fc: V
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND
FROM
THE TWELFTH TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
Edinburgh : Printed hy George Waterston &" Sons
FOR
DAVID DOUGLAS
LONDON HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.
CAMBRIDGE MACMILLAN AND BOWES
GLASGOW JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS
THE
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE
OF SCOTLAND
FROM THE TWELFTH TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
BY
DAVID MACGIBBON and THOMAS ROSS
ARCHITECTS
VOLUME THREE
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
MDCCCLXXXIX
All ri<jht>i reserved
Art
•Library
V.3
PREFACE.
The reception wliich the first two volumes of the Castellated
and Domesiic Architecture of Scotland met with from the
public, and the kind aid which the authors have received
from all parts of the country in reply to the appeal contained
in the Postscript to the second volume, have encouraged
them to proceed with the work they had set before them-
selves of making a record of the architectural features and
history of all the castellated and domestic structures of any
importance erected in the country up to the time when the
Scottish style of architecture ceased to exist. They believe
that — thanks to the above assistance — they are now in a
position to do so, and they entertain the hope that, as the
two additional volumes now to be published will complete
the subject, they Avill be not less welcome to all interested
in Scottish architecture than the preceding ones.
The subject is treated in a manner similar to that of the
two first volumes. The third volume contains an account of
the structures previously undescribed in the First, Second, and
Third Periods, and the portion of the Fourth Period which
comprises the Simple Keeps and the Castles of the L Plan.
The fourth and last volume will contain the remaining
edifices of the Fourth Period, comprising those of the Z Plan,
the E Plan, the T Plan, the Courtyard Plan, and modified
and exceptional Plans. It will also give illustrations of a
large number of houses and mansions from the different
1299S<)1
PREFACE
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
towns, numerous altered and fragmentary remains of
domestic structures, and a series of Tolbooths or Town
Halls, Churches, and Monuments, illustrative of the Scottish
style of the Fourth Period.
Valuable assistance in many ways, including Plans,
Sketches, Photographs, &c., has been received from a great
many quarters, and is gratefully acknowledged in the body of
the work in connection Avith the detailed description of the
various Castles ; but special thanks are due to the following
gentlemen for the interest they have taken in the subject
and the important aid they have rendered, viz. : —
H. T. Donaldson, Esq., Banker,
Nairn.
John Fleming, Esq., Scotland Street,
Woodlands, Glasgow.
William Fowler, Esq., Architect,
Edinburgh.
William Galloway, Esq., Architect.
H. Wolridge Gordon, Esq. of Essle-
niont, Aberdeenshire.
Lord Hamilton of Dalzell.
Colonel Allardyce, Aberdeen.
A. Whiteford Anderson, Esq.,
Warwick Gardens, London.
William Anderson, Esq., Architect,
Edinburgh.
David Andrews, Esq., Girvan.
R. Bruce Armstrong, Esq.
A. B. Armitage, Esq., C.A., Edin-
burgh.
John Baird, Esq., Architect, Glas-
gow.
John Brycb, Esq., Architect, Edin-
burgh.
Thomas M. Brown, Esq., Closeburn,
Dumfriesshire.
John William Burns, Esq. of Kil-
mahew, Dumbartonshire.
Alexander Carmiciiael, Esq., Rae-
burn Place, Edinburgh.
T. Craig Christie, Esq. of Bedlay,
Lanarkshire.
Dr. D. Ciiristison, Edinburgh.
J. T. Clark, Esq., Advocates'
Library, Edinburgh.
William Cramond, Esq., School-
master, Cullen.
Thomas Dickson, Esq., LL.D.,
Register House, Edinburgh.
Robert Dundas, Esq. of Arniston.
James Hardy, Esq., Berwickshire
Naturalists' Field Club.
J. F. HisLOP, Esq., Castlepark,
Prestonpans.
J. AuLDJO Jamieson, Esq., W.S.,
Edinburgh.
W.C.JoASS, Esq., Architect, Dingwall.
Major Archibald Leslie of Kinin-
vie, Banffshire.
Colonel Elliot Lockhart, Branx-
holm, Roxburghshire.
Walter F. Lyon, Esq., Architect,
London.
Sir Herbert E. Maxwell, Bart.,
M.P., of Monreith, Wigtonshire.
Sir Robert Menzies, Bart, of
Castle Menzies, Perthshire.
Rev. Alexander Miller, Buckie,
Banffshire.
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND — VU — PREFACE
G. Gordon Milne, Esq,, Architect, T. S. Robicktson, Esq., Architect,
London. Dundee.
Robert Murray, Esq., Architect, W. W. Robertson, E.sq., Ai-chitect,
Edinburgh. Edinburgh.
Colonel M 'Leo D of Saddell, Argyll- The Council of tlie Royal Scottish
shire. Academy.
Henry Hay Norie, Esq., W.S., Charles G. Shaw, Esq., Ayr.
of Coltbridge Hall, Edinburgh. J. W. Small, Esq., Stirling.
T. T. Olipiiant, Esq., St Andrews. J. Guthrie Smith, Esq. of Mugdock
J. Balfour Paul, Esq., Advocate, Castle, Stirlingshire.
Edinburgh. David Thomson, Esq., Architect,
William Railton, Esq., Architect, Glasgow.
Kilmarnock. Colonel Hunter Weston of Hun-
J. D. Roberton, Esq., Park Terrace terston, Ayrshire.
East, Glasgow. John J. Wilson, Esq., Penicuik.
The authors desire particularly to acknowledge their
obligations to Messrs John Baird, Architect, Glasgow —
John Bryce, Architect, Edinburgh — John William Burns
of Kilmahew — J. T, Clark, Keeper of the Advocates'
Library — AValter F. Lyon, Architect, London — G. Gordon
Milne, Architect, London — the Rev. Alexander Miller,
Buckie — Robert Murray, Architect, Edinburgh — William
Railton, Architect, Kilmarnock — J. D. Roberton, Park
Terrace East, Glasgow — and J. Guthrie Smith of Mugdock
Castle, Stirlingshire.
Liformation regarding some edifices of the Simple Keep
Plan and the L Plan has been obtained too late to permit of
their being described in their proper places, but these and any
others omitted will be given in a Supplementary Chapter in
the fourth volume.
Any information regarding structures not yet described,
or otherwise, will be most welcome, and will be thankfully
acknowledged.
Edinburgh, Novemher 1889.
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
PAGE
General view of subject — Historical associations — Brocks —
Primitive fortresses — Norman keeps — Thirteenth -century
castles — Earliest stone and mortar castles in Scotland intro-
duced by Normans — Norman churches — Position of country
in thirteenth century — The Highlands and Islands, state of
— Castles of, similar to those of mainland — Prosperous
condition of Scotland before 1286 — Large castles of period —
Exhaustion caused by War of Independence — Small keeps of
fourteenth century — Contrast of castles and churches of France
and England with those of Scotland — Improvement in fifteenth
century — Courtyard castles introduced —Perfected in royal
palaces — Revival of trade — Haliburton's ledger— Collegiate
churches — Scottish style of — Castellated features introduced
into — Development of chivalry — Decline of chivalry — Effects
of the Reformation — Diflference between French and Scottish
chateaux — Town houses — Enlarged plans of keeps, L plan,
Z plan, E plan, T plan — jModifications to meet requirements
— English influence — Churches and monuments in Scottish
style — The waggon vault and other domestic details employed, 1-40
FIRST PERIOD— 1200-1300.
Castles with a great wall of enceinte — Many preserved in Highlands
and Islands — Comparatively few on mainland, ... 41
Descriptions of the following examples : —
Mingarry Castle, . . . Argyllshire, .... 42
Duart Castle, . . . Do., . . . . 46
Kismull Castle, . . Inverness-shire, . . . 51
Ellan-Tirrim Castle, . . Do., .... 56
CONTKNTS
X CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
Castle Swin, .
Argyllshire, .
58
Skipness Castle, .
Do.,
63
Achanduin Castle,
Do.,
75
Dunvegan Castle,
Inverness-shire,
77
Ellandonan Castle,
Ross-shire, .
82
Duntroon Castle, .
Argyllshire, .
85
Dunskaich Castle,
Inverness-shire,
87
Ardchonnel Castle,
Argyllshire, .
87
Urquhart Castle, .
Inverness-shire,
90
Loch Doon Castle,
Ayrshire,
96
Achincass (or Auchen) Cas
tie, Dumfriesshire,
105
Home Castle,
Berwickshire,
106
Moulin Castle,
Perthshire, .
109
Bruce's Castle,
. Ayrshire,
110
Kincai'dine Castle,
Kincardineshire,
111
King Edward Castle, .
. Aberdeenshire,
112
SECOND PERIOD— 1300-UOO.
Consists of small keeps-
of description,
-A few of L plan introduced later — Order
114
Descriptions of the following examples : —
Simple Keeps : —
Borve Castle,
Inverness-shire,
Breacacha Castle, Coll, .
Argyllshire, .
Castle Coeffin,
Do.,
Ardtornish Castle,
Do.,
Aros Castle, .
Do., .
Kildonan Castle, Arran,.
Buteshire,
Moy Castle, Loch buy, .
Argyllshire, .
Closeburn Castle, .
Dumfriesshire,
Cassillis Castle,
Ayrshire,
Balthayock Castle,
Perthshire, .
Drumin Castle,
Banffshire,
->C Old Man of Wick,
Caithness-shire,
X, Braal Castle,
Do.,
L Plans : —
Cessford Castle,
Roxburghshire,
Dalhousie Castle, .
Midlothian, .
Ravenscraig Castle,
Aberdeenshire,
Portincross Castle,
Ayrshire,
115
117
120
122
125
125
127
128
131
132
134
134
137
138
144
149
151
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND
XI —
CONTENTS
Fragmentary Remains : —
PAGE
Duch.al Castle,
Renfrewshire,
. 156
Ballumbie Castle, .
Forfarshire, .
. 158
Tinnies Castle,
. Peeblesshire,
. 159
THIRD PERIOD— 1400-1542.
Coincides with reigns of Jameses — Courtyard plans introduced —
Keeps still continued — Description commences with West
Highlands and other districts taken up in succession,
161
Descriptions of the following examples : —
Simple Keeps : —
Castle Stalcaire, .
Argyllshire, . . . . 162
Kinlochaline Castle,
Do.,
168
Castle Mearnaig, .
Do.,
170
Castle Maoil, Skye,
Inverness-shire,
172
Craignish Castle, .
Argyllshire, .
173
Little Cumbrae Castle, .
Buteshire,
173
Fairlie Castle,
Ayrshire,
173
Law Castle, ....
Do.,
173
Skelmorlie Castle,
Do.,
173
Barr Castle, .
Renfrewshire,
183
Carrick Castle,
Argyllshire, ,
186
Kaimes Castle,
Buteshire,
192
Giffen Castle,
Ayrshire,
194
Hunterston Castle,
Do.,
194
Saddell Castle,
Argyllshire, .
197
Sorn Castle, .
Ayrshire,
200
Barr Castle, .
Do.,
. 201
Mauchline Castle, .
Do.,
. 202
Penkill Castle,
Do.,
204
Ailsa Craig Castle,
Do.,
206
Carletoii Castle,
Do.,
209
Lochnaw Castle, .
Wigtonshire,
. 210
Rusco Castle,
Kirkcudbrightshir
e,
213
Hollows Tower,
Dumfriesshire,
217
Bemersyde, .
Berwickshire,
. 220
Billicastle,
Do.,
. 220
Cockburnspath Tower, .
Do.,
. 220
Fast Castle, .
Do.,
222
Lennox Castle,
Midlothian, .
. 224
Blackness Castle, .
Linlithgowshire,
225
CONTENTS
xii — CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
Craiglockhart Castle,
Kirmeil Castle,
Mains Castle,
Cathcart Castle,
Bardowie Castle,
Covington Tower,
Lochore Castle,
Bruce's Castle,
Arnot's Tower,
Balmuto Tower,
Pitcruivie Castle,
Guthrie Castle,
Old Slanes Castle,
Boddam Castle,
^^ Ackergill Tower,
^ Dirlot Castle,
Q Castle Yarrich,
L Plans : —
Lethington Castle,
Mercliiston Castle,
Hatton House,
Bridge Castle,
Lordscairnie Castle,
Stanely Castle,
Inverquharity Castle,
Brodick Castle,
Thomaston Castle,
Denmiln Castle,
Courtyard Plans :—
Glengarnock Castle,
Craigie Castle,
Ardrossan Castle,
Ardstinchar Castle,
Dunglass Castle, .
Mugdock Castle, .
Dalzell Castle,
Bogliall Castle,
Innerwick Castle,
St Andrews Castle,
Balfour Castle,
V* Bucholie Castle,
Findlater Castle, .
PAGE
Midlothian, .... 227
Linlithgowshire, .
228
Lanarkshire,
231
Renfrewshire,
233
Stirlingshire,
236
Lanarkshire,
239
Fifeshire,
241
Stirlingshire,
245
Kinross-shire,
245
Fifeshire,
247
Do.,
247
Forfarshire, .
