s
Seered to the aMBOty «f
Sir JoMH A«B»r« Knight,
PnifeoC of the Cowts of Ssndgate.
On whom for bis anithaken idelity and appra?ed*of
Valoar in tbc engagement with the French at
Baittbii BaTj
Where he (^orioosly foegfat lor hk Kmg and Country,
His Mi^esty conferred the honour of kmgbtbood.
He afterwards gave many signal eaamples of his bravery
and skilfiUaess inaaval aAurs,
By which he obtaiaed the pott of Admiral and Comowader
bchief of the Royal Naty, aad General of Harms.
Adorned with tbeie heno«ri»
He exchanged earthly gkny for ieuaortalitjr,
IfthJoiy^ieM.
The
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881
TIm y^iaqipJ Jirnvtl opentioiifl i« mlmk Sir Mib Ankkj ^tm
«igiige4 MfaMiqueatiy to the UtOe Df Bantry Buy^ wef» tlie ear
fagemenU otf Beaehy tteaa, in 1069, audi Caj^ la KkgU(&, ui
1692. On the latter accaaioii» ha conmaaded the Uiie aqoairo^
and waa aent after tfie Tictory, to aftteinpt the deatrodion of pait
af the Freneh ileel^ which had taken refuge ia the Port of St.
Halo. Thia» however, he fooad implieticable, mad though hia
eoodact, io regacd to thia citcnms^ance, waa loadly ceasured by
aooie, yet the gallaat adaiiral found uMaaa to juatify hiawelf
completely, when exaaiined oa.the aahjeot betbre the )Io«ae of
-Commona. Sir Joha died it Portamooth, and waa there ia»
lerred, but hia bodjr waa afterwarda reaMTe4 to thia hia native
^ace.
A little to the weat af Sir Joha Aahby'a monuaient, ia one to
the memory of hia nephew, Jaaiea Mighdla, Eaq. vice-admival
aad comptroller of the royal navy. The firat enterpriie in which
thia gentleman had an opportunity of signalizing himaelf waa the
capture aad deatructioa of a Preach ooavoy, in GfaaviUa 99f
on the coast of Nonaaady^ ia July 17M. Ia the foUowiag month
he sustained a gloriona part in the hard-fought, but indecisive
engagement with the French fleet, off Malaga. About the middle
of this action, in which he commanded th^ Monk of aixty guna,
and 365 men^ the French admiral sent the Serieux of seventy guna
to board him. Captain Mighalla, however, gave the enemy auch a
warm receptiou, that she was obliged to aheer off, after three at-
tempta, though her wounded men were each time replaced from
the galleys. In 1711, he commanded the Hampton Court, under
the ordera of Sir John Jennings, in the Mediterranean, and in com*
pany with aome other English vessels, fell in with two French
ships of 6fty guns, one of which, the Thoulonse, struck, after an
action of two hours, to Captain Mighells. The last active service
which thia officer performed, was as commander in chief of the
naval part of the successful expedition against Vigo, in 1719. Ha
waa appointed comptroller of the navy, in 1723, and died March
21, 1733, aged 69.
A hand.
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A haadflome moDimieiit of white marUe in^tlua aidje^ k ioBoribed
to the -memory of Captain Thomas Arnold^ who served in tk«
royal navy forty years, and died Aognst 31^ 1737, aged 56. The
most roaarkable trait in the pnriGessiimal life <^ Captain Arnold,
was his conduct as £rst lientenant of the Supethe, one of tlie
ships detached hy Sir George Byng, imder Cqitain Walton, im
pnrsait of a division of tlie Spanish fleet, on the coast of Sicily.
In the action which ensned, Captain Master, in the Superbe,
here down apon the Spaaiah admiral's ship, the Royal Philip, of
74 gan8> bat being diffident about the most successful method of
attacking the enemy, he consulted his first lieutenant, Mr. Ar-
nold, who replied, that '* as the eyes «f the whole fleet were
upon him, expecting the most vigorous effi>rts in the discharge
of his duty in that critical moment, he advised him to board the
Royal Philip immediately, sword in hand.'' This coansd was
adopted, and Lieutenant Arnold putting himself at the head of the
hoarders, soon carried his antagonist; bat in this service he re-
cmed so dangerous a weund in one hand and arm, as rendered
them almost useless ever after *«
In the vestry, the following lines inscribed on the tomb of Mr.
Joseph Hudson, fourteen years minister of Lowestoft^ who died ul
1091, deserve notice for their quaintness :-—
Here Lie f Yobr Fain Foil
j||inisler» LameDt;
YoD Must Account How Yon
This Life Hftve Spent -,
Worthy Your Tears, He's Dead,
His Work Is Done ;
Live What He Tanglit Yoo
For His Glass Is Rno.
Bis
* It is castomary at Lowestoft to hang flags across the streets at weddings ;
and the colours of the Royal Philip, taken hy Mr. Arnold, have frequently
been used on these occasions. .
f The coupling of the singular nonn with the plural rerl^ is one of the pe*
' csUarities in the language of the natives of this county.
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Hit Sonle's Id Blisse, The Dust
Hit Bodjr Takes,
Thus Wee Lose All, While
He8v>sn and Earth Pan Stakes.
But Patiently Await, He
Shall Arise,
Bj An Habeas Corpus, At
The Last Assiie.
.18$
In this church is also interred the late \ricar, the Rev. Robert
Potter, F. R. S. and A. S. to whom the literary world is indebted
for the best poetical versions that we possess of the three Greek
Tragedians. His Mschylus appeared in 1777; Euripides in
1781, and Sophocles in 1788. Besides these laborioos works,
he published some performances of inferior importance. In 1789,
he succeeded the Rev. Mr. Arrow, in the vicarage of I<owestoft,
and abont the same time was presented to a prebendal stall in the
Cathedral of Norwich. He was fonnd dead in his bed in October
1804, at the advanced age of 83.
In the church-yard is the burial place of the family of Barker,
with an elegant pyramidal monument, erected pursuant to the will
of John Barker, Esq. who left dOOl. for that purpose, and the in-
terest of 10001. three per cent Bank Annuities, to keep it in repair,
and the overplus, if any, to be distributed among the poor of the
parish. Mr. Barker was one of the elder brethren of the Trinity
House, a governor of the London Assurance Company, vice-
president of the Magdalen, and a director of Greenwich Hospital.
He died at his house in Mansel Street, London, November 1,
1787, aged 80 years, and was interred here with great funeml
pomp. He was a great benefactor to this his native town, hav-
ing for many years before his decease caused not less than 2501.
to be distributed annually among poor, infirm, sailors,' their wi-
dows and fiunilies, exclusively of many other liberal acts of bene-
ficence.
There is no church-rate in this parish, the profits arising^ from
the lands belonging to the church being amply sufficient for keep-
ing
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iDg it in repair. These lands oonsial of sixtj-seren acres, besides
sereral tenements, the donor of which was nnknown so early as
the time of Edw^ VI. and together with 28i acres purchased
with 601. left by William F^ch, by will, dated April 14, 1929,
to buy free lands for the use of the poor, are let by anction in the
town-chamber every seyen years, in the presence of the minister
and churchwardens.
On account of the distance of the church from the town, it was
found necessary to erect places for public worship in a more con*
venient situation. Accordingly Lowestoft had two chapels, both
erected before the Refonnation. One of these, called Good Crosa
Chapd, stood at the southern extremity of the town, but has long
since been so completely destroyed by the sea, that no vestige
of it now remains. The second, nearly in the middle of the town,
•n the west side of the High Street, being in. a very ruinous con*
dltion, was taken down, and rebuilt, in .1698, by means of a sub-
scription of the inhabitants.
Contiguous to this chapel, is the Corn-cross, over which
is the town-chamber, used not only for the transaction of *the
business of the town, but also as a school-room for the children
belonging to Annott's foundation. In 1698, when the chapel
was rebuilt, this structure was put nearly into the state in whidi
it at present appears. The market was at the same time re-
moved from a large area, still known by the name of the Old
Mmrket, to that part of the High Street, contiguous to the edi-
fice : but this situation being found inconvenient, it was again re-^
moved, in 1703, to the spot where it still continues to be held.
The original design of this cross was to provide a shelter for the
formers, when they brought their com hither to maiket; and for
this purpose it was used, till 1768, when part of it was inclosed
for a vestry to the chapel, and the remaining part now serves
merely aa a passage to that place of worship.
The Grummar-Mchoot at Lowestoft was founded by Mr. Tho-
mas Annotty merchant of this town. By indenture, bearing dale
the 10th of June, 1S70, he settled lands in Wheatacre Burgh,
9 Norfolk.
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ftUFFOUL
Norfolk, for the payment of twenty marks, afterwarda augment-
ed by his heirs to sixteen pounds per annum " to maintain one
honest and sufficient person, learned in the art and knowledge of
grammar, and the Latin tongue, and other things incident and
neoeasary belonging to the said art,'' who was to instruct forty
boys bom in Lowestoft ; if there should not be so many wanting
to be taught, then the numb^ to be made up from those resident
in the town ; but should it still be deficient, the number then to be
oompleted with any from the half-hundreds of Hutford and Lothing-
land. The school-house for this foundation, was formerly in the
Town-Close, adjoining to the east wall of the church-yard ; but
this building being in a ruinous state, the Town Chamber was
fitted up for a school iroom in 1674, and has been used for that
purpose ever since.
On the east side of the High Street stands the school-house,
erected in 1788, in pursuance of the will of Mr. John Wilde, of
Lowestoft, dated 22d July, J 735, who bequeathed an estate at
Worlingham, and all his lands and tenements in this town, for
the maintenance of a virtuous and learned schoolmaster to in-
struct forty boys in Latin, writing, reading, and arithmetic. The
minister and churchwardens are empowered to appoint this mas-
ter, and also to remove him at their discretion. His salary is
fixed at forty pounds by the testator, who directs any overplus,.
arising from the estates left by him, to be expended in such cha-
ritable purposes as the minister and church-wardens shall think
fit.
On an elevated point of land near the edge of the cliff*, on
which Lowestoft is situated, and a little to the north of the town,
stands the Upper Light-house, a circular tower of brick and
stone, about forty feet high, and twenty in diameter. It was
erected in 1676 ; and the upper part, for about two- thirds of the
circumference was originally sashed, that the coal fire continually
kept burning within, might be visible in the night at sea. In
1779> this part was found to be so much decayed, that the breth-
ren of the Trinity House resolved to take the top wholly off, and
VouXIV. 2C to
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tb enet one of tite heit\j invebM cylMen fe iU ileiil Ot IM^
beach bestow the cliff «MmAb aA#lh«r ttgfclh<WP6 U twlbeiv iHbM»
iMLtigft IB n frftMe of the MaMie flMttfMi, nM i»
Mich h maimer m to admH ef ito Ma^; tettoved. By
<his bdRdifig eorrei«d l»y tin upper ligM-lfteit, i
erg;ohigoiit of, Lowestoft mtAn are AiectfeiHtiie StniHi <
ftel, whieh ties beVwcea What aM deHMdiiliUd ibe AMmo tad
Biumard aands. TUa channel is abo«t k ^[terter of a nito brtoi^
and three quarlera of k nftle flMfni the ahiMe; 90A thoogk It ham.
existed from tuae innneniorial iieari7eiithttaiMieflpotaaatfffe«»
sent, yet fttm the effeda of daiteMa, alonaa» and parhapii (
eanses beyond the Teach of hnaaA fsneaUgatlkia, H ia to
ating that H nerer contnraea long in tfie same aiintioa* Of iifta
years its motion has been northerly^ as is eTideiit Hoaitito aayuat
changes that have been made in thefioaitioft of the lower li|^t-
house, to bring it in a line with the «pp«r lighwboiiae, and ^k^
ehannel.
The pnncipal part of the eommeiee of ijoweiAoft fa derivcn
TOln the herring fishery. The aeaaoo commenees about the ini^
die of September, and lasts fSXk abocil the middle of If ovembar^
The boats stand ont to aea, to tJhe dbbmce of aboiit thii%un
leagues tiorth-east of Lowestoft, hi order to eSeet the ahoaia aC
herrings coming from tiie north. Hating readked tte fl^Ba^
gronud, in the evening, the proper time ior Mung, ^hey ahortt
Ont their nets, extending d>ont i,Md yards ia length Had ^ight Ilk
depth ; which by meana of amatl casks, called bowls, ftusteoed o*
one side, are made to swim in a position perpeafieular to the war-
Ihce of the water. If the quantity of Mi caught in fMiO niglit
«monnts to no more thai» a few thousaniB, they are sailed, wmk
the vessels, if they meet wiA no better aneeesa, contiaae oa the-
fishing ground two or three niglits-loiiger, ssMhig the fish aaHmy
are caught Sdmetimes whea the quantity taken ia very wmdl,
they win continue on the ground a week or wrore, bat in geneiai
Uic fish are landed ev^ two or three 4aya, and sometinMa oAener
when they mre very suboesaftd. Am aoonwatheiiemBga vehiwoght
+ am
I
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fi4> ti|4 ll^4 «D the floury in li^ap^ ^^% tVQ (Mi 4eq^ AArr
tll^ lu^re ffeiwii04 in Miis ifMe aMl ^ 1uum«, they are p^
into |)mIi«^, ^ fluBseilliitP wat^ <o wash %\m mtU fro^A U1019.
Wog4«i| lipitp,!^^ Ifor feed lopf, ^fe thfip rw fhfopgk the gills
of as many of the fish as th^ will hold, oad fixed at p'o|ier dip-
tiiBC^ in t)ie iqipar pfut of l^e lio^w^, ^ ||igh as the top of the
fHoC A millll«r of aiiall mquA firea, acw^tg to tlie si^ of the
ptoooi 010 HMT killed upon the flwtr, M|d hy the soioke aseM-
VUg from thaia, tl^ (lOEriBga foro «of»d, Aft^ M»P Nl Ma hoog
la ^his mMiafr aboi4 «av«B di^y^ the ikes ^# oatw^had <or
tiva day^jtiial the ^il a^dM may drip finm tbm* Ttm Ar^
ipe tfa?ii|r«k4i4M, md ^er two mof^ i^^ dri^pi^gp, tboF we
Jl^t fonlipfHy haroing until the fi^ ^e peynplei^j oi^>ed. This
operatioii required a longer or a ahortar tm% aeaar^HJV aa thuy
lire dmgaad fyr exporlatiop;, or fow hape oppsimiptioa. The
l^crriogs^ haviiiig hiwg a p^er tiiae« m^ picked m l>«n»bi aoa-
t^jaiogSOPor 100Pe94^)»i 4^»d shipped f^n»iiet
T|ia Pimher of ba^ta nwn^j ^ifiplof e^ at (isw^vtoft in this
49h«ry for mpy y«ais^ prorioHlly to ) 7B|, wa^ ahoat thiKyrthre^,
IIq4 the Vf^^%J pf i^Bfrinia ^s^Aghjt av^mgpd tveaty-000 laf4s,
(each containing 10,000 )i^pg^) \9 % ^at Afl#r thut tiai^,
owing to the w«r with the Patch apd pt^Ksr powfwn, tha yiaoiher of
hoa«s engaged m the ha^rlog fishinry in^lhi^ dii^aiihed ; bat the
hooaliev grapited by an fM^pi^ssad ja )786, fur the eneoucageBieat
of tho fiaheriaa, govo now Figoqr to tbi» ▼MiiftHa hraoch of indus-
try, ao that paly ilkraa years ofterwards, |be baots fitted out by
thia town snouotod to forty-fcur. ^»ch of these b^ts, whiah
are built bon», parr^afi iibout far|y tam, aod aeqaifos eleven men.
la 1808 sonietbiag pare thaa thirty bpf^ gfiiaed dOfiOQU. the
pripaaf thefiah a«r94,i^l%iif^8un|tblMlhad p?^ before been made
m oae s^asffi, iad, the fi;dlowi|ig year, thf y afuraed in sii^ weeks
lOjiQOOl. by inaAireU eaolwively of the other fish caught duriog
thft pariod. Within tho last fl<|y yaan the deiaand for cured
barriogf far tha foiiigli worfcets has coatiderably declined* while
2 q 2 the
1
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388 svFPOLif.
' the home eonramption hu proportiomAly incretsed. The sbpe^
nor qaality of the Loweatoft herringB is evident from their fetcti*
ing a higher price than those of any other place. The London
fishmongers have long heen accustomed to give ten shillings a
last more for Lowestoft herrings than for those of Yartnonth, 1^
the price of the latter he what it will.
Another fishery carried on hy the hoats of Lowestoft, is f<»r
madcarel: hut the principal advantage derived from it hy the
' owners, consists in its finmishing employment fer the fishermen,
' and keeping them at home for the herring season ; as the emolu-
ments received from it are very inadequate to the expense of fitting
ont the vessels, «id the dangers to which tfiey are liable. The
maduiel fishery begins at the end of May, and coatiniies till
the end of June. The number of boats annually employed in
it from this town is about twenty*three.
Lowestoft formerly fitted out about thirty hoats annually for
the North Sea and Iceland fishery, which, however, gradnally de-
clined, till, about the middle of last century, the ill success of the
adventurers caused it to he entirely relbiquished. On the denes
m little to the north of the town, may still be seen a trench wh^re
stood the blubber-coppers, in which the livers of the fii^ brought
home 'from this voyage used to be boiled.
This town being part of the ancieftt demesne of the crown,
obtained at diflSsrent times various privileges, many of which,
however, are now become useless and fiufgotten. The only one
perhaps of which the inhabitants at present avail themselves, in
the exemption from serving on juries, et^er at the quarter-sessions
or assizes ; though the others; if duly invesUgated, might not
•even at the present ikj be found altogether unprofilable.
Lowestoft has experienced a large proportion of ^le calamities
of pestilence, fire, and tempest It has been several times visit-
ed by the phigne, but the greatest mortality which it ever expe-
rienced was in 1603, when 280 persons were buried in this parish
in the space of ^ve months, and in the whole year 316. The
town has also, on different oecasions, sustained heavy losses hy
confiagratiotts ;
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389
pnMaigtti&stm; Wl none proved more deetntetive timn that which
befipened en the 10th <^ Mereh> 164d^ ajid eonsomed property in
dweUing'houees, fiih-houMe^ and goode, to the vahie of 10^71.
Off thistown was foaght on the 3d Juoe^ 1665, one of the moat
aanguinary naval engagementa that took place during the war
with the Dutch under Charles II. The enemy^s fleets composed
of 102 men of war, and 17 yachts and fire-ships, had retreated to
their own coast before the English force of 1 14 men of war, and
28 fire-ships commanded by the Duke of York. The States sent
peremptoiy orders to Opdam, to put to sea, and fight at all events.
The admiral having called a council of war, and finding that the
general opinion concurred with his own for avoiding an action^
said to his officers: '' I am entirely of your sentiments, but
heits are my orders. To morrow my head shall be bound eith«
with laurel or with cypress.'' He accordingly weighed anchor ai
day-break on the 3d of June, and in an hour discovered the Eng-
lish fleet The engagement began about three in the morning off
Lowestoft^ and continued with great fury, but wiU^ut any remark-
able advantage to either side till noon, when the Earl of Sand-"
widi foroing through the centre of the Dutch line, threw their
fleet into such confiision that they never recovered firom it The
' Dnke of York in the Royal Charles of 80 guns was, lor some
hoors» closely engaged with Opdam in the Endiacht of the same
force. The Eari ai FaUnouth, Lord Muskerry, Mr. Boyle, toge-'
ther with some of the duke's attendants, were killed by his side
and the prince himself was wounded in the hand by^ a splinter of
Mr. Boyle's skull. In the midst of the action, the Dutch admi-*
ral blew up, and out of 500 men, among whom were a great num-
ber of volunteers of the most distinguished families in Holland,
only five were saved. This ^tal accident increased the confusion
•f the enemy, so that soon afterwards four of their ships ran foul
of each other, and were destroyed by a fire-ship ; and three more
shortly after shared the same &te. Tlie Orange of 74 guns
being disabled and taken, was likewise burnt. The Dutch vioe**
idmiral Cortenaer received a shot ia the thigh, of which he imme^
2 C 3 diately
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aiately ext>ir6d, and vlD(e«*Aiiifftl ftMlklgWBki taHAf iiM frilMt,
their tbips bora «nt (tf the Uiie» VilbiMik sMitil|r iMr iej;*} ftid
being Mowed by several olker», Ibft eimflttioii ifMl Wieito g«iM»*
Wd. Yati Tramp, boweveiV witii faitt dltMon, g«lltAlly ooM-
dned the omfliet till iieve« In tbe «tilii«f » itten Aiding; fAmmV
d^erted by the rast of the fieet, he wai likewtve obliged to ratlfe*
In this protracted engagement^ efgkteen ef Hie tiieAy'a ahipk
irere taken, and fomieen eunk or WatuM tbey hid' vpimfdi ^
4000 Mn killed, and tmO, antotig wlibtn WeNailciMM eaplaiin,tok«ia
pHamierg. The Englhih le^t only ofte abip of 46 gnni t Hi^ kH«i
afliountsd to fifiO, end their womided ttd notex«aed Sdh. A«imig
the tbhner, wera AdmiUfth BuipMi a«d bftlMibn> and t$lfMm,
tihe Eaiie of Marlberangii atid ^tlaAd. AlnlAg the kttarv HI*
the Hon. Jatnea Ito1nild,the yonngait son tof the Bari ef Baitohira,
#ho being carried <r)n ahote, (expired on the 74^ of lanei «Mi iiltf> an
we hate seen, inteft^ \itk Lowealail oharah.
In ad^4ittbn lo the d^bmted Mital tetettandetft if this W#ti^ «C
whom «^me aoeonnt haa abieady been giyeti> maf be MMnMi
Sir ThoBHas Allen, and Sir AmdraW Leafcik
Sir TiaoBiAs Allsn, whb during CromwtiU^* pilsitoetoNit»
ims stedfaftHy atlaehed tb tlie royal eaa»o, wti flMtt rite M
refllc^tien i^pointal to n oonHnand in the boyid Navy. In \t$4
he waa «eat aa dommimderpin^ohief into Hie Meditonhiiein, WhiM
the fbUowing e|^ng, eH Ae eoqimeneeliieAk ef lh(s w«ilr with the
Dutch, he fcll in wi^ theh* Snyftia f eel^ tontdnMug ef fiMrty v«l-
ael8,aonieor which WM viery aOmg, mrfer eMitt^y ef f^nr ahipa
of war. AHer an obiftiMato engagMent, iki Whieh lih« Dnleh tein^
mander fell, €ir ThMiaa, Who had only eight ahipa, Mialeprine M
fy» of the rieheift of Hie encMy'a fleet. In the ^ibslAiato eoghge-
vaents off LoWeaColl, in 1005, and near the ooaiA^f Hhndera «nd
the Netth Foneknd, in 1660, Shr Thoinaa bora a dMngntehed
part On the eondnaionof the first Dnieh Wsfr, he wttaagainaent
into the hfeditemmean 1^ chailbe Hie A^gerines, and after hk ra**
tQra,waa, in consideratiM oCHiemmerous aervkea^ traated abaranel
Bi 1689. About the same time he purchaaed Hie eatoto ef 6o*
merley
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aoffffOUL
Ml
•f Ms fib itt ftimmnL
Ai|BUw Lbau aJUr sevaitl grogmiRive ilepa in t^ navy*
mtapipoiBlHl to Uia •n«p»yiil of a 8|iip« dwrtni; the wv which
ms fannaated ky the {mm «f Rytwick in 1696. In IWP h^
mn aa^t witk a anaU aquadfon W Newftmndlaad for the pr4t^-
tiam of ike Miery. Oa the M-eDBnaeacemeBl of ho^Uti^ with
VWanae and Sfma, he waa nmofveA la the Torbay ef 80 gqii«, au4
paitifaUarly aignaUzed his^elf in the briUiant atUok pa Vigp;
wiwfe hia ehip, whieh hoake the boom fonnad aerqie the hafh^ar^
aaai lednoed aearly t» a w«du The T4>rhay baviag becQf^
anaag the pabka with which this boon» wej»
that ahe cauU aot ha eKtrioatadi t)^ eneoiy
ant a fire^Up to aaiaplele her deatrp^tion : in which attempt
they would doabtleai have suceead^, bad not a l^ge qaantity
of snnff oa beaid aasieted to eatiagaiah the flames at the mooient
of the espleaian. The eKortioaa of Oaptaia l^N^p on this ooca-
aian prooured him tke hamm of Laig()thoad. In 170a Sir An*
drew^ ia the Graftoa of 70 giiaa, contributed to the attack on
Gibraltar. In the eogaigemaat off Mals^ga in the wae >ear,
he led the . van of the division a^der the conuaander-in-chief.
Sir George Rooke ; but received a wound, of which he expir-
ed during the action. After it had been dressed, he wrapped
a table-cloth round his body, and thoagh life was fast eb-
bing, he placed himself in lua elhew-diair, in which he desired
to be again carried upon the quarter-deck, where he undauntedly
sat and partook of the glories of the day until he breathed his
last From the remarkable comeliness of his person. Sir Andrew
is said to have been distinguished by the appellation of Queen
Anne's handsome captain.*
THOMAS' Nash, an autlior of considerable reputation at tbe
latter end of the 16th ceatary, was also a native of Lowestod,
dC4 his
* It is WQrtbj of remark that tlie naval heroes of Loh entoft. Sir Thomas
Allen, Admiral Utber, Sir John Aihby, Admiral MiglieiU, and Sir Andrew
LeakCf were all related thfaer by coBsaflgoiaitj or juarriage.
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398 «inPFOU.
Uii ftunilj was descended from the Niilies «( Herafbrddiim^
and he was educated at Cambridge. He wrote mnch both in praae
and yene, especially of the satirical kind. Three of his pieces
are preserved in the British Mnseua ; the king's Ubrary ooolains
twenty-fonr, and the Marqnis of StiBifibrd's seven. Among him
prodncUons, that in which he refen most to his native place, m
his '' Lenten Stuffe, or the Praise of the Red Herring, fiUe
of all Clearkes of all Noblemen's Kitchens to be read, and noi
unnecessary by all servhtg-inen that haoe short board wages to
be remembered, 1599. 4to. Bwtnden observes that the facetious
Nash in his Lenten Stt^ffe, designed nothing more than a joke
npon our staple, red herrings ; and being a Lowestoft man, the en*
mity between that town and Yarmouth led him to attempt that by
humour, which more sober reason oonld not accomplish. He died
about the year 1600, aged forty-two.
The other places in this hundred worthy of notice are :
Beltok, remarkable as the hnrisl-place of the late John Ives,
Esq. F. R. S. and F. A. S.* iliiose remains are deposited in the
fitmily tomb in the church of this parish. On a mnral monument
erected to his memory, is this inscription, composed by the late
Rev. E. Thomas of Feversham :—
M. S.
ViRi Lectjssihi
JOHANNIS lVE8 AeMIGBRI
Rbcijb AC ANTiavA&Ls London S. S.
Nec non P&ovtncijb Suffolciensis
Feciaus
Inter Pbjmds brvditi bonarvm artium
Fautoris
Qui in Priscorvm Temporum Monumbntis
ilxustrandis mvltvm (nec xnfbucrter)
INSUOAVERAT.
NoNo MBNsit Jan. A. D. MDCCLXXVI
JEtatXXVI.
Maximo cum oesioerio cm nium
MCBRBNTIVM
* For a brief Jtcconnt of this gentleman, tee Bcantiei^ VoL XL Norfolk, p. S6S
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MIB&SirTnJM PftJMIFUB PARINTUW
JOSAKKIS ET MABXS 1VES«
IMMAtVRX £HEU
ABREPTVS.
Burgh Castle is a relic of the Roman empire in Britain, con-
cerning which oar antiquaries are divided in opinion. One party,
with Camden at their head, insist that it is the Garianonum of
the Romans ; whereas Sir Henry Spelman and some others, place
that station at Caistor, near Yarmouth. Both produce plausi-
ble reasons in support of their opinions, but probability certainly
keems to favor the pretensions of Burgh Castle; though Caistor
is allowed to have been a summer camp, or station, dependent on
this fortress.
Mr. Ives, in his ample and ingenwns remarks on fhis castle,
contends for the identity of this place with the Roman Garianonum.
He fixes the era of its erection in the reign of the Emperor Clau-
dius, and conjectures that it was built by Publius Ostorius Sea-
pula, who conquered the Iceni, or people inhabiting the counties
of Suffolk, Norfolk, Cambridge, and Huntingdon. We are in-
formed in the Notitia Imperii, that the troops who garrisoned
this station were a body of cavalry, called the Stablesian horse,
under the command of a Propositus, who was particularly styled
Gariennonensis ; and it is computed by Mr. King,* that Burgh
castle, even its present mutilated state, would contain at least
one cohort and a half, with their allies.
The remains of this fortress stand on an eminence near
the eonflnx of the rivers Yare and Waveney. From the great
quantities of oyster-shells, and also many iron rings, and pieces
of anchors, belonging to ships, dug up near the walls, it is in-
ferred that the estuary of the Yare once washed its ramparts.f
These
* ManimiiDt. Antiq. p. 116.
t Thit estoary, prior to the formation of^tbe sand on which Yarmooth ia
•itoated, is said to have occopied the whole of the flat conntrj between
Caistor and Burgh Cattle, In support of this tradition, Mr. Ives gives in his
Reimmrk$
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These remains tern tiwee sMei cf a penlW^gnai, haYing the
angles rounded off. WImUmv Hw ^rasl sMa» next the nver, was
ever bounded by a ivrall seenm dedbtM* The water might theo^
have approached near^ to the foiiren, and^ with the steep bank»
haye been deemed a sofBcient security* The north and south
sides are neariy equal in lengthy each measuring 107 yards, just
lialf as much as the east side, which is 214. The height
throughout is fourteen, and the thickness nine feet. The are»
is four acres two roods, or, including the wall^ five acres, two
roods, and twenty perches.
The wall is of grout-work, faced on the outside with Romais
bricks, interlayed in separate courses betwe^ layers of cut flint.
It is buttressed on the east by four round towers, or rather, solii
cylinders, about fourteen feet in diameter; one on the souths and
another on the north, banded likewise with Roman bricks. The
towers seem to have been built after the walls, to which they aiw
not joined, excepting at the summit. At the top of each is a
round hole, two feet deep, and as many in diameter, designed^
as it is supposed^ for the admission of light temporary watch-
towers.
At the south-west comer is a circular mount, which Mr. Ives
took for the Prsetorium. Mr. King, however, though he admits
that the Pnetorium was unquestionably placed on the west side^
observes, that this mount may be suspected, from its form and si-
tuation, to have been rather an additional work in Saxon or Nor«
Mmarht a copy of tnawieat nap, pwpoiting to repretoit the oMiudi •f the
liierai, or Varit, u it appewed in tin jeu 1000. Hie OTiginal, m be in<
forms xa, reiBaini in a chett called the Hatch, bekutgiag to the corporatiea
of Yarmouth, and was copied from one Mill more ancient, which appeared
to he in a perishing condition, ahont the time of Queen Eliabeth. He also
hitrodnces an extract from a manaacript in his posseMton, dated 1560, which
says, «' that all the whoUe It? ell of she marshes and fennes, which now are
hetmiate the tewne eif Yomioath and the city of Korwiche, were then all an
armo of the sea, enieringe within the lande hj <be mouthe of fiicras; and thb
wasaboHte the jere of oar Savioor lfXL» aad k»go balbre," Mmm^ So*
t £dit. p. r.
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tWIMUU
MHitiM^ MMlki intefticm of tInM dradar ncwtli «kidi w%
iMtwilhittsdmaAyliwtratMBof thoieigai.* Ntirthn nmuii
flli6d tlwMitiilMtr, whiofa beio^ aiiAmiMd afUr mhi* keavjr
nte^ Iby the fotM of Um mtef nuaing ditwi ^ vallum Ihil
nomflUidaity Iim Adfteo on om bMo nmr ite origiiiil aitiiataoii, b«l
wlira. Tlio nottii tewer, haTiag «i|KmiMed a auulai
nt, haa foc«M at Mm tdjp akout atx Ibat from the wall, a»4
immn 4awii put of it Tlie tUi of tka oDalli loirv diaoovorod
Hua sittgokrily, tiM Ihe innadiala foiMbtioa waa eovared wiOi
oak planks, about two inches thick ; over tkeae was kid a had of
Nrtar, oB wiych wwe iivegokriy sfpvead tha irat
of tbo AMe. Tho prinoifal aatranco waa oa the oast
Tha fidd oontigoooa to tho oaaloni waU, is anpjpoaed to havo
baoA tho easBiaoa horial plaoo of the gorriaon, fron the gioa*
noAber of RHMan wm that havo hoeH kmd in it, and tha nmo*
heriesafragtnQtawitiiwhichit is every when boslvewod. Those
mtm ofe not MMtfkaUo either for tho wocknaaahip or ike ante*
tkia; hoing made of ooaioe Uue cloy, hiooght ftom the Migh^
fcaiiaig vUkge of Bradwell, ill-formed, hrittie, aad poioua. " Im
the year IWI/' eaya Mr. Ivea,t " a apace of ive yaida a^oaio
wooeponed in thia field, aad ohoiil two bet below the aorfiuse, o
gieait assny fragSKala of oraa were diacovored, whkh appealed
to have been broken by the ploughs and carts passing over theoL
nooe^ and the ojoter abells, hoMo of eotdo, honit cool*, end
elhM> roomiBS lomid with them, plainly diaoovered thia to hove
hean tho uttrma of the garrisam. One of these urns, when the
pieces were onited, held asore than a peck and a half of oam,
andkaid a large thick stone opeiealum on the top of it; within
WES a oewsiderahle ^aatity of hones aad ashes, oeveral taar piecea
of Ooiitaalliaie, end the hemi of a RooMn spear/' " In paUing
doww pan of the hill which formed the Pimtorinm,'*' contiauea the
aasM writer, ** orns and aahes were discovered in great aboodaiiee.
AanoDg Ihem waa a stralnn of wheat, pure aad unadxed with
earth,
• Manimeot, Antiq. 11,$$, f RoMHrka, second Edit p. 34
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M6 strrfOLK.
earth, the whole of whieh i^ppeand Uke tiial Umij^ht bumHet^
enlaiteuin, quite black, as if it had heeii hwmd. - A gneal pari of
it reaembled a coane powder; bat the gia&alatM ferm of tfa^
other, pUdaly ahewed what H had origiaally beea. In the Miae
place, and at the aame time, waa found a cochleare, or Romaa
apoon; it vaa of ailver and had a long handle .very ahaip at thft
point, that being naed to pidc fish ont <^ the shell/' Ringa^
keys, bnckles, fibnls, and other instmments, are ftequently foond
in this neighborhood, and abo coins of silver and copptf , hat
mostly of the Lower Empire.
A little to the north of this eaade, are the remaina of amonas^
tery, built by Forseus, an Irish ikionk, who. under the patronago
of Sigebert, the first Christian king of the East Angles, .and
Felik, the firat bishop of Donwich, coUeetsil a Coapahy of reli*
gioas persons under tiie monastic mle/and pksed them at Buigji;
then called Cnobersbncg, after the name of a Saxon cUetf, who^
had formerly reaided there. On the death of Sigebert, Fur^eus
quitted his monastery at Bnigh, and retired to France, after which
the establishment gradually dwindled to nothing. The anthers of
Magna Brk4amia observe, that, according to a tradition current
here, this monastery, after its desertion by the moi^ waa inha^
bited by Jews, and add, that an old way leading to the en-
trance, called the Jewa' way, seems to give it some ooiov of
Irath.*
The Domesday survey informs us, that in the time of Edward
the Oonfossor, Stigand, Bishop of Norwich, heU Burgh by soc«
cage. Under William the Conqueror, Radulph Baliatarwa was
lord of this SMnor. It is nevertheiesa certain, that thia village
was always a demesne of the crown, being held by the tenure of
aeijeanlry by Roger do Burgh, Ralph hia .oQn, and Gilbert de
Weseham ; at whose decease, being surrender^ into the hands of
King Henry III. he granted it, with all ila appurtenances, to the
priory of Bromeholme, in Norfolk, to be held by the same tennrew
To this retigious house the castle and manor belonged till the
dissolution
«Mag.BnLV.SS9.
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«fTFFOJLK.
397
dknc^tionrlSd Heniy VIII. when they rererted to the crown^ ill
which ^ttey remained tiU they were sold by Queen Mftiy to Wil*
tiun Roberto,' town-derk of Yarmouth.
The chnreh <tf this parish; dedicated to St Peter, is a small
buHditig, -consisting. of a nave, chancel, and round towar. Urn
advac-son of it was giren by Roger de Burgh to the priory of St.
01ave,at Herringfleet, and King Henry III. confirmed this dona-
am. The prior presented to the rectory, and had a reserved
fension of four marks out of it, which is still paid to the pro*
prictor of St. Olavcf's.' Since the dissolution of the priory, the
patronage has belonged to tfie crown.
CosTOTV, a lillagedbout a mile to the north of Lowestoft, is
situated on a high cliff, commanding an extensive prospect of the
sea. The parish, comprehending upwards of a thousand acres,
IS a yicarage, the impropriation of which belonged to Leiston ab*
bey before the dissolution, when it was granted to Chailes Bran-
don, Duke of Suflblk. The body of the church is now dilaptdated,
the chancel being the only part appropriated to difine service.
'The ruins yel^remaining, prove that the building was of consMerib^
Ue dimensions, and the tower, which is still perfect, attesto its
original elegance.
There is every reason to believe that Gorton was formerly mudi
larger than at present. In addUion to the parish church there was
another, or at least a chapel of ease, some remains of which art
still visible nt a place called the Gate : and the old foundations of
houses discovered in different pwts of the parish tend to confirm
the conjecture.
Some centuries since th^e was contiguous to Corton, a parish
called Newton, of which scarcely any other vestiges remain, than
a stone which supported a cross, denominated Newton Cross, and
a smaU piece of ground, known by the name of Newton Green ;
ahnost every other part of this parish having been swallowed up
by th^ sea.
Flixton is supposed to have derived its name finom Felix, the
first bishop of the East Angles. The church of this parish, now
consolidated
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cotuolidated irith BlondestoQ^ ig in nSm, its not huting Umi
Uow9 off in the great nloim^ Ner. 87, IfiiS^ TH«Ml»|i|pr
been chiefly demoliahed for the rapiir ef ntffhlps* mi yh^J|>'
mHM of this hulding is ap^ie4 to the purpose ef a fin^^ft^
evS-boiises* while tbs fem^ i^ esesder^ sspperls the twe vnifliijf-
i^heg^trongb^ ^'.
Ck>Ei«sn'ON^ with the a^jecent hsmlet ef Sootii Te«iir,-i^
lewukshle for nothing bnt the rouis qf an ancieat hmUjiiy
supposed hy Camden to baye hesn a Hligieiis house. Afl^
are in &€t the rsmaios of the ebvreh of St. Nicholss, 4?
Sooth Town, which with the hanriet ^ West-Town, wmff^
to Yaroonth Bridge, are m old writnigs sailed iitde ¥sv^
month.
A late writer * says^ that the parochial jnrisdictions of Goil^
slon and Sontb Town are partly msriudd by an nacieat monas^
renmitt ; som& rnios of the chapel, s^me of the lyartments of iflac
eUeb. the egOerior ofices and wall fsiicea of which est«Hjf|p
meat may yet he traced to a eoosidsvahle exteat; hot it«eeii^
prohaUe that be has &Uen iato the same mislsfce ss Camtew #
segard to the ehorch of Soatfi Towil
GoNTON. This pariah liee to the north of hom^ta/b^ faHa
which it is a^parated only by a Imnk, thrown ap in 1790, by the
propriebsr of Oaatea, to iaelose pwt of the cosmioQ, irhixk k^
till then lain waste. Itcoatainaimiy twoor threebomiea,mioa#
which* the HM, isaspaaoqs aade^prntboiUing, f^niftf
with beaatihl woods and phntatiowf Itwascopaiderab|yfal«^pi^
and improved, in 1746, by Howling Lewaon, Eaq. In (76^ Af^
aviate together with thesmall pariah of Fisbky»iaNoifiAm»
pwvhaaed by Admiral Sir Charies SaaodcP^ for ISjQM. Um
The charch ia a small plain atractaie, aadwaarebailtialTW
as appears fiam the foUowiag iaaqpiptiea aa a ssmll aunl «mmi»*
SMttt in the nerth-west <
■ lib lapcral ««l4t^ YcL IL p. set.
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l^ear this place it interred
CSAftLBt BOYCB,
W1m> 1>efiig de«4 yet tpMbeih ;
Baling ai Ml tiV^daio
Sa^ilt this cimoh at hb own es9#iic%
In thcjflviroa
A we ud Usting proof of bit SMcra pietj.
In tbe ckuicd is an iiiscriptiMi on nuurble tcr the iseiiioiy &i
Ciuuries Colby, £a^ who eolered eariy in life into his majeoty^o
maaml oerviee^ and oommanded Tesseh of almogt every rate, vith
Snat credit to hiaiBelf, and advantage to hu oonntry. In 17M
he was appointed oommiesioner of the navy at Gibraltar, and at
tte conoliiaion of peace in 1763 returned to England, and epent
tbBTeMaiiider of his days in peaceful retirement in the mansion of
ksB friead. Sir Charles Saandtrs, at Guntoo, where he died 28
newwher 1771, aged 70 yeara.
At HKaaiiiGFi.EJBT was a priory of Black canons, fonaded by
Bagat Ktx-Osberl» of Somerley, the last of thai fiunily, in bo-
aMVof the Virgin Mary and St. Olaye, the king and martyr, in
abe beginning of the reign of Henry IIL At the diaaolntion it
contswifld five or aU religioss, and its revenues were vaUied at
491. lis. 7d. The site of this house, and great part of its pos»-
aionSfe were gzantod^ 38 Henry YIIL to Henry Jemegan,E8q.
The rsBaains of this edifice were chiefly taken down in
1784; hut some parts of it are still standing.
Near this priory there was» in the reign of Edward L a ferry,
fiir the ^onreysBce of pasaengers serosa the river Waveney. It
M been kept saaiiy yearn before I^ one Sireck^ a fisherman, who
MCCf mf Ar Us tronUs bread, herringay and other thinga of that
luad, %o Ike v<tttc of ttavnty ^hilUnga a year. The deacendanta
af <hisiMUB SOU the fary to Robert de Ludham^ at which time its
fgbe MM mcjnaaed to fifteen poimds per annam« It was held by
hk yMker R^^ ^ 12^ wh^ Edward I. granted permiaaion
ik ykd Sk l»ri4^ vfv the river at thia ferry : bnt it doea not ap-
pear
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400 SUFPOUL
pear thai omch waa dona till the reign of Henry VII. when Lady
Hobart. relict of Sir Jamea Hobart, attorney-general and prify*
oounaellor to that king, waa at the expense of erecting the
old bridge, which in 1770 waa replaced by the present stmctore.
About the year 1290, the Jemegans of Horham, became the
possessore of the Somerley and Herringfleet estates by marriage
with the heiress of the Fitz-Osberts, and made Somerley the
principal seat of the family.
The site of the priory, together with almost the whole of this
parish, passed, about the year 1740, from the Bacon fttmily to
Hill Mttssendon, Esq. This gentleman left it to his elder bro-
ther, who had assumed the name of Leathes, and by whose sac-
cesson it is still enjoyed.
KiRKLEY, being separated from Pakefield only by the high
road, forms a considerable part of what is generally undentood by
the latter denomination. It is situated to the west of Pdcefield,
and on its north side lies the lake of Lothing, communicatittg
with the sea by means of a small channel, called Kirkley Ham,
which formerly had a sufficient depth of water to admit vessels
of small draught. The principal support of this village, as well
as that of Pakefield, arises from the fishery, which waa once very
considerable, but b now much declined. The church, dedicated
to St Peter, was for many years anteri<Hr to 1749 in a dilapidated
state, but the minister officiated in Pakefield church on one part
of the Sunday, alternately with its own minister. In this man-
ner both parishes were for a considerable time supplied, but at
length they were again parted. After this separation the incum-
bent of Kirkley, not only refused to perform divine service in
Pakefield church any longer, but alao to allow any thing to the
minister of Pak^eld for officiating in his stead, alledging that he
could not be legally compelled. The Rev. Mr. Tanner, vicar of
Lowestoft, and at that time commissary and official in the arch-
deaconry of Suffi>lk, used all the mild and peranasive arguments
in his power to prevail on the incumbent of Kirkley to make an
allowance, but to no purpose. He therefore left htm with this
9 thieati
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SUFFOLK.
401
threat) ** If, Sir, yon will not officiate in Pakefield church, I
will build yon a church at Kirkley, and in that you shall offi-
ciate/ Mr. Tanner was as good as his word, for, partly at his
own expense, and partly with the contributions of others, he fitted
up the present church at Kirkley, in which divine senrice haa
ever since been performed.
The old church consisted of two aisles ; the north still conti*
ones in ruins, and it is only the south aisle that constitutes the
new church. The tower steeple, about 72 feet high, is an excel-
lent sea-maric, but is falling to decay. In clearing away the rub*
bish from the ruins of the old church, several brass-plated stones
were found ; but they are all disrobed, and laid under the pews of
the new building.
OuLTON is situated to the west of the parish of Lowestoft.
The church is an ancient structure. The steeple, placed between
the church and the chancel, contains five bells, and was formerly
ornamented with a spire. The whole building was originally ia
the form of a cathedral, paving two cross aisles or transepts.
The south transept is in ruins : but the north still remains. This
transept, together with a considerable estate in this parish, was
the property of the Fastolfs, a family of considerable note, who
resided here, and were great benefactors to the church, their
arms being painted in many parts of the cieling. In the chancel
on a large stone, are the effigies in brass of John Fastolf, and Ca-
tharine his wife, with their feet resting on a greyhound, the arms
of Fastolf at the comers, and this inscription :
JoHK Fastolp eiqujer died 1445, and
Kates RN, hit wycf, deglitcr of — — — Bedingfelde« 1478.
In the windows are several pieces of painted glass, particularly
in the west window on the north side, in which is a figure in robes,
but without a head.
The manor and estate of Oulton High House, which formerly
belonged to the Bacon femily, and afterwards to that of Fastolf^
Hobart, Reeve, Heytbusen, and Allen, is now become by pur-
VoL. XIV. 2 D ehase
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400 svnoxMj
ph^ae the prtopeTfy of tjie BlftckneUs : but tlie pafBtnovntslBf , a#
alfiQ th^ presentation to the Uviug, nemauui vith the propcir^
tor of Somerley,
The half hundreds of Mtdford afid Lolfainj^iwid haying beett
incorpflrated by aet »{ Parliament in 1764 for the heOer relief of
the poor, and the bnilding of a house oi indostry for their habi-
tation, one of those houses was in 1766 erected in this parish for
that ptti|)ose, into which th« poor belonging to the Tarioos pa-
rishes of \he two handreds were soon afterwards removed. Thi»
edifice, erected on a Jfrugal plan, cost abont 30001. and will con-^
tain about 200 poor, who ^are employed in making nets for the
herring-fishery, and in spuming woollen yam. The nunher of
parishes incorporated is twenty-foar.
Pakefieu) is a parish of considerable extent. Under this
Bame is generally coviprebended not only Pakefield properly so
called, but also the a4Joining parish of Kiridey ; and though to a
common obsenrer the two places seem to ibnn but one village,
yet they are in reality under different regulations in all the brancfaea
of parochial goyenunent Pakefield is sitoaled eastward of Kiik*
ley, on the very summit of the cliffib that bound the German Ocean,
which, dashing against their base, has fre^iently carried away
large portions of these cli£&, together with the buildings which
they supported.
According to Ectoo the church is dedicated to All Saints ; bat
from the ancient inscription on a small silver communion cap
Pakefielde Sante Margaret, 1337, this appears to be erroneous^
It consists of two aisles built nearly uniform ; the steeple, standing^
at the west end of the south aisle, contains five bells. This church
was some years since repaired and beauti6ed at the expense of
the late rector, the Rev. Dr. Lemau, who not only new laid the
floor, erected a new pulpit and desk, and placed over the curioua
old fiont a handsome model of the tower and spire of Norwich
cathedral, but also embellished it with other useful ornaments.
The old pulpit was of very ancient workjna^ship; having on seve*
ral parts of it the figure of a a^an in a devout attitude, and a label
S isBOfog
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SUFFOLK.
403
iwuing from his meuth with this inHcHptioiii Miserkordia Dei
in etemu cantmbo. At the upper eud of the south aisle, ou a
plain stoBe^ with a brasji plate^ is the follawiug iDatcnption in old
English characters t
" Here lies Master Richard Folcard, formerly a rector of a
mediety of this church to the soutli, wlio died on St. Martin's
Day, in the year of our Lord one thousand four hundred. To
whose soul be ttierciful, 0 God. Amen.^'
In the north aisle, on a brass plate^ representing^ a man and his
wife, with eleven children, is another inscription in old Eug*
lish characters, in memory of John Bowf, who died in 1417.
In a barrow on Blood more- hi II, uear Pake field, was fouud^ in
1768, a skeleton, round whose neck hung a g-old medal^ and an
onyx set in gold. The legend round the medal was D. K, T»
AVI TVS. 0^ the ohverse, a rude head hel meted, with a cross
on the shoulder ; on the reverse, VICTORIA AVGGG. exerguo
CONOB. and a rude figure of Victory. Ou the onyx was a mam
standing by a horse, and holditig the reins, with a haslapura
in his right band, and a ^t^dr on hi^ helrneL
SoMERLiTON, commouly called Somerley, is chiefly remarka-
ble for a beautiful old seat called the Hall, of which Fuller re-
marks that '* it well deserved the name of Summerly, because it
was always summer there, the walks and gardens being planted
with perpetual greens.'^ It was anciently the residence of the
Fitz-Osberts, but afterwards became the property of the Jerne*
gans by the marriage of Sir Walter Jemegan, of Horham, with
Isabel, sister of Roger Fitz-Osbert, the last of that family. At
what time this estate passed from the Jernegans, or Jeminghams,
we are not informed. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was the
property of Sir Henry Jerningham, but about 1627 belonged to
Sir Tfiomas Wentworth. By the Wentworth family it was sold,
about 1669, to Admiral Sir Thomas Allen, whose son, dying a
bachelor, bequeathed the Somerley estate, with its dependencies^
to his nephew, Richard Anguish, Esq. on condition of his assum-
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404 SUFFOLK.
ing the name of Allan. This gentleman was created a baronet in
1699; but some yeais since the title became extinct.
) In Somerly church is a monument to the memory of Sir Ri-
chard Jemegan, who is represented upon it o'oss-legged^ in imita-
tion of the knights Templars, with this inscription :
Jeaas Chrut, both God «nd man.
Save thy servant Jernegan.
This Sir Richard was a gentleman of the privy chamber to
King Henry VIII. The occasion of his receiving that i^point-
ment is thus related by Stow : — Certain gentlemen of the privy
chamber, who, through the king's lenity in bearing with their
lewdness, forgetting themselves, and their duty towards his
tsrrace, in being too familiar with him, not having due respect
to his estate and degree, were removed by order taken from the
council, unto whom the king had given authority to use their dis-
cretions in that behalf; and then were four sad [grave] and ancient
knights put into the king's privy chamber, whose names were.
Sir Richard Wingfield, Sir Richard Jernegan, Sir Richard Wes-
ton, and Sir William Kingston.
END OP SUFFOLK.
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■■'I
« >
LIST
OF THE PRINCIPAL
BOOKS, MAPS, AND VIEWS,
THAT HAVE BEEN PUBUSHED IN
Illustration of the Topography and Antiquities of the
COUNTY OF SUFFOLK.
Suffolk is one of those English counties of which no General
History on a satisfactory scale has yet made its appearance, and the
printed information which we possess respecting it must, upon the
whole, be considered as rather scanty. The first peison who made
collections for this county, with a view to publication, seems to have
been the indefatigable Sir Simonds D'Ewes, whose papers are pre-
served among the Harleian MSS. in the British Museum. Subse^
auent collectors, as Wenyeve, Le Neve, Martin, Ashby, and others,
aesigned in their researches rather to gratify their particular taste than
to inform or amuse the public ; whilst the unaccomplished intentions
of Ives embraced only one single corner of the county. The his^
tory and topography of Suffolk projected and begun by Nlessrs, Davey
ana Jermyn, both residing in the county, will, it is understood, be y^
voluminous, that its appearance must necessarily be deferred to a very
distant period.
In 1732, 3, and 4, Mr. John Kirby, who had been a schoolmaster
at Orford, and then occupied a mill at Wickham Market, took art
actual survey of the whole county, and, in 1 735, published the result of
his labours, in a small 12mo volume, under the title of
" The Suffolk Traveller;** or a Journey through Suffolk: in which
IS inserted tlie true distance of the roads from Ipswich to every mar-
ket town in Suffolk, and the same from Bury St. Edmund's. Like-
wise Uie distance in the roads from one village to another ; with notes
of direction for travellers ; as what churches and gentlemen's seats
are passed by, and on which side of the road, and the distance
they are at from either of the said towns : with a short historical ac-
count of the antiquities of every market town, monasteries, castles, &c,
that were in former times, Ipswich, 1735.**
Mr. Kirb^died at Ipswich, in December 1753, and in 1764, a new
edition of his work was published by subscription, with this title r—
" TheSufolk Traveller,** first published by Mr. John Kirby, of
Wickham Market, who took an actual survey of the whole county,
in the years 1732, 1733, and 1734. The second edition, with mauy
alterations and large additions, . by several hands. London, 1 7^4.
Svo. This volume, besides a folio map of the county, contains en-
2 D 3 graving
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406 UST OF BOOXSf &C.
§ravtDff9 of the principal roads in Suffolk, on four quarto plates ; and is
le only distinct work that has hitherto appeared on the topography of
the county in general.
Its agriculture has been ably illustrated by Arthur Young, Esq. (of
whom as a native this county has just reason to be proud) in his
" General View qf the Jgricultufe of the County qf Suffolk; drawn
up for the Consideration ot the Board of Agriculture, and Internal Im-
provement. By the Secretary to the Board. Third Edition, London,
1804." 8vo. with a map, exhibiting the extent of the diflferent soils of
which the county is composed.
In 1748, Mr. Joshua Kirby, son of the author of the Si^olk Travel-
ler, who was settled as a house-painter at Ipswich, emulating the ex-
ample of his father, contribute to the illustration of his native county
by publishing; a set of twelve prints, accompanied by an octavo
pamphlet, intituled :
** An Historical Jccemnt of the Twelve Prints <f MemaeterieSf
Castles^ ancient Churches, and Monuments, in the County qfSuJMk,
which were drawn by Joshua Kirby, Painter in Ipswich, and pub*
llshed by him, March 26, 1748. Ipswich. 1748.'^ 3d pp. TWse
Sints were Clare Castle, Sudbury Priory, Bungay Castle, Cbmt's
oepital in Ipswich, St. James's and the Priory Chorcfa at BorVf
Lavenham Church, Blitbburgh Church, Bungay Church, the TomM
of Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolk, of Henry Fitaroy Duke of
lUchmond^ and of Henry Howard, Esui of Surry, at Framlinghaiflf
and that of William Lord Bardolf at Dennington. In the pamphlet
are introduced several additional engravings, illustrative or some of
these subjects.
The *• Journal of HFilliam Dowsing, the visitor appointed by the
Parliament for demolishing the Ornaments of the churches of Suffolk,
in 1645 and I644y'^ is a curious memorial of the misguided seal of the
puritaDicai reformers of that period.
Some slight notices respecting certain portions of this county are
comprehended in " Observations on several Parts qfthe Counties of
Cambridge, NoffoVc, Suffolk, and Essex. Also on several parts of
Korth Wales, relative chiefly to Picturesque Beautv. In Two Tours,
the former made in the year 17()9 ; the latter in the year 1773. By
* William Gilpin, A. M. Prebendary of Salisbury, and Vicar of Boldre,
in New Forest, near Lymington. Published by his trustees, for the
benefit of bis school at Boldre. London, 1809.'' 8vo.
" A Description of the ancient and present State of tlie Town
tmd Abbey qfBufy St, Edmund*s, in the County of Suffolk. Chiefly
collected firom ancient authors and MSS. The second edition, with
corrections. Containing an account of the Monastery from its foun-
dation to its dissolution ; with a list of tlie abbots and the several
benefactors in the town. To which is likewise added, a list of the
Post and Stage Coaches to and from Bury, with the distance of the
ieveral towns to which they go. Pury, 177K'* ISmo. This edi-
- tion was revised by the Rev. Sir John Culluni> and the third, under
the superintendence of the Kev. George Ashby^ appeared in 1782.
«Aa
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tfST OV BOOKS, Ice,
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^ An HistoricaT and Descriptive Account of St. Etlmuntl's Bury,
HI the County of Suffolk: comprising Detuih of the Ongin, Disso-
fcitioDi and Venerable Remains, of the Abbey arid olher Places of
Antiquity in that ancient Town. By Edmund GiUingwaler, aiithor
oftheHistbry of Lowestoft, &c.'* Bury, 1804. ISnio. This volume
contains engravings of the Abbey Gate, Huins of the Abbey, St,
James's Church, and the Angel Hi'll ; and dii»phys greiiter industry in
the collection of nuilerials, than judgment or skill in the arrangement
of them.
*' An Illustration of the Monastic Hi$iory and Antiquities of the
Town and Abbey of SI, Edmund's Buri/. By the Rev, Richard
Yates, F. S. A. of Jesus College, Cambndgc : Chapbln to his Ma>
jcsty's Royal Hospital, Chelsea, and rector of Ashen, With Views
cf the moat considerable Mona&terial Remains. By tlie Rev. VVilliam
Yates of Sidoeyi Sussex College^ Cambridge. 1B05.'' 4io.
The father of Mr. Yates was employed near forty years as gardener
in the Abbey Grounds, and, thougn not a man of iitemry attain mejitSj
was nevertlieless so interested by the ruins with which he was con^
tinaally surrounded as to defote all his leisure moments to the attempt
to form a collection illustrative of their ancient ^nd present state.
The materials thus collected by him were digested and arranged by
his son, and led to the composition of the above-mentioned work^
which is to be extended to another volume ; but the old man did not
live to witness the publication of the first.
The late Thomas Martin, of Palgrave, was an enthusiastic admirer
•f the Monastic Antiquities of Bury, He intended to write a his-
tory of them, and was many years engaged in making collections for
the purpose, but death prevented him tiom giving to the public the
result of his inquiries. After passing through several hands, such
of his papers as related to Bury were purchasiid by the late Mr.
Gough, who generously permitted Mr. Yatus to incorporate iUmn with
his work.
Dr. Battely, Archdeacon of Canterbury, and a native of Biiry^ who
died in 1708, published a small 4to. vokime, in Latiii, on the Au"
tiquities of that town. Prefixed is a view of the Abbey Gate, exhi-
biting the towers which formerly stood at each corner, on the side next
to the Angel Hill.
" The fforful and Lamentable fFaste and Spoile done by « sud-
daine Fire at St, Edmund's Bury, in Suffolk, on Monday the 10th of
April, 1608." 4to.
'* A true Relation of the Arraignment of Eighteen Witches that
were tried, convicted, and condemned, at the Sessions holden at St.
Edmund's Bury, in Suffolk, and there by the Judges and Justices of
the said Sessions condemned to die, and so were executed, and their
several confessions before their Execution \ with a true relation of the
manner how they find them out, 1645,'' 4to. — At the end of Sir
Matthew Hale's " Short Treatise touching SherifPs Accounts, 1683,'*
12mo. is *' A Trial of IVitches, at the Assizes held at Bury St. Ed-
nuod'i for the County of Suffolk, on the iOth day of March^ 1664«
2 D 4 before
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before Sir Matthew Hale, Kot. then Lord Chief Baron of his Ma-
jesty's Court of Exchequer. Taken by a person then attending the
Court. London, 1682." Sir Thomas Browne, who wrote against vul-
^r errors, was summoned as a witness on the latter occasion, and
18 here said to have declared in court his conviction that ' the fits of.
the plaintifTs were natural, but heightened by the devil co-operatins
with the malice of the witches at whose instance he did the villainies?^
He con finned it by a similar case in Denmark, and so far influenced
the jurv, that the two women were hanged. The hardships and incon*
sistencies in both the above transactions are suflliciently exposed in
Hutchinson's " Historical Essay concerning Witchcraft.'' Chap. IV«
and VIIL
Amon^ the State Trials is given *' An Exact and Particular Nar-*
rative qf a cruel and inhuman Murder attempted en the Body qf Ed-
ward Crispe, at St. Edmund's Bury, Suffolk, by Arundel Coke, £sq«
Barrister at Law, and John Woodbuni, who were afterwards convicted
on the Coventry Act, for this offence, and executed. '^
The late Sir John CuUum, Bart, who was Rector of HaXMted,
published its History and Antiquities, 1784, 4to. The same
gentleman was the author of a brief account of Little Saxham Church
and Bury Abbey, inserted with views, in the Antiquarian Reper*
lory.
Some particulars respecting Bury and the procession of fhe Bull,
with testimonies in notes, and a neat cut of the abbey seal may be seen
in a very rare tract : — " Corolla varia contexta, per GuiK Iiaukinum
scholarcham Hadleianum in agro Sufiblciensi. Cantabr. ap. Tho.
Buck, 1634." 12mo.
A curious account of Bury Fair is contained in — " An Historical
Account qf Sturhridge, Bury^ and the most celebrated Fairs in Eu^
rope and America " printed at Cambridge, about 1774.
An account of a body, believed to be that of the Duke of ExKer^
found under the ruins of the Abbey at Bury, with some reflections
on the subject forms Art. 33. Vol. LXII. of the Philosophical Trans-
actions.
In Archaeologia HI. 311. are remarks on Bury Abbey, with a cor-
rect plan and elevation of it by Edward King, Esq.
*' Notes concerning Bury St. Edmund sin Com. Suffolk, extracted
out of the Right Honourable the Earl of Oxford's Library, by Mr«
'Wanley." fol. 4 pages.
<« Bury wfd its Environs, a Poem. Lob, 1747." By Dr. Winter,
folio.
Of Ipswich scarcely any thing has been printed in a separate form.
Mr. Bacon, recorder, town-clen, and representative, of Ipswich, abo
Master of Requests under Oliver Cromwell, compiled Ammls of this
town, which form a volume of more than eid|it hundred pages; but
as the editor of the second edition of the Si^blk TraocUer obaorves,
notwithstanding his learning, abilities, and oppoitunitics of gainlog io*
&>nnation, it is evident f^m bis writings, tnat be was a pctsoo of
strong
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LltT OF BOOKS, &C.
409
slveng pi^judiceSy and that his partiality, in fiavour of particular no-
tions, led him into many mistakes^ some of which are so gross as not to
be easily accounted for. Such being the case, it b no wonder that the
result ol his researches yet remains in MS.
Mr. Raw, bookseller of Ipswich,^ is at present engaged in pre-
psffing for publication an account of tfiat town, and from his industry
and intelligeoce, much curious and useful information may be expected'
from his work. — All that has hitherto appeared about this place is
comprised in the two following pamphlets, edited by the Rev. Richard
Canning, minister of St. Lawrence : —
*' An Account qf the Gifts and Legacies that Imve been given and
bequeathed to charitable uses in the toxvn qflpsmch; with some ac-
count of their present State and Management, and some Proposals for
the future Regulation of them. Ipswich, 1747." 8vo. and
" TJie Principal Charters which have been granted to the Corpora'
tionqfjpsvnch m Suffolk; translated. London, 1754." 8vo.
" An Historical Account qfDunxvich, anciently a City, now a
Borough ; BHthbur^h, formerly a Town of note, now a FiUage;
Southwold, once a VtUage, now a Town Corporate ; with Remarks on
some places contiguous thereto ; principally extracted from several
ancient Records, mSS. &c. which were never before made public.
By Thomas Gardner. Illustrated with copper plates. London, 1754."
4to. The author was salt-officer and deputy comptroller at Dunwich,
and died in 1769, possessed of considerable collections of coins and
other antiquities.
" The History of Framlingham, in the County of Suffolk, in-
cluding Brief Notices of the Masters and Fellows of Pembroke Hall,
in Cambridge, from the Foundation of the College to the present
time. Begun by the late Robert Hawes, gent Steward of the Ma-
nors of Framlingham and Saxtedj with considerable Additions and
Notes, b^ Robert Loder. Illustrated with ten elegant copper-plates.
Woodbndge» 1798." 4to. Among the plates in this volume, which
are well engraved, are views of Framlingham Castle, the Churches of
Framlingham and Saxted, and several monuments in the former. This
work, savs Mr. Loder, in his Preface, forming part of the History
of the Hundred of Loes, is extracted from a very fair MS. com-
prising upwards of 700 folio pages closelv written, adorned in the body
of the history, and in the margins with drawings of churches, gen-
tlemen's seats, miniature portraits, ancient seals, and coats of amis,
blazoned in their proper colours, which was compiled in 1712, and
remains in the collection of John Revett, of Brand eston Hall, Esq.
Another copy was presented by Mr. Hawes, to Pembroke Hall ; a
third is said to be in the public library at Cambridge ; and a fourth in
the collection of the Marquis of Hertford.
•' The History of Framlingham Castle, written by Dr. Sampson,
of Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, 1663, printed at the end of Leland's
Collectanea, I. part II. 681. edit. 1770, gives a particular account of
the castle, church, and monuments.
'' An Ordinance for settling and cor\firming the Manors qf Fram-
lingham
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410 Utt OF BOOKtr A^C
Umgkam and Saxiedf in the counly of SaAblki and the Lands, TeHe-
Mentfl, and Hereditaments thereunto belongings deveed by Sir Ko*
bert Hitcham, Knt. and late scneant at law to certain charitable nses>
1654." fol.
In addition to the History of Framlingham (be pmblicif indebted to
Hw late Mr. Loder, of Woodbridge for all t^t bat yet appeared re-
i|iecting the laUertown.
•• DeacriptionoflFoodhridge Church, in the County of Suffolk.^
Ibl. 4 pages; without date.
•* Tte Statutes and Ordinances for the Government of the Alm9*
houses in ff^oodhridge, in the County of Suffolk, founded by Tho-
mas Seckford, Esq. Master of Requests, and Sur\'eyor of the Court
of Wards and Liveries, in the 29tn year of the Reign of Queen
Elizabeth, 1587. Together with others subsequently made by Sir
John Fynch» Knight, and Henry Seckford, Eaqun^i 1633 ; Sir Joseph
Jekyle, Knight, and Sir Peter King, Knight, 1718; Sir Thomaa
Sewell, Kni^t, and Sir John Eardly Wilmot, Knight, 1768, (Gorei^
Bors for the time being.) To which are annexed, a Translation of the
Queen's Letters Patent for the Foundation of the Alms House ; an
Abstract of Mr. Seckford'sWill ; a concise Account of the Founder;
and a Genealogical Table of his Ancient Family. Embellislied with
Foor Plates adapted to the Subject. At the end is prefixed. Notes
relating to Woodbridge Priory ; together with the ancient Monu*
nental Inscription in the Parochial Church, and those of late date
collected and published by Robert Loder. Woodbridge, 1799.^ 4to.
The engravings in this tract (of which I find but three) are Views of
Seckford Hall, in Great Beatings, and of Seckford's Alms-houses in
Woodbridge, and a Plan of the estate at CierkenWell, left by the foun-
der for the support of that charity.
« Orders, Constitutions, and Directions, to be observed for amdcon*
ceminz the Free School in fVoodbridge^ in the Countv of Suffolk*
and or the School-master and Scholars thereof, agreed upon at the
Foundation, 1662 ; with other matters relating to the same. SeoHid
edition, enlarged and corrected. Wcfodbridge, 1796." 4to.
«« ffbodbridge Terrier, exhibiting an Accoimt of all the Charities
in that Town, with Note* by R. Loder. Woodbridge, 1787." 4to.
In 1771, the late Mr. Ives, whose devotion to antiquities, and to-
pography, must render his premature decease a subject of regret to the
lorer ot those studies, issued anonymous proposals for publishinff a to-
pographical History of the Hundred of Lotningland, in which his fii-
ther possessed large property. To obtain the necessary information
he circulated a list of queries among the clergy and inhabitants, and
had several plates of arms and sepulchral monuments eneraved ; but
his plan never arrived at maturity. Three years afterwards, however,
be presented to the public :--
** Remarks upon the Garianonum of the Romans : the site and re-
mains fixed ana described. By John Ives, Esq. F. R. S. and F. A. S.
London, 1774." 12mo. with a south view of Garianonum; (be
icfaiiography, two plates; mi^ of the river Yare copied firom an an-
cient
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XSST 07 BOO Its ^ SrCt
411
ci^ttt Origiflial til tbe corporation diest at Yarmouth, and an inscriptiosi
on the mantle*tree of a farm house — A second edition ** with some
slight remarks ;" also a portrait and account of the author was printed
at Yarmouth in 1803.
'* An Historical Account of the Ancient Tami of Lorvegtqft, in the
County of Suffolk. To which a^^ addt^l sum'' cursory Remarks on thfe
adjoining Parishes* and a General Account ot the f^land of Lothing-
land. By Edmund Gillingwater. London, 1790/' 4to- Thh vo-
lumej like the other works of this aulhor, is cxtrenjely crude and lao*
digested.
'* riavs in Suffolk, Norfolk ^ and Norlhomptonshire; lUustratlre of
the works of Robert Bleomiield 'i ncc am panted with descriptions : to
which is annexed, a Memoir of the Poet's Life by E. W. Bray ley.
London, 1806." 8vo. Of the views and descriptions in this elegant
little volume, the greater part belonp to SulTolk, and comprehend
£u8ton Hall, Temple in Eusion Park, rarm House at Sapiston, Sapi»-
ion Chutch, Honington, two of Fakenham and Troston HalL
A small part of the south-east comer of the county is comprehended
in the " Mafioich Ouide, contnining an Accotmi of the Ancknt
and Present State of that Borough; likewise a Description of Dover-
eoutt, Mistley, Manningtrce, W fckes, Walton on the Nasp, Languard
Fort, Felixstow, Walton, Trimley, Shotley, kc. To which are added
Biographical and Historical Notices of Extraordinary Characters.
Ipswich, 1808." 8vo.
In the second volume of The Imperial Guide, by J. Baker, is a
•• Guide to the Picturesque Sctntr^y Subjects of Antiiiuiiij, and
fashionable Resorts, throughout the CofiM of Suffolk to Yarmouth,'*
It contains also a " General Description of Lowestoft^* and its
vicinity.
In the European Magazine f Vol. IT. 1 6R, is a brief description and
view of Heiidleshan House^ and iji the same volume, p, 356, an account
of Aldborough.
MAPS, PLANS, AND VIEWS.
" A New Map of the County of Suffolk, taken from the original
^ap, published by Mr. John Kirby, in 1736, who took an actualaod
^6curate Survey of the whole county ; now republished (with correc-
tions and additions). By iohn and William Kirb^, sons of the Au
thor, 1766, and engpnaved by John Ryland. Dedicated to his Grace,
the Duke of Grafton. With twelve views of remarkable places, the
arms of nine noblemen, and 102 Baronets, Esquires, 8ic." The views
accompanying this map, which is on a large scale, are : Burgh, Met-
tin^hain, Framlingham, Orford, Bunj^ay, and Wingfield Castles,
Leiston Abbey, Butley Priory, Covehithe Cbnrch, Gateway to Bary
Abbey, Blithburgh Priory, and St. James's Church at Dunwich.
The best and most correct map that has hitherto appeared of this
county is that in six sheets *' from the surveys of Joseph Hodskinson
of Arundel Stroet^ Strand/' published by Fadeo, 1783.
A reduction
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419 usT or BooKti &e.
A reduction of Hodskiinon't map in onesheet has also been pnblidied.
Smaller maps of SuflTolk Itave been ^ven among the County Maps
published by Smith and Cary» and also in the Atlas which accompanies
this work.
** A new and accurate Plan of the ancient borough of St. Edanvn^t
jSury, in the county of Suffolk, bv Alexander Downings, was en-
graved by Tomsy and' adorned with views of the Cross and Abbey
Gate.
Another Survey was published in 1747, bv Thomas Warren, in two
sheets, adorned with views of the S. front of the H(»pital, the 8. front
of the market-cross, the £. front of the Grammar School; the S. £.
side of St James's Church ; part of the Abbot's Palace, 1720 ; S. W.
view of St. Mary's Church; N. front of the Eari of Bristol's house;
W. front of the Abbey Gate ; N. front of the Grand Jury House.
Of Ipswich a plan was published so &r back as 1564. I have seen
a copy of it in the possession of Mr. Raw of that town, but so mucb
defaced that very little of it can be made out.
** The Borough or Corporation qf Ipswich, in the County of Suffolk,
actually survey^ and delineated, anno 1674, by John Ogilby, his Ma-
jesty's Cosmograpber, and exactly engraved bv Thomas Stuart, anno
1688, and are to be had at his house in Brook Street, Ipswich. With
the S. £. prospect of Ipswich, faithfully and accurately performed,
Gr. King Delineavit. Surveyed per Robertum Felgate generosum."
This survey, which occupies nine sheets, is adorned with views of the
churches of St. Margaret, St. Nicholas, St Mary Stoke, St Elen, St
Stephen, St Clement's, St. Mary Tower, St. Lawrence, St. Mary
Elms, St. Mary Key, and St Peter, and the houses of £s<)uire Gaudy
and Lord Hereford.
A smaller pfon of Ipswich, with a short historical account, is given
in Grove's " DialogUie in the Elysian Fields between ff^olsey and,
Ximenes, Oxford, 1761." 8vo. and in the same work is also a plan <^
the streets throuch which the procession passed from Cardinal College
to Our Lady of Ipswich.
" Map qf the Toxtm qf Ipsxvich, in which the Streets, BuildingSA
Yards, &c. are drawn from an actual Survey, finished 1778, by Joseph
Pennington, Land Surveyor."
Messrs, Bucks' engraved, in 1741, Ftews of Bury, S. Ipswich
S. W. and in 1738, the Abbey Gate, Bury, and the castles ot Fram^
lingham, W. mngfield, S. and Mettingham, N.
A View of the Abbey Gate, Bury, by W. Millicent, was engraved
by E. Kirkhall, with this inscription : ** A Fiew qfthe Gate-house be--
longing to the Abbey in St. Edmund's Bury, in Suffolk. It being un-
cerUin when this was built, I shall leave it to the more learned to
judge, whether before or after Edward I. ; the wall which inclosed the
Abbey being built in his time."
The " Angel Hill, in St. Edmunds s Bury ; with the Church qfSi.
Mary and St. James, and the Abbey Gate; also a View qfSt. Edh
mund's Hill, Rushbrook, and HarJwicke, J. Kendall del. P. S,
Lambora
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UST OP BOOKS, &C
413
Lamborn sc* 1774." This plate was re-eagra?ed in a much neater and
more accurate manner in 1777.
«« Fieof qfthe Interior qfSi. Mary's Church, Bury!' designed by
James Mathew, and engraved by J. Bateman, 1808.
A View of the Font in ff^orHng^oorth Church, drxwn by N. Hevett,
Esq. was engraved by Vertue, 1753.
ffeveningham Hall has been engraved by Heath.
Groseyinhis Antiquities, has given the following views in thi^ roun*
ty: In Vol. V. JU Saints Church, Dunwich; Alderton HhII ;
Church Gate, St, James's Church, and Ruins qf the Conventual
Church, Bury; Arches near the East Gate, Bury; Blithburgh Prioru;
Burgh Castle; Butley Priory; Framlingham Castle; Leysione M-
hey; St. Matthews, or M^est Gate, and Cardinal WoUcu's Callrse,
Ipswich; Offord Castle and Chapel. In Vol. VIII. Clare Castle;
Town HaU, Ipswich; and H^alton Castle.
In Britton's Architectural Antiquities, are two Views, and a ground
Slan of Redgrave HaU; West Stow HaU, Part XVL Gifford's HaU,
tokeby Neyland, PartXVIIl. North Porch qf St, Mary's rhurch.
Bury; P'iew qf the Abbey gate, plan, and elevation of the north side
qf the same; Details qf the western front. Part XXV. Plan and
details of the Abbey gate-house ; Plan and details qf St, James's
Tower Gate-way, and Fiew of the same, I'art XX VII I.
In the Antiquarian and Topographical Cabinet, No. 46 is devoted
to the illustration of the antiquities of Clare, and contains engravings
of the Castle, three plates of the Priory, three plates of the Stone Font
in the Church, and of an Ancient House in the town. In No. 50, of
the same work, is a view of the curious stone Font in the church of
Snape,
" Specimens qf Gothic Ornaments, selected from the Parish
Church of Lavenham, in Suffolk, in forty plates. London, 1796.''
royal 4to. A volume worthy of the fine rabric which it is designed to
illustrate.
INDEX
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4
INDEX
TO
THE COUNTY OF SUFFOLK.
Acton, m.
•»— — Place, ib.
Agriculture, pecnliwrites Sn the Suf-
folk practice, II ; implements of,9l.
Albemarle^ Earl of, lut agricultural
trnproTementii, 44.
Albrede, JoUu, his benefaction to
Woodbridge church, 30t.
Aldj river, its course, 7—319.
Aldborough, situation, 316 *, incroach-
ments of the sea, corporation, re-
cent improfemenU, 317 ; martelio
tover, sea-bathing, 318 ; river Aid,
fisheries, popolatton, 319; pease
and coleworts found on the beach,
330.
Alderton, church in ruins, t76.
Aldham Common, near Hadleigh, in-
Bcription there, tlX
AUen, Admiral Sir Thomas, account
of him, 380.
Ampton, 17f; alms-house, 173;
Hall,17«.
Arwerton, S94.
^—- Hall, 214, J«5.
Ashby, Admiral Sir John, his monu-
ment at Lowestoft, 380; account of
bim, 381.
Ashby, Rev. Oeorge« hit ooUectionsy
110.
Ashfield, 181.
Ash Hoose, in Campsey, 306.
Aungenryle, Richard de^ account of
liij|ijl07.
B
Babergli, hundred of, 147.
Bacon, Helena, inscription on ^cr»
217, 218.
, Sir Nathaniel, his monument
atCulford, 183.
■ ■■ ", Sir Nicholas, his monumeat a/t
B^dgrave, 202.
Bale, John, account of htm, 358.
Bardweli, 183.
Baret, John,his monument at Burjr,74.
Barker, John, Esq.accoimtof him,S83.
Bamardiaton, 140.
— , anecdotes of ihe ftmfly
of, 14f, natt; their monumenta ft
Kedingtoo, 14«.
Barnbam, (Blackboum hundred) tu-
muli there, 183.
Barnbam, (Bosroere and Clajdon)
house of industry, church, 217,218.
Barrow, 109; antiquities, cmineBt
rectors, llO.
Barsham^371.
Barton, Great, 174.
Battely, Dr. John, account of hi0,lO9«
Battisford, 218.
Baylham, ib.
Bealings, Great, 265.
Beccles^ churches, 367; town-ball,
gaol, schools, common, 368.
Beauiort, Thomas, Duke of Exeter,
discovery of his remains at Bury.
84.
Belton, Mr. Ives's moBsment there,
392.
Benacre^
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JNDEX.
Beincfe> cojiu found there^ 5ol.
Hall, 351.
BenbtJl, St7,
Lodge, 328.
Benicrs, William, Esq. pMisk to bn
memory at Woolvertton, S29.
Bildcston, population^ mauvfaetaresy
charcb, 913.
Blackboum, handred of, 181.
Blith, river, its courac, 7.
Blithborgh, 351 ; its former iropprt-
AQce and decay, tbe cl»Mrch, Sbt ;
tomb of Anna, King of the East
Angles, 354i priory, ^55.
filithing, hundred of, 333.
Bloodmore Hill, near Pakefield, an-
tiquities discovered there, 403.
Bloomfield, Robert, anecdotes of his
family, 186.
Bofauo, Edmnod, account of, ti66*
Borlase,Dr. lingular custom recorded
by him, 125, voir.
Bosmere, lake of, 2, 217.
BoMaere aad Claydon, hundred of,
«n.
Boston of Bury, account of him, 105.
Botesdale, chapel, grammar-school,
197.
Bottold, John, inscription on him at
Tpswicb» 240.
Boxford, 160.
Boxtead, 161:
Boyce, Charles, his monument at
Guuton, 399.
Boyse» John, account of him, 214.
Boy ton, charitable foundation there,
276.
Bradfield Combust, 174.
Hall, the seat of Arthur
Young, Esq. 175.
-, St, Clare and St. George, ib.
Bramfield, 357.
Hall, ib.
Br^mford, uncommon tenure attached
to its manor, SI 8.
Brfndon, population^ rabbit-warrens,
manufactory of gun-flints, noble fa-
jnilies to whojs it has given title,
eminent native, 41.
Brettenbam* conjectured by some to
be the Combrttonium of Antoninus,
213.
Bricet, priory, 218.
BrigbtwcU, 265.
Bromfield, Edmund; accoiuit of him,
105.
Broome, 198; raeBUieftts ia <li»
church, 200.
^^ — Hall, described, 199, fOOt,
Broughton Hall, at Stoiiham AjmI^
22:^.
Brownrigg^ R«lph« eccounl of him,
263.
Bruisyard, chantry, 328.
Bruiidish chantry, 310.
Buil-Cttmp,engagement there hetwee«
the Mercians and East Angles^
357; house of Industry, 358.
Bungay, church, 368; castle, 369;
market-place, theatre, school, bath
bouse, 370; trade, 371.
Dures, its church and monammiti^
164.
Burgh ca8tle,the Roman GarianoamB,
393 ; its present remains 394 ; ai^
tiquiiies discovered there, 395;
monastery, 396; church, 397.
Burnt Fen, in Lackford hundred, im-
provements there, 39.
Bur^, St. Edmund's, aituatum, 47";
history of the town, 48 ; history of
its abbey, 56; Grey-Friars, 70;
other ancient ecclesiastical institi^
tions, 71 ; St. Mary's church, 72 ;
St. James's church, 76; Chufich-
gite, 77; the church-yard, 78;
lopton's hospital, 80; tesideace
of John Benjafield, Esq. Shire
hall, 81; Abbey gate, 82; anti*
quities discovered in the Abbey
grounds, 84 ; Guildhall, free gram-
mar school, 86 ; charity schools*
theatre, bridewell, wool balls, 87;
assembly rooms, Suffolk public U-
hrary. Angel inn, 88 ; new gaol,
house of correction, 89 ; St. Ed-
mund's hill, military magadne, 90 ;
ancient gates, remains of ancieai
buildings, 91 ; vine-fields, 92 ; na-
vigable canals, 93 ; charters, fiair%
94 ; visits of royal and noble pec^
sonages, and remarkable eventf^
95; eminent inhabitants and na«
tives, lOJ.
Butley, priory, 328 ; its remains, 329.
Buxhall, 206.
c.
Cabbages, cultivated for cattle, 15,18*
Calihorpe, Porotbea, her charitiet,
173, 174.
Campsey*
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INDEX.
Campsoy Ash, nonnery,d05.
Canning, Rev. Richmrd, account of
him, S41.
Capel, Sir William^ anecdotes of him,
in, nt.
Capel, Edward, Esq. account of him,
19S.
Carew, Sir William^ his monnment
at Bury, 75.
Carleton, chantry, 911.
Carlelord, hundred of, 264.
Carrots, cultivated for horses, 16.
Cavendish, 163; eminent persons of
the family of Cavendish, 163.
-, Sir John, account of htm.
163.
him, ib.
», Sir William, account of
«70.
-, Thomas, his voyages, 269,
Chedvirorth, Lord, his monument and
inscription at Ipswich, 249, 250;
account of him, 250, 251.
Chelsworih, remains of a stone build-
ing there, 213.
Chilton, remains of its chapel, 164.
Clare, 132; iu castle, 133,136; the
prioryi 136 ; eminent persons bu-
ried in the priory church, 137;
parochial church, 139.
Clagget, William, account of him,
169.
, Nicholas, account of him,ib.
Clenche, judge, his monument at
Holbroo]c,227.
Clopton, Foley, account of his fami-
ly, 80.
■1 ■-, William, his monument at
Melford, 165; curious writ issued
by the court of chivalry respecting
hiro, 166, note,
I , John, his monument at Mel-
ford, 167.
Cockfield, 164.
Coddenham.2l9.
Colby, Charles, Esq. account of him,
399.
Colneis, hundred of, 267.
Cooke, Sir Thomas, account of him,
158.
Copinger, Rev. Henry, his monu-
ment at Lavenham, 154 ; anecdote
Ihim, 155.
m , Sir .William, 206.
Cordell. Sir William, his monnment
at Melford, 167 ; founder of the
liopttals there, 168.
Comwallis, particulars of the noble
family of, 198, 199; monuments for
various membeis of it at Broom«»
200.
Corton, 397.
Cosford, hundred of« 21U
Covehithe,368.
Cowling, 140.
Cows,brecdof, 18.
Crofts, Lord, description of his m9»
nameot at Saxham, 131.
Crag, a manure composed of shelly
17.
Greeting, All Saints, 219, 220.
, St. Olave, ib.
>, St Mary, 220.
Crisp, Edward, Esq. attempt to as*
sassinate him, 79, 80.
Crowfield Hall, 220.
Culford, church and monuments, 185*
, Hall, 183.
Cullum, Sir John, account of him»
118.
, Sir Thomas, his monument al
Hawsted, and account of him»
117, 118.
Dalham, 140 ; church, 141.
Hall, 141.
Darsham, 359.
Daundy, Edward, his foundations at
Ipswich, 240, 249.
Deben, river, its course, 5.
Debeubaro, population, church, free-
school, S09, 310.
De la Poles, Dukes of Suffolk, their
monuments at Wingfield, 315;
at Budey, 329.
Dennington, chantry, 311.
Hall,ib.
Depden, 141.
D'Ewea, Sir Simonds, account of his
family and himself, 188, 192, note»
Dister, Allaiue, his moiiBmeni at La*
venham, l.>6.
Dodneis priory, 225.
Downham, Sandy, 41 ; extraordinaijr
inundation of sand from which it
received that appellation, 42.
Dowsing. William, the parliamentary
visitor, devastations committed by
him in the churches of Ipswich*
242, 255; at Ufibid, 279; at
Woodbridge, 302.
Drtnkstone, \76»
Dniry«
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INDEX.
thuTf, moQttiMdts of tbM f^milt ^
Hawstcd, 113.
— — i Elkabel^ aiKoiint of her, 115,
11«.
•* , Maif«re^ tinguUr purchMet
HMmIc bjr htr, 178.
* , Sir Robert, accouDt of him,
lie, 117.
— ' , Sir Thomai, bi9 VMXiQiiciit in
St. Mv7^i> Bw/i 75.
- — ^, Sir WiUiam, accotDt of him,
115, natt.
Ptt«king-9tool piti^rlr^ tt Imwicb,
Bunwiflbj btiboiM of, S5 ; tituation of
the town, 353 ; representation, «n-
tiquitj,aod former importance, 334;
iooruachroenti of tbe $ea, 335 ; its
churches, 337; monastic institutions,
Impkalf, wyi fiafftwMdi 341.
fcait Bergbolt, charch, aad |;eotIe-
■Ma's teats there, 8S5«
£astoo,306.
— — - Bavantr 359.
-^ — Hall, the seat of tbe £arl o/
Rochford, 306.
Ne«j 359.
Echard, Lawrence, account of bim,
871.
Edmund, St. his historj, BO,
fidwardston, 164 ; religious house
there. 165.
Eidred, John, his monument at Sax*
ham, 1«9.
— — , Thomas, hit Inscription at
Ipswich, C38i
Elephant's tooth found at Walton,
«70.
Elmsett, church, monument, drop-
ping well, 914.
Elmawell, church, and monument,
184.
EUedon, 44.
Hall, scat of the Earl of Al-
bemarle, ib.
Elwts, Sir Hervey, anecdotes of him,
144.
-» John, Esq. anecdotes of him,
146, 147, fifftf.
Enfield, William, account of him,
150.
Ereswell, 44.
Euston, 184.
Vol. XIV.
Euitoo Hall; the teat of tbe Duke of
Grafton; the temple in the park,
18.5.
Eversden, Jobnj a^couQC of him, 105.
Esniug, 44; situiLiiciD, church, an-
cient historj of, 41.
Eje, situation, monastery, 195 ; cat-
tle, 196 ; Roman cams discovered
tber«, 197.
Ejrre, Simon, account of blm, 41.
Falcenham, 185, 1B6.
Fastolf, Jofaoj hi» moouinent it Oui*
ton, 401.
Felixtow, 267 ; priory, S73.
-Cottage, «73.
Felton, account of the familv ofi 566-
Finborough Hall, seat of i\. Pclii-
ward, Esq. 207.
Finers, John, his tomb at Briry, 75.
Fires, dcstnicliTe, at Mildenliall, 40 ;
at Bury, 10« j at Debcnhara, sm%
at Southwofd, 3+4 ; at Blithburgb,
352; atHenham Hall, Sb9, 3(iUi
at Walberswick, ^65 j at Becdcs,
368; at Bungay, 368.
Fish, a remarkable one, caught at Or-
ford. 322.
Fitc-Eustace, niauument of one of
that family, ii^.
Fitaroy, Henry, natural son of Hen-
r^ VlII. hii motiuinent at Fram-.
lingham, }85 ; account of bii&,
f86.
Flixton, rLothing hundred) S97.
(Wangford hundred) 371.
' — Hall, leat of Alcjcinder A-
dair, Esq. 37f .
Ford ley, 359.
Forrdiara All Saints, iia
— St. Genovevc, 176.
St. Martin, ib.
Framlingham, situationp church, SB r ;
monuments, t^, tm ; alnu-hontcA,
f89; free-school, castle, SjyO; de*
•cription of the ca$tle, i9i ; jit
history, 294^ sgO,
Fresingfield, 3U,
Freston, 2f5.
Tower described, t25, f26,
G.
Gainsborough, Thomai, accownt of
him, 149.
* ^ Oardinar,
Digitized by VjiOOQ IC
INDEX.
Gardiner, ^r Robert, his monameot
at Eimswcll, 184.
, Stephen, bishop of'Wio-
chester, account of bim, 108,
Giff«»rd's HbU| Stoke juita NejrUod,
de>cribed, 17«>, 171.
Gii'piiig, river, its course, 6.
Hall, Utn,
.Gipps, Sir Richerd, account of him,
180.
Oialebaoiy church, 37S.
Glemhiim, Sir Thomas, accoont of
hire, 330; his monument at Glem-
ham, 331.
■ I Henrjr, account of him,
331.
Gleroham Parva, 330.
Glemsford, 165.
Gorleston, 398.
Gosnold, John, his monument al Ott-
Icy, «65.
Grimstone Hall, f o9.
Grundisburgh, church, f 65«
Hall, ib.
Guiiton, 398; monuments in the
cburcb, 399.
Guthraro, the Danish chieftain, his
supposed tomb at Hadleigh, tlS.
H.
Hadleigh, population, Sil ; the
church, nienuracnt of Guthram
the Dane, aims-houses, «1S.
Halesworth, 341, 34X.
Hardwick, alms-house ibere, 183.
Heath, fine flock of sheep
kept there, 1^3.
House described.
lf«;
singular custom practised there,
Kf, 1«S.
Harmer, Rer. Tbcmias, account of
him, «]6.
Hanisroere, hundred of. 194.
Haselton, Mary, inscription on bet
grave, 79. -
Hau|[hley, formerly a market-town,
t08 ; remains of iis castle; privi-
leges of (he manor, ib.
Haverhill, 139, 140,
Hawes, Robert, account of him, t89.
Hawsted, its church. 111; sepulchral
monuments, 113 ; history, 119,
ISO
— Farm, 12t.
■ HooM described, 120.
Helnmgham, ffO; chorchimd ma^
numents, Stl.
Hall, «f 1.
HeminffstOD, ludicrous tenure b^
which it was held, 988.
Hemp, cultivation and mtniiihctQra
of, 16.
Hengrave, 123; church and
BMnts there, If 5.
Hall described, lt4.
Henham Hall, seat of Lord Roo^
356.
Herring-fishery at Lowestoft, account
of it, 386.
Herringfleet, priory, ferry, 399.
Hesset, 176.
Heveningham Hall, seat of Lord
Huntingfield, 360; the Queen's
oak, 361.
Higham, Sir Clement, his monument,
110.
Hintlesham, monuments of the Tim-
perley family, Jf 6. ^
Hitcbaro, Sir Robert, his monument
at Framlingbam, 288; his alms-
houses there, 289 ; his princely be-
quest to Pembroke HaU, Cam-
bridge, 300.
Hogs, breed of, 21.
Holbrook, monuments in the churchy
227.
Hollesley Bay, curious cannon pick*
ed up there, 276.
Holt, Sir John, his monument at Red*
grave, 203.
Honington, the birth-place of Ri>>
bert Bloomfield, autlior of the Far-
mer's Boy, 186.
Hopkins, Sfatthew, witch-finder ge*
neral, 103.
Horoingsherth, 126.
Horses, breed o^ 20.
Houses of industry, observations on
those of the incorporated hundred^
11.
Howard, Hon. James, account of him»
379.
Howards, monuments for them at
Stoke juzta Ney land, 170 ; at Frami>
linghani, 9Hi»
Hosne, hundred of, 310.
. ■ .., King Edmund discovered and
put to death there, 312 ; chapel ia
which he was interred, 313.
Hall, the seat of Sir T. M.
Uesiirigge, 313.
Icklinghaa^
4
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INDEX.
r,
Icklingham, curious Romau bricks
preserred there, 46; supposed,
from the vestiges of an encamp-
menti to have baen the Roman sta*
tion Combretonmm, 46.
Ickworth, lt6.
— Park, new baiiding erected
there by the late £ari of Bristol,
1«7.
Uleigb, Brent, 16^.
--, Monks*. 169.
Ipswich, liberty of, situation of the
. town, 250 ; population and ancient
slate, SSl; charters, %32; officers
and privileges of the corporation,
SS5 ; representation, 236; churches
tST; St. Clement's, 238; St. He-
Jen's, SS9: Sl Lawrence, 240;
St. Margaret's, S4t ; Christ church,
- St. Mary at Elms, 242; St. Mary
at Kay, Black Friars, Chrises hos-
pital, 245 ; Free Grammar schao],
244; Tooley's foundation, 245;
Custom House, St. Mary at Stoke,
Gusford Hall, 246 ; St.* Mary at
Tower, Archdeacon's palace, St.
Matthew's, 247 ; Town Hall, 248 ;
our Lady of Ipswich, 249; St.
Nicholas , house in which Wol&ey
was bom. Grey Friars, sr5l ; While
Friars, St. Peter's, Wolsey's col-
lege, 252; St. Stephen's, Coach
and Horses Inn, 2.5.'«; The Tan-
kard public bouse, 256 ; Theatre,
Market-place, 257; New Market,
county gaol, 258 ; House of Cor-
rection, Town and Borough gaol,
259; charitable institutions, bar-
racks, race-course, 260 ; 'manufac-
tures and commerce. 260, 261;
passage vessels to Harwich, 261 ;
eminent natives, 262, 264.
Irrigation, not much practised in Suf-
folk, 17.
lining, sea Eining.
Izworth, population, priory, inicrip*
tion in ibe church, 181.
J.
Jf rroyn, anecdotes of tlie family of,
178, 179.
Jemegan, Sir Richard, his monument
at Somerley, 403.
Joan of Acres, account of her, 137«
K.
Kedington, 142.
Kentweil Hall, Melford, J69.
Kersey, priory, 215.
Kessingland, church, 374.
Kettilbarston, service by which it was
held, 216.
Kirby, Joshua, account of him, 332.
Kirkley, 40<}.
Kitson, Sir Thomas, his monument at
Heograve, and account of him, 125.
Lackford, hundred of, 39.
Langham, 188.
Languard Foit, 275-275.
Lany, Benjamin, Bishop of Ely, ac-
count of him, 264.
Larke, river, its course, 7.
Lavenham, its manufactures, 151 ;
church, 152 ; monuments, 154;
charities belonging to the town, 1 57;
history of its manor, and eminent
natives, ib.
Laxfield, 315.
Leake, Captain Andrew, account of
bim, 391.
Leiston abbey, 362.
Iretheringham priory, church and
monuments, 307.
lievington, alms-house, 267 ; the 6rst
crag dug there, 268.
Lidgate, ruins of a castle there, 143.
— , John, account of him, 106.
Lionel, Duke of Clarence, account
of him, 138.
Li vermere. Great, 176.
-, Little, 188.
Lloft, Capel, £i»q. account of him,
192.
Loes, hundred of, 281.
Long, monuments of the family of,
at Saxmundhara, 327.
Lothing, hundred of, 375.
Lovekin, Rev. Richard, account of
him, 1280.
Loudliam, 277.
Lowestoft, situation, S76; church,
377; monuments, 578; chapel,
S £ 2 corn-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
INDEX.
flMn croMf gnnunw icaiool^ 394!»
385; light-hooMif MS $ itherie^,
386-388; tea-figlit^ 388.
M.
Mad4ockt, anec4oU oidtt of tb«t fa-
mily, I9f .
Major, Sir John, aeeount of bin, 318.
Mary, Queen, tradition* respecting
her re«dcnce at FnunUngban, 899,
note,
Mary, Queen of France, account of,
7t ; description of ber tomb at
Bury, 78.
Hason, Rer. Francis, his monnnent
at Orford, 384.
lAelford, cburcb, monuments, 165;
hospital, 168.
Hall, ib.
^ Place, 169.
Melton, boose of industry tbete« 877,
9*78.
Mcndham, priory, 314.
Mendlesham, population, church, an-
tiquities discovered tbere« 801.
Mettinsham, castle, S7t.
Migbelli, admiral, #cconnt of him,
' 381,
Mildenhall, 39; popolatMMV church,
Motlemen's seats, 40.
Mills, Thona«, bis qbaritable foonda*
tion at Framlingham, S89;bis toab,
890.
Mptford, hopdred of, 3739
—— — - bridge, 376.
N.
Kaetoiii 868 ; bouse of industry, 868,
869 ; harrows in this parish, 869.
Kash, Thomas account of him, 381,
39f.
Neale, Thomas, Esq. his charitable
foundatkm at Bramfield, S57.
Needham Market, population, manu-
factores, church, 81?.
Vcttlestad, 888t
Kewmarket, 47.
Kewton. (09.
Holland, maaufikctufcti church, 158 ;
title of honour conferred by it, 159.
Korfolk. Duke of, his monument at
Frmmltngham, 186 ; accooat of
him»«87.
.188.
Norwoldi Johnde^ accoojit of him,
105.
O.
OAoB, 883.
Old Hall, Fetiitow, id rtim 8r8.
Qnehoose, SlO.
Orford, situation, repret8ntatiott, ^^
pntationi title conferred by it, 380;
the castle, lb. ; deaeribed, 881 ;
iu history, 388 ; the chapel, 383 ;
funeral monuments, 384 ; town*
hall, assembly bouse, fmner im-
portance of the tomi, 386.
Orwell, river, its geneml charaeter, 7;
tradition resp^ctiBg its ancient oMit^
let, 8*75.
Park, 868.
Ottley, church and monument, fSS.
Ottlton» ehutch, 401 ; hooae of in^Ofv
try, 408.
F.
Pake6cld,408.
Pakenbam, 177«
Palgrave, the burUl pUc« ofllio*
mas Martin, the antiquary, 801.
Parham, 381 ; antiquities discoTcred
there, the Parham thorn, 3&8.
Pembertoi), John, his charities, 880»
8B1.
Peyton Hall, near Boxford, 360.
•, Kamsholt, its ruins, 8T8,
Pigeom, great numbers of them rear*
ed in this county, 81.
Playford, 866.
Plome^atc, hundred of, 316.
Ptumston Hall, at Whepstead, 1S8«
Potter, Rev. Robert, account of him«
383.
Poultry abundant in this cood^« tU
Rabbit-warrens, 81«
Ramsholt, 878.
Redgrave, 801;
church, 808.
HaU,ib.
m Ihe
803.
Redlingfieid,
Reere, Clara, account of her, 864.
-, John, last abbot of Buiy, d«*
scription of hia tomb^ 73, 74.
RcndlcshwB,308,
BfiwllfThnp
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INDEX.
HfMliihti Hall 30t, 909.
IteydoD, S6S,
JUjmMs* HUt Hon. Jamea, kb mo-
noment at finrj, 77.
Bichard of Lanham, account of him,
157.
ItUbrid^e, hundred oi^ I3f.
Bitbjj Its church with a circular stee-
ple, 129.
Tiivert, Stonr. Gipping; Orwell, De-
ben, 6; Aid, Blythe, Larke, Ware-
ney, Little Ousc, 7.
B<oger, the Conputitt, accovat of
him, 105.
lUogham, 117; moDDDieots of the
Drurj family there, 177, 178.
Hall, 177.
Jtoggles^l*. Esq. observatiois an the
houses of industry, 11«
Bombai^gh, P'iorj, 364.
Bttshbrook, 178.
»— Hall, 179.
Bushmere, t66.
s.
MfiM, wUtivatioii o^ 17.
Salisbury, countess of, aneodatat of
her, e09.
Samford, hundred of, tt4.
Sanpson, Dr. aocoont of him, t9S,
note.
Baacraft, Dr. WiUmm, arcbbtsiiop of
Canterborj, his benefactions ta bis
natiye tillage, 319.
Sapiston, 188.
fiaviloy Sir Hanry, aaeedula af hitt,
f 15, nottt.
Sazham Magna^ moauniaiit ia the
cbareh, 1«9.
■■ Parya, aionanwat af Lord
CroAs in the akuwli thara, iSt.
fiazmaBdbsMi,chafpb,haasa of mdot-
try destroyed, 3f7.
Scroope, Thomas, aceoaat af him,S78.
SaakAffd, Tbamas, Esq. bis aomi.
ment and account of bin, 505;
sdms-booia foandad by bun at
Woodbrtdga, 504.
Samer, boose af hidoitry erected
there for Casford bandied, 916.
fiwcn, bread of, 19,
Sbarland, Edwvd, Ssq, Ms mmin-
ment at Elmsett, 914.
fiUpneadaw, bausa of iodailry, 979.
ftbniblaiid HaU, 919.
ftblon, 5^.
Simon of Sa^mry, arebbishop of
Cautarbary, bis tomb «t Sudbury,
J49.
Smitli, John, an eminent benefactor
of Bury, bis tomb, 75.
Smvth, Ana, ber charitable fouiida-
tion tt Ipswich. 945.
Snape, monastery, 53«; curious font
in the efaurch, 355.
Soame, Sir Stephen, bis monument at
Little Thurlow, 147.
Sobam, Earl, 506.
Lodge. Earl Soham, ibid.
Samarley Hall, 403.
Somerliton, church, ibid.
Sotterley Hall, seat of M. Bame,.
Eiq. 373.
Southwold, situation, 549 ; privileges
of the town, 545 j dreadful fire,
improramaats, 544; the church,
545 ; guildhall, batteries, &e. 546.
* Bay, eaa^lgbt there, 546.
Sparrow, Dr. Anthony, bishop of
Norwich, aecoantaf bim, 141.
Spencer, Henry, bishop of Norwich,
accooat of him, lOO npte,
Spink, James, Esq. bi« sapulcbral in*
scriptioQ, 76, 79.
Spring, Thomas, the rieh elothier,
Ibf, 155, 157.
Stoke juxta Clare, its monastery and
collegiate ebureb, 145.
Neyland, iu cburcb and
monuments, 170.
Stonham Aspal, 995.
Earl, ibid.
'— — ^ Parva, 294.
Stonr, river, its course, 6 ; tradition
respecting its ancient outlet, 975.
Stow, hundred of, iOS.
Stew Hall, at StowtaagtofI, 188, 1S9.
Stowlaagtoft, 188; antiqotties dis-
covered there, 191.
Stawwmaiket, popalation, riiarch, ma-
nufactures, 905; navigable canal,
Abbott* a Hall, boasa of Industry,
Stradbiook, St4.
Stratford, inscription on the church,
997, supposed to be the Mdj^ntam
of the Romans. 997, 998.
Sudbury, 147 ; manufactares, college,
priory, 148; eminent natives, 149.
I Sodbourne Hall, the seat of the Mar-
9W$aiil*tft)ld,3f6.
Suffolk^
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INDEX.
Sofblk^ iitwttioiiy eztentt diTvioo.
9fld popolatioo, 1 ; climate, loil, 3;
riTertj 6; roa4s« canals, and woods,
7 ; wastes, 8 ; state of pioperty,9;
boildings, state of the poor, 10;
agriculture, 11 ; comnetce and ma^
nuiacttties, M; general histor]^,
ib. ; honorial history, f9 ; eccleti*
astical and ciyiI government, 57*
* ■ ■, Earls and Dnkes of, t9.
Salyardy anecdotes of the fiimlljr of,
«10, til.
Sorry, Earl of, his mooament at Fram-
lingham, t8t ; account of him, i83.
Swallows, obserrations on their de-
parture, 347.
Syleham, its i|pnei/atKt, 314.
Tanner, Rev. John, aoeoontof him,
379.
Tatlingstone, boose of industry for
Samford hundred, fS8.
Taylor, Dr. Rowland, his martyrdom,
Slt,9l3.
Tendring Hall, the seat of Sir Wil-
liam Rowley. 171.
Thedwestry, hundred of, 17S,
Thetfoid, 47.
Thin^, hundred of, ib. '
Thonngton, 364.
Thorn, Chrittmas-flowering at Par-
ham, 3S«.
Thredling, hundred of, 309.
Thnrlow, Great, 145.
— , Little, 147.
■, late Lord, account of him,
181.
, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of Dor-
ham, aoeoontof him, 189.
Thwaice, f03, S04.
Tiroperley, John, inscription on bit
tomb at Hintlesham» tt6,
ToUemacbe, anecdotes of the noble
family of, f fO, Ml.
Toole^, Henry, his charitable foun-
dation at Ipswich, 945.
Trtmlejr, St Martin, 969 ; its church
in ruins, 971.
Trimmer, Sarah, aoeount of her, 964.
Troston Hall, the seat of Capei Lloft,
Esq. 199.
U.
Uford, church, 978; dettractton of
■ its oniiitienti, cm mm uotct to Ao
ibnt^ 979.
Utber, Admiral, account of bin, 380«
V.
Vernon, Mrs. her monument at Hun*
don, 141, 149.
W.
Walberswick, its former prosperity,
364; destructive fires, church, 365.
WalgraTC, monuments of that family
at Bure^ 161 ; anecdotes of it, 169.
Waltoa, church, castle, 971 ; stats
of its ruins in the last century, 979*
Wangford, priory, cburchi 366.
, hundred of, 367.
Ward, Dr. Samuel, account of hima
140.
Warner, Maiy, ber charitable foua-
dation at Bioyton, 976.
Wattisham, singular tenure by whidi
it is held, 916.
Wateney, river, its course, 7.
Weld, Joseph, Esq. his tomb at Bnry«
75.
Welnetham, Roman antiquities die-
covered there, 179.
Wesdiall, 366.
Westhorp, 904.
Hall, its demolition, 904<
WestStow Hall, 194.
Westwood Lodge, near BUthburfl^
357.
Wetherden, its church, 911.
Hall, 910.
Whatfieldft remarkable for its fine
wheat, 916.
Whepstead, 139.
Wherstead Lodge, the seat of Sir
Robert Harland, f98.
Wickham Market, 980.
Wiles, John, hti epitaph at Lavenhamw
156.
Wilford, hundred of, 975.
Wingfield, 314; college, church, caa-
Ue,3l5.
Wingfield, Anthony, Esq. his monu-
ment at Stonham Aspal, 993, 994.
, Sir Anthony, his mon»>
ment at Leiheringbam, 307.
Witchcraft, cruel persecutions for
that imaginary crime, 103, 104.
Witnesham, 966.
Wollaston, William, bis monument at
Finboroogh, 907.
Wolsey«
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INDEX.
Wokej» Cardinal^ lumie In which he
was born at Ipswich, t51 ; his col-
\tfsi6 in that lown» S5f 1 854 ; anec*
dote of him by Fuller, f 54« note,
biographical account of him, f 6f .
Woodbridge, commerce, population,
500; church, 301; priorj, 302;
alms-house, 304 ; itee-grammar-
scbool, meeting-houses, fire-offices,
banks, barracks, 305.
Woollen manu£scturcs of this coun-
ty, «S.
Woolpit, iu manufactore of brick,
charch, spring, supposed by some
antiquaries to be the Sitomagus of
the Romans, 180.
Wooiverston Hall, 2S8; obelisk in
the park, t99; long litigation r*.
specting this estate t30.
Worlingham, 373.
Worlingworth, its beautiful font, 316.
Wrentham, 366.
Wykes Bishop, S38.
Ufbrd, «39.
Young, Arthur, Es^. introdoces the
cuItiTation of chicory into Suffolk,
17; also the breed of South Down
sheep, 19 ; his seat at Brad&eld,
174, 175.
Yoxford, 366.
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SUKREY.
Surrey, considered as part of a highly caltiyated coontrj, will
be found, on a general survey, to present, perhaps, as large a por-
tion of beauty and deformity as any county in the kingdom. This
mixture, however, contributes to give it that variety so eminently
pleasing in natural soenery. Here vast naked heaths impart au
air of wildness, which is strongly contrasted with the numberless
beauties strewed by the hand of art over its surface ; there its
hills aspiring to the bold character, and exhibiting the picturesque
situations of mountains, gradually decline into richly wooded
dales, or plains covered with abundant harvests ; whilst, on its
downs, its
^ spacious airy downs
With grass and thyme overspread and clover wild.
Where smiling Phoebus tempers ev'ry breeze,
The fairest flocks rejoice —
Such are the downs of Bansted, edged with woods
Andtow^y vilks.*
It b a common observation that this county contains a larger
proportion of gentlemen's seats than any other district of Eng-
land of the like extent This circumstance is certainly owing in
part to its vicinity to the metropolis ; but when the acknowledged
sakbrity of its air and other natural advantages are taken into
the account, we shall only wonder that they are not still more nu*
merons.
Vol. XIV. B sitvation
*Pyer't Fleece, Book I.
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2
SURREY.
Situation and EXTEivT.^Surrey is an inland county, si^
tuated on the south-eastern part of the kingdom. On the north
it is separated by the Thames from Middlesex, and a very smalt
point of Buckinghamshire; on the west it is bounded by Berk-'
shire and Hampshire; on the south by Sussex; and on the
east by Kent. Its form is a pretty regular oblong, except-
ing on the north side, where it ts deeply indented by the
Thames.
In regard to size Surrey ranks below most of the other counties
of England ; its greatest length from north to south being about
twenty-six miles, and its greatest breadth from east to "Iresf,
about thirty -eight. In the Magna Britannia^ it is said to be
twenty-two miles in breadth, and one hundred and twelve in cir-
cumference, and to contain 592,000 acres : but the best modem
authorities make its contents 811 square miles, or about 519,000
acres.
DiTiSioN AND POPULATION.— The county is divided into
thirteen hundreds, the names of. which, with their population,
are shewn in the subjoined table drawn up from the returns mad6
to Parliament in 1801.
Hundreds, Townihips,
Ac.
Hund of Black heath
Brixton - • - -
Copthornfic Effingham
Eimbridge • - - •
Farnham
Godaiming - . -
Godley & Chcrtsej
Kingston .....
Eeygaie
Tanridge ....
Waiiington - • -
Woking
Wottou, or Dorking
TownofGnildford
Boro. of Sonthvark
Inha-
bited
itoiues
Bj how
many fa-
odUes oc-
cupied.
1118
17647
1485
1085
1237
1528
2112
1366
U79
2537
1476
923
464
10933
1231
25712
1793
1U62
1236
1440
1686
2603
1580
1269
2914
1668
103C
579
1786&
Males.
3304
45752
4307
27M
3027
3932
4154
5404
3970
3602
7098
4177
2754
35704
Females,
Chiefly
employeti
itt agri-
cuitore.
3064
54998
43961
2631
ai86
4092
4329
6418
3778
3702
7494
4037
2644
1J92
35744
Duiu in
rade ni
2444
3124
1814
795
1184
1433
2773
834
2462
3189
1603
2047
nil
28
135
crafi.
493
16979
883
507
713
929
1444
1293
548
891
1547
612
502
495
15037
Total 46072 63673 127138 1419051 227 46 ,42865| 269043
liv
Toial o
perauna.
6368
100750
8703
5342
6213
8024
8483
11822
7743
7304
1459::'
8214
5398
^3A
67448
• Vol V. p, 3n.
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tn ike yetf ITW, the popvlatioa of Surrey was estimated at
154,900; in 1750, it had increased to 207,000 ; in 1601 it was
found, as ahove, to be upwards of 369|000; and there* is every
reason to helieve, that when the returns under the act of 1811
are made public, it will appear to have received farther acces-
sions dnring. the last ten years. No inconsiderable portion of
this increase nmst doubtless be sought in the immediate vicinity
of the metropolis, and in the establishment or extension of dif-
ferent manufactures there.
The number of inhabitants on each square mile averages 332^
and the averaged number of deaths, taken from the registered ac-*
counts for ten years, amounted to one in foity-one of the resident
population*
Climate. — In a county where the soils and elevations are so
various, the climate also must of course vary considerably. It is
the general opinion^ that less rain falls in most parts of Surrey,
than in the metropolis, or in the vale of London, so that the cli-*
mate may, upon the whole, be regarded as dry, as fiur as respects
the quantity of rain merely : but the southern border must neces-
sarily be moist and damp, from the nature of the soil, the flat«
ness of the surface^ and the immense number of trees which co-
ver it and obstruct ventilation. Prom the like causes^ the low
parts near the Thames must be considered as rather damp. On
the other hand^ the Sitmosphere of the chalk-hills, which run
across the whole county from east to west, is dry^ rather keen, and
bracing. Ou the wide and exposed heaths about Bagsho^, Al-
dershot, and Hind-head, n similar climate prevails, so that the
whole west side may, with | very small exception, be said to have
8 dry, and rather cold, atmosphere.
The spring is in general early, and here vegetation is not so
often checked by frosty morifings, and cold, raw, easterly winds, as
in some of the more southefn counties. The summers are com*
flumly dry and warm ; an^ the harvest early, generally com-
snencing in the first ten days of August, and from the steadiness
B2 of
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4 SORftEV.
of the weather at that important time, there ia seldom aaty eon
oat in the fields after the first ireek of September.
The wind Mows most steadily from the west and south-west^
seldom keeping long in any point between the aorth-wetfl and
north-east. In the spring, and fireqnently towards the end of
antomn, the easterly winds prevail ; and the weather is then ooM
and raw/with a drizzling moisture : hot the greatest quantity of
rain iklls when the wind blows firom the soutlHsoath*west» or
south*
The climate is deemed very healthy in most parts of the county,
between the southern district, called the Weald, and the Thames,
particolariy near the northern foot of the chalk-hills. The dry-
ness of the soil and atmosphere, and the entire freedom firom the
smoke of the metropolis by the prevalence of the westerly winds,
have deservedly conferred the character of salnlnity on this divi-
sion of the county. Even in the Weald, where the surftce is
low, and the soil moist, diseases are by no means fir^uent, nei^
ther is the ordinary duration of human life abridged.
soii^-^The soil of Surrey is extremely various, and by no
means so clearly discriminated as in some other districts of the
kingdom, the different kinds lying a good deal intermixed in
small patches, especially in the nortiiem part of the county.
They may be reduced to the four general heads of clay, loam,
chalk, and heath. The most extensive tract of onifom soil is
that which extends along the whole southern border of the eoun^
ty, and forms what is denominated the Weald of Surrey; adis'
trict about thirty miles in length, and varying from three to five
in breadth. This consists of a pale, cold, retentive clay, upon a
sub-soil of the same nature: its smr&ce is flat, covered with
wood, and its elevation is said to be less than that of any odier
vale district in the island. The agricuhura] management of this
soil not only requires a large capital, but also superior skill, at*
tention, and activity, in order to make the moat of the proper ssa«
sons for the difierent oporatiotts. Proceeding northward we eoms
to a district of sandy loam, likewise stretching across the whole
county^
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eomiy,. but oa the eait aule seldom exeeediag baK a mik m
breadth, till aft Albory and Shalford ft expands as fiir as Has-
eomb and Hambledon on the soath. The richest part of this
tract lies fovnd Godalming; the soil is eyery irhere of great
depth, and rests oo a base of sand^stone, Teined with iron ore.
The most striking and remaricabie district consists of Ae chalky
downs, coDtignons to the former. They lie nearly in the middle
of the coanty, entering from Kent into Surrey by Croydon and
Limpsfield where their width is about seven miles, and gradaaUy
narrowing as they [nrooeed westward, till their termination near
the border of Hampshire, where there is merely a narrow ridge,
but little broader than the turnpike road. Along the elevated
summit of the downs, pcrlicnlarly about Walton and Hedley, and
between the Mole and the Wey, is a large extent of heath, whieh|
for a considerable depth, divides the chalk of the northern from
that of the southern compartment of the downs, though it is pro-
bable that they jmn at their base. Setting out from the eastern
extremity of the downs, and proceeding northward, we iind a va-
riety of soils, but chiefly strong clay, streaked with sandy loam;
and these, with patchsn of gravel, continne till near Dulwieb,
from which place, to the extremity of the county near Rother<»
hithe, is a Strang unmixed clay. If we set out farther to the
west, from Bansted downs, we find the chalk bounded by a long
stretch of clay, by Sutton, Morden, and the east side of Morton,
till we reach the h>aam of Putney heath, Wimbledon, and Mort*
lake. A similar line of soils, but with leas extent of clay, be-
fore we reach the sandy loams, prevails, if we set out from any
point of the downs between Bansted and Clandon; and the
brther westward we proceed, the breadth of the clay soil that di-
vides the chalk from the sandy loam decreases in proportion.
Rom the norttem borders of the clay to the Thames, the soil in
general is sandy, intermixed, however, especially on the bankft
of the Mole and the Wey, with loam of different qualities and
day. It is diftcult to conceive a worse kind of soil than that of
the ktfOm of Surrey^ and these nnfortunately occupy a very
B3 largo
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9 SVRJISY.
Ivge portion of the west side of the comity. The whole traet
from Egham to Ash is, with little exception, heath, or moorish
soil, which is ako of considerable breadth; for the space from
Bagshot, throQgh Chobham and Byfleet, to Cobham, Ripley,
and Qattands, b a series of dreary and almost irreclaimable
heaths. The soil is similar on that line of the barren land which
runs from Blackheath to Leith hill, and stretehes from the ?ale
of Albnry to the beginning of the Weald, near Ewhurst.
Genbral appearance. The svr&ce of almost the whole of
Suirey, except the Weald, consists of gentle hill and dale. In
some parts the hills rise to a considerable height, and present
very bold wd commanding views. The northrweat comer of the
eoonty, near the Thames, has its sor&oe varied by Cooper's
hill and St Anne's hill ; both remarkable for the great extent of
country whjoh can be seen from them. The next eminence to the
east, but at a greater distance from the Thames, is St George's
Hill; after which, proceeding down the river, the heights of
Richmond, Putney, and Roehampton, attract the eye, and farther
to the east, the rising grounds about Norwood and Dnlwich.
Across the middle of the county the downs, rising with a gentle
slope from the north, and broken in their eastern division into
deep and waving vallies^ form n striking object^ and give variety
to the appearance of the cpunty. Towards the northern border of
the downs, Saqdersted hill, near Croydon, affords a rich and ma«
jestic view. From Box hill, Bansted downs, and Hedley heath,
the prospect^ are also singularly commanding and diversified. To
the ^nth of the downs the suriace of the county ri9es in the hills
that overhang the Weald, near Oxted, Godstone, Reygate, and
Dorking. As we approach the western ext^mity of the county,
these hills cover a greater breadth ; and near Wonersh, Godal*
ming, and Peperharrow, covered with a rich foliage, and waving,
with a grscefol line, into intermediate vallies, watered by the difr
ferent branches of the Wey, they present the most picturesque
prospect that Surrey can afford. On Leith hill, to the south-
west Qf Dorking, Tilbuster hill, near Godstone, and Qratewood
t w«
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SXJRJLVX. 7
hill, near Godahning, the views are very extensive ; bnt perhaps
ttiere is no part of the county in which the appearance of the
richly wooded vale of the Weald is more strikingly pleasing than
on the road from Albury to Ewhurst. After toiling up the deep
and barren sands to the south of Albury, that present no object
on which the eye can repose, even for a moment, we suddenly
come to the sonthem edge of the hill, whence the whole extent of
the Weald, clothed with wood, appears to the south, with an occa-
sional peep of the sea, through the breaks of the Sussex Downs,
which form the back-^jonnd : on the south-west appears the rich
and finely varied country about Godalming, backed by the wild
heaths that stretch across from Pamham to Haslemere. Some-
times on a clear night the shadow of the mooa is to be seen glanc-
ing on the waves of the English Channel, forming a singular and
romantic feature in the prospect.*
Waters. — ^Thc principal rivers of this county, including the
Thames, which only washes its northern border, are the Wey,
the Mole, and the Wandle.
The Wey rising on the border of Surrey, south-west of Hasle-
mere, first takes its course by Liphook in Hampshire; atraiu
entering Surrey it runs eastward to Godalming and Guildford,
having been joined at Shalford by a stream, which rises in the
commons to the south of Wotton, and which, though small, sup-
plies a great number of mills, besides embellishing the grounds
of many gentlemen in its course. From Guildford the Wey passes
north-eastward to Woking, leaves the town at a small distance
on the north-west, then proceeds to Weyhridge^, to which place it
gives name, and there discharges itself into the Thames.
The Mole is formed by the union of several springs rising on
the sonthem border of this county and in the forest of Tilgate, in
Sussex, which, in the parish of Horley, southward of Reygate,
compose a considerable stream. It flows at first through a flat
and rather uninteresting country, till it approaches the great bar-
ripr of Downs, which extends across the county. Near Dorking,
B 4 which
• Stfvenaon'i Vi«w of the Agricaitare of Surrey, p. 40.
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9 SURREY.
which it leaves on the soath-weftl» it enters one of the defiles of
these Downs, and traversing a romantic valley, washes the foot
of Box-hill iu its progress to Letherhead. Here the Mole makes
its exit from among the hills, and winding through arangtof
commons by Stoke, almost encircles the village of Oohham, and
proceeds to Esher. Here all the beauty of this river cessefl!, and
it winds through an uninterestiDg 0at to East and West Molesey,
till its oonflttx with the Thames opposite to Hampton Court.
Thia river has long been celebrated for a pecaliarity, which has
been much represented, or misunderstood, even by modem writeiSp
and still more by those of ancient date. *' The Mole/' says
Camden, " coming to White-hill^ (now called Box-hill») hides it-
self^ or is rather swallowed op at the loot of the hill there; and
for that reason the place is called the SwaUow : but about two
mUes bdow it bubbles up and rises again ; so that the inhabitants
of this tract, no less than the Spaniards, may boast of having a
bridge that feeds several flocks of sheep," On this statement
the Rev. Mr. Manning makes the following comment, in which,
he has explained the tme character of the phmnomenon.* " From
this iabniotts account^ plainly founded on an idea suggested by
common report, the reader might be led to imagine that the
river actually disappears, forms a channel beneath the sorfeee of
the earth, and at a certain distance rises again and pursues ita
course %bove-ground. The truth of the matter seems, however,
to be this : The soil, as well under the bed of the river, as be-
neath the sur&ce on each side^ being of a spongy and porous
texture^ and having by degrees become formed into caverns of
different dimensions, admits the water of the river through cer*
tain passsges in the banks and bottom. In ordinary seasons,
these receptacles being full, as not discharging their contents
faster than they are supplied by the river, the current sustains no
diminution : but, in times of drought, the wat^ within these ca^
vems being gradually absorbed, that of the river is drawn off intq
them, aAd in proportion to the degree of drought, the stream
is
History of Siirrf y, Vol. I, Introdoction, p. 3.
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BUEESVk
i« limiiiithf^. In ¥«ry dry immimij tb# oomnl k, in certftin
plaoeB^ tntirdy ezhaoitod^ and the clniiDel remua^ dry^ except
hiere and there a alanding pod. By the hridge at Thoracroft it
riaes again in a strong a^iig ; and after that the coivent ia coaaUiit,
At a place called the Way Pool« 6n the aide of the river next to
Box-biU, the Diethod in nhioh the water ia thua oceaaionally
drawn off is visible to the observer. It has here fiuned a kind
of circolar basin, about thirty feet in diameter, which is sopplied
in the ordinary state of the current by an inlet fitom theriveo two
feet broad and one deep. This iulet being stopped, the water in
ikt basin aeon subsides, and in less than an hour totally diaap*
peara; when the dMums through which it passes off at diflbrent
depths from the upper edge of the basii^ may eaaiiy be disco-
vered/'
From the drcumstance of the river occasionally betaking itself
to these subtorraneeui channels, it probably received the name of
the Mole. In mere anciait times it seems to have been called the
Emlay, ^e tt[^per part of it being known by that name in the 5th
of Edward III. and even so late as the time of Henry VIIL ThU
will alas account tar the origin of the name of the hundred through
the heart of which the river takea its coarse, now, and from the
earHest times, denominated Emley Hundred.
The third and least considerable river in this county is the
Wandle, which, rising near CFoydon, and passing by Bedington,
Caiahalton, Mitcham, and Merton, rana into the Thamea a little
below Wandleaworth, or Wandsworth, to whkh it givea name.
Its origin is small; but at Ctohatton it ia much increased by the
numerous springs which rise in that place; and in its course of
rather more than ten miles, it turns near forty mills of difierent
kinds, and is said to furnish employment for about 2000 people.
Another stream, though of still less magnitude, is w<Hrthy of no-
lice, Ibr supplying seveial gun-powder mills at Ewuil and Maldon,
and a large eorn-miU at Kingston. It rises in a strong pellucid
apring in the town of Ewell, and, proceeding doe north* falls at
lUngstpp into the Thames.
9 A con-
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10 SURREY.
A considerable branch of the Medway rises m the parishes of
Godstoue and Home^ in the sooth-east part of the oonoty ; audi
after receiving an auxiliary stream in the parish of lingfidd,
leaves Surrey and enters Kent.
The river Loddon skirts the county on its west side ; its direc*
tion is nearly north-west by Frimley till it leaves Surrey. Its
waters are employed to supply the Basingstoke canal.
On the wide and desolate heaths in the west part of the county
are several extensive ponds, some of which, as Shire Pond^ be-
tween Chobham and fiyfleet, and another near Frensham, con-
tain not kss than 150 acres. In the south-eastern parts of th^
county also, particularly near Godstone, there are ponds, but of
inferior magnitude. All these are employed for the purpose of
feeding fish for the London market
The nuneral waters of this comity were formerly in high repute,
and some of them were much frequented ; but, principally owing^
to a change in ftishion or opinion, they have now lost their repu-
tation. The springs of this kind are those at Epsom, Cohham,
Strsatham ; the Dog and Duck in St George's Fields; Jessop's
Wells, Comb-hill, Kingston j Dnlwich ; tiie Iron Pear Tree, near
Godstone; Warplesdon, N.ewdigate, Frensham, Witley, Meg's
Well, near Dorking, &c. of the principal of which an account will
be given in the proper place.
The county in general is well furnished with springs ; but in
regard to wells, it is often found necessary to bore to the depth of
dOO feet, before a regular supply of water can be procured. This
IS principally the case on the chalk, but even in other places it is
sometimes requisite to go to the depth of 200 feet
Minerals and fossils.— Iron^re is found in considerable
quantity in the south-west part of the county, about Haslemere^
Dunsfold, and Cranley ; and in the south-east quarter about ling-
field and Home. In most parts of the Weald also this ore pro*
bably exists; but in consequence of the high price of fuel the
iron-works of Sur^ have b^en totally neglected. Ragstone,
containing soms iron, abounds near the junction of the W^lc^
an4
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and the chain of sand-hills to the south of Bleehingly, Reygate,
and Dorking; and is found in smaller quantities dboat Send and
Chobham. Ore also of tolerable purity appears in the sand about
Puttenham and Godstone ; and more or less of it is probably con^
tained in all the sand-hills between those two places.
That useful material^ fuller's earth, is found in great qu'anti*
ties about Nutfield, Reygate, and Blechingly, to the south of the
Downs; and some, but of inferior quality^ north of them, near
Sutton and Croydon. There are two kinds, tiie blue and yellow,
which Sre used fov different purposes; the latter being chiefly
employed in fiolling the finer cloths of Wiltshire and Gloucester*
shire, and the former sent into Yorkshire fo? the coarser manu-
fectures. It is not known how long this earth has been dog in
Surey ; the oldest pit now wrought is said to have lasted fifty or
sixty years, and is fast wearing out It is thought that the de-
mand ibr the fuller's earth of this county will be affected by the
recent discoyery of a pit of the yellow, or more valuable kind,
near Maidstone, in Kent The price at the pits is about six shil-
lings a ton, which, at the London wharfs, fetches about twenty*
&fe or twenty-six shillings.
Jn the neighbourhood of Godstone, Gatton, Merstham, Reygate,
and Blechingly, are extensive quarries of stone of a peculiar qua-
lity. This stone, especially that dug near Merstham, is at first
soft, and incapable of beuing the action of a damp atmosphere;
but after being kept under cover for a few months, its texture
becomes so compact, that it can resist the heat of a common fire ;
and in consequence of this property it is in very general demand
for fire-places in London and its neighbourhood, where it is sold
at about one shilling and six^nce the cubic foot. On the White
Hills Qear Blechingly, the stone is of a somewhat different qua-
lity, and considerably more valuable. It is softer than that horn
tlie other quarries, and was once much used by chemists, bakers,
and glass manufiicturers, but is now principally employed by the
latter, who have been enabled by means of it to produce plate-
fflass of much larger dimensions than formerly. These stones
are
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19 SUBEBY.
aie piaeorad of tbnoct 6Y€ry Au, mbm coiiluiiiBg aot leat Ham
•eveaty-lwo Mperficial fe«t, of ten iacbeo thiek.*
lArge ^airioi of luBe-atoae noar Dodkiiig afibid Hme equal ia
purity and strength to any ia tbe kingdom. It ia parlienlariy
seiTiceable for w«ka under water, aad waa ea^loyod in the oon*
atruetion of th* Weat-India and Wapping-Dodu. liaieatone is
alao dug and burnt at GknUfetd, Sntten, and Canhnlton.
Chalk b very abundant in Smtey, and is m general use aa a
manure. There are dialk-pttn at Croydon, Sulton, Epsom, l^e*
therhead, Rookham, Effingham^ Horaky, Clandon, Stoke, Guild*
ford, and Pattenham, on the nortli aids of the Devns; and at
Godatone, Cater ham, Reygate, Heratham, Buckland, and Belch*
worth, on the south aide; besides otkers of less extent and note.
Coal is said to have been formerly found in diflSffent distrieta of
Surrey, particularly in or near the pariah of Cranley, and in tha
parish of Warplesdon. Aabvey, in hia History, gives the leaoh
of an attempt to dUsoover ooal in the tatter, whidi proved soo«
cessful ; but unfortunately in boring, when the weriunen came to
the coal, " as &ai as the ifona were pnt in they would snap off;
and this was thought by Mr. Lilly, the astrologer, to be by tim
subterranean spirits/'f donbtless exasperated at being thus wvi-
tonly diaturbed in their profound retreats.
The sand about Taaridge, Dofking, and Reygate, is in great
re%ueBt for hoar-glasses, writing, and a variety of purpoaea; that
about the latter town is thought to be uneqaalled in the kingdom
for purity and colour.
In Camden's time there were pits of jet near Okewood. An*
brey makea no mention of this fossil; but, in a letter preixed ta
hia History, Evdyn says, that there were then " pita of jeate
in the skirtaof the parish of.Wotton, near Snsso.'' Atpresettt
there is no i^ipeannce of it.
Bride-earth is feand ia most parts of the county, but iaierior
in qudity to that of Middlesex. At Nonsuch, in the parish of
Cheam, is a paiticularly valuabte bedL from which are amde ire-
bricks*
^ Mdcoha^a ^nrrcj. Vol. L p. 48« t Aubrey's Seney, Vol. III. p. 3t7.
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•tnuuit. IS
hndu, SB iiMfj aie imomouM, from their property of xmMng
Statb of propsbtt. — ^Tbere are ne very large estates b S«ir«
rey. The most estensire does not mveh exoeed 10,0001 per animal,
and hot few approach to that annual rent The yeomanry are by
no means so num^ons as in the adjoining ooonty of Kent; though
in the western division nmnd OniidfiMd, and in some parts of the
Weald, there are sercral gentlenien who &mi their own estKtes
at from 2001. to 4001. per annom.
The size of farms dso in Sorrey may he considered as rather
small than large, the most extensive oomprehending 1000 acres;
there are a few others from MO to 1900 ; but the most common
site is from 900 to 900. Many, however, are below that standard ;
and Maleohn reckons that 170 acres may bo assumed as the fair
average of the eovnty.
The tenvres are principally freehold. Most of the farms are
let on leases, the duration of which is generally ibr twenty-one
years, though some are only for seven or feuvteen. A few are
lett Ibr three lives ; but there are many extensive ftrms which are
held without a lease from year to year, entirety at the will of the
landlwd : and this custom is rslher upon the increase.
The rents» excepting in that part of the ooanty which lies
within the influence of the London markets, amy be deemed low.
In the clays of the Weald many farms are lett ibr ten shillinga per
acre, and few of them reach twenty (killings. The elay land in
the other parts of the county is lett from fifteen to twenty shil-
lings : the rents run about the same on the chalks ; but the best
kinds, that is, the hazle loam and the rich sandy loams near
GodaimiBg, prodoea from twenty*fivo to thurty shillingB, In the
vicinity of London rents rise considerabiy ; at the distance of
seven or eight miles they are from two pounds to three pounds ;
and stiH nearer the metropolis, the ground that is possessed in
small quantities by cow*keepers and nursery-men, letts for six
pounds, eight pounds, and even ten pounds per acre.
BuiiDnfOS.-— Few counties in the kingdom can vie with Sur-
rcy
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14 SURRBY*
rey in Ihe number and elegfanoe of Ike gead^lBeii'B ieats wUdi it
contains. In regard to the farm-houBes^ a atriking difierence ap«
pears In di&rent districts. In the Yale, or Weald^ of Suney
they are too often mean and ruinous, and certainly justify tha
remark, that from the condition of the farm-honses and oflicea^
the state of agricolture may be safely Inferred. In the otker
parts of the county they are In general sofficiedtly large and con*
yenient, in good repair, and kept neat and dean* The oldest are
built entirely of brick, and mostly covered irith large heavy
slate-stone I and many are constructed of a framing of wood
lathed and plastered^ or rough-cast Some of the bams have
day walls; but they are commonly of timber placed on a feonda-i
tion of brick or stone. They are large and commodious, as are
also the stables ; but in regard to the latter, a general practice
prevails throughout the county of not making proper divisions
between the horses4 The disadvantages of this mode of con«
struction are too obvious to require enumerating. Such fiurmers
as lie near the chalk are careful to bottom their fiirm-yards, and
line their drinking-pools with that material. The cottages are in
general sufficiently laiige and convenient for the class of persona
by whom they are occupied; and a small piece of ground for
growing vegetables ia commonly attached to them. Upon the
whole, the buildings of the ftumers in Surrey may be conaidered
equal in point of goodness to those of most other counties, and
perhaps not less convenient than such as are to be found in dis-
tricts where agricultural improvement has not made greater pro^
gress,*
POOA HATKS KVD STATE OF THB POOR. — ^Thc poOT-ffateS in
this county vary exceedingly in diffisrent parts. In 1803 the
lowest rate was 8d. and the higheat 18s. in the pound; the ge»e«
ral average of the county being Sm. 8d. Bdbre the pnaperty-tax
took place the general proportion in most parts of this county
was two-thirds, and such it continues in the himdreds of Wokingi
Blackheath, Godalmiog, and the town of Gaildfoid; but in the
•8l«TMuoii'f AgiicttltMsl Smmf, p. 9%
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temaiDdeFi particvlarly in the hundreds of Kingston^ Blmbridge,
tteygale, Tanridge^ and Wallington, the parishes^ since the pas-
sing of that act, hare been assessed at the rack rental.
From the abstract of the returns of the expense of the mainteK
nance of the poor made to the House of Commons in 1803, it
appears that those returns "vere given in from 151 parishes or
places. Ninety-nine of these maintain all, or part, of their poor»
in work-houses; the number of persons so maintained during the
year ending Easter 1803, was 5268, at an expense of 75,1051.
The number of persons maintained out of workhooses at the same
time was 30,870, besides 6875 who were not parishioners. The
expense incurred for their maintenance was 58,7351. The expen-
diture in law, removals^ and overseers' charges, amounted to
8535L ; and the sum of 16111. was laid out in purchasing mate^
rials for employing the poor. The paupers of eighteen parishes
were farmed or maintained under contract; and those of seven
others were maintained and employed under the regulations of
special acts of P^liament
Two hundred and sixty friendly societies have been enrolled at
the quarter-sessions pursuant to the acts passed in the thirty -third
and thirty.fifth George III. ; and there are sixteen female friendly
societies, containing 1845 members.
Agriculture. In regard to agricultural improvement Surrey
may be considered as behind many other districts of Great Britain.
The arable land far exceeds the proportion of pasture ; but, as
Mr. Stevenson remarks, '' in a county where the soils are so vefy
various, and where so little of system prevails, it is impossible
by any general observations, or remarks, to give an adequate ai^
just idea of the rotation of crops that prevails even in any con-
siderable district of the county.'' * The leading principle of mo-
dem husbandry, that in no case except under very particular
ctrcnmstances, ought two com, or white crops, to succeed each
other, seems to have been not long adopted, and to be making
its way, though perhaps but slowly, in most parts of the county.
The
* Agricnttora! Survey of Surreyi p, 179.
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16 iraEET.
the drill tinaiMiidry has not kiani many firiloiran in Batnj,
accept in the wert part of the oonnty, about Bagahot» Ether,
Send, Gehham, and Ripley, where it is yery general. The pro«
duoe of wheat is from two to five, and sometimes six qnarters an
acre, and that <^hariey from ibnrto seven and a half. The latter
is nsed only for malting, for which purpose it is reckoned eqnal in
quality to any in the kingdom.
The olimate of Sorrey seettis to be less fiiTonrable to oats than
to iriieat or barley. As the former is often grown on fonlland, the
produce is sometimes very low, not exceeding three quarters per
acre ; but when sown on clean ley, or after turnips, it frequently
yields from six to eight quarters.
Garden pease and beans are cnltirated in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the metropolis, and the sandy loams near the Thames
about Mortlake ; while the field varices of both are extensively
grown in most other parts of the connty, and especially on the
chalk-hills.
There is every reason to presume, that tnrnips have been
raised in the fields in this county as long as in any other dis-
trict of England. Sir Richard Weston of Sutton, in his " l>t-
rectims for the Tmprwemeni &f Barren Lmid/* first published
in 1650, gives a very clear and foil account of the mode ni
raising turnips, practised in Flanders and Brabant^ and strongly
recommends the culture of them to his countrymen. It is not
improbable, that his book might have been the means of intnK>
ducing this nsefol root to the notice of the farmers of Surrey, by
whom it has been largely cultivated beyond the memory of the
•Meat inhabttants *. It is always sown, as strong objections
against
* Mr. Rent is certainly iooorrecr, when he assert^ in hit Survey of Nor*
Ibik, that the tamip hotbandiy was tntrodaced into that ooontj by Lord
Townsbend, who had witnesMd the advantages derived from it in Hanover,
whither he accompanied Georse I. ; lor it appears from Campbell's Politieal
Survej of Great Britain, that the coltare uf the turnip was not then established
there, as George II. caused an abstract of the Norfolk syitem of cnlcivatiog it
to he drawn np lor the use of his Hanoveriui snigects. -
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itiUbig pif«ftfl b ibis ctmnty. Wfcen 8ot3 tole drawn
off the fteU, twm t«n to twelve goineafl per acre are very com«
lK>i^ girea ky oow-feeders i wbere thcfy are bmiched frr market^
they tttty be reckoned worth 401. per acre. Most of tbe fiirmer^
wbo grow any qaaniity of tbe common tomip bare also several
aeRneftheSwedisbkittd.
Tbe rbisiag of cabbages is confined to Ae msiket and fiBurming-
gardeners, and eow-keepers in tbe immediate vicinity of tbe metro*
^lis.
Carrots are hirgely grown in tbe nortbem part of Surrey west*
^ranl ^the Mole, ^tbiety fur the London market, being very sel-
dom given to eatll^. When sold upon tbe ground they generally
feteh ffom 161. to 5941. per acre.
Potatoes are not a common erop, except in tbe neighbourhood
of tbe metropolis, especially in the parishes of Mitcbam, Toot*
lag, Streathaai, and the new enclosure of Norwood Forest. The
fops are frequently cut by tbe cow-keepers to be given to cattle
when other (bod becomes scarce. When sold by the acre, which
yields from eight to ten tons, they vary in price from twelve to
twenty pounds.
Surrey was one of the first, if not tbe very first, district in Eng-
land in wbieb clover i^ cultivated. We are. told by Aubrey that
H was iafrodue^ in 164ff, by Sir Rkhard Weston of Sutton, and
Aat be brought it from Flanders, or Brabant Trefoil is sometimen
•own lere with red clover.
Sainfoin is very extensively grown across the whole county,
from the borders of Kent to those of Hampshire, large tracts of
tbe chalky ridge being covered with its valuable herbage. The
greatest part of it is made into hay.
Very little lucern is sown, a few fiurmers only having finir or
five acreafor g^reen crops.
Hops are largely cultivated about Famham, wbere they occupy
about 900 aores, tbe produce of which fetches a higher price than
that of any other bop«district in tbe kingdom.
Vol. XIV. C Woad
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18 SItUBlk
,.Woad is found to answer remaiieal^y weH on Ike chalk hilfe
near Bansted Downs, and is generally sown with barley.
It is conoeived, that a greater quantity of land is employed in
raising physical planta in this county than in any^ other in
England. Those whidi are grown to. the greatest extent aiw
peppermint, lavender, wormwood, chamomile, anitiead) lii|aorice^
and-poppy. . With these and other plants for the droggista and
perfumers, upwards of 250 acres are Occnpied in the parish oC
Mitcham alone, and about 100 more in other adjoining parts of the
county.
Surrey .has a much smaller proportion of gras6*land tiiaa moel
other counties in England. By far the greater part, and the moat
valuable of the meadow-iand, lies along the banks of the Thames
in the north-west division ; in the parishes of Oxted, Taaridge,
Liugfield, Crowhnrst, in the south-east division; on the banks
of the Mole, near Cobham ; and on the banks of the Wey, near
Godalming. There is also some meadow-lai^d in the north-east
corner, near the metropolis; but in the .Weald, where most graea
would be expected, tlie proportion both of meadow and pastnre m
the smallest.
With respect to dairy -grounds there may be said to be iione in
Surrey, though there is reason to brieve that it formerjy sup-
plied a small part of the butter consumed in.. London. The
greatest extent of pasture-land lying togeth^ is oft the estate of
the Duke of Norfolk in the parishes of Newdigate and Chart*
wood.
• It is calculated, that the whole quantity of garden-greund in
Surrey employed in raising vegetables for the London market
amounts to about 3500 acres, being, according to Middleton, nearly
as much as in the three counties of Middlesex, Kent, and Essex.
Some of the Surrey gardens are particularly diatingaished for
asparagus, which is grown in great quantities, and of excellent
quality in the parishes of Mprtlake, East Sheen, and Batlciwea.
Ill the latter much of the garden-ground is employed in raiaing*
ve^^etables for seed.
t The
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SVRftST. 19
The district 4f Sumy most remarkable for its timber is' tbat
4BaUed the Weald, which borders on Sussex, and wfaseh thiere is
Mason to believe was at some former period covered entiiely iKth
wood. The woodlands in the other parts of the county, particn*
larly on the ehalk*hills, contafin in general a greater proportiott
of coppioe, and fewer timber-trees than those of the Weald* The
most common kinds of timber are oak^ beech, walnut, ash, elmy box,
yew, birch, fir, larch, andnmple; besides which, thelindeand
chesnot are iband about gentlemen's seats.
It cannot but appear surprising, that a oonnty so near the me<
tn^lis should oontain such a prodigious quantity of waste land
as Surrey. Before some recent enclosures it was generally com*
puted, that one-sixth of the county lay in this unprofitable state.
WilJiin the last fifteen or twenty years, one-seventh of the wastes,
amounting to 12,000 acres, has been enclosed* There yet remains
in heaths 48,180 acres, of which Bagsbot Heath occupies 3l«a00 ;
in commons 17,410, and in common fif^lds 8,350; making a
total of 73,940 acres. Almost all the heaths, as Mr. Stevenson
lemarks*, might be planted with every prospect of success, and
there are very few of the commons which would not bear good
crops of com. ,
The vicinity of the northern parts of Surrey to the metropolis,
and the &cility of conveyance, afford the &rmers an opportunity
of procuring from London a variety of substances to be employed
as manure. At a greater distance, besides the produce of their
own &rm-yards, they have no other substitute than lime or chalk,
which is furnished in great abundance by the quarries on either
side of the high Downs which run across the centre of - the
county. The application of chalk is very genera}, except in the
immediate neighbourhood of Londpn and the Weald^ for the teugh
cold clays of which lime is considered more proper. The applica-
tion of chalk was formerly confined to the stronger lands ; but it
has latterly been applied with equal, if not greater, eflbct to the
C2 light
* Agrio of Sjirre/f 457.