248
Aberdeenshire,
249
Do.,
250
Caithness-shire,
250
Do.,
253
Sutherlandshire,
253
Haddingtonshire, . . .256
Midlothian, .
263
Do.,
268
Linlithgowshire,
275
Fifeshire,
278
Renfrewshire,
280
Forfarshire, .
. 282
Buteshire,
. 285
Ayrshire,
. 289
Fifeshire,
. 291
Ayrshire, . . . .293
Do.,
. 296
Do.,
. 301
Do.,
. 302
Dumbartonshire,
. 305
Stirlingshire,
. 308
Lanarkshire,
. 312
Do.,
. 320
Haddingtonshire,
. 325
Fifeshire,
. 328
Forfarshire, .
. 337
Caithness-shire,
. 338
Banfishire,
. 340
architecture of scotland —
Special Plans : —
Dunure Castle,
Dalquharran Castle,
Mochrum, The Old Place of,
Littledean Castle,
Nuni"aw,
Newbattle Abbey,
Castle Lachlan,
- xiii — CONTENTS
PAGE
. Ayrshire,
Do.,
341
344
. Wigtonshire,
349
. Roxburghshire,
351
Haddingtonshire, .
353
. Midlothian, .
354
Argyllshire, .
. 357
FOURTH PERIOD— 1542-1700.
Reign of Queen Mary unfavourable for building — Border castles
ruined — Reformation favourable — Secularised church lands
— Connection with England — ^Traditional plans followed, but
modified — Z, T, and E plans introduced — These plans ex-
plained— Changes in ground floor, staircases, &c. — Stone cor-
belling, whence derived — Transition from military to domestic
style — Different from corresponding change in France —
Advent of Renaissance, effects on Scottish style — Angle
turrets — Changed into bow windows — Interiors — Town
houses — National character of style — Order of description, .
Descriptions of the following examples : —
Simple Keeps : —
West mid South - West District —
365
Busbie Castle,
Ayrshire,
372
Clonbeith Castle, .
Do.,
374
Hessilhead Castle, .
Do.,
375
Newmilns Tower, .
Do.,
377
Newark Castle,
Do.,
378
Greenan Castle,
Do.,
382
Crawfurdland Castle,
Do.,
384
Crosraguel Abbey — Gatehouse,
Do.,
385
Kilchenzie Castle,
Do.,
387
Knockdolian Castle,
Do.,
387
Craig Caffie Tower,
Wigtonshire,
388
South District —
Hills Castle,
Kirkcudbrightshire, . . 390
Isle Castle, ....
Dumfriesshire,
. 393
Fourmerkland Tower, .
Do.,
. 394
Lag Tower, ....
Do.,
. 396
Edingham Castle, .
Kirkcudbrig
itshir
P,
. 398
CONTENTS
— XIV — CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
Bonshaw Tower, .
Robgill Tower,
Wardhouse Tower,
Thirlstane Castle, .
Gamelscleuch Castle,
Dryhope Castle,
Blackhouse Castle,
Kirkhope Tower, .
Oakwood Tower, .
Goldielands Tower,
Barnes Tower,
Castlehill,
Posso Castle,
Wrae Castle,
Horsburgh Castle,
Nether Horsburgh Castle,
Hutcheonfield Tower,
Hyrendean Castle,
Minto Tower,
Timpendean Castle,
Corbett Castle,
Cowdenknowes,
Corsbie Castle,
Cranshaws Castle, .
Gamelshiel Castle,
Central District —
Carberry Tower, .
Cramond Tower, .
Lamington Tower,
Stonebyres, .
Castle Cary, .
Crossbasket and Calderwood
Kilmahew Castle, .
Banachra Castle, .
Darleith Castle,
Rossdhu Castle,
Kilundine Castle, .
, Castle Shuna,
East and North Districts —
Monimail Castle, .
Seafield Tower,
Pitteadie Castle, .
. Dumfriesshire,
398
Do.,
398
Do.,
398
. Selkirkshire,
402
Do.,
403
Do.,
403
Do.,
404
Do., . .
405
Do., .
408
Roxburghshire,
413
, Peeblesshire,
414
Do., . .
416
Do., . .
417
Do.,
418
Do.,
418
Do., . .
418
Do.,
419
. Midlothian, .
419
. Roxburghshire,
Do., .
420
421
Do., .
423
Berwickshire,
425
Do., .
426
Do.,
428
. Haddingtonshire,
430
. Midlothian, .... 430
Do.,
. 432
. Lanarkshire,
. 436
Do., .
. 438
Stirlingshire,
. 439
Castles, Lanarkshire,
. 442
Dumbartonshire,
Do.,
. 443
. 445
Do.,
. 447
Do., .
. 447
. Argyllshire, .
Do., .
•
. 447
. 447
. Fifeshire, .... 448
Do., .... 449
Do.,
.
.
. 450
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND — XV —
Garden Tower,
Bandon Tower,
Meggernie Castle, .
Drumlochy Castle,
Garth Castle,
Easter Clune Castle,
Colquhonny Castle,
Invermark Castle,
Fairburn Tower, .
Castle Crais:,
—
XV — CONTENTS
I'AGH
. Fifeshire
44G
. . Do., . . .
446
Perthshire, .
447
^
Do., . . .
458
Do., . . .
458
. Aberdeenshire,
458
Do.,
. 459
Forfarshire, .
459
Ross-shire, .
462
Do.,
465
L Plans : —
West District —
Bedlay House,
Lanarkshire,
467
Monkland House, ,
Do.,
471
Auchenvole House,
D umbartonsh i re.
474
Jerviston House, .
Lanarkshire,
474
Garrion Tower,
Do.,
476
Haggs Castle,
Renfrewshire,
478
Greenock Mansion-House,
Do.,
484
Old Bishopton Castle, .
Do.,
489
Loch Ranza Castle,
Buteshire,
490
Corseliill Castle, .
Ayrshire,
495
Stair House,
Do., .
495
Auchinleck Castle,
Do.,
496
Maybole Castle,
Do.,
498
Baltersan Castle, .
Do.,
502
Pinwherry Castle,
Do.,
504
South - West District —
Galdenoch Castle, .
Wigtonshire, . . . 506
Dunskey Castle, .
Do.,
. 507
Stranraer Castle, .
Do.,
. 511
Carsleutli Castle, .
Kirkcudbrightshire,
. 513
Park House, .
Wigtonshire,
. 515
Sorbie Castle,
Do.,
. 519
Barholm Castle,
Kirkcudbrightshire,
. 520
Earlston Castle,
Do.,
. 521
Barscobe House, .
Do., . .
. 523
South-JSast District —
Gogar House,
. Midlothian, .... 525
Inch House, .
Do., .... 528
Bavelaw Castle,
Do., .... 531
Bonhard,
Linlithgowshire,
. 533
CONTENTS
XVI CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
Herbertshire Castle,
Newbyres Tower, .
Colinton Castle. .
Stirlingshire,
. Midlothian, .
Do.,
PAGE
. 537
. 538
. 540
Greenknowe Castle,
Berwickshire,
. 542
Evelaw Tower,
Do., .
. 546
Hillslap Tower,
Colmslie,
. Roxburghshire,
Do., .
. 547
. 547
Langsliaw,
Do., .
. 547
Buckholm Castle, .
Selkirkshire,
. 551
Frencliland Tower,
Dumfriesshire,
. 552
Drummelzier Castle,
. Peeblesshire,
. 553
Cardrona Tower, .
Do., .
. 654
Haystoun House, .
Do.,
. 555
East mid North,-East District —
Rossend Castle,
Anstrutlier Manse,
. Fifeshire,
Do.,
. 559
. 560
Pitairthie Castle, .
Do.,
. 562
Queen Mary's, St Andrews,
Do.,
563
Fernie Castle,
Do.,
566
Creich Castle,
Do.,
568
Cleish Castle,
Kinross-shire,
569
Pitfirrane Castle, .
Fifeshire,
572
Blairlogie Castle, .
Perthshire, .
577
Duchray Castle,
Stirlingshire,
577
Balmanno Castle, .
Perthshire, .
579
Newton House, Doune,
Do.,
581
Aberuchill Castle,
Do., . .
582
Comrie Castle,
Do.,
583
Finlarig Castle,
Do.,
583
Acliallader Castle,
Balhousie Castle, .
Argyllshire, .
Perthshire, .
585
585
Pitheavlis Castle, .
Do.,
588
Cluny Castle,
Lethendy Tower, .
Bannatyne House,
Do.,
Do.,
Forfarshire, .
589
590
592
Flemington House,
Do.,
592
Finhaven Castle, .
Do.,
594
Forter Castle,
Do.,
596
Ballinshoe Castle, .
Do.,
598
Kelly Castle,
Leith Hall, .
Do., . .
Aberdeenshire,
599
600
Balfluig Castle,
Do., . .
600
Westhall Castle, .
Do.,
.
601
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND
— xvu —
c
ONTENTS
PAGE
Tillycairn Castle, .
. Aberdeenshire, . . . 601
Esslemont Castle, .
Do.,
. 603
Pittullie Castle. .
Do.,
. 605
Fordyce Castle,
. Banffshire,
606
Findochty Castle, .
Do.,
. 608
Boharm Castle,
Do.,
. 609
Elcliies Castle, Easter, .
. Morayshire,
609
Do., Wester, .
Do.,
610
Aslisk Castle,
Do.,
611
Castle Grant,
Do.,
611
North - West and North Distri
ct—
Dundarave Castle,
. Argyllshire, . . . .613
Barcaldine Castle,
Do., .
618
Invergarry Castle,
. Inverness-shire,
620
Redcastle,
. Ross-shire, ,
623
Castle Leod,
Cromarty,
625
^ Brims Castle,
. Caithness-shire,
628
■j^ Downreay Castle, .
Do.,
630
'o Ardvreck Castle, .
Sutherlandshire, .
631
C> Edderchalder or Calda Hou
se. Do.,
633
ERRATA.
Contents, page xv. — Garden Tower, /or 446, read 456.
,, ,, Bandon Tower, for 446, read 456.
,, ,, Meggernie Castle, for 447, read 457.
Page 117. — Delete " Iron gate " on illustration.
,, 263. — Eighth line from bottom, for "on the north," read "in the
north."
„ 281.— i'V/' "Maxwell of Caiderwood," read "the Maxwells of
Calderwood."
,, 351.— i^'or " Goldenock," read " Galdenoch."
„ 356.— i^or "N.K.L.N.," read "M.K.L.N., for Mark Ker, Lord
Newbattle."
THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND
FROM THE TWELFTH TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
INTEODUCTION TO VOLUME III.
In the previous volumes of this work an attempt was made to define
the successive stages through which the Castellated and Domestic Archi-
tecture of Scotland has passed, and to describe the characteristic features of
each period. The various periods were illustrated with numerous examples,
which, it was believed, would be considered sufficient to prove the views
enunciated. But since those volumes were published we have been enabled
— as we then ventured to express a hope that, with the assistance of others
interested in the subject, we might be — to ascertain particulars regarding
the present and original condition of every structure, so far as we know, of
any impoi-tance falling within the range of our subject. The information
thus collected corroborates generally the conclusions formerly arrived at,
and it also comprises some additional materials which bear especially on
the earlier castles of Scotland. Being now in a position to trace accui'ately,
and with as much certainty as the nature of the subject allows, the history
of the architecture of our castles and houses during the period selected, we
propose, before entering into the detailed description of the various struc-
tures not hitherto illustrated, to take a general view of the subject as a
whole, endeavouring to draw attention to its important bearing on the
social and historical, as well as the artistic aspects and relations of the
country.
Our old Scottish castles and mansions are so numerous, and form such
prominent objects in the landscape, that they never fail to strike even the
most careless observer. Their picturesque outlines and mouldering ruins
have always been a favourite subject with our artists, and are the constant
theme of our foreign visitors and all lovers of the picturesque. Their
historical associations with the names most famous in Scottish history add
largely to their interest. They recall the great struggle for independence
under Wallace and Bruce, the daring exploits of the Douglas, the vigour
and chivalry of the Jameses, and their frequent expeditions to the remoter
A
INTRODUCTION — 2 — HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS
parts of tlieir kingdom ; the liappy as well as the sad experiences of Mary ;
the disturbances of the period of the Reformation; and the visits of James
VI. (often forced and unwelcome, and not always pleasant for himself) to
the castles of his nobility and gentry.
Associations such as these, together with the quaintness and originality
of the bviildings themselves, create in the mind of the observer a certain
admiration and respect. But it may be doubted whether the attention of
the public has yet been fully awakened to the more important bearings of
these ancient structiires on the history of our land, and we trust that what
we have got to tell about them may have some influence in arousing a
deeper and more intelligent interest in the venerable remains of our castles
and domestic edifices than they have hitherto excited.
We hope to be able to show that they contain a most genuine and un-
challengeable record of the gi^adual development of the country, and of the
various stages of civilisation through which the nation has passed. They
reveal to us the social relations of the people of Scotland, both in peace
and war, during all the periods of our national life. They exhibit the
state of comparative prosperity and adversity, of rudeness and refinement,
of jealousy and suspicion, or of neighbourly confidence and friendship, in
which our forefathers dwelt during all the vicissitudes and trials of the
varied epochs of Scottish history. They present to us impressive pictures
of the domestic conditions of the various classes of society, and enable us
to trace the gradual progress of the inhabitants, from a primitively rude
and barbarous condition to one of comfort and refinement. They further
convey to us some idea of the position of this country in relation to other
lands, and the influences produced by the ties of alliance and friendship,
as well as by the experiences of war and invasion — the former leading to
the gradual amelioration of manners and the encouragement of the ameni-
ties of life ; while the latter, although tending to strengthen the national
vigour and love of liberty, having for immediate result the suppi*ession of
the country's commerce and prosperity, and the retardation of her progress
amongst the nations of Europe for a long period of years.
The History of our Ecclesiastical Architecture, while it is most in-
teresting in itself, and shows the influence of alliances with foreign
countries, does not convey to the mind the same vivid impressions of
the condition of the people as that of the castles and houses in which
they dwelt. It will, however, be pointed out as we proceed how the
Civil and Ecclesiastical styles acted and reacted on one another.
It has already been shown* how mediaeval castle building originated
in Gaul, and the great impetus given to it by the Normans. Befoi'e
that vigoi'ous race had developed its full strength in the eleventh century,
the fortifications in use, both abroad and in Britain, consisted either of
ditches and earthen mounds strengthened with wooden palisades, or of
* Vol. I. pp. 2-4.
NORMAN KEEPS — 3 INTRODUCTION
cranoges or artificial islands erected in lakes on piles driven into the
ground. Of these early fortifications many fine specimens are to be seen
north of the Tweed. Another kind of defensive structure prevailed in Scot-
land in pre-historic times, of which a large number of examples exist in
various parts of the country. These fortresses consisted of a round tower
constructed with a very thick wall of vtncemented masonry, so built as
to leave an open circular courtyard in the centre of the tower. The
wall contained a staircase and small apartments and galleries hollowed
out of its thickness and lighted with windows looking into the central
courtyai'd. These forts, or "Brochs," as they are called, have this re-
markable peculiarity, that while they are traceable in eveiy part of
Scotland, from Berwickshire to Caithness, they are strictly limited to the
soil of the country north of the Tweed, no examples having been found
to the south of it. Dr. Joseph Anderson regards them as a part of that
wonderful Celtic civilisation which reached such a high point of develop-
ment in this country in the centuries before the eleventh. The design
and construction of the Brochs are unique, and as places of security they
are well adapted for their purpose. Yet they do not seem to have produced
any lasting influence on the style of fortress adopted in later times. We
have, however, already drawn attention,* and shall again have occasion to
advert to some particulars in the fourteenth-century keeps, for which the
galleries and pigeon-holes wrought in the walls of the Brochs may well
have served as prototypes.
The palisaded mounds surrounding the primitive fortresses were of con-
siderable size, and contained extensive enclosures or courtyards in which
were situated wooden structures consisting of granaries, barracks, &c. In
the centre of the courtyard, and surrounded with its ditch, was raised the
"motte," or mound, on which stood the wooden redoubt, which constituted
the citadel or residence of the commander. But these citadels were liable
to destruction by fire ; and the Normans, who were great workers in
masonry, desiring a more solid and less perishable fortress, substituted
a stone and mortar tower for the wooden redoubt. Thus originated the
formidable and gloomy structure so well known as the "Norman Keep."t
For the wooden palisades were now also substituted solid stone and mortar
walls as the enclosure of the courtyard. Such castles were numerous in
Normandy by the middle of the eleventh century ; and after the Conquest
the whole of England l^ecame studded with these symbols of the Noi-man
power and rule. They spread to the very borders of our oa\ti land, one
being erected at Carlisle on the west, and another at Norham on the
Tweed, on the eastern side of the frontier. But it is a remarkable fact
that not one Norman keep was ever reai'ed in Scotland which is thus
entirely free from those marks of subjection to the Norman invader
which are everywhere impressed upon the soil of England.
* Vol. I. pp. 02 and 236. t For examples see Vol. i. pp. 5-18.
INTRODUCTION 4 CASTLES OF 13tH CENTURY
The Norman keep (as more fully described in Vol. i.) was almost
invariably an oblong tower, of three stories in height. The walls were of
great thickness, with only a very few small loopholes for ventilation in
the ground floor, which was reserved as a storeroom for provisions and
munitions in case of siege.* The first floor was entirely occupied by the
great hall, or common living room, where the chief and his retainers and
domestics fed, and most of them slept ; while the top story formed the
private apartment of the Norman lord and his family. The entrance door
to the keep was placed for security on the first floor level, and was
approached by a moveable wooden ladder, or by a strongly-fortified outer
staircase, contained in a f orebuilding. f The doorway opened directly into
the hall, from which a wheel-stair in the thickness of the wall led to the
top of the tower. The defences of these keeps were mainly passive, chief
reliance being placed on the massive walls, usually twelve to twenty feet
in thickness. So substantially constructed wei'e the walls, and so firmly
cemented together with hot-run lime, that when in recent years it was
desired to form an aperture in the ground floor wall of the Tower of
London, it required six weeks' labour, with all the appliances of modern
science, to penetrate the solid masonry.
The active defence of the keeps was carried on from the parapet which
ran round the top of the walls, and was provided with embrasures or
crenellations, from which arrows and other missiles could be showered upon
the assailants. These Norman castles, when properly provisioned and
garrisoned, were able to resist all the means of assault then known.
What chiefly strikes us now-a-days in connection with these edifices is
the very primitive and rude nature of the domestic accommodation which
satisfied the brilliant chivalry of Normandy, amongst whose requirements
and attainments that of domestic comfort must certainly have held a very
subordinate place. Yet for two centuries after the Conquest such primi-
tive and simple keeps continued to be the abodes of the chief nobles of
England.
Early in the thirteenth century, however, improvements began to be
introduced both in France and England. Great advances had been made
in Ecclesiastical Architecture, and fresh skill had been acquired in the art
of attack and defence of fortresses by the Crusaders, who in this depart-
ment had gained much instruction from their contact with the more
scientific Moors. The passive strength of the massy keep was now found
insuflicient to cope with the new military engines employed in sieges.
These hurled great stones against the parapets, and threw balls of Greek
fire against the I'oofs, demolishing the former, and setting the latter in
flames. It therefore became necessary to keep these formidable engines
at as great a distance as possible, and with this view the walls of the
courtyard were extended and sti'engthened. Towers were also erected at
* See Castle Headingham and Rochester Castle, Vol. i. pp. 13 and 16. t Ihid,
EARLIEST SCOTTISH CASTLES — 5 — INTRODUCTION
the angles and along the flanks, from which they boldly projected, in
order to enable the defenders to protect with cross fire the " curtains " or
spaces of wall between them. The keep, originally the chief feature in
the fortress, now became of minor importance, although still retained as a
last resort or citadel. The great enclosing wall, or "Avail of enceinte,"
with its towers, now really constituted the castle. Each tower was so
constructed and designed as to form an independent post, or little keep,
which had to be assailed separately — the principal keep, or lord's resi-
dence, being merely the largest and most carefully protected of these
redoubts. Great credit is given by Viollet-le-Duc to Richard Coeur de
Lion for his skill in designing castles of this form, that of Chateau Gail-
lard,* which was built by him in a single year, exhibiting all the newest
ideas introduced into the military architecture of the period. These
castles, with great walls of enceinte, prevailed in France and England
during the thirteenth century ; and this is also the type of jorti'ess with
lohich the history of castle building in Scotland commences.
It hfCs already been mentioned that no Norman castles are to be
found in Scotland. While the latter structures were being reared in
England, the ancient wooden fort, upon its "motte," surrounded with an
earthen palisaded mound, or a wall composed of mingled stones and earth,
seems to have been still adhered to in this country. Such was the Pele
of Lumphanan on Deeside, where Macbeth was slain in 1057. But at
the period we have now reached (the twelfth century) a great change
took place in the style of castle building, as well as in the condition of
affairs in the country generally.
From the time of the Norman Conquest numerous English refugees
had fled to the' Scottish Court. Amongst these were the Aetheling and
his sister Margaret. The latter, who subsequently became the queen of
Malcolm Canmore, was naturally desirous to civilise and improve the rude
covintry of her adoption, and, with this view, was favourable to the influx
of Anglo-Saxons, and to their establishment in the land. These refugees
were in course of time followed by hosts of Norman adventurers, either
attracted by the hope of pushing their fortune under the favour of David i.,
or driven northwards by the disturbances of the time in England. Such
adventurous knights were well received at the Scottish Court, and were
frequently gifted with newly-acquired lands. It was doubtless hoped
that their culture and skill in arms would prove useful in defending and
developing the country, and in civilising the inhabitants ; and it was
reasonably to be expected that such wardens would be faithful to the
sovereign to whose generosity they owed their appointment.
These new loi'ds would, as soon as they found it safe and practicable,
try to establish themselves in their possessions by the erection of castles,
which would naturally be designed in accordance with the system of
* Vol. I. p. 26.
INTRODUCTION — 6 — INFLUENCE OP NORMANS
defence and style of castle building to which they had been accustomed
in the more advanced regions from which they came. In this way it is
probable that building with stone and mortar was first introduced into
the construction of castles in Scotland. This also explains how it is that
the earliest mediaeval castles in the country are founded on the design at
that time prevalent in France and England, in which, as above stated, the
castle consists mainly of a great wall of enceinte.
The advent of these Southern guests was very opportune at the time
we are considering, their skill and enterpiise being found valuable in
consolidating the outlying and newly-subdued districts. For it must be
kept in mind that the kingdom of Scotland in the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries was far from being the homogeneous realm we are in the habit
of regarding it in later times. Up to the period of David i. the royal
authority scarcely extended beyond the Grampians. But the Scottish
kings were constantly endeavouring to push forward their borders, and
whenever they did so they at once built castles for the defence of the
territory acquired, or called upon the knights to whom they Entrusted
the lands, to erect fortresses for their security. Thus, Moray was annexed
by David I., and forthwith a castle was raised at Inverness to secure it.
"William the Lion extended his rule still further northwards, adding the
county of Ross to his dominiuns, and planting two castles to the north
of the Moray Frith for its defence. It is highly probable that these
and other early castles before the thirteenth century were of the primeval
kind, consisting of palisaded earthen mounds and ditches. But about
that time the new style of castle with a great wall of enceinte built with
stone and mortar began to be introduced. The general form of this kind
of fortress is not very dissimilar to that formerly in use in Scotland, the
chief difiierence being in the substitution of a high wall built with stones
and mortar instead of the ancient vallum composed of great masses of
rock mixed with turf and earth, and of a keep constructed with masonry
instead of timber. The change was thus not so marked here as in
England, where the square Norman tower with its courtyard had super-
seded the older earthen fortress, and occupied the country for the two
centuries which intervened between the date of the latter and the new
thirteenth-century castle. The important change in Scotland was the
introduction into castles of regular stone and mortar masonry. This, as
we have above seen, was most likely brought with them from the South into
the land of their adoption by the Norman and English settlers. Hitherto
these immigrants had been content to accept the pinmeval forts they
found on the lands assigned to them, or to construct similar ones. But
in the thirteenth century a new order of castles arose.
This new departure was no doubt encouraged by the example of the
ecclesiastics. From the time of St. Margaret the ecclesiastical system
of Scotland had undergone a complete change, the early Culdees, or
CHURCH BUILDIXG EPOCH 7 — INTRODUCTION
priests, being gradually superseded by those under the Roman influence.
The chapels of the former were probably small cells similar to those still
to be found in Ireland, whence the original missionaries of the Scots
came, and in some of the western islands of Scotland. But in the twelfth
century numerous bodies of monks and priests were brought into Scotland.
Alexander, David, and William the Lion distinguished themselves by
their zeal for the Church, and by the establishment of monasteries in
their newly-acquired domains. These institutions were found valuable
not only as centres of religious influence, but were also planted for the
purpose of reclaiming the soil, establishing industries, encouraging agri-
culture, and generally acting as pioneers to civilise and develop the
country. Of the perseverance and success of the many religious colonies
which were at that time imported into all parts of the country, we have
abundant evidence in the splendid architectural remains of the churches
erected within a century of their establishment.
David I. (1124-53) is well known as the great promoter of this en-
lightened policy. AVhen he began his reign he found only four Episcopal
Sees established in the kingdom, all of which he renovated, while he also
formed five new ones, thus leaving nine bishopries behind him. Almost
all the great monasteries and churches were founded by him, or at least
before the death of William the Lion in 1214. The names of Kelso, Dry-
burgh, Jedburgh, Melrose, Dundrennan, W^hithorn, New Abbey, in the
south ; of Holyrood, Cambuskenneth, Dunblane, Brechin, Dunfermline, St.