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Hglit hutm, aid €f?en to the naady Mib. Ob mck frna 6 to dlM^
knskeb an aere afefreqoeaftly laid*
Fkom apasMgie in Anbrey'ft Hktory it i^pean that imgatio*
iraa ptactised in this county by Sir Richard Woston^ bdbro th#
■uddtoofthoiOfeiitoeathoeBtury. The amailqnantityirf' meadow-
land, and the sitaation of mnch of it, p^venta {hit operation fWiift
bihi|^ either general or common r added to which, the waters of
one of its principal rirers, the Wey« are not favourahle to tlm
practice, as one of its chief branches brings down immense
qnantities, of sand from the hilb near Godalming, and rather in*
jnres, than benefits, the meadows over which it is flooded. Iv
the soQth«east eoraer of the county irrigstion appears to bare
Ibnnerly prevailed in a greater degree, and to have had more at4
tsntiott paid to it than at present At Cobhain, Byfleet, Clan*
don, and a few other places in the western division, a lew watm
may here and there be seen irrigated on the banks of the Mdeandl
theWey.
In regard to cattle there seems to be no particnlar breed thai
Surrey can claim as its own.
The horses usually employed by the ftrmer are in general large»
heavy, and black.
According to the statemeats given by Mr. Middleton in him
Survey of Middlesex, out of 8^00 cows kept for tiie supply of
l4>ndon with miOc, Surrey supports only about €00. These aie
alnmst exdunvely of the short-homed, or'Holdemess hteed. By
gentlemen's Hunilies the Jersey, Aldemey, and Suflblk, breeds are
often kept, and by the fiurmers at a distance from the metre^lis,
the Welsh, I>evon8hire, Sussex, and Staflbrdshire : the last of
which are in many places very common and much esteemed. The
ohalk hills of Surrey are considered by Marshall as the boundary
between the long and middle^homed breed. The same writer
charactcriies the cattle on the heaths of this county as small
and mean-loeking ; " yet,'* says he, ^ they must be of^ a quality
intrinsicaliy good, or they could not exist on so bare a pasture.
Their
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gCRaET. at
Their bone is in general remarkably fine. In horn, eoldnr* anl
thinneas of carcaae, many of them resemble so much the ordinary
long-homed breed, that there can be little doubt of their being
•ne and the aame race *«
The rearing of calves fi>r the London market was once a &^
Yonrite and profitable employment in the centre of the county;
imt from various causes this practice is on the dedine, or at least
is not carried on to any great extent, except in the more re-
mote parts about Chobham and Bagshot* and in some districts of
the Weald.
Most of the cattle ftttened for the butcher in Surrey are in the
Aands fit the great distillers in the vicinity of London, The num«
fter annually purchased for this purpose by Messrs. Hodgson and
€o. of Battersea is from 400 to 500. Many of the gentlemen
and fitfmers also occasionally fatten a few oxen ; but none of them
to sach an extent as Mr, Adam of Mount Nod, or Mr. Coles of
Norbnry. The buildings of the former, constructed with particn-
lar attention to convenience, are sufficient to accommodate 600
bead of cattle.
Oxen were some y^rs since worked by many farmers, but very
few are now used in harness.
In the eentml and weston parts are bred great numbers of sheep.
It is but lately that much attention has here been paid to the breed
of this useful animal. In the memory of persons still living the
large Wiltshire entirely occupied the sheep-iarms on the chalk-
hills, while a singular breed of small ill-formed sheep exclusively
possessed the extensive western heaths, which they, though not
in so pure a state as formerly, still continue to occupy. At pre**
sent, besidea the Wiltshire and Bagshot sheep, the Dorsetshire^
South Down, Somerset, or Mendip, the Berkshire, the Romney,
imd the Merino South Down, are kept The South Down, Wilt*
shire, and Dorsetshire, are by fiir the most common. The latter
are kept for early lambs ; the Wiltshire are by some preferred for
th^ Mi^ and the Soutii Down for the butcher and their wool. A
C3 cross
• MaitbsU*» Soatb. Count IL 85.
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\
^t SURREY.
cross of the Merino and South Down^ and of the Ryland Meriotf
and South Down^ is kept hy many of the gentlemen, and by some
of the fanners in Surrey ; and from the success which has at-
tended the trials^ especially of the latter cross, there is reason
to believe that they will gradually supplant the pure^ Sooth Down,
wherever the soil and situation are adapted for them *•
Neither the South Down nor the Bagshot sheep are often found
quite unmixed. A pure heath sheep is a remarkably ugly crea^
lure, with very large horns, and seldom weighs more than 8 lbs*
per quarter.
A few years since Surrey was much celebrated for the number
and excellence of the house-lambs, sent from different parts of it
to the London market; hut latterly not near so many are reared,
and the practice seems to be gradually removing to the more dis-
tant parts of the county, whence it wOl probably be transferred to
districts still more remote from the metropolis. About Ewel,
Esher, and Walton, however, there are still formers whp rear a
considerable number of house^lambe ; but, from the increase in the
price of labour, and in the first cost of the ewes, the profits of this
branch of business are greatly diminished. Dorsetshire ewes alone
are employed for this purpose.
Immense numbers of hogs were formeriy fed at the distilleries
in the ncigbourhood of London ; but it has of late years been
found more profitable to fatten oxen, though great supplies are
still sent both from the distilleries and the starch-manufactories
in this county to the victualling-office. They come from different
parts of England, principally from Berkshire, Shropshire, and the
East Riding of Yorkshire ; but the breed of the former seems to
be generally preferred. Most of the farmers also keep hogs, in
greater or less numbers, of the Berkshire and China breed*. Rudg-
wick, on the borders of Sussex, is remarkable for a breed of swine
that fatten to an enormous size. Some of them have attained 1 16
stone, and 80 or 90 is n<^ uncommon weight
Pf poultry great numbers of geese are kept on the oommonSy
especially
^ Steveiuoa*! Surrey, p. 5t7,
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SVftHET. 93
especially in the Weftld. The DorkiDg breed of fowls is well
known: they are large^ handsome, and perfectly white, distin*
guished by having five claws on each foot, and are not now un*
common in gentlemen's poultry-yards in different parts of the
kingdom.
Surrey contains few rabbit-warrens, though they would cer*
lainly be profitable in the heathy districts in the west of the
cottnty. Near- Bansted Downs is a hare-warren containing about
Ihrise acres, in which 200 bmce are usually kept. In summer they
are fed on clover, rape, &c. and in winter on hay. The warren is
mnronndedby a brick wall, about ten feet high, with openings
at' regular distances, within which are wire-gratings on hinges ;
these give way to the hares when they enter the warren, and are
so constructed, that they immediately close after them, and prevent
their escape.
In regard to the implements of agriculture Surrey seems to
have none that it can claim as peculiarly its own, if we except a
machine for taking smut out of wheat, contrived by Mr. W. Hall,
miller of Ewell, which is described by Stevenson* as nearly re-
sembling that used for dressing flour. It consists of a cylinder
perforated with small holes ; furnished in tlie inside with a great
number of brushes, which are drive^i round with great rapidity.
The wheat is put into the cylinder, and the constant friction
occasioned by the rapid motion of the brushes effectually separates
the smutty grain, which is driven out by the holes of the cylin-
der.*
Roads. The turnpike roads of this county in general are not
distinguished Ibr. excellence, or judicious management. The
badness of many of tliem is ascribed to various causes, as, the
want of a proper foundation ; too flat a form ; neglect in suffer-
ing the water to stand upon them, and not scraping off the mud
in winter, and the dust in summer ; and the height of the hedges,
and the overhanging of timber, which prevent the free circulation
pf the air. To these causes may be added the unfitness of the
C 4 s material
* Agric. Sorr. 241.
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ft4 SUREST.
ntterial eniployed in theyr fqranlioiiy pftiwiirtiBg |ri wp«llf #C I
small flinty gravel, which is soon ground tofow^^. The Isigor I
flints, nhioh abound on the hills, might be ^plied tp this piapo«^ I
with great adyantage. The cross roads are good on tbehiUs^Ml i
in some other parts of the county ; but on the days of the Wftli^
on the sands, and on the low tract near the Itumei^ they aps wry
indifferent
The Surrey iron rail-way ^nem Wsn^aweslh to Ckoyden ww
first projected in 1808, and Is the first inst^nee eC the tumMm
of roads of l^is kind for general nse. It w«8 soon completed;
nod the suGceas of the undertaking indueedthe piopeielonifo ex*'
tend it to Itfervstham : but, on acopunt of the inequalities ef. the
ground passed oyei in this second part, it proved a work of giMft -
labour, difficulty, and expense. The breadth of the read whieh
is occupied by the going and returning railways, and a feot«palhk
Is twenty-four fee^ and the rise is one inch to every teo feet.
The distance by the.jrail-way from Wandsworth to Groydenia
shout ten miles, and from the latter town to Msrstham about .
seven. Mr. Stevenson observes, that this road doea not appear
to be much psed ; neither is it prohMde thst it wiU ever pome inta •
general use« The expenses attending the formation of them in
enormous, and the advantages, and consequently the gain, am
confined to carriage in one direction. The part from Wandsworth
to Croydon lies pear |u> many extensive manu&ctnres, thst it may
possibly answer; but the division from Croydon toMersthamnuu
ning through a tract destitute of manuiactureSj, and having only
lime, fulleis' earth, stone, and com, to depend on at the ferther
^tremily, can neyer pay very well *, A large .b|udn capable o#
holding
* A carioiB tiperiment on the facility of drsagbt wu made on thia rail,
way Jsly S4^' %905» whon one hofte drew twelve loaded waggoiu, each
WOghing ftbave three tons, fron Merathsm to Croydon, a dtstsnee of sis
iniles in one hour and forty^one minutes. Foor asove waggons were sftet'^ .
wards attached and monnted by fifty laboor«rs, and with this prodifions timnt
the animal proceeded without di£|cait^. The tplsl weight thus dnwa WM
tf7-(ve uin^ si4 cwt, two ^rs,
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monr tkta llurly Wges has been md« at Wandsworth
Jbr Ibe foipose of ftimiiig a oammimicatiOD betwesn the Thames
aad the railway.
Oana^ls. There is good reason to believe that the first loeks
erected in this kingdom were those on the Wey. This eontri-
vanoe was brov^ht from the Netherlands between 1645 and 1690^
by Sir Richard Weston of Sutton, to whom, as we have seen, this
comity is indebted fer several improvements. Under his directioa
ihe flan for making the Wey navigable from Guildford to Wey-
hridge was larmed; but, though an act fiw that purpose passed ia
1651, it was net earned into execution till towards the end of the
oentoiy. In 1760, the navigation was extended to Godalming,
BMween that place and Guildford there are four locks; the navi*
gstum sepamtes from the course of the river a little below Purfoid
l^odge.
The next canal made in Surrey was that which runs from Ba»
aiflgsloke to the Thames, and is principally fed by the little river
Loddon, thai divides this county from Hampshire. It passes
fi«mk the latter into Surrey near Dradbrook, thence turns up tO|
Cdingley Moor, and returns by Pirbright and Oak Farm, into the
river Wey, near the village of Westby. From Dradbrook to the
Wey, a distance of fifteen miles, it has a hX\ of 195 feet This
.eaml was completed and made navigable to London in 1796; the
principal article conveyed upon it is timber.
The Surrey canal, fer which an Act of Parliament was obtained
ia 1861, eommvtticates with the Thames by means of a dock at
Rotherhithe, capable of containing about 100 sail of square*
rigged vessels. The nmin line passing from the dock at first runs
neatly in a south direction to the west of Deptford, and thence, ia
awestline, crosses theKent,CamberweU, and Clapham> roads, and
again enters the Thames at Vanxhall Creek. The whole of this,
nnge of eight miles is on one level, without a lock. The upper
lines of this canal pass near Clapham and Tooting to Mitcham.
The Croydon wmi w^ first projected in 1800, and the Act fof^
. . it
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M SOftUT.
it obtained Uie Moiriiig year. It is carried from Ooydoo^
throngh the north-west comer of the oonnty of Kent^ and is in-
tended to* enter the Surrey canal in the parish ef D^tML
The estimate of the expense of constracting this canal given in
hy Mr. Rennie anoont^ to 64,1001.
MANur ACTUREs. Though Sorrey cannot by any means he dor
nominated a mannfitetnring county, yet from its vicinity to the
metropolis, and the convenience of its streams for the erection of
mills, several manu&ctures of importance are established in it
As these will be noticed in the places to which th^ respectively
belong, it would be superfluous to enter into an enumeration of
them here ; but it may be generally observed, that most, if |iot all,
of these manufrctures being in a great measure independent «if the
flttctuatioQS of trade, are free from some of the moat serious and
increasing evils attendant on the manufteturing system ia many
other parts of the kingdom.
FouEST. Under the Norman race of kings a large portion
of this county was reserved as part of the demesnes of the crown,
and experienced the effects of that extraordinary passion hr the
chaoe, which possessed those princes* Under Henry II. the
limits of Windsor Forest were gradually extended by the en*
closure of his marors in Surrey, till at length he had afforested
the whole county. Richard, his son and successor, soon fimnd
himself obliged, by the general disgust which this innovation had
excited, to undo in part what his father had been 90 anxious to
accomplish. In the first year of his reign he consented to dis*
afforest the county from the riyer Wey eastward, and from Guild-
. ford Down southward, whiph amounted to no less than about
three-fourths of it : and his charter for this purpose was con«
firmed by King John, What remained forest upon the footing
of this chatter was called the BaUMwitdc of Surrey, as being et«
empted from the jurisdiction of the sheriff, and subject to that
of its own bailiff alone. It contained the paridite and townships
of Chobham, Bisley, Horshill^ Pyfleet, Purford^ Wanboroagh,
Pirbrifht^
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StTRItfiT. 37
f lArighty Ash, Winaiaham, Tongham, WarpIetdoB, Woking'^
and Stoke. Witiiia tiie same jurisdiction also lay Cheitsejr,
Cgham, and Thorpe; hnt these, being the estates of the Abbejr
of Chertsey, were not subject to the bailiff's jurisdiction. King
j John, we are told, '' followed the example of his brother and fa*
ther in afforesting the lands of his subjects, so that the forests
were every where so much enlarged, that the greatest part of the
kingdom was turned into forests; the boundaries whereof were
80 large, and the laws so very severe, that it was impossiUe for
any man who lived within these boundaries to escape the dan*
ger : and thus it continued till the 17th year of his reign, A. D.
1215/' * By this time the business of aArestation had become
Bb general a grievance, that several of the nobility and gentry
petitioned the king, among other things, that all the new afifores*
lations made by him and his predecessors might be disif orested.
The king, though unwillingly, complied, and this produced the
Great Charter and the Charter of the Forests, stipulated for at
Rnnnemead, in 1315. John ought in consequence to have dis*
afibrested that part of the county which his brother had left a
forest; but, probably owing to his death, in the following year,
nothing of the kind was done till the charter granted by his son
and successor Henry HI, in the 9th year of his reign. With re^
gard to Surrey, this grant amounted to a disaflbrestation of the
whole except the park of Guildford, and notwithstanding the at^
tempts of Edward I. and II. to set it aside, the commons of the
eounty maintained the rights which it conferred witii such per<»
severance, that in the first year of Edward III. they obtained a
fon confirmation of the above charter. The revival of the roya)
pretensions in the 7th year of Charles I. were not more success^
ful, and served only to render the just claims of the people on
this head more notorious, and the privileges they enjoyed under
that charter more substantial and complete. From this period
Ihat part of the county, known since the time of Richard I. by the
||/0e of the Bailiwick of Surrey, is to be reckoned purlieu of the
forest
* Manwood, p. 243,
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aw tumuT.
finrttsiaBly^ in whick Ike king «tiU has a ligkl and property o?er
kia deer eacapinginto it, againal every man,, except tke ewnen of
the wooda, or landa, in wkick tkey are ibond, bat wkiek ia en-
empted from tke geneni lawa of tke foreat» and tke ordinary jv^
riadictioa; and ao fiur free and open to att ownera of land wilbi^
tke aame, aa tkat> under certain limitalkmi^ tkey may cbaae and
kill any of the deer aetoally firand tkerein*
. For tke better preaerration of tke deer ao eeeaping into the
purlien, the king kaa in e?ery aadi place a ranger, wko ia Mf^
pointed by lettera patent, and wkoae office it ia to reohaae and
driye back again tke wild beaata of tke foreat,. aa crflen aa Ikey
ahall range ont of the aame into kia pnrlien.
The preaent ranger of the foreat in ikia pnrlieo, ia the Hononr*
able Thomaa Onflow, eldeat aon oi Earl Onalow, to whom, ia
kia official capacity, belonga FangroTo Lodge liear Gkertaqr**
Roman btations, emcampmentc, koads, &c— Wken it ia
considered tkat Surrey liea contiguona to tke capital of the Roman
settlements in Britain, and tkat tkia district waa traveraed by the
roads which led from tke aontk and east coasts of tke islandts
tkat capital, it will not appear auiprising tkat nttmerooa remvns
of those conquerors skoold kayo been discoTcred witkin its limits.
Thougk there ia no positive evidence that tkia diatrict contained
any permanent atationa, yet tkere are atrong preaamptive proofc
of tke exiat^ee of auck atationa at Kingaton on tke Tkamea^ and
at Woodcote near Croydon, wkick ia apparently on very good
grounds, considered by Camden and Honley aa tke Noviamagui
of Ptolemy.
In.St. George's Fields, Soutkwark, wkere amny Roman coina
and pavenients have at different timea been found, waa tke centra
of aeveral Roman waya. One of these waa the Ermine Street^
wkick ran nearly parallel to, and at a very amall distance to the
eastward of, the pi«Mnt turnpike road, through Cliq[»ham, Tooting,
Merton, Ewell, and Epaom, to Ashted; and then proceeded ii|
H^ly a sottthem direction acroas Micklehani Down, where it ia
* Mvuuuc'iSiiRey, Vol I, .Utrodoctiga.
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BURRET. S§
USA piunly TisiMe to Dorking. From Dorking it was oontinaed
along « remarkable ridge of hill, leaying Gaiidferd about a mile
<»n the north, to Famham; beyond which town It entered the adja«
cent county of Hampshire.
The StoM Street, or Stone Street Caoseway, a branch of the
Ermine Street, commences at Dorking, and passing through tbe'
ehvrch*yard, where remains of tt have often been discovered' in
digging graves, it may be clearly traced thnmgh the parish of
Ockley, tiH it eaters tite county of Sussex in Its progress south*
maii to the city of Chichester. Another Roman military way
beginning at the metropolis, and likewise known by the name
of the Stcme Street, intersected the county near its eastern bor*
der from north to south, and has been traced through Stretham«
Chroydon, Conkdon, Caterham, and Godstone; till it enters
Sussex, where it is continned *titrough Lindfield to Shore^
I of Roman encampments are found on Holmbury hill,
ui the parish of Ockley, about two miles from the western Stane
Street; and on Bottle hiD, in the parish of Warlmgham, near
liie eastern military way which bears tike same denomination ; but
the most extensive work of this kind, is that of St George's
hiH, Walton on the Thames. Here Caesar seems to have encamp-
ed previoisdy to his having crossed the Thames at Cbway Stakes,
thus named from tike sub-aquatte contrivance of the Britons to
obstruct his passage, some vestiges of which exist to this day;
M Walton on tiie Hill, also, great quantities of Roman bricks
and other relics, discovered within an inclosure of earth-work,
BMtfk the site of edifices belonging to the same people, the foun-
dations and arrangement of some of which have been traced:
Lastiy on Blackheath, in the parish of Aldbury, are the remains
of a Roman temple, surrounded with .embankments.
Vestiges of various other works, unquestionably designed foi'
mtRtary purposes, are to be found in different parts of the coun-
ty. Some of these, as Hanstie Bury, on a projection of Leitir
kUl, about feur miles south of Guildford^ and the fortification on
War
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aO SURREY.
War Coppice bilt in Caterlnai, ue atcribei to the Dano^ bet
the origin of others, such as the small camp on a common in the
parish of Effingham, lately enclosed, it is impossible to deter-
mine.
OSNERAt BISTORT*
The first inhabitants of this connty, of whom we have any
information that can be relied on, were the 8q;ontiaei, mginally
a people of Belgium, whose first settlements in Britain, were in
the west of Hampshire; from which proTince, howerer, they
were obliged to retire eastward on the arrrral of another colony
of the same nation. In process of time, such of them as had beea
left in Hampshire retired to the main body, sod thus they all be»
came confined within the tract forming the present counties of Sur«
rey and Sussex. Such was their sitoation in the time of Ptolemy,
by whom they are denominated RegnL
On the dirision made by the Romana during their dominion
oirer the island, this dbtrict constituted part of the proTinoe of
Britannia prima, or the portion southward of the Thames and
Serem. On the new partition of the country which took place
after the arrind of the Saxons, and ui known by the appellation
of the heptarchy, this county formed with Sussex a distinct state,
under the title of Suth^Seaxna^rice, or kingdom of the South
Saxons. It was founded by Ella about the year 491, and had its
own monarchs till 726, when it was subdued by Ina, King of Wes*
sex; On the division of England into shires, this district, fifem its
situation on the south side of the Thames, receiyed the name of
Sutkrea, or StUhrie, since changed to its present appellation of
Surrey.
On the invasion of the island by the Danes, Surrey, as well as
others of its provii|ces, was dreadfully ravaged by those harba*
rians, till their leader, having gradually subdued the whole king*
dom, seated himself on the British throne. William the Conque<^
ror having, in like manner, made himself master of England by
the eword, divided mong his followers the possessions of Iks
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Saxons ill this county, as he had done in others. He gave to
itithari.de TonelHrage, or de Clare^ thirty*eight manm ; to- Wil-
liam Fitz AsooJph, seven; to Hugh de Montgomery, four; to
Walter Fitz Other, or Windsor, three; to Milo Crispin, two; to
William de Braose, two; to Godwin, Earl of Kent, two; to Ed-
,ward de Salisbury, one; to Geoffrey de Magnaville, one; to Gil«
hert d' Aqaila, on^; and to Leofwiue, Earl of Kent, one.
In the later history of this county nothipg worthy of particu-
lar notice oocvrs, exc^t that daring the contest between Charies
I., and hiii Parliament, Surrey strenuonsly supported the proceed*
ings of the latter. In the early part of those commotions, a
petition from this county, subscribed by 3,000 persons, was pre-
sented to the House of Commons, and another to the Lords con-
gratulating them on the measures which they had adopted ; com-
plaining of the delays in relievii^ Ireland, and the distractions
of the nation, which could not be redressed as long as there were
evil counsellors about the king, and popish lords in the house,
and praying that they might be removed. This petition, in a day
or two, prefaced the bills against bishop's votes, the pressing of
soldiers, and some others.
. HoNOKiAL HISTORY. It is known that so early as the time of
the Bosons^ this county conferred the title of Earl ; but the only
person who, during their dominion, is recorded in history, as hav-
ing borne that title, was Wada, or Huda, who, in the year Sdd;
was slain.in battle with the Danes in the Isle of Thanet, whither
be had marched with the forces of Surrey, to the assistance of Eal-
here. Earl of Kent The first who enjoyed this dignity under the
Norman princes, was
William de Warren, Earl of Warren in Normandy, who
married the daughter of the Conqueror, and accompanied him to
England. Having signalized himself at the battle of Hastings,
he was liherally rewarded by his father-in-law, out of the estates
of his new kingdom : but the earldom was not conferred till sooa
after the. accession of William II. He died in 1068, possessed of
pore than 200 lordships in different counties*
.His
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Hii iiMMesMr Wit Us ddesi MB
William, vho espmiAUg the canud of Aobert» ^6fll twrtiicr
of Henry I. in hui otleiByt upon the gtowb of Eaglaad, wiui dis*
poMOwed of Ids earidoa^ and obligod to retire into Korowody.
HiB digoitj wm tkordy oAer restored, aad his fiddity aod sdkao-
qvent sernees pr<Mred him worthy of the frfour of his so?eroigii^
whom he otieiidod in his last illttOM^ and died in Ae same yoat
with him, A. D. 1135.
William the third oarl, oldest srni and heir of the preoeiiingi
wis ohiefly remarhablo for the wnvefing policy, witb whieh ho
hahmeed in sneh a flmnner between the opposite interests of Moad
and Stephen, as to serve both in a^petranee, bat nrntiMr in eflhei;
Having acoompanied the great easpeditlon to the Holy Land ia
1147, he was the year following intereepled by the Infidels, meA
Ohin. He was the last heir male of his ftonily, leaving an only
daaghter, Isabel, who was svoeessively married to William do
Blois, a natnnd son of King Stephen ; and Hamelin Plmitage^
net, a natural son of Geofiry of Anjon.
William de Blois succeeded to tho earldom in right of has
wife. From the varions grants conferred on him by his father, IM
bore the titles of Earl of Bologne, Morteign, Warren, and 9ar«
ley, Iiord of Norwich, and Pevensey; and died without issoO
in 1160. On his deosase, the king lor some time Mtainod hii
Agnities in his own hands ; bnt on tho mamage of Isabel, hhi
widow, with Hamsun db Plawtaobnet, who was bmther to
tto king by the father, the Earldom of Snrrey was revived in his
person. He died in 1*301, leaving hie honours to his son mid
successor,
William, who e^foyed great luflnenco over ffing Joha^ and
possessed his confUence fai an eminent degree. Ho was one of
the witnesses to Hie infamous deed by whieh liie crown of Bng^
land was surrendered to the see of Rome, and had Hio custody of
some of the most important fbrtresses in the kingdom;'but noO^
withstanding tho marks of royal favour which he had roeeivod^
when the king reused to confirm the charter of Henry L ho wont
9 over
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•9un. 93
«»Ter to die barons. He was tbo at the head of thoae who aue-
ceaafally oppoaed the r^eal of the forest charter in the soceeed*
iog leigB. He died in 1248, leaving his honours and great poa*
aessions to his son
John, who, in 1247, married Alice, daughter of Hugh le Bmn
Earl of March and Angonleme, sister of William Valence, Eail of
Pembroke, and also sister to Henry III, by the mother, whom Hugh
bad married after the death of her former hnsband. King John.
This alliance aceonnts for the steady adherence of thia nobleman
to the royal cause, when most of the other barons had been pro-
voked to abandon it. At the batde of Lewes, however, he ones-
pectedly deaertod the king's army, and haviog withdrawn to
France, left his estates at the mercy of the barons, who imme*
diately took possession of them. He returned to England the
year following, and in 52 Henry III. having committed a most
outrageous assault in the King's Court at Westminster, on Alan
JBaron Zoucb, and his son, he was fined 10,000 marks for the
ofience. Notwithstanding his spirited resistance to the encroach-
mente of the crown, this nobleman stood high in the favor of Ed-
ward I. who, after his expedition to Scotland, made him sole war-
den or governor of that kingdom. In this capacity, he sustained
a signal defeat from the Scote at Stirling, but the king still conti-
nued to employ htm in his military operations in that country.
He died in 1304, and was succeeded by his grandson
John, who, after serving in many of the expeditions against
Scotland under Edward I. and II. was one of the grave and able
Btetesmen appointed to administer the government during the mi-
nority of Edward III. In the reign of the latter, also, he was se-
veral times employed against the Scote, and died in 1347, leaving
his sister Alice, relict of Edmund, Earl of Arundel, his next
heir in blood. To their posterity the honours of Warren and
Surrey, with all the lands in this county held by the late earl,
and great part of the other estetes of the family, devolved. The
first of these was
Richard Fitz-alan, who^ in 20 Edward III. attended the
Vol. XIV. D ing
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34 SURREY.
king to France, and was one of the chief commanders under t&e
I Black Prince in the memorable battle of Cressy. In the Parlia*
ment held 28 Edward III. it being adjudged that the earl^ faia
! father, had been unjustly put to death by the procurement of Mor-
timer, in the tumults which ushered in that reign, he was fttlly
restored as his heir. He died in ] 376, and was succeeded hj
i his eldest son
Richard, who in the first ten years of Richard II. was a brave
and successful commander of the king's fleet ; but his exploits
abh>ad created him enemies at home, at the head of whom was
Robert de Vere, Duke of Ireland. The Earl of Surrey, however,
with the Earls of Warwick and Derby, whose ruin had also been
resolved on, raised forces and displayed such firmness, that the
duke was obliged to leave the country in disguise, and at length
died an attainted, outlawed exile, at Louvain. The Earl of Sur-
rey now returned into the service of his country ; but the king
conceived such a jealousy of this nobleman, who, he feared, might
stand in the way of his designs against his own uncle, the Duke
of Gloucester, that, in 1397, he caused him to be impeached of
treason, and the earl, after a short hearing, was found guilty by
his judges, and on the same day beheaded. He had not been
dead above a wedc when, 29 September 1397,
Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, and sister's son of the late
carl, was created Duke of Surrey. In the year following, on the
disgrace of Thomas Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, he was appointed
Eaii Marshal of England, and in 1399 Lieutenant of Ireland for
three years. The &11 and disgrace of Richard was only the pre-
lude to that of this nobleman, whose title of Duke was annulled
by Parliament, and an order issued for rescinding all grants made in
his favour, since the meeting of the preceding Parliament. Ex-
asperated at this treatment, he entered into a conspiracy for the
destruction of the new king ; but the plot being discovered, the
accomplices dispersed. The Duke of Surrey, with some others,
b^g seized at Cirencester by the inhabitants, was there, in a
tamuihuous maimer, put to death in the ^ market-place, in Ja-
nuary,
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80REBY. 35
nutiry, 1400 ; and his bead being sent to London, yna set upon
the bridge. On this occasion
Thomas Fitz-alan, son of Richard, the tenth earl, (whose
attainder had been reversed in the first Parliament of Henry lY.)
being restored to the estates of his family, resumed also the title
of Earl of Warren and Surrey. He married Beatrice, illegitimate
daughter of the king of t^ortugal, and in I Henry V. was ap-
pointed constable of Dover castle. Warden of the Cinque ports,
and Lord Treasurer of England. He died in 1415, without any
surviving issue, leaving his three sisters, Elizabeth, Joan, and
Margaret, his heirs. After his death the title lay dormant more
than thirty-five years, when it was revived in the person of
John Mowbray, son of John, Duke of Norfolk, and great
grandson of Elizabeth, eldest sister of the late earl ; who, in
1451, his &ther being then living, was created Earl of Surrey.
He died at Framlingham, in Suffolk, in 1476, leaving an only
child, Ann, contracted to Richard, Duke of York, second son of
Edward IV. though not more than two years old. In 1477, this
Richard, was created Earl of Warren and Surrey. The tra-
gical end of this prince is too well known to need repetition. His
countess also died without issue, and the posterity of Elizabeth,
co-heiress of the Fitz-Alans, by her son John de Mowbray, hav-
ing thus become extinct, the honors of the family wete revived in
the issue of Margaret, her daughter. This lady had married Sir
Robert Howard, a knight of a very ancient and honourable fa-
mily, and John, her son by him, was, 1 Richard III. created
Duke of Norfolk. At the same time
Thomas Howard, son of this John, was created Earl of Sur-
rey ; and though this nobleman was attainted 1 Henry VII. yet
that politic prince was so sensible of the prudence, gravity, and
fidelity, of his character, that he soon received him into OeiTour,
appointed him one of his privy-council, restored him to the title
of Earl of Surrey, and all the lands which belonged to his wife's
inheritance. His valour and conduct at the battle of Flodden
F'usU; in 1513, procured him the farther restitution to the duke-
P 2 dom
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36 SURREY,
dom of Norfolk^ and other honors. He died in Hay 1524^ and
his eldest son
Thomas succeeded him in his several titles, haying heen pre-
viously created Earl of Surrey, at the same time that his father
was restored to the dukedom. Of this nobleman a brief acconnt
has been given in a preceding part of this volume.* Bying in
1664, he left his honors and estates to his grandson
Thomas, whose father, Henry, Earl of Surrey, had been sacri-
iced to the malice of the enemies of his family, during the life-
time of the late duke. In the Ist of Queen Mary, he was fully
restored in blood, and created a knight of the garter by Queen
Elizabeth, whose favor he for many years enjoyed ; but being
suspected of too great a partiality for Mary Queen of Scots, and
even of a design to marry her, he was tried on this charge, and
also on a pretence of otherwise conspiring against the crown and
dignity of her implacable rival, and executed in 1672. By his
attainder, the earldom of Surrey became forfeited, with his other
titles, and lay dormant till 1 James I. when it was revived in the
person of
Thomas, grandson of the late duke ; and since that time it
has been enjoyed, without interruption, by the illustrious house
af Norfolk.
The following is a list of such places in this county as have
been the capital residence of Barons, by tenure or by writ of sum*
mens; or have given title to peers, created such by letters pa-
tentt
Addington. B. Aquillon, William, by tenure of this ma-
nor. 18 Henry III. Extinct on
his son's death,I4 Edward 1. 1286.
2. Bardolph, Hugh, by tenure. Extinct by at-
tainder, 6 Henry IV. 1406.
Laghanu
• See Suffolk, p. «87.
t In this list, extracted from Manning*! elabomte history, B stands for Ba-
ton ; V. for Viscount ; and £ for £arl.
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8VUBT.
87
IigliaB* B. St John, John, by writ of siimmoiui, 25 Ed-
ward I. 1297. Extinct from 23
Edward lU. 1349.
SteriNkroogb. B. Cobham, Henry, by writ of aommona, 6
Edward II. Extinct from 46 Ed-
ward IIL 1372.
Beechworth. B. Hmwey, Boger, by writ of aiimmons, 22
Edward IIL Extinct from 35 Ed-
ward IIL 1361.
Shcie. B. Bray» Edmund, by vrit of aammona, 21
Henry YIII. Extinct from 4, 5.
Philip and Mary, 1557.
f^i^Bngliam. B. Howard, William, by patent, 1 Queen Ma«
ry, 1553-4*
E. Howard, Francis, by patent 6 George II.
1731.
Kingston. B. Bamsey, Jolm, by patent 18 James L 1620-
I. Extinct at his death, 1624-5.
Pkitiiey. B. Cecil, Edward, by patent, I Charles I.
1625. Extinct at his death, 1638.
libber Court. B. 1 Carleton, Dudley, by patent, 2 Charles L
1626. Extinct at his death,
1631-2.
2. Onslow, George, by patent, 16 George IIL
1776.
Wimbledon. V. CecU, Edward, by patent,2 Charlesl. 1626.
Extinct at his death, 1638.
Reygate. B. Hordaunt, John, by patent, 10 Charles IL
1659.
Guildford. I E. Boyle, Elizabeth, by patent, 12 Charles
II. 1660. Extinct at her death.
2 Mattland, John, by patent, 26 Charles 11.
1674. Extinct on his death, 1682.
3 B. If orth, Francis, by patent, 35 Charles IL
1683.
P 3 Guildford.
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38
BVRftET.
Guildford. E. Norths Francif, liy palent, 35 Geoige
11. 1762.
Nonsuch. B. Villen, Barbara,* by patent, 22 Charles
11. 1670. Extinct by death with-
oat issue, 1714.
Petershani. B. MuUand, John, by patent, 26 Charles II.
1674. Extinct on his death. 1682.
V. Stanhope, William,t by patent, 15 Geor^
II. 1741-2.
Stretham. B. Rnssel, Wriothesly,^ by patent, 7 Wil-
liam,'1695.
Clandon, W. B. Onslow, Richard, by patent, 2 George I.
171(5.
Battersea. B. St John, llenry,§ by fjkttnX, 2 George I.
1716.
Ockham. B. King, Peter, by patent^ 11 George 1. 1725.
Kennington. E. William, Duke of Cumberiand, by patent,
12 George I. 1726. Extinct on
his death, 1765.
Ripley. B. Ligonier, John, by patent, 3 George III.
1763. Extinct on his death, 1770.
Cranley. B. Onslow, George, || by patent, 16 George III.
1776.
The names of such gentlemen of this county as haTe been ad-
vanced to the rank of Baronet, are as follow :
Vincent, of Stoke d'Abemon, 1620.
Brown, of Beechworth castle, 1627. Extinct in 1680.
Abdy,
* DacheM of Cleveland,
t At the ume time also Earl of Harrington.
t Hii title was Baron Howland, of Stretbam, and it is vested in the present
Buke of Bedford.
§ Also Viscount St. John.
II Who shortly after inherited the title of Lord Onslow, [of Clandon, and
was created earl in 1801.
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8URRST.
Abdy, of Chobham, 1641.
More of Lesely, 1642. Extinct in 1684.
Scot, of Kew, 1663.
Bond, of Peckhwn, 1658. Extinct in 1 767.
Evelyn, of Godstone, 1660. Extinct
Atkyns, of aapham, 1660. Extinct in 1756.
Grethmra, of Titsey, 1660.
Poot , 1660. Remainder to Onslow, now a peer.
Stidolph, of Norbury, in Mickleham, 1660. Extinct in 1676.
Stoagbton, of Stougbton, in Stoke, 1660-1, Extinct in 1691-2.
Bromfield, of Southwark, 1660-1,
Parsons, of Epsom, 1661.
Cullen, of East Sbeen, 1661. Extinct
Duncnmb, of Tangly, 1661. Extinct.
lioyd, of Woking, 1661-2. Extinct
Hook, of Flancbford, in Eeygate, 1662. Extinct
Dawes, of Pntney, 1663. Extinct in 1741.
Greene, of Micbam, 1664. Extinct ,
Temple, of East Sheen, 1665-6. Extinct in 1698.
Betenaon, of Wimbledon, 1666. Extinct in 1786-7.
Alston of Long Ditton, 1681-2.
Evelyn, of Long Ditton, 1682-3. Extinct in 1692.
Sbiers of Slyfield, in Great Bookham, 1684. Extinct in 1685.
Edwards, of Walton upon Tbames, 1691. Extinct in 1764.
Buckwortb, of East Sheen, 1697.
Elwill, of Inglefield Green, in Egham, 1709. Extinct in 1778.
Evelyn,of Wotlon, 1713,
Carew, of Bedington, 1714-5. Extinct in 1762.
Janssen, of Wimbledon, 1714-5. Extinct in 1777.
Decker, of Richmond, 1716. Extinct in 1749.
Fellows, of Carshaiton, 1718.9. Extinct in 1724.
Frederic, of Burwood, in Walton on Thames, 1723.
Clayton, of Harden, in Godstone, 1731-2.
Glynne, of Ewell, 1759.
^awbey,of Botleys, in Chertscy, 1765.
^ D4 Foley
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40 801lltEY«
Foley, of Thorp, 1767. Extinct ia 1782.
Barker, of Busbhdge, in Godalming, 1781. Extinct in 178d.
Geary, of Poleaden, in Great Bookhiun, 1782.
Dalling, of Cobbam, 1783.
Hoaie, of Bam Elms, 1786.
Dardl, of Richmond bill, 1795.
Turton, of Sterborongh castle, 1796.
Baker, of Richmond, 1796.
Stiachey, of Rook's Nest, 1801.
Hetcalf, of Ham, 1803.
Watson, (now Kay,) of Richmond, 1803.
Price, of Richmond, 1803.
Sulivan, of Thames Ditton, 1804.
Crespigny, of Camberwdl, 180&
Sotton,of Molesey, 1806.
Wood, of Gatton, 1808.
Ecclesiastical history amo ooT£nNMENT.^The first ee«
desiastical anthohty to which the county of Surrey became sab*
jeet was that of Wilfred, bishop of the Sooth Saxons, who, to-
ward the close of the seventh century, fixed his episcopal see at
Selsty, in Sussex. For five yean only it formed part of his dio-
cese, and was annexed to the jurisdiction of the bishop ct the
West Saxons, when the latter had subdued this province. At
length, on the erection of Winchester into a ' separate diocese is
705, it became a member of that see, to which it has ever since
belonged, with the exception of nine churches, that formerly
constituted the deanery of Croydon, and are at this day pecnliara
to the see of Canterbury.
Under the bishop of Winchester, as its diocesan, this county
is subject to the archdeacon of Surrey, whose jurisdiction includes
the whole of it, exoept the peculiars. This archdeaconry was
founded in or before 1120, and is endowed with the rectory of
Famham, (incbding the chapelries of Sell, Frensham, and Elated,
in
7
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k tUs couitj, and Bcnlley, in Hai^aUie) ban; ntil in the
king's books al91Lias.6td. a yew; ind chai^ with Iko pay-
aMnt of 9L 2s. Ud. to the king for tenths, and twoity aarai n
year to the Kshiy .
The aidideaconry of Surrey van ftmerly snhdiyided bto the
liMir deaneries of Ewell, Soathwaik^ Galdeford, and Croydon, hn|
firoBK the tiae of the Refonnation, or thoeabontSy has eonsisted
of three only: Ewell, Sonthwarfc, and Stoke.
The connty contains 140 parishes; 75 redories; 95 ricsnges;
and 30 chapeb of ease and perpetnal cniaeies.
Giyii. OOYERNM BUT, EEPRBSBNTATioN, &C.— Snney had its
own high sheriff till about the beginning of the reign of King
John, when it was joined with Sussex ; and though under some
succeeding sovereigns it was occasionaUy under a sepaiate juris*
diction, yet it was not till 1615 that a distinct officer began to be
r^;ularly appointed for each county.
It lies in the home circuit, the lent assizes being held at King*
ston, and the summer assizes at Guildford and Croydon alter*
nately.
Surrey returns fourteen members to Parliament; two for the
county, and two for each of the boroughs of Southwark, Guild-
ford, Reygate, Haskmere, Blechingly, and Gatton.
The Btatote of the 12 Charles II. directed that out of the
70,000), a month to be raised throughout England to defray the ex«
penses of the militia, the borough of Southwark should be charged
with 18iL 14s, 6d. and the rest of the county wi»h 1065L5s. 6d.
making a total of 1750L a month. The number of private men
to be raised by this county, as its due proportion of the national
nulitia, is 800. ' The Lord Lieutenant is Earl Onslow, whose fi^
mily, and himself, hsTe uninterruptedly held that honourable of-
fice for near a century.
' Surrey pays eighteen parte as ite proportion of the land Uoi,
to which the different hundreds are assessed in the IbOowing^
Hundred
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42 aVRRET.
Hnndred of Godley Z.33d9 4 <l
... Wokii^ 4066 12 l\
-Farnbam 1745 18 6
. Godalming 2628 6 5
... Blackheath 2981 18 4
• . Wotton ..••• 2029 2 0
. -< Copthorn • 2982 13 3
^ Emiey 2020 19 0
. Kingston :.... 3302 2 0
^ West ••••••• •••••••••• 4186 9 6
*- Brixton <E9Kt ...M 14902 15 3
(Soutfawark......... 11546 18 6
Wallington 3745 II 4
Reygatc , 3772 14 6
Tanridgc 2821 15 0
Total ^66133 0 6
MMSSBSaESBSBS'
THE HUNDREP OF BRIXTON.
This hdudred forms the north*east corner of the county, being
bounded on the east bv Kent; on the south by the hundred of
Croydon; on the west by Kingston; and on the north separated
from Middlesex by the Thames. It was anciently denominated
Brixistan^ which name, says Manning,* it undoubtedly received
from a stone or pillar, erected by one Brixi, a Saxon proprietor
in these parts, and memorable in its time as one of the boundary
marks of a manor in Lambeth, belonging to the abbey of Wal-
tham, in the reign of Edward the Confessor. How this hundred
came also to be called Allington hundred, 98 it is in the older
Surveys of Norden^ Speed, and Seller, it is difficult to conjec-
ture. In the county books, and the more modem maps of Se-
nex an4 Bowen, it goes by the appellation of Brixton only.
This hundred, with its jurisdiction and privileges, was granted
by Richard II. in his 20th year to the prior and convent of Ber-
mondsey^
* Hitt. of Swny, VoL I. Introd. lii. *
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aantey, to ^hom it was eonfinned by charier in 33 Henry VI,
It Hes in the deanery of Southwark, and forms two diTisions.the
east and west, compreheDding the following punches: Baraea,
Battenea, Bennondsey, Camberwell, Claphan, Christ Church,
Lambeth, M erton, Mortlake, Newingtoa Butts, Putney, Rother*
hithe, St George, St. John, St. Savionr, Stdave, and St Tho-
mas SoaUiwaik^ Strelhain, Tooting, Wandsworth, and Wiobi
bledon.
SOUTHWARK,
This borough, which is commonly considered as the capital
of Soirey, is itself but a suburb and appendage to the prodigious
metropolis of the British empire. Its name, of Saxon origin, is
supposed to be derived from some military wwk, or fortification,
sitaated to the wutk of London ; and to the same circumstance is
ascribed its appellation of the burg, or borough.
The principal events in which Southwark has been concerned
are related in the history of London, given in a preceding volume
of this work, to which, of course, the reader is referred.* It
will be sufficient for our present purpose to state that this borough
was governed by its own bailiff till ld27, when the city of Lon-
don, finding great inconvenience' from the escape of malefactoia
thither, oot of the reach and cognizance of the city magistrates,
obtained from Edward III, a grant of the village of Southwark,
by which the lord.mayor was constituted its bailiff, and em-
powered to govern it by his deputy. In a few years, however,
the inhabitants recovered their former privileges, which they ea^
joyed tin the reign of Edward VI. when the crown, in considera-
tion of a sum of money, made a second grant of this lordship
and manor, with all the royal jurisdictions, franchises, and pri-
vileges, within the precincts of the bcNrongh, to the city of Lon-
don. It was in consequence made a ward of the city, by the
aane of Bridge Ward witlumt, and has ever since been, nomi-
mDy at least, under the jurisdiction of the lord mayor, who ap-
pobts
« Ses Beaattei, Vol. X.
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4# 8VEUT*
jfimU a stemrd and bailiff fi>r the Bwrcugh liberty, ai the dis*
trici thoa incorporated with the oty is called. To tbia imti,
which ia not represented in the eoart of common council, the ae-
niw alderman, or, as he is termed, the father ei the city, is re-
moTed, as to an faononrable sinecore, which exempts him from the
fi^gnes nsaally inenrred in the other wards. Such too have beem
the svpinenesa and neglect of the corporation in the maintenance
of their diartered rights and priyileges within this borough; that
the county magistrates have been snffin^d to assume andre«
tain, without interruption, the authority of appointing oonstaUea,
licensing vietnaUers, and exercising other powers in Southwaik,
as jasticea of the peace for Surrey.
That part of Sonthwark not comprehended in the Borough li*
berty is called the Clink, and is in the jurisdiction of the Bishop
of Winchester, who appointa a steward and bailiff, under wfaosa
this division of the borough is governed.
Sonthwark has sent members to Parliament ever since 23 Ed-
ward 1. The right of election is in the inhabitants paying aoot
and loti, amounting to about 3200« During the last twentsr
years, the honor oC-representing this borough baa been Tcrj
warmly contested.
The Borough of Southwark, properly so caUed, embraces onlj
the parishes of St Olave, St Saviour, St John, St Thoauus
and St Geoige; but from the dose connection of the aidljoining pa-
rishes of Bermondsey, Rotherhithe;, Newington, Christ Chnrch^
and Lambeth, they will here be considered as conatitnting^ with
the former, the third grand division of the Britirii metropolis.
The five parishes of which Sonthwark, strictly speaking, con-
sists, were found, in 181 1, to comprehend 61,168 inhabitants.
St, Ola¥B'8 church is sitnated in Tooley Street, near the
aouth endof London bridge. The original edifice ia meetioidl
so early as 1281 ; hntthe dale of its erection is unknown. Furt
of this dd church havii^ follen down in 1736, the parishaonesa
applied to Parliament for power to rebuild it, and the pressel
atncture was finished in 1739. It consists of a plain body
strengthened
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[ vidiraitkqaoaks «t the comcn, and ligljled by
Ikree nages of viadows, the lowest iipiight» het retj bteed;
those shoTe thenroeiMl, and the mffenmmt large and seBucitee*
lar. Ib the lower^ eoBsistiBg ef three stages, are eight hells.
ItissamNmdedhy aplain sahslaiitial faahntrade, aad, like the
test iti the baildiBg, hasan alrof piaianess sad siaiplieity. The
iaterier is aest> and in the west gallery b a good organ.
Stow infonss as, that opposite to this choreh, SB the soath
side of Todey Street, formerly stood " a great hoase, baih of
atoae, with arehed gates, which p^tained to the prior of Lewes,
in Sassex, and was his lodging when he eaaie to London." He
adds, that it was afterwardB converted into an inn, known hy the
Mgn of the Wabit tree. Eastward of the chnrch was another
** great boase of stone and timber," says the same writer, ** be-
longing to the AbbotB of St Angustine, without the avails of
Ganteibory , which was an ancient piece of irork, and aeemeth to
be one of the finest bnilt hoases on that side the river, over
against the city." This aiansioa was first denominaied Mhoi's
Inm : but dianged this appeflation finr St Legar'Honse, when it
became the property of ^e fiunily of that name. Id which it was
probably granted at the dissolution. In Stew's time it was di«
vided into tenements.
On the north side of Tool^ Street^- next to the Thames, is
the Bridge-house, a foandation which seems to be coeval with
London Bridge, having been used as a store-boase lor stone, tim-
ber, and ^yther materials employed in its repairs. At the Bridge*
honse was aho the public granary for com in times of scarcity,
as well as the city brewhouse ; and it contained ovens to bake
bread for the poor. It is under the superintendance of officers,
called bridge-masters, who are appointed by the city.
Below the Bridge-house, on the banks of the Thames, stood
the inn of the Abbot of Battle. The spot stUI called Battle-bridge
was thus named from a bridge over a water-coarse flowing out of
the Thames, bnik and repaired by this prelate, on whose ground
it was situated. In the front of this mansion were the gardens
belonging
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46 auKBXTi
Monging^ to it» the peeoUeeMon of whose eabcUishiMBto is jek
perpetuated by the Maze, and the Maze-pond.
By a charter of Queeo Elizabeth, a Free Grammar School was
.founded in this parish, which purchased lands and rerennes for
its endowment. These consist chiefly in groand-rents, in aad
about Horseley-dowo, and have been augmented by the donations
of various benefactors. The concerns of this institution are an*
der the management of sixteen trustees, or governors, incoipo-
rated for the purpose: and the scholarsy of whom there are 2SQ
on the foundation, receive, from a head-master and three assis.-
tants, such an education as may fit them for the learned, or any
other professions. The parish has also a Charity-School^ in
which 40 girls are clothed and instructed.
Eastward of St. Olave's is the parish of St. John, Horseleg
down, corruptedly so called fh>m Horu-doum, having been ori-
ginally a grazing ground for horses. St. John's is one of the
fifty new churches, ordered by act of Parliament to he built in the
metopolis, and was finished in 1792, when this district was se-
parated from St. Olave's, and constituted a distinct parish. The
body of the church is lighted by two ranges of windows, having
•one of the Venetian kind in the cente. The square tower, con-
taining ten bells, is surmounted with a spire in the form of a fluted
Ionic piihir. The interior of this edifice is neatly decorated, and
provided with a good organ.
^ St. Thomas's Church stands on the south side of the street
ef the same name. It was annexed to St. Thomas's hospital, and
included with that foundation in the grant made by Edward VI.
to the city of London. The church, being old and ruinous, was
taken down and rebuilt in 1702. To defray the expense the sun
of 30001. was appropriated from the duty on coals, and the deficien*
cy made up by the governors of the hospital. At the same time,
it was judged necessary, in consequence of the great increase of
buildings, to make the church parochial, and to erect a chapel
within the hospital, for the use of the patients. The hhiic is
plain, cottstrncted of brickj» and lighted by a single series of
largo
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large windows. The earnen both of tte ohurch a&d tquan
l9wer are strengthened with rostic.
St, Tk(niuu*s Hospital, a noble and extensive charity, appro-
priated to ILe reception of indigent persona labouring nnder aick-
ness or accidental injnriea, is aiUiated on the east side of the
Borough High-street, nor tar from London-bridge. Its original
foundation was owing to the destruction by fire of the pri<H7 of
St. Mary Orery, in 1207 ; on which the monks erected, at a small
distance, a temporary habitation for themselres till tiie monastery
cooM be rebuilt This edifice, on their remoral to the new cmi-
▼ent, was pulled down in 1215, by Peter de Rapibus, Bishop of
Winchester, who, induced by the superior adyantages of air and
water, founded another in its stead on the spot where the prior
of Bermondsey had, two years before, established an alms-house
for indigent and necessitous proselytes. This stmcUire, when
finished, he dedicated to St Thomas the Apostle« and endowed
witii lands to the ralne of 3491. per annum. As the rerenues of
this institution were considerably increased by subsequent bene-
factors, they must have been greatly underrated at its suppres-
non in 1538, when their annual ralue was computed at no more
than 2661. 17s. 6d« This hospital being an appurtenance of the
manot of Southwark, purchased in 1551 of King Edward YI.
by the Corporation of London, was immediately repaired and en-
larged by the city at an expense of 11001. and approjHiated to the
reception of poor, sick, and maimed, persons; on which the king,
in 1558, incorporated a society lor its government, in common
with St Bartholomew's, Bridewell, Bethlem, and Christ's Hos-
pitals. The revenues of this establishment sustained great in-
jury by the fire of London in 1666, and by tiiree subsequent con-
flagrations in SouthwariL in 1676, 1681, and 1688. The edifice
itself having also become old and ruinous, a subscription was, in
1699, set on foot by the governors for rebuilding it on a more
extensile and commodious plan, an object which, with the li-
beral sssistaBce of various benefiu^tora, was gradually accom-
plished. The new hospital consisted of three quadrangles, to
which.
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4S ftuaasr.
vliicli^ ia 1732^ was added afoartbt erected al tbe ei^ense of fhft
fimds of the charity*
. The eatraace ioto the fint of these qnadraogles^ CatciJig the
ttlreet^ is by large iron gates^ which occupy one side of ike
aquaie. The other Ihiae sides are encompassed with a colonnade:
the hoildiag on the north beiag erected in 1708, at the expense of
ThosMS Frederiok, Ssq, ; and that on the south at the chaige of
ThaoMa Goy, Es^ in 1707. An inscription npon each caauiie-
ates the benefiMtion of these gentleaen, who were both go-
of thb charity. The centre of the principal front is of
atone, and looks toward the street. On the U^, under a smail
eirenlar pediment^ is a clock ; and beneath it^ in a niche, a statae
. of Edward VL A littie lower on each side are niches, with
figures, r^resentimg ot||ects for whose relief the hospital is do*
signed. A qHicions passage leads down a flight of steps into the
aecond oourt, which is by &r the. most elegant. In the middle
of it is a good brass statue of Edward YI. by Scheemakera, tbe
inscription in honour of that prince, also informs us that tins
statue was erected in 1737, at the expense of Charies Joyce, Esq.
The north side of this court is occupied by the chapel, which is
adorned with lofty Corinthian pilasters ; and the other three sides
are aorrounded by a colonnade, aboye which the fronts of tbe
wards are ornamented with Ionic pilasters. The buildings of the
third court are older than the others, and are entirely encom-
passed with a piazza, above which rise slender Ionic pilasters
with very small capitals. In the centre is a stone statue of Sir
Robert Clayton in his robes as lord-mayor ; with an inscription on
the pedestal, recoiding that he gave 6001. towards the rebuilding
of this hospital; and bequeathed to it in his will 23001. The
fourth quadrangle is partly occupied by hot and cold baths,
a surgery, theatre, apothecary's shop, brewhouse, and other of-
fices.'
The whole establishment contains nineteen wards, and 474
beds ; and since the foundation of this noble charity it has afforded
relief to many hundred thousand of the poor in the various disor-
ders
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YiMngh BO eslite 9ifpmr to h«fe hmx
toit» ydtiieWvBtjof tiwOotponitioii, 9M
euntriboted to niae aoch a And, to mI
ooly to eMora ite pennMace, liiit to extorf ito objects; oo tkot
theoiiunloniberof potieateMyboeiliiDtttedatSOOO, oodllM
es^ymditae at 10,OOOL lalSll Owtolal oonberof mondooi^
patieoiB im 9,419; of whon 8546 weie eand aod diaolMrgo4»
and 194 kiried : 405 im-patieiila, aiid99» ont^fotioMl^ raMiaod
andor core at the Old of the yetf •
Near thbho^td in St ThoflMs's-street, ie the kindred ia«ti«
tation of Gulf's Hoqrii^, a mooament of prifate manifieeooe, to
wbidi it woold be diffiealt to prfklace a penJleL It is named
after its loonder, Thomas Gay, a citizen and bookseUer of Lon-
don, who, by industry and frugality, amsased a Tory large ibr^
tone;* which, when he had attained his 76th year, he deter-
Vol. XIV. E
* Mr. Otty wa» the 9oa of ft ligbtenaan and eoftMealer ia Honle^dowa»
«iid vftt fMit appreatictt co a bo<»kieller and binder. He began buMOcat with
a itock of the Taloe of abpot SOOl. in the house which still formt the aii|la
between Corahill and Lomberd-Mreet. English babies being at that tine Teiy
iiidjffnemly printed* be engaged in a scheme for printing then in Holland,
and inporting them into this coontrj ; but this practice proving detrimental
to the university and the king's printer, they empkijred all possible aieans lo
suppress itt and so lar saceeeded, that Mr. Ouy found it his interest lo enter
into a contract with them, and in conieqoenee enjoyed a verj eatensive and
IttcraCive trade. Being a single man, be spent a veiy small portion of his pro*
Sts. He dined on his counter, with no other ubie-clotb than a newspaper^
and was not more nice about his apparel. . But a still more prnlitable concern
than his trade was opened to his active mind during Queen Anne's wars,
when be is said to have acquired the bulk of his fortune by the pnrohase of
seaman's tickets. <' For the applicatioa of this fortune to charitable asesb the
pabbc," says Highnore, in his History of the Public Cliarities of London^ ** are
indebted to a trilling circumstance. He employed a female servant whom
be had agreed to marry. Some days previous to the intended ceremony be
had ordered the pavement before his door to be iMnded up to a particular,
ttooe which he had marked, and then left his house on business. This ser-
▼aatf in hit abpenae, looking at the workmen, mw a ^ok^ataae beyond thi«
nmr^
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ItDtpfly tolliwi^fteTolMtpiirpwe. H« aaeoDiniglj look
oCtii0 g0T«nioni of St ThoiBas't HcHipitil a lease of a |neoe of
fronwl oppeeile le thai edifioe for 999 ycar% at thirty poanda per
annm. Thia spot ^ras cohered with small hoosea, which were
aenoved m the f^wiag spring ; and such was the expeditioB
employed in the erection of the bnilding, that it waa roofed before
Uie death of the tundar, whidi happened in December I7d4^ itt
hia eighly«Arat year. The expenae of epecUng- and fninislmg
this hospital amomited to 18,7^31 ; and Mr. Gay, by his wilt
endowed it witb the unappropriated residue of his estate, which
anmented
mark which tbej bad not repaired, and on pointing to it with that design,
they acquainted her that Mr. Guy had not ordered them to go lo far. She,
howerer, directed it to be done, adding, with the eecnrity incidental to her
eipeetatkNi of lOOn becoming his wife : ' Toll him I bade yon, and he will
aol; be angry.' Bat she too loou leamt how fatal it is for any one in a de*
pendant situation to eiceed the limits of their antfaority ; for her master, on
his retm«, waa enraged at finding that they had gooe beyond hb orders, re-
nonnoed his tngpiaement to his servant, and devoted his ample foif one te
public charity."
Mr. Gny served m several parliaments for Tanwortli, in Stafibrdsbire,
where his mother wis bom, and where he foonded alms-houses for foeitoen
men and woosen, besides bestowing considerable benefactions. The bni»
gesses, however, forgetlnl of his service^ gave their soAages to an opposing
candidate. Tbey soon repented of their iugratitede* and when too tale t»
repair it, sent a deputatioa te isspfore his pardon, and to intreat his permis-
sion to re-elect him for the neat Parliansent ; but be refected the ofiBr on an-
count of bis advanced age, and never represented any other place.
Besides the large sums which Mr. Ony expended on his own hospitol^ and
that of St. Thomas, he bequeathed to Christ's Hospitel a perpetual annuity of
4001. Ibr receivuig four children yearly ; to bis poor relations he left annuities
fet life to the amount of STOL and among his younger relations and eiecif
tors 75^5001. i 1O00I. for discharging poor prisoners within the city of Loo*
don, and in the oennties of Middlesex and Surrey, who could be released
ibr five pounds ; and a perpetual annuity of ItSl. for the further support of
bis alms-houses at Tamworth, and putting out appi«ntices in that town.
U; as the Apostle has tonght us, charity CMveretb a multitode of sins, is ic
net but fuasonable to befieve that this has much eiore than atonedfec tfie
eelyibihle, parsimony, with which Mr. Guy has been charged?
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SURREY. 51
avovHted to 819,4991. Soon after bis decease, his executors, in
eoBfliaiice with his wishes, applied to Parliament^ and obtained
Hd^ ael; incMporating sixty governors, in whom the management
of this charity is vested.
The bidldilig, situated in a narrow street, cannot be seen tp
V adiuftag^. The entrance is by an iron-gate, which opens into a
s^piare, in the middle of whidi is a brass statne of the founder in
his' livery gown, by Scheemakers, with this inscription on the
front of the pedestal :
THOMAS aoT,
SOLE FOITNDER OF THIS HOSPITAL
IN HIS LIFE TIME,
A. D. MDCCXXI.
On the west^side of the pedestal is represented, in relievo, the
parable of the .good Samaritan ; on the east, our Saviour healing
the impotent man ; and on the sooth are Mr. Guy's arms.
The buildings consist of a centre and two wings; the latter
being erected after the decease of the founder, on an additional
piece of ground obtained on lease from St Thomas's Hospital.
The former is devottd to the reception of patients : and behind it
is a small neat edifice for lunatics. In the centre of one wing are
a spacious hall and rooms for public business ; and in the other a
neat chapel, in which is a finely executed statue of the founder,
by Bacon. The wings contain the houses of the principal offi-
cers; besides which there is a theatre for medical lectures, a li-
brary well furnished with professional works, and a collection of
anatomical preparations. The whole comprehends thirteen wards,
and 411 beds. The out-patients also, to whom relief is extended
by this institution, are very numerous.
St. Satiooe's Chorch, commonly called St Mary Ov^rey,
originally belonged to a nunnery founded by a female, prior to the
Norman Conquest, and endowed by her with the profits^of the
ferry across the river at this place before the erection of London-
bridge. This house was afterwards converted into a college for
£ 2 priests.
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62 SURREY.
priests, by whom the fifst bridge over the Thames vas built of
vood, and kept in reptur, till they were enabled, by the muaifi-
eence of benefieictors, to supply its place by another of stone. In
1106 the college was transformed into a priory of canons reguiarj
but these were scarcely settled^ when the bishop of Winchester
brought in secular canons in their stead. Henry I. j;ave them
the church of St. Margaret-on-the-Hill, by a charter, which
was confirmed by Stephen. In the conventual church Peter de
la Roche founded a large chapel, dedicated to St. Magdalen,
which was afterwards used as the parish church of the neighboring
inhabitants. The revenues of this priory at its surrender in 1539,
were valued at 6241. 6s. 6d. per annum. Some considerable re-
mains of this edifice are still distinguishable. It stood near ^e
«nd of London-bridge, with the "west aspect fronting the ruins
of the palace of the bishops of Winchester. Abutting upon
the north-west angle of the west front of the church, is a gate-
way leading into the precincts of the priory, the archway of
which is in the Tudor style, and not very rich. Here is a very
fine and spacitnis crypt, about 100 feet by 25, running north and
south, and attaching itself to the north transept of the church.
The plan is in two aisles, marked by octangular columns, sup-,
porting excellent groinings most curiously constructed at each end
of the arrangement. The masonry also is admirable, and in the
best possible state, though it appears to be coeval with the
' church. Over the crypt is the remnant of what is supposed to
have once been a sumptuous apartment, probably the dormitory,
as the number of small windows yet remaining would seem to
denote. Tliese relics of antiquity are now used as repositories
fpr coals and lumber. /
On the suppression of this priory the inhabitants of Southwaric
purchased the church belonging to it, which was by charter ap-
propriated to the joint use of the parishioners of St. Mary Mag-
dalen and St. Margaret, by the name of St. Saviour's. This
church is built upon the plan of a cathedral, though of smaller
dimensions, its length being 269 feet, and the other parts in pro-
portion.
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)M>riion« A relic only of the origiDal architecture is to be per-
ceWed, and that is in the interior of the west front of the church ;
as all the rest of the fabric exhibits the styles in use betveen the
thirteenth and sixteenth centuries^ which are also fonud adopted
in the remains of the monastic dwellings on the north side of the
priory. The sonth side has a fine porch in the early style of the
edifice, with a dooUe entrance formed by columns, with nch cq»i-
tals, and other embellishments. The tower, standing in the
centre^ rises in three stories, the walls finishing with battlements,
and being adorned at the angles with turrets and spires. It was
from this tower that Hollar took his celebrated views of London
both before and aft^ the great fire in 1666.
This church has three chapels : our Lady's, or the New Cha*
pel, at the east end of which, is run out a small monumental cha-
pel, and which, after this edifice became parochial, was let for
upwards of sixty years by the church-wardens for the purposes of
a bake-house : St. John's, now the vestry, on the north side of
the choir, and St Mary Magdalen's on the south side.
' In Our Lady's Chapel, a grave stone ten feet in length, o^
which was formerly a border and a figure in brass, of a bishop in
his pontifical habit, is supposed to cover the remains of the cele-
brated William of Wykeham, Bishop of Lincoln, and afterwards
of Winchester, who died in 1395. Eastward of the altar is the
monument of Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester, who died
in 1626, aged 71. His effigy, in full proportion, habited as a
prelate of the order of the garter, lies on a tomb of black and
white marble. At liis feet are his arms within a garter, between
two small figures of Justice and Fortitude^
Here also is a pleasing mural monument from a design of Mr.
J. Soane, to the memory of Abraham Newland, Esq. late cashier
to the Bank of England, who was interred here November 2d,
1807.
In the north side aisle is a curious monument for Gower, one of
the earliest English poets, and a benefactor of this church, to tlie
refiuiUiiig of which he contributed about the year 1400. The
E 3 sfatue
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04 dVBMT.
0Catii0 is cf the iM oottame icslf Wre, bvl lying in tk« mn^l
prostete daTotional tttitadA. On ibe wall are paired tluree
female 6gurt9, crowned with dncal eeroneta^ repreeeatiiig Pitgri
Mercj« aocl Charity, aad e diatich in old Rench nndeniealh
each. The inacription, beneath which are aome mcnkiah Utin
rfaymea^ ia as foUowa :
«' Hic^acet Jeannea Gower Aimiger» Anglonini Poeta ealeberri*
moa, ac hnio aaerp edificio hene&ctor inaignis teHforibna, Edw.
IIL et Rich. IL"
At the end of the north tranaept is the fignre of a very anaent
croaa^legged knight^ citfrved in oak, bat whicfat^ by a ridici|kNia
peryeraioa ef the original intent^ ia now aet np against the walL
In Si. SaTienr'a chnrch-yard, is a Free Grammar Sdmol,
fonnded at the charge of the parish by attthorifty of Qneen Eliu^
beth in 1669. The achool-honae ma burned down in 1976, but
rdndlt in a handsome style. It is endowed for a apaster sad
nsher, and is ftee for such poor children as are natiTea of this
pariah* Adjoining is a Free JE»gl%$k School, fonnded by Ooro*
thy Applebee, abont 1681, for thirty poor boya of thia parish, to
be instmcted in reading, sriting, and arithmetia.
Contiguona to the priory of St Mary O^ery formerly stood
Winchester Houfe, the town^residenoe of the:prela;tes of that aee.
It was erected ab6ut the year 1107^ by Bishop Giffitf^* &od was
one of the most magnificent straotvrea in the city or suburbs of
London. It continued to be the abode of hia anccesaors till the
beginning of the seventeenth century* when it waa foraahen for
the more agreeable residence at Chelsea^ During the civil wsrs
in the reign of Charles I. this edifice waa for some time a prison
for royalists; and, among the rest, the celebrated Sir KsMbn
Digby, whp here wrote his book on " Bodiee/^ and amused,
himself witK chemical experiments, end making artificial stones
in imitation of emeralds, mbies, &c In 1649 it was sold by the
Parliament to Thomas Walker, of Camberweli, for 43801. In the
indenture of sale was included the park belonging to this man-
aion ; but^ reverting at the Restoration to the rigbtfiil own^ ti^.
hopse
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^wMfcrlll>igBitiilfMrl*Brii>M»ttt*iiiMiB^t»iwMMi
thefuk^lteeiiMiila «ibmlpcmot» tt Ihrr pwl mnhwt
Vail ynM be tks iillflivi W 4etemM the Mrttnl mI «rw
nagcanAofllmptlMeflNwitoptMMKtIenaaM. Theritftwas.
fntiUy Aviddl islft Iw or nore gfioid eourti, itm frincipd «C
wMeh ■yp«tfii to hftw hid ili range olaMeapailaMiiliifaHitfaif
tlwmer; wdl frt rfmiiaaggfcmow ■lioift thamly ekfrtiwi
liMtaBb^teaciri. Tlw*gkiti«Kteniddeeoiati6iisimlheMHh^
« fhwr imrt^ lnv« baoi ailkar iertn^jcd, m bnoked nf; ^ i&.
the «llw% Cafeing tie a#«tk, aiv attu^ eaiiots dtMr-wjr^ ori^
vMwaiftvactoi^^rlii^fimatlMit itf theaariy piMad» iiiini
ti «iM» an of HoBTf YiL hAwMOfmMaM, cad eonceUet
l9aittdi,«iBU6a, attd^mhoOMa. kilkogmfaMaHlMirBatw*
of Ihia WDge^ ia a kffa okoakrialiMiow/ wbiek, fer ddiaaiby af
Mb aad fcaanigr of iMkaiAaMf^ ia ■aipgiuod by few; lu atyte
yndanaa H la be of Ae tioMof Mdnahl HI. Tbiapaitiaa 41
lltt edttaa iaai^ipoaadl to fmt iMiad a ibagiiAaHit piriiafcif 4
What w BOW iemm^maiBmkMe wmt hrmeAj a fa«g« #f
dvaHkiga fiaaaaed by tha BMiafM of WbMhOktar ** ftr ttefafair
of iaoattthiaal mb to tht Kta irailoa/' aaA daaamiiMM IM
IbrdMIt, or aStfm-AMPef. Tbeaa bmlifeata irere aoft^oiefl to vft-
riaaa tova aad fegnlatioaa Miaatod by PuliaaiMl^ Mtoolr ^^^
we find the foHowiag: that tbay wore to be M«pt A^ oa holl^
daya ; that bo auurried woaiaD sboiild be receiTed into ^^n; tbtl
aa BMB 8bo«id be diaww or entieed tldtber ; aad that bo slew-
haUar afaoaM keep a«y womaB- who had " Uie perileoa^ ittfinaitf
•f bamiag/' or aell bread, aie, fish, or aoy rietoajk In 4
Keharl li. fheaa koaaea, ttm baloii||ittg to Sir Wiffiam Wal*
ynMk, Lord Ifayar ol Loodan, were reatM of him by fioet, «f
tawda of flaadeva, aad were deatroyed by the Kentiab rriiela an-
te Wal Tyler*. Il aeeato Ughly pi^obable, thai r^aeata&ettl for
S4 tiM
* T<irte Meonnt of Ac deTisutimis cotomttted by tbe.^e iMQTgents, tee
VoL X« p. lOa— 178.
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somUT.
•hare m w»U m lo^^tlty in frodscbg ths aeUMi fcr trideh Wsl-
worth is parliciiltriy ditUngiiithed. The urdwtTwi wipcctiiig
theie bouaes wn, bammnt, again aanliaMd by Hovy VL but
ui ISM, aa Fabiaa lalenBa us, thejr ipere Ibr some tioM «ua«
babitad. It iwa a«>t hog bafeva they ware again opened, thai
u, 80 BMMy aa ware penaitled; ** ftr wbcreaa beCMe were eigh*
teen beaaaa» fraai thaaeefcrtb were a|falnled to be need bat
twelve only.'' Theae privileged atewa bad algaa painted en the
fiiinta wjiieh looked towarda the TbaMS* aaOe Boax'e Head, the
Cme K^a, the G«a, the Oanbnl'a Hat, Ice. Stow nhtea,
Ibaithe womo who fteqaented them wom tebidden the righta
if thai fihnieb, and exoiaded fron Chmtian bvrial, wleas they
weie reeoaeiled to it befcce they died. A-plet of ground called
the Single fVomm*$ CAMwAyw^ at aoaie diatanoe fimn the
periah chiireb, waa.tbenafoea appointed far their iotennent. In
1«46, theae a^wa were aapproMad by Henry VIU. and it wm
pfodlilttedby soasd of tmnpe^ that they abanldbe no lenger pit*
vileged and need aa a common brothel, but that the infaabitenta ware
to keep good and hepMat ndea aa in ether pbeaa of thia realm.
ThiB dink waa a gaol for the eeafiaement of anch aa ahoaH
'' brahbk^ ftay« or break the penpe on the aaid bank, or uitha
brothel-honaea.'' Tbiapriaon atill eaiata, andhaabeencepimenled
aa a fiHhy, noisome dnngeoa. TheBiahepof WiiHAealer'aefeewasd
triea, ^eas of deb^ damageib «r tseqiass* within the Clink libei^
Ibr any som.
. On the Bank-side wnssitaated the priMpalthaatoaefita time,
called. the Glob^, where the plays of oar inimitable Shakapeare
were first r^resented. . The oonlraat which Ueae ewly plaeea
of dramatic entertaiDment nnat form with ^hoae of the pnaeat
day is evident from a paapage in Stow, who r«fate% that ia l«id^
V by negligent dischaiging of a peale of ordaanoe" in this theatre,
*' the thatch tooke fire, and the wind aodainly dispetat the flame
round abont, and ia a very abort time the whole building was
qoite consumed, and no man hart, the house being filled with
people
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it was sew Iniilded in fur Ikirar maimer thui before.'' TMii play*
ho«w k m4 te tiM Magna BiitaMia ^ to !»▼• beea inei Qikif ill
IIm eaamier BBOOtha. en aeconnt ef il» Mtnalion eii tiM -fcairiM of the
Near t^ Mie ef tke GMe, ^he Heaiery ef wlMk is yel ia«
taned in OMr AOe^, was the Biur Oofrfitt. '« HeMin/' aaya
SiDw, ** were ke|it fceares, Mte^ and[«ftterlMa«leB» t(»l»»bifyted$
as also maatrrea in eefarai kcaaels aoarkheA tobqrt tiMB.
Tbeae blares anil ather Jbtaitu are tlwva keptin plated grandl
aeafcHci abaot ibr the beWMera to atand safe/' • U bppaam^
Ikat ia tins ifistriet, daring the ra|:n el Qaeen SKaabelk, tiAre
were two of these Bear-gardens, one of whieb^ as we are infbittel
hj the wrUor jaat qaotedt« being over eiowded en a Bnnday, in
IMS, Ml down daring the peifcnnante, by whieb acoideBt nany
psrsoaa weM kSBed or nMined; « frieHAy warning, he adda, to
aaeh as delight more in tbe-emelty of 4eaals than in the wofkaoff
anrey. Beai^<haittng was in thaiagean amaaanMtot far persons of
the highest rank t*
Oae of the new bridges fn* wMeh sets of hritanieBihav^re-
osBliy been ehtaaned b dorigned to erosn'the Thames ftom the
kallam of Qaeen Btiaet to Bank-side; and to be called Ika
SoathwariL Bridge ; it ia alao propoaed to form a handsome abeel
ipsm the fcot of it to at Margaief a HW. Biarid ttia plan ISO
esrriad intoeflee^ it oaanot feii to piodnoo amateiial improvemem
ia tins «btriet of the Boaoagh.
Onlignaao bo Winehasler Hottse, en the sonth, fonneriy stood
tteiesidencoof the BIshqis of Roehesfter. It was pulled down
in 1604, and on the siloweie eceeted sereral teaoBMnts, whidi,
daring CroiiwelFa nsatpation, were sidd to Bobert Waller, who
keU them tiUikB Saoloialion^ wben they rsferted to the ftrmer
owner^r
• Y.SiU t Gbronick, p. 65a.
I In the eoatimiitioii of Stew's Chnmidc by Homtt» ii a earioos aceooal
of « budng of wild boatt* in 1606, boforo King Jtmot I. oaf the whole Bojai
f osuly, not escoptiag the Queea and the Princoti EUMbotli.
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ipaeiii mm, MimndM vith itaUs aai Mhm immMMet ibr
Um nie of ▼tfiow kisdb of pfHTW— », mpetkllj ▼«g«teUia^ Ike
pMiaptlM0lMftrilMliWi«geB«bew€rtMe if the Boivtfgli
aniktfl, M A tapflMt «r eaUc(|P^ femiM IB Ike 1^^
byTteMCtea liiwriiH ef iirteto tooi fcria Mwy po«
MMMdiMHn •fSt Smwr'spMk^fMkefwiiraikiivaNLt
wmL 1^llikiartHaliMadHpriM«tt«dM;ttihmi
haUMiOM fiir six Mhw peor ponoM, Imrfed bjr <
Al Ibe and sf the Higk Stmt b St. Mm-gmrtt'i HM.^kB
mW if liM eaeieirt clnoefa ef tlM anw Dttte, iriMi, Mag finr^^
ea the aaien efthepvlrii «tlh St SmMr's, me ce«T«tad iito
k Beiiie end prieeii, eniee MMved te MiU UiM^ aad ^
Rtod the Bmrmgk C^mfim-. The vhole hee klely heee
rebuilt, but bea notbing worthy of partioiihr aotioe. la the froat
fiuaag JMbdfaaaa Skfiei, wUeh m a eivliaiktiea ^ the ffigh
SImW thehaatlags f«r the eleelioft of u|BiiemlHiTea for tUi
boaough-eie aeaally erected. Oa the eppeaite aide of the alaail
iraathe Tafcartf /a», nhkh mi the maidiiioe of the Abbala of
Hyde, ta. Haaipahire, «h«itfer batdtteat^ or their pariiaaMitvy
duty, la^aiMd tivir preaeaaa ia the laetiapeiia. TMa waa the
hooae oelebnted by Gbauoer aa the plaae of imdiiaaai fm pi*
gfoaa fopairiag to Beoloatfa ahriaeateaatalNiry; aad the Tory
batUiag daaaribed by hiai eaMteitiH MW, whitoitwaa haradi
with the Seaaioaa fiavaav aad ether ooHiigaeaa ediiaaa. Wh«
febailfcit waa igaonally^ ealM the 7aMo«; aader the idea thtt
thiawaatheaaaKwiA'Mavd^and by that* appellMioa tt aliil
coaliaaes to be known. *
On
* TalM W8I a name formerly giveu lo a particiUar kind of dog ; a Tabard
is a Q9kt wAthoot sleevat, anoicntlj worn by noblemen and otben^ hoi the lae
of which it now OiPfified lo the Etraklft at Arqa,
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Oft te east mie ^ BiiOum mip¥^ i» i/^MmMm,^
etui of law and a priaoa« oriyifl>HyiBtcaffaJfafte4eteriai»»tto
of caoaeft and difir^ac^i beiwe^ ^ kiag't wmpiri
and ander llie coatioal of th^ faiJi^Viiiitff^iU of t)if mgrni I
eopoaiftted wiUini the kivg'ii ooi^ T^ thit yJiMB •!••
giiiky of |Hmci«^ aa4 ^th^t o&Boes on Iho higli mm^ wt.i
flitted, tiw^gb tho ofiwiders m trifd altW OUBftUiy. Tbejn*
riadictiw of this comf c^teada to tbo diilMio^ of Imimi aikt
iwmd WhUeluOl, oxe^to^p tkeoity of Uodoiv for aoliHioof doK
duuagw, treflf naap^ £co. kui Ii|dd9 to he iWMVtd to a Ugkcr tn»
kuttl whea Ibe subject of HMga^Wctedn Ikentoe of ivftfewda
Tbe ipriaon which contfuns about nisity xwmik is too iniaU, owl
nuch oat of lepair.
Sjoathward of the ManhaloMy end on the SMno eida of the
^Itieety ia the parieh church, of Sl^ QBono^ Tus MARTvn. The
origiaiel edifice wae of vcQr i^ieol lowMhiltioa, end belonged to
the Abbey of BeraiMmdfley, to which tt wen glTCB inline, hf Tho*
mee Afdme. Being in a very ruuMNui eteto^ the pefiahieaers ob«
^ined an Act pf PerUaqMat kt t^kmg de^^n the qU chnvcK vid
erecting another ; in con#e%aenee of whifik the Hfieeeal stnetaM
vae bt^^nn in 1734, aad finlihed in 179«. The psincipel en*
trance to this chnrch is at the vest ^ nhioh iaeca thaatnel^
and to which t^cpc is m W^ent by a flighiof steps. . Above the
doer ia. a seniiciccahir pediinen^ sii||tertQd by lefAk eohiSMS :
and oaench. aide; of tjUs pediment, whjich rives to tbs heighfcof
the roof» t|ie front is adorned with a bsji^itnide eiad vaseik Fioii:
Uuspart rises tlia t^ower, w^chr Uke the body of the baibfing. in
strengthened with m#tic q^ioin% Asenes ef Iftsic eebiSMSi, raised
upon the to^E^ si)ppiMf t the base of ths^ qNl^t .which has tiba on
the sf^gles and Qpeuing^ ia all th^fi^ses. The inbrneriaoaBi^
pesedof a nave aind two aisles, with geUenes on thsjiMttb, eaeth,
sjtd west sidaiy in the ktter of which is a gopdeisssn. Vbe ceib-
iflgs sjgB haiMl»oqid.y decorat<|d, aftd thawhek Uk well lighted by a
dbp^e range of windows.
In
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.. In tiM old chweh wat intoiml Edward Cocker, the celebrated
orithnetiouui, and the infiunoua Biahop Bonner, who died mise*
nbly in the Manhalaea, in 1M9, ia aaid to have been bnried in
tte ehnrcb-yanl under the eaat window.
> Oppoaito to -St Goorge'a Church, formerl j stood Suffolk Place,
ft nagaiieant maaaion^ erected in the reign of Henry VIIL by
CaMriea Brandon, Duke of 8uff»lk, who exchanged it with the
king ton tiia palaca of the Biahop of Norwich, in St Martinis
in the Fiolda. Ito namo waa then altered to Southwark t^lace,
and it waa naed aa • Boyal Mint for the. coining of money. It
waa aftarwarda given by Queen Mary to the see of York as a re«
oon^Miioa for York House, which her father had forcibly taken
fraai it ; and waa sold by Archbishop Heath, who, with the pro-
duce, purchased another residence for himself and his successors.
This nanaion waa then pulled down, the site was converted into
streets, and still retaining the name of the Mint, the inhabitants
aasnmed a privilege of protection from arrests, on which it became
for naay years the retreat of bankmpta and fraudulent debtors.
Though this privilege was taken away by Parliament^ in the reign
of Williaai III. it waa nevertheless maintained by violence in de-
fiance of the law, till totally suppressed under George I.
In Union Street, northward of the Mint, is Union Hall, a
handsome structure, appn^rmted to the purposes of a pdicc of-
ice ; and at the south-east end of Blaekman Street, in Horse-
monger Lane, is the County G^l amd Hc^e of Correction for
Surrey. The premises formerly devoted to the purposes of this
prison were situated near St. George's Church, and called the
White Lion, from having once been an inn, bearing that aign.
The preaent spacioua edifice was erected on the suggestion of the
benevolent Howard, and contains a good room for a court-haH,
a ohapel, offioea, and other suitaUe accommodations. Upon the
platferm, on the top of this prison, executions are performed.
Here in 1802, Colonel Despard, and sis of his associates, convict-
ed of higK treasoni underwent the sentence of the law; and m
- Maich'
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8UB&BT4 61
MarcU 1812^ two BriUsii seamen tak^n in arms agftiast Ih^ ooun^
try in the Isle of France suffered tbe same fate.
At the south- west corner of Blackman Street, is the Ki»g*$
Bench Prison, a place of confinement in debtors, and for idl
other persons sentenced by that court to suffer imprisonment It
consists of one large pile of brick buildings, comprehending 224
rooms : the south centre has a pediment^ under which is a
chapel. The place enjoys all the accommodations of a market,
and is surrounded by a brick wall, about thirty feet high, de-
fended by cheoanx defriu, without which the marshal, or keeper
of the prison, has Tery handsome apartments. The liberties, or
ruks, as they are termed, extend about three miles round the pri-
son, and the right of residing in any part of them may be pur*,
chased by debtors at the rate often guineas for the first hundred,
pounds, and about half as much lor each succeeding hundred
pounds of the sums for which they are in custody. Three dfty«
rules may be obtained in every term for 4s. 2d. the first day, and
ds. lOd. the others ; but these authorise the prisoner to go out ou
those days only for which they are bought. In both cases good se-
curity must be given to the marshal. Prisoners in any other gaol •
may remove hither by Habeas Carpus.
The parish of Christ Church was taken out of that of St
Saviour, and was originally part of the district called the Liberty
of Paris Garden. The first church was erected at the tepense
of Mr. John Marshal of Southwark, and finished in I67I, when
he endowed it with an estate of 601. per annum towards the
snpport of the minister. The steeple and spire, 120 feet high,
were not completed till 1695. This edifice, in consequence of
the badness of the foundations, soon became so ruinous, that in .
1797, Mr. Marshall's trustees applied to Parliament for power to
rebuild it, with th^ sum of 25001. which had accumulated in their
hands from the trust, and obtained an act for that purpose. The'
present structure was accordingly erected. It stands on the west
side of the road leadiog^from Blackfriars Bridge, is a plain brickt
, building,
7
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iittWNiig, ligliled t^ two ranges of irifi4«w», nai has a wtfun
tower, containing^ aight MHi, and aarmdaiitad by a eapola.
la fliia parish ia a CkaHip SbJbol fi>r thirty boys and twenty
gMa, tnahitaitt«tf by sabaariftlon, a WiftUUn/sB, and a neat AIwu*
k^use, in Cbnrdl StrtM, fevnded libont the year 1790, by
dMriea M^ft^, laq. inrtireaty-aix decayed honse-keepen, eaeb
of iriiao baa an a^per and lolrei^ rooili, #ith lOL per annum, and
aeiaMroaofcoda.
At the foot of BlidkMara BMfe ia A ntng« of bniUtiBga, wbieb
ftrmeriy coaflttaied part of the AW^ MHU. Thia extensive
doboefB wis mi on foot by a eonpany of apirited and opnlent
indrndaala, irith a tieir to otmnteraot the inlposi&na bat too fre-
qoeniiy praatSaed in the grinding of earn. It «aa fomiahed with
a aleam-0Bghie, contrived by Mesara. Bbulton' and Watt of Bir*
ndngham, whidi tomed ten pair of stonea, each grinding nine
bnahela of com in as hour without intermiesioii day or night;
bcnidea which, it gave motion to the variona apparatna for hoisting
and lowering tlie oom and flonr into and ont' of the barges, for
fiuiaii^ the corfr to keep it free from imparities, and for stfting
and dfieaaiag the 'meal, from itr first atate, till perfectly cleared
for the use of the baker. On the 3d of March, 1791, the whole
bailding, with the exception of the comer wing, occupied as the
honae and offices of the snperintendant, was reduced to ashes,
together with dlOdt) sacks of flonr which it contained. ^ The front
remakie4 ftw many yesra unrepaired, but has lately been formed
into a row of handiome private hftbitaliotia.
On the opposite side of Albion Place ia the house belonging to
the BHiM Plate Glais Mftmufactofy. Thia company, in*
corporated by Act of FariianMnl, in 1773, carry on a flourish-
ing concern here, and at their worics at Ravenhead in Lancashire.
On the west side of Blackfriars Roacf, very near the bridge, is
the building a few years since oeoupied by the Museum, col-
lected by the late Sir Ashton Lever, and removed hither from
Leicester Square, when it became tile property of Mr. Parktnsott«
9 This
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TUt cwMib, nteism, ini vifcable, edlectioft Mere experieberi
tiw MttiiiortiiyiBgiMylect,tiBiit MO^ft wtt Sadly AipeMa
hf poUie MwtiM, ia m ide irUck kstei fcrty dbyi. The pre«
,WMi«Kiiowoeciipidl*j the Airrejr /fMiiMMm, ese ef IhoM
iwAil wteblkhoMttte Feoentiy femed in «he oietxtipolis lor the
dUWen of Btiettce. Ito tkjBft comprnm a series ef lediire^
extsiwiTe libi*ry» aadl rendiaig^robiiis, m dMnical eldNHratory, aorf
pUIow^lueal appenitu. A supplementary Itbnry hss ilse been
•oBestod, Mid the boolu belonging to it nmy« under eertain restrte<>
tioM, be penned atr the houses of tire sobseribers. The pro-
pietovs are limited to 700, and pay 50 gnineas for each share;
whieh eatitlee them to personal admission, and a trausferaUe
ticket.
The Smrrey Chapet, on the eaatside of BladrfKsrs Road, is
a large octagon bnildtng, for the use of Protestants of the Metho-
dist persnsMon, and was erected* by the friends of the trortliy, but
•eeentric, Rowland Hill, who here preaches to rcry crowded an-
dtteries. The straetore is well adapted for the purpose of hear*
ing, and is capable of holding near 5000 persons. The organ by
SUlot, is not more remaritable for the sweetness of ite tone, than
ftr the extent of its powers, which are so great, that b one of
4be hynms descriptive of tiiundei^ many of the congregation are
said to have tinted.
Karther southward, and on the west side of the street, stands
the iWsg^sfen Hospihd, for the reception, maintenailce, and em^
ployaent, of such nnhappy females as are desirous of quitting a
life of proBtitntion. On its first establishment in 17«, this insti-
tution occupied a house in Presoott Street, Goodman's Fields,
wUch, in a few years, was found too small to satisfy the number of
applications for admission. In 1709, the present edifice was in
eonssquenee erected. It consists of four low brick boildings en-
closing a quadrangle with a bason in the centre. The chapel is
an octagonal structure, erected at one of the comers in the rear ;
and lo give an uoiibnn appearance to the court, a building with a
similar fF»nt is placed at the opposite comer. This institution is
calcu*
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M 8UREEY.
dJedaled for the acconunodatioQ of aboiifc eighty peiitenliatt
one tiBie. Oa their firtt adnAinion theee females ere reeeiyed
into a prebatioiuuy war^; they are seiwrated according to thcif
difierent deacriptioiia and ^atifieationfi; and each daae ia uder
the care of ita particalar asaiatant The treatraeot of the weaien
ia (rf the gentlest kind; anitable employment is provided for them,
and they are instmcted in the dntiea of religion. The time
which they remain in the house varies according to cireom-
atances. Great pains are taken to discover their relationa and
friends, and to effect a reconciliation : but those who are desd«
tote of such, are kept in the house till opportunity offers to pro«
cure them the fiieans of obtaining an honest livelihood : and no
young woman, who has behaved well during her residence in the
house, is discharged unprovided for. At the time of their dis*
charge, they are mostly under twenty years of age. Since die
establishment of this institution, iu 1758, 4000 penitents have
shared its benefits, and the result of actual inquiry has proved
that about two^thirds of the whole number admitted have been
permanently reclaimed.
At the end of Blackfriars Road on the west side, near the
Obelisk, is a place of public amusement^ lately denominated the
Royal Circus. It was first erected by subscription about thirty
years ago in favor of Mr. Hughes, a riding-master, who, in con-
junction with Mr. C. Dibdin, conducted it for some time with suc-
cess, as an exhibition of ballets, pantomimes, and horsemanship.
From some misunderstanding among the proprietors the enter-
tainments ceased, and the house was shut up for many yean^ till
it was again opened under the joint management of Messrs. Jones
and Cross. Having been destroyed by fire in 1805, the edifice
was rebuilt in a tasteful and ornamental manner. Under the judi-
cious management of that excellent comedian Mr. Elliston, the
exhibition of horsemanship has been abolished, and with the nev
appellation of the Surrey Theatre, this place has acquired more
of the spirit and character of the legitimate dvama.
The Obelisk, a plain structure of free-stone, forms in the cen-
tal
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mi p«iiitu vhkh tlie gmt aontii nad fr«n London, and lh«
xoftds from Weatminsler, Soothwari^ Newiogton, ind I^anbeth,
eoawetge. I( ^^M erected in 1771 duriiig tlie mayiHaUj^ and m
Ihhmw of Braaa Crosby^ Esq. who had been confined in the Tower
with Aldemaa Oliver, for the oonacientioiia discharge of his im-
gisterial daty.« An inscription on one side of the pedestal cos*
a^noratesthe cause of its erection; on the other three sides are
fluurfced the distances from Fleet Street, London Bridge, and
Westminster.
Between the Obelisk and the King's Bench prison, is the school
where Mr. Joseph Lancaster a few years since began to reduce to
pmctiee a system of education which has since been extensively
adopted in almost every part of the kingdom. At this school,
which is supported by subscription, five or six hundred children
are instructed in the mond duties, reading, writing, and arith*
aetic, under the direction of one master. The children learn to
read and write at the same time, by forming first the letters, and
then words, with their fingers in sand. Throughout this process,
the senior classes instruct the junior ; and emulation is recited by
rewards and promotion. The unnsnal order and method observed
in this school, and the discipline maintained without severity,
procure the prompt obedience of a well regulated army. To such
perfection baa this plan been brought, that, according to Mr. Lan*
carter, a thousand children may be taught by one master only, at
the trifling annual expense of five shillings each.
Sl George's Fieldi, which, about half a century ago, were lit-
tle better than a continued swamp, have, since the erection of
Westminster and Blackiriars Bridges, been covered with a new
town, containing some handsome streets, but chiefly composed of
houses, raised according to the taste, convenience, or caprice, of
various projectors.
Very near the Obelisk, and &cing Blackfiiars Road, stands the
neat new building erected for the School of the Indigent Blind
originally established in 1799, in the premises known by the name
of the Dog and Duck, for the purpose of instmctivg pffsons of
VQt, XIV. F that
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f6 StTRRET.
tint description in a toAe by whieh th^y may be able to proride a
Bttbsiatence. The preaent number of pttpila ia between fifty and
sixty, who are employed in the maaufoctiiFe of thread, window^
aaah, and olothes line, hampers, iricker baakets of every deacrip*
fion, bear*BaiB, and mats for hearths and carriages. In tiiese
different articles a trade haa been established, which yields to the
institution a yearly profit of 6001. in aid of its expenses.
At a small^stance from the school for the blind, is the boase
of the Philanihropic Society, a truly excellent institation,
combining the purpoaea of charity, industry, and police. Its
object is to give a good education, with the means of acquiring an
honest lirelihood,to the oflbpring of CouYicted felons, or to such
children as have themaelves been engaged in criminal practiceB.
At the first establishment of this society, in 17H8, the place of
reception for pupils was a small house at Cambridge heath, nesr
Hadmey ; but the encouragement received by the directors ena-
bled them to erect the present commodious edifice, which consista
of a large manufiutory for the boys, and a Spacious building ad-
joining to it for the girls. To these was, in 1806, added a large
and handsome chapel. The society has also a house at Berraoad*
aey, called the Reform, where all boys, who have themselves been
guilty of any crime, are in the first instanee placed, till they ap-
pear to be suificientiy amimded lor removal to the manufactoiy.
The latter contains not only accommddations for upwards of 100
boys, but also work-shops for carrying on various trades, as print-
ing, eopper»plate printing, book-binding, tailora* work, rope-mak-
ing, and twine-spinning, which are conducted on a large scale by
different master-workmen ftr the benefit of the society. Wif h one <
of these each boy is placed on admission ; and, when of a proper
age, hi is either bound apprentice to such master, or to some
tradesman of good character. The girls are brought up for me-
nial servants, and situations are procured for them as such, in
respectable &milies. The number of children under the care of this
society is about 180, of whom between fifty and sixty are girls.
Ph^nting the road leading from the Obelisk towards Westmin-
ster
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8I7BRS7. 67
ster Bridge the oorporation of LondoB has recently obtained of
the commiisaionen of the Bridge^oaae estates a gronnd^plot of
near twelve acres^ comprehending the site of the Dog and Dnck^
lately occnpied by the school for the Indigent Blind. On part of
this land it is intended to erect a new hospital for lunatics^ in-
stead of the old fabric in Moorfields, with suitable offices for the
reoeption and care of a larger number of patients than could ever
have been accooiniodated in Bethlem Hospital, and worthy of the
munificence of tiie city of London.
The Dog and Duck, so denominated from its sign, was former*
ly a house of public entertainment, which owed its origin to a
spring of purgative water that was discovered here> and was much
resorted to, on aeconnt of its proximity to the metropolis. The
proprietor finding it a profitable concern, was encouraged to erect
a large room, which he furnished with an organ, and other attrac*
tions to draw company ; but at length the violations of decency
and order committed here became so flagrant, that the magistrates
ordered the premises to be shut up. They were afterwards osed
for some time as a public kitchen for distributing soup to the ne-
cessitous poor, and lastly occupied as the school for the Indigent
Blind.
Newinoton Butts is not mentioned in the Conqueror's Sur«
▼ey ; but a church at Walworth is there' noticed, whence it is pro*
ble that, at the rebuilding of the church on a new site, it was sur->
rounded with houses, which obtained the appellation of Neweton^
as it is called in the most ancient records, but afterwards written
Newenton, and Newington. There is little doubt that the addi-
tion to its name was derived from the butts placed there for arch-
ers to shoot at It lies contigaons to the parish of Sj. George,
at the distance of about a mile from London Bridge. The parish
is of small extent, containing little more than 200 acres not co-
vered with houses; of which about fifty acres are occnpied by
market gardeners. The only manor in this parish is that of
Walworth, which belongs to the Dean and^ Chapter of Canter-
bnry,
i r? The
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68 stolttifiY.
The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is ia the peculiar jana^Kf"
lion o€ the Arehbishop of Canterbury. The old church bein;
found too small, the greater part of it was taken down, and its
dimensions considerably enlarged. The present edifice was com*
pleted in 1793; it is built of brick in the modem style.
Near the altar is a monument of J. Bacon, jun. erected by the
late Bishop Horsley, in memory of his second vife, with this epi-
tiq>h from the pen of that learned prelate, who is interred besida
her:
'' Prope hunc lapidem conditnm est illnd omne quod caducum erat
•piimtt matris-familias, Sarse, secundse uxoris peramats Samoelis
Horsley, LL. O. hujus ecclesiae per multos annos Rectoris ; Me-
nevensis autem primnm, post Roffensis, nunc Asaphensis ecde-
sias Episcopi ; Foemiilia sanctimonift prscellens, et morum comi-
tate amabilis, omnibus laudata, cara et jncunda yixit, mortua lu^
getur. Pauperum lachrymffi et pia vota, odorem ver^ divinum
spirantia, memoriam ejus condiuut, Anno setatis 54^ ineunte, ferii
hebdomadis 2^ die Aprilis 29 A. D. 1805, corpus fragile morbo
insanabili succubuit, cujus lent^ grassantis ssevitiam memorando
patientifle exemplo novemdecim annos pertulerat: Visum est Deo.
Opt. Max. clementissimo, vitam in contiuuis ferm^ dolortbus
actam, morte placido et spei plenH ad exitum^erducere.
Ubi tnus Mors aculeus ^ Ubi tua Oree est Victoria ?
Gloria Deo««...i^.... ...Hallelujah.
'' Has voces ore moribundo proferens, in morte insultans morti,
pia mulier obdormivit. Maritus octodecim superstes menses, diem
obiit ferii hebdomadis 6^ mensis Octobris die 4to. A. D. 1806,
aetat. 73. Sepultus est autem nni cum uxore Sari in eodem con-
ditorio. Ante uxorem Saram in matrimonio habutt Mariam reve-
rendi Joannis Botham filiam ; qu« yiro, dum ea viveret percara,
iofra triennii spatium a nuptiis, morte ei erqpta est cum bis pepe-
jisset. Sepulta jaeet juxta parentes sues et sororem in cceme-
terio ecdesis Alburiensis, in agro Surriensi, cujus ecclesis mari-
tus Rector erat. Filiol^e partu secundo edits, quie bimnla extinc
est, reliquie sub pavimento aacrosancti hujus adyti huraats
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817RRET« 69
Buit Filio qui priorem mater eoixa est, Yitam prorogavit Del
tnisericordia, Heneagio, qui vidui patris seiiectutem curis assi-
duis fovebat^ sacerdotium gerens, et ecclesiae cathedralis paterntt
Prebend*^ rius.
" Sibi el suis vivens posoit Samuel Horsley, A. D. 1805.*'*
On the south wall is the moaument of Captain Waghorn, a na*
val officer^ who ' escaped the fatal catastrophe which befel the
Royal George^ and died in 1787. Oii the floor of the old church
"was, among others, the grave-stone of George Powell, who is said^
by the editor of Aubrey, to have been styled JSTtng* of the Gyp-
sies, and to have died, in 1704, in very flourishing circumstances.
The most conspicuous monument in the chnrch-yard, is that of
William Allen, a yonng man who was killed by the firing of the
soldiers, in the riots which took place in 1768, on occasion of the
confinemept of John Wilkes in the King's Bench prison. The
inscription asserts, that he was " inhumanly murdered by Scottish
detachments from the army ;" and there are also texts of scrip-
ture, which seem to be applied with a high degree of rancour, as
an excuse for which it must be admitted that this monument was
F3 erected
* This distiDguished prelate, who owed his high situation io the church to
his able defence of itr doctrines, and the discrimination of his noble patron.
Lord Thorlow« was instituted in 1769 to the rectory of Newingtoo, which he
held till his translation to the see of Rochester in 1793. He was not only
remarkable for the abilities which he erinced as a polemic dirine, in his well
known and soccessful contr9versy» with the celebrated Dr. Priestley, but was
also highly esteemed as a mathematician* and classical scholar, and has left
behind him many proofs of his talents in those departments of Uteratore, both
in separate publications, and in his contributions to the Transactions of the
Royal Society. He published also several charges and sermons, deliTcred on
public occasions ; and, as » preacher, was mach admired for his nerroes lan-
guage, and impressive delivery. In 1788 he was elevated to the tee of St. ^
David, in 1793 removed to that of Rocbester« and in 1809 trantleted to the
see of St Asaph. As a senator he ranked in the very first class, and while a
member of the House of Lords, there were few important discussions in which
be did not take a part. He died nnexpectedlj of a bowel complaint at
Brighthelmstone, to which place he had gone chiefly whh the intention of
visiting his patron, Ijord Thurlow, whom, on his arrivali he found s coipaCt
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70 auRBSt.
erected during tbe Yioleuoe of party rage, and in tbe first irans-
portB of resentment, by parents who had lost an only son.
The parsonage heusOj built of wood, appears to be very ancient,
and is snrronnded by a anoat, over which are four bridges.
Near the Elephant and Castle in this parish, is a conYentide
on the front of which ia inscribed, in large letters, Th£ House
OF God. The congregation, by which it is frequented, profess
not to difler from the church ai England, except in their confi*
dent belief of the near approach of the end of the world. The
inner waUs of the building areooTcred with paintings, the subjects
of which, says Lysons, are the dreams of the artist, who was a
member of thia congregation.*
In this parish is a Charity School, in which thirty boys and
twenty giria are clothed and educated by subscription. The
school-house was built in 1775, at the sole expense of Mr. James
Tracey. That for the Suaday-achool wsa erected by gubscription
in 1803.
The Draper^ Ahns-houses, founded in 1661 by John Walter,
are also situated in this parish, which haa the privil^^ of ap-
pointing aix of its own parishioners ; the rest being nominated by
the Drapers' Company. They receive monthly fiye shillings each,
and half a chaldrcm of coals, to which the parish officers add a
weekly pension aa they see fit
Stow relates that on the 90th September 1575, there was so
great a flood at .Newingtoa, that the people could not pass from
tiie dinrch on lbot» but were obliged to be conreyed in boats to
the pinfi>ld near St George's in Southwark.
BEEMOKD8EY borders to the west on the parishes of St John,
8t. George, and St Olav^ Southwark; and to the west on those
of Oeptford and Rotherhithe« In thia parish the business of
tanning ia onrifid on to a greater extent than in any other part of
the kingdom ; and here are also many wooUstaplers, feltmon-
gers, curriers, leatiier-dresaers, and parchment^makers. The
water-side is occupied to a considerable extent, by various trades
iconnected with shipping, all of which have been great suflfereis
by
* Eariions of London* L f ^.
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8UEBBT. 71
by the reHMval of tnlBe, iu oonseqaence of the opening of the
new docks. At a place denominated the Neckinger was, for
•one time, carried on a manufacture of paper from straw ; bat the
nndertaking did not succeed, and the premises are now a mann*
fiictory of Morocco leather.
Here, in 1082, was founded a priory for monks of the Cluniao
order, by Aylwin Child, a citizen of Loudon^ and William Rufus
gare his manor of Bermondsey to this conToit. It was original-
ly a cell to that of La Charity, in France, and sei^, among
other alien priories, by Edward IIL in 1371. A few years after-
wards, it was restored to its privileges by Richard II. and made
an abbey in 1399, by Pope Boniface IX. At the dissolutbn, in
1538, its annual revennes were valned at 4741. 148» 4)d. In this
abbey died Catharine, queen of Henry Y. January 3, 1436-7;
and in I486, Elizabeth, queen of Edward IV. was sentenced by
an order of council to forfeit all her lands and gooda^ and to be
confined in this place, where she soon afterwards ended her life.
The site of the abbey was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir Tho*
mas Pope, who pulled down the church, and built a large house
on the spot, which afterwards became the property and residence
of the Earls of Sussex. Another eonsidcorable part of the site
was sold to the last abbot, who had been elevated to the see of St
Asaph; and, haTing passed throagh several hands, is now the
property of James Riley, Esq. whose mansion is denominated th#
Abbetf House. In the garden belonging to it, be has erected an
Egyptian pyramid, on which has been placed a Saxon cross^ ior-
merly fixed in the wall on the south side of the abbey gate-way.
This gate-way, together with some old buildings towards the east,
eonsisting partly of bricfc, and partly of timber, intemixed with
lath and plaster, was standing a few years since, and commonly
called Su John's Palace, on no better fonndation than many
other traditions, ascribing ancient edifices to that monarch.
These, which q>parently formed part of the convent, or its appur-
tenances, were pulled down, together with the gateway, ia 1807,
for the purpose of making a new street
The Church at this pbee, mentioned ia Domesday Surrey,
F4 was
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72 sottHBy.
mm doubtless the contentaal ehurch, then newty built ; tor it iray
not tiii loog afterwards that the monks foimded a parochial choreh
here, and dedicated it to St Mary Magdalen. The present strae-
tore was erected In 1680: it is of brick, and consists of a chan-
edt nave, two aisles, and a transept At Uie west end is a low
sqoare tower with a torret. It contains no monoments worthy of
particoiar notice.
la the parish register the following very singnlar entry ocean
in &e year 1604.
'' The forme of a solemne Towe made betwhst a man and his
wife, having bene longe absent, through which occasion ^e wo-
man being maried to another man, tooke her agun as foUoweth :
'< The Man's Speach :
*' Elizabeth, my beloved wife, I am right sorie that I have 'so
longe absented mysealfe from thee, whereby thon shonldest be
occasioned to take another man to be thy hosAmnd, Uierefore I do-
now vowe and promise, in the sight of God and this companie, to
take thee againe as mine owne ; and will not only foi^ive thee»
but also dwell with thee, and do all other duties unto thee, as I
promised at our mairiage.
'* The Woman^i Speach :
'' Raphe, my beloved husband, I am right sorie that t have is
thy absence taken another man to be my husband; but here, be-
fore God and this companie, I do renounce and forsake him, and
do promise to keep myseaife only unto thee duringe life, and to
performe all duties which I first promised unto thee in our mar-
riage."
Then follows a short prayer ; and the entry concludes thus >
** The first day of Augul^t, 1604, Raphe Goodchild, of the paridi'
•f Barkinge in Thames-street, and Elizabeth his wife, were agreed-
to live together, and thereupon gave their hands one to another,
making eitherof them a solemne vow so to doe in the presence of us,
William Store, Parson.
'* Edward Coker,
and Richard Eh^s, Clark."
liie
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'' Janes Hmi<4t^ Eiq. aad Elisabeth Jesey^ Gent nere mar*
tied Jan. 4^ 1694-d. N. B. This James Hemott mui one of tiia
fiurty children of his iaiher, a Sootcfaman."
in this parish is a Free School, Ibanded ivtih the s«m of 70H
hefneathed far that pwpose hy Mr. Jeaiah Baeon, who ako &h-
dowed it vith 16(M, per annomf for the education of not moro^
than sixty, or feirar than forty, boys. Tfaonaster receives ML
per attaam, the usher 50L and the remainder is appvopriated to
repairs. Here is also a Chatrky Sciool, established by the joint
contrii^utioDs of ^arioas persons, and towards which, in 11765,
Mr. Nathaniel &nith beqaeathed 401. per aaannu It affi»rda
tdacation to fifty boys and thirty giris.
A well-known pta»e of entertainiyient in tins parish was called
the Berwtfmdseff S^ tarn some water of a chalybeate nature
discoTered there ahoot 177«^. The late |fr. Thomas Keyse had,
« fewywars hebve opened bis premises as a phice for tea^drinking,
and exhiUted.a collectien of the prodnctaons of bis own pencili
which, as the works of a aelf*tanght artist, pessonscd consider-
able merits Aboat.1780 be procured a licence for nmsicd eatw-
leinmepits^ after the manner of Vaaxhall, and for seTersl yearn
lus gardens wfire open e?ery evening ii| the snnuner sei^son.
Fire-works were oocasionally exhibited ; and a few times in the
floorse of the year an exMllent representation ef the si^;e of
Gibraltarf consiBtiBg of iire>-works and tnmspareneies, the whole
aontrived by the prq^rietor of tiie gardens, who possessed eonsi«
derable mechanical abilities. The height of the rock was about
fifty feet, the length 200, and the whole apparatos covered about
four acres. Mr. K^se died in 1800, when his pictures were sold
by auction. The gardens were shut up about the year 1805, and
^e site has since been built upon.*
Eastward of Bermondsey, on tiie banks of the Thames, is
RoTHEXHiTHB, commouly called \R^dlr(^. Lysons derives ita
namf
* ]LysQos' EnTiroB^ of London, Vol. I. p. 5^
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74' 8C7SUY.
name from the Stxon w^nb rbii^. a uOmt, iai kjfHk, n hftvai,
or idiarf 7 but m the Me^^na Brifmmia H b Mid to uglify JUd
Ro$e'Hm>en,^ wlnoli ititeiyyetotiw seems to be avj^orted by
the vulgar appellation.
*Tke €kmftk, dediealedl %b St Mary, was built ehkBy by the
Tdlaiitary eubsoi^ptkiDa of tbe inbaUlaBtt in 1714 and 1716; b«t
tbe toirer was^iiolfl&iahedftin 17W. It ia of bride, iriA alaiie
qvhtha, «ttd comdsta of a naye, ebaaod, and two ttafees, aeppoitei
by piilara of the Ionic order. The tower is snrmoanted by a atona
spire raised upon Corinthiaa cohnuur. -
4%te only monument worthy of partleidar notioe is that of tbe
interesting Prince Lee Boo, who fell a "Hetini to the aanB-pox at
the house of Captain Wilson in Pftradise-roir. He was interred
in the chorch-yard here, and on his tomb is 'diia inaeriptiott:
** To the memory of Privce Lbb Boo, a native of tiie Pelew/
or Palas Islands, and son to Abba ThuHe, Rnpadc, or Idnf of
the island 6oo-roo-raa, who departed this life on the STtti of
December, 1764, agtd twenty years, tlita stone is inscHbedby
the Honourable Btet-India Company, as a testimony of the ha*
mane and kind treatment afibrded by Us lather to the crew ef
thtirship the Antolope, Captain Wilson, which was wredced «ff
that islattd in the night of the 9th of August, 178S.
'' fltopi reader, ttopk let Nature dsim a tear,
^ A Friase ofaifaei Lee Boo^ liei haiiSEllMRk''
A Free School was founded in this p^h in 1613, by Peter
HUk and Robert Bell^ Bsqa, and endowed with a uiall aamial
income fiur the education of ^ht sons of seamen. These chil*
dren ana yiow dothed ^ well as educated. With this institution
the CAorily School, eaUblished in 1743« ha^ been consdidated;
and the permanent income arising from nnm^fous bene&ctioos,
fad aided by the subamptieoa of the iuhabitanta^ now snfice to
dotiie and educate forty boys, exdusiTdy of the eight on the
oU
* If agps Britaimity V. 345.
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flVKBST. 7ft
•U fevadftlioii^ and tweaty-Ave giilc. In the Jmicabh Soeieif
SdMol, flopported by Yohutary contribiilioM, finty^ftf e boys are
•dnealed, b«t iMyt dothed; and m a third, called The Vmtei
Society School, thirty-one boys reeeiTe instruction. This fault
is also supported by Yolantary contribations; and the sdiooi*
faonae is batlt on a piece of grovnd giTcn for the poipose by tha
Pake of Bedfoid in 1792. There are Smulajf Schools also fiir
Ibiiy boys and forty girls ; and a School ofhidustry for twenty
girls, tdcen, aecordiag to seniority, from the latter.*
In this parish began the treneh which Cannte is said to have
cut for the pnrpose of besieging the d^ of London by water j
and the ehannd throogh which the riyer was tamed in 1173,
prepsrslory to the rebnildtng of London-bridge, is supposed by
Blow to have taken tiie sane eoarse. LanAaide informs us, that
Botherhithc was the residence of Khig Henry IV. whilst he waa
cored of hb leprosy : and Manning mentions two charters signed
there by Aat flM>ttarch.t
Ontiie let of June, 1765, a dreadfol fire bioke out in a mast-
yard near the church, and in a few hours fHinsumed 206 houses.
If o Ktos irere lost ; but the damage was estimated at 100,0001.
In 1606, an act of Parliament passed for making a wet dodc
here: it was finished in 1700, and called the Great Dock. In
1725 the Soutii Sea Company took a lease of it, intending to
reTiTe the Greenland fishery, upon which it receiyed the name
of the GreenUmd Dock. It afterwards becasM sueoessiToly the
property of Means. Wells and Mr. Ritchie, of whom it was pur*
chased in 1807 by a company of merchants, the concern being
dirided into 1900 shares. Under the denomination of Ae Com*
mereid Docks it has been much enlarged. A new dock of fil^
teen acres was opened here January 22, 1812 ; so that the Com*
mercial Docks noif compriae an area of about forty acres of
water, with wharfiige and bonding-yards sufficient to receive 200
saU
* |«yiOBS* EnviroDfl, Vol. T. p. 3^.
t HiMoiy of Soncy, VoL L p. «t9.
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kail of 6bipB. It h chkAy used for tke bonding of limlier aii4
Baltic produce, and is gtill appropriated to the reception of the
Greenland trade. .Adjoining. to the commercial dock another is
BOW making, to be called the East CmMiryDock, and designed
for the accommodation of the East Country and Ammcau trade.
This concern is divided into shares of 1001. each. Besides theso^
there are nine dry docks at Rotherhithe; and the water-side is
occapied by wharfs and other premises connected with the ship-
ping; bat all these have sustained considerable injury by the^eata-
blishipent of the docks on the opposite side of the river.
The Surrey Canal, which commences near Wilkinson's gan-
wharf in this parish^ has already been noticed. In 1805, an act
of Parliament was obtained for making a tunnel mnder the Thames*
The proprietors were incorporated by the name of the Thama
Archway Company ; they were empowered to raise 2OO,000L in
shares of 1001. and " to make certain arched-ways fix>m the parish
of Rotherhithe to some part or parts of the parishes of Stepney,
Ijn^ehouse, Shadwell, and Wafping." The line fixed upon for
this proposed subterraneous communication was from about a mile
below Rotherhithe church, to the opposite bank at the Narrow*
wall^ Limehouse; and, from the consideration of various plans, it
was resolved that at first a small tunnel only, eight feet wide^
should be formed for foot passengers. Notwithstanding the dif-
ficulties and interruptions experienced in the course of this woik,
it was carried to low-water mark on the opposite side of the
river; but a difference of opinion as to the iiarther plan of opera-
tions arising among the directors, the work was suspended, and
has not been resumed.
Admiral /ohn Benbow^ and Sir John Leake, two celebrated
navi^ commanders in the beginning of the eighteenth century,
were both natives of this parish. The fqnner was bom in Win-
lershuU-street, now called Hanover-street.
Lamjbeth may be considered as the western extremity of that
portion of the metropolis situated on the south bank of the
Thames. The parij^h ia extensive, bf ing sixteen miles in cir-
cumfttence,
7
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SURREt. 7T
rnmfetence, comprehending about 4000 acres, and inchiding,
mnong others, the manors and hamlets of Vaaxhall, Kennington,
Stockwell, and Sonth Lambeth.
- The first mention made of this place in history is on occasion
of the death of Hardicanute, which happened here in 1041: He
expired suddenly during an entertainment given by a noble Dane
en his marriage, as some relate, of poison, but others, of intem-
perance. Harold, who usnrped the crown at the decease of fid-
ward the Confessor, is said to have put it on his head with his owa
hands at Lambeth. In 1231 Henry III. held a solemn Christmae
here ; and in the following year, as we are informed by Matthew
Paris, the Parliament assembled at this place. Lysons thinks it
probable that both these events may be appropriated to the palace
of Kennington. Hubert Walter, Archbishop of Canterbury, ob-
tained from King John a grant for a weekly market at Lambeth^
and a Mr for fifteen days, on condition that it shonld not be
detrimental to the interests of the city of London ; bnt both have
been long discontinued.
* At the time of the Conqueror's survey, Lambeth appears to
have had two distinct manors : one of these, conjectured to be
the same estate, afterwards called the manor of Sonth Lambeth
and Stoekwell, was then the property of Earl Morton. The
other, or North Lambeth, had belonged to the Countess Goda»
the Conqueror's sister, by whom it was given to the see of Ro-
chester. In 1197 it was exchanged by the latter for the manor
of Darwent with Hubert Walter, Archbishop of Canterbury, and
to that see it has ever since remained annexed.
Lambeth Palace, the residence of the archbishop, situated near
the Thames, is an extensive pile of hrregular buildings, exhibit-
ing the architecture of various ages. This palace was, in a
great measure, if not wholly, rebuilt by Archbishop Boniface
about 1262 ; but, as Lysons observes, the architecture of the
chapel seems to belong to a still more early period, the windows
resembling those of the Temple church, whiqfc was built in the
twelfth
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W SUKIST.
twelftb eeotury. Thej were fiimierly of puBted flbtm, psi
vp by CMiiial Morton, and represeDted the seriptiiial 1iift«
tory of the OM mod New Teetament The repwiing of this
glaar eonttitsted one of the ehargee preferred against Arch-
hidiop Land ; and the wiadowa were destroyed by the Puri-
tans. Underneath is a crypt, the arches of which, like those of
the chapel, are'bnilt with stone. In the chapel the remains of
Arehhishii^ V^Am were deposited, agreeably to his own request^
nnder an altar-tomb which he had erected for himself near tho
commanion-tahle. When the palace was sold in 1648 by direo*
tion of the P^rliamenty this diapel was converted into a dancing*
room ; the monument was resMred, the leaden oofim sold to n
plnmber, and the corpse of the yenerable prelate thrown into a
liole in one of the out-houses. After the Restoration it was re«
moTcd by order of the House of Lords, and again interred in
its finrner situation. The spot is marked by a marble slab, witt
thia inscription : C^rpms Maiihm ArcUepi$capi itmdem Uc
fntesctr. The old monnment was placed in tbe yestibnle of the
chapel by Archbishop Bancroft, who caused a Latin inscription,
ascribed to his own poi, to be placed npon it Li the Testry are
some portraits, among which are those of Cardinal Pole; Dr,
Williams, Bishop of Chichester, 1696 ; Dr. Evans, Bishop of
Bangor, 1707; Dr. Gardiner, Bishop of Lincob, 1694; Dr.
WUchooie, Fhnrost of King's College; and Dupin, the writer on
ecclesiastical history.
The great hall, which measures ninety-three feet by thirty^
eighty and has a Gothic roof of wood, was rebuilt by Archbi-
shop Jnzon, after the old model, at the expense of 1 IfiOQL The
guard-room, fifty-six feet long, and twenty-seven and a half
wide, appears to have been built before the year 1424; it is
roofed like the hall» and contains a whole length picture of Henry
Prince of Wales. The great dining-room is about thirty-nine feH
long, and half as wide ; and a handsome drawing-room and dress-
ing-room were added in 1769 by Archbishop ComwaDis. Thf
9 loqg
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BVWXt, 9§
long gillery, generally supposed to have been buitt by Cardinal
Pole, is ninety feet in length, and sixteen in breadth ; the vains-
cot is entirely of mantled carving. Over the chimney-piece is a
portrait of Lather, a fine picture of Archbishop Waibam, by Hol-
bein, and a portrait, said to be that of Catharine Pair. Here are
also pictures of Archbishop Parker, an original by Lyne; Car-
dinal Pole, copied firom a painting in the Barberini palace at
Borne : and the foUowing among other portraits : the Archbi-
shops Amndell, Chichele, Cranmer, GrindaU, Whitgift, Abbot,
and all the succeeding prelates from lAud to Archbishop..Moore
indusire; Pearce;, Bishop of Bangor; Mawson, Fletcher, Moor,
Patrick and Gooch, Bishops of Ely ; Lloyd and Hough, of Wor-
cester; Burnet, of Salisbury ; Thomas, of Winchester; Hoadley,
painted by his second lady ; Berkeley, of Cloyne ; and Bundle,
of Derry. In the windows are the coats of seymd archbishops
painted on glass ; but some of a more ancient date were removed
when the fine bay-window was made by the late archbishop. The
view from this window is remarkably beautifuL St PauPs,
Westminster-Abbey, and the bridge, are seen to great advantage^
through openings fonned among the trees in the pleasure-grounds,
which exclude the rest of the city.
The library occupies the four galleries over the cloisters, which
form a small quadrangle. The erection of this building is ascribed
by Aubrey to Archbishop Sheldon.; but it appears to be older
than the foundation of the library itself, for which the see is in-
debted to Archbishop Bancroft, who bequeathed all his books to
bis successcHTB. His example was folbwcd by Archbishop Abbot.
Daring the dril war this collection was seized by the Parliament ;
many of the bodes found their way into private hands, and the
rest were given to Sion College ; but, through the influence of
the learned Selden, they were at length removed to Cambridge,
which university, he contended, had a reversionary right to them,
agreeably to the will of Archbish<f Bancroft. After the Rcfrto-
ration they were daimed by Archbishop Jnxon, ai»d recovered by
his.
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(Ml fl(t7Rlt£V.
hk snccesftor. With tiie additions sin^e made to tkiB ecAfecfiini^^
particularly by Archbiahops Sheldon, Teniaon, and Seeker, ft;
now amoimta to about 25^000 volames. The library eontams
a few portraits, among which is an original of Archbishop Ban^
croft; and a set of prints of all Ihe archbishops since IQM, col-
lected by Archbishop Comwallis. The windows are adorned witik
8ome painted glass. The great tower at the west end of the cka*
pel, usoally odled the Lollard's Tower, was boilt of stone by
Archbishop Chichde^ in the years 1434 and 1436. At the top of
it is a small room wainscotted with oak, on which are sereral
«iames and broken sentences in old characters cat with a knife.
In the walls are fixed large iron rings, intended, as it is gene>
lally believed, to confine the Lollards, and otiier unfortonaM
persons accused of heretical opinions. So much is certain, thai
before the Reformation the ar^bishops had a prison here fiir the
punishment of ecclesiastical ofienders ; and at a later period, not
only the popish bish<^s Tanstall and Thirlby, but many other
persons of rank were confined at this place.
The gateway and the adjoining tower, which are of briok»
were built by Archbishop Morton about 1490.
The gardens and grounds, containing about thirteen acres, are
laid out with great taste. They were ranch improved by the late
archbishop, who made a convenient access to the house for caiw
riages through the grounds. In the garden, againit the wall of
the palace, are two fig-trees of the white sort, and of extraiNr-.
dinary size. They are described by Ducarel* as covering a sur^
&ce fifty feet in height, and forty in breadth. Since this time,
however, ihey have been twice destroyed down to the trunks by
severe frosts ; but the branches have shot out again with such
luxuriance, that they have attained the same height, and are
at least sixty feet in width. Tradition relates, that these trees
were planlsd by Cardinal Pole.
The foBowlttg archbishops have died at this place: Wittleaey,
in 1375; Kemp, 14U; Dean, lOM; aU buried in Canterbury
Cathedral
*HiftoiyofLsmbeth Palace* p. T^^ 79.
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OadieJbnit; Ca^ind Pole, 1558; After lying in state here ferty'
days was buried at Ganterbory : Parker, 1576, buried in Lani«
beth chapel; Whitgift, 1604, buried at Croydon; Bancroft*
1610, buried at Lambeth; Jaxon, 1663; buried in tiie chapel of
St John's college, OjiLford; Sheldon, 1667, buried at Croydon ; '
Tillotson, 1694, buried in the church of SL Laurence Jewry,-'
London; Tenisdn, 1715, buried at Lambeth; Wake, 1737; and:
Pdtter, 1747, both buried at Croydon; Seeker, 1768; Cornwall*
lis, 1783; and Moore, 1805; all buried at Lambeth.
Lambeth palace felt tiie effects of popular &ry in 1381, when
the archbishop, Simon of Sudbury, fell « victim to the resent^
ment of Wat Tyler and his followers. Here Catharine of Amn •
gonlodgedforsomedays.with her ladies on her first arrival in^
England; and here her daughter. Queen Mary, who furnished «
thu palace st her own expense for Cardinal Pole, ocoasioually ho*
nonred him with her company* At this place also. Queen Eli<^:
2«ibeth paid fbequent visits to arcshbishops Parker and Whitgift, :
with whom she sometimes staid two or three days.* In 1643,
Hie Pariiament took possession of this edifice, sold the fimiitare,
and converted the palace into a prison. At length, in 1648, it^
Was put up to sale, «nd purchased with the manor lor 707<8I. by
Thomas Scott and Matthew Hardy ; the former of whom was se-
oretai^ of state to the Protector, and was execoted in 1660, as.
«ue of those who had sat on the trial of Char^ 1. : but after tka^
Restoration this palace reverted to the see of Canterbury. In.
. Vow XIV. G the
* In one of these Tisits to Archbbhop Parker, the haughty Elisabeth was^
guilty of a rodeness that would be deemed unpardonable in a private indi-
yidual. The arcbbuhop, who wrote a treatise on the lawfuhiess of priests
marrying, had himself entered into that state before the statute which en-
joined celibacy to the clergy was repealed. The queen, who never could,
\f9 reconciled to this inuovation, is said to haye expressed her dislike of it
<Mi taking leave of Mrs. Parker, after haTing been samptuoosly entertained
nt Lambeth, in this coarse manner ; ** Uadum I may not call yon ; mislreis I*
•m ashamed to call you ', yet as I know not what to call you, yet I thank
yuB." Harrington's Vieir of the State o^ the Churchy p. 4.
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W9 BhURKf.
tbt diagfAeefiil rioU in 17Sd, it mn again thiwft««ad with tlie
popalar veiifeaace^ iwt proserved from iiyiiry bj Ae tifliely arri-
Til of tb^ mUitery.
The chttrck of Lamleih, dedicated to the Viigin Blary, slaaie
near the riv«r, a^i^tiung the archiepUeopal palace. Thia edifice
waareboiltbetween 1374 and 1377. The tower of free-sloBe yet re-
maiBa; but the other parts of the preaeat atnietvie appear to be of
the Jiye ef Henry V II. and were probaUy erected nt difeent ttmea
toward the concbiaion of the Idth, ipid in the beginning of the
16th, centnriea.* It conaiata of a naYc, ^wo nialei^ and a ehan*
eel ; the eaat end of the north aiale waa forqierly caUed Heward'a
chapel^ and that of the eonth end Leigh'a ; but these wereinav-
porated with the church when it was repaired and enbeUiahed in
17^ In one of the windowa ever the nare ia the figure of a
pedlar and hia dog, painted en glaaa, Tiyditionaalatea that itre*
preaenta a peraon of thi^ ocoopaUon* who h«|aeathed to the pa-
rish a piece of bad now called Pe41ar'e Acre; hot it hna been
snggeated, and with gnat pvebebility, that thia figure waa in-
tended mlher as a rebna npon the name of the beneiiGter, than as
daacripliire cf his tradcf
In the chancel are the raonnmenta of the MlowingardibishopB:
Bancroft, who died in 1610, aged 67; Tenisen, 1715; Hntton,
1768, agid 65; CorawaUis, 1783, aged 70; aqdMoor^ 1805,
aged 93; Seeker, who died in 1768, aged 76, lies bniied in tfa%
passage between the chnrch and tha palaee.|
Anbiey
• This church, aa Peanaot ohsenrei , witnessed a melancholy example of
IkJIen majesty in the person of the unfortunate qneen of James II. who^
flying with her infant son from the nun impending oTcr their boose, after
crossing the Thames from Whitehall, took shelter beneath the ancient waOi
of this edifice from the rain of th« inclement night of December 6# ICSS.
Here she waited till a common coach, procared from a ueigbbooring inn, ar>
rived to convey her to Gravesend, whence she sailed for France, and bads
an eternal adieu to these kingdoms.
t Hist, of Lamb. p. 51.
X For a brief account of all tl^ese prelates, tee Beauties, YoL VIH.
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•iTintfir. jBt
AAttj hm fnmimi ieTeril epitapln wliidi wert fMierfy in
nke chanoel, mmdig otb^n tbcMse of Oathbert ToiMrtaU^ Bisiiop wf
Dotiiani^ who died In 1559 ;r^ and Thomas Thirleby, Bishop of
fiiy, in l^Tfkf In the chancel is also a monument for Robcn
StoU, £i^. whose eontriviance of leaethern aitUleiy vontrihatel
tannh to tiw^lorsMVYictery gained at Leipsic, by the great Chis-
tsvns Adolphns, of Sweden.
. In the Howard cbspd are severd memorialn for persons he-
knging io the noble family of that nsme, and a maHUe sbib ia
the sonth aisle bears a Latin inscription, so mnch worn that rery
few of the words are legible. In memory of the cdebrsted aati*
^nary Elias Ashmole.
In the duiroh-ysfd is the singular nMnnment of tiie Trades^
cants, erected in 1662, and repaired by subscription in 1779^
iiben the old poetical inscription was preserred.
G2.. The
* Bishop Tanstalt wu a %trtkmg example of the Yicisritodes of fortane,
hafing bees deprired, rettdrad» and deprived egun. Unlike laost of the GS*
tliolics to the ceign of the cniel Htr j, be beheved with greeC modentioD
and banmnity towards the members of the reformed cherch^ On tbe sccee-
sioB of Queen Eliaabetb, he was sent to Lambeth palace in Jol^ 1559, and
committed to the free castody of Archbishop Parker, who treated him with
tbe Qtmost kindness, and at his death, which happened on the 18th of No-
vember following, boried him at his own expense. Tnnstall was the author
of several theoiogioU treatises. (Lysons' Env. T. Jld.)
t This prelate was introduced at court by Archbishop Cranser, aad em-
pbyed by Henry VIIL in some foreign embassies. He was tbe first and only
bishop of Westminster, afterwards appomted to the tee of Norwich, and
thence translated to Ely. Queen Mary joined him with the blood-thirsty
Bonner, in the commission for burning his former patron Cranmer, over whom
he is said to have shed tears, while his colleague acted the part of an uo-
teeling inquisitor. Thirleby was ten years a pnsoner in Lambeth palace,
where he received tlie kindest treatment. On opening the ground for the in-
terment of Archbishop ComwaUis, hit body was found entire, wrapped In
fine linen, and deposited in a leaden cofln. The face was perfect, tbe beai4
white and of great length, on the head was a silk cap, adorned with point
lace, and under the arm a slouched hat with strings. The coffin was properiy
elosed qp again, and covered with a bri^k srch. (Appendix to the Hist of
- .p.89.)
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I The Imrial-groiuid in the High.Sireel was gnrenlo'the palish,
IB 1705, by ArchlHshop TeniiioB. It contains the cemauis of EdA
ward Moore, author of " Fables for the Femde Se»," and Mm
|wetical and dramatic pieces. He was ako editor of the coUee^
lion of essays entitied The Worlds in which he was assisted by
Horace Walpole, and other eminent literary characters. He died
a few days alter the appearance of the last number of tiiis jpobli^
cation, March 5, 1757. In the same ground is interred Thonma
Cooke, son of an inn-keeper in Essex, who, devoting his atlen*
tion to literature, produced various works, of whieh his transla-
tion of Hesiod is considered the best He attacked Pope in a
performance entitled the '' Battle of the Poeie" which pitHmred
him a niche in the Dunciad. He published seveval dramatic
pieces, odes, a volume of poems, the Life of Andrew Marvd,
translations of Terence and Cicero, an edition of Vii^il, and
some treatises on religious subjects ; was for some years editor of
the Craftsman, and died in extreme poverty^ Jan. 1, 1767.
Here also is buried the Countess de la Motte, well known for th«
share which she had in some mysterious transactions in the courC
of France just before the Revolution. She ended her days in
this pariah in great distress ; and a few weeks before her dteth, in
order to avoid the bailifls, jumped from a two*pair of stairs win-
dow,, by which rash act she broke her thigh, and was othefwise
dreadfiilly maimed.
Aiiiong the celebrated rectors of this parish may be named
George Hooper, who died bishop of Bath and Welb ; Edmnnd
Gibson, afterwards bisliop of London, well known for his many
excellent and useful publications, particularly the Codex of Ec-
clesiastical Law, and an edition of Camden* s Britasmia; and
Beilby Porteus, late bishop of London.
The parish roister records the interment of some ronarkable
characten of whom no monnmental memorials remain. Among"
these is Dr. Andrew Peme, dean of Ely, and master of Peti^"'
kouse, Cambridge who b accused of having changed his religion
Ibur
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svftftrr*, 85
fiwrtiaNS in 12 yean; * and Simon Forman^ the celebrated astro^
loger t« Lambeth aeema to have been ftimoaa for the residence of
G 3 pemons.
* This divine wai much given to jesting, of which the following instance is
related among many others. Happening one day to c«ll a clei>ryman» who
WAS not wtioUj ondeterving of the title, a fool, the Jatter threatened to com*'
plmio to bit diocetan, the bishop of Ely. *« Do/' replied the doctor, ** and
he, wiU confirm yoo.*' According to Fuller's account, however, he was bnife
iir'qnalified to bear » jest himself. The doctor, as thHt writer intorms U4,
was one day at court with Archbishop Whitgift who had been his pupil.
Though the afternoon was rainy, yet the queen resolved to ride out, contrary '
to the inclination of the ladies of the court, who were to attend her on horse*
bl«k. They therefore employed Clod, the queen's jester, to dissuade her •
na|csty from her intention. He readily undertook the ta>k, and thus ad«'
dresaed ber majesty : '* Heaven dissuades yoa« it is cold and wet ; earth dis< .
svadesyou, it is moist and dirty ; heaven dissuades ^ou, this heavenly mind*
ed man archbishop Whitgift ; and earth di&suades 30U. your fi^ol Clod, such
a lump of clay as myself; and if neither will prevail, here is one who is nei*
ther heaven nor earth, but hangs between both. Dr. Peme, and he alao dis-
saades yoa." " Hereat," continues Fuller, '* the queen and the coortien '
laoghed heartily, whilst the Doeter looked sadly, and going over w iib his Grace
to JUmbeth, soon died." The date of his barial is May, ], 1.589«
f Fbrman professed the joint occupation of a physician and astrologep«
and was, says Lilly, " very judicious and fortunate in horary questions and
sicknesses." He was much consulted by all ranks of people ; among others
the famons, or rather infamous, Couutess of Essex, applied to hiro for his
assistance 'in her wicked designs, and wrote many letters to hiiu, in which
the calls him " dear father," and subscribes herself, " Your affVctioodte
daughter, Frances Essex." On her trial fur the murder of Sir Thomas Over^
bury, a book of Dr. Formau's was produced, in which he made all his visi-
tors write their names with their own hands before he would proceed fo
exercise his arL It is said that the recital of the names excited much mirth
in the court, and that Chief Justice Coke found his own lady's name on the
first leaf. Lilly tells the following curious story respecting For man's dea(h :
'* The Sunday night before he died his wife and he being at supper in their
garden-house, she being pleasant, told him that she had been inform^ he
could resolve whether man or wife should die first. Whether shall | (quoth
she) bury yon or no ? Oh Trahco, (for so he called her) thoo wilt bury
mt, hot thoo wilt sore repent it. Yea, but how long fint ? I shall dici said
he.
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penoM of Ibis professioD, amoDgwhom were daft BvU, fte Rer.
Dr. Napier, and Francis Moofe^ the original antbor of the almanac
which still goes by his name.
A monastery was founded at Lamheth in the twelfth cenUuy
hy Archbishop Baldwin. That pralate being opposed by the^
nonks of Canterbnry, who were &yoared by the conrt of Bone,
in his intention of erecting it at Hakyngton in Kent, procnrod, by
an exchange with the see of Rochester, a piece of ground here,
upon which le laid a new foundation. His plan was completed
by his successor Archbishop Hubert Walter ; but the monks, fiur
from being satisfied with this alteration of place» renewed their
UppUoations to the Vofe with such success, that afW the consent
was actually built and inhabited, and though it had received the
sanction and approbation of the king, the nobles, and prelates of
the land, the archbishop was compelled by a papal mandate, in
1199, to dismiss the monks, and level the walls with the groond.
The site of this edifice was granted by the archbishop to Gilbert
de Glanyille, Bishop of Rochester, who erected upon it a house
for himself and his successors, who occasionally resided there
till the sixteenth century^. At this house, eiAled La Place,
Arch-
be, ere Thursday nigbt Monday came ; all was well : Ttteaday came ; h«
was not sick : Wednesday came, and still be was well ; wiih which his im*
pertinent wife did twit him in the teeth. Thursday came, and dinner wss
ended, he very well | be went down to the waterside, and took a pair of oars,
to go to some baildtngs he was in hand with in Puddle Dock* Being in the
middle of the Thames, be suddenly fell down, saying, an impost an impost,
end |o died ; a most sad storm of wind immediately ensued." (Lilly's Life,
p. St, S3.) Forman published sereral books on the philosopher's stone, ma-
gic, astrology, natural history, and natural philosophy ; two treatises on tbe
plague, and some religious tracts. The British Musenm poeseis^ some of
bis MSS. on astrology.
* Holinshed records a diabolical deed committed at this place 'm Bishop
Jisher's time by a cook* who, by throwing some poison into • veisel of yeast,
not only destroyed seventeen persons belonging to the family, but likewise
tome poor people who were fed at the gate ; for which crime he is said to
have been boiled to death inSmithfield, parsasiit to a Uw suide for that par-
pose, Holinshfld'sChioD. AD«153t.
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avRRsr! 8t
Arettisbop Brtdwardin died in 1343, and Shepey^ Bishop of
Rochesler, and Lord Treasurer of England, in 1360. In th6
reign of He&ry VIII. it came into the hands of the Crown^ hy
whom it was granted ta the Bishop of Carlisle and his sacces*
tors^ when it assumed the name of Carlisle Houie, though it
^ioea not appear to have been ever inhabited by those prelates,
lu 1647, it was sold by the Parliament to Matthew Handy fot
220t. It was afterwards a pottery, next a tavern, and a com-
mon brothel, and since inhabited by a celebrated dancing-mastei^,
named Froment, who endeavoured, but in vain, to obtain a licence
for opening it as a place of public amusement The site is now
occupied by an academy, and the premises are still surrounded by
some of the ancient walls.
There are two meeting-houses in Lambeth of the Protestant
Dissenters, two of the Independents, and three of the Methodists.
One of the latter has recently been built, upon a very large
scale, and has an inscription in front, by which it assumes the
&ame of Lambeth Chapel. Besides these, there are two meet-
ing-houses in which divine service is performed in the Welsh lan-
guage.
At liie beginning of the last century there was a place of pub«
lie entertainment in this parish called Lambeth Welli, on thb
spot now known by the appellation of Lambeth Walk. This
avowed purpose of opening it was on account of a mineral water^
which was sold there. This place having become a nuisance,
the proprietor was refused a licence, and the premises were let to
a Methodist preacher. Another place of public amusement was
opened about the middle of last century at Cuper^t Gardens,
which, in 1636, were the garden of Thomas Howard, Earl of
Arundel^ and received their name from Cuper, the Earl's gar-
dener, by whom they were afterwards rented. The entertainments
consisted of fire-works, illuminations, and music, which, however,
were suppressed in 1763 ; but the house was kept open for some
.time as a Uvem. In these gardens were fonnerly some nntf btted
statues, the refuse of the collection brought by the arl of Anm^-
64 del
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88. suRAEr.,
del from Italy;* most of them were removed in 1717. bj. twj^
gentlemen who had parchased them, and those which remained
were covered with rubbish : but being dug np by Mr. Theobald^
a subsequent proprietor of the premises, they were given by him
to Uie Earl of Burlington, who took them to Chiswick f. The
site of these gardens is now occupied by the extensive vin^;aF-
works of Messrs. Beanfoy.
About 1768, a riding-school for the exhibition of/eats.of horae-
manship was established near the foot of Westminster Bridge, by
Mr. Philip Astley. It was at first an open area, which, in 1780,
was converted into a covered amphitheatre, and divided into pit^
boxes, and gallery. At this place, known by the name oiAstley^s
Amphitheatre, short interUdes are performed between the (eat^
of horsemaqship, and tumbling and rope-dancing are exhibited.
It has been twice destroyed by fire; in August 1794, and in
September 1803, when the mother of Mrs. Astley, junior, perished
in the flames, and some of the adjoining houses were consumed.
The amphitheatre was rebuilt in a few months, and again opened
in April following.
It would be impossible to enumerate here all the manufactories
with wh)ch Lambeth abounds. One of the. most conspicuona
is that for patent shot, situated in Narrow Wall, on the bank ^
the Thames, between Blackfriars and Westminster Bridges, and
established about the year 1789, by Messrs. Watts, The prin-
ciple of making this shot is to let it fall from a great height, that
it may cool and harden in its passage through the air to such a
degree, as not to lose its spherical shape by the pressure of the
water in which it is received below. The height of the tower at
this manufactory is 140 feet, and the shot &lls 123.
Not far distant are Messrs. Beaufoy's works for making wines
and vinegar, " where," says Mr. Pennant, " the foreign wines are
most admirably mimicked. Such is the prodigality and the
luxury
^ Engravings of these fragments art ^ven io th« last ▼olame of Aobr«jH
t History of Lwnbeth, p. 80, 81 •
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Im^iiy-of d^e,age^; that the demand for vboidj bqtU esceedsin %
great degree the produce of the Dative vineyardB. It has heen-
estimated that ^five-sixths of the white wines consumed in our.
capital have been the prodace of our home wine-presses. ^ Th^
genial banks of the Thames opposite to. our own capital yield aK
most every species of white wine; and by a wondrous magic;
llfessn. Beanfoy pour forth the materials for the rich Frontiniae
to the more elq^ant tables ; the Madeira^ the Ci^lcavella, and the
Usbon, into every part of the kingdom/'-—'' There is a mag-
nificence of business/' remarks the same author, '' in this ocean-
of sweets and sours, that cannot fail to excite the greatest ad-;
miration, whether we consider the number of vessels or their
mie" H^ mentions one full of sweet wine, containing 58,109,
gallons, and anoUier for vinegar, holding 56,799 gallons, the lat-^
ter of which exceeds the capacity of the famous tun of Heidelberg
by 40 barrels. These works are about to be removed, in conse-
quence of the erection of a new bridge at this plape.
. Coade and Sealy's manufactory of artificial stone at the comer
of Narrow Wall, near the foot of Westminster Bridge, is well wor*
thy of notice. It was established in 1769. The repository con-
sists of several very large rooms filled with every ornament
which can be employed in architecture. The coippositioa is oast
in moulds, and bunted; and, where it has been placed in exposed
situations, is found to resist, the frost extremely well.
' . Close to the landing-place, known by the name of Cuper's Bridge^
near Messrs. Beaofoy's vinegar works, was laid in October 11,
181 1, the first stone of the intended StrandBridge.. This struc-
ture will consist of nine arches, each of 120 feet span, and when
completed will be the largest on the Thames.
. Lambeth contains sevemi most useful charitable institutions.
7^e Asylum was established in 1758, at the suggestion of that
active magistrate Sir John Fielding, for the maintenance and edu-
fation of orphan female children, whose settlement cannot be i^r
certained* These girls^ who at the time of their admission must
not
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not be under nmt, nor afcoTe tir^e yean old, ueeaplojei tit
needle^work and domestic officea, by wliicfa meana they sre qnaK^
fled for bonaehoM aerranta, and bound iqiprentieea an aneb, at Ae
nge of fifteen or aooner. Two bradied giiia are maintained and
edacated in this exoeUent ebarity, in wbieb Dr. BelFa ayaten «f
instmetion baa recently been adopted.