Andrews, Arbroath, Glasgow, Paisley, in the central districts ; of Elgin,
Pluscardine, L^rquhart, and Kinloss in Moray ; of Fearn, Beauly, Tain,
Dornoch, Kirkwall, in the north ; together with a host of other less
known abbeys and churches, show the extraordinary enthusiasm for church
building which prevailed in Scotland, as it did everywhere throughout
Christendom, during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Nearly all the
gi-eat churches and cathedrals of France and England were also founded
at that time. In the latter century the religious impetus continued
unabated, many of the first modest structures of the twelfth century
being demolished, and larger and more imposing edifices I'eared in their
stead, or great additions made to the earlier buildings. Such was the case
in Scotland at Dunfermline, Kirkwall, Kelso, Melrose, Holyrood, Dun-
blane, Glasgow, St. Andrews, — in fact, at almost every one of the early
establishments. These rebuildings and additions were, of course, executed
in the style of the period when they were done, while many edifices
founded somewhat later are carried out in the first Pointed style. Such
were Arbroath, Stirling, Ardchattan, Crossraguel, Dundee, Inchmahome,
Kilwinning, New Abbey, Saddell, Oronsay, &c. The number of churches
thus reared throughout Scotland was immense, and so constantly and
vigorously were the works pushed on that it was said that "preaching
could not be heard for the sound of the hammers and trowels."
INTRODUCTION 8 POSITION OP SCOTLAND
This was pre-eminently the chvn^cli building epoch in Scotland, as it was
also everywhere throughout Europe. The number of men engaged in
the erection of churches must have been very great. It is difficult to
conceive how such an army of skilled workmen should have sprung up
so suddenly amongst this remote and lately rude and uncivilised people.
It may possibly be suggested that they came from England, whence we
know so many of the monks were fetched. These certainly brought with
them the style of church architecture then practised in the South, and
which was thus adopted at a shortly later date in Scotland. But as
regards the artisans the same difficulty arises, whether we turn to England
or France. The church building mania was, if possible, in a more fully
developed condition in those countries than in Scotland, and it is difficult
to imagine how they could provide the necessary workmen for their own
requirements, not to speak of sparing a multitude for employment else-
where.
It is a well-known fact that, during the reigns of Alexanders li. and
III., in the middle of the thirteenth century, Scotland held a somewhat
prominent position amongst the nations of Europe, and performed her
part in the international policy of the time. She contracted alliances
with foreign countries ; she contributed her quota of knights and soldiers
for the Crusades ; she carried on considerable commerce with France
and the Low Counti'ies, and, as above pointed out, she also joined the
community of European nations in their artistic endeavours to glorify the
Church and exalt the Christian faith by the establishment of monasteries
and the erection of cathedrals and churches. The workmen required
were doubtless natives trained to the woi^k by the ecclesiastics. There
is no reason to suppose that Scotland was not at that period as capable
of supplying workmen as she was of maintaining her position in other
respects.
There can be no doubt that the policy above described of importing
strangers, both lay and ecclesiastical, had the effect of producing an
entire revolution in the culture and condition of the country. One effect
of this introduction of new blood certainly was a burst of prosperity
such as had never before been known. Scotland had, in fact, by this
revolution been subjected to a real though quiet Norman Conquest — very
different, indeed, in its process, but very similar in its results, to that of
England. The principal fiefs had all passed into the hands of Norman
barons of the highest name and descent, in whose favour feudal charters
were granted. The following quotation from Professor Cosmo Innes'
Sketches of Early Scottish History (p. 10) shows how thoroughly the land
had been Normanised : — "It is astonishing with what rapidity those
Southern colonists spread even to the far North. From Tweed and
Solway to Sutherland, the whole arable land may be said to have been
held by them. The great old Houses of Athol, Lennox, and Strathearn
IN 13X11 CENTURY — 9 — INTRODUCTION
were within the fastnesses of the Highlands. Angus soon came into the
De Umphravils through marriage. But of the race of the English
colonists came Bruce, Baliol, Biset, Berkeley, Colville, Cumin, Douglas,
Dunbar — descended of Northumbrian princes, long themselves princes in
the Merse — Fleming, Fraser, Gordon, Hamilton, Lindsay, Maule, Max-
well, Morvil, Moubray, De Quinci, Ruthven, Stewart, Sinclair, Somer-
ville, Soulis, Valoines, Wallace, and many other names, not less powerful
though less remembered." " Norman knight and Saxon thegn set himself
to civilise his new acquired property, settled his vil or his town, built
himself a house of fence, distributed the lands of his manor among his
own few followers and the nativi whom he found attached to the soil."
In a similar manner they founded churches and monasteries, and
distributed their church patronage amongst their relatives and followers.
The old primeval system of the Culdees was soon swept away, and the
new Roman system introduced. Monks and bishops were brought from
England and France ; and, indeed, the whole clergy of Scotland were at
one time within the jurisdiction of the Archbishop of York.
Under this new condition of affairs the country became civilised and con-
solidated. The maormors of the North, with their Highland followers, were
subdued and held in check by the royal castles and the barons appointed
to command them ; while the influences of religion and instruction brought
to bear on the people through the monks and emissaries of Rome tended
to the cultivation of the land and the improvement and enlightenment of
the inhabitants. The art of building with stone and mortar was also
thoroughly introduced and established, and the abundant natural resources
of the country for that purpose were discovered and developed. The
application of the new method of building to civil and military uses, as
well as ecclesiastical, would naturally follow. That the church building,
of which so many examples still survive, was accompanied with castle
building in the same style of masonry, may be well imagined ; but of that
fact we are able to adduce some remarkable proofs in the existence of castles
which are evidently contemporary with the churches of the same locality,
both detached and connected. Together with the new civilisation which,
in the above manner, overspread the land, the latest style of castle em-
ployed in England and France in the thirteenth century was naturally
imported. This, it will be remembered, is the castle consisting of a great
wall of enceinte, strengthened with towers, of which the keep forms the
largest. Much evidence still survives in every part of the country to show
that this was the case, and that these castles are the earliest of which any
trace exists. Several examples of this, the " first period " of our Scottish
Castellated style, have already been exhibited in Vol. i. (p. 65) ; and
others in different parts of the country, including Dumfriesshire, Berwick-
shire, and Ayrshire, besides a number in the Highlands and Islands, are
included in the present series.
INTRODUCTION — 10 — HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS
While adhering to the general idea of the great wall of enceinte, these
Scottish castles vary not a little in their mode of carrying out the plan.
Some consist, like Mingarry and Duart, of nothing but a plain wall of
enceinte ; others, like Castle Roy and Dunstaffnage, show signs of incipient .
towers ; while in others, such as Inverlochy and Achencass, the towers
are moi-e fully developed; and in the castles of Bothwell, Kildrummie, and
Dirleton are displayed, along with the same military features, the richness
and grandeur of the style as it was carried out in France and England.
Castles of this period ai-e not now, however, very numerous in the populous
and progressive parts of the country, where they have, in many cases,
been altered or removed to suit the requirements of later times. But in
the more remote and stationary districts of the Highlands and Islands,
where changeful influences have not been so strongly felt, the result has
been that a large proportional number of our primitive Scottish castles
have survived, and remain almost unaltered till the present day.
It is with agreeable surprise that the investigator finds his labours
rewarded by the discovery of so many examples of the style of the thir-
teenth century in the Highlands and Islands of the West Coast ; and it is
satisfactory to observe in them a striking corroboration of the views already
submitted regarding the first pei^iod of our Castellated style. Owing to
the comparative scarcity of examples of that period on the mainland, it
was with reference to this first division of the subject that confirmation
of the classification adopted in Vol. I. was required; but the examples
now adduced will, it is believed, entirely remove all possibility of doubt
as to its accui-acy. As might be expected, most of the castles in these
outlying localities are of a simple form and somewhat rude construction,
consisting, as they chiefly do, of a plain Avail of enceinte. Unfortunately,
they are also almost entirely destitute of any history beyond what can be
gathered from the internal evidence of the structures themselves ; but
considerable light is thrown on the subject by a consideration of the
general history of the Highlands and Islands during the thirteenth and
fourteenth centuries.
We have already seen how the kingdom was extended northwards in
the twelfth century. At that period, however, little progress had been
made westwards through the mountain barrier of Argyllshire. That
region, together with the Western Islands, as well as the Orkneys and
the northern parts of the mainland, were in the hands of the Scandinavian
Vikings. These bold and enterprising rovers had, in the ninth century,
spread their arms over all those portions of the northern coasts of Scot-
land and the adjacent islands to which their formidable galleys could find
access. In several encounters on the east coast they had been successfully
resisted, but they ultimately succeeded in obtaining complete possession of
all the islands as far south as the Isle of Man, and had also established
themselves in Caithness, and at various points on the West Coast of Scot-
HISTORY OF — 11 — INTRODUCTION
land, as well as on the mainland of Ireland. These possessions formed
what was called the "Kingdom of the Isles." It was held nominally
under the Crown of Norway, but really by almost independent rulers, con-
stantly in revolt against Norway and at war with one another. These
petty kings were for a time brought into suljjection by Magnus Barefoot,
who, in 1093, carried out a formidable expedition for that purpose. He
re-established the suzerainty of Norway, and entered into an agreement
with the King of Scotland, whereby his sway was acknowledged over all
the islands between which and the mainland a helm-carrying ship could
pass. In this category the cunning Norseman managed to include Kintyre,
his right to it being supposed to be established by his causing his galley,
himself seated at the helm, to be dragged across the narrow isthmus
between East and West Lochs Tarbert, which joins the peninsula to the
mainland.
Soon after this time, however, the native inhabitants, oppressed by the
Norwegian yoke, appear to have shown a strong desire to rise and drive
out the strangers. In this movement they were aided by Somerlid, thane
of Argyll, a somewhat mythical personage, who, however, embodied the
spirit and aspirations of the people. Under him the Southern Islands
were recovered from the Norsemen towards the middle of the twelfth
century, and by him they were transmitted to his sons, Ronald and
Dougal. The former became the ancestor of the Maci'onalds, Lords of
the Isles, and the latter of the Macdougals, Lords of Lorn.
Thus, in the middle of the twelfth century, the Kingdom of the Isles
was divided into two, the Point of Ardnamurchan marking the division
between the northern and southern groups. Argyll then formed the
headquarters of the southern portion, or the "Suderies," as it was called.
This extensive and wild province of the mainland was not as yet incor-
porated with the royal domain, but steps were taken for that purpose
early in the thirteenth century, and in 1222 Argyll was brought under
the Crown by Alexander il. Negotiations were then entered into between
the king and Haco of Norway, but these proving unsuccessful, the reduc-
tion of the islands was resolved on. Alexander at once entered vigorously
on the task, but he died in the island of Kerrera (opposite Oban) while
prosecuting the attack. This led to the great invasion of the islands, and
threatened assault upon Scotland, by King Haco, with an overwhelming-
fleet, which resulted in his well-known overthrow at Largs in the Frith of
Clyde, and the cession of all the Western Isles to Scotland, in 1263. By
that act the consolidation of the country was accomplished under Alex-
ander III., who first ruled over the whole kingdom of Scotland, in the
sense in which we now understand the name. But although thus brought
vmder the Scottish Crown, the islanders were for a long time most unruly
subjects, and very fluctuating in their allegiance. Thus Bruce was cordially
supported by Angus Oig of Islay, but bitterly opposed by the Macdougals
INTRODUCTION
12 CASTLES IN THE
of Lorn, while John of Islay (Angus Oig's successor) at first joined Baliol,
but subsequently yielded to David ii., by whom he was pardoned and
allowed to retain a large portion of the islands. In 1346, Amie, the wife
of John of the Isles, succeeded, on the death of her brother Ronald Mac-
alan, to Uist, Barra, Eig, and Rum ; and John, having by this succession
become by far the greatest chief in the Hebrides, assumed the title of
Lord of the Isles. He and his successor's long maintained a kind of inde-
pendence, but during the fifteenth century their power was curbed ; and,
notwithstanding many outbreaks and rel^ellions, the island chiefs were
o-radually brought under complete subjection to the Jameses, and were
found to form an important accession to the strength of the kingdom.
After that time the castles erected in the islands were naturally Scottish
in character (as the examples of the different periods given in the present
series show) ; but it was scarcely to be anticipated that the castles of the
isles during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, when they were prac-
tically independent, would also closely resemble those of the mainland.
The same influences, however, prevailed in those early times among
the Hebrides as in Scotland. We have seen how the Scottish kings, as
they extended their territories in other regions, planted castles for their
defence, and entrusted their safe keeping to some knight in whom they
had confidence. It was impossible in those times to garrison such castles
in any other way, and the keeper had the same interest as the Crown in
protecting his domain against foreign foes. This led to the founding of
William's castles at Edindower and Dunskaith, north of the Moray Frith,
and to the planting of a chain of castles along the Caledonian Valley, to
keep the Highlanders of the north-west in check. Thus Urquhart Castle,
on Loch Ness, and Inverlochy Castle, at the western extremity of the
valley, were called into existence, while Dunstaffnage seems to have been
erected to secure Argyll and form a basis for operations in the Western
Isles. These royal castles were entrusted to wardens, Urquhart being in
the keeping of the Durwards ; Inverlochy in that of the Comyns, Lords of
Badenoch ; and Dunstaffnage under the care of Macdougal of Lorn. Two
of these keepers, it will be observed from their names, belong to Norman
families already established and grown powerful in the North. The Mac-
dougals, again, were descendants of Somerlid, but they were in close con-
tact with the Comyns and other Normans, and if Dunstaffnage was erected
by them, they must have borrowed from their neighbours their style of
castle building. The other Highland and Island chiefs would in a similar
manner acquire from the barons in their vicinity the art of constructing
castles with lofty walls of enceinte.
The Church, too, had spread its influence into these regions, and
numerous chapels exist throughout Argyll and the Isles which belong in
all probability to the Norman and Early English periods (twelfth and
thirteenth centuries). These structures, although very numerous, are
HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS 13 INTRODUCTION
for the most part so simple in form and devoid of ornamental features
that their age is not easily determined.* In some cases, however, the
date can be fixed either by the style of the architecture or by written
evidence. At Dunstaffnage, for instance, the style of the chapel is so
distinctly Early English f that there can be no hesitation in assigning its
date to about the middle of the thirteenth century. And as the castle
is of similar workmanship, and is known to have existed before the time
of Bruce, it may safely be inferred that we have here a genuine thirteenth-
century structure. At Skipness, too (illusti'ated in this volume), the
chapel of St. Columba, which is distmctly in the style of the thirteenth
century, still stands not far from the old castle. Both these buildings
have features in common, and both are referred to in a charter of 1261,
in which Dufgal, the son of Syfyn, presents the patronage of the chapel
close to his castle at Skipness to the monks of Paisley.
The style of the architecture and facts in the history of others enable
us to assign a considerable number of the castles of the Highlands and
Islands to the same period. There is thus every reason to believe that
the castles of the first period in those regions were erected shortly
after the isles came under the sway of King Alexander iii., either
as royal castles or by the island chiefs under the royal authority and
instructions. They all present the leading feature of the thirteenth-
century strongholds of Scotland and England, %dz., the great wall of
enceinte, with or without towers. They are built with stone and mortar,
and most of them have the long nari^ow windows with pointed arches
or loops of a cruciform design characteristic of the pei'iod. In some (such
as Castle Swin) broad buttresses like those of Norman work are used,
and many have the large gateway of the period, covered with a pointed
arch provided with a portcullis, and surmounted by a chamber on the
top of the wall, which contained the machinery for working the latter,
and also served as a post for the defence of the gateway. The conclu-
sion to which we are led by all the circumstances above narrated
connected with these castles of the Western Highlands and Islands is
that they are the result of the general policy of the Crown, which was to
raise fortresses of the thirteenth-century type all over the country, and
entrust them to the keeping of local barons, for the purpose of maintaining
law and order, and with a view to ensure the carrying out of the royal
decrees in every part of the dominion. These fortresses might either be
constructed by royal mandate, or by the powerful barons and chiefs recog-
nised by the Crown, and encouraged to hold their lands under the authority
of the king, to whom they thereby acknowledged themselves vassals.
That these castles should constitute the lii'st period of our Scottish
Castellated Architecture is thus seen to be quite natural. They arose at
* See Air. T. Muir's Characteristics of Old Church Architecture in Scotland.
t Vol. I. p. 91.
INTRODUCTION — 14 DR. HILL BURTON's VIEWS
the period when the Norman strangers had introduced a new order of
culture, both civil and ecclesiastical, into the country, and are therefore
in the style of architecture then practised throughout Europe. It appears
at first sight strane-e that this advanced order of fortress should thus
suddenly, without any preliminary or tentative steps, spring up in every
part of the country. But we trust that the above considerations make
it evident that it could scarcely have been otherwise. The primeval
structures in the form of earthen forts and Culdee chapels continued in
force till the quiet "Norman Conquest" of the twelfth century, above
referred to, had taken effect. Then, exactly as occurred after the more
violent conquest of England in the eleventh century, everything was
changed, and a new civilisation introduced along with the feudal system.
This, too, was the period when the Roman Church and the civil power
spread their influence over the remote parts of the kingdom, including
the islands, and planted everywhere the new forms of architecture
peculiar to the period both in castles and churches.
Dr. Hill Burton, in his careful and generally accurate account of
Scottish Architecture,* refers to the above castles in the Western High-
lands and Islands only to wonder at them ; and while professing his
inability to explain their existence, asks whether they may not have
been reared by the princely Scandinavian rulers of the isles. But we
have no evidence that the Norsemen, like the Normans, were builders
in stone and mortar. Their strength lay on the sea, and they put their
trust in the powerful galleys which they so skilfully constructed, and
in which they could move from place to place as their desire for fighting
and plunder might prompt them.
Now, however, when it is seen how naturally these primitive castles
of the "West fall into their place as part of the earliest period of our
National Castellated Architecture, their origin seems to be explained
in the simplest, which in such cases is generally the best way, and
speculations such as the above become unnecessary.
The distinguishing feature of all the Scottish castles of the thirteenth
century, or first period, is, as already mentioned, a great wall of enceinte,
with or without towers at the angles, crowned with a walk on the top,
defended by a crenellated parapet. The space enclosed is frequently more
or less quadrangular ; but in several instances the wall follows the outline
of the mass of rock or other site on which it stands, thus giving the struc-
ture an irregular and multangular form. Examples of both these designs
are found equally on the mainland and in the islands. Lochindorb in
Moray, Inverlochy in Argyll, and Achencass in Dumfriesshire, show the
square plan, with towers at the angles. Duart in Midi, Skipness and
Castle Swin in Argyll, and Castle Roy in Inverness, were originally
simple parallelograms, two of them with one or two square towers. Loch
* Hist. Vol. II. p. 100.
CASTLES OF FIRST PERIOD 15 INTRODUCTION
Doon Castle, Ayrshire, Mingarry and KismuU in the Hebrides, Home
Castle in Berwickshire, and Urquharb on Loch Ness, follow the outline
of their elevated rocky sites ; while the round form of Rothesay and the
triangular plan of Caerlaverock are special shapes, pi'obably arising from
some peculiarity of the sites, which were by those arrangements the better
adapted for defence by the wet ditches which surrounded them. Some
of these early fortresses, as originally constructed, are of the most primitive
and simple design, and presented to view no other elements besides the
crenellated enclosing wall : such, for example, is Mingarry on the Sound
of Mull. Others were distinguished in outward aspect by the gi'eater
elevation of the angle towers above referred to over the curtains, and by
lofty pointed gateways, armed with a portcullis and its machicolated
chamber above. Thus Inverlochy and Achencass would be relieved by
the commanding towers at the angles ; while Skipness, Swin, and Duart
presented to the eye nothing but a plain enclosing wall, with an outline
broken only by the great gateway, defended by a portcullis, and surmounted
by an upper chamber armed with machicolations.
Such are the simpler forms of the Scottish castles of the first period ;
but (as shown in a previous volume),* the same style of castle is carried
out in a much more extensive and splendid scale in such structures as
Kildrummie in Aberdeenshire, Dirleton in East Lothian, and Bothwell
on the Clyde. An example of fine masonry combined with simplicity
of general form occurs in the present volume, in Loch Doon Castle
in Ayrshire. In these buildings the materials and workmanship are
superior, the walls being constructed with finely wrought ashlar, and
the doors, windows, and parapets ornamented with mouldings and
carved work. So great is the difference between the style of these
castles and that of the ruder erections above referred to, that many have
attributed this superior work to the English during their occupation of
the country under the Edwards. But this supposition does not appear to
be necessary. The more elaborate castles are in the central and civilised
parts of the country, where good freestone abounds, and where building
in ashlar was familiar through the work of the ecclesiastics ; and there
seems to be no reason why families such as the De Moravias should not
desire to have as fine work in their castles of Bothwell and Kildrummie
as in the numerous churches erected by them. Besides, as previously
pointed out, it should not be forgotten that Bothwell rather resembles a
French than an English castle of the thirteenth century, while Dirleton
was in existence before the time of Edward's invasion, and was destroyed
— not restored — by the English. Yet the work at Dirleton is of as highly
finished a character as that of any of the castles in Scotland.
Attention has already been drawn to the pi-osperous condition of the
country during the reigns of Alexanders li. and ill., and the magnificent
* Vol. I. p. 93.
INTRODUCTION — 16 WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
churches and castles which were then erected, whose remains still convey-
to us some impression of the rapid progress the kingdom had made in the
two centuries which had elapsed since Queen Margaret inaugurated the
new system of things. But this state of prosperity was brought to a
sudden close. In 128G King Alexander iii., in a foolhardy ride in the
dark, from Burntisland to his hunting seat at Kinghorn, on the coast of
Fife, was thrown fi'om his horse over the rocks, and killed. His grand-
dauglitei-, the Maid of Norway, his only heiress, died in Orkney, while on
her way to Scotland to ascend the throne. The country, thus deprived of
any legitimate head, was immediately plunged into the difficulties and
disorders of a disputed succession. The nobles were split up into parties,
rule and authority were paralysed, and commerce and business were brought
to a standstill.
Then followed the arbitration of Edward i., resulting in the appoint-
ment of John Baliol as king, and leading to Edward's invasion of Scotland
in 129G, and the occupation of the country by his troops. The people
of Scotland, long accustomed to fi'eedom and independence, could not
endure the loss of liberty and the presence of the stranger in the land ;
and, first under Wallace, and subsequently under Bruce, they rose against
the invaders, and maintained for eighteen years a fierce though inter-
mittent struggle for liberty and independence, which was at length
brought to a successful issue at Bannockburn in 1314. But the conflict
was long and severe, having lasted pi'actically from Alexander's death
in 1286 till 1314. Nor was it yet over; during the greater part of the
fourteenth century a constant strife had to be maintained with Edward
III., and even Richard ii., and it was not till the weak government of
the latter, and the foreign wars and intei-nal dissensions of England, gave
the Scots a favoui-able chance, that they succeeded in finally establishing
their independence.
While this war of a hundi-ed years lasted the country was over and
over again devastated and its resources exhausted. Many of the Norman
nobles, who held the largest estates, forsook Scotland and left her to be
defended by the natives. Thus deprived of her most influential barons,
and thinned out and impoverished by war and famine, the condition of
the country was reduced to one of great misery.
The golden age of Scotland had passed, her commerce was destroyed
and her people ruined. Nothing remained to them save their liberty
and independence. The effect of this disaster is at once apparent in the
castles and houses erected during the above period.
Before this time we have seen that Scotland occupied an acknowledged
place amongst the European nations, and that she kept pace in Castellated
and Chui'ch Architecture (in style, if not in dimensions) with other
countries. But from the time of the wars of secession and independence
her position is completely changed. So utterly exhausted and im-
KEEPS OF 14tII century 17 INTRODUCTION
poverished was the country l)y that protracted struggle that in the
fourteenth century none, not even the liighest and most powerful, could
undertake such extensive works as had been universal in the two preceding
centuries. Besides this, the policy of Bruce forbade the construction of
large castles, which, it was feared, might fall into the hands of the enemy
and give him a secure footing in the land. In these circumstances,
although it is at first sight soTiiewhat surprising, on consideration it is
not unnatural to find that the nobles fell back on the plan of the ancient
Norman keep, which had been abandoned in the land of its birth and
adoption for about two hundred years. Many of these keeps were
douljtless still in use in England, and their arrangements must have been
familiar to those of Norman descent who still held possessions both in
England and Scotland, while their strength would be impressed on the
Scots by experience during their raids over the Border. But the movement
was one of retrogression, and shows how terribly the condition of the
country had been thrown back by the fiery trial through which it had
passed. Here, then, we have another example of the influence of the
" Norman Conquest" upon Scotland. The Norman institutions of Church
and State had, as above pointed out, already spread themselves over the
country, and now, at the late date of the fourteenth century, the Norman
keep is also introduced, and is found as suitable for the nobility of
Scotland in their reduced condition as it had been for those of England
two centuries l:)efore. The close resemblance of the castles of Scotland at
this period to the Norman keep is shown, and their arrangements are fully
described, in a previous volume.* The Scottish, like the Norman keep, con-
sisted of a three-storied tower — having stores in the vaulted basement ; a
common hall on the first floor, where all the retainers, guests, and domestics
fed and slept promiscuously ; and a second floor, which formed the private
apartment of the lord and his family. The walls, like those of the proto-
type of the eleventh century, were massive, the entrance door was on the
first floor, and the defences were at the parapet of the roof. A small
courtyard, containing outhouses, was generally attached to the castle.
The hall was often vaulted, and the roof was frequently formed of stone
slabs, laid on a pointed arch, so that the whole structure might be rendered
completely fireproof.
These simple keeps are especially characteristic of the century which
succeeded Bannockburn, all the castles then erected being of this descrip-
tion. In many instances, particularly in the Western Highlands and
Islands, keeps of this sort have been added to the great wall of enceinte
of the more ancient castles, such as Duart, Kismull, and Ellan-Tirrim,
Even the king's palaces were simple keeps such as above described. At
Rothesay the keep was added to the existing circular wall of enceinte ;
and the castle of Dundonald, in Ayrshire, in which Robert ii. lived, and
* Vol. I. p. 144.
n
INTRODUCTION — 18 — ACCOMMODATION IN KEEPS
died, although on a larger scale, is on the same plan as the other keeps
of the fourteenth century. Dundonald is about 80 feet by 40 feet, while
the castles of the nobles generally vaiy from 40 to 60 feet in length, by
20 to 30 feet in width. The limited accommodation provided by these
structures would appear to have well suited the requirements of the
country in its reduced condition, both then and for a long time afterwards,
as keeps of this kind continued to be erected for the mansions of the
smaller proprietors down to the seventeenth century.