Bridge^ waa inatituted in the year 17^, tbrongb the exertions
of Dr. John Leake, who gave the ground upon which the boikBng
waa erected. It waa intended principally fcr the wivea of poet
mdoatriooa tradeamen and hoaae-keepera, incapable of bearing^
the expenaea incident to pregnancy, and alao for the wivea of in^
digentaoldiera and aailora ; but the govemora in the spirit of ge»
nuine philanthropy have extended the b^iefita of the inatitetios
to nnmarried females, reatricting this indulgence, however, t#
the first ioatance of miacondnct Such poor women aa prefer re*
maining with their iuniliea, are delivered at their own ludiitations,
and recdve from this charity aH the neceaaary medicines and as-
aiatance. The number of patients annnalfy admitled is betweeil
Ibnr and five hundred ; and about 980 ovt-patieBta are yeariy re*
Keved.
The Kefngtfbr tkeDeHUute, an institution calculated to res»
der moat important service to the community, waa eataUished at
Cuper'a Bridge, in 1806, lor the pnrpoae of providing an wsy^
km for persons discharged from prison, or from the hulks, for
unfortunate and deaerted females, and others wha, from leas of
character, or extreme indigence, cannot procure an honeat main*-
lenance, though wiBing to work. In the first three years after
ita eatablishment, out of neariy 600 applicants, 900 were ad*
mitted, and 100 relieved out of the house, in which are now
seventy peiaons employed in various occnpaliona. Of timae who
have left the house, aome have been restored to tbeb friends,
and others placed in aituationa, and endded to gain an boneal
EveBhood.
In 16SS^ Sir Nod do Canm, ambassador from the United Pko.
7 vinoea.
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tTnces, who rented fai this parish, snd is buried in Ltnihelh ehnrch,
bail! and endowed seven alms'lioases for poor Women near Vanx-
ban tomptke. The present income is 381. per annum, exdusive
of a legacy of llOOI. be^neathed to them in 1770, by the dowager
Lady Gower.
Major lUcfaard lAwrence, in 1661, founded and endowed a
atibool for twenty boys, which has been incorporated with an«
other in the Back Lane, established in 1731, and supported by
voluntary contribotions. In 1866, the school-house was rebuilt
on a larg^e scale, and adapted to the reception of 900 boys, who
are instructed on the phm recommended by Dr. Bell. In 1704,
Archbishop Tenison founded a school in the High Street for
twelve girb; but from the increased value of the endowment, it is
now adequate to the clothing and education of thirty children
In another school for girls, established by subscription, in the High
Street, in 1787, forty-two cfaildren^are clothed and instructed.
TBomas Banks, R. A. the late eminent sculptor, was a native
of this parish. In the productions of his chisel, which adorn St
FauPs cathedral, Westminster Abbey, the Bank, and other public
buildings, as welt as in those belonging to private individuals, he
bas left distinguished proo& of his genius. He died Feb. 5,1805,
aged 67.
' VauxhaB, properly Fauheshali, anciently formed part of the
possessions of the Rivers, Eails of Devon, and was given by
Edward the Black Prince, to the See of Canterbury, to which it
still btielongik. Here was a large mansion, called Copt-Hait,
Irhich in Norden^ Survey, made in 1615, is described as being
opposite to a capital messuage known by the name of Fauxe^
kail. The latter is supposed to have been the manor-house^
and to have been pulled down, or to have fatten to decay soon
afterwards, as its name was transferred to the former. Lysons
observes, that there does not appear to be the least ground for
ihe tradition that this place was the residence of the notorious
tiny Faukes, who, being a man of desperate fortune, was not
likely to have a i^Atled haUtatioaj n^ueh kM to be the owner
of
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of a capital vannoB. It ia^ kowerer, adnittedi tliat the con^iii*
tors with whom he waa co^eernedM hiadeleatahleplot^held their
meetings in a prirate houae here, which waa hnned down hy ae*
cident, in 1635*. In the time of Chailea 1. Vaaxhall waa th«
property of the Crown, of which it waa held under a leaao, in 1 675,^
by that mechanical genina SirSamneJ Norland, who conaideiahly
improved the premises f- The site of this mansion ia now a disn
tillery.
That well known place of public amnaement VanushaU Gwr*
dens belonged, in 1615, to Jfane, widow of John Vanx, between
whose two danghtera the estate waa divided, and paased throogh
various handa, till both rooietiea were parchaaed about the middle
of last century, by Jonathan Tyers, Esq. At wliat time thia
place was first opened for public resort we are not informed; but
from papers in the Spectaior |, and Cmmoisseur §, it must have
been in or before Queen Anne's time. Mr. Tyere, who held the
premises on lease many yeara before he bought the eatate, opened
the Spring Gfardens, as they were then denomiuated in 1790, and,
expended large aums in their embellishment. After his death
they passed into the hands of several proprietors, the principal of
whom is Mr. Barrett These gardens were, till of late years,
opened every evening during great part of the snmm^, for the
reception of company i but they are now admitted only three timea
a week. The entertainments consist of music, vocal and inatmniett>
tal, illuminations, and fire- works; and refreshments of every kind
may be procured.
When liondon and its suburbs wete fortified by order of Parlia*
ment^
♦ Lysmn' EnTiroas, T. tt39, 3.
f Ever J part of Sir Samuel*!. Ikimc displayed the inTenCion of the owner..
The lide-boanl in the diataf-foom waa rapplied with a large fiBuntain, and tfact
glaites itood onder little itreaaM of water. His coach had a noveabie kitdMa
with clock-work oachinery, with which he could make soop, broil ateaki, or
roast a joibt of iucat, and when he travelled he was his own cook« (North's
Life of Lord Keeper Guildford. p^99i.)
t8«eNo.3aS. $No.€S. -'
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•VllBftf/ d3
menu; daring the cnril' mur under Charles 1 a fort was erected
■enr Vmaxhall tnmpike. In s plan of the city, an engrafing of
vhich is given in Maitland's History, it is called a *' qnadrant-*
fort with four half hulwarks.'^
/ On the road to Wandsworth, not hat from the tumpike, is a spring
•f Tery clear water, called Vauxkall Well, which, it is said, ne^
ier freezes.
At this place one of the new hridges, lately projected for the
•oavenience of the increasing popnlation of the metropolis, to
he. called the Regents Bridge, is designed to cross the Thames
from Millbank on the opposite side of the riter.
The manor ofKemin^ton was in eleren Edward III. vested in
the.Crown^ and afterwards made part of Uie Bucliy of Cornwall, to'
which it still remakis annexed. The manor contains ahout 900
acres. Lands within it descend to the yonngest son, and, in de-«
iudt of male issue, are equally divided among the daughters.
At this pkoe was a palace, oceasionally inhabited by the Royal
frunily so late as the r^gn of Henry VII. Camden says, that in his
time no traces of this building were left ; whence it seems pro-
bable, that after it ceased to be the residence of royalty it was
taken down, and the manor-house erected on its site. This
house is described in Sir Charles Harbord's Survey of the Manor,
taken in 1636, as " an old low timber building, situate upon part
•f the foundation of the ancient mansion of the Black Prince,
and otiier Dukes of Cornwall after him, which was a long time
since utterly ruined, and nothing thereof remaining but the sta-
ble^ IbO feet long, built of flint and stone, and now used as a
bam.'' In 1709, the bam here mentioned was one of the re*
ceptacles of the distressed Protestants from the Palatinate. In
1786, in digging near this bara for a cellar, some spacious vaults'
of stone were discovered, the arches of which were cemented by a
substance harder than stone itself. The Prince's Road is said
to have been that by which the Black Prince came to this
palace from Lambeth, and a public-house in this road still bears
the sign of that i^enowiied son of Edward IIL In 1616, Sir
t Noel,
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94 •vmECT.
Nod Cwon had a lease of tke naiior» otfniiitiiif af 122 \
the manor-hoose etceftoi, for 21 yeata ; and it fau aisee 1
^t to difoent penona: the preaeatleeeee is Sk William Claytaa,
Bart.
KenniogtoB gava the titto of Earl to the Duke of Camheriaad,
aon of Geofga II. BeUfte the eteetioii of the new gaal ia Hano*
monger Lane^ Sonthwark, Kennington Common waa tiie asoil
place of execation for erimiaala tried in thk part of the ooanty.
The hamlet of SiodeuM eontaina abont 100 hoaaoB, exclaaifa-
\y of thoie ahoat Brixton Caoaeway, which are not eonaiderad a
part of it The manor anoiently belonged to the Rivers, Eada
of Devon, hat ia 1 iamea L was veated in the Crown. It afi^*
warda helonged to Sir George Chnte, and was sold by the exe*
aulors of one of his descendants, ahont the end of tho 17th eaa*
tory, to Sir John Tfaomeycroft, in whoae fiuaity it eontinned till
1804, when it was purchased by William I^nhert^ Esq. the pceaeBft
proprietor. The maaor-honse, which stood wtikin a motft, has
been completely dennilished, and on ita site a handsome villa baa
been erected by Bryant Bsrrett, Esq.
At Stockwell was erected, in 1767, aneatdmpdof eaae^towmds
which Archbishop Seeker contributed 6001.
An extraordinary imposition was here practiaed in 1772, at
the honse of Mrs. Golding, which was reported to be hanntad.
Numbers of people of all ranks went to witness the feats of tho
imaginary ghost, who caoaed the tenitnre to dance abont the
rooms in a surprising manner. A pamphlet paUished on the
aubject, and entitled '' The StochwOi Gkort/* dedbrea, that whan
Mr. Gardner, a surgeon of Clapham, cunt to bleed Mra. Gofdiag,
who had fidated from fright, he desired that the blood might be
kept for his inspeotion ; hut no sooner was it congealed, than it
sprang out of the bason, which presently after broke to pieces of
itself. A still more mortifyiag ciroamslanee was, that whea
aome neighbours of Mrs. Golding*s were asked by her to drink a
^asa of wine, the bottles flew in pieces before they could be aa*
corked. The imposture was never completely dUseovemd ; bat
in
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h 1TJK>^ Mn. GoMii^ and her duigliter being both dead, tha
dyeing fttwiof* W9M sold by auction^ aad fetched tery oUrava^
l^t prices,
John Angell, Esq. who died in 1784, left by will GOOOL fer tha
pwpase cf buildiag a college at Stockwell, for seven decsyed
genHemeo^iwo clefgyneii, ao orgaust, six smgtng mea, twelrft
choristen, a Terger, chapel clerk, and three domestic servaata^
which he endowed with ront-chaigea to the amonnt of 8001.
per aanaai, besides asnluug a proTisioa for the subsistence of the
ttembers. ilver since the death of the testsAor tbere has been a
suit in chancery respecting his will, and his intentions have of
coarse never been earned into effiaet
At S<mA Lambetk, situated between Stockwell and Vaaxhall,
was the residence of Sir Noel Carqn. The Magna BrUatmia^
. aays that it was bniit in the figure of half a Ronian H, and palled
4own in 1687 *. A small part of it» however, remained, and waa
dccnpied as sn academy, nnder the name Caron House, till demo-
l^hed in 1809.
There are now no traces of the physic garden of the Trades*
cants, which was situated near this spot, and was one of the first
establishments of the kind in the kingdom. The elder Tradescant
had been gardener to the Dnke of Buckingham and other noUe-
men, and was afterwards in the service of Charles I. He tra*
veUed over great part of Europe and Africa, in search of new
plants, and many of those introduced by him were long called
by his name. A catal<^e of all that were cultivated by hna at
South lAmbeth, together with an account of his collection of cu-
riosities, was published, in 1656, by his son under the title of
Jllm9eum Tradt§camHaimm, in a small volume, to which are pny
fixed portraits both of the father and son. The latter bequeathed
the whole collection, and also his house at South Lambeth, to the
learned Elias Ashmole, by whom, as it is well known, the former
was gi?en to the VDiversity at Oxford, where it occupies the prin^
cipal part of the Mo^feum, which goes by his nam^, aad was origi-
nally built for its reception.
South
•Mag. Brit V. 549.
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96^ sumusV.^
^ 8o«ih Lambeth iraa the residence of Dr. Daearel, antiior of tlie
'' History of Lambeth Palace/' '* The Histofy of Croydon/* aad
other topographical and antiquarian works, who died at hia house <
there in 1785.
The other parishes in this hundred are: Bames, BatUnea/
Camberwell, Clapham, Mertom, Mortlake, Putney, Streaih&m,
Tooting, Wandiworth, and Wimbledon,
Battersba gives the title of baron to the family of 81. John.
The church contains sereral monuments for that Immily, espe«-
cially one by Roubiliac for the celebrated atateaman Henry St.
John Viscount BoUngbroke, and his second wile, a niece of Ma-
dame de Maitttenon. This monument of grey and black marble*
is placed against the north wall. On a black maible tablet is an
inscription of considerable length, which chsMraeterizea him as'
«f the enemy of no national party, the friend of no fiietion,'' ar
** distinguished by zeal to maintain tte libeity, and to restore! the
ancient prosperity, of Great Britain/' On each side of the in-'
seription are medallions with profiles in basso relievo of Lord and
Lady Bolingbroke.
Against the south wall is a monument lor Sir Edward Wyliter,'
who died in 1685, with a basso relievo, representing him in the
act of performing two extraordinary exploits. It is related, that
during his long residence in India, being once attacked unarmed
in the woods by a tiger, he placed himaelf on the side of a
pond, and when the furious animal sprung at him, he canght
him in his arms, fell back with him into the water, got upon
him, and kept him down till he was drowned. This adventure;
as well as the other achievement, perhaps still more wonderful,
is commemorated in the following lines; which fiHrm part of the
epitaph :
Alone, onarm'd, a tjger he opprefs'd.
And crushed to death the monkter or a beast.
Twice twenty mounted Moon he overthrew
• Singly on foot, some wounded, some be slew,
Pispers'd the rest — what aiore conld Saosoa do^ • . '
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At the ewt end of the church iar a neat taUet, with an inscrip-
tien to the memory of Thomaa Astle^ who died December 1, 1802,
aged 8ixty«-eight years. He was long a distinguished member of
the Society of Antiquaries^ Keeper of the Records in the Tower>
and one of the Trustees of the British Museum. As an author
bis principal publication was a Treatise On the Origin and Pro^
gress of Writing. He left a valuable collection of manuscripts,
BOW deposited at Stow, the seat of his noble patron the Marquia
of Buckingham, to whom he gave by his will the option of pur-
chasing them at a fixed sum.
Here also are interred, Arthur Collins^ Esq. well known for his
Historical Account of the Peers and Baronets of England, and
other publications, who died in 1760, aged seventy ^six ; William
Curtis, an eminent botanist, author of the Flora Londinensis,
&c. who died in 1799, aged fifty-six ; and the Rev. Joseph Gard-
ner, late vicar of Battersea, who was distinguished for bis attach-
ment to the Arts. He was a constant exhibiter at the Royal
Academy, published Views on the Rhine, &c. in 1788, and con-
tributed the views for Williams's History ofMonmoutltshire. He
died at the age of seventy-nine, and was buried, January 6, 1808.
Bolinghroke House, the seat of the St John family, was a
spacious edifice, which is said to have contained fifty rooms on
a floor. Some years after the alienation of the estate, about 1775,
the greater part of the house was taken down. Among the
lew rooms which yet remain, is one wainscotted with cedar, re-
ported to have been the favourite apartment of the celebrated
Lord Bolinghroke. The pictures in the old house were sold by
auction and dispersed. On the site of this mansion was, in 1788,
erected a horizontal air-mill, of very large dimensions, on the
same construction as Hooper's mill at Margate *. The height
of the main shaft is 120 feet; the diameter at the bottom fifty-
two, and at the top forty-five feet. This structure, originally de-
signed for an oil-mill, is now employed for the purpose of grind-
ing malt for the adjoining distillery of Messrs. Hodgson and Co.
Vou XIV. H by
• See Beauties, Vol. VIII. 964.
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98 ftURRBY.
6]r whom exienuTebiiHoGk^hoiiBeB, capable rf aficomiaodating.COtf
head of cattle have been erected on the site of the garden and
terrace.
Sherwood Lodge, on the banks of the Thames, is the lesH
dence of Jens Wolf, Esq. late Danish consal, who has reoeatlj
added to it a large gallery^ in the most correct style of Dwic ar-
chitecture, seventy-six feet by twenty*five, and thirty in height,
for the reception of his valuable collection of plaster-casts from
celebrated antique statues : among the most remarkable of which,
are those of the Fighting Gladiator; the Niobe; the Baibariu
Faun, of which no other has been broight to England; the Dying
Gladiator, and the Famese Hercules*.
Here is a wooden bridge over the Thames, bailt in 1771, under
the direction of Mr. Holland, at the expense of fifteen proprietors.
who subscribed 15001. eaclu
Battersea was the birth-phiGe of Henry St. Josn Viscovnt
BoLiNGBROKJS, ouo of the most eminent statesmen and philo-
sophers of the eighteenth century, the prominent events of whose
life are well known to the readers of English history, and of whosa
so striking a portrait has been drawn by one oC the ablest of his
contemporaries f. Here too he breathed his last» Deeenbei \2,
1751, aged 73.
At Camb£RWELL, on the summit of Grove HiU, to which
there is a gradual ascent from the village, of nearly a mile by a
lofty avenue of trees, is the residence of John Coakley Lettsom,
M. D. a gentleman equally distinguished for benevolence of dis-
position and liberality of sentiments. It is a plain stmctme,
with low wings, and the front is adorned with emUematacal
figures, in artificial stone, representing Liberality and Plenty
with Flora in the centre. The library contains a choice adlec--
tion of about 6000 volumes, and a valuable cabinet of shells^
insects, minerals, and various subjects of natural history. The
gardens belonging to this mansion are enriched with a oopions
Golleo-^
* Ljaons' EnTirons, I. 99.
t TIm; celebrated Lord Chesterfield in bis Letters to bit fSon.
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^fieetion of exotics; and tiie groandir laiJ out wHh singular
elegance and taste. Among the most striking of th^r embel«
lisbments is a cirealar temple or observatory, which connnands
a magnificent view of the metropolis and its vicinity, and contains
the mechanical instraments of the late Mr. Ferguson, and the
Morions mod^ in cork by Ihibonrg. A fonntain and a cottage
on. the border of a spacious reservoir, exhibit a scene at once
truly beautiful and picturesque. The cottage is supported by
the trunks of eighteen oak treesj ^twined with climbiDg ever-
greens, forming a kind of colonnade. Facing it is a statue of
Venus rising from the water, by Localelli ; and over the door a
representation in alto relievo of the history of Acis and Galatea,
In statoary marble^ The fountain is supplied by pipes from an
ample spring issuing from the summit of the bill, and collected
in a sheet of water or canal ; and rising through thi centre of
an elegant composition in Portland stone forms the jet tPeau,
Fh>m the spring which supplies the canal, the village of Cam-
berwell derives its name; and the phce where it rises tradition
has marked as the spot where George Barnwell murdered his
uncle; an incident which gave rise to Lillo^s well-<knowft tra^
gedy.
Dulwich is a pleasant hamlet, in the parish of Camherwell^
hoidering upon Kent. The manor was purchased in 1606, by
Edward Alleyne, Esq. *. This gentleman, some years after-
H 2 wards,
* Edward AlJejne was bora in Lon^oir, in 1566. Fuller says that he ^as
Ved a player ; and it is certain that he v^ent upon the stage at an earTy pe.
riod oi life, and acquired great celebrity in his profession. Baler speaking
•f him and I^urbage, declares, that they were two such actors as no age ntifll
arer look to see the Jile/' Hey wood also characterises him as
Protens for shapes, and Roscius for a tongue.
Alleyne waasole proprietor of the Fortune playhouse in White Cross Street,
which be built at his own expense, and ^a> partner with Philip HcnsUiw
(whose wife*s daughter he married,) in a Bear Garden atBankside, long be*
Ave they purchased the office of master of the king's bears. The time and oc-
•asien of bis retiring from the stage are aTika anknown. Kespectiogthe latter an
arb8ur<lt
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too SOllllEY.
wards, began to erect oa this estate a «oiiiiiiodioiis Imil^i^
for a college, or hospital, from a design by Inigo Jones, and
baTing witb some difficulty obtained the king's letters patent for
settling lands upon it, he executed a deed of tnist, by which he
conveyed the manor of Dol wich and other estates to the use of the
college for erer. The chfl^el was finished in 1616, and the
building being completed, and the members of the college ap-
pointed, the solemnity of Uie foundation took place September
13, 1619. This institution, to which Alleyne gave the name of
€tod*s Gift College, was fovuded for a master, warden, fonr M«
lows, six poor brethren, and six sisters, all of whom must be nn-
married, twelve scholars, and thirty ont-membera. The endow-
ment consisted of the manor of Dulwich, and lands and tenements
there, also in Lambeth parish, and in the parish of St. Botolph,
Bishopsgate, and the Fortune theatre, then producing a revenue
of about 8001. per annum. The annual rents of these estates, in
1806, amounted to 37841.
According to the statutes the master and warden most be of the
blood and surname of the founder, and for want of such, of his
name only. On the death of the master, the warden succeeds,
and a new warden duly qualified must be chosen by lot. The
fellows are chosen in the same manner; the senior performs di-
vine
sbfurd itory it very gnwtly related hjAohrej, and other topographical writen,
who lay, that while penonatug the Devil, his Satanic Majesty, indignant at
this profanation, appeared himself upon the stage, and terrified Alleyne to such
a degree, that he immediately relinquished the profession, and made a vow to
appropriate hit fortune to charitable purposes, which he accomplished in the
erection of Dulwich College. This tale seems to have been fabricated after
Alleyne's time, for Baker, liis contemporary, who was too fond of enliven-
ing his history to let such a circumstance pass unnoticed, says nothing of it
Having formed the plan of his foundation, he retired to the manor-house on
Dulwich Common, now called Hall Place. Here he superintended the erec-
tion of his college, and spent the remainder of his days in the management of
Its affairs ', not as master, as it has been asserted ; for he appointed his kins-
men Thomas and'Matthlas Alleyne to be the first master and warden, fie
died in November lit6| aged eo*
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Woe service in the chapel; two others oflGiciate as echoolmaster
and usher, and the foarth» who is a layman, as organist. The
poor brethren and sisters most be sixty years of age at their ad*
missioo : a clause in the statute excludes p^sons infected with a
noisome disease, or decrepit in their limbs ; and if they marry^
commit fornication, or adultery, they are to be expelled. These
poor brethren and sisters are to be selected as Tacancies occur
from the thirty out-members, who must be of the parishes of
St. Saviour Sonthwark, St Botolph Bishopsgate, and St Giles's
Cripplegate, ten out of each, and for whom alms-honses were
bnilt by the founder in their respective parishes. The twelve
poor scholars must be from six to eight years of age at their ad«t
nussion, and be educated till they are eighteen ; when they sre
either to be qiprenticed to some trade, or sent to the University,
where, according to the statutes, there ought always to be four
IHilwich scholars; but notwithstanding the injunctions of Arch-
bishops Wake and Potter on the subject ; the provisions for edn*
eating boys for the University have long been relinquished.
The charchwardens of the three parishes above-mentioned were
constituted assistants in the government of the college, and to
attend the audits; and the Archbishop of Canterbury was appoint-
ed visitor.
Dulwich College consists of a front and two wings, which
form three sides of a quadrangle. In the centre of the front
baUding is a long Latin inscription on black marble, record*
ing the purposes apd date of this foundation. The west end of
the front contains the hall, kitchen, and offices on the ground*
floor, and above are the apartments of the master and warden ;
the east end is occupied by the chapel : which is plain, and un«
ornamented, except by the altar-piece, a copy of Raphael's
Transfiguration by his pupil Julio Romano, presented to the col«
lege in 1796, by Thomas Mills, Esq. of Great Saxham, in Suf-
folk. In the west wing, the apartments of the sisters occupy
the ground-floor, over which is the picture-gallery, 77 feet longj
Mid 15} wide. The contents of this gallery, which were be-
.H3 . qneatbed
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109 SVEKEV.
queathed to tlie college by Mr. William Cattwriglit, a celebrated
comedian and bookseller in London^ have been treated with greai
contempt by Aubrey and ancceeding irriters ; but Lysons, who
enumerates such of the paintings as aie most worthy of notiee,
asserts, that *^ some have much merit, and many are Suable aa
being original portraits of remarkable persons.^* By the will
of Sir Fhmcis Bourgeois, a painter of consideraUe eminence, who
died in January 1811, this collection receiTed OTaloable acces-
sion ; for he bequeathed to it the whole of his pictures, besidea
10,0001. to keep them in due presenration, and 2,0001. for the pvr-
pose of repairing the gallery for their reception.f At the aoaA
end of the gallery is the aadit-room, adomed with a good foil«
length picture of the founder ; and adjoining is a small library;
in which are most of the books bequeathed to the college by
Mr. Cartwright The east wing, which has been rebuilt, was
finished in 1740, at an expense of above 3,000L In the centra
of the wing, on the first floor, is the school-room, and on eadi
side, the chambers of the fellows. Beneath are tiie apartmcttts
i»f the poor brethren, and behind the college ia a garden of eaa«
siderable extent
The chape], though built for the use of the college only, now
oenres as a chapel of ease for this hamlet, where all religiona rites,
excepting marriage, are peribrmed. Under the chancel is a Tault,
in which the founder, his wife, and mother, are interred; and
which, by his direction, is exclusively appropriated as the burial-
place of the masters, wardens, and fellows. For the other mem-
bers of the institution, there is a cemetery situated about a quarter
of a mile from the college, which is abo used for the iBterment
of the inhabitants of the hamlet
In 1808, an Act of Parliament was passed for empowering tho
maatei^
V Environs, L 80.
t Thb was not the whole extent of the benefaction of Sir Francb : be left
legacies of lOool. each to the Prtncip«l and Chaplain of the College ; and
(ranaferred to the Directors of thb institntiiui, as leadoaiy legatees, all^
iseat of bis property of ever j denooinatioo*
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ir» wardeo, and fdiowa, to grant building kases of certain
landfl, and to apply the aurpliif and fines of the premiuma re-
eeiYcd in aid of the aum of d6001. which they had accumulated
aa a hvilding favui, either for the complete repair of the college^
the west wing of which has limg been in a very dilapidated state,
or for rebuilding it on the present site, or any other that may be
^pointed by the visitor for the time being.
JKfiighis Hill, near Dulwicsh. the seaA of the late Lord Thur-
low, was pnrchaaad by bim of the Dnke of St. Alban's. At that
timo there was only a fiurm-house on the estate, which he new*
fronted, building at the same time some additional apartments.
Uis lordship afterwards look down the whole, apd erected the pre-
sent mansion in a plain and simple style, under the direction of
the late Mr. Hollands
ChAVBAU is aituated on the skirts of a common, containing
about 200 acres, which has of late years been so much improved,
^efly by draining and the judicious planting of a considerable
Mmber of figreat^trees, as to have the appearance of a park. It
is sunsomided by villas belonging to some of the most opulent
BMrehants in the city of London, and among others, those of
Samuel, Bobert, and Henry Thornton, Samuel Smith, and John
Dcat^ Esqrs. an4 members of Parliament.
The church at the north-eaat comer of the common is a new
building, having been finished in 1776 at an expense of lO^OOOL
In the south aisle of the old church which was left standing, and
which, with the adjoining cemetery, is exclusively appropriated
to interments, are some aplendid monuments for Sir Richard
Atkins, Bart who died in 1689, and his fomily 9 and Bartho-
lomew Clarke, Dean of the Arches, and lord of the manor, who
died in 1689. Here is also a marble tablet to the memory of
Dr. Martin Lister, F. R. S. and physician to Queen Anne, who
died February 2, 1711^^12. He is well known to tbe learned
world as a naturalist, especially by his book oi| shells, intituled
Synapsis Canchylium, the drawings and engravings for vfhich
were executed by himself and his daughters,
H 4 Meuton
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IM ^umttST.
Meetoiv m rentfktble lor a oonTeafc of
IbuDded in 1115 by Gilbert Nonnao, dMriff ni Somy. Tk€
prior of this oonvent had a leat in Pariiaaent aa a mitrad abbot;
and tbroagh the mnuiiceace of the foaader, and aabaanaont
bene&cton, it enjoyed, at the Diaaolation, a yearly rereano of
9671. 19a. 4id.
It waa at thia place* aeoording to Lambar^ that the treaty of
peace naa concluded in 1217 between the Earl of PeaDbioke,
regent of the kingdom, on the part of Henry III. and Laoia, tiie
Dauphin ; but Mattheir Ptoia, and other whteni, piaee thia
tranaaetioD at a little ialaad in the Thamea near Stainea. When
Hubert de Buigh, aome time Chief Juatiee of Bagiand, being
required, 16 Henry III. to giTo an account of hia eoodoet ami
adminialration, found his ruin reaolyed upon, and . deapaiced of
Tindicatiag himaelf to hia jodgea, moat of whom were hie eae-
miea, he took aanctnlffy in thia booae. The king ordered him to
eome before the court, and aUde'the law ; b»t be refuaed lo quit
hia aaylum. Henry being highly incenaed, aent to the Lsvd
Mayor of London, ordering him to aummoa all the eitiaeas eapa«
Me of bearing anna, and proceed to Herton to take Burgh dead
or aliye. The citizens, with whom he waa Tory ui^pnlar, haaa
tened towards Mertoo, in number about 20,000, and the Chief
Justice flying to the high altar, waited the event In the mean
time the king, through the interceaaion of the Earl of Cheater
and Bishop of Clncheater, waa induced to altor hia purpoae ; the
citizena were recalled, and Burgh reamined in hia retreat till the
Archbiahop of Dublin procured hia enlargement.
In 20 Henr> III. 1235-6, a Parliament waa held at this place,
when those statutes were enacted which are atill known by the
name of the Statulea of Morton. At thia meeting alao it waa
that the barona ao resolutely withatood the insidiona overtaiea
of the prelatea for the introduction of the imperial and canon
laws ; their spirited reply to which will ever be remembered to
thefr honor : Nolumus Lege$ Anglian muiare.
This priory was situated on the bank of the little river Wan--
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tk, nd, in ili ndaitslakev oeoiqpied no leis tloA ai^ acres
«f gromd. How kx the zeal olthe Cmmliiaaioiien was excawiaad
in its demalitMn at the time of its surrender, or what waste may
kave heen coounitted by its soceessive propriotoni, cannot ba
determined. It was pcohahly redaoed to its present state, in
which, however, considerable remains of the ontsr waOs are
standing, by the caution of Parliament in the civil wars under
Charles L when it was jadged of importance enough to be re-
fared to a Committee in 1648, with directions for putting it into
such a condition tbnt no use might be made of it to the endan-
gering of the peace of the kingdom.* In 1680 Merton priory
was adrertised to be lett,t and was described as cenitHiniiig seve-
ral large rooms, and a very fine chapeL Vertae, who visited
this place about 17^, mentions this chapel as being then entire,
and says, that it resembled thei9a]Con buildings.^ At present bo
other vestige of the edifice is left than the east window oi the
ehapd of crumbling stone, which seems, from the style of its
architecture, to have been built in the fifteenth century. § The
site of this religious establishment is now a scene of active in-
dustry, being occupied by three manufactories for printing cali-
coes, and a copper*mill, which afford employment to a great
number of hands.
The parochial church, dedicated to 8t Mary, has the appear-
ance of great antiquity. Rrom a manuscript in the Herald's
College, it appears to have been buiH by Gilbert Norman, who,
after the grant of the manor by King Henry I. for the purpose,
erected a church here, and is said to have adorned it with pic-
tures and images. Lysons observes, that from the style of the
architecture of the present church, there is little doubt of its
being the original structure, and having undergone little altera-
tion.
In
* Jounait of the Boom of Gonnoni, V. 6eS.
t Domoftic IolelUg«iicer, March A, 1680.
- t Vertpe't MSS. an the collection of the Earl of Orford at Stiawbeiryhill.
f An engrsTing of it it given in Malcolm's Viewi for illoatrating LyMmt*
^vifonit
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109 WMMMX*
h the wittfew ef tke oiMMel am iMM f—nitii of
gbis; and agauwt the nerUiweU el the chenh henge a l«i||^
pietare ef ChrisI beariag hie eroee. Thoof^ now nuOi demeged»
it eppeeie to have beea a good paiatilig, aed eitlMr the weik of
lAca Jordiao^ or a oopjr ftem that meeter.
JIUrtm Piece, a modem neoiiOR in thb perieh» wae the
(aT<mte reeideace of the late Lord Neleon, who left it» widi
■oventy ecree of the gromidB, to Lady HaouHon. It ie now hy
pvebeee the property of Aaher GoMemid, Esq.
WALTsa ]>B Hbeton wee a aatiTe of thu parieh» ejid edocaled
ia the coDTeat here: he mm eppoialed Keeper of the Great Seel
ia 1268 ; end 1261 Lord GheaoeUor of Eaglead^ whieh effiee he
held above thiee yeaie^ From a re^^ to the pieee in whidi he
had leceiTed hie birth, aad the hoaae where he had imbibed
Ibe firet mdioieBte of inetmelioa, he ooneeiyed a deiiga of ea«
dewing it with considerable reveanee for the perpetoal eappwt ef
scholastio divmeei With thie view he obtained of the Earl of
Gloacester, ee Iprd of the fee, hie liicenee, dated 7th of Maf ,
1362, to give and aesign the neighboruig manor of MaMon $» the
priory of Mertoa, or any other religione estabKahment for Aai
parpose. Upon farther conaideratioB, however, he fooaded, ia
1264, a eeparate college at Haldon, intended ae a aemiaery
te the larger inatittttion at Oxford, which ie still known by his
name. Bat, in 1270, both these societies were anited by him into
that at Oxford, which he completed in 1274. In the same year
also having execnted the office of chancellor a third time, he
^as consecrated Bishop of Rochester. He died 27th QcMmt,
1277, and was buried in his own cathedral, under a marble tomb,
which was taken down in 1598 by Sir Henry Saviie, Warden,
nnd tiie Fellows of Herton College, who erected an elegant wh
nament in its stead.* ,
At MoaDON is jtfbnloii Park, the property and residence
of George Ridge, Esq. The hpnse, a handsome quadraagnlar
building, on a rising ground near the chmrch, was originally
erected'
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MtttKT. 107
Mieetod by Joim Ewart, Eiq. The extensiTe pkfttureifinHiiMb
are agroesUy diTenified, aod embellnhed with two fine sheetii of
water.
In thia paridi ia alao Mordcn Hatt, the mansion of Sir Bo*
hert Burnett, and the elegant aeat and gafdena of the late Abra-
ham Goldamidy Eaq. who here termjnated bis life in September
1810.
MoRTLAKB ia the bnrial-plaoe of several persona of consider*
able celebrity. In the church are interred Dr. John Dee, a mian
distingnialied for his pretenaiona to mag^c and aatrology, as well
as by the peraonal friendship of Qoeen Elixabeth, who died at Ma
hona^ here in 1608, aged eighty<^nie; Sir John Barnard, whose
leal to promote the interests of his fellow-citiaens will be remem-
bered aa long as his atatne riiall adorn the Royal Ecchaage,
(oh. 1764) ; and Sir Bro<^ Wataon, who was created a.baionet
in 1803, and died in 1807.
In the chorch-yard is the tomb of John Partridge, the well
known aalrologer and publiaher of an almanack, who was bred a
ahoe<^maker, and beoame awom phyaiciaa to Gharlea II. He waa
a native of East Sheen, and died in 1715. Here ia likewise the
moBdment of John Barber, aUerman of London, who died in
1741> aged aixty-five. He waa tiie son of a barber in the metres
polls, and bred a printer, by which profession, and by the South
Sea Boheme, he aequired an ample fortune. In 1733 he serred
the office of lord mayor. The monument to Butler in Weatmin*
4er Abbey was erected by llr. Barber, on which occasion Pope
is said to have written these severe linea, which he propoaed
should be iasovibed on the vaeant aeroU nnder Shakapeara^a
bust:—
thnt Britain lov'4 om and preMnr'd ny fame^
Foic from a BarbePt or a Bemon't nane.
Daring CromwelFa protectorate aome of hf s city friends, aa
Lord Pack, Lord Tiehbonm, and Sir John Iretoo, had houses at
McNTtlake.
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Mortlake. Fvom this oinumstaaoe probrfily. origfittted the to^^
diUon, that an aocieni maoaioii hiae, now leased to Mist Ayna*
comb, iras the residence of Crooiirell himself. So much is cer-
tain, that dmrittg the last century the honse m ^uesticii ivaa iofaa-
hited by a more amiahle» thongh less eelefarated, man> the bene-
volent Edward Colston, vhe, in his life-time, expended more than
70001. on charitable institntions, and died here in 1721.
In 1619, a manufacture of fine tapestry was established at
Mortlake by Sir Francis Crane. This undertaking was patnK
Qized by the king, who gave 2QIQ0L towards it as an encourage*
meat After tiie death of the original proprietinr, his kotfaer.
Sir Richard Crane, sold the concern to Charies L and during the
civil war the premisea were seized by the Pariiameat as the pro*
p^y of the Crown. In the survey taken on this occanon, the
Tape$ify.Hou8€ is described as containing one roon ejghty-tw»
feet in length, and twenty in breadth, with twelve looms; another
anient half as long, with six looms ; and a third called the limning-
reom. After the Restoration, Charles II. intended to revive the
aanofaflturo,. and seat to Yerrio to sketch the designs ; but his
views were never carried into execution.
JEQ$t Ske0n.i» a hamlet in this pwish, seated on a rising
ground ooasiderably above the level of the river. . Here are seve*
ral handsome villas, the vicinity to Richmond Park, and the
beauty of the surtounding country, rendeiing it a desiralde
Ten^e Grove, formerly called Sheme, or Skeem Chi>9e, was
the residenoe of the celebrated Sir William Temple. Here he
indulged Us taste fer horticnltunl pursuits, after he had rethred
from the fetigue and disgust which he had experienced in hie
different embassies ; and the noble trees that have escaped the
ravages of the axe, together with the beautiful mount and fish-
ponds that ornament the estate, bear testimony, to this day, of
tjlie pains he )»e8towed on the improvement of his fevourite i^i«
deiioe. (t was l^xe too that he received Uie v|sita of the Prince
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ti OMigo at 'Che Kme of the' ftetetution ; and one of llie chtm-
bers facing the large pond/ and lookjog at thai time dowD the
^reoue of fine horieMshesnut trees^ litiU retains the name of King
iraiiam^s bed-room. The original fh>nt of the edifice was in th^
style of HoUand Hotise; it was erected in the year 1611, as ap«
pears from an inscription on oak now taken down ; but the back part^
'^hicfa yet remains, is supposed to have been bnilt by Sir William
Temple, and dnring the time it was oiccikpied by the Palmerston
fiunily was called the neto part. Sir Thomas Barnard purchased
the estate of Lord Palmerston, and rebuilt the principal front at
consideiuble expense With corresponding taste, retaining the cedar
, HocMT of the Ihtle room at the south comer, where Dean Swift,
and other literary friendd of Sir William, occasionally employed
their pens. Sir Thomas Barnard sold ibur acres, including the
little pond at one side of the estate, to Caroline Countess Dow-
ager of Buckinghamshire, and cut down several of the large
'trees, particularly the greater part of those which formed the
•avenue. These alterations considerably depreciated the value
of the premises in the estimation of those who recollected them
in their original state. The consequence has been, that the
house, and remaining portion of the land, have been purchased
by the Rev. William Pearson, late of Parson's Green, for a
young gentlemen's seminary, for which it is admirably adapted;
and no expense has been spared in building school-rooms, making
gravel walks, forming a play-ground^ draining the wet parts, by
giving the springs a proper direction in their descent into the
pond^ planting ornamental fences, and erecting out-buildings to
correspond with the magnificence of the house itself, so that at
no former period was the estate of more value than at the present
moment ; and a tasteful use of the axe has given that park-
like appearance to the grounds, which leaves but little regret ou
the mind of those who formerly witnessed the existence of the
gloomy avenue, l^he present possessor has commenced the erec*
.tfon of an observatory over the roof, which, when fiaished, will
bava
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hK9e a aemi-globnhr dome moveable on ebony rcfflera, ao as to
present iU opening to any point in tbe heaTena.*
Putney was honored by Qaeea Elizabeth with frequent Tiaili
which she paid to a Mr. Lacy, of whom Lysons obsenres, that
he has not been able to find any other particnlara than that ha
was a citizen of London, and of the Clothworkers' Company,
His house, situated near the river, was rebuilt in 1596, and was
thepropertj and residence of the late Mrs. IPAranda. During the
dvil war in the seventeenth eentnry,^ this place became the scene
of some interesting transactions. After Ae battle of Brentiord,
when the royal army marched to Kingston, the Earl of Essex
detemuned to follow it; a bridge of boats was constructed fiir
tbe purpose between Fulham and Putney, and forts were ordered
to be erected on each side of the river. In 1647 Cromwdl,
equally jealous of tbe Parliament and the King, who was then aft
Hampton Court, fixed the head-quarters of the army at Pntney,
for the convenience of watching them both. The houses of the
principal inhabitants were occupied by the general officers, who,
during their residence here, held their councils in the churchy
and sat round the communion table; but before they proceeded
to deliberation they ustially heard a sermon from Hugh Peters,
or some other frivourite preacher.
The chief ornament of this church n a small chapel at the
east end of the south aisle, built by Nicholas West» Bishop of
Ely, the roof of which is adorned with rich Gothic tracery, in*'
terspersed with the arms and initials of the founder.
In the church-yard is intenred John Toland, the addmitd
deistical writer, who had lodgings at Putney during the last
years of his life. Here his PaaUheistiam, and most of his later
works, were composed. A few days belbre his death, whidi hap-
penea
' * The ^iew «6ich aoeonpaiilet thii deacriptiMi eihibits the bedc freoC
erected bj Sir VnilUm Templet end ocoemeiited by Sir Thoaes Bwmid
with e Tirmode; which waa deemed more picfttretqae dian tbe prineipti
BMdein froQ^ however accvfateij the ekvetioo inigbi he dehacated*
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•OEUT, 111
f^eA OD the 11th ofMarch, 1722, he vrole as epiteph ton him*
sdf, deicripliTe of the singalarity of his opinions; but it was not
inscribed upon hie tomb.
In 1763, a piece of ground contignons ia the road from Wanda^
worth to Richokond, waa given to the pariah in 1763 by the Rer.
Roger Pettiward, D. D. Ibr the purpose of a cemetery. The moat
remarkable monument here is that of Robert Wood, Esq. who died
in 1771, in his 65th year. It is ornamented with a sarcophagus
of white marble, .and the inscription waa written at the request of
his widow by the late Lord Orford. Mr. Wood waa a natiye of
Ireland $ and in 1751 made the tour of Greece, Egypt, and
Paleatine, in company with Messrs. Dawkins and Bouverie. On
his return he published two splendid works in folio, illustrative of
the Rums qf Palmyra and Balbec, being an account of the
ancient and modem state of those places, with a great number of
engravioga from drawings made on the spot. Mr. Wood was mo-
ditating similar publications relative to other parts of his tour,
when he waa appointed under-secretafy of atate by the late Earl
of Chatham, during the whole of whose administration, as well
as in that of his immediate ancoessor, he continued in oiEce,
Mr. Wood was also the author of an Euay on. the Genius of
Homer; and left behind him several manuscripts relative to hia
travels.
The ferry of Putney was of high antiquity, and is mentioned
in Domesday Book as yielding a toll of twenty shillings a year
to the lord of the manor. In 12 George I. an act of Parliament
was obtained for building a wooden bridge at this place. The
work was undertaken by thirty subscribers at 7401. each, who
purchased the ferry, which produced the owners about 4001. per
annum, for the sum of 80001. The bridge, which is 805 feet in
length, was begun and finished in 1729, at an expense of 23,975L
The income, two years afterwards, was estimated at 1500U a
year, and is now supposed to be about double.
On Putney Heaih, at a little distance from the road, a house
+ was
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Itt iVftREt.
im erected ik 1776 by Darid Hartley, Esq.* fer the pmrpeee of
proving the efficaey of his invention o( plates for the presenra-
tion of bnildings from fire. The experimeots were aeveral times
repeated before their Majesties, the lord mayor and aldermen of
London, and many members of both houses of Parliament, with
complete sncoess ; some of the spectators remaining in perfect
confidence and security in the room over that in which the fire
was burning with great rapidity. This house is sttU standing ;
and near it is an obelisk built by the eity of London in 1776^
with inscriptions commemorating the invention. Near the obe^
lisk was, in 1796, erected one of the telegraphs which form the
communication between London and Portsmouth.
Not fiir fit>m the Fire-house was formerly a fashionable plaed
of resort for public breakfasts and evening assemblies. The man-
sion erected on its site still retains the name of the Bawitng"
Green House, and was for some time in the occupation of that
great statesman, the Right Hon. William Pitt, who here breathed
his last, 23d January, 1806. On the brow of the heath, which
commands a charming prospect over the Thames and the county
of Middlesex, are several handsome seats.
Putney had the honour of being the birth-pkce of Nicholas
Wbst, Bishop of Ely, and Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex,
two eminent statesmen of the sixteenth century, who, though of
humble parentage, raised themselves by their merits and abilities
to the highest dignities. The circumstances attending the rapid
elevation and tragical end of the latter must be well known to
every reader of English history.
Edward Gibbon was bom at Putney in 1737, in the boose
now the property and residence of J. P. Kensington, Esq. and re*
ceived the first rudiments of his eduction at a day-school at this
place. His Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, tiie first
volume of which appeared in 1776, and which was afterwards
extended to six volumes in quarto, has placed him in the first
rank aa an historical writer, and is too well known to need any
9 remark
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«uRser« 119
temark on its merits. From 1774 to 1782, Mr. Gibbon re[fre«
•ented the borough of Liskeard in Parliament, and obtained a seal
at the Board of Trade ; but on the abolition of that board in 1783,
he retired to Switzerland, where he employed himself in com*
pleting his history. When the French revolution began to dis*
tnrb the neighbouring states, Mr. Gibbon returned to England^
and died of a dropsy in January 1794. His posthumous works^
with his Memoirs written by himself, and finished by his friend^
Lord Sheffield, were published by that nobleman in two quarto
volumes.
At the western extremity of Putney Heath is the pleasant
hamlet of. Roehampton, adorned with many elegant mansions.
Raehampton Grove, the residence of William Gosliog, Esq»
stands on part of the site of Putney Park. It is an elegant mo-
dem structure, erected by. Sir Joshua Vanneck, (now Lord Hun-
tingfield,) after a design by James Wyatt, Esq. Sir Joshua, on
his accession to his brother's title and estate, sold Roehampton
Grove to Thomas Fitzherbert, Esq. who also expended consider-
able sums in improvements. At the termination of tbe lawn a
fine piece of water is supplied by pipes from a conduit on Putney
Common*
The beauty of the surrounding country, and the neighbourhood
of Richmond Park, have caused many villas to be erected at
Roehampton. The Earl of Besborough's, an elegant structure,
was built after the designs of Sir William Chambers, and con-
tained a valuable collection of antiques and pictures, which were
sold by auction in 1801. Roehampton House, built about 1710
by Thomas Carey, Esq. and afterwards the residence of the Earl
of Albemarle, is now the property of James Duncan, Esq. The
saloon was painted by Sir James Thornhill, and is still in excel-
lent preservation ; on the ceiling is represented the feast of the
gods. Here are also mansions belonging to the Marchioness of
Downshire, Charles Hatchett, Esq. Mrs. Goldsmid, the widow
of Benjamin Goldsmid, Esq. and John Thomson, Esq. In the
lane leading from Barnes Common to Richmond Park, are also
Vol. XIV. I tho
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114 8DRRCY.
the villas of R. G. Temple, Esq, Sir Thomas Bernard, Bart, %b4
the late Sir Thomas Jones, Bart
Strbatham derives its name from its sitnation near the great
Roman road from Arundel to London, strete signifying in Saxon
a highway, and ham, a dwelling. The manor of Tooting Bee in
this parish, was, in tlie seventeenth century, the property of the
Rowland iamily : but since 1695, when it came by marriage to
the noble house of Rnssel, it has been the property of the Dukes
of Bedford, who bear the title of Baron Rowland of StreathanL
The manor-house, an ancient brick mansion erected by the How*
lands, was a few years since purchased, with some of the adjoin-
ing lands, by the present Earl of Coventry, who pulled it down,
and fitted up a small villa for his residence out of the green-house
and part of the offices.
On the side of the small common between Streatham and
Tooting, is Streatham Park, which belonged to the late Henry
Thrale, Esq. an eminent brewer, and many years representadve
in Parliament for Southwark, now the property of his relict;
Mrs. Piozzi, (a lady well known to the literary world by various
publications,) but in the occupation of Abraham Atkins, Esq. In
the library are the portraits of Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, Lord Sandys,
Lord Westcote, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Dr. Johnson, Edmund
Burke, David Garrick, Arthur Murphy, Oliver Goldsmith, Dr.*
Bumey, Sir Robert Chambers and Baretti, who spent many
social hours together in that room. These were all painted by
Reynolds for Mr. Thrale. Dr. Johnson passed much of his tim«
beneath this hospitable roof, where he experienced that sincere
respect to which his virtues and talents were entitled ; and those
soothing attentions which his ill health and melancholy required.
The kitchen gardens belonging to this villa are remarkably exten-
sive, and inclosed with a wall fourteen feet high. The grounds,
comprehending about 100 acres, are surrounded by a shrubbery
and gravel-walk nearly two miles in circumference.
In the church, upon tablets of white marble, are Latin inscrip-
tions from the pen of Dr. Johnson, to the memory of Mr. Thrale,
nndMrs. Salusbury, mother of Mrs. Piozzi.
The
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SURltET. 116
The chancel containfl the remains of two females, each of whom,
if we may believe the Inscriptions which record their excellence^
mnst have been the phceuix of her age. One of these, Rebecca,
wife of WilKam Lynne, died in 1658. Her husband, after enu*
merating her virtnes in her epitaph, concludes with these lines :
Should I ten thousand yean ei^oj my life,
I could not praife enough so good a wife.
The other, Elizabeth, wife of Major*general Hamilton, died in
1746, after an union of near forty ^seven years, *' and never did
one thing to displease her husband/'
Lysons has recorded some curious particulars respecting a per«
son named Russell, who was buried here April 14, 1772. He
was a native of this place, and had passed for a woman as long as
the memory of any one living at the time of his death could reach,
when the discovery of his real sex occasioned no small surprize in
the neighborhood. From the disguise which he had assumed, his
age could not be ascertained ; but from an examination of the
parish register, Mr. Lysons concludes that it must have been 100
or 104 years, though, by his own statement, it was not less than
108.*
On lime Common in this parish, was, in 1660, discovered a
mineral water of a mild cathartic quality, which is still held in
considerable esteem, and sent in large quantities to some of the
hospitals in London. Though there are no accommodations for
persons who come to drink it on the spot, yet it is much resorted
to by those who cannot afford a more expensive journey.
Wandsworth, so called from its situation ou the banks of the
small river Wandle, which here ialls into the Thames, has for
upwards of a century been distinguished for its manufactures. At
the close of the seventeenth century many French refugees settled
here, and introduced the manufacture of hats, which, though much
diminished in extent, still exists. Here are also manufactories
1 2 fo'
• Environs, 1. 3^—9.
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Ii6 SURRET.
for bolting cloth ; for coacb and livery lace ; for printing calicoes
and kerseymeres ; for whitening and pressing stufis ; for dyeing,-
in particnlar scarlet; iron, oil, and white lead mills, vinegar works
and distilleries. At this place commences the iron rail-way^
which has been carried through Croydon to Merstham, near Rei-
gate, and conveys the maaofactures and produce of the eastern
part of the county to the Thames.
In the chancel of the church is interred Henry Smith, Et^*
a roan remarkable for his extensive charities to this his native
county. On his grave-stone is an inscription in Latin verse,
which refers the reader for an account of him to his monument on
the east wall, where, underneath his effigies kneeling at a desk
in the attitude of devotion, is a tablet inscribed as follows :
" Here lyeth the body of Henry Smith, Esq. sometime citi-
zen and alderman of London, who departed this life the 30th day
of January A^ Dom. 1627, being tben neere the age of 79 yeares,
whome while he lived gave unto these several townes in Surrey
following : — One thousand pounds apeece to buy lands in perpe-
tuity for the relief and setting poore people on worke in the said
towne, viz. to the towne of Croydon, one thousand pounds ; to
to the towne of Kingston, one thousand pounds ; to the towne of
Guildford, one thousand pounds ; to the towne of Darking, one
thousand pounds ; to the towne of Famham, one thousand pounds;
and by his last will and testament did further give and devise to
buy lands for perpetuity and setting the poor a-worke, unto the
towne of Reigate, one thousand pounds; to the towne of Richji
mond one especialtye or debt of a thousand pounds ; and unto th^
towne of Wandsworth, wherein he was bom, the sum of five hun-
dred pounds, for the same use as before ; and did further will and
bequeath one thousand pounds to buy lands for perpetuity, to
redeeme poore captives and prisoners from the Turkish tyranny ;
and not here stinting his charity and bounty, did also give and
bequeath the most part of his estate, being to a great value, for
the purchasing of lands of inheritance for ever for the relfef of
tlie poor and setting them a-worke : a patteme worthy the imita-
t tioa
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SORRET. 117
^en of those 'whome God has hiessed with the abundance of the
goods of this life^ to follow him therein/'
That Mr. Smith was of very hnnible extraction, may be inferred
from his leaving money to his poor kindred, by which he meant
such of his sisters' children as were unable to help themselves :
bnt the story of his having been a beggar, as related by Aubrey,
and copied by subsequent writers, rests upon too va^ue a tradi*
tion to be csititled to credit. Its fallacy, as far as it relates to his
exclusion of Mitcham from the benefits of this charity because he
was whipped out of that parish, is proved by its actual participa*
tion of his bounty. He was once married, but his wife dying
many years before him without issue, he conveyed, in 1620, his
estates, real and personal, to trustees, for charitable purposes,
reserving 5001. a year for his own maintenance. By his last
will, dated April 24, 1627, ho left legacies to the amount of
nearly 1,0001. to various persons, among others, 200! . to the
Goontess of Dwset, and 1001. to Lady Delaware ; 10001. to his
nephew, Henry Jackson, and a like sum to his poor relations ;
10,0001. to buy impropriations for godly preachers; 1501. to found
a fellowship at Cambridge for his own kindred ; besides the be-
qnests mentioned in the inscription on his monument. The
residne of his estates, real and personal, he left to his execu-
tors, to be Plotted to various parishes according to their discre-
tion, for the purpose of setting such poor people to work as
were able ; relieving the impotent with clothes and provisions ;
educating children and binding them apprentices. In this dis«
tribation the native county of the testator has been principally
regarded.*
In diis church are also interred several of the noble family of
Brodrick ; and among them, the two immediate predecessors of
the present Viscount Middleton.
13 Tbe
• A fltatenent of the parishes in this county which partake of Mr. Smith'i
chsrityi with the amount of their reapective allotmenti as paid hi 1807, and
the estates out of which they iuue, may be seen in Lysous' Environs^ I. 986.
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lis 80EEBT.
The bridge orer the Wandle at this pliee wb ereded at the
expense of Queen Elizabeth in 1602, It iraa widened^ and in a
great measore rebuilt in 1757.
On the hills on each side of Wandsworth, distiagnished by the
appellations of East and Wesi Hill, are sereral good hoaaes*
which command fine views over the River Thames^ the metra-
pdlis, and great part of Middlesex. At West Hill, near Lud
Spencer's park, is the handsome villa bnilt by Mr. Gibson o(
Hackney, for the late John Anthony Rucker, Esq. and now tba
property of his nephew, which, from its elevated situation, is a
conspicaons object in the neighbonrhood, and enjoys a delightiiBl
prospect
The hamlet of Garrett, situated between Wandsworth adl
Tooting, is in the former parish, and is noted for having beea
the scene of a mock election which took place there many yeara
upon the meeting of every new parliament^ when seveial well*
known characters in low life appeared as candidates for the by-
rough of Garrett, as it waa called; beiii^ famished with fiiia
clothes and gay equipages for the occasion by the neighboring
publicans, whose interest it was to encourage the frolic This
piece of burlesque, which furnished Foote with the subject of liia
oomedy intitoled the Maywr of Garrett, was performed for tLte
last time after the general election in 1796.
In all the ancient records Wimbledon is described as a grange
or &rm within the manor of Mortlake, which, from the time of
the Conquest, belonged to the see of Canterbury, till Archbisliop
Cranmer exchanged it for other lands with King Henry VI IL
By that monarch it was soon afterwards granted to Thomas Croro-
well, Ei^l of Essex ; and on his attainder it w)Ba settled opon
Queen Catherine Parr for her life. Cardinal Pole obtained a grant
of it from Queen Mary, whose successor first gave it to Sir Chris-
topher Hatton ; and again in her thirty -rsecond year to Sir Thomaa
Cecil, afterwards Earl of Exeter, in exchange for an estate in
Lincolnshire. The Earl left this estate to his third son^ Sir Ed-
HHard^ who was cf eated Viscpunt Wimbledon fpid Baron of Putney.
ImmCi*
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jb'/'.i'ii.'^m^i
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80BRB7. 119.
InuEpediaiely after hia decease in 1638 the manor was sold by bis
cepresentatiTes to the Earl of Holland, and others, as trustees
ior Queen Henrietta Maria. In the inventory of the jewels and
pictHres of Charles I. the mansion at Wimbledon is n^entioned
aQUHig the houses belonging to the Crown. On Ahe sale of the
crowa-lands this manor was purchased by Adam Baynes, Esq.
and soon afterwi^ became the property of General Lambert
This officer, as we are informed by Coke, author of a work inti«
tttled The Detection^ " after he had been discarded by Cromwell.,
betook himself t<f Wimbledon House, where he turned florist, and
bU the finest tulips. a|id giUiflowers that could be got for love or
money; yet in these outward pleasures he nourished theambi«
tion which he entertained before he was cashiered by Cromwell''
lAmbett was not only a cultivator of flowers ; he excelled also in
|«inting them, and specimens of his skill in that art remained for
some years at Wimbledon. . At the Restoration this estate re*
verted to the Queen Dodger, but '' it smelt so strong of a rebel/'
9ays the Magna Britatmia,^ that it was soon sold by her to the
tnistees of George Digby, Eari of Bristol. Of his widow it was
purchased by the Earl of Danby, afterwards created Duke of
I>eds. At his death this estate was sold under a decree in
Chancery in 1717 to Sir Theodore Janssen, who becoming
deeply involved in the South Sea scheme, it was again put up to
aide, and purchased for 16,0001. by the Duchess of Marlborough.
|ier Grace gave it to her grandson, John Spencer, Esq. whose
descendant. Earl Spencer, is the present proprietor.
Wimbledou Himse, rebuilt by Sir Thomas CecU in 1388, is
described as a magnificent structure, '' which being placed on
the side slip of a rising ground renders it to stand of that height,
that betwixt the basis of the brick-fWall of the lower court and the
hall-door there are five severall assents, consisting of threescore
and ten stepps, which are distinguished in a very graceful man*
ner.'^ Fuller says, that by some the house was thought to equal
Nonsuch, if not to exceed it : and S ^ift, in one af his Letters,
14 calls
•V.357.
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195 SVRRBT.
calls it much the finest place about London.* It was taken dxtwm
by the Duchess of Marlborough, who erected a new edifice upon
or near the site, afler a design by the Earl of Pembroke. This
house was accidentally burnt down in 1785. Some of the offices
only being preserved firom the fiames, were fitted up and used for
several years as an occasional residence by the noble proprietor.
A new mansion has since been erected a little to the north-west of
the former building, from the designs of the late Mr. Holland.
The Situation of this structure, which was completed in 1801, is
particularly advantageous, having towards the north a beantifol
home prospect of tbe park, and an extensive view over the county
of Surrey to the south. The park, which contains 1200 acres,
exhibits a pleasing variety of surface, and was planted and laid
out with great taste by Brown. To the north of the house it is
adorned with a sheet of water that covers fifty acres.
In the chnrch is interred Sir Richard Wynne, Bart, who died
in 1649, at the manor-house here, which he held as trustee for
Queen Hennetta Mana. He was gentleman of the privy-cham*
her to Charles I. whom he attended in his romantic journey into
Spain, to visit his intended consort. Sir Richard drew up an
account of his travels, wbich was printed^ among other scarce
tracts, by Hearne.
On the south side of the chancel is a small chapel or aisle,
erected as a burial-place for the family of Lord Wimbledon. In
tlie centre is the monument of that nobleman, an altar-tomb of
black marble, over which a viscount's coronet is suspended by a
chain from the eieling. A long inscription oocopies the four sides
I of the tomb and the ledge which surrounds the apper stone. Lord
Wimbledon followed the profession of arms, and is charaelcriied
by
• A T«rj accurate aud minute surrej of this hoase and premiiea was takea
Lv order of ParliameDt in 1649. tbe original of «bich is depouied in tk«
I Angmeniation Office. 1 1 is printed in the Archslogia, Vol. X. Thoe are
I two rare prints of Wimbiedon Hoosc by Wmstmolej, oneor«bicb. daleA
l(i78, and CKltibiiing a view of the piincipal frani with the fi?e
|»ecA copied lur Ljauu' £awiruin^ Vol. L
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hy Lord Herbert of Cheibury, who aerred with hin in Flandera
«i aD able and aettve general ; bat he lost some reputation by tbo
&ilure of ^e expedition against Cadis^ in which he commanded.
He wrote a short defence of hie conduct on this occasion, which ia
in print, and two short tracts on military afiairs, which remain In
mannscript in the British Mnseum. He died in 1636. : In the
windows of this chapel are coats of anns, indicating the various
•Uianees of Lord Wimbledon's family : and open the walls, and
in small niches, are plaeed several pieces of armoar.
,In the chnrch-yard, among other tombs, is that of John Hop*
kins, Esq. better known by the appellation of Vuiiure Hopkins,
who died in 1732. This celebrated miser accumulated an immense
fortune, which he bequeathed by his will in such a' manner that
it might not be enjoyed till the second generation. This dispo-
sition, however, was set aside by the Court of Chancery, which
decreed that his fortune should go immediately to the heir at
law.
On the side of Wimbledon Common are several handsome villas,
the most conspicuous of which is that belonging to the lady of
the late Sir Stephen Lnshington, Bart, and now occupied by the
Prince of Cond^. To thitf house M. de Caloune, the celebrated
French 6nancier, who purchased it of Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Esq,
«iade considerable additions. The pteasure-gtouiids, which are
spacious and beautiful, adjoin to Lord Spencer's park.
Wimbledon Lodge, an elegant modern structure, was erected
by the late Gerard de Visme, Esq. during the minority of whose
daughter it has been occupied by Earl Bathurst.
Among other villas which skirt the common is that of the late
John Home Tooke, where that well-known political cbaractor
closed his turbulent career March lb, 1812. In his garden he
had prepared a vault for the reception of his remains; but hip
friends thought fit to dispense with his injunctions on this head,
and conveyed them for interment to Ealing in Middlesex.
At the south-west angle of Wimbfedon Common is a chrcular
eAcampm^t with a donbk ditch, including an area of about seven
acrea,
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ime Yisit from the mine pr iocess at tliw pahee. Wlien tiie pat-^'
sessioDB of the see of CaDterirary were seized by the Parliament
during the civil war with Charles I. Croydon palace was firsi
leased to the Earl of Nottingham, and afterwards to Sir William
.Brereton, " a notable man at a thanksgiving dinner/' says a
pamphleteer of the time quoted by Lysons *, " having terrible lo^g
teeth, and a prodigious stomach to turn the archbishop's ehapci
into a kitchen, and to swallow up that palace and lands at a vmT-
sel." After the Restoration this edifice was fitted op, and re-
stored to its former stste by Archbishop Jnxon.
From tiie various conjectures respecting the dates of the evec>
tion of dififerent parts of this palace given by Duc^ f, it may
be eoUected, that the whole was built since the middle ^ the fonr«
teenth century, before which time it appears to have been of
wood. The same writer is of opinion, that the east and west part
•f the great court were some of the earliest buildings that were
eonstructed entirely of brick. The guard-chamber seems to have
been built by Archbishop Arundel, and the hall by Archbishop
Stafford ; but there is nothing to fix the date of the erection of
the chapel, though it appears to have been repaired by Areh*
bishops Laud and Juxon. Large sums of money were expended
on this edifice by some of their successors, particularly by Arch-
bishop Wake, who built the great gallery, and Herring, fay whom
the whole was completely repaired and fitted up. In 1780, this
palace not having been inhabited for more than twenty year^
had beoome mnch out of repair ; in consequence of which an Act
of Parliament was obtained for disposing of the bnikliugs and
grounds, comprising about fourteen acres, and vesting the pro«
dnce in the funds towards erecting a new residence for the arch-
bishops. It was accordingly put up for sale, and purchased by
Sir Abraham Pitches, for 2,5201. The premises are now occupied
as a calico-printing manufoctory and Ueaching-ground. The
diapd is used for the Sunday School, and in the wedL for the
School of Industry.
ni
• SariiQOs L me. t Hirt. ofCrojrdon 43—68.
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tUftUT. IM
Th9 Cknr^ dedicated to St. John Baptist, is a large, hand*
tome structure^ built of stone and flint, having a lofty square
tower adorned wiUi pinnacles, and containing eight hells. It
consists of a nave, with north and south aisles, and three dmn-
eels. The east end of the north aisle is called Heron's ChanceL
The total length is 130 feet, and the breadth 74. From the arms
of Archbishqji Courtney on each side of the north door, and
those of Archbishop Chiohele on each side of the west door, the
rebuilding of it was probably begun by the former, and finished
by the latter, who, at least contributed largely to the work. The
old front at the west end of the. south aisle appear to be of the
same date: it is an octagon, with quatrefoils, having a lion's
head in tl»e centre of one, and roses in two others. Here was for-
merly much painted glass, but during the Usurpation a man was
hired at 2s. 6d. a day to destroy it.
In the middle ehancel, which contains some ancient wooden
stalk, is a handsome monument of black marble, supported by
Corinthian pillars, for Archbishop Grindall, who died in 1583.
He is represented as lying at fiill length in his robes, with a long
black beard, forked and curling, and there is a whiteness in the
pupils of his eyes to denote his blindness.
In the sooth, or as it is sometimes called the Bishops' chan-
cel, is the monument of Archbishop Whitgift, supported by Co-
rinthian columns of black marble ; between which lies his efiigy
in his robes. He died in 1610, aged 73. Against the south
wall of the same chancel is the splendid monument of Arch-
bishc^ Sheldon, who died in 1677. The figure of that prelate in
a recumbent attitude of white marble, is a master-piece of sculp^
ture : the head is particularly admired. The whole was the woik
of an Englishman, Joseph Latham, mason to the city of London,
and was entirely finished by English workmen about the year
1683*. This circumstance, confirmed by a manuscript dis«-
covered by Vertue, deserves to be known, as, from the low state
of the arts in this country at that period, the credit of executing
this
• Fresent Stmteof England, 1685. ISmo. p. tSS.
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19ft SVHftEt.
thiB work has been nnjiistly assigned to foreigners *. to Vua
ehsnoel are also the graye-stones of the Archbishops Wake, who
died in 1731 ; Potter in 1747, and Herring in 1757.
In the north chancel is a large tomb of free*stone, to the me*
mory of Nicholas Heron, Esq. who died in 1668. On it are re«
presented in alto-reliero the figures of himself, his wife, fiye sons,
and eight daughters. Here is also an altar-tomb to the memory
of Ellis Davy, founder of a hospital in tliis town, which bears his
name. He died in 1455.
At the east end of the naye is a monument with a column of
white marble, designed by Glover, the author of Leonidas, to the
memory of Philippa, wife of James Bourdieu, Esq. of Combe, in
this parish, who died in 1780.
In the church-yard is the tomb of Constantine Phipps, the first
Lord Mulgrave, who died in 1775. Here too Alexander Barkley,
or Barclay, author of the satirical poem intituled 7%e Skip of
Pools, was buried June 10, 1552.
In this church were two chantries, dedicated to St. Mary and
St Nicholas. The first was founded by Sir Reginald de Cobham
of Sterborough, who vested the presentation in twelve principal
inhabitants of Croydon. Its income at the Dissolution was
161. Is. 5M. The other was founded by John Stafford, Bishop of
Bath and Wells, who in 1443, was translated to the see of Can-
terbury, and iti revenues amounted to 141. 14s. 6d. per annum.
Whitgif^s Hospital was thus named after its founder Arch-
bishop Whitgift, who began in 1596, to erect this building, which
he finished in 1599, at the expense of 27001. He then endowed
it with lands to the annual value of 1851. for the maintenance of
a warden, schoolmaster, and twenty-eight poor brethren and sis-
ters, or a greater number, not exceeding forty, if the revenues
should admit of it. The founder vested in the see of Canterbury
the nomination of the members, who must be at least sixty yean
old ; but inhabitants of Croydon and Lambeth are to be preferred.
To this hospital belongs a small, but commodious chapel, in
which
* Ducarers Hist, of Croydon. Apptnd. p. 81.
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SDaftST. 127
which is a portrait of the foonder, painted on board ; and adjoin-
ing to it is the school, which forms part of the ai«hhisli^'a
charity, and the honse for the master. The warden's apartments
oyer the hall and inner gate-hoase are handsomely wainscotted
with oak, and were reserved by the founder for his own ase as
long as he lived. It is directed by the statutes, that the rents
of the lands belonging to this institution shall nev^ be raised^
bat the revenues have been considerably increased by the fines
received on the renewal of leases, and by several benefiustions.
An AltM'hause for seven poor people was founded in the
reign of Henry VI. by Ellis Davy, citizen and meroer of Lon-
don. The revenues of this chanty originally 181. per annum, are
now increased to 73L 2s. The honse was some years since re-
built
In another edifice called the lAttle Alms-house, the parish poor
are usually placed ; and in 1775, some new buildings were erected
lor the rec^tion of twelve poor inhabitants, with a sum of money
given by the late Earl of Bristol, and a voluntary subscription of
the inhabitants.
The summer assizes have long been held alternately at Guild-
ford and Croydon. In 1806, the building here appropriated to thai
purpose being old and inconvenient, an Act of Parliament was ob-
tained for empowering the trustees to sell237 acres of waste land,
which by the Inclosure Act had been vested in their hands for the
nse of the inhabitants, and with the produce to erect a court*
house fit for the reception of the judges of assize, to rebuild the
market-house, and to purchase a piece of land for a burial-ground.
A handsome and commodious Town Hall has accordingly been
erected from the designs of Mr. Cockerell, and the trustees we
engaged in effecting the other improvements.
A Navigable Canal firom Croydon, connecting with the Grand
Surrey Canal at Rotherhithe, was begun in 1801, and opened in
October 1809. In the former year also commeneed the construc-
tion of an tron raiUway fit»m Wandsworth to this place, which
has since been extended to Herstham, near Reigate. The &cilities
thus
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thus mf oHed to trade cflsnot AliI to inereaae tbe commercial im-
portance and prosperity of Croydon.
In the vicinity of the town are several gentlemen's manaionsur
Haling House, to the soath, la, with the manor of Haling, the
property of William Parker Himmond, Esq. but in the occupation
of James Penlees, Esq. Shirley House, to the east, waa bnilt itt
1720, by the grandfather of John CUxton^ Esq. the present owner.
Coombe House is the residence of James Henry Bourdieu, Esq.
by whose father it was purchased in 1761, of James Matthias^
Esq. Addiscomhe House, a handsome edifice, is said to have
been built by Sir JohnVauburgh, and the walls and ceiling of the
staircase and saloon to have been painted by Sir James Thornhilh
In the 1 6th century it was the residence of the Herons; and
during the last century was successively occupied by Lord Chan-
cellor Talbot» who expired here. Lord Grantham, and the lata
Earl of Liverpool. It is now by marriage the property of E. H.
Delme RadclifTe, Esq.
A considerable part of Norwood lies in the parish of Croydon.
In a survey of 1646, it is described as containing " 830 acres, ia
which the inhabitants of Croydon have herbage for all nuuiner of
cattle and mastage for swine without stint.'' The whole of this
waste appears to have been at no very remote period covered with
wood ; and Aubrey mentions a large and remarkable tree, called
Vicar^s Oak, at which the ^^t parishes of Battecsea, Camberwell,
Streatham, and Croydon, meet in a point*.
Addington
* It is obterred in the Kid^M JBrtteimJa, (V. 374.) tbst Norwood " U Mid
to have coiutsted i» holly of oaki, and among them was one that bare mitseltob
which some penons were so hardy as to cat for the gain of selling it to th«
apothecaries of London, learing a branch of it to sprout oot. Bnt they
proved unfortonate after it: for one of them fell Iame» and the others lost an
eye. At length, in the year 1678, a certam man, notwithstanding lie waa
warned against it upon the aeconnt of what the otheca had suffered, advcD^
tored to cat the tree down, and he soon after brake hb leg« To fell oakt
ha'h long been coouted faul, and snch as believe it produce the instance of
tJie Esrl of Winchelsea, who having felled a curious grov« of oaksr soon
after
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SURBET. 129
Addinotoit is a Tillage on the border of Kent, abont three
miles east of Croydon. The inhsJ)itant8 have a tradition, that this
place was formerly of much greater extent than at present, and i|
is related, that timbers and other materials of ruined buildings
have sometimes been turned up here by the plough. Near the
ehurch is a hill, on which a castle is said to have once stood; it
still retains the name of Castle HilL This circumstance in*
deed is not without autbority, for Sir Robert de Aguillon, lord
of this manor, in the time of Henry III. had a licence to fortify
and imbattle his house bere. On the common above the village
is a cluster of tumuli, about twenty-five in number; they are of
no great height, but one of them is about forty feet in diameter.
Part of the present manor is said in Domesday to have been
then held of the king by Tezelin, the cook. Bartholomew de
Chesney, in the reign of Henry II. held the same per serfean-
Ham coquince. In 18 Henry III. 1234, we find that William
de Aguillon, in right of his wife, a daughter of de Chesney,
held this manor by the scrjeanty of making hastias in the king's
kitchen on the day of his coronation, or some one in his stead to
make a dish which is called giranit, or gyrotM ; and if seym (a
Saxon word for fat J be put in, then it is called Malpigemoun,
In another record he is said to have held by the serjeanty of find-
ing a cook on the coronation-day to prepare such food as the
king's steward shall give order for in the king's kitchen. We
are elsewhere told, that this dish was to be prepared in oUa
lutea. This service is still kept up, and a dish of pottage was
presented by Mr. Spencer, lord of the manor, to his present Ma-
jesty at bis coronation. Mr. Lysons observes^ that he cannot find
that there exists any ancient receipt for making the mess, unless
it be that called hardolf, in a collection of ancient cookery re-
ceipts in the fourteenth century, printed at the end of the Royal
Hottsbold establishment, published by the Society of Antiquaries,
Vol. XIV. K in
after found his coantess dead in her bed suddenly, and his eldest son, the
I/ord Maidstone, was lilled at sea by a €annon*buIIet." A relic probabljr of
the superstitions of the Druids.
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ISO tCRRBT.
in 1790. It was called a pottage, aud eooaisled of aimond-milk^
brawji of capons, sugar and ^ioes, chicken parboiled and cliop^
ped, &C.*
Addingtfm Place, a handaome modern bnilding, yAAch stands
nearly ia the centre of a park^ about half a mile from the churchy
was begun in 1772, by Alderman Trecotkiek, who in 1768, pnr-
diased this estate (or 38,d00t. By his nephew the maiutf, maa«
aion, and advowson, were sold, in 1803, to Thomas Coles;^ Es^ ;
and in 1807, an Act of Parliament having passed to empower the
Archbishop of Canterbary to purchase a suitable place for the
•ummer*residence of himself and his successors, instead <^ btiilding
a new palace at Croydon, this estate was bought for that purpose'
and annexed to. the see. His Grace is aboat to attach a private
chapel to the mansion, and to make some, other additions.
Bedoinoton is thought from the urns and other remains of
that kind discovered there, to have been frequented by the Ro*
mans; aud Gale says f, he had heard that in the glebe land of
this parish, stones which have been smoothed are often turned up
with the plough.
Two of the manors in this parish became by marriage the pro.
perty of NichoUs de Cairo, or Carew, keeper of the privy seal to
£dward 111. and one of his execators. In his descendants this
estate has ever since been vested, except for a short interval alter
the attainder of Sir Nicholas Carew, in 1539.
Beddington Park, the seat of this family, is the resid^ce of
>?in«am Gee, Ettq. a younger brother of the present propriety,
who assumed tlie name of Curew. The old mansion was built in the
16th century, by Sir Francis Carew, who laid out the gardens and
planted them with choice fruit-trees, in the cultivation of which
he took great delight, and spared no expense to procure them
from foreign countries. The iirst orange-trees seen in England
are said to have been planted by him. Aubrey says, that be
brought them from Italy, but the editors of the Biograpitia
Briimmica assert, from a tradition preserved in the family, that
Sir
* Envinms 1. 4. t Commtnt oo Antonia,
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tVEKBT. 131
Hir FhtncM raised Uiem from seeds of the' itnt oisnges which
were imported into England^ by Sir Walter Ralegh, who had mar-
ried his Dieee, the daughter of Sir Nicholas Throckmorton. Be
this as it may, the trees were planted in the open ground; they
were preserved in the winter by a moyeable shed, and flourished
about a century and a half *> but were destroyed by the hard
frost, in 1739-40. In August 1599, Queen Elizabeth paid a
visit of three days to Sir Francis, and again in the same month
the ensuing year. The Queen's Oak, and her favourite walk are
stiU pobted out The attention paid by Sir Fhucis to his fruit-
trees is proved by his shewing to tbe queen at one of these visits
a cherry-tree with ripe fruit, which he had kept back a month be-
yond the usual time. Over the whole tree he strained a canvas,-
which was occasionally wetted ; by this means the cherries grew
large, and continued pale ; when assured of the queen's coming
he removed the canvas, and a few sunny days brought them to
their colour f .
Sir Francis died single, and left Beddington, with other estates,
to Nicholas Throckmorton, youngest son of his sister, on con-
dition of his taking the surname of Carew. Elizabeth, sister of
this gentleman, was the wife of Sir Walter Ralegh, and when
he was beheaded, obtained leave to bury his body, which she
intended to have conveyed to Beddington, as appears from an ori-
ginal letter $ of hers preserved among the ftimily |>apers. It is
addressed «
To my best b (brother)
Sur Nicholas
Carew, at
beddington
I desiar good brother that you will be pleased to let me hern
K9 the
* Iq an accoont of leTeral gardens near London, written in 1691> and
printed in the l9th volame of the Arclutologia, it is said, that the hoase in
which these orange-trees grew, was above fOO feet in length ; that most of
the trees were thirteen feet high, and that the preceding year the gardener
Ittd gathered from them at least ten thoosand oranges.
t Piatt's Garden of Edea^ 166. t Manmog's Sorvey, II. 5S7.
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lift- SUARBY.
the worthi boddi of^my nobel hosban Bur Waher Ralegli ia j6o^
ehorche at bedingtoD ; where I desiar to be berrdL The 1bMe9
have geven me his dead boddi thought thay denied me fa»'jlREf.~
This nit bee shall be brought yon with two or three of Wf'
men: let me her presently.
E. R. God hold me in
my wites.
(No date)
For what reason we am not informed this intention mm not
executed, as Sir Waiter's body was interred in 8t Margaret*#
charch^ Westminster, and his head was carried by las son to West
fiorsky, in this county.
The present mansion was erected about 1709. It oonsistMl
of three sides of a square ; but the interior of the north wing vao
homt soon afterwards, and has never been restored. The centvw
is a large and lofty hall, with a beautiful Gothic roof of wood ;
the great door has a curions ancient lock, very richly wroaglit»
a shield with the arms of England, which moves in a groove torn*
cealing the key*hole. In this hall is a portrait of a lady ■!•»
takenly shewn as Queen Elizabeth : her arms, in a comer of 4feli
picture are those borne by the family of IVywnley. A small 3
adjoining to the hall retains the ancient pannels with i
carving; over the chimney is a small portrait of one of t&e Oft*
rews, surrounded by a pedigree. * Another room has aevdhll
portraits of the Hacket family ; among these is a good pictnro'W
Bishop Hacket, said to be by Sir f^eter Lely. In a parlour nl
the north end of the hall, are some other family portratts, the
most remarkable of which is that of Sir Nicholas Carew, who was
beheaded in the reign of Henry VIII. painted on board. A gbo4
copy of it taken some years ago when the original was in a auino
perfect state than at present, is preserved at Strawberry Hill *.
In the church, which appears to be of the age of Richard II.
are
* From this copy Mr. LysoDs bad the engraving aade* which accompanica
Im accimat of tbii pariih.
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Surrey.
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SURREY. 133
Rre many aepalchral memorials of the Careirs^ for whose burial*
place a small chapel^ or aisle, was erected in the 16th century,
by Sir Richard, or his son Sir Nicholas. Here, among other mo«
numents, is a magnificent one for Sir Francis Carew, who died
in 1611, aged eighty-one. It is supported by Corinthian columns
of black marble^ between which lies his effigy in complete ar-
mour.
Against the wall of the north aisle is a tablet in a wooden
irame, with a quibbling inscription, to the memory of Thomas
Greenhill, B. A. steward to Sir Nicholas Carew, who died in
1634. It. is headed with these words: Mors super virides
monies, and concludes with the following lines;
He once a HiU was fresh and Greene,
Nov withered is not to be seene ;
Earth in earth sfaovell'd ap is shat
A Hill into a hole is put.
Bat darksome eiirth by power diTine
Bright at last at the sonne may shine.
The hamlet of Jfallington, in this parish, formerly gave nam«
to the hundred, and Is supposed to ha^e been a place of con-
siderable importance* Manning observes, that this opinion is
countenanced by the foundations of anci^t buildings discovered
here, and in the neighbourhood at Carshalton and Beddington,
together with the great number of human bones dug up at the
former place ; and says, that the urns and spear-heads found near
the spot leave no doubt that it was formerly possessed by the Ro-
mans themselves. As an additional evidence, he appeals to the
name, which he derives from the Latin vaMcm ^. An ancient
chapel, which stood in a field near the road, and is described by
the same writer, was taken down about 1791.
This hamlet, situated on the banks of the Wandle, is consider-
ably more populous than Beddiugton, the latter containbg only
K 3 65 housfii^
* Manmng's Surrey I. S67.
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134 89RftBT.
M hooses, and the former 135, the grealeir jpart of which haTe
been erected since 1789.
At Woodeote, in the parish of Beddiogton, now a atngle fium-
house, Camden, Gale, and other learned antiquaries hare fixed
the Naviinnagus of Antoninns ; whilst others contend, that the
place so denominated by the ancient writera, must have been in
Kent Notwithstanding all the arguments that ha^e been ad-
duced on both sides, the point still remains undecided: but so
much seems to be generally admitted, that at Wallington, or
Woodcote, or somewhere between both, there was formerly a town
or at least a considerable station of some kind or other.
At Carshalton is MasctUPi, or CarskalUm Park, the pro-
perty and residence of George Taylor, Esq. It was purchased
at the conclusion of the 17th century, by Sir William Scawen,
whose nephew, about 1723, proposed to erect a magnificent man-
sion on a rising ground in the park, from designs by Leoni. The
materials were prepared at a great espenae, but the building was
never begun.
In the church of this village is a curious monument ipr the
family of Gaynesford, who formerly had a residence at Carsbal*
ton, which was demolished in 1800. It consists of an altar<-
tomb of Purbeck marble ; over it is fixed in the wall a large slab
of the same material, on which are upright figures of Nicholas
Gaynesford, his four sons and three daughters. These figures
have been gilded and enamelled ; the enamel in which the dra-
pery of the wife has been painted still remains, which is a cir-
cumstance rarely to be met with in tombs of this kind. Her
head-dress, of extraordinary size corresponds with other speci-
r mens of the same date ; her robe, which has loose sleeves, is red,
edged with gold. Gaynesford himself appears in armour, kneeling
on one knee, his gauntlet and sword are at his feet. Behind him
are his four sons, the eldest of whom appears in armour as the
esquire, the second is habited as a priest^ and the third and fourth
• as merchants.
This Nicholas Gaynesford was five times sherifi'of Surrey, and
t in
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SURRET. 135
in high fiivoinr with Henry YII. He vas one of those who
attended his qaeen in her procession from tlie Tower to West*
miDstery previonsly to her coronation, when, as we are informed in .
ft mannsciipt in the Cotton labrary, he and Vemey, the other
Es^ire of Honour, rode with the Lord. Mayor ** well horsedein
gownes of cremyseue veWett, having mantells of ermyne, and
on their hedes hatts of rede clothe of golde ermyne, the beher for-
ward/' The time of his death is uncertain, as his monument
^eems to have been executed in his life-time with blanks for the
dates, which have not been filled up.
Mitcham Grow, in the parish of Mitcham, a pleasant villa^
near the Wandle, was purchased by Lord Clive, and presented to
Alexander Wedderbum, Esq. afterwards Lord Loughborough, in
return for his celebrated defence of that nohleman in the House of
Commons. It was sold by his lordship iu 1789, to Henry Hoare,
Esq. the present owner.
At Sandersted is Sandersted Courts a mansion with a park
adjoining to it, lately the property oftheWigsell family, who
purchased of Sir John Stonehohse another seat here, called the
Place House, which they pulled down, and laid the ground into
their park.
In the same parish is Purley, an estate on which was formerly
a mansion, the residence of a family who took their name from
it, but now reduced to a farm-house, reroarkahle as the residence
of the learned author of the Diversions ofPurley, whilst com*
posing the work to which he gave that title.
The parish of Woodmansterne, or Woodmamtone, is said
by Mudge and Dalby in their Trigonometrical Survey, to be the
highest ground in the county, with the exception of Leith Hill ;
and so healthy is the situation, that eighteen months often pasa
Without a burial, in a population of 150 persons.
In this parish, on Bansted Downs, is The Oaks, originally an
ale-house; which was purchased by General Burgoyne, who built
an elegant dining-room, and fitted up the place for a hitnting-
4pat. It was sold by the general to the Earl of Derby, who has
K4 greatly
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IM sinuiBT.
greatly enlarged the hoiue, and enclosed uqqIi of the adjoining
common field, so that it is sunoanded by plantations two milea
in circumference. Here iras giyen the celebratedySf e ckgmpiire,
in celebration of the earl's first marriage, which ftmushedGeaenl
Borgoyne with the subject of a musical entertainment intitaled
TTieMmdoftheOaks,
The Hundred of Tandridge
forms the south-east angle of the county, bordering to the south
on Sussex, to the east on Kent; on the north < it is bounded by
Ooydon hundred, and on the west by the same and that of
Reigate. It belongs to the deanry of Ewell, and comprehenda
fifteen parishes : Blechitigletf, Caterham, CheUkam^ Crawhurst^
Farleigh, Godst<me, Umptfield, IJngfield,Ohe$ted, Tandridge,
TattesfieU, Titsey, Warlingkam, and Woldmgkam.
Bi^echinoley
is a small boroogh town, not far firom the foot of the great chalk-
hills which divide the county. It had formerly a weekly market^
which has long been disused ; but two fain are still heM here
oh the the 22d of June and 2d of November. To the latter,
which was granted by Edward I. in 1263, are brought great
numbers of horses, hogs, and lean cattle, fitmi Scotland and
Wales.
According to Salmon, it was owing to the interest of the
Earl of Warren, thai three places so near together as Reigate,
Ckitton, and Blechingley, obtained the privilege of bei^g repre-
aented in parliament, to which the latter has sent two members
ever since 23 Edward I. The right of election is vested in the
burgage-bolders resident within the borough ; there are ninety-
seven houses within its limits, and fifty-six in what is termed
ika foreign, that is beyond the limits of the borough* The bai-
liff of the manor was the returning officer till a teaolution of the
House
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House of Gomnoim, in 1723» deprived him of that offiee ; so that
this place now exhibits the singniarity of a borongh sending two
members to Parliament without any person who can claim the ex*
ctosive exercise of this authority*
The manor, which is upwards of twenty miles in chrcnit, was at
the time of the Domesday Survey, the property of Richard de
Tonhridge, Earl of Clare, in whose family it continued to the
ninth generation. It was afterwards carried by marriage to the
Stafibrds, Dukes of Buckingbaro, and formed part of the settle-
ment made by Henry VIII. on his divorced Queen Anne of
Cleves. The Howards, liords Effingham, and the Mordaonts,
Eark of Peterborough, were successively owners of the estate,
tiU in 1677, it was bought by Sir Robert Clayton, one of whose
noceessomiu 1786, sold the reversion to his maternal relation John
Kenrick, Esq. and his younger brother the Rev. Jervis Kenrick
is the present proprietor.
The Cattle is supposed to have been originally built by
Richard de Tonbridge. In the reign of Henry III. his descen*
dant Gilbert, suinamed the Red, having joined the disaffected
barons, and commanded a division of their forces at the battle
•f licwes, in 1264, his conduct, though his party proved victori-
otM, ocessioned the demolition of this fortress; for the King's
forces then in garrison at Tonbridge Castle, hearing of his de-
foat, sallied out on the Londoners, who had been dispersed in the
beginning of the engagement, and were ooUecting their shattered
remains at Croydon, and destroyed Blechingley Castle in their
way. Whether it was ever rebuilt afterwards we are not informed.
This castle stood at the western extremity of the town, on what is
BOW a coppice, on a bold brow of a hill, commanding an extensive
view of Holmsdale in every direction. In Aubrey's time (1673)
a piece of a wall was standing, but the foundations only are now
to be found.
The Church dedicated to St Mary, is a large, handsome build-
ing. The low, square tower contains eight belh^ and had for-
merly
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198 softixT.
liierly a Io% spire^ 170 feet ia heigbl, sappoted to oontab 96(^
loads of oak timber, and covered witb shingles; bot it was bnniedl
by lightning in 1606 and not rebaitt The church conaisis of a
nave, with a south aisle and a doable chancel ; and a tranaep^
called Ham Chapel. The south chancel is entirely occupied by
the magnificent monument of the first Sir Robert Clayton and hia
lady, with thdir whole length figures in white marble. He is re-:
presented in his robes as Lord Mayor of London, and with the in-*
aignia of his office. Between them^ on a curtain of white amiU^
is this inscription :«v
*' Here rests what was mortal of Shr Robert Clayton, Knt in.
the yesr MDCLXXX, Lord Mayor, and at his death Alderman
and Father of the City of London, and near XXX yean was
one of its Representatives in Parliament. By the justest methoda.
and skill in business he acquired an ample fortune, which he
applied to the noblest purposes, and mwe than once ventuTed it
all for his country. He fixed the seat of his ftimily at Marden^
where he hath 1^ a remarkable instance of the pditeness of hia
genius; and how far Nature may be improved by Art. Hia
relations, his friends, the Hospital of St. Thomas, in Southwark^
(of which he was President) Christ Church Ho^ital, and the
Workhouse in London, were large sharers of his bounty. He
lived in the Communion of the Church of England, and in the
most perfect charity with all good men, however divided amongst
! themselves in opinions. The wel&re of his country was the only
aim of his public actions, and in all the various efibits that wefB
made in his time for preserving its ConsUtution, he bore «
great ahare, and acted therein with a cquftancy of mind which no
I prospect of danger could ever shake. It is but just that the ne«
mory of so good and so great a man should be transmitted to aAerr
I ages, since in all the private and public transactions of his life ho
hath left so bright a pattern to imitate, but hardly to be outdone,
Ue vas bo|ii at Bnlwick in Northimiptonshire, theXXIXth daj
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gUKRET. 139
of September, aimo Dom. MDCXXIX and died at Ifarden the
XVI day of Jnly MDCCVIL" ♦
In this ehnroh are also interred the remains of Dr. John Tfao«
mas. Bishop of Rochester, who died in 1793, aged eighty-two
years ; and those of his wife, the daughter of Sir William Clay-
ton, Bart who died in 1772. Dr. Thomas succeeded Dr. Her*
ring,
f The parents of Sir Robert Clayton, who had sereral children, occapied
• small farm of twenty pounds a year, at Bnlwick, in Northamtonshire. He
kad received no edncation when be came to London, where he soon got into
the service of a money scrivener in a very low capacity; and gradoaUy rose
to be a principal in hb master's boose, llie industry of a long, soccessfol
life, and a legacy equal to his own fortoncy which he received from his part*
ner, will saffidently aoooant lor the ^eat estate which he left behind hinu'
There is great reason to sospect the justice of Dryden's character of him in his
virulent satire of Absalom and Achitbopbel, and to suppose that it originated
in par1y»motives, to which indeed that poet is well known to have prosCilvted
his talents. To have raised himself under snch disadvantages to the chief
magistracy of the metropolis, and to have conducted himself as a principal
leader of the truly patriotic party in those critical and dangerous times, is aa
iQContestible proof of Sir Robert Clayton's superior abilities. He was very
active in the Exclusion Billi in the reign of Charles II. and in all the n^ea-
sures of the opposition of that period, and of course became very obnoxious
to the court* When Lord Russel was selected as a victim to party on that oo»
casion. Sir Robert was doomed to be sacrificed to the same principles ; but
was saved by Lord Chancellor JeiTeries, the foundation of whose fortune had
been laid hy Sir Robert, who had exerted his influence in procuring him
the appointment of Recorder of X^ndon. He represented Blecbingle j in 1690,
1698, and 1709. In his charities Sir Robert was a pattern of munificence. He
was the proposer and successful procurer of the establishment of the mathe-
matical school in Christ's Hospital for bringing up forty bojs to a knowledge
of navigation. Sir Robert afterwards advised with bis friend Mr. Firmin
about adding a ward for girls in this hospital, and gave him the sole manage-
ment of the building. No one besides, even of Sir Robert's own family, ex-
cept his partner Mr. Morris, knew at whose charge it was carried on. When
about 4000L was expended, parties running high, Sir Robert and Mr. Firmin,
who had always been strenuous opposers of arbitrary power, were turned out
by the other party from the government of the hospital. Mr. Firmin then
'broke silence, and upbraided the governors with depriving the mstitaiion of
^ch a benefactor at the bnildet of that ward, whose name he th^n declaredi -
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140 80RRET.
ring, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbory, in this rectory, irhieii
he held till his promotion to the see of Rochester in 1.775.
A Free School was founded here in 1633 by Thomas Evans for
twenty poor boys of this borough. He endowed it with lands,
containing abont thirty acres, in the adjoining parish of Nut*
field ; and Mr. Bostock, of Tandridge^ gave a house and gard^
for the master.
Here are also ten Alms-houses, chiefly built by the parish in
1668. Another was added by Dr. Charles Hampton, rector, who
died in 1677, and by his will left a small rent-charge to be dis-
tributed in faggots among the inhabitants of these houses.
The ancient manor-house called Blechingley-Place, stood in
Brewer-street, and was the residence of Edward Duke of Buck-
ingham, beheaded by Henry Till. Some of his conversations
at this house with his chancellor and Sir George Nevil, wers
given in evidence on his trial. It was pulled down by one of the
Earls of Peterborough; bat the prater's lodge 4ias been trans-
fcrmed into a form-house.
In the parish of Godstone, which is thirteen miles in length
from north to south, is Marden Park, situated in a valley at the
foot of the chalk-hills. It was originally a farm-house till the
first Sir Robert Clayton made it the residence of his fiunily, and
is now the seat of John Hatsell, Esq. Flower House, a little to
the east of Godstone Green, is the residence of the Hon. George
Henry Neville. Fellhridge House, a handsome mansion at the
southern extremity of the parish on the borders of Sussex, was
the seat of the late James Evelyn, Esq. by whom it was erected
on the site of a tomer house called Heath Hateh. It stands in
;a park bounded on the south by Fellhridge Water, a small stream
which divides this county from Sussex ; but thirty acres of the
park are in Tandridge, though separated by Godstone from the
rest of that parish.
On Godstone Green, in the way to Blechingley, are two small
barrows, and two in the adjoining fields on the north side of the
Green. On the chalk-hill on Sir William Clayton's estoto is a
quairyA
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suaaBT. 141
qaanry, which yields a kind of freenstone that is extremely diira«
Ue if kept constantly vet or dry. It is used for wet-doclui,
ovens, and other purposes ; and with it Westminster Hall was
new paved daring the last century.
About three miles to the south of the village of Godstone is
a well of water, known by the appellation of tr<m Pear-Tree
Water, which has been found very efficacious in caring the goat^
It is also esteemed good in bilious and other disorders.
In the parish of HoubnE King Athelstan is said to have had
a house. If ever there was such a building, it probably stood oi|
the site of what is now called Thunderjield Cmtle, a piece of
ground, snirounded by two or three ditches, the outermost of
which is mostly filled with water. It lies near a feurm-house at
Harrowsley Green, which Mr. Manning suggests may be a cort
ruption of Harold's-legh, from Harold, into whose possession the
royal residence might possibly have come.
' Bysske Court in this parish is the property and residence of
John Manship Ewart, Esq. This mansion was purchased ia
1788, with the manor attached to it, by his grandfather, John
Ewart, Esq. an eminent distiller in London, who pulled down
the old house, which was suirounded by a moat, and erected a
new one near the spot, converting the whole site of the former
bnilding into a kitchen*garden, to which the moat serves as a
fence.
At L1N0FIBI.D, Reginald Lord Cobham, in 1431, obtained a
licence of Henry VI. to found and endow a college, und to change
the parochial into a collegiate church. He accordu^gly built his
college at the west-end of the church-yard for a provost or master,
and six chapUins besides clerks, of the Carthusian Order, whose
estates, at the Dissolution, were valued at 79L 15b. lOid. per
annum. In Aubrey's time this building was still standing ; and
he says that he had seen no religious house whose remains were
•so entire. The first story was of free-stone, and above that it
vas composed of brick and timber. Within was a square court
with a cloister round it There was a convenient handsome hall
9 and
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I4tt BlfRRET.
and parkar; above the prieat^a table waa a canopy of imdiBoot;
and some iascriptiona vere atill left in the windowa. Thia
building continued standing till abont the time of George L
when the greater part of it waa pulled down, and a foni-luyBaa
erected on ita aite.
The church of lingfield containa aone cvrioua monuBenta.
In the iMTe, iaawdiately befae the chaneeli ia a large altartaaib^
hn which lie two whole length figuraa of white nnrbfe of a man
and woBHui, heinanndur, with hia inl rarthig on a dag, and hia
head e* a hehiet. A glove liea by hai r%ht aide; he baa no
beard, and hia hair is bound over the templea with a fflet. The
woman'a feet rest on a winged dragon, and two small ajigela
anpport her head. At the east end are foar shields of aims ; at
the west end seven ; and the aame number on the north and sooth
aides. Adjoining to the skreen which separates the east end of
the nave from the north aisle, is another tomb without inscrip-
tion : upon which lies a whole length figure of a man in armour ;
hia head in mail reating on a cushion, which has been supported
by two small figures now mutilated. His feet rest against a small
figure of a man with a long beard, and a turban on his head,
which is supported by his right hand. This may perhaps refer
to some exploit performed in the Crusades. The arms on the
sides of this tomb are nearly obliterated. Here are several mo-
numents of the Cobham family, and also of the Howards, Earb of
Effingham, In this church is also interred Sir James Burrow,
Knt F. R. S. and F. S. A. Master of the Crown Office, who died
in 1782, aged eighty-one.
In this parish is Sterhurgh or Sterhorough Cattle, which,
with the manor of Sterburgh or Priokham, was purchased in
1793 by Thomas Torton, Esq, who was high-sheriff of the county
in 1795, and was created a baionet in the following year. This
estate anciently belonged to the family of Cobham, of which
Reginald, who was created a knight banneret by Edward III.
obtained a licence in the fifteenth year of that reign to imbattle
and fortify his house at Prinkham, which then received the ap-
pellation
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•VllRBf, 143
peliation of Sterburgh Castle, It afterwards descended to the
Barghs, or Boroughs. Daring the civil war in the times of
Charles I. this structure was in such a state as to receive a gar^
risen and was occupied hy the forces of the Parliament ; hut
being situated in a part of the kingdom which was completely in
their power, nothing worth recording happened here. It was one
of those places which after the king's death the Derby House Com-
mittee were directed to put in such condition that no nse might
be made of them to the endangering of the peace of the kingdom ;
and this probably led to its demolition. Sir James Burrow, into
whose possession Sterburgh Castle came about the middle of last
century, had a rough drawing of the ground plan, with a very mde
ancient map, in a corner of which is a small sketch of the eleva*
tion of the Castle. It appears to have had a round tower wi^ %
dome at each comer, a drawbridge, and a court in the centre.
The area, including the moat, was upwards of an acre and a half.
The moat has been cleaned out by the present proprietor, pre*
serving exactly its original lines, and is now a fine piece of
water, kept up by a spring rising in one of the farms about two
miles distant. It has a constant current, and after supplying the
house and offices, falls into the river Eden. Part of the present
house was built by Sir James Burrow. Sir Thomas Turion
added to it a good dining and drawing-room ; and removed the
stabhs and farm-yard which were lef^ by Sir James in front of
the house. On the ground inclosed within the moat. Sir James
built a room with stones wliich he found upon the spot, and placed
over the door this inscription ;
ObKoro positut loco
Leni pcrfruar otio.
On the right of this was the following under the arms of Cob«
ham : Munivit Reginaldus de Cobham per lAcentiam Edwardi
*y» dat* 18^ Octobris anno regni 15' de manso kemellando
1342 a" Id** E. 3. On the left, under the arms of Burrow ;
Hunc quantulam cunque particulam restituit Jacobus Burrow, 1754.
In
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144 imiftEY.
In the room are whole length portraits of Lord Borvngh, lord <le«
paty of Ireland dariiig the reign of Queen Elizabeth^ and another
of the fiunily, with three more antique heads, the names not
known.
Takdeidoe, though now a small village, was formerly of snf-
fieient consequence to gi?e name to the hundred. Salmon, with
great plausibility, conjectures, that the original name was Stan^
rige, from the old Stane-street road in Godstone, which passes
near it
Not hi from the foot of the chalk-hill was an hospital for three
priests and several poor brethren, or as it was more generally
termed in later times, a Priory of Augustine Canons, founded, as
it is generally supposed, in the time of Richard I. by Odo, son
of William de Dammartin, though the style of his charter* im-
plies no more than that he was a considerable benefactor. At the
Dissolution its annual revenues were valued at 861. 7s. ; and its
possessions were soon afterwards given by Henry VIII. to John
Rede, in exchange for his estate at Oatlands in Weybridge. The
buildings belonging to this establishment have long4een entirely
demolished, though the name of the priory is perpetuated in a mo-
dern farm-boose ; and in clearing the ground paving tiles have
been found, but without any ornament.
Near the foot of the chalk-hills is Rooks-nest, a handsome
mansion, with about 240 acres of land, 140 of which are laid
out as a paiic. This estate was part of the possessions of the
priory, and was granted with them to John Rede. It was the
property and residence of the late Sir Henry Strachey, Bart so
created in 1801, and who also held the situation of Master of hia
Majesty's household.
The Hundred of Reiqate.
This hundred, which with its principal town, was anciently
denominated Ckerthfield, adjoins to Sussex on the south; is
bounded
* In ATmi. Anlg. II. 403.
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StJRR£t. 145
bmmded on the eut by Tandridge ; on the north by Croydon ;
and on the west by the hundreds of Dorking and Copthom. It
lies in the deanery of Ewel, and contains the parishes of Beech-
worth, (which Domesday Book and modem maps place in the
hundred of Wotton}^ Buckhmd, Burstaw, Charlwood, Chip"
sted. Gotten, Horley, Leigh, Merstham, Kingswood lAherty,
(in the parish of Ewel^) Newdigate, (that part of it called the
Hamlet, the remainder being in Copthom hundred) NutJieU and
Reigate,
RsiGAtfi
is situated at the foot of the ridge of chalky down which
crosses the county^ and consists of two streets^ tlie principal^ or
the High. street^ running nearly east and west^ and the other^
called Bell-street, from north to 8onth« It has a good weekly
market on Tuesday, the charter for which was obtained by John
Earl of Warren, 6 Edward 11. In 1673 Charles II. granted a
charter for another market to be held on the first Wednesday in
every month, which for some time fell into disuse, but has lately
been revived.
The town stands on a rock of beautiful white sand, which, it
is said, cannot be equalled for colour by any in the kingdom.
From wells dug in this rock the place is supplied with excellent
water. In the returns of 1801 the population of the parish is
stated at 2246, inhabiting 417 houses, of which the town con-
tained l'^6 houses, occupied by 923 persons. This place, till
about sixty 'years ago, carried on a considerable trade in oatmeal,
in the manufiaicture of which nearly twenty mills were employed ;
but the trade gradually declined, and one mill only now remains.
Reigate has sent two members to Parliament since 23 Edward I.
The electors are the freeholders of messuages or burgage tene-
ments within the precincts of the borough ; tlie returning officer
being the bailiff of the manor. Here, however, as in many other
places, the ceremony of election is a mere farce, all the electors
being under the influence of the noble fomilies of Somers and
Vol. XIV. L Hardwicke,
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140 fttRREY.
Uardwicke, to the former of whom the manor belongs. Reigate
eonfei-s the title of baron on the Earl of Peterborongh.
On the north side of the town, behind the principal street, was
situated tiie Castle, of whose ancient history we know bnt little^
and of its original foundation still less. The scanty accounts of
it that have reached our times ascribe its origin to some of the
Warrens, Earls of Surrey ; but others assert, that whateyer was
erected by them stood on the site of a much more ancient struc-
ture, the work of the Saxons. If, indeed, the inhabitants of
these parts were so actiye and successful in repelling the Danish
plunderers, as to have given occasion to the proverbial distich
attributed to them by Camden :
The Vale of Holmesdale,
Never wonne, ne never ihall,
it is not unlikely, considering the importance of the .sitnation,
that their leaders had a fortress here sufficient for the purposes
of rendezvous and security. Be this as it may, so much is cer-
tain, that the Castle of Reigate was one of the chief seats of the
powerful Earls of Warren and Surrey. The wavering policy of
one of these noblemen in King John's reign occasioned the tem*
porary loss of this castle, which, in 1216, was surrendered to
Louis, Dauphin of France. At what time it was first suffered tm
go to ruin is not known ; but its final demolition was probably
occasioned by the jealousy of Parliament in 1648. Some por*
tions of the outer wall were standing about thirty years ago, but
no part of the building now remains.
The site of this structure is the property of Lord Somers,
It is an eminence surrounded by a ditch of considerable breadth
and depth on the .south and west sides. On the summit of the
liill, which contains an area of one acre thirty-eight poles, and
forms a lawn of very fine turf, is erected a summer apartm^it in a
taste corresponding with the design of the original erection ; and
•n the east side, without the ditch, is a gateway of stone in the
t ancient
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8UREET. 147
ancient style^ erected in 1777 by Mr. Richard Barnes, attorney*
at-law of Reigate, who then occupied the premises. In the centre
of the area is the entrance by a flight of steps, covered with a
small building of a pyramidal form, to the depth of eighteen feet»
and then regalarly without steps twenty-six feet more, and the
whole length 235 feet, into a cave or room 123 feet long, thirteen
wide, and eleven high, to the crown of the arch : in one part of
which is a crypt, near fifty yards in length, with a seat of stone
at the end, which extended the whole length of the room en both
sides. This cave probably served its lords both as a repository
for their treasures and military stores, and a place of safe custody
for their prisoners. The arch, which is supposed to have formed
a private communication with the town, is broken, and the cavity
stopped. In 1802 a spur of extraordinary size was fouid here at
the depth of three feet in the ground.
The Priory, a modern mansion at the southern extremity of
the town, belongs, with the grounds, containing about seventy-
six acres, to Lord Somers. It stands on the site of a religious
house founded by William de Warren, Earl of Surrey, who died
in 1240« and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the Holy Cross.
It consisted of a prior, and some few regular canons of the order
of St. Augustin ; but some writers, as Speed and Rymer, call it
a house of Crutched Friars,, probably because it was dedicated
to the Holy Cross, though it is known that the latter order did
not come into England till 1244, which must have been some
years after its foundation. This was one of the smaller convents
which were dissolved 27 Henry VIII. when its annual revenues
were 781. 16s. 8d.
The Church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and situated
at the western extremity of the town, is constructed of better
materials than the generality of these buildings throughout the
county, being of squared chalk, or lime-stone, probably from the
neighboring quarries. It has two aisles extending through the
chancel nearly to the east end of the nave, and an embattled
tower of hewn stone, containing eight bells. On the north side of
L2 the
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US fiCRREY.
the chancel ia an additional building of brick-work for a vesirjr,
erected by John Skynner, Esq. in 1513, having a library over
ity in which is a collection of books for the use of the parish and
neighborhood. The total length of this structure is 125 feet,
and its breadth 54^.
In the church are costly monaments for Richard Ladbroke, Esq.
who died in 1730, in his forty-ninth year; and for Sir Thomas
Bludder, Knt. and his lady, who expired within a week of each
other in 1618. Here are also sereral memorials of the family of
Thurland, and among the rest that of Sir Edward Tbnrland, Knt,
a Baron of the Exchequer daring the reign of Charies II. who
died in 1682 at the age of 76.
On a white marble in the form of a heart against the south wall
of the chancel is this inscription :— " Near this place lieth Ed-
ward Bird, Esq. dyed the 2dd of February 1719. His age 26.''
Over it is a half length bust in white marble of a man in armour,
with a full flowing wig, a truncheon in his right hand, and va*
rious warlike instruments in the back ground. Mr. Bird was a
lieutenant in the Marquis of Winchester's regiment of horse;
and in September 1718, had the misfortune to kill a waiter at a
bagnio in Crolden*square. He was tried in January following^
convicted of the murder, and hanged. His monument originally
bad a farther inscription, censoring the conduct of the judge and
jury, which was afterwards obliterated.
Under the chancel is a vault belonging to the manor of the
Priory, and made by the Lord Howard of Effingham, the first
grantee of that estate, in which are buried many of his family.
On the left side of the leaden coffin of the first Earl of Notting-
ham is the following inscription engraved in capitals :
*' Heare lyeth the body of Charles Howarde, Earle of Not-
tinghame, Lorde High Admyrall of Englande, Generall of
Queene Elizabethe's Navy Royall att Sea agaynst the Span-
yard's invinsable Navy in the yeare of our Lorde 1588; whoe
departed this life at Haling Hows the 14 daye of December in
ye yeare of our L<^d, 1624, iEtatis sve, 87/'
The
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SURREY. 1^
The Mark€t-h&us€, $l small bridL building, with ptatzss beUw
and a chamber above lor the purposes of a Tawn^Hott, was
erected aboat the year 1706, on the site of a chapel dedicated to
Thomaa Becket, which had previously been appropriated to the
same nses. A smaller building contiguous to it» denominated
the Clock'houie, was designed as a prison for felons and othem^
who are brought to the Easter Sessions held at Reigate, The
assizes also were formerly held here, and the above-mentioned
chapel served as the court A little below the neigbboripg inn
known by the sign of the White Hart, and at the upper end of
the street leading southward, are the visible remains of another
chapel, said to have been dedicated to St Lawrence. It is now
a dwelling-house, and the walls and roof are entire. To these
may be added a third, dedicated to the Holy Cross, which for-r
merly stood near th^ west end pf ^tbe principal street, and was
afterwards conyerted into, or gave place to, a bam, now razed to
its fi^ondatiop. The latter, from its name, was doubtless an
appurtenance to the priory.
The Park of Reigate is part of the demesnes of the manor
containing 150 acres, situated on the south side of the town,
but divided from it by the Priory estate ; it is high ground, and
forms a terrace upwards of half a mile in length, which commands
extensive and delightful views. It appean^ by the Survey taken
in 16tS2, that " the old Park was well stored with timber trees,
and replenished with *deer.'' About 1635, Lord Monson, who
then had the manor, disparked it, and cut down the timber.
Till lately it has been a fine turf, but is now converted into ara-
ble land, perhaps not much to the advantage of the farmer, being
a poor sandy soil The wastes of Earlswood, the Wray, and
Peteridge Heath, which, wilh Reigate Heath, belong to this
manor, were also formerly covered with timber, which is sup-
posed to have been cut down by Lord Monson about the same
time that he threw open the park. Instead of trees he filled them
with rabl^its, to the great annoyance and damage of tlie oom<
moners ; but there has been no warren in the memory of mao.^
L3 At
* Manning's Surrey, L 987.
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At East Beechworih, so called to dittiEgiiiBh it from West
Beeckworth, in the hundred of Dorking, h the mansion of the hte
Hon. William Henry Bouverie : it was built in the time of King
James I. hy Sir Ralph Freeman, who purchased this estate of
the trustees of the Earl of Abergaveuny. In this house are
portraits of Sir Ralph, one of his wife before, and another of
her after marriage, with a child ; Martin Freeman, Sir George
Vreeman, Sir Thomas More, and others. Here also are caste
from sevteral of the finest ancient statues brought from Italy by
iMr. John Harvey. In the chimney-piece of the drawing-room is
inserted a piece of sculpture from Herculaneum, representing
boys riding on bulls and horses.
Wonham, one of the manors in this parish, was purchased in
1787 by the Hon. Charles Marsham, the late £arl of Romney.
He rebuilt the house on a larger scale than before ; and on his
accession to the title sold it to John Stables, Esq. who, in 180^
disposed of it to Viscount Templetown. The grounds compre-
hend 120 acres, including a park of sixty-six, which is in pert
bounded by the river Mole.
On Smallfield Commm, in the parish of Buestow, is the
remaining part of a mansion-house built of stone, which belonged
to the family of De Burstow, and passed from them to that of
Byshe, long settled there. It was formerly called Cruttings,
and was given by Bartholomew, Lord Burghersh, to John de
Burstow, as an acknowledgement for assistance received from
him when thrown from his horse in an engagement with the
French.* The house, of which part is now standing, is supposed
to have been erected by Edward Byshe. He was a bencher of
Lincoln's Inn, and a great practitioner in the Court of Wards,
where he amassed his fortune, and used jokingly to say, that he
built this house with woodcocks' heads. A considerable part of
the mansion was taken down some years since ; and what remains
of it is converted into a farm-house.
In this house was bom Edwaeb Byshe, son of the gentleman
above*
* Byahe'i Notes on Upton.
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•URRET. 151
•lH>Te-meiiti<med. He was bred to the law ; and in 1640 returned to
Parliament for Blechingley. Having taken t!ie covenant in 1643,
he was appointeil by tbe Parliament Garter King at Arras ; and
in 1646 Clarencieux also. After the restoration of Charles IL he
was obliged to relinquish the former of these offices^ but snffered
to retain the latter, in consideration of his having, during the
interregnam, preserved the library of the College of Arms. He
was knighted, and again rettumed for Blechingley in 1661, in
which Parliament he is said to have been a pensioner at 1001. a
session. In his younger years he was esteemed a worthy and
yirtoons man ; and in his public employments is said to have
been an eminent patron of learning and learned men ; but after
the Restoration, being much in debt, he was not only reduced to
the necessity of selling many of his books, of which he had a
valnable collection, but also prostituted his office by nnwarrant**
able grants of arms to supply his necessities, so that Dugdale,
then Norroy, who had been his greatest confidant and admirer,
and by whose interest and recommendation he was brought into
the office, joined with Garter and other officers in a petition
against him. He was the author of a folio volume of Note^ on
Tracts by Upton, Bado, and Spelman, in 1654 ; and published
a translation from the Greek into Latin of Palladius de genti'mi
Indue et Brachmanihus, 4to. 1665. He also gave out that he
intended to publish a Survey, or Antiquities of the County of
Surrey, but it never appeared. He died in London 1679.
Gatton is situated on, and under the range of chalk-hilla
above Reigate ; and though a borough, consists of only a few
scattered houses. Baxter, in his Glossary, says, that this place
was well known to the Romans, whose coins, and other remains
of antiquity, have been found here in considerable quan .ies.
From its situation on one of their roads it probably received its
name of Gate-tun, or the town on the road. Gale speaks of it
as one of those places in the neighbourhood of the Thames which
were without doubt garrisoned by the Romans ;* but it is at
a greitt distance from that river.
L4 In
• Comment 71.
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IfS SCEEET,
In this pariflh is n bridge esUed Baitk Bridge, irUch haft
been written Bailey Bridge. Tradition relates that here a great
carnage of the Danes was made by the women: this probably
allades to the slaughter of some of the fngitires, after the memo-
rable defeat sustained by them at Ockley.
Aubrey obsenres^ that on the site of the present manor-house
stood a castle^ and that the town was linrmerly situated more
westwaidly, towards the top of White Hill, that is, the hill
above Reigate. Of this castle not the least trace remains; nor
is it mentioned in any of the old historians. That there woe
fonnerly more houses is very true, as many of them have been
pulled down to lessen the number of voters, who consist of inha^
bitants paying scot and lot Their present number is only about
eight, including the mansion*honses of Upper and Lower Gat*
ton, which, with all the land in the parish, except the glebe,
belong to Sir Mark Wood, Bart, the owner of the manor.
Gatton began to send members to Parliament 29 Henry YI.
1451.
The manor of Gatton was, in the fifteenth century, the pro-
perty of the Tymperley Aunily. In 1449 Henry VI. granted
John Tymperley licence to impark it, with other privileges.
How it afterwards cam6 to the Crown is not known; but it
formed part of the provision assigned to Ann of Cleves on her
divorce from Henry VIII. At the beginning of the last cen-
tury it became the property of the family of Newland, and was
purchased in 1751, with some other lands, for 29,0001. by James
Colebrooke, Esq. who, in 1759, was created a baronet By his
daughters it was sold to his brother Sir George, who made Gat-
ton his residence. The estate afterwards passed through several
hands before it became the property of the present owner.
Upper Gatton is a handsome mansion standing on the hill
next to Chipsted, surrounded by a park of about 100 acres, in
the occupation of Sir Henry Harpur Carew, Bart.
Lower Gatton, the beautiful residence of Sir Mark Wood^
Bart, stands in the midst of an extensive park. The church i^
alsQ
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alM OfliMled in fhe park ; bat all the monaments were remoyed
firom it when an alteration was made in the interior by Sir Jameiip
who pulled down the parsonage, and laid part of the glebe into
a piece of water of thirty acres.
Meastbam contains very valnable qoarries of stone, which
appear to have been in former ages considered of so much im-
portance^ that the Crown kept possession of them itself. A pa-
tent of Edward III. is yet extant^ anthoriaing John Thomaa
Prophete to dig stone here for the use of Windsor Castle, oider-
ing the sheriff, and other officers, to assist, and apprehend, such
wen as should refuse to work^ and send them prisoi^ers to Windsor.
The magnificent chapel of Henry YII, at Westminster Abbey
was also bailt with stone from these quarries. The quality which
principally occasions the e?(tensive demand for this stone, is its
effectual resistance of fire, whence it is denominated Firestone.
It is very soft when first brought from the quarry, but hardens
in the air, to which it should lie exposed several months before
It is placed in the building.
The chalk of this part of the Surrey hills bums into excellent
lime, and is in great esteem for any work which requires mortar
of more than the ordinary strength. To fiicilitate the convey-
ance of these productions of this district, a rail-road has been
formed, which opens a direct communication between this place
ai^d (he metropolis by Croydon and Wandsworth.
In Merstham Church is a curious font, consisting of a square
block of well wrought and highly polished Sussex marble, with
a sufficient excavation to dip an infant conveniently. It is lined
with lead, apd elevated on a pillar of tlie same stone : at each
comer was a small round pillar, but of these only one remains.
Over the communion-table is placed, by way of altar-piece, a
very large print on niite sheets, about six feet high and dye wide,
representing the Last Supper. It is a French engraving^ and is
well executed.
JUersthapi Place, a spacious mansion, was erected by the late
WiUiam
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Id4 81TRRBT.
William Jolliffe/ Esq.* irho parchased the manor in 1788. It i^
now the residence of his son, Hylton Jolliffe, Esq.
A lane in this parish, which runs in the direction of the chalk*
hills, and was the coarse pursued hy the pilgrims resorting from
the west to Becket's shrine at Canterbury, still retains the name
of Pilgrim's-Iane.
Merstbam has long been celebrated for very productive apple-
orchards. That belonging to the rectory, though little more
than two acres, has yielded above 800 bushels in a year.f
In the parish of Newdigate is Ewood, a mansion formerly
■unrounded by a park of 600 acres, in which is a piece of flowing
water of sixty acres. This estate, forming part of the ancient
possessions of the Earls of Warren, Surrey, and Arundel, having
been separated from them for several centuries, and passed through
many hands, was at length bought by the present Duke of Nor-
Mk, who, in 1807, began to erect a new mansion near Ewood^
on the brow of an eminence commanding a delightful prospect
of the park aud water, and of the beautiful wooded heights of
Dorking and the adjacent country. It is intended by his Grace
for an occasional residence, being at an equal distance from the
metropolis and Arundel Castle.
NuTFiELD is noted for producing fullers' earth of a superior
quality to that from any other part of England. There are three
pits in this parish, and one in Reigate, from which are annually
dog between two and three thousand tons.
About fifty years ago a quantity of brass Roman coins of the
Lower Empire were found in this parish in an earthen vessel^
which waa broken by the wheel of a carriage in the highway
leading from the village towards Ham.
In
M r« Jolliffe was representative in Parliament for Petersfield in Hamp-
shire, and died in consequence of an accidental fall into bis cellar from a
door which had been left open, in ISOS, aged fifty-eight. His son, George^
a lieutenant in the royal navj, fell on board the Bellerophon in the memo*
rable battle of the Mile, Aogost 1, 1798, at the early age of twenty yeaiai
t Haxwing's Surrey, IL 255« note.
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WBSXr. 156
In the ohurch is an altar-tomb, under a pointed areh in aniche
in the seiitii wall of the chancel, which mnst be of high antiquity.
At one end is a star with eight rays, and round the edge of the
npper stone the following inscription, in antique capitahi, cut in
at a considerable distance from one another: Sire Thomas de
Roldkam: gUi: id: Deux de: sa: akne: mft: mercL The
stone has been broken, and one part of the name is fixed in the
pa?ement.
The Hundred of Dorking,
as it is now denominated from its chief town, was formerly known
by the name of Wotton.. It is bounded on the west by Black-
heath ; on the north by Copthom ; on the east by Reigate, and
on the south by the county of Sussex. This hundred was
granted, 18 James I. together with those of Blackheath and
Woking, to Sir Edward Zouch, and passed in the same manner to
Earl Onslow, the present proprietor of the franchise. It lies in
the deanery of Stoke, and comprehends the parishes of Abinger^
Capel, Dorking, Ockley, and Wotton.
Dorking,
twenty-four miles distant from London, is situated near the riyer
Mole, in a sandy vale, sheltered on the north by the ridge of
chalky down, which runs across this county, and on the great
road from London to Brighthelmstone. It consists of three
streets, the East, West, and South. The greater part of the
town is clean, and well watered from the spriugs that abound
here. It has a plentiful weekly market on Thursday, and a fair
on the eve and day of the feast of the Ascension. These are re-
corded among the claims of John Earl of Warren, in 1279, and
were probably granted to one of his ancestors. Here are two
small streams, which joining before they reach the town, form
the rivulet known by the name of Pipbrook> thalmns parallel
with
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IM tVREST.
.trith the town on the north side, and empties itielf into the H6le
under Box-hill. In 1801^ the pariih of Dorking contained d83
hooflee, and 3068 inhabitants.
At this place is a breed of fowls with fiye claws, well known to
the Iiondon poaherers by the appellation of Dorking luwls; one
sort is perfeetly'white, and another of partridge colour. Coln-
mella» in his Husbandry, describes fowls answering^ to these, so
that they are conjectured to have been originally brought hither
by the Romans,
From the Domesday Survey thb manor i^pears to have been
one of those which had been held by Edith, Queen of Edward the
Confessor, but was then in tiie possession of the Conqueror,
After its alienation from the Crown, the Earls of Warren are the
first sobjects in whose hands we find it. From that family it de-
scended to the Fitz-Alans, Earls of Arundel, and on the decease
of Thomas, the last earl without issue, in 1415^ his estates were
divided among his three sisters. On this partition Reigate and
Dorking were carried by Elizabeth the eldest, into the ftmily of
the Mowbrays, Dukes of Norfolk. The latter becoming extinct
on the death of Anne, who was married to the Duke of Y<Nrk,
the second son of Edward IV. the manor of Dorking was divided
amoDg the descendants of the four d^iughters of the above-men-
tioned Elizabeth Fitz-Alan. Three of the four "parts socm be-
came united in the illustrious house of Norfolk ; and the other
fourth was purchase of the late Sir Henry St. John Mildmay,
Bart, by the present duke, who thus became possessed of the
whole, after it had been divided nKure than three hundred years.
Among the peculiar usages of this manor it may be remarked,
that the custom of Borough English prevails here, by which the
youngest son inherits the copyhold.
The assizes for the county appear to have been held at this place
in 1699, but on what occasion we are not informed. The Sessions
used to be held here occasioually in the 7oton-/fa//, which stands
in the middle of the High Street; but this has not been the cas^
for many years,
Ths
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■ifkttkt. 109
The Ckmrck, dedicated to fit Harlin, is a neal^ commodioiui^
and stdbstaatial bnilding, conBistiDg of a naye^ with north and
south aisles, and a chancel divided from the fonner by a transept,
in the centre of which is a low embattled tower, containing eight
bells with a dock and chimes. The whole is built of the ordi*
nary stone and flints of the coonty, excepting the upper part
.of the tower, which is composed of sqaared stone, or chalk. It is
famished with galleries, and the north end of the transept serves
for a vestry and school. Against the north wall of the chancel,
m the chvrch-yard, is a plain brid^ building, inclosing a yaalt
belonging to the manor of East Beechworth, and near it, adjoin-
ifig to the north transept, a handsome maosolenm, of Portland
stone, erected by Mr. Talbot of Chert Park ; whose arms ara
witiiia a pediment at the end, eapported by Tnscan columns. The
total length of this church is 127 feet, the breadth of the nave and
aisles being SQ, and of the chancel 19}.
Among other monuments in this church are those of Abraham
Tucker, Esq. of Beechworth Castle, anther of a metsphysical
work, intituled The Light of Nature pursued, who died in 1774^
aged 69; and of that eminent scholar and critic Jeremiah Mark-
land, with an inscription from the pen of his friend Dr. Heber-
den. Mr. Harkland was bom in 1693, and during the last
twenty-two years of his life resided in the utmost privacy, at
Milton Court, a farm-house near Dorking, where he died, in 1776.
Here also are interred the great-grandlather, grandfitther. and first
wife, of the present Duke of Norfolk.
The Stane Street, or Roman road from Arundel to Dorking, is
sud to have passed through thia church-yard, and to have been
frequently- discovered there by persons employed in digging the
graves. In the parish of Ockley, to the south of Dorking, this
road, for the spaee of two miles, is still used as a highway, under
the name of Stane Street Causeway. The Magna Britannia^
speaking of this part of it, describes the road as formed of flints
and pebbles, and says, that because there are no materiiils of the
kind neav it, the common people ascribe the woik to infernal
agency.
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IflS SURKBT.
agency, and call it the DeriPa Causeiray. It ia in aome plaeei
ten yards broad, and a yard and a half deep.
At the west end of the town is a mansion called from the na-.
ture of the soil Sonde Place, the ancient residence of the family
of Sondes, and from which, in all probability, they took their
name. In later times the lands belonging to this mansion bave
been parcelled oat among different ownen^ bat the greater part
of the estate, together with the house, being'porchased by Edward
Walter, Esq. of Bory Hill, in this pansh, descended with his
other property to his only daughter, the wife of the late Lord
Yiscount Grifflston.
In the south street is another old tenement, called Shnde* Court
Lodge, formerly belonging to the same ^mily.
It seems very doubtful, whether, as some pretend, there was
ever a^castle at this place; at least it is not known that any re«
cords which make mention of one are extant. Aubrey indeed
speaks of two castles, by the names of Denham and Blackhawes,
but there is nothing that can be construed into a tradition r^
lating to either of them, except that in a field belonging to
Richard Fuller, Esq. at Westcott; in this parish, is a square piece
of ground, containing about a quarter of an acre> enclosed by a
high bank, evidently artificial, which u called Castle BatUc, and
may be the remains of some military earth-work, to which one
of the names mentioned by Aubrey might perhaps have been
given.
Dorking is surrounded by beantifhl hills, commanding views of
such magnificence as not to be excelled by any inland county in
the kingdom. That the advantages of these situations have not
been overlooked, the numerous mansions and villas in its imme*
diate neighbourhood abundantly evince.
Shrub Hill, at the east end of the town, is a commodious and
pleasant villa, the residence of Lord Leslie, eldest son and heir ap-
parent of the Countess of Rothes, by George Raymond Evelyn»
Esq. His lordship is colonel of the Surrey yeomen cavalry, for
whom he has printed a very useful book of instructions.
Weit
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SORRlKt* tM
JFesi Seeckworth, an old mansioo, fttandiog on the site of an
ancient castle, occupies an eminence on the banks of the Mole*
At the General Survey, the manor belopging to it temed part of
the possesions of Richard de Tonhridg;e, and afterwards of the
EarU of Arundel. In 1377, John Fitz-Alan, second son of
Richard, Earl of Arundel, who died the preceding year, having
snccceded to this estate, had licence to imbattle his manor house
Iiere« A ffimilar licence was granted in 1449, to Thomas Brown.
Esi{. io whose possession this estate then was; he had permission
also to impark his manor, to have free warren in the same; like*
wise Court Leet and Court Baron, and an annual affiiir on
Tuesday in Whitsnn<>week. In the &mily of Brown, of which
Ambrose was, in 1627, created a baronet, this estate continued
vested till the death of Sir Adam« in 1690, when it devolved to
his sole daughter and heir, married to William Fenwidc, Esq. who
puOed down the greater part of the castle, and turned the re-
mainder into a dwelling'-hottse. It is now the property of Henry
Peta^ Esq. viho has made great improvements, and enlarged
the estate by various purchases. The park is remarkable for the
noUe Umber with which it is adorned. The enter park is skirted
with chesnnt-trees of very large dimensions, and the inner, at the
extremity of which the house is situated, has two fine avenues,
the one of elms, the other, 350 yards in length, composed of a
triple row of limes of extraordinary si^ and height.
The Downsjt which rise to a considerable elevation from the
opposite bank of ^ the Mole, are finely chequered with yew and
box trees of great anUquity, which form a scene not less vene*
table than pleasing. Of the latter, in particular, there was
formerly such abundance, that the part of the Downs lying eon«
lignoua to the stream, and within ilie precinct of the manor of
West Beechworth, has always been known by the name of Bo»
HUt; it commands an extensive view into the neighbouring
counties* Various have been the disquisitions concerning the
antiquity of this plantation, which, for any thing that appears
to the contrary, may have been coeval with the soil. The late
•Sir
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160 ^iriiREt.
Sir Hent*y MiUmay, while in poaseasion of this estate^ soM-tha
box upon Box Hill for 160001.; the purchaser was to be al-'
lowed fourteen years to cat it down. In 1802^ forty tons were
cnt^ and from the great quantity whieh has thus been broaght
into the market, and the limited use to which it can be applied,
this wood has (alien more than fifty per cent It will not now
bring more than five or six pounds per ton.
At Dipden, south-eastward of Dorking, was an ancient man-
sion, f<Hrmerly the residence of the Honourable Charles Howard
of Greystoke, great grandflEithef' of the present Duke of Norfolk,
on whom three-fourths of the manor of Dorking devolved among
other estates by the settlement of his fiitfaer, the Earl of ArundeL
In this spot, adapted by its solitude to study and contemplation,
the ingenious proprietor, by an elegant and well-judged distribu-
tion of plantations of different kinds, created a scene of exqui-
site beauty aud tranquillity, where he amused his leisure hours
with experiments in the different branches of natural philosophy.
His iavourite employment was the study of chemistry, for the
more commodious prosecution of which he erected laboratories,
and in subterraneous grots formed for the purpose, had furnaces
of different kinds, the flues of which in some places are yet to
be seen. Among other works which he carried on here, was a
passage through the hill, designed to open a prospect of the
vale of Sussex to the south : but the earth having one morning
fallen in while the labourers were absent at breakiiist, the project
was relinquished. He died in 1720, and was buried, as we have
seen, in Dorking church. On this spot the late Duke of Norfolk
erected a large and handsome house, wh;ch, in 1790, was sold by
the present duke to Sir William Barrel, Bart On his death, in
1796, this mansion devolved to his eldest son. Sir Charles, and is
now by purchase the residence of Thomas Hope, Esq.
Chert Park, formerly called the Vineyard, was, in 1746, pui^
chased by Henry Talbot, Esq. fourth son of Dr. William Talbot,
Bishop of Durham, and youngest surviving brother of Lord Tal-
bot, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain, To tliat gentleman
9 thia
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891UT. 161
tUi place oilei ikt imftvfemokU under iriiidi hUnmrnfftun s
he enlarged the ntanaion, whkh coomands a pleaaant and exten-
aive Tiew to the south, and through the adjaeent groanda, into- a
heantifol park. He died in 1784, when this eatate deTohred to
hia only daughter, the wife of Thomas Cornewall, Esq. Thai
lady, who snrriTed her hnshand, left this place at her decease, in
1802, to her kinsman. Sir Charles Talbot, who makes it hia resi«>
dence. The house, a plain white building, lies low : the park ia
not extensiTe, bnt the surface ia strikingly diTeiaified, and planted
with great taate.
Denby's, or Denbigh*s, was an ordinary fiurm-house when pnr^
chased in 1 734, by Mr. Jonathan Tyers, the contriver of \ anxhall
Gardens. It ia situated on the very summit of the ranga of down,
called Ranmer, which bounds the pariah on the northo^weat, and
commands one of the roost extensive and delightlhl prospects that
can be conceived. The improvements introduced at this place
by Mr. Tyers were various and striking ; bnt in a taste so totally
different from what he bad exhibited at Vauxhali, as to authorise
the coiijecture,that he intended this later design lor a contrast to
the former. Here every thing tended to impress the mind with
serious thoughts : the principal scene was a wood of about eight
acres, ithith he denominated H Penserow* It was interaected
with many pleasing walks, and in the centre was a small temple
loaded with inscriptions of the most grave and solemn kind; while
a clock, concealed from the view, struck at the end of every
minute, and forcibly proclaimed the rapid flight of time. At a
little distance from the temple was an open building, on which
were two figures as large as life, designed by Hayman, and re^
presenting a Christian and an Unbeliever in their last moments ;
with a statue of Truth treading on a mask, and directing the
spectator's attention to those interesting objects. These grave
conceits, however, were done away by the Honourable Peter King,
fiither of the present Lord King, who, on the death of Mr. Tyers^
in 1767, purchased this place> which, in 1781, he again disposed
You XIV. M of
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1M 80REBt.
of toJttiMWkyte, Btq. By the kttor it wts soU, in 17B7,to
Joseph DeoQiaon, Eiq. the preseot pnyri^r.
On the tide of e cMtidaftble ettioenoe^ tdwiit three qoertcfs ef
e mile toiith-irest of Dorking, is Bury Hiil, erected hy B4mi
Welter, Eiq. who aecidentelly mw thie coootry, anil iras ■•
pleased with it» that he bought a small hrm, ealled Ohardhiirs^
vith oiUier panels of laud, and huilt this mansion. The emincaes^
en the south side of which it stands, was inelosed by him, frsm
the waste of the manor of Milton, and planted chiefly with Seoteh
firs, which, though not duly thinned, have grown well. The pro*
prietof gradually augmented his possessions here by sahseqnent
pnrehases^ i^Km which he formed plantations. At his death, in
1780, this estate devolved to his only daughter, the lady of the
late Viseeunt Grimston, and is now the property of G. Barclay,
Bsq.
The Rookery, on the hank of the little stream ef PiphrM^
was fennerly a farm-house, called Chert-gate Fann. It was some
time the propeity of Abraham Tucker, Esq. of Beechworth
Castle, of whom it was purchased in 17M, by Daniel Malthus,
Esq. This gentleman first took advantage of its beauties of
hill and dale, wood and water, and converted it into an elegant
seat, to which he gave the present appellation. In 1768, he sold
it to Richard Fuller, Esq. by whom it was considerably en-
larged, and left at his death, iu 1782, to his son, the present pro-
prietor.
About thi>ee miles and a half southward of Dorking, and in a
direct line to the Stane Street, is a considerable eminence, known
by the name of HcmstU Bury, that is the burg, hill, or fortress
on the Hemn SHge, or high road. The traces of this fortress,
are very apparent at this day ; being nearly of a circular form,
surrounded with a double trench, except on the south-east, south,
and south-west, where the precipice rendered it unnecessary ; and
incksing an area of eleven acres, one rood, and six perches^
having the principal entrance en the north-eact. Manning is in-
clined, from its circular form, to consider it as the woik of the
Danes;
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8UERBY. 1^
Danes ; and in that case, as tlie spot on which they encamped
previously to their defeat at Ockley^ in 651. In the adjoiniag
fields have heen found the heads of airows, made of flint, in the
Ibrm of a heart, and ahont an inch and a half in length. The
area of the camp was planted hy Mr. Walter, whose property it
was at his decease, with forest-trees of various kinds, intersected
by ayennes which open on different quarters, and exhibit many
beautiful and striking prospects of the country beueath.
OcKLEY is remarkable as the place where the Danes, who had
passed into Sarrey after sacking liondon, were defeated with
great slaughter by King Ethelwolf, and his son Ethelbald, or
Athelstan. The Saxon Chronicle places this engagement in
851 ; Leland, in his Collections, in 873, and Milton between 851
and 853.
It was formerly castomary in this parish, that if either of two
contracted parties died before marriage, the survivors planted
roses at the head of the grave of the deceased. This practice
was doubtless derived from the Romans, who, as well as the
Greeks, considered it a religious duty, and often in their wills
directed roses to be strewed and planted upon their graves, as ap*
pears by an old inscription at Ravenna, and another at Milan.
Hence Propertins has this expression—^/ tenerd poneret ossa
Rosd*, and Anacreon, speaking of it, says, that vex^oif dyi,ivEiv,
" it protects the dead/'
WoTTON, or WoDETON, formerly gave name to this hundred.
In this parish is Wotton House, wbicli since the time of Queen
Elizabeth has been the seat of a branch of the Evelyn family.
Much of the ancient house yet remains. The library on the north
side was built by Sir John Evelyn, who was created a baronet in
1713, and the drawing-room in the south front was. added by
8ir Frederic, the late proprietor. The table mentioned by the
author of Sylva, consisting of one plank, now shortened in its
length, but five feet two inches in diameter, is yet preserved.
M 2 The
• Lib. I. £leg. 8.
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164 SURREY.
The ipvk has been many years applied to ihe move useful pwposes
of farming.
This house iras the birth-place of John Eteltn, the cele-
brated author of Syha, His fiither resided at Wottoa, where he
maintained the genuine character of a country gentleman. He
was the last sheriff of the counties of Surrey and Sossck jointly,
in 1634; on which occasion he attended tiie judges with 116
servants in green satin doublets, and cloth cloaks, guarded witii
silyer galloon, as were the brims of their hats, which were
adorned witli white feathers. These men carried new jaTelins ;
and two trumpeters bore banners, on which were blaxoned his
arms. There were, besides, thirty gentlemen, to whom he was
uncle, or great-uncle, all clad in the same oolours, who caiae
with several others to do him honour. His son John, who suo-
ceeded to the estate on the death of his elder brother George,
was bom in 1620. He was educated at the school at Lewes, in
1637, entered of the Middle Temple, and the same year ad*
mitted a fellow commoner of Baliol College, Oxford. Having
borne arms for a short time in favonr of Charles 1. he obtained
the king's permission to travel ; and in 1649, set out on the tour
of Europe, from which he did not return till 1651. He has left
a minute accopnt of all that he thought worthy of observation
in his travels; and nothing seems to have escaped him. During
his absence he married at Paris the daughter, and at length heir
of Sir Richard Brown, then the king's ambassador in France,
and by this match became possessed of Sayes Court in Deptford.
In 1662, when the Royal Society was established, he was ap«
pointed one of the first Fellows and Council. He was a constant
attendant, and considerable benefactor, to this Society; as, besides
his various communications, he gave them some curious Anatomi-
cal Tables, purchased by him at Padua, and procured of Lord
Henry Howard the Arundel Library for the Society. Of the
same nobleman, whose grandfather Thomas, Earl of Arundel, had
been the collector of those curiosities, he likewise obtained the
Arundel marbles for the University of Oxford, by wjiich he was
t m
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SITBRET. 165
in eoiueqaeiice presented with the degree of IX. D. In 1685.
he was one of the commissioners for executing the office of Lord
Privy Seal during the absence of the Earl of Clarendon ; and
alter the accession of William III. was appointed Treasurer of
Greenwich Hospital. Haying succeeded his brother in the Wot-
lon estate^ he made that place his residence, and there died, in
1706, in his eighty-sixth year. He is interred with many of his
family, in the church at Wotton, Of his publications, not fewer
than twenty-six in number, a full account is given in Aubrey
in the Biographia Britannica, and in Dr. Hunter's edition of the
most celebrated of them, the Syiva, published in 1776. He was
an artist as well as an author; and etched at Paris, 1649, five
views of places which he had drawn between Rome and Naples,
with a frontispiece.
Leith Hill, which runs from east to west, is by far the high-
est ground in this county. From Wotton House the ascent is
gradual over a graveUy common for about four miles to the edge
of the hill, when it descends precipitately into the deep clay
country, which continues in nearly a level to the foot of the
8outii Downs in Sussex. It commands a view not only of all this
county, and of the sea, through an opening in the l^uth Downs,
called Beding Gap, but over the northern range of chalk-hills
into Berkshire and Oxfordshire; to the west, into Hampshire,
and perhaps into Wiltshire, and to the north-east over Box Hill
to London.
heitk Hill Place, on the southern slope of this hill, is a small
but elegant mansion, which was altered and brought into its pre-
sent form by Lieutenant-general Folliott, who rose by his merit
from the ranks. On his death, in 1748, this estate was pur-
chased by Richard Hull, Esq. who, in 1766, with the permis-
sion of Sir John Evelyn, built a tower on one of the points of
Leith Hill, from which the sea is visible through an opening in
the Sonth Downs. Here he fitted np a handsome room to en-
able the curious to enjoy the extensive prospect at their ease,
M3 and
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166 •9ftUT.
and placed a aloiie over the door in Uie west fronts with thia
(now inapplicable) inscription :
lit temm andiqM bMteai
Vidns ▼Mt4ir
Hac turns de looge fpectaliilif
Sumptibiu Bichardi Hall
£x mgro Leith HUl Place ikmiig'*^
B^gnante Georgio Tertio
Anno 1>om. MDOCLXVL
Eitnicta hit,
OblectamcDlo noa tmk mAwn
SedVicMorMi
StOnuunm*
In this tower Mr. Hull was by his own paiticnlat desire iiw
tened tAer his deaths and a marble slab fixed agaimsl the umor
wall^ with an inscription stating^ that he was a native of Bdstol,
bad served nuiay years in the parliament of Ireland^ and Ihred on
intimate terms with Pope, Trenchard, Bishop Berkley^ and othsc
eminent characters. He died in 1772, in his eighty«>third year«
Soon after his death his hooae and property here were s<^ by his
nephew, and heir to Mr. Thompson, an Oporto merchant; but ss
no provision was made for keeping the tower in repair,, it was
wholly neglected, idle persons broke in, destroyed the staircasss^
floors, and windows, and left the place a a^re shell. About
1795, this estate was purchased by William Philip Perris, Es^
who resides at Tanhnrst in this parish. This genttemao ka»
thoroughly repaired the tower; wad by raising it sooia feet higher
has rendered it still more conspicttoua as a sea-nAsk; but the
lower part is now completely walUd ap, so as to fimok oae solid
mass, and to deprive the curioua visiter oi the pleaaaie whisk its
founder designed to afibrd.
Holmhwry is a large camp, on the eastern declivity^ noai the
Hprnnmit of a considerable eminence to which irt gi V4is. ttame> o» the
confines of the parishes of Shire, i^whnrst, Abiager, and C^kley.
It is a work of very irregular form, having an entrance near the
north-
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•iFBRSY, lev
Mrth-wcii angle, tnd aiMlher aear the soath-easl; and is fortifidi
ivith a 4oable trench, except on the east, soath, and soath-weM^
where the precipice rendered it unaecesBary^ and whiare, on that
account, it has but a single one. The area within is ei§^t acres,
three roods, thirteen poles. This camp, supposed to be 6f R^'
man constmction, is about two miles from the Stane Street road,
and about as &r in a direct line west of the camp called Hantiit*
Awry.
Tab Hundesp of Copthorne and Effinohau
is flitoated nearly in the eetttfe tff the conntjr, having Ae hw-
dreds of Croydon and Reigate 06 the east, Wokitfg on the west,
Emley Bridge and Croydon on the north, and Reigate kuA Dork-
ing on the sooth. It Is in the deanery of Ewell, and compre-
hends the parishes of Ashted, Bninstead, Great Bookhan, LHtle
BookhaiS, Cfaesi^tfgton, Effingham, Epsom, Ewell, Fetcfaate,
Hedley, Letherhead, Mickleham, Newdigate, and Walton on the
SilL
This handred, with its jurisdiction and the pritileges belongr
ing to it, was granted by the charter of Charles I. in 1638, to the
Corporation of Ktiq^n.