As already mentioned, the accommodation contained in the castles of
the fourteenth century is of the most meagre description — one common
hall being the only apartment for retainers, visitors, and servants. Bed-
rooms were unknown, and even a kitchen was wanting, the cooking being
done at the hall fire or in some shed in the courtyard. In the description
of Pitsligo Castle, to be given in the following pages, there is an old
account, written in 1723, which mentions that "the top story was the
sleeping apartment for the whole family, and had in it twenty-four heels."
There is one chamber, however, which is seldom absent, viz., the
prison or "pit," an adjunct of some importance at a time when every
lord of the manor possessed the power of "pit and gallows," and could
imprison and execute as seemed to him right. Every castle, therefore,
has its prison or "pit," a small chamber about 8 or 9 feet long by
3 or 4 feet wide, formed in the thickness of the wall, and to which
access was obtained only by a stone trap-door in the floor of a guard-
room above. In old castles attention is frequently drawn to iron
hooks or rings in the vaults, which are said to have been used for sus-
pending prisoners from. But that is a popular fallacy. Hangings were
generally executed on a large tree near the castle, where the victim might
be seen and produce the proper effect on the beholders. The gallows-tree
is still pointed out in the vicinity of many of the larger castles. The
hooks in the vaults were used for the innocent purpose of hanging up
provisions or lamps, while the prisons are carefully-constructed pits such
as above described. They had no windows, but are usually ventilated by
a small opening in the wall placed at a high level, and sloped uj)wards
diagonally through the masonry.
As may be readily conceived, everything in the form of ornament was
entirely absent from the fourteenth-century keeps. The corbelling of the
parapet was of the simplest kind, and was even frequently absent, the
parapet being carried up flush with the face of the wall. A round over-
hanging bartizan corbelled out at each angle, together with a few plain
gargoyles to carry off the water from the parapet walks, are the only objects
which break the plain, grim aspect of the structure.
Such were the castles or houses in which the king and the nobility of
Scotland dwelt during the fourteenth century, and these simple keeps
constitute the second period of our Domestic Architecture. The contrast
FRENCH AND ENGLISH CASTLES 19 — INTRODUCTION
between the ci'amped dimensions of these rude and mean abodes and the
grand and imposing castles of the first period is striking indeed, and
conveys a very palpable impression of the miserable and poverty-stricken
condition of the country during the fourteenth century.
Nor did it fare much better with the Ecclesiastical Architecture of
this period, which in the neighbouring kingdom was then at its zenith.
While in England there arose such splendid monuments in the Decorated
style as the west front of York Minster, the Minster and St. Mary's at
Beverley, and the beautiful works at Newark, Carlisle, Ely, Selby, Lich-
field, Exeter, Dorchester, Oxford, and a hundred other places throughout
England, there scarcely exists in Scotland a single edifice which can claim
a place in this the most perfect of Gothic styles. A solitary exception
may pei'haps be made in favour of Melrose Abbey, which was the favourite
shrine of the Bruce, and to the restoration of which he largely contributed.
But even here the work of the fourteenth century was subsequently much
destroyed, and most of the existing building is of a later date.
While the magnificent churches of the Decorated period were in pro-
gress in England, the castles of that country and of France were also
advancing in stateliuess and convenience. The great wall of enceinte of
the thirteenth century, with its keep and round towers, was found to be a
somewhat dismal abode. Extended and more cheerful accommodation
was called for, and was gradually provided by the erection of halls, private
rooms, bedrooms, &c., round the interior of the walls of enceinte, the apart-
ments being provided with cheerful windows overlooking the country. This
arrangement was soon carried out in a very complete mamier in England,
where the absence of foreign enemies had allowed of a more rapid develop-
ment of the dispositions required for comfort and convenience than in
France, where, however, the perfecting of the military elements had been
very successfully carried out. We thus find by the beginning of the
fifteenth century that the domestic arrangements of the castles and manors
in England had reached a high point of development, while in France the
principles of defence had been carried to the farthest limit required by
mediaeval warfare. In both countries the improvements of plan were
accompanied with a growth of refined and decorative architecture which
converted these structures, reared for service in war, into beautiful and
commodious palaces and mansions, full of elegant furnishings and decora-
tions.
Scotland during the fourteenth century had, unfortunately, from the
causes above referred to, dropped far behind in civilisation and in social
and material development. But during the fifteenth century manners
and means had so far improved that the three or four rooms of the
keep no longer sufficed for the accommodation of the larger proprietors
and it was not long till a plan was adopted for enlarging the number of
apartments. This consisted of the addition of a wing or tower at one
INTRODUCTION 20 IMPROVEMENT OF KEEPS
corner of the oblong keep. By this means a few small chambers were
obtained, which might be used as separate bedrooms. This wing gave
the building the shape of the letter L, and the design thus produced is
therefore called the L plan. At Borthwick Castle two such wings are
added to the keep, both on one side, and a large number of rooms is
thus obtained. In other cases, such as Elphinstone, the simple oblong
form is preserved, and extraordinary expedients are adopted in order to
enlarge the accommodation and provide separate sleeping places. Some-
times the walls are hollowed out with small chambers just large enough to
hold a bed. Occasionally two of these wall-chambers are inserted in the
height of one story, with small stairs leading to the upper ones. Even the
haunches of the vaults and every odd corner are made available for the
construction of sleeping places.* So peculiar and remarkable are these
structures, honeycombed with cells, that they tempt one to imagine that
they may indicate a traditional form of construction handed down from
the days of the Celtic Brochs. In other instances, as many chambers
as possible, with low ceilings, are crammed into the height of the wing of
the L plans,! and the staircase, being in the angle of the wing, served to
give access to all these pigeon-holes as well as to the larger apartments of
the main keep. Separate kitchens also gradually came into requisition.
These were either placed in the wing, as at Borthwick, or in a wall-chamber,
as at Sauchie, or a narrow slice, 4 or 5 feet wide, was cut off from one end
of the hall by a partition, and provided with a great chimney, sometimes
larger than the kitchen itself. Examples of this arrangement occur at
Elphinstone, Newark, and a number of castles near the Frith of Clyde,
described in this volume, such as Fairlie, Law, and Saddell. After a time,
however, it was found expedient to banish that useful apartment to the
basement floor, where there was more room for it, and where its savoury
odours would have freer play. At Dunnottar the kitchen was originally in
the wing, but was subsequently removed to the basement (see Vol. I. p. 568).
Many of the keeps of the fifteenth century have also at least one additional
story added to the height of the main building, and largely increased
accommodation is thereby obtained.
Progress in culture is at the same time shown in the adornment as
well as the convenience of the dwelling — the desire for ornamentation
expanding as the accommodation improved. The corbellings of the
parapet and bartizans, at first entirely useful features, were now converted
into ornamental ones, and frequently display considerable taste. The
doorways, although still jealously guarded and armed with iron-grated
doors, are now brought down for convenience of access to the ground level.
They are also surrounded with mouldings, and surmounted with one or more
panels, containing the shield and arms of the founder and his wife. Of
* See Elphinstone, Comlongan, &c., Vol. i. pp. 233, 237.
t See Borthwick, Vol. i. p. 348,
NEW STYLE INTRODUCED 21 INTRODUCTION
all these features Balvaird (Vol. i. p. 335) may be referred to as a favour-
able example. The interiors are also more or less decorated. The fire-
places have the jambs carved into shafts with ornamental caps and bases ;
shields are cut or painted on the corbels supporting the joisting, and on
the mantelpiece; and the walls and vaults are covered with painted plaster
work, or panelled with wood and hung with tapestry.* At Borthwick
and Craigmillar such paintings on the walls and vault of the hall were
till recently, quite visible, and seemed to have been of an heraldic character.
One of the most striking and remarkable circumstances observable in
connection with our Scottish Domestic Architecture is the persistence
with which the keep plan is adliered to through all the changes of several
centuries. The " Norman Keep," introduced, as we have seen, in the four-
teenth century from necessity, continued from choice to be the general
style of domestic architecture, at least amongst the smaller proprietors,
till the seventeenth, and even the eighteenth century.
During that lengthened time it received, as was to be expected,
many modifications ; but the simple oblong tower-house of three or four
stories in height remained to the end of the above period a favourite
form of residence, thus showing that, amongst the smaller lairds at least,
domestic comforts and requirements in the seventeenth century differed
but little from those of the days of the good King Robert in Scotland or
of the Norman kings in England!
While the smaller proprietors rested satisfied with the restricted ac-
commodation supplied by the keep plan, either in its original simple form
or improved by the modifications and enlargements above referred to, the
higher and wealthier nobles called for a larger and more commanding style
of residence. By the fifteenth century the country had become somewhat
more settled, and was beginning to recover from the exhaustion of the pre-
vious harassing period. Those who were able to afford it now began to
look about them to see what improvements might be introduced, and natu-
rally sought for information in the neighbouring lands of France and
England, where castle building had made so much greater progress. The
result was that an arrangement similar to that above mentioned as having
been adopted in those countries at a much earlier date now found its way
into Scotland. This consisted of the erection of numerous halls and apart-
ments round a central courtyard. These halls and apartments w^ere first
introduced into the French and English castles as independent structures,
each being constructed of the form and size required, and they were placed
round the inside of the wall of enceinte wherever found most convenient,
without regard to regularity or unity. Gradually, however, they came to
be grouped together and brought within the limit of a well-understood
combination — the great hall, forming the central object, having the kitchen,
pantry, and buttery at the end next the entrance ; and the lord's solar or
* See Borthwick, Balvaird, Dundas, Comlongan, &c., Vol. i. pp. 350, 338, 330, 239.
INTRODUCTION 22 OLD CASTLES ENLARGED
private room, with bedrooms above and wine-cellar beneath, at the
upper or "dais" end. In the larger and more magnificent castles, as,
for example, at Pierrefonds and Warwick,* other apartments, such as a
banqueting hall, a hall of justice, private dining-rooms and drawing-
rooms, ikc, were afterwards added, and finally the edifice came to consist
of a central quadrangle entirely surrounded with buildings.
In Scotland also we find the same course pursued. Many of the
castles erected on this "courtyard plan" are far from having the
accommodation regularly or equally distributed around the interior quad-
rangle ; but it is evident that the intention has been to arrange the
buildings after this manner. At Doune, Tantallon, and Dirleton, for
example, the quadrangle is (now at least) far from being complete ; but
at Doune it has clearly been intended that the courtyard should be entirely
surrounded with buildings, as windows are constructed in the walls in
anticipation of future erections. At Tantallon, Dirleton, and other castles
the courtyard was doubtless formerly much more complete than we now find
it. In the courtyard castles of the fifteenth century, however, thei-e occurs
a certain amount of capriciousness and irregularity in the arrangements
of the plans, which is not observable in the more fully developed examples
in the neighbouring lands. But this rudeness of disposition is avoided
in the more perfect and finished examples of the royal palaces at Lin-
lithgow and Stirling, which are as complete in their arrangements as the
castles of other countries.
Besides the castles which were designed from the first on the court-
yard plan, many others, which necessity had obliged to be at first
erected as keeps, were now extended by the construction of halls and
other buildings round a courtyard — the keep, however, still being retained
as the nucleus. Such piles as Craigmillar, Edzell, Crichton, &c., show
how this was carried out, and how the simple keep of the days of distress
in the fourteenth century became enlarged into the spacious and sump-
tuous mansion of the days of abundance at a later date.
The castles above described, which were designed as or extended
into courtyard plans, specially characterise the third period of our
Castellated Architecture. They mark a distinct change in the condition
and prospects of the country by their superiority to the meagre keeps
of the previous period. They show that the epoch of exhaustion and
depression was passing away, and that a certain amount of ease and
affluence was returning. Fear of annihilation as a people, or of any new
and serious attempt at subjugation by their more powerful neighboui',
was at an end. A certain amount of comfort and elegance was also now
attempted, combined, however, always with an increase rather than a
decrease in the defensive strength of the works. The castles of the
fifteenth century, although sometimes designed with considerable efibrts
* Vol. I. pp. 45-49.
CASTLES OF THIRD PERIOD — 23 INTRODUCTION
at artistic effect, limit these efforts to the interior of the courtyards and
apartments, and still present, externally, an aspect as rude and warlike,
though at the same time larger and more formidable looking than the
grim keeps of the preceding period.
Such edifices, for example, as Doune and Tantallon have a much
grander and more powerful appearance than any structures erected in
Scotland since the days of Bothwell and Kildrummie, while internally
they show signs of considerable advancement in social relations. Thus at
both the keep is no longer merely the strongest tower of last resort, but
forms a large mansion for the residence of the lord, built so as to be inde-
pendent of, although comiected with, the rest of the castle. In this
respect, as pointed out in Vol. i., they resemble some of the French castles
of the period. The keep of Doune had its own hall, cellars, private rooms,
drawing-room, chapel, and bedrooms.* The other portions of the castle
contained the banqueting hall, a spacious chamber adorned with carved
corbels and open timber roof, and provided with a minstrel's gallery, all
doubtless being adorned with paintings and hangings. There were also
great kitchens and bakehouses, serving rooms and suites of guests' apart-
ments. But these portions of the castle entered by different doors and
stairs from the keep, which was jealously guarded, and reserved for the
lord of the castle and his family and retainers only.
This, the third period of our castles, continued into the first half of the
sixteenth century, and coincided with the reigns of the first five Jameses,
terminating about the time of the death of James v., which took place
at Falkland in 1542. It thus comprises the great royal castles or palaces
at Edinburgh, Stirling, and Linlithgow. The two latter are probably the
most perfect examples we possess of the courtyard plan of the third
period. In both the quadrangle is completely sun'ounded with buildings,!
containing the private apartments of the Royal Family, as well as the
great hall (large enough to contain an occasional meeting of the Estates),
the chapel, reception rooms, banqueting hall, &c. ; thus showing, what we ai-e
also assured of from other sources, that in the time of James iv. and v.
the state and dignity of the Court were well upheld, and that the king-
was again in a position to occupy a becoming place amongst the rulers of
other countries, and to receive and suitably entertain distinguished foreign
guests. During the reigns of the Jameses the country had made great
progress, and had recovered a lai'ge part of her foreign commerce. This
was carried on chiefly with the Netherlands. In 1400 Bruges was the
centre of the Scotch trade. In 1444 it was removed to Camp Vere, where
it continued till 1539, when it was changed to Antwerp, and, two years
later, to Middleburgh. The ledger of Andrew Haliburton, who was " con-
servator of the privileges of the Scotch nation " in the Netherlands, has
been preserved, and is published by order of the Clerk Register. It
* Vol. I. p. 423. t Vol. I. pp. 468, 488.
INTRODUCTION — 24 — IMPROVING STATE OF SCOTLAND
extends from 1492 to 1503. Haliburton resided at Middleburgh, and
acted for a large number of the nobles, clergy, and merchants, who carried
on business abroad, receiving from Scotland quantities of wool, rough
cloth, preserved salmon and trouts, hides, furs, large pearls, &c., and
returning spices, sugar, silks, velvets, grograms, gold thread, wine, &c.
The trade of the world was then concentrated at Antwerp, and Scotland
was thus enabled to exchange her goods at headquarters.
From the nature of the imports it is evident that the country was
again growing in wealth. Wine was imported in considerable quantity,
and the silks and velvets brought from abroad were doubtless used for
the more sumptuous garments which could now be afforded. The clergy
ordered chalices, altar-cloths, and other church furnishings ; but there is
no indication of any of the paintings for which the Low Countries were
then famous being in demand, or that artists were brought over to embel-
lish the edifices. Hangings, however, are mentioned, and wei'e doubtless
employed for the adornment of the walls of the principal apartments of
the castles and mansions. Thus it happened to " Squyer Meldrum," * when he
" went to repois,
He fand his chalmer weill arrayit
With dornik work t on buird displayit. "
Literature and poetry had now also revived, showing that the people
had a certain amount of the leisure and refinement necessary for such
pursuits. The exploits of the great war were told by Barbour in The
Bruce in the middle of the fourteenth century, and by Blind Harry in his
Wallace a century later. Fordun and Wintoun wrote The Chronicles of
the country, and amongst the poets were James i., James v., Henrysone,
Dunbar, Montgomery, Gavin Douglas, and Sir David Lindsay. Printing,
too, was introduced early in the sixteenth century by Walter Chepman,
and encouraged by James iv.
The general advancement made during the period under consideration
is further evidenced by the revival of Ecclesiastical Architecture at the
time. We have seen how the great church building epoch was suddenly
brought to a close by the invasion of Edward i., and that few churches of
importance had been erected during the period of exhaustion in the four-
teenth century. In the fifteenth century, however, church building to a
certain extent revived. But it was no longer an affair of the nation ; the
popular voice and the national funds did not now run in the direction of
building cathedrals and monasteries. The efforts towards the erection of
religious structures were much more modest, and for the most part private.
Monks from abroad were not now needed to reclaim the land and instruct
in agriculture ; and it is doubtful whether they could have been found in
those degenerate days even if wanted. Proprietors were now content to
* Sir David Lindsay's Poems. t Damask stuff used for hangings.
ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE — 25 — INTRODUCTION
raise chapels on their estates, and endow them sufficiently to main-
tain a proper service in them. Hence arose a very interesting group
of collegiate churches, each served by a "college," or fixed number of
priests and choristers, whose stipends were paid out of the endowments.
Probably the finest of these collegiate churches was the Trinity College
Kirk of Edinburgh, founded in 1462 by Mary of Gueldres, queen of
James ii. St. Giles', Edinburgh, originally the parish church, was burned
by the English, and was restored and made collegiate in the fifteenth
century. St. Michael's, Linlithgow, a large church rebuilt after a fire in
the fifteenth century ; St. Salvador's and St. Leonard's, at St. Andrews ;
King's College, Old Aberdeen; St. Nicholas, New Aberdeen; Corstorphine,
Crichton, Dalkeith, Dunglass, Restalrig, Rosslyn, Torphichen, Midcalder,
Seton, in Lothian ; Lincluden in Dumfries ; Biggar, Bothwell, Carnwath,
in Lanarkshire ; Maybole in Ayrshire ; St. Duthac's in Ross-shire, still
remain in whole or in part to testify to the architectural taste and activity
of the fifteenth and early years of the sixteenth century.
In the Norman and first Pointed periods of our Ecclesiastical Archi-
tecture there was, as we have already seen, a strong affinity with the
corresponding styles in England, but after the great war the connection
with England was broken and the commercial relations and artistic
tendencies of Scotland from that time have a leaning towards Continental
alliance and taste. This was only natural when we consider the intimate
political connection between France and Scotland in the time of the
Jameses, and the friendship produced by the valuable assistance rendered
by each country to the other in their union against the common foe.
Many foreign features thus came, through intercourse with France and
the Netherlands, to be introduced into the above edifices — such as the
apsidal termination of the choir which occurs in several of the collegiate
churches, and the flamboyant character of the tracery. The almost
total absence of the Perpendicular or Tudor style of England is very
marked and extraordinary, and shows how little sympathy there was
between the countries in the days of Henry vii. and viii. The Ecclesiasti-
cal and Castellated styles now become more mixed up with one another
than formerly. In Linlithgow Palace, for example, many of the features
have an ecclesiastical character. Not to mention the niches in the
chapel, where such a style would naturally be expected, reference may
be made to the great entrance gateway from the east,* and to the scrolls
and figures over the inner archways in the east and south walls of the
courtyard.! The carvings at Borthwick, Bothwell (the later portion),
and Dirleton, and the niched buttresses at Falkland f all show the same
tendency.
On the other hand we find some important features of castellated
architecture introduced into the churches. The most prominent of these
* Vol. I. p. 481. t Vol. I. pp. 483, 491. | Vol. i. p. 498.
INTEODUCTION
— 26
STYLE OF CHURCHES
Fig. l.-Dunglass Collegiate Church
, lookiug West.
FEUDALISM IN SCOTLAND
27
INTRODUCTION
is the style of the vaulting, which in almost every one of the collegiate
churches is more or less of the waggon form so universal in the castles.
In most instances the plain barrel vault, usually pointed, is employed
and sustains a roof formed of overlapping flagstones, similar to that used
in the castles from an early period. The annexed interior and exterior
views of Dunglass Church, Haddingtonshii-e (Figs. 1 and 2), will serve
to make this clear. In other churches (such as St. Mirren's Aisle,
Paisley, Seton Chapel, and parts of St. Giles', Edinburgh) the barrel form
is to a certain extent concealed and is ornamented with ribs. These
follow the curve of the waggon vault, and are generally not constructive,
but purely decorative. In castles also this form of vaulting was adopted,
Fig. 2. — Dunglass Collegiate Church, from North-East.
as, for example, in the great hall of Dundonald.* The most remarkable
instance of the peculiar waggon vaulting of the tifteenth century is that
at Rosslyn Chapel, where the barrel form of the vault is acknowledged
and emphasised with sui'face ornament,! and is preserved even on the
exterior, the outer surface being curved like the interior. This is not
covered, as is usually the case, with flagstones, but forms the exterior
of the roof. That this was the original intention is apparent from the
fact that the gable end is curved to correspond with the arched shape
of the roof.
Towers finished with corbelled and crenellated parapets like that of
* Vol. I. p. 173. t An excellent view of this is given by Billings.
INTRODUCTION
28
CASTLES OF HIGHEST PERIOD
t;=<^
Dunfermline (Fig. 3), some having also corbelled bartizans at the angles,
J;^. such as Dunblane (Fig. 4), buttresses
terminated with sun-dials, as at Cor-
storphine (Fig. 5), crow-stepped gables
and similar features, show the en-
croachments made at this time by
the Domestic on the Church archi-
tecture of the third period. In the
following period we shall find that
this tendency went on increasing, till
our churches became, so far as archi-
tectural style is concerned, scarcely
ri^'tlistinguishable from our domestic
tructures.
The period we have just been con-
sidering is that in which feudalism
in Scotland reached its highest de-
velopment. We have seen how, in
the first period, the civilisation and
manners of the South had been intro-
duced by the Norman and Saxon re-
fugees, and how the country had thus
become familiarised with the feudal
customs and chivalry of the rest of
Evirope. But the development of these
Pig. 3.-Dunfeimline Abbey. Western Tower, institutions had been checked by the
long wars of the fourteenth century; and it was only now, when^the country
had re-established its position and obtained a cer-
tain degree of repose and prosperity, that the
feudalism and chivalry of the Middle Ages had
an opportunity of exhibiting themselves in their
full development and vigour. In Scotland, as in
other countries, the feudal system led to the undue
increase of the power of the nobles, and to constant
efforts on their part to vie with one another and
with royalty. The great predominance and influ-
ence of the Douglases, with their immense territorial
possessions ; the rise and prominence of the Living-
stons, Crichtons, and Boyds, from intrigues con-
nected with the guardianship of the young kings
during their minority ; the pretensions and disputes
of the great feudal vassals in their different counties
— are the events which constitute the history of
this strange and picturesque period in our annals. Ym. 4.-Dunbiane Cathedral.
Tower.
OF CHIVALRY IN SCOTLAND
— 29
INTRODUCTION
Fig. 6.— Corstoi'ishiue Church.
It was in the midst of this feudal life and spirit that we might naturally
look for the full development of the mediajval castle — that combination
of the fortress and the palace — which, as we
have seen,* had attained to such perfection
in France and England somewhat before this
time. And specimens of this pride and
dignity of feudalism are not wanting hei'e.
The great Castle of Tantallon represents the
power of Angus, the head of the younger
branch of the Douglases ; Edzell, that of the
Lindsays ; the Dean, that of the Boyds ;
Crichton Castle, that of the Crichtons ;
Dunnottar, that of the Earls Marischal.
The state and strength of the feudal Church
also is well maintained in such structures
as Arbroath and Dunfermline Abbeys, the
Bishops' Palaces at Spynie and Kirkwall,
and the Castle of the Primate at St. Andrews.
These structures reveal to us, and picture vividly to the mind, a state
of life and society so different from our own, and so full of the picturesque-
ness of mediaeval times, that we are inclined to linger over it and dwell
upon its peculiarities, as we would upon those of a foreign country we are
visiting. We feel in a new elemcint, and stop to enjoy the novelty and
variety of the surroundings.
The feudal pomp and state of the king as he moved from one palace
to another, surrounded by a brilliant Court and attended by all the dis-
tinguished of the kingdom, lay and ecclesiastic, as his ministers and
servants, and encouraging by his patronage the poets, artists, and
musicians of the day ; the great barons in their several castles repeat-
ing on a variety of scales the same display, sometimes equalling, if not
exceeding, that of royalty in magnificence ; the bishops and abbots, in
their fortified palaces and monasteries, vying with the nobles in the
splendour of their retinues and the number of their armed followers ;
and every smaller proprietor endeavouring to maintain in his tower of
fence, with a few retainers, an independent state — all completely fortified
and in a constant position of watchfulness and armed neutrality or actual
warfare ; the innumerable feuds and constant clash of arms ; the frequent
movement of bodies of steel-clad troops, or the swift passage of the solitary
armed messenger — present a picture as widely different from that of modern
times as it is possible to conceive.
But shortly after the death of James v., by the middle of the sixteenth
century, a change in the conditions and relations of the various elements
of society began to manifest itself, the result of which became apparent in
* Vol. I. p. 44.
INTRODUCTION — 30 CHANGE OF CONDITIONS
tlie establishment of the Reformation and the introduction of modern ideas
and modes of life.