EWSLL
is the only place ftt tfaitf hundred that has the name, but very
little of th^ appearance, of a market on Thursday. That mar-
kets were held here in the middle of the 17th century appears
by the following entry in the Parish Register :«-'' Matthew
Mountagew of Cobham, and Agatha Turner of Leatherhead, their
agreement of marridge was three market-dayes pubHshed in the
market of Ewell, and they were married by Juistis Marsh of
Darkin, the 3d of July, 1654/' A few years Since a small mar*
ket-house was still standing at the intersection of the roads to
London and Kingston ; but it was removed for the purpose of
widening them. Near the spot occupied by it rises a spring of
bsBatiM clear water^ which soon forms a streasi salkd Hogsmill
M 4 RWer,
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168 SURREY.
RiTcr, and in its progrenr to the ThameB turns seTeral corn and
gunpowder-mills.
Tbe Church, dedicated to St Mary, is boilt of flints, inter-
mixed with chalk, and has a tower of the same, but finished
with brick-worfc, and fear small pinnacles. It contains some
corioDs monnments of considerable antiquity. Among those of
more modem date are the tombs of Sir Richard Bolkeley, Bart*
and his lady, who both died in 1710, in their 47ih year; Sir
William Lewen, Alderman and Lord Mayor of London, in 1717,
w4io died in 1721, aged sixty-five; and Sir Richard and Lady
Glyn, and their son, Richard Lewen, major in the 81st r^i>
meat, who dicxl in St Domingo, in 1795, aged twenty-five. Sir
Richard Glyn was Lord Mayor of London in 1758, and repre-
sented that city in t^o piprjiaments. He was created a baronet
in 1759; and at his decease, in 1773, was member for Coventry,
president of Bridewell and Bethlem Hospitals, and vice-president
pf tbe Artillery Company.
At
* Sir Ricbacd Balkel«y ponesied considerable property, and iras a man
•f good sense and learning ; bot became entangled with a party of Frencb
entlmsiatts, who pretended to prophesy, and so embarrassed his afiain that
he was obliged to sell his estate. Aabrey says that he prottitoted his pen in
their defence, but does not give the title of any book written by him. In his
person he was very short and crooked, and expected under the new dispense*
tion to be inade straight and handsome ip a miraculous manner ; but to his
great disappointment he di^d before the miracle was completed. After the
first prosecution of these enthusiasts, and when Mr. Emms, one of their follow-
ers, had not risen from tlie dead, on a particular day, aocording to their pre-
diction, gOTemment intended to proceed more vigorously against them.* Or-
ders were giveo to tbe AUomey General to prosecute Sir Richard Bolkeley,
and others who were ringleaders in the affair. Before any farther measures
were pursued. Lord Oodolphiii and Mr. Hartley sent a gentleman to Pr.
Cttlamy to consult him on the subject. The doctor, after maturely consider-
hig tbe matter, gave it as his opinion, that it would be best for the government
to remain quiet, and not offer the least molestation to the new prophet or his
abettors. In consequence of this advice these enthusiasts soon soidt into con-
tempt, and dwindled away. (BIS.JoomalofDr.Calamyinhblife, Biog.
Piit. second edit, lit 144.)^
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SURREY. 169
At thifl place was born, in 1562» Richard Corbet. He wat
educated at Westminster School, and thence remoTed to Christ
Church, Oxford. Ue afterwards became an eminent preacher,
and chaplain to James I. by whom he was promoted, in 1620,
to the Deanery of Christ Church, being at the same time Ticar
of Cassington, near Woodstock, and prebendary of Salisbury. In
1628, he was consecrated Bishop of Oxford, from which see h*
was, in 1633, translated to the see of I^orwich*.
Epsom
is a lai^ge and remarkably pleasant TilUge, on the road from
London to Dorking and Guildford. It had formerly a weekly .
market on Friday, now discontinued. Towards the conclusion
of the 17th, aud the beginning of the last century, Epsom was
a place of fashionable resort, on account of its mineral waters^
The spring, situated on the common, half a mile west of the Til-
lage, was the first of the kind discovered in England. It was
accidentally found in )618, or, according to another account,
about the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign. Its beneficial proper-
ties soon became generally known, and began to attract strangers,
for whose accommodation the lord of the manor erected a shed,
and inclosed the pond formed by the spring. About 1640, the
&me of these waters had spr^ into France, Germany, and other
countries ; and from them were prepared salts, for which, though
fM>ld at fire shillings an ounce, the demand was greater than
could be supplied. About 1609, the concourse of fiunilies and
fi>reignera resorting to the well was so great that Mr. Paridmrst,
then lord of the manor, enlarged the first building, by erecting a
ball-room, planted a long walk of elms fi-om the London road
and avenues leadmg in different directions. The village in-
creased, many lodging-houses were erected, and yet the place
iOouM not contain all the company; so that neither Bath nor
Tanbridge exceeded it in splendour, or could boast more distin*
guished
• See Beoitfiei, V<a. W Norfolk, p. 51, at
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190 SOEABT.
goished ▼Luton, About tho begiimiiig of the lati centoy tiMe
waters gradually lost tkeir reputatioD, through the knavsrj of
one Leyingston, an apothecary, who having purchased a piece
of land here, boilt a large bonse, with an assembly-iooni, and
sunk a well. By means of concerts, halb, and other diremons^
he contriyed to allure the company from the OUL Well ; and at
length getting the lease of the latter into his hands he locked ap
the place. The new water, howeyer, was found not to posses
the virtues of the old, and Epsom began to be deserted. At the
expiration of the lease Mr. Parkhurst repaired the buildings of
the old well ; and if the town was not so much yisited by stran-
gers, it was at least frequented by the neighbouring gentry, who
had a public breakfast here every Monday in the summer. This
practice was at length wholly superseded by the new &shion of
sea-bathing. In 1804, the old bniidittg was pulled down, and
a dweUing-hoose erected on its site. The well is preserved.
The manor of Ebbisham belonged at the time of the Domesday
fturvey to the Abbey of Chertsey, the monks of which were
licensed to have a park here, shut up whenever they pleased.
This is supposed to be what is now called Woodcote Park, aboift
a mile southward of the village. It was long the residence of the
propnetors of the nnnor, till given, towards the conclusion of the
17th century, by Mrs. Evelyn to Lord Balthnoie. The last pos-
sessor of that family led a dissolute lilb, add in March, 1768,
was tried at Kingston Assizes for a rape on Sarah Wbodeock^
a milliner, whom he had sent to his house here. He narrowly
escaped being convicted ; soon sfterwards he sold his estate at
Ikte place, went abroad, and died at Naples, in 1771 *. Tbe
I • B<«pectu>stM«Bobl«m>nl&efolk>wingansodot«isresHmissriimMi
I periodical fwUicatkio, iutkoled Ottm i^WHia, Ck ITU^ (Put IV. p. 45b)
I <« Lord Baltimure, who pablnbed Remarh m CmUntmtfU mU the TM%
tnv«Ifing. tb«^ as he said, he might not koev wheie lie iho«U be beiied. In
tH% be timveUed vitfa ciglit wonci^ a pb jacias^ sad two blsdE% wbo wcm
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SVEEST. 171
BHUisioa and paik of Woodcote were purchased by the late Lewis
Tessier^ Esq. to whose &mily they now belong.
HartonPark, which was also the property of Lord Baltiinore,
is the residence of James Trotter, Esq. who was high sheriff of the
county in 1798.
Durdans is said by Aubrey to have been built by the Earl
of Berkeley with ib/^ materiids of Noosttdi palaee, when it was
demolished by the Duebess of Ckveland, and is orroneoasly
stated by him to have been the scene of the intrigue between
Lord Grey of Werk and his wife's sister; which was not carried
on at Durdans, kit at another boose of the Bevkeleys at the
west end of the town, where the wofkbonse now stands. This
first stmeture, which was once inhabited by the finther of his
present majesty, being destroyed by fire, a new mansion was
erected by Mr. Dalbiae, and is new the residence ef Charles Black*
jnan, Esq.
In the Ckmrek is interred Sur Boberl» eldest son of the cele-
brated lawyer. Sir Edward Coke, who died in 1663, and Robert
Coke, Esq. whose ftther was the sixth son of the Lord Chief Jii»-
tice* Here are several monuments by Flaxroan; asMug the rest
one kf thai eminent scholar the Rev. John Pfeffkhaist, author of
» GredL and Hebrew Lexieen, who resided at Efsom, and died in
1797, in his stxty-Mutb year. On the toari>-stone of one of the
name famity, in the chnrch-yard, ia this whimsical hiseriptioa:
Hctelietbthsi
Of hoDcst Cbailu Pai kliatst
Wbo ue*re could dance or sing.
But always was true to
His Sovereign Lord the Ring,
Charles the First.
Ob. Dec. XX. MDCCIV. wtMt LXXXVL
Here
«atn»ted with the superintendence of bis little seraglio. With the assistance
of his Esculapius, he made some singular eiperiments upon bis Houris; feed*
jng nch af war* inclined to be fat on acid aliments alone, and those of a
oontraiy
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172 SUEftET.
Here is an Ahu^kause, and also a Charity Schoel; and on t&e
neighbouring down is a fonr*mile course, where the annaal races,
held three days before the Whitsnn-weefc, are nnmeionsiy at-
tended.
Letherhead,
a small town, on a rising ground, on the esst bank of the Mole^
bad anciently a mariLet, which has long been discontinued. It
consists of four streets intersecting in the centre, and containing
several good SMnstons. From the opposite hill in the road from
Guildford, the church with its lofty tower rising above the houses
and the buildings which appear interspersed in a rich wood of
trees, form one of those striking views that all travellers of taste
view with delight.
A htfge house in the South Street has been called the mansion-
house. Here Lord Chancellor Jeffisryes resided, in 1688, when
a daughter of his was buried at this place, as appears by the Re-
gister. It was rebuilt, about 1710, by l>r. Akehurst, a physidatt,
and passed to General Gore, whose female heir married the late
WilUam Wade, Esq. long master of the ceremonies at Bath and
Brighton. The Ckwrck-koute, so called from its adjoining the
church-yard, though never connected with the rectory or vicarage^
is of timber frame at least as old as the reign of Elizabeth. It
belonged to Philip Dacre8,.Esq. from whose heir it pused to tbe
Gores. The Rectory -kimie, at a small distance from the south
end of the town, was much improved and ornamented with plan*
taiions, by Mr. Hague, about forty years ago. It is now tbe re-
sidence of J. R. Whitelbord, Esq. Nearer to Hickleham is Gilh;
bom's Grove, pleasantly situated, belonging to Ur. Boulton, and
now inhabited by his son Captain Boulton.
Near
contrary disposition, with milk, soaps* voA nntritioas diet On bis wnML with
this retinue at VieDna, tbe inspector of the poliee begged to be informed
which of the eight ladies was his wife. He retomed this measagej that " he
was an Bnglisbman, and wherever he was calked to accovnt aboot his mar-
liage, he immediately left that place, uolesa an opportuutj was affoided hio^
ofhouogitoot.''
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8i;ftuY« 173
Kear the bridge ie h email pBblio-hoii6e» which, to jodge from
lie appearance, may be the same in which Eleanor Ramming
eold the ale celebrated by Skelton, poet laoreat to Henry VII»
and VIII. It ia of Umber, with overhanging chambers, the roof
still covered with Sussex slate, formerly much nsed in this
county for that purpose when the builders had plenty of timber
to support its weight.*
The Church is an ancient structure, consisting of a nave and
two usles, with a north and south transept. In the centre of
the latter was Aperderley's chauntry, inclosed with neat Gothic
carved open wunscoting of oak, the greater part of which still
remains. The nave and aisles are of the coarse parochial archi*
tecture in use about the middle of the thirteenth century, with
lancet arches, and circular or octangular pillars. This was the
original church. When the priory and convent of Leeds obtained
the impropriation about 1346, they rebuilt and added the tower,
transept, and chancel. These are all in the style of that age, as
are the windows, divided by mullions, with ornamented intersec-
tions in the heads. In the chancel, near the altar, are three
arcades, consisting of subsellia and a piscina. The former are
not graduated as usual, and were not intended for three priests,
but for the Augustine canons of Leeds, when they should make a
visitation. A very general repair of the church took place at the
commencement of the last century, when the interior was mo-
dernized.
In
* Skelton, tnd other courtiera, probably used thtt house when the kmg
was at Nonsuch. He entitles his poem, " The Tunning of Eljnor Rum-
ming, the lanoas ale-wife of England ;" and savs that her wonning (dwel-
ling) was '' in a certain stede besjde Lederhede." The wood •cot of her,
giten in Skeltou's poems printed for J. King, 1761, 8to. has been eagerly
songbt after by coUectors. It has this inscription :
When Skelton wore the laareL crown.
My ale put hU the ale-wives down.
Granger properly describes it as the portrait of an lIUfaTored old woman.
Her descendants appear from the Register to have continued here more than
a century iatcr*
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174 SCTftSCT.
Ill this clmreh is interred Sir James Wisluut, who attained to
the rank of admiral in 1 70S, hot was dismissed the serrice ia
1716 ; with a long Latin inscription hy his brother, the lord pro-
Tost of Edinburgh. He died in 1733, aged 74*. Here, too,
are memorials for Lieutenant-General Francis Langston, who died
in 1714, aged 60; Mary, wife of the Hon. Brigadier-General
Thomas Pagett, who died commander in chief of the British
forces at Mahon in Minorca, about two months after his wife,
in 1740; and Lieutenant General Humphrey Gore, Governor
of Kinsale, and Colonel of the King's own Regiment of Dra-
goons, who died in 1739, in his 69th year. Here also is in*
terred Harriet Mary Cbolmondeley, granddaughter of George
Earl Cbolmondeley, who, in 1806, passing through Letherhead
in a barouche, with her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales
and Lady Sheffield, to Norbury Park, was thrown with them
out of the carriage at the comer opposite the Swan Inn, and
killed on the spot.
At this plaoe is a brick bridge of fourteen arches over the
Mole between eighty and one hundred yards in length, and
twenty feet wide within the walls.
Not far from the town is Randalls, the seat of Sir John Cog«
hill, Bart which stands on the bank of the Mole in a park of
sixty acres; and Thomcroft, a handsome new mansion, erected
after a design of Sir Robert Taylor, by the uncle of Henry
Boulton, Esq. the present proprietor. It is situated on the banks-
of the Mole^ on a manor which has belonged to Merton College,
Oxford, ever since its original foundation, and has always been
the residence of gentlemen as lessees of that society.
Aihted Purk, in the parish of the sane name, consists of
about 140 acres, inclosed with a brick wall. The church stands
in the parti ; and close to it was situated the old mansion, to
which the Earl of Arundel often resorted, and where Sir Robert
Howard received the Tisits of King Charles II. The table at
which
* His portrtit it among tbow of the adminib at Hampton Couti in which
ht it erroneously called Sir John H^UkearL
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iivutit; 174S
irfiich ht Vied fto diM mm preaervvd till tbe old hwiie mm pulled
4amu by Ridiard Howard* £w|« the present owner, who has Irailt
«D «legaat menMon $i a small distance from the former site. The
ataUes belooging to it are magnifioent
The Downs of Banbtjid are celebrated for the extensive views
which their elevated situation commands on every side, for the
salubrity of the air, and the e&cellence of the mutton that is fed
upon them.
Nork, the seat of Lord Arden, in this parish, was built by
Christopher Buckle, Esq. who died in 1769. BansUd Park,
which comprehended 160 acres of wood, has long since been dis-
parked, though some lands still retain the name. The mansion
of Great Burroughs which manor, with three others out of the
seven eontained in the parish, belongs to Christopher Bockle>
Esq. the sixth of that name in succession, appears to be of the
aga of James I. The present owner has erected a smaller house
on the edge of Bansted Heath, to which he has given the name
of Little Bwrrougk, where he now resides.
There is a tradition that Great Burroogh House occupies the
site of a Roman fortification : but it is more probable that it may
stand on that of one of the many barrows which have been scattered
over the grounds and the adjacent downs. Gale, indeed, in his
Commentary on Antoninus, speaks of Burrough as one of those
places where garrisons were without doubt established from the
time of the first Roman victories. Their road firom Arundel cer«
tainly passed very near this spot in its course from Mickleham to
WoodcolCi
In the parish of Qrkat Bookham is Eattwick House, for-
merly the residence of the Earls of Effingham, till it was settled
by Thomas, the second earl, as part of the jointure of bis conn-
tess, the daughter of William Beckford, Esq. In 1801 it was
sold to JasMa Laurel, Esq. who altered tbe house, and covered
the brick front with stucco. It is surrounded by a paik of near
400 acres.
Bookham Grove was originally a small cottage fitted up for a
9 shooting-
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176 nUtY.
Ahooting-box by the late General ThonM Howari. As tlie Ugh
itMid passed direotiy ia front of itp be procured its renoTal to die
present situation, leaving a kwn bdbre the hooae, which is sar*
rounded by a plantation, and has abont seventy acres on the sooth
and east aides. His son« Sir George Howard, sold it to Admi-
ral Brodrick, who built the present house. In 1775 it becane
the pn^erty of Viacount Downe ; after whose death, in 1980, his
lady made it her residence during the remainder of her li^
Polesdam, on the south side of this parish, was purchased of
Sir William Geary, Bart in 1804, by the tmslees of the Right
Hon. R. B. Sheridan* The grounds contain about 340 acresi
and contain a terraoe-walk 900 feet in length.
CuDDiMOTON, a small pariah in the northern extremity of the
hundred, now known by name only, afiords a striking instance of
the instability of human aplendor. Here Henry VIII. towaida the
conclusion of his reign, erected a palace of such extnordinsiy
magnificence, that it received the appellation of N<m»uck; but
in little more than a century this edifice was levelled with the
ground) and not a vestige now marks the spot on which it stood.
The old mansion-house and the church were demolished to give
place to the palace, to which were attached two parks, com-
prehending together about 1600 acres. The larger of these
was afterwards called Worcester Park, but from what circum-
stance is not known. Death prevented the king from completing
his plan ; the boose was left unfinished ; and Queen Mary would
have pulled it down to save farther expense, had not Henry,
Earl of Arundel, " for the love and honour he bare to his olds
maister,"* porcbased the estate, and accomplished the intentions
of the royal founder.
The magnificence of this mansion has been celebrated both by
native and foreign writers. Camden says : '' it is built with so
ranch splendoar and elegance, that it stands a monument of art;
and you would think the whole science of architecture exhausted
on this building. It has such a profusion of animated statues and-
finished
• MS. Life of the Earl of Arundel in the BriUsh Mojevm.
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IWBABY* 177
finkhed pieces of art^ riTalling the moDimieDte of aaoieot Rome
itsdf, that it justly has, and maintains its name, from thence/'
Hentzner, a German, who yisited England in the reign of Qneea
Eliaabeth, and of whose account a translation was printed by the
late Earl of Oiford at Strawberry-hill, speaks nearly in the same
tenoM of NonsQch, and gives some details respecting the grounds ;
but the most particnlar description is that contained in the Snnrey
taken by order of the Parliament in 1650. Nonsuch House is-
there said to be '' a fayer, stronge and large structure, or build-
ing of free-stone, of two large stories high, well wrought and bat-
tled with stone, and covered with blue slate, standing round a
court of 160 foote long, and 132 foote broad, pared with stone, com-
monly called the outward courte : a gate-house leading into the
outward courte aforesaid, being a building very strong and grace-
fril), being three stories high, leaded overhead, battled and tur-
retted in every of the four comers thereof; consisting also of
another very faire and curious structure, or building of two sto-
ries high, the lower story whereof is very good and well-wrought
free-stone, and the higher of wood, richly adorned and set forth,
and garnished with variety of statues, pictores, and other antte
formes of excellent art and workmanship, and of no small cost;
all which building lying almost upon a square, is covered with
blue slate, and incloseth one fiiire and large court of 137 foot
broad, and 1 16 foot long, all paved with free-stone, commonly called
the inner court. The inner court stands higher than the outward
court by an ascent of eight steps, leading therefrom through a
a gate-house of free-stone, three stories high, leaded and turret-
ted at the four corners. This last mentioned gate-house, stand-
ing between the inward and the outward court, is of most excellent
workmanship, and a very special ornament to Nonsuch House.
On the east and west comers of the inner court building are
placed two large and well built turrets of five stories, each of
them containing five rooms, the highest of which rooms, toge-
ther with the lanthoms of the same, are covered with lead, and
battled round with frames of wood covered with lead ; these tur-
Vol. XIV. N reto
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tIB SURMET.
reta command the prospect and view of both the paiia of Nob-*
such, and most of the cotmtry round about, and are the chief
omamenta of Nonaach House/'* The '' statues, pictures, and
antick forroes/' meutioned in this Survey, are said, in a manu*
script note by Le Neve, who saw this edifice before its demoli-
tion, to have been of " plaster-work made of rye-dough, in ima-
gery very costly/' The materials of the house were valued by
the parliamentary commissioners at 70201.
After the decease of the Earl of Arundel, his son-in-law. Lord
Lnmley, conveyed this estate to the crown in 1591. Nonsuch
afterwards became a iavourite residence of Queen Eliaabeth ; and
it was here that the Earl of Essex first experienced her displea-
sure. It was settled upon Anne, Queen of James I. ; and in the
following reign on Queen Henrietta Maria. In 1670-1, Charles*
II. granted Nonsuch, with both the parks, to George YiflcouBt
Crandison, and Henry Brouncker, Esq. in trust for the Via-
eonnt's niece, Barbara, whom the king created Duchess of
Cleveland and Baroness of Nonsuch.f This lady pulled down
both
^ * The origins] of this Sorrey is deposited in the Aagmenlation Office ; it b
printed in the fifth Tolome (if the ArchmMgitu
t Xhe dochess was the wife of Roger Palmer, created Earl of Caatlemaiiie*
She was very beamifo), and equally rapacious, prodigal, and revengefoL
She had for a considerable time a great and dangeroos inflaence OTcr the
king. She was an inveterate enemy of the Earl of Clarendon, who tbooght
it degrading to his character to shew even common civilities, math more to
pay his conrt, to the m'istreu of any monarch. The king conid not be an aln
lolate stranger to her intrigues, which, according to the memoirs of the time%
were very open, and often wiih such men as Hall, a rope-dancer, and Good*
man« a player. The former was famous for the symmetry and elegance of his
person, as well as for his strength. Mn Wycherley was one of her paramours.
When the king left her, he conferred on her the above-mentioned titles. She
afterwards gave her hand to Robert Fielding, better known by the name of
Btm Fielding, a man as handsome and as profligate as herself. He had maiw
lied a woman supposed to possess « large fortune; but discovering that in fact
die bad none, he forsook her, and accepted the duchess, whom he treated
with insofonoe and bmtaiity. She found out his former marriage, proaecntcd
bim for bigamy* and he was found guilty, but pardoned by-Qocen Anne,
(Oruiger IL 4t3, 461, S94.)
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8URRBT* 179
beth the palace and Worcester Honse^ and turned the parks into
ftnns^ At her death in 1709, the dnchess left them both to her
grandson^ the Dnke of Grafton, whose snccessor sold them in
1731 • Worcester Park is Aow the property of William Taylor,
Esq. who has a mansion and extensiye gunpowder mills adjoining
to the park, but in the parish* of Long Ditton. The little park
was purchased of the Dnke of Grafton by Joseph Thompson, Esq.
who buQt a house at some distance from the site of the palace ;
but this has been taken down by the present owner, Samuel Far-
mer, Esq. who has erected in its stead a capital mansion, in the
Gothic style.
In the parish of Mickleham is Norbury Park, the residence
of William Lock, Esq. whose father, in 1774, purchased Uiis
estate of Anthony Chapman, Esq. The mansion then standing
in a low situation near the Mole, which washes the boundary of
the park, being decayed and ruinous, Mr. Lock pulled down the
greatest part of it, reserving tiiie north end for his fiirm, and on a
hill commanding delicious and extensive prospects, erected one
of the most beautiful seats in the county. The architecture,
though striking, is not quite regular; but the edifice is well
fitted to reign over the domain in which it is placed. The sides
of the principal rooms are painted by Barrett, with views of the
romantic mountains and lakes of CnmberUtnd and Westmoreland,
which are so managed as to have the appearance of being a con«
tinuation of the surrounding scenery. The park, which is extenr
sive and agreeably diversified^ is embellished with plantations
disposed with the utmost taste. No place of equal extent in
Surrey is supposed to possess so many valuable walnut-trees as
Norbury Park, which, about a century ago, was said to contain
no fewer than forty thouhand. It is remarked as a proof of the
uncertainty of their produce, tliat in some years 6001. worth of
walnuts have been gathered from the trees in this park, whereas
in others they have yielded scarcely a single bushel. ^
The parish of Mickleham contains several other elegant man^
sions, among which are those of Lady Talbot, and Sir Lncas
Pepys. It likewise comprehends the greatest part of Box-kHl,
N % vhioh
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\8b 8VRRET.
irhich here rises abruptly from tbe Mole tbat washes its loot.
From the highest point of this celebrated hill the eje expatiateo,
6a a clear day, over the intervening^ country quite to the Soolk
Downs of Snssex, near the sea^ and iwages inr a north^ni diiec'
lion beyond the metropolis over great part of Middleseic. v.^^4iBi^
top Mr. Peters, of Beachworth Castle^ the presents
fam-yard : and it is a remarkable drcnmstanee,
spring here water is obtained at ouiy fifteen feet frooi'l
Of the ground, though at Denbighs, on the opposit&<|
drawn from the depth of 400 feel*
From the remains of ancient buildings discovered^ Jtrl
bN-THB'UiLL, there is every reason to 8U|^pose tfa«t J
a Roman station. These remains, consisting ohiefty *
bricks and tiles, were found towards the south en^ <j
heath, about half a mile west of the turnpike-road from ]
Reigate, on a piece of ground covered with grsas oaly^:^
with brakes and heath like the rest of the common.'
isontuning about a quarter of an acre, is full of litUdS^
and has the appearance of the foundation of aome
An account of these relics, and also of a small brass
Eseulapius dog up at thesame place in 1772, waa giveil^ fi^Eil^
Archieologia^ by Mr. Barnes, who, in a second search iImhIm
1808, traced the foundations of some ancient buiUsi^ /fha
piece of ground in question lies within a large iodoaon ^tf
earth-work, three sides of which remain: but the fiNirth k HSi
in fields. About a quarter of a mile from this spot is a audi
larger inclosure of the same kind, three sides of which ttsyldBO
be traced; but the banks which run frtmi sooth to north are in like
taanner lost in indosures near the village aad church of Waltoo,
which would hare been taken in, if the east and west lines had
extended a little fiirther to the north, as there is reason to b^eve
tiiey did. About half a mile westward of the place where Ae
antiquities were di^vered, are tbe remains of a well lined with
flints, which is conjectured to have been a work of the Rmattna,
and to have served for the supply of the station,
Walton
* VoL XX. p. 108.
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SURREY. Idl
Walton church is bail! with flints and stones, intermixed with
some Roman tiles. The font is a curious piece of workmanship of
lead ; round it are nine fig^ures, in a aitting^ posture, with their
laces much damaged.
The Hundred of Kingston
is bounded on the east by Brixton ; on the south by Emley*
bridge; on the north by the Thames, which divides it from Mid-
dlesex; and on the west by the same river and the hundred of
Emley-bridge. It belongs to the deanery of EweU, and contains
the parishes of Kingston, Long Diitan, Maldon, Ru^mond,
Kew, and Petersham.
The jurisdiction of this hundred was granted by a charter of
Edward IV. in 1481, to the corporation of Kingston ; to whom it
was confirmed by a&rther grant of Charles I. in 1638.
Kingston on the Thames
is thus denominated from its situation on the east bank of the
river, about twelve miles south-west of London. In 1801 the
town and parish contained 676 houses, and 3793 inhabitants.
Whatever creiHt may be given to the conjectures of Qale;
Horsley, and other writers, respecting the antiquity of this town,
there is no room to doubt that the Romans, during some period of
their residence in Britain, had here a considerable station. On
the neighbouring hills about Comb have been dug up many coins
of the emperors, particularly of Dioclcs:an, the Maximinians,
Maximns, and Constantino the Great; also, as Leland informs
ns, *' 4ivers eoynes of brasse, sylver, and gold, with Remains
inscriptions, and paintid yerthen pottes or tyles ; and yn one, in
Cardinal Wolsey's tyme, was found much Romayne mony of syU
ver, and masses to bete into plates to coyne, and chaynes of syl-
ver.''* Eastward of this place, on a gravelly hill near the road^
was a burial place of the Romans, where are often found urns and
pieces of urns, which lie about two feet deep in the earth. One,
in particular, was discovered about the year 1670, of a kind of
amber colour, filled up half way with black ashes, and at the bof-
N3 torn
•UI«ad'»Itio.VI.85.
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-182 fiUftUT.
torn tomeihiiig like coarse bair, as if laid there before. Some
persons digging here in October, 1722, also found a great nom-
ber of nms and Roman annuities. The Roman town itsdf
seems to hare stood on this spot ; for Leland, speaking of the old
monuments of the town of Kingston^ discovered hereabouts, tells
vs« that besides the coins of their emperors already mentioned,
'' yn the declyving down from Comb Park toward the galoys, ya
ploughing and digging hare very often beene founde iimdations
ofwanlles of houses/'
In later times, that is, after the arrival of the Saxons, this place,
as we are informed by Camden, apparently upon the authority of
Matthew Paris, was called Moreford, which signifies the Great
Ford, being situated on a level where it was much exposed to in-
undations; and be adds, that " out of this) which was the first
Saxon town here, hath arisen the present." Leiand also mentions
it as a tradition among the inhabitants in his time, that " the
bridge where the commune passage was oyer the Tamise at olde
Kingston, (i. e. the first Saxon town above-mentioned,) was lower
on the ryyer then it is now : and when men began the new town;
yn the Saxon tymes also, they toke from the rery ctive of Comb
Parke side (where the Roman town or work had been,) to build
on the Tamise side, and sette a new bridge hard by the same.''*
Kingston has been the theatre of several remarkable events.
In 838, being the 39th year of Egbert, a general council was
held at this place, at which were present the king himself, Ethet
wolph, his son, Ceolnoth, Archbishop of Canterbury, with others
of the prelates and nobility of the realm; and here, as our an-
cient chronicles testify, many of the Saxon kings were crowned.
From this circumstance it has been supposed by some to have
acquired its present name ; but the fact is, that it was so called
at least as early as the Council of Egbert, though none of oar
kings appears to have been crowned here before Edmund the
Elder, A. D. 900. It seems more reasonable, therdbre, to derive
its modern name from the well-known circumstance of its ahrays
having been a royal fortress and ancient demesne of the crown ;
' ^ fofi
♦ Wand's Itin, VI. 25.
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Ibr, as dale obscires^ '* d SoMamm ingreisu, regium #€Miper
J^ciutrum et sacri patrinwHti pars.'* *
It is related by Hemingford f^ that when King Henry III.
had dispossessed the barons of the towns of Northampton and Not-
tingham^ in the beginning of April 1264, and been informed^ on
his way to London^ that the Earls of Leicester and Gloaoester,
at the head of the citizens, were on their march to oppose him, he
prudently declined to meet them; and turning aside to Kingston,
possessed himself of the castle there belonging to the Earl af
Gloucester. This account is retailed by Lambarde, and on these
authorities Camden also has asserted, that this place " was odce
fiunous for the castle of the Clares, Earls of Gloucester. But
as the &mily of Clare had no possessions in this place, upon or
for the defence of which they could be supposed to have erected a
castle ; so neither are there any vestiges of such a structure. It is
not improbable indeed, that the Earl of Clare and Gloucester, a
principal leader of the insurgents in these parts, having made him-
self master of the passage of the river at this place, erected for its
security a temporary fort, which the historians of the times dig-
nified with the name of a castle.
On the 6th of February, 1553-4, Sir Thomas Wyat, having
lain three days before London Bridge, without being able to force
a passage, marched to Kingston ; on which occasion a great part
of the bridge was broken down, and 200 men posted on the oppo*
site bank to defend the passage ; but on sight of two pieces of
ordnance thej marched off; and Sir Thomas, having repaired the
bridge with planks and ladders, continued his route on that side
of the water to the metropolis.
During the contest between Charles L and the Parliament, the
inhabitants of Kingston were remarkable for their attachment to
the royal canse : and here the last struggle was made in behalf
of the unfortunate monarch. During his imprisonment in the Isle
mi Wight, in 1648, the Earl of Holland persuaded the Duke of '
N 4 Buckingham
• Comm. in Antonin. Itin. p. 7t.
'f Hist. Aug. Scrip. Quince, p. 58?. .
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IM smuat.
Bodiiogliam and his brotiier hati Fhrncts Villi«n to jm him m
an ill-concerted attempt Haviiig asaembled here abost 000
boree, they ayowed thttr inteiitioii of irieasiog the king, and
hringiDg him to Parliament to restore peaoe, and pieeerf e the
laws. A declaratioD to this etfect was sent to the citiv^m of
London, who were inyited to join them. The Psrliament im«
medislely dispatched some troops of horse from Windsor, mder
Colonel Pritty, who ibnnd the Royalists ill prepared for defence.
On the 1st of July a skirmish took place near Snrbiton Common,
when the Eoil's party were soon def(nted. He fled to Harrow,
where he was taken; the Duke escaped, hat Lord naaeis was
killed. Hebehared with extraordinary eoniage; and after his
hone had been killed under him, stood with his hack agminsi a
tree, defending himself till he sunk onder his womds. The
initials of his name were inscribed on the tree, and remained till it
wss cut down in 1680*.
Kingston was first incorporated by King John, in the fovt ycsr
of his reign ; and the privileges conferred by his charier were
confirmed, and extended by sacoeedingmonsrchs. Hie corporation
consists of baili£i, high steward, recorder, town derk, jnstioes»
&c. who are anthorised to hold a court every week ferthe decision
of all kinds of pleas and actioos. The Hundred Court also, a
court of ancient demesne, is held before the bailifis and suitors once
in three weeks.
This town was represented in five Parliaments from 4 Bdward
II. to 47 Edward III. Prynna asserts, that it was one of those
boroughs which had burgesses returned for them against thdr in*
clination, but which, on their petition to the king, were exempted
from this burden.
The msrket granted by the charter of James I. is on Satar*
days; and the town has three annual feirs; on Whit-Thursday and
two following days for horses and toys; on the 2d, 3d, and 4th of
August for fruit, principally cherries and pedlary ; and on the
13th of November for cattle of the Welch, Scotch, and Irish breeds,
and
• Aubrey, Vol. I. p. 47,
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8VUBT. 185
wd diA> Iiogs and th#ep. This hsi is ficqiieiited Ikjr&mMB fioAi
all Ike neighboaring ooiintiss.
The houses of Kingston are in general low, and rather mean^
lint it has a spacioiis nHurket-phice, at the north end ^of whidi
stands the Town Hall, detached from all other bniMiags. The
market is held In the lower part, which is diiefly open ; but the
aoath end is closed in the time of the assises, and used hy the jndge
on the Crown side. . The room ahoYO b appropriated to tiie jndge
who sits at Nisi P^ins, and the north end of the latter is the grand
jury room, which at other times is need by the Corporation. The
judges, who always hold the Lent Assizes here, hare freqocntfy
eompfauoed of the ineonTenienee of these courts; and it must be
confessed that they mtke a bad figure when compared with the
magnificent buildings which hsTe been erected in some othtf
oenntieB. The front is decorated by a statue of Queen Anne<:
and in the hall is a portrait of the same princess. In 1806, an
act passed for enlarging or rebuilding this structure ; but it has
not yet been carried into execution.
The Bridge at Kingston is doubUess the oldest on the river
Thames, except London bridge. It is an ordinary structure of
timber, so iaartificially put together as to warrant the inference,
4hat whatever changes it has undergone in its materials from fre-
^uent repairs, there has been no deviation firom the plan on which
it was originally built. The Middlesex side was consideFsbly
widened about 1791. Ito length is stated at 166 yards.
On the right hand of the road, at the entrance of Kingston firom
London, stands NorbHcn Hall, a handsome brick uMtnsion, which
in the reign of Edward VI. belonged to Richard Tavemer, Enq.
a man of considerable celebrity in his time*. General Gabriel
Johnston
* This geotlenan being • lealous Protef tant, obteined a licence to preach
in anfr place within the king's dominioni, and actually did preach before the
Univenitjr of Oifotd^ when be was high sheriff of the county with a swerd bj
hit lids, and a gold chain ahost his o^cfc. Us retired, daring the yeiga of
9 ««eea
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166 tUUBT.
lohmUm it tbe pmeai omnfir. Opposite to . Noibotan HaD/ oh
the other side of tbe rood, stands Narbeiom Place, in a paddock
of about forty aores. It became soae time since tbe property of
Mrs. Dennis, wbo boilt a new bovae here,, which is now tbe resi*
dence of her dangbter, tbe wife of C. N. Pdmer, Esq.
In tbe nuddle of tbe street of Norbeton, on tbe north nde, is
an Ahmg-hoiuMe fer six poor men, and six women, a handsome
bridL bnilding, in the centre of which is a large room, originally
dcyrigned tor a chapel ; bnt at present scarcely ever used except.as
ardining*room on the dth of NoTcmber, erery year, when tbe go-
Tcmors meet to setUe the accoonts. Over the door of tbe chapel
is an inscription, recording its foundation . in 1668, by William
Cleave!^ Alderman of London. The rents of tbe esliAe. with wbicb
he endowed this institntion amount at present to 2341. lOs. per '
In 33 Edward I. a cbqid dedicated to Mary Magdateawns
built at Kingston, at tbe cost of Richard LoTekyn, citiMn of
London, bnt a native of this place, wbo endowed it for one disp-
lain to perf>rm divine service there every day. His son John
reboilt this chapel, and in 1352, obtained letters patent, aatho-
lizbg him to extend tbe foundation by the addition of another
chaplain, and liberally endowed it He also drew up ordinances
tnd provisions for tbe good government of this institatiott, ae-
eording to wbicb, one of these chaplains was to have tbe title of
enstos, or warden, and to preside over such others as on a ftur*
tiier increase of tbe revmiues mi^t be received into tbe esta-
blishment. To this foundation William Walworth, some time the
apprentice of Lovekyn, and afterwards tbe famous Lord Mayor of
London^
Qoeen Mary, to his Mat at Kiogirton, where he was suffered to leaBain aiiiiM>>
lested. Fnllen in his Chnrch History, qootei from a hook of Sir John Cbeke't,
intituled " The True Subject to the Hebeliioo, 1641/' one of his senaoM
which begins thos : *' ArriYiog at ihe Meant of St. Marie's in the stony stage
where I now stand, I have brought yon some -fine hiskets, baked in tfae'tiven
of Charity, carefully conserved for the chicken of the Chirch, the spairowi of
the spirit, and tbe sweet swallows of saWation."
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milftBT; 187
London^ added another diapUin^ and amply provided for his rap-
]»ort . Whetiier this iastittttion receiTed any Curlher accearionsire
^ure not inlonned; bnt it subaisled till 1 Edward V. when by the
act for diMolving free chapels^ chantries^ &c. all its poBseamona
became vested in the Crown. This building was granted by
Qneen Elizabeth to the bailifis of Kingston and their suecesson,
for the purpose of founding a Free Grammar Schoel, which she
afterwards endowed for the support of an upper and under mas-
ter, with estates in this town formerly belonging to the Cartha*
sian priory in London. It was a handsome edifice, and has pre-
served its form with little alteration, being a room thirty«eight
feet in length, sixteen feet nine inches in breadth, and of propor-
tionate height Adjoining to it was a small chapel, called St
Ann's, and on the south side another named St Loy's. On the
site of the latter, and of the ancient manse, or habitation of the
chaplains, has been erected a dwelling of modem date, which
is the residence of the master ; bnt no boys belonging to the town
hav.e been sent to the school for many years.
The Church is dedicated to All Samts. Ito original form,
being that of a cross, may still be disceined ; but it has under-
gone so total a change by repairs as to have the appearance of
s new building. The only part which exhibits a specimen of
the ancient state of the whole is the sonth aisle of the chancel;
which is built of chalk, irregularly intermixed with flints. The
inside consists of a nave, with its north and south aisles, from
each of which it is separated by four pointed arches, supported by
low octangular colnnuis. These aisles were rebuilt of brick, and
-the interior of the church completely repaired, in 1721. At the
west end is a gallery with a handsome organ ; on the south side
are two other galleries, and over the north aisle is a fourth. The
length of the nave and chancel is 145, that of the transept, which
is the greatest breadth of the church, 97i feet; the whole, par*^
licularly the nave,, being very lofty. In the centre of the build-
f»jg, where the transept intersects the main body, stands the tower»
^ which was formerly a spire of timbers covered with lead. This
steepb
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188 ^UMiv^
steeple w«b destroyed by ligbtning^ FeNoery h 1444-6» m a
•torm by wbich the churcbes of Baldock in Hertfaidebire; WeU
den, and Waltbam in Easex^ and St Paul la London, wen alio
nncb damaged; Tbe steeple, being again lepaired, eentinaed till
November 26, 1703, when both the spire and tower reeeifod so
much iiyury from the memorable storm of wind whid& hi^peaef
Mi thai day, that the inhabitants were oUiged to take down the
former, and great part of the latter, which was replaced widi
brick-work. No part of tbe present stmctnre appears to he.older
than the reign of Richard II. ; the south chancel, separated from
the middle chancel by pointed Gothic arobea, and light elostered
eolomns, seems to be of .abont that age* Both these cbaaoels are
snrrooaded with wooden stalls* In the sooth chancel is a piscina
with a rich Gothic canopy.
. In I4d9, a chaimtry was foimded and endowed ia this chords
by William Skemet, for one chaphun; and^ in 1477, Itobert
Bardesey of Kingston obtained a licence to establish a giM, or
fraternity, composed of clergy and bdty, and of persons of both
sexes, by tbe style and title of Two Wardens of the Fhdwmity
of the Holy Trinity in Kingston, and of the Brethren and Sisteis
ofthesame«
Adjoining to the south side of the chancel was a chapd, dedl*
cated to the Virgin Mary ; hot we hare noacconnt of its foonda-
tion. In this chapel wore presenred portraits of sereral of the
Saxon kings who had bem orowned there, and also of Kii^ John,
to whom the town owed its irst charter. T^iese relies of antifni*
ty were destroyed by the frdl of the chapd in 1790*.
Of the nnmeroos sepnlchial memorials in the choreh^ one of
the
* By this accident^ the texton, who happeneil to be digsing a grsve at tho
time« was boned under tbe ruins with bis daogbter and another penon« The
daughter, tboagb she lay coTered under tbe rubbish seven hours, surTWed the
misfortune fifteen years, and was her father's soecessor. The memoty of thia
event it pieserved by a curious print of Ibis female sexto% engraved by Jwm^
M'AtMl, (fom a paisting by i. Botlsfv
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8FERBT* 189
At BIO0I ancient and remarkable is that of Robert Skeme, who,
irith hia wife, is pourtrayed on a braaa-plate^ in a gown that
reachea down to hia feet, with wide aleoTea. The girdle in
atadded with roaea. The euriona inscription, in Latin verae, and
m black letter, ia placed the wrong way upwards. Skeme's wift
b said to have been the daughter of the celebrated Alice Pierce,
or Perreas, the reputed mistresa of Edward III. bat whether by
Sir William de Wyndeaore, who married her after the king's
death, is not known. He lived at Downe Hall, in this pariah,
and had a grant of tbe costody of Richmond Park.
Here are alao monuments for Sir Anthony Benn, Records of
London, who died in 1618 ; the Honourable Anthony Fane, third
aon of the Earl of Westmoreland, who waa a colond in the Ftf •>
liament army, and fell at the aiege of Pamham Caatle, in hia
tiiirtieth year, in 1643; William Ckave, Esq. founder of the
alms-house in this town ; and Dr. Ge<»ge Bate, who died inl668,
aged sixty ♦.
In the church-yard ia buried Dr. William Battief, formerly
a physician
* Dr Bate wm bom at Maid's Morton^ in BackingbamsUre, bred at Ox-
ford, aod practised tbere some years, cbiefly among tbe Poritaas. He at-
tained soch eminence, that when Charles I. kept bis court at Oxford be was
bis principa] physician* When tbe king's affairs declined, be went to Lon*
don, where be accommodated himself so well to tbe times as to obtain tbe
tame appointment from Oliver Cromwell. He seems to bare adopted the
prineipte so saccestfiilly pursatd by tbe celebrated vicar of Bray; for, en
tbe Restoration be insinuated himself into the good graces of the royal
party, was made principal physician to tbe king, and admitted a Fellow of
the Royal Society. This is said by Wood to have been owing to a report
iraised by bis friends, that be gave the Protector a dose which hastened bis
death. He was tbe aotbor of some political as well as medical publications.
t Dr. Battle was a native of Devonshire, educated at Eton and King's Col-
lege* Cambridge, and died in 1776. On leaving the University he settled as
a physician at Uxbridge, where be became eminent, particularly in cases of
insanityi on which disease be published a treatise in t757, and was in con-
sequence engaged in a controversy with Dr. Monro. In 1749, be took an
active
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190 StlftRKY^
a phymeiBn in Lmifbn^ but witlioal uiy taonliiiient dr iiineri|itwa^
aceording to bis own orders.
On the side of Comb Hill, where it declines towards Kitogs*
ton, is a Qmduii, the work of Cardinal Wolsey» from which
Hampton Court Palace is supplied with water by mesas sf
leaden pipes carried under the river Thames. Dr. Hales ohsenred
that this water left oo incrustation on a boiler in the coffiee-hosss,
which had been in use lonrteen years; and that it is sollerthia
either the Thames water, or that of the river which croeseairHeflaf*
low Heath to Hampton Court*.
Kew House, near the Thames, in the parish of the same nsaie,
belonged, about the middle of the 17th century, to Rtehsrd Bar^
nett, Esq. ftom whom it descended in marriage with his dsn^
ter to the Capel family. About 1730 Frederic, Prijice of Waki^
admiring the situation, obtained a long lease of this house, dfil
began to lay out the gardens, which were finished by the Pnooess
Dowager, who made this place her residence. After her death
it became a fiivourite retreat of his present m^esty, who pnr-
disaed the freehold. The house, which was so small that it
could be used only as an occasional retirement^ was in part
taken down about 1802, and the pictures were removed Is aa
old mansion opposite to the palace, belonging to the qneea.
About the same time a new edifice was begun within Richmond
Gardens, a little to the west of Kew Green. This structure,
which is of the castellated form, and in its general wchitertare aa
imitation of the style of the middle of the IGth century, is Ma
the designs of James Wyatt, Esq. and as yet unfinished.
The pleasure-grounds contain 120 acres ; and, notwithstandfi^
the disadvantages of a flat sur&ce, are laid out with much tasfe^
and exhibit a considerable variety of scenery. They are em«
bellisbed
actiTe part in the ditpote between the College of PhysiciaDt, and Dr. Scbo»
berg» for which he was attacked in a poem intttaled the BtttimL He diiltii*
gviihed himself as a scholar^ by an edition of Isocratet, 17t9 end 170, ta/ft
•s a phy lieiaa by his Aphorisnu.
• Hale's Statical Essays, IL UO, S41.
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SURHJBY. 191
bellished with many picturesque objects, designed by Sir WiUiuii
Chambers; the most striking of which is the Pagoda, in imitation
of a Chinese building, 49 feet in diameter at the base, and 16t3 feet
high.
The botanic garden was established in 1760, by the Princess
Dowager for the cultivation of exotics, on which his Majesty has
bestowed such attention, that it now exhibits a collection of planta
not to be matched perhaps in the world. Persons hare been em*
ployed from time to time to procure new and rare plants in dis-
tant quarters of the globe, and this garden is constantly receiring
accessions from all parts of the world by the contributions of zea-
lous promoters of the science of botany.
Ham House^ in the parish of Petersham, was first erected
by Sir Thomas Vavasor; and came, in 1651, into the possession
of Sir Lionel Tollemache, in whose descendants, the Earls ^ of
Oysart, it is still vested. After the death of Sir Lionel, the
house underwent great alterations, and many additions were made
to it by his widow, on whom the peerage was first conferred; but
it is said to have been furnished at a very great expense, in the
taste of that time by Charles II. Here, as it is reported, the
Cabal held their meetings, after this mansion came into the
hands of the Earl, afterwards Duke, of Lauderdale, by his mar-
riage with the Countess in 1671 *. It is said to have been on-
ginally
* A eorrctpondenoe bad previously rabflisted for many yean between the
dake and this ladjr, who bad notoriously inflnenced his politiGal condoct on
many occasions. According to Burnet^ '* this correspondence was of an early
dtte» and had given occasion to censnre. For when he was a piisoner, after
the battle of Worcester in 1651> she made htm believe he was in great dan*
ger of bis life, and that site saved it by ber intrigues with Cromwell. Upon
the king's restoration she thought that the earl did not make the return which
they expected ; and they lived for some years at a distance. But after her
hoiband's death she made up all quarrels ; and they lived so much together
that the earl's lady was offended at it« and went to Paris, where she died
about three years after. The Lady Dysart at length got such an ascendency
orer him, that it lessened bira mnch in tite esteem of all the world ; for be
delivered
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i9i SORftEY.
ginally demgned fer Henry Prinee of Wales, urn of Jaaes I.
ami IB a ciurioiw specimen of the ttaasioas of tiiat ago. The eeil-
ings are painted by Verrio^ and the apartaients ornamented with
iiiat massy magnificence which was then in ^hion. The fv-
Aitnre is rery rich, the very bellows and bnwhes in some of
the rooms being of solid siWer, or of siWer fillagree. In the
centre of the hoose is a large hall, surrounded witii an open
gallery. The ballnstrades of the grand staircase, which is re-
maikahly spacions and sobstaatial, are of walnnt-tree, and oma-
flMflnted with military trophies. In the north drawing-room it a
▼sry hrge and beantifol cabinet of i?ory, lined with cedar. On
the west side of the house is a gallery, ninety-two feet in ieagtii,
hung with portraits. In the closet adjoining the bed-chamber,
which was the Duchess of Lauderdale's, sliD remains the great
chair in which she used to sit and read ; it has a small desk fixed
to it, and her cane hangs by the side.
This mansion contains nmny fine pictures by the oM masters,
among which the works of Yandereldt and WonTermcns are con-
spieuotts. Among the portraits are those of the Duke of ^^ander-
dale,
ddivcred hinfclf sp to all her hnnMMm Aod punons. All applicstioiis wers
■lade to her. She took upon her to determine ererj thing. She told att
placet, and was wanting in no methods that could bring her money, which
ahe IsTished with a moat profute vanity/' (T. t45.) Again, speaking of them
both* he says : " Kot content with the great appointnenta the/ had, ahe set
herself hy all possible methods t» laise money. They Kved at a vast expense,
and every thing was set to sale. She carried all thioga with an hevghtiaess
that conld not have been easily borne (rou a qoeen; and talked of all people
with such nngovemed freedom, that she grew at length to be universally
bated." (I. S39.) She was, in short, according to this author, ** a woman of
great bean^, but of far greater ports. She had a wonderAil quickness of ap>
prehension, and an amaaing vivacity in conversation. She bad ttndied not
only divinity and history, bat mathematics and philoaopby. She was violent hi
every thing slie set about ; a violent fiiend ; but a much more vieleot enemy.
She had a restlem ambition, lived at a vast expense^ waa ravenooaly covetoai^
and would have stuck at nothing by which she might compiis her ends.**
(L S45.) This lady snrvived the doke many years, and died in 1898.
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firftftBT* ISS
dale tiid the Earl of HanultOD, in one picture, by Conielias
Jaiiiien ; tlie Dolce and Dndiess, by Sir Peter Lely ; the Duke
. in his Garter robes by the same ; Charles II. who was a visitor
of this place; Sir John Maitland, Chancellor of Scotland; Sir
Henry Vane; William Mnrray, the first Earl of Dysart; Catherine^
his wife, a beantifhl pictore in water-colonrs, by Hoskins; Sir
Lionel Tolkmache, first husband to the Dnchess of Lauderdale;
James Stewart^ Duke of Richmond, a very fine picture by Van-
dyke ; the late Cpnntess oi Dysart^ by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and
many others deserving notice *.
This house was the birth-place of that great statesman and
general John, Duke of Argyle, who was grandson to the Duches»
of landerdale. His brother Archibald, who succeeded him in
his title, and was Lord Keeper of Scotland, was also bom here.
Home says, that on the arrival of the Prince of Orange in Lon*
don, James II. was ordered to retire to this house, but thinking
himself unsafe so near the metropolis, he fled privately to France.
Pettrshmm L^dge was purchased by King Charles I. of Gregory
Cole, Esq. In 1685, James II. granted the lease of this mansion
to Edward Viscount Cornbury, son of the Earl of Clarendon, and
grandson of the Chancellor. It afterwards became the property^
or was at least in the occupation, of Henry, Earl of Rochester, bis
cousin german; and on the first of October, 1721, was suddenly
consumed by fire, together with all the rich furniture, an excellent
collection of pictures, and the valuable library of his great imcle,
the Chancellor. The offices having escqued the flames, the Earf
of Harrington, before his elevation to that title, built another
house on the site of the former, after a design of the Earl of Bur-
lington. In 4779, it was sold to Thomas Pitt, Esq. created
Baron Camelford in 1784, in which year also he purchased the
fee simple of the Crown. In 1790, it was bought of Lord Camel-
ford, by his Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence, who made it
his summer residence for some years, and then disposed of it to
9ir William Mannas^ Bart the present proprietor. The pleasure-
Vol. XIV. O grounds
* MsQiiiiig and Bray's Survey, L 367, S.
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IM -lOftlKt.
•groniids are sptdooft and beaatifttl, hmng been enlarged by tlie
additioD of a snail part of Bidunond Vvk, gWea by hia majesty
to the Ditke of Clarence.
ftlCHtffOND.
Sbene, tbe aiiei^i name of this place, was probably de-
riTed horn tbe Saxoa word Seffne, or Scien^, yet not on acooani
of the splendor reflected upon it by the neighbourhood of a
palace, as some have supposed, for it was so named long before
our princes appear to have resided here ; but rather irom its eon-
apicuoos situation, standing as it does on a considerable emiacaos *
on the east bank of the Thames, about foor miles to the north of
Kingston.
This manor, being parcel of the Royal demesne of Kingstoa,
was given by Henry I. to the fiunily of Bdet, who severally held
it by the seijeanty of chief butler, or cop-bearer to the king. It
afterwards went by marriage to the hmilj of Valletort ; hot ever
since the end of the reign of Edward I. we find it in tbe pos-
session of our kings, who thenceforth made it the place of their
occasional retirement How far it was at this early period
adapted to the reception of a prince's household, or the purposes
of a Royal residence, we are no where informed. That a palace
ahould have been erected here, of which no traces are to be found
in our records, is, as Manning observes, highly improbable. ** I
am inclined therefore to believe,'' he adds, " that during the
reigns of Edward I. and his three immediate successors there was
no place of residence here that could properly be called a royal
palace, and the rather as very few of the public instnimeuts of
those reigns are dated from this place ; and moreover, as of more
than thirty children bora to tlie three Edwards not one was bora
here. I am aware indeed that King Edward III. is said to have
built a palace on this his manor; but on what authority I know
not. The circumstance of his naming it Skene from the splendor
•f the fobric is certainly a mistake, for it was known by that
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auRRSY. 195
name even as long ago aa when King Henry I. gave the manor to *
the family of Bdet. He might possihly improve the mansion
he fonnd here by some additional buildings; bntthis I am in-
clined to think is all he did. Nor do I find that after his deeease^
which happened at this place, June 21, 1377, his saccessor Richard
II. did more. Nay, the circumstance related of his grief, on tho
death of his beloved queen^ which happened also here June 7,
ld94, viz. that ' he cursed the place on that account, and so hated
it ever after, that he would never come there, but commanded
the buildings to be demolished/ * make it more than probable
that they were of no great magnificence." f During the reign of
Henry IV. the mansion lay in the ruined state in which his pre*
decessor had left it; but it was rebuilt by Henry V. and as we
collect firom one of his biographers in such a manner as to render
il " a delightful mansion, of curious and costly workmanship, and
befitting the character and condition of a king." {. Edward IV.
in his sixth year, assigned this palace to his queen for life; and,
in 1485, on the death of his princess, her son-in-law. King
Henry VII. took possession of it, and frequently made it his re*
•idence. In 1492, he held a grand tournament here, when Sir
James Parker, in a quarrel with Hugh Vaughan for a right of
court armour, was killed in the first course. On the 21st of De-
cember 1496, while tiie king was here, this splendid structure
was entirely consumed by fire, with all the apparel, plate, and
jewels, that it contained. Henry, who was much attached to
ti e situation, rebuilt the palace in ISOI, in a style of much Go-
thic magnificence and elegance ; and on this occasion it was that
he changed the name of the place, hitherto called Shene, to that
of Richmond, after his own title, previously to his accession to the
throne. The picture of Henry V. and family, in the Earl of Or-
ford's collection at Strawberry Hill, was an altar-piece for the
chapel here ; and his own marriage and the picture of Henry
0 2 Vlll.
* HoUiashed. Kennett's Hist, of Eftgl. LVTU
f Manning and Bray's Surrey, I. 409, 410.
X Elmbim Vit. Hen. V. c U.
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IM SURUT.
VIII. in tbe «aine collection, are supposed to have been painted
for this monardi, and intended lor this palace. The buiUing had
not long beeii finished, when, in 1906, a second fire broke ont»
and did considerable damage ; and the same year a new gallery^
ia which the king and the prince, his son, had been walking a
few minutes before, fell down. It was also in ld06, that Philip L
of Spain, being driven by a storm upon the English coast, was
entertained at Richmond with great magnificence ; and here, in
ld09, Henry VII. breathed his last At this palace bis socees-
sor kept the following Christmas, and held a tournament; his son
of his own name was bom and died here, and at this place Charles
V. was lodged in 1623. In 1541, the palace and manor were
granted among other estates by Henry VIII. to his diToreed
Queen Ann of ClcTes, by whom in 2 Edward VI. they are said
to have been snrrend^ed to that prince. Some few of the publie
instruments of Mary and Elixabeth are dated from Richmond.
With the latter, although once imprisoned at this place by her
sister, it was a &Tourite residence, and hcxe she expired, Movk
94> 1603. In tiie autumn of the same year, and again in 1625»
the Courts of Justice w^e remored hither on aoooimt of the
plague. In 161(^ this manor, together with the palace and paris^
then called the New Park, ^fere granted by James I. t» Henry,
Prinoe of Walei, and aRer the death of that hopdul prince to Ua
next son Charles, who, after his accession to the tiirsoe, formed
h&n a large collection of pictures. He afterwards settled It on
Us Q«sen Henrietta Maria, as a part of her jointure ; but, in 1650^
this paiaca was sold by the ooaunissionen of tiie House ofCsm-
■oas. It was afterwards purdiased by Sir Greguty Ncrtnu,
Bart tim ssateriab being valued at 10,7821. 19s. 2d. ; bat» by a
of the same Hovse in 1660, it was restotcd to the
L Dowser. This princess, who had reliied to her
country, now rCtmwcd aad leaidcd till 1665, at thi
ik uppeaia tkal she alsMsl immwKalfiy nmgmti her i
it to Sir Edward TillieR, 6thcr of the fbsl Eari of Jtney, hy
whom it was aftcrwuids rrlraafd to King James IL Here the
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•OERBT. 10'
yovng Pteteader ia aaid to have been mined, and lli'e initiak 4>f hia
name, with the date of the year 1688, are still to be seen on some
kaden pipes. At length, in 1770, this manor, togetheririth the
office of steward and Iceeper of the eonrts of the same, excq^ng
^ site of the old palace of RichnM>nd and Richmond Park, was
granted to the present qaeen lor life.
In a survey of Richmond Pahce, by an order of the Honse of
Commons, in 1649 *, a rery minute description is given of it as
it then existocL Among other partioulara mention is made of a
hall one hundred feet long, and forty wide, a <^apel ninety-six
feet long, and forty wide, with stalls as in a cathedial ; an open
gallery adjoining to the privy*gaiden two hundred feet long, hav*
lag a close one of the same length over it, A French writer f
mentions alao a library that was established here by King Henry
yU. and in an household establiahment of Queen Maiy still pre*
nerved in Dulwich College, the librarian is reckoned among the
ttfficers of this palace with a fee of ten pounds a year; but of this
no notice is taken in the Survey.
By the time that it was restored to its former possessors this
structure was probably in a very ruinona condition. Fuller in-
deed speaks of it aa absdntely pidled down ; X but this could
not be the case, if, aa we are informed, it was fer some time occu-
pied by King James IL Upon the whole, however, it is natural
to suppose that the sale of the materials would aoon be followed
by the demolitioD of the building, whieh was aocordingly, by de«
grees, taken down, till the whole was reduced to those few re-
mains of the offices which still exist The site of this once
splendid palace is now occupied by houses erected on such parts
0 3 of
* The origina] of this Surrey is deposited in the Aagmentatioa Office, And
printed in the teoond Tolame of the MommenUi vetvita of the Society of Ai^
tiqnariet, with two Tiews, IPI XXTIl. andXXIV.
t Moiit. L. J. Cbalonaii^ e Carmelite, in hit Traiet£ da ptus h^Un Biblh-
iWfM^ piAfiibed m 1644. See Avbrejr 'i Surrey, Vol. V. p. 341. '
X WmkUi, Part III. p. 78.
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196 softUT*
of il as h»ie been gnated to diftrent perwms on leue from the
Crown.
Among theie are tiie rasidencea of Wfaitahed Keene^ Esq. and
of tbe late Duke of Qoeensbory, and tlmt occopiod by M^
Smith. The latter is called in the lease the Tmmpeiing Hwte,
from the figures of two boys in an ancient porch in the fronts in
servitois' dnsses blowing trumpets. Two houses held by Ifas.
Follarton^ and DaTid Dnndas, Esq. adjoining to the gateway,
formed part of the old palace, and are described in the Snrrey of
1649, as the " Wardrobe buildings and other offices of two stories
high with garrets, lying ronnd a spacious court, having a Me
pair of strong gates, arched and battled with stone orer head,
and leading into the said court from the Green lying before Rich*
mond House*'' In Mrs. FuUarton's garden is stiU remaining sn
old yew-tree mentioned in tbe Survey, and there ^ded at ten
pounds, which is upwards of ten feet in circumference.
The original Park at Richmmid, of which we find the first
mention in a survey of the manor, taken 21 Edward I. appears to
have been situated on the north-west of the prssent viUsge,
between tbe royal gardens and the river. In the grants of
Henry VIIL and James I. mention is made of the new park, which
was probably some addition made either by Henry V. when he
built the palace, or by Henry VII. when he rehniit it. In the
time of Henry VIII. these paiks were also distingnished by the
names of the great and little paries, the former being that which,
was sometimes occupied by Wolsey, who, after he had presented
the king with his new palace of Hampton C!ourt, was permitted to
use the manor of Richmond, where he afterwards occasionally re^
sided. Stow, speaking of bis residence here in 1630, informs
us that '* he was lodged within the Lodge of the Great Park,
which was a very pretty house, where my lord lay attended with
a pretty number of servauts." These two parks v^ere separate in
the reign of ^ames I. but were probably laid together not long
afterwards, one only being noticed in the Sfuryey of 1S49, which
ad^oimrf
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adjoined to the Greea^ and is said to h«?6 contained 349 aerei.
This ia that which, together with the manor was settled on tha
queen, in 1627. In 1707, Qneen Anne demised the Lodge for
99 years, to James, Duke of Ormond, wha rebuilt the house, and
resided there till his attainder in 1716. His brother, the Earl of
Arran, having been enabled by Act of Parliament to purchase hk
estates, sold this mansiMi to George II. then Ptince of Wales,
who frequently retired hither, even after his accession to the
Crown. Caroline, his queen, was very partial to this place, where
she had a dairy and menagerie. In the gardens were several
ornamental buildings, in one of which, called Merlin's Cave, were
▼arious figures of wax, and in another, denominated the Hermit
tage, the busts of Newton, Locke, and other literary characters.
His present Majesty also frequently resided at this place in the
beginmng of his reign ; and, as we have seen, settled it on her
Majesty for life. The Lodge was taken down about forty years
ago, when it was intended to erect a palaoo on its site, the foun-
dations being laid« and the arches tamed for the. purpose. Near
this spot stands the Observaianf, erected io 1768, and 9, by Sir
William Chamben, under the direction of the late Dr. Demainbray
for the astronomical part. Here is a mural arch of 140 degrees,
and eight feet radius ; a zenith sector of eight feet ; a transit
instrument of eight feet, and a ten feet reflector by HerscheL
On the top of the building is a moveable dome, which contains
an equatorial instrument Here is also a collection of subjects in
natural history, an excellent apparatus for philosophical experi-
ments, some models, and a collection of ores from the mines in his
Majesty's Hanoverian dominions. The present astronomer is the
Rev. Stephen Demainbray.
About the year 1800, the king began to build a house on an«-
pther spot, which is not yet finished* The lane which separated
the grounds of Richmond from those of Kew has been stopped up,
and the whole of them are now laid together. On this occasion
bia Majesty gave up to the parish all his right in the common
0 4 caUed
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called PeBUhoose Coiuiuni« tod •! fcia own ezpettie built a vofk»
lioa«e for tke poor«
A part <rf this oU park it nam a dairy and gramg tern, io hk
Miyesty'a own hands. The roMunder oonniitates the royal gar-
dttk, which waafiiailaid oat by Bridgnan in aTenaea, and after-
vaida altered to its proBeni improved rtale by Brown. Aboatm
quarter of a mile to the nortinweet of the <dd palace stood the ham-
let of Weat Shene, consisting of eighteen honses, which were all
taken down in 1769; and the site, being converted into a lawn,
iras added to the king's indosnres.
The New, or Great Park, was made by Charles L who being
addicted to the chace» was desirons of having an extenave in*
dosnre lor red, as well as fiJlow-deer, at this place, whei« he had
large tracts of waste land and woods belonging to his manw,
that were well adapted lor the purpose; bat as this coidd not be
done withont the consent of those parishes which had a right of
common on the wastes, and such gentlemen and ottien as had
estates, intermingled with them, he porcfaased tlieir rights ts
26$ acres belonging to the manor of Petersham, and 483 acres ia
that of Ham, for 4/)00L Exclusively of these the park consisti
of 6d0 acres ia Mortiake, 2d0 in Pataey, about 100 in Richmond,
and as many mwe in Kingston as make 2253 in the whole. It is
enclosed with a bride wall eight miles in circait
The rangership of this park was given by George 11. to Ro^
bert, aon of 8ir Robert Walpole. That statesman himself spent
mnch of his leisure time in this reUreraent, where he is said la
have expended 14,000i. in the repairs of the dreat Lodge, and
other improvements. The office was afterwards conlmed on the
Princess Amelia: and whilst she held it complaints were, ia
1752, set on (bot by the inhabitants of this and the neighbooring
parishes against the depnty-ranger and other keepers of the park
and gates, lor obstructing the Ibol-paths through it After vi-
rions trials and different verdicts in the three following years, a
decision was at length giv» in their inyoar at Kingston Assises,
In
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kr ApU, 1706, when their right was astahlished. In 1761, thd
l^noess faaTing Mrrendered her interest in thie'effice, it was be*
stowed tm the Earl of Bote ; and sinee his deaths in 1792, it has
tesMtined in the hands of the king.
Besides the Great Lodge ahready mentioned^ sometimes sailed
the Old Lodge, there is to the north of it, and nearer to Boo*
hampton^gate, the New Lodge; on the other side of the paifc,
aear Kingston-gate, Birek% or the Thaiched Lodge, lately
inhabited by Sir Charles Stnart, K. B, ; ojsd more to the nortii*
ward, between that and Richmond-hill gate. Hill Lodge, in the
oecupation of the Countess of Pembroke. The Neto, or iSton^
Lodge, was bnilt by George L from a design by the Earl of Pem-
broke, as a place of refreshment alter the fiatigaes of the chace.
His preeent Miyesty, after fitting it up in 1802, gare it for lifi^
with sixty acres of land round it, to Viscount Sidmonth^ who
was then prime minister.
In 1414 King Henry V. founded at this place a house for the
BMintenanoe and support of forty monks of the Cartkmian ord«;
whom he incorporated by the name of the House of Jesus of
Bethlehem at Shene. The fiMmdation charter describes it as
built on the north side of his manor-house or palace Ihere, being
3135 feet in length, and 1905 in breadth: and Willis and Au-
brey inform us, from a manuscript copy of Florence of Worcester,
though the account there given is not very dear, that the loigth
of the hall was forty-fomr paces, the breadth 24 ; the great quad-
rangle 120 paces long, and 100 broad; the cloitters, a sqnara
200 paces long, and nine feet in heights The munificence of
the founder in the endowment of this institution kept pace with
the grandeur of the edifice ; but, besides the estates possessed by
this house, the privileges enjoyed by the monks eatablished in it
were uncommonly great and extensive, amounting to an exemp-
tion from every burden and service incident to a subject of the
realm, both personal and pecuniary; and that not only for them*
selves^ but alio for their tenants. This monastery was one of
thoae Yhich voluntarily surrendered their estates to the Crown in
9 1589,
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909 SOMST.
1899, when its amiial rereBnes amoitiited U M9L llt.6d. Its
site was gianted tbe foUowiog year to the Earl of Hertford,
afterwards Dake of SooMrset; aadoiitiieattaiiider<rftliat aoUe-
man to Henry Grey, Duke of Svfiblk : Irat in 1M7 Qaeen Marj re>
snmed this grant, and reinstated the Carthvsian monks. This new
fonndalion was of short continnance; for in the b^;inning of 1550,
soon after the accession of Eiizabeth, it was finally suppressed. In
1650, the site of this house was soldas erown land, uid pmrchased
hy Alexander Easton. On this occasion a sorYey was taken by
order of Parliament, in which the bmldings, according to the slste
of them at that time, are minntdy described. The priory chnitb
is mentioned as standing, thoogh Tery minous ; the prior^s lodg*
ings of brick-work ; the refectory, a stone bnildintg ; the Her-
mitage, or Anchorite's Cell, which was founded in 1416, and en*
dowed with rerenves, issuing ont of the manors of Lewisham and
Greenwich, This estate was resumed by the Crown on the
restoration of Charies IL since which time it has been lett on
lease to Tarioaa persons. An ancient gate-way, the last remaias
of this priory, was taken down in 1769, when the little that wtf
left of the hamlet of West Bhene was annihilated.
About 1499 a conyent was built here near the rojral palace for
Obitrvani Friars, by King Henry VII. It was suppressed,
with others of the same order, in 1584 In the Sunrey el 1649,
a building is described as adjoining to the palace, and '' called
the Friers, oontaiaing three rooms below stajrrs, and four hand*
some ones above stayra," and then used as a ohandler's shop.
The lane which leads from the Green to the Unke of Qneens*
berry's is called Frian Lane, in which two tenements nuric the
site of this establishment.
The Church, or rather chapel, of Richmond, dedicated to St
Mary Magdalen, consists of a nave, two ailes, and n chancd,
built of bridL. At the west end is a low embattled tower of
white stone and flints in chequers, containing eight bells. The
interior is very neat; and contains, among nmny other monnmeata,
tii09e of Henry Lord Viscount Bronncker, eoftrer to Chsiies
IL
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II. who died in 1688; Mra. Mary Ann Yates, the celebrated
•ctrese, who died in 1787 ; Robert Lewis, Esq. a Cambro-Bri*
ton, and barrister at law, '^ so great a lover of peace," sayahis
Latin epitaph, " that when a contention began between life and
death, he immediately gave up the ghost to end the dispute ;'*
Admiral Holboume ; and James Thomson, the celebrated author
of the Seaams, who died in 1748. There was nothing to mark
the spot of his interment, till a brass tablet, with a suitable in-
scription, was put up in 1792, by the Earl of Buchan. The
house in which tiie poet resided at Richmond was purchased after
his death by George Ross, Esq. who, out of reneration for his
memory, forbore to pnU it down, but enlarged and improved it
at tiie expense of 9000L It was afterwards the property and
residence of the late Hon. Mrs. Boscawen, who repiured Thom-
son's favorite seat in the garden, which she adorned with suitable
inscriptions, and placed in it the table on which he wrote his
v^erses. This house is now the property and residence of the Hon.
Cropley Ashley Cooper, brother of the Earl of Shaftesbury.
The church-yard contains the remains of Jacques Mallet Dn
Pan, a native of Switzerland, well known as a political writer,
and author of the *' Mercure Britanmque; the Rev. Gilbert
Wakefield, eminent lor his classical attainments ; and Dr. John
Moore, lather of the brave and lamented general Sir John Moore,
whose observations on society and manners made during his tours
on the continent, besides novels and other productions, claim for
him the character of one of the most entertaining writen of
the age.
In 1719, Peukethman, of facetious memory, opened a new
theatre at Richmond. This was probably the same as that
which stood on the declivity of the hill, and was opened in
|7d6 by Theophihis Cibber, who, to avoid the penalties of the act
against unlicensed comedians, advertised it as a Cephalic snuff
warehouse. A few years afterwards a theatre was erected at the
north-west comer of the green. This is licensed^ and opened
l«pdarly in the sammer season three, and sometimes four, times
in
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in the Week, and k genenlly supplied ynA perfbnun from the
London theatres.
At this place there is a Bridge of fiye slone aiehes oTor tlm
Thames, %hich is here AovX 300 ieel vide, it mi.finishttAia
1777, at an expense of 26,O00L
The beantieii olSichmmd HiU, with its ▼avied4nul eitenii^
project, have so often been cddirated both ia Teiio and ftmfi^
that it would he superflnoua to dwell on them hoPe. Omhfg tai|p
local adfantagesy no village in the kingdom eontaina no mffff
elegant mansiona as RichuMwd. Among these the hBrntglg'
may be enumerated as most worthy of notiee. rfjl^
The late Duke of Queensberry's wai built by CIm^^ JHJp
thiitl Earl Cholmondeley, who obtained a lease of part i0r|||s«i|^^
palace in 1706. The noble gaUery in this house was onamglif'^
with his fiiie ooUeetioo of pictures. It was purchase^, hi ll!H|r
by the late proprietor, who remoTed hidi^ the funAve.Mll
paintings from his seat at Amesbury. The tapestry wfaiel^ Immf !
behind the Barl of Clarendon, in the Court of Ghaneeqr; wmt
decorates the hall of this iaaoaion.
Eari RtxwiUiam's house oil the Green was the pnqpcrty of Uf
lordship's maternal graadfcther. Sir Matthew Oeefcer, Bart aft
eminent Dutch merchant, who here built a room te the veo^
tion of George II. whom he entertained, with his. fueen, on-lftl-
day of his proclamation. It contains two curioos paitttiwgn^
iUchmottd Palace; and some good pictures of the Flemish
school.
At the foot of the hill, on the banks of the Thames, in the
Yilla which the late Duke of Buccleugh inherited from tbe Ddco
of Montague. From the lawn there is a subterraneous commonik ,
cation with the gardena and shrubberies on theoppeaite aide of
the road, whidi are laid out with great tasle^ and extend i
to the summit of the hUl.
Spring Chrwe, the residence of Sir Charles Price, Bart,
built in the early part of the last eentury by the Marquia of
fcothiaa. The present prq^rietor haa made conaideraUe hUi^-
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80REEY. 906
lions to this estate, by the purchase of lands lately belonging to
Lord PalmerstoD.
SiK Robert Dudley, styled abroad Earl of Warwick and
Doke of Northumberland, was born at Shane at 1673. He waS:
the son of Queen Elizabeth's favorite, the Earl of Leicester, by .
Lady Douglas Sheffield ; and after his birth was carefully con-
cealed to prevent the queen from knowing of the earPs engage-
ments with his mother. Though Leicester always denied his
legitimacy, yet at his death he left him the bulk of his estate^
Being of an enterprising disposition, he fitted out a small sqna>
dron at his owii expense, with which he sailed on a successful
cruize against the Spaniards in South America. In 1595 he
accompanied the expedition against Cadiz, where, for his gal-
lantry, he received the honour of knighthood. He now endea-
voured to prove his legitimacy; but being overpowered by the
interest of the Countess Dowager of Leicester, he went abroad
and obtained the patronage of the house of Medici. Regardless
of the king's command to return, he continued at the court of
Florence, and his estates were seized by James I. ; but his ser-
vices to the Grand Duke of Tuscany soon gained him a high
reputation and ample indemnity for his loss. He contrived se-
veral metiiods of improving shipping ; introduced new manu-
fMstures ; drained a vast tract of morass between Pisa and the
sea; and projected the firee port of Leghorn. He was also a
patron of learned men, and himself held a high rank ia the re-
public of letters. In his principal work, intituled Del Arcmwdei
Mare, in two volumes folio, which is full of charts and plans, he
suggests a great variety of projects relative to maritime afiairs,
which display extensive knowledge and great fertility of invention.
Anthony Wood, after enumerating his manifold accomplishment^
says, that he was the first who taught dogs to set in order to
catch partridges. He was created a duke by the emperor of
Germany; and died in 1649 at his castle of CarbeUo, near Flo-
rence.
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906 SURRBY.
In the parish of Thames Ditton in Ember Court, long the
residence of the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow, Speaker of the
House of Commonn, and his son, now Earl Onslow, it is «
commodious hrick dwelling ; hut the front has been covered with
stncco to give it the appearance of stone ; and the park htm
of late years received considerable additions and improveni^tik
After it passed out of the hands of the Onslow fiimily, Etther
Court was inhabited by Sir Francis Ford, Bart and b xiow tke
residence of Colonel Taylor.
The Hundred ov Emlbt Bridge.
This hundred undoubtedly received its name from the river
Mole, formerly called the Emley, by which it is travennd. Ott*
the north it is divided from Middlesex by the Thames; on HM
east it is bounded by Kingston and Croydon hundreds; on tker
poviih by Copthom and Effingham ; and on the west by Chertas^*
It lies in the deanery of Ewell, and embraces the parishes it,
Cobham, Esber, East and West Molesey, Stoke D'Abemsi^
Walton-upon-Thames, and Weybridge.
' In 7 Henry III. Ralph de Immeworth was posacaood of ttii
hundred. It was afterwards vested in the fiunily of Brao«e| Ul^
in 1481, was granted, with its jurisdiction and privilege!^ by Bib.
ward IV. to the corporation of Kingston, to which it was coR*
firmed by the charter of Charles I. in 1638.
In this hundred there is no market-town.
Cobham Park, on the south side of the parish of CobhaK*
was formerly called Downe Place, from a family of that name
who had a mansion here. In the first half of the last centKry it
became the property of John Bridges, Esq. who erected a new
house, which he sold, about 17d0, to Sir John, afterwards Earl
Ugonier. On tlie death of his nephew this place was purchased
of his coheirs by the Eaii of Carhampton, who, in 1807, bought
Pains Hill, and sold Cobham Park to Harvey Christian Camfae,
Esq. who now resides here.
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amtBBT. t07
^ In Ihe parish of Ebhbr is Clarem<mHi, the seat aod park of
Charlea Rose EUis, Esq. Here Sir John Vanhrugh/ so well
known for the heaviness of his style of architectore, erected a
house for his own habitation. The spot which he chose was low
ground, without the advantage of prospect Of Sir John it was
purchased by Thomas Holies Pelbam, Earl of Clare,. and after*
wards Duke of Newcastle, who made it his residence, and added
a magnificent room for the entertainment of large companies
whilst he was in administration. He enlarged the grounds by
farther purchases, and by enclosing parts of the adjoining heath,
■o that they now contain 420 acres. The duke adorned the park
with many plantations, under the direction of Kent. " At Esher,''
observes Mr. -Horace Walpole, " the prospects more than aided
the painter's genius ; they maiked out the points where his art
was necessary or not, but thence left his judgment in full posses*
sion of all its glory.'' On a mount in th park» the duke erected
a building in the form of a castle, and called it after his own name,
Clare Mount, by which appellation it has ever since been known*
After the duke's death it was purchased by Lord Clive, the con*
qneror of India. When setting out on his last voyage, he gave
directions to Browne, so well known for his taste in laying out
grounds, but who piqued himself still more on his skill in archi-
tecture, to build him a house, without any limitation in r^^ard
to expense. He performed the task to the satisfaction of his
employer, at a charge which is said to have exceeded 100,000L
Browne had been often employed to alter houses, but this is con-
sidered the only complete mansion that he ever built. It forms
an oblong square of forty-four yards by thirty-four. On the
ground floor are eight spacious rooms, besides the hall of en-
trance, and the great staircase. In the principal front a flight
of thirteen steps leads to the great entrance, under a pediment
supported by Ccvinthian columns. The situation is well chosen,
commanding various views of the water snd plantations in the
park. After liord Clive's death in 1774, this estate was sold for
not more than one-third of what the house and alterations had
cost.
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906 ffttfttST.
ooit It was pureliaaed by VisGoimt Oalway, wlio ^gaiii da«
po0^ of it to the Earl uf Tyroonnel; and by tbe latter it vaa
aold to Charles Rose Ellis, Esq. the present owner.
In this parish there vas formerly a manor belongiog to the
Bishops of Winchester. It was originally given by the Cooqaeror
to the abbey of St Leofirid, to find two priests to say mass here ibr
die soals of his predecessors; and H was afterwards sold by the
abbot to the Bishops of Winchester, who withdrew the chaatiy.
Here those prelates had a park, in whiefa William Wainflete,
when bishop, between 1447 and 1486, boilt a stately brick boute
on the bank of the Mole. His arms, with thoae of his see, carved
In stone, were placed over the gate*hoase, and in several olber
parts of the building. On the timber-work in the hall, not onlike
that of Westminster^hall, were several angels canred, snpportiBg
escutcheons, in two of which were scrolls, with THbi CkmU;
and in the windows frequently Sk Deo Gratia.^ Here the
bishops occasionally resided. Wolsey, when appmnted to tbe
see of Wmcbesler in 1628, ordered the house here to be re-
paired, and some parts ef it rebuilt, proposing to make it his
retreat when the king resided at Hampton Court Hither he
first retired after his disgrace, and continued finr several weeks at
this mannon, till he obtained permission to remove to Richmond.
In 1538, this manor was purchased of Gardiner, InAcf of Wiih
Chester, by Henry VIII. who made it part of the manor and
chace of Hampton Court In a survey of it, taken in the begin-
ning of the next reign, it is said that here was a mansion-house
sumptuously built; and adjoining to it a park, called Eskerpark,
about three miles in circumference, stodied with deer. On the
accession of Queen Mary, Gardinw prevailed on her to restore
this estate to his see, of which it was once more purduised by
Queen Elizabeth, who, in her twenty-fifth year, 1583, gave it
'to Charles Lord Howard of Effingham. This house and paik
were sold separately ftom the manor by one of tbe subsequent
proprietors. When this mansion was pulled down is not known.
la
• Aobrey, HI. X»,
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•tRRBY. SQ9
In 1729, when il was purchased by Thomas Pelham, Esq. bro-
ther to the Dnke of Newcastle^ nothing was standing but the
gate-honse, to which he made additions in the same style. la
1804 it became the property of I^rd Sondes, eldest son of his
daughter Grace, who next year sold the estate in parcels. The
house and park, containing about 150 acres, were bonght by
John Spicer, Esq. The former stood in a flat situation near tha
Mole. The additions made by Mr. Pelham were pulled down by
Mr. Spicer; bnt he has left the original gate-houso standing,
and erected a new mansion on elevated ground, which commands
a view of the park and of the surrounding country.
In what is now called Sandon farm in this parish, adjoining ta
the common, known by the general name of Ditton Marsh, was
once an Hospital or Priory, founded by Robert de Watevile in
the beginning of the reign of Henry IL Its possessions were
considerably augmented in the time of Henry III. by William de
Perci, who gave land and rents for the maintenance of six
chaplains. From Bishop Edindon's Register, as qaoted by
Lowth in his life of William of Wykham, it appears, that in the
beginning of 1349, the master and all the brethren of this hospital
died of the great plague which then raged in England, and swept
away half of the people, and nine-tenths of the clergy. Not-
withstanding the benefactions conferred on this institution, it
gradually became so reduced, that in 1136 leave was given to
the Bishop of Winchester to unite it with the hospital of St.
Thomas, Southwark.
The manor-house of Stoke IVAbernon has been, from a pe-
riod very little, if at all, subsequent to the Conquest, the habita*
tion of the lords of the manor, and for about two centuries the
residence of the Vincents. The first proprietor of that family
was created a baronet in 1620; and from him the title and estate
were transmitted to the late Sir Francis, who died in 1809, leav-
ing two sons both very young. The house has lately been mo«
demized and much improved*
VouXIV. P Pn
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210 SURREY.
On Stoke Common, in the same parish, about three miles vest
of Epsom, is Jessop's Well, celebrated for a mineral water of
the same nature with that of Cheltenham. Its svperior streogtli
appears from its crystals retaining their figure and firmness for a
year and a half after they have been formed ; and it is generally
obseryed to have an exhilarating effect, probably owing to the
steel which it contains. Dr. Adee, an eminent physician of
Guildford, in the early part of last century, ajiserted, that by a
steady and cautious use of this water, some of his patients bad
been cured even of obstinate scurvies,
Walton on Thames derives its name from the Romaa work*
which are in this parish. On St. George's Hill is a camp called
Casar^s Camp, a single work, with a trench running down to
Oatlands. The area is oblong, comprehending thirteen acres
three roods. In the opinion of the historian of Surrey, this was
but an ont-post to the greater camp at Oatlands, where he was
informed that it might be plainly traced beicNre the Earl of Lin*
coin, in the time of George II. levelled the ground and took in
the present park« The flat of the common, before the late inclo*
sore, between the camp and Oatlands' Pa^^ was called Camp
Close. A great bank and ditch ran from the camp down to Oat>
lands.
In this parish Ciesar is supposed to have passed the Thames
in pursuit of Cassibelanus at Cweay Stakes, so called from the
tradition that the Britons placed sharp stakes in the met to
obstruct the passage of the enemy, which Bede speaks of as re-
maining in his time. Gooffirey of Monmouth also makes mention
of them.* All that can be gathered from Cesar himself on this
head
* The words of these ancient writers wonderfully coincide with inromulioa
recent]/ obtained on the spot. The former says : *' Inde ad Sumen Tamesim
profectns est, qnem nno tantam loco vadis transmeabilem ferant. In bojus
vlieriore rip^ Casait>elano doce immensa hostiom nraltitndo consederat li-
paaqne floiainis ac poene totnm sub a^tt& vadini acotissiaiis MSKlibos pi«-
Ariniicta^
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.SURRSt. 211
[ iB^ tbat he led his army by the most direct way to the ter«
ritoties of Cassibelan^ which lay upon the Thames^ and were di-
vided by that river from the maritime states at about eighty miles'
distance from the sea, and that the river was fordable only in that
one place where he passed it.
The statements of ancient writers seem to be fully confirmed
by nudeniable modem testimony. In 1807, Mr. Bray was in«!
formed by a fisherman^ who has lived here and known the river all
his life, that at this place he has weighed up several stakes of the
size of his thigh, about six feet long, shod with iron, the wood
very black, and so hard as to turn an axe. The boats sometimes
run against them. The late Earl of Sandwich ns^ to come to
Shepperton to fish, and gave him half a guinea a piece for some
of these stakes. There are none in any other part of the river
that he ever heard of. One still remains which they have not
been able to weigh ; it is visible when the water is clear, and his
net has been caught and torn by it. His tradition is, that they
formed part of a bridge built by Julius Cssar, and he describes
them to have stood about four feet apart, in two rows, running
across the river, about nine feet asunder. It has been observei^
tbat in this situation they would not impede the passage of an
enemy who should ford it ; but Geoffrey of Monmouth says, that
they were phiced to prevent the passage of Ctesar's ships.''^
Anbrey was informed by the celebrated antiquary, Elias Ash-
mole, that the old current of the Thames had been changed here«
and that part of Middlesex opposite to this place was formerly in
Surrey, firom which it had been divided two or three hundred
P2 years
strinzerat, qDarom vestigia sudiam ibidem usque hodii vituntur ; et videtar
inspectantibus quod singuls earum admodam Aumafit /morts grofic rt ctr-
cumfvtg plumbo immobiliter hftreant in profondo flaiuiais infixe. (Beds
Eccl. Hist. L. 1, c. 2, p. 1 87.) ;
The latter observes ; " Prsterea alveo Tamesis flumiois quo ad urbem
Trinovantum Cssar navigattirus erat paleit ftrreit atque plumbatit inttnr
ftmorit grouii subter amneoi infizlt ut naves Julii fuperventur« advtntun
iKistium ezpectent. (HitL JUg. Britatu L. 4.)
* Manning aad Brad's Surrey, XL 759.
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Hi
8DERBY*
years before when a chnrck was swallawed up by the water.*
Of this eircumstance some tradition still exists ; for Mr. Biay
informs us, that in 1807^ an old man of serenty-five ackaowledgeil
baring heard that Sbepperton ehorcb was carried away by tbs
water, and the present chnrch bnilt in a new place f bat wben
this happened he eould not telL That the cnrrent has been in
some degree diverted seems actually fo be the foct, as there is a
piece of land on the Suvrey side, which is part of the parisli of
Shepperton in Middlesex ; but there is none on the other side
which is deemed part of any Surrey parish. This |Meee of Iaa4
called Cowey, lies near Walton-bridge, and contains between
eight and nine acres, and is used by the inhabitants of Shepperloa
only. Another meadow directly opposite to Shepperton Point;
on the Surrey side, containing between five and six acres, is aim
part of the same pari8h,t
Walton has a considerdUe fair for cattle on the Wednesday is
Easter week; and another of less consequence en St Peter's
day, held under a grant from Henry VIII.
In this parish are several capital houses. Apse Court k a
mansion, to which belong about 2M acres: 145 of these sie
inclosed by a brick wall, covered with fruit trees, which, with a
border round it, are lett to a gardener, the land in the .middle
being occupied as fields. It is the property of Edmund HiB, £iq«
In the Te9t0 de Nevii, we find that half a hide of land was held
in Apse of the king in capiie, by the service of distributing bread
and ale on All Saints' Day, for the souls of all the kings of Eng-
land. On that day the owner still gives a barrel of beer and a
^pmrter of com in bread to the poor.
At Hersham, or Hevers/iam, the celebrated William Lilly, the
astrologer, resided in a house which he purchased, and which,
«t his death in 1681, he devised to a son of Sir BolsUode Whit-
lock.
Bwrvoood Pork, formerly the seat of the Lattons, is ancle.
gant
* Aobtey't Snirey, IIL ^.
t Manauig sad Bray'f Surrej, 21. 7M
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SUKKKY. SIS
ftnt honae^ b«Ht by the present Sir John FredcridL in a park,
vhich^ with additional purchase^ made by him, contained 900
acres, without any road or foot-path, before the late inclosnre of
the waste ground,- which has added to it 160 acres. The amm
of lAtlon, and others, are in one of the windows.
BarhiU belonged early in the last centuiT' to Peter de la
Porte, one of the South Sea Directors, who, in 1720, gave it by
will to General Johnscm. It now belongs to his grandson, whese
lather, on succeeding to the estate of the late Skr Charles Kemys
Tynte, assumed that name.
Asklof, a mansion, with a park t>f 186 acres, was the seat of
Christopher Villiers, Earl of Anglesea, and afterwards the po-
perty of Sir Richard Pyne, Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, who
died here in 1710. It next belonged to the Earl of Shannon,
who left it to his daughter and heir, Grace, wife of the Earl of
Middleses. At length it descended to Henry Fletcher, Esip
who was created a baronet in 1802; and dying in 1807, was
succeeded in his title and estate by his son, Henry, who has
pulled down a considerable part of the mansion. The grounds
contain fir-trees of remarkable height and size.
The beautifiil grounds at faku Hill, which comprehend 213
ncres, were formed by the Hon. Charles Hamilton. A consi-
derable part of theae grounds on the north side was taken from
the barren heath ; the south side is a bank above the river Mole,
which runs at the foot of it. Availing himself of the inequalitit^
of the land, he made his plantations and placed his buildings
with the utmost judgment; and formed a spacious piece of water,
which, though considerably above the level of the river, is supr
plied from it by a simple, but ingenious, contrivance. ** There
may be scenes/' observes an author in his description of this
seat, '' where Nature has done more for herself; but in no plaoa
that I ever saw has so much been done for Nature as at Pains-hill.
The beauty and unexpected variety of the scene,^ the happy situ*
ation, elegant structure, and judicious form, of the buildings; the
ipurishing state, uncommon diversity, and contrasted groupagf^
P« ef
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S14 8I7RRET.
of the trees^ and the contrivanoe of the water, will not fiul to
awaken the most pleaaing fleoBatiom/' In the temple of Bao-
chus^ watt a fine antique colossal statue of that d&Xy, with
•everal excellent husts of Roman emperors ; and there was a
grotto fitted up with the finest spars. Mr. Hamilton indulged
the pnhlic with a sight of the beauties of this place ; and even
allowed the use of small chairs drawn by ponies, which were
provided at the inns at Cobham. In the latter part of his life he
aold this place to Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Esq. who, as the
original mansion was but small, erected a house on the brow of a
hill which rises from the bank of the Mole near the bridge. It is
a handsome white building ; the front, which faces the river, be-
ing adorned in the centre with a pediment supported by four co-
lumns, and bowed sides. When Mr. Hopkins died, this estate
was sold agreeably to the provisions of his will ; many of the
trees were cut down, and the gratification of viewing the beantiei
of this charming spot was refused to the public. It is now the
residence of the Earl of Carharapton.*
The first bridge over the Thames at Walton was built by
8amuel Dicker, Esq. It was of timber, which, in 1780, had
become so decayed^ that the nephew of Mr, Dicker, to whom the
property
* On the general character of tbe grounds belonging to this mansioD> Ho-
race Waipole, afterwardi Earl of Orford, Ih bis obserrations on gardeniug,
tays, that VVhateley distingnishcs three kinds of gardens : tbe gv^lcn wbich
connects itself with a park ; tb^ ornamented farm ; and the forest, or savage
garden ; bat that he has not sufficiently 'discriminated the third, " I mean,"
continnes he, " that kind of Alpine scenery computed almost wholly of pines
and firs, a few birch, and soch trees as assimilate with a savage and moan-
taiooas country. Mr. Charles Hamilton, at Pains-hill, has, in my opinio^
given ^ perfect eiample of this mode in the ntmost boundary of his garden.
.AH is great* apd foreign, and rude ; the walks seem not designed, bat cat
throogh the wood of pines ; and the style of the whole is so grand, and ooqt
ducted with so serious an air of wild and uncultivated extent, that when yo^
look down on this seeming forest, you are amaaed to find it contain only 9
faw acres.'*
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SURREt/ 215
pioperty had deTolved^ was obliged to obtain a new ac% for re-
building it, and taking additional tolls. The present struetnre is
of bricks and consists of four prineipal arches, with several small
ones on each side^ as well to avoid the incenvenienee of floods, as-
to make the ascent more easy.
In the church of Walton is a magnificent marble monument,
executed by Roubillac shortly before his death, for Richard
Viscount Shannon, who, at his decease in 1740, held the rank of
fiekl*marshal in the army, and commander in chief in Ireland.
Upon it is a white marble figure of a man in armomr standing,
with a truncheon in his right hand, his left resting on a pair of
colours, a sword at his side, and jack*boots,' a mantle thrown over
bis shoulders. There are various warlike instruments ; and at the
foot sits a whole length female figure embracing an urn with her
right hand. This monument was erected by his only daughter
Grace, Countess of Middlesex.
In the chancel of this church is interred the celebrated astrole*
ger William Lilly. A large black marble which covered his re*
mains lay before the communion rails, but has been removed to
the entrance of the south door of the chancel. It has this in-
scription : Ne oblivione contereretur uma Gulielmi Litii, Astro-
legi peritissimi qui fatis cessit Vto idus Junii anno Christi Juliano
MDCLXXXI, hoc illi posuit amoris monumentum Elias Ashmoie
Armiger *.
Here are also memorials for Jerome Weston, Earl of Portland,
wlio died in 1662; Sir Jacob Edwards, Bart and his lady ; she
died in 1739, he 1744; several ^the Rodney femily, and Henry
Skrine, Esq. LL. B. author of a Tour m WaUs, and ah Acctmnt
of the Principal Rivers in England, who died 1803, aged forty-
seven. Beneath the inscription on his monument is represented
in relief, a large oak overshadowing fskreening) some young
trees. In the church-yard are the tombs of General John Orfeur,
P 4 with
* fot an accoont of Lilly tee Beaoties, IX. i08— 4.
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ai6 8VR&BT.
inib aft inscriptioii iiMrly obliterated, and •f LieaftenaBt-gaiiexal
Francis D'Oyly, who died in 1803, aged fifty-two years^
In the chancel of this church are preserYed several bnas plate%
which serte to record a very singnlar feat of actiYity. That they
were once laid over a grave-stoBe is cTident, hot in what part of
the cJuirch is not known. John Selwya, the penMHi rqnreeented
on one of these plates with his wife and eloTen children io a pray-
ing postnre, and on the other seated on the back of a stag, hold-
ing by one of the animai's horns with has left hand, and with hia
right> plnnging a sword into its neck^ was, as appears by the
black* letter inscription, onderkeeper of the paik at Oattaods, ia
the reign of Qneen Elizabeth ; the boglc-horn, the insignia of his
office. Is apparent in both figures. This man, mooording to a
tradition, which seems, from the ooncorring tertlnaony of the
monument, to be welUfennded, was extremely Umo^M ix his
strength, agility, and skill in horsemanship, specimens ef all
which he exhibited before the queen, at a giand stag-hant in
that park ; where attending, as was the doty of his office, he, ia
the heat of the chace, suddenly leaped from his heme, npon the
back of the stag, both running at the same time with tlieir atmost
speed, and not only kept his seat gracefoUy in spite. of etcry
effitft of the aflrigbted beasts bat drawing his sword, guided him
with it towards the queen^ and when near to her plonged it iota
his throat, so that the stag fell dead at her feet *.
WsTBRiDOE, a considerable Tillage, is so called from the rirer
Wey, on which it atands not fiu* from its conflux with the
Thames. It contains in the whole about 1400 acres, of whieh
600 were inclosed under an Act passed in 1800. In the viUage
are some good bouses, and among the rest a large edifice, called
Haiitem Homse, from having been the occasional residence of a
prince of Holstein, who visited Sngland ; it has for some yean
beea
* Amii^. Rep. Edit. 1807, VoU I. p. ), where an engmving of the Itm
^atct if mifo gpveo.
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flimBBf. 917
beM used as a prtntkig-office, in which about aixly nen are <
piojed.
Oaikmds, in this paiishf was relinquished to Henry VUL by
the frmilyof Rede, in exchange lor the manor of Tandridge in .this*
cooBty. It was occasionally fisited by Queto Elizabeth; and
Ame^ aonaort of James I. here bnUt a room called the silk-worm
room.- Chailea I. in the second year of his reign^ settled this place
4m his Qneen. Henridta Maria» for her life. His yoangest son,
called in Us cndle Henry of Oalilands, was bom here, in 1640, in
file honse which Fnller says was taken down to the gronnd when
he wrote. This mansion stood in a low situation near the pre*
mmit kitch^i«garden, and was destroyed in the time of the Usdr*
potion, fg%,ceft some apartments inhabited by one of the Eails
ef Dorset; and the silk-worm room above-mentioned, then the
gardener's chamber. The park also was thrown open... Many
ieendations of bnfldings are to be traced on the spot where the
bouse stood, especially when it is sown with com. At the Re%
atoration the queen moth^ was again put into possession of
Oatlands in its dilapidated state, and after her death Charies IL
granted a lease of the estate to the Earl of SU Albans. It
came next into the possession of Sir Edward Herbert, Lord Chief
justice of the King's Bench and Common Pleas, under Jameii^
U.' whq|M fortunes he followed; and his interest in this estate
bemg forfeited by his attainder, William IIL granted the fee
mm^ to his brother Arthur, who had been bred to the sea, and
for his services created Earl of Toirington. Dying without issue,
in 1716, he devised his possessions to Henry, Earl of Lincoln*
George, son and heir of this nobleman, formed the gardens about
the year 1726, and probably built the house, which, at his deatb^
devolved to his brother Henry. The latter married Catharine,
daughter of Henry Pdham, Esq. and niece to the Duke of New-*
castle npmi Tyne, who, having no child, obtained a patent, creat-
ing him Duke of Newcastle under Line, with remainder to the
JBarl, hb nephew. He accordingly succeeded to this dignity in
I7«b^
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2U6 6URBBY.
1766^ and fixed hii residence at Oatlands, enlarged tfie park, and
made considerable plantationa. At the foot of tbe terrace ia m
large piece of water, formed by springs which rise in it. The
Thames is not seen, and Wahon bridge, which terminatea the
Tiew that way, seeming to be placed across this water, caaaeB
it to appear like a branch of the rirer, or rather like the river
ilMlf. On the side of the hill, between the hooae and the
kitchen*garden, rise some springs, which are formed into a small
piece of water : by the side of it tlie late Dnke of Newcastle eott»
stmcted a grotto, divided into three apartments; tbe ontside is of
a white stone fnll of perforations, perhaps the abode of fish, or
some species of marine aniraala, bnt whence brought is not
known. The sides and roo& are encmsted with shells andpelri-
ihctions. In one of the rooms is a bath, supplied by a small
spring dripping through the rock; at the end of it is a copy of
the Venns de Medici, as if going to bathe. In one of the wia-
dows are the arms of Cecil, with many quarterings encircled by
the garter and motto. Over this is a room incrosted in like oma«
ner. On the side of the park next Walton is an arch, probably
brought from the old house, on which is this inscription : Hemri-
euA Comes de Lmcolm hmc areum,"9pu$ Ignatii Janet, vetustaU
earruptum, restiiuit
The ownen of Oatlands had long held the nmnon an^ parka
of Byfleet and Weybridge by leases from the Crown. His
Royal Highness the Duke of York porohased of the Duke of
Newcastle the estate of Oatlands, and what was held ondcr
the Crown leases. He also bought the late General Cornwall's
house and estate in Byfieet, Mr. Paine's boose, called Brook*
lands, in this parish, and other lauds hero, and in Byfleet and
Waltou. In 1800, two Ads were passed lor inclosing the open
common fields, wastes, &c. in Walton on Thames and Wey*
bridge; under which Acts the Duke obtained hy aDotments and
pnrohases about 1000 acres of the wastes, so that the domain
now comprises about 3000 acres. The park of Oatlands containa
900, and that of Byfleet 000. Ptai of the paik is in the parish
«f
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KUftBET. 2lt
^ Walton, and pnri in Weyforidge, tlie house being in the
latter; but some of the oifioes in the fonner. The mansion
was burned down while the Dnke of York was in Flanders, in
17d3. The fire broke out in the night, by what accident was
nerer discovered, and the duchess and the servants escaped with
some difficulty. A new house was erected, of which Holland
iraa' the architect; and, in 1804, an act was passed for enabling
bis majesty to grant to the Duke of York for an adequate con*
■ideration the inheritance of so much of this domain as was hdd
of the Crown.
Ham is an old nmnsion, standing in a small park at the con-
flax of the Wey and the Thames. It formerly belonged to the
Howards, and was granted to Catharine, daughter of Sir Charles
Sediey, mistress of King James II. who created her Countess of
Dorchester *. She married David CoUyear, Earl of Portinore,
and from their issue is descended William Chares, the present
EarK This house is now uninhabited, and in a very ruinous
slate. It stands on flat ground, in a paddock bordered by the
river Wey. Near it are many large cedars and firs, the former
much
* This lady was a woman of a sprightly and agreeable wit, which could
charoi without the aid of beaaty« and longer maintain its power. The con-
aezion fornied before James's accession to the throne was continaed after
that eventy and the king conferred on her the honours of a peerage. Her fa-
tber» a man of high spirit, considered this title as a splendid indignity, and
was eitremely active in favour of the Prmce of Orange, sarcastically obaerv
mg, that be should do his utmost to make his Majesty's daughter a queen, aa
the King had made his own a countess. At length the priests, instigated by
Jaihes*s qaeen, prevailed on him to break off his connexion with the conntess,
who was ordered to retire to France, with the threat, that in case of her re*
fusal, her pension of 40001. a jear should be withdrawn. To this circumstance
It probably was, that Johnson alluded in these lines :
Yet Vane could tell what ills from beauty spring,
And Sediey corsM the form that pleas'd the King.
By the Conntess of Dorchester James had a daughter first married to James,
JM of Anglesea, and afterwards to John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham.
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SIWUT^
Buck brok^ by the weight of the bmw which feU in.the winter
of 1806-9, and lodged on them. One of the eedam is peifaa(fl
the Jargeit In England ; at fiye feet fron tiie gfooad it paeasorai
abont thirteen feet in dfeonfiuenee, and mna up aliaigfat to a
great heighi.
One of the parloon b a handsome room, in which hang po^
traits of the Gonnteaa of Dorcheiter, her hosband, the Earl of
PMnore, the Doeheaa of Drnvet, the Dncheas of Leeds, aadNdl
GwyuL In a room up stairs is a pietore of two.bays,. chttdren
of the Dachess of Dorset ; the rest are all taken down. la the
attic story is a room with a eoved ceiling, need by James II. ss a
ehapel ; within it is his bed^roooi, from which there is a pdfite
passage, and a place is shewn in which he coneemkd himsdf on
the advance of the Prince of Orange to Londftt* There aie seas
small enpboards, called bertaeks, as his gnards,) who anst hsfe
been very few, are said to have sl^t theve«
BrooUandg, a handsonm honse, steed on part of the hesth*
Ibnnerly a rabbit-warren, let on lease by the Omwn to Geeige
Payne, Esq. who «aa keqper of the lions in the Tower, aadbad
the appropriate appointment of ambassador to Uie Emperor of
Morocco. He here made large plantations, chi^y of Scotch
fir. The Crown refusing to renew the leaae, which woold ex«
pire in 1834, the remaining term was purdiased by the Dtake of
York, who polled down the house. The grounds comprdiended
about 300 acres.
. The Churchy dedicated to St. James, is small, but neat, heviog
a nave and south aisle, at the ecest end of which is the vaalt of
the Earl of Portmore's funily, built np abont fenr^feet ahoTe the
level of the pavement, inclosed with iron rails. Tliefe is noiiH
scription. Withiu hang a helmet, a spear, gauntlets, and several
colours brought from Gibraltar, by the husband of the Couotesa
of Dorchester, who is also interred her& In the chancel lies in-*
terred Sir Thomas Hopson, one of the British naval heroes at the
conclusion of the 17th, and beginning of the 18th century, who
jretired towards the end of hie life to this pla^e, where he died, in
1717,
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8UMSY. fll
1717, ag^ serenty-fite. lo the ehnroh-yard h also a mommient
for his lady^ and for his eldest daughter and her hosbaii^ Captain
^ohn Vfzfkjm, . commander of the Devonshire, vho fell in an en«
^agement vith a Fiench squadcon in 1707.
The Hundred of Blackhsath
b bounded on the east by that of Dorking; on the soath by Saa^
sex ; on the irest by the hundred of Godalming^ and on the north
by Woking, (t lies in the deanery of Stoke, has np market-towB,
and comprehends the parisiies of Albury, AlfoM^ Brumtey, Cran^
Uy, Dumfold, Ewkurst, Hoiomh, Si. Martha's, Shalftud^
Shire, and Wonersh,
This hundred remained in the Crown until 18 James L when
that king, by his letters patent, dated November. 13, l^SO,
granted it in tail male to Sir Edward Zouch, of Woking, Knt
marshal of his household, and in de&ult of such issue, in tail male
also to Sir Alan Zoucb, Knt Richard Zouch, LL, D. William
Zouch of Pitton, Wiltshire, and John Zquch of Codnonr, Derby«*
shire ; to have and to hold from Lady-day tiien last past, (t<»gether
with the manors of Woking, Chobham, and other lands, tene-
ments and hereditaments) by tbe service of carrying up the first
dish to the king's table, wheresoever he shall be in England, ^aa
(bxt feast of St. James, aej^t after each person shall succeed to the
inheritance, and also of payiiig 2001. of coined gold, of the coin of
tiie kingdom of England, in lieu of all services whatsoever.
By an indenture bearing date February 23, 1672, Cbailea IL
granted the reversion of this hundred, and the estates above-
mentioned, for tbe term of one thousand years from the ensuing
Michaelmas, in trust for Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, and her
issue by him : and by virtue of this grant she became possessed
of them in 1706, on the death of James, grandson of Sir Edward
Zouch, without issue. The duchess died in 1709; and in 1715,
the property included in the grant was conveyed by ftte tnia*
tees to John Walter, Esq. of Bnsbridge, in Godalming, on whose
death
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33S StTRMt.
death in 1736, it descended to his son Ahd. The latter haviagv
in 1748, obtained from the Crown a grant in fee simple of the r&»
▼ersion and inheritance on the determination of the aforesaid
tenn, sold the same in 1752, to Richard Lord Onslow, at whose
death, in 1776, it descended to George Earl Onslow, the present
proprietor.
Aldbcjbt is supposed to derive its name from some ondeBt
woik of note; a conjecture which seems to be confirmed by tite
existence of some remarkable remains of antiquity onBlackheath,
in this parish. Here, on a plain about a stone^s tfaiow from the
road to Cranley, is the platform of what is generally considered to
have been a Roman temple. In Aubrey's time the foundations of
this edifice were as high as the banks by which it was sunonnd-
ed ; but that writer informs us, that, about 1670, it wan dug up for
the sake of the stone and brick, -and that many Roman tiles of a
pretty kind of moulding, some with eight angles, as also several
Roman coins, have been fi>nnd hereabouts, and in other parts of
Blackheath. Mr. Bray, who visited this place in 1803, tnforma
OS that the spot is marked by a square bank twenty-two yards on
each side, covered with short grass instead of surrounding heath.
It occupies the centre of a square piece of ground 220 yards on
each side, just ten times the size of the site of the building, con-
taining ten acres, on the west side of which is a double bank, and
a ditch perfect. From this Inelosnre on the north and south sides
a single bank runs eastward ; but there is none on the east side.
On digging into the banks they were found to be full of fragments
of Roman tiles, some having a raised ledge on one side, and mor-
tar. Among them was also thrown up part of a stag's horn, and
a small piece of a little urn.
AUtbury Place was purchased in 1696, of the Duncumbes, by
Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, and was the residence of hia
•descendants, the Dukes of Norfolk. His grandson Henry, we
are told, pulled down the old mansion, and erected a noble pile
on its fonndation, cutting a canal about a quarter of a mile long,
and. sixty feet broad, and planting a vineyard above it of twelve
acres.
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SURBST* 22S
teres. One of the nuMt remtrkaUe works which he undertook
here was the formation of a passage through the hottom of a hill
160 yards in length, and of great height and breadth, which was
intended for a "way to the house ; but a rock at the south end
premented the design. In 1678, this place was sold to that dis*
tingnished lawyer Heneage Fiuch^ afterwards created Baron of
Guernsey, and Earl of Aylesford. His successor, who in his
Other's life-time represented this county, made Aldbnry his con-
stant residence ; and being much attached to rural sports, he took
great pains to multiply the breed of pheasants, which before were
rare in this neighbourhood, though now they are very abundant
By the grandson of this nobleman the estate was sold to his bro*
ther the Honourable William Clement Finch, who expended a
considerable sum in repairing and fitting up the house, and en«
larging the grounds. He died in 1794, with the rank of ad«
miral]; and under his will the estate was sold in 1800^ to Samuel
Thornton, Esq* one of th& representatives for this county, of
whom it was purchased in 1811, by Mr. Wall, the present pro-
prietor, who is erecting a handsome building for stables at some
distance from the house.
The old mansion was burned down in the time of the first Earl
of Aylesford. The present is an elegant structure; the principal
front is adorned with eight coupled Ionic columns, supporting a
pediment It was considerably altered and improved by Mr.
Thornton. Tbe park, a beautiful piece of ground, finely wooded,
and abounding in particular with stately diesnut-trees, com-
prehends 260 acres, but was fgrmerly more extensive. Within
the inclosure, near the foot of the chalk-hill, rises a strong spring,
which forms three ponds, called Shirebum Ponds: tbe water is
remarkably clear and c<4d, and is conducted to supply the basin
and fountain in the garden.
Westcn House, in the same parish, was erected by Abel Al-
leyne, Esq. who died in 1727. His executors sold this estate to
Robert Godschall, Esq. At his decease, in 1742, it devolved to
his only brother Nicholas, who left it to bis daughter. This lady,
in
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tM 8UEBBT.
in 17fi2, married Williaa Man, Esq. Hho added the name ef
Godschall to his owd^ and their only snniving 8oii> the Ser.
Samuel Mao Godschail ia tlie present owner.
Near the parsonage is another estate, called Weston, hvt the
mansion and part of the land lie in the parish of Shire. This
uras some time the residence of Elias Ashmole, the celebrated
antiqnary ; it afterwards belonged to the family of Schaw, and
' was purchased in 1804, by the Hononrable Robert Clive, dnm
whom the grounds have received considerable alterations and !»•
provements.
In the Church, which stands in Aldbnry Park, are two remait«
nble octagonal pillars^ placed upon circular bases of Sttscfx mar-
Ue, and supporting the arches which separate the nave from the
aisle* They have mouldings, and appear to have belonged to
some other structore : it is possible that they may have been
brought hither from the Roman temple already menttoned ; ftr
Camden observes, that the basev of some pillars were stiB remun*
lag there in the age preceding that in which he wrote. The font
is square, of Sussex marble, and supported by a round {^lar of
the same material, which, from the measure, seems to have been
part of the shaft of a column belonging to one of the bases in the
ehurch.
This church contaias many monuments of the hmWj of Daa-
cumbe, fbrmeriy proprietori of Weston House. In the ohaacd U
a black marble pyramid decorated with the civic Insignia, in-
scribed to the memory of Sir Robert Godschail, who, at hia death
in 1742, was Lord Mayor of Iiondon, and one of the represen*
tatives for that metropolis. Here also is interred, but without
any memorial, William Oughtred, a celebrated ttathonalician of
the seventeenth century, who, according to Collier, died in an
ecstacy of joy on hearing of the Restoration, in June 1660, aged
86 or 8t.
In the parish of Craklby formerly stood the qpacions mansion
of tiie lords of the nmnor of Shire, called Vaeherie, as being
their principal grange, or dairy-farm. Of this edifice long since
9 demolished^
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JtemoUdiedj nothing ii now disceraible bat some remaiAs of tb«
foundations^ and of the moat by which it wte encompaBsed, Tha
honse> with part of the paik, was sold by Sir Edward Bray in
the beginning of the serenteenth century^ and afterwards becama
the property of the Onslow family, to which it belonged till fv^
ohased by the singular, bat worthy Thomas Day, Esq. from whom
it descended to Mrs. Day's nephew, Thomas Lowndes, Esq. tha
present owner.
Baynardi, another estate in this parish, formerly behmged to
the Brays, but is now the property of Earl Onslow. A considers-
ble part of the mansion remains, but has been converted into a
farm-house. The painted glass which formerly adorned the win-
dows has been removed by the noble owner to the chnrch of West
Clandon.
^ The mansion of Knoll, which manor likewise belongs to Earl
Onslow, is sitaated, as the name implies, on an eminence. The
greater part of the old structure has been demolished ; bnt the
remainder, converted into a farm-house, has undergone little aU
deration. In a west wing is a large and well-proportioned par-
lour, wainscotted in fluted pannels^ the ancient chimoey<piece oif
which, adorned with various rude ornaments, is sUll entire. In the
centre are the arms of Sir Richard Onslow, who died in 1664,
carved in wood; and over the chimney-piece is this inscription:
JESTATE FRieKO, HYEMB INCALESCO.
In the windows of the chnrch are yet to be seen some curiona
remains of painted glass. In the window of the Vacherie Chapel^
which is of tracery work, are the figures of our Saviour, and of
two angels holding censers ; and in another, in the Knoll Chapel,
are various figures of the Kings of Judah crowned, with scrolls in
their hands, denoting in Saxon capitals their respective names.
These ibrmed part of what is called the root of Jesse, being a tree
issuing from a figure at bottom, and the branches inscribed with
figures and names of the different descents of Christ from David.
In the centre is a sitting figure, the head gone, and in the hand a
white rose. In the centre of the top was Christ nailed by the left
VoL.Xiy. Q * hand
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326- SURREY.
band and feet to the cross ; and below a female 6giire atandiRgv
which is yet perfect *,
Thomas i>£ Cranley is conjectured to have been a native
of this place. He was educated at Merton College, Oxford, of
which University lie became Chancellor in 1390. In 139B, lie
accompanied Thomas Holland, Duke of Surrey, and lord lien-
tenant of Ireland to that kingdom, where he was appointed Arch-
bishop of Dublin, liord Chancellor; and at length Chief Justice,
or Deputy. In 1417, being then eighty years of age, he r£*
turned to England ; and dying at Farringdon, in Beiicshire, was
buried in New t)ollege Cliapel, Oxford. Leland speaks of this
prelate as a person of excellent genius, and a persuasive writer,
and adds, that he had seen a poetical composition by him of great
elegance and merit ; and from which he also conjectured that he
must have possessed considerable learning. It was a poetical
epistle, containing 106 verses, addi^essed to King Henry Y. te
.whom he complains of the refractory behaviour of the Irish un-
der his administration*
In the parish of HAScaMB, southward of the church, rises a
high and long woody ridge, commanding extensive views on
every side. On part of this eminence, called Castle Hill, are
the remains of a small Roman camp. The works are single, and
the area almost square, as the ground admita of that form. Here
was some years since erected a telegraph, which forms part of
the line communicating between London and Portsmouth. The
soil of this hill is peculiarly adapted to the growth of beeches;
one of those trees, of extraordinary dimensions, is known by the
aame of Jiasc^mb^Beech, and may be seen at a great distance
jround.
^ St Martha's on the Hill is a small psrish about two miles
aouth-east from Guildford. The church, or chapel, as it is called,
occupies the summit of the eminence, where it presents a con-
spicuous object Its form was originally that of a cross ; and the
materials of which it was constructed are a rude composition of
flittts»
• Maimios's S*ntj, VoL I. 540.
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iimU, and uiiwroaglii stones, mixed with hard Aiortar. lo the
west end is a circular arch, which has eyidently heen lately re-
paired to preserre it from entire demolition ; and above this is
thfe appeaxwice of another arch of the same form and dimen-
^sions. The whole of the nave is in a most minons state, and
without a roof; hut the choir and transept are kept in repair,
and used for divine service by, the inhabitants of Chilworth. On
the east side of the south transept are the remains of a hand«
jiome Gothic window, tiow filled up ; the great east window was
likewise pointed ; and in the north transept appears a low door
with a circular arch, but no regular style of architecture is
visible in the building. That it has long been in a state of de-
cay may be inferred from a memoir of Bishop Wainilete, extract-
cd from his Register, and dated May 20, 1463, when '* forty days*
indulgence were granted to such as should resort to it on account
of devotion, prayer, pilgrimage, or offering ; and should there
say Pater-noster, the AngePs Salutation, and Apostles' Creed ;
or should oontribute, bequeath, or otherwise assign, any thing
toward the maintenance, repair, or rebuilding, of the same."
From the same memoir we also learn that this edifice was dedi-
cated to St, Martha, and all Holy Martyrs, and that the hill on
which it is situated was called Martyrs' Hill. Hence it seems
probable, that it was a chauntry over the graves of some Chris-
tians who suffered on this spot. This conjecture is the more
plausible, as it is not likely that a building originally designed
for the ordinary purposes of religion should have been erected
on a place so difficult of access, and so inconvenient for the
parishioners; and it is farther confirmed by the grant of the
bishop's indulgence to such as should go tliither on " pilgrimage."
- In the parish of SAalford is Shalford House, the seat of H.
E. Austin, Esq. which contains many good pictures, some of
which are from the pencil of Annibal Caracci, Yandyck, Reu-
beos, Vandermeiilens, Sir Peter Lely, and other fint*rate mas--
ters.
Q 3 8mRB
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998 fttJKRST.
Shire is a village agreeably aitualed at the seaihem fool o^
the range of chalk hilli^ on the TUliagboiin, a branch of lb«
Wey.
One of the manors of this parish was given by Henry VIl*
to Sir Reginald Bray, who was au active histrmiient in procoring
his elevation to the throne. Under that monarch he filled many
high and important stations ; and in the chapel of Si. Ctoerge at
Windsor, and Hem7 the Seventh^s at Westminster, the deaigii
•f which is attribated to him, he has left lasting monamenla ol
his liberality and taste in the polite arts. Holinshed^ after sseD^
tioning his death, characterizes him as '' a verie lather of hia
eoontrie; and for his high wisdom^ and siagolar Inre to jostica
well worthie to beare that title :''. and adds, '' that if any thing
had beene donne amisse coutrarie to law and eqoitie, he would
after an humble sort, plaiuelie blame the king, and give him
good advertisement that he should not onlie referme the same,
bat also be more circumspect in any other the like case/' He
died in 1503 ; and, in pursuance of his will, this estate was pos->
aessed by his nephew Edmund, who was afterwards knightedj
and from whom it has descended in a direct line to Willianl Bray,
Esq. the present proprietor. This gentleman, the indefhtigable
editor of the History of Surrey, resides at High House, a neat
mansion near the church, and has by purcliaae renniled the manor
of Shire Ebomm, an abbreviation of £6oraciisi, (so named frmn
Ha having belonged to the house of York.) to the possesslans of
his ancestors. Mr. Bray has all his life been improving his
grounds, the planting of which he has carried on to a €6nsider«
able extent on the hills behind his residence, in a manner nol
less creditable to his taste than to his spirit These eminenceii
command extenaive apd delicious views, particularly over Ihe
south-western parts of the coonty«
NetUy House, in this parish, is the aeat of Edmund Shallet
Lsmax, Eaq« whose extensive plantations crown the hrow of Jhe
hill which overlooks the village.
The Church, dedicated to SU James, is a hamhome and snb«
f stanttal
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•UHUKT. i^
0lialU edifice, eoMisting of a nave^ elmncel, and south aisle.
Ttie- steeple haying a tpire partly oovered with lead, and partly
with shingles, stands in the centre, and contains six bells. 0»
A% Borijli 8i4e of the- nare is a small chape), in the window of
tlhiah are three-red roses, and one white. In one of tlie windows
of Ike sovth aisle-arepainted the figures of hemp^breakers, being
the ^ke of Sir R^naM Bray ; and in that of the chancel are
four esenteheoas, with the arms of England, Ormond, Warren, and
Ohre.
In this chnreh are some sepnkhral memorials of considerable
antiquity. On a marble in the chancel is an inscription for a
rectOf of this parish, who died in 1412; and another for the
youngest daughter of the fourth Earl of Ormond, who died in
1435.
Here also was an dtar-tomb of marble, now laid even with the
floor* bearhig the effigy of a man in complete armour, and a grey«
hound sitting- between his feet, having a collar about his neck,
with a chain attached to it. The lower part of the figure is now
lost. ' Fn>m two iragments of an inscription on brass plates, which
went round the upper edge of the table, we learn that it was the'
tonb of John Lord Aodley, who died in 1491. These fragments,
though torn off, are still preserved in the parish chest, and contain
the following words, in Mack letter character :
. . . vif dominns Johannes Towchet quondam ....
. . . , d'n's de Awddey qui obgt vicesimo die mens. . . •
Aid>rey says, that the coats of arms three on each side, and one
at the head, had been stolen when he wrote *.
In this church are also memorials of the Duncumbes, who have
for four generations been rectors of this parish, ever since the
year 1669, and several for the fiimily of the present lord of the
Q 3 manor,
* An Engraving of this monotuent ia given in GoHgh^i Sepulchral Afomt*
menu, VoL IL Fl. CXXIV. p. S7H, and in Muining'i History of Surrey, on
one pbte with a door in the sooth porch, the north and cast windows, and
ftnt of tfaif charefai Vol. Ui p. 5S5.
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dM ftO&liEY.
mtiior, whoie gitndfiilher and faUier aie iiit«n»d in iht soitk
chaucei ; and his two brothers, wife and daughter, in the cLurcb'*
yard.
WoKEUH was, in the aevenleeuib centary, a place of cooti-.
derable note for its cloth manu&ctores, which have longsiflce.
gone to decay. The trade chiefly consisted in making Uoe,
cloths for the Canary Islands ; but it was mmed by the fraadaleot
practices of the manufacturers, who found out a method of stretch-
ing their pieces, which should have been 18 yards in length, toi
32 or 23 yards, by which the cloth was rendered nmoU thinner,
i^nd consequently less durable.
Green Place, situate near Wonersh church, ia the mansiou of.
Lord Grantley, whose fiitber made considerable additions to it,
and laid some adjoining lands into the park. It was forveriy
the residence of the Eliots, who afterwards removed to Busbri^
near Godalming. Early in the last century it beeaase the pnn
perty of Sir William Chappie, one of the Judges in the Cosrtof
King's Bench, whose daughter, Grace, became at length his cole
l^eir. She married Fletcher Norton, Esq. of Grantley, m the
county of York. Bred to the bar, he became one of the most
eminent amoqg i^e counsel of his time, was appointed Solicitor
General in 1761, and Attorney Geqeral i^ 1763. In 1769 be was
made Chief Justice in Eyre south of Trent, chosen Speaker of
the House of Commons, in 1770, and in 1782 elevated to the
peerage by the title of Lord Grantley, Baron of Markenfield ia
t|^e county of York. He died in 1789, and was succeeded by l^ia
eldest son, William, the present proprietor of this place.
T0£ Hundred of Godalvino
is bounded on the east by Biackheath ; on the south by the
cpunty of Sussex ; on the west by tiie hundred of Fanibam ; and
on the north by that of Woking. It belongs to the deanery of
Stoke, and contains the following parishes : Chidingfold, Comp-
ion, Erting€bv, Godalming, Hamildan, Haslemere, Peper-
fiarrow, Puttenham, Tfmrsley, and Witle^.
King
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8DB11CY. ^HH
' King Henry'H. f n tbe second year of his reign, gave tbis hMK
'dred, together with the manor of Godalming, to the chweb of
'Salishury^ in exchange for the castles of Devizes and Rndes
(EarlstokeJ in Wiltshire, belonging to the bishop of that see.
-By his successors it was held till 3d Henry VIII. when it-waa
conveyed to Sir Thomas Ptoton, Knt. and by bim to the king
in 1542. At length, in 1601, it was granted by Elizabetii, with
=all its appmrtenances, to Sir George More, Knt of Loieley, ham
whom it has descended to James More Molyneox, Esq. tbe pre»
sent proprietor.
COPALMING,
which gives name to this hundred, is situated on tbe south bank
of the river Wey, and on the edge of a considerable tract of mea>
dow ; or, in the language of our Saxon ancestors, an Ing, from
which circumstance, and from the Saxou proprietor of it at some
early period, it undoubtedly derived its name, being therefore
called Godkelm^s Ing ; and, by i contraction of these two words
into one, Godheiming, or Godelming, a name at once descriptive
of its situation, agreeable to the known custom of deriving the
names of places from their proprietors, and at the same time
exactly conformable to the most anciently received manner of
writing it. Such is the coi\jeoture of Manning,* which certainly
seems much more plausible than that of Aubrey, who derives the
name from a certain Saxon lady called Goda, from whose libet
rality in bestowing it upon some religious house, he supposes it
to have acquired the appellation of Goda^s Alms, or God-^dim*
ing : especially as it is known for certain that this lordship was
never in the possession of any religious body, till given by
Henry II. to the church of Salisbury. Equf^Uy unfounded is
the idea that this was once au episcopal see, with its bishop,
dean, and canons. The Bishop and church of Salisbury were
formeriy proprietors of this manor : his canons, and at length
fbeir dean, were even before that possessed of the rectory and
Q 4 advowson ;
* • HUtory of Surrey, I. 60i.
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las MIRAEY.
wivtmwou : tke housos hi CkoreiMtoeet are lor tiie
witbin the Dean^s naaor of the fectory, which ie celled Hut
Dean'e Hold; and finally, the proprietor of Loedey has of late
yean been lord of this naiior: and from these cirnimetenflea^
partly miscoDceiTed and partly mieapplied^ haa ahem the nia*
take. A» to the bridge cded Biehop'a Bridge, a litde to the
H9ith of the town on the London road, it doabtkBa receired its
name, from having been repaired or tebailt by some one of the
Bishops of Salisbiiry while the manor resunned in their handa.
At the time of the Domesday Survey, William the Coa^peror
was proprietor of the lordship of Godalming, as Edward the
Confessor had been before him. It remained in the Crown till
granted by Henry II. to the Bishop of SaHsbnry, in exchange
for other possessions. The successor of this prelate obtained itt
1294 a grant of free warren throughout this manor ; and in 1300
a farther grant of a weekly market on Wednesday, and of a fiur
to be held annually on the festival of St. Peter. In 50 Edward
411. a charter was obtained, by which various imnranities wt^re
conferred on the town, especially an ememption from the payment
of tolls. The see of Salisbury had been in possession of thia
manor upwards of 400 years, when, in 1542, it was conveyed iia
King Henry Vlll. in exchange for other lands, and was vested
in the Crown, till Queen Elizabeth, in 1601, granted it, together
>i»ith the lordship of the hundred of Godalming, in considemtion
of the sum of 13411. to Sir George More, Knt. of Loseley, in '
whose descendants it has ever since remained, being now the |
property of James More Molyneux, Esq.
The town of Goddming, thirty«four miles from London, coifr-
sists of a principal street, running nearly east and west, and j
several smaller ones. The great road from London to Porta- j
mouth passes through it, as also the roads to Petworth and Chi* |
Chester. The mannfacture of cloths and kerseys formeriy fiov- !
rished at this town, as well as at Gdldford, and other plaeea in |
the neighbourhood ; but of late years has gone very moch la
decay. The business principally carried on at present is the
manu&ctons
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■HMnfibcbire of aiUi and wontedloi fkodMigV «^<'v^ &e« A.
miumfitrtare of hrvNwL uid nairow dioUi ms tet, ap< tbmA thirty
yeaiB ago> lnitdi4 wt nioci^;raad in 1797 Mr. GMlhold greeted
a buldiDg for «piiiiiing fotUm^ bwt it was aeivr lu^ for tiutt
pwpoae; a Bttftiifiuitiire W" flaaiiel: and kaiz^ Ming* afterward*
established ia it. • la the Ticiaity of. the. place ar» thrae paper-
lailb^ and aoaie otbera. lu 18DX tUa.t(igvtt:aii4paEiahisaBtaiBed
616 heaflea,raiid 3400 iahahitanta..
By ai^ act /Qf .ParliaKieotf faaaedin l7fiP, i tha oavigatioa of the
river Wqr was .extended, aad oeatiiiaed ireayi GaiUlbrd taCkn
dahniog, partly by meaas-of the eld ehanneU and partly Irjr new
eats,, to the greiat benefit and ivproTeaient of the town and ad^
jacent eoantry> -whence timber^ planks hoopa» bark« flour, paper,
and wroaght iron of Tariona aorta, are aent in oonalderabla
^aantitiea to l4>adon« There are fear locks on this naYigation.
which waa completed at the* expense of 80001. raised by sub^
aeriptien.
The Bridge orer the Wey at this place fonnerly belonged to
the lord of the manor, who shat it against carriages of eveiy
sort except in time of flood ; bat in 1782 an act of Parliament
was obtained to make it a county bridge, with the consent of
Mrs. M olynenx, the then proprietor. The present ^tmcture waa
in consequence erected^ and was opened for public use in 1783.
The weekly market, first granted by a charter of 28 Edward
I. (1300,} and confirmed by a subsequent one of 17 Elizabeth,
is held on Wednesday. The lurs, of which there are two, are
kept on the 10th of Joly, and 13th of February.
By a charter, dated 17th Elizabeth, 1576, the inhabitants of
this town were incorporated by the style and title of the warden
and inhabitants, with all the rights and priTileges belonging to a
body corporate and politic ; tbe warden being annually elected
on Michaelmas Day, out of the eight assistantaf as they are
termed.
The Church, dedicated to St Peter, consists of a naTe with
two aiale^i a. channel,, acfamted by atrans^t» in the centre of
which.
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934 SCRRKY.
vhicb, upon firar strong arches, is erected the steeple. The
greatest length of the whole building is 117 feet» snd its breadtt
48. The steeple is an ordinary spire of timber^ covered with lead^
and contains eight bells. The roof of the nave^ the south chain
eel, and part of the north aisle. Is diTlded into panoels, widi
small frames of wood, in the jnnotnres of which are placed ▼arioo
coats of arms, and other devices of the nobility, and otiien whs
had probabi J contributed to the repairs of this edifice. Among
these are tho letters H« R. crowned, the Prince of Wales's crest^
the red and white rose conjoined, and the arms of Bi^aad aad
France in a garter, as borne by Arthur, Prince of Wales ; whence
it is conjectured that this wainscot ceiling was put up in the leign
of Henry VII. and before the year \6M, in which Prince Arthur
died. In the east window of the chancel was fomierly extant
this inscription : AM pro aatau lltuM 4Cftlmi 8* which renders
it probable that the king himself was a contributor to the wotk.
Here are numerous memorials of the Eliots of Bnsbridge, and
the Wyatte of Shaklefbid. On a white marUe tablet, with a
small urn over it, against a pillar in the nave, is an inscriptiou
to the memory of the Rev. Mr. Manning, the historian of this
county, who is int^red in the chnrofa-yard, with a head-stoae, on
which appeara this epitaph :
This stone
is erected as a token of that respect and esteem
so justly due to the Memory of the distinguisbedly
worthy Man whose remains are deposited here.
The Rev. Owav Man king,
B. D. Canon of Lincoln* Rector of Peperbarrow^
Vicar of this Parish upwards of 37 yeacs ;
also F. R. S. and F. A. S.
He departed this life the 9tb of September, 1801,
in the 81st year of his age.
All his Professional Duties were discharged with
great Punctuality and Efficacy; and his
Deportment through life was an amiable Example
of ^at Rectitude of Conduct and unlversd BeneT(rfe&c6
ss
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•OIKSV. 2M
' «o perfecdy coDibkeDt with tboie evaqgelical Trutlit
which he had to long* to ratiooaUy, aod lo forciblyy
impmbed upoo his Auditors*
r In the chancel of the Konth aisle, nnder an nrn of white ner«
Ue, IB also an inscription in gold leitera on black marble* *' to
Ithe memory of Nathaniel Godbold* Esq. inventor and pioprietor
f f that excellent medicine^ the Vegetable BaLsan, for the core of
eonanmptiona and asthmas. He departed this life the 17th day
of December* 1799* aged 69 years."
On the border of the common called Peasi^men^ about three*
garters of a mile from Godalming on the road to Guildford* is an
Alms^kofut, a plain brick building, irith a small ohapel in the
centre, and a vailed garden behind it. On the outside* over the
door of the chapel* are the arms oft the founder* and undemeatb
this inscription :
^Thi*
* Hr. Manning was the mo of Mr. Owen Manning of Orlingbvry* in tba
eognty of Nortbampton* where he wai born. He was educated at Queen's
CoUege, Cambridge, and whilst at tbe Unireraity fell sick of the small-pox*
and was sapposed to be dead. His body was laid out for interment, when
his father, who was at Cambridge, went again into the room, and withotft
seeing any canse tor hope, said ; " I will give my poor boy another ehance.'*
At the sane time he raited him up ; the motioa hotaiitly prodaoed signs of
life; proper means were employed, and he was restoaad to bis friends and
tbe world. In 1760 Dr. Thomas, to whom be was chaplain, gave him tbe
preben^ of Milton Ecclesia, in the cathedral of Lincoln ; in 1763 he was
presented by Dr. Greene, Dean of Salisbury, to the vicarage of Godalming;
and in lT69y by Viscoant Midteton to the rectory of Peperbarrow. la
1767 be was elected F. R. S. ; and in 1770 a Fellow of the Society of Anti-
^naiies. Ue expressly forbade bis family to erect any monument for him ;
bot snch was the esteem in which he was held by his parishioners* that some
of thff principal of them erected the above-mentionied tablet to his memory
in thechorch ; and some private friends placed the head-stone and inscription
in tbe cborch-yard. He married Catharine, daughter of Mr. Peacock of
Hnntingdon, by whom he bad three sous and six daughters. She survived
him ; and for her benefit tbe materials which he bad collected for a History '
^Ssney were arranged for the press by William Bray, Esq. oA Shire.
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" This Oflpytall i^ai gimii by Mr. Ricbaad^ WTAtr, ^Jjmdtm^
Esq, lor teon foora Men, w^ aofieieBl Li»b ta It for y«i>
Vaynteiiance for of«r/'
1622.
OQ'Uw sMitli mU of the ebApel vithiD b a hnm pkte, «
ipiiich we ongnvfed the igvres of m man and womaB kseeliag^
with an altar between them^ and three children with eaeh. Be«
hm te aaothf r iMeriptiott, coauneflMratiTe of the fanndar^ who
died ID 1619.
Henry Smith, wboae bene&etiona have been-ao freqaenlly mea^
tiiNiad, gaT« to this pariah, in hie Kfe-time, lOOOL which waa
laid oat in the pnrehaae of a frnn at Unsted, in the pariih ef
Shalibrd, now let at 731. lOa. the prodace of which ia &«ril«led
half yearly ferthe-benefit of the poor, agreeably to die direetioDfl
afthedonor^
Godalming is remarkable as having been, in 1726» the acener
ef one' of the grossest impostnres ever practised on hnmaa cre-
dulity, which the celebrated Whiston regarded as the accon«
pliafamebt of a prophecy, and which at the time occasioned
considentble discussion. The principal actor in this Ihroe was
Mary Toft, a poor illiterate woman of this town^ who pretended
to be delivered of live rabbits, and managed mattera with each
deaterity* as to make even medical men her dopes. The pnsa
teemed with pamphlets on this phsniomenon, an aoooantof which
waa given to the world by Mr. St. Andr^, anatomist to the Royal
hoQsehold, and in high credit as a surgeon, who even promised
to gratify the public with the anatomy of these '' pnstematural''
rabbits, and their figures taken from the life. This ridicnloua.
affiur furnished Hogarth with the snbject ol one of his satiiical
prints, inscribed : Catiicirfartt, or the Wise Men of Gedlimaa in
CoosdUatioQ; in which two of the principal figures are Mr. St
Andr£, and Mr. John Howard, suigeon of Guildford, by whom
the rabbits were ushered into the world. It was not long^ ss
may easily be imagined, before the artifice of the pretended rah*
hit-breeder waa detected. The historian of Snrrey remaiks, that
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39»
** Br. Bulleyn, wbo wrote about tho middlo of Ibe sixteenth
eentnry, has recorded a popish juggle so much resembling this*
that one would think Toft's tutors had read and improTed npoft
it, atf much as seventeen yoang rabbits prodnced by one womail
€811 eacceed a Ml-grown cat with bacon in iU belly, bronght hM
the world by a bntcfaer^s danghter at Harborongh.'*
JEoMng", a hamlet in the parish of Oodalmtng, vitoated on
both sides of the Wey> about a mile and a half iiom the town, w
aopposed to be the iEsc-ing given with other estates in thift
•odnty by King Alfred in his will to his nephew iEthekn. Here
stood a mansion formerly known by the name of Jordan's, and
some time the property of the iamily of Tichboorn. In 1729;
Sir Henry Joseph Tichbonm, Bart sold it to Eara Gill, Esq.
who built the present elegant and commodious structure ; and at
his death, in 1736, left it to his eldest son, William, tbe present
proprietor*
In Bushridge^ or more properly, Bu$kbtidg€ Park^ is a
mansion wbioh formerly belonged to a family of the same name-
by whom it was sold in tbe latter end of the reign of Henry VIIL*
to that of Eliot, which continued in possession till the year I710i
It was then purchased by John Walter, Esq. of Barbadoes; and
in 1748 became the property of Philip Carteret Webb, Esq. a
distinguished lawyer, antiquary, and member in4wo parliaments
lor Haslemere. He died at Busbridge in 1770, and his reUci
•oU the estate to Sir Robert Barker, who was created a ban>nc4
In 1T81, and also ^ed at this place, which is now the properly of
Henry Hare Townsend, Esq. This mansion contains many first-
rate pictures, among which is a Madona with the in&nt Jesus,
and St John, by Raphael, and seversl by Teniers, Vandyck,
Rembrandt, Tanderveh, and others. Hie dining-room is adorned
with a large collection of the best productions of Morland's pen**
oil ; besides which, Mr. Townsend possesses many capital pieces
by masters of the modem, school, as Foseli, Westall, Dance,
Thompson, &c.
Hasle-i
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Haslkmere
ill a BBiftll boroagh ftnd murkel-towii in the Booth-west angle et
Ihe coanty* where it borders upon Soasex and Hampshire. Tra^
dition rdates that it fonnerly occupied the side of the hiU to the
southward of the present town, and was a pla«^ of ooosideiaUe
exteat till mined by the incolrifions of the Danes, bat on what
adtbority does not appear. From the ancient writers of ov as*'
nals, we know that those rovers committed great depredations ib
these parttf, and even made themselves masters of the connty t^
wards the conclusion of the ninth centory, hat no mention i»
QUide of this place in parttcolar. In 1801 the town and pariaiir
contained 132 houses, and 642 inhabitants.
Haalemere, thongh it has distinct pariah oficers, is hut a paio«
chial member of Chidingfold, and fonns part of the manor of
Godalming, of which, as we have seen, the bishops of Saiisbvry-
were lords Irom 2 Henry II. to 33 Henry VIIL Whilst in their
possession, John Waltham, bishop of that see, obtained a charier
in 17 Richard II. for a market to be held here every Wedneaday ;
and for a yeariy fiitr on the eve and day of the featival of tiie Holy*
Rood. These grants were confirmed by the charter conferred by
Qnera Elizabeth in the 38th year of her reign, with the addition'
of another fair to be heU on the festival of St Philip and St
James, and the two following days ; and by the same insUymcat
the tdls of these fairs and market were to be applied to the relief
and support of the poor burgesses of the plaoe : bat no com haa
been brought to market for many years, so that the toll prodocoi
nothing.
The greater part of the handet of Haslemere is within thft
manor of Godalming ; but there is a manor of Haslemere eo-ex«
tensive with tiie limits of the boroogh, which waa the propertf of
the Mores, and passed with that of Godalming tiU 1784, wheft
the tmsteesi under the will of Thomaa More Molyneax» Bs^ soU
it, together with many fireeholds in the borough* to Sir Jamea Low*
ther, afterwards Ear! of Lonsdale. He at the same time par*
9 chased
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efc^Aed ttith ^neeBolds as had b^n the pfopert^r of Pliillp Carteret
Webb, Esq. and General Oglethorpe.
Haslemere sends two members to Parliament, and has enjoyed:
this prWflege, as expressed in the charter of Queen Elizabeth/
from time beyond memory ; though Willis says, that it first re^
tamed them in the 27th year of her reign. It has been decided
that the right of election belongs to the freeholders within the
borongh and manor, exclttsive of any lands or tenements which
are, or have been, part of the waste or stand upon it The bailiff,
who is annually elected at the court-leet, is the retnming officer.
This place was ^e scene of many very expensive and violent
contests before the union of interests in the Earl of Lonsdale^
mnce which time there has been no opposition.
The Chapel, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, stands on a rising
ground at the north end of the town, and is very small, having
only a nave and north aisle, separated by a range of circular
arches. At the west end is a small square tower with five bells.
In the east window is some painted glass in nine compartments.
In the centre are the Virgin and Child, and Joseph in the stable;
at the four comers the four Evangelists ; at the top is the Resur-
tectioo, on one side the ark, on the other ^dam and Eve at the
forbidden tree, and at the bottom Bt Paul's vision, Saut, Sauh
quid penmpuru me ?
In an Almt*haMse on the common adjoining to the town, and
thence called Alms-hinue CoiHmcn, a few poor people have ha«
bitations;. but since the decline of the tolls they receive no illow'-
ance.
' Peperharrow, th^ noble mansion of Yisconnt Midleton, in
the parish of the same name, stands in a beanttful park, finely
Wooded, and watered by the river Wey, which runs through it
in its passage from Famham to Godalming. The late lord had
pulled down the old mansion, and begun to build a new one, but
4ied in 1765, before it was completed. The present nobleman
finished it when he came of age, and has much enlarged. his
grounds
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giouidt by diArem* pwdiases. ThisoufflniMiiUBalsoftftkaL
sloping down to the river, ihelter^ ott the north by rifiBf
grounds coTered with plantatioBS* irbioh aIso farm a proteotiim
on the east It coMists of aa entnuiee ball 33 feet by 21, anda
bKakfikat^oom oa the nortti-eatft aide. On the narth-wcai i*
a bed«cbanber and diesaing-roeBi; On the aoiith-ireat n a
libiBry, 33 feet by 24» oentaining a very valnable ^eoUectimi «f
bQok% and a lady'a dreaaing room. On the aonth-easi ia a dia^*
ing-foon 32 feet by 22, and a drawing^oom 42 feei by 28L
The roona on thia floor are all 17 feet high. They ase adoiaed
with many capital pietvna by the first maateis ;. and^^^anyeri*'
ginal pertraits,. among which are the Emperor Chmlea V* by
Titian, Bishop Baruet, Baebaoan, the first Lard Jiid]elop> Sir
Tfaoaua Brodriek> the late Admiral Brodrick, &€.. Theofiifces
OB the nortii*weatside oCthe hoaae are concealed by planlitiosft
The ooach^bonaea and stahka are at a small distasoe in. a court
166 feet by 122 The conservatory is lo the west of the beoM^
fronting the aonth* alittle rennved firom the bank, whidi 0T6r-
looks the river. The lutchca-gaidett^ with hoUhiKiaeiw contani
about three acm.