The unsettled condition of the country during the minority and reign
of Queen Mary, the troubles of the Reformation, and the disputes with
England under Henry viii. were very unfavoui-able for the progress of
architecture, and tended rather to the destruction than the development
of our buildings, whether civil or ecclesiastical. The ruthless invasions of
Hertford and Somerset in 1544 and 1547 were especially severe on the
castles, churches, and every kind of property in the south-eastern district.
Amidst all the strifes, however, of that agitating period the country
generally was progressing, education was advancing, manners were soften-
ing, the towns were growing in importance, and the voice of the people
was making itself heard, as was particularly apparent in the popular
manner in which the Refoi'mation was adopted and maintained. Agricul-
ture was improving and business was spreading ; and when the compara-
tively quiet reign of James vi. succeeded, a remarkable tide of prosperity
displayed itself. Not only were the landed proprietors, who had obtained
large accessions to their incomes by the secularisation of the church lands,
enabled to build themselves splendid mansions, both on their estates and
in the towns, but the merchants and citizens now also found themselves in
a position to maintain town mansions and warehouses of some pretensions ;
while the humbler members of the mei'chant guilds could also afford to
erect substantial dwellings and shops of masonry, some of which have
sui'vived to our own time.
The period of the power and supremacy of the feudal barons was now
passing away. The king and the commons were gradually gaining the
ascendancy, and the importance of the feudal castle and the monastic
rule was in the decline. The merchants and craftsmen of the towns
were now independent of them. The education and training of the
people enabled them to carry on their business without the protection
of a feudal superior, and the craftsmen and ti'aders who formerly clustered
round the baron's castle or the abbot's gate now prosecuted their affairs
under the shelter and privileges of the towns and guilds. The castle
and the hall declined and the towns prospered. The barons no longer
erected huge walls of enceinte for defence, and great halls for the
entertainment of numerous retainers and visitors. Their castles became
mansions for the private occupation of themselves and their families,
and were constructed of suitable size and arrangements for that
purpose.
But the country was not yet free from feuds, and many bloody scenes
disgraced the reign of James' vi. Wars of leligion and private quarrels
still created some disturbance, and it was necessary that every man's
house should still be his "castle," in the sense of being strong enough to
resist such sudden onslaughts as might yet be expected. Hence there
AXD STYLE AT REFORMATION 31 INTRODUCTION
arose in the country those numerous structures generally dignified with
the name of "castles," which are in fact only the private mansions of the
nobles and landed proprietors, but retain so many of the defensive features
of the days of feudal power and chivalry as give them that picturesque
and unique character for which our Scottish "chateaux" of the beginning
of the seventeenth century are so remarkable. In France and England a
similar period had been passed through, but it had occurred at an earlier
time. Although, therefore, a corresponding mixture of domestic and
militai-y elements may be observed in the mansions of these countries,
yet, as the transition did not take place at the same date as in Scotland,
it is somewhat different in style and character. In the former countries
the passage fi'om the warlike castle to the peaceful mansion took place
while the style was still Gothic, and gave rise to the beau.tiful chateaux of
the time of Louis xi. and xii. and Francis I. in France, and of the Tudors
in England. By the time of James vi. the mansions in those countries
were almost entirely free from warlike features, and the well-known
dwellings of the Elizabethan period were about as complete in domestic
arrangements and innocent of defensive elements as the country houses of
the present day.
But in Scotland the change was later in coming, and we thus find that
the coi'bellings and turrets of the Castellated style continued to be employed
along with the Renaissance elements which at the same time were gradu-
ally growing up here. The result is a blending of Scotch Castellated and
Renaissance features quite different in style from the mixture of defensive
elements with the late Gothic details, which is found in other parts of
Europe. This forms one of the great charms of the Scottish style, and gives
it that unique and distinctive character which renders it so striking and
attractive. This, too, constitutes a positive i*ef utation of the theory which
assumes that the Scottish architecture of this period is all borrowed from
France — on which enough has already been said in a previous volume.*
In the Elizabethan Architecture of England, and in the domestic work of
the Continent in the sixteenth century, a considerable amount of timber
construction was employed, and eveiywhei-e picturesque examples are to
be met with of the overhanging and trussed and framed structures thus
produced. In Scotland, too, a great deal of this sort of work was em-
ployed, particularly in the towns, where the traditional wooden construc-
tion of the houses rendered its adoption easy and natui'al. A few of these
interesting relics of our municipal edifices still survive, and drawings of
many remarkable examples now gone are preserved in the fine work of
the late James Drummond, R.S.A., on Old Edinburgh.
In the following volume are given some of the few specimens of our
town houses still remaining, and attention is directed to these as examples
of the corbelled and projected fronts which (as elsewhere pointed out f) we
* Vol. ir. pp. 12-14. t Vol. II. p. 10.
IXTRODUCTION — 32 — HOUSES IN TOWNS
believe to be the original motive or idea on which the large amount of
stone corbelling, so distinctive of our Scottish buildings of the fourth
period, is founded.
In the introduction to the fourth period* it has been shown how the
various circumstances of the time combined to produce the characteristics
of our latest style. The gradual encroachments of the Renaissance modi-
fied, as above mentioned, the aspect of the transition from fortified to
peaceful design. The invention and use of artillery rendering the mediaeval
fortress untenable, served, along with the social changes we have alluded
to, to hasten the fall of the " castle," and the substitution of the " mansion "
instead. The Reformation supplied funds to the landowners (from the
secularised church properties) with which to build and decorate their
houses ; and the union of the Scottish with the English Crown brought
about closer relations between the countries, and led to the improvement
of manners and the assimilation of the conditions of life in the North to
those of the more advanced and cultivated South. All these changes in
the social condition of the country could not fail to produce a strong efiect
on the buildings of the period. "We have already seen how the domestic
elements were superseding the military, and the idea of comfort and ease
was overcoming that of strength and security. This is distinctly observ-
able in the plans of the mansions. The "courtyard plan," which was
rudely begun in the third period, and was only carried out with anything
like regularity in the royal palaces of Linlithgow and Stirling, was now
adopted in many of the mansions throughout the country. At first it
was applied in a somewhat crude and tentative manner (as at Tolquhan,
Dunnottar, Stobhall, &c.) ; but in later examples, such as Heriot's
Hospital, Argyll's Lodging, Stirling, Caroline Park, and Drumlanrig,
the quadrangle is designed with the buildings arranged around it in
perfect order and strict symmetry. In the larger mansions, too, like
Drumlanrig, the accommodation provided is very abundant, so much so
that the latter still serves as the residence of one of the principal nobles
of Scotland.
The old "hall," with its numerous and miscellaneous occupants, was
now converted into the modern dining-room, and the other apartments
also assumed a modern guise. Drawing-rooms, galleries, libraries, boudoirs,
parlours, and private suites of apartments were distributed round the
courtyard, and all the arrangements of modern life gradually superseded
the older forms. Of these changes the plans of Holyrood Palace (to be
given in the following pages), and of Dunnottar, Drumlanrig, and Caroline
Park,! give good illustrations. Seton Palace, near Tranent, was probably
the most sumptuous example of the Domestic style of the fourth period,
both as regards its arrangements and design. It has unfortunately been
completely swept away ; but from what remains of the beautiful work,
* Vol. 11. p. 1. t Vol. I. p. 562; ii. 446, 453.
PLANS OP THE 4tH PERIOD — 33 — IXTRODUCTIOX
both internal and external, at Winton House,* built by the same family
and about the same time, we may form a fair idea of the magnificence of
its greater contemporary.
The above remarks on the improvement in accommodation and disuse
of defensive features apply of course to mansion houses, which henceforth
occupy a different position and are entirely separate from the castles.
The latter, such as Edinburgh, Stirling, Dunbar, Tantallon, and Dumbar-
ton, were now regarded as national fortresses, to be held and maintained
by the Crown for the defence of the country. Private mansions were no
longer considered " castles " in the old sense, although still built sufficiently
strong to resist a sudden raid ; but they generally still retained the name
simply as a title of courtesy.
The numerous mansions erected in the fourth period present us, how-
ever, with other plans besides that of the quadrangle. As in the third
period, the traditional plans of the previous period are still retained, many
houses being erected both on the simple keep and on the L plan. But
these generally present certain slight modifications, which serve to show
that the work is late in date. The simple keep — such, for example, as
Amisfieldf — although quite a plain oblong on plan, is carried up with so
remarkable a variety of corbelled turrets, ornamental dormers, and pointed
gables and chimneys, that the original simplicity of the plan is lost sight of.
The L plan also has the plain outline occasionally broken, as at Craigievar, {
with a number of small projections on which turrets are corbelled out,
while the parapet and upper story are surmounted with that picturesque
variety of turret and gable which render the style so attractive and so
unique and unmistakable. But with all these ornamental details a certain
number of defensive elements are still preserved, as necessary amidst the
jealousies and petty feuds of the period. Thus, the angle turrets, which
at that time had come to be used as small closets or dressing-rooms, enter-
ing ofi" the rooms, were provided with shot-holes in the floor, and might be
made available by lifting a small trap-door. Very frequently shot-holes
are also pierced under the window-sills, and the vaulted basement is sup-
plied with similar apertures, one or more being always placed so as to
command the entrance door. Firearms being now in common use, these
shot-holes are generally small apertures, just sufficient to allow the muzzle
of a gun to pass through.
The introduction of firearms had the further effect of producing a new
form of plan in many of the Scottish mansions of the sixteenth century.
This was a novel modification of the keep. Instead of having one square
wing, like that of the L plan, placed at one of the angles of the oblong
block, the new plan has a round or square tower placed at two of the
diagonally opposite angles, thus producing a zigzag figure, which we have
designated the "Z plan."
* Vol. ir. p. 520. t Vol. ii. p. 20. J Vol. ii. p. 106.
C
INTRODUCTION 34 THE Z, E, AND T PLANS
This design well meets the various i-equirements of the peiiod by
enabling each face of the main-block to be defended with shot-holes in
the angle towers, and also by providing a considerable amount of addi-
tional accommodation in the second wing or tower.
A large number of country houses were erected on this plan, some
of them, such as Terpersie,* being quite small, but furnished with a
great many little chambers in the two wings ; others, such as Castle
Fraser,t of considerable size, but with similar arrangements on a much
larger scale. It is worthy of note that as the " mansion " took the place
of the house of fence, the Z plan gradually gave place to the L and
other more peaceful and convenient arrangements of the apartments.
These various modifications of the keep plan continued to be erected
till far on in the seventeenth century. In some are found only the
simplest elements of the original keep — the plain three-storied square
tower ; others have a kitchen and a few bedrooms in the single wing of
the L plan, or a larger number of chambers in the two wings of the
Z plan. It is thus seen that, although a few pi-oprietors remain satis-
fied in the seventeeth century with the primitive accommodation of the
time of Bruce, still a great advance in manners and mode of living has
evidently been made on the whole. This is specially noticeable in the
efforts made, and the expedients adopted in most of the smaller
mansions, to supply the number of private rooms now universally
demanded.
These efforts naturally produced further variations of the traditional
plans, so that in the seventeenth century we find not only simple keeps
and L and Z plans, but other modifications of the keep which require
two additional letters of the alphabet to distinguish them, and which
we accordingly designate the E and T plans.
The first consists, as before, of the main oblong building, with two
wings or towers attached to it, but, instead of being placed at the
diagonally opposite corners as in the Z plan, they are both projected
from one side. The object of this arrangement probably was to produce
a symmetrical design, a desire for symmetry being now a marked feature
in the architecture of the period, and considered of more importance than
the superior power for defence of the Z plan. Of this arrangement
Pitreavie and Magdalensf are good examples, and others will be found
in the following volumes. It will be observed that in Cowan's Hospital,
Stirling, the resemblance of the plan to the letter E is completed by the
projection of the central tower containing the entrance doorway.
The T plan has also the old oblong block for its main body, but it
is lengthened so as to form two apartments, and a tower is placed on
one side (generally about the middle), which contains the entrance
doorway and a staircase arranged so as to provide a separate access to
* Vol. II. p. 205. t Vol. 11. p. 229. J Vol. ir. pp. 543, 546.
MODERN REQUIREMENTS 35 INTRODUCTION
each of the two rooms on every floor. This is evidently a step in the
direction of the open dwelling-house, as compared with the defensible
tower.* Other modifications of the traditional plans will be noticed
as we proceed ; but in course of time these, too, were gradually departed
from, and double blocks, having central passages with rooms on each
side, which were necessarily lighted fi-om windows on one side only, as
in modern houses, were adopted.
As the circumstances and causes which had given rise to the keep
plan and its various modifications changed and ceased to operate, so the
expedients required to meet the defensive requirements of the diflferent
periods gradually disappeai'ed, and only the arrangements available for
modern open intercourse survived. Thus the Z plan was soon abandoned,
while the L plan, the T plan, and the courtyard plan have continued in
use till modern times.
Improvements in the interior arrangements and designs were soon
introduced. Almost all the houses designed on the above plans were
now provided with a wide wheel staircase leading up to the first or hall
floor, and sometimes rising as high as the second floor, of which the
finest example occurs at Fyvie (Vol. ii. p