At PmUatkam^ % smstlL parish northward of Goddming, i»
PmiUnkaM Prmy; the aeat of Adaund Coniiah»* wUob standi
q»poaite to the church. It was purchased by him in 177d of
Thomaa Parker, .Baq« who ooaverted the old madaioii-faoase ioto
a modem one by means of allenilioas and ^diti^na, aod foraed
a paddock' of ^fty.*foar acses^ which he omamoited with plaata*
ttons. The west front of the house is adorned with CorinthiaB
eolnnms, finishod by a pediment; and the north front iralio daoo-
ruted wM& pilaatora and oornitse^
T»
* ThU gentleiiiui*! paternal name tras Pitcbford ; hut on the death of his
nncle^ Sir Sanael Comuh, Bart who led him a considerable part of faU fo^
tiioe, he awimed that name. He lerved nnder his unele in the expeditioa
agahist Manilla In 176S ; and oommmided the Atiogaat ia Lord Roda^'*
yictorjr of the Ifth of April irat*
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SUARXT. Ml
THB HimDRED OF FARNHAIt,
the smaHert in the county^ occupies its 8irath*west corner, hein^
boQiided OD the north by Woking ; on the east and sooth by
€rodalming; and on the west by Hampshire. It is ineladed in
the deanery of S^he.
The present hundred of Famham corresponds with the district
which in Domesday Book is termed the land of the Bishop of
Winchester. Throughout this traot there was then, as now, no
other parish, properly speaking, than that of Farhham; the han^
lets of Ekied, Sele, and Frensham, with their appendages, being
nothing more than chapelries under the rector and church of that
place. The first of these, indeed, is thrown by the editors of mo-
dern surveys into the hundred of Godalming ; but earlier writem,
who were more correct in these matters, have placed it where
it is rated in the county books, that is, in the hundred of Farn-
bam. The Bishop of Winchester is lord of the hundred ; and th«
courts are held at a house a little northward of Famham castle^
vulgarly called Lady House, i. e. Law Day, or Leet Day
House*
Farnham«
which gives name to the hundred, is situated not far from the
north bank of the Wey. It consists of one principal street, run-
ning nearly east and ^est, containing many excellent houses, and
some smaller ones branching off to the north and south. In. 1801
the town and parish comprehended 473 houses, and 2508 inha«
bitants.
Farnbam was formerly remarkable for its cloth manufacture;
and while this continued, it is known that the culture of hops^
though it might have been introduced, was not carried to any
considerable extent. As the manu&cture declined, and removed
from Farnbam to some of the neighbouring towns, the culture of
hops advanced and took its place. It is not easy to ascertaia
Ihe date of this change in the occupation of the people of Fara-
VolXIV. R ham;
* Hamung't Sumy, VoL I. Tntrod. iIt.
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242 SURREY.
ham ; but if we nuLy credit tradition, corroborated by variona A^-
cnmatancea, it was about the middle, or rather towards the aid,
of the seventeeiith century. Aubrey, however, positivdy as-
aexta that the person who first planted hops here brought
that husbandry out of Suffolk seventy-six years before he wrote,
which would fix the date of their introduction at the end of the
sixteenth century.
It would be a curious and interesting subject to ascertain, if
possible, how long the Fa^nbam hops have borne th«ir high chsf
racter and price ; at what period they became so famons ; and to
what circumstance they were first indebted for that peculiar mode
of management by which they command a price so much siqperior
to what is given for the produce of other districts. '' On this
point, however," says Stevenson, '* I could learn no facts or cir-
cumstances which would lead even to a probable or distant con^
jecture.*'^^
So much is certain, that since the beginning of the kst cen*
tory the number of acres occupied by hops is nearly trebled ;
they now cover about 900 acres, and the demand for plants is
annually increasing. Several varieties of hops are here grown;
but the best, and that which is cultivated to the greatest extent,
is the whitebine grape-hop, which was first raised from a single
cutting about fifty years ago by Peckham Williams, Esq. of
Badshot Place, near Famham, who would never suflfer any other
sort to be grown in his plantation, which is still kept up by that
alone. It has gradually extended into the neighbourhood, and is
found to be the most profitable variety on all good lands ; it is
much esteemed for being a large hop, full of condition,t and of a
pleasant delicate bitter.
The largest of the hop plantations about Farnham is below
sixty acres; and in general they do not exceed ten or twenty.
In
* SuFT. of Agrie. of Sorr. St7. •
t Hops that are foil of condkion. on being robbed bard in the liaiid, emit
a dsgiee of odoar, and dtsclote a degree of clamminess, which are univer*
aallj sdoiitted m a criterion of their ttrength. MsrshaU's South. Cooni,
I>»t.
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suRRBy. 249
Id a remarkably lavoraUe seaaoD, a toa, and even twenty-ibiir
iinndred weight, have sometimeii been pulled off an acre of the
very best grounds ; but the average produce of lands of middling
^quality may be laid at about six and a half hundred weight per
acre. Some of the best land employed in the culture letts aa
high as twenty pounds per acre ; good land for twelve or four*
teen pounds ; and inferior at from six to ten pounds. Some sea-
sons are celebrated at Famham both ibr the great quantity and
the superior quality of the hops. In 1778 there was a very
large crop : but that of 1801 was still more abundant In thai
year out of 16,000 pockets at Weyhill Michaelmas &ir, 6000
were from this place ; and the prime Pambams were all cleaned off
in about four hours. In 1803, when the crops were good, tli«.
average produce of this parish was estimated at seven or eight
hundred weight per acre. The price of hops varies as much
as the produce ; but the Famham pocket hops are commonly
one-third above those of the other districts, and sometimes
fetch nearly double the price. The great mart for the Faruham
hops is Weyhill fair : here they are chiefly bought by dealers to
be retailed to private families, by whom they are preferred oa
account of the paleness of colour, and delicacy of flavor, which
they give to malt liquor. Every pocket b stamped with a parti-
cular device, which is changed every year, and the Parnham
hop-growers bind themselves under a severe penalty not to put
any other hops than what are grown about that town into the
pockets thus marked,
Mr. Stevenson, in his enquiries into the causes of the reputa-
tion and peculiar quality of the Famham hops, comes to this con-
clusion, that they arise solely from their being better sorted an4
cleaned, and from their being picked before they are fully ripe.
To the latter circumstance alone he ascribes what is termed their
superior delicacy, which he seems inclined to call weakness;
but he maintains that the high price which they fetch is not so
much commanded by the soil, the management, or the delicacy
ff the produce, as by the name which they have acquired ; since
R2 ^ the
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fi44 «tRREY.
the growers of other iliatricU, where the rent of land b not so
enormoosly high as at Fkrnham^ though they might prodace the
quality of the hops of this place, yet, iirom being deprtired of the
tiame, would not be able to undersell them.*
The manor of Faraham wi^s given by Ethelbald, Kii^ of the
West Saxons, to the see of WinchestBr, to whieh it has ever
since belonged. The loitfu sent members to P&rliaaMBt ia the
4th and 5th of Edward II. but was probably one of the plaoes
which voluntarily relinquished this privilege, in thoae daya c«fr>
sidered as a burden. Though not a c<«poration, it ia gofvenied
by twelve masters or burgesses^ out of whose number two bailift
are annually chosen. These magistrates, who aet under the
Bishop of Winchester, to whom they pay an acknowledgoMnt of
twelve»penoe per annum, receive the profits of the &irs and mar-
kets, and hold every tliree weeks a court, which has power to
try and determine all actions under the amount of forty shtlUugSL
The market here, was anciently held on Sunday, till in the reign
of King John it was removed to Thursday, on whieh it atill con-
tinues to be kept It was fororerly one of the greatest oom-mar-
kets in this part of England. The town has three annual fiurs,
en Holy Thursday, Juue 4, and November 13, for horses, cattle,
sheep, and hogs.
The Castie, seated upon a hill, on the north side of the
main street, was originally built by Henry de Blois, brother of
King Stephen, and Bishop of Winchester. This fortress wan
seized by Louis, the Dauphtu, and the rebellious barons, in
1216 ; and some* years afterwards razed to the ground by Ueniy
III. It was, however, soon rebuilt in a style of great magnifi-
cence, with a deep moat, strong walls, and towers. During the
civil war in the seventeenth century, this post was garrisoned
for the king by Sir John Denham> high sheriff of the county:
but, in December 1642, it was taken by Sir William Waller,
after a siege in which the edifice su&red greatly ; and such
parts of it an remained entire were blown up by that generaL
In
• Swftj or Agrie. of Sum J, 370—374.
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8U&11EY. 245
lo 1648, ihe Commons directed an enquiry to be made into the
condition of this castle, and gave orders that it should be com-*
pleitely dismantled, and rendered incapable of defence. After
the Restoration, Dr. Morley, Bishop of Winchester, expended
80001. in rebuilding and repairing this edifice ; but in the work
he displayed neither skill nor judgment, the present structbre
being neither handsome nor convenient It is quadrangular, era-
battled, and built of brick, covered with stucco, excepting the
tower at the west end ; und seems to have been patched up out
of the building disidantled by order of Parliament It is one of
the mansions of the Bishops of 'Winchester, and contains a fine
library, and some good paintings.
Contiguous to this edifice are some remains of the keep of the
ancient castle. It was a polygon, of no great area, seemingly
hexagonal, and flanked by towers now demolished. Grose in-
forms us, that in 1761, When the view of this relic v/as taken for
his AniiquitUs, a flight of stairs led to what was the first story
of the building, where there was a kind of platform, elevated
about twenty feet from the ground ; and that the remains of s6mft
chimney-pieces in the ruins of the towers were still visible from
this spot* The walls were uncommonly weak, their thickness
scarcely exceeding two feet ; they were chiefly of stone, inter*
spersed here and there with brick. The whole is yet surrounded
with a strong stone wall, at the foot of which is a moat, now dry
and planted with oaks. Adjoining to the castle is a pleasant park
of considerable extent, watered by the little river Loddon which
rises in this neighbourhood.
The Church, formerly a chapel of ease to Waverley Abbey,
standing, at a little distance southward from the High-street, is
an extensive fabric, apparently erected in the latter end of the fif-
teenth, or the beginning of the sixteenth, century. It consists of
a nave, which is continued to form the chancel, with a north and
south aisle. All the windows, which are numerous, and that at
the east end large, are adorned with tracery. The tower is re-
Ra markablj
• Grose's Antiq. V. 91.
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2M SOMIBY.
markably sttbetantial ; it has a small turret at eaeh comer, and at
tbe-west end yet remains a bracket, which seems to hare supported
a niche for an image. The interior contains several handaoise
monuments, and has a good painting of the tirel?e apostles for an
altar-piece.
The MarkiUHimte is said to have been originally erected it
the eiKpense of a Mr. Clerk, an inhabitant of the town, which hai
also a Free-School, and a good Ckarity^SchooL
This town gave name and birth to Nicholas de Farnham,
who studied physic at Oxford, Paris, and Bologna. On his re-
turn home, after a residence of some years on thte continent, he
soon acquired such reputation, that Henry III. appointed him
his physician. In this post he gave great satisfaction that the
king, who, among other favours, conferred on him the bishopric
of Chester, from which he was translated to that of Durham. The
latter he enjoyed nine years, when he resigned the mitre for the
pleasures of retirement, reserving three manora for his support
He died in 1257, leaving several works on the practice of physic,
and the nature of herbs, whidi were highly esteemed in that
age.
Moor Park, about two miles south-east of Parnham, the resi-
dence of -■ Timson, Esq. was originally the seat of Sir Wil-
liam Temple. Here that celebrated statesman breathed his last ;
and 80 attached was he to this retirement, that, by his own direc-
tions, his heart was buried in a silver box under the san-dlal ia
his, garden opposite to a window from which he used to Gonten-
plate and admire the beauteous works of nature. Moor Park it
also remarkable as the place where Swift, who here resided with
Sir William Temple as his secretary, 6rst contracted his intimacy
with his beloved Stella.
The house, a large white edifice of simple architecture, stands
on the west side of the park ; which, though not very extensive,
affords several scenes most beautifully romantic About three
quarters of a mile from this mansion, is a remarkable cavern,
known by the name of Mother LMdlam*s Holt. This grotto lies
halfoy
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SCBASY. M7
iialfway down the tide of a hill covered with wood^ towarda the
aottthernmost extremity of the Park. It seems to have been hewn
oat of the sand-stone rock, and to .have increased conaideiably
in its dimensions since it was described by Grose. The greatest
height of this excavation may be about twelve feet, and itf
breadth twenty ; but at the distance of about thirty feet from th^
entrance it becomes so low and narrow as to be passable only by
a person crawling on hands and knees. Its depth is donbtless
conbiderabie, but has been much exaggerated by vulgar report.
Its coarse is not straight forward; but at some distance from the
mouth it turns to the left, or to the north. The bottom is paved,
and has a passage in the middle for a small stream of clear water,
which issues from thjs bottom of the cave. Two stone benches,
placed one on each side, " seem to invite the visitor to that me*
ditation for which this place is admirably calcalated. The
gloomy and uncertain depth of the receding grotto, the gentle,
miurmnrs of the rill, and the beauty of the prospect seen through
the dark arched entrance, shagged with weeds, and the roots
of trees, seem to conspire to excite solemn contemplation, and
to fill the soul with a rapturous admiration of the great Crea-
tor.'' * From the Annals of Waverley it appears that this ca*
R4 vem
* Grose's Antiq. V. Ul.-^The same writer gives the following ■nrasiug ac*
const of the vajgar tredilion respecting Hie origin of diis cavern :^" This
place," says hf, " derives its name from a popalar story, «^hich makes
it formerly the residence of a white witch, called Mother Ludlan, or Lnd*
low ; not one of those malevolent beings mentioned in the V^twuntckgie, a
repetition of whole pranks as chronicled by Glauvil, Baxter, and Cotton*
Mather erects the hair, and closes the circle of the listening rustics round the
village fire. Ihis old lady neither killed hogs, rode on broomsticks^ nor
made children vomit nails and crooked pins, crimes for which many an old
woman has been sentenced to death by judges, wlio, however they may be
vilified in this sceptical »ge, thereby certainly cleared themselves from the
imputation of being wizards, or coninrors. On the contraryi Mother Lod*
lam, instead of injuring, when properly invoked, kindly assirted her poor
neighbours in their i^cessities, by lending them such culinary utensils and
household furniture as they wanted on particular occasions. The business^
was:
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S4S SURREY.
vent waB ibmwd in 1216, for the purpow of coUeeUng the serent
adjfteeiit spriags of water for the use of the monaBtery not above a
quarter of a mile distant.
Wanerley Abbey, contigaoos to Moor Paik^ is the residence of
John Thompson, Esq. It is a modem mansion, low, hnt neat,
consisting of a centre adorned with Ionic pilasters, and two wings.
The ascent to the principal entrance is by a double flight of stejis.
Near the house are the rains of the monastery from which it de*
rives its name.
This abbey, placed io a charming situation among sandy and
heaAy hills, on the bank of the Wey, was the first Cistertian
convent in Ehgland. It was fonnded in 1128, by WiHiam G^
lird. Bishop of Winchester; and first inhabited by an abbot and
twelve monks, from a foreign house, called Eieemosyna, The
founder, by his charter, granted them all the land of Wavertey for
ever, with its appurtenances; also two acres of meadow at-Hele-
stede (Blstead) with free pannage ibr their hogs in the wooda of
Fflfrnham ; likewise wood for their house, both for fuel and other
necessary uses. These and other benefkctions were confirmed
by the king, and by the bull of Pope Eugene III. which farther
exsmpted them from the payment of tithes, and declared all soch
excommuuicaied as should molest, or unjustly take any thing from
them.
From the Annals of Waverley *, it appears that at one time,
about
was thus transacted :*— the petitkmer went to the cave at midnight, turned
three tinitt» round, and thrice repeated alood, PrajF* good Mother Ludlanii
lend lue such a thing, (naming the oteusii) and 1 wiJl retsm it within two
days. He or »he then retired, and coming again the next morning, foand at
the entrance the requested moveable. This intercourse eontinoed a long tioei
till once, a penon not retummg a large cauldron at the stipalated tine^ M»
dain LndJam was so irritated at this want of panctuaJitj^i that she refused to take
it back when afterwards left at the cavern ; and I'rom tliat time to this has oot
accommodated any one with the most trifling loan. The story «dds» thai the
cauldron was carried to Waverley Abbey ; and, after |he dissolotioo of IbK
HKHMstery, deposited in Frensham church.
* Printed by Gale in his HisU Angl Script, Vol. II.
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«!boat the end of Ibe twelfth ceDtnry^ lihere wme in Ai& abbey
seventy monks and 120 coBverts. From its low sitaatioii, it waa
several times exposed to rlolent inimdalioBs^ Ih.l203^ so gieat
a famine prcfvailed in this part of Engfam^^. that the monks were
Ibroed to rq^ir to44her*religioa8 hoisses. for a tuhsisience; bat in
Hhe same year William de Bradwater began' the Ibandation of the
new'chnrch. In- 1210, King* John raised so before a perseentioa
against the monks otthe CiMeftlaiy order, that the abbot of thk
house was obliged* to withdraw secntly by nighty flie religioaa
were dispersed, and ' theoonysnt was plundered and Ml desolate.
In 1278, the new dmrch was finish^, and consecrated by
Nicholas de Ely, Bishop of Winchester, who treated most nuK
nificenfcly all who lesorled thiiher, and was, in 1280, interred in
that edifice. The annals terminate with the year 1292. At the
Dissolution the clear annual teVennes of this establishment were
estimated at 1741. 8s. 3d. and in 28 Henry VIIL the site of the
abbey and all Hs possessions were granted to Sir WUliam Pitz-
wiHiam, treasorer of the honsehold, and soon afterwards created
Earl of Southampton. The estate has since passed through many
hands, and was purchased by the present proprieti»' of the late Sir
Charles Rich« Bart, who is said to have expended 4000L in im«
provements at this place.
The remains of this abbey, overgrown with venerable ivy, ex«
tend in detached portions over a surface of three or lour acres.
The elegance with which the buildings w^e finished renders it
a matter of regret, that the greater part of them shonld have been
pulled down for the materials by the Coldhams and Mr. Child,
while proprietors of this estate. The ruins of the great church
prove that it must have been a spacious and magnificent stme-
ture; at present only part of the south aisle remains, with the
corner-stone of the chancel, or tower. In the middle of the
nave is a stone coffin, with black and yellow tesserv, and ferther
eastward another, with a cross fleuri. Part of the refectory,
dormitory, and cloisters, are also standing, as was in the last
century a large handsome chisel, and the hall, with a range of
t low
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low ilender piilan ia Ike middle. In tfce memory ct penAm yet
liTing, the windowi contained a considerable quantity of painted
glaaa, which has heen gradnaUy destroyed, and suflfered to go to
decay. Stone coffins and other sepnlchral remains have fineqnenlly
been dug op near the ruins; and in 1731 were founds in a stone
locolus, two leaden dishes soldered t<^ther, containing a human
heart well preserved in pickle, supposed to be that of Peter de
Ropibus, Bishop of Winchester, which, on his decease at Fara-
ham, in 1238, was buried here.
In the vestry of the church of Frbnsham hangs a hvgpe cop-
per cauldron, hammered out of one single piece. The ridicu-
lous stories propagated by the vulgar respecting this cauldron
have already been noticed ; but antiquaries themselves have been
puzzled to account for its origin, and some have supposed that it
was brought hither from Waverley Abbey, after the Dissolution
of religious houses. On this subject Salmon observes, that " the
great cauldion which lay in the vestry beyond the memory of
man was no more brought thither from Waverley, than, as re-
port goes, by the fairies. It need not raise any man's wonder
for what use it was, there having been many in England, till very
lately, to be seen ; as well as very large spits, which were given
for the entertainment of the parish at the wedding of poor maids;
BO in some places a sum of money was charged on lands for them,
and a house for them to dweU in for a year after marriage. If
these utensils of hospitality, which drew the neighbourhood to
contribute upon so laudable an occasion, had committed treason
as the property of a convent, they had not been too heavy to be
carried off."* In the porch of the same church is deposited a
stone coffin, removed thither from Waverley, which may have sng*
gested the idea that tlie cauldron also came from that place.
On an extensive heath, about half a mile from the church, is a
large piece of water, known by the name of Frensham Great
Pond. It is accounted three miles in circumference, and much fre-
quented by wild fowl during the winter season.
Tail
* Salmott's Amiq. of Siinej.
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UP
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tommsT. 251
Thb HvivDRBD OT WoKnr«
lies on the west side of the county, and is hounded on the east hy
Emley Bridge and C<^thorn ; on the soath by Godalming and
Blackheath ; on the west by the oonnties of Berkshire and Hamp*
shire, and en the north by the hundred of C^ertsey.
The lordship of this hundred was granted 18 James I. with thai
of Blackheath, to Sir Edward Zonch, and was transmitted through
the same hands to Earl Onslow, the present lord. It belongs to
the deanery of Stoke, and contains seventeen parishes :^»A, Easi
CUmdtm, Weft Clandan, Gmldfard, East Horsley, WestHors^
ky, Merrw, Ockham, Pirhnght, Ripley, Send, St^, fVan^
harough, fVmdiesham, ffhhy, Woking, and WarpUsdan.
GuiLDTOftD,
the county town of Surrey, is large, well built, and agreeably
situated on the side of a considerable chalk hill, on the east bank
of the Wey, thirty miles distant from London. In its present
state this may justly be considered one of the best inland towns of
its si^e in the kingdom. It consists principally of one capital
street, measuring something more than three furlongs; the spa^
ciousness of which, with the declivity of its situation, exhibits a very
striking appearance, particularly to strangers. In 1801, it con-
tained 464 houses, and 2634 inhabitants. This place gives tho
title of Earl to the noble family of North.
By which of our ancient kings the privileges of a corporation
were first conferred upon this town cannot now be determined. It
is, therefore, a corporation by prescription, and is considered as
such in the eariiest of its written charters, which is that of Henry
ill. A. D. 12M. The privileges granted by this instrument. have
been confirmed and extended by many succeeding sovereigns.
The town is governed by a mayor, recorder, seven magistrates^
•ml n number of bftilifls which is indeterminate^ bat seldom or
never
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282 tUUtBT.
never exceeds twenty, by the style of the mayor and approfed
men of Guildford, who hold a conrt ev^ three weeks, and are in-
Tested with the power of adjudging criminals to death at their ge-
neral sesidont.
Gnildfi^rd has ^setot members to Parliament ever since 23 Ed«
ward' I. The right of election is in the freemen and freeholders of
the borough paying seot and lot^ tt^d resident wittin Us limitB,
irhich scaitely include one half of the town.
Theaisizcs ibr the conaty are held here alt^nately with King-
ston and Ch>ydon ; and the election for knights of the shire dU
>rays takes place in this town. It has a weekly market on
Saturday, at which great q[uaiititiet of eom are exposed for sale,
and which is plentifully supplied with all other necessaries; and
two annual fidrs on May 4, and Notflliiber 2, for hoises, cattle^
sheep, and hogs. The spring fair in 1800, was attended by an
extraordinary number of cattle ; the sheep and lambe alone amount-
ing to 90,000.
We meet with no accoonts of this town either in Britiali or Ro-
man annals ; neither do we find any meution made of it in Saxon
history before the death of Alfred, A. D. 900, when that prince
bequeathed it by will to Ethelwald, bis n^hew, on whose rebel-
lion, or death, it reverted to the Crowu. It appears to have been
royal demesne at the time of the Domesday Survey, wh^n the oo«
eupants of tenements in the town were 175. Tradition states,
that the ancient town was situated on the west side of the river;
and this account, though not confirmed by positive evidence, is
countenanced by circumstances which have led Manning to adopt
these conclusions : that, at the time of the general Survey, the
tenements in question constituting the ancient town of Guildford,
were situate on the west side of the river; that the castle was
erected on the east side at the only spot Capable of receiving it;
that, in process of time, as the occasions of the new fortrew
Induced people to settle in its neighbourhood, houses were gra-
doally buih in the void space above and below it, by the Testard
fomily« to whom the lands on that side had been granted^ and
who
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•UUtET. Hlfi
yil^o dm. erected Uie two clnircbeg of Trioity 9i4 St. Mary lor
their tenants ; « aod tliat» on the demolition d the fortification and
outworks of the castle, (whetieTer that b^ppe^} the present
High Street fuose out of kh^ materials famished inua tMr rains.
This opinion is farther eonntenanced by names still in nse here;
.the road, on the east side of the river being at this day called the
\Bury, i. e. Burgh Lane, as having probably been the Borongh,
jor main street; and the a4Joining fidds formerly occupied by
other houses, gardens, &e. of the inhabitants the Bwy, or Burgh
fields.
The rest of the. royal demesne that lay on the we^ side of the
river was reserved for the king's priva^ use; and being im-
parked by Henry II. soon, after his acc^on, .was;pccqpied by bis
successors for many generations under the name of the Ktng^s
Manor. Of that which lay on the east side some was swal*
lowed up in the tract of ground afterwards occupied by the castle:
some was alienated, and as it seems by the Conqueror himself to
the fitmily of T^tard, by whose successors it was afterwards called
the manor of Poyle ; and the remainder disposed of to make room
lor the Friary.
So much of the royal demesne of this place as remained un*
alienated by the Conqueror and his successors was sfterwards
known by the name of the King^s Manor. From its neighbour*
hood to the capital this could not but be considered as a convenient
place of retirement, and as such was occupied by our princes in
.very early times. The first step taken with this intention was
by Henry II. who, soon after his coronation in 1154, inclosed a
eonsiderable tract of land on the north side of Guildford Down,
and converted it into a park. In his time also there was a mansion
house in the park, probably first erected by bim ; and here he fre«
quently kept liis court.
From the time that this place became the occasional residence
of our princes, certain wants of the household, on its removal
hither, were supplied by the tenants of Crown lands in the
Jioighbonrhood. Some of these tenures afibrd a curious illnstm-
tion
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3154 SCTRRiY.
tion of the mumera of the ag<e. Thvs, Robert the «m of WiBiaai
Testard, in the time of Henry III. is called Custos meretrUum
in curid damini Regis. Robert de M ankesey, alias Gatton, ift
termed MareschaUtu custwiiendo meretr%ce$ de curid dmmint
Regis ; and Mareschallus 12 pueUamm quae sequuniur curiam
domini Regis. Hamo, his son and heir, is styled MaresdiaUus
meretricum, cum daminus Rex venerit in ilHs partfbus ; and
Hano, the yoonger, Maresduilus de cmnmumbus ftamms #»•
quentibus haspitium domini Regis *.
Gaildford was, therefore, the occasional residence of many of our
kings, till, in the reigu of Charles I. the Earl of Annandale ob-
tained a grant of the manor and park in fee simple, by which he
was impowered to dispark the lands, which were declared to be
oat of the bounds of any forest or chace. The Friary included
in this grant was declared to be the principal boose, or lodge of
the park. On the decease of the Earl of Annandale in 1640,
this estate passed throagh Tarloos bands ; and, under a decree of
the Court of Chancery, the manor and park were sold, in 1709^
to the Honourable Thomas Onslow, afterwards Lord Onslow.
Soon after this the lands were disparked, and are now occupied
as four distinct farms t> which are the property of Eari Onslow.
The
* Maouiag has laboored to invalidate the Indicrous reBections on the coQit
of that time to which these terror have given occasion, and to prove, that the
word Aferitri* was here used in an indifferent sense, and as the description of
sach people in general who iettedfor fure: but Ljsona, m the Appendix cd»
the fifteenth voluoie of the Archaeologia (p. 399,) has quoted a record which
proves beyond a doabt> that the word MerelHc^s is to be taken in its literal
sense. In Idber Ruber Scaecatiit cited by Speiman, in his Glossary, ac the
word Maretcallia, u this passage : — "£t si soloit estre que le Maresscall devoit
avoir doaae Dan&oisellea k la Court Ic Roy, qui devioient faire seirement a
son Bacheier, qu'elles ne saveroient aultra putaim it la Court qaUUn muiwut,
he Ribaudes sans avowerie de assre, ne larron ne niesel qoelles oe le moos*
trenmt an Maresscal, et il doit poorvoir la Court de tout.**
t In a field near Henley Grove, belonging to one of these farms, an earthen
pot was foond in 1781, deposited in the chalky rock, a^Mut two feet beneath
the
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SDftRfiT. 9S6
, The Castle, fhe most prominent objeet in Ait town^ ii sttimted
about 900 jarde sonthward of the High Street The Keep, ilaiid-
tng on an artificial moont, is now the principal relic of Ihia
edifice. It ia a quadrangle fbrty-aeven feet by forty-five and m
half, and aeventy feet high. The foundation, to the height of
eight or nine feet, is of chalk, above which the walla are eon-
atrocted of flinta, rag-atone, and Roman brick, diapoaed in the
herring-bone fiuihion. It conlinnea very atrong, the walb being
-ten feet thick ; but is uncovered, the roof having, on account of
decay, been taken off near 200 yeara ago. In the walla are ca-
vities which shew the remains of aeveral apartments : in one of
them on the second story are aeveral rude figures deeply scratch-
ed in the chalk, supposed to be the work of some prisoner confined
here.
King, in his Observaiiims on Ancient Castles, makes the fi)U
lowing remarks on that of Guildford : '' On the ground-floor,"
says he *, ** there were no windows, nor even so much as loop*
holes ; but in the upper stories there was one great window, near
the middle on each side, the form of which was circular at the
top. As to the rest of the present windows they are all modem
breaches ; and even some of the old ones have plainly been al-
tered and repaired, and have even had firames and pillars of brick-
>vork inserted. The present entrance alao is manifestly a breach
made in these later ages* And the original entrance may be stiH
perceived
|h« torfacc. This pot, of very coane earth, it narrower at the hottom than
in the middle, where it is considerably protuberant; and whence it riyes
fn the form of a trancated cone to the top, bemg abont seventeen inches
In height, and foor feet fbor inches in circumference in the widest part. It
was nearly half ftill of small pieces of bnmt bones ; but, though search wafe
viade, nothing more was discovered to point out the character of the persoa
whose remains they were. This pot is engraven in the plates of Urns in
.0<mgh*i Camden, Jntrod. p. CXLIX. 6g. 15.
In the same farm, at the foot of an aged yew-tree, was dug op, a few yean
since, a leaden inii containing a heart preserved in spirits^
* Arcbvologia, Vol. IV. 409.
9
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3fi6 lUftkEt.
fcrceiTed to IiaTe been nndonbtedly throigh.a iUme anb, is die
nidat of the vest front, at a oonskkrable height^ and jiuist hate
been approached by a etabcaee on the oatside of the iralL Thie
arcb^ in which is a great peculiarUy, (it being a pointed one, el-
thoogb of a dale long before pointed ardies were introdaoed into
oonrnpn me), still remains very perfect And although it now
ptesses tat a window, yet that it was the ancient portal is manifest
bofth from the stone arch within, which exactly porreaponds widi
it, and differs from the arches of all the wtndowa; and also from
hence, thai whereas the windows on the other three aides aie
at the same hfiigbt firom the gronnd, this arch and portal is some
ftei lower, and Us botloni level with the marha of the floor
irithin.
*' There was a circular staircase in one corner of the bnildiag;
and there are also galleries in the thickness of the wall, as at
Rochester- There is likewise one very odd piece of fortification^
which is tbe mock i^peaxance of a ^dse entranoe,. or saUy-poit
(on the south side^ and near the south-east angle) on* the ground
seeming to be filled op. .with large square stones, of a diffaoeat
kind firom the rest of the castle; and having, in order to increase
the deception, maehicolatioaa oi^er. it aia greaj^ height as if to
defend it from attacks/'
On the west side of the keep, leading iowi^rds the.t aqoth, 4Nr
Quarry -Street, still remains the outer gate of lite caatie^ where
wae a portcullis, with the date 1669, and the initials J. C, as
having been rebuilt by John^ grandson of Francis Carter, to whom
this ancient edifice was granted by James I. The site at present
occupied by these ruins is about five acres; but, if we may judge
from the remains of walls and other worka, it must formerly have
been very extensive. The cellars of the Angel Inn« on the
north side of tbe High street, and those of a private dwelling di-
rectly opposite to it on the south side, are supposed to have been
part of the vaults belonging to the castle. Both are nearly of
the same dimensions, and exhibit theaame style of architecture,
beii^
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flDRRET. 257
keing about eight feet bigfa, and twenty feet square, sapported by
short massive pillars, the one of stone, and the other of squared
ehalk, from which spring arches crossing in different directions.
In the chalky cliff on which the castle stands, about 200 yardar
to the south-west of it, is a cavern, or rather a series of caverns^
the entrance to which is near Quarry-street, facing the west Here
is a gentle iescent into a cave forty-five feet long, twenty wide,
and nine high : near the entrance, on either hand, were two lower
passages, now closed np, leading to the other caverns. For what
purpose these excavations were formed it is impossible to ascer-
tain; if, as Grose observes, only for the chalk, the workmen were
bad economists of their labour : but many have, without the
■lightest foundation, looked upon this place as a subterraneous
passage to the castle.
The founder of the castle, and the date of its construction,
are alike unknown. Mr. King, in the Sequel to his Observations
on Ancient Castles, seems inclined to consider the keep at least
as a Saxon fortress, constructed during the time of the hep-
tarchy. It is somewhat extraordinary that the Domesday Survey
should have omitted to make mention of it. The first time that
it occurs in history is in the year 1036, when it was the the-
atre of a sanguinary transaction. Harold, sumamed Harefoot,
kaving been seated on the throne by the intrigues of Good-
win, Earl of Kent, in opposition to the sense of the people,
which favored Hardicanute, sen of the late king, then absent in
Denmaik; his mother, Emma, an ambitious woman, fearful of
losing her influence, conceived the design of procuring the crown '
for her son, Alfred, or his brother, Edward, the issue of her first
marriage with King Ethelred. For this purpose she obtained
Harold's permission to send for them from Normandy ; and on
their arrival in England, the king, through the persuasion of
Goodwin, who suspected Emma's intentions, gave them an invi-
tation to spend a few days at his eourt The mother, fearful of
some design, suffered but one of her sons to go, and Alfred set
•ut, attended by a numerous retinue of Normans. Near Gnild-
Vot. XIV. S ford
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S58 811EIIEY.
fold he was met by Goodwin^ who, with all the seiablaiiee of
respect, invited him to partake of some refreahmeat in thecaatle.
No sooner had he reached it, than Goodwin threw off the muk ;
Alfred was immediately seized, conducted to Ely, and, after his
eyes had been pul oot, sbut up in a monastery for life. Hia aJU
tendants were tortured with horrid cruelty, and six hundred of
them put to death.
In 1216, ^when Louis, Dauphin of France, came over to Eog^
land on the invitation of the barons, he soon possessed himaelf 4if
this casae. In 27 Edward I. (1299) it was assigned to Mar-
garet, second wife of that king, as part of her dowry ; but we
find it used as a common gaol in d5th of the same reign, when
Edward dc Say, keeper of the king's prisoners here, petiti«»ied
that they might be removed to some stronger place, this castle
being too weak for the safe custody of so many. It continued to
be applied to the purpose of a gaol down to the reign of Henry
YII. after which there is a chasm in the history of this caatie, till
it was granted by James I. in 1611, to Francis Carter, of Guild*
ford, in whose descendants it was vested, till it lately came by
purchase the property of the Duke of Norfolk.
Queen Eleanor, consort of Henry III. founded a house of
Dominicans, or Preaching Fk-huis, on the east bank of the river,
a little to the north of the High-street, but in what year, or of
what number it consisted, is not known. Neither are we informed
what were its revenues, or when it was surrendered. After the
Dissolution, King Henry VlII. built a mansion on its site, which
James I. demised, by lease, to Sir George More, Knt. of Loseley,
of whom it was purchased by George Austen, Gent, who, having
pulled it down and rebuilt it, disposed of his interest in it to J<^
Hurray, Esq^ afterwards Earl of Annandale. This nobleman, iq
consideration of the sum of dOOOL obtained a grant of the estate;,
together with the park of Gruildford, in fee^simple, on which he
erected the present mansion, which is built for the most part of
chalk, with squares of flint regularly interapoved, having an
elegant portico qf the Doric order ot tb^ 0a\f9Stoe^ tery much i^
the
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SORBET. 3M
tke style of the cdebraked Inigo Jones. After passing tbiongh
Tarioiis hands, this property was sold, abont 1721, to John
Russel and George Mabank, who made a partition of the same.
Mabank's share^ containing the site of the Friary^ the preseni
mansion-house, and other lands, was porchased about 1736 by
the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow^ Speaker of the House of Com*
mens, and is now the property of his son and heir. Earl Onslow*
Till of late years assemblies and public breakfasts were held in a
long room here. In 1794 it was lett for barracks, which wer«
made sufficient to hold about four troops of horse. They are
about to be rebuilt in a handsome and substantial manner.
This town contains three parish churches, dedicated to the
Hofy Trhuty, St. Mary, and St. Nicholas.
Trinity Church is situated on the top of the hill, and on the
south side of the High-street, and was probably built by some of
the Testard family for the use of their tenants. In that part of
the old church called Our Lady's Chapel was a channtry, denomi*
nated Norbrigge and Kyngeston's chauntry, founded by letters
patent of Henry VII. in 1485-6. The lands belonging to this
chauntry have ever since 3 Edward VL been in the hands of the
Corporation, and are still known by the name of the ChauiUry
Ldmds. Here was also another chauntry or chapel, called Wes-
ton's, being founded by one of the family of that name at Sutton.
About 1739 the inhabitants repaired this church at an expense
of 7tM>L and improved it by taking away the arches and pillaiff
which supported the steeple. The consequence was soon ob*
serred in the decay of the latter ; and on the 23d of April, 1740|,
the tower of this ancient church fell down and beat in the roof^
by which the whole structure, already gone to decay, was so
much damaged, that it was found necessary to take down and
rebuild it. The first stone was hiid in 1749, and it was opened
for divine service in 1763. This new church is a handsome
Stmcture of briek, eighty-two feet in length, and fifty-two and a
half in breadth. The tower, likewise of brick, is about ninety
feet high, with battlements, was built by Mr. John Garten, aa
89 ingenious
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260 8VRRBY.
ingenious workman, a native of the town, and contains eiglil
bells.*
In the old church was the monument of Sir Robert Paitirant,
Knt. with his effigies in his lord-mayor's habits^ with the rega-
lia of the city of London about him, and a lady kneeling at his
feet. The different parts of this monument, much broken by the
fall of the church, are deposited under the staircase of tiie gal-
lery, the money raised for rebuilding the chnrch being inadequate
to its repur.f
The only sepulchral memorial of the old church which has
been replaced in the new one, is that of Archbishop Abbots
which stands at the east end of the south aisle. On an altar-
tomb, uuder a canopy, supported by six black marble piilan
raised on pedestals of books piled upon one another, is a fbll-
lenorth effigy, in white marble, of the prelate in his episeopal
and parliamentary robes. At the east end, in niches, are two
figures, with the inscriptions : Hinc Lumen — Hie Crratia, over
their heads ; and on the top are nine small figures, well airanged.
On the west end, below the cushion, is a representaUon of a
sepulchre filled with skulls and bones, and an iron grate befi>re
it. On the west end of this monument is the Mtowing iaserip-
tion in capitals :
Sacrum memorie honoratissi Archi-prsesnlis D^ Geargii Ah»
hot, qni banc natalib* Guilforda^ studiis literamm Oxonm^,
decoravit ; ubi Socins primo Colleg. BalM. dein' Coll. I/moer-
sitatis Pnefecttts, & Academie Procancellari* laodatissim* pm-
dentise, pietatis, eroditionis ttstimatione adeo gratiam pientiss^
Reguroq ; omnium doctiss' Jacobi, Magn. Brit Monarche pro-
memit, ut, post I>ecanatum FFiwfoii. ad Episeopatu* Cweni. k,
Uchf, mox ad London, statim ad Cant, Archie'patn' & totins
AngU<E primatu', et ad sacratiss* Concilii Regti senata* cito
subvolaret : Cumqne inde ahios in terns non posset, Ccelos petiit,
dieru*, honorumque plenns. FVatrt, eidenq; Patri somm^ ve-
* Russel*fl Histoiy of GuUdfoid, p. 53. t Ibid. 37.
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SURRBY 261
nerando Mauridus Ahhoi, Eqn. Aurat mereutisso mttrenliw*
Jilc evitenia' parentat
At the east end :
jStenue memoritt sacrnm. Magni hie (Hospea) Hoapitia
nMNnenta Tidea. wA mortui; Videris Viventis etiam yiveptia.
Qadd pagam hone atrinaq; sexds PtochotrapUo aumptuoso, Pro*
▼incis aiin Metropolim Aquaduciu apecioso, omavit; Qu6d
Primaa annoa 22 pneaiderit, dtt'um optimoru' R. R. Consiliis ia-
aervierit ; Carolom piom diademaU et unctione sacrarit ; Qu6d
R. Jacobi juaao^ Eccleaiaa oli' Scotue perluatravit; Qu6d oari
ipaioa, eandem R. eraditisa. Academia Oxam. alloheacentift mirft
axceperit; aibiq; turn Burgeuaes Parlamenti^ turn auctiorea Pro-
feasomm reditua impetrftrit ; Quanti hsc ! Sed qa6d pi^, pati-
eater^ labenter, tanta liquerit, hoc uaum in uUimia reoeiiaeDdu%
in primis censenda^ censeas Hospea, et valeas.
On the coahion under hia head are theae worda :— Obiit A^. D.
1633, Auguati die 4^ Ao. setat 71.
At thia end, nnder the table, on which liea hia effigies, the
middle is filled up with earfinga of aknils and stones.
At the east end of the north aisle is a cenotaph erected by Earl
Onslow, in honor of his ftither, the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow,
who waa aboTe thirty ^three years Speaker of the House of Com-
mons, and died in 1768. On an altar-tomb <^ free*stone, raised
near six feet from the ground, is his effigies, in a recumbent
poatnre and Roman habit; his le<l arm reclining on several yo«
Inmes of Votes and Journals of the House of Commona, from
which iasue two scrolls with inscriptions, recording the proceed*
ings of that House in regard to the pension settled upon him in
1761. Under the S^e, on the upper plinth of the raised work,
are €Te coata of arms, illustrative of the intermarriages of the
fiunily: and Underneath, in two compartments, a long inscrip-
tion, commemorating his family alliances, honours, and charac-
ter. Behind the figure rises a conical table of black marble, on
which is suspended a medallion, with nine coats of arms. Mr^
S3 Onslow's
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t00 SUEftBt.
OMl<m^s rematiMi were iBtanrad in the fiunily bornl-plaoe tt
IfenoWt
The benefice of this church is a rectory, which, by u act
pwaed in 1699, for settling augmentslioas on certain mil
vicarages, was united with the adjoining living of St Mary's
parish. The rector is one of the five persens appointed by tiM
will of Archbishop Abbot to elect a master of his Hospital ; tn^
if unmairied, he may make the mastership hia own optbi, on a
vacancy, without the fenn of an election.
St. Mair^$ church is a very ancient building, mostly of chalk,
but with an intermixture of flinto, pebUes, and mbble stones^
mdely put together. It is supposed to have been erected by ona
of the Testard fiunily, and stands on the declivity of the hill a
little to the sontkwaid of the High-street It consists of a nare
with two aisles, and a chancel, with a chapel on each aide of il;
formerly communicating with the chancel by arches now stoppeii
up. These chapels do not extend the length of the chancd, anii
we round at the east end.* A liUleto the eastwanl of thecentn
of this church is a small embattled tower of the same Bttteriab
M the rest of the edifice, and containing six bells.
Su Nicholas' church, which stands on the west bank of tlie
Wey, is an ancient building of chalk, intermixed with stone. It
consists of a nave and two aisles, under three difoeat roofr
covered with tiles. At the west end is a low tower built eotirely
of an indiffefent kind of stone, and standing on circular archaa.
A chapel bdon§^g to the manor of Loseley adjoins the aoath
end of the church, from which it is s^arated by an open wooden
okreen. This church stands in so low a situation, that in floods
the floor was sometimes covered with water, on which acoovn^
in 1799 and 1800, a floor of boards was laid over the old floor.
The
^ Stukeley, In hia Itiaenrj, speaking of the round churches of Nortbsmp-
fpa and Camhridge, obterres, that he had heard that there was one of a
fimilar kind at Oniidford, which are ail of the sort he knew of in England;
and he conjectures them to have been built in the later times of the Boona^
at least in thf eail j Saxon reigna*
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The bnuMs ivhich were upon it are ell lost; b«i eeate of fli»
•toneo taken up on this occasion, with marks of brasses apon them*
are hiid in the passage from the gate-house to the church ioor.
In this chnrch still resHuns one inscription so ancient aa thai
Ibarteenth centnfy. It ia on a brass plate, upon a raised mono*
BMttt at the east end of the north aisle, with the effigies of a-
priest habited in scarlet, and a dog at his feet :
Hie jaoet Amaldui Brocat Baculari . . . ut' usq ; Juris Ca«
nottic' Lincoln' & Wellens' & qu'dam Rector isti' lod, qui obiit
in Vigl'a Assn'to's be' ... . Marie, Anno Domini Millesimo CCO
nonagesimo quinto.
Part of another of a still more ancient date, 1366, formerly on
a brass plate, under the portrait of a priest in his proper habit, is
recorded in Aubrey, but not now to be found in the church. It
is supposed to hare been for Bernard Brocas, rector about that
time.
In Loeeley Chapel are Tarious monuments for the equestrian
fiimilies of More and Molyneux.
On the north side of the High-street, and nearly opposite to
Trinity Church, is the Hospitai founded by George Abbot,
Archbishop of Canterbury, for the maintenance of a master,
tweWe brethren, and eight sisters. The first stone was laid in
1619, by Sir Nicholas Kemp, who at the same time gave KNM,
towards carrying en the work, and dOOI. more at his decease.
The archbishop, who was present On this occasion, endowed it
with a rerenue of 2001. a year, issuing out of various farms in
Surrey and Sussex, for the immediate support of its members,
and 1001. a yeat more out of two farms in Burston and Chari^
wood, for setting other poor to work within the hospital. When
the building was finished, James I. in 1622, incorporated tha
members by the style and title of the Master and Brethren of
the Hospital of the Holy Trinity in Guildford, with the foil
powers, pririleges, and immunities of a body corporate, impow^
ering the founder and his successors in the see of Canterbury to
make statates from time to time for its good gorerament. A
8 4 body
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iM snnRBT.
body of statutes was aeoordingly compiled by the fbundflr faiaiadf.
By these it is provided that the master of the hospital shaU be a
person of good ebaraoier, bom in GaiUUbrd, or at least an inha-
bitant for twenty years, of the age of fifty years at least; un-
married at the time of his election ; and if he marry afterwaida
he most resign the mastership within three i^yu. The persons
authorized to elect the master are the mayor, or his d^uty ; the
recUnr of Trinity church, or, in his absence, the rector of St Ni-
cholas's; the vice-master, and the two senior brethren. The qua-
lificatioa of the brethren and sisters is, that they be sixty yeaia of
age, born at Guildford, or resident there for twenty years before,
and unmarried : but it is provided by the statutes, that in case un-
married persons be pot found in Guildford to supply the vacancieB,
then some aged married man or woman may be elected, though
not permitted to have a lodging in the hospital, but only to
enjoy the weekly stipend as an out-broths or sistn« The
Archbishop of Canterbury is appointed visitor of the Hospital
To the brethren and sisters of the old foundation were, in
1785, added, by an order of the Court of Chancery, fear more
poor women, so that the number is now twelve of each, oxelnsive
of the master. The funds of ibis instituticm have of late years
received a considoable accession by the gift of 6001. from Tho-
mas Jadunan, Gent one of the magistrates of the ooiporation
in 1785; and a bequest of 2000L Consolidated 3 per Cent
Bank Annuities, from Mrs. Jane More Molyneux^ who died in
1602. The intention of the founder respecting the employment
of young persons in some manufacture within the town of Guild-
ford never took place, so that the rents appropriated by him to
that object are applied to the general purposes of the establish-
ment
This edifice is of brick, inclosing a quadrangular area 66 feet in
breadth, and 63 in depth, having a noble tower-gate, with four
turrets at its entrance. On the north side of the quadrangle is a
small chapel, the north and east windows of which are adorned
with painted glass, the former divided into four, and the latter into
five
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SOEABT. M§
fife oompirtnieuts^ repreaeBtbg the sane number of aeenee from
tlie hielory of tiie patriarcb Jacob, with four Latiu venea under
each of them. They arealao embeUished with the royal arms,
tboae of the foeuder, and other diatinguiahed persons, properly
Masoned and illuminated. In three of the upper angles of the
Gothic work are angeb, holding scrolls, with Latin inscriptions;
•ad on other scrolls in several windows of the bouse are these
words, having a quaint refierence to the name (d the founder. Cla*
mumMi Abba, Pater, Against the north wall of the chapel hang a
half-length of the archbishop ; an excellent portrait of Sir ^icho*
las Kempe, by Paul Vansomer ; and Alderman Jackman, by J.
Russell, R. A. In the south-east part of the quadrangle the mas-
ter has handsome apartments ; his dining-room over the gate-way
is adorned with a portrait of Archbishop Abbott, and those of
Wycliffe, Fox, and other reformers. Many of the apartments are
wainscotted with carved oak ; and in one of them is preserved the
flU amchair used by the founder. In the record-room at the top
of the spiral stair-case, which occupies one of the turrets, the Duke
of Monmouth was con6ned in 1685, on his way from the west of
England to London. The brethren are lodged in the west side
of the quadrangle, and the sisters on the east ; and behind the
edifice is a neat garden walled round and well planted. Mr.
Russel, bookseller, the present master of this institution, has,
with a laudable attention to its interests, laid out a large sum in *
repairs and improvements, and elected a considerable addition to
the comforts and allowance of the inmates.
The Free Grammar-School, hmM of brick and stone, stands
in Trinity parish. The school itself, 65 feet in length, and
22 in breadth, was begun in 1557 ; the apartments of the upper
and under master, and the library, being afterwards added to tho
original edifice. On the front of the building next to the street
are the royal arms; and underneath, in capitals of gold :
ScHOLA Regi4 Grammaticalis Edyardi Sexti, 1550.
In 1691, Joseph Nettles, Gent, of this town, gave by will
eleven
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SURRET.
deren aeres of knd in the parish of Stoke, in trmt, tomvAi
the maintenaiice of a scholar at Oxford or Cambridge, beln]^ tie
son of a Dreeman of this eorporatios, and brought ap at this'
school, to be enjoyed by htm lor seven years next after his ad-
mission, with all arrears doe at the time of his Atering npoa it
for want of former claimants.
The following eminent persons, among otiiera, reoeiTod the
rudiments of their education at this school .-—John Parkharst,
Bishop of Norwich ; William Cotton, Bishop of Exeter; Hewy
Cotton and Robert Abbot, Bishops of Salisbury ; George Abbo^
Archbishop of Canterbury; Sir Robert Pwkhnrst, who died
lord-mayor ^ London in 1685, and Sir Manriee Abbot, brother
of the two prelates, and lord*mayor of the same dty in 1699.
The Toum-HM, or GuiU^U^ is spacious, with a tnnet on
the top, and was erected in 16S8, when the M omrket-hoase
was taken down. Its length is 44 feet In the north win--
dow over the mayor's chair are the Queen's arms and those of
the Corporation. On the sides of this room hang whole length*
pictures of James I. Charles II. and James IL the two latter by
Sir Peter Lely; William III. and his Queen, and Yice-AdmirBl
Sir Richard Onslow receiving the Dutch Bag after the victory in'
1797. The latter was painted by John Russell, R. A. w native
of this town, and presented by his ikther, who several times
*served the office of mayor. The council-chamber up stairs at
the south end <ff the hall is a lofty handsome room. The chim-
ney-piece was brought from Stoughton in Stoke when that old
femily seat was taken down. It is adorned with figures carved
in stone, and inscribed : Sangdineus, Cholbricus, Phlbg-
MATicus, Melanchoucus. This room, by permission of the
corporation, is used by the bench of justices, who meet to transact
the business of this division of the county. The Hall itself is *
used at the assizes. The other court was formerly held in a
room taken out of the Three Tuns Inn ; at other times used for
the wheat market, open to the street, and very inconvenient.
In 17§9 Lord Onslow and Lord Grantley purchased the Red
9 lioa
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lim loB, WhA OB t>«e put of the grouiid boflt a room 40 feel by
90, oad 90 fset iiigb, in wliich the jadges now oit^ and which the
oorpomtion noe for puUic dinners.
Near this room a Theatre ma hnilt afew yean since; and
hne a strolling company occasionany performs. There was also
a; Cook-pit, whibh, in 1800, was eonyerted into a market.hoQ80
ftr hotter, eggs, and poultry.
The Gaol, sitnate near St Mary's Chnrch, was rekrih of
•lone in 17M. The place of oon&nement for debtorB nsed to be
in the Town-hall, under the Conncil-chamber ; bat a few years
nnce a more commodious room, with a house for one of the ser*
Jeants at mace, was built in the garden of the Town-hall.
The Spital, or Hospital, is situated in that part of the parish
of Stoke which adjoins to Guildford on the east, and in the angle
liMrmed by the roads leading to Kingston and Epsom. It was
dedicated to St. Thomas, and had a Prior or Master, of whom
mention is made in the ancient oourt-rdk of the nuuior of Stoke,
to the lord of which he paid, as the feo^es of the estate due to
this day, a quit-rent of six-pence per annum ; but at what time,
pmd by whom it was founded, is not known. The name of Prior is
still given to the person occupying this house for the time being,
who also formerly receired a stipend of 14L per annum, which
has been discontinued by an order of Session ; the house and
garden, with the rents of some small parcels of the demesne,
being deemed an equivalent. If Speed be not mistaken when ho
speaks of a house of Cratched Friars at this place,* (for he is
the only historian by whom it is mentioned,) it probably stood
on this spot, and might afterwards dwindle into an hospital, and
be re-consecrated to St. Thomas. Contiguous to the Epsom road,
is still to be seen a small building, which is manifestly of oonsi<r
deraUe antiquity, and was probably a chapel. Spital-house has,
in latter times, been appropriated to the reception of a cripple,
on the alternate recommendation of the town of Guildford and the
county
o Catdogue of Religioiii Howei in U\t reign of Henr/ III .
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26^ 89EEBY.
county at large; butBtiioe 1696 it has bean oMial to adoltOAa
vacancy any person vho is recommended to the feoffees hy the
magistrates of the corporation. At present also the Court Leek
and Court Baron of the Manor of Poyle are annually hdd here.*
Thut town has also a Charity School, at which twenf^-five
poor boys are instructed and clothed onoe a year; a Romom
Catholic Chapel, and meeting-houses of the Baptists, Pkedby«
t^rians^ and Quakers.
The Bridge of five arches over the Wey, bnilt of stone, wan
some years since widened with brick, and the centre aroh en-
laiged to aUow barges to pass through.
In 1776 the late Lord Grantley constructed a cold bath at a
house near the bridge, lor the convenience of the inhabitanto, al
which there is attendance every day.
The town is siqiplied with water by means of an engine, which
throws it into a reservoir at the foot of Poyle-hill, whence it is
conveyed by pipes into the houses of the inhabitants.
The pavement has heretofwe been kept in good refwir by an al-
lowance of one penny on every load of timber, &c. carried on the
navigation. In 1794 it amounted on 29,912 loads to 124. 12s. 6d.
An act has recently been obtained for repaving the Hhole with
flag stoaaEi, and removing the projecting signs, and other nui-
sances. By means of a turnpike-road to Horsham the town has
lately procured a direct conununication with Brighton and the
coast of Sussex ; and a fund has been raised for the purpose of
forming a junction between -the river Wcy at Guildford and the
Arun, so as to establish a direct navigable line from the metro-
polis to the sea at Little Hampton. These improvements, partly
executed, and partly projected, sufficiently attest the inoreaaing
|>rosperity of this town and neighbourhood.
About two miles eastward from the town is a fine ciienlar
course for horse-races ; where a plate of one hundred gniness,
given by William III, and three subscription plates, exclusively
of matches, are run for in the Whitsun week.
GutUfoiA
* Manning s Surrey, I. p. Sffk
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CMUUord has gi^ Urib to several persoiis of eminence. At
(he faeid of these must be placed GBomefi Abbot, whose Irther^
by trade a dotii-woriier, and in low circumstances, lived at a
house next to the bridge, afterwards an die-honse, known by the
dgn of the Three Mariners. Aubrey relates, that his mother,
wben pregnant with him, dreamt, that if she could have a jade
or pike to eat, her child would rise to great distinction. Some
time afterwards going to the rirer, which runs ctoee by the
hoQSe. fast water, she took up a jack in her pail, and, in com-
fliance witii her dream, dressed and ate the fish. This circum-
stance becosung known in the neighborboed, induced some peo-
ple of qaality to oflfer themselves as sponeorB, an ofier which the
poverty of the parents led them joylhlly to acoept. To this story
a trsditioii^ formerly current at Guildford, adds, that as George,
and hb elder brother, Robert, were playing on the bridge, some
gentlemen passing by were struck with their appearance, and being
informed that one of the boys was the subject of this singular
dream, they put them to school at their own expense, sflerwards
■ent them to the university, and thus laid the foundation of their
future distinction. In 15d9 he was installed Dean of Winchester;
in 1009 h^ was advanced to the see of Lichfield and Coventry ;
thence removed to that of London ; and in the following year
translated to the archbishopric of Canterbury. Though the chap
rscter of this prelate is not absolutely clear from the charge of
flattery, yet he had the courage to oppose the court on various
occasions, particularly in- the dffidr of the divorce of the Countess
of Essex, and in regard to the king's declaration for permitting
sports and pastimes on Sunday. In 1621 he was the innocent
cause of a mirfortune, which gave him great uneasiness during
the rest of his life. Being at Bramshill park, the seat of Lord
&uch, he accidentally killed the game-keeper with an arrow,
which he aimed at one of the deer. This misfortune threw him
into a deep mdancboiy ; and he not only kept a monthly fast
ever afterwards on the day of the week on which it happened,
•hut- settled an annnity of twenty pounds on the keeper's widow.
His
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Md SUAEBT,
Bis enemiei took adfanti^ of this cimmMtwrj ijl^iag ttit
he wan thereby incapacit^yted for performing the arehiepiicopel
fimctioiia ; bat the result of a commissioa appointed by the kiiy
to enqoirb into the affiur proved &vorable to his Grace, SoM
have asserted that he erected his hospital at Gruildford as anatone*
nmit for his involontary bloodshed; but this is a gross misrepre*
sentation« as the foundation of that edifice was hid two yeais
before this accident happened. The archbishop died in 1633,
and was interred, as we have seen, in his natiye town. Tbii
prelate was one of the divines engaged in the new translation of
the Bible. He also wrote an Exposition of the prophet Jonab,
a piece relating to Gowry's Conspiracy, a brief Description rf
the Whole World, and several other tracts.
Robert Abbot, the elder brother of the preceding, was bora
in 1560, and educated with himat Baliol College^ Oxford. Qa
the accession of James L he was appointed chapkun In ordinaiy
to that prince, who was so highly pleased with his book Dt
AiUiekritto, that he caused it to be printed with his own Com*
mentary on the Revelation. In 1612 he was appointed r^os
professor of divinity at Oxford, where he so ably vindicated the
king's supremacy against the popish writers, Bellannine sod
Suarez, that James, in 1616, raised him to the see of Salisboiy.
This dignity he enjoyed but a short time^ as he died in 1617,
and was buried in his own cathedral.
Maurice Abbot, a younger brother of the two prelatesy wis
bred to trade, and received the honour of knighthood fron^
Charles I. He became a Director of the EasUlndia Coo^^y ;
and in 1625 was chosen one of tl^e representatives of the ci^
of London, of w)ucb he was lord-mayor in 1638. He died ia
1640.
John PARXHunaT was bora in 1511 or 1513, and is said Is
have been educated at the Free-school in this town*, after which
hi
* Wood, however, k hit ^A. OjtM. L 141, says, ttet he wai edacatod s
framouur learning at the Mhool adjoiniag to Msgdsica CoH^09 O^Nb <feiafr
■ander Hr. Thomai RobertmiL
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lie removed to Merton CoHege« Oxfonl. In 1548 he was pre*
sented by Thomas Seymour^ Lord Sndley, to the rectory of
Cleeve in Gloucestershire; and in 1560 was consecrated Bishop
of Norwich.*
The late eminent artist, Johk Rosssll^ R. A. was also a na*
tire of this town. He was the eldest son of Mr. Russel^ bookseller,
who served the office of mayor several times^ and died &ther of the
corporation, at the advanced age of ninety-five. His son hav-
ing in eariy youth manifested a strong predilection for drawing,
was placed under the tuition of Uie celebrated Francis Cotes> R. A.
after whose death he enjoyed tke reputation of being the first
artist in crayon painting, in which he particularly excelled in the
delineation of female beanty. In 1789 he was chosen a Royal
Academician, and soon after appointed crayon-painter to the
King, the Prince of Wales, and the Duke of York. Notwith-
standing the constant professional employment which Mr. Rus-
sel's extraordinary talents ensured him, he contrived to find
time for other studies. His Seienographia, or model of the moon,
which he began in 17B5, occupied the whole of his leisure till
1797. At the time of his death he had finished two other draw«
tags, whidi completed his plan, and which exhibit an elaborate
view of the moon in a state of illumination. These were pub«
lished about two years after his decease. The great utility of
this masterly work to the sciences, connected with astronomy,
has been acknowledged by those who are best able to appreciate
its value. Mr. Russell died at Hull on the SOth of April, 1806,
in his sixty-£rst year, and was interred in the High Church of
tiutt town.
On a hill in the parish of Bt Nicholas, about a mile firon
Guildford, and close to the road to Godalming, are the ruins of
Sl Kaikarme^M Chapel, which ae&oa to have been an elegant
structure. By whom it was erected is uncertain ; its foundation
is, however, ascribed to King Henry 11. who is said to have
^ppn^riated it as a place of worship for the taumts of his numor
of
• See Beau^ev, Vol. IX. Norfolk, p. 30.
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379 6DKRBT.
of ErtindoB, after he kad detached it from Godalniag^ on gnat*
ing the latter to the ehareh of SalislniTy. Haviog heconie very
raiDoiia, it waa rebailt daring the reign of Edward I. hy Richanl
de Waoncey, paraon of St Nieholaa in Goildford, who had pur-
chased the aite, with the intention of making it a chapel of ease
to that benefice; bat the transaction being fonndto be ill^|;al, it
reverted to Uie crown.
At what time this chapel fell into disuse, and how long it has
been in its present ruinona condition is not known. The length
within the walls is ibrty-five feet and a half, the breadth twenty
leet and a half, and the waUa themselves are something less than
three feet thicL On each aide were two small upright bat-
tresses, which terminated in pinnacles or finials rising above the
roof; in the intervale between th^se were the windows, three on
each side, with a circular aperture over that in the middle of the
south side. The principal window was at the east end; and
there was another over the west door. Besides the iveat entraao^
there were two smaller, one on each side ; and at the north-west
angle a turret of a circular form within, and about ^re feet vide»
which probably served for a belfry, aa wdl as the staircase lead-
ing to the roof. The walls were of ordinary stone ; but the eoios^
finials, and pointed arches of the doors and wmdows, ibr the most
part of chalk. This ruin was some years, since repaired hy the
kte Robert Austen, Esq. of Shalford; but these repairs were
designed principally to prevent the arches of the doors and win-
dows firom fikUing, not to render the edifice again serviceable.
Richard de Wauncey, 2 Edward II. obtained a charter for a fair
to be annually held here on the festival of St. Matthew, which
is accordingly still observed on the 2d of October.
In the same parish, about two miles south-west of Guildibrd,'
is Lotke$ley, or Losefy House. The manor, which was crown
land in the time of Edward the 'Confessor, was held by one
Osmond, and consisted of 400 acres. After the Conquest it was
givea to Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel and Shrewa^
hiry*
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SURRRY. 273
bory, who attended the Conqaeror in his expedition, and was one
of his principal ooantellora ; but towards the conclusion of hia
life became a monk in the priory of Shrewsbury, which he had
fcunded. It was purchased in.24 Henry VIII. by Christopher
More, Esq. who was sheriff of Surrey and Sussex, and died here
in 1549. In his family it continued till it was carried by mar-
riage into that of Molyneux, and is now the property of Jamea
More Molyneux, Esq.
The house, which stands in the middle of a beautiful park, is
large ; bat, according to Aubrey, was formerly much more spa*
^ious. It is of stone, and was built by Sir William More, Knt.
between the years 1562 and 1568. The main body of the pre*
sent mansion &ce8 the north, and has an extensive wing on the
west. On the east is the garden wall, of equal dimensions with
the wing, and with corresponding projections and doors, but the
latter are now filled up. The building is constmcted of the ordi-
nary stone found in the county. In the centre is a ball 42 feet
long, and about 25 broad. The wing contains on the first floor
a gallery 121 feet long, and 18 wide. This mansion is adorned
with some good paintings, among which are the following por-
traits, all whole lengths : Queen Anne Boleyn, by Holbein ; Sir
Thomas More, the celebrated lord chanc^ilor ; Sir William More,
with a long white beard, and his lady ; Sir George, Sir Robert,
and Sir Poynings More; Nathaniel, who married Miss Booth,
and his lady; Sir Thomas Molyneux, who married one. of the
two co-heiresses of the Mores ; Elizabeth, her sister, who died
unmarried ; Sir More Molyneux, hia lady, aud their eleven
children, in one large piece in the hall. On the stairs leading
to the gallery is a large allegorical picture, represenling at one
end the effects of an honorable and virtuous life ; at the other of
vice and debauchery^ At the bottom, in the centre, i^ a chariot
drawn by two oxen ; the driver is an old man holding a crutch;
one figure is standing upright in the chariot, with Death at hia
back, and a motto, Respice fnem. In the gallery are whole
'Vol. XIV, T lengths
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274 tfCRRET.
lengths of James I. and his qaeen^ ifid a sttfatl thN^e-qoariM of
Edward VI. dated 1549*
Loseley has seteral times been honoted t^tth the fm&L6t ef
sovereigns. Queen Elizabeth was a fre<(aent tlaitchr; snd Ifi
the gallery are two gilt needle-Work chairs, il^ith caahions, wittked
by that princess.t A neat consecrated chapel waa fitted np here
by the late Mr. Strode, who some yearis since occapied this msa-
sion.
At West Ol/indon, three miles from Gaildford, is Clmidm
Place, a noble edifice, the se^i of Earl Onslow* The MSAor
was purchased of the Diinoomb family in 1716, by the first Lord
Onriow, whose son erected the present mansion in 1731, torn the
designs of Leoni. The hall, a cube of 40 feet, forms a msgnifi-
cent entrance. In this apartment are two elegant chimney-pieces
by Ryshrack ; the one representing a sacHfice to Bacchus, and
considered as that great scolptor's master-piece in basso-telieto ;
and the other a sacrifice to Diaha. The rooms are stately and
convenient, and are adorned with some good pictures. Amotig
these two of Barlow^s best pieces, which were removed hither
from Pirford, and hang in the saloon, Reserve particular notice.
Here is also a fine portrait of Sir Edward Onslow, by Cornelitts
Jansen ; another of Thomas de Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester ;
aud in the gallery on the attic story is a very curious painting of
the old house, together with a bird's eye view of the whole pa*
rish. The south-west front of this mansion commands a lively
and extensive prospect. The ikscent near the house overlooks
the race-ground near Guildford ; aud here a judicious tai&te has
transformed what was once a chalk-pit into a rich scene of pic-
turesque beauty. The brick stables, at a small distance froiH
the mansion, i^ere built by the present lord from a design by
Brown. They have the appearance of stone, and are seen to
great advantage, surrounded by stately elm^. The park is irell
wooded,
* Maiming mud Bray'j Sorrey, Vol. I. p. 93.
t RosscU's Gaildford, S65.
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ff
il9odQ4» ui4 pleatiAiliy stocked wHIi deer; and the plaMuro*
gMDnde ere «eat aod loouaitic.
In thefwriek of EiUiT Clandon ie HatcUandPurk, itUnk,
ebe«t the middle of the laat eentiuy^ came into the poseaaiuoii of
Admiml Boseawen, who died Uere in 1761. It is now the ses^
of Holme Samner, Esq. one of the knights of the shire for this
couity.
Im the adjoining parish of West Horslby is the fine oU(
mansioa of Sotton^ Esq. fqsmerly belonging to. the Raleigh
family. The chnrch, a small ancient struoture, contains sereral
old alalb and monuments. In the chi^pel, which is the burial-
plaee bdenging to the manoi»-hoase^ is. intened Carew Raleigh,
Esq. son of Sis Waher. Oa digging a graye here next to hip
eofiil^ a hasMui sknll* without any other bones or eoTering. was
found in a niche in the eock of chalk, only just Isrge enough to
contain it This is supposed to have been that of Sir Walter
Raleigh, whose son brought it to this place, and is iaid to have
preserred it with the intention of having it buried with himself.
At East Hohsj.ey, is Horsley Place, the seat of William
Currier Esq. a partner in the banking-house of licfevre, Curries«
Raikes, and Co. Comhill, liondon.
Ockkam Park, in ihe parish of the same name, is the seal of
Lord Ki^, by whose ancestor. Sir Peter King, Lord High
Chancellor, and created Baron King of Ockham, this estate was
purchased in 1711 of the Sutton fomily. The grounds have
lately been much improved, the piece of water enlarged, and the
whole adapted to the modem taste.
William Ockham, a celebrated phlhwopher of the fourteenth
century, was, according to Camden, a native of this place. He
wss a disoii^e of the fomous Duns Scotus, whose principles, how-
OYcr, he afterwards attacked. Having incurred the censure of
the Pope by pleading for the poverty of the clergy, h« ic^uQunced
bis allegiance to his Holiness, and being supported by the Em-
peror Lewis of Bavarisy at whose court he was entertained, he
T 2 asserted
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276 StRRBY.
isserted the independence of all open him in temporalB widi sodr
mergy, that the pope, repenting of his rash proceedbgs, ah-
aolved him from excommunication, and gave him the title of the
Invincible Doctor, He died in 1330, and was buried at Miuiidi»
in Bavaria, leaving behind him many polemical tracts, a few of
irhich have been published.
In the parish of Send, on a spot formerly called Aldbory,
stood Newark Priory, also denominated Newsted, 6r de Novo
Loco. It was founded during the reign of Richaid I. by RnaM
de CalvH, and Beatrix de Sandes, his wife, for Black or regular
canons of the order of St. Augustine, and dedicsted to the Blessed
Virgin and St Thomas of Canterbury. The estates with which
this establishment was endowed were confirmed to it by the
charters of Henry III. and Edward I. and were estimated, at the
Dissolution 26 Henry VIII. to be of the clear annual value of
2681. lis. lid. The last prior, Richard Uppiscomb, had a pen-
sion of 40L per annum assigned him. In 1636 the site of the
monastery, and its possessions, were granted by Henry VIII. to
Sir Anthony Brown ; whose descendant, Henry, Lord Viscount
Montacute, sold the estate, about I7tl, to Sir Richard Onslow,
from whom it descended to Earl Onslow, the present proprietor.
Part of the church is now all that remains of this edifice. The
other buildings have, from time to time, been pulled down, for the
sake of the stones, which were used to mend the roads. The
whole would probably have been demolished, but for the inter-
position of the fiktber of the present owner, whose taste preserved
this ancient monument of the piety of our forefathers.
Send Grove, in this parish, is the seal of Serjeant Onslow.
Ripley, a tithing in the parish of Send, is said to have been
the birth-place of Grorob Riplet, a fiimous alchymist and Car-
melite inar of the fifteenth century. Bishop Tanner, however,
informs us, that he was a native of Linoolnshire ; and his being a
monk of Boston renders this account the more probable. Fuller
makes him a Yorkshirem«n, and tells a woaderfol story of hi«
giving
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$URmiT« 277
giving 100,00(H« a year to the Knights of Rhodeo, to enable
them to carry on the war with the Turks,*
At Stoke is the mansion and park» formed out of Tarions
new acquisitions by the late William Aldersey, Esq. BefcHre his
death, in 1800, he sold a (arm, called Bullen's Hill, to Richard
Henry Budd, Esq. who has built a new house upon it The
remainder of his estate he dcTised to his wife, who, in 1801,
disposed of it to Nathaniel Hillier, Esq. ; and it is now the pro-
perty of the Hon. T. C. Onslow, third son of Lord Cranley, and
M. P. for Guildford, who married his daughter.
Stoughton was, in the seventeenth century, the residence
of a family of the same name, of which Nicholas, was, in
1660-1, created a baronet ; but the title became extinct on the
death of his son. Sir Laurence, without issue, in 1691-2. The
mansion, called Stoughton Place, was situated on a delightful
eminence in the middle of the manor. On the dispersion of the
estate the house was pulled down ; and the site of it, being a
plowed field of about six acres, with parts of the ancient moats
remaining, is still known by the name of Stoughton Gardens.
This spot was separated from the rest of the demesne lands^
which, with the manor, were absorbed In that of Stoke.
Woodbridge House, in Stoke, belongs to John Creuz6, Esq*
high sheriff of the county in 1 788.
The Church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, is a plain
bnilding of ordinary stone, intermixed with flints, and consirts of
a nave, chancel, and north aisle. At the east end of the latter is
Stonghton's Chapel, for the most part built of flints, and sepa«
rated from the chancel bj two Gothic arches. At the west end
is an embattled tower of large hewn stone, intermixed with small
flints, and famished with three bells. This church possesses a
handsome organ, the gift of the late William Aldersey, Esq.
In Stoughton's Chapel are several long Latin monumental in-
scriptions, chiefly on brass plates, for various individuals of the
T 9 family
* Googh'i Addidqat to Camden^
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STB iWVET*
jftmi'y of tbat name. The foUown^ Um on Sir iMNMa
Stooghton, Knt. deceased in bis «xty-«seoiid jen, m 1615.;
Hiid Rose, bis lady, who bore him seventeen children, and'^ed
in 1632, aged seventy *fiTe, afibrds a g<M>d 8peeiaie& of tlnas
plays open wolds, in which th«t panning age lost^'no 4^>porlaiii^
of indulging.
Nomina nature sunt symbola, sxpeque Sortis
Omnia ventune, sit bona, sitve mala.
Hinc tibi Laurcnti, de Lauro nome' et omen ;
Florida Lauras eras, vivida Lauruk eras.
Laurus eras primal Phoebo sacratajuventA,
Laurus eras pulchne consociala Rosa,
Quam bene conveniunt & in uni sede mtMietnttir
StoughUmiA Laurus fibrida, pnkhra Bom !
Fulchra Rosa et lan hac sine tprni, fettiiis illa»
Sic muitA & carpti tic cito prole parens.
Arboreas inter proles velut optima Laurus,
Sic inter fruttces <q^tima pulcbra Rosa,
Suavis odor resfat carptae Lauroq ; Rosaeq ;
Nulii no' parti gratus odorq ; manet.
En hoc Laurentum dicas, dicasq ; Rosetum,
Hie Rasa radices, hie quoq ; Laurus agit.
On the north wall of the chancel is an iosenpti«n, in while
'Barbie, to the menory of the Right Hon. Jerftmiah Dyson, who
died in 1776, aged 54,* and, wilh sevend of his femily, was
inteirsd
' * Mr. Djsoa having been some time Clerk^Asslatint of the boose of Codi*
mens, wm appointed Principal Clerk in Febraarj 17<if7'8, in the tooid of
Nicholat Hlurdmge, Esq. who had retired. In Majf» ires/be «a» autie
jokit Secretary to the IVcainry, and SecrttaiT'to tlie fint Lord ', and teviag
resigned the Clerkship of the House of CoamoDt in the laonth of Augost foW
lowing, was, in January 1768, elected a lepreienUtiTe for the boroogh of
Calne. After this he was succes^vely appointed a Lord of Trade in )764 ;
a Lord of the Treasury 1768 ; and Cofferer of the Household in 17*74» which
last oflice he held till bis death. He porchased the manor of Stoke of Mi*
cholas Turner, Esq. hot it was again sold in 1780, by his son and be^a
JcFemiab, to Georga Yansittaft, £•<}•
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irtflijiajl hftie. Ip Ui^.wp^ jghfie \m boned' /me« Price, V. D.
T. R. & v)i94ied UK 1783, ^;ei 35 yean.*
By jMie ^e of 4ie road lefi^^i^ ^^^ Gaildford to Stgkf
<3bwrc|i ip fk v^t brwk Uom»it«l, ejected for aix widows, iii
1746, by Mr. William PajrsoD, ISourmerly a draper of Gaildford,
and endowed vith 37001. in tftfi tbrc^ per cent coniolidate^
annnitiea. Tihe vi^ows mnat be noX lesa tban aii^ty yeafs of ^ge,
jcho^uonXotSMf^ or, if aofih .ciMUu4 be fopind ihare, cmtpftbe
T 4 BAaaHOT,
* Tbii gentleman had an independent fortttne» was o£ Oriel CQUage* Qs-
fo(d> and took a Qachel^r't deg^ in physic In 1781 he pnUishef an
.accoant of some JSxpeKimeats on niercory« silver, and gold, made {it Ouild-
ford in Hay 178f , in presence of many gentlemen, to whom he appeals for
the troth of hu accoant, withoot the lUghtest fear of contradiction or dissent.
It appears that mercury was thrown into a crucible, placed on a 6re, and after
other ingredients bad been thrown in, a certain red powder, furnbbed by him,
was added. The cmcihl^ in doe time, was cooled and broken^ when a
globule of yellow metal was found at the bottom, which proved to be
.pore gold. In other e^periqients a white powder produced silver : and in
others the red powder trapsiquted this silver into gold. His experiments h^d
hastily procured him the degree of M. D. at Oxford* and an introdnction into
the Royal Society : bat having declined a repetition of his eiperiments, or a
discovery of his process, doubts of the reali^ were suggested. In the intro-
dnction to his account, be asks the candid and impaitiai by what arU af
daeeit mereuy can be prevented from boiling in a red beat ; or, when acta*
ally bailiog and evaporating, it could be almost instantaneonsly^ed, by the
addition of a substance not above one 480th part of iu weight. He also askt
those ffho knew his situation, what could induce him to take such laborious
and sinister methods of acquiring fame, possessed, as he was, of total tnde*
peiidence, and of chemical reputation. He afterwards says, that *' the
whole of the materials producing the extraordinary change in the metal era«
ployed was expended in formmg the processes ; nor can the author furnish
himself with a second portion* but by a process equally tedious and operose ;
whose effects he has recently experienced to be injurious to hts health, aad
of which he must therefore avoid the repetition." This mode of answeiing
enquiries was not satisfactory to the public j; but an end was put lo them by
bis sudden death in July the following year. Manning, 1. 180.
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260 SVEBET.
Bagsbot, a Tillage in the parish ct WntDLVSHAM, w as-
eiently the lordship of the kings (d England^ who had hoe a ami-
sion/ with a park adjoining, to which James I. and Chsiles I.
who were much addicted to the chaee, often resorted to oijoy
that diversion. It was disparked, howerer, dnring the eifil
commotions in the reign of the latter.
Bagtiot Park, westward of the Tillage, was, some yesrs sinee,
the seat of the Earl of Albemarle ; since that of the Priaceof
Wales ; and afterwards of Earl Harconrt. It now belongs to Ua
Highness the Duke of Gloucester. The house, in which theie is
nothing striking, stands in the centre of a park, npwards of
three miles in drcamference.
The adjoining heath, which takes it name from the Tillage, aad
is of very great extent, furnishes fuel for the neighbouring inha-
bitants, and feeds ao immense number of sheep and cows. Tht
sheep are in general small, but remarkable for the sweetness and
£ne flavour of their mutton,
WoEiNe, situated on the Wey, about five miles below GoiU*
lord, though it gives name to the hundred, and had formerly a
weekly market, is but a small and inconsiderable place. At the
time of the Domesday survey, the lordship, which is extensive,
belonged to the royal demesne. The mansion was the occasional
residence of Edward IV. Henry VU. and Henry VIII. At length
James I. by his letters patent> included this manor in his giant
to Sir Edward Zonch, as mentioned under the hundred of Wo-
king, with which it has descended to Earl Onslow, the present
proprietor.
The ancient mansion stood on a branch of the river Wey,
about a mile below the town. Great part of the foundations aie
still to be seen, being chiefly of a very fine brick ; but no part of
the superstructure is ]eft» except the walls of one single apartnest,
which is said, and not improbably, to haTo been a guard-room
while the building was occupied by the crown, and occasionally
osed as a royal residence. The rest is supposed to have been
taken dowi) by some of the Zouch fiunily, and the materials e«-
ployed
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8URIIBT. 281
ployed in building tbe farm-honse contignouB to its andeat site,
and which is still known by the name of the Park Hotue.
In the manor of Brookwood is a tenement caUed the Ifcr-
miiage, which Aahrey* speaks of as iormerly belonging to tiie
ConTont of Grey Friars^ Guildford ; and adds, that part of the
original house, built of stone and timber^ remained in his time.
It was included in the grant of James I. to Sir Edward Zouch.
The last heir of that family bequeathed it to Mrs. Catharine
Wood ; but it is now become, by purchase, the property and
residence of Joseph White, Esq. solicitor to the Treasury.
Hoe, or rather Hough Bridge Place, is situated on a rivulet,
which, passing the town on the narth, runs into the Wey a little
below. The mansion, originally erected on this spot, and taken
down by John Walter, Esq. consisted of two large courts, and is
supposed to hate been the work of Sir Edward Zouch, the prin-
cipal mansion having then probably gone to decay. At this place
Sir Edward is said to hare frequently entertained James I. on
bis excursions hither from the palace of Oatlands ; and a tradi-
tion prevails in the neighbourhood, that the turret still remaining
on the hill, a little to tho northward of the house, was erected
lor the sole purpose of pointing out the way across the heaths,
by means of a light placed in the top of it, to messengers, and
others, who had occasion to repair hither to the king by nightf
Contiguous to this house stood the present mansion, which was
built by James Zouch, the last hetr male of this family, at whose
decease, in 1706| it descended to Sophia, his niece and heir at
law, and was sold, in 1730, to John Walter, at that time lord of
ihe manor. After passing through several hands, it was pur-
chased,
* Aatiq. of Sarrej, III. tS8.
t Manning and Braj't Surrey, I. 199.
Sir Anthony Weldon, in bis Court and Character of King Jamet L it very
Mivere upon Sir Edward. " The king,*' says he, " ;ii\er topper, woald come
Ibrth to tee paatimes and fooleries ; in which Sii Edward Zooch, Sir George
Goring, and Sir John Finite were the chief and master fooli. Zoacfa's part
waa to aing hawdy touga^ad tell bewd/ tales." he* p. 94, 85.
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On a risiiig grmnd, 4ii*b(e flreyt Mile ^f ih« river, dbept tb«e
■068 belieif iGWlMNrf to tiie oiwA^^i^ luid « ivile fiw %
London po^, etaafc Ihe jmwwfi <ef ^M<to» Pki^» ^ <wlW 1^
dHtittgoifik it fiaon S^tMlefi Xomk^ juoneil^ #iABal^ M a Ul49
dieUnce Arem it, bvl qdv whpUjr 4«aw>li4hed. It wm \nSiX ^
Sir Biehard Werton about the yeor 1690. The ilrwciiHse ia fC
bflick, finialied ^tb a douUe-^ol^toed pl«t*band of jl yelkwii
brick mnniAg round the top ; wiMi POMW a«i n^uKWrfjiw nf
tfie -aane; and, aocovding to the atgrie md iEuibiqii ol t)ie lime
in which it was elected,, it is a JuM^dwpe odifioe. The foiii
matt qoadrangidar, eneoBpoaaing an area eighty leet ofoare; ^
principal entrance beiag by a oapitM gate^way^ bftYUig a ji^
•hexagonal turret at each angle, with .coina of the jr^Uov hqkl^
afoone-mentioned, alternately charged ivith 9. W. mid a Tm»
being a quaint deyice for the name of the AnUd^. ThJB si^
of the qnadnmgle Jnaa taken down in 1784. The ao«itii->iro8t fide
<»f -this edifice is wholly occupied by a haU ^ leet loiig, 3$ ind$»
and 3t high. The south-east front has a galleigr ^ the fii^t
4Mory, 141 feet in length, 20 in width, and 14 in height, Qu^
tElizid>eth, in her way to Chichester in l«i91, was eintgri^iio^ ^
this apartment, which, tfirom the ^Lbmndinary ^piantity of fii^
used on the occaaion, or the uegleet of the senrants townee it.pvo-
petty extiqgnished, took fire soon after her departare, when tbat
side of the building was reduced to ashes. In this oondition.it
remained till 1721, when the outer imll> whi^ bad t^mM^
down, was rebuilt, and the whole repaired .by the late Jolyi
Weston, Esq. Under the gallery, on the ground-floor^ are four
large and well-proportioned apartments, but which haYo nerer
been fitted up for use. The present owner has made great im-
.provements both in the house and grounds.*
The manor of Sutton was granted in 1521, by Henry Till,
•to Sir Richard Weston, K^t who, by aabs^oent letters j^atent,
dstri
-a Af anoing «Bd Boy'aSumy, L Ii94*
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drted in the 23d year of 4he mne veigD^ hadliecm tA
600 aeres of land and faatwe, 60 aoras of wood, 4Mid 400 acroa ^ef
furae, in ibe parislMa of Menofw and Clandon. InUa ftnily* ii
cominoed tiii the deeoMe,4n 1782^ of Mn. IfeUw Mafy Woolan,
«lio doviMid this eakate to Jobn Wehbe, £8f . of SimsfioU Cohi^
in ibo CQoaly of Heiofofdy on oondtlioB tlMit Jieislioidd OMmno
the saraame and arms of Weston.
In the church of Woking it interred Sir Edward Zooch« Knt
Marshal of the Household to James I. and Charlss I. ; and agatnsi
the north wall of the chancel u a neat sarcophagns, in a white
narMe "niche, "to tie menery ^df BdwaidCafly, fil. A. pfribe»*
daryof.'Salisbnry, viear of GMHingham and Lavingfton, and Hae-
ter of St NioholM* Hospital «t fiambwn. The inscription ui-
dbms US, that "^his nonanent was elected to the Bemory of the
deceased by Sbnte Barrington, LL.D. soooeasiToly Bishop of
iBolisbury aad Burhaaa, to whom, from a partial opinion, he be*
ijaeathed the whole of his forlnne, and <who tnarta Uwthe has not
sdnisad-tbe confidence reposed in bim/^f
Aobrey, im the idlbrmation of the sexton, rdates, that as kmg
WB there sffeany-rssMiins of a corpse, besides bones, in the ohnreh*
yard
•^ Of tbift fsnily^MSir Bi^wdiWeMoQ, to vkon this eoui^ k indebted
6r the intiodsetion e£ clover, Midprohftkiy •tHnibio and tarqipa, «i well ea
of loclu fer ciuieU. It it probable tbet he went into the i^etberUudi duiiag
the civil wtr ^ but he appears to have returned before the termination of the
contest. Aobrej sajs, that he introduced clover into England about 1645.
'His " Directions for the Improvement of Barren and Heathy Land," were
^psbfisbed about 1650. 'In this work, addressed to his sons, the nature* nses,
HMd'siode'df ookivsiiiig turnips, are 'vesy amply explained. Aobiey, IK.
hM9. dales hisilecMse in 1653. '« in his eKmaciciiaal year, 63."
t "The fectuae tbosfgiven to the Bishop was sspposed to be eeasiderable.
This inscription, with one in the Hospital of Sl Niobolas above:ncatiooed,
i^ight countenance the report that there was implied trast, and that it was to
be gif en to that charitjp ; but his Lordship says that no such intention was
ever expressed by Mr. Emily to him. He has, however, given 60001. in the
three per cent stoekt to the poor there.'* Manohig. and Bfay't Seney,
.Vol.a.p..U0,Dote9.
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M4 sranv.
yard of Woking, % kind of pkmt, about tlio thidcnon ef a fnH"
mh, with a top liko the head of ajspaiagpa, grows irom i% and
shoots np nearly to the snrlaoe of the earth, ahoye which it never
appears; and that when the corpse is qute consamed the plant
dies away. He adds* that the same observation has been nnide
at Send, and in other charch-yaidi^ where the soil is a lii^red
sand, as at Woking.
The Hundred of Cbertsbt, or Godlst,
forms the north-west angle of the coonty. It is boonded on the
east by the Thames and the hundred of Emley4»ridge; on the
south by Woking; on the west by the same hundred and part of
Berkshire ; and on the north by that county and the Tlismei^
which divides it from Middlesex.
This hundred recdved the name of GodUy, that is, Gocf « Uf,
or land, from being for the most part church land, and beloqging
to the Abbey of Chertsey. It still preserres Uiis name in the
county-books, though popularly called after its principal town.
It is in the deanery of Stoke, and comprehends the parishes of
Bisley, Byfieet, Chobham, Chert$ey, Egham, Frimley, Horp^
hill, Pirford, and Thorpe.
Richard I. by his charter, granted this handred, with its joris-
dictions and privileges, to the abbot and convent of Chertsey, with
exemptions from the authority of the sheriff, or any otiier officer
of the crown. In 7 and 8 Edward I. however, Almeric de Caa-
cellis, then sheriff, refused to allow the abbot to exercise his
jarisdiction in the return of the writs; and, on complaint being
made, the king confirmed the privileges given in the former grant
In 9 Edward 11. the abbot of Chertsey is said to have possessed
two parts of this jurisdiction, and the abbot of Westminster the
remaining third. Agreeably to the ancient grants the sheriff of
the county has no authority within this hundred, but directs his
writs to the bailiff of it, who is appointed for life by letters patent
, from the Exchequer,
CBfiRTSXT»
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lURRBT. M5
€HEftT8IY>
the capital of ibis himdred, and the only market-town within ita
Umita, w aitaated on the faanka of the Tharoea, twenty-two milea
aovth-west from London. In 1801 tbia town and parish contained
652 houaea, and 2819 inhabitants. The market, on Wednesdays,
ia well supplied: and there are four annoal ftira; on the first
Monday in Lent, May 14, August 6, and Sept 26, chiefly for
horses and ealde.
V Chertsey is a place of considerable antiquity ; ite Saxon name
was Ceorteteye ; and Bede calls it Cerati Insula, whence it is
conjectured to have been in his time entirely surrounded by water.
At this early period the town principally received cousequence
liraai an abbey for Benedictine monks, founded here in 666 by
Finthwold, governor of Sairey under Wulpbar, King of Mercia.
This edifice, dedicated to St Peter, was pillaged and destroyed
by the invading Danes. It waa soon afterwards rebuilt, in the
tenth century, by King Edgar, who conferred on it various pri-
vileges. The abbot is said by some writers to have had a seat
in Puliament as one of the twenty-nine abbots and priors who
hM of the king per Bartmiam ; but others assert that, though
he was esteemed a baron, he did not sit in Parliament. " He
was,'' Kays Salmon, " a kind of little prince hereabouta, whose
lands, and parcels of land, were as endless to enumerate, as it
would be the possessors who have held them since the Dissolu-
tion.'' In the church belonging to this foundation, the body of
the unfortunate Henry YI. was first interred without any funeral
pomp, and here remained till removed by Henry VII. to Wind-
sor, and buried in a manner better suited to his rank. At the
suppression, in 1538, the annual revenues of Chertsey abbey were
estimated at 6591. according to Dugdale ; though Speed makes
them amount to 7441.
Of this once extensive edifice nothing is now left but some
small fragmenta of walls. On its site a handsome structure,
called tbe Abbejf House, waa erected by Sir Nicholaa Carew,
master of the back hounds to Charles II. which, says the Magna
Britannia^
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9M aintRXT.
Britannia, was bailt out of tke ttuob of the great aUiey, of whicb
aothing thai nmoimmI stnidiiig Imt tmme of Uie osier valk.''*
The AUboy Hovse was taLaa tfewa aboat fcwa yean ag«; haft a
bam wfaieh fimaed part ef the office^ and ia. evidaniiy
of theatooeaof tbaaneient nonaafeery, is atiU alaadia^.
Tlie diarchy dedioatoil to St. Aon, is haadaome m^
The M atmctDro, faaviogbacoiae macb decv^ed^ was taken dam
about the year 1804, and aabatantially rebuilt; with tl» eaMi|H
tam of the dnnoel^ m the Gethie sfcjrle. The tower, winch ia
aqware, eontaiaa aix belb; and liie eaat window ia adonwd wiA
aane painted g^aaa. The exteraal appeazaace of the Awrth ia
spdM with whttewaak
In Oe street leading to the sooth is aitaated P^nklhtmt,
onee Ae letiieMeDt of C^wiey, the poet, and now the i
of Richnrd Clarke, Esq. Chankberlam of the City of
Part of the eld stmctoie ia carefully preserved ; bat great iai-
proTeaMttts hare been made by the preaest proprietor, aa nell in
the baiUings aa the grounds.
The CAertly Sckool, was foaaded m 1735^ by Sir Wtflia*
PerluBS, for edncating and clothing tweaty-five poorbo3f8y and
the same aamber of girk ; and there ase five abna-henaea in the
town, buih aad endowed by differeat persoas, whidi are under
the management of the parish offieers.
Near the church, in the principal street, a handsome Mmrkei^
house has recently been erected.
Across the Thames from Chertsey to the opposite shore at
littletoa, is a noUe Brit^ of Purbeck stone, built at the joint
expense of the counties of Surrey and Middlesex. It cenaista of
ae? en archea ; was begun by Mr. Srown, of Richmcuid, in 1983,
and finished in 1785, from the designs of Jamea Payne, Eaq. of
Says, near Chertsey.
About a mile westward of Cheitsey is St Ann's Hill, of which
Skriae, in his Rivers of Greta Briiaim, gives the following de-
scription :<— '* St Anne's Hill starts up abruptly on the aoath-
west
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#0«t of Chertsey. Th« I<nr«r ptrU of it iNr cl«Uiedl viOi wood,
kit the rid^ i* ataKyH terel alter it gets akrre the eiidMf»e»^
presenting a delighUnlly verdant wrik to the MiglilNrarbood, and
tenmiiialiog in two vOfieffaMa Ama, where the deaeent ia almost
feifeadfealar into the plaia. The prospect hefe ia more happily
UrtAed Ihaft at Hamnr, yel wondeifhUy exteaahre, eateept to^
wiAk tha aoatb and WAit, wkMfe the bhiif point of Cooper's UiH
otohidea the fiew of Whidkor; and the bare ridgea of Bagshot*
fcaath tiftoaaiaoribe the horisoa. On tiio eaat» the Sarrey Downs
appear well ranged behind the nearer heathy ridge of BU Oeoige'a
bills ; and, wiih the tmiireueeo of Norwood, Sydenham, and the
nwro distawt amnmil of Sbooter's-hiU, in Kent, together with
ttMeof Highgale^ Hampatead, Baaby, and Hanow, in Middle-
sot, form the oalline ^ that famense plain, in which the dome
of St Panl'a Cathednd, and the lofty pile of WeatmhiBter Abbey,
enveloped in perpetaal smoke, mark the prond position of the me-
tropolis of England, sorronnded by a numerous tribe of villages,
and a most abundant popnlation. The Thames here shews itself
to great advantage, making a bold aweep to approach Chertsey-
bridge, and intersecting the plain with ita varioos meanders/'*
On the south side of this hill is the seat of the late Right Hon.
Charlea Jamea Fox, now the residence of his widow, the gaidena
and pleaaare-grounda of whioh are laid oat in such a style as does
great credit to that eminent stateaman. On the declivity of tha
aame hiU ia Monk's Grote, a neat brick building belonging to Lord
M ontford. The garden aeems to have been cut out of the hill at
a great expense by some former proprietor, aa it is secured from
Intruders on the south and west sides by a perpendicular preci-
pice. In a grove above the garden is a ruinous building of brick
and stone, the remains of a chapel or cell, erected there by the
monks of Chertsey. Near it rises a spring, highly celebrated in
former times for its virtues, which is received into a bason about
twelve feet square, paved and lined with fine tilea.
. On a neighbonring hill ia i^# Gro^, the reaidence of ^— —
Ross,
• P. S5S, 4.
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388 0URRBY.
Roes, Esq. which commands extenuve protpecUi. A hxge sheet
of water on the west side of the house adds mnch to the betutica
of this pleasant mansion.
About a mile from Ly ne Grove is Botky$, the seat of Sir Joseph
Mawbey^ Bart It is an elegant stone mansion, sitaated in a
park well stocked with timber and abounding in game. Tbe
principal front, which faces the west, is ornamented with a pedi«
ment in the oentrSy and has a rustic basement ; and the grounds
are adorned with a fine piece of artificial water, having a bstb at
the head of it
Wohmm Farm, about a mile southward of Chertsey, is t&e
residence of Sir John St Aubyn. It is a handsome brick edifice,
the grounds of which were first planned and laid out by the late
Philip Southcote, Esq. the inventor of the ferme omit, whon
MasoUj in his English Garden, thus apostrophizes : —
On thee too, Soatbcote, shall the Muie bectoir
No Tolgar pritiw ; for thou to hamblest things
Could'st give ennobling beauties : deck'd by tbce^
The simple fmrm edtps'd the garden^s pride,
£'ra as the Tirgin blush of innocence
The harlotry of art.
These grounds are agreeably refreshed by a serpentine canal,
which, after winding through them in a pleasing manner, termi-
nates in the Wey at the distance of a mile.
Oticrshaw, not far from Wobum Farm, is a noble stone inaR«
sion built by Sir Thomas Sewell, many years master of the rolIa>
and now the residence of James Bine, Esq.
EoHAM is a large village situated near the Thames, in the
north-west comer of the county, consisting of one street neariy a
mile in length, and, according to the enumeration of 1801, con*
taining, with the parish, 363 bouses, and 2190 inhabitants.
This place has many respectable inns, and seems to be in a
thriving state, the principal source of its prosperity being de-
rived torn its situation as a great thoroughfare from the metro-
polis to the west and south of the kingdom, ,p.
9
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SURREr. 2S9
The dmith, ftpparently of considerably antiquity, has exter-
nally bat a mean appearance. It is built of stone, with a modem
mixture of brick, and covered with white stucco. Among the
most remarkable of its monuments are those of John de Ruther-
WTctr^ abbot of Chertsey, and of Sir John Denham, a baron of the
Exchequer, (father of the poet of the same name,) who, with his
two wives, is interred at the east end of the chancel. That
learned jadge resided at the parsonage in this town ; and founded
an alms-house here for five poor women.
On the north side of the street is a range of Alms-houses,
founded in 1706 by Mr. Henry Strode, merchant, of London, for
SIX men and six women, who must be sixty years of age, and
have been parishioners of Egham twenty years without receiving
any parochial relief. The centre of this building, which exhibits
an appearance of neatness and comfort that reflects much credit on
the trustees of the charity, is a good house for a schoolmaster,
who has a salary of forty pounds per annum, besides an allowance
for an assistant, for the education of twenty poor boys of Eg-
ham.
Northward of Egham, between the town and the Thames, ia
Runnymead, which will ever be celebrated in the history of thi»
«M)untry as the spot where the assembled barons, in 1215, com*
pelled King John,- who had in vain resorted to the most criminal
prevarications, to grant what is emphatically denominated Magna
Charta, the great cliartcr of the liberties of Britons. Here his
consent was extorted ; but the treaty is said to have been actu-
ally signed on an island in the Thames still called Ciiarter Island*
and included in the parish of Wraysbury, Buckinghamshire. In
memory of this foundation of the glorious fabric of British free-
dom, a plan, patronized by some of the most distinguished politi-
cal characters, was a few years since proposed for the erection of a
pillar in this celebrated mead ; but for some reason or other it
has been relinquished by the projectors. This spot is said to have
received its present appellation of Runnymead, or more properly.
Vol. XIV. U Running.
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990 SURREY.
Ronningmead, from tbe horse-races annually held here or tbe 4tli
of September, and the two foHowing days.
Cooper's Hili, sung by Deniiain, is situated to the west
of Eirliam. Ou this hill is Kiiinsirood Lodge, the elegant
seat of Flounder, £sf|. Near the house a late proprietor
has placed a seat, which the votaries of the Muses will regard
with veneration, as it is the very spot whence Sir John Denfaam
took his view of the rich and varied scenery which he has so hap-
pily described in his celebrated poem.*
At
* An ingenious, but perhaps fastidious critic, has obsenred, that Cooper*!
Hill, the professed subject of this piece, is not mentioned by name; neither
b any acctmnt given of its situation, produce, or history ; bat that it icrvca
like the stand of a telescope, merely as a convenience for viewing other objecti.
Br. Juhnbon, a critic much too rigid to bow to popular opinion, has judged
more favorably, we might say, more justly, of the merits of this perform-
ance ; — " Cooper's Hill," sa^s he, *' is the work that confers upon Denhaa
the rank and dignity of an original author. He seems to have been> at least
among us, ihe author of a species of com|>ositi«>n that may be termed local
poetry, of which the fundamental subject is some particular landscape, to bo
poetically described, with the addition of such embellishments as may be
supplied by historical retrospection, or incidental meditation. To trace a
new species of poetry has in itself a very high claim to praise ; and its praise
is yet more, when it is apparently copied by Garth and Pope. Yet Cooper'a
Hill, if it be maliciously inspected, will not b« found without its faults. The
digressions are too long, tlie morality too frequent, and the sentiments some-
times such as will not bear a rigorous enquiry." — Praise thus extorted frooi
a critic not unreloctant to censure, will contribute to secure the fame of Deo*
ham, which the charming eulogy of the bard of Windsor Forest would i
liave rendered immortal :---
Bear me, oh ! bear roe, to sequester*d acenesj
To bowery maaes and surrounding greens ;
To Thames's bank, which fragrant breeses filf.
Or where the Muses sport on Cooper's Hill.
(On Cooper's Hill eternal wreaths shall grow.
While laaU the mountain or while Tbanet ditll low.)
Ii
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flORRET. S91
At PiRFORD was a maDsioD-house built by Sir John Wolley,
to whom the^ manor was granted by Queen Elizabeth. At this
place, while in the possession of his son. Sir Francis WoUey^
the celebrated Dr. John Donne for many years spent the greatest
part of his time.* It was afterwards the residence of Sir Robert
U 2 Parkhurs^
I leem tbrongb consecrated walks to rove,
I hear soft miuic die along the grove :
Led by the toand I rove from shade to sbadfli.
By godiike poet) venerable made ;
Here his first lays majestic Benham aong ;
There the last numbers flow*d from Cowley's tongue.
* The Doctor, in the early part of his life, before he took orders, was
secretary to the Lord Chancellor Egertou, and continued in that employment
five years. Sir George More's daughter lived in the family of the Lord
Chancellor^ nnd wa? niece to his lady. Sir George having aome intimation
of the mutual passion of his daughter and Mr. Donne, removed her in all
haste from the Chancellor's to his own house at Loseley ; and the friends on
both sides endeavoured to extinguish their affection for each other, but to no
purpose ; for, having exchanged the most faithful promisesj tliey found means
to have their marriage privately consummated. The affair was broken in th«
softest manner to Sir George by his friend and neighbor the Earl of Nor«
thumberland. But Sir George was so transported with anger, tliat he pre*
vailed upon his sister, the Lord Chancellor's lady, to join with him in requir-
ing Donne's dismission, and woald not be satisfied till his suit was granted.
Tiie Chancellor, on dismissing him, declared, that " He parted with a friend^
and such u secretary ai was fitter to serve a king than a subject." Sir
George's anger was not satisfied till Mr. Donne, with Mr. Samuel Brooke
who married him, and his brother, Mr. Christopher Brooke, who gave the
lady in marriage, were all committed to three several prisons. Bonne, who
was first enlarged, never rested, till, by his solicitations and interest, he pro-
cured the liberty of his friends. He was afterwards pot to the tronble of a
long and expensive law-soit to recover his wife, who was forcibly detained.
At length time aiid his extraordinary merit and engaging behaviour so far
wrought upon Sir George, that be was prevailed upon to use his interest
with the Chancellor that his son-in-iaw might be restored to hb post ; but bis
request was refused, the Chancellor returning for answer, that though he was
infetgnedly loiry for what he had done, yet it was inconsistent with his
plact
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293 SORRET.
Pftrkhurst, his son and grandson, and then came into the pos-
session of Denzil Onslow, Esq. There was also a park weO^
wooded and stocked with deer ; bnt after the estate hecame united
with that of Lord Onslow, the house was polled down, and the
park turned into (arms. A gateway, with I. W. the initials of
the builder, and some of the garden walls, yet remain. An
atvenue of elms and birches a quarter of a mile long, and in Au-
brey's time more than twice that length, kd to the gateway.
The decoy mentioned by Aubrey was suffered to go to decay;
but being purchased with other property of Lord Onslow by the
late Lord King, he restored it to its former state, and it is now
kept up.
plioe and credit to discharge and re-admit aenranti at the request of paa*
■ibhate petitiooera." As for Sir George, he was so iar reconciled to Mr.
Dbirne and his wife, as not to deny them his paternal blessing ; but would
contribate nothing towards their support, though they had great need of itt
Iffr. Donne's fortone being much diounished by the expense of his travels,
books, law-suit, and the generosity of his temper. The wants of liis family
were, however, in some measure supplied by the seasonable bounty of their
kihsman. Sir Francis Wolley, who entertained them till bis death, at bis house
at Pirford, where several of his children were bom. Sir Francis, a little be-
io#e lus death; brought about a reconciliation between Mr. Donne and his
father-in-law. Sir George, obliging himself to pay Mr. Donne on a certain
day 8001. as a portion with his wife, or SOL quarterly for their mainte-
luCncey till that portion was paid. On the death of Sir Francis in 1610 he
look a hoose for his family at Mitcham in this county. — (Walton^a lift of
PoDBe^Biog. Brit. Y. SJS.)
ALI8T
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LIST
OP TBB PRrNCIPAL
BOOKS, MAPS, AND VIEWS,
THikT KAVB BBSN P0BLI8BBD IN
UlustriUumofthe Topography, Antiquities, ifc. oftht
COUNTY OF SURREY.
Towards the middle of the seventeenth century, Sir Edward
Bysthe, a native of Surrey, announced his intention of publishing a
Survey, or History ot this County. It is certain that he made some
collections for the purpose as some fragments of them are in-
terspersed in his notes on Upton De studio miUtari, Lond. 1654.
fol. ; but the office of Garter King at Arms, to which the Parlia-
ment appointed him in 1645, though five years before, he, with other
members, had voted it illegal, diverted him from the prosecution of
his design.
The plan of a History of Surrey was, however, resumed before
the death of Sir Edward Bysshe by Aubrey, who was furnished with
a reauisition to all justices, mayors, and other officers in general, to as-
sist nim in making an actual survey of the county, and to give him
free access to all such public registers and other books as might pro-
mote the ideographical and historical description of the kingdoms
which Ogilby was authorized by the royal warrant' to prepare. Au-
brey accordingly perambulated the whole county, and fab labours
Were revised, corrected, and published by Dr. Rawlinson, under the
title of: " Tlie Natural History and Antiquities qf the County^
Surrey, begun in the year 1673, by- John Aubrey, Esq. F. R. S, and
continued to the present time. Illustrated wzth proper sculptures,
Lond. 1719." 5 vols. 8vo. A second edition, appeared in 1723, brought
down to that time, by Dr. Rawlinson.
A few years afterwards appeared the *' Antiquities rf Surrey, coU
lectedj'rom the most ancient Records, mih sotne Account of the pre*
sent State and Natural History of that County. By N. Salmon,
LL. B. Lond. 1736." 8vo.
Sucli were the only publications that had appeared respecting this
district in general, when the late Rev. Mr. Manning began to form
collections for a work which should truly deserve the name of a
County Hlstoiy. On this undertaking, for which he was eminently
qualified by his critical skill in the Saxon language, and his general
learning, he bestowed unwearied attention for thirty years, till the loss
U3 of
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M4 UST OF BOOKS, kc
of light suspendecl, and death put a final period to, his labours. He had
formed a plan diiTering in one respect from that of any preceding
writer on the subject. He began with the Terra Regis in Domes-
day ; and after illustrating it by a commentary, he intended to deduce
the history of those particular estates to modern times. He had him-
self drawn a map of all tlie places in the County mentioned in that
venerable record, (which is given in the first volume,) andhad caused to
be engcaved on copper a /ac simile of the whole of it which relates to
this county ; he bad written an introduction ; be bad drawn up and
transcribed nearly all this part. For the rest of the county he had made
large collections; but these were left merely in the form of Dotes»
wttli the exception of a very few parishes, which he* had begun to
digest. In this situation were his papers at the time of his death»
when an application was made to the late Mr. Gough to superintend
the publication, but declined bv him. Under these circumstances
the task was undertaken by William Bray, Esq. a gentleman paiticu^
larly well qualified for the task, from having attended from an early
part of life to the history ot his native soil, and the opportunities
which he possessed of giving considerable information, as well from
his own collections as from the British Museum, and who has per-
sonally visited nearly all the churches in the county. Under bis
superintendence the first and second volumes have appeared, under
the title of •' The History and Antiquities of the County of Surrey,
compiled from tlie best and most authentic Historians^ valuable Re-
cords and Manuscripts in the Public Offices and Libraries, and in
Private Hands, ff^ith a fac simile copy of Domesday, engraved on
thirteen plates. By the late Rev, Owen Manning, S, T. B, rector qf
Peperharr&w, and vicar of Godalmitut in that County. Continued
to the Present Time. By ff^illiam Bray qf Shire, Esq, Fellow and
Treasurer of the Society of Antiquaries qf London. Fol, I, 1S04.
PoL IL 1809.'* folio. These volumes are illustrated with numerous
views and plans ; and the third, which will complete the woric, is
expected to appear early in 1813.
" General Vicxij of the Agriculture of the County qf Surrey,
Draun up for the Board of Agriculture, andJntemal Improve'
went. By ff'illiam Stevenson, 1809." 8 vo. With a map shewing
the different soils of the county.
*' A Report on the State of the Heaths, Commons, and Common
Fields," 4to. was drawn up by Mr. James Malcolm in 1794, by desire
ef the Board of Agriculture, The same writer has published
•* A Compendium of Modem Husbandry, principally written dur^
ing a Survey of the County of Surrey, made at the desire qf the
Board qf Agriculture. By James Malcolm. Land. 1805." In 3 vols.
8vo.
Skrine, in his Account of the Rivers of Great Britain, has Intro-
duced descriptions of some of the most prominent scenes in this
county. ■ "
A pretty copious account of such of the parishes of Surrey as lie In
the immediate vicinity of the metropolis will be found in " The £n^
mrons qf* London, being an Historical Account of the Touns^ Fif
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UST OF BOOKS, &C. f9S
kges, and Hamlets, xnthin Twelve Milts of that Capita!: interspersed
with Biographical Anecdotes. Jiff the Hev. Datiiel Lysons, A. M.
F. /?. S. F, S. A. and L. S. Rector oJRodtnarton in Gloucestershire,
Second Edition. Lond. 181 1." 4to.
Of this Edition the Surrey parishes occupy the whole first part of
the first volame^ and a portion of the Appendix subjoined to the se-
cond part
" The Histfjry qf Guildford, the County-town of Surrey, Con-
tasmng its Ancient and Present Slate, Civil and Ecclesiastical ; col"
lected from Public Records and other Authorities. tVith some Ac-
count qf theCoufitry three miles round, Guildford, 1801 ." 8vo. For
this History the public is indebted lo Mr. Russcl, bookseller, and a
■atiTe of Guildford.
A considerable part of the second volume of Ihc Bihliothtca To*
pogn^ikica Britannica is devottd lo tlie illustration of the History of
jLaxnbeth and Croydon, and contains the four following tracts:
'* The History and Antiquities of the Arc Id episcopal Palace of
Lambeth from its foundation to the present time. By Dr, DucareL
F. R,andA. S. S. Land, 1785.*' 4to. witli 10 plates.
" The History and Antiquities ofthePansh of Lambeth ^ in the
County of Surrey, including Biographical Anecdotes of several emi"
nent persons, compiled Jrom Oriniitial Records, and other Authentic
Sources qf Information, Land, 1786." 4io. with 19 plates.
" Some account qfthe Town, Church, and Archiepiscopal Palace,
qf Croydon, in the County of Surrey ffrmn its foundation to the y ar
1783. By Dr, Ducarel, F, R, and A, S. S. Lond, 1783." 4to. with
10 plates.
" The Case of the Inhabitants of Croydon, 1673, with an Appendix
to the History of that Town. A List qf'the Manorial Houses which
formerly belonged to the See of Canterbury, A Description of Trinity
Hospital, Guilford; and of Alhury House; with Brief Notes on
Battersea, Chels/mm, Nutjieldt and Tatsjield, in the County nf Surrey,
Lond, 1787." 4to. with views of Trinity Hospital, Guildtord, Aid-
bury House, Nuttield, and Tatsfield Churches^ and a Map of the
County.
The fifth Dumber of Miscellaneous Antiquities published in con-
tinuation of the Bib, Top, Brit, contain*;; ** Historical Particulars
(^Lambeth Parish and Lambeth Palace, in Addition to the Histories
bu Dr, Ducarel in the Bibliotheca lopographicu Britannica, By the
Rev, Samuel Denne, M, A, F, S, A. f'icar of tfUmingtonandDitrenth,
Kent, 1795." 4to.
" The History and Antiquities of the Parish of St, Saviour^s,
SouUiwark, illustrated with Plates, By M, Concanen, jun, and A.
Morgfln, 1795." 8vo.
." The Rarities of Richmond : being Exact Descriptions of the Her»
mitaee and Merlin's Cave in the Gardens there, Lond, 1735." 8vo.
mthnis Life and Prophecies, 1736." 8vo.
" Two Historical Accounts of the nutking New Forest in Hamp*
U 4 shin.
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i9Q U8T or BOOKS^ kc.
Mre, by William tJte Canqueror, and Siehmond New Path inSurrcg,
hij Kiiiir Charles L" Lond. 1750. 8vo.
Piefixed is a paltry plate designed as a View of tbe Park, en-
compassed by a wall and several roads marked out. There is a breach
in the wall, through wbicli several persons, and among them a clergy-
man in Ills canonical bubit, have got into tbe park ; Boiue are bitf-
zaing and waving their hUs, vvhiie oliieis are sitting on the wall. This
pamphlet was probably published by tliose who in the following years
prosecuted the suits for the ojjslruciion of tbe foot-paths through tbis
In 1807, the Bev. Thomas Maurice published a descripliTe aod
historical poem in 4to. intituled "lUcJimond Hill, in two ca}itos,"the
£rst of which is descriptive of scenes and objects in tbe immediate
\icinily, tbe second of those which are surveyed from it at a distance,
and both containing tributes to the many eminent and illustrious cha-
racteri who have resided, or are now resident, at tbe several places no-
ticed in the poem.
'^ lorresia de Windsor in Com. Surrnj. The mens, meets, iimtSt
end bounds oj the Forest of Windsor, in the County aj Surrey, as the
same are found, set out, limited and bounded liy inquisition, taken
by rertue of his Majesty* s Conwnssion in pursuance of one act fkode
in the Parliament begun at West minster in the Ifitk year of the
Jleign of our Sovereign Lord King Charles, entitled an Jclfor the
certainly of Forests, and of the mats, limits and bounds of Forests, as
the same now remains upon record in his Majesty*^ High Court qf
Chancery. Lond. 1646." 4to.
A Catalogue of tbe Plants in the Royal Gardens at Kew xns pub-
lished by Dr. John (afterwards Sir John) Hill in 1768, under the title
of " llortus KeKcnsis,'* 8vo, A second edition appeared in 1769,
\vith 20 plates.
Under the same title a much more copious account of them was
given in 1789, by Mr. "William Alton, who had been superinteudent
of this collection from its first establishment in 1759. The work con-
sists oi three octavo volumes, illustrated with plates, and containing an
account of 5400 plants, many of which had hitherto been unnoticed
even by the celebrated Linnains. In 1783, tlie care of ail the gardens
at this place was committed to Mr. Alton ; and on bis death, in 1793,
the same appointment was conferred by his Majesty on his son
William Thomas Alton, who is now publishing a new edition of his
fjlhei's work.
Charles Louis 1* Heritier Baron Brulette spent fifteen months in
examining and procuring drawings of the most valuable and least
kuown plants in the Englibh gardens; and on his return to France
puhlbht'd ; " Sertum Anglicum seu Plantcs rariores in horto regio
AexLtvsi Sf aliis juxta Londinum. Par. 1788," folio, 24 plates^ ww
36 pages.
Mi>s Mceu published two numbers of exotic plants cultivated io tbe
Ko)al Gardens, 1791.
A sinule folio number of Bauer's Delineation of exotic Planet
culuvuted in these gardens, vas published by Mr. Aitopi jun. 179^
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UfT O* BOOKS^ &c. 907
Kew Gardens vcre celebrated in two 4to poems by George Ritso^
1763, and Henry Jones, 1767.
An account of the modern improvements at this place may be
found in a publication intituled ; " Plans, Elevations, Sections, and
perspective / icws of the Gardens and Buildings of Kew, designed
01/ iViiliam Chambers, and engraved on forty-six Copper-plates/*
1763."
The Charters granted to Kingston bv Edward IV. Elizabeth, and
Charles I. are printed at the end of " Liber JSiger Scaccarii,** 1771,
(I. 397) edited by Sir Joshua Ayloffe, Bart. F. A. S. whose father bad
been Recorder of Kingston.
'* The History, Design, and Present State qf the Various Public
Charities in and near London. By A. Highmore, Esq, Lond. 1810."
12mo. Many of the institutions treated of in this interesting volume
are situated in the county of Surrey.
The imposture of Mary Toft, the pretended rabbit-breeder of God-
aiming, furnished occasion for a multitude of pamphlets too numerous
to be specified here. A list of fifteen publications on this fertile sub-
ject is given in Manning and Bray's Surrey, Vol. I.
Dr. Nehemiah Grew published a small volume, intituled, ** Trac»
iatus de Sails cat hart ici amaro in aqitis Ebeshamensibus et hujusmodi
aliis contcnti, naturd et usu, 1695. 12mo. This tract was pub-
lished hi English in 8vo. 1697.
In 1G99 Benjamin Allen, M. B. published a Natural History qf
the Chah/btat and Purging fFaiers of England,, in which is an Ac-
count oi those of Epsom.
Observations and Experiments on this Salt, by John Brown, Che-
mist, are printed in the Philosophical Transactions, No. 377, and
378. In tr.e same collection. No. 496, is an account of an experi-
ment made by Dr. Stephen Hales, from whicb it appears that a pound
avoirdupois of this water, evaporated to dryness, deposited a sediment
Mxighing thirty-four grains.
In Lloyd's Evening Post in August 1769, was printed a Concise
Hii^torical Account of the Old Epsom Wells on Epsom Common.
«• The Description of Epsom, with the Humours and Politics of the
Place; in a Letter to Eudoxa, Lond. 1711.*' 8vo. was written
byToland. This Description he afterwards corrected, enlarged, and
explained, so as to make it almost a new work, for which reason he
gave it the title of ." A New Description of Epsom,^* under which it
is inserted in his Posthumous Worlis, Vol. II. p. 91. Lond. 17^20,
and ia his Miscellaneous Works, 1747, Vol. II. p. 60 — 119.
«• Box Hill, a Descripii'ce Poem, By Edward Beavan, Lond.
1777." 4to.
The Annates Waverleiense^, transcribed from a MS. in the Cotton
Library, were published in the second volume of Gale's • Historut
AnglicaniB Scnptores.** Oxen. 1687.
In the Gentleman's Magazine for 1763, p. 220, is an account of
Dorking parish and its environs, on a plan proposed for a Natural
History of England. The neighbourhood of that town^ with the
vale
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f99 LIST OF BOOEt, &€.
▼ale of Leatherhead, is also described in the MotUhSy Hagaiine, VoL
VI. p. 161.
MAPS, PLANS, AND VIEWS.
Nordcn maile a survey of this county, T^hich some curious Dutch*
man piircliased at a higli price soon after the Restoration. The map
was engraved by Charles Whitwell, at the expense of Mr. Robert
Nicholson, and was much larger and more exact than any of Nor-
den*s other maps. It was illustrated with the arms of Sir William
Waade, Mr. Nicholson, and Isabella, Countess Dowager of Rut-
land, who died in 1605 ; and was copied by Speed and W. Kip in
Camden's Britannia, 1607. * The map prefixed to Aubrey's Surrey tt
much in Norden's manner.
" A Topographical Map of the County qf Surrey in eight ahecU
on a scale of two inches to a mile. By John Hocque. 1762."
The best modern Map is comprehended in two sheets, and is- inti-
tuled, " The County of Surrey, from a Survey made in the yean
1789 and 1790. By Joseph Lindiey and IViUiam Crosley. Pubusked
for Lindiey and Crosley, 1793."
Smaller Maps of Surrey have been given by Smith and Carey
among their County maps ; and also in tne Atlas which accompanies
this Work.
*' The greater part of Surrey is comprehended in Edzvard^s Gtf-
neral Map qf' \-\0Q square miles, in nhich thcsituniton of Churches,
Noblemen* s and Gentlemen's Seats, principal Roads, uith their adjor
cent Parks, Forests, Commons, Hirers, Brooks, JInis, Src. mostly
laid dotmfrom the author's own observations, and htj him engraved
with uncommon labour and accuracy, 4*c* Published by Ed::;ards,
Bctchworth, Surrey, 1792."
All the views of ttichnond Palace that are now to be met with were
taken in the early part of the seventeenth century while it was entire.
Tlie principal are :
1. That of the front next the river, engraved at the expense of the
Society of Antiquaries in 1765, from an ancient drawing belonging to
the late Duke of Montague.
2. The same View, but on a smaller scale, engraved by Vander-
gucht, and, as is generally supposed, from a drawing of Hollar. It
is this that is prefixed to the fifth volume of Aubrey's Surrey, and in-
serted in Lysons' Environs of London, I. 442. ' •
3. A View of what is calleil the front towards the Green, engraved
also in 1765 at the expense of the Society of Antiquaries, from an ori-
l^inal painting nine feet ten inches in length, and four feet eleven inches
in depth, in the possession of Lord Viscount Fitzwilliam ; and exe-
cuted, as is supposed, by one of Rubens' disciples 'un the earlier part of
the reign of Cliarles I. But as the front is totally unlike that of tbe
old palace toward the Green» as described in the Survey, and as in
some measure it still exists ; it is thought with greater probability to
bave been intended for th« Lodge in the o/d rark, with which it
sulicieotlj corresponds.
t • i.Am
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un Of Booxs^ 5eo* f09
4. An ancient Painting by Vinkeboom, in the possesion of Lord Vis-
count Fitzwilliann, being a view of the palace taken from the meadow
<Mi the other side of the water, with niorrice-danceni in masquerade in
the fore-ground on the mer-side; which was engraved in 1774 by
R. D. Godfrey.
5. A View by Benning in Grove's Life of Cardinal Woltey^
I. 253.
6. An cast View of it, as in ]737« was published by S. and N.
Back.
Of the New Lodge, Ftchwond Park, there is a plan and elevation
in the continuation of the Vitruvius Britarnicus, IV, PI. 1—4. by
Candon and Millar. The architects were S. Wright and R. Morris.
Another View of it by Watts after G. Barrett, 1780. PI. 16.
*' A Plan of his Majesty's Aexv Park at Richmond in Surrey^
taken Sept. 1749. by George Eyre, Surveyor."
*' Collections relating to Henry Smith, Esq, some time Alderman
rf London; the estates given by him to charitable uses and the trustees
appointed by him,** were published by William Bray, Esq. the trea-
mrer, in 1802.
The residence of Dr. Leltsom at Grove Hill, Camberwell, has
been the subject of a pamphlet, intituled, " Grove Hill, a Horticul"
tural Sketch, 1804." 4to. with several engravings ; and of a Descriptlye.
Poem by the Rev. William Maurice, author of Indian Antiquities.
There are two scarce Prints of ff^inibledon House by Winstanley.
Under one of these, dated 1678, is this insciiption : " Wimbledon in
Suney, six miles distant from London, the mansion-house belonging
to the Right Hon. Thomas Earl of Danby, Lord High Treasurer of
England, and Knight of the most honourable order of the Garter
1678 ; to whose lordship this plate is dedicated by hi^ honoris most
humble servant Henry Winstanley, at Llttlebury, in Essex, fecit.'*
The other, representing the garden front, is thus inscribed ; " Wim-
bledon as it is seen from the great walk of trees in the principal garden,
with a side prospect of that part which is towards the orange-garden ;
and with a view of the orange-garden and orange-house. Henry
Winstanley, at Littlebury, m £^ex, fecit.*'
In Sebastian Braun's work, intituled, " Civiiates Orhis Terrarum,
there is an engraving oi Nonsuch Palace, which has been copied by
Lysons. Over it is this inscription : *' Palatium Regium in Anglis
Regno, appellatum Nonciutz ; hoc est, nusquam simile." And un-
derneath : '' Efligiavit Georgius Hoefnaglius, Anno 1582." Ihere it
also a small engraving of it in the corner of Speed's Map of Surrey.
Of Roehampton House there are two plates in the Vitruvius Britan-
nicus^ Vol. 1. p. 80, Bl.
A View of the Earl of Besborough*s house at Roehampton, is ffiven
in the same work, IV. p. 1 1 — 13 ; also a View of H^imbledon House^
after a design of the Earl of Pembroke, V. 31, 22. It was this build-
ing that was burned down in 1785.
In
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S0O u»T tf "B&ok^, fte.
In Leoni's edition of Alberti's Architecture* are eleven engnvingi
of the plans and elevations of the intended mansion of James bcawein
£sq. of Carshaltott Park,
A View of the ancient Castle of Reigatc, and a plan of its site iS
given in Watson's ** MenK>ir8 of tlie £aris of Warren and Suney,**
1. 28, 29.
The Chapel qfSi, Mary at Kingston was engraved at the expense
of the late Nicholas Hardinge, Esq. M. P. and is copied in Mao*
sing's Surrey.
Grose, in his Antiquities, Vol- V. has given the following Views io
this county: Catharine Hill, near Guildford, Croydon Church f
Croydon Palace; Famliam Castle, two views: Guilford Castle f
Anciait Crypt in Guildford ; Martha's Hill Chapel, near Guildford;
Mother Ludham's Hole, in Moor Park ; Newark Priory ; Waver*
kf Abbey, two views. i
In the Antiquarian and Topographical Cabinet, No. 20, are en-
f ravings and descriptions of Loseley Manor House; Guildford;
eep of Guildford Castle ; Interior of the Keep ; St. Martlu^s
Chapel and St. Catharine*s Cluipel. In No. 23, Reigate Castle. In
No. 38, the Gateway behnpng to the Monastery of St. Mary
Overey, Souihwark ; and in No. 39, Beddington Church and Manot
House, and the Font in Beddington Church.
In the Antiquarian Repertory, Vol. I. are given representations of
some rude figures scratched on the chalk-wali of Guildford Castle and
a view of Godalming,
The.
of the
Athlon
House, Camberwell ; XV; Addiscomb flouse ; XVII. Kew Bridge;
XX. Dulwich College; XXII. Woodraanston Church; XXVII.
WoburnFarm; XXXV. Egham Church and Grotto at OaUands;
XL. Freemason's Charity School, Sfr. George's Fields; and New-
ington Church ; XLI. Coade's Gallery, Lambeth ; XLIII. Foun-
tain at Dr. Lettsom*s, Camberwell, and the late Mr. Sewell's Villa at
Battersea; XLV. Battenea Rise ; XLVIL Camberwell Churchy
INDEX
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INDEX
W
THE COUNTY OF SURREY.
^BBOT, Archbishop, hU moDQ-
mtatf 260; hospital foqndcd b^
him« 263; account of him^ 269.
— — Maorice, ^70.
■ Robert, ib.
Addington, remarkable tenore, 129.
tiace, ISO.
Addiacombe lloose, near Croydon,
198.
Aidburv, remains of a Roman tern*
pie, 222 ; the church, 224.
— Place, 222.
Allen, William, his monnroent, 69.
Alleyne, Edward, account of him,
99, note.
Angell, John, Esq. his intended col-
lege, 95.
Apse Court, 212.
Ashley Park, 213.
Ashmole, Elias, his tomb, 89.
Ashted Park, 174.
Astle, Thomas, account of him, 97.
Audiejr, Lord, bis monument, 229.
Bagshot, 280.
- Park, ib.
Baltimore, Lord, anecdotes of him,
170.
Banks, lliomas, a native of Liunbeth.
91.
Bantted Downs, 175,
' 9
) Barber, Alderman, account of hiro,
107,
' Barkley, Alexander, 126.
' Barnard, Sir John, 107,
, Barnes, Mr. his researches on Walton
heath, 180.
Basingstoke Canal, 25.
Bate, Dr. George, account of hin^
189, note.
Battersea church, 96; Bolingbroke*
house, 97 ; Sherwood-lodge, bridge,
98.
Battle, Dr. William, account of hio^
189 note.
Beddington, ancient remains foun4
there^ 130 ; the church, 132*
Park, ISO.
Beech worth. East, 150.
West, 159.
Benbow, Admiral, a natire of Re*
therhithe, 76.
Benn, Sir Anthony, 198.
Bermondsej, its situation, 70 ; prio-
ry, church, 71 ; free- school, cha-
rity-school, Bermondsey spa, 73.
Bird, Edward, Esq. his monnment
and account of him, 148.
Blackheatb, hundred of, 221.
Blechingley, representation, 136 : A^
manor, the castl^, the church, 137 ;
free-school, alms-houses, 140*
Place, 140.
Bladder, Sir Thomas, 148.
Bolingbroke* Viscount, his moan*
ment, 96 ; a natiye of Battersea,
99.
Bookham
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INDEX.
Bookham, Great, ^15.
■ Grove, ib.
Botleys, 288.
Bonriceois, Sir Francis, hitbeqnettto
Diilwich College, iOt.
Box hill, 159, 179, 180.
Bray, William, Esq. ««8.
Brereton, Sir William, 04,
BrookUnds, rilh
Brixton, hundred, 49.
Bronncker, Viscount, 90f.
Bulkeley, Sir Richard, his inonament
and account oChim, 168.
Borhill, SIS
Burrough, Great, in Baokted, 175.
■ Little, ib.
Burrow, Sir James, 149, 143*
Boratow, 150,
Bur wood Park, f 12.
Bury Hill, 16a.
Buabridge Park, 937,
B^8she,-Sir Edward, aecooDt of him,
150.
■ Court, 141.
c.
Camberwell, 98.
Carew, Sir Francis, his fruit trees,
ISO; bis luonuncnt, 133.
CarsbaJton church, 134.
■ — park, ib.
Cartwriuht, William, his beqaests to
Dulwich Coliegei lOif.
Chalk- pits, 19.
Chert park, 160.
Chertsey, hundred of, 284.
——town of, its abbey, 985;
church, charitj-school, bridge, 986.
Cholmondclcy, Miss, her accidental
death, 174.
Claudon House, 974.
Clapbam, common, church, 103.
Claremont, 907.
Clayton, Sir Robert, his monument
and inscriptioD, 1S8 ', account of
him, 139, note.
Cleave, William, Esq. alms-hoqse
founded by him, 186; his monu-
ment, 189.
Cleveland, Duchess of, account of
her, l7B, note.
Cobhani, HOG.
^— — park, ib,
pri<iry, ii09.
Coilins,Aithur,buried at BatUrsea,97.
Coke, Sir Robert, 171.
Cooke, Thomas, account of him, 84.
Coombe House, near Croydon, 198,
Cooper's Hill, 990.
Copthorn and Effingham, hundred otg
167.
Corbet, Bishop, account of him, 169.
Cornish, Admiral* 940,
Coway Stakes, 910.
Cranley, 994.
Thomas de, account of him.
996.
Cromwell, Earl of Essex, a native of
Putney, 1 19.
Croydon canal, 95.
' hundred of, 199.
— — — its history, the palace, 193 ;
the church, 196 ; Wbitgift's hospi-
tal, 196; alms-bonses, the town-
hall, navigable canal, iron nil-
road, 197.
CoddinfTton, 176.
Curtis, William, 97.
Dee, Dr. John, 107.
De la Kotte, Countessy anecdote of
her, 84.
Denbigh's^ 161.
Denham, Sir John, remarks on his.
Cooper's Hill, 990.
Dipden, 160.
Doune, Dr. account of him, 991. note.
Dorchester, Countess of, anecdotes of
btr, 919, note.
Dorking, hundred of, 155.
— lowncss of its situation, mai^
kets, ib.; breed of fowls, historj^
uf the manor, 156; the church,
the Stane-street, 157 ; Sonde-plaoe,
Sondes Court Lodge, Shruh Hill
159.
Ducarel, Dr. 96.
Dudley, Sir Robert, account of him,
205.
Dulwicb, 99; College, 100.
Dardaos, near Epsom, l7l.
Dyson, Riglit Hon. Jeremiah, aecout
of him, 978, note.
E.
Eashing, 987.
Eastwick House, 175.
Egharo, situation, 988 ; charch, almi^
houses, 989.
Elizabeth, QxLteo, anecdote of her, .
81, «0t0.
SnUt
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INDEX.
Wnhtv Courts f06.
Soiily, Rer. Edwnd, his oioDument,
883. V
dnley Bridge, hondred of, S06.
Epftom, hntory of its watert, 169 ; the
church, 171 ; alms-houte and cba-
rity-ichool^ 172.
£sher, S07.
— park, f08.
Svelyii, John, Esq. accoont of hini>
164.
SwelJ, formerly a market-town, 167 ;
the church, 163; eminent native,
169.
Cwood, new mansion erecting near
it bjr the Dnke of Norfolk, 154*
Vane, Hon. Anthony, 189,
Famham, hundred of, 941.
■ town of, situation, f 41 ; hoj>-
groands, 249 ; manor, castle, ^44 ;
church, S45 ; roarket-hoose, t46.
' Nicholas de, account of him,
946.
Felibridge House, 140.
Kres, at Rotherhithe, 75 ; at Astley's
Amphitheatre, 88; at Petersham
Lodge, 193.
Flower House, Godstone, 140.
Forman, Siraon, anecdotes of him,
85, note.
Frenahara, remarkable cauldron pre-
served there, 251.
Fuller's eartb, pits of it, 11.
G.
Gardner, Rev. Joseph, 97.
Garrett, mock election there, 118.
GattoD, remains of antiquity disco-
Tcred there, 151; representatiofi,
manor, 152.
■ Lower, ib.
— Upper, ib.
Gaynesford, Nicholas his monument
and account of him, 134, 135.
Gibson, Edward, account of him. 112.
Glyn, Sir Richard, account of him,
16&
Godalming. hundred of, 230.
— — — town of, situation, ety-
mology, 231; manor, manufac-
tures, 232 ; navigation, bridge,
markets, church, S33 ; alms house,
i$i i remarkable imposture^ S36;
Godbold, Nathaniel, 155.
Godschall, Sir Robert, his monamant.
224.
Godstone, 140 1 its stone qnairiet
and mineral waters, 141.
Gore, Lieutenant-general, 174.
Gower, John, the poet, his momimciil-.
53..
Greenbill, ThomaS| inseription oq
him, 153.
Green Place, 230.
Grindall, Arohblshop, his nBonameii^
Grove Hill, the residence of Dr. Let^
som, 98.
Guildford, situation, 257; ancient
history, 252; remarkable tenures,
254 ; the castle, 2d5 ; Friary, 258;
Trinity church, 259 j St. Mary's,
St. Nicholas's, 262 ; Abbot's Hos*
pital, 263; free grammar-school,
263 ; town-hall, 266 ; theatre, gaoC
spital, 267; charity-school, chapels,
bridge, bath, recent improvement^
race-course, 268 ; eminent natives
269—271.
Guy, Thomas, account of him, 40,
note.
H.
Haling House, near Croydon, 128.
Hamilton, Elizabeth, remarkable ut
scription on her tomb, 115.
Ham House, Petersham, 191.
; Weybridge. 219.
Hanstie Bury, an ancient encamp*
ment, 162.
Hartley, David, his invention for pre-
serving bnildmgs from fire, 112.
Hascomb, 226.
Hasiemere, situation, markets, 238 ;
representation, chapel, alms-honse.
289.
Hatchland Park, 275.
Heron, Nicholas, Esq. his moniiDien^
136.
Hersham, 212.
High House, 228.
Holboume, Admiral, 203.
Holmbury, an ancient encampment,
166.
Hopgon, Admiral Sir Thomas, 220.
Horsley, Bisliop, epitaph on himself
and his wife, 68^ account of hin^
^9, note.
Horsley^
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INBEX.
Horslej^ East^ ft7/>.
West, ib.
ttortonPark, 171.
Hoagb Bridge Placc^ $01-
Hourne, 141.
Hull, Richard, £sq. accooat of Wim,
t65, 166.
J •
James II. anecdote of bis qaecn.
Jetsop's Well, 210.
JgUifib^ William, Esq. 154. note.
K.
Kennington, ancient palace there* 99.
Kew, new palace erecting there by
his Mi^esty, pleasare-i^rounds, 190;
the botanic garden, 191.
Keyse, Thomas, his exhibitions, 73.
Kingston, hundred of, 181.
Kingston, town of, its situation, an-
tiquities discovered there, ib. ; re-
snarkable events, 18t ; corporation,
representation, markets, 184; the
town-hall, the bridge, Norbeton-
hall, 185 ; Norbeton Place, alms-
hoase, ancient chapel, 186; the
free grammar-school, the church,
187 ; the conduit, 190.
Kingswood Lodge, 290.
Knight's Hill, the residence of Lord
Thurlow, 103.
Ladbroke, Richard, Esq. 148.
Lambert, General, anecdote of him,
119.
Lambeth, its sitoa-ion* 76 ; palace,
77; church, 8^; burial-ground,
84: monastery founded there, 86;
meeting-houses, I«ambeth Wells,
Cuper's Gardens, 87; Ajitley's Am-
phitheatre, Patent Shot manufac-
tory, Beaufoy's Vinegar-works, 88;
Goade and Sealy*s artificial stone
manufactory. Strand- bridge, the
Asylum, 89; Westminster-Lying-
in Hospital, Refuge for the Desti-
tute, 90; afms-hooses, schools,
Vauzhall, 91 , Vanaliall-gBTdens,
9«; the Regenes-Bridge, Ken-
nington, palace there, 9S; Stock-
weii Ghost, 94; South Lambeth,
Physic-gardea of the l^adescants,
95.
Langston, lienteaantgeneral, 174*
Lauderdale, Duchess of, account oC
her, 191, note.
Leake, Admiral Sir John, a native at
Kotherhithe, 76.
Lee Boo, Prince, inscription on his
tomb, 74,
Leith Hill, extensive riew firom il^
tower erected there, 165.
Leatherhcad, situation, remarkable
buildings, 179; the church, 173,
the bridge, 174.
Lewen, Sir William, his monument,
168.
Lewis, Robert, Esq. his epitaph^ 203»
Lilly, William, his tomb, f 15.
Lingfield college, 141 ; church, 14f»
Lister, Dr. Martin^ account of him,
103.
Loddon, river, 10.
Loseley House, 872.
Ludlam's Hole, t46.
Lyne Grove, ^87.
Lynne, Rebecca, her nmtAMt
epitaph, 115.
M
Biallet Do Pan, Jacques, 903.
Manning, Rev. Mr. his epitapb^fSI;
account of him, 335, note.
Marden Park, 140.
Medway, river, 10.
Merstbam, stone dug there, 11 ; e«*
rious font in the church, 163; it»
apple orchards, 154.
Place, 153.
Merton, priory, historical eventi^
104 ; church, 105-
, Walter de, account of hisb
106.
Place, 106.
Micklelicm, 179.
Mineral Waters, 10.
Minerals, ib.
Mitcham Grove, 155.
Mole, river, it* course, 7; peculiarity
for which it is reruarkablej 8.
Monk's Grove, si87.
Moor Park, 246.
Moore, Edward, account of him, 84*
Mordun Hall, 107.
Park, 106.
Moore, Dr. John, S03.
Morland, Sir Samuel, his mechanical
contrivances, 91. note.
Moctlak*
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INDEX.
If ortlake charcb, I97 ; tapf itiy ma-
nufactory, 108.
MalgraTCi Lord, his monumenV 126.
N.
Netley Honse, 238.
Newark Priory, %76.
Newdigate, 154.
Kewiogton Butts, its situation, 67,
chardh» 68 ; the House of God,
Chanty School, Drapers' Alms-
houses, 70.
Newland, Abraham, Esq. hb monu-
ment, 'iS.
Nonsuch Palace, l76.
Norbnry Park, 179.
Nork, the seat of Lord ArderS 175.
Norwood, 128.
Nottingham, Ear} of, lord high ad-
miraJ, inscription on his colfin, 148.
NoviomaguS} placed by some antiqua-
ries at Croydon, 1 21,
Nuffield, its fuller's earth, Roman
coins found there, 154; the church,
155.
O.
Oaks, the, a seat of the Earl of Dei^
by, 135.
Oai lands, «I7.
Ockhani Park, 275.
' William, account of him, ib.
Ockley, defeat of the Danes at that
place-pleasing custom) 165.
Onslow, Rt. Hon. Arthur, his monu-
ment, 261.
Ottershaw, 288.
Ougbtred, William, SS4.
Pains Hill, 313.
Parkhurst, Bishop, 870.
■ Charles, his whimsical epi-
taph, 171.
• Rev. John, bis monument.
171.
• Sir Robert, his monument.
S60.
Peperharrow, 2S9.
Peme,Dr. Andrew, anecdote of him,
85 note.
Petersham, 191.
Lodge, 193,
Pirford, «91.
Vol. XIV.
Polesdoo, 176.
Price, Dir. James, account of hit ei-
periments, 279 note.
Pnrley, 135.
Putney,remarkab]e transactions there,
church, 110; the bridge. 111 ; th*
Fire- house, the Bowling-greea
house, eminent natiTea^ 118»
Pttttenham Priory, 240.
B.
Rail-road from Wandsworth to Mersl*
tham, 24.
Ralegh, Sir Walter, original letter bj
his lady, 131.
Randalls, near Letherhead, 174.
Reigate, hundred of, 144.
— • , situation, markets, popula*
tion, representation, 145 ; the cat-
tle, 146 ; the Priory, the church,
147 ; the market house, remains of
ancient chapels, the park, 149.
Richmond, history of its palace, 194;
present remains of it, the old park,
198 ; the Lodge, the Observatory,
199; the king's farm, the new park,
200 ; the Lodges, Carthusian con-
vent, 20^ ; convent of Observants,
the church, 202 ; the theatre, 203 ;
the bridge, 204 ; eminent native,
205.
Hill, mansions upon it, .
204.
Ripley, George, 276.
Roehampton, 113.
Grove, ib.
Hou»e, ib.
Rookerjp, the, near Dorking, 162.
Rooksnest, in the parish of Tandridge,
144.
Rotherhtthe, 73 ; the church, schools,
74; Commercial Docks, 75 ; Surrey
Canal, Thames Archwav Company,
76 ; celebrated natives, ib.
Rumming, Eleanor, her house at Le«
tlierhead, 173.
Runniroeadi 289.
Russel, an extraordinary cTmracter,
115.
. John, account of him, 271.
S.
St, Ann's Hill, 286, 287.
St Katharine's chapel, 271.
St. Martha's on the Hill, 226.
X Sand«n(a4
Digitized by
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IN&ttt.
Sifldectted Coart, 135.
Saiwyni John, memorUlof hira, 216;
Send, 976,
Send Grove, ib.
Shalfbrd House* fVr,
Shamioti, Titcoiuit, Ids monumeiit,
flJK
Sheen, £&sf. 1081
Sbeldoo, ArchbUbop; fSM monuroetit.
Shire, its sitaation,'ChDrch. t^9.
Shirle^i House, near Gray doiif lf8«
Skeme, Robert, his monument, 189.
Skrine» Henrj« Esq, his moBiment,
fl5.
Smith, Henry* Esq. his moBament
and inscription* 1J6; accoiant of
btVj 117.
Sbnthwark, history* 43 j representa-
tion, and division^ 44; St Olave's,
ib. ; the Bridce-hoase, 45 ; Sl
Tohu'B and Sl Thomas's, 46 ; St
Thomas's Hospital. 47; Guy's Hos»
pita], 49 ; St. Saviour's, 51 ; Win-
chester House, 54 ; the Siewsi 55 ;
the Clink, the Globe theatre, 56 ;
the Bear Garden, Soutfiwark
Bridge, 57 ; Borough market, St.
Margaret's Hill, the Tabard Lin,
58; the Marahalsea, St. Geocge
the Martyr, 59.; Soflblk. Place,
Union Uall, Coon^ Gnol and
House of Csrrectionj 60; Kii>g's
Bench prison, Christ chntch, 61 ;
Albion Mills, Plate Glass Ma-
Aufactonr* Surrey Institution, 6t^;
Surrey Cbapd, Magdalen Uospi-
tal»63; Sarrey Theatre, Obeiiskk
64; Laiaoastcr'sscbool, StGeurge's
Fields, School of the Indigent
^Iwd, 65 ; Philambropic Society^
66 ^ th^Dogaad Dock, 67.
SterboioBgh Casile^ 142.
Stpckwell, ealxaordtuary impositton
practised there, 94.
$toke near Guildford* f77«
Stoke, D'AbenMiii» f09.
flBiig^oo* 977.
■ ■ — Sir Laurence* his epitapfi,
Slieatbam chnrch* 114; mineral wa>
ter, 115.
■ ■■ PaA. 114.
Sarrey* genend aspect of the comty*
^ivisiov and popalaiaoop 1; oli-
anc^ &;• *flteiy, 7 ; minerallr and*
fossils, 10; state <yf property. tS^
buWdiitgi, ib. ; pOor-reres an(r stat«
of the poor, 14 ;« agriculture, 15 $
roads, 23; canafii^ 16; manufac-
tures, 86 ; forest, ib. ; Roman sta-
tions, encampments, nM^H &A. ^t
general history, 30; Mmiorikl*]li^
tory, 51 ; ecclesiastieal biMMy i«#
geTentMBni*, 44^ efMI'gowcMMMi
i^p^eeentMioH, 9Ht, 41^
Surrey Catwil9Sk
SnUon Place, itSS.
T.
Tandridge* hondredof, 138.
' villhge, itt priory, 144*.
Taremer, Richard, Esq. account of
{ him, 185 note.
Temple GroTe* a (^vourite residenoa
I of Sir William Temple, 1U8.
Thames Ditton, f06,
Thirleby, Bishop, account of him, 88
note.
Thomas, Bishop, 139.
Thomson, James, the poet, his moon^
ment and house. 903.
Thenicroft, near Letberhead* 174*
Thanderfield Castle, 141.
Thnrland, Sir Iklward, 148
Toft, Mary, her imposture* f36.
Tolaud, John* llO.
Tradescants, tlieir monument, 83 i
their physic-garden and museum,
95.
Tunstall, Bbhop* account of him, 83
note.
V.
Vauxhall, 91 ; Gardens, 9«.
Villiersy Lord Francis* his gallantly^
184.
w.
Waghom, Capt. his moooment* 69.
Wakefield, Rot* GHbtrt* S03.
Wallington, remains of antiquity dis-
covered there, 138.
Walton on the Hill, Roman remaias
discovered there, 180 ; the dsaicby
181.
flO;tfaebrid0ew
314 i ihecbwdi*3l5«
Waadlt
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Google
INDEX.
Wandle, tWtr, its coarse^ 9.
Waodiwortfaf Hi manofmchiref* 116 ;
church, 117; biiilge^ East and
West HUl, 118.
WatsoDf Sir Brook, 107.
Wa^erley Abbey, t48.
West, Bishop, a native of Patney, 1 1 1.
Weston Hoase, tSS, 8t4.
Westun, Sir Richard, account of him,
38S note.
Wey, river, its course, 7 ; made na-
Tisable from Weybridge to Godal-
mmg, t5, 93S.
We^bndge, f 16 ; the church, SSO.
Whitgift, Archbishop, his monuoient»
lt5; hospital founided by him, tt6»
Wimbledon, its history, 118 *, church,
lfiO«
Common, HI; encamp-
ment there, ib.
■ ■ House, 119.
Lodge, If I.
• Viscount, his monument.
IfO.
Wishart,Sir James, his monument,174.
Wobum Farm, 888.
Woking, hundred of, 251.
Woking, town of, 210.
Wonersh, 230.
Wonham, 150.
Wood, Robert, Esq. account of hiii«
111.
Woodbridge House, 277.
Woodcote, supposed by some writen
to be the Nonomagua of the Ro-
mans, 1S4.
Park, 170.
Woodmansteme, its elevated iitu»*
tioo and salubrity, 135.
Wotton, 163.
House, ib.
Wynne, Sir Richard, account of hinu
120.
Wynter, Sir Edward« hit monumenf^
96.
Yates, Mrs. the actress, 205.
Z.
Zouch, Sir Edward, $81 ; his monu-
ment, 283.
X2
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SUSSEX.
SITUATION AND EXT£NT.
Sussex, whose coast has of late years become in a peculiar
manner the resort of rank, fashion, and opulence, and whose
hills and downs present the same variety of pleasing and pic-
tnres^e situations as those of its neighbour, Surrey ; is bounded
on the north by that county, on the west by Hampshire, on the
south by the British Channel, and on the east and north-east by
Kent. According to Templeman's tables it is sixty-five miles
in length, and twenty-six in breadth, and comprehends 1416
square miles, or 1,140,000 acres; but in this calculation the
length is considerably under-rated, and the breadth as much aug-
mented. Another computation reduces the number of acres to
908,952 ; but this is likewise erroneous. The real length of the
county from Emsworth to Kent Ditch measures seventy-six
miles ; the medium breadth falls short of twenty ; 'and the super-
ficial contents amount to 933,360 acres.
Division and Population.— The general division of Sussex
is into rapes, a division peculiar to this county. These rapes^
each of which is said to have had its particular castle, river,
and forest, are Chichester, Arundel, and firamber, forming the
western ; and Lewes, Pevensey, and Hastings, the eastern por-
tion. The rapes are subdivided into sixty-five hundreds, and
comprehend 313 parishes.
The population of the county, according to the returns made
U Parliament in 1801, was as follows:
X3
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SUSSEX. 7
Climate.— -The climate of this ooantj' in the western jpart of
the maritime district is warm and highly favonrahle to vegeta-
tion ; but it is extremely bleak on sach parts of the South Dowp
hills as are exposed to the south west. Here the windt^ are fre-
quently so boisterous as to strip the coverings from all tbslqlied
buildings and corn-stacks, and to blow the standinig cora out of
the ear when ready for harvest. ''These wind^'' says the Rev.
Mr. Young, '* when impregnated with saline pavticlesj occasionfiii
Jby the heatii^ of the spray against the heach^ destroy all the
hedges and trees within the sphere of their influence. On the
side exposed to their fury the hedges seem to be cut as if it wens
artificially ; and in very .open situations^ though at a considerable
distance from the coast, the spray penetrates the houses even if
built with brick. Hence arises the necessity of placing all build-
ings in this district in low and sheltered positions, to prevent the
mischief which would otherwise be occasioned by these winds.''*
Soil AcND Surface.— The difierent soils of chalk, clay, sand,
loam, and gravel, are to be found in Sussex. The first is the
general soil of the South Down Hills; the second of the wood-
land district termed the Weald ; the third principally occupies the
north part of the county ; the fourth b found on the north 6i«le of
the hills; and the last lies between the rich loam of the coast and
the chalk.
The soil of the South Downs varies according to its situation.
On the summit is usually found, especially in the eastern partsi, a
very fleet earthy with a substratum of chalk, and over thata sur-
&ce of chalk rubble, covered with a light stratum of vegetable
calcareous mould. Sometimes on the summit of tlie downs there
X4 is
* Vonng's AgTic. of Sussex, p. 3. In a note on this pass^^ tbe Rev.
Mr. Siieyd vcntnrcs to cbH in quesiion the accuracy of this generally re«
ceived opinion respecting the malignant operation of the salme efflavia.
^is notion, dedoced from rensoning which appears perfectly just, is, that
all the injury ascrihed to those effluvia oogbt to be attriboted to the force of
4be wind alons, which obttrncts by its agitation the couao of tiM jnic^ that
sltonld nourish the leaves.
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8 SUSSEX.
is only a light covering of flinty upon which the grass sponts-
neonsly grows. Proceeding down the hills^ the soil becomes of
a deeper staple, and at the bottom the surface is every where of
sufficient depth for ploughing.
Westward of the river Arun, the soil above the chalk is very
gravelly, intermixed with large flints. Between the rivers Adur
and Ouse is found a substratum of reddish sand, covered by a
flinty surface. The depth of the soil above the chalk varies in al-
most every acre of land, from one to twelve inches ; the general
average between Eastbourne and Shoreham does not exceed five
inches ; but westward of the latter place the staple is deeper ;
and between Arundel and Hampshire its. depth continues to in-
crease.
At the northern extremity of the chalk bills, and usually ex-
tending the same length as the Downs, is a slip of very rich
arable land, the breadth of which is inconsiderable. The soil of
this narrow slip is a stiff calcareous loam on a clay bottom, so
difficult to plough, that it is no unusual thing to see ten or twelve
stout oxen, and sometimes more, at work upon it.
Southward of the hills is an extensive arable vale of singular
fertility. This maritime district, extending 36 miles from firight-
helmstone to Emsworth, is at first of very trifling breadth ; as
far as Shoreham it falls short of a mile ; between the Adur and
Arun it is increased to three ; and from the Arun to the borders
of Hampshire it becomes still wider, from three to seven miles.
Between this vale and the South Downs runs a stripe of land,
not equal to that just mentioned in richness, but excellent for
the turnip husbandry. It is provincially termed shravey, that is,
stony or gravelly, the flints sometimes lying so thick as to cover
the ground ; and yet it is curious to observe how vegetation flou-
rishes through such beds of stones. It is the general opinion,
founded on experience, that were the farmers to go to the expense
and trouble of picking these stones off the land, the soil would bs
inal^ially injured.
The soil of the Weald is mostly a very stiff loam on a hrnk clay
t bottom.
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SUSSEX. 9
bottom, asd that again upon sand-stones; bnt upon the bilk rnn-
ning through the county in a north-vest direction, it is somewhat
diflerent. Here it is either a sandy loam on a sandy grit-stone,
or a poor black vegetable sand on a soft clay marl. A great pro-
portion of these hills is nothing but the poorest barren sand.
Such is St. Leonard's Forest, containing 10,000 acres, and Ash-
down Forest 18,000 more. An extensive tract of this unimproved
sandy soil, stretching into Kent on one side, and with the inter*
Tention of some cultivated spots, into Hampshire on the other,
chiefly occupies the northern division of the county.
So predominant is timber or wood of some kind in the Weald,
that when viewed from^he South Downs, or any elevation, it
appears one mass of trees. Anterior to the Norman conquest,
this tract was a continued forest, extending across the whole
county from the borders of Kent to the confines of Hampshire.
When it was first improved by clearing, it was a common prac-
tice to leave a shaw, several yards in width, round each inclo-
sare,- as a nursery for timber ; and the size of these inclosures
being small, the general aspect of the country must of course be
woody. In truth, the forest yet remaining occupies a consider-
able portion of. Sussex.
Besides the soils already mentioned, there is a large tract of
marah-Iand adjacent to the sea-coast between the eastern extre-
mity of the Sonth Downs and Kent. The soil is a composition
of rotten vegetables, intermixed with sand and other matters de-
posited by floods upon the earth. From these marshes timber
and trees, each containing one load cubic measure, have at dif-
ferent times been dug up.
Minerals.— In regard to minerals, Sussex is not inferior to
most of the counties of England. In the easternmost parts of the
Weald is found every sort of limestone. The Sussex marble,
when cnt into slabs for ornamental chimney-pieces, and highly
polished^ is equal to most kinds for beauty and quality. It is an
excellent stons for square building ; and for paving is not ex-
ceeded
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|0 WMfiX.
ceeML Jlaflbrdi^^ very nUii«Ue mmtt, 4(bii]^ jikA bj mtm
Ahougbt fcyperior ^ chidk^ ai>d 44ue^per io duwe iAoliy«,amrlihie
place wbece it i» dog. jU is i»imd in tke jhif hwt fecfectkMi4Mi «p
ertate of .the Earl of SgramQat'a at Kirdto4» &»^ tm 4o iireiilgr
feet under ground, wheoe it Ilea in strata nine or lea inchealUd^
Mncb of it vas iiafid in Cantecboiy raMirfaal; the pillars, «»-
jMimAiitai. vaults, and naiemenL of thai venessUeitaictiine beimr
of Ahis aiatedal, "whiob ia there denoqunated Betwortb jnadU^v
and the archbiahap'a chair is formed of Mie entire fiiepe.
The Snaaex lime-staae has been Axaad aifienor to bpth ttal
•f Haidatone «nd PJfmoptii ; and br xemant it ia jthaitgfat to
aarpaaa any in the kingdom. Iron-stone ^diofinda in this iXMinjEy ^
and to the femginims motnae with vbi^i its apilis inoaqr
places «e highly impnegoated, is ia be aaeribed theateiilitf of ap
laqye a pmiioa of its aiirbce. Chalk ia atiX jnere plentifat ^
tast lange 4tf hiUa vhich noci^ ncQosidemfaie part of the coofligr
nsntfenona to the eaaat beiiigoomposed of tbatinatepaL Onthe
aotttb4u4e of tiieaebiUs mad is 4^g in ^'iriooaj^^ FnlleiiS
fia4h ia foond at TiUiogtoa» And consnmed m ttie nejgbbonriiy
mills; and red oqhre at firaffbam, Chidhwn^ and other phom
on the ooast^ whence mncb of it is sent to the metaopoiift.
fijT.£na.-*-Tbe xiyecs of Saaaex are inajgniicawt oAroama wtm
compared irith those of aome other pcoTjmoes iif the kingdom^
but thej are ezohaiTelgr ita oim, aa their originmiid oanawa aae
confined vithia the Itmito of 4be>eoimty. 411 ofAhemfcU into the
British Channel.
The Lavant, one of the amallest of theaexwers, tiaea near Cast
Dean* and endrdea Chtcheater on all aidea hot the nortk It ia
naT^gaUe only to a amaU distance from its month. In this niver
near the sea are hred lobsters lof rf mariraWf exoaUance.
The Arun has ila source in 61. Leonard'a Fonest, mi, nAsr
running a few milea votward, tnma due aoott^ paasea if Aam-
del in ita serpentine oonrse, and diachaigeailaalf ipla thoaaaM
LitaeHampton. This riw ia celeh^ far ita mnlh>t» ubidg
in
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MJjiiMPMfr MWQi^|urac#pdii^«iHdi»laiSe4hoab m fit at
jioaddiiiqaestirfAiAitundarkuid of ««ed» viiidiixeDdetf Di«iii
1^ AAff^ fmnetimm called IIm fluedwg^ alap liaaa in St
Lw>pa»fa Anaat^ vJkfiice 4wai«f ito4mi»e aonihvaEd it paww
fllCTMMT jupd ffrainhr^ 4iol>y mi rfgifhipg fihifffhtm, fcBny aiid^
Hkwi]/ t0 ihe e$ts^ and, After f«miv ^ owrov foiiiMnila jdbral
ef BrigbthelmBtone.
Tke Oi»e imUfett ila «ri^ frw tvo hranAe^ iwe ttf «ifcich
m^bolprwtafViwi];^ aad AecAeriaUiiA^f St Lmii«d
theiMiarve fif HieAimr. TheiefiU«ai9«fma«jii«cUoaiioi
Ar Swm CmkMi} and th^ir mutad civMit fwaUig BQiObwacd
4» Iiwes, disabaii^ea itsidf iiit^ theMa^it K#w1imoii. Tbia jjiyjr
WW Anvriy jiav%446 only ai te as lawaa S» jiuU tergM^yt
fHVlieiilMrlmsefUieAida; tetlHnri9^|iie^B<w4^^ daapaafl^
jAd'aAhefwwewpnwM* U jw aoy papniwitly oair^aMa fa* twiti
tfiflarfvr jMi^doiias U^ A»fiY# nritoa mitwird^gf C?adtf eld,
lUhdMNiFMeat Itii«iw«»aiMtfr4> dmdea ipto tvi»<«tc«aiiia4»
Jte hordeni4)f Xent^ awl agHiJi noitiiig, froKS'lhe kliMid af Oi^
aey ; aftar mhUti it ex{Huidt inlo an esMwry ooar Ri^e, iidaar
wUib f luce H /alia intaAhe BfiftMi Chaimel
W0OM,-^^Sfm»ew Jaoae cC thope Dowitiea «UA» frpv 4he«^'
airfcat aaUqmty, haa been calahnHted JbritslMnkar^ pviMiiMd^
oak. Before the Norman Conquemt ii mm^me wntinvHUafefH
aAd tba fiooti^ of weedlood wfcieb it »t pfieaevt eoirtaiiw ioaanot
b^ eirtimtod nt Iqhi Ikon 170, or imjOOO aoB^. Tbe Joei^M^g
lenliire of the Weald is its timber, which oyerspreads It iii e^ery
direction; and so natarally is it adapted to the soil, that if a
field were sown with fip-ze only, the groand, in the coarse of a
few years, wonld be covered with young oaks, without any troable
or expense of planting. The quality of this timber may be col-
bobed tmwi this drcamalAnce^ that the navyrcontractors utipulate
fNrJBiisaeK oak m pMCsMMe^e every ethartkiiid.
The
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13 svtsnL
Wastes.— The tracts of laod which come under the desoriptioii
of mere wastes in Sussex are very considerable. They chi^y
occupy the northern side of the county^ where, in a district con*
taining by computation 600,000 acres, these almost desert tracts
form not less than 110,000. It is not a little exUraordinary, that
anch immense tracts of land should be left in an unprofitable state,
when they are every where intersected by turnpike-roads, and
are only between thirty-five and forty-five miles distant from sq^
a market as London.
Roads and Canals.— The turnpike-roads in Sussex are
in general well-executed. Their goodness is chiefly owing
to the excellence of the materials, whin-stone, and the Kent-
ish rag, of which they are composed. Where these are not
found the roads are worse; and in some of the eastern
parts of the county they are narrow and sandy. The roads
from the principal towns to the metropolis, and the great
cross-road near the coast which connects them together, are ex-
cellent. The other cross-roads on the coast are kept firm and
dry by the gravel, or sea-beach ; but in the Weald, says the
Rev. Mr. Young, they are in all probability the very worst that
are to be met with in any part of the island. This is to be as-
cribed partly to the nature of the soil, which is a heavy clay, with-
out bottom ; partly to the transport of vast loads of timber, com,
and other produce; and partly to the predilection of land- holders
for their shaws and woods, which efli?ctually prevent a free cir-
culation of the wind and air*.
Though Sussex has scarcely the shadow of any thing that de-
serves the name of a manufacture, yet the advantages which it
has
* The author of the View of the Agriculture of Sassez« in treating of its
roads, states a siugular fact. " There is/' mya he, " such an instance of the
benefit of a turupike-road at Horsham as is very rarely tu be met with. The
present road to London was made in 1756 ; before that time it was so ex-
ecrably bad, that whoever went on wheels was forced to go round by Cutler-
bury* which is one of the most extraordinary cbcanftances, that the bistoiy of
■oa-communication in this kingdom can famish." (p. 419.}
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svMn. 13
kas jeeeiTed, Mid is likely to derive from the promotion of inland
nftTigation,are very considerable. In this respect art is not here
required to form a new creation^ but merely to assist nature by im-
pyoYing the channels of the different rivers that traverse the
county from north to south.
The Arun is navigable from the sea to its junction with the
New Cut seventeen miles three frirlongs; and from that point a
company of merchants have extended the navigation as fiur as
Newbridge. The first cut formed to avoid a circuit of five miles
and a half, which the river makes by Greatham and Polborough,
is a mile and three quarters in lengthy including,a tunnel of about
a quarter of a mile^ thirteen feet and a half wide, and as much
in height, which cost 60001. From the end of the cut to Pa-
lit^glitin Quay, three miles, the river is navigable; but thence to
Newbridge another cut has been made, at the expense of 15,0001.
To extend the benefit of water-carriage to other parts of the
county, the Earl of Egremont, a nobleman more illustrious for his
public spirit and zeal in promoting objects of public utility than
for his rank and opulence, obtained an Act of Parliament at his
sole expense to make the Rother, a branch of the Arun, navigable
from its junction with that river to Midhurst, and by a collateral
branch to Petworth, so that those two places now have an unin-
termpted communication with the sea. In the line from Midhurst
to the Aran, this navigation has eight locks, with a fall of 52 feet,
and 86 in the cut from Petworth.
This undertaking, however, forms only part of a grand phin
tot connecting London with Sussex, by means of the junction of
the Arun with the Wey at Guildford. It has been ascertained
that this may be effected by a cut in almost a straight line of
seventeen miles, through a country the soil of which is prin-
cipally clay, presentbg no difficulties, and with a plentiful sup-
ply of water in the driest seasons ; and it is calculated that the
work may be completed in two years. According to the esti-
mate of Mr. Jeaaojf, the sum required for accomplishing it is
71,000L ; but the projectors, wishing to meet every expense, de-
termined.
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u
A flM fce» iho lW€f!i pi'UfWt J fdr^Wng MWlkier «uiA Hmm
Newbridge od the Rother to Honbai^, mA Ikitam i» fli# iMi
# ArtrM, Ule^ ilMf ^ euislciif itfoilC ficMttMffPjr ^vUfy* Tfel
biMhMrf lA tittir •>»« limpiliMr, tM fMOtf ^ tHei* tt^ ik^
HagtMteA ibr flie «teaEdjp (lalrtma^e «fid eMdMangemeiil irM^
liM»f tainre givcM tv «grkallMat )fti|mf Me«to. 7hnt liiAJlliui
«f tiM E«rl of £gfeDMMi« imd Lord StMiBett nte fm veB
lUk^mr to »ee4 aoy fettttk; And tbtf IhJke df KefaaMi imI
th^ e*f <tf Cbrtlletfter liaM aUtf^ AtffittjttUed OenMeffes ii
E»tti» here, fts^ ebewbeve, «re Mf^ exlettait«, afttf f&oir «N
siiKe»eni in gei(ey»l is Mg&fy MpeHor «ii A^r MiH^ ifr wiMli
iMitfMy ihtf Ob* oif iv«t oMft. Otf a eevq^«rlsetf of file Wedl
nMtboSootlk I>o^iw, Ale efreMMteMeittili b^Mtfeieaffy tttaii^
tew la tbe l^fmec, tt<wgi> fart>tf <ftjme«iate» eieeeit 20gL t yetr;
3«^th«y tfe not efle» eiet friAr ef iM tt^jfuIMb^; by Atf lie
iJmilef nvmbeir ibH se ehait el tUe slhmhfd, lb«l ftif ^eiil
«eeM)|^e la dkat dktrkf is tadbr KM. Oit the fte«ii^ D^Mrai
they rise much higher, nuiDy (ameft octnpyktgMie gtetik^ p«1^
Maet Ito wkoli; cH Iheif iM|mfive ptfiebe*;: se^fbKC fliey eiay
IttM average abemt 9901. per aoMMA. lalbetriaagfrftfrttedby
MMeiMunr, Lewes, and £a8tl#qni, Ibey csceed tbal eniMtti M
Ml below it as U» west eidi^ of tieDbwtar. la tte HariCim A^
irtet tbey tery thmlOk. to IdOI. ; and apMribe krgegiavvfly sefl
ritaftteJbiilireeAfbe MteraniAeSeatfr llvnw, tbey otty la
Mbettapaii aft a'veni^e at 900h
ileeil» el eeainc, tariea with fie fiaRCy ^ikt fanJ; a gnti
faaatily el tMMCtf, ne^ fcsa tbnn I09,0M utns bt Ae Weetf^
leltiag fteii ane riiilfiag l» eae and aiapeaee; and aoaie of tka
9
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sostftt.
0ittiiA*ft(fld mr ffe mm ifaftAiiig fifty iftilliiigv, tM e^0i>4iiijf
pMiAieS; ttrf drvHiiiRf^ 0f Bnrf iu flh cottAty it giveii' hf fikt Wff$^
Retiil ProtkK€,
<Mm*EAnd^.M.>..MM. 69,(fO0>at ^ fe 93,8001. it » MM 71,4001:
^m.^%. lOOilODi*^ SIM. •— fOO,OOOl. ^ 5 -i-*-^ SOOvOOOl.
^^..»,.^^^. dO,000«^96A-« 19,3001.-^3— «- 75;M)0lr
ytm/tr .«^..«....^l>M)|D00~>18d.^ 9^9601.- 1^.^-^ 12,3751.
ivthe W«ld...,^..US5,000 — 12*. — 255,0001. — 3 765,0001.
WooJv&«-—*-^- 1 70,000— 8s.— 68,00OL— 2 136,0001.
II T a I l<i ■ I • ■ 1 if I
9O9VO00' 402,5601. M59»775i.^
T&B remainder Ib composed of water, roaJs, baiTdtngs, &c. so
fhatthe general rent i8 4d2,0501. or about ten sbilDngs per acre;
and the prodace upwards of a* million and a half sterling.
Leases are granted for seren, fourteen, and' twenty-one years ;
Silt it ^metimes fiappentf that none is allowed, and the tenant de*
pends solely on the honour and good fiiith of bis tandtord.
BoiLDiNGS.'— Many ofthe seats of the noblemen and gentlemett
of StLssex are raised upon a spfendid, no less tlian a useful^, plan ;
so that few districts can boast of more elegant structures of t&at
class. For farm-buildingtr and offices^ stone is tfie materiaT most
commonly used, wherever quarries are conveniently situated fbr
grocuring it;, and this is the case throughout a great proportloil
of the county. Ob the South Downs; and in their vicinity, an-
other material equally good is employed in the constmctlon of
houses. This is ffints, of which the buildings of this district are
in general composed. The use of tiles as a facing for houses is
tery prevalent in Sussex, tn exposed situations, this practice
fffiietually checks the fury of storms^ and preserves the inside of
the
* Agna ol8uai. p, 90.
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16 ■trssBZ.
tbe house air-ti^ht and dry. The cottages of Siusex are aop^
rior ia their ooDstracUoa and accommodations to thoae of maaj
other coaaties; in the Weald they are in general warm and coin-
fiNTtable, many of them being there bnilt of stone, and on the
Downs with flints.
State of tbb Poor.— In a few huftances this county af-
fords examples of the nnioD of a certain number of parishes
to form hooses of industry, in imitation of those establish-
ed m seTeral other parts of England; bnt there is little pro-
spect that this practice will ever become by any means
general, notwithstanding the evident good effects of the sys-
tem. In some of the parish workhouses which, says the Re-
verend Mr. Youug*, seem principally btended in ierrarem,
and without which the parishes would be overwhelmed by the
demands of the paupers, feeble attempts have been made to
employ the poor that are lodged in them; but in great part there
is no attempt at any work. In the year ending at Easter, 1803,
the total sum expended in this county for Uie maintenance and re-
lief of the poor was, 149,9971.
AoRicuLTCTEE. — The proportion between arable and pastme
varies in different parts of the county. In the Weald one.
third is arable, one-third pasture, and one-third wood and waste.
On the south side of the Downs the arable exceeds the pas-
ture in the ratio of thirty to one. On some farms the propor-
tion is lower; but iii others much higher, for there are whole
parishes that have scaixely an acre of grass excepting a little
marsh-knd.
The practice of following very generally prevails in the stiff
soils of Sussex, where it is thought a necessary preparation ; hot
in the rich soil at the foot of the South Downs, the best formeis
never fallow. Though experience has proved that the practice ii
neither necessary' nor profitable, yet some adhere to this system j
•but it is, generally speaking, on the decline.
The rotation of crops adopted by farmers in this district is in
a great
* Agricr of SuiMz, p. 4S6.
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a great meaiarfe governed by the tiature ef the soil which they
• cnltiTate. The most general course pursued on the stiffisr, or
strong loamy days^ may be considered as the standard of the
Weald> and is as fidlows :— 1. Fallow. 2. Wheat 3. Oabu
4. Clover, or ray-grass, two <or three years. 6. Oats, pease^ or
wheat On lighter lands is practised an arrangement which can«
not be too much recommended : — 1. Turnips.. 2. Barley. 3. Clo*
ver. 4. Wheat In the neighbourhood of Battel, Eastbonme;
and other places, a different system is pursued. Here the ro*>
tation is :^1. Potatoes. 2. Barley. 3. Clover. 4. Wheat Up-
on the chalk farms the arrangement is thus: — 1. FaUow. 2.
Wheat a Barley. 4. Clover. d.Wheat; or: 1. Wheat 2. Bar-
ley, 3. Tares, or pease. 4. Oats. 5. Clover; or: i. Wheat
2. Barley. 3. Clover. 4. Turnips; or: 1. Wheat 2. Pease.
3. Barley. 4. Turnips. 6. Tares. In the maritime district the
castomary mode of cropping is in this order ;•— 1. Tares, or
pease. 2. Wheat 3. Clover. 4. Clover, d. Wheat 6. Oats.
This system is adapted to very rich land alone. Particular in*
stances have occurred when wheat has been sown four or fiv^
years in succession ; and the produce has amounted to four or
five quarters per acre. Throughout tbe gravelly soib between
Chichester and the South Downs we find : 1. Pease. 2, Wheat.
3. Barley. 4. Clover. 5. Wheat 6. Pease; or: 1. Turnips.
2. Barley. 3. Clover. 4. Wheat
The new species of wheat, known by the name of Chidkam
wkiie, or Hedge-wheat, was discovered by Mr. Woods of Chid-
ham, in this county. Walking occasionally over his fields he
met with a single plant of it growing in a hedge. It contained
thirty ears, in which were 1400 corns ; and this was the origin
of the seed now dispersed over Surrey, Hampshire, and other
oonnties, and largely cultivated about GuiUford.
The crops not commonly cultivated are, beans, potatoes, buck-
wheat, lettuoes, hops, earrots, rhubarb, opium, sainfoin, lucern,
and chicory.
The greatest quantity of potatoes is raised in the neighbour-
VPL. XIV. Y hood
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IS SUSIES. •
h09d «f Battel, Bastbovrne^ and Cbichestar ; aud tke prodnee it
horn 40Q to 600, and even 700 bnahek per acre^ They aia
akiefly need far fiiltatting boUoeks; and they hare also been
•■qdoyed with snccess ia feeding horses and sheep. Lettaees
of the white coss species have been often raised by Mr. Davis «f
Beddingham ibr hogs ; and he has found them particularly nsefnl
lor feeding young pigs after weaning. Hops are. nuch cnllivated
ia the eaatem part of the county : the latest plantation, cantsin^
ing between three and feur hundred acres, is in the parish of
Salehurst Rhubarb and opium are produeed by the Earl of
Egremont at Petworth for medicinal purposes. The former is
tend equal, and the latter much anperior, to that of fiureign
growth.
The management of the meadow and pasture lands varies but
little from the practices common in other counties ;; though hen
liide^ there is but too much reason to comphuu of negligence
with respeet to the improvement of grazing land. Irrigation is
bat locally known ; and it is only in the western parts of tlie
aouttty that any signs of it are to be observed. Very great im*
provements, however, have of late years been effected in the
marshes situated along the coast, or in the neighbourhood of the
rivers. The stock upon these marshes consists of cattle as wett
as sheep. In the level of Pevensey, which has plenty of fresh
water, the former have been universally preferred ; but the marsh
ground about Winchelsea and Rye being deicient in water is
thought better calculated for the latter.
In the western part of Sussex are some considerable orchardi^
and where the soil is adapted to the fruit, the plantations are
thickly interspaced. The neighbourhood of Petwerth yidds the
l^est cyder of any in the county.
The manures used in Sussex besides common dung are : chalky
hme, marl, sleech, soap-ashes, wood«ashes, peat-ashes, eoal-ashes,
rags, sheep-elippings, pilchards, paring^dust, gypanm. The first
ihree are applied in great abundance ; tbe rest^ from their iiatap%
but partially.
Thfr
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•VSSEX« 19
The breed of Sussex cattle and sbeep fonns the most distia-
gnishing feature in the hosbandry of this county. Th» cattle are
nmyersally allowed to be equal to any in the kingdom. Th^
tbi>n>ugli-bred Sussex cow has a deep red colour^ fine hair, and
the skin mellow, thin, and soft; a small head; a fine horn, thin,
dear* and transparent, which should run out horizontally, and
afterwards turn up at the tips ; the' neck very thin and clean
made ; a small leg ; a straight top and bottom^ with round and
jipringing ribs ; thick chine ; loin, hips, and rump wide ; shoulder
flat ; but the projection of the point of the shoulder not liked, as
the cattle subject to this defect are usually coarse; the legs should
be rather short, the carcase large ; the tail should lie level with
the rump. A ridged back-bone, and thin, and hollow chines, are
great defects in this breed *.
In regard to the quantity of milk the Sussex cows are not to be
compared with some other breeds ; but what they want in that
point, they make up in quality. A good cow will give fire
pounds of butter a week in the height of the season ; and there
are instances when one has yielded ten pounds of butter, and
twelve of cheeHC in the same time. Bu^tter and milk, however,
are not an object where the system of rearing young stock is so
well understood, and so much more profitable. January is mo^t
oommonly considered the best season for cadving; though soma
graziers find two months later a better time. The calves are
usually twelve weeks old before they are weaned ; tliey are then
turned to grass during the summer, and the following winter fed
upon hay* The number of oi^en used in husbandry in Sussex is
considerable; they are broken in at two years and a half old; at
three they begin to be regularly worked for three or ibur years,
very seldom any longer, after which they are fiitted and s^ld to
the marsh graziers : but many persons, especially where the pro-
fitable arrangement of Down and marsh is united in the saipe
&rm, have such an opportunity of fiitteoing these oxen as to turn
them to the highest advantage. Whatever is the work of as «x
Y2 it
* * YoDDg*! View of tb« Agric. of Sunex, p. 353.
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to SUSSEX.
It 18 always so proportioned as not to aflect the growth of ibe
animal. This is the reason why snch numbers of them are seen
coupled in a team. Eight are called a team, and are the common
allowance for a plough, on almost any soil ; but upon stiff land,
ten 6r twelre are nsed. The customary load for a team is from
eight to ten quarters of wheat
In the fiitting of oxen it is not unusual to find excellent con-
trirances to 8a?e labour in attendance. Stalls, or sheds of flint»
are frequently constructed, as at Mr. Thomas Ellman'a, of Shore-
ham, with heelers in each stall for watering, and troughs of com-
munication to convey the water from a pump in the ftirm-yard
to the general trough at the outside of the building, which is
again conveyed to each stall ; so that all the trouble of tying, un-
tying, and driving to water, is avoided. Each stall is sufficient Tor
two oxen, the space of five feet being allowed for each.
Sussex is almost tlio only county that possesses a breed of
sheep as well as cattle, both of great comparative excellence, and
both peculiarly its own. In spite of the artful insinuations of in-
terest and prejudice, the merit of the South Down sheep is so
firmly established, that they have of late years been extending
themselves over the eastern, and particularly the western, sides
of the kingdom, with a rapidity unparalleled in the annals of our
husbandry. The true South Down sheep are polled; and when
well bred have a small head and clear neck, which are very es-
sential qualities ; but the length of the latter is a disputed point
among breeders, some preferring a long neck, because the surftice
produces more wool, and that of a fine quality; while others
think lambs which are spear-necked not so well able to bear se-
vere weather. They stand higher, and are thicker in the hind
than in the fore quarter, the former weighing heavier by two or
j three pounds; and as it sells dearer, this is considered as a crite-'
I rion of great merit in the breed. The jaw is clean and thin, and
should be covered with wool, as it has been remarked, that sheep
free of wool about the jaw are apt to lose it under the belly,which
is a great defect, especially in a cold lambing-time. Wool on
tha
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SOMXX. 81
the poll is not approved, nor any toft on the cheeks. The
•houldero are vide; the hreast open and deep; fore and hind legs
stand wide ; they are round and straight in the barrel ; broad
upon the loin and hips; shot well in the twisty which is a pro-
jection of flesh in the inner part of the thigh, that gives a full-
ness when viewed behind, and makes a South Down leg of mutton
remarkably round and short The South Down farmers breed
their sheep with faces and legs of a colour, just as suits their
fancy ; one prefers them black, another sandy, a third speckled; but
they one and all exclaim against white. Grey, speckled, and mottled
faces and legs are most common* In regard to the quality of
flesh this breed is not surpassed by any in England ; and its wool
is little, if at all inferior to that of the Hereford sheep, as the com-
mon practice of sorting the different wools in Herefordshire is
not known upon the Downs. Their hardiness is unquestionably
demonstrated by their healthiness; and freedom from losses amid
the storms to which they are exposed in winter and spring on their
bleak native hills. All these recommendations, however, are
crowned by an advantage which gives the South Down sheep a
decisive superiority over other breeds ; and this consists in the
small quantity of food required for their consumption. " If,"
says the Rev. Mr. Young, *' the proportion of stock to ground i«
extended over all the South Downs, and the contiguous land, so
as to comprehend a tract of 150,000 acres, the number of sheep
upon this surface from authentic accounts is estimated at 270,000
in summer, and 220,000 in winter; a rate of slocking which is
not exceeded in any other part of England, marsh-land alone ex-
cepted."* The same writer calculates, that on the tract of
Downs between East Bourne and Steyning, thirty-three miles by
six, the average if> about one ewe and a half per acre f. Tho-
rough-bred wethers will fat at three years old to 90 lbs. per
quarter, and the average weight of each fleece may be computed
at 2i lbs.
' There are other breeds of sheep besides the South Down in
Y 3 Sussex,
* Agrical. of Sussei, p. 304- ^ lb. p. 302.
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22 MfssEX.
Sussex, such as the Romney^ Hampshire^ Benet, Wihihire^ and
Somerset. The total amount of all the sheep kept in the coonty^
including the native breed, is calculated at about 400,000.
Sheep-yards, or standing folds, are very judiciously con-
structed on the South Downs. Mr. Ellman has one which in-
cludes an area of fifty yards by twenty, and is sufficient for
iSO sheep, at the rate of one yard and a half for each, so arranged
as to contain sheds all round, nine or ten feet in width, 'and
across the centre, if the flock is numerous. A rack for hay is
placed against the wall which surrounds the whole ; and another, a
double one, along the central shed for the sheep to ibed from in
tech division of the yard.
The horses employed in the husbandry of this county have no-
thing in them which deserves particular notice ; and the hogs aro
descended either from the large B^kshire spotted, or from a erosiil
between that and a smaller black and white breed.
Rabbits, which flourish in proportion to the size of the wastes,
are, therefore, productive in this county. From Horsham and Ash-
down Forests considerable quantities are sent to the markets of
the metropolis.
In some parts of Sussex, as at North Chappel, Kirdford, Sec.
poultry are fattened to a size and perfection unknown elsewhere.
A fbwl when full grown will weigh seven pounds ; the average w
five pounds ; but there are instances of their attaining double that
weight. The Dorking fowls, as they are called, are aH raised in
the Weald of Sussex, but not the five-clawed species, which,
though considered in other parts of England as the prime stock, b
only a bastard breed.
Fish is an object of some consequence in this county. The
Weald contains innumerable ponds, many of which date their
origin from the time when that part of Sussex was the seat of
'nn extensive iron-manufacture ; and in the mill-ponds are now
raised large quantities of fish. Carp is the chief stock ; bat tench,
perch, eels, and pike, are also bred.
Of the agricultural implements used in Sussex there is litUe
tA
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t» MMenre. The man ixmmdoii wlwel-|»iaogli is the Keatieh iian-
wrest In the maritine diTisiaa of the county a ene-wheel
plovgh is highly esteemed. Mr. Woods of Chtdhan he$ ao
quired ooanderable credit by the invenlioii of a lrhee^lh>lkgh
dmrn by two horses abreast, aad worked without any driver. Ik
ttidyes well in stiff land, and ploughs three*fonrths of an acre in
the same time that a full acre ia ptonghed in the eontaon
method.
Whether the hroad-riiare beloi^ to Kent, or is n Sossex int
Tention, yet remains to he decided. The great nse of this •&•
mirahle tool is ibr cntling pea and bean stnhbles, oc.wobdy frU
lows, that do not require plowing. It consisto of an oUoag ahara
two feet long, and four or five indiea wide, fixed to the sock, or
ftont of the gronud-rnt, by an iron ahank in the middle, aai
ttometimes bolted to the side of the ground-rist of a wheel-plonglk
it is pitdied with an moliimtion into the ground, and rained, or
depressed at pleasure, by the elevation or depression of the beaa^
on the gallows. After the stubbles are cut with this machine, they
are harrowed, raked, and burnt ; and the land ia left in exeellent
order hr wheat.
Geneeal HiSTOET.-^AI the period of the anriTal of the
Romans in Britain, Sosaez wan inhabited by a people whom
those conquerors have denomiiwted the Regni. It seems pretty
certain, that this part of the iaiand was never visited by
Cosar, and that its reduction was reserved for Flavins \e^
paaian, who was commissioned by Clandios about A. D. 47»
to estaUish the Roman dominion in the maritime provinces
of the island. This he accomplished without much difficulty^
and fixed his head-quarters at the place now called Chi-
Chester. The site of his encampment is still plainly to be traced
on the Broile, near that city. This general appointed Cogidubnus
governor of the Regni, «nd honoured him with the titles of king^
firiend, and ally, of the Roman people. From this tame we meet
with no particular mention of this district in history^ till the de*
partnre of the Romans left an open field for new invaders.
Y4 ft
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ti gvmx*
In the year 450, the first Saxon force, vnierHengkt and item;
vrived in Britain. Their aucceas allared fresh adventoren ; and
in 477, awther chieftain, named Ella, Itfided with his three sons,
and a considerable nnmber of followers at West Wittering, a Yil*
Jage aboQt eight miles sonth-west of Chichester. Ella soon
made himself master of the adjacent coast, but fovnd himself too
weak to penetate into the country, which was brayely defended
by the inhabitants. He therefore sent home for succours, which,
in 478, arriTod in such numbers, as enabled him to undertake the
nege of the capital of the RegnL The Britons exerted all their
strength in the defenoe of this important place; and so ha-
laased the besiegers, that the Saxon leader was obliged to apply
for a stiD more numerous reinforcement. All resistance was now
Impekss, the city was td^en by assault; and Ella, in revenge for
the obatinate defence of the inhabitants, ordered them ail to
be put to the surord, without distinotiou of age or sex. The
vest of the district immediately snboutted without farther oppo*
sition.*
Ella now assumed the title of King of the Soath Saxons; and
hence this province received the appellation of Sud^tem, axSuues.
He had reigned six years, when, on the death of Hengist, he was
chosen as the bead of the Saxon confederacy, whidi dignity he
continued to enjoy till his decease, in 504, or 505.
Cissa, the youngest, and only surviving son of Ella» succeeded
him in the government of the South Saxons. Being of a pacific
disposition, he cultivated the arts of peace in preference to those
of war, and employed his time and treasure in rebuilding, and
improving his capital, to which he gave the appellation of Cissa^
cester, ailer his own oaipe. Having ruled the Soutix Sa:(ons upr
ward*
• 0seh n the tccoont given by Hey in bit ifiitory tfCkichttUr, on wh^
smbority does not appear. It leeini not improbabJe, that be b«s trantreiTc4
to this place an event wlxicb aaoaliy belongs to tbe ancient city of Am)erida4
respecting the site of which our anti'quaries are by no means agreed.
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lof TOyem, he died, at il is related, ia(i77, al IbeadvaiMd
1^ of 117 yean.
In the year 6d0, we find Adeliralch, or, aahe ia ako eaUed^
Etiiel^wald, on the throne of Saasex. This monareh was altaek*
ed, vanqaished, and taken prisoner, by Wolphnr, King of Herda}
imt having at the conrt of the latter emhiaeed the Cbristi«a re-
ligion, he was rmnstated in his dominions,- Daring his reign,
Ceadwalk, a prince of the blood royal of Wemtat, having ae-
fnired great popularity and inflnence among his countrymen,
nought to usurp the supreme anthority; but his dengna being
timely disooTered and frustrated, he was obliged to ipiit the king*
dom : upon which he fled to the foest of Anderida, now the
WeaM of Snssex, where he subsisted for some tone by heading
a hand of fredbooters. To rid himself of this trouUesome in-
mate, Adekralch attacked and expelled him from his territories.
Some tiiM allerwarda Ceadwalla undertook an expeAtion against
Kent with no better success ; but, in his retreat, again met Adel*
walch, whom he now defeated and killed.
On the death of the king, Berthun and Anthun, two South
Saxon nobles, rallied their countrymen around them ; and by
their Talour and conduct compelled the inyader to retire with
great loss. Very soon afterwards the King of Wessex died» and
Ceadwalla having found means to mount the vacant throne, pre*
parc4 to renew the war with the South Saxons. He accordingly
' again entered their xouutry wiUi a strong army. Berthun and
Anthun made the best opposition they were able; but the former
being dain in battle, tbdr foces were dispensed, and tlie whole
province was miserably ravaged by the enemy. Ceadwalla, how-
ever, was so much employed in wars with Kent, that he was
ebliged to leave to his soccessor the complete subjugation of the
South Saxon monarchy.
After this event no mention is made of this province till, in
M8y Egbert King of Wessex annexed it to hi? dominions. On
the Korman invasion Snssex shared the Me of the rest of the
fungfkiBi and was pareelled out by the Conqueror anioug some of
his
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W «nsu.
Ittiprfaieipal flAem. TolUg«rdeM0iitgoMefj,E«Aof AruA*
del, 1m gave seTeiity-se?eii manon; to Robert, Eail of Mereto»
eid Cornwall, fifty-lbur; to WilliOBi, Earl of B«, whoee dcBoend-
ltlttfaoaoiirofl]Mtiiig%Mj.«ivo; aadtoWUUtii
\ farly«oiie.
QmtB tbii iaiportaat isolation flaewK baa not been axohi^
atrely dklngaiftbed by aay oTtni of oofieieal ooaaeqiieiioo kt
partiaalir record.
HovmnaL Histort.— The ifavt ^onoa oa wbom tbia eooaty
OMBfctid a Ulla of hoaoar was Wuliam bb Auiuri, eoai«>
amly sailed WUiiam with Ae Sirmig Hmd. Hk ^
tbar, of tba oaaM nanoy bad raceived £roai the Coa^eror a
fiaat of the aiaaer of llokeaha», n Hoilidk^ to hold by the
leaua af ofioiatiBg ae batier to the fcia^e of England, oa
the day of their eoroaatioB. The soa beiag in France, aad
having thera refaaed aa olEBr of aMrriage iioai the qoeeaw
dowager, was, by her conaiaad, ahat a^ in a lion'a den,
where he thrust his hand into the moath of the fonaidable aai^
aad, and palled oak hia toagaebytbe roots. Ha?iag gained gieat
aelebnty by this, aad other oxploito, soon after his lotara td
Bagland he oontaracled aa alliaaoe with Adaliaa, widow of Heary
l« and ia her right beeaaie Earl of 8aasex aad ArondeL Som^
tioifs indeed he aabscribed hiawelf Earl of Chicheitar; aad on
other oooaaioos Eari of Anmdel, at wUch places he ohieiy i^
aided ; bat it waa of Saaiextbat be waa really the Earl and had
the third peaay of the pleaa of the oonaty. Ia hisdesoeadaatathe
title continned for three sooeessions, when the family becane es*
Uttel ia the person af his graadaoa, Hagh de AUdni, oa whioh» ia
1943,
JoHW Plawtagsiibt, Earl of Sorrey, half-broth» to King
Henry III. was invested with this earldom; bat on the death of
his aon it again beeame dormant; and thas remained fer near 2(N>
yoairs, till revived, in l^ttd, by Henry Vlil. in fevoar of
RoBBKT Ratoupfe, who earned this distiaotion by liis a8»
vieas during the oaaipaigna of that moaarch ia Fraaoo; and afao
by
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n
tyfaiireiiiinMa to pttHBOle llie divorce of bn loitlcr iram QtMfr
Ctotkcfine. His descendants! wmie of whom irere alike distill*
gnislied for the high posts to which tboy were raised^ and thft
lAportSni services which they rendered to the CtoWn and slali^
«ijoyed the title till the extinction of the &oiily fcy the deaHi
•f the last male heir dormg the rei^ of Charks I. A few y«a»
«fter#ai|ds the king conferred it on
TfiOHAS 8atii^ Baron Pontefraet, and ViscoaM CastMNtf ttt
Irolatid, who, as a reward for his adherenee to the roynl eatase^
WiiB, in 1644, €r«ated Earl of Susses; hat his honours died in
1471 with his son and snceessor, who left no issae. This ta-
«ftney, howerer, was of short daration ; for^ in 1674,
Thomas Lkwkard, Lord Dacres, was adTanced to the digw
nity of fiarl of Sussex, hut he also died witboat male issnw.
The title was soon afterwards hestowed by George I. on
Sir TiMLKOT Yelvbrton, Bart. Baron Grey of Rathen, and
¥is|MHint ijODgneyille, who was created Earl of Sassex in 1717.
On the d^th of Henry, the third Earl of this family, the honour
iMi^nme extinct : bat in 1801 it was reTifed in the person of
Friucb Augcstvs Frederic, sixth son of his Majesty, who
was invested with the title of Duke of Sussex.
SccLEsiAErricAL History. — The South Saxons were among
the last people of the heptarchy to embrace the truths of the
Christian religion. Till the time of Adelwalch, who ascended
the tlirone about the yeaf 6dO, they remained Pagans; but
on tiie «retora of that king from his captivity in Mercia,
where he was converted to the Christian fiiith, he exerted aH
his influence to propagate the religion of the Gospel among
his subjeets. About this period Wilfrid, Archbbhop of York,
havinj^, hr his turbnlent opposition to Egfrid king of North-
nmberland, and for Ais unwarrantable appeal to the Roman
pontiiT, been exiled from the dominions of that monarch, in
^ain sought an asylum in Mercia and Wessex. At ki^th he
a^ibed to Adelwalch, who permitted him to reside in his domi-
nions, on condition that he should use the utmost diligence to
convert
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S8 iUflSBX.
eoDTerk the inhaUUBU to the Christian faith. The king ap*
pointed Wilfrid to be their biahop, assigning the peninsula of
Selsea for hw abode, and that and other lands for the support of
himself and those by vhom he was accompanied Bede relates,
Hiat the labours of Wilfrid were facilitated by circamstanoes^
trhich^ tiiongh they might readily gain belief in his time, require
a greater share of credulity than the present age is disposed to
exercise. For three years before Wilfrid's arrival, aooordiog to
that writer^ no rain had Mien in this province, and the drought
had occasioned such a terrible famine, that the pe^^le, forty or
fifty in a company, joining hand in hand, threw themselTes into
the sea to escape the horrors of a lingering deatlL But no sooner
were the South Saxons received by baptism into the Christian
diurch, than a calm and copious rain restored the earth to its
former fertility. Wilfrid and his companions, oonsidering the
present wants of the people, taught them the art of fishing, of
which they were before ignorant, and this enabled them to pro*
cure a sufficient supply of food till the com should ripen* Being
thus made sensible of the beneficence of their teachers, they were
the more willing, we are told, to trust those with the care of
their souls who had so wonderfully supported their bodies.
On the death of Adelwalch, who fell in battle with CeadwaDa,
the conqueror, so fiur from molesting Wilfrid, confirmed to him
the grant of the peninsula of Selsea, where h^ founded a monas*
tery. Here he resided four or five years, and on the death of
Egfrid, king of Northumberland, returned about the year 685 to
that country, where he found means to obtain his reinstatement
in tlie see of York. After his departure, as Ueylin informs us,*
this see was governed by -the bishops of Winch&iter till 711^
when Eadbert, abbot of Selsea, was appointed bishop of the
South Saxons. During more than three succeeding centuries the
episcopate of Selsea exhibits no more than a barren eatalogne of
names, till the reign of the Conqueror, by whose command the
r^idence of the bishops was transferred from Selsea to Chi-i
ehestei^
• Help to History, p. 84.
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8t/S8BX. 29
tbesler. II was daring the prelacy of Stigand that this remoyal
took place, bat in what year is not clearly ascertaiDed, though it
18 c<mjectared, and with great probability, to bare happened
about the year 1063. Since that period the mitre of Chichester
has been transmitted without interniption through fr long line of
prelates, many of whom were men of exemplary piety and great
learning, fathers of the city and of the diocese over which they
presided ; while others proved benefactors to the kingdom in ge-
neral, patrons of literature, and ornaments of the age in which
they lived. Pr. John Buckner, who was consecrated in 1796, is
the sixty-fifth bishop of Chichester in succession from Stigand.
Ecclesiastical and civil Governuent. — Sussex is com*
prehended in the province of Canterbury and diocese of Chi-
chester. It is divided into the two archdeaconries of Chichest^
and Lewes. To the former belong the deaneries of Chichester,
Arundel, Boxgrove, Midhorbt, Storrington, and Pagham; and
to the latter those of Dallington, Hastings, Lewes, Pevensey,
and South Mailing; but All Saints, Chichester, and all the
parishes in the Deaneries of Pagbam and South Mailing, are
peculiars of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
This county is in the home circuit, pays sixteen parts of the
land-tax, and supplies 600 men to the national militia* It sends
twenty-eight members to Parliament, two for the county, two for
the city of Chichester, two for each of the boroughs of ArundeJ,
Bramber, Horsham, East Grinstead, Lewes, Midhorst, Shore-
ham, and Steyning ; and two for each of the Cinque Ports of
Hastings, Rye, Seaford, and Winchelsea.
Roman Stations, Encampments, RoADfl.*-The numerous
Roman remains discovered in this county sufficiently attest the
occupation of those conquerors. It is pretty g^erally admitted
that the Regnum of Antoninus occupied the site of the present
city of Chichester; and several eminent antiquaries have consi-
dered Midhurst as the Mida, and East Bourne as the Anderiih
or Anderida of the same people. Respecting the Mantantonis,
or Mutttantonit, which must likewise be sought in Sussex, writers
arec
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80 8UASEZ.
are nol agreed. Stukdy places it at Chicfaesler, and baa giTep
a ground-plot of thai city amoog his plates aa suciu The olgec*^
tioD to this opinion is, that Chichester is the Hegnaia both pf
Aatonine and Richard of Cirencester, aad caanot well le both
Regnum and MutuaMt4miS^ If we consider the oid^ in which
the na»e8 of the places occur i^ Ravenna*, we shajl find hia
vante pointiag south-eaat from Cirencester is Gloneeaterahiie to
Roianey in Kent. The Muiuanttrnk baa therefore been fixed
irith mnch greater plausibility at Lewes -, fvr aoppoaing Mida,
«r MUa, to be rightly fixed at Midharst, it is much mate utt
sonaUe to suppose that instead of going firem that place to Cine
ohesterj the passenger, or the soldiers on a march, would parsne
% much nearer road into Kent ; and thaias soon aa they reearered
the top of the Downs from Midhurst^ they would edge away to
the eaal^ and pass the Anindd river mther at Honghton-bridg^
ar Arundel, thenoe make the siraighest coarse to the Shoreham
river by Branber, and ovar Beeding4iiil by Pa^ham^ HoQing-
4»nry, Staumer, and Falmer, to I^wea, and qyu the river at
Lewes to Glyndaiid Firle, and 96 up the Dow^s to East Bodme>
or Anderida. Lewes is situated abont halfway between the latter
and Mutttantonis, which is clearly a Roman naine, compounded
of Mutatio, or Mamio, aad the British Antm, for a, water dr
river; and a wide water it no doubt was at that tine, except jaat
at the point of the Down, whidi juta forwards towarda CUff-hBl,
«o aa almost to meet it, leaving only a naarow pass between for
the river and Iand»floods. In confirmation of this opinion,, a mid*
die brass sestertius of tiie Emperor Adrian was fcnnd in 1771» %t
Glynd-bridge, near Lewes, in cleansing the eewev there, several
feet under the ami, upon ao artificial ford of considerable width>
consisting of flint-stones, with large oak piles driven in at equal
jdistaaces to prevent the flint from shifting by land floods. This
mnt have been a Roman work deaigBed to assist the militasy
tin crossing the river, which was then probably more covoed
.with water than at [nreaent This artifici^ Ibid cannot be sup*
.posed to have led from Anderida to any other plaea than Lenes»
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acticss n
the nmretA f9M over the bn»d mtnary irhieh thn ky aboTe
aa2 bekyw it
The many eneieai oampe still to be seen on the Downs are aft
Cfldeiice that scarody any part escaped being a scene of irsv.
Near Chichester, towards the western limits of the county, we
fiad the Broile on the west side of the city, about half a mile in
iength, and a quarter in breadth ; of an oblong sqaare figwr^
with a single ditdi and a strong rampart On the same side,
biti at the distance of a mile and a half, is the* second, called
Gonshill, of the same hna as the preceding ; and about three
miles ikorthward, on Saint Roche% or Saint Rook's-hiU, is k
eiffcalar encampment, the dismeter exceeding two hvAoag^
whence it is inferred to liave been a work of the Danes. Om.
the northern brow of the Downs, which overieeks the WeaU^
proceeding from west to east, we meet with the following:--^
Chenkbory, two miles west of Steyning, is circular, its circnn*
ference being about two furlongs. At the distance of eight miles
firom Chenkbury, above Poynings, is a very large camp, of aa
9Tai form, not less than a mile round, accessible at one naivow
neck only, md that fortified with a deep broad ditch and a very
high bank. Three miles farther is Wolstenbury, on a hill pro*
Jedtng beyond the rest of the Downs like a bastion ; il is nearly
circular, and about a furlong in diameter. Ditchling, three
milee from Wolstenbury^ occupies the highest hiU in that quar-
ter, and is nearly square, being about sixty rods In lengthy
and fifty in breadth. The north side is secured by the precipice
9f the hill, which is steep and very abrupt; the other three sides
have each their porta, after the manner of the Romans. The
ditch seems to have been eleven feet bread ; but the ground having
been plowed, .the bank is but low. A mile and a half from Lewes,
4H1 Mount Gaburn, is the last of the^e camps on the northern
edge of the Downs. Itjs round, scarcely three furlongs in cin-
^it ; the ditch very broad and deep, and the rampart within of
eoBsidereble he^ht About a quMter of a mile westward of this
thae is anether strong work much larger, bat not so perfect
The
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^ SVMIX.
Tke CftiD|M on the wmUieni border of the Downs are, Bk
Rook's» already mentioned ; High Down, a small square, fonrinilea
eastward of Arundel ; Cissbory, four nules south-west of Steyn-
ing. The only one in the middle of the Downs is Hollingbvry,
two miles north of Brighton: it is a sqnare, the porta still re*
maining, and oontains ai>ont fi^e acres. A mile east of the sasM
plaee, on the top of a hill ubkt the sea, is a eamp, which has a
triple ditch and bank : this is also a square, only the comers are
rounded, and measures on the outside about throe quarters of a
mile. In the parish of Tellescomb, aboYO five miles from the
last, are two camps, both imperfect : the cliff is a south fence
to one; the other is about a mile distant Their west aides
are both finished with very able works ; they were designed finr
squares, and to contain from twelve to fifteen acres. At Newha*
Ten, on the point of a hill which overlooks the harbour's mouth
from the west, is a fortification called Tke Cattle ; the banks
are very high ; the shape near half an oval, containing about six
acres, but formerly probably more, as the cliff which forms the
diameter is yearly moaldering away and foiling into the sea.
Near a mile east of Seaford is another work also known by the
name of Tke Cuttle, bounded by the cliff on the south ; of a se-
micircular form; the trench and rampart large, and inclosing
twelve acres. Three miles east of Cockmere Haven, near Bur-
ling Gap, is the last, inclosing a hill of a half oval shape; the
woiiLs have the same figure and measure, about three qaartera of
a mile in circuit
The roads from Portsmouth, Mtdhnrst, and Arundel, to Chi-
chester, are genendly considered to be of Roman oonstrnotion^
From the last mentioned city the Roman road, commonly called
the Stane Street, proceeded in a north eastern direction towards
Dorking in Surrey, and may still be traced in its progress in
many parts of this county.
In 1717, a tesselated pavement, bath, and other antiquities^
were discovered near Eastbourne. Similar remains have been
found at Chichester and at Bignor, very near the Roman read
from
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StSSE^. S3
Irom that city ; and coins of the Lower Empire have hetii dug
«p in difirent places.
The Raps of CHicuESTEa
lies on the west side of the county, being bounded on the north
by (Bonrey, on the west by Hampshire, on the south by the English
Channel and on the east by the Rape of Arundel. T*be nppei'
di^suBta ^omprdioftds forty-fiVe parishes^ and the low^ twenty-
CmcHESTERy
iirhlefa, aa the see of a bishop, is dignified with the appellation of
m^ ijly, and forms a county of itself,, gives name to the rape of
which it is the capital, it is seated on a gentle eminence, sur*
rounded on all sides except Uie ncMrth by the little river Lavant ;
and sheltered from the north and north-east winds by part of tf
range of hiUs which runs from the Aran to the bordeis of Hamp^
Am*
Few places in Britain can boast of higder antiquity than this
bity. its origin is supposed to date back beyond the invasion
of Britaki by the Romans, when, as some antiquaries assert, it
was the capital of the Regni. Horsley adopting this idea, places
here, with every appearance of justice, the Regnum of the Iti-
nerary. So much at least is certain from inscriptions^ coins, and
otiier remains discovered at this place, that it was a considerable
•talion of the Romans. Its destruction towards the conclusion of
Hie fifth century by Ella has been already nfentioned, as also the
rdkuiiding of the town by his son, Cissa, the second king of the
Sooth Saxons, who named it after himself, and made it the royal
residence and capital of his dominions. As such it is reasonable
to suppose tiiat it was a flourishing and populous city, i^hen
Egbert miited in his own person the sovereignty of all the king-
doms of the h^tarchy. From that period, however, it appears
to have declined ; perhaps not only from the removal of the court.
Vol. XIV. Z but
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94 6USSE2^.
bat also from the incursions of tlie Danes^ by yihom U^e pm^ of
Britain were for some centuries cruelly ravaged. Sussex api
Cbicbester, its metropolis, shared the general calamity. The
valour and patriotism of the inhabitants of thai city, daring
Alfred's reign, are thus recorded by Milton : *' The Danes re-
turning by «^ from the siege of Exeter, a^ in their wmj laadii^
on the coast ^ Sussex, tbe ipen of CbiehH^er saHied out and
s)etr of them many hundreds^ taking also some of their ships.''*
The f empval of the q>isco^ see firam 8dbea, where it had
been established dOO years, to this city, during the reign of
William the Conqueror, proved highly beneficial to Chichester,
which began again to flourish, and has been in a state of pro-
gressive improvement till the pves^nt day. Binee that penod
Chichester^ fortunately, perhaps, for itsdf, has not been the
tHeatre of many of those events that claim a place m the pages of
history, of which so large a portion is filled with calamities.
The siege which it sustained under Charles I. seems to be the
only qrcumvtance worthy of particukr reoord.
In the beginning of the civil war, soon after the battle of
Edgehill, the king came from the western eoupUes as far as
Hounslow, in the hope of terminating the distractions of the
country by a cordial peace. While he lay at Reading, a deputa-
tion of Sussex gentlemen of rank and fortune waited on him, le-
questi^g his authority to ndse the southern counties in his behall
Having obtained the necessary commissions, they pitdied
Chichester, being a walled town, as ftl^e phce of their i
But they were greatly disappointed in their expeetaUims of sap-
port from the people, and were joined by yery few except thmr
own dependents, and many ai these followed with great reluc-
tance. Receiving information in the beginning of 1643 that the
Parliament had ordered Sir William Waller, with a eonsiderahle
force, to attack and dislodge them, they streagtheaed their i
tion, repaired the fortificationsj^ and erected some additional ^
«Hist.of£ii||Lp.«lL
It
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R tMi oir db occttAttn that the btttion on tiie iMrtli irallt be-
Hr^tA ftke two iredt lluieir mttB built ; and it appearg to have be^il
t6tMhttMi nftK tbe tftOAii»of the two small chnrches of St Pancraa
m^BL Batihdomei^, irhich were demolished^ because they stood
Urttfawit tker walls. The parliamentary army, howeyer, allowed
fSMt dppotteifCirbttt RMe time to prepare for defenee. The city
iras ^uittmoned to sorr^def ; and, as the order was not complied
withy the' hatleiies were cypened against it. Sesid^ other da*
nfta^ i^Hfch'lt then sosticined, the noilb-west tower of the cathe-
dfKl wair beaten* dswn, and never since rebuilt in fen mt twehr^
dtoyrtHs'beaieged were obliged to capttalate.
Cfbtehester obtained its first charter of incorporation from Ste-
lAenr : tMs'lkiEurconflrtBed by H'enry IF. King John, and snbbeqiienC
eoitereigns ; bot the charter from which the corporation received
its present consfitatfon was granted by James 11. in the first
year of his reigit: It consists of a mayor, a recorder, aldermen,
ind eommon'-oottneil, without limitation. The mayor isclioaeii
aminally ; three of the aldermen besides him act as justices of
flte peace within the city, and are authorized to hold' a court of
record every Monday in the 6nildhall« for the decision of aD
kifldfa of pleas, phdnts, and actioira.
Tbts city givea the title of Eari to the noble Amily of Pfetham;
OB whom it was conferred in 1801. It has sent two members
to farfhnnettt ever since 23 Edward I. A. D. 1296. They am
ehoaen' by the inhabitants at large, that is, by those who pay
cfanrch and poor rates. There ate about 450 electors, besidei
several honorary freemen, not paytnjg; scot and lot, whose voles
were notwithstanding declared to be valid by a decision in thef
Coort of King'a Bench in 1783, in the cause the late Bryan
Bdwardk, Esq. versui' the Hon. Percy Wyndham, by which the
etectton of the latter was confirmed.
Five annual fairs are held in the city and suburbs : on SC
George'v Day, Whit^Monday, 8t James's Day, Michaelmas old
■fyle, and Sh»e fiiir ten days afterwards. The weekly iparitetn
ere heM* on Wedmefday and Saturday, and are plentifully sop«
Z2 plied.
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35 SUSSEX.
piled. During Um season abundance of oysters are brought to
the fish shambles^ chiefly from Emsworth; and the neighbouring.
const furnishes plenty of lobsters, crabs, prawns, and several other
kinds of fish. The beast-market, held every second Wednesday
tliroughout the year for black cattle, sheep, and hogs, is by Car
the greatest of any in this or the adjacent counties, tiiat of Loih
don alone excepted. The toll of this market, from which black
cattle are exempted, produces upwards of 130L per annnm.
Chichester is situated near an arm of the sea^ which is spa-
cious, well sheltered, and capable of receiving vessels of greal
burden. The entrance is bounded on the east by the point on
which stands the village of Wittering ; and the island of Hay ling
on the west The channel is not difficult; but off the month of
the harbour are sandbanks, which render it impossible fi>r ships
of heavy burden to come up except at spring tides. Owipg to
this cause, and to the distance of the city from the quay, ths
trade of Chichester is not extensive. About the beginning of ths
reign of James I. an act of Parliament was obtained to remedy
this inconvenience, by making the Lavant navigable up to the
city, but it was never carried into execution.
^ About the commeucement of the fifteenth century the Chi^
Chester malt begau to be in high repute throughout this county
and part of Hampshire and ISurrey. Several of the malting*
bouses, which were standing here so late as 1770, bore the mark
and characteristic of that age both in the plan and manner
of building: the timbers, likewise, commonly oak, attesttd
' their antiquity. This manufacture proved a very valuable articls
of trade, enriching many individuals, and benefiting the city iii
general. At what period it began to decline we are not informed ;
half a century ago the malting- houses were more numerous than
at present, though it had then been for some time on the de-
crease.
Chichester, about two centuries sines, nearly, if not wholly,
monopolized the trade of needle-making in England. It wss
principally carried on' in the parish of St. Pancras, witbdlit ths
east
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MStgate, where, before the cWil war onder Charles I. almost
erery house was occupied by a needle-maker. In 1643 this
quarter of the town was completely demolished ; and though the
houses were afterwards rebuilt, the trade was never perfectly
restored. After the revolution manufactories of this article wer*
established at Sheffield and Birmingham ; and though their nee-
dles were far inferior in quality to those of Chichester, yet being
sent to market at a lower price, they obtained a sale on that ac-
count alone. The business is now wholly extinct in this city ;
which, however, still retains a small woollen ftibric.
The population of Chichester during the last century has fluc-
tuated considerably. In 1739 it contained 4030 inhabitants,
who had decreased in 1762 to 3610, who occupied 767 houses.
Since that period the number appears to have been steadily
rising. The returns of 1801 gave 821 houses, inhabited by 4744
persons; but those of 1811 make the total amount of the popu-
lation 6694.
Chichester consists of four principal streets, which meet in one
common centre, and are named, fi^om their situation, after the four
cardinal points of the compass. Each of these was formerly
closed by a gate, now taken down ; and the whole is still sur-
rounded by a stone wall, which with the bastions, excepting one
erected in the seventeenth century, is supposed to have been the
work of the Romans. The streets ai'e spacious and well paved.
The most conspicuous edifice in this city is the Cathedral,
dedicated to the Holy Trinity. On the removal of the episcopal
see from Selsea to this place during the reign of William the
Conqueror, Hugh de Montgomery, to whom Chichester and
Arundel had been granted with the title of earl by that monarch,
gave the whole south-west quarter of the city to Bishop Sti^jand,
that he might there build a church, a palace for himself and his
successors, and habitations for his clergy. The bishop immedi-
ately^ began to make the necessary preparations ; but so com-
pletely had the rapacity of the king drained the country of mo-
ney, that these preparations proceeded very slowly, and Stigaud
Z3 died
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m St788EX.
died liefore he had eviea laid the fomidtlie?^ The paoKe paiimft
oontiaoing to operate doriog the life of the Norqian and his son
Rufua, it does not appear that Godfrey, the second triabop, left
natters in niiiph greater forwardness than he found $hem. In
1091 Ralph vas promoted to the see of Chichester ; bat it was
not till Henry I. ascended the tiirone that he was enj4>kd« under
the anspices of that monarch, to accomplish the work which ha
had much at heart. The cathedral was finished in 1 108, hnt heiiig
boilt principally of wood, it was destroyed by fire in May, 1114.
Ralph immediately commenced the re-edifiication ; and, wilh the
assistance c^the king, whose favour he enjoyed, he fipished this
second church before hb death, which happened in 1123. I>nriiig
the episcopacy of Bishop Sefirid, the second of that name, in
1187, another conflagration is said to have destroyed almoat
the whole city, together with the church ^svi the hpusee of the
clergy; hut from Hovenden, and other chroniclers of those
times, it may be inferred that thb fire only consumed the roqC
and damaged the interior, of the cathedraL It requires but little
penetration indeed to perceive that the walls within have bben
cased with a thin coat of stone, supported at the infercoluinnia-
lions by pillars of Petwortb marble, in the style of the tbir^e^th
century. Of the same material and age are the pillars i?hich
support the upper triforium, though the external arches 9f (he
windows are coeval with the lowest part ot the church, and are pr?
namented with the billet moulding. As the vaulting of the nave,
ehoir, transept, and side aisles, is of the t^ame date, it is mo^
probable that the church was not vaulted with stone at the lame
of the fire, but only ceiled with rafter-work. From these circnin-
stances it appears that though the erection of the present edifice
from its foundation has been generally attributed to Seffi-idj it in
reality ow^ its construction to Bishop Ralph. The plain round
arches and pooch-headed pillars cannot certainly have been in
use much later than his time. The Chronicle of Winchester says :
DedUcata est ecchria Cicestrue a Seffrido ejusdem loci episcopo
J, D. 1199, 2do idus SeptemhrU : and again : Obiit Shjpidm
epiteopus
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^iic&pu9 Cieetiri^ A. D. 1204 ; but no mentioii is made of ht»
boildingB ; and it can scarcely be supposed that had he erected
from its foondation so large an edifice as this cathedral, a ciroum*
stance so mneh to his honour wouTil hare been omitted, paiticn-
l^ly as churchmen were the authors of those annals. In an an-
cient MS. catalogtie of the prelates of this see, preserved in tUe
archives of the dean and chapter, he is l^us mentioned : Seffri^
dug r€'€Bdi/&avtt Cicestriam et domos suas m palatio, but no-
thing is said concerning the church* Hence it is natural to infer
that he only executed the repairs described above, with the ex-
ception of the vaulting, and the space between the ahar-screen
and the entrance into the Lady Chapel, by which space the
cathedral has evidently been lengthened in the work, the style
of which indicates a later period of the thirteenth century. In
this part the arches of the lower trtfbrinm are gorgeously orna-
mented with difierent devices ; and the upper windows, which,
as ah^ady observed, are circular throughout the rest of the
church, are here pointed. These repairs and additional build*
ings were most probaUy carried on by Bishop Aquila, and com-
pleted by Bishop Poors, who was the greatest builder of his
age.
No subsequent alterations have taken place in the church, ex-
cepting the insertion of the large west window, and the windows
in the north and south transepts. The latter, which, lor ele-
gance of tracery and justness of proportion, may vie with any
work of the kind in England, was erected at the expense of 3101.
by Bishop Langton early in the fourteenth century, and is justly
styled in the table of the prelates of this see put up by Bishop
Shnrbome, magnam et sumptuosam fenestram. It was glazeif
with painted glass, which remained uninjured till destroyed by
the fanatics in the great rebellion. The same prelate built the
chapter-house, and gave lOOl. towards the repair of the church,
part of which was probably employed in the erection of the oppo-
site window in the north transept, which is of the same dimen-
sions as the other, but more simple in its traeery. Ifn 129^
Z 4 liington
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40 SUMXX.
lAiigtoa wtt appointed lord-chaaoellor by Edward I. ; and iu
1305 consecrated bishop of this see : being a man of extraordi*
nary prudence, he was, in 1310, selected as one of those whose
baainess it was to be near the person of Edward II. and to
^vise him concerning the government of the kingdom and of
himself. He died in 1337, after having filled the episcopal chair
of Chichester thirty-three years, and lies buried under tlie great
window which he built in the aouth transept. His tomb wa«
richly omaincnted ; and, though much defaced, still retains some
traces of its original beanty.
The Lady Chapel, at the east end of the cathedral, was built
jind endowed by William de Sancto Leofardo, the predecessor of
jAugton. It is an elegant building, but its appearance ia much
injured by the filling up of its east window, which greatly disfi*
gures the view of the cathedral at that end. This chapel is now
fitted up with book-cases, containing a considerable collection
of valuable works. Beneath it is a spacious vault belonging
to the ducal family of Richmond, whose banners are suspended
over the entrance, 'above which is this inscription : Donutsul*
fima.* On the south side of the library is th^ elegant monument
of Dr. Edward Waddington, who filled the episcopal chair of
Chichester from 1724 to 1731 ; and on the north side of the
entrance of the Richmond vault is a black marble tomb, with a
mitre and crosier carved on the top, and the words Radtlphvs
ippiscopys engraved at the end of It. On the opposite side are
two tombs of the same material, and ornamented in the same
|nanner : they are placed side by side, nnder an arch evid^irfly
con-!
* On tliis inscription the late Ke^. Mr. Clarke, a canon residentiary of thf
cathedral, composed the following lines :
Did he who thus inscribM this wall
Not read or not believe St. Paul,
IVho sajf!! there is — where'er it stands--*
Another house not made with hands f
pr may we gather from these words,
Ott leianot a Hoase of i>rrfi f
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SUSSEX. 41
4Sii8tnicted long sfter tKe tombs which it cowtsn, and which
.sre the monnmaits of the bisbops Sefirid II. and Hilary^ his p%«
tron.
The choir is rery richly fitted up ; the stalls are of brown oak,
finely carved and gilt, with the names of the dignities and pre«
bends painted oyer them iii ancient characters : the misereres are
eicqoisitely carved, and extremely cnrious. These stalls were
erected by Bishop Shurbome in the reign of Henry VIII. as was
also the beantiful altar^screen, oonstmcted of the same materials
as the stalls. Above it is a gallery, in which, before the Re-
formation, the choir was placed at the celebration of high mass,
and which is perhaps almost the only specimen of the kind re-
maining in this country. The other parts of the choir are finished
in the same style, the whole bearing a strong resemblance to
foreign ' cathedrals, firom which Bishop Shurbome probably ae*
quired his ideas, since in the early part of his life he passed many
years in the service of Henry VII. as ambassador to foreign
courts. This prelate also caused the paintings in the south
transept to be executed by Bernard i, an Italian artist, or, as some
assert, but without any degree of probability, by Holbein. The
first exhibits the interview between Wilfrid and Ceadwalla, in
which the latter is represented as the person who granted the
island of Selsea to Wilfrid, whereas it is evident, both from Bede
and William of Malmsbury, that it was Adel walch, king of the
South Saxons, who founded that church. Wilfrid, attended by
his clergy, is seen coming to the king, who stands at the en-*
trance of his palace, surrounded by his courtiers, and addressing
him in these words, inscribed on a scroll t Da servU Dei locum
hahitationis propter Deum. Ceadwalla's answer, which is on an
open book, held by an attendant, is : Fiat stent petitur. In the
hack-ground is represented the peninsula of Selsea, the parish
church, as it remains to this day, and the sea, bounded by the
blue hilb of the Isle of Wight. The subject of the other piece
is the interview between Henry YIII. and Bishop Shurbome.
7he latter addresssp the king in these words, written on AproU ;
t SanC'^
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40 fVMU.
SUmdimme iWi fti^ier Ihmm dectm etetumm i
iwmiemjam emih^draUm, sieut Cemdumlla rem Smms eedeiiam
SeUse olim imthedralem decaravit, Henry'i answer, innmifcg^
on an open hMk, k •» ftUowt : Pra. «»«r« xi» ^v^^' jMttr opn-
€mI9. 8lwriMnie ia attonMI by hia clergy in Um^mam mmmm
aa 81. WiifrM; tM king ia alanding at tl» aatnaae of tiie pdaae
wiiii hia aHeiJanla ; and» by an anachromaai not nBconiaon in, Urn
paimingn of thoao 4aya, bin hOm, Uonry ¥IL in plaoed as fab
vigbi lttn4 Theae pinteaa are finely exeented, and »e e»-
Iraaely mbnUe aa BepreaeatatMoa of the earleBiarticai and liy
caatnmaofthafcage.
. On tfae noilk aide of Ibe aame tanaept ai» tb^ portmta of aH
the kittga of Ei^land, fmn WiUian tbe Ceo^purav t>€^mg»]k
aoine ef Ybkb am. veil exeented, particnlarly tbean of Queen
lfary> Biiiibeth^ Jaam. L and Chariea L Tbo nnnth aideia
villi tbo portaailB of aU tbe biabopa of SelMnand dm-
tiU tka Befarmation. Under each pminte in a abort no-
of hiai bfongbt down by Biabop Sbnib^rne to bin om
tnne^ ainee iiycb only lohn Cfariatopbenenv tbe kat Catbolic
biabop, baa been added. Tbnao painfeinga ooolribnte gaeatly to
tbe eobelliabmeni of tbia part ef the eborcfa, wfakb, antbotun-
aapto fame no aide aialea, would otiMrwiae be too' phun.
It ia not impiobaUe that Beraaidi painted the vaulting of die
ebnicb^ wfaiob appean to Iumto been exeented with gi«at bold-
neaa of eolooring : the oinamente are iowen» and the ama of
tbelMindiraandbaieftetovnoltboehniohy with acvoUa- of* writing
under eaeb. Tbe anaa of WiHiaai of Wykefaani are frequently
fapentod wHli bia motto : ** Mmmen makyik iKan''— and tiua
addition: Qnod WUHam Wyhekam.
Biafaop Sbnrbome alao founded four prdbenda in thin cburobi
and incveaaed tl«e nnaiber ef eboriatere. Ho died in*l58gi and ia
buried in tbe noiik aiale of the ehoir under a- whito narUo bm»«-
nuHMn^ on whiob lien bia effigiea dveaaed in the pontifieal habik
The ligwe and temb were richly- adorned ; but they were vncii
da«Me»bythoi«pabli«na. Thaaianatill MMitt with thefel.
lolling
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bvipg iMCriptton: Jff j»<r«f im jt$^€iuim cum Mrep m^^ J3^
9IIPU, ROBSET SBVftBOBV^.
Th^ ehaotary of St Hichiffdj hrmedj Bishop of Chicboilor»
Btandb w tbo south transept of tho cothedml at tbo back of tbt
•tails. It is a beaatiftil shrine of Crothio workmanship, consist
ing of three elegant ciaqnefoil arches, omawented with orockota
«nd Bfinial. The arches i^ng from dragons^ and olhor gratewpHi
figures, which are now greatly mntiUted, and aio separated hy «
slender bnttnent, terminating with a pinnacle. AhoTo the grand
arches is a range of small ones, with oinqaefoU beads, sv*
iiu>nnted with a cornice and foliage. The foof within is groined,
hyiving key^stones and rases at the interseetiona. The tomb ef
^e saint stands upon the pnvement in the middle of the ohantry ;
its stdfs are enriehed with pointed arches aUemately wide and
narrow ; and the flgnre of St Richard, which Uea on the tomb»
i§ in tolerable preser?ation, considering the ha?oc made here by
4be emissaries of Cromwell. His shrine was visited by the Can
tholics, oven i»ince the Restoration, on his anniversary, the 9d of
April. This prelate, snmamed de la Wieh, was a Oominiean
ftiar, whot, having ingratiated hisMelf into the fitvonr of the
4)onrt of Rome, was admitted into the secular clergy, and oonse^
«rated bishop of this see in 1245. Ho is recorded to have wronght
many miracles, particnlarly to have fed 9000 peeple in a miraen-
lo9s m^inner. He died in 13S8, in his d6th year, and was cane*
nisod by the Pope.
In the north side aiale of the eboir is a Bmrhle monnment, with
the efBgies of ^ bishop; hot the inscriptioB is taken away, and
(he arB9S have been defii^. It ia supposed to be the tomb of
Adam Molina, slain at Portsmouth, in 1449, at the instigation of
flUchard, Duke of York.
Behind the high altar are two plain tombs, one of wUoh ie
naid to be Bishop Story's, and the other may be that of Bishop
Day, who died in 1656. These, with the monument of Bishop
John Arundel, who died in 1478, are the only tombs of prelates
prior to the Ref<»inatioi^ mpw remaining in this chnreh. It con-
9 tains
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44 80MEX.
tftiifs many Mpulebral stones, some of them of iimnense me;
which were formerly adorned with brasses of bishops, rader
stately canopies, as may still be traced by the places in which
the brasses were inlaid. Many of these stones were probably Te-*
noTod from the choir into their present situation in the n^ve and
side aisles, aboat sixty years since, when the choir was pared
with blade 4ind white marble. The repnblicans stripped the brass
from these and all the other monamental stones in the chnrch,
which have been very nnmerons.
The nave of this cathedral is remarkable for having what ap-^
pears to be a double aisle on each side; but these additional
aisles are of later construction than the others, and were evi* {
deatly divided into many chantries and chapels, in some of I
which are piscinaa and traces of the altars formerly erected
in them : in one of those on the north side is an ancient mo- ,
Bvunenty with the effig:ies of a man in armour, and a lady at his |
feet. This is commonly supposed to be the tomb of one of the I
Earls of Arundel, and appears to have been removed hither I
from some other situation; the head of the figure reposes on>
a coronet; and on the breast is a lion rampant, the arms of
that illustrious house. Opposite to this monument is a neat
tablet, executed by Flaxman, and erected by public subsorip*
tion, to the memory of the unfortunate poet, William Gol*
lins, who was bom and died in this city. He is represented
as just recovered from a fit of phrensy, to which he wss sub-
ject, and in a calm and reclining posture seeking refuge fixHn bis
misfortunes in the consolations of the Gospel, while his lyre, and
one^of his first poems, lie neglected on the ground. Above sro
the figures c^ Love and Pity, entwined in each other's arms.
Underneath are these lines, the joint composition of William
Uayley and John Sargent, Esquires:
Ye who the merits of the dead revere.
Who hold misfortune sacred, genius dear.
Regard this tomb, where Collins, hapless name !
SoliciH kindness with a double claim.
Though
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8UMIZ. 4ft
Though natore gave him, and thou^ scieoce iaiigbt
The fire of fancy, and the leacb of thought.
Severely doona'd to penury's extreme.
He past in maddening pain life's feverish dream ;
While rays of genius only serv'd to shew
'The thick'nlng horror and exalt his woe.
Ye walls that echoed to his frantic moan.
Guard the due record of this grateful stone ;
Strangers to him enamour' d of his lays.
This fond memoriai of his talent»raise ;.
For this the asbes of a bard require^
Who touch'd the teoderest note* of Pity's lyre,
Who join'd pure faith to strong poetic pow'r^.
Who in reviving reason's lucid hours.
Sought on one book his troubled mind to rest.
And rightly deem'd the book of God the best.'*
tn the ebisters is intemd Willuun- Cbilfingworth, an eiiii»
pati divise of the 17th eestuiy, and the celebrated ohampion of
llie Church of England againat that of Rome, fie was taken
prisoner by the Parliamoitary farces at Amndei, and brought to
Chichester, where, after a short illness, he expirad ittcthe episeo-
jmk palace. His epitaph is as follows :—
Virtuti Sacrum.
Spe certissima resurrectionis.
Hie reducem expectat animam,
Guutuivs Chuxuioworth
A. M.
Oxonii natus et educatus,
CoUegii Sauctx Trinitatis
Socius, Decus et Gloria ;
Omni litterarum genere celeberrimus ;
Ecclesiae Anglicanx ad versus Romauam
Propugnator invictissimus ;
Ecclesix Salisburiensis Cancellarius dignissimus.
Sepultus Januar. mense A. D. 164},
Sub hoc marmore requiescit.
Nee lentit damna sepulcd.
Tha
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The iMitfIr tninept tottMd «*m parkhehimsli, ttrf dM6etlei«»
SU Peter. Tli« YMltiDg of tfie ebaiied b thit ^ n a cvrioos
Bpecimeii of the highly pointed arches of the tdtii eenfory, orna-
mented yfiitk the Saxon zigzag. On the ontside of it is left aoBft
portion of a building, which appears to have been the habitation
of some chantry priests : the door by which they an sappesei
to haTo decended into the chorch to pedbim theur offieea stUI !«•
mains.
the spire, 297 feet ia height^ is of stosM^ aad admed with
pinnacles at its base. Its. style fesa the dsts of its sraslienaboot
the middle of the Mlb cMmrf; atti iMiilioa SMVibea ito con*
stniction to the same woitmen who reared the spte e^Salisbary
cathedral. In 1721, it was strad: by^ Kghtnlag, tHien sereral
large stones were dislodged : one in partScubir, weighing i
three quarters of a hundred weight, was thrown orer the I
in West Street without dsuig any dansige in itadeseenl Vo-
ihiag law than the Iril el the spire, aad th« cedse^en* dertma*
tioB of a coasidenUe past of th^elatch^ wassfprslnnM; bril
ett a survey, it waa fuaai^ ihaA theagh. m eittssianMe bssaob
had been mafc about forty feet ftooi the top, yel the wmmdnr off
the building was firm and compact It waa aooa« ao dompietelj ie«
paired that no traces of the iojory can now be discoTered.
At the north«west eoraer of the chareh is a strong square
tower, with four turseta and a kathor^eontaiiiiiig a ring of eight
musical bells. It is not haawn by wiwm it was erected, thougk
Camden rehites, that William Kyman, being forbidden by Ed-
ward II. to build a castle for himself at the neighbouring Village
of Appledram, employed Hre materiala which he had collected
for the purpose in this erection. As no mention of such a cir-
cumstance is made in the records of the church, it is surmised
that Bishop Langton might have purchased the stones for this
use. The architectsre of the tower is evidently in the style of
his time ; before it was built the bells hung in the tower of the
spire, though it was scarcely ralcnlatcd to support their weight
During the short auBge of Chichester by the Ptdiamentary
tiuopa
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sinMiNic. 47
w4 the gfe«( ^weil wi«dQW deiiu»lisM : M IhiBHeQidental aiuh
<Mff««ff fNT «K«^wl by tli9 waattt btv^ Miiiniltod by 4hoM
4mlMit No flMMi had Uiey entered the dfy than, by the er-
dm of tlMk cmModep^ Skr WiUiem Waller, they feU to wqgk
to despoil the saered edifite. Thef boeke dewn the organ, and
d^fc#ed the oiawneirtB im the eboir; they overthrew the toiabi
in 4he ehareh^ whinb ^Ihegr' stripped sf their bmases; they pfaia^
deitd tile saeitiMMUd plain; and tare nU the biUes, service, and
ainigtng haah% asattering the lenvee over the ofanrch Bad chnrefa*
>ard. The ater, hoth in the eathedral and anb-deanery, or
pariah ehnveh in the north tennept, they hroke down, and de»
aliioyed the pnlpit, pews, and, in short, every thimj^ that waa
nal proof against their pde-azes. In 1647, or 1648, another
pifTty, under the command of Sir Artiiur Haslerig, waa sent hither
by Greomeil^ to iisash tiie wmrk of devastation, which, as it was
aUedged, their predeceasora had left incoo^plete. These, after
destagriag all the repairs which piety bad made, proceeded te
the chapter-hoQs^ the door of which being locked, they Aveed
open vith ifon crows; and, after aeizing the pnblic money beleng-
ing telhe choreh, demolished every thing, even tearing down ^e
waioseoi of the rooms. The episoopal pidace shaied tfie same
fatOj as did ako the deanry, the honsea of the canons, vicars, and
othem belonging to the ehnrek
Thiaeathednti has been fer seenhr canons from the thne of its
ereetion, and was therefore not changed by Henry YIII. The
fonndaitfoA.consistsof a dean, precentor, chancelknr, treasorer, two
ai»hdeacons» thirty prebendaries, ie«r of whom» having always
been colled to cesidence, are styled canons reridentiaxy, ibar
viears, and a snfficient choir.
Tim dimensions of the variena parts of thi;i cathedral are as
fiOkw :-*tetal length from east to^west^ inx^lnding the Lady
Chapel, 410 feet; of the transepts ftom north, to sovtfa, 227; the
tieadth of die ehoir^ and ride at the east '^d 62 ; of the nave
and
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48 60BBM.
aod aisles^ which have four rows of pillars 9ik ; t&e heighl of tfai^
Taulting 63 ; of the spire 297, and of the hetl-tower 120. The
cloisters, which are situated on the south side of the churchy and
have hceu mach injured hy the filling up of the lower range of
windows, form a quadrangle^ the south side of which measures 120 ;
Iftie east 128 ; and the west side 100 feet.
Within the walls of the dty there are six parish churches:
St. Peter the Great, also called the Subdeanry, within the oh
thedral; St, Peter the Less, St, Olave^s, St. Martin^ St. An*
drew' 9, and All Saints. Without the east gate is a seventh, de-
dicated to St. Pancras; and without the west gate the parish of
St, Bartholomew, which has only a bnrial-grouad, the church,
together vitb that of St. Pancras, having been demolished in the
seventeenth century, when the city was besieged by Sir Williaai*
Waller.
lu 1802 and 1803, St. Martin's was repaired, or rather re-
built> at an expense of 17001. through the munificence of Mrs.
Dear. The fabric, though solid end strong, is not heavy, and ia
a good imitation of the Gothic style of architecture.
The Bishop's Palace underwent a thorough repair in 1785,
when it was- considerably enlarged and improved. In digging
the foundation for the new buildings several coins of Nero and
Domitian, and a curious Roman pavement, were found by the woik*
uit:u ; from which, and other circumstances, it is conjectured, that
the mansion of the Roman propreetors <«ice occupied this spot.
The work of Bishop Sherborne is still very visible in many
parts of this edifice, particularly in the magnificent dining-roooi,
^vhich has a tine ceiling divided into compartments, and adorned
with the arms and devices of that prelate, and the prindpal fa-
milies of the county. The present bishop has adorned the win-
dow of this room with painted glass^ and repaired and ornamented
the whole palace, which was very much dilapidated on his ac-
cession to the government of this diocese. The chapel is a
beautiful building, erected in the l^fth century; but aome of the
windows
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win^trs ^rere HiBerleii «t n kter period. Tlie gardenB, lAich
have f Me advsntagte of a fine tefrace-walk Dn tbat part of tiie
Clky mils iodoged by them are taatefuOy planted and laid out
fhe Deiorty ift a handsome and eooTenient edifice, hntlt by the
ceSebraDed 19hektock, ivhen dean of ibis eathedral : it is pleasanfly
tfitoated^ as a^e also ihe houses of the residentiaries, all of which
have good gaMens; with terrace walks on the city walls. In the
residence of the fiiev. Mr. Marwood, the senior canon^ is a Saxon
dbdr with a zigzags omam^t, eonjectnred to be a relic of the mo-
naitery of 8t Pi^r, which eltlsted here prior to the erection of
the cathedral. The Canon-gate^ which leads into the Close, was
ereieted abodt Ihe time of Bishop Langton. Near it is the entrance
into the Vicar's Close, where, at the north aide of the qnadrangle*
ai« some finerenmrns of the refectory.
It b the general opinion that the structure caHed the Friary,
sitnaled near the north gate, was originally buiH by Roger de
Montgomery, Earl of Chichester, who, on receiving from the
king the grant of the city, pitched on this spot as a proper place
pn which to erect a castle for his residence, and caused it to be
marked out and walled round to the extent of ten acres. Mr.
Hay, however, questions the correctnefss of this tradition. "Every
person,^' sajs he *, ** the least acquainted with ancient architect
tare, on viewing the FViary in its present atate, will be convinced
that a considerable part of the building still remaining is of
higher antiquity than the Conquest. In several places, in tiie
old building, the walls are of flint, the arches a kind of ellipses^
and turning down at each end in an angle, some more, some less,
from 100 to 130, and 140 degrees. Many of the windows, and
some of the door-places, have the Gothic arch inclosed in a square,
or long square. Other circumstances join to pi'ove the superior
antiquity of the Friary. The wall whidi separates the precinct
from the city is built in the same manner, and of like materials
as the cHy walls, which are confessedly of Roman fkhrication ;
that the mount, whoever made it, was raised in order to erect a
VaL, XIV. 2 A tower,
• HUt. ofChich. p. 210.
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so mssEX.
tower^ or citadel, on it is plain ; the fonodalioiis may be tiaeed aU
round the top, except the part opposite to the glacis; the mortar,
or rather cement, is as hard as the stones themselves.'' The site
of the mount too, on the spot most proper to defend the lines, the
same writer considers as a satisfactory proof of its haTiiig been
raised by the Romans ; and hence concludes that the military of-
ficers were stationed in this north-east quarter of the city. Vtom
the nature of some part of the ground in the park, or paddock,
it is evident that the castle of Earl Roger, with its appurte-
nances, occupied a great deal more room than the present
building. After the expulsion of that family the lordship of.
the city was vested in the Albinis, Earls of Arundel; and,
in 1233, was given by William, the fourth Earl, to the Grey
Friars of the order of St. Francis, by whom it was occupied
as a convent till the Dissolution; after which Henry VIII.
in his thirty second year, A. D. 1541, granted it to the mayor
and citizens of Chichester, by whom it was leased for 999 years,
excepting the chapel, which was converted into a GuUdhali, and
used as such ever since. It is a spacious, but by no means mag-
nificent, structure. In digging a few years since close to the
hustings, in order to erect galleries for the grand and petit ju-
ries, the workmen found the bones of some of the friars who had
been interred there near the altar ;. but no other relic of any
kind was discovered.
Considerable remains of the conventual buildings, of the same
age as the chapel, existed a few years since ; but they were re- .
moved to make room for more convenient offices to the residenae
of Admiral Frankland. The wall, which inclosed the preeioet.of
the monastery, still remains ; it comprehends a space of about ten
acres, forming a very pleasant park, within which is the mount
mentioned in the preceding quotation from Mr. Hay.
The CatmcH-ckamber in North Street was erected in 1733, by
subscription, to which the Duke of Somerset, then high steward
of the city, gave 100 guineas. It is raised on arcades, and the .
ornamental part of the building is of the Ionic order.
CooU-
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8t788St« 61
ContigQoas to the Council Chamber is the A$$emhly Room,
likewise built by BabBcription^ abont 1781. It is an elegsnti
•pacionsy well proportioned room, fifty-nine feet in length, in-
cluding the recess, thirty-two in breadth, and twenty-eight in
height Here assemblies are held every fortnight during the
Winter season, and also occasional concerts, for the benefit of
which an organ was some years since erected by John Marsb,
Esq. a gentleman of this cityj well known to the musical world
by the many excellent compositions which he has published.
The ITieatre, which stands at the lower end of South Street,
was rebuilt in 1791, by Mr. Andrews of Chichester. Its exterior
has some pretensions to elegance; within it is roomy and oon«
venient.
The Custom Haute is in the West Street, haying been somo
years since removed thither from St. Martin's Square.
The Cross stands in the centre of the city, at the intersection
of the four principal streets. According to jthe inscription upon
it this cross was built by Edward Story, who was translated to
this see from that of Carlisle, in 1475. It was repaired during
the reign of Charles II. and at the expense of the Duke of Rich-
mond, in 1746 ; though we are told that Bishop Story left an
estate at Amberley worth full 251. per annum to keep it in con-
stant repair ; but a few years afterwards the mayor and corpora*
tion sold it in order to purchase another nearer home. The date
of the erection of this structure is not mentioned in the inscrip-
tion ; but, from the style and ornaments, it must be referred to the
time of Edward IV. This cross is universally acknowledge^ to
be one of the most elegant buildings of the kind existing in Eng-
land. Its form is octangular, having a strong hutment at each
angle, surmounted with pinnacles. On each of its faces is an
entrance through a pointed arcb, ornamented with crockets and a
finiaL Above this, on four of its sides, is a tablet, to commemo-
rate its reparation in the reign of Charles II. Above each tablet
is a dial exhibiting the hour to each of the thfee principal
streets; the fonrtfa being excluded from this advantage by stand-
2 A 2 ing
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52 sossEx.
mg st an angle. In the centre is a large circular eolamn^ the
l«senient of which forms a seat : into this colnmn is inserted a
tktnnber of groiniugs^ vliich, spreading from the centre, form dtfe
h>of beantifblly moulded. The centrftl column appears to con-
tinue through the roof, and H supported without by eight 'flying
^nttresses, which rest on the several comers of the bniMlng.
Tin a few years since this Cross was used as a rirafket-j^lace, biH
the increased population of lihe city recpiiring a more extensi^
area for that purpose, a large and convenient Market^hotiie
was, about the year 1807, erected in the North Street, i>u the
completion of which, it was proposed to take down this Cross, then
considered as a nuisance. Fortunately, however, the city was
exempted from the reproach of such a proceeding, by the public
apirtt t)f some of the members of the corporation, who purchased
several houses on the north side of thn Cross, in order to widen
flrnt part of the street by their demolition.
The Grammar School, in West Street, was founded hy Bishop
Story in 1497, for the education of the sons of fi-eemen of the
city, and endowed with the prebend of Highly, in the gift of the
dean and chapter.
In the same street is also the Frce-Sckoof, founded in 1702, by
Oliver Whitby, witii a particular regard to navigation, and en-
dowed with lands to maintain a master and twelve boys ; four of
Chichester, four from West Wfttcrhig, and four from Harting.
Besides these seminaries the city has two Charity Schoois,
'«ne for clothing and educating twenty-two poor boys, and twenty
ipris ; and the other for the instruction of thirty boys.
Among the benevolent institutions of Chichester, the most an-
cient is St. Mary's Hospital, situated in St. Martin's Square.
It is said to have been originally a nunnery, founded by William,
6fth dean of the cathedral in 1173, or 1174 ; but at what period,
or on what occasion, it was converted into a hospital for indigent
penons, it is impossible to ascertain. Its annual revenues, at
the Dissolution, were valued at 111. lis. 6d. The buildings of
the hospital, in their present state, consist of a spaciom refectory,
adjoining
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SUSSEX. 53
*
•4ioipuig to which, on either side, are th^ spartnents of the
brethren and sieters. At the east end is the chapel, about (ofty
feet long, and twenty wide ; having, a lo/l^ coved ceiliiig an^
Gothic windows. From the style of its architecture it mnst have
been rebuilt about. 1407, w,!ien ther^ opcurs a|i episcopal mandate
for its consecration. It contaiiis stalls for the members; and
ijear the altar ist a yery fine j^iscina,, and a richly aculpUired stpne
shrine, with stalls fov the priest, deacon, and sub-deacon. Th^
present members are six poor women, and two'poor men. Xhe af-
fiiirs of this hospital have t^n ever siace its fpuodation under the
mauajg^emeut of the dean ai^d <;hap1;er of Chiohester ; and the deai|
b the present warden.
Just without the north g^te stands the Worh-house of the city^^
thf^ {parishes g^ which were united by Act of Parliament, in 1753,
since which time tbe poor are here maintained under the su-
yerintendance of thirty guardians, whp ai;^ incorporated by th^
s)^9e act, aad annually chosen at J^aR^ by the res^ctlve
^acishes.
In 1772, Mr. John Hardham, a tobaccouist in Lon4oo, a native
of Chichester, left by his will the interest of all his estates to the
guardians of the poo^, " to ease the inbabitauts in their poor-rates
for ever.'' This valuable legac^f amounting to 6531. per annum was
Sjobjiect to the life of the housekeeper o| the testator, so that it
was not till 1786 that it reverted to the city.
The Dispemary for the relief of the sick poor, supported by
annual . subscription, was originally established in 1784, chiefly
through the humane exertions of the Rev. Mr. Walker and Dr.
Sanden.
About 1773, or 1773, the north, west, and south gates were
taken down to improve the city. The east gate, because it sup-
ported the city gaol, was not demolished till 1783, when a new
Gaol was erected on the south side of the place which that gate
had occupied.
Besides the convent of Grey Friars and St Mary's Hospital,
Chichester anciently contained other, religious and benevolent in-
2 A 3 stitntioas.
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54 808SEX.
ftlitatioDS, of which no traces now exttt A monastery dedicated
to St. Peter is said to have stood on the site of the cathedral be-
fore the translation of the qtiscopal chair from Selsea; and men-
tion is made of a nunnery here of great antiquity. Eleanor,
qneen of Edward I. is recorded as the foundress of a convent for
Black Friars^ dedicated to St. Mary and St. Vincent ; and as early
as Richard I. there was a hospital for lepers^ dedicated to James
and St. Mary Magdalen, and valued at the Dissolution at 41. 38. 9d.
per annum.
Chichester, according to Mr. Hay, contains other remains of
Roman architecture heiUdes those in the Friary already noticed.
*' Among these }. reckon/' says he, " the Canon- gate, and some
of the contiguous building. Bishop Sherborne, indeed, repaired
the gate-way, and placed his arms upon it, but that was all ; the
foundation and the greatest part of the superstructure are evidently
Roman : so also are the vaults in the South Street, at present
flSM) in the occupation of Mr. Redman, wine-merchant, with the
buildings over them, for a considerable way towards the cloisters,
including the old concert-room.'^ *
One of the most remarkable relics of the Romans discovered
at this place was an inscription, now preserved at Goodwood, the
seat of the Duke of Richmond. It was found in 1723, under the
cornrr house on the nortii side of St Martin's Lane, about four
ieet below the surface of the ground, close to the two stone walls
three feet thick, which united in an angle, and probably belonged
to the temple mentioned in the inscription. The stone upon which
it is engraved is of grey Sussex marble, and seems to have been
about six feet long, by two and three quarters broad. The letters
beautifully and exactly drawn, are capitals iVom 2i to 3 inches
long. It is thus read and supplied by Gale :—-
Neptuno et Minervie Templum pro Salute domus divinse et
auctoritate Tiberii Clandii Cogidubni regis legati August! in Bri-
tannia, Collegium fabrorum et qui in eo sodales, de suo dedicave-
runt, donante aream Pudente Pndentini filio.
Aqoth^
* Hist.ofqhich.Sl«,88a(.
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8088fiX. 64
Aoother iMcription was found in a cellar in East Street, very
naar the same spot as the preceding. The stone is of the sama
kind of Snssex marble, the letters of the like size and cnt, and
trery heaatifal. Mr. Gale reads it thus :
Ncroiii
Clandio Dtri CUodii
Aug. F. Oermanici
Cos. Nepoti. Ti. Cm.
Aog. pronepoti. Div. Aug.
Abnepoti. CaBiari. Aug. Germ.
K. R.P. IV.Imp.V. Cos. IV,
SoWi caraTit ▼otaiD merito.
The name of the dedicator is wanting,
William Jcxon^ who, in the 17th centnry attained the highest
statioD in the English ehnrch, was bom in 1582, at Chichester.
He received his education at Merchant Taylors' School in Lon-
don, and St John's College, Oxford, of which he was elected
master in 1621, and a few years afterward executed the office of
vice-chancellor of the University. For some time he applied
himself to the study of the civil law ; bot at the wish of Dr.
Laud, to whom he owed, his subsequent preferments, he directed
his attention to divinity. In 1633, he was nominated to the
Bishopric of Hereford ; but before his consecration was removed
to the see of London. In 16S5, his patron procured his appoint-
ment to the office of lord high treasurer, which gave great um-
brage to the nobility, though it was acknowledged that he exe-
cuted that important Mce with exemplary ability and integrity.
He enjoyed to the last the fiivour of his sovereign, whom he at-
tended on the soaffi>ld. Being soon afterwards deprived of his
bbhopric he retired to a small estate in Gloucestershire, where he
resided till the Restoration, when he was elevated to the archi-
episcopal see of Canterbury, which be enjoyed only three years,
.dying in 1663, in his 81st year. He was a learned man, a pious
%A4 divine.
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divine, a &tlhfal coiuiieIkr« an 09^mj ia «tt p«iiiMaliwi; m
amiable in his maaners, and so inoflbnsiTe in bia U^ tbat ^!e^ in
|be times of intolerant faaatieisp be waa saSMre^ by a eoarteajf
granted to very few, to worship God accosding to tbe dieUles of
his own conscience. *
Thohas Bradwardine, descended from an ancient family
once settled at Bradwardiae, in Hetefordsbire, was bom in or
near Chichester. He was educated at Merton Coll^^e, where
he became a great mathematician, and so learned a divine, that
he was commonly styled Docto^^ Profundus, He was confessor
to Edward III. and in Joly 1349, waa promoted to the see of Can-
terbury, bat died in December following. His work, De Causa
Dei, acquired him considerable celebrity.
The brothers William^ Gborob, and JaBy 8limi» wb)^ at-
tained great eminence as landscape painters, were bom near
Craildlbrd, in Surrey ; but removed so vety yswig to OhkheMer,
where they resided the real of their lives, that Xhx$ havabeea
generally considered as aaltves of thia city. WiBilmi obliiatd
the first preninm oflfered by the Society of Ailis, in Landas, aad
John tiie second. Several of^ theiff peiftcmaaaea wene cpgra^
by WooUett John died in July 1764, aged fcrty-sevea; William
in Sepember, the same year, aged fifly-s^en ; and Geer^a-in 177^
in his 63d year. They are all interred in the chnrch-.yasd af 81
Pancras, Chichester.
William Coluns, whose fame aa a poet tan never die, waa
bom in 1720, in the hoose now occupied by Mr. Masia, pHnr
ter and bookseller. His 6ither, a reputable halter, who sewed
the ofiice of mayor of Chichester in 17A8, in the foUowiag year,
placed his aan at Winchester College, where he was edooated by
Dr. Burton. In 1740, be became a ooilimaaer ef Queen's Col-
lege, Oxford ; but was soon sleeted a ^my of Magdalen CoUegs,
where he remained till he had taken his bachelor's degree. He
quitted the University, where he was distiagaished for genins aad
iadoleace, abeitt 1744, and at the desire of his nateraal andsw
« See BeAQties, Vol. VIII. p. 817.
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|^ift^eittli4 Celooel H«rtiSfe pf %^n, r^prnM of f0«, Uymei
|jp in FUpAden. This p£|oe|i99«l|dimYepi^^u4^teC^U«i«ilp
till oifa yirofessioa 9 Im^. thi* diA npl. ml th^ mUiiilion ^ tlit
IHIir^ vlfiK n^w t8«9e(^ Ms tlw^gto to fcb^ dwii^ji but mm
sj^^ndoued th«k 14^ He capairoA to X^ondov^ '^ a litawry aA-
.iwVinr/' tayi^ Dif. Jofciyioii^ '' wilb qtiiBj pvojoels in kiB Ima^
^ v^ Uttk^ iBOMy i« lu#.iKNlMi^ Ht derignod nuuiy VQdk%
Ipt Mm graik toH^as irrooQliilioB* Se pWwod sete^ tragfli-
^jie^i M be ooly flA|i««d ttiew, I|o. viole> m< «dl tiiaii, oini^
«pd ot^ poeins^ and Hi mvmWtfig, hpweiwlMle.^^ h 1746>
}i^ polUighod hM 04^ d«oeript)fO. wi aUeigoMai; bni the safe
^ tiuB vo4 9ot at all oarra»po»dtot vidi Urn neril, lia i^li^-
l^tly limf^ tho leimaning Offioa la 1T4S, Ub unokdiai
i|li4 left km «!«>«( ^^OOQL ; bqt ^oon aftcv b^.waa attektd vilk
j| 9enrapi» 4wMrd€9r» attoeM. with dopra»iaa of npiritvi vhidi ra-
4af^ him to lihf mat ifeploiaUo. iMalu»o«B, Wlh of body and
jpi^d* Fiw Ito s«al^ 49alh al ta^gA teUevod bin, in 17^^ in
Ilia thirty^^mth yoar^ tto axpited ia tbe booBaof faia akter, Mn.
SeoaptV^ at CiHcAkealer, and vaa interred in St. Aadrow'a cbaidl^
in tbia ^\j. Tba cbaraetei givan of hiai by Dr. Johaaoit* si
liigbly boaAarable lo the meiaory of hia uafioHapale friead.
MlQHVfta7»
^ pqpiiloiia aod toIoRaUy w^ bailt IoVb^ aealod near tfaa river
j^ip^ i^ generaUy considierod aa tbo Milha, or, aa it is wnttaa
ly[ othef aotiQiwioak Ibo Mida of tbo Romaaa. So moob ia oec-
faia, tb»t frem Doaieeday-book it. appaars to bavo boea a ooa-
aidor^te plaoo at the tiiao. ot the Noaaiui Coaqnait Hero ara^
{qt S09IO Ogen aealod oao of the nweroaa branchea oi the iunily
of 9oba% wht took tbo title of banrn horn tbia towa, but met
tbp tt»e of Henry Ylil. the manor heloaged till of late ta the
iMovoe^ Yiaeoiuita Moategaa.
Mittwwt ia a boiongh by preicriptioA, haTing sent aver aiace
4 Edward
* Liret of the StfgKth Poets.
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53 SOStBX.
4 Edwtrd II. two memben to Pftriuu&ent, who are elected hf
the burgage-holden. The bttrgages belonged for many yean
to the ViacouQta Montague^ one of whom caused some of the
hooaea to be taken down to make room for part of the waU eC
Cowdray Park ; and in thU wall placed stones with numerals en-
graved on them to identify the site of the burgages. This cir-
enmstanoe occasioned a late noble Duke (then professing to be a
reformer) to observe^ that " so low was the electnre franchise
fallen, thai at M idhurst the very stones appeared as yoten for
members of Parliament Thia sarcasm, upon investigating -tte
aubject, will be fonnd to have little else than splenetic pleasantry
in it, and to convey no disgrace to the borough of Midhurst in
particular ; for, bold as the assertion may appear to the ears eC
modem rdormers, the right of election in the borough of Mid-
hurst is the only radical right of election sanctioned by the con«i
stittttion. These burgage tenures, about 120 in nuaiber, were
sold by the trustees of the last Viscount Montague, as it is said,
for 40,000 guineas to the Earl of Egremont, who afterwards dis*
posed of them to Lard Carrington, the present owner \ The go-
vernment of the town is vested in a bailiff, chosen annually at
the court^leet of the manor. It has a weekly market on Thmv-
day, and three yearly foirs, on April dth, Whit-Tuesday, and Oc-
tober 29th. The population of the town and parish, in 1801,
amounted (o 1073.
The church, a small tower building of stone, is situated in the
middle of the town. It has nothing remarkable except the burial-
place of the Montague fomily, on the south side near the chan-
cel, in the middle of which is a large rich monument, or rather
pile of monuments, indoaed by iron rails. It consists of a mar-
ble altar-tombi upon which are placed, two full-sized recombent
figures of women in the rich cloaks and dreas of the times, with
rufis round tbeir necks, and their heads resting on pillows ; at
tiie feet of one an unicorn chained, the other being destroyed.
•Round one side of the monument are two men in annour, and two
women
* From a communication of Mr. Ricbard Wstti of Letrei.
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iromeD koeelittg; and on the other one man and two women, but
much mutilated, some without heads, others without limbs. At
each end are splendid coats of arms with innumerable quartering*^
On the top of the altar-tomb is raised another upon three arches,
also of mixed marble curiously gilt and ornamented. Upon this
is the figure of an old man with a formal beard, in rich gilt ar-
mour and cloak kneeling on a cushion before a square altar, round
and below which are inscriptions in Roman capitals, informing
OS that here was interred Anthony Browne Viscount Montacute,
chief standard bearer of England, and Knight of the Garter, with
his two wives. Lady Jane Ratcliife, daughter of Robert, Earl of
Sussex, and Magdalen, daughter of William Lord Dacre. This
nobleman havii^ served the Queens Mary and Elizabeth in various
capacities both civil and military, died at Horsley in Surrey, in
1592, in his 66th year.
Against the south wall is a small marble monument, with two
Corinthian pillars, between which are the kneeling figures of a
man in armour, but without head, and of a woman, which seems
to have been brought hither from some other place. Under the
latter is a long metrical inscription, from which we gather that
the person for whom this memorial was erected was Joan, wife of
fVancis Browne, and that she died in 1584 Above all are the
urns with many quarterinjg;8.
In the Tawn-Hali the quarter-sessions for the county were
formerly held once a year, but that practice is now disused.
The Free Grammar School for twelve boys was founded in 1672
by Gilbert Hannam.
~ On St. Anne's-hill near the town there are strong indications
of an ancient building, supposed to have been the residence of
the Bohuns, once lords of this manor : it has had three fosses,
the lowest of which was formed by the river that runs on the east
side of the hill.
About a quarter of a mile eastward of Midhnrst are situated the
picturesque ruins of Cowdray^kome, once the magnificent seat
t rf
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QO «VS&BX.
^ iii6 ii9^le fMiily oC UoiOiigiia. Timy stand iu a \MUpy between
two i?tU wooded hiila^ oear the iwM «f U»«(. A^ui, wJui;b( riififi
betweea them thvpugh mi extai^iKe fsi^i mfti^wg some, «^
tbe fiaeet ohewMit Ueee in. £iigli(iuL
etoetese of SalielHMry, daiigbt^ 9f Geoi^gj^ Qul^, ol^ Cbuwiief,
wh4 was attoiflled of high treaaoa 31 Heiury V(]p. au^^ t^ y Wil
afterwacde beheaded in tfa? T^wer, at the ^« ^f Mvei^-l^i^
hecauae eertate Mia from Iji^m^ were fonad.vi her mimm h^i;s
aiA it waff thoDgfat tho^. an vunirreotiiin ia Xa^abji?^ had bcmi
oceaaiened tiaooovb i)m m^igiUM of bee aon, G^u^dmL PeJ^
Hei estalea having ia ooaaeqaeiice devolved ia thcr ap^an^ Cof«^
dray waa givett in exehaa^e foK other laa4^. t% tl^ hwra of- Jfelw^
MeviU, Maitqai^ Bloajtagne; and, mp^ Mia divisiim ojT hj^ |^«%>
seesions, fell toLucy^ his fomih daughter who faet aymif^gy
Thowia FitKwittiaQu pf AVlv>aih.e, ia the eqiWiAy of YoiiE. ; and
afkrwaida Sir Aatbony Vr^wo^^ gr^ 4aivtai!4'lr?^^r af Sw-
kad. Her soa. WiUiaia FU^wilU^ffn, Sari of SfatiMMpptoa, ^
the pceacDt oiaaaioa, aa af pea^ by hi^ afiaa aad ^thfr davic^
diaplayed ia its varioua parte,; but dyin^ if^hotit iaflno 3^ Heai^
ViU. thia estate wei4 tp hia avder^al ^roM»e(* Sir Ai^ifimj
BcDWoe, froQi wjkom t^e late poaaeaa<irA Yis^Mmat Me^^jlw:^^ waa
lineally descended. Edward VL ia a letiei; ta iMa 6i6ii^, Fita^
pataricfc, ealls it " a goodly honae of Sir imthoaj B^ffwjff^;
where wa were nuocveloiisly^ yeiivathfir ei|c^v/ely banhett^''
ftwaabailtiathefeanctf a!)aadwigHr^ with, the p^iaoipa^ fi^op^
towards the west, in the centre of whkh was .the,g||te iai^hqi by
ftwtt to«eia. The east aide. ea#taiaed tl# oh^pel. hall, and din^g-
parioiur. The chapel was saperUy fitted up, aiyl had aja altac*^
piafie of pacoUar beauty.. Th^ hatt w«ff dmitated with paiajtiiiga
of arehiteetara by iU>bevt^ ajpd ftatiie^ by Gpope : at the lyffr
end was a buck standing, carved in brown wood, having on the
shoulder a shield with tl^a arma of Eaglapd, aad under il tha
anas of Browne, with maoy f9tf teringtf, carv^ ix^ wood. There
were ten other bucks, as large as life, standing, sitting, aad lying,
9 some
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Digitized by VjOOQ IC *
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SUSSEX. 61
some with ^mall limmiers of arms supported by tlieir feet Thk
hall and stair^case were painted by Pellegrini, with the story df
l*ancred and Clorinda from Tasso. The parlour received its etn-
beHisbmelits from Holbein, or some of his scholars. On the
south of fhe'quaHraiigle was a long gallery, in whibfa Were painteB
the twelve apostles sis large as life ; and on the north side was
another gallery, cOiitaining many whole-length pictures of tlm
family in their proper habits ; likewise four historical pieces, two
copies of Raphael's marriage, Cupid and Psyche, and several old
religious and military paintings from Battle Abbey. The apaft*
ments were all stately, weirfhmishetl and adorned with pictures
by the 'best masters. In the breakfast-room was a cabinet full of
very curious pieces of ivory work, consisting of small and deli-
cate flowers, turned by one of the owners of this house, who used
to amuse himself with such work ; aud in one of the rooms was a
picture representing him at his turning- wheel.
The pictures painted on the walla were preserved during the
civil war in the time of Charles I. by a coat of plaster laid ov^r
tlie stucco ; when one of the officers quartered here, exercising
bis weapon against the wall, broke out from one of the subjects
the head of Henry YIII. which was afterwards replaced.
This beautiful edifice, with most of its valuable contents, was
destroyed by fire in the night of the 24th of September, 1793.
Of this unfortunate accident the following account is given by
Mr. Gough :— " Mrs. Chambers, the housekeeper, who, with the
porter, and one or two mure servants, were the only inliabitanttf
of this spacious mansion, had retired to rest at eleven, her usual
hour, in full confidence tliat all was safe, and not the smallest
light was to be seen. She had scarcely slept an hour, before
she was alarmed by the watchman with the cry of fire in the
north gallery, and immediately saw it in flames, with all its
valuable contents, without the possibility of saving a single ar-
ticle. The inhabitants of Midhurst were soon ready to assist in
great nnmbers ; and no help was wanting to remove the furniture,
pictures, and library, from the three other sides of the quadran-
gle;
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gla; bat ihe finniieM of the materials rendering it impawble to
break down any part to as to stop the progress of the flames,
they qoickly spread to the east of the coort, in which was the
great hall, chapel, and dining-parlonr. These there was oppor-
V tuoity to nnfumish, and to save the altar-piece hy Annigoni;
bnt the^historicai, paintings on the walls of the dining-pailoar
were involved injt^e devastation, and the stnceo on which they
were painted flaked off the walls."
: T^ns.this magnificent mansion was reduced to a pile of mins,
on which the capricious hand of time continues to impress a di-
versity ,of forms, which are moulded by that of nature into the
beautiful and picturesque. The west side of the building con-
tains the most perfect vestiges of its architecture. The opposite
extremity, with the galleries on either side, though more dila-
pidated, retain many traces of their former splendor. Upon the
walls of the dining-pariour remains of the pictures are still visi-
ble; and the windows of the hall and chapel are almost entire.
Within the quadrangle lie the half consumed trunks of some of
the wooden bucks above mentioned. The whole site, coDec-
tively viewed from the heights within the park, exhibits an isH
pressive scene of ruined and deserted grandeur.
. By a singular coincidence, about the same time that this stately
pile was laid in rains, the noble owner was drowned, together with
his fellow-trsiveller, Mr. Burdett, in rasliiy venturing to sail
down the cataracts of the Rhine at Schaffhausen. Being the
last male heir of his ancient family, his estates devolved to his
' only sister, married to William Stephen Poyntz, Esq. who has
erected a new brick house, wivhout any pretensions to elegance,
in the park, about a mile from the old one, for his residence.
! In the parish of South Bbrstead, at the south-east corner of
I the rape of Chichester, is situated Bognor, a place which owes its
existence to the prevailing rage for sea-bathing. So lately as 17b4
it was known only as a resort for smugglers, and consisted merely
•f a few fishermen's huts. About that time tbe late Sir Richsrd,
Uotham
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8U89EX. 6d
Hotham began to make it his summer residence, and was so ireli
pleased urith the situation, that some time aftenrards he bought
a piece of land, on which he erected Bognor Lodge. By subse-
^ent purchases he became the proprietor of the whole site of
the present Tillage, which, with the exception of a few houses,
was bnilt by him. It consists of seyeral rows of elegant brick
structures, but so detached that the place is at least a mile in
length, erected with the professed design of making Bognor
the resort of more select company than is to be found at other
bathing-places. The principal of these ranges of buildings are
the Crescent, in the centre of which the Dome -house, as it is
called, is particularly magnificent; Spencer Terrace, Hotham-
ton-Place, and East-Row. For the accommodation of visitors
here is an hotel, a subscription room, a library, warm sea*bath,
ten or twelve bathing-machines, and a chapel erected at tlie sole
expense of Sir Richard Hotham. Ader his death the property
was sold in lots to different purchasers; but, though many years
have since elapsed, the increase of Bognor, during that interval^
has been very trifliug. This is the more surprising, as every
season brings a greater influx of fiashionable company to this
place.*
At BosHAM, according to Bede, a place environed with woods
and sea, Dicnl, a Scottish monk, had a very small cell for five
or six religions men. In a manuscript history of this place,
drawn
* Sir. Richnrd Hothaio« the fonnder of Bognor, was, earl^ in life, a hat-
ter in the borough of Soothwark, and greatly increased his trade by this de*
vice ; instead of shop-bills, he had his name and business inscribed on pieces
of copper about the siie of a halfpenny, which he distributed all over the
town, and sent to Tarions parts of the kingdom. This durable document
attracted notice, and its whimsical originality induced manj persons to be-
come his- customers. Haring amassed a tolerable fortune, he relin-
quished his business., and engaged in commerce, particularly in the shipping ^
of the East-India Company, and in time acquired a very large property.
He successfully opposed Mr. Thrale at the election for Southwark in 1780,
and was knighted in consequence of presenting an address to his Majesty on
the birth of a prince. Sir Richard died in 1799, and his remains are interred
in South Berstead Church.
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Al 8088KX.
drawn op in ihe seventeenth centnry by Mr. John SoTftii, tt
is said that " the inhabitants of Bosham, deriving their knoir*
ledge from their ancestors, shewed the writer in 1637 the minft
of an outwome foundation near to the ancient parish chnrch,
which they called St. Bede's Chapel, as small in circuit as BeAe
maketh the cell of Dicul there adjoining to lie/'* A small por-
tion of the vicarage-house, which is contiguous to the church-
yard, seems to have formed part of the buildings belonging to
this religious establishment tn the garden is a colossal heaA
tA marble dug out of the church-yard, and conjectured to have
been a Saxon idol. Mr. Hay says ,lhat it goes by the name of
Beavois*s head, though never designed as such ; that its bar-
barous sculpture and want of proportion shew it to be of Germaii
manufacture, and that it appears to have been a Thor, the Jupiter
of the IVigan Saxons.f The short hair round the head is stSI
visible, though the figure has suffered considerably from the vrea^
ther. The church is situated close to an arm of the aea : the
Saxon tower at the west end has been converted into a belfry.
On the right side of the south door, almost close to the entrance,
is a descent to a room arched with stone, about twelve or fourteen,
feet square. The idea of the inhabitants is, that this was the
prison of the religious house here ; but more probably it was the
burial-place of the priors and other principal officers of that esta-
blishment.
At Bosham was bom Herbert de Bosham, who being a
good scholar, was appointed private secretary to Thomas Becket,
Archbishop of Canterbury. Be was the author of several books,
among others, a history of his master's untimely end, of which
he was an eye-witness, but durst not make any resistance for fear
of sharing the same fate. He afterwards went to Italy, where
Pope Alexander III. raised him to the dignity of Bishop of Bene-
vento; and in 1178 to that of cardinal.
In the parish of Boxgrove lies Halnaker'Hi^se, which was
the chief seat of the honour of Robert de Haye, to whom it was
given
* Sir WilliBin Burreirs Conectitms sn the British Maieom.
f History of Cbicbe<tc;r, p. 604^
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gWeti by Tiemj I. and from wbose descendants it iras canied bj
nuuriage . into, tbe fiimily of St. Jobn. In tbe reig^n of Edward
III. it iras transferred in like manner to the family of Poynings ;
and afterwards passed tbro^h tbe bands of tbe Bonriiles to tbe,
Lords de la Warr, by one of wbom it was given, together with .
other possessions in this oounty, to Henry VIII. in exchange
ibr tbe abbey of Wherwell in Hampshire. Halnaker remained
in the Crown till the latter end of Elizabeth's reign, when it was
granted to the Morleys^ who came ont of Suffolk, and attained
considerable eminence here. The last male, h^ir. Sir William
Horley,. who died in 1701, was succeeded in this estate by his
daughter, Mary Countess of Derby; and at her death, in 1752,
it devolved to her cousin. Sir Thomas Ackland, Bart By him
it was sold for 50,0001. to the Duke of Richmond, and is now nn
appendage to bis neighbouring mansion of Goodwood, of which
it was formerly the bead. In this boose, which has been suf-
fered to go to decay, are to be seen two Curfews, as old as the
reign of the Conqueror.
At Boxgrove a priory was founded by Robert de Haye, on
wbom the honour of Halnaker was originally conferred. It was
at first a cell to the convent of Essay in Normandy, and con-
tained only three monks, on whom the founder bestowed all hit
lands itt Boxgrove. William de St. John added ten monks to tbe
establishment ; his brother Robert aqgmented their number with
two more; and their possessions were increased by the benefac-
tions of the^same family. William, the first Earl Warren, is said
to have been a benefactor ; and Gundred, his wife, is reported,
but erroneously, by Dugdale,* to have been buried here. The
whole seems to be a mistake, for William de Albini, Earl of
Arundel, the husband of Queen Adeliza, widow of Henry I.
makes a grant to this priory of exactly the same estate as Earl
Warren is said to have given. Etlward III. naturalized this fonu'-
dation, discharging it from rents, and all other disadvantages to
* Dogdi Bar. I. 74.
Vol. XIV. 2 B which
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wfatch as dieii it ims snbf^ct At tii< UsiiUtidQ it ww talted
al i4dl. lOs. 9d. clear per amiam. U liaa slnoe thaft liflM hiA
the aaae owners aa Halnaker. Some parta of iWa priory are attt
olaa^ngr, an^ kave been btmTerted iata dareHittg^koiiaea: Iml
sevendi old bviUiligs wbicli belonged to it wore palled doihi ik
1780 bj liie late Duke of Rtohnond, ibr tfie purpoao of erediBg
a form-lioiiie on their site.
The priory ohorcii, %hieh has beeooe parocMai, tiioiigli lA
preaeat spaeioas, oMisiaiiog of InLnaepla, aaTo, tw atalea^ aid
three chaiicelsy was f<Maerly nach larger, aa k apparent ftool
the rafna, which shew the nave to hare extended neatly, if AM
f Bite, aa far west of the cross, as it now doea east of it. It eo»-
taina several altar tombs, some onder^pointed arohes,J|bQt withovt
figures or iascriptions. Tradition relates that one of them oorers
the ronudns of Qneen Adeltza, which is not improbable ; for two
of her dangfaters, by the Eart of Amndel, OKvn and Agnllia,
wets intetyed here: OthenI, nndoobtedly, are for Tltomae Lstd
Pdynings, and his lady, Philippa : for by the WiH of thnt noUe*'
man^ bleating date at Halnaker 14%, he be<pieathed hk body to be
hartcd within the choir of the priory of Boxgrove, on the north
part of the tomb of the Lady Philippa, sometime Conntess of
Arandel and Pembroke, his wife, daaghter to* Edmund Mortimer
Earl of March. In the chancel, on the right, is a rich canopied
monument, ornamented with arms, which is conjecUired to have
been for Elizabeth BonTill^, Lady de la Warr, the heiress of
Halnaker. lb the inside, in ancient gold letters, ia litis imper-
fect inscription :
#f four ihsMt pm fot t^ isonto oF €^mm tn aaOMt
SitB CHfSta^ ^ foifi* - » • -
And round one of the pendanMone ornaments is the following i
C^ooM U aabct - - anno Snil fif€€€€€ff^3'
Oa
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Ob Ike wmth pM« of tiie efauuBel is a mml »«siinMiil» m*
ckMed frhh in« nili, witk a long iuflcriplion to the memory of
Sir WHUmh Morley^ IL B. irho married a daogfator of Sir Jola
Poaham, the |ioet» and died ia 1701. Opposite to this, oa the
Berth aide of the ohaacel, is another elegant marble monoment is
ooramemoraftion of Sir Willism^s daughter and heir, who married
Jasies Earl of Derby, whom she snrviTed many years. Thia
lady, who died in ITdH, in her 8dth year, wasremariLsble for her
ohaiily> and is poartrayed oa her monument sitting under an
eal^ reliofing poor tra? ellers, and pomting to a bniiding repra*
aentiBg a hespilal in this perish of her fouadatioB.
Thia hospilsl omisiato of a oentre, in which is a good sdiool*
loom, and on each side a wing contaiaing twelye apartments. It
was built and eadowad ia 1741, as the inscription apoa it infimBa
as t'^*' the alms^hoBses ibr the habitatioB and support of poor
aged and infirm womeB«--the school fi>r the habitation and main*
lenaace of a sehooUnutor; and for the edacation of poor hoya
Mid giila-f-«th0 women and children to be chosen ont of the pe^
rishes of BozgWHTO, East Levant, and Tangmere/'
Easbbourvb, about a mile north of Midhurst, was formerly ^
amilceti'towa. Here was a smaU oooTent of Benedictine uims,
fonad^ by John Bofaao, of Midhurst, and vaiaed, at the supprss*
sioB, at 471. 3s. per aaaom.
In the chancel of the parish church which belonged to the
aanaery is aa ancient monaniBnt without inscription, on which
19 tb^ igace of a man ia armour, in a recambeat posture, with a
aelar of fift. Tradition relates that it was erected for Sir David
Owoa, a aatanl son of King Eeary YIII. who married an heiresa
of the Bohim fasHly, formerly lords of Midhurst This raona«>
meat is on the north side close to the communion rails. The
coat of mail is sem^ of lions rampant It is certain that by the
will of Sir David Owen, as proved in 1542, he bequeathed his
body to be buried in the priory church of ibis place after the de-
gree of a banneret
J» tfio parish of Habtino is Up Park, which, in the seven-
2B2 teentlL
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w timsEx.
teetitb eentary, was the residence of Ford Gtey, Esq; who pdM
down tbe old hoose, and erected the present magnifieiBBt seat^
He was raised by King William ilL to the dignity of Eirtof
Tankerrille, and left an oaly daughter. This bdy, in 1695,
was nnited to Charles Bennett Lord Osstdston,* on whom the
title of bis &ther-in-*law was afterwards conferred. By hia sao-
oessor this mansion and park, with the manon of Sooth and East
Harting, were sold, in 1746, to Sir Matthew Feathenrton far
19,0001. ; the wood in the park being computed worth the whale-
money. Sir Matthew was tbe son of Mr. Featherslonhaagh, a
wtoe merchant in London, and having had a large estate left to
him by Sir Henry Featherston, to whom he was very distsntiy,
if at all, related, he assnnied bis name, was, in 1747, created a
baronet; and was sacceeded in 1774 by his son. Sir Henry.
Latfyholt Hou$€ and Park formerly belonged to the CaryHs;
hvt Lord Caryll by bis adherence to James II. forfeited this
estate, which was granted by William III. to Lord Cntts ; hot at
the particular request of the exiled monarch it was restored to the
Caryll ftmily on the payment of 10,00(H. to the new proprietor*
The estate was in the sequel sold to the Duke of Richmond, who,
l^fore the purchase was completed, assigned over his right Uf
Sir Matthew Featherstoo, Bart, and from him it descended, with
Up Park, to his sod and successor. The house has been snfiered
to go to decay.
Near East Latamt is Goodwood, the magnificent seat of
the Dnke of Richmond^ agreeably situated in a spacious park,
and commanding an exteusiye and delightful prospect. This
manaion and estate formerly belonged to the noble femily of
Percy ; but being purchased by the grandfather of the present
Duke
* '* At the time of this lunrriage aguvua^nenijor S0«; and there being but
fuar bells atHarting, he first gave the ringers four guineas, and then dipping
h\% hand into his pocket, broaght up thirty-six more, and gave to the rector,
(Mr. Tench, ) who, as so'-n as the new-married couple were gone, saidf Pox
take his little hhnd ! if it was as h\^ asrame Iblls* Iiands, it might ha^ebrcmgbt
op ss man^ again." iiir WiUlam Burreir^ A/5. CcUeetioiiH
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Dnke of * Richmoiid, he pulled down the old Gothic structure,
and on its rite erected a new building for a hnnting-seat To
this edifice the late Duke made great additions, under the di-
rection of Mr. James Wyatt, which are still in an unfinished
state. The principal front and the west wing are new. The
former, which faces the sooth, is only one story high, having at
each end a circular tower of two stories, crowned with a low
dome. The centre is adorned with a portico of six Ionic columns
of Portland stone, which support another of the same number of
Doric pillars, surmounted by a ballastrade. Each of the wingti,
which foni\ obtuse angles with the front, has also a circular tower
at its extremity. On the ground-fioor of the front, on the eatft
side, is the drawing-room, about 58 feet by 36 ^ and on the west
the dining-room, about 40 feet in length. The lower part of the
whole of the east wing wilt be occupied by the picture gallery.
The old house, which now forms only the west wing, is a pl^in
edifice of Portland stone, with a pediment in the centre. All the
new part of this mansion is built of small flints collected firom
the South Downs, which have this superiority over Portland
stone, that the longer they are exposed to the air the whiter
they become.
The stables and offices westward of the house, and perhaps
rather too near to it, are a handsome quadrangular building, infe-
rior to few, if any, in the kingdom. The kenoel which tlie late
Dnke built for his hounds also exceeds in magnificence and con-
veniences of every kind, even to luxury, any structure perhaps
ever raised before for the reception of such tenants.
The gardens, at som^ distance from the house, are extensive,
and laid out with great judgment; and adjoining to them is a
magnificent tennis-court The park comprehends 2000 acres*
At the upper end of it is a beautiful pleasure-house called Caimey
seat, erected with materials formerly composing the tower of
Hoove church, an elegant structure of Caen stone, on the M
4>f which they were purchased and applied to this purpose by a
former propjrietor of Goodwood. Being built on a rising ground^
2 B 9 it
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it oomnumdi a magnificeBi Yiew, embmeiiig tlM whok ItmI vf
plain beneath^ tbe projectioiiB and reeetMt 9f tke coast, from
Brighton to the harbovn of PorlMnoatii aad BootiiMiipioap and a
conaidenibie extent of country northward of the Downs.
On a hill adjoining to tbe park> tbe late Dnko formed aa eaMd-
lent race-coone. The races are generally held late in Aprils or
#arly ia May; and last two or three days.
Among the coriosities of Goodwood^ the lion, oanrcd in wood,
which adorned the bead of Commodore Anson's ship the Ceota*
riou, during bis circnmnaTigation of the globe, mast not be omit-
ted. It is set np against the Dnke of Richmond las, on a stone
pedestal, with the foUowisg inscription t
Stay traveUer twhile and view, one who has (raTcU'd more than yoa#
Quite roond the globe ; in eech degree, Ansoo and I have plowed the tea'i
' Turrid and frigid .zonei have past, and safe ashore arriv'd at lasl;
III eaie and dignity appear ; He in the House of Lerds-^I bete.
In the parish of Ltnchmerb, about four milea north of Mid-
hurst, was Shelbred Priory for Black Canons^ the ionndatioa
of which is ascribed to Sir Ralph de Ardern, and which^ at tbe
Dissolotion, was valued at 72L Ids. lOd. Of this priory eoast-
deraUe remains still exist; ibr, having been converted, soon nAff
the suppression, into a ftrm-honse, it thos escaped the fiite of
saany of our monastic establishments. The entrance is throitgh
a large door-way, which opens into a passage leading into the
oommon-haH. On each side of the passage are several gloomy
cells, the ceiling arched with iateiseeting angles of aneieat work-
manship. Hence a flight of taasmve stone st^, won with i^
kads through a dark vaalted passage to the rooms above'; one
Of which, traditioa says, the prior'^» claims some notiee. The
walls of this room were ornamented by some hnnKNuons SMok
with paintings in fresco, but executed in a homely style. They
are now nearly defiiced ; yet tbe remains exhibit figores in the
dress of ancient times, coantry amnsements« a view of the prioiy*
nnd« upon a sqnare tablet^ the following ladicrons r^presentatien
e of
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of tto iMrtiTity of Omr 9»viowr under this inscriptioo : Ecc^ virgo
cancipiet et parietjilitim, et vocabitur nomen Je^u». Uj^p ^aaoft
«tMi4a lira oock w iu tbe act of eiowing. From hii benk th^e is
a labels with tbes^ words : Christw mUus est. Next com^ »
intkj from whose bill issues another label, inseribed QuqndQ P
qi$anido P which ia in like manner answered by a raven : In Anc
taocte. A cow bellows : Ubi P ubi ? And, lastly, a lamb seems
to bleat out ; Jn BetUehem, In the same room, in the centre of
the wall, are the arms and motto of King James I. ; and near the
door three women in the dress of Queen Elizabeth's time; beyond
which are two birds fighting with sword and buckler, over a kind
of perspective view of some buildings supposed to represent the
priory.
About a mile from Sbelbred Priory was till lately standing a
ruined edifice, commonly called Fordley, but more properly
. Verdley Cattle, respecting which Grose says, that after a most
diligent search in every book, where an account of it might be
expected, not even the slightest information could be obtained *•
jOne tradition reported it to have been a castle demolished in an
invasion of the Danes, while another made it a road-house, at-
tached to the nunnery of Easeboume : but the author just quoted
has shewn the great improbability of both these stories. According
to the most plansible conjecture, it must have been a grange be-
longing to the monks of Shelbred« It was a quadrangular build-
ing nearly twice as long as broad, measuring on the outside
thirty •three feet by sixty-eight. The parts lately standing were
the westernmost end with small returns on the north and south
si4es. Near Uie door were some slight traces of a narrow wind*
ing stair-case ; and the walls were about five feet and a half thick.
This ruin, situated in the manor of Verdley, the property of tbe
late Viscount Montague, devolved with the rest of his estates to
W. S. Poyntz, Esq. whose steward about three years since to-
tally demolished it with the intentionof applying the stones to
SB 4 the
* Grose's Antiq. VIII. 135.
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72 8I780BX.
the repair of the rottib; but no use whatever haa yet bees made of
theae materials.
Near the village of Racton, on the borders of Hampafaire,
about eight miiea north*weat of Chichester is Stamtead Htmse,
the elegant seat formerly of the Earl of ScariKHrough, and af-
terwards of the late Earl of Haliiax. Some time afler the
decease of the latter it was in 1781 pot up to sale in CHtao-
eery, together with the rest of his l<»dship's Sosaex estates,
and sold for 102,5001. to the late Richard Barwdl, Esq. who had
accnmnlated a very large fortune in the service of the East India
Company. Since his death it has become by purchase the pro-
perty of Lewis Way^ Esq.
Stanstead enjoys one of the most delightful situations io the
kingdom ; the windows of the mansion commanding a complete
view of Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight, and the shipping at
Spithead, together with an extensive prospect of the sea. The
house is of bnck. The principal ffont looks towards the west,
and consists of a centre, a quadrangular building, connected with
the two wings by a low open colonnade, of the Ionic order. In
the middle of the centre building is a balcony, supported by two
stages of Ionic columns ; and on the top is a small observatory,
crowned with a cupola. The wings are handsome quadrangular
edifices, adorned with a pediment in the middle- of each side, and
are also surmounted by light open cupolas.
Stanstead had formerly two parks, one of which has been con-
Terted into forms. The present pari^ comprehends €S0 acres, ex-
clusively of the forest, a tract of 960 acres, where the lord of the
manor has a right of inclosing the land for twenty-one years, on
clearing it of timber, and the tenants have at other times a right
of common. ' Tbis tract is now a fine nursery of young timber,
the greater part of it having been replanted with oak. It is a
remarkable circumstance, that the spring after the acorns were
planted, it was discovered that the mice had eaten holes in the
greatest part of the seed ; sttU the trees grew up, and few, if any,
p{ then) fiuled.
Slimdoh
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W94nx. 75
8LINDON iras formerly disHnginslied as one of tbe restdencea
of the archbishops of Canterbury, it having been an appendage to
Pageham, granted to the see by King Ceadwalla, in 680.
In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the hm'ily of Kempe obtained
a seat in this parish. The last of thik family died in 17SS, and
his daughter and co-heir carried this estate by marriage to the
Earl of Ne^burgh, whose son and successor is the present pro-
prietor of Siindon, where he resides. This nobleman is a lineal
•descendant from the unfortunate Earl of Derwentwater^ with
whose history every reader is acquainted. This noble old man-
rion is delightfully and boldly situated at the upper end of a well
wooded park, on a fine eminence, which commands a magnificent
view of ihe sea to the south, and of Chichester cathedral, and
other interesting objects. The entrance opens into a handsome
•hall, with a gallery over one end. The decorations are principally
modern; the walls stuccoed, and the ceiiipg richly wrought with
flowers. Over the doors are the arms of Kempe and of the pre*
Bent fiimily. The library is a plain square room, in which are
a few portraits : of the second Lord Derwentwater, who was be-
headed ; of his mother. Lady Mary Tudor, natural daughter of
Charles II. ; of some of the Kempes, by Sir Peter Leiy ; of Lord
Newburgh and his brother, and of Charles II. in bis robes. The
chapel up stairs is arohed over, and has a rich altar, over which
is a fine picture of Christ taken from the cross ; and on each
side paintings of St Peler and St. Paul. Here also are all the
decorations proper for mass. The style of building of the front
of this house seems to be that of Elizabeth, or James I. to which
Lord Newburgh has been attentive in his additions and altera-
tions.
The island, or more properly peninsula, of Selsea, is a consi-
derable flat tract of land, about six miles south of Chichester, which
runs far into the sea, so as to be surrounded at high water on
aH sides but the west, having a ferry a little below Sidlesharo,
and a good road at low water, with a small bridge across the nar-
ftow stream.
This
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u
Tkk plac# is ranaifcable^ m haTiog keen «iginU]F Mf
pal fee. After its removal to Chichester, the bishop
to have a mansioii and park here, no traces of which are now left;
hot at the begioning of Elixabeth's re^a, by virtue of an set eoi-
poweriDg the qaeen to take into her heads certain of the tevpeisl
possessions of any see that should become vacant, awking cssi*
pensation for the same, with paisonages impi^iate and tithei^
Seises, with seven other manors, was separated from the estates
belonging to the bishops. The present lord of the manor is Loid
Sdsea*
The chorch is sitoated at the north-east corner of the penne
snla, near two miles from the vilkge. It is an ancient building,
and appears to have once been larger than at present At the
west end are some mine, which are said to have formed part of
a tow^ begun some years ago; but the design was relinquished.
In the middle aisle are several ancient coffin-shaped atonei^ two
of which have crosses, or pilgrims' staves, upon them.
Near the church-yard are the marks of some place cf defaaec
thrown up in a semicirculsr farm.
Here also was the first monastery founded in this coua^, the
charier of which was given by Adelwalcb, King of Sussex, to
Wiifrid, and iaclnded the whole peninsula, with part of the hun-
dred of Manwode. This monastery, for canons regular, was dedi^
cated to St Peter, and was erected on the south-east side, and
centiguotts to the spot where the parish church now stands. The
remains of this building, and of the adjoining city, says Ca«idei|»
'* are visible at low water, the sea having here encrosched con-
siderably upon the land." About a mile and half out at sea
there are several places having either rocks, or the ruins of
buildings, under water. The best anchoring off the island is to
this day called The Park; and the rocks between the islands
and the shoals farther out bear the name of The SireH^
where a tomb-stone with an inscription is said to have been a few
years since picked up by some fishomen \
At
* Hay's Hirt.ofChieheftcf.
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76
At Tmcmml, netr Midhurst, Thomas OtWay tiie poet mm
borii in 1641. His father wiis rector of WoolMing. He v^
4seiTed hie education at W]f keham School^ aear Wineheeter^ and
finished hi» studies in Christ Church College, Oxford. Ob ipaU
ting the University, after the death of his father he repaired to
London, and commenced actor^ hut was not successful in that
profession. He was more valued for the sprightliness of his con*
▼ersatioi), and the acuteuess of his wit» which gained him the
friendship of the Earl of Plymooth, who procured him a comets
commission in the troops then serving in Flanderft. Dislifciiig
the army, he soon returned to London, and had reoonne to wri^
ing Tor the stage, the only employment for which Nature seems to
have fitted him. In tragedy in particular &w of our English poete
liave equalled hin, and his plays were received with the greatest
applause. Want of economy, however, plunged hin info inces-
sant distress, and at last he died miserably in a public-house on
Tower Hill, in 1685. It has been said that downright hunger
compelling him to fall too eagerly upon a piece of breads of which
he had been some time in want, the first mouthful choked htm, and
put a period to his life.
In the parish of West Dean is Caamon House, the new ho3t^
and yet unfinished^ seat of Lord Selsea, who holds this estote by
lease from the dean and chapter of Chichester, whence probably
tt derived ito name. The honse is situated on the east side of
the church-yard, from which it is shut out by a skr^n of ev^-
gtMOs and forest-trees. The grounds have been much improved
ky jndietOBs planting. About dOO yards in front of the mansion
runs the little stream called the Lavant, which, though dignified
«ith the nasM of a river, is firequently without waler.
THE RAPE OF ARUNDEL.
The n^ of Arundel^ eontaining fiv« hundreds and fifty-sit
farishes, twenty^one of which are in the Vpper^ and thirty-five
in
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76 ftossBX.
. in the Lower DWisioo, extends, like all the other npee^
the county Iiobi north to south, being bounded on the east by
that of Bramber, on the west by Chichester, on the north by Sor*
rey, and on the south by the English ChanaeL
Arundel,
the principal town in this rape, to which it gives name, is plea-
eantly situated on the declivity of a commanding hill on the
north-west bank of the Amu. It consistB of two principal
streets, one of which runs north and south, and the other west-
.ward from their common centre ; and, according to the enumerar
tion of 1801, then contained 334 houses, and 1855 inhabitants.
Here are two weekly markets, on Wednesday and Saturday ; and
annual fairs on May 14th, August 21 st, and December 17th, chiefly
for cattle.
This town was incorporated by Queen Elizabeth, and is go-
verned by a mayor, twelve burgesses, a sleward, and other officers.
The mayor, chosen yearly at the court leet of the lord of the
manor, b also a justice of the peace in the borough ; and no wri^
even from the courts of Westminster, can be executed within his
jurisdiction, till it has been indorsed by him. Arundel b a
borough by prescription, and ever since 30 Edward I. has sent
two memberH to Parliament, chosen by the inhabitants paying scot
and lot.
On the north-east side of the town stands the celebrated Castle,
which was a place of great fome and strength in the earliest
periods of English history, though it is uncertain at what time^
or by whom, it was erected. The first mention made of Arun-
del occurs in the will of King Alfred, by whom it was be-
queathed, with the castle, to his nephew Adhelm, whence this
edifice is supposed to have been built during the reign of that
monarch, or not long before. That Bevis was the founder of
this castle is a current opinion, handed down by tradition ; and
here is still a tower known by the name of Bevis Tower, which
t is
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SUMSXi 77*
is reported to hare been his apartment " Bevis," aays GiU
pin, '' was a giant of ancient times, whose prowess was equal
to his size. He was able to wade the channel of the sea to the
Isle of Wight, and frequently did it for his amusement Great;
however, as Bevis was, he condescended to be warder at the gate
of the Earls of Anmdel, who built this tower for his reception,
apd supplied him with two hogsheads of beer every week, a whole
ox, and a proportional quantity of bread and mustard* It is true,
the dimensions of the tower are only proportioned to a man of
moderate size ^ but such an inconsistence is nothing when opposed
to the traditions of a country/'*
So much, however, is certain, that soon after the Norman Con-
quest, this castle was given by William I. to his kinsman Roger de
Montgomery, whom he at the same time created Earl of Arundel
and Shrewsbury ; but he took his title from this place, where he
resided, though he was under that title Earl of Sussex and Chi-
ch$ster» There were three Earls of Arundel of this family,
Roger^ Hugh, and his brotiier Robert de Bu]lesme who was de-
prived of all his hoDours, and outlawed by Henry I. for taking
part with his elder brother Robert,- who preferred a claim to the
English throue ; on which the king settled the Castle of Arun«
del on his second queen Adeliza, in part of her dower. After
the king's death she married William de Albini, who is described
as one of the most accomplished men of his age. It is related
that, before his marriage, the queen of France, a woman of great
beauty, being then a widow, caused a tournament to be pro-
claimed throughout her dominions. On this occasion Albiui re-
paired to Paris, and bore away the palm from all his competitors.
The queen, struck with the prowess and person of the champion,
invited him to an entertainment; and, having presented him with
some jewels of great value, made him an offer of her hand.
Having already engaged his word to Adeiiza, he declined this
splendid match, on which the queen, as we are told, to revenge
the disappointment, ordered him to be shut up in a lion's den,
where
* ObaerTBtJoiu on tlie CoajU of Hajop«hire, Sussex , and Ken^ p^ 9fl.
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'78 SVflBBX.
wkere tbe andaviited Albiai, thnwlbg bis huoA into the mmrik of
the IbmidaUe bmte, palled op his UMigae by the roots. Prom this
action he is said to have acquired tbe i^ipeUatimi of WiUiaai wiih
the Strong Htmd.
AniQdel Castle was the first hospitable mansion which lo-
eeiyed the Empress Mand^ when she landed in Englsod to dis-
pute her datms with Stephen. It was at that time the seat sf
the beaotiful Adeliza, relict of Henry I. This lady bearing of
Maud's landing at Portsmonth gave her a friendly invitation,
whidi was accepted. The vigilant Stephen, soon apprised of her
motions, appeared suddenly before ttie castle with a weii-ap*
pointed army. The dowager-qneen sent him this spirited mes-
sage ; she had received the empress ss her friend, not as hia
enemy ; she had no intentioa of interfcring in the qnarrsb m
which that lady was engaged ; and therefore begged the king la
allow her royal guest to quit Amndel, and try her fortme ia
some other part of England. ^ Bat/' added she, ** if yon are
deterauned to besiege her here, I will endare tbe last extreoHty
of war rather thsa give her op, or saflfer the laws of hospitsKty
to be violated.^' Stephen, who vrss as generous as he was brave»
granted Adeliza's request, and the empress retired to Bristol.
In the family of Albint this castle continued till tbe death of
Hugh, the last mate heir in 1343, when bis estates w&e ^vided
among his four sisters. By this partition the castle and manor
of Arundel w^ to Isabel, wife of John Fitz-Alan, Lord of dun,
wlio made this place his residence, and assumed the title of Eail
of Arundel. Edmund, the fourth in descent from him, having
joined the barons who had taken up arms to oblige Edward IL
to dismiss his ftivouriteB, the Despeusers, was made prisoner at
Hereford, and there beheaded. His honour and estates were thus
forfeited to the Crown ; and the Castle of Arundel was granted to
Edmund of Woodstodc, uude to tbe king : but about two years
afterwards, the attainder being reversed by Edward III. it was
surrendered to Richard Fitz-Alan, son of the former possessor.
It was Richard, the next ear/, who was accused of plotting at
thia
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ffimphM^liMi hi* bMtW, titt AfohbUlMp of CaiHeibarjr, tt«
Bolre ofCMoueeBter, th« Ivls ^ Berby and Warwkk, the Kwl
If arBhil, Us Mb itt^^air, the Abbot cff Sk Alhea^ and the piier
4if WefltttiAster, to eeiie the pefsen of King Riehard II. and to
pat to death aM the l^ids of hift eemicll. These iateiitioiis^ eilliep
ffeal Of imputed^ were dieeovered to lihe king by the Eari Mar«
$hal. The Earl at Aniftdel wan^ hi eom^qaenee^ itapeaehed of
high IfettOtt, and the royal iafltteiioe waa exerted with eaeh ane^
ceaa over the jadges, tiiat he ivas foaad gvilty aad beheaded.
pMiitart aaya, that the liteg ivaa present at the execatioa of this
aoUeami. Another histerlaB adds, that the speclftole remained
to deeply inprinted on bis mind, that hia sleep was intermpted
by dreams ^representing to him the Earteovered with bloody and
vpbnddlng him with his injuslioe. A ramonr prevailed that se^^^
Teral miracies were wrought at his tomb, aad that his head
was mhracnlonsly rejoined to his body. To eemteract this notion,
tiie king ordered the eerpse to be taken np and exposed for ten
sneoessiye days to public view. Still it was not possible to emw
the peoj^e of their prepossessions, and the Eari passed for a
martyr. Nothing indeed oobM be more unpopular than the exe>
cutiott of this nobleman, who possessed many vakHd>le qualities,
had served with great sneeess against the enemy, and always as.
sorted the liberties of the people, by whom he was mueh be-
lored. a
' The estates of this unfbitunate nobleman were oonfiscated, and
given to Ifie Eari Marshal, on whose testimony he had been con-
vitted. flis son, Thomas FitK*A1an, was thus deprived of the
paternal possesstens and honoars, in which, however, he was re-
instated by Hefny TV. who reversed his lather's attainder. On
the death of this nobleman without tsane, in 1415, this castle de-
waived to his ooasin. Sir John Fitz-Alan, commonly called Sir
Jaffan Arundel, who presented a petition to Pftriiament, requiring
that he might be accepted there in liis proper place, and in all
poMic councils, as his ancestors. Earls of Arundel, had been.
When this petition was read, John Mowbray, Bake of Norfolk
also
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•kolaid<5kinitotiie€ftitteand hoBovrof Anuidel; biiljii4gmeiii
wag given in &voiir of Filz-Alaa. Upon this decision an Act of
PurliameDt was passed, 2 Henry VI. establishing this point, that
the posseasion of this castle and honour conferred the dignity
of Earl withoot creation, a privilege not enioyed by any other
place in the kingdom. The last male heir of the Fitz-Alans
died 22 Eiizidieth, leaving an only daughter, who, marrying Tho-
mas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, carried the earldom and estate into
that lamily, in which they are still vested.
Daring the civil wsis of the 17th century Arundel Castle did
not answer the expectatiens that were formed of its strength and
situation. It had been in the hands of the Parliament from the
beginning of the war, and was esteemed one of their principal
bulwarks in those parts. About the end of 1643^ Lord Hoptoa,
with a view to compensate an unsuccessful summer, brought his
forces suddenly before it, and reduced it on the first summons;
but in less than two mouths Sir William Waller retook it ss
suddenly. In neither siege its strength was tried ; the garrison
in each instance was intimidated. At the latter surrender
Waller found in it the learned Chillingworth, who, being of the
royal party, had taken refuge there. The fatigues he had under-
gone, and the usage he met with from the conquering troops cost
him his life.
From this period Arundel Castle continued little better tLan
a mass of ruins, till the present Duke of Norfolk undertook to
restore it to its ancient magnificence. His grace demolished a
considerable portion of the -o}d struclure, in order to carry into
effect an elegant plan which be has adopted. From the part al-
ready commenced, it appeara to be his intention to form the edi-
fice into a quadrangle, two sides of which are nearly completed.
The order is Gothic, ornamented in the most delicate manner;
the building of free-stone brought from the quarries, near Whitby
in Yorkshire ; and stones of a brown cast were carefully -selected
that they might assimilate in colour with the remains of the an-
cient fabric. la the range already finished, containing the prin«
cipal
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tipd entrance, the groond-floor is entirely dedicated to domestic
and culinary apartments. Above is a small temporary library,
the door, linings of the windows, and other architectural oma^
ments of which are of the finest mahogany, beautifully carred, and
highly polished. Adjoining to it is an anti<^rawing-room, oma*
mented with mahogany in the same style as the library, with
which alt the principal apartments correspond. In this room is a
fine. painting of the Nativity by Mnrillo, and a superb statuary
marble chimney-piece, exquisitely carved.
The principal drawing-room is intended to be hung with rich
tapestry, or paper-hangi:)gs. On the walls are several curious
ancient paintings of the Howard family ; and two by Hogarth,
the one a scene in Covent Garden, the other a view of the old
CasUe, with portraits of the family. What was formerly the
chqiel has been converted into the dining-room : at one end is a
large window of painted glass, executed by Egginton, repre*
seating tlie present duke and duchess, in the characters of King
Solomon and the Queen of Sbeba at a banquet At the opposite
end of the room is an orchestra ; and over the door is the subject
of Adam and Eve in Paradise, attempted by Le Brun, in imitation
of basso relievo ; the execution is deemed excellent, but the situa-
tion is injudiciously chosen.
At the end of an extensive gallery, which divides these apart*
ments from a range of bed-chambers, is another stained window
by the same ai*tist. In the centre is a portrait of the late John
Charles Brooke, Esq. Somerset Herald and Secretary to the
Duke, as Earl Marshal : below it are his arms, and above those of
the Norfolk family «.
This is the only part of the building sufficiently advanced to
admit of any description, and indeed even this is in so unfinished
» state as to afford a very faint idea of what is intended. A
Vol. XIV. 2C second
41 Mr. Brooke was one of the unfortunate persons who lost tbeir livci by
Ibe prossure of the crowd attbe Litile TheaUe in the Hay market, on the 9d
at February 1794. '
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second tide of the quadrangle is to be occupied by the Ubnury, in
which is to be placed Lawrence's ^unous painting of Satan call*
%ng his legions ; a third will be dedicated to the chapel ; and the
fourth to ?anoo8 domestic <^ces.
Those who have been in the habits of visiting the Royal Aca-
'demy, and who have noticed the numerpus paintings and designs
intended to pfomote the spleudonr of this p»siMtfflti> may fan
some notion of the magnificence which Amndd Castlo will oas
day boast. It is no trifling compliment to the noUe owner to
add^ that the arrangements throughout have been formed entirely
from his own ideas, and that he has been exdnsively his own
architect.
Of the ancient ruins, the only parts remaining are some of the
walls and thekeep, the ascent lo which is by a staircase nearly
demolished, and over a nanow pass commanding the entrance to
the castle. The keep is a circular tower of massive stone ; this
place, which was once the resort of warriors, is at present a cage
for owls. In the centre of it is the entrance to a snbterFsneoss
passage now walled up ; it has once or twice been attempted to be
explored without success ; but it is supposed to have been an out-
let for the garrison when hard pressed, or to have commanicated
with the principal apartments, in order to afford the means of
•escape from tbem. The owls, which are here kep^ were a pre-
sent to the Duke from North America; and they ace nncomsMnly
elegant creatures, and extremely large, some measuring across
the wings, when extended, from eight to ten feet: thdr plumage
is particularly beautiful, and their eyes remarkably brilliant.
Strangers are allowed to inspect the interior of the castle on the
irst Sunday in every month, and the exterior on Tuesdays and
Thursdays only.
Arundel Castie stands high. Its foundation is a steep ciroohr
-knoll, efiected partly by nature and partly by art. The countiy
towards the sea is low and flat, and the castle commands a vi^
over it as far as tbe Isle of Wight. It is supposed that tbosea
Sn^ washed the very waUs of this edifice^ near which anchors and
otber
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oUmt marine implemeBte haye been fennel. The peri^ Wongiu|[
to it ia finely wooded^ yery extenaiye* and embraeea a great y^h
riety of pietnregqne sitnationa and acenery.
The Church, dedicated to St. Nicholaa, ia aituated at th«
northern extremity of the town. It belonged originally to a
priory of Benedictinea^ or Black Friars, anbject to the Abbey of
Seez, in Normandy, founded, aa it ia conjectured, aoon after the
Conquest, by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of AmndeL It con*
riatedof n prior and three or feur monks, till Richard II. in hia
third year, gtwted his licence to Richard Fit^-Alan, Eali of
Anndel, to extinguiah the priory, and to found a chantry, or ooU
lege in the church, for the mainteniuiceof a master and tweWa
aecular canons, with other officers. Upon thia change it was
atyled the College, of the Holy Trinity, and waa endowed at tho^
Snppresaion with a yearly revenue of 2631. I4b. 9d.
This church is a handsome Gothic structure, with traaaepts,
from the centre of which rises a low square tower, surmounted
with a small paltry wooden spire. It contains some monuments
of the Earls of Arundel ; and among them one of alabaster
more magnificent than the rest, under which, in the middle of the
choir are interred Thomas Fitz-Alan, Eari of Arundel, and Bea-
' trix, his wife, daughter of John, King f^ Portugal. Many of the
Howards are also buried here ; but the chapel, which has aerved
fer agea as the burial-place of the noble owners of the castle, is in
amhioua state, and the glass of the windows in great part de-
molished.
In the chancel are numerous figures in braaa, epitapha in obao«
lete Latin, and monkish yerses, for the maaters and fellows of the
college, and some of the principal aervants of the Earls of thii'
territory, which have no other merit than their antiquity.
Southward of the church is a range of buildinga which aeem to
haye been erected on the mina of aome ancient structure. The
front, though in the Gothic style^ is eyidently only a modem imi«
tation; but two buttresses at the north end, which la need as a
Roman Catholic chapel, and one at the south, appear to be relica
ac2 ^
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84
strssE.Y.
of »om« edifice of considerable antiquity ; perhaps the babitaiiOfr
of the canons, for whom the church vras made Ciillefiriate.
Besides this religions institution, Arundel had, before the
Reformation, a hospital called Maison Dieu, founded in the lime
of Richard II. by Thomas Fitz-Alan and Beatrix, his wife, for the'
maintenance of as many poor as the revenues with which it was
endowed would support. These, at the Dissolution, were valued
at 421. 3s. 8d. per annum.
Arundel has a small but neat Theatre, and a stone Bridge of
three arches over the Anin. Though not a place of much trade,
it contains a great number of good houses ; many of those be-
longing to the Duke of Norfolk have been rebuilt in the Gothic
castellated style.
Petwoeth,
another mark it- town, about twelve miles north of Arundel, is
seated on a small branch of the Arun, in a situation that is con-
sidered remarkably salubrious. The houses are in general well
built, but the streets are very irregular. The town and parish
were foaud in 1801 to comprehend 396 houses, and 2264 inha-
bitants. The weekly market, ou Saturday, is well supplied ;
and there are two annual fairs, on Holy Thursday for honied
cattle, and November the 20tli for sheep and hogs.
In the church, which is built of stone, and has a square tower,
are interred the remains of many of the Percies, Earls of Nor-
thumberland : but the chapel, which served for their burial-place,
as it now does for that of the Egreinont family, has no monu-
ments worthy of notice, except two very aucient tombs, the one
completely defaced, the other having the headless effigies of a
man in armour kneeliug upon it, and that of a woman opposite to
him in the same posture. In a recess in tlic chancel is a piec^of
sculpture given by Lord Egremout. It is of white marble, and
represents a woman, supporting the naked figure of a man with a
beard, upon her knees and her left arm. T4ie execution has no
claims to the character of excellenctr; and since the erection of this
gronpe
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sussu. 95
f^ape in its present ffituatioii the figures have beep wilfully mu-
tilated by mischieTous persons. In the gallery is a bandionie
organ, which cost dOOL the gift of the Earl of Egremont, erected
in 1812. The living is one of the richest rectories in the county,
being worth upwards of 17001. a year.
In the centre of the town is a very handsome Market-home
of stone, adorned at one end with a bust of William III. This
edifice was erected about twenty*five years since by the Earl of
Egremont. The lower part consists of piazzas, with an open space
for the market, above which is the room where the quarter-ses-
sions are held.
Close to the church-yard is the Charity School for the edu-
cation of twenty boys, and the same number of girls, founded
by the Rev, Mr. Taylor, late of Winton College, who also left
donations of twelve pounds a year each to two clergymen's wi-
dows of the neighbourhood ; and six pounds each to two poor
tradesmen to assist them in business.
The Alms'-houses, founded by the Duchess of Somerset, are
an old brick buildii^g, for the accommodation of twenty widows,
each of whom has an allowance of twenty pounds a year. Thamp*
son's Hospital, another benevdlent institution of the same kind,
afibrds lodging for six poor men and as many women, who anuu-
ally receive ten pounds each.
At a small distance south-east of the town is the Bridevoell for
the county, a brick edifice, on Howard's plan.
The manor of Petworth being an appendage to the honour of
Arundel, was given with the latter to William de Albini, who
afterwards married Adeliza, relict of Henry I. At the solicita-
tion of the queen, Albini was induced to settle this lordship on
her nephew Josceline, of Louvaiue, who, on liis marriage with
the heiress of William de Percy, an opulent baron, assumed the
surname of her family, and was the progenitor of the renowned
Percies Earls of Northumberland. This place was for some cen-
turies their seat till the extinction of that noble house, when
this estate devolved by marriage to Charles Seymour, Duke of
2 C 3 Somerset ;
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Somerset ; %sA was in like maoEer etnied by liis sMoai 4n^
ier into the ikmiiy of Wyndham* (since iiiTested with the earidoa
ef Egremont) and regnlariy tnuismitled to the present noble
proprietor.
Pehtarth House, the magnifieent mansion <tf the Earl of
Egremont, stands close to the town, the back-front opening into
ftke chnrch-yard. It was erected oh the site of the aneioit honaa
by the Duke of Somers^. The front of free-stone, adorned with
Itatnes on the top, forms one unbroken range, haying twenty-one
windows in each story ; hot the arennes to it want space, as the
general effect would hare been infinitely heightened by a move
gradual appro^ich, The interior arrangements are remaikaUe for
magnificence and elegance, all the principal apartments being
decorated with paintings, antique statues, and bmrts, some of
which are of first rate excellence. It is rehited, that taiany of
these antiques, when purchased by the late Eail, were complete
iniralids, some wanting heads, others hands, feet, noses» or other
parts. These mutilations his lordship supplied by the appIicatioB
of new members, very ill adapted in point of exeeatton to the
Grecian or Roman trunks ; whence it is observed that this sUleiy
fabric excited the idea of a hospitsl tor wounded and disabled
statues.
The park is very extensive, the wall being about twelve miles
in circumference. In the front of the mansion is a sheet of water,
formed at an expense of not less than 90,00(M. with the ^ngs
collected from the neighbouring hills. This park, which com-
mands delicious views of the Downs of Surrey and Sussex, is well
stocked with deer and game. T^^e Rev. Mr. Young observes, that
the greatest improvement undertaken oflateyeanr inthiseonnty
was effected in the stag-park here. Previously to ita coi^^version
about thirty-five years ago, it was an entire forest scene, over-
spread with bushes, furze, some timber and rubbish, of no kind of
use, if we eiLcept a few miserable and ragged young cattle anni^
aUy reared upon it. The timber was sold, the underwood grubbed
up, and burned into charcoal on the spot Every par( of the park
t kw
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mmEK. %f
huk ance htea diviaed in the most e^tual maBner, and the whok
«f it ittdbsed and divided into proper fields. Alt tbe crops suo
oeed each ^her in a ayatem of oorrect cultivation^ so that few
tracts of taenty or thirty shillings an acre can be more prodnc-*
tiTe. It is thoroughly well stocked witli Sussex, Devon, and
Hereferdahire cattle ; and fk>cks and fattening she^ of the South
Down^ planish, lieioeater, and Romney hreeds. Besides these
native breeds, his lordship has imported the Calmnck and Astra-
kan iNoeed, whose chief pecoliarity is, that instead of a tail they
have a laq^e projection of fat, or rather of marrow, of exquisite
ddicacy. He has likewise the shawl goat of Tibet, from the fleece
of which the most valuable manufactures of the East-Indies are
prodoeed..
No man has encouraged the rearing of oxen in preference to
hotaea with soch spirit as Lord Egremont ; and, by a judicious
distriimtion of rewards among the indnstrions of the lower classes,
be has rendered a snhstantial benefit not only to those who par-
took of iiu hmnty, hot to the community at large.
Of the viilagea in this rape we shall notice the following :
ABfUEUiEY, four miles north of Arundel, on the east side of
tbe Aran, remarjkable for its CastU, which stands contiguous to
the ehnrch. It was erected in 1368 by William Rede, Bi^op of
Chichester, as a residence for himself and his successors ; but it
was afterwards leased to various families, tili^ at length it came
into Uie possession of Lord Selsea. This episcopal castle is now
in ruins ; but a small part of it has been transformed into ther
habitation of a fanner. The building is constructed on a rock,
and forms a; parallelogram. Thb exterior wall on the north side
is entire ; as are also the east and west ends : but the south Bide
has not so well withstood the ravages of time. It is defended on
this side by a foss, over which a bridge leads to tbe principal en-
trance between two small round towers, with grooves for a port«
cnllis. On the north and west sides it appears to' have been of
no great strengtli ; the ruins of an arch within the walls, how-
avw, prove the architecture to have been light and elegant. In
2C4 one
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88 scssEX.
one of the apartmentB, calledHhe Queen's Room, are the i
of the poriraiU of ten ancient momrchs and their qoeewi, with
their coats properly blazoned ; and on the ceiling are the poitzaiU
of six warriors carved in wood.
Angmering Park, in the parish of the same name, was inr-
merly the seat of the ancient and respectable iieunily of the Pal*
mors, to whose memory there were several curious monnments
in a small sacristy on the north side of the chancel of the ehureh.
That part of the estate to which this burial-place belonged having
passed by sale into the £ajnily of Shelley, it was pulled down about
the year 1774, by Sir John Shelley, who carried away the moan-
ments or the fragments of them to Michel-grove. Angmering
Park afterwards became by purchase the property of the Iat«
Hicbard Walkejc, Esc^,
In the parish of Bignob, very near the Roman road from Cbi^
Chester to Dorking, have recently been discovered soine beantifol
specimens of the workmanship of the finst conquerors of Britain.
These consist of three distinct mosaic pavements, which seem to
have adorned as many apartments of a Roman villa, the eld
foundations of the walls of these rooms having been traced, and
buildings raised upon them to protect these valuable rdica from
the injuries of the weather. The discovery was accidentally made
in July 1811, with the plough, in a field known by the name of
Oldbnrj.
The largest of these pavements, and the first that was laid
opea, is in an apartment thirty -one feet by thirty, in the centre
of which is a small hexagonal vapour bath, three feet and a half
wide from the outward stone coping, forming six seats, with two
steps to the arena, or basement, which is only two feet four inches
wide, and has a leaden pipe or flue in the middle. In a compart-
ment contiguous to one of the sides of this bath is a complete
figure of a Bacchante ; and in another a similar figure perfect
down to the waist. Th« other sides had undoubtedly the like
ornaments, but of these no traces are lefL In the other princi*
pal division of this floor, which is circular, is a spirited repre-*
sentatioQ
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8089BX. $9
gMiWiott of tte Rape of Ganymede. The Bmallest of tbe^e paTe-
meiits, about twenty feet by ten, ia quite entire^ but contains no
igarte. Ar one end of the third, which is the weftterninosr, and
b&a 'iostained the greatest injury, is pourtrayed the bast of a
fenale, holding in her hand a leafless branch, which is const-
deried by some antiquaries by whom these remains have been
inspected, as emblematic of winter. In one corner of this apart-
ment, fbrty-Uiree feet by seventeen, is a small flue for a chimney.
In all these pieces; but particularly in the second, the colours
are remarkably vivid. The borders are composed of white, black,,
grey, and red ; the figures are formed of tesserae of blue and green
glaas; and purple, red, blue, white, and black tesserm of a different
kind ; and the area of the room round each is paved with Roman
brick. Besides these apartments, the foundations of other walls
and passages, paved with brick, have been laid open. In clearing
^m was found part of the shaft of a column, which, from the
regularity ^ of the section and the hole in the centre, seems
to have been one of several pieces of which it was composed.
Itoman bricks of various sizes, some of the flue kind, with a con-
siderable quantity of rubble-stone, fragments of the fine red Sa-
mian vessels, and other Roman pottery, with decorated plaster
of the walls of the apartments, have also been turned up.*
Bignor was the birth-place of Mrs, Charjlott£ Smith, a
lady who held a very high rank among her literary qontempora-
ries. She was the daughter of Nicholas Turner, Esq. of Bignor
Park, and was married at a very early age to the son of a West-
India merchant. The misfortunes in which she was involved ia
ooBseqnence of this mateh drove her to the exercise of her ta-
lents, on which her poetical productions, and some of her novels,
reflect
* The writer wms iitfonDed that Mr. Lyaons wai at Bignor for a week in the
turomer of 1811, and again for a fortnight in 181 f« taking drawings of thia
curioas, and> as he declares, most perfect specimen of the Roman tesselated
f avementt ever discovered in Britain ; so that it is to he hoped the public
frill receive a detailed acconnt of it from the pen of that ingenioas writer.
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flu tiystn.
refleol tho higheft enilit. Mn. Smith died in Octab^ IM0, li
tiM TiOage of Tilford, near Pamham *
Burum Park, in the parish of the saime name^ ia the rentece
of John Bidanlph, Esq. Here, in 1740, aeYeral bonea aid leiA
of an elephant were found by aome labovrera who were Egging a
trench in the park* These relica lay at the deptib of me feet
fr«m the aorⅇ and it is remarkable, that they were not doae
togetiier, as we ahoald expeet those of a skeleton to be, hot at
aome distance aannder, the larger tnska lying fall twenty kt^
aport: whence it was inferred that they must have been hnriei
here by the nnirorsal delnge.
A discovery of a different kind is said to have be« laMly
made in this parish on a farm belonging to the Earl of Egremavt,
where aome children at play found what q^pears to be the rpmaiiw
of • Roman bath. His lordship, on being informed of fte dp-
•nmstanc^ notified hia intention of haying it opened nnder his
#w& direction.
At DoNcTOK, about two miles from Bignor, the remains of an
extensive Roman bath were also discovered by some p1oi^;hmea
in the spring of 1813.
At Harduam, near the Amn, was a priory of Black Canoim
(banded in the time of Henry II. but by whom is not recorded.
The site of this establiahment, in the rich meadows oppodte to
the parish chnroh, is now a fiurm-honse ; and the chapel b con-
Tcrted
• In tlie chnrdi of Stoke aeit GaOcirord, againit the north wmB at dM
ehftnoel» b «n elcguit noouBent of while marble by Bteoo. with • 9«r
border, and a tablet, on which it thii iascriptioa: •' Ssered tv the taleali
and ▼irtnes of Mrt. Charlotte South, (eldert danabterof Nicl^plas Tiuacr*
ti^ l«te of SCohe Place,) who terminated a life of gnat and vacioos suffering
on the tSth of October, 1806. AIm to the menory of Charlea and George
Frederick Smith, two of her torn, who met an early, but honourable death,
in the West-Indws, in the lerrice of their country. This tribnte of gnii-
tade. of aflliction, of fitial and finOemal love, is inacxibcd by the i
fe^ly,^'
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0V8SU. 91
MvlBd iDto a barn. la the chorch-yard is a remarkable yew<
tree, whoae trunk, h<^w with age, at the height of four feet, ia
twenty-three in drcumfierenoe.
AboQt four miles sooth of Arundel is Little Hampton, the
port of that town, situated at the mouth of the Arun. This place
baa of late years been much frequented for the purpose of sea*
bathing; but as yet the accommodations which it affords are
upon a Yery limited scale.
Paruam, about six miles north of Arundel^ is situated under
an immense hill, which commands a prospect of the Isle of Wight,
aa well as of the principal towns and villages for many miles
north, east, and west The principal object of curiosity at this
place is the fine old seat, though now considerably modernized,
of Sir Cecil Bisshopp, Bart, standing in a rich park abounding
with deer, and stately groups of oaks and other timber. It has
two principal finonts to the south and west The entrance con-
ducts into a handsome stone hall, about forty feel by twenty-
four, and proportionably lofty, with an ornamented ceiling af
rosea and fleora-de-lis. The walls are hung round with paiat-
ings of wiid beasts, birds, and game. In the laige transom win*
dows is soma beaatifol painted glass, representing subjects in
saered history. On the right hand ia a handsome dining-room
with some good paintings and portraits, among which are those
of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, Lord Burleigh, and Robert
Fahner, Esq. who erected this mansion. The library also con-
tains seyeral paintings ; and the old dining-room next to it is
adorned with large pieces by the best nmsters. The leng gal«
lery at the top of the house is very curious, being upwards of
tfty yards in length, with a eoved and ornamented ceiling, and
fpU of pietures, the principal of which are portraita.
Thb ancient seat was fomeriy owned by a younger branch of
the ancient fomily of Palmer of Angmering. By what means it
passed to the Bisshopps we are not informed. Sir Thomas, the
first baronet, so created in 1620, was certainly seated here; and
it haa ever since contianed the residence of his deseendanti^
The
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92 scssEx.
The church, a very small old tftrocUre, stands in a smsif
grove about 300 yards from the front of the hoose. Oo the
sooth side is a small chapel, almost covered irith ivy, which is
the kirial-place of the Bisshopp family, but contains no monu-
ments worthy of notice.
The Rape of Brahber.
The next division of the county, proceeding eastward, is the
Rape of Bi-amber, bounded on the east and west by the rapes of
Lewes and Arundel, on the north by Surrey, and on the south
by the English Channel. It compreheDds ten hundreds ; having
thirty-one parishes in the Upper, and eleven in the Lover Divi-
sion; and contains the boroughs of Bramber, Horsham, New
Shoreham, Steyuing, all of which, excepting the first, are mar-
ket-towns, as are also Terring and Worthing, though the latter
eiyoys no charter to authorize this dititinction.
Bramber,
BOW a mean village, was once a phice of sufficient importance
•to give name to the rape in which it is situated. It stands
near a small stream, once navigable for small vessels. The
town, which, with the parish, contains only twenty-two houses,
and ninety-one inhabitants, is divided into two parts, one of
which joins Steyning, while the other, about half a mile distant,
is denominated Bramber Street
The manor belongs to the Duke of Norfolk, and the town,
is govecned by a constable, chosen annually at the court^Ieet
From 26 Edward I. to 12 Edward IV, Bramber was joined witli
Steyning in tlie y^rits for electing two burgesses to serve in Par-
liament ; but since that period they have each returned the same
number. The right of election is in persons paying scot and lot,
and inhabiting houses built on ancient foundations. The bur-
gage-holds, thirty-six in number, are the joint property of the
Duke of Rutland and Lord Calthorpe.*
On
^ It is related that in the election contest io 1786, tlie tenant of one of tlie
- cottages of which this borough consists had the integrity to reject the offer of
lOOOi. for his vote.
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On the norfji-east side of Bramber-strcet, are the ruins of the
^cient Castle, the only relic of tlie former consequence of this
place. It was the baronial ctetle of the honour of Brember,
which, at the time of the Conqueror's Rurvey, belonged to Wil-
liam de Braose, who possessed forty other manors in the county
of Sussex. These were held by his descendants for several ge*
Iterations by the service of ten knights' fees ; and they obtained
permission to build themselves a castle here ; but the exact date
of its erection is not recorded. In the year 1208^ King John,
suspecting some of his nobility, sent to demand hostages for
their fidelity. Among the rest, his messengers required of Wil-
liam de Braose the surrender of his children. To this demanil
the wife of that nobleman, according to Matthew Paris, retamed
for answer, that she would never trust her children with the
king, who had so basely murdered his own nephew. Prince
Arthur, whom he was in honour bound to protect This reply
Was reported to the monarch, whom it highly incensed ; and he
secretly dispatched his 'soldiers to seize the whole family : but,
having received intimation of his design, they fled to Ireland,
where, in the year 1210, he contrived to get them into his hands,
sent them over to England, and closely confining them in Wind-
sor Castle, caused them to be starved to death. Stowe inlbrms
us, that Wiinam de Braose himself escaped to France, but did not
long survive this catastrophe. John, having seized the estates of
his unfortunate victim, gave this castle and manor to his second
son, Richard, Earl of Cornwall ; but shortly before his death he re-
stored part of these posscssious to Reginald, son of the former
owner, who, on the accession of Henry III. procured of that prince
the restitution of the whole. The last of the family of Braose who
held this castle, having married his daughter to John, the son
and heir of Roger de Mowbray, made a special settlement of the
honour and estate upon them and their heirs. Mowbray for-
feited both, together with his life, by joining the EarJ of Iau-
caster, and other nobles, against the Despensers, the favorites
of Edwaid II. ; but his possessions were restored by Edward III.
9 to
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94 . SVMSX.
to his son, %lio atleaded that manareh in two ex^editiooB to
Fiance. When the French threatened in their tarn to faiTade the
EngUsb coaAts, he was directed to reaudn in thia castle, whence
he might sally forth and annoy the enemy. In this family it r^
aained till the reign of Henry VII. when, on the death of John da
tfowbray, Diike of Norfolk, who fell at the battle of Boaworth,
his estates escheated to the Crown; and this castle and manor,
with several other lordships in the county, were conferred on Tho-
mas Lord de la War.
History, which is remarkably sterile on the subject of this
caiitle, no where records when, or by what means, it was reduced
to its present condition. Its ruins attest that it was once a
strong and extensive edifice; but the only remaina now to be
seen are a lofty piece of what is supposed to have been the gate-
way, and some low fragments of walls on the west side. It ap-
pears to haye completely covered the top of a rugged eminence,
which commands a fine view of the a^laoent country and the sea,
and to have been surrounded by a triple, toench now overgrown
Itith trees and bushes. Grose observes that, on considering the
vast thickness of the remaining firsgments of the waUs, and the
small efiect which time and weather have produced upon it since
Hdllsr's view was taken, there is reason to suppose, that it waa
demolished by gunpowder, perhaps lor the sake of the mate-
riak^.
The church, dedicated to St Nicholas, stands near the ruins
of the castle, and is undoubtedly of great antiquity ; but the
date of its erection is unknown. The original edifice was stand-
ing as early as the Norman Conquest, and soon after that event
was given by William de Braose to the monks of Florence, at
Saamnr in France. The patronage at present belongs to Msg-
dalen College, Oxford, to which fi>undation it was probably
granted by Henry V. on the suppression of the alien priories. This
building, it is evident, was formerly larger than at present In
17^1, when Grose's view of it was taken, the chancel had long
been
• Antiqt V.. 140.
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tcea mio^. Ofer tbe entnnoe, ftctng tlie nooA, m a tiieDbv
'Saxon arch. Two large arches of the same kind are to be aectt
en the ncMth and south sides of the tower, which is square and
cBibattled ; and there are traces of another at the east end, which
is almost entirdy oTergrown with laxuriant ivy. About thirty
years ago, when this church was repaired by the Rev. Dr. Greni^
be erected a iiandsonie window at the east end, in which are in*
sorted the arms of the Dukes of NorfeHL and Rutland, and those
af Magdalen College, by Egginton.
HORSflAM,
siinated on the river Adur, towards the northern extremity of
this rape, is one of the largest towns in the county, compre-
hending within the limits of the parish 566 houses, and 3204 in-
habitants, according to the returns of 1801. It is commonly
supposed to derive its name from Horsa, the brother of Hengist,
the Saxon ; but there seems to he nothing more than the simi*
larity of sound to support this conjecture. Its situation in that
part of the county, which was formerly one continued forest^
would authorize us to suppose, with at least equal plausibility,
that the present appellation of tnis place is a corruption of
Hurstham.
Horsham is a borough by prescription, and has returned two
members to Parliament ever since the reign of Edward I. The
right of election is in those persons who possess an estate
by inheritance or for life, in burgage houses or burgage lands
lying within the borough. Their number is about twenty-five.
The town is governed by a steward, two bailifii, who are the re-
tuniing officers at elections for representatives, and two con-
stables; all of whom are annually chosen at the court-leet of the
manor, which belongs to the Duke of Norfolk. The weekly mar-
ket on Saturday is abundantly supplied with com and poultry ;
and on the last Tuesday in. every month there is another for cattle.
The fairs, chiefly for cattle and sh^p, are held on the Monday
before
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96 fiOSSEt.
WofeWhit*Sand«y, on Uie 18th of July, and Mlowing Sittiir^y
and on the 16th and 27th of Novembar.
The Church, a fine old structure, has a lofty spire of lead and
slate, and a large pointed east window. In the chancel is an
ancient altar-tomb, wrought round with compartments of plain
shields; and upon it is a finely proportioned reeumhent figure of
a man in armour, with conical head*piece ornamented, and lying
upon his helmet, with his arms across his breast, a dagger at hia
side, and his feet resting on a dog. Though there is neither in-
scription nor arms to indicate for whom this monument was
erected, yet it is con6dently asserted, that it covers the remains
of William Lord Braose, maternal ancestor of the Dukes of Nor*
folk. Here is also another large altar-tomb of Sussex marble,
richly wrought with a canopy, but no figure, arms, or inscription.
This, like the other^ is said by some to be the tomb of a Lord
Hoo, but is most probably for one of the family above mentioned.
On the south side of the chancel is a beautiful altar-monument
of white marble, on which lies the figure of a female, in robes
richly carved, her right hand resting on her breast, her left on a
book. The inscription informs us that it was erected in memory
of Elizabeth, wife of Thomas Delves, Esq. hour apparent of Sir
Henry Delves, Bart who died in 1654.
Horsham has a good Market House and a Town Hall, in
which the Summer Assizes are held alternately with Lewes.
This edifice the Duke of Norfolk is now enlarging at his own
expense, so as to render it more commodious for the judges and
magistrates at the Assizes and quarter-sessions.
The County Gaol, a new and commodious structure, built
partly with stone from the neighbourhood, stands in a situation
judiciously chosen at the southern entrance of the town. A small
garden extends along the front of the building, which has two
spacious court-yards of about half an acre each, with gravel-
walks surrounding a fine grass-plot The wall which encircles
them encloses the whole prison. It has two floors built over
srcades ; each debtor and felon has a separate room^ all arched
over
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stusx. 97
o?er witk brick to prevent confasion and danger in case of fire.
On each floor is also- a day-room of suitable dimensions. The
chapel is in the keeper's bouse ; here prayers are read every
day, and a weekly sermon is delivered by the chaglain, who re«
ceives a salary of fifty pounds per annum. That of the gaoler is
1201. and he has under him three turnkeys, who are paid by the
county.
Here are two Free'Schoois aud Meeting-houses for the
Quakers, Methodists, Baptists, and Presbyterians : southward
of the town are extensive Barracks, and a magazine in which are
kept 30,000 stand of arms.
In the same direction on the right of the road is an old seat
called Hill Place, formerly the property of the late Viscoun-
tess Irwin, but now belonging to the Duke of Norfolk. Denn
Park, about a mile farther, on the ieft, is an old brick mansion,
the residence of William Markwick, Esq. Springfield, the pro*
perty of William Morris, Esq. and Horsham Park, the residence
of Robert Hurst, Esq. adorn the northern entrance to the town ;
about a mile east of which, in St Leonard's Forest, is GdoI
Hurst, a seat of the Earl of Galloway.
Shoreham.
There are two places of this name distinguished by the
epithets of Old and A^eto. Old Shoreham, formerly a town of
some importance, situated near the month of the Adur, has dwin-
dled into a village of about thirty houses, and 188 inhabitants.
It is mentioned in our ancient histories as the spot where Ella,
the first king of the South Saxcms, made good his second landing,
on his return from Germany with the reinforcements which en-
abled him to accomplish the conquest of this province. The only
relic of the aneient consequence of Old Shoreham is its church,
great part oi which lies in ruins. This fabric is evidently of
very early date. The arches in the interior are large, iti the
Saxon style, and adorned with the zigzag ornament: several
Vol. XIY. 2 D traces
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96 9VBHZX.
traces of similar arches appear on the exterior^ especially in the
minoQS north transept ; and in the upper part of the tower, which
has circalar windows above. On the south side is a remarksfhle
door-way : columns, nearly buried in the ground with folfagv to
the capitals, support an arch having in the architrave three dis-
tinct parts; the first contains a sort of triglypiis, the second
diagonals^ and the third patene«
At this place a handsome light wooden bridge crosses the
Adur, which is here of considerable breadth : it was built by virtae
of an Act of Parliament passed in 17^1^ authorising 500QI. to be
raised for the purpose in shares of 1001. each.
. N£W SsoRfiHAM, about half a mile southward of Old Shore-
ham, on the east side of the mouth of the Adur, has risen into
consequence upon the ruins of the latter, probably on account of
its more convenient situation for trade. In 1801, it was found to
contain 148 houses, and 799 inhabitants. It has a weekly market
on Saturday, and a (ait on the 25th of July. The government of
the town is vested in two constables chosen annually al the ct)urt-
leet of the manor.
New Shoreham is a borongh by pret^cription, having sent mem-
bers to Parliament ever since 26 Edw. I. 1298. The right of
election was enjoyed by all the householders paying scot and lot,
till 177], when a scene of the most shameful corruption was dis-
efosed beibra a Committee of the House of Commons. It appeared
thai a majority of the electors had formed theaaeelves^info a so-
ciety» wndCT the denominailioii of the Ckn$iiam Chtb; the oe-
leasible object of whioh was the promotieB of chari^ and lieoe*>
volenoe,aad the aeoomplishBMnt of mich other purposes as oorres-
pottded with Ae character which the members had assasMd. Under
this cloak th^ made a trafte of their oaths and consciences^ set-
ting their borough to the higliest bidder, while the rest of the in-
habitants wece deprived of every legal ben^t from their votes.
To prevent any similar combination Partiamefit passed an act
to disfranchise every member of the Christian Society^ uid to
extend the votes fer Shoreham to the whole rape of Bramber, so
thai
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tkai t&e tight cf tiectkm is now imfaitej to about 1300 free-
hoMen.
The Church, formerly collegiate, is laige, and exbibits an
interesting specimen of the onion of the Saxon and the eartj
pointed style, at a period when tliose two systems were main*
taining thait struggle by which one of them was to acquire the
sole dominion in all public works. The plan of the church is a
cross ; the nave » destroyed, bnt confused masses of walls s^ll
reniaining mark the boundary of the west front. The lofty
square tower rising from the centre of the transepts consists of
two stories, the first etftirel]^ Saxon, baring two arched reces^s
with columns, aU within each recess on arched window. Ai the
sidtib, aihd betwieen each recto, are breaks, and columns at
the angle of thb tower. The second story also has two re«
cesses with columns, baring arches of the pointed form ; two
windows again occur, but their arches are circular, and their
openings are divided into three small lights, by columns which
support small chcular arches. These lights and columns, as^
antiquary has observed*, give the strongest warrant for sup«
posing that they were some of the early hints towards forming
tfa^ system of mnllion-work, which constituted the invariable or«
nament of windows in subsequent ages. The east front is a beau-
tiful elevation, and in good condition. It consists of three tiers :
in the first are three circular-arched recesses with columns ; and
in the centre recess is a circular-headed window. On the right
and left are tlie fronts of the side aisles with one circular recessy
anid a window of the same kind to each ; above these are other
oircuUir Recesses and breaks at tbe angles. The second, or prin«
dpal tier, wholly in tlie ponited style, presents three grand win-
dbws incotforated as' it were into one, divided by clusters of
columns with rich capitals, having pointed heads to the arches
and archiVrares €if ihany mouldings. The third tier has one larg»
ctot^ circiilar window with several small recesses of various
forias and dinkensioDS on each side. The front finishes with a
2 D 2 pediment
* GentIeoian*t Mag. 1807«
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IM 8U8SSX.
pedimeot The details of the iDterior are remarkable for thehr ele*
gance^ richaess^ and diversity ; ao that this edifice altogether may
be said to present an excellent school for the stady of our ancient
arcbitectore.
The only public edifice worthy of notice besides the church is
the Market-Howe, situated in the middle of the town, and sup*
ported by Doric pillan.
Before the Reformation, New Kiorehara had a priory of Oar-
melites> or White Friars^ founded by Sir John Mowbray, and also
a Hospital dedicated to St. James.
Shoreham has a tide harbour, which is dangerous on account of
the frequent shifting of the sands, and a long flat rock visible
at low water. In firing -tides it has about eighteen feet water,
about twdve in common, and not more than three feet at the
ebb. It runs along by the town parallel with the sea, with which
it communicates about half a mile eastward of the place.
The principal business carried on at Shoreham is sbip-building,
with its dependent branches; vessels of 700 tons have been
launched there ; the harbour, notwithstanding ita inconveniencies,
being the best on this part of the coast, is frequented by shipa
of considerable burden, and has a custom-house, with a collector
and inferior officers.
STEXNINa
derives its name from the Steyne Street, or ancient Roman road
from Arundel to Dorking, which passes through this place. In
1801 it contained 212 houses, and 1174 inhabiUnts. It has a
weekly market on Wednesday, another on the second Wednesday
, in every month for cattle, and three foirs, June 9, September 19,
and October 10.
Steyning is a biHrough by prescription, and returns two repre-
sentatives, who are elected by the householders and inhabitants
within the borough, paying scot and lot, in number i^ut 115.
The municipal government is vested in a constable^ who is the
retuming
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8VB8BX. 101
retanhig officer «t eledioas, and is appointed at the eonrt-leet of
the Duke of Norfolk, by whom the manor was purchased of Sir
lohn Honywood.
This t6wn is situated at the foot of a lofty hill not far from the
river Ador, and eonsists of four transverse streets^ the principal of
which run sonth-west and north-east The houses upon the whole
are rather mean.
The Church, which stands in a picturesque situation on the
east side of the town, is an edifice of high antiquity. The only
part now left is the nave; the transepts and choir being com-
pletely destroyed. The tower is low and heavy, built of flint
and stone, with immense buttresses at each comer. The body
of the church is formed of lofty stone walls with a heavy tiled
roof. The style is Saxon, and in the finest taste ; the work on
the exterior may be called rich, but that in the interior highly
magnificent. A professional writer has pronounced it to be one
of those excellent Saxon remains, which, if not of the most ex-
tensive dimensions, at least abounds in all that is beautiful in de-
sign, and perfect in execution. Within, on each side of the nave,
are four beautiful Saxon arches, so varied in their ornaments that
no two are alike, and which were deemed sufficiently interesting to
be copied by order of the Duke of Norfolk for the purpose of being
introduced among the embellishments of Arundel Castle. '
A Free Grammar Sehooi was founded at Steyuing about the
middle of the sixteenth century, by a tradesman, of the name
of Holland, who is buried in the church-yard. It was endowed
with lands producing, in 1790, about forty pounds a year, for
which the master was to afford gratuitous instructions to all the
boys of the town and parish. This charitable bequest is most
grossly misapplied, if we may rely on the information communi-
cated by a correspondent of a respectable periodical miscellany,
who states that the house formerly used as the school was, in
1804, occupied by the Rev. Mr. Morgan> who enjoyed the stipend,
and other emoluments as master, but performed no duty.*
2 D 3 Exten-
• QtoUemaa's MagasiDc for 1804, p. 805*
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Exlensm Utneks fi>r in&atry were % ISqw y#ifs naee «#cU4
at Steyoiog.
In this town was in ancient timet a priory of BeiMdicline fnpidci
^obordiBate to the abbey of the Holy Trioi^ a^Feaw^P^ in Nor*
mufkdy, founded by King Edward the CoofiB#Mr« a|lddedi€al^4
to St Mary Magdalen, which aft the diafolqftipn of the aliea
priories waa given to Sion Abbey, in Middleaex. In tha ol^areii
belonging to thia monastic estaUiahmea^ which is coqjeatwe^ to
be the present pariah church, wera interred thfs r^maiaa of St*
Cuthman, and of Ethelwnlf, Kjug of Wessex, &t|ier of Alfred tha
Great
TfiRRWOy
or Tarrhigf in the aonth-ifest corner of tbjs rape^ not fur ftom
Worthing, ia a small market-town, that gives name to the boa*
dred in which it is situated. In 1801 it contaified 81 bflOMSj
and 487 inbabitanis. The market for corn is erery Saturday,
but the market-house was pal|ed down fifty yeara agp. Th^
church contains nothing worthy of notice except a strong box in
which the charter of the market is said to be deposit^.
This manor waa given by King Athelatan to Olirist Churcbf
Canterbury, and afterwards held by the arobl^i^bopa of that see.
The old inanorial house, in which, as tradition lelatsft, AichbiahQii
Becket often resided^ w^ occopied as the rectory aftec tli^ Re-
formation, and as such belonged to the late Dr. MiUo»> Seta of
Exeter, who repaired it, and thr^w the whol^ iolp oaa room lor tha
purpose of a charity-school.
In a hoase at Salvingtoh, a hamlet in this pari«b» of which
soi^e remaiiui are still left, wi|8 bom in 1084 Jqbn 6bi.dsk,
who so highly distinguished himself as a scholar, a lawyer, aa
antiquary, and a patriot that be was styled by Gvotiva tha
Clary of England. He wa« educated at tha Ffoe Schaol of
Chichester, and at Uart Hall, Cambridge, and afterwards devoted
himself to the study of the law* Selden first obtained a seat ia
Parliament in 1623, and took tia acti?e part in the opposition to
tha
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ft<f«uz. 103
the arMnry piDCM^iiigs which at length bmoght Charlea I. to
the hlock. He died im 16d4« and waa interred, aecordivg to his
own rofHert, in the Tenple Churchy London. His valuable col-
leefcion of hooka now foriM part of the splendid Bodleian library
at OxiiNd. The mutterouB produetioas of his pen ware published
loKo^her in 1726, in three folio toIuows.
WORTHIKa,
not many yean since an obscure Tillage^ consisting of a few
miserable fishermen's huts*^ is now become a fashionable and
much frequented watering-place. For this preference it is cer*
tainly much indebted to the advautages of its situation, which is
peculiarly favourable to the invalid, as the range of the South
Downs completely excludes the chilling north and east winds,
and the sands, perfectly level to the distance of several miles along
the coast, aflbrd the greatest fiicility for bathing in the most tern-
pestuous weather, and opportunities for healthful exercise either
on horseback, or on fook
The modem buildings are situated near the beach, but the
town extends northward in a straight line for about half a mile.
Several of the new streets are composed of houses sufficiently
extensive and elegant to accommodate the first families in the
kingdom. Among these the Steyne, a noble range, (but not com-
pletely finished,} of very handsome houses, runs parallel with
Warwick Buildings, another elegant row, which is the western-
tnost boundary of Worthing, so as to form with it two sides of an
extensive square, open to the sea, and to the north.
About a quarter of a mile from the beach is a neat new Chapel
erected by a subscription raised in shares of twenty-fiv^e pounds
2D4 each.
* The author of the " Pictitre of Wortbiog*' was MtofSd by an old m-
iMbiiaot, that before it became a batbing-place the aooaai rant of none of
thoM bonae* exceeded forty abillingi, and that an adjoining piece of gronndL
to the extent of an acre« might b^ bought for half an anchor, or live gallons of
brandy*
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\ ''
104 8U8flBX«
each, and coinecrated in 1812. The T%euire, a tolenUy spa-
cioas edifice, is situated in Ann Street, and eontignons to it is a
convenient Market, where the stalls, snpported by colamns, sar-
ronnd a quadrangular area. This maricet is supplied daily by the
dealers of Worthing, and is attended regnlaily Ihrice a week by
the inhabitants of the adjacent country. Among* the poblie esta-
blishments may also be reckoned two respectable libraries and
commodious warm baths. The present number of bathing-machines
is about sixty.
Among the private buildings at Worthing, Warwick Housi
stands pre-eminent; from its extent, appearance, and situation, it
may indeed be ranked among the first habitations in the kingdom.
It was built by the Earl of Warwick while proprietor of the manor
of Broadwater, which comprehends Worthing, but which has passed
into other hands; and it is generally occupied in the bathing sea-
son by some family of distinction. Worthing Houseyt, neat plea-
sant mansion, at the entrance of the village, is lett in like man-
ner as a lodging-house.
The oceym must have encroached considerably on this coast, if,
a^ we are assured, an extensive common once lay between Wiurthing
and the sea. Upon the site of this common, now covered with
sand, and within high water mark, is dug a fine Uue day that pro-
duces an uncommonly beautiful cream-coloured brick, with which
the houses of this place are fh>nted.
Worthing has suffered much from the too great eagerness of
speculators to profit by the fiishionable propensity to frequent
watering-plapes; and though the number of its houses may have
greatly increased of late years, yet it is not too much to assert
that its prosperity has diminished in a like ratio, as there are now
many more than can find occupants. Should the people of
Worthing have the good sense to abstain finom any new enterprises
for a few years, it cannot be doubted that the additional influx of
company attracted by the recent improvements will enable them
to repair the losses occasioned by the error into which they hav«
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8D88B9C. -100
jn&ume Place, in the parish of Albourns^ was formerly tiio
residence of the Joxon family^ one of nhom, during the ciril war
in the seventeenth centory was obliged to disgrace himself as a
nason's laboorer^ and was acting in that capacity during some re*
pairs which were going forward at the chnrch when a party of
Cromwell's soldiers passed hy in quest of him. This mansion
afterwards descended to the^Pagges; and, in the early part of
«the last centary, was the residence of Sir Robert Fagge, whose
• eccentricities are yet remembered in the neighbourhood.* On
his death the estate was carried into the Goring fimiily by hia
• aister, the wife of Sir Charles Goring, Bart
BROADWXtER, of which parish Worthing is a member, was
formerly funous for being the head of the barony of the Lords
Camois, and cdmprehending Offington, the ancient seat of the
Lords de la Warr.
The fiimily of the Camois flourished here for seyeral centuries.
In 26 Henry III. Ralph de Camois executed the office of sheriff
for Surrey and Sussex. A singular circumstance is recorded of
-his grandson, John, who had married Margaret, daughter and
heir of Sir John Gatesden. This lady, oonceiviug an affection for
Sir William Paynell, eloped from her huisband, and lired in aduU
tery with her paramour; on which Camois, by a formal deed
Yohmtarily exeeuted before several witnesses, made orer'to Pay-
nell all his right and title to his wife, together with all the goods,
chattels, and appurtenances then belonging to her, or to which
ahe might at any future period be entitled.t Camois lived soma
years afler this compact;' but died before his wife, who then
married Sir William Paynell, 28 Edward I. ; and, in a petition
to Parliament, claimed a third part of the estate of which her
former husband was possessed at his death. The decision of this
ease being refiaired to Pariiament, and the coansel in behalf of
the
* There is a good portrait of this gentleioan in the maniiQii of Jamea
Wood, Eiq. ofHicksted, in the parish of Twlncham, and rape of Lewes.
t This deed, which was drawn np in Latin, i« givfn a| (cDgth m the fot
jfl^wm of po|dalc*i Beronage, •
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lOS fMXMtIL
tke rigbtfia heir, «Ua4m^ ike gtalvte by whkdi it vm cneted,
'that if a wife, ef her owa aeeofd, Imake her hathMd, aad live
adakeroiiely with another maB, ahe ahaU be debamd ef her
dowry» onieBa her huabaad, vithout eceleaiastical coetoion, be
recesciled i», and eohabit with her ; jvdgawNit waa givea agaiait
the lady» This aait attraefced great atteiitieB at the tine, and
probably oceaaiooed the letter aeat by Pepe Gregory to Aichbi-
ahop Lanfraac, aererely eeoauriag h>e oooiiivaaoe.at a piactiee,
by which HMa vot only f^feook their wiTee, bat erea gave aad
graoted thean away.
Ralph de Camoia left a eon and heir of hiaowa naoie^ who,
6 Edward II. obtained a eharler for a ouffket; andl one ef hia
aaceeaaore proeared another for a lair at 9roadvater. Oa the
death of Hagh de Camoia^ witheat iaaue^ 6 Henry VI. hia two
ajaters became hia coheirs, and Broadwater fell to the portieii of
Iftleanor, wifo of Soger Lewkaer. In the reign of Henry VUL
tiiia eatata waa carried by marrii^e into the fiunily of MiU« ef
which John Mill, Ea^. waa, 1619, created a baronet
The Chwrch, which ia bailt in the cathedral form, eabi-
bita a mixtare of the Saxea and early pointed atyle* Against
the north wall of the chaaeel ia the temb of Thomaa Lord de la
"WarTj a Knight of the Garter, who held varioua effioea nader
Heary VII. and VIII. It ia ef fieenitone, canopied and rkbly
car?ed» hot without figure w inacriplion, esaept the aaotto apen
the gaiier« which surronada hia anna» cat in atone, and fixed
againit the wall. AaM»ag other beqncata apedfied ia hia wlU,
dated 1624, be left to tbia church hia mantle of Une Tehret ef the
garter, and hia gown of cnmson Tclvet bdoi^ng to it, to make
two altar-clothe; and appointed ten marka to be paid anneal^
for thirty yeara, to a prieat to aay nmaa daily in the obnreh ef
Broadwater, and to piay for hia aeoU the aonb ef hia wives,
hia parents, and all Christian aoda.* Hia eon, who was also a
knight of the garter, and died at Offington in 1554> was boned
near his fother, with atandards, bannera of arms, &c. and nsoy
monraers,
• Coiuiit* Peer. V. SUi-p-C
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mo^rmmB, ^ t^iUd in the f^coonot jo£ hi« fanmJ, vI4|]|.i^€l«,
Ih^ifc Ue waa the b^t housekeeper in Siifl#ex.^
Ojfi9^t4m, e^cieQtly the ipnanau^a of this dUting|>Ube4 family,
h9fi iiodergoue lauch alteretton. It U a low heavy bfildinjg;> nf
lit^e, ^dqnjite P^ain m froat» with tf[o «maU projeotipg viQfl.
The grouiid 'V^UV eurroimde i| is ijiploaed vitb ^ J^nfh WSit
Aii4 |)«» tlip aype^iaiice gf a sinall parl^, vith g9o4 gVDIip9 ef
jtimher^ M no 4e^» The piref^nt posse^Mir is WUljeiP M«l>
geaiM>Q» &<|. It might, at a so^ expense^ be rei^ered a chano-
IPg restdegce. ia# jifossesse^, wl^at 9cowii^ o^ to deiioninat^
great capa^tliti^
. Ip the parish of Cijipbam is Michelgrote, which ha? been fte
residenoe of the family of Shelly e?er aii)ce the time of Qeary VI.
whea John Shelly laariied Elizabe^, daughter apd heir p{ Jdin
H icbelgreve^ of this place, WiUiam, the eldest fon of t|iis
iBaticb, was one of th(» judges of the Pipminon Fleas onder ^ei^
VIII. and ponsiderfi^y increased his estate by his Quion with f^
coheiv of the Belknaps^ of Warwickshire John SheUy^ flsq, of
Miehelgrove, was oae of the first baronets created by James {.
The old mansiop, whieh wa^ situated \n a deep^Talleyj» bea«i-
lifuUy diversified^ and weU eoTere4 ^^th wood, is desprihed a^
liaviag been a large qufMhriMigtttar briclf: edifice, w^tb an hexa-
ggnal turret at eai^h corner, bniit ^boat the middle of the sixteenth
century. It was polled d(^W9 ai»ont twei|ty yei^ ago by Sir
John Shelly, who baa erected in its steed a ^papieus i^nd elegaQl
mansion in the Gothic style, embellished in the moat flofid ieate
pf that species of aprchitectme. T^^ arrangements, both internal
aad external^ exhibit e beantifot i^eciae«^ of acieotifie harmony
•nd ability. This magmfiioent strnetsn^ bollt of cream-coloured
bricks stands oa the brow ef i^ geMle declivity faoiagthese»»
»yev which it h^ % fiae pi^ospect, and is said to have cost iti
^irited proprietor a pvm little dior| of IdOlpQODl.
At COWFQI^B, flg 1^ greve-ste%e Ia tl^ ufive of Mie cl^arob> ia
aikli
a 9tfype'# Mtmor. lU. MU
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106 SUSSEX.
a rieh brass eDgraying, representing the portrait of a priert, with
his hands ckuiped together in the attitode of prayer, six feet
long, under a Gothic arch, having three labels issuing from his
right and left shoulder, and the following monkish verses in-
scribed on ' them : 1st on the right hwi^d^Mater stmcta Jhm
me serees mortis ab £nc.— '^d. Mater sancta Dei due ad loca we
rtffiMd.— drd, on the left side : Sit Sancti Thome suscepta pre*
eatio pro me. In the centre of a smaH arch, over the priest's
head, is represented the Virgin sitting, with a sort of coronet on
her head, holding Our Saviour in her lap. From the coronet. Sir
William Burreil was induced to think that the engraver intended
to represent Gundreda, wife of the founder of Lewes priory, as,
from the portrait on her right, he concluded that William, Earl
Warren, was denoted by the %ttre of St. Pancras, to whom
Lewes priory was dedicated. The figure of St Pancras stands
on a pinnacle, treading on a warrior with a drawn sword; he
holds in his right a palm branch and a book in his left, to signify
his love of religion and his abilities in war. ^ On the left is a
bishop, in his mitre and pontifical habit : his right hand is raised,
in the attitude of preaching; in his left he holds a crosier; and,
over his head, is a label, with the words: S^ Thos. Cant
meaning Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canteihury. This fignrs
stands also on a pinnacle. On the dexter side, over 8t Pancni^
is an escocheon in tiie shape of a cross, with an inscription to
denote the Trinfty. On the sinister was also an escocheon, which
18 now lost A ribband on the external rim bean this inscription
in Gothic capitals :
'' Hie Terre Cumntus Tfaomse Nelond tegit ossa. Est et ei
Tumulus praesens sub marmore fossa. Virtutom donia hie clarvit
et rationis exempHs qye bonis decus avxit religionis. Mond/»
Martha fvit sed Christo menter Maria. In Mundo vigvit sed erat
sibi cellii Sophia. In Mail Mensis qvarto decimoqne Kaleadis ad
celi Sedes migravit habendas • . . •
The remainder, which was on the nghX side> is torn off and
Near
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SU8SBX. lot.
Near the Tiliage chorch of FtNi>oN> U Fmdon Place, the seel
of Mrs. Richardson'; and, in the same parish, stands Uigkdm^
the mansion of Sir Harry. Goring* surrounded with beautiful plaii*
tations.
At Lancing, which lies about half-way between Shoreham
and Worthing, two bathing machines are kept; and some good
houses haye lately been erected for the accommodation of persons-
who prefer privacy to the bustle of a fashionable watering-plttoe.
At Upper Lancing is the handsome residence of James Martin
Uoyd, Esq. lieutenant*colonel of the Sussex militia, .anc| one of
the representatives of the borough of Steyning.
At Mdntham, a capacious mansion, surrounded by a pleasant
park, resided the late WiiKam Frankhind, Esq. well known fer
bis devotion to mechanics and natural philosophy, and who, ia
the course of a long life, expended a large sum in the prosecu-
tion of his researches. The iugenuity of the machines contrived,
by him never fiiiled to excite the astonishment of the spectator.
On^ room was full of lallies, wrought by means of a large jack,
from which the graver or chissel also received its direction ; so
that no assistance was required from the hand during the opera-
tion, which proceeded steadily and successfully till the accomplish-
ment of the assigned task. Medals of hard wood, with heads and
figures, even , complicated in their nature, were thus produced.
A second room was furnished with machines for spinnings wind-
ing, and other operations carried on in our manufactories. Here
were also printing-presses of various constructions. Another
apartment was crowded with time^pieces of every form and dimen^^
sion ; together with electrifying machines and optical apparatus,
in almost endless variety. Musical instruments of every kind
were to be found, most of them played by means of machinery ;
and a place was allotted to implements of agriculture. What
rendered the examination of these objects particularly interestiug
was, that they were all constructed from the plans of the vene->
rable proprietor, who at one time kept many workmen, and even
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110 Bvmax.
Mm §Mkgtk coufttfiev, fk eonitaat emp\6j.^ Sbba after
Bir. tncBkhmi^k AeMt In Decanber 1805, this extrsor^iary
eoilMtion tvat diap^Md «f by publi« tale. Many #f the aiiidei
fetched yery high prices, one turning-lathe alone being aold far
tkne HMsaand giiineas.
At Sba&, Mar Steyuing/ WHliatt de Braose, in lUtti, hmiti
m Benedictice priery, sabordinate to the abbey of St Florenoe,
af Saannr, iii France. Frooi tbia dependence it was released by
Biebiid 11^ ifho, kt his oineteenth year, nuufe it indfgena, er
dmiaen. It mm aftenrards aaniBxed to the Coltefe ^dt Mary
Magdalen at Oxford. Some snail renftaras of tfio ceavenlseifr
bliUdinga stHl subsist
hk the parish of BMtVAKBvnT is a hoube called Ewkmti,
anrroiaided with a moat, which aeems to have otice been the resi«
denee of a ftmily of distmetion. A gate>way, bearing eridenl^
niarks of great antiquity, is yet standing in good presenration ;•
it i» baHt principally witii Caen stime, and the gfoore for the
portcullis IB atill visible. The bouse, now inhabited by a (anner,
is of iar more modern erection than this gate-way, which is keptf
in excellent repair by the owner, the Rev. John GratwidL ChaUeOi
patron and rector of the parish, and lord of tlie manor.f
Shermmhuty was the native place of Dr. Thoma9 Combeit,
an eminent scholar and divine of the seventeenth century. Ho
waa the twelfth child of Richard Comber, darencieux Kiag aft
ilrms, and was educated at Horsham and al^Trinity Collie,*
Gambridge, of Which he was elected matter. About 1628 he was
appointed chaplain to the ktng> soon afterwards promoted to M
ANmery of Carlisle, and, in 1631, chosen vice-chancellor of
Cambridge. For his attachment to the royal cause he was not
only stripped of all his preferments, bat UkeWise imprisoned ta
m%. This hard reverse of fortune, together with all the indigo
sities heaped upon him by the Puritans and Independents, b^
bciw with exemplary fortitude till his death in 1653.
Near
* Etwm'i '' Piotare of Worthing," p. 73.
f From the informatioa of Mr. John EUis^ of Hunt-per^point
. 9
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Near West GRFlTfiTEB U We$i OtiniitM Fmrky iAMat, iritb
tile lordsMp, was, m 1744^ punibflid^ fbt fO,78Ctt. hf Mr Mer/
rick Banreli, of John CaryH, EfM|. iivho retiped rMo France tii'tlw
PreCeader, aad asduflied the tilb of Lord Caryll. Sir Merrkk
thoroughly repaired the house^ which m a bandsonile ^one mafi^
aioB; and, at his death, in 1787, devl«ed' this, with hit other
estates in Sussex, to his niece, Mrs. Elizabeth Wyatt, a naliden
lady, for her life, with remainder to WaRer, aeeond tton 6f hitf
nephew, WHUam Barrel!, E^iq-. who is the present proprietor, snd!^
one of the knights of Ifhe shire for this connty.
In the neighbourhood of the same place, bat in the parish &t
Shipley, is also the mansion of Sir Chaiies Merrick BnrreH,'
Bart It tidies its name from Jjutp, or Kmep, CasHe, some
small remains of which edifice are still to^ be seen close to ibxf
high road leading to Horsham. The estate, comprehending about
tOOO acres, formed part of the large possessions of the Carylls
in this county. In 1788 it was sold for 18,9001. by the trustees
of Jacob Rider, Esq. to Sir Cliarles Raymond, Bart, who^ dying*
the same year, left it between his two daughters, Sophia, wife of
Sir William Burrell, and JoKana, wife of Henry Boulton, Esq.
The latter sold her moiety to Sir William, from whom it de*'
■cended to the present possessor.
History has not recorded at what time, or by whom. Knap
Castle was built. There is every reason to presume that, like
most of our auciout castles, it was erected soon after the division
of lands made by the Conqueror among his Norman followers; and
that its founder was of the family of Braose, to which all the ad*
jkeej/tt tract belonged. Mr. Grose, whose view of this ruin was
taken in 1776, observes, tliat even then not a- reasonable con-
jecture respecting its form and extent could be hazarded from its
remains ; " indeed,'' he adds, '* they only s»Ye to prove, what
scarcely occurs elsewhere, that here was once a castle.*" The
manor of Knap was originally a member of the barony qf Brain*
feer, to which it long continued attached.
Near
.• Anliq. Vol. V. p. 164.
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lis «imsB3c
Near tU» castk^ an iababitaot of Weal Orinsted fooiid, wne
jeara befiNre Groae'a aocoont vaa pnbliahed, an ancient gold
thnmb-ring, veighing upwards of aix dwU^ on which is mddj
engrayed a doe lying under a tree ; and on the inside, in Suum
, characters, Jaye som Fin.
WiSTON^ near Steyning, seems to have been early posseBsed
by a ifunily who derived their name from that place, and in
whose descendants by the female line the estate continued unin*
terroptedly till the middle of the seventeenth century, wh^ it had
passed through the Cuuilies of Braose, Bavent, and Shirley.
The last Sir Thomas Shirley was a great sufferer in the cause of
Charles L ; and his son was a celebrated physician. In his time
Wiston, with the estate belonging to it, passed to Sir John Fagge,
created a baronet by Charles II. in 1660. His great grandson.
Sir Robert, who died in 1740, left Wiston, and the principal
part of his possessions, to his sister, the wife of Sir Charles
Goring, Bart, and her eldest son, Charles, brother of Sir Henry
Goring, Bart now possesses this ancient and respectable seat and.
park, with the appendant estates.
This place gave birth to three brothers, who attained to con-
siderable eminence. They were the sons of Sir Thomas Shirley,
who died in 1612. Sir Anthony Shirlby, the second son,
was educated at Oxford and the Inns of Court; and, becoming
known to Robert, Earl of Essex, under his auspices embarked, in
1596^ on a voyage of adventure to Africa and (he West-Indies.
He took the island of Jamaica, and several towns ; but, not
meeting with the wealth that was expected, he was deserted by
the ships which had accompanied him, and obliged to retam to
England in the following year. He afterwards entered into the
service of the King of Spain ; and, though commanded by James
I. to return to England, he refused to obey, and continued to
reside abroad till his death, which happened after the year 1630.
He published several narratives of his voyages and trat eb.
Sir Robert Shirley, the third son, was introduced by his
brother Anthony to the Persian court Here he performed such
essential
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8CSS£t. IIS
essential services against the Turks, that the Sophi gave him a
relation of his own in marriage. With this lady he returned to
England, where he lived many years, much affecting the eastern
habit and manners. At length a dispute having taken placci
between him and the Persian ambassador, to whom Sir Robert
is said to have given a box on the ear, Charles I. sent them both
to Persia to decide their difference ; but Sir Robert died during
the voyage.
Sir Thomas Shirley, the eldest son, was roused to emula-
tion by the success of his brothers. " He was ashamed,'' says
Fuller, in his quaint language, " to see them worn like flowers
in the breasts and bosoms of princes, whilst he himself withered
on the stalk he grew on. This made him leave his aged father
and hir inheritance in this connCy, and undertake sea voyages
into foreign parts, to the great honor of his nation, but small
enriching of himself.''
The Rape of Lewes,
adjoining on the west to that of Bramber, on the east to the rapa
of .Pevensey, is bounded on the south by the English Channel,
nnd on the north by the county of Surrey. It comprehends
twelve hundreds and forty-seven parishes, thirty-eight of which
are in the Upper, and nine in the Lower, division.
BRiaHTHELMSTONE,
more commonly called Brighton, sow the largest and most popu-
lous town in the whole county, was little more than half a century
ago only a small insignificant place, situated on a part of th^
coast, but little frequented. In 1801 it contained 1282 houses,
and 7399 inhabitants : but since that period its increase must
have been astonishingly rapid, as we are assured that in Id09
there were upwards of 2000 houses, and 12,000 settled inbabit-
VOL.XIV. 2E anU;
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114 BtSfeElt.
tnto ; and that the annual Tiriton^ <br the pnrpoaea of heehh er
pleasure, amounted to an equal number.*
Whether, as some hare anrmised, this place was frequented by
the Romans while they remained masters of Britain ; or whether
It deriTed its name from Brighthehn, a Saxon bishop, who made
it his residence, it would now be equaDy Tain and friTdoas to
enquire. So much, howerer, is certain, that the former ooajo
ture is strengthened by the discovery of bones and coins of the
emperors, which have been iag up near the town in oras of
Roman manufacture. After the Norman Conquest, it was given,
with the lordship of Lewes, to William de Warren. During the
numerous wars in which this eouatry has been aigaged with
France the trade and fisheries of Brighthelmstone, in common with
the ndghbouring towns, frequently suffered great injury from de-
scents made by the enemy on these southern coaiits. To protect
the place from such attacks, Henry YIII. in 1599, built s Uodr-
house here, and Elizabeth 'added waUs of considerable length,
together with four gates; but all these fortifications were gradu-
ally undermined, and at last completely deifttroyed, by the sea. In
the early part of the seventeenth century Brighthelmstone was
one of the most flourishing towns in the whole county^ contain-
ing no fewer than 600 fiimilies, who were chiefly employed in the
fisheries ; but owing to the restrictions laid upon the latter, and
to heavy losses at sea by the capture of its shipping, the place fell
to decay; and, to add to its misfortunes, 130 houses were swept
away by an inundation of the sea in 1699. The damage occa-
sioned by this calamity was comp«ted*at 4O,000L To prevent
the recurrence of such devastation, a fund has been established
by aet of Pariiameat for constructii^ and keeping in repair
groynes, or jetties, which serve to bound the destructive element,
and to collect and to retain the gravel, which the waves bring
hither in immense quantities from the westward, as an additional
barrier.
It was not till towards the middle of the last century that
* jUtree'i Tofiag. of Brigbtoo, p. 4* -
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)IOflSB?U lid
BrighthelmHone b^gaa ta attract notice aa a place of summer
reaort; and the profesaiotial skill of Dr« Patrick. Russell, who
revived the medical use of sea-water, recommeuded it to visitors
of distiuction. From that period it has been gradually advanciag
to its present state of improvement and prosperity ; and, having
been chosen as the summer residence of the heir apparent to the
throne, it has risen to the rank of the most important watering*
place in the kingdom. Fashion has abbreviated its ancient name
to lighten, by which appellation it is now universally known.
The town is governed by a constable and eight head-boroughs,
who are annually chosen at the conrt-leet of the lord of the manor,
the Earl of Abergavenny. It is not incorporated ; but power is
vested by act of Parliament in sixty-four of the inhabitants, who
are denominated commissioners, to cleanse, light, and repair the
atreets, to remove nuisances, and to enforce other regulations
conducive to the benefit and improvement of the place.
Brighten stuids on a declivity, which gradually slopes towards
the south-east to the Steyne ; but the ground again rises with a
moderate ascent in the eastern part of the town. It is protected
from the north and north-east winds by a range of hills, which com-
mand a view extending to the Isle of Wight, and over the Weald
of Sussex. The soil is naturally dry ; and scarcely any spot in
the kingdom enjoys a more salnbrious air. The common mate-
rials employed here for building are flint-stones, cemented with
mortar ; and brick-work round the doors and windows.
Brighton, including the various modern additions, is of a qua-
drangular form, divided from north to south by the Steyne, and
its continuations, termed the Parade and the New Steyne. The
greater part of the old buildings are comprised in that portion of
the town which lies to the west of this line. The principal streets
here are North, East, Ship, and West Streets. East Clif,
Middle Clif, West Clif, Artillery Place, and Bellevue, face
the sea. To the west of these last is forming a new square,
to be called Bedford Square. On the Steyne are the North
and South Parade, Blue and Bmf Buildings, Steyne Place^
2E2 S(Mk
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116 6t;68EX.
SknUh Row, and Sieyne Row. The itroett and iNuldingt
eafitward of the Steyue are all of modern erection. The prind-
pal of these are, the Marine Parade, St. Jame*'$ Street, High
Street, Edward Street, the New Steyne, the R^al Crexeni,
&c The last^roentioned range, compoeed of lodghig-hoosea, it
one of the greatest ornaments of Brighton.* In the middle of
the enclosed area, in front of the Crescent^ is a statue of the
Prince of Wales, on a plain pedestal, erected at ao expense of
upwards of 3001. His Royal Highness is represented in ths
uniform of his regiment , the attitode is animated, and the like-
ness strong ; but the sculptor has violated all the ndes of his art,
and more particularly the common costom in regard to grace, by
hiding the right arm among folds of dm^ery, and giving to the
left all the energy necessary to express scorn and defiance as
hurled across the deep to that quarter vheace impotent threats
alone have assailed our laughing strands.
The Steyne, an agreeable lawn, dividing the old from the
modem town, is a favorite promenade for the fashionable visiton
of Brighton every evening during the season, when a small, but
select band, performs for their amusement in a neat orehestrs.
It is bounded on the south by the ocean, and surrounded on the
other three sides by handsome edifices or ranges of bnildingv.
The most conspicuous of these is
The Marine PamUon, the summer residence of his Royd
Highness the Prince B^ent, situated at the north-west corner
' of the Steyue, nearly in the middle of the town. It was begun
in 1784» The sea-front, extending about 200 feet, consisted at
first of a circular building, with a lofty dome raised on pillars,
and a range of apartments on each side. Two wings added in
- 1802, complete the proportions of the (ahric At the same time
the
• * It mast certainly have been with a ▼ie\r to encoarage the gratificatioa
of a little harmless curio&ity that the builder furnished all these bouses with
bow-windows ; though, from their sitnatioo ^ith respect to each other, many
persons would be disposed to consider tliii jjecoliarity as no recosuneoda*
tiott,
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117
^e ground toXraris tbe SUyne was laid out as a plantation^
vbich giTes a more finished appearance to the whole. In the
west front, which forms a square with a colonnade in the centre,
18 tile grand entrance to this marine palace. It opens into plea-
sure-grounds, contrived by taking in the road which formerly led
into the town from the north, and the gardens called tlie Pro-
nunade Grove, which were for many years used for public amuse-
ments.
The interior arrangements are in a style of magnificence cor-
responding with the high nuik of the owner. The furniture and
decorations throughout are in the Chinese taste, and perhaps sur-
pass the splendor of every thing of the kind in Europe. The
entrance-hall is liiirty-five feet square, and twenty high. It is
crossed by a light gaHery with an awning, beneath which are
mandarine figures as large as life, each holding a laiithom. . The
anti*room is decorated with nine very fine paintings executed in
China, illustrative of the manners of the people of that country.
The drawing-room contains six pictnres of the same kind, and
communicates with a small apartment, twelve feet long and eight
wide, called the Chinese Lanthom, tlie sides being entiiely com-
posed of glass, stained with representations of the insects, fruit,
flowers, and other oljects peculiar to (]hina. On particular occa-
sions it is brilliantly illuminated on the exterior, and produces
an effect which it is impossible to describe. The Conservatory,
or Music-room, is fifty-feet long, thirty wide, and twenty high.
The roof, painted in imitation of the tea and rose- wood, is sup-
ported by twenty columns, and the sidet are covered with a
superb Chinese historical paper. These apartments occupy that
portion of the building to the south of the entrance-hall. At the
north end is the l^otauda, or Saloon, an oblong of fifty-five feet
The ceiling is admirably executed, and represents a clouded sky,
from which are suspended, by flying dragons, three prodigious
lanthoms, embellished with paintings. The cornice is supported
by columns and pilasters ; and round the dome passes a light
corridor, through the open work of which ^ght dragons appear in
2 B 3 tll«
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ink BV^tXs
tbe ftct of flyings, and each stutpeDds a painted lantlioni of ampler
size than those just meatioBed. Tbe Egyptian Gallery is fifty-
91% feet in length, and twenty wide ; and adjoining to it, al the
northern extremity of the bnilding, is the Banqoeting Soon, of
the same dimenaiona as the Conserratory.
The stables belonging to this princely residrace are aitnated
on the north side of tbe pleasnre^grounds, and are, beyond com-
parison, the most magnificent edifice for such a purpose in Eng-
land. They were boilt under the direction of Mr. Porden> in the
Moorish style of architectare. The strueture consists of a riding*
honse, 200 feet long, and 60 broad, on one side, and a spa-
cious tennis-conrt on the other ; in the centre, a building, octa-
gonal without, circular within, and crowned with a apaeions
dome, contains stabling for upwards of seventy horses. The
entrance is from Church-street^ through a wide lofty arch, into a
krge square court, containing ihe coach-houses, coach-horse
stables, servants' rooms, and offices. Opposite to the entrance
another arched gate-way conducts to a circular area, eighty feet
in diameter, round which are the stables for saddle-horses, open-
ing into it, and receiving light from the dome with which it ia
covered. This area is surrounded by an open gallery, 'which
commands an advantageous view of the whole building. The
dome, crowned with a cupola, attraete general admiration for its
uncommon lightness. Arched gateways on the east and west
sides communicate with the riding-houao and tennis-court ; and
another opposite to the entrance with the pleasure-grounds, where
a green-house, flower-gardens, and other embelHiihments, are
yet wanting to complete the design of the illustrious proprietor.
The other private mausions in Brighton, which have a clum to
particular notice, are Orove^'Hcuse, tbe property of the Duke
of Marlborough, adjoining to the Pavilion; Mn. Fitzker^erfs,
an elegant modem structure, built after a plan of Mr. Foidenj
and Ladtf Anne Murray's, which once belonged to the late
Right Hon. William Gerard Hamilton, to whose judicious im-
provements it owes the beauty of its present external appear-
ance. All these fitce the Steyne.
. The
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The Church dedicated to St Nicholas stands at a small dis-
tance to the north-west of the town^ on a rising ground, abon^
] 50 feet aboTe the level of the sea at low. water. It has a square
tower, containing an excellent ring of eight bells, and a small
spire, cowned with the figure of a dolphin of copper gilt, which
turns as a vane. The interior of the church, no part of which
appears to be older than the time of Henry VII. is plain and
neat, but contains nothing worthy of attention, except the fon^
brought, according to tradition, from Normandy, during the reiga
of the Conqueror. It is of a circular form, and surrounded with
basso-relievos, divided by columns into difiisrent compartments,
each contuniug a representation of a scriptural, or legendary
subject. The largest of these is evidently designed for the LasI
Supper, but with this singularity, that only six of the apostles,
partake of the repast. Some have not scrupled to assign a Saxon
origin to this piece of workmanship.*
In the church-yard, near the chancel-door, is a monumental
stone of black marble, with the following inscription :
"P. M.S."
'^ Captain Nicholas Tettersell, through whose prudence, valour,
and loyalty, Charles II. King of England, after he had escaped
the sword of his merciless rebels, and his forces received a fatal
overthrow at Worcester, September the 3d, Itidl, was faithful! j
preserved and conveyed to France, departed this life the 26th day
of July, 1674,"
2E4 Underneath
• Ao iogsnioas writer^ in the Gentleiiwn't Magazine, (180^0 sfter a can*
Ibl examhiation, bat >tarK«d doabts wbetber a performance of lo early a
period coald powbly remain in sncb excellent preterratton* and dcclarea
tbifl Gonvktioii tbat it it in toaie measare a trick opon antiquaries. From tbe
ftcabneaa of tbe work, and modem initiaU with cbe date 1745« on tbe plintb,
be eonclodei, tbat it was esecated in tbat year, and copied probably from an
original performance of tbe kind belonging eitber to this, or aonte neigbboar-
iog cborcbi and wbicb original bas beeu since destroyed.
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120 8U88BX.
Underneatli is a long poetical epitaph, now so defaced as nol
to be' read without great difficulty ; and alM> inscriptious for his
wife and son, who are interred in the same grave. *
In this church -yard is a handsome monument, erected by Mr.
Kelly, to the memory of Mrs. Crouch of Drury Lane Theatre, who
died at Brighton in 1805, in her 43d year.
The Chapel Royal, situated in Prince's Place, was erected in
1793, on account of the rapid increase of the inhabitants andvisi-
tors; it was finished after a plan of Mr. Saunders, of Golden
Square, Loudon, and will cooTeniently hold a thousand persons.
Besides these religious edifices, Brighton contains meeting*
houses for the Quakers, Presbyterians, Baptists, CalTinistic, and
Arminian Methodists, a Roman Catholic chapel, and a Jewish
synagogue.
Brighton, as might be expected, is amply provided with places
of public amusement At the head of these may be ranked the
T^atre, which stands in the new road between North Street
and Church Street, and was first opened in 1807: the former
play-house in Duke Street having been found inadequate to the
accommodation of the public Th^ audienee part is very hand- .
* It appears that Charles^ after his defeat, wandered over tlie connCrj for
six weeks, and at last found on asylum in the boose of a Mr. Maorrcl at
Oviogdean^ near Brighton. Daring his concealment there bis friends agreed
with Tettersell, who was the master of a coal •brig, to conrey him across the
Channel. The night before his departure be passed at the George Inn in
West Street, (now known by the sign of King Charles's Head,) kept by a nan
named Smith, who soon recognised his royal guest, but bad too much lojalty
to betray binu The following morning, October 15tb, be embarked and
landed the same daj at Fescamp> in Normandy. Soon after the Resto-
ration, Tettersell, probably with a view to remind the king of thb scrTice«
bronght the Tessel, whith had been the means of bit escape, up the Thames,
and moored her opposite to WhitebalL The expedient was soceesafol; an
annuity of 1001. was settlad on him and his heirs lor ever ; hot Ae pajment
of it has been long ditoontioaed^ thovgh it ia believed that the dainsBls afo
not yet extlttctt
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SUSSEX. 1^1
and is fimislied with two tiers of boxes, and m large gal-
lery. The whole is elegantly fitted op, particularly the hex af*
propriated to the Prince. A well eonstmcted cokMinade mns aki^
the whole front of the edifice.
The Royal Circus, situated on the Mariborongh Steyne, is
not only a new building, bat an entirely new e8tablishnient» first
<^pened in 1806, chiefly for the exhibition of horsemanship.
At the CoitU Totem, on the west side of the Steyne, is an
elegant suite of Assembfy^rowms. The ball-rooin forms a rect-
angle eighty feet by forty, with recesses sixteen feet by fonr at
each end and side, dec<Hrated with columns corresponding with
the pilasters continued round the room. The compartments are
adorned with paintings illustrative of the Story of Cupid ami
Psyche, and representations of Nox and Aurora occupy the two
ends. From the ceiling, which is cored, and thirty-fiye feet high,
hang three beautilbl chandeliers.
At the Old Ship Ta»em, in Ship Street, is another set of pub-
lic rooms. The ball-room, though less spacious and splendid than
its rival at the Castle, b large and elegantly furnished, and
adorned with an admirable portrait of Dr. Ru8sel,who is respected
by the inhabitants as the first person that brought Brighton into
general repute. During the season assemblies are held lUternately
at these two houses.
Two libraries, Donaldson's on the east side of the Steyne, and
Walker^s on the Marine Psiade, aflRird an agreeable lounge, while
Raggett s Subscriptym House at the comer of the North Parade,
affords the votaries of gaming every feeility for indulging their fe-
vourite propensity.
Brighton possesses every possible convenience for sea-bathing ;
and though this part of the coast is much exposed, yet that
healthful exercise is liable to little interrnption. Those, how-
ever, who are deterred by the swell from the use of the uncon*
fined element, or invalids who are «nable to struggle with the
wavei, may at all timea enjoy the salutary eieets of immersion
Si comipodiotts Boiks, situated at the lower ptrt of the Sleyne.
Uerc^'
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199 8D88EX*
U&e, on gne side of a handaome Teftibale^ are aix ooU bathip
supplied bjan engine from theses and on the other hot^eveating
and shower-baths.
The town likewise possesses the advantage rf a spring of
Chalybet^e water, which rises about half a mile westward of the
ehorch* Its chemical properties have been investigated and de-
scribed by Dr. Relhaa, Dr. Hamilton^ and other profession^ men;
whose expecimeats have proved that the water conkains calca-
reous earthy mixed with the vitriolic aeid in the form of sole-
nites^ and also a eonsideiahle porfeioii of iron. It has been found
beneficial ia cases of debility, indigestion, and other diseasea
which re^piire tonic remedies; and the proprietors have endoecd
the spring with a neat building, where constant attendance is
given during the sesson.
The Market'house, built in 1734, is neat and convenient. It
is open the whole week except Sunday ; but the principal maiket-
days are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
The wholesale fish-market is held on the bea^ and is sup-
pli^ by about oue hundred boats, to each of ^whieh. on an ave-
rage, three persons ars attached. These eie^lebrated for their
dexterity and resolution, which render them excellent nnriners.
From Hay to the latter end of July, mackarel are caught in great
plenty, and from October to Christmas is the season for henings.
Soles, bhll, aid tnrbot, are common at all seasons of the year;
and dorees, mullets, scate, and whitings, are occasionally very
abundant As Brighton is the nearest cgast to London, great
part of the fish taken here is purchased for the supply of the
metropolis.
Directly fiidng the sonth entrance of die market is the parish
Workhouse, erected in 1733, on the site of a free chapel, or
chantry, built by the Prior of St. Pancras at Lewes, the ground
having been granted to him for the purpose by the lord of th^
manor, under a quit-rent of threepence per annum. To this
chapel, which was dedicated to St. Bartholomew, and has given
its name totheacyacetttpartofthe town, was tttached a habila-
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80MBX« Ids
Itoii for two or three oficiaiing nMokn, who eoAliiMned to resido
there till 1513, vhen the French, hoving made a deaeent on
Ihia coast, pillaged and aet fire to the towii* The chapel waa
partially destroyed hy the flamea; hat the northern extreaitj
of the building which eacaped was sobseqaently fitted up lor
thenae of the vicar, and long dialingniahed hy the appdlaitioa of
the Prtor^s Lodge, In 1790 it waa polled down, and the present
neat and commodiouB Vtcarage^houae erecead. The workoien^.
employed in laying the fonndattona, diacovored aeyeral hiMiaa
akdetons and disjointed bones; similar remaina weie fi>ttnd in
digging the cellars of the houses immediately south of the work-
house, which spot ia tlience conjectured to hare been the prini*
cipal bnrial-place belonging to the chantry. Sir William Borrett
relates, that in 1771, a small bmss figure, apparently a vctire
offering of some person who had escaped from shipwreck, waa
found in digging up the walls of some old buildings eomtigaous to
this ancient cemetery.
Here are three Free Schools, two of which were founded by
private individuals for twenty -four boys each. The third, de-
nominated the Union Charity Scfiool, waa establiahed by pabiic
contribution in 1807. A house capable of holding 300 boys has
been erected in Middle Street, add Lancaster's system of edoca*
tion is adopted with great success. A girls' school, also, upon
that plan was opened in the same street in 1809. Besiden
these institatious there is a Sunday School and School of In*
diutry in Church Street, at which forty-six poor girls are edu-
cated.
The only military defence of this part of the coast is a Battery
of six fbrty-two-pounders at the western extremity of the town.
There waa formerly another at the east end, erected by Henry
VIII. and called the Block House. When first built it stood at
aome distance from the edge of the cli£&; but the continual en-
croachments of the sea having undermined its foundations, it was
removed about fifty years ago.
In the town are Barracks ia Chitroh Street and Weat Street,
the
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U4 SVftSEX.
the former otpable of ftccommodating 320 men» and the latter 191K
At m snail diataoce Irom Brighton, on the Lewes road, are two
flmch more extensile ranges of barracks, erected daring the last
and present war. Those nearest to the town are not perhaps in-
ferior in external appearance and internal accommodation, to any
similar building in the kingdom. Here horse, foot, and artillerj,
•re generally stationed.
On the Downs, about a mile from the extremity of the town, is
a fine Raee'Course, with a stand capable of containing a con-
siderable nomber of spectators. The races, which take place
either in July or August, are well attended by persons of the
highest distinction. Prom the height of the ground, which is
near 400 feet above the level of the sea, it commands prospects
highly dtrersified, and so extensive as to embrace the Isle of
Wight
At a little distance from tiie race-ground is Wkite^hawk Hiii,
on the summit of which a iignal-house, erected dnringHhe last
war, forms part of the chain that runs along the coast from Do-
ver to Portsmouth. Prom some traces of an encampment stiH
visible on this hill, it is supposed to have once been a Roman
station.
On HoUingbury Castle Hill, about two miles north of Brigh*
ton, are also evident marks of a circular encampment, containing
several tumuli, in' which skeletons, detached bones, and a fewRo«
man coins have at different times been discovered. On this hill
is a Ftre-heacon to convey signals of alarm, if necessary, during
the night.
CUCKFIELD,
a small pleasant town, is situated on a rising ground nearly in the
centre of the rape, and indeed of the whole count}', forty-six
* miles south of London, and'fonrteen from Brighton, on the mid-
dle and shortest road to that fashionable watering-place. The
parish contains 290 houses^ and 1700 inhabitants. The town
has
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h«i a weekly market -on Friday, tlie charter lor which waa grantod
by James II. and fairs on WhitpThnrsday and September 16^
This manor, in the early period of the English monarchy, be-
longed to the Earls of Warren and Surrey, one of whom obtained
of King Edward II. a charter for a market and a &ir at tUa
place. On the death of that nobleman withojit issae, CnckfieU,
with other large estates, was inherited by his sister, the Coun-
tess of Anindel, and carried by heat into the noble fiunily of Fttz-
alan.
The Ckureh is a spacions handsome building, adorned with a
lofty spire, which, from its elevated situation, haying been se-
veral times damaged by lightning, is provided with an electric
condactor to secure it from farther injury. It contains nnmenms
monuments of several distinguished fiunilies, especially of the
Bnrrells^ the ancestors of Lord Gwydir and Sir Chariea Merriek
Burrell, for many of whom there are memorials from the time
of Dr. Gerard Burrell, who was Archdeacon of Chichester^
and vicar of this parish. Amoqg those of later years, which
are only cenotaphs, is a marble tablet by Flaxman, in com-
memoration of Sir William Burrell, Bart, a gentleman weH
known for his industry in collating materials illustrative of the
history, antiquities, and topography, of this county *. Here alio
are interred many of the Sergisons of Cuckfield Place ; among
others there is a handsome monument for Charies Sergison, Esq.
who was a commissioner of the navy during the reign of Que^
Anne ; and a tablet, finely executed by Westmacott, for the lady
of the late Colonel Sergison.
A Free Grammar School for the instruction of youth in the
Latin language was founded at Cuckfield, in the time*of Queen
Elizabethy by the munificence of private individuals ; and a
housh
* Sir 'William wu the younger brother of Lord Gwydir. In 1754 be was
elected a Fellow of the Royal and Antiquarian Societies, and in 1774 ap*
pointed a Commissiooer of Excise. On the decease of Sir Charles Raymond,
Bart, whose daughter be had married, be succeeded to the title, and at bis
death, in 1796, bequeathed bis Tolominous collection to the British Museum*
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196 SUSSEX.
iurase mm sAsnraidB liailt for the masUr, at tks expenie of Isify
Dorothy Bhiiley.
Cuck^Ud Place, erected in the latter |wrt of the aateesth
eeatoryy staada about half a mile aoath of tiie tetwn, in a pio-
taresqae sitaatieo, annoanded mth a park* The approaeh ia
ftom the hifh niad to Brightoo by a spadons graveUwalk^ bor-
dered with noble trees to the gate-hoase, which opens iato a
court leading to the principal entrance of the jnaaaien. Here
ia an apartment called the Ship Roam, from Tarioua models of
ahipa thai an depaaited in it Onckfield Place waa for many
yean the aeat of the S^gis<ma, to whom also belonged Butler's
Oreem, another mansion aboat a mile eastward of the town ; bat
at the death of Colonel Sergison, in ldll2» these^ with other pos-
sessions, defolred to his sister, the wife of the Rot. William St
PntchanL
LBW£8,
an ancient boioQgb and market town, which holds the second
rank in this county for extent and popalatten, stands on the
border of the South Downs, about Ibrty-nine miles from London,
and eight from Brighton. Its situation on a declivity washed .
by the Ouse^ surrounded by an amphitheatre of higher hills, is
more than commonly beautiful, and highly favourable to com-
merce. In 1801, it contained 684 houses, and 4422 inhabilants,
whose number had, in ISl I, increased to mpwarda of 7000.
Lewes is a borough by prescription, having retamed.two mem-
bers to Parliament ever since 23 Edward L The right of. elec-
tion is vested in the bbabitants paying scot and lot, in number
about 390. Though not incorporated, Lewes lays claim to some
■ particular privileges, and the town records afibrd satis&ctory
evidence of its having formerly possessed powers similar to those
of a corporation, having then been governed by a body of twelve,
and another of twenty four persons with two constables at their
d head.
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Bmnts Wt
hetA. Under the latter title the two chief mimieipal oflkere are
atill annually elected at the eoort-leet
That Lewes is a place of high antiquity the nnmeffona relies
discovered in the town and neighhonrfaood, as well as its architec-
tural remains^ sufficiently attest The probability that here was
tiie site of the Roman station^ known by the name of Muiwm'
ionis, or Manttmionis, has already been diacnssed. Antiqaaries
are not agreed respecting the origin of the modern appellation
which the fetber of English topography derives from the Saxon
Lewsa, signifying pasinres ; but it is wondorlul how any difler-
ence of opinion could exist on this subject We are infomiedy
that in ancient times the valley to the north and south of the
town was one continued lake : hence the Latin denomination of
LaquU, given to it in the Domesday Survey ; and hence also
the names of the town and of the river, both of which are but
corruptions of the equivalent French word Eaux, Here then
was the only communication between the east and west divisi<ma
of the territory of the Regni ; and during the ravages d the
Danes this place served as a refuge to the inhabitants of tiie dis*
trict^ and as a bulwark against the invaders. In the tenth cen-
tury Athelstan directed two mints t6 be established at Lewes
while the capital of the county had but one; and in the time of
Edward the Confessor, this town, as the Norman Survey informs
ns, paid 61. 4s. for tax and toll to the king, who had here 127
burgesses. Among the customs peculiar to the place at this
time we find the following: whoever bought or sold a horse in
the borough was required to give the chief magistrate one penny,
for an ox or a cow an hal^>enny, and for a man fourpence. For
the shedding of blood was imposed a fine of 7s. ; for taspe and
adultery 8s. 4d. with the forther proviso in the latter case that
the king should have the adulterer, and the archbwhop the wo-
man *. Of these payments two thirds went to the king, and the
other third to the Earl.
When
, * Jdag, Brit* Yt 512. The regulatioos of oar aBceiton for the pravcDtioa
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128 fiDSSEX.
When William the Conqiumr had sealed hiaaelf on the Brttisli
throne, be gave this town and krdahip to hU son-in-law, William
de Wanren, Earl o( Sorrey, who bnilt a Castle^ or, aa some con-
jecture, repaired a fortress already erected here, fud made it the
principal sent of his barony. This he afterwards divided into
sixty-two kaights-fees, many of which he bestowed on his Norman
friends and followers, reserving for himself the town and castle.
In hia family they continued for several generations, till, in the
reign of Henry III. John, Earl of Warren^ having forfeited hia
estates fm* aome misdemeanor, this manor, with some other lord-
ships, was given to the queen's uncle, Peter de Savoy } bat again
restered to the anceeasor of the former owner, as a reward for hia
adherence to the royal cause. On his deaths without issue, hia
sister, Alice, became his heir; and, by marriage to Edmund
Fita-Alan, Earl of Arundel, carried the estate into that family.
After various changes of proprietors, through attainders and new
grants,- Uiis lordship became divided early in the fifteenth centnry,
and has never since been united in one person.
The CattU, of an irregular oval figure^ stood on the east side
4»f the town. The gr^t gate-way, or entrance, which was some-
what advanced before the walls of the castle on the south side, is
yet entire. It was defended by two towers on its south front,
had also machicolations, and on the side next the castle two
portottllises and a tower, in which is a staircase leading to a room
that has recently been fitte4l up for the meetings of a lodge of
Free-masons. This gatevray is of mixed architecture; the inner
arch having every appearance of Saxon origin, while the outer is
of the more modern style of Henry III. At the extremities of
the longest diameter of the area of the castle, which runs nearly
north-east and south-weat, are two ctrcufaur artificial mounts for
keeps. Of the eastern keep a small fragment only remains; and
the western is fast yielding to the ravages of time. The latter,
wh«Gh
of adultery teem to ha^e beeti mach better calculated to prodace the de-
sired efiect than those of the present day, when that crime is treated as a
cif il offinice, ior which peconiary coatpensatloA alone can be demanded.
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si;s$£X. 199
which was qoadraagoiar, wkh a hexagonal tower at «acb cor*
net, dimmishing upward, commandii m wide aod highly diversi-
fied prospect From this building extend immense earth-works^
with two ditches, oo the inner bank of which are some niiBed
walls. These works, at their north-west comer, embrace a small
camp, of a long oval figure, whose north aod west sides they for*
tify. The north side of the great inclosnre, being defended by a
marsh, is single-trenched ; the east and south sides retain their
original form, distinct from the later works, which are very
high ; while the others are barely discoTerable in the meadows.
The east side is lost, except a small portion which may be
traced where it fiills into the little camp. The double keep,
termed in old writings Braymounis, is a feature peculiar to this
castle. Between the keeps is a bowling-green and timber-
yard; and the western rampart is cut through by a road leading
to the downs, across a field corruptly called Walling, for WaWt
End^ where, according to tradition, a bh>ody battle wasi fought
with the Danes, who were defeated, and whose king, or captain,
Magnus, was taken prisoner. Mr. Gongh suggests,^ that the
small camp mentioned aboTe might have been constructed on.
this occasion, prior to tbe erection of the castle by tlie Earl
of Warren. The property is divided between the Earl of
Abergavenny and the Dukes of Norfolk and Dorset, one half
belonging to the former, and a quarter to each of the latter. In
1774, tbe site and rnimi were leased for ninety-nine years to Mr.
Thomas Friend, who, at his death, bequeathed his interest in
them to his nephew, Mr. Thomas Kemp^
In 1078 a Pr%<m/, the first and chief house of the Cluniae
ordi^r in England, was founded here by the first Earl of Warrei^
and his wife, Qundreda, the fifth daughter of William tlie Con-
queror. The history of its foundation is in substance thus related
in tbe charter. The earl and his lady being on a pilgrimage to
Rome, visited several religious houses in France in ordei to oflfer
vp their prayers. Proceeding into Buigundy, they were there
you XIV. 2 F informed
• Cough'f CsmdcD, Vol. I.
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IM 8CS8EX.
informed that they coald not iviih safety prosecnte their journey,
00 account of a war between the pope and the emperor ; where-
fore^ toming aside, they went to the monastery of Cluni^ then in
high repnte for its extraordinary sanctity. Here they witnessed
such devotion, humility, and charity in the monks^ and fomid
snch an honourable and kind reception, that they began to en-
tertain a love and veneration for the order in general, and for that
hoQse in particnhir. Being already determined, by the persna-
sion of Arehbishop Lanfranc^ to found a religious house, they
applied to the abbot for three or four monks for the intended mo-
nastery, promising to endow it with a sufficiency for the support
of twelve monks, aud to bestow on them the church of St. Pan-
eras under the castle of Lewes, which church the earl found con-
structed only of wood, bat had rebuilt with stone. The abbot did
Itot at ^nt lend a favourable ear to the proposal, objecting to tha
great distance, and the dangers of the sea ; but, at length, yield-
ed to the intreaties of the earl, on condition that he would, by
deed, make over the promised estates, and also to procure ^he
king's licence and confirmation. Till this was done, he would
not suffer any of his monks to set out. These preliminaries being
accomplished, four monks departed for fiugland, and were not
long established before they began tb huVd a vifew to independ-
ence, representing, to their patro(), that in 'condd6ration of tlie.
dangers to which he was daily exposed from the commotions In
the kingdom, owing to the accession of 'William Rnfns, it would
be right to give the prior and brethren of St Paucras new
grants and charters for their lands, the former deeds being depo-
sited in the abbey of Cluni. This he accordingly did, and pro-
tfUeA for them the confirrnattbn of the king.
Grose, ftom whom the preceding account is taken, enumerates
^he lands, clTurches, and other possesions with which this priory
was endowed by the founder, who, hoth in the body and at i\it
conclusibn of his charter, imprecates ^DiviYie'>ehgeance against
any of his heirs who should dhniiifclf or hmnge th^se donatioAS,
loading them, according to his own expression, with eveijr curse
o ' * which
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st;s9£x. 131
%hich & fatlier can denounce against wicked children ; but tbose
who ptieseTTe and defend it^ with every blessing that a parent
can bestow on his dutifal and virtoous offspring.
The prior of Lewes^ on particular occasions^ claimed the privi-
lege of being high«cliamberlain to the abbot of Cluni ; and was
o^n his vicar-general in England, Scotland^ and Ireland.' On
that foreign convent* this house continued dependent till 47
Edward III. who, in consideration of the surrender of certain
dinrches to him and his heirs, made it an indigenous, or nativa
priorj, and discharged it from all impositions, to which, as ai
alien, it had been liable. At the request of Richard, Earl of
Arundel, he extended this naturalization to the subordinate cells,
whfoh were the priories of Castle Acre, Prittlewell, FHrleigh,
HortOtt^ and Stanegate, on condition that the stipends, which tliey
were bound toconl[ribute to foreign religious houses, should in
ftttore be paid to tbe king.
In the chapter-house of this priory were interred many persons
^ distiilclion. The uttnifieent founder, who died in the year
1089, was here buried under a monument of white marble, ami
celebrated by the monks in this inscription :
Hie GuilMrae Comes locos est laodis tibi fomos,
Uttjtts fundator et largus Sedis amator.
Iste tttum faiius decorate pUcuit quia, monusj
Paupcribiis Cbristi, quod prompu mente dadisti.
lUe tttos cineras sarvat Paiicralaas heves,
Sauctorum castris qui te sociabit in astris.
Optiroe Paucrati fer opem te glorificanti,
Daque poli sedem tolem tibi qui dedit xdcm.
This was also the burial-place of Gnndred, his countess, and
many of their descendants, among whom w^ere the second, fourth,
afth, and sixth Earls of Warren. In 49 Edward III. Richard
Fitx-Alan, Earl of Arundel, by his will, bequeathed his body to *
be deposited in this chapter-house, near the tomb of his wife,
Eleanor of Laucaster. He also directed 2001. Vo be laid out in
2F2 thji
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Ids SUSSEX.
the purchase of Itiids for the monks of Lewes ; or else oBe or tw»
churches to be appropriated to the monastery for the maintenance
of two monks to celebrate two masses daily for the seals of his
father and mother, his wife, with their children and aiccessoiB,
and all Christian people, iu the chapel of St. Thomas the Martyr
iu that house, or in the chapel of Our Lady on the north of the
great church.*
Some idea may be formed of the extensive scale of this esta-
blitthment, from the, circumstance that its walls embraced an area
of near forty acres ; and, from the description of the church pre-
served by Willis, we may reasonably condnde that the buildings
were not less remaiicable for magnificence than for ext^it The
particulars given by that writer are prefaced with this remark :
" The dimensions of this magnificent church, retomed by the com-
missioiiers, is, as I conceive, a great cariosity ; and it b pity that
those of the rest of our monasteries, at least as many as have
been t»ken in like manner, were not thoroughly searched in our
offices and published. These dimensioiis, witlta letter wrote to
Cromwell, I shall subjoin, as I took them from a book in the
Cottonian library : —
* Sussex, March, 24, 1538. My lord, I humblie commend me
to your lordship. The last I wrote to your lordship was the 20th
day of this present month by the hands of Mr. Williamson, by the
which I advertised your lordship of the length and greatness of
this church and sale, we had begun to pull the whole down to the
ground, and what manner and fashion thet used in pulling it down.
I told your lordship of a vault on the right side of the high alter,
that was borne with four pillars, having about it £ve chapels*
which be compassed in with the walls, 70 stepys of length, thai
is, feet 210. All this is downe Thursday and Friday last Now
we ar i> plucking down an higher vanlte, borne up by 4 thick and
gross I illars, 14 foot from side to side, about in circumference
45 feet. This shall down fi>r our 2d work. As it goeth forward
I will advise your lordship from time to time, that your lordship
• Dugd&le's Bar. p. Sl8.
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SUSSEX. I9S
mtcy know with how many men we have done this. We branght
from London 17 persons^ 3 carpenters, 2 mmithk, 2 plummers,
and one that keepeth the furnace. Every one of these attendelh
to his own office; 10 of them heweth the walls about; among the
which are the 3 carpenters. These made props to underset where'
the other cut away; the other brake and cut the walls. These
men are exercised much better than other men that we find here
in the country. Wherefore we must both have more men and'
ether things also that we have need of. All the which I shall
within these two or three days shewe your lordship by mouth.
A Tuesday they began to cast the lead, and it shall be done with'
such diligence and saving as may be ; so that our trust is that
your lordship shall be much satisfied with what we do. Unto'
whom I most humbly commend myself much desiring God to'
maintain your health, your honour, your heart's ease. Af Lewes
March 24, 1637. Your Lordship's servant,
' John Portmanis.'
' Underneath here your lordship shall see a just measure of
the whole abbey : length of the church 150, height 63 foot; the
circumference about it 1558 foot; the wall of the fore-front thick
10 foot. The thickness of the vaulte 4 foot. There be in th»
diurch 33 pillars standing equally from the walls-*^-an high roof
made for the bells — 8 pillars very high, thick 13 foot, about 45
ibot Th' other 24 are for the most part 10 foot thick and 25
about. The height of the greater sort is 42 foot. Of th' other
18 foot The height of the roof before the high alter is 93 foot
The height of the steeple at the front is 90 foot.''
At the surrender of this house, in 1529, its revenues were va-
lued, as Dngdale informs us, at 9201. 4s. 6d. ; but, according to
Speed, at 10911. 9s. 6d. The site was first granted 29 lleury
Vlll. to Thomas Lord Cromwell ; and 2 Elizabetli to Richard Baker
and Richard Saokville. The huildings, it is presumed, were not
wholly demolished at the Dissolution, for the priory was some-
time inhabited by the Earls of Dorset, and thence received I he
2 F 3 appellation
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134 SUSSEX.
appellation of the Lord^$ Place. It Was at length destroyed by
iire, but the precise time of this accident is not ascertauied.*
The priory estates came into the possession of the Thanet fiunii j
by the marriage of John Tuflon, Earl of Thanet^ with Margaret*
the daughter and heir of Richard Sackville, Earl of Dorset. Iti
1709 the site of the priory was sold^ together with the manor^,
borough^ or lordship of Southover, to Nathaniel Trayton, Esq.
of Lewes, whose son bequeathed it to Samuel Durant, Esq.
From the industry employed at the Dissolution^ in breaking
and cutting, and the destructive effects of the conflagration^ verj
small remains of this once stately pile now exist. Within th^ walla
we fiad only the shells of some apartmeuts, a cloister, with mde
' massive vaulted roof«^, the side of the hall under which rnns a
clear stream, an oven seventeen feet wide ; and the piers of the
gate« with the posterns, having clustered round pillars of Sussex
marble, some of which are adorned with nail*headed qnatrefoils.
North north-east of the ruins is a large mount, reported to have
been thrown up by one of the Earis of Dorset, lest he should
be overlooked by a brother living at Lewes, with whom he
was at enmity. Towards the south-west was a large bnck
pigeon-house in the form of a cross, built probably wbeu
the priory was inhabited by the Dorset fiaunily, and containing
recesses for more than 3000 pair of doves. One end ooly is now
left, the rest having been recently taken down, and the materials
sold. Groae observes, that " in several of the main walls .of
these ruins are square spiracles continoed from one end to the
other, and, by the Vulgar, considered aa contrivanoes of the monks
for
4 The probability is, tbat it happened early in the seventeenth century.
The portrait of an Earl of Dorset* preserved in the Newton family, has al-
wtys been considered as representing him io whose time the building wm
bomed. On one side is an earl's coronet, with tbe Dorset arms, and on the
other 1608>,the year when the picture was paiated. An ancestor of the
Newtons, who was steward to the EarU of Dorset^ and died in 1648, '» said
to have erected the family mansion in Soulhover with Caeo stone broogh^
lironi the priory after the fire«
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for placing off 9onie juggliDg tricks or miracleiv hoi- realty in«
tended to &cilitate the drying of tbe walk ; a very neooiaarf
considerationi especially in walls of such extniordiiiary tUckima
as were commoply made for religious houses.''*
Besides the priory of St. Pauoras^ Lewes^ ia said' by aoma
wril«ra to .liave bad a priory of Grey Friirs^ a OMoaatery dodit
cated to St. James, and a hospital to St. Nicholas. This state*
inent, how^¥ei^ seeevia to be erroueouitn aawa find qa- aatbeaUo
accouut of .any of tbesc.iustitujtions. So lauoh ^^peara oaitaio^
that near the gate^of the monaslefy, as Tannor ioferinstts^ tiiera
was a hospital for thirteen popr breihran and sisters, dediealad la
St. Jam^, wl^ich is called by Leiaad, in his ColUoi^mea, a cell to
the priory of Lewes. . The name of the fauadar^ the vahie ef the
estates belonging to the hospital, and the manner in which Ihey
were disposed of at the DissoluUeo, cannot now be aseertaiaedt
The walls of this edifice were from time to time pulled dawn, and
carried away for the sake x>f the stonef^ so that in Gfoaa'stiaia
nothing was standing but the chancel of the chapel, then used as
a granary and stable. From aai^ information aa be eeald pm«
cure on the spot, it was concluded that this chapel mast hatia heea
a large regular build^ig, composed of a naye, two side aisles» and
a chancel. On th^ north side of it might be traced the faandatien
of another buildipg, perhaps the cells of the iomatea of the hoe*
pital, forming .a right-angled pasailelogram sixty feet long, and
eighteen brg^d-f
Lewes was oji^uie strongly fortified ^ apd yealigea of intiend^
meats are yet visible, particularly on tbe north and sonth mdes of
the town. Though there are no apparent tokens of walls, yet the
piers of the west gate were till lately standing. It is supposed
to have been built by John, eighth Earl of Warren, in the time
el Edward IH. who granted tlie townsmen murage for five yeara
to repair the walls as Henr^ IlL had done seventy years before
f^t the desire of his grandfather.
2F4 Before
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186 SUSSEX.
Before the RefoniMttioii, this town, iodeding the suhirbs of
Se«thover and the Clifle^ eompreh^nded tivelte parish ehnrches,
which have since been reduced to half the nnmber. These are. Sir.
Peter^M and St Mary Wettmti, formerly two parishes, but now
generally called St. Amu", St. Michael m Fwro, St. John tub
Castro, All SahUi, St. John Baptist, Soutiaver, and St. 3%o-
mas m the Vlife.
The most remaifcaUe of these is the clrorch of St. John sub
Castro, situated in the middle of the small oval camp already
BMBtioaed in the descriptioB of the castfe.* It is very ancient,
consistiBg of the nave only of the original building. The arcfai*
toctnre is rude; and the south flint wail apparently of the tamo
date as the mins of Uiat which surrounded the area of the castle.
In some places the stones are laid in the herring-bone frshion, an
in the castle of GuiWord. These circumstances, together with
the entrance at the west end by a deqi descent of seven or eight
steps^ and the remains of the lights near the roof, now filled up,
afod evidence of a Saxon origin. The south portal is fonned by
a very auoient Saxon arch, but obscured by a mean modem porA.
The steeple is of later date than the rest of the building, and of
different workmanship. This eburch, as it is believed, was origi-
nally coustnioted in the shape of a cross, with the tower in the centre.
Some vestiges of the chancel may still be traced; aiMl the nmrka
of the formerroof, which was higher than the {Hreaent, are visible
on the tower. Camden describes this edifice as ruinous^ and over-
grown with brimbles. It was afterwards contracted and repaired
probably in 1039, as a snail stone tablet, with that date, is fixed
near
* Some labottren digging chtik in a bank thirty feel hi|^, near the north*
etst corner of thi« churcb-yan|» found a brass fiboia, of ciroaUr fona, which
had been gilt at id stadded. It waa composed of two thin plates of brass,
somewhat more tlian two-tenths of an inch broad, nnited by a small conca?e
hpop. The stud« were cut oif to come at the inscription, which is in old
Bnglish characters on the upper ciicla : Am Herte grocui plea. At the
distance of about fifteen feet a hvmia, fkeletoo was discovered— iSir HllUam
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S0S9SX. Idf
near the porch in the south wall oyer two names, perhaps tlioMe
of the church-wardens rudely cot and ttnooitthly spdt. The
style of the repairs^ particalariy on the north front, where the
parts of the old wall which had fallen down are replaced with
alternate squares of stone and flint, corresponds with the ahove
dale.
What ehiefly engages the attention of the curious in this
church is an inscription copied hy Camden, and conoeraing which
a contemporary* gites ns this ftrther information: " The
auncient monument truly described by Mr. Camden was placed in
the eifcumference of the channeel door of 8t John's Church,
which channeel was pulled down in 1587, and the monument de-
iaced. That which is now to be seen in the south wall of that
church was collected out of the mines so many as could be found
and supplyed and fixed where they now stand, by such as were
lovers and fovourers of antiquities/' This inscription, which
still occupies the same place on the outside of the south wall,
is of the monumental kind and semieircnlar, being cut on fifteen
stones of diflerent sizes. The characters on the first, second,
third, and fourth, are modem, probably engraved when they were
last set up to replace others destroyed by time or accidents. The
twelfth stone is of later date than the remaining ten, which are
very ancient, the characters. being Saxon, mdely and deeply ett«
graved. The diameter of the semicircle, indnding the two ex.
treme ends of the stones is seven feet nine inches. Within it sfn
ancient grave-stone, bearing the figure of a cross, which had long
lain in the belfry, has been inserted in an upright position. The
inscription may be thus read :
Claadttur hie Miles, Danonim regit proles
Mangnus nomen ei, MangDs nota progenicl ;
Deponens Maognnro, le moribns indait agnnm,
Frepete pro rita, fit panralos aochorita.
These
* Mr. Rowe, steward to Edward Lord BergaTenny, from 1597 to 16Sf , ia
his MS. CoUcctioos quoted by Sir WUliam Bwfeii
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SSI . sirs«sx.
, Tliese imeft may be thiic reoder^ i*^" Hei« lies a soldier ^f Ibe
KOfal race of Denmark, vbose name Mangiuw denotes his noble
lineage ; laying aside bis grea^noss, he assumed a lamb-Uke de»
porUnent, changing a busy KIs for that of a humble. anchorite."*
A drawing of thia corions moamnent was laid befoie the So-
ciety of Antiquaries, who were of opinion, from the characters of
fhe inscription^, that it was: executed: about the time * of Edward
ill. i but thai no certain ludgment could be formed reqpccting the
age of the gmve^stone/ the &shioo of which varied according t»
the fancy of the workman^ or his employers.
Coaoeming the person for whom this memorial was designed
nothing is known with precision* According to Mr. Elliott^ a
correspondent of Sir William Surreirs, t ^bo most generally re-
ceived opinion is, that Magnus was the youngest of the |hrae
sous by the first wife of King Harold U. whose mother Githa was
a Daniab princess, sister of Sweyne^ the successor of Hardica-
nute. After the Norman Conquest Harold's sons, Edmund^
Godwin^ and Ifagmis, fled to Ireland, and« about 1069j made a de-
scent upon the English coast, after which tht^y were never heard
of. It seems by no means difficult to reconcile this account
with the tradition recorded by Grose, that Magnus was a Danish
geuf%ralj and commanded a large party of his countrymen, who
made an incursion into these parts, in which expedition all bis
men were slain, and himself, being wounded and taken prisoner,
was so kindly treated tiiat he became a convert to Christianity,
or at least, if before a Christian, he then embraced tiie life of
an anchorite ; but the story adds, that his wounds soon brought
him to the grave. The field called tiie Walling, already men*
tioned, is said to have been the spot where the engagement hap-
pened.
Over
* " It seems singDlar," reroarki Mr« Giose, ** that thongh'tbe sole conceit
•f this panning inscription tarns oa the word Magnus, yet no such word 'n
to be found in the whole epitaph, the name of the deceased being spelt
MANONUf, and the same onlacky n intervening between the a and Oj^ in
^Tcry QSsc/' ilntiQ. V. t&k
tMSS.iatbeBriLMs«.
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Orer the eomnanioii-taUe n « good piati«re» in tke style of
Bemhrandt The subject is the Presentatioa of Young Children
.to ovr Saviour. It was given abont 1761» by John Cvofts^ E«q«
execntor to the widow of Captain Pawlet^ by vhon. it is rsportoA
to have been taken in a prize at sea.
St. John's Sauthov^r, though it has been eontraoted at the
east end, is yet a large church, standing dose to the gate of the
priory. The tower was erected during the last eantury. In the
wall is inserted a stone which is supposed to have belonged to
the old conventual churchy from the drcnoislnnce of its having b^
oeatb a mitre, the Letters T. A. to denote that it was osAsecFated
by Archbishop Theobald. In the window over the altar am some
coats of arms in painted glass.
On the wall of the south aisle is a merUe tfdilet, placed there
fty the late Sir William Burrell, with this inscription :
Within tliis pew stands the tomb-stone
of Ovin>H to, daogbter of WiHiBm tbe
ConqcMror, «ad wife of Willism the §nt ^
EmI of Warren* w*^ fasving b«fB depMit'.
over her reinuns in the Chspt«r»house
of Lewes Priorj) and lately discovered
in Isfield Church was removed
to (his place at the ezpence
* of WiHiam Burrell £sqC.
A. D. 1715.
This stone, of black marble, was found under a monument of
the Shirleys at Isfield, and exhibits the following remains of an
epitaph of monkish composition:
Stirps Gondreda docum, deeos evi nobile germen,
Intulit ecdesiis Anglorum balsama norom:
Martha fait miaeris ; foit ex pietato Maria.
Pars obitt Marthe, soperest pars magna Marie.
O pie Pancrati, testis pietittit et equi*
Te fedt beredem ; tu clenens soscipe matreau
Sexta kalendarom Jonii loz obvia csmis
ffregit alsbastri,..* •••• ...1 ••••,.«•
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140 StSCBX.
Alt Sah^ii, al the top of the High Street, it a new edifice of
brick> with stone rustio qaotns, built under Ibe direction of Mr.
Witde, on the rite of the M church, which was taken down
in 1800 *• Lower down the High Street is St. Mickaei in Foro,
which, being very ruinous, was reboilt in 1766. The front has
heen much admired for its neatness. Si, Peter and St. Mary,
Westoui, codunoniy called St. Ann's, was repaired in 1776. AD
the preceding are rectories. Si. Thomas in the Liiffe, a pecu-
liar of the Arehbisbop of Canterbury, is accounted one of the
neatest pariah chupohea in the county; the altar in particular is
reflnrinUy elegaiit. The snbarb in which it stands was named
fton its situation under a chalky diff, whose foot is washed by the
Ouse.
There are sereiml religtous edifices for Dissenters in Lewes.
The Presbyterian Meeting-honse, formerly the Bull Inn, was
originally built for the town residence of George Goring, Esq.
whose monument in Si. Michaels, was remoTed when that church
was rebuilt It stands close to the site of the west gate, the
ruins of which were some years since taken down. The Qudberi
have a meeting-house in Friar's Walk, the Arminian Methodists
in St Mary's Lane, and the General Baptists in Southover. In
the Cliflfe ia a place of worship for the Particular Baptists, a
chapel erected under the patronage of the late Countess of Hunt-
ingdon, and another for the Cabonusts.
The Shire Hall in the High Street is a new building, planned
with equal attention to elegance and convenience. Here the
Summer Assizes for the county and the Quarter Sessions for its
eastern
0 In prcpftriog to lay U^ fbtuidationi of the new church it was foand ne-
eestafy to diatnrb the repoaitoriei of the dead. Amonc the rest a ieaden cof*
txk was taken op x when opened it exhibited the complete akeletoo of a hody
which had been interred aboat sixty years, and the legs and thigh-booes of
which were cofered with myriads of » ipecies of fly, perhaps uskiiowu to nv
tnraiists* es active and i^rong on the wiag as gnats on s suipmer eveoijigi
though the lead was perftctly sound, and had not the sassUest crevice for the
•dmission of air.
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SUSSEX* 141
eastern dinsion are regularly heM. The old.tow&*Iii|li,. trliick
was erected in 1761, stood a litde to the southvard of this edi-
fice ID the very centre of the principal street ; a situation which
caased it to be justly considered as a public nuisance.
The Horue of Correction, built about 1794, on. the plan re-»
commended by Howard^ contains thirty*two^ cells, a chapd, and
other siccommodBtions for the prisoners, besides the apartments of
the keeper. The regulations of this gaol are calculated .to pro-
mote the comfort and cleanliness of the prisoners, and reflect cre-
dit on the keeper, and. the magistrates.
- The Free Grammar School was originally established in 1512,.
by Mrs. Agnes Morley of Southover, but in 1706 was removed to
St. Ann's, in consequence of a legacy bequeathed by Mrs. Mary
Jeukius. The salary arises from the rents of houses, and an
annuity issuing out of the neighbouring manor of Hamsey.
Lewes has a neat Theatre, which has of late years been con*
siderably enlarged and imptoyed, and Assemblies are frequently
held during the winter in the rooms of the Star Inn. For the
convenience of such as delight in more vigorous exercise a spa-
cious Bowling-green has long been kept up within the precincts
of the castle.
A Ubrary. Society was established here in 1 786. From a very
ssBall beginning it has gradually acquired such importance as to
possess an excellent collection, which is deposited in a room lately
fitted up for the purpose by Mr. Baxter, bookseller.
The meetings of the Sussex Agricultural Society^ instituted in
1796, are held at Lewes. The shew of cattle for the premiunis
ofifered by it generally takes place in the beginning of August,
and is numerously attended by the gentlemen 'and farmers of this
and the neighbouring counties.
TheJUkrket is daily supplied with necessaries. for the table,
but Satufday is the market-day for com. There are two fairs
for black cattle, on May 6, and Whit Tuesday, and a sheep fair
on the 2d of October. This last, which draws together from fifty ;
I to
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149 nvuntx^
to eighty tbomaad simp was fanilerly kept in'the CliStt, M^e«
•icoouiit of its extraordinary inoreasey is now held near the bv
racks.
The air of Lewes is considered very salnbrions. The tova^
from Hs declivity of site, is remarkably dean ; the streets are in
general spacious, weU lighted, and watched. The river Oasey
which runs tbrongh Hie town nnder a handsome bridge, is navi«
gable for barges to the distance of six miles up the country, and
a^rds a ready commnnioation witii the harbour of Newhaven at
its mouth. The increase of its tnde of late years has been pro*
{wrtionaite to that of its population ; and two respectable hanks
facilitate the Cransaction of business.
On a hill about a mite from the town is the Raee-cowrte, ao*
connted one of the befi>t in England. A eommodious stand, com*
mandiug a view of nearly the whole course, was erected by snb-*
scription in 1772. The races, nsnally held in the first week of
August, continae three days, on the first of which the king's
plate of 100 guineas is ran for, if the weather permit, and thenf
be horses qualified to start for it.
This hill was the scene of an obstinate battle fought on the
14th of May 1264, hetween Henry III. and the army of the
barons under Simon de If ontfort, Eari of Leicester. The royal
forces were divided into three bodies ; the right was entrusted to
Prince Edward, the left to Henry's hrother, Richard, Earl of
Cornwall, King of the Romans, while Henry htoiself headed the
centre. Montfort formed his troops into four divisions: one of
these he commanded in person, the second was led by his son,
the third hy the Eari of Gloaoester, and the fourth composed
of Londoners, hy Nicholas Segrave*. Prince Edward, hunring
with impatience to revenge the insnlts ofifered to the ^een, Int
mother, hy the populace of London, atta^ed Aese last with maA
impetuosRy, that they imme&ttdy fled, and were pursoed with
great slaughter. Jf ontfort, taking advantage of Umb sepantion,
vigorously charged the remaining divisions of the royal army,
wluoh
* Sec " Beauties^" Vol. X. p. Ut, l^t.
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wtiicli he pat to the rout. The king and his brother were taken
prisoners^ and cobdncted to the priory. The castle was «lill iu
the possession of a body of the royal troops, who were joined by
many of tlie fagitives from the field ; bat finding the town in tht
power of the victorions barons, and themselves sorroonded en
all sides, they threw' down their arms, and surrendered at dis-
cretion. At length Prince Edward, returning in triumph from
the pursuit of the Londoners, learnefd with amazement the fete of
his father atid uncle. He resolved to make an efibrt to set tboHL
at liberty, but his followers were too much intimidated to second
his andour, and he was finally compelled to submit to the «on*
ditions Bobscribed by his fkther, who agreed that the prince and
his cousin Heiiry, son to the King of the Romans, should re*
main as hostages in the hands of the barons, till all their differ- '
ences were adjusted by the authority of Pariiament In memory
of this ev^t, an eminence near the race-course, now used as a
beacon, has ever since retained the name of Mount Hany. Most
of the slain were interred near the spot in barrows, vestiges of
which are still sufficiently obvious.
About a mile from the town, on a rismg gronnd, to the right
•fthe road leading to Brighton, are the new Barracks, compbsed
of numerous detached buildings, principally of tim&er, which
have the appearance of a large rrHage. The old barracks stood
on the opposite side of the road, at a greater distance from the
town ; but, the situation being deemed unhealthy, they were re-
moved ; though for some reason which it would be difficult to
divine, the Military Hospital alone was excluded from tht^ bene-
fit of the change.
Aldrinoton, formerly a considerable village between Brigh-
ton atfd Bhoreham, is conjectured by some antii|uarie8 to have
been the Portus Adumi of the Romans. Such have been the en-
croachments of the sea on this coast» that not a building of any
lind except the roinous church, is now left in the parish ; though
a street was standing in the memory of old inhabitants living in
1742,
7
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144 SUSSEX.
1749^ according to the information of the Rev. Hr. llitchdl» who
was then curate of Aldrington, and afterwards vicar of Brighton.
In the church of Aiu>ingleigh, or Ertkingley, four milet
north of Cuckfield, are seYerak monnments of the bmilies of
Wakehurst and Cnlpeper. Among those of the latter, on a
grave-stone in the south chaneeU are ponrtrayed in brass the
figures of Nicholas Cnlpeper. Esq. and his wife Elizabeth. Ej
the man are the portraits of ten sons, and by the woman those of
eight daughters, , From the inscription it appears that he died in
1610, and she in IdOO.
HcftST-pBR^poiMTy originally called Hunt only, was part of
the eEtensive poscenions in this connty belonging to Godwin,
Earl of Kent, and his mm Harold IL After the Norman Con-
quest, this estate was giten to William de Warren, Earl of Sur-
rey, in whose descendants it continoed for several generations, till
alienated to the fiuuily of Pierpoint, who, however, held of the
earb as lords paramount Simon de Pierpoint attempted to
shake oflf this dependence; but William de Warren commenced
a suit at law against him, which at length terminated in a com-
promise; the earl in consideration of a goshawk given to Simon,
securing for himself and his heirs the privilege of hunting on any
of these lands. They remained long vested in this fiunily,
whence the village derived the addition of Pierpoint to its
name, since corrupted into the present appellation. In the six-
teenth century the manor came into the possession of the
43oring8, and afterwards belonged to the Shaws of Eltham, in
Kent, for several generations, till Sir John Shaw, Bart sold the
estate to William John Campion, Esq. of Danny, the present pro-
prietor.
The CAiircA consists of a nave, south aisle, a small north
Iransept and two chancels, one of which, called the Danny chan-
cet, is the burial-place appropriated to the owners of the mansion
4>f that name. At the west end is a substantial tower, above
which rises a wooden, shingled spire of considerable height In
the
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the Danny chancel are some monuments of considerable anti-
quity. Upon a tomb surrounded by iron railing lies the effigy
ofamanin complete armour, but without any . inscription to
indicate for whom it was erected ; and though three shields
have been discovered on one side of the monument yet the
arms and colours are entirely defaced. Tradition assigns it to
a Lord Dacre who possessed considerable estates in this neigh-
bourhood. Under an arch in the same chancel, upon a table
nionument, is another stone> figure of a warrior as large as ]ife«
which, from the legs being crossed, is supposed to represent a .
Imight templar. Here are also several sepulchral memorials
fpr various persons of the allied families of Conrthope and Cam-
pion, long resident in this parish.
Danay, the sea) of W. J. Campion, Esq. is a respectable man«
sion built entirely of brick in 1595, by George Goring, Esq.
who purchased the estate of Lord Dacre. In the hall which is
paved with black and white squared marble is a full length
picture of the founder. The house stands at the foot of Wol-
stanbury, one of the most prominent hills of the majestic range
of the South Downs.
Newhaten is situated at the mouth of the Ouse, which is
here crossed by a handsome draw-bridge. It was formerly a
market-town and its harbour was noted for convenience and
security, till the timber piers which defended it were suffered
. to decay, when U became choaked with sand, and the place was
in consequence nearly deserted. At length in 1731 an act of
Parliament was obtained for repairing the piers and improving
the harbour; and such has been the success attending its exe-
cution, that Newhaven is now a thriving town, containing up-
wards of 100 houses and 600 inhabitants. Measures are in
contemplation for enlarging and farther improving the port, so
as to render it a secure shelter for shipping which is much
wanted on this coast. A royal cutter is generally stationed
here for the prevention of smuggling ; and the entrance of the
VouXIV. " 2G harbour
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M6' 8086EX.
JiarlM>Of is defended by a small fort. The situation of the town
procores it coasiderable traffic, as it is the thorougbfore for all
commodities passing by water to Lewes, The inhabitants are
chiefly engaged iu maritime pursuits, and vessels lai^e enough
for the West India trade have been built here.
On a piece of ground contiguous to the church-yard stands a
handsome obelisk erected to the memory of Caputn Hanson,
and the crew of the Brazen sloop of war of 18 guns, which
early in the morning of January 35, 1800, was wrecked in a
violent storm on the Ave Rocks, near Newharen. Out of a
crew of 105 men only one survived the catastrophe. On each
of the four sides of the pedestal is an inscription commemorat-
ing the particulars of the melancholy event, and the names of
the officers; but such is the perishable nature of the tttme em-
ployed for this monument, that though so recent a work, the
greater part of these inscriptions u completely oblfterated.
The bodies of most of the sufferers were cast by the vmves on
the beach, and interred on this spot
The Churoh, on a hill at the west side of the town, is a small
modern building, as far as regards the body of the fabric. The
tower, which, contrary to the general role, is at the east end,
beats evident marks of antiquity, having small round-headed
windows.
Navtitnber Place, in the parish of the same name, the seat of
John Lewis Newnham, Esq. is a brick mansion encompassed
with a moat It contains some family portraits, among which
is that of William Newnham, who purchased the esUte of the
Osbornes, and one of the late Sir JamesEyre,Chief Justice lyf the
Common Pleas.
PoYNfNGs was for some centuries the seat of the opnlent and
distinguished baronial family which took its name AtMn this
place, but whose title and possessions at length descended to
the Percies, by whom this estate was alienated to tike Viscounts
Montague, of Covvdray House, near Midfaunt On the pre-
mature
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iMlane dMdi of tlM last lord without iuoe, the guttdihathip of
his poisestioiM d«TolTed to th« crown, by which th^y were
leased to W. S. Poynti, Esq. who married his sister.
The Chmrtk, % large, lofty stracture, in the form ef a etOs^
with a tower in the middle, in a durable monament ef the pibtjr
of the noble fiimily of Poyntngs* many of whom were inkerre4
in the north chaacel. We are informed in the M^gaa Bri^
tannia,^ that Michael de Poynings, who attended Edward IIL
in his war* in France, and died in the 4dd year of that kinf^s
reign, bequeathed 200 marks towards the building of a neW
church here, doubtless the present structure $ which most hive
been the work of his son Thomas, if, as Dugdale aaserU, it w«$
erected towards tha conclusion of the same reign. The armf
ctf the founder are yet to be seen orer tlie porch and tbu gffal
window of the east chanceh About a furlong firom the pre-
sean ehofch was once a chantry, afterwards reasot ed into
f be south chancel, where are still some remains of the altar.f
The inquisitife tisitor who should hope to find in this church
some memorials of the illustrious dead deposited within its wall9
would be grierously disappointed. It contains, indeed, many
tombstones of Sussex marble ; but all the brasses are torn oft
and the inscriptions obliterated. In the chancel are two
gravestones, on ode of which huve been pourtrayed in brasa
the figures of a man and woman, with a shield at each angles
On the other has been represented a man in armour prayings
with a lion at hisiset: but these are now destroyed. Th#
uhanoel windows were formerly adorned with painted ghss, of
which some mutilated relica yet exist.
When the late Sir William Barreil surveyed this church, he
found in the sooth transept the ruins of a large structure, whe-
ther of an altar or monument he could not determine. On the
ground near it lay a stone nine feet and a half long, with a fiUet
on the edge, which appeared to have been a gravo^slope^ but
had no insoriptkw. The whole fabric was for many yeaii
SOS negledod}
• VoL v. p. 916, 5ir. t Sir Wn. Baneiri MSS.
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us SUSSEX.
neglected ; but the Rev. Dr. Holland^ who was presented to the
rectory in 1807, by his fatlier*in*kiw Lord Erskine, has under-
taken a thor4>ugb repair.
. On the east nide of the church are some fragments of walls
and a square tower, tiie relics of the ancient mansion-boDse,
denominated The Place, It was built chiefly with flinu^ which
nay be procored in great plenty in the immediate neighbour-
hood, and covered a considerable area ; but was destroyed by
lire nearly a century ago, when it was occanonally inhabited
bythe noble family of Montague*
• Near Poynings is that remarkable chasm in the Downs known
by the .name of The Devifs Dyke, which thongh nothing more
than a precipitous valley formed by the hand of nature, is as*
cribed to the grand author of oTiU who, says traditiofij b^iold*
ing with envy the numerous churches of the Weald, determined
to form a channel which should admit the sea, and thus inun-
date that whole tract with all its pious inhabitants. This plan,
ns we are farther told, was disconcerted by an old woman, who
l)eing roused from her midnight slumbers by the noise which
the progress of the work occasioned, peeped out of her cham-
ber window, and had no difficulty to recognize the inCernal
agent. She perceived likewise the object of his undertaking,
and with admirable presence of mind held a burning candle
from the casement* The mischievous spirit mistaking the
light for the rising sun, was so scared, tliat he instantly qoitled
his unfinished work, and made a hasty retreat. Unfortunately
history has not recorded the name of the shrewd .matron
who rendered such a signal service to her country.
. . THE RAPE OF PEVENSEY
is bounded gn the east and west by the rapes of Lewes and
HaHttngs, on the north by the county of Kent, and on the south
by. the British channel It contains 19 hundreds and 54 pa-
rishes, 34 of which are in the upper, and 20 in the lower, divi-
sion.
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8D88BX. '149
sion. • A considerable part of the latter is'occapttd byAsh^
down Forest, otherwise denominated Lancaster Great Park;
which, according to the surrey of the parliamentary commid-
aioners in the 17th century^ lies in the parishes of 'Maresfieldv
Bm Grinstead, Hartfield, Wfthybam^ and Bucksted. The irn^
paled gfonnd was then estimated at 13^91 acres, worth 2356k
per annum^ exclnxirely of various parcels of land without the
pale. In % James L the Earl of Dorset was, by letters pateht
under 'the seal^of the Duchy of Lancaster^ appointed master of
the Cbrestj governor and master of the garae^ and ttkewise
keeper and surveyor-general of all the woods. This graiiti
confirmed and extended by Charles L was judged void by the
comoiiasioners; and in 1661 ..the forest was grantedto Gedrg*e;
Earl of Bristolj for-99 years atSOOl. per annum, which sum was
mlEKie part of the jointure of the queen dowager : but this pa*
tent was surrendered by the earl, who, unable to malte any
profit of it, puid. no rent, and the grant became void. At
length, in 1678, it was granted to Charles, Earl of Dorset,- and
his heirs for ever, and in his descendant the Duke of Dorset it
is now v^stetf .
In this rape are two market-towns, EastGrinstead and HzW^
ham, and the borough of Seaford.
BAST GRINSTEAD
is sRuated in the north*western comer of the rape, and in ISOl
comprehended 381 houses and 2659 inhabitants. Its market,
held on Thursday, is chiefly for corn, and it has three fairs oh
the Slsi April, 13th July, and llth December.
This place has sent two members to Parliament ever since
1 Edward II. The right of voting was formerly allowed by a
resolution of the House of Commons to belong to the inhiibi-
tants in general ; but, according to the deciition of 1695, it is no^
confined to the burgage* holders, thirty ^six in number. The
returning officer is the bailiff chosen by the iQrgage«bolders at
3G3 the
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|M IDMU.
tA# efitrt l^ei •{ the Duke of Donet, who if the lord of the
TbU tewB U pleeantly situated on s hill, hot irreg«ltrly
J^oilt Its noet consfiicuous edifice is the Ckurch, which stands
on th0 0a8t tide of the main street, and is a spacious handsome
Itrocture. The tower has been twice accidentally destroyed.
On the 6(h September 1683 it was set on fire by lightning ; but
tbeogb the oonflsgration was so fiirioos as to melt all the bell^
and totally oonsome the tow^n yet by the mdostry of the in-
tehitants the rest of the church was preserved from ifljary. A
pew tower was built the following year» but in lt85 was in«
volvf d in a fite not less dnastroos than the fdrmer. Owing to
the bedness of the materials, and the injndtciovs manner m
which it was built* the whole fatbric fell down on the 19th No»
iMmber^ and did considerable damage to the body of the
chureh* The master and scholars had jost left the ad^ining
seboQl«f oom which was buried in the ruins. The present terwer,
Mt yet fiaished, is lofty, well-proportioned, and adonied witfti
fdanacleB at the comers.
In the south aile is a neat mural monument for William Lord
AbelgaMflny, who died in 1744, aged 47, and is there inter-
red. To the wall of the north aile over a raised monument of
grey Sussex marble is affixed a stone with a brass plate, on
which are the figures of a woman and two men. The inscrip-
tion informs us that it is the tomb of Katherine, daughter of
i^fi 9cale«, wife to Sir Thomas Grey, Knt and afterwards to
Kchard Lewkenor, Esq. of Bramblet3re, one of the ladies to the
queens of Edward IV. and Henry VII. who died in liH)5^ sind
who with her second husband <' founded, indued^ and inomed
this present church to the lawde and honor of God with dyTers
ornamentis and a almshouse of three parsons.'*
At the east end of the town is SackvilU CoUegt^ a large qea*
dranguUr stone building, erected about 1616, by Richard Earl
of Dorset, according to Fuller ; but as he styles him the son of
TbomaiU who had no child of that name, it was probably
the
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ibe W(Nrk of Robert, tbe son of Earl Thomas. This charilable
insiitutioii was endowed by tbe founder with a re venae of 3301.
per tonbni; and here 34 aged persons of both sexes» under the
government of a warden and two assistants, have e^h a ae*
parate apartment whh a yearly allowance of 81. A suite of
ro6ms in the college is set apart for theDake of Dorset; hot
they ace very seldom visited by his grace, who allowed the
use of them to tbe judges while the assizes were held here.
The college is provided with a neat chapel, where the war-
den reads prayerii every morning, and where DiTiiie service
was performed while the parish chorch was under repair.
A Free School for twelve boys was founded here in 176^ by
Robert and Henry Payne, of Newtek, who endowed it with a
fiirm called Serryes in this parish. Their benefaction is re*
corded on their monument affixed to the wall which separates
the chancel from the north aile of the ohnrcb.
In this town were formerly held the Lent assises fet the
county, to which the prisoners were brought from the gaol at
Horsham. It is related, that " on 17thMarch» 1684, the se-
cond day of the assizes, a jury being sworn, consisting mostly
of knights and gentlemen, on a trial between Lord Howard and
another person of distinction, the floor of the Nisi Prios Court
fell down, and with it all the jury, gentlemen^ Counsel, and
lawyers into the cellar, yet no person received any considerable
harm except one witness, who was cot across the forehead.
The bench where the judge sat fell not, but bwig almost to a
miracle* The rest of the trials were heard in the Crowit Cbart,
and the Sessions-house was soon after pulled quite down.'^ *
It was rebuilt principally at the charge of the burgage-bolders^
and finished against the assizes in the following year.
BrambUtyt House, a castellated mansion about a mile south
of the town in a low situation near the high road, was built in
tbe time of James I. from an Italian model by Sir Henry Conlp*
2G4 ton,
• From the notes of Mr. Bachelor (who appears to have been a sorgeoa tiK
^St OriiisteacI) quoted by Sir Win. Burrell in bit MS. coIltc(ioiif«
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152 SDSSEX.
ton, if we may juJge from thu arms aod devicea in diffcRBt
parts of the edifice. The cellars are large, and consist of Go-
thic arches and pillars; but the superstractore is completely m
ruins. Considerable remains, including the principal entrance
with two of the square turrets, are still standing; though mack
of the fabric has within memory fallen from age» or been taken
down to be employed elsewhere in building and repairs.
From the court- rolls of the manor it does not appear who
succeeded the Comptonsin the possession of this mansion; bat
fio much is certain, that Sir James Richards, in his patent of ba-
ronetcy, dated 92d Feb. 1683-4, is described as of Brambietye-
House. To this gentleman the tradition which accoants for its
premature decay is supposed to apply. It is related, that oo a
suspicion of treasonable practices against a proprietor of this
house, officers of justice were dispatched to search the premises,
where a considerable quantity of arms and military stores was
discovered. The owner who was judt then engaged in the di-
version of the chace, receiving intimation of the circomstance^
deemed it most prudent to abscond ; and the mansion, beiDg
thus deserted, was sufiered to go to decay. The well-known
loyalty of the Comptons has led to the surmise that this occstr-
rence took place during their tenure, under the commonwealth*
in behalf of their lawful sovereign ; but that can scarcely have
been the case, as John, the son of Sir Henry, is recorded to
have died at Brambletye, July 98, 1659. On the other band
it is certain that it was occupied during the reign of Charles II.
by Sir James Richards, who was of French extraction, his ia*
ther having come into this country with Queen Henrietta Maria.
Seing first knighted for an act of bravery in the sea-service, he
was afterwards advanced to the dignity of a baronet; and mar-
ried for his second wife Beatrice Herrara, apparently a Spa-
niard. It is recorded of him that he quitted this country and
settled in Spain, where some of his descendants have occo-
pied high stations in the Spanish army. These circumstances,
coupled with that of his being the last known reudeat atBram-
bictyt>
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SUSSEX* 153
blet^e, render it more than probable that the destruction ot
this home* attributed by* report to the rebeUtoas propensities of
its owner, oof^ht to be dated from his occupation. The manor
has been for about a century in the possession of the Biddulphs,
a Roman Catholic family, of which John Biddulph, Esq. of Bur*
ton Parki near Petworth, is' the present representative.
Kidbrooke, about three miles so6ih of East Grinstead, a struc*
iure of large dimensions, and in a good taste, was built by the
late.} Mr. Mylne, the well« known architect of Brackfriars
Bridge, for William, the I4th bsuron of Abergai^enny, who made
it his seat. The present earl, baring transferred his residence
to Bridge, the long neglected mansion of his ancestors, sold
Kidbrooke to the Right Hon. Charles Abbott, Speaker of the
Bouse of Commons, who here seeks relaxation from the arduous
duties of the office which he so honourably fills. The house
stands rather low, in apark of no great extent, in which many
judicious improvements have recently been introduced under
the direction of Mr. Repton. The approach to 'the mansion
was formerly in a direct line from the high road ; but from the
nature of the ground, which declines toward the house, the
. effect was bad. The present entrance has brought into notice
beauties which were before concealed, particularly one emt-
Bent advantage, water, which, in this part of the country, is
rather rare.
HAILSHAM,
is situated near the eastern border of this rape, about 13 miles
from Lewes* In 1801 the townand parish comprehended 133
houses, and 897 inhabitants. It has a weekly market held on
Wednesday.
The only object deserving notice at Hailsham is the Church
dedicated to St. Mary. Nothing is known respecting its foun-
dation ; but we find that in the reign of Henry III. Gilbert de
Aquila gave the advowson to the prior and convent of Michel-
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lianu It is b hanibonie edifice^ consisting of a tanrt and tir^
ailes paved with tiles. It contains no monttmeiiu wortb men-
ttoning. The tower is ornamented with a pinnacle at each cor*
iier» and a vane in the middle.
Strype relates^ that '* in the latter end of March 1568, Hayls-
ham Church was spoyled by the inhabitants oF the said town,
wherof Thomas Bishop and John Thetcher, justices of the
peace, made complaynt to Sir Richard Sackrille, one of the
.comiciL This the oovncil styled a heinous disorder, and by
their letters to the said justices willed th«ni for the better pa-
nishment thereof to call for the assistance of Sir Nicholas
Pelham and Sir Edward Gage, and to pot them to such
fines as should jbe thought most meet and agreeable to the
laws."*
In this parish, near the river Cuckmere, stand tkkt remains of
Michelkam Priory. This house for canons regular of the order
of St. Augustine was founded ut the beginning of the reign of
Henry III. by Gilbert de Aquila, who by his charter endowed
it with divers lands, free pastures and privikges in his woods
in this county, the church and lordship of Mtchelham, the
chunthes of Hailsham and Legton, 4he purk of Pevense, and 80
acres of marsh-land in Hailsham. These and the donations of
other benefactors were confirmed by Edward II. Not long
before the Dissolution this conyent was inhabited by eight ca-
nons, whose yearly revenues amounted, according to Dogdale,
to 1601. but as Speed says from Leland, to 1911. The monas-
tery was granted 29 Hen. VIII. to Thomas Lord Cromwell ; and,
when by his attainder it rcTerted to the crowd, the same king
in his 93d year obliged the Earl of Arundel to accept it wiCh
some part of the possessions of the priory of Lewes, instead of
certain manors of his paternal estate to which that arbitrary
monarch had taken a fancy. In 4S Elizabeth, 1601, the site
of the priory, its dependencies, and the tnanor of Miehelham,
were conyeyed by Herbert Pelham, Esq. for 47001. to Lord
Treasurer
* Anoals, I. 49.
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svssBX. 155
Treararw Bockborst^ aoMl are bow ih€ property of hU descend^
iDt the Duke of Donet*
Of the reiDMns of this monastery part has been converted
mto a finm-hoase. There is stilt left a noble tower, the en«
trance to which is o?er a strong bridge^ across a large square
noai» encoiapassing eight acres, and yet fall of water, through
which rang a stream that turns a com^miil behind. Under this
embattled tower is a lofty arch, si>OTe which are foar Gothic
windows; a aeirel staircase leads to two spacious rooms above
vsed by the tenant as store-rooms, and below is a dark apart*
mcnt;eaikd the dungeon. The principal parts of the ancient
edifice may be traced in yarioos arches and pillars of the north
sido of the fMresent house, the cellars and pantry of which shew
some fine remains of vaulted stone rooft, and the ornaments
vsoal in ancient ery pts. f
SBAFORB,
a small fishiog village sitoate about halfway between the rivers
Ovse and C«ckmere, was formerly of sufficient importance to
be a member of the Cinque-ports. It is said, indeed, to have
bee& so estcnsive as to contain five clnirches and a chapel, till
it was bonied by the French in one of their descents on this
coast: and this account receives some support from the
feondatiOBS of buildings^ which are occasionally dug up in all
durectioBS. The whole parish now comprehends about 150
booses and 850 inhabitants.
Seaferd still retains some vestiges of its lUicient consequence,
as it is an incorporated town, and returns two representatives
to Parliament. The corporation consists of a bailiS^ twelve
jmatf, and an indefinite number of freemen. It sent members
aot as a port, but as a borough, 36 and 30 Edward 1. 16 and 19
Edward II. 18, 90, and 91 Richard II. and 1 Edward IV. after
v^icb it ceased till 16 Charles I. 1640, when it was made a
member
• Grose's Antiq. VIII. 131. t Topog. Mifcel.
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156 scsbEx.^
member of the Cinque-^orU. The right of eiectioo is in the
inhabitants housekeepers^ paying scot and lot» in nomber;
104 ; and the bailifi' is the returning officer. This borough <
long remarkable for the obstinate election coaieats between the.
partizans of the two noble houses of Lenox and Peibam.
The only building worthy of notice is the CAvrd^ whidi
stands at the northern extremity of the place. It exhibits
some marks of considerable antiquity, though the greater part
especially of the body of the fabric is a vile piece of |i«tcfa«
work to which pointed shutters on the outside of ail the lower
windows give a truly grotesque appearance. The tower has
suffered less from the hands of modern restorers; at the west
side it has a spacious entrance under a pointed -areiu above
which are the remains of another of a circular form, ibe inter*
mediate space being walled up. A similar Saxon arch, baten«
tire, occurs on the outside of the chancel at the north-east cor-
ner, and a smaller at the south-east; these are both filled op^
and denote that the edifice was once more exteuMve.
The interior consists of a nave, small chancel, and two aisles
supported by circular- pillars, some of which are adonied with
emblematical figures, particularly the capital of a column inibe
south aisle near the door, on which is engraved a representation
of the crucifixion. The original chancel was burned down
probably in the general conflagration of the town already^ men-
tioned. In 1778, in digging up its ancient foundatiooa^ were
found two coffin-stones with handsome crosses carved upon
them, within the chancel, and a third close to the outer wall.
The latter enclosed sixteen skulls, but had no aperture till
broken open. It is fixed in the north walU and one of the
others in the south wall of the church.
Seaford has of late years attracted some visitors during the
bathing season : three machines are kept, and hot and coU
baths have been erected for their accommodation.
On the beach is a fort for the protection of the coaa^ and a
signal station on the cliff a little to the west of the town.
• Seaford
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Senford has a life-boat for the assidtance anjt presefvation of
shipwrecked mariners ; bat it does not appear that the applica*
tion pf this useful in?ention has been, so successful here as on
other parts of our coast.
, Corsica Hall, . a plain brick mansion westward of the town,
^iras lately the residence of Thomas Harben, Esq. by whom it
was sold prior to the general election in 1812 to the Hon, Tho-
mas Bowes, brother to the Earl of Strathmore.
PEVENSEY,
though now of little note, yetdeserres the first place among
the villages of this rape, on account of its ancient importance.
From the circumstance of its haying giyen name to this division
of the county, we may naturally infer that it was formerly ac«
counted its capital. At present the whole parish contains only
98 houses and 753 inhabitants.
. There can be little doubt that Pevensey owed its ancient
prosperity to its favourable situation for commerce as a port,
and its subsequent decline to the gradual receding of the sea
from which it now stands at a considerable distance. That it
wa3 a place of high antiquity is undeniable. Somner is inclin-
ed to fix. here the Anderida of the Romans, in opposition to
those who seek that station at Newenden in Kent, supporting
his conjecture by the words of Gildas, who tells us that it was
tn littore oetani ad meridiem, •* on the southern coast.'' Usher
makes it the Caer Pensavel Coii of the Britons ; the addition of
Coit implying the ancient state of the adjacent country, which,
though now a marshy level, was once covered with wood.
. Pevensey is reckoned among the sea-ports ravaged by God-
win^ Earl of Kent, in the time of Edward the Confessor. It is
also celebrated in history as the place where William the Con*
queror landed with his invading army. From Madox's History
pf the Exchequer, it appears that in 6 John, Pevensey among
other trading towns paid a quinxietne or tax for its merchan*
dize ; and that three years afterwards the barons of Pevensey
7 fined
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|£9 SUStBX.
fined forty midu for licence to bmld a town npcm a spot be-
tween PeTcnsey and Langiey, wUch shoald enioF iha Mncr
priTileges as the Ciaque-ports, and have a yearly fiiir f^ IMK
serenteen days» commencing on the anntfenary of 9t Jebtt
Baptist i ahoaraefketeverySanday. Whediar die ii^^Mtala
e?er «ai;ried into eSeet any part ef this grant vre an not ift*
formed.
The only relic of the ancient doaaeqileneeof Pe^elisey kikm
Cauk on the east side of the town. The name of the lniiUer»
and the date of its erection, are alike nnkuown; bat frooi ^e
quantity of Boman bricks empi^yvd in tke wcvk tbef« la «r«ty
reason to belioTe tkat it was coMtmcted' oat of same Kouaul
fertressr The eatem^ walb> whick with the towOTS afa tiMlijr
entire to Ike height of 90 or Sft feat^ are drrahr^ aad iMkiia an
area of seven acres. The principal entrance is fiom tha wesi
or land side between two round towers^ in wbicbave eensMeir*
able lay ei4 cf Boman brick, some s'mgie, ethers daokl^ aboat
1S9 feet from the groond, and four or fire asaader. Many^ asieh
layers ef whiMr brkk a^ alone hewn in that fetm lie beiweett
the stmu of |ied» or in ptee of tkem ih tha walls batweeift the
other towers to the north*westi; and uaibr nertk-easi sawerav«
sacb stones laid berring-bene fashieo tovratfda tite botaoaa.
Withift is a saaatfer fortificalion asoated on tka nortk said waal;^
more of a qnadraognlar forai^ with nnmd towi^, add eMeied
by a draw-bridge wfaadi cotrcspenda with the oaier gass^ m4,
like the lattaK, is nat in the centra of the wast side, kal satiier
more to the south. The east wall of both is the saaae, and
stands on a kind of eUflP, that appears to have been oUce wasLed
by the sea, which, however, mast bava receded befara the
town below was boilL There are no Roman bricks inike inner
work, and only in the north and west sides of sbe eoter .* Se«
teral of the tarrets in the latter eve of solid masonry, and aeeaa
to have been designed not for dfefence, baa to 4ecaive an
enemy.
In
• GoaeVf Caadfii^ Vol. I.
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sn9MaL M0f
lathfr area of the outer castle ace two colfrertos without car*
riages ; oae meatnres eleren feH in lezigtb, is hooped^ has ai
reae and crown, and the Icttars K R. probably for EI»abaha
Ikgiaa : the other is twelve feet long, and is learked W. P«
They lie within two yards of ene another, sunk into the earthy
and pointing to the 8ea«
Sic Wiliiam BarreU gives the following curious particnlara
respecting the fiMindatieiis of this castle, transcribed by bin
from a paper in the possession of the late Mr« Lambert of
Lewes :*^Io I71ii^ the Rev. John Wright, vicar of Pevenaey, for
the benefit of the pariahionersv who laheiired under the tncon^
venieaceof bad w«|er, employed a; workman to convey it from
the moat oi the castle into the toi^n. To accomplish this pur*
pose, he focmd it necessary to make hisway under the wall the
thickness of which he computed to be tea feet. The Ibonda-
tton waa discovered to consist of pilee planked over with slabs
of extraordinary substance ; hut, notwithstanding the length of
time since the erection of this weighty fabric, there appeared
to be no decay in the slaba The colour only seemed to be
changed from what we may seppose it to have been when
they were first laid down ; and the leaves of fiiggots found
there were still somnL*
William the Conqueror having by the sword established his
ckiim to the English throne, gave the town and castle of Pe«
vensey to bis half brother Robert, Earl of Mortaigne in Nor-
mandy, and created him Earl of GomwalL These honours he
enjoyed during the life of that kiag; but, having isAsen part un^
der his successor in an insurrection excited by his brother Odo
Earl of Kenf, in favour of Robert Ceuvtbose, an army was sent
against this castle to reduce him, on which he thought proper
to surrender, and make his peace. H!e was sacceeded in his
possessions by William, Earl of Mortaigne and Cornwall, who,
on being refused the earldom ofKent by Henry Ljoinfed in a
rebellion with Robert de Belesme, Earl of Shrewsbury. The
king,
• Sir Williun Borrell's MSS. in tbe Brit. Moi.
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itO acsssx.
kkig, in conseqaence» seised all his estates, demolished most of
his castles^ and esdled him from the realm. He gave to Gilbert
deAqnilathe town and castle of Pevensey» with all their de-
pendencies, which, in allusion to the name of the owner, were
styled the honour of the Eagle» In his descendants tbishonour
remained vested for some time ; but being again forfeited to the
crowQ, Henry HL granted it to his son Prince Edward and his
heirs, kings of England, so that it shook! never more be sepa*
rated from the crown. Notwithstanding this proviso, the castle
and domain of Pevensey were settled on John of Gannt, Duke
ofLancaster,.fottrth son of Edward III. upon his surrender of
' the earldom of Richmond, and they have probably, from this
period constituted part of the possessions of the duchy of Lan*
caster. Henry, son of John of Gaunt, having ascended the
throne of England by the title of Henry, IV. .the honour of the
Eagle once more reverted to the crown, and some of the estates an-
nexed to it were given by that Jd&g to the family of Pelham,
as a reward for their loyalty and valour.
For many years this castle was held by the Pelhams under a
lease from the duchy of Lancaster, till about the middle of the
last century the Duke of Newcastle resigned it. to Spencer
Compton, Earl of Wilmington, on his being created baron of
Pevensey ; and, on the death of the late Earl of Northampton,
it devolved to his daughter Lady Elizabeth Compton, who car-
ried it by marriage to Lord George Henry Cavendish*
Andrew Bordb, or Andreas Perfaranu, as he styled himself
in Latin, was a native of Pevensey. He was educated at Win-
chester, and at New College, Oxford, where he applied himself
very closely and successfully to the study of physic On leav«
ing the university he is reported to have visited every country in
Europe, and several parts of Africa. On his return to £ng-
Is^nd, he took his doctor's degree in 1541, or 1543, and first set*
tied in his native town, whence be removed to Winchester, and
finally to London, where he is said to have become a fellow of
the college of physicians, and first physician to Henry VIIL
His
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« SUSSEX. 161
Jttii eccentricity of character led him to frequent fairs, markets
and other places of public resort, where be would harangue
the people in a language naturally quaint and joco^; and from
bim the itinerant renders of aostnuns are said to have derived
the appellation of Merry Andrews, Notwithstanding his jo^
cular turn, he is reported to have practised the austerities of
the Carthusians, to which order he once belonged ; living ^i
celibacy, drinking water three days in the week, wearing a
hair shirt, and every night hanging his burial sheet at the feet
of his bed. He died in 1&49 in the Fleet prison ; but it is net
probable, that he was confined there for debt, as he left pro-
perty to a considerable amount, both in Norfolk and at Win-
chester. He was the author of several works on various sub-
jects ; and Wood says that '' he was esteemed a noted poet, a
witty and ingenious person, and an escellent physician/'
East Boubnb, which ha9 of late years become a fashionable
bathing'place, is situated near the foot of the lofty hill, which
forms the bold head*land of Beachy. The place consists of
four detached parts, two of which near the sea at the eastern
and western extremities of the parish, are denominated Sea
HouscM and Meades. The others are Satuh Bourne, and Eoit
Bourne about a mile and a half from the sea. Between thess
last stands Compton Place, the elegant mansion of Lord
George Cavendish, surrounded with pleasure grounds, gardens,
and plantations. The number of resident inhabitants in ibe
parish is about 1700.
The bathing at East Bourne is remarkably good ; and' from
12 to 15 machines are kept for the accommodation of visitors,
who chieHy frequent the Sea Houses, on account of the prox-
imity of that part 4>f the village to the beach« In South
Bourne, or more properly the South Street, is a small Theatre,
and at the Lamb Ion, near the church, a^subscription Ball-room^
A Circulating Library may be reckoned among the amuse-
ments of the place, which also enjoys the advantage of a
Chalybeate Spring. Arises at H^lywsU about a mila westward
Vol.. XIV. SJi
of
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of the Sea Houses, and hu been recommended in all esses
for which the Bristol waters are serviceable, but it does not
appear to be ranch nsed.
The Ckurch is a large handsome edifice, having a fine old
tower with six bells, a iofVy nave and chancel, and two spa-
cioQs side aisles, separated by five high^pointed arches* which
are supported by neat pritars, alternately roond and octagonaL
A lofty roand xigiag ardi separates the nave from the chancel*
The altar-piece finished in the modem style is very elegant
On the aoath side of the chancel is an arch, adorned with the
aigzag ornament, under which are four recesses. Dr. Ducarel
conjectured, that it might have been designed for the monu-
ment of a second founder, and that the first and fourth recess
were intended for the bisfaop of the diocese and his chancellor,
when he visited the church in person.
In one of the chapels, appropriated as burial-places of the
lords of the two manors in this parish, are several handsome
monuments of the Burtons and Wilsons ; and in the other of
the Gildridge and Gilbert families.^
In the chancel on a fiat black marble is an inscription for
Henry Lushington D.D. who was vicar of this parish 44 years,
and died in 1779, aged 69. He was the father of Sir Stephen
•Lushington, Bwtt. and Wm. LusMngton, Esq^ .Over his own
tomb is a handsome white marble montHtteat* with the bust of
a young man placed upon it, in memory of his eldest son Hen*
ry. who, as appears by the inscription, went to India at the
age of sixteen* and was one of the few survivors of the un-
fortunate persons confined in the Black Hole at Caleutts.
^y a subsequent revolution in 1763 he was, with 900 more,
taken prisoner at Patna ; and after a tedious imprisonment, being
singled out with two other gentlemen* was, by order of the
Nabob Ally Kawn, deliberately and inhumanly murdered.
But while Che seapoys were performing their savage office
on the fiist of the sufibrars* fired with generous indignation at
^e distress of a firiond/ he rushed upon the atnssins nnacmed ;
aadt
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ktUBOi 169
mA, sefzihg one of their icymetan, killed three 'of them and
wounded two others, till at length, oppreued with ttombeni^
lie felU at the early age of 26 yean.
Dr. Tabor, of Lewes, a learned antiquary of tde lasC century^
laboured to prove this plltce to be the Anderida of the liTotitia*
the Andtriiio of Rayennas, the Andredecesire of Huntingdon,
and the Mecrede$burn, where Ella defeated the Britons in the
year 472. In his opinion, with which t>r. Ward agrees, xti
real name is Eshvm, That it was formerly much larger than
at present is by nd means improbable, as the foundations of
buildings are frequently turned up by the plough, in different
parts of the parish. The most remarkable discovery of this
kind was made in 1717, in a meadow about a mile and a half
aouth east of the village, where a Roman pavement of plain
chequer work, a bath, and other remains of antiquity, were
found. The pavement, which i^^as little tnofe than a foot be-
neath the surface, was 17 feiet 4 inches loiig, add 11 broad,
^d ehiirely 'composed of white and brown tessene. The batb
'was 16 feet long, 5 feet 9 inches broad, and 3 feet 9 inches
deep. From the rubbish with which the pavement was imroe*
diately covered, and the bath filled, it was evident that the
building to which they belongedi must have been destroyed
by fei'^.
* At Langky Pointy about a mile and a (lalf eastward of the
village, two* forts have been erected on the beach for the pro*
tection of the coast; and on Anthony Hill, an eminence about a
mile behind them, is a battery of heaVy canon. On the same
side are eittensive bar^ck^, and from this placif eastward the
coast is defended by mart^llo towers.
To the west of the hamlet of Meade^ commence tbe cliffs of
Beachy Head, sbid cohtino^ k> near burling Gap. Their height
according to Hensfaawe's charts made by order of governoHsnt,
is 515 feet; On otfe of the highest points fs a signal station ;
and two pieces of cannon near it command an extensive range.
Towards the west tide is a cavern, consisting of two apart*
S H 1^ menu.
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164 f^usscx.
nients^ scooped out of the solid chalk, with a window-place over
the entrance, to which there is an ascent by steps rudely cot
out of the cliffs. It is named Parson Darhf^s Hole^ after a
cler^^yman who, to avoid the vexations which be experienced
from a drunken scolding wife, retired to the sea-side, dug a
cave in the chalk above high water mark, fixed a door at the
entrance^ and, having furnished his apartment with abed and a
few books, lived as a hermit upwards of two years, seldom ap-
pearing on land, except on Sundays, when he repaired to his
church, to perform the duties of his function. Being in narrow
circumstances he chiefly supported himself by fisbing, assisted
by the occasional bounty of the neighbouring inhabitants. The
fishermen, missing him one day from his usual occnpation,
went to the cave; and, obtaining no answer to their repeated
calls, forced open the door. The hermit was found speechless;
and being removed to a house not hx ofi^ soon afterwards ex-
pired. Such is the history of Parson Darby, given by Sir WiU
liam Burrell ; but another account, in wbicb he is said to have
resided at East Dean, asserts, on what authority we are not in-«
formed, that he was induced to undertake this labour, from the
more generous motive of humanity ^ that in stormy weather he
used to put out lights to guide unfortunate mariners to shelter j
that he once had the gratification, to save upwards of twenty
persons from a Dutcb vessel, stranded near the spot; but that,
from the dampness of the situation, he soon fell a martyr to hb
benevolence.* Upon an examination of the parish register of
East Dean, it appears that " Mrs. Ann Darby, wife of Mr. Jo-
nathan Darby, Minister,'' was '« buried Dec. 19, 1723,'' and
*' the Rev. Mr. Jonathan Darby, vicar, Oct 25, 17%." If
this be the person to whom the preceding traditions refer, the
circumstances, as related by Sir Wm. Burrell, caiuiot possiolf
be correct.
Beachy Head is memorable in history for the defeat of the
combined
* Gaide to the WatcriBf Ptecas, 1810, p. 9U.
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•US8SX. 16$
combined EngTisfa and Dutch fleets wUhin sight of it« by a stipe*
Vior French force on the 3CHh June« 1090.
In the parish of Flktching, about half i^ay between East
Grinstead and Lewea^ is Sheffield Place, which, with the estate at-
tached to it, belonged, in the time of Edward the Confessor, to
Godwin, Earl of Kent, was afterwards given by the Conqueror
to his half brother the Earl of Mortaigoe and Cornwall, and
has since been die property of many distinguished families,
among whom may be reckoned the Dukes of Lancaster and
Norfolk, the Earls of Dorset, Abergavenny, and Dolawarre.
It was purchased in 1769 of John Earl Delai^arre, together
with all his other manors and estates in Sussex, for 31,000/. by
John Baker Holroyd, Esq. who in 1780 was elevated to the
peerage as Baron Sheffield. Respecting the first foundation of
this house nothing is known. It formerly consisted of two
quadrangles ; but such have been the alterations successively
made in it, that few traces of the ancient structure are left. It
has been enlarged, and a considerable part rebuilt by the pre-
sent noble proprietor in the Gothic style, with a beautiful cha-
pel window; and in a Gothic firieae, which runs round the
house, are introduced the arms of all the possessors of this
lordship since the Norman Conquest. Among the ornaments
oi the interior are full length portraits of her Royal High^
ness the Princess of Wales, the present Earl of Chichester in
regimenuls. Lord Sheffield, Lord Glenbervie, and Mr. Gibbon,
The mansion stands rather low, in a park of between 5 and
600 acres, the entrance to which is under a large Gothic arch
•haded by stately trees. The gardens alone contain upwards
of 100 acres.
Lord Sheffield's estate, situated nearly in the centre of the
Weald, is the moftt extensive in that tract of country. He has
for above forty years kept about 1400 acres of land in his own
bands. He has tried every mode and every instrument of
agriculture j but the breeding of cattle and sheep, and the im-t
provement of the fleece of the latter, have been the principal
S H 8 objects
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)M SUSSEX*
pbjects of his attention* The cattle whifclft be prefers ire of
jthe best native breed, and his flock consists of aboot 1000
South Down sheep. His fiurm-yard is Tery coDimodions, and
contains eTjery requisite for conducting opierations op the Urgr
est scale ; but« though some attention has been paid to aym^
metry and appearance^ his lordship in general rejects every
improvement not within the reach of (he ordinary farmer.*
The soil of this part of the county is remarkably favour-
able to the growth of timber. Cough relates^f that in 1771
t.vo p^k trees ifi Sheffield Par)[« whose tgps werp quite decayr
pd* sold standing at the risk of their being unsound, for 69^
They contained upwards of 23 loads, or 1140 feet of square
timber. The carriage of them to th^ water-side, only nine
miles upon a good turnpike road, cost 30/. j each tree being
drawn by 24 horses on a low carriage made for the purpose^
and travelling only four miles and a half a day. They were
floated from Landport near Lewes^ to Newhaven, where they
were with difficulty embarked for the use of the navy at Chau
)um|.
Fletching phurch is a large ancient strucUfrCj built in the
form of a cross, and the tower is adorned with a handsome
spire. In the sooth transept is a large raised tomb of stone^
cut into Gothic arches, under one of which is pourtrayed iq
)l>rass the Egure of a man completely armed* There seems tq
have been an inscription, now lost, on the place where the
fillet was bedded in the edge of the stone; but from the arms
there can be no doubt, that it was intended for one of the fami'*
ly of I)alyngryge» which oncp possessed the miinor of Fletchr
ing, and enjoyed great consequence in this county. On tb^
east side of the same transept^ is ft ftatply monument to the
piemory of Richard Leche, Esq. who died in 1596, |n his 67ti^
year.^ His figure, as large as life in alabaster, lies beside that
of his wife, under a canopy enriched with coats of arms, pro-
perly emblazoned, ^nd other ornaments; but it wa.s mocb
brokei|
f ^ovBg't Agric. Sorv. of Sanfx. f Cfosgh't Caiiid. Vol. (.
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sosasx. 167
Inrokm in 1783> by the fall of the pillam which supported the
pediment. On a black marble tablet^ at the back of the cano*
py, is an inscription recording his charities*
The principal ornament of this cbnrch is a Gothic maoso^
learn, over the entrance of which is this inscription :
Suu jiMjM J. B. HOLROYD Domimut Sh^U.
Here are several Latin inscriptions for the family of the
noble founder^ among the rest for his father and his younger
brother Daniel, who, being of the forlorn hope, was killed in
the desperate assault on the Moro Castle at the Havannah ii|
1763. Here also are deposited the remains of his lordship's .
particular friend, Edward Gibbon, the celebrated historiai^
with the following inscription, from the classic pen of the
Rev. Dr. Parr :
''£dW4bdu6 Gibbok,
Critieat acri ingenio et mnltiplici
doctrina omatui,
ideiaqiM bittoficoram qui fortontia
Imperii Bomani
▼el labentis et inclioati tel OTersi et fusditai delcti
litteris maDdaTcrint
onniuni facil^ prtoceps ;
cojoi m moriboi erat moderatio aniffli
cam libtrali qaadam ipeeie conjanctH*
in sermone
malttt grsTiuti comitas niayiter adspena,
inicriplia
copioiam. splmdidom, ,
concinnom orbe Terboram
et nimmo artificio diftinctany
pradoaii geoaa
^ - leconditB ezqQiiit»qoe feoteotii^
,. et in momeotii renim poliUcanim
obMrvandis
acuta et pertpicas prodeatia.
« H ♦ Vixit
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I<t8 8VMEX.
VUitaoDos LYI mens. VII diei XT91tt
dceeiut XVII cal. Felk aano neso
MDCCLXXXXIV.
Et in \wc nmusoleo Mpoltof eft
ex volontate Johannis domini Sheffield,
Qui amico bene merenti et conTictori
hBmanusiiBo
H.Tab. P.C-"
Oa the northern border of this rape, partly in the parish of
Frant, and partly in that of Lamberharst in Kent, on «
point of land included between two branches of the little ri*
yer Tun, which here divides the two counties, are situated the
remains of Begeham or Bayham Abbey. This was one of tfao
first foundations for the regular canons of the Prsmonstraten*
sian order, though the community was not originally established
on this spot; their first residence having been at Otteham, in
this county, and afterwards at Brockley in Deptford, These
primary foundations owed their existence, about the middle of
Che 19th century, to the pious munificence of Ralph de Dene ;
but the former place being found objectiooable, on account of
its extreme poverty, the monks soon removed to Brockley.
There also they met with obstacles to their comfort, on which
Sir Robert de Thurnham, a great patron of monastic institu-
tions, and one of the companions of Richard I. in the holy
wars, with the consent of bis lord paramount, the earl of
Clare, granted to these canons all his lands at Begeham^ in
pure and perpetual alms, for the purpose of building a new
abbey. They removed in consequence to this spot, and per-
manently established their community, on the feast of the an-
nunciation, A. D. 1200. Here they continued till 17 Henry
VlII. when Cardinal Wolsey obtained a grant of this house as
one of the smaller monasteries, for the endowment of his in^
tended colleges, though its revenues amounted to 15/2L per
annum. On the disgrace of the cardinal, the manor, with the
lite of the abbey, reverted to the king, and seems to have rc-r
|nain^4
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aiftiiied id the crown« till Qdeen Elnsabeih granted the estate to
Anthony Brown Viscount Montague. About 1714 it was pur*
chased by John Pratt^ Esq. afterwards Lord Chief Justice of
the King's Bench, and from him descended to Marquis Camden^
who derives from it the title of Viscount Bay ham.
llie remains of this abbey are still considerable. They
consist of the gateway, the nave of the church, and its attach-
ed offices, part of the refectory, and apparently some portion
of the cloisters, together with some cellars or appendages to
the buttery. The church is a handsome building, perfect in
its outline and pHncipal walls, and contains some beautiful
Gothic windows, and various good specimens of the architec-
tore of the 13th century. At the north east end are the re-
mains of a turret staircase, which appears to have conducted
to a rood-loft, opening probably, into the church above the
high altar, the traces of which are also plainly discernible.
When these monastic remains came into the hands of Lord
Chief Justice Phttt, the church was still entire; but some
buildings or repairs being wanted on the estate, the steward
took off the roof, unknown to his lordship, and employed the
timber and other materials for the purpose. Thus the tombs
of the abbots and other monuments were left exposed to the
injuries of the weather. With materials procured from dif-
ferent parts of the ruins, John Pratt, Esq. grandson of the
Lord Chief Justice, erected a small commodious habitation in
the Gothic style, for his summer residence : but, being placed
too near the ancient buildings, it has neither the advantage of
a good view of them, nor itself contributes to the beauty and
character of the scene. He also laid out the interior of the
church and cloister as a pleasure garden, with flowers and
gravel walks. The inquisitive visitor is permitted to inspect
these remains on two days in the week by the present noble
proprietor, who, it is said, has formed a project for building, on
one of the adjacent elevations, a mansion more suitable to his
jrankf under the direction of Mr. Hepton. A late writer justly
observes.
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m 89MSX.
obmrfM that " wood« water, Tariety of gtoiiiid and pietarei^e-
fc^nery are amply provided by natare ; while the veiierable
min intToduced as a prominent and appropriate featare in the
landscape woaU well entitle the place to the restoration of its
ancient name» Beaalieu/'*
Sridge Ca$tk, the seat of the Earl of Abergavenny, is also
sitnated in the parish of Frant* about two miles from Tvnbridga
WoUs. The manor u very extensive, comprising, besides se*
▼eral snbordinate manors, the forest of Walerdown, described
by Camden as one of the three great forests of this comity.
Beibre the Norman invasion it belonged to Godwin* Earl of
Kent, and after the Conquest was granted to the Earl of Mor-
taigne and ComwalL Here, at that early period, was a park
or chase, swrronoded by a pale fence, which the tenants of the
manor were boond to keep in repair* The estate passed throqgh
several distingnished families, till 14 Henry VL it descended to
Sir Edward Neville, a yoonger son of the first Earl of West*
aoreland, by his marriage with the daughter and sole heir of
Richard, Earl of Worcester and Lord Bergavenny, in whose
right also he succeeded to the latter title* He died in 1480,
mid from him this estate has» with other possessions, been trans-
mitted to the present noble proprietor.
The ancient mansion of Eridge, though never the principal
re«dence of the Neville family, and only used as a hunting**
seat, was on a large scale. It would appear, from the parts
which still remain, to have been a regular quadrangle. The
old gallery, a large handsome room, occupies the entire front
of the modem edifice ; but as the foundations of the building
extend considerably beyond the present front, it is conjectured
that this gallery formed one of the imier aides of the square*
II was sufficiently spacious to aflford accommodadons for Queen
Elisabeth, who in her progress through part of Kent and Sussex,
in 1573, visited Eridge, where she passed six days» and gave
audience
V Aminek't Tuobridfe Wellt »nd itt Nf ighbourbood, p. 7$.
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jaudmce lo the French ambassador.* It was a visitor at tUs
hoase who« ia the beginning of the followii^ century, discover*
pd the medicinal virtnes of the chalybeate water of this neigh-
bourhood* and thus became the founder of the ceiebrity of
Tanbridge Wel]8.t From the time of Charles IL Bridge ap*
pears to have been altogether deserted by iu noble owners ;
much of the building was pulled down for the sake of the ma»
terials, and the whole demesne exhibited marks of total neg*
lect. At length the present Earl of Abergavenny, having dis*
|[M)s^d of Kidbrooke, near East Grinstead, turned his attention
towards this dilapidated mansion of his ancestor^ which he re^
paired, or rather rebuiltt as it now appears.
Bridge Castle is an irregular edifice, constructed, as its name
implies, in the castellated style, embattled and flanked with
found towers^ but >rithou^ any imitatiqn of ancient architecture
in
* It it related thtt the qoeen prolonged her stay iq order to recover from
the fBtigoei which the had incorred during her perlloos journey. On thii
Hibject Lord Burleigh in m letter to the Earl of Shrewsbury, from Mr. Oulde-
tod's houM at Hemptted, rnyi, that " the queen had a hard begbmiiig cf
her progreit in the wild of Kpnt, and some partof SipaMi, where furely were
more diingeroi^s rocfcf and Talleyi and much wone ground than wai in tha
Peak i but that they were then bending to Rye, and bo to Dover, where thej
Bhoold have amevdi." .Stryp^> Anp. II. 31^.
t This was Dudley, Lord North, a young nobleman of good abilities but
dissolute manners, who, having mjuied his constitution, retired to Bridge fbr
the benoflt of a pure sir and the advantage of seclusion from his ordinary ha-
bits of dissipation. In his excursion^ through this wild countryt his attontioft
^as excited by the ochreoos appearance of the water. He was induced to
try its efscts, and Received so much benplit tl^at he returned the following
summer, an4 perMvered in the nsp of the newly discovered medicine with
such success that his health was completely re-eitablished, and he lived to
the advanced age of 85. He wrote a curious work intituled a Forett promii'
€uou» tf severai Ssosmw froduetient printed in 16Sr, in a marginal note to
|vhich he says;-— ^' The use of Tnnbridge and Epsom waters for health snd
core I first made known to London and the king's people; the Spaw is a
chargeable and inconvenient journey to sick bodies, besides the money it cat*
ries out of the kingdom> and inconvenience to religioo."
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17k S^BSBX.
in tbe doors, windows, or other details. It stands on a boM
eminence in the midst of a park well wooded and watered, com-
prehending abont 9000 acres, and a demesne of near 7000. In
this mansion, which is rather calcnlated for comfort than osten-
tation, is a portrait which has been handed down in the family
as an original of the king«making Earl of Warwick, to whom
the estate once belonged; hot which is probably a copy of
some mde original that has long since perished.
In the park on a high ground between Frant and Maylield, .
are the remains of a fortification which is ascribed to the Saxon
intaders of this country, and yet retains the name of Saxonbury
HilL Tbe foss, plainly discernible, encloses an area of two
acres, having but one outlet ; the apex of the hill within is
formed of a compact body of stone on which doubtless was
erected some strong fortress. Another place in this park called
Dane's Gate is presumed to have been part of a military way
communicating between Crowborogh, indisputably a Danish
station, and Saxonbury Hill.
GLTN9B is a neat pleasant village on the bank of tbe Ouse^
in which is the ancient seat of Lord Hampden. In very early
times it belonged to a family of its own name whose heiress
marrying Sir Richard Walleys, it continued in that race of
knights for five generations, and then went by the co-heiress
about the time of Henry VI. to tbe Morleys, a family of great
fame and respectability in these parts, who continued here dis-
charging the highest provincial offices till abont 1680, when
Glynde passed in marriage with the widow of William Morley,
Esq. to John Trevor, Esq. eldest son of Sir John Trevor, secre-
tary of state to Charles II. On the death of his eldest son in
1719, the estate devolved to the Hon. John Trevor, from whom
it seems to have gone immediately to Dr. Trevor, late bishop
of Darham, who made many improvements here ; and, dying in
1771, \th this seac to his brother Viscount Hampden, entailing
it with the honour. His eldest son is the present proprietcH:;
the family, however, reside but little at this place. The man-
t ¥^^^^
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sion IB A noble pile of boilding of the age of Qoeea JBlisabeCh. ;
the fronty which looks towards the north, exhibiting namerouf
baj-windows and other rich ornaments of antiquity. The ter*
race commands a fine view of the surroanding country.
The church, in the Grecian 8tyle» was finished in 1765, under
the direction of Mr. John Maurice of Iicwes, and at the expense
of the late bishop of Durham. Like most of the churches of this
county it is built of flint, and faced viith stone, having a spa-
cious portico, over which is a large shield containing the
arms, of the see of Durham, impaling those of Trevor. This
coat also appears in painted glass, and the large east window is
richly adorned with scriptural and other paintings. Here on
flat stones removed from the old church are some sepulchral
inscriptions for the Morleys, and on a silver plate is the follow-
ing memorial for the founder :-—
RiCHABD TllKTOR>
Bishop of Durham,
foarth ton of John ix>rd Treror,
Bom Sept. ao. tTOT,
Pied June 9. 1771.
In this parish about half a mile north-west of the church is
Olynde-Boum, which for about two centuries has been the seat of
the family of Hay, which produced in the last generation a poet
of some celebrity, well known for the deformity of his body and
the elegance of his mind. William Hay, Esq. entered into public
life, was a member of Parliament, wrote an ingenious Essay an
Drformity,* and celebrated in a poem, after the manner of
Cooper's
• *' Bodily defonnitj/' mj» Hr. H^ in thin wotk, " it very rare ; «Bd^
thereibre, a penon so dtstingniahed must natorally think that he has bad ill
Inck in a lottery where there are above a thousand prites to one blank.
Among 568 gentlemen in the House of Commons I am the only one that ii
so. Thanks to my worthy constitoents, who never objected to my person f.
«nd 1 hope never to give them canse to object to my behaviour. They arc
uot like a venal borough, of which there goes a story, that though they never
took exceptions to any nan's character who came up to tMr price i y«t they
smm rejected the best bidder becauM bu was a Negin/*
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1*4
SUSSEX.
Cooper's llilh lilodnt Caburn, a noble hill in this parish, which
' con^mands magnificent views, and affords him an* opportanity
of introdacing the principal features of the county in Terses
very often extremely beautiful. The mansion is partly an-
'tient and partly modern ; the lawn, water, and surroonding hills,
are very bold and beautiful.
In that part of the parish of Lamberhurst which is situated
in this rape, and close to the west side of the Bewle a smaJl
stream, that here forms the boundary between the counties
<)f Sent add Sussex, stands Scotney Castle, an ancient castellat-
ed mansion, which at a very early period belonged to a family
6f the i^me name. In the reign of Henry IIL it was held by
Walter de Scoteni ; and though he was tried and hanged at
IKHnchester, in 1959, for administering poison to Richard Earl
of Gloucester and William de Clare, his brother, the estate does
not appear to have been forfeited to the crown. It was possess-
ed in the reign of Edward IIL by the Ashbarnhams firom whom
k passed, under Henry V. to Archbishop Chichely. One of
the mandates of that prelate, dated from Scotenye, April S,
1418, shews that he occasionally resided at this place. With
Florence, his niece, it went to the family of the Barell^, in
whom it was vested till 1774. The present proprietor Edwaid
Husscy, £sq« has long been a constant resident at Scotney,
which he has much ornamented and improved*
There are but small remains of the ancient edifice which was
castellated as early as the time of Richard VL It bad at eaeh
angle a round machicolated tower, of which the southern alone
remains; the other three having been polled dows and the
stones employed in bmlding the Court Lodge at Lamberhurst.
The gafe-house with a gnard«room over it was a strong build*
ing, of which two uprighu are still standing: the moat which
surrounded the castle aUo remains. The modem house is a
handsome stone building, and was erected by theDarells firooia
desiga of Inigo Jones: it is reputed to be partly in Kent and
.partly is Sussex, the ri?er, which difides the eenrtin^ having
f foTBierly
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SUSSEX. I7i
formerly nm through the centre of the ground plot on which
it stands.
At Mayfisld, on the eastern border of this rape^ was a pa-
lace of the archbishops of Canterbury. Eadmer, in the life of
St. Dunstan, who died in 988, seems to imply that it was buik
by that prelate, who, he says, here erected a wooden church*
The life of this saint as related by Osbert^ Badmer, and other
monkish writers^ is filled with accounts of miracles wrought by
him, and also of bickerings and conflicts with the devils in all
which Satan met with more than his match. We are toM that
the archbishop performing in person the ceremony of dedicat-
ing Mayfield church, and, according to the accustomed form,
going in procession round the building, observed that it was out
of the line of sanctity, or, in other words, that it did not stand
due east and west; on which he gently touched the edifice
with his shoulder, and moved it into its proper bearings, to the
great amazement and edification of all the spectators.
From the many deeds and instruments dated at this place,
Mayfield seems to have been a favourite residence of the arch-
bishops. In 1339 a provincial council was assembled here, aC
which a constitution passed relating to holidays; and in 1368
another council was held at Mayfield on the same subject In
■this mansion also several of the metropolitans ended their
days; as Simon Mepham in 1333; John Stratford in 1348,
and Simon Islip, after a residence of a year and a half in
la
* " The circumttancM atteacling tho death of Arehbiibop ttlip, as exem-
plifying the habits of (he times, and the dangers bicurred from the wretched
state of the country and the deficiencies in every kind of aeconmodalion,
.^ill be deemed sufliciently curioas to justify their insertion here. As the
archbishop, then advanced id years* was travelling from his palace at Otford
towards that of Mayfield, on the road between Sevenoaks and Tunbridge, he
fell from his horse into a dirty slough. It seems that his Grace was 'com«
pleteJy beroired and wetted, yet did he pursoe hit journey without changing
cWHies ; and afterwards falling asleep, as tbei recorder of the event ststts.
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179 avMEs.
In 43 Henry UL the arcbbiiliop «bteiiMd » ciMrle* fcr •
market and fairs to be held at Mayfield ; and a grant of a mar-
ket and two fiurs was made by Richard IL in hk 15tli year ;
bat this was probably only a confirmation of the former ckar-
ter. In 1389 the ehsrch, and almoft the whole tillage;, were
destroyed by fire.
The manor and mansion, to which waa ibrmerly attachod z
park» were sarrendered by Archbishop Cranmer to Henry Vllf.
who in 1545 granted the estate to Sir Henry North. By him
it was soon afterwards alienated to Sir John Gresham, and
descended to his next brother Sir Thomas, who made it his
principal seat. Whilst in his occopation it vras hooonred
with the presence of Queen Elisabeth ; and in memory of this
vbit one apartment was called the qoeen's chamber. We are
told in the Bu^aphia Brttannica, on the aothority of Sir Tlu^
mas*8 manuscript journal, that the ralue of the fomiture was
estimated at 75531. ; but whether this was the Taltie of the
goods in the queen's chamber only, or of those in the whole
mansion* is not clearly expressed. By the will of Sir Thomas
this manor and estate passed to Sir Henry Ntsvill, Knt .whose son
sold it for 63871. to Thomas May, ]^. of Burwash. In 1#
James I. it passed into the family of Baker, with which it rcr
mained till a late alienation transferred it into that of the Re? •
Mr. Eerby, vicar of Mayfield.
This palace, whose ancient name is lost in the less noble iq>p
pellation of Mayfield Place, was in a tolerably perfect state in
the early part of last century, when the roof and floors were-
taken down, and much of the stone and other materials was
employed in erecting several houses in the neighbourhood.
The lofty stone arches, however, were led standing, becaose
Ihey were jndged inadequate in value to the trouble and
expense of throwing them down. The east end has been
Jong converted into a farm-house, where are exhibited 9l
Donstan's
w f—JswIayMifs CMMM, hs was in oonscqaence leiaed witk a stroke of the
jpslsy which occMioosd hb death."— (Amiiick's Taabiidge Wclli^ p. 68.)
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tVSSBZ. 177
DoDttaa'fl anvil and iiammer, and the identical tongs vitb which
he so courageously 8Qize<i the crafty tempter, ^hen accosting
him in the form of a beaatiful female ; hut as the rustic cicerone
at the same time exhibits parts of Dunstan's armour, and tlie le-
gend no where intimates that the saint was a warrior, this ciir«
cumstance is certainly calculated to excite some doubt respecting
the genuineness of the whole. Here is a very large room, which
still goes by the name of the Quemi's Chamber.
On the atone roantle-piece of another apartment, called ths
kitchen«cbarober, is engraved the date 1371 ; and on the dexter*
aide ^i the door of the anti-room adjoining is the coat of the see
of Canterbury. The arches of the great hall yet remain. Its
dimenaiona within are 68 feet by 3d. In each of the side walls
are tbvee very lofty windows, and space for a fourth ; and in the
centre of the nppex end was a seat for a throne, the stone fret,
work. of whose back is yet to be seen in the. walL The gate*
boose or porter's lodge coutiunes, entire, and with the gate-way
built up forma a dwelliog-liouse.
Stahmkr, though lying in the midst of the rape of Lewes,
nevertheless belongs to that of Pevensey. Here was an ancient
seat of the Michelbornes, one of whom sold it to Peter Gott,
Esq. receiver general of the county. At his death by his own
hand, the manor and estate were seized under an extent from
the Crown, and purchased by Henry Pelbam, Saq. who, about
17*24, pulled down Keunards, the ancient residence of the
Chaloaers, in the parish of South Mailing, and built the present
mansion with part of the materials. His grandson Thomas Pel-
bam succeeded, at the decease of the Duke of Newcastle, in
1768, to the title of Baron Pelham of Stanmer, and was in 1801
created Earl of Chichester, which honour descei^ded with his es«
tates to his son the present earL
The house stands low, about midway between Lewes and
Brighton. It is a plain stone edifice, forming with the wings
tliree sides of a square ; the principal front, lacing the east, pro-
jects a little in the centre, and is terminated with a pediment
Vo*-. XIV. 21 The
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«}78 &G88ftX.
The maatton iocloses a quadrangular court 011 ibe opposite aUe,
wbefe it adjoius to the pleasure-frrounda. The late earl made
great improvements here, especial ly in the |>ark, which he laid
oat with mach taste aud judgment. The aurfiMe is pleasingly
-diversified ; but the wood consists chiefly of young pUntations.
At a little distance in frout of tlie mansion stands the paridi
church, a neat modem building, which contains nothing remark-
able. The park comprehends the whole parish and village of
Stanmer, including about eighteen houses, aud 120 inhabitants.
In the parish of Withyham, at the northern extremity of the
rape, was Buckhurst, for above u\x centuries the mansion and
estate of the Sackvilles, ancestors of the ducal house of Dorset,
who derived from it the first title by which they were ennobled.
Early in the aeventeenth centary, after that family bad obtained
the more eligible residence of Knole, in Kent, part of this edifiae
was pnDed down, and the hospital called SackviUe College, in East
Grinstead, erected with the materials. A tower of good masonry
is the only portion yet remaining.
Before the destruction of Buckhurat, another boose had been
erected on a very beautiful situation in Stamelmtd Park, which
was separated by a road only from that of Buckhurst It is
said to have been designed as a residence for the steward; but
received considerable additions from the first Duke of Dorset,
who made it his occasional summer retreat. Hb son. Lord George
Oermaine, afterwards created Viscount Sackville, had a lease of
this place granted .him for life, and constantly resided here during
the sommer, till his decease in 1785. Stoneland ha^ now for
some years been inhabited by liml Whitworth and the Duchess
of Dorset, who have mucli improved the house and grounds ; and,
having reunited to the paii. a portion of what once constituted
that of Bockhnrst, have restored to the whole the name of ^ticA-
hurst Park*.
About
•• Sir William Burrell wyt, that in Stoneland House is preserved a &urvey
of the Buckhurst and Stoneland estates ; in which is a small view of tlic an.
cient hodie of Buckhorst, with a square tower at each angle ; and nkewisc a
vfew of Withjham cborch befoi^ it was fle»trojcd hy lightoing tirt66S.
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sBaeaB
AtxMii t#o miles tt^m Biicklmrst was Boiebrohtj aaofter re«.
iideuee of Ibe fimily of Saekville, into, which it wag canried
by nlarriage with the heiress of Edward Dalyngrige, la that
hoase it oontinaed till the reign of James ]. when it was again
alieaatad by narriago to the ToftDus, Earls of Thaaet, one of
whom, dying without male issue« bequeathed thia estate to cha^^
ritahLe parposea. It was consequently sold in 1770, under ade-«
coeeofthe Court of Chancery, and pnrchased by Lord George
Gemaine, who, when afterwards created a peer, tsok from thia
place hia second title of Baron Bolebroke. At length it waa
again united to the Utrge possessions of the house of l>orse| ia
1T90, when it was bought by the late Duke of the present
Viaoount Sackville.
Bolebroke House, to which were formerly attached a park
and demetfie» waa one of the earliest brick edifices in this coun-
try, if, as we are told, it was built about the middk of the fif-i
iKBth oentury. Much of it still remains, from which the ori-
ginal phui may he traced* A tower gateway cQvere4 with i?y
Ibrma a factnresqttc ol^t, and afibrds a specimen of the style of
the building. At what time it was first suffered to go to decay wa
are not informed; but it waa probably on the transfer of the pro«
perty to the Tufton fi^mily.
THE RAPE OF HASTINGS,
forming the eastern angle of the county, is bounded on the west
by the rape of Peyenscy, on the north by Kent, and on the
south and east by the British channel. It is subdivided into
thirteen hundreds, and ibrty-five parishes ; and comprehends four
market towns : Battle, Hastings, Rye, and Wtnchelsea.
Battle,
anciently a small Tillage, called EpUm, received itif modem i^p-
pellation from the meewrable conflict between William, Duke of
Normandy, and Harold, King of England, which transferred the
212 crown
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IM 8t;88F.X.
crown of tbe latter to a new race of Aovereigfta, and which ii
commonly termed tlie battle of [f attiugs, though (bogbt «p«B tbe
apot where this town now 6tattd)$.
The circumataucc s which led to this important eTont are too
well known to need repeating here : suffice it therefore to obsenre,
that on the I4th of October, 10G6, after an eugagemeat, which
fafited from morning till suu-aet, and whicb seemed worthy, by
the Talonr displayed by both armies and both commandeia, to
decide the fate of a mighty kingdom, William obtained a com-
plete victory with the loss of near 15,000 men. The alangbter
of the English was far more coiiairerable : their slain, if we may
believe the accounts of some of our historians, amounted to 60,000 ;
bot it seems more probable that this may have been the total
number of those who fell on this occasion.
In compliance with a vow which he bad made before the ea^
gagement, the Conqueror began, the year following, to build an
abbey, in order that constant thanks and praise might be given to
God for this victory, and continual prayers offered up for the
souls of tbe slain. Tliat part of the field where the fight had
raged most fiercely was chosen for the site of tlie edifice, the
high -altar standing on the very spot where, according to some,
the dead body of Harold was found ; or, aa others say, where his
standard was taken up. This abbey the king dedicated to St
Martin, and filled wkh Benedictine monks from that of Mar-
Qiontier in Normandy. He conferred on it various prerogatives
and immunities, similar to tWe enjoyed by the monks of Christ
Church, Canterbury 4 srxh as the exclusive right of inquest in
all murders committed wilhin their lands ; treasure-trove, or the
property of all treasure discovered on their estates ; free-warren
and exemption for tliemselves and tenaato from all epl^^copal and
ether ecclesiastical jurisdiction ; the right of sanctuary for their
church in cases of homicide, besides many other privileges. lie
also granted to tbe abbot the royal power of pardoning any con*
demned thief whom he sliouid pass or meet going to execution.
The fennder provided amply for the subsistence of the comma-.
nity
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SUSSEX.
181
nity, to which he gave all the land for a leagMe round their
hottae, and various manors and churches in diilerent counties.
He roade an offering to the convcutnal church of his sword and
the royal rohe worn by him at his coronation^ which the monks
eareftilly preserved^ and exhihitcd as great curiosities. They
possessed likewise a roll of all the Norman gentry who came into
England with the Conqueror, on which they set a high valuer
though, according to some of our antiquaries, its authority is little
more to be depended upon than some of the pedigrees of modem
heralds, William would have augmented his bounty to a suifi*
eiency for the miUAtenance of 140 monks, had not death pre*
.vented the execution of his design.
This house, to which the abbey of Brecknock in Wales was
made a cell, was governed,, from its foundation to its suppression,
by thirty-one abbots, wito enjoyed the distinction of the mitre.
At the dissolution of religious houses it was surrendered 30
Henry VIII. when its annual revenues were valued, according to
Dagdale, at 8801. ; but> as Speed says, to 9871. A pension of
661. I3s. 4d. was settled on the abbot, and inferior sums on the
other officers and monks, to the number of sixteen or seventeen
persons. The site of the monastery was granted to one Gilmer,
who pulled down great part of the buildings in order to dispose of
the materials, and afterwards disposed of the estate to Sir An*
thpny Browne. His descendants began to convert the remains
of the edifi^ into a mansion, which coutluned unwished, till
the property was sold by Anthony, Viscount Montague, to Sic
Thomas Webster, who made it his resi deuce. The present owner
is Sir Godfrey Webster, Bart, who, in 1^12^ was elected one of
the knights of the shire for this county.
Battle Abbey stands on a gentle rise, with a bsaoliful coaoav»
sweep before it of meadows and woods confined by. woody h\kkm^
which form a valley winding towards Hastings, where it meetn
the sea. Its ruins bear ample testimony to its ancient maguifi-
eence ; and their circuit, computed at not less than a mile, proves
Ibe extensive scale of the establi.Hhment. Theic style demon-
2 13 suatea
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182 SUSSEX,
strates that the edifice, or at least the greater part of 1%
rebuilt in the time of the later Henries, vhen archttectnre haj
laid aside the Saxon heaTiness, and assamed a lighter and more
embellished form. The remains occapy nearly three sides of a
Wge sqaare ; the fbnrth haying probably been taken doirn to
admit a view of the country, when the middle side was converted
int6 a modern habitation. The grand entrance, a large square
building, embattlcci at the top with a handsome octagon tower at
toch coiner, faces the town, and is a very rich and elegant piece
of Gcrthic architecture : the front is adorned with a series of
fO'ches and neat pilasters. This gate-way, which, with th^ ad-
joining buildings, is affirmed by Bnck to have been part of iht
original structure, cannot, as Bishop Lyttelton obsetves, be older
than the time of Henry VL* Here were formerly held the ses-
sions, and other meetings for transacting the business of the
town ; but so little attention was paid to keep the building in
repair, th«t the h>of has fallen in, and rendered it unfit for the
purpose. The aide of the square opposite to the gate- way con-
sists 6idy of two long, low, parallel walls, which formerly sup-
sported a row of chambers, and terminated in two elegant torrcts,
onoe forming part of anoth^ gate. The remaining side of the
«|aadrangie, whi6h is converted into a dwelliug-house, has suf-
fered (he greatest depredations. Here stood the abbey-ehurch,
llioogh the ground-plot cannot now be traced. It was doubtless
« 'very beautiful piece C|f architecture. The only vestige^i of it
lire nine elegant arches, which seemed to have belonged to the
Inside •of a i;loister : they are now filled up, and appear on tlie
bulside of the house. Here, as Gilpin feelingly observes, '' all
is transposition ; and the imagination is left to conceive the bean-
iifnl efiect which a Gothic tower, and the remains of broken aisles
aad ckMSlflM, would have had in the room of a patched and awk-
ward habitation.'^t Contiguous to the great diorch are the ruins
of
* Church Notes, in manuscript, in the Libiory of the Antiquarian So^
Ciety'
t <N>servau'oiis on the Coasts of fiampsbire, Sussex, and Kenta p. 2p,
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SU8fl£X« IfiOi
of a hall, probably the refectory of the monks, which affords no-
thuig intereattng ; but there fa another building of the kind, a.
little detached from the abbey, which is eminently beautiftilj^
though its dimensions, 166 feet by 35> arc not quite propor-
tioned. It has twelve windows on one side, and six on the other.
The original purpose of this superb room, now used as a barn,
seems to have been to entertain the whole country when the
monks gave a general feast to their tenants. Uuder the hall^'
which is raised by a flight of steps, are crypts of free-stone,
divided by elegant pillars and springing arches, which form a
curious vaulted building, now converted into a stable. This is
evidently the most ancient part of the present remains of the
abbey : the whole is in a good style of Gothic, probably of the
age of King Stephen, or Henry II. with the exception of a pon*
derons roof,. which is a modern acquisition.
The town of Battle certainly owed its origin to the foondalion
of the abbey. It consists of one street, running from north-west
to south-east; and, in 1601, comprehended, with the parish, 291
houses, and 2040 inhabitants. Henry I. granted to the town a
charter for a weekly market, which conttnned to be held on Sun-
day till the beginning of the seventeenth century, when it was
removed to Thursday. In the neighbourhood of the place are
several mills for the manufacture of gunpowder, belonging to
]kfr. Harvey. Their produce has long been celebrated for its
excellence, and is surpassed by that made at Dartford alone.
Besides the abbey, the only object in this town worthy of no^
tice is the church, the incuipbent of which is styled dean of Ba^
tie. It is a very handsome edifice, consisting of a nave, chancel,
two aisles, and a substantial tower. The windows of the north
aisle are adorned with numerous figures, portraits, and devices,
in painted glass.
Li a recess in the north wall of the chancel is a noble altars
monument to the memory of Sir Anthony Browne, standard-
bearer to Henry YIll. which is a very early specimen of tliai
wi%ed style of architecture which succeeded, and, by degrees,
I A totally
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184 8C88EX.
totellj supplanted the Gothic. He ti represented lying ob bis
iMtck, ID Armoar^ and adorned with the insignia of the garter.
Beside him is the effigies of his lady, in the habit of the times.
This chnrch also contains soeral cuiious brasses, and other
sepalchral memorials of considerable antiquity.
Hastings,
the capital of this rape, to which it gives name, is situated in a
valley that forms a beautiful amphitheatre, sloping to the sea oo
the south, and bounded on the east and west by lofty hills. U
principally consists of two parallel streets, Higli^Streei, and
Fisk^Street, running north and south, and separated by a small
stream called the Bourne, which discharges itself into the sea.
The town is divided into three parishes, which, iu 1601, contained
542 houses, and 29S2 iufaabitauts. With the suhsaqneut acces-
sion to the population it must now be more tlian double the
amount in 1730, when it was stated by Dr. Frewen at 1636 per-
sons: a circumstance which affords no unfair standard for csti-
mating the increased prosperity of the place since that period.
It has two weekly markets on Wednesday and Saturday ^ and
/airs on 26th July, and 23d and 24th October.
Respecting the origin of Hastings nothing is known with cer-
tainty. According to the author of the Saxon Chronicle, it de-
rived its name from a Danish pirate, who erected a small fortress
here, as he was accustomed to do wherever he landed for plun-
4ler. In the reign of Athelstan, A. D. 924, it was a town of
aufficient importance to have a mint. It held the first place among
the original cinque-ports ; and, with its dependent members, was
bound, on receiving a legal summons or notice of forty days, to
.provide twenty -one ships properly equipped for war> each manned
with twenty-one able seamen. In consequence of this obliga-
tion Hastings, in common with ^the other cinqut- ports, pos-
sessed, and still enjoys, certain privileges and immunities, as
jrelated in a former part of this workt*
Haslings
• For A general nccount of the Ciuque-ports^ 5ce Beaut Us, Vol. VIII.
p.l010— lOiC.
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*^PPP?rr:«*?^P|Pf'
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SI7S8KX. 186
Hastings received charters from Edward the Confessor, Wil-
liam the Conqoeror, and several subsequent monarclis down t#
James II. but it was that of his predecessor which ^ave the eor*
poratton its present form, it is composed of a mayor, jurats^
and freemen, is exempted from toil, and is empowered to hold
courts of judicature in capital cases. Hastings has, since 43
Edward III. returnod two members to Parliament, elected by
the mayor, jurats, and freemen, resident, and not receiving alms,
who are about forty in number.
. On a lofty rocky clifi' westward of the town are some bmall
remains of a very ancient Cattle. At what period, or by whom
it was erected, we find no account in any of those writers who
have treated of our topographical antiquities. From its situa*
tion, which most have been peculiarly favourable to the ancient
mode of fortification, it is more than probable that a fortress
enlisted here long "before that which the Danish rovers, under
Hastings their leader, are said to have constructed. This con*
jecture receives some support from a passage in the Chronicles of.
Dover monastery, printed in Leland's Collectanea^ which says,
" that when Arviragus threw off the Roman yoke, it is likely
he fortified those places which were most convenient for their
invasion, namely, Richliorough, Walmore, Dover, and Hastings."
Bishop Lyttelton, however, is inciinod to think that here was
originally a Roman fortress built as a defence against the inva-
sion of tlie pirates. He farther observes, that though William
the Conqueror, as we are told, ran up a fort at Hastings just
before his engagement with Harold; this could not have been
his work, as it would have required more time and labour than
his circumstances could then have allowed ; and concludes that
William might probably have repaired the old Roman castle,
and have placed a garrison in it. In the history of Canterbury,
i^ritten by Eadmer, it appears that in the year 1090, almost all
the bishops and nobles of England were assembled by royal an*
thority at the castle of Hastings, to pay personal homage to
King William II. before his departure for Normandy.
Little
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190 SUSSEX*
Little more couceruiBg thb castle occurs in history, than tkat
within it wss a fne royal chapel dedicated to the Virgin Bfary^ in
whi^h were a dean and several secnlar canons or prebendaries. II
is supposed to have been founded by one of the earls of En while
proprietor of the easUe. Prynne, in his History of Papal Usur-
pations, records Yarious circumstances relatiTO to a dispute be*
tween King Kdward III. and the Bishop of Chichester and Arch^
bishop of Csnterbary, concerning the right claimed by them of
visiting this chapel ; which, however, in the reign of Henry VL
was placed under the juriodiction of the former of those prelates.
Grose has very unaccountably oonfi>nnded this collegiate chapel
with the priory of the Holy Trinity. At. the dissolution, 26
Rei»y VIII. the deanery was valued at twenty poaods per annno«
and the seven prebends at 411. 13s. 5d.; and the whole was
granted by the same king, in his 38th year, to Sir Anthony
Browne.
What remains of the castle approaches nearest in shape to two
■ides of an oblique spherical triangle, having the points rounded
oC The base, or south side next to tJie sea, completing the
triangle, is formed by n perpendicular craggy ciiiTaliOut 400 feet
in length, upon which are no vestiges of a wall or other fortifi- *^
cation. The east side is made by a plain wall measuring near
300 feet, without tower or defence of any kind. The adjoining
side, which ftices the north* west, is about 400 feet long ; conse-
quently the area included is about an acre and one-fidfa. The
walls, no where entire, are about eight feet thick. The gate-
way, now demolished, was on the north side near the northern-
most angle. Nor far from it, to the west, are the remains of a
small tower, enclosing a circular flight of stairs ; and, still far-
tlier westward, a sally-port and ruins of another tower. On thn
east side, at the distance of about 100 feet, ran a ditch 100 feet
in breadth ; but both the ditch, and the interval between it and
the wall, seem to have narrowed by degrt-cs as tliey approached
the gate, and to have terminated under it. On the north-west
side was anothc^r ditch of the like breadth, commencing at the
7 cUff
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BtTfiSBH, 191
diff opposite to the westernmost aiig^le, and bearing away dmost
^e north, leaving a level intermedfate space, which", opposite lo
the sally-port, was 180 #eet in breath.
This oastle, together with the rape of Hastings, which aSwayi
accompanied it, was given, with many other large ostatesy hy
William tlieConqueror to Robert Eail of £tt, a confidential servani
and adviser of that monarch. By one of bis desoendants it was
forfeited to the Crown during the reign of Henry III. who ex*
changed it with John de Drenx, Earl of Richmond, for oeftaiw
lands belonging to the honour of Richmond. In his posterity
it continued for some time ; bnt, in ld99 was again in the-Crown*
Boring the succeeding centnry it was for a shoit period kti Vm
possession of different persons, till Henry lY. in 1413, granted
it to 9ir John l^elhara, by whom it was conveyed to Thoman
Hoo, afterwards created Lord Hoo and Hayings. His ^mily
enjoyed it till 1461, when the eotate was alienated to Sir William
Hastings, on whom the title of Lord Hastings was conferred bj
Edward IV. For his ftdelity to the children of his sovereign that
spirited nobleman was sacrificed by their ambitious node, who
seized his possessions ; but this honour was restored to his ooa
by Henry YII. and confirmed to him by his oucoessor. By am
of his descendants, who were invested with the earldom of Hvn-
lingdon, the castle of Hastings was sold, together with the ma*
nors of Crowhurst, Borwash, and Borelham, for the sum <rf dSOOU
and a reserved rent of 131. 6s. 8d. to Thomas Pelham, Esq, of
Langhton, to whom the perpetuity was oonfimed by James I. in
1605. In his family it has evor since remained, and at present
belongs to tlie Earl of Chichester, to whose father it was bo«
<|ueathed by the first Duke of Newcastle.
A little to the west of the cliflf on which the oasUe stands, was
« Priory of Black Canons, fi>onded in the reign of Richard I. by
-Shr Walter Bricet, and dedicated to tlie Holy Trinity. At tlie Dis-
nolution the annoal revenues of this priory were estimated, by
Ougdale's account, at oil. but according to Speed at 671.
8op9e fragments of walk are the only remaini of this nonasstio
edificcj
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las SITBSEX.
tii&€9, on the site of irhich stands a &rm*ho«8e di&tii^aislied hy
the name of Vhe Priory. Close to the &nn*yard is a | iece «f
water at the, bottom of which, when drained off sone yean ago,
was disoorereJ a large hole near dO feet in depth, with the re-
^Nuns of a sluice, deep ga^es, and timbers of prodigious dimen-
sions: probably the relics of works eoBstnicted by the monks to
protect their habitation from the ravages of the sea.
. . About tbe year 1377, Hastings was homed by the French, and,
vIma rebuilt, was divided into three parishes. Si. Ciemeni's, All
SuinU, and Si. Manx's in the Castle. The two former only
liaTe chnrches, which, within the last half century, were united
into one rectory. They are both very ancient fabrics, but there
is nothing to ascertain the exact date of their erection. The
town had formerly two other churches, St. Michael's and St.
George's, The latter stood in a small field on the eastern hill,
and the last inconsiderable remainaof it were levelled many years
•go.
The Toum-Haii, or Cotin-Aowse, under which is the Market*
phee, was erected in 1700. In the hall is a nhield hearing the
arms of France^ brought from Quebec, and presented to the corpo-
ration by the late General Murray.
This town once enjoyed the advantage of a good harbour, Ibrm*
ed by a wooden pier, which projected in a south-east direction
below the site of the present ibrt. About the beginning of Qneeu
Elisabeth's reign this pier was destroyed by a violent tempest
Laiige pieoes of timber of which it was composed, and vast stones
which formed the foundation, are still to be seen at low water.
The only method of securing vessels from the fury of the waves
is now to draw them up on tbe beach which is here called the
Siude, At the west end of it is a fort mouulbg eleven twelve-
pounders, that serves to defend the town not only against an
enemy, bat also against the encroachments of the sea in boister*
otts weather, which, nevertheless, sometimes occasion consider-
able damage.
The trade, of Hastings is inconsiderable compared with that
which
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St7S8Bir. IHV
which it ferm^ly possessed. It now depeqds chiefly on its
fisheries, which have also roach declined, and a little coaaling-
trade. Still, however, considerable quantities of herrings, macka-
rel, and trawl-fish are caught here, and help to supply the mar-
kets of the metropolis. Boalpbuilding also occupies a consider-
ahle number of hands, and the people of Hastings have gained as'
high reputation for thenr skill in the construction of their vessels'
as for their courage and dexterity in the management of them.
In addition to these branches of industry a lime company esta-
blished here affords some employment. Nine sloops of about 40
tons burthen are regularly engaged from April till November in
hringing the chalk from the Holywell pits at Beachy Head. Th«
kilns, which are situated at some distance westward of the town^
produce upon an avecage about 120,000 bushels of lime in a year.
Another source of prosperity, which Hastings shares with many
other places situated on the coast, is derived from the modem
iashion of sea-bathing, for which purpose it has of late years been
Uie resort of many persons of rank and wealth. For their accom-
modation are kept about 20 bathing-machines, which stand to the-
west of the town, close to a walk recently formed and styled
the Parade. At low water a fine level sand extends to a great
distance, and the shore has aucb a gentle ascent that the advan-
tage of immersion may be enjoyed at any time of the tide. Con-
venient warm baths were also some years since erected by a sub-
scription of the inhabitants. During the season assemblies are
held weekly at the Swan Inn, where is a suitable room with a*
gallery for mosic. From the many agreeable walks and rides;
and the variety of interesting objects with which the vicinity
of Hastings abounds, together with the grandeur of its sea
views, tills place is certainly entitled to the favourable notice
of those whom health or pleasure annually allures to the coast.
Ryb
stands upon an eminence on the west side of the mouth of the
river Rother, at the eastern extremity of this county. According
to
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Uk the MQaeratiM of 1801, it contaiatd witii the {vuith 3tt
hoiiMi^ Mid 2187 ialmbiftaotft. It hu two weekly markets tft
Wednotday aiid Friday, and figuim on Whit-Monday and the
L(Hh of Aogual.
Thin tawo ia a moaihar of the Oinqae-porta aobOTdtnate to Hasi-
i«ga te wbone qoota It oontrihated ^v% ahtps. The coipocatioD^
emttiatiiig of a nayor, jurats, aod freeaMn, ia held by preacriptioii.
Rye haa seat two barons te Parliament ainee 42 Henry III. The
rif ht of eleetioa is vested in the mayor, jnrata, and freemeii, the
itnier being the rctnmiog offieer.
Rye muat be a town of great autii|aity if, aa it aeens to
he i^ireed, we ought here to look for the Partus Novms of Pto-
lemy* No traces, however, exiat to indicate the ooeopatioa ef
this phoe by the Rooiaaa, Its name haa been supposed to be
darived Icem the Ripa of those oonqnerors, but Jeake, in a note
te hia Charters of the Cinqoe-porta, deduces it fima the' British
word iUy, '« signifying a ford, or as some say, a bay ; ia refer-
cnee io the former, importing the place where the rivers Botiier
attd Ree were yet Canlabie; and to the latter, the situation of the
tewn in the bottom er middle of the bay made by the clilb at
Reaehy, and those ai Folkstoue, wheuoe the aea over Rye; and
near the ahors is still culled Rye Bay." The earliest meatiou that
we tad made of it under the present name is on occasioa of a deweut
of the Dunes^ who airiving at the latter end of the year 893 in a
leetefifiOsail. landed aeer R>e, and aeiaed the cai^ of Apul-
^re in Keut EdwaH the Confcssor gam thia place and Wio-
^-> . chcbiu to the abheC aod mouka of Feacamp iu Normawly, hat
Beuffy 11 L lor the better dsfcuoe of the realm iwsuued fosaouioa
of hath these iawna, giving in rTrhange for them the maneci ef
ChsUinham aod Selover in Oleuffslwiihirs; and other lawds in
lhceo«ntyafIiacab.« In the ISth ceBtaiy. WOiiam de Ifues.
who was created Eari of Kent by Kng Stephca, aod died ia
1 1 ei, ereeled hers the lower wtuch atiU beara h» wamr, and o&rr
far the dsfencBuf the to— . In 1^87, Urn aam
Lmbm'k hnak PL 40.
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tempest which orerwhelmed Old WinchelBes^ prodofied a oomI^
lierable change in the situation of its noighboar, Kye ; lor it ait*
tirely altered the course of the river Bother, which had before
discharged itself into the sea at Romneyi bat beiag choked
up there, opeaed a new passage for its current close to this tows*
Daring the reign of Edward III. Rye was encompassed with
walls, but under his anccessor in 1377, it was taken, as Stow in*
timates, through the cowardice of the inhabitants by the Freiieb,
who landed here with five vessels, and, after plandering the plaot
set it on fire, and/' within five hours brought it wholly imto
ashes, with the church that then was there of a wonderful beaiifty^
ooBLveying away four of the richest of that towne priaouers and
slaying 66, left not above eyght in the towne : 42 hogsheads of
wine they carried thence to tlieir ships, with the rest «f their
booty, and left the towae desolate." * Rye waa a second tiiAe
burned by the French in the reign of Henry VI. whea all the an-
cient records and charters of the town are supposed to have pe*
risbed, as, with the exception of some fragments nothing of aa
earlier date than the 27 th of that king is to he found. . Owing la
the ravagea of tlie enemy, the fickleneas of the ocean, and the
proximity of Wiuchelaea, which then engroesed the whole coi»-
merce of this ooaat. Rye continued lor some time in a state of
decay ; till in the 16th century., as Camden informs as, its bar*
hour was restored by the violence of an extraordinary tempest*
and still farther improved by another. From the same writer it
appears to have then been the usual plaoe of eokbarkation for Nor-
mandy. Henry VIL visited the town in the 3d year of his reign,
as did Queen Eliiabeth in 1673b One hundred years later
Charles II. here reviewed the English and French leets lying in
the bay, within sight of the place. Aa Winehelsea declined*
Rye again rose into consequence, and its harbour,, thoagh not the
jnost commodious, has often afforded seasonable relief to vessels
ibeating about the coaat Here two of our kings were obliged to
aee k shelter, on their return from Hanover, liaving been botli dri-
ven
* Aootis, p. t79.
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I9t 8V88SS.
\mkhj storiDft into Rye, George I. in Jamiary 1725, and bis sne-'
eeoBor in Deoenber 1736.
Ipres Coitle, so named atler its founder, b a strong sqoare
pile, with a round tower at each comer. It was originally erect-^
ed for the defence of the town, but in the 14lh century was pur«
chaaed by the corporation, and from the use to which it was ap*
plied, it acquired the appellation of the Court-Honse. On the
erection of the town-hall. It was converted into a prison, and
auch it still continues. Beneath this castle is a battery of 18 guns.
Jtart of ihe walla with whtcli the town was once fortified still
remains; some o( the gates likewise are yet standing, but very
foinotts. There is a handsome Gothic arch in the north or land-
gate which is gAarded on each side by a round tower.
Pennant must be mistaken in his assertion that here was only
one religions house, that of the Augustines. Jeake who resided
in this town and wrote in the early part of last century, says :
'' Besides the chapel of St. Clare (now used for a powder-house)
and the channtry of St. Nicholas, the chancel whereof is stiK
kept for an ammnnition-house, whereto it was couTerted anno 17
Eliz. it had a monastery of the friars hermits of St Augostin,
the chapel whereof is yet standing, erected anno 16 Henry VII I.
and disiiolved by him shortly after with the first dissolution in
the 27th year of his reign."* The chapel of thb house, stilt
known by the name of the Friary, and distinguished by Gothic
windows with neat tracery, is now used as a store-house.
The ancient Church stood near f pres-Tower, on the spot still
called the Old Church-ymrd. The present structure, dedicated ta
St, Mary, is accounted one of the largest parish churches in the
kingdom. It is built of stone in the form of a cross, and long lay
in aruinous condition till repaired andbeuutified about the beginning
of last century. It contains nothing worthy of particular notice.
In the Lower Street is the Free Grammar Schoof, a brick edf-
fice erected in 1636 by Thomas Peacock, -one of the jurats, and
by his will endowed with the* sum of 351. per annum, payable out
oC
* Jes]EV*s Cbtrters erf (he Cinque- ports.
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svtsBx. 193
tf a brm in this parisb. Besides this ilMikitution here it also a
good Frtt Scka0l for the inatraction of poor children. In the
prioeipal atreet» and nearly in the centre of the town is a hand*
some M€arket<-pUu!e, together with a Tmon-kaiL Disseutera of
diflfareat persaasions are nniaeroos here; the^Baptists have a
neat nMeting-hooae, and the M etbodista ha?e recently erected a
handsome chapel.
The old harbonr havi^ic become nearly choked np with sand^
partly on that account and partly in order to gain a considerable
quantity of marah land, it was determined to form a new one by
ontling a large eanal in a more direct line to the sea. This plan
waa accomplished some years ago, and vessels of about two hun-
dred tone now oome up to the qnay, on the north side of the town,
a mile and a half from the entrance. A great improvement waa
efiected by a dam of a singular construction, invented by the
late Rev. Daniel Pape, and thrown acroas the old channel. For
thia contrivance, long deemed impracticahle on account of the
heavy sea and powerful inflnx and reflux of the tide, the So-
ciety of Arts conlerred their gold medal in mechanics for
1804.
The trade of Rye consiats chiefly in its herring and mackarel
fiaheries, and in trawling for flat fish, which are sent to London.
It likewise exports some com and malt» Seven sloops belonging
to this town are pretty constantly engaged in the conveyance of
chalk from the eliffii.aear Eaat Bourne, for the purpose of being
burned intolinM.
which ma3 be justly termed the ahadow of a shade, is a borough
and autfket^town, about thre^ miles ^m Rye and eight from
Hastings, comprehending with the parish 10(( houses, and 627 in-
habitanta. JlU inaignificant weekly market is held on Saturday,
and it haa aiair on the Utb of May.
Aa a member of the Cinque-porta Winchelsea received charters
V0U.X1V. 2K of
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194 SUSSEX.
of ineorporstioti from several of oar monarchs. The corporate
body is entiUed to constsi of a mayor and twelve jurats, but is
seldom eomposed of more than fonr or fife {tersons. The town
also enjoys the privilege of sending two reprssent^if^ to
Parliament; the right of eleetkm is Tested in the corporation
and freemen^ abont forty in nomber, and the mayor is the re*
turning <^cer.
That Winchelsea was % pkce of g^reat antiquity eannot be
doubted, though no records respecting its origin haife found their
way to our time. History, indeed, scarcely makes mention of the
ancient town, so that little more is known concemiog it than
that it was a powerful member of the Cinqne-porls, which con-
tributed ten vessels to the number famished by them for the
public st^ice* From a circnnstance recorded by HoUnshed^ it
appears that during the turbulent reign of Henry UL its ships,
like those of the other ports, practued in their cruizes the most
savage barbarities. While the ambitioua Hoatfort» Earl of Lei>^
cester^ exercised the supreme power which he had wrested from
the hands of his sovereign, they set no bounds to their piracies,
and threw overboard the crews of every ship they met with, whe-
ther Englbh or foreign. Leicester, who shared the booty, of
course winked at their enormities; which, however, in 1266,
drew down upon them deserved chastisement from Ptince Ed-
ward. He attacked Winchelsea, took it by storm, and put to the
sword the principal persons ooncemed in such inhoouin practices,
but spared the rest, and granted to the inhabitauts in general £u*
better terms than they expected. The date of this transaction
proves that the destruction of the old town could not have
happened so early as the period to which that catastrophe is ge-
nerally assigned.
Grose quotes an old book without a title, which describes it in
these words : '' In the month of October in the year 12M, the
moon being in its prime, the sea passed over her accustomed
bounds, flowing twice without ebb, and made so horrible a noiae^
that it was hoard a great way within Uni, not without the asto-
nishmettt
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nishmeDt of the oldest men tliat heard it. Besides Ihis^ at dark'
wight, the aoa seemed to be a tight fire and to born* and the
w^mt to be«t with one another^ ipsoauoh that it vas past the
mariner's skill to save their ships : and to omit others at a place
oalled Hucliebiiru (probably Hither or East BoerneJ thr^ noUe.
and famons ships were swallowed up by the violent rising of tbsi
wavesi, and were drowned* And at Wiuchelsea a certain haveit
eastward^ besides cottages for salt, fishermen's huts, bridges and
mills, abovfe 300 houses by the violent rising of the WKves wer^
drowned/' The saoiie writer also gives a passage from a book
deposited with the records of Rye to this effect : " fie it remem-i
bered that in the year of oar Lord 1387, in the even of St«
Agath, the Virgin, was the town of Wincheisea drowned, and aH
the lands between CUmesden and Hithe.'* He adds, that this
tremendous events though at last sudden, appesA to bw6
given warning of it^ approach, for there is no account of the lostt
of the lives of any of the inhabitants, or mnch of their moveable
property.
The account preserved by Tieland in his IHmerarp seems to
confirm the coirectness of the latter date, and to &s. the period of
the rapid but yet gradual overthrow of the town between the yean
1280 and 1287. He tells us that '« in the space of six or seven
years the old town of Wincheisea fell to a sore and manifest ruin
by reason of the olde rages of the sea;'' and that during. this
time the inhabitants foreseeing the probability of its total de»
strncton, petitioned Edward I. for ground in order to found an*
other town. The king accordingly sent John de Kirkby, bishop
of Ely, who selected for the purpose a spot then occupied only
by rabbits, and belonging to. Sir John Tregose, one Maurice, and
the Abbey of Battle. The king having agreed with the proprie*
tors, alloted IdO aeres. for the new town, which he sutrounded
with walls, *' and the inhabitants of Old Winchelsea^'V continues
Lefend, took by little and little, and boilded iV* Ftoai thia tx-i
prsssion we may reasonably conclude, that before the sea had ab^*
sorbed their former habitations, they had for the most pari trans'^
2K2 ferrfd
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1W BV99t%.
kmd their rdidence to th^r new eettleneat The Utter, es*
co«»ge4 hy the Ikvoar of the eovereign, w|io eentiiraedl to it aA
the prWileget enjoyed h5 the old town^ fnereowd hi hnildings
and population ; but in less than twenty yean was twiee piHaged,
frst by the French, and again by the Spaniards, who landed nenr
hrieigh Head. In 19SS the French once SMire attacked andl
partly destroyed the town, hat were foiled in anoHier at'^
tanpt, which, after haring homed Rye they nade npoo it ift
1977. The abbot of Jiattle, Hamo de Offington, as it is sapponed
' (fer the naaM of ttie prelate who then presided orer that hoose
eanaot be detennined with accuracy) hearing of the destrnetioti
•f Rye, armed his dependents, and threw himself into Winchd-
ssa» which he snccessihny defended against the enemy.
Wtmm the rapid succession of the calamitons cTcnts which fol-
lowed the Anndation of the new town, it nny he fMstioned whc*
ther it was erer completely finished ; hot the many spaciims
erypis and ▼aalts which ha?e been diacovered, afibrd saiieient
ofidence that it was nnmeroosly, if not fully, inhabited. Tho
new town iiDil to decay §nm n cause the tery revene of that
which had occaaioned the ruin of the old one : the sea deserted
its neighbourhood, and left in its place a dreary omnh. In ld7S(»
however, Winchelsea retained so much of its opnience and im-
portance, that Queen Elisabeth, by whom it was visited in that
year, stmek with the general appearance of the town, the splea-
did scarlet robes of the nmyor and jurats, and the numerous gen^-
try who inhabited the place, eomplimented it with the title of
liaie Lomdom. Towards the end of her reign the calamity of a
retiring sea began in earnest to be felt The channel which led
to the harbour was first choked, and by insensible degrees the
whole const was deslKed. The town, abandoned of course by the
nwrchant and trader, declined apace. Its houses and chnrdiea
fell is ruin and desolation spread ofcr the whole compass of the
hill on which it stood : so that a town once eavering n surface two
nules in ciicumfmenee is now shrank into n km honnss in a cor-
ner of its aneioHt site.
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8088BX. 197
The hiU on whUk is nloated all that remaiiu of WinebebM,
it abo«4 a Bule aad a balf from the aea. It was aaciently called
Higban or Pelit Iham, and forned pari of the parish of Ickles*
ham. This hill, about two miles in circuit was once nearly siir*
vouided by the sea as it is now by marshes^ above which it is
eoasideiably elevated. It was originally divided into squares
eaeh eontaiaiiig about two acres and a quarter : their exact nnm*
her is not known, but so many as 39 may still be traeed. The
houses with gardens behind them formed the outline, aad the
alreeU which were spacious, every where intersect each other at
right angles.
In the middle of the town was a la^ square now on moat sides
open to the country. In the centre of it stands the CAurcA, de-
dicated to St Thomas, which from its remains appeals to have
been a beautiful edifice, originally built in the form of a eroia.
The lofty aad spacious chancel, used by the parishioners far di*
vine worship, and three aisles, are all that is now left entire.
The north and south transept form a fine ruin, but there are no
traces of any other part. The exterior is covered with a yenera-
hie coat of thick ivy, which producea a solemn and picturesque
eftct Within are yet left three of the lofty arches which sup-
ported the tower, springing from clustered columns. The south
aisle contains two monuments with effigies of knights templars,
who, if they were actually inttrred here, must have been among
the latest of their celebrated order. One of these appears from
the arms, to have befenged to the family of Oxenbridge, formerly
of great consequence in this part of the county. In the north
aisle are two monumenli of monks, as appears from their habits,
aad in the vestry another figure of a knight templar in excellent
preservation. At the south-west corner of dtbe church-yard, de-
tached from any building stood some years since a solid square
tower, where hung a peal of bells. It is exhibited in Grose's
view, but being thought dangerous, has been taken down.
Two other parish churches, dedicated to St Oiles and St Leo-
nard, were standing within the memory of pmons living in 1575
9K3 vhen
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19S SOSiR.
wben Lamlttrd irrote. The fbmer oe^itpied a tqure mi the
west side of the hill, hat though the kite is known, the tery niiae
hare heen to completely remonsd that not a veatige of the e£ftee
remaint. 8t Leonard's was situated on a hoM proDKNitory^ ex-
tending irregularly towards the west and south-west The east
side of the tower alone has withstood the ramges of time ; tile
other parts having long heen levelled wMi the ground. In this
church was placed a picture or image of the sai»t, as the patnm
of the town, with a vane in his hand. As this vane was move-
file at will, persons desiring a fair wind to hring home thdr re*
latives or friends were allowed to set it as they pleased, and sudi
was the 8u(»erstittotts credulity of the times, that from the per-
fohnance of this ceremony they confidently anticipated the
fulfilment of their wishes.* The parish of 8t Leonard,
which is tery small, is included in the liherty of Hast-
ings.
Winchelsea had also two religious houses, the one of Domini-
cans, or Black Friars, said to have been founded hy Edward 11.
the other of Grey Friars, by William de Buckingham, who dedi-
cated it to the Virgin Mary. Of the latter considerable remains
yet etist under the appellation of the Friaty, The choir of the
church exhibits a magnificent evidence of its ancient grandeur.
It has at the end three Gothic windows^ and four others, narrow,
hnt lofly on each side. An arch at the west part about 26 feet
wide is of uncommon height and beauty ; it stands among trees
in the garden of a private house, and forma an object singularly
striking and noble.
We are told by Grose, that according to tradition Winchelsea
contained fourteen or fifteen chapels, which, as he surmises, might
have belonged to as many religious bouses. Were there any
foundation for this tradition, we can scarcely suppose that Le-
laud would have mentioned only the " two houses of ftrtars,
grey and black,'' and have heen totally silent respecting ah
the rest
Tin
* M«f . Britao. V. 50S.
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BvmkMaL 199
' The Court' HiMue and 6tml «e both of greet antiqiiity, •• the
Saxon or rooiid arches to the doors evittce.
The three gates which defended the approaches to the tovn
called New Gate, Strand Gate, and Land Gate, are yet standing,
thoQgh in a very ruinous condition : ani here and there a fragw
ment of the walls with au exterior foss may still be diBcorered.
The north-east, or Land Gate, leading to Rye, has a round tower
on each side. The arch of the south, or Strand Gate, formed of
Tast rude stoues, is almost flat.
Respecting the nature of the traffic to which Winchelsea owed
its ancient prosperity, we are left entirely to conjeoture. From
its relative situation to Boulogne, and the spacioos vaults fre*
qnently discovered here, it is not improbable, aa Grose observes,
that this place was the mart for French wines imported into Eng.
land before the trade to Portugal was established.
Near Camber Point, which terminates a marshy peninsnla,
about two miles north-east of the town, and half a mile from the
sea, stands Winchelsea or Camber Castle, It was built by
Henry VIH. during his rage for universal fortification in 1699
and 1540, at an expence of 23,0001. ; and is conjectured by some
to have been erected on the site or with the materials of a more
ancient &brio. The main walls, yet tolerably entire, are many
of them of brick cased with square stone. It resembles in its
plan, the other block-houses built about the same period. A
large circular tower, serving for the keep, is surrounded by seve*
ral smaller towers of the same figure, connected by short cur-
tains. Round about the keep was a low battery with chinks for
firing through : these are now below the surfiuM of the eartb,
which proves how prodigiously it must have been rused here.
The causes that led to the erection of this fortress having ceased,
and its preservation having been deemed neither necessary nor
desirable, it was long since dismantled and suffered to &U to
ruin.
In 1628, Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Henei^,
and widow of Sir Moyle Finch, was created countess of Win- ,
2 K 4 Chelsea,
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chalMi, aad INI her daomdbals, wIm hate tSm iaheriled the
cuUon ttf Nottioghaa. WindwbM ttill eoiitio«ei to oMier the
tiaeoTeari.
This pbet gaTa hirth in Iha IM caatary to Rosbkt db
WiHcvaLaEA, who in 1992 waa elevated to tbe archiepiacopal
aee of Canterbury, and wheae charity ia aaM to have been ao ei«
leaaivey that he fed Ibor thoaaaad peraona when com waa cheap
and five thonaaad when it waa dear.*
AaHaoRNHAM haa given nane to a family which Mler tenaa
of atopeodoua antiquity. Tbe Domeaday Survey nakca- laillun
of Piera, Lord of Eabamham, ia the reign of Edward the Con-
/eaaor, aod at the tine of the Nomaa invaaion Bertiam do Ea-
hvmhaa waa aheriffof Sarrey, Saaaex, and Kent By aone of
Aar hiatoriaaa ho ia aaid to have been alain b the fight at Battle,
and by othera to have been beheaded by the Cooqaeror for lefoa-
lag to aarreader Dover Caatle^ of which llarold had appointed
bim governor. Willianii though he conaid«ed thia family aa
boatile to hia intereat, doea not appear to have eonfiacated their
.eatato here, npon which they oontinaed to reside in privacy dar-
ing several aabaeqoont reigna. The first that we find in any ci-
vil office is John Asbbamham, who repreaented this coaoty in
Parliament^ and was sheriff of Sorrey and Suasex moAet Rich-
ard II. and Heary IV. The same odke waa hdd by several of
his descendants. In tbe 17th oeatary, William Aahbomham waa
distiAgaiahed by his loyalty and alloction to Charles I. and waa
one of the first to take up anna in behalf of that monarch, by
whom he waa appointed governor of Weymouth, and nqjor-geaOi-
ral of hia foroea in the weat Joba, his eldest brother, waa groom
of the bedchamber to the same king, and attended bim in hia
escape from Hampton Court to the lale of Wight. Tboagb he
was guilty of an error iu eondactiDg bis sovereign to Colonai
Uammood, governor of the island, yet Clarendon asaarca aa that
*' he was a person of unblemished honour and veracity, and had
not any temptation, and never gave any cause to have bif fidelity
9a9p9Cte4,^
a For an accoant of thii prelate tee Bcaatic|| Vol. VIIl. |i. aoi.
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the
u
I-
?
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I
sosaix* Ml
HU wife, tiie dMgktar aaa Im of WSKmr IM-
Iftiidt of Wart Burton, ia thk oomty, took tiM fint olep lowdo
the recovery of the paternal iniieritaoeo alienated by im Mktti
selling ber wbole estate to lay o»t tbe money in redeeniag Ask-
bnmham. In 1608 his grandson was created by Williaia III.
baron Ashbamham, and the second son of the latter was in 1730
advanced to the dignity of Earl of Ashbombam and Viseonnt 8t*
As^ph. In these hononrs and tbe.fiMnily estates he was sne*
needed in 1737 by his son, who left them at his death, in 181S»
tolhe present earL
A$UmmhaM Hinue, in the midst of an eatensive park, though
aitnated rather low, eommaada a &ie view of Pevenaey Bay and
Beachy Head. It is a spaeioos modem edifiee, and the apart*
meats are adorned with some good pictaiea by Vandyke, Lely,
and other masters ; but at present (1813) this mansion is vnder«
going a th<nroagh repair. The paric contains much fine timber,
and is well stocked with deer. The pleasnre«groaads re>
eeived many embdiishments from the late veneraUe {hn>*
prietor, who added a large sheet of water to their attrae-
tioas.
Not iar from the mansion stands the parish chmth. Here, in
.the Ashbvrnham ehancel are some amgnifioent monuments for
the funily from whom it is named. In the vestry are preserved
the shirt, stained with aome drops of blood, in which Cfaaries h
was beheaded, his watch Which he gave at the place of ezeen-
tion to Mr. John Ashbamham, bis white silk knit drawan, and
•the sheet that was thrown over his body. These relics were be-
queathed in 1743, by Bertfam Ashbnmham, Esq. to the eleik
of the parish and his saccessors for ever, and are exhibited as
great cariosities.
Bodiham CasiU, a small distance eastward of the village of
the same name, is seated near the river Bother, on the border
of the county. Thia aoble pile, still magnificent even in ita
ruins, is supposed to l^ave been built by one of the Dalyn^
griges, a frunily of great fonseqnenee in Sussem in the
Utb
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I4lik 4»d 16lk entnry. Yrott tliM it pMaed 31 Qflwy.VI.
with PiilipiM, daoyhter Mid Mr ai Sir RidMrd Dalyngrlge to
Sir TboBis liewkeoor. Hi» haMj also wts of high eoMkkni-
tiMi in Swtex, to which it gate 8e?eni knighii of the shire,
and Dine high aherMs. It waa next the ptoperty of the Earia of
Thanat^ aod at length eame, hy parehaae, into the peaaesaion of
Sir Tkonaa Wehaler, wHh whoae other ealalea it haa deaeesdad
*to Sir Godfrey^ the preaeat owner.
Thia oaalle> enceaipaBaed with a large and deep moat, now
stagnant, is nearly square, ha? ing a round tower at eaeh an-
gle, gatea on the north and south fronts, and a square tower
fai the oeotre of the eaat and west aides. The grand entranoe
in the niddlo of the math front waa approached hy a kind of
eansey, defended hy an advaneed gate, some remains of which
are aHII left. The great gate is extremely giand ; it ia flanked
by two aqnars macbiocdat^ towers; over it are three eaortcheona
of arroa and the iron portcullis yet entire. The inner gate of
the south gateway is demolished, and a cottage built on its site.
The east and west walla from centre to centre of the comer
towers measure 165 feet; those facing the north and south ItSO.
The lodgings and offices were pandlel to the main waUa, leaying
in the centre an open area of 87 feet by 72^. Hie chapel, the
hall, and the kitchen, of large dimensions, may yet be diatin*
guished. The luxuriant ivy with which the mouldering towera
and rugged walla of thia venerable atmctttre are beaatiftdly
mantfed, produces a highly picturesque and pleasing eflect.
** On the north side of this casUe,'' says the Reverend Mr.
Russell in a letter to Sir William Bnrrell, '^ is a very remark-
able echo, wliich ia the most musical I ever heard : the ex-
cellence consists in placing the hearera and aingtsrs at diflerent
distances from the edifice."
From an entry respecting this place in a book containing an
abstract of the grants of 1 Richard III. it appears that a park
waa at that time attached to Bodibam Castle.
At BftiOHTLiNo, nearly, opposite to the church, staada JZose-
9 km.
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9M
iUff, lii«*ire^iioB of JdhD -PttHw, Biq. uto for muj yeut
veptvMfttod tkkr Mtdty ih Mrliumt iHt the gesend deetkm
» ISM Th4 4iM«iMuiMiwa*|Mn*aMAdbat 1W7, fcyMr.
TlwiiiM Fotkr, who rabuttl ^i# Uraie, tad left it to Us na*
plw4r.' ThW ge&tlBflHui insrrM 'BistBeA, dtaflrter of Mr.
Bom, of JoMico, ^tiHi irltoni h« Mq«ir«d coniMeraHe |vo-
yerlyiii llMt klMid, ud in isottplimevt' to her gaire tkk place
ike name wkMk ft now bean. Jolm, We eldat mi and wm*
tetaor, eveeled the great roooi, bailt addMonil ofioee, and ear-
twtnded thle mamion whh a parte. At hie detlb te 17S0, tito
e«Me dMcenddd'to bio aezt brother, Roie Falter, Eeq. hem
nHioai it pMoed to bb nephew the present proprietor. TUa
genlleanai has reeentiy etectcil an obeervatory neor his honee,
and nndnf bis atu^iees an hietorieai neeonnt of the three
esilem rapes of Snsses is preparing ^ pnUieation^ tUefly^hnn
Ae large niamuoript eeHnctiona <^ the Ser. Mr. Hayley, now in *
IHs possesion.
Ctmtkurst, in the parish of the same name, abont diree nBes
s«ath«esst of Battle, is the seat and paric of Henrj Ciesset Pd-
iam, Esq. the descendant of a yoonger branch of that ancient
Ihmily. The mansion which oommaads an estensive view of
the British channel is miMh ont of repair, having been of late
7ean negleeted by the proprietor, who ebiefiy resides on his
-estate in Bhropshm.
- On the soilth side of Crowhnrst ehnrch are considerable re-
mains of the walls of a very sabstantial building. Grose says
ihBlt it was probably an matory or ohfl^el, bnilt by one of the an-
'eient Idrds of this manor, bat Sir William fiarrell*sapposes it to
have been the eld mansion or conrt-lodge, which name is now
assvmed by the adjicent farm-honse, where the coorts of the ma-
nor are beiil.
In the parish of Gobstlikg, abont half way between HasU
ings and Winchelsea, is BromAom, a handsome stone honse
and park> the property of Sir William Ashbarnham, Bart, de*
rired from the mairisge of bis ancestor, a cadet of the an-
cient
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9M
of AfhbmlMift, wMh tiw dw«lilir «d Imuw of
Sir Joim Stoadinf, of Bratthm, ateti tli« Hm of Eiiraid IV.
The digwiy of boiooot ^pm, fai 1661, coofiamd on fUo fi*
■ily« ivbich dvbg Iho ImI coBtwygafo • biikop to tto
M of CJudMrtv, m tho poma of Iho hto Sir WiUiuo Aob-
kmhaa, wIm> protMod oter tbb <lioeeot Am 17Mto 1997.
He€il^Mi Path, is tho p«ub oftiio otM UMie, ^m teMily
oolM&ylqrPor*, MidboioogodtotlMlliraMDaon. Bvoiyo^
ollodiiig to thk phee, loyo, " tiio Lotd Dooro soaewlMre in Sos*
■ex hos a park aloMot: onriroaod with holly» ablo to fcoep ia aay
g«flM« an I am orodJiMy ialbnaeif Thonaa Laid Daoo, who, ia
1674, waacreatod Bad of.Saaaax, aoU tUa aatata ta tho fcUow-
lag yoartoHcreaka Pawletl, Es|. Tho aeat piopriator, JaaMa
PtoBiBier, Ba^' b^aa tho preaeat anaaioa ; hat hariag gnatly
iaipaired hia fortaaota thoaadartakiag, ho Ibaad it aoeaaaary to
diapoao of the property, whieh waa parchaacd hy Joha Fallor,
Eaq. of WaldroB. Hia aocoo«aor, RayaMad BbofcaMio, Ba^.
fiaiahod tho hoaae, which, ia 1766, waa aoU hy tho aidflr aad
keir of Arthar O'Kaofb, Baq. to Uoateaaat-Goaaral BlUo^ aC*
torwarda Lord Heathfield, froai whoai it reoaivod ita preaeal appal
latioa. Fkon hia loidahip it waa paichaaod ia 17M by Fnacia
Newbeiry, Eaq. the preaeat proprietar.
HuROTMONCKvx waa origiaally called Hurti, tnm ita ailaa«
tion in the midst of tho Weald, or foreat Sooa after tho Nor-
aian Coaqoeat it waa the aeat of a iiuaily, who took froai tUa
jdaee the oame of De Horst, whieh they reti^aed fur aereral go-
nenitioBa» till one of them aaaumed the additioa of Monoeax,
probohly aAw'bia mother, who waa hoireaa of a faaaly aettled at
Compton*Moneeux in Hampakire. On the ftalare of awlo iaaao
IB hia gfaadaon, Maud, dangbler aad heir of the latter, carried
thia estate in marriage to Sir John de Fieanea, aboat the nuddle
of the reign of Edward II. Their poaterity made thia phea their
principal reaidonoe. Sir Roger de Piennea, who attended Hoary
Y. in his expeditiona to Fraaoe with a retinue of between thirty
aad fiirty .men at anna aad arohera> and who waa lieaaarer ^ the
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fcowAiU of him mmmw, tAmli the ijaawP-fcwwe at Hi
tmoL, and obtained a liMMt to mktMM and lorli^ i^ and
la enlaife Ul park irith 100 aaret. Hit aao, hanof nMurriad
Jmn, daaglilar and aak bair of Lotd Dacie, wai» 37 Haary TL
iavwlad nitk that liUe. la tUa Aaiay Hantnonaaax aoatiaaad
tUIthadaatii of tiM Jaat iMif qiala, 37 Eliiabelh, when Ua lia-
tut, lhrgai«t» tiM wifc of Saiapaoa Lsanaid, Ea^ aaecaadajt ta'
kia baaoar^ and, amaiv otkar aatataa^ to tbia caalla aad maaar.
Tbair deaoaadaa^ Tbaaiaa Lofd Daflre^ Mariad a aataral daagb^
tor of Cbarlaa IL by tba DnakoM of Clovdaiid, and vaa, ia
tba 98th yaar of thai maaaiab'H ra^^a, ereatad Eari of SnaiaiL
HaTiag baaobad ialo tba eipanaive gaiatiaa af tho ooort^ aad
iadalgad too Aaaly ia daap play, hia a&ka baeaaie aa aaibaiw
wmcd» that aborlly boforo hia daalh ha waa obliged to diapoaa of
all hia aatataa ia Saaiox, and, anoag the i«at» HoiatoMiBeaax^
whicb waa parebaaad, ia 1701, ibr 38,215L by George Naylor«
Esq. After aa aecopatba of about a oentuiy by bit bmily, tba
eatala waa aoM by tho lata propiiator, Firaaeia Haio Naybr^
Esq. 6r 60,0001. to Thonaa Bead Keaip, Eaq* M.P. te
Lewee.«
Hursinumenuf Cmile ataada in a low aitaatioa near the aomtii-
cm edge of the paik, and ia one of the oldeat brick bnildiaga ia
the kiagdooi. The eograTiaga aad description of Oroae, who
beheld tbia stmetare while entire, are calculated to excite a high
idea of ita aMgnificence; aad ihenamber of fine drawings of every
part in the collection of the late Sir Willian Borrell, areaafi*
deat, aa Pennant remarks, to draw tears from every pamon of
taste who considers the sad change in this noble pile. In farm
it ia very neariy sqaare, the north and sooth fronts being 206
leet, and the eaat and west 314 feet long. The whole was anr*
ronnded by a deep BMMt, which baa long been dry.- The castla
coaaiatod of three conrta, a laiger aad two smaller. The great
gata*hoaac^ b the sonth front, between two towers 84 feet high,
leada
• ICr. K«ap lilt«wiM haUt tba aice of Uwm Gutl^ the rcAaim af wUsh
Jke is fittiBf up for an occaikmsl •onuasr retideoct.
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i«r«he
ttmm
Aft the
m 1 1 ii
o>i*>iiiiiBii<fiwy^»»i
IITTJ,
way
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ill the ereotioA of aome additioaal r^MQM in tli« nuMioa^hoi^e^ a
Aeat white edifice on the west tide ef the-parku
From a f unrey ^f ^hi» estate takea 12 EUzabetb, it apiMmpe
that the moat which encompasseii the castle on the sontk^ irosl»
and north aides, as well as the pool oq the east, wkich washid
the wall on the east side, had heen drained for health's aako not
long before.' The same reoord iofonns ils« that the park w]s« then
three miles in-circumlereac^. " th^ ^hird part Ijiog ia Iawiia^;a«d
the residoe being well set with greitt timber-traes, sBM^tof basoh,
and partly of oak." Tbe.&llow deer were eatimaied at 900;
there were four fish-pouds abaadaaUy stofkadwith carp, tenth,
and other fish, besides- ibar Ktews; aad a heraery called Hem-
wood. This park is agreeably divemified; it is stiU fin4]r
wooded with old trees, particolarly beech, wbieb -are astaesMd
some of the largest in the kiagdoniy and well watered with dear
streams. Most parts of it command a pleasing view over the
adjacent rich level of Pevensey^ the sea appears, to- the sontk;
the hills towards Hastings on tha east ; whilo the. m^estio Santh
Downs rise at some distance to the west
The church, situated near the park, contains somo earioas mo-
numents of the family of Fiennea.
NoaTHYHaM, or Nobi>ibab|, gafe birth to .Afokbishop
FaEWBN, whose father was rector of that partsk, in the chnrck
of which many of his fiimily are interred. He was edueated at
Magdalen College, Oxford, of which he became fellow and presi-
dent; and in 1623, aecompanied Charies I. in his matrimonial
expedition to Spain, in quality of chaplain. In 1643 he was ap-
pointed by that king to the see of litchfield and Coventry, and
promoted, at the Restoration in 1660 to the primaey of York.
Fuller, in treating of this county says : " Many shires have done
worthily, bat Sussex surmomiteth them all, having bred five arch*
bishops of Caalerbury, aad at* this instant (1661) claiming for
her natives the two metropolitans of our nation, J axon and
Frewen.'' The bttter died in 1664, aged 75.
At RoBBRTSBRiPflE, or RoTBSEBRiDOE, Called also accord-
ing
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t^ltmitti
*i*
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A
LIST
OP THB PRIHCIP&I
BOOKS, MAPS, AND VIEWS^
THAT.HAVS BSBN POBUSHSD IH
COUNTY OF SUSSEX,
Considering the ample materials QlmtratiTe of the history, to-
pogmby, and antiquitiea or this countyt collected hy dillbrent indhri-
duatti it cannot but appear sarpcising that no general accoont of
Su«ex should hate b^n yet given to the public. The earliest of
these collections^ which, though larse, was but of local interest, was
made bv Mr. Rowe, steward to Xord Bemvenny from 1597 to
1639 *. it relates chiefly to the town and such parts of the barony of
Lewes as were vested in his noble patron, and contains copious ex-
triets from the 'baronial MSS. concerning the possessors of manon,
their tenures, and privileges. His original manuscript, in folio^ men-
tioned by Mr. Gough as having been in the possession of George
Mcdiev» Esq, is now the property of the Hon. Mr. Jenkinson« of
Buxtecl- Place; but has for many years been deposited in the offiee of
John Uoper, Esq. of Lewes, attomev-at-Iaw. Mr. Wakeham, a gen-
tleman of the same profeuion atEast«Grinstead,hadacdpyomaK
mentrd with the arms of the owners of manors; &c. which still be-
longs to his widow, who resides at the same place ; and another copy
Is preserved in the British Museum.
A Mr, Brown, formerly of New Shoreham, Issued profkosab for
publishing a historv of Sussex, in two octavo vohimes, which never
appeareti.' His widow still resides at Shoreham ; but what promss
he made, or whether his materials are yet in her possession, I have
not learnt.
The Hev. Mr. Ha^iey, some years since rector of Bri^htling, made
lar^e collections relative to the history and anticjuities ol this county,
which are at nrcMMit in the possession of John l*uUer, Esq. of Rose-
hill.
But [\w most magnificent collection perhaps ever formed for a hia-
tory of thin, or any other count v, is that which occupied a con-
nUlitrubU* poition of the life of the We Sir William Burrcll, Bart, and
which, be(|ueathed bv hiin to the British Museum, now forms a va-
lunble monument of nis industry and public spirit. In order to atiford
humt* i(U'u of the magnitude of liis umiertaking, it may be suflicient to
state that, including nine laive port*foHos, containing views of towns,
buililing^, and antiquities, this collectton extenila to ft>ity4wo vo»
Vou XIV, li L lumesi
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HIT or BOOKi» frc.
lomcSv molt ei which zre tfakk Iblioi. On this copioui fund the fu-
ture hbtorian of Sunex will not £iil to dnw for materalt, which must
greatly facilitate and abridge bis lalKMiff .
StUKx, however, it at length likely to pom/tm a county his*
tory> on a scale adeqtiate to do justice to the numerous inteiest*
ing objects which it coinprehepds. Under the patronage of the
Duke of Norfolk, the Rer. Mr. Dallaway has been for a long time
engaged upon an account of the three rapcf ooostitnting the western
divttion of the county, which will be comfMised in two quarto vo-
lumes, and two othen devoted to the three eastern rapes, are pre-
paring for publication, under the auspices of John Fuller, Esq. of
ftosehin.
I have met with no distinct work relative to the topwraphy of the
county in general.* There is an Ind^ Villaris, or list otplaces, with-
out ^^f intituled, *' A Descriptum qfKeni and iksstt; or a Fiew
of aU the CitieSf Towns^ md Fiikgts m €ocA County. if'riUen/or
Oieufe qfhis countrymen, by Robert Russel <f Sussex. London."
** Genemi Fiew qftke Jariadtwte qff/te CounUfqfSussex, drawn
tip for the Board qfAgriamure and Internal Iwsfrovemer^t^ By Ae
Rev. AHhur Young, 1808." 8vo.accoinpanied wiui a Map, exhibiting
the extent of the different soiU of which the countv is composed.
'* The History qf Chichester, interspersed vnth various Notes smd
Obseroadcm on the early and present state qf the Cityt the most
remarkable Places in its Vicinity, and the Counfy ofSuuex in gene-
roL By Alexamder Hay, M. A. Vicar qf Wisborough Green, mud
Chaplain qfSt. Manfs Chapel, in this City. ChichesUr. 1804." 8vo.
In the preface tp this volume Mr. Hay acknowledged himself the
author of the '- Chichester Guide," published anonymously about
twenty years before, and wh*ch in this work he professed lo have
corrected and enbrged. He also announced his intention of dving to
the public an account of the privileges of the manor of Bosliam, of
whicn, however, death prevented the accomplishment Since hit
decease another work, bearing the title of his first publication, has
appeared.
'' The ClUchester Guide, comprising an Account qf the Ancient
and Present State qfthat City and its Neighbourhood, together xoith
a moreJuU and particular Description of the Cathedral than has yet
been offered to tHe PubUc. 1811. foolsc. 8vo. With a Frontispiece
representing the Cross.
•♦ Antiquities of Arundel; the peculiar Privileges qf Us Castle
and Lordship ; with an Abstract of the lives of the Earls of Arundel
from the Conquest to this Time. By the Master qfthe Grammar*
School at Arundel, 1763." 8vo.
** Ancient and Modern History qf Lewes and Brighthelmstone,
in which are compressed tlie most interesting Events qfthe County at
large, under the Regman, Roman, Saxon, and Norman Settlements.
By ir. Lee. Lewes, 1795." 8vo."
<' The Brighton and Lexves Guide, containing an abridged History
qf those Towns, and a description qfthe Coast from East-Bourne to
IVorthing, Sid edit. Lewes/'
** A S/iort Historif ff Brighthelmstone, with Remarks on its Air,
and an Analysis qfits IValcrs, particularly qf an uncommon mineral
one^
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UST or BOOKS, &C.
ene, hng discoveredt though but latelu usetL By Anthomt ReOuMt
M. D. Fellow qf the Royal College of Physicians In Ireland. 1761/'
8vo.
" The Brighthebnstone Directory, or Guide for thai Place V
l2mo,
'' Attre^s Topography qf Brighton and Picture of the Roads Jrom
thence to the Metropolis. Brighton. 1809." 12mo. illuslrated with
a Plan of Brighton, a View of the Marine Pavilion^ £levation of the
Royal Circus and a Map of the Roads/'
" The Hastings Guide, or a Description qf thai ancient Town and
Port^ and its Environs. By an fnhaktani. Third Edition. 1804.''
8 TO. This volumey which is understood to be from the pen ot Mr.
BaiTYf bookseller, of Hasting, ranks much hif^her than most of our
Jocafguides, and is adorned with several Engravings.
** The Origin and Description qf Bognor, or Hoihampion, and
an Account qf some adjacent tillages, (with a Fiew of the former
Place.) By J. B. Dames, M. D. Land, 1807." Fot)lsc. 8vo.
*' Picture qfff^orthing ; to which is added an Account of Arun-^
del and Shoreham, with other parts qf the surrounding Country.
By John Evans, A. M. 1804. Tookc. 8vo.
" A Tour to H^orthing, or Idle Hours not Idly Spent, containing
a slight sketch qfthe Country, Anecdotes, S^c. 1805.'* Foolsc. 8vo.
There is a *' Description <^ East-Bourne,** in 13mo. which tlie
author has not been able to meet with.
** Mount Cabum, a Poem," written in imitation of Coopet's-Hilf,
by William Hay, £^. of Glynd-bourne, and published in 1730, takes
in a sufvey of the ^atest part of this county.
A shocking detail of the atrocities perpetrated by a desperate gang
of smugglers, who, about the middle of last century, infested the
western part of this county, is given in ** A Ftdl and General His-
tory of the Inhuman and unparalleled Murders qf ff^illiam Galley, a
Custom-house Officer at the Port af Southampton, imd Mr. Daniel
Chater, a ^ioemaker of Fordingbridge, Hampshire.^ By fourteen
notorious Smugglers. H^ith the Trials of the Seven Bloody Criminals
at Chichester, by virtue of a Special Commission, on the l6th, \7th,
and 18th /anuory, 1748-9. Written by a Gentleman at Chichester,
Third Edit. 1779. 12mo."
In *' The Topographer, containing a Variety qf Original Articles
illustrative of the Local History and Antiquities qf England,*'
which extended to 37 monthly numbers, forming 4 vols. 8vo. and
was conducted by the bte Rev. Mr. Shaw, the hutorian of Stalford*
shire, are many notices respecting places in this county, and enerav-
ings of Lewes Castle ; Sompting Church ; the Beach House, Littie
Hampton; the Friary, Chichester \ Southwick Church; Eartham,
the seat of William Hay ley, Esq. ; Cowdray House, two views ; and
*Parham, the seat of Sir Cecil Btsshopp, Bart.
The Topographer was continued m another form, and under the
title of '< Topographical Miscellanies, containing Ancient Histories
9nd Modem Descriptions of Mansions, ChurcKes, Monuments, and
Families, with many Engravings, particularly qf ancient Architect
ture throughout England, FoL L 1792.*'^ 4to. Of this tirst volume,
which seems also to bav« been the last, a considerable portion is oc-
3 L 2 copied
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LIST OP BOOKS, &C.
cupicfl with subjects in Sussex, accompanied with views of ^Filming'
ham Priory; Glt/ndc, the seat of Lord Hampden ; Parsonage Hall
at Terring ; Afichelgrove ; and Slindon, the seat of Lord Newburgh,
from drawings by Shaw.
" Observations on the Coasts of Hampshire, Sussex, and Kent,'
relative chiefly to picturesque Beauty, made in the summer oj the
year 1774. By the late ffilliam Gilpin, M, A. Prebendary of Salis-
bury, and Hear of Boldre, near Lymin^ton, 1804," 8vo. In treat-
ing of this county the excellent author of these observations has more
particularly bestowed his attention on Anuidel Castle, Battle Abbey,
and Winchelsea.
" Journey from London to tlte Isle of flight. By Thomas Pen-
nant, Esq. 1801." 2 vols. 4to. This posthumous work includes ob-
servations made in a tour of tlie coast of Sussex in 1793, accompanied
with views from drawings by J. Nixon, Es(|. of Ifinchelsca Church;
Hastings Castle; Battle Abbey; Pevensey Castle; Aetuluivcn; the
Pavilion, Brighton ; Nexv Shoreham Church ; Interior of Arundel
Castle, and Chichester Cathedral.
" Tunbridge Udells and its NeiglJxmrhood, illustrated by a Series
(f Etchings and Historical Descriptions. By Paul Anuinck, Esq.
The Etchings executed by Lctitia Byrne, 1810," royal 4to. This
liandsome volume contains fine engravings of the following places in
this county : — fnrfijf Castle, two views; Bofherjteld Church; May-
field Place; Bayham Abbey ; Scot ney Castle, two w\i:vf%\ Bucklturst;
Stoneland ; fVithyham ; Jiolebroke ; Kidbrooke ; Brambletye, and
Moattd House at Brambletye. The ample historical and descriptive
particulars are drawn chieilv from Lambard, Phillipot, Hasted, and
the MSS. of Sir William Bufrell.
" A Guide to all tlie IVatering and Sea-lathing Places,*' com-
prclicnds Descriptions of Bognor, M'orthing, Brighton, Eastbourne,
;iiKl Hastings, with brief notices of the mo^t remarkable objects in
the vicinity of each of those places, to which are annexed some very
indiflercnt engraved views and small n)aj)8 of the country conti-
guous to the coast.
In the Philosophical Transactions, Vol. XXIV. p. loSO^,
John Fuller, Esq. gives an account of the strange ellects of the great
storm in 1703, in this county. In XXX. p.\549, is a minute ac-
count of a tesselatcd pavem<'iit, baih, and other antiquities discovered
in March 1717, near Eastbourne; being part of a letter from the
learned John Tabor, M. D. of Le\\e>, to Jolm Thorpe, M. D. In
the same volume, p. 783, is the rest of this letter, concerning the site
of the ancient city of Anderida, and other remains of antiquity in this
county. InXXXn. p. 391, is Roger Gale's account of a Roman
Inscription found at Chichester. In aXXIV. p. 13:2, an account of
an Aurora Borealis at Petworlb, October 8, 172^, by Benjamin Lang-
wiili, D. n. In XXXVn. p. lOS, a letter of Mr. T. Frewen on
the condition of the town of Hastings after it had been visited by the
small-pox, XLf. p. 606, contains ob^e^vations on remarkable red
lights &een in the air in this county, December j, 1737, by Rose
Fuller, M. D. who at p. 871 of the same volume, gives an account
of a fire-ball seen in the air, and an explosion heard December U,
1741; andinXLIX. p. 3 53^ is a communication from Philip Car-
7 icret
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UST OF BO0&S> &C.
-teret Webb, Esq. on the agitation Jn the waters of Sussex on Novem-
ber i» 1755, during the memorable earthquake at Lisbon.
In the " Antiq,uarian awd Topographical Cabisjet/' are
plates and descriptions of the follow hig subjects in this county: —
J^o. 1, Amber letf Castle. No. \\, Pevensey Castle, No. 24, Saxon
Door, Chichester. No. 33, Monastsry f^ Grey Friars^ ffinchelsea.
No. 34, Chichester Cross, No. 35, S, E. f^iew qf Chichester Ca-
thedral; S. /T. Tower of Do. ; Bell Tower; N. IV, EiUrance; Arches
at the East End; Nave; Interior \ Buttress on the North Side,
No. 38, Cowdray House, west front ; Part of the Hall and Chapel,
No. 39, Chantry of St, Richard in Chicliester Cathedral, No. 40,
St, Marifs Hospital, Chichester ; Stalls in the Cliapel of the Hospi-
taL No. 42, .Remains of Bayham Abbey Church; Gatezvay of Bay*
ham Abbey,
Brittonfs " Architectural Antiquities,*^ part 5, contains an engrav-
ing of Chichester Cross,
In Grosp's " ANTrQUiTiEs," Vol. V. are engravings and historical
particular? of Arundel Castle ; Battle Abbey, two views; Be^ehnm
or Bayham. Abbey ; Bodiham Castle, two views of the exterior, and
one of the interior ; the Crypt at Bosham Church ; Boxgrove Priory ;
Bramber Castle ; Bramber Church ; the Block-house at Brigluhel/n*
ston ; Eastbourne Priory ; Halnaker House ; Hastings Castle, two
views and a plan ; Hurstmonceux Cottle, four views ; St, Jameses
Hospital^ Lewes; St, John's Church sub Castro, Lewes; Ipres Tower
at Rye; Knap Castle; Lewes Castle, view and plan; Lextfes Priory,
two views ; Afayfield Place, two views ; Pevensey Castle, two per-
tSpective views, also a bird's eye view; Shelbred Priory ; Stanstead
Place; The Town Hall, C/Uchester; the f^icars' College, Chiches-
ter ; Monastery of the Grey Friars, IVinchelsea ; ff'inclieisea Castle ;
IVinchelsca Church \ Northeast Gate of ff^inclielsea.
In Vol. VI If, of the same work are the following subjects : — Brede
Place ; Great Hall in the Palace of Afayfield ; Michelliam Priory,
two views; a building belonging to the Abbey qf Robertsbridge ;
Ruin near Crowhurst Church; Scotney Castle; and f^erdiey or Ford-
ley Castle, with a ground- plan.
Among the engravings in the European MACAzms are the fol-
lowins; subjects in this countv :— -In Vol. XV. Stanstead Place.
XXII. Chichester Cross. XXlV. East Bourne. Two Views of
Arundel Castle, one in Vol. XXXVI. ; the other in Vol. XLIV.
XLII-I. Baths at Brighton.
In the Gentleman's Magazine are numerous notices illustrative
of the topography of Sussex,, accompanied >*ith many views of
churches, but in general on a very small scale.
MAPS, PLANS, AND VIEWS.
The earliest map of Sussex was published together with that of
Kent by Sax ton in the year 1375. This was succeeded by Norden's,
which was reprinted with additions hy Speed in 1670; Hollar's;
Herman MoWs ; Bowen's and Pine's, accompanied with an Ichno-
. graphy and north view of Chichester, and an icbnography and south
2 L 3 view
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UST OP BOOKS, 9lC,
▼iew of Leif fs. The moft minute that has hitherto appeared, it Bud-
gen*s, in six sheets, published in 1724. The most modem as vreil as
the most correct is Laurie and ff^hittl^s, upon one sheet with
Surrey, delineated from the best servers and authorities, and re-
gulated by astronomical observations by Nathaniel Coltman. It was
published in 1807. Smaller maps have been given by Carey and
Smith among their county maps, and also in the AUas which accom-
panies this work.
The greater part of Sussex is comprehended in Edxoardi's General
Map qfFwirteen Hundred Sauare Miles, published in 1792 (see the
list for Surrey) ; and the doast was delineated by Gardiner and
Jeakyll in 1778 ; and Ashdown Forest by Kelton.
Budgen published a Plan qf ike Course of the Hurricane from
Bexhillto Newenden Level, May 20, 1729.
A Plan qf Goodwood Park, Gardens, and PkmkUionSf was en«
graved by Huisberg,
In Stukeley^s Itinerary, pi. 71, is a Pkm qf Chichester, under the
name of Mantantonis, An accurate Plan of the same city and sub-
urbs, by Gardiner and Jeakyll, was published in 17^, on two sheets
and a half, with views of the Cathedral, the Cross, and a Plan taken
in 1610.
Hollar has enaraved the following views in this county :—
Arundel, ana Castle; Bramber Castle; Ruins qf Bramber Cas-
tle, two views; OldShoreham; Ruins qf Pevensey Castle ; H^i^on
Place.
In 1737 and 1738, the Messrs. Bucks published views of Chiches-
ter, S. W. Arundel, E. Battle Abbey, S. W. Betxham Abbey,
N: Leurs Priory and Castle, S. Boxgrove Priory, N. W. iFtn-
Chelsea Monastery, S. Pevensey Castle, N. and S. Bodiham Cas*
tie, N. E. fVinchelsea Castle, W. Hutstmonceux Castle, S. W.
Of Chichester a north view was also engraved by Ring. An en-
graving of the Cross was made at the expense of the Society of Anti •
quaries in 1743 ; and two views of the same edifice, £. and W. drawn
by Ride, and engraved by Vertue, were published in 1749. Stuke-
ley, in his Itinerary, pi. 49, gives a tepreseotation of a J^oiriiii In-
scription found in that city, which is likewise engraved in the pre-
face to Hearn^s edition of Domesday, with remark by Dr. fiaily, of
Uavant.
There are five views ^ Lewes, engraved by fiasire.
A view of Brighthelmston from a drawing by Lambert was engrav-
ed in 1766.
An inside view of Winchelsea Castle was published by F.
Perry.
An engraving of Iping Lake, by J. Mason, firom a drawing by W.
Beller was published in 1763.
INDEX
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INDEX
, TO
THE COUNTY OF SUSSEX.
Abergavenny* Lord, hu mo.
nument at East Orinatead, 150.
Adelin* relict of King Hanry L her
spirited replj to King Stephen, 78.
Ador, rirer, itt course, 11.
Albioi, William de. Earl of Araodel,
hit remarkable eiploit^ 77.
Alboorne Place, 105.
AldrtDEton, 143.
Amberley Castle, 87.
Angmering Park, 88.
Ardingleigh, 144.
AroD, river. Its course, 10 ; improvo-
ment in its navigation, l3.
Arondel, rape of, 75.
— town of, situation, popula-
tion, &c 75 ; the castle, 75, 83 ;
the church, 88 ; ancient hospital,
theatre, bridge^ 84.
Ashdown Forest, J49.
Ashburnham, f(K); relics preserved
in the church of ihat place, SUl.
■ — HouM, the seat of the
Earl of Ashburnham, SOI.
* B
Battle, origin of its name, 179 ; of its
abbey, 180 j present state of that
edifice, 181-J83; populhtion, &c.
of the town, the church, 183.
Bayham Abbey, a seat of Marquis
Uamden, 168.
Bcachy Head, clifti of, 163; curious
cavern in them, 164.
Beanport, the seat of Sir J. B. Borges*
Bart. S08.
Berstead, South, 62.
Be vis, tradition respecting himi.76.
Bignor, beautiful tesselatMl pavemant
discovered there, 88.
Bodiham Castle, SOl-S.
Bognor, 69.
Bolebroke House, 179.
Borde, Andrew, account of bin, 168.
Boshara, 63.
Herbert de, 64.
Boigrore, 64 ; priory, 65 ; chvrch,
66 ; hospital, 67.
Dradwardine, archbishop, a native of
Chichester, 56.
9
Braaber, rape of, 99.
■■ village of, situation, popu«
lation, representation, 99; mtJe,
93; church, 94.
Brambletye House, 151.
Brazen sloop of war, lost off New*
haven, 146.
Bri^bthehnaton, population, 113 ;
hutory, 114; government, titna*
tion, principal streets, 115 ; statue
of the Prince Regent, tbe Steyne,
the Marine Pavilion, 116; the
cburch, 119; the chapel royal,
meeting-house^ theatre, 190; ro^al
circus, assembly-rooms, libraries,
bathing, 191; chalybeate sprbgy
market-house, work-boose, yicar-
age, schools, battery, barracks,
193 ; race<our8e, 194.
Brightliog, 90y.
Broadwater, descent of the manor,
105 ; the chureh, 106.
Broroham, tlie seat of Sir W. Asb-
buniham, Bart. 903.
Buckhorst, 178.
Burton Park, the seat of John Bid-
dulph, Esq. 90.
Burrell, Sir William, account of hin^
195.
c.
Camber Castle, nearWinchelsea, 199.
Camois, B«lpb de, estraordioary
deed respecting his wife executed
by hio^ 905.
Cannon House, the teat of Lord Sel-
sea,75.
Charles II. his escape to France from
Brighton, 190.
Chichester, rape of, its boundaries,
33.
- , city of, its situation, an-
cient history, 33 ; modern history,
34 ; its corporation, representaiioo,
fairs, and markeU, 55; its port,
trade, and manufactures, 36 ; po«
pulation, 37 ; the cathedral, 97-48 ;
parish churches and epiMopal pa-
lace, 48 ; the Deanry, the Friary,
49; the guildhall, the council.
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INDEX.
diamber, 5 » ; the «steBbiy-ioo«,
tlieatre, cofto»-bo«r, cm^ 51 ;
tht pmmmar achool. lice tdMnl,
ckwiiT ichoob, St, AUry'ft lM»pi-
UU M ; the ■etfclwMe, dupni-
mry, gMl, 3S; Rottm reaaiosw
54; ewMiifnt iiaii«c*» 55-67.
45.
CkplBs,107.
Colii«» WilUaa, his mmnmmU 44;
bioftaphkeiiniMieClMM. J^
iia *
CM^MiPhc% theMteClocdG.
H. Cenaiiili, i6l.
ChI Uenu « Mt af Ike Eeri «r Gal-
Cenkft Hall. &e «Hi«f ikeHe^
Hm. Bmci* 157.
■UKA.
tt^lke Mtf ot H.C P#iheB.
Esq. 9QS.
CwcUeld, sltutka ead popelniee. i
IM ; 4eflBnt eT tke mamar^ tke j
cktfck,f'cegrj«MrKteol.lS5. :
'd. * I
Di^Trrjir. t^-?V ef eM of ikM ie- !
- BLu/at Fjctcftirx lo6. \
Dsae's Gate. la E^ilire Park. iTt.
Hmmt, t^ icac oi U . J. CiiBpiiw,
Etq*. 145.
DkT^T* Pttnoaw tzafituu tr<prrli»g
Deea. West. T5.
De la Vatr. Uvr!. la mmmmtA at
Pte%. tW Mtf oT W. Haifc-
^R^^f OaatMes aC« mtx waBssmft
afi B«i.p*««.6^-
1«S. kaiWir. tM;«a[ie.b«kaft£pli>f
t reAm^« cjaemftxtd Hax. fl i ubm, E«^
»;«catni£ BIOL IT^ ^ta wc*.
Daostn. arHlilAiyi, ssade rrirrJ I BcaaSditf ftifc. tteectf ae F. Sr»-
•f l0, ITS. ] berrr, Eeq 014.
£. I Hipidea. u>£ an cf S« Bktt G»-
Eecl^Mme. ICI ; cVrti, IfiS ; »> j fia^.arr.
tcflCin *a«S'*«rei ifacvc. 1*3. i X«r<«. t. ?".
E-K'^? C*c>r. ti« ^ei^ eC die £a:^ af H».in«aK7 Gude^ x 1f4^
Ewkont* liO.
F.
Findoa Place, tlw aot of Mn. Ridi*
ardaoB. 109.
FitialaB* RicMra* Eari oi Amdet^
hia eaeestMO* 78> 79.
Fldchioir. 165 ; the chuck, 166.
Frank laad, WUiiam, Eaq. bh euliec-
cal appamm, 109.
Frani, 166.
Ffc«ei^ Bicldhiiknp, accooft «f bis,
for.
G.
GxhboQ, Ed««4, Eiq. kbsepakknl
JamipiiBii at PleiAif:, 167.
Gl jade, fcat of JLofd Haiapdca at
tkat place. 17«; the cherch. t7.x
Glvade-Boan. Ike aeat «f the Hay
fam^T, 17&
Goad««ad, the leat eC the Dake aC
RichaMad,6«.
OriQ^gad, Eaai, papaiatMap i€'pn*
anutioa, 149; thecharth, Sact-
▼iiJeColScfe.t50; hw-achtwl. 151.
Grasiead tafc, Wert, the seat vf
Waher Barren, fiif IIL
Gaadied. daaghlcr af Wahaa the
eMJiL
Ha^^kaa,
ch«ch.l5S.
Halaatcr hiaw. 64, 65l
aad h» ciear, 146.
Hare baai PnafT, 991
Hmcsam, Jdkm, hm Irfacf to *lc
paarafCtailpMri.ML
Hjn-a^67.
DaMJa^K rapeai; f79.
HajCeca lavaaf. eaartiaa, wapsr-a*
tKw/ aic^* rr. IM: Aa'aaet*.
1€5; ■ ' -
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NDEX.
presentation^ msrlE^tsi 95 ; charcb«
1':. rket.house, town-ball, count^-
gB.>], ' 96 ; free-schoob, - meeting*
hoQses for Dissenters, barracks, 97.
Horsham Park, the seot of R; Uorst,
Esq. 97.
Hotba'm, Sir Richard, account of him,
69, noU. '
Hurstmonceax, 204; castle, S05. '
Hur^*per-point,* descent of the ma-
nor, the church, 144.
I.
Ipfcs Castle, at Rje, 199.
Islip,- Atchbp. 'circumstances which
occasioned his death, 173, note'.
J.
Juxon^ Arcfabp. account of him, 55-
K.
Kidbrooke, the seat of (be Right
Hon. Cb Aries Abbot, 153.
Xmip Castle, 111; ancient ring dis-
covered near it^ 11^.
L.
Ladjholt-house, 68.
Laucing, 109.
Laiuberhurst," parish of, 174.
Langiej- Pointy forts erected there,
163.
Liuii^ton, Bp. account of him, 39, 40.
Lavunt, river, its course, 10.
, East, 68.
Leclie. Richard, Esq. his monument
sit t'letchiiig, 156.
],rut'9, rape of, 113.
town of, situation, popula-
tion, representation, municipal go-
vernment, l<6j history, 1«7 j the
ensile, 128; priory, 129 j other
nnnnaslic fonndations, fortifications,
1 35 ; parisb-chnrrhes ; St. John*s
>ub Castro, 186 ; St. John's South-
over, 139; All Saints', St. Mi-
chael's, St. Ann's, St Thomas' in the
ClilFe ; meetine-honses for Dissen-
ters ; shire-ball, 140 ; house of
ci»rrection ; free grammar-school ;
i!>eatre, assembly- rooms ; library-
MU-icty ; Sussex Agricultural So-
ciety ; market, 141 ; race-course ;
battle fought there between Henry
ilT. and the barons, 14'^; bar-
racks, 145.
]>cwkenor. Lady Katherine, her mo-
nument at EiistGrimtead, 150.
Littlehampton, 91.
LusbingtoD, Henry, particular! re-
spect ing him, 16!^,
LnslMUgtott^ Df. his tomb at East-
bourne, 162.
Lynchmere, 70.
M.
Mangnus, a Danish chieftain, cnrions
monumental inscription for him at
Lewes, 157.
Mayfield, ancient palace of the arch-
bishop of Canterbury at that place,
175; descent of the manor and
' mansion, 176.
Michelgrove, the seat of Sir J. Shel-
ley; Bart, 107. •
Michel ham priory, 154 ; presient re*
• mains, 155.'
MidhuTst, the-Milba, orMidaofthe
Romans, 57 ; its representation ;
the' church, 58; lown-hall ahd
free grammar-school. 59.
Montacute, Viscount, his monvnieTit
atMidhurst, 58.
Morley, Sir Wm. his monument, 67.
Muntham Park, 109,
Murray, General, particulars respect-
ing him, 208, note.
N.
Newhaven, its port, 145; monu-
ments for the crew' of the Brazen
sloop ; the church, 146.
Newtimber-place, the scat of J. L.
Newnham, Esq. 146.
North, Dudley Lot d, particulars re-
specting him, 171 note,
Northyharo, 207.
o.
Offington, the seat of W. Margesson,
Esq. 107.
Otway, Thomas, account of biro, 75,
Ouse, river, its course, 11.
Owen, Sir David, his monument, 67.
P.
Parham, the seat of Sir Cecil Bis-
shopp. Hart. 91.
Payne, Robert and Henry, found
the free- school at East-Grinslead,
151.
Petworth, situation, population,
church, 94 ; market-house, cha<-
rit^-scboui, alius bouse, hospital,
bridewell, de!»ceiit of the manor, 85.
House, t he seat of the Earl
of Egreraont, 86.
Pcvensey, rape of, 148.
— , village of, its ancient im-
portance and history, 157 ; the
castle, 158 ; celebrated native, 160.
Fo^fuings, descent of the uiaiicir,
1^16;
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INDEX.
146; the chofch, 147; aadcDt
maiuioo^boiue, 118,
R.
Racton, 7t.
Aichardf, Sir Jamet, coojectuM fe-
specuag bin, 159.
Rotbcr river, its councj 11.
Robembridg*, priory* toe.
Boaehill, tbe residence of John Fel-
ler, £iq. <03.
Kye, population, repreaentmtioib hb-
torj^ 390} Iptes Cattle, ancient
reJi$ioa» hooiei, tbe charcb, tbe
free ffraomwr-school, i9f; tbe
free-ichool, mariiet-plece, Iowa-
ball, harbour, trade, 195.
S.
St. Richard, Bishop of Chichester,
hit tomb# 43.
Saivingtoo, lOf.
Sasonbarjr-hill, I7t»
Scotnej Cattle, tbe teat of £. Hot*
tej, £tq. 174.
Seafordt ht ancient eontequence;
repreaentatlon, 155; tbe eburcb,
barhv fort, 156.
Seal Priory, 110.
Seldon, Jobn, a native of Salvington,
lOje.
Selsea* isle of, 73*
SbcffieM- place, fhe seat of Lord Shef-
field, 16d.
Shelbred Priory, 70.
Shermanbory, 110.
Shipley, 111.
Shirley, account of three brothers of
that name, lit.
Sborebam, New, situation, popula-
tion, representation, 98 ; church,
'99; market-house, priory, bar*
hour, trade, 100.
— — , Old, its church, 97:
bridge, 98. '^
Shorborne, Bishop, embellislies Chi-
chester cathedral, 41 ; bis motid-
mcnt, 4t
Slindon, 73.
-— *- Honte, tTie seat of the Earl
of Newburgh, 7X. •
Sonth-Down she^p, breed of, de-
scribed, W*
Smith, Mrs. Charlotte, a natire of
Bignor, 89 ; monoroent for her at
Stoke near Guildford, 90, note.
— — William, George, and John,
landscape-painters account of
Ihcm, d6.
Springfield, the teal of W. Uorri^
Esq,SF7.
Stanttead-house, the seat of Lewk
Way, Esq. 7«.
Stanoier, tbe residence of the End of
Chichester, 1*77,
Steyning, population, representation*
100 1 tbe church, free (^mnsr-
scbool, 101 ', barracks* priory, lOf .
Sloneland-faouse, tbe seat of Lord
Wbitworth, 178.
Snssez, its situation, extent* end di-
vision, 5 4 population, 6 ^ climate,
soil, and surUce, 7 } minerals, 9,
rivers, 10; woods, 11 j wastes,
roads and canals, 13; state of
property, 14; buildiogsi 15 ; state
of tbe pour, 16 ; agriculture, 16 —
S3 ; general history, 93 ; bonorial
history, t6 ; ecclesiastical history^
87 ; ecclesiastical and civil govern-
ment, 99; BAman stations; en- .
oampmentSy ami roads, f9.
T.
Tening, lOf.
Tettersell, Nicholas, his monument
and imgMon, 119.
Trevor, fKiRnp, inKription for him
at Glynde, 173.
Trottoo,7|^. '"""
. V.
Up Park, 67.
V.
Verdley Castle, 71.
W.
Waddinglon, Bishop, his monument,
40.
Warren, the Earl of, founds the pri-
ory at Lewes, ISO ; inscription on
his monument, 131.
Westfield, «08.
White hawk-Hill, lf4,
Wiochelsea, population, 193 ; char-
ters, historical particulars, 194-6 ;
situation, church, 197;. religions
houses, ' 198 ; tbe court-bouse,
goal, the gates, the castle, 199*
Wincheisea, Robert de. Archbishop
of Canterbury, his extensive chft-.
rity, «00.
Wistou-park, the seat of Charles
Goring, Esq. lit.
Wiihyharo/ 118.
Worthing, iu situation^ principal
streeu, chapel, 103; theatre, mar-
ket, Warwick- house. Worthing-
house, 104b
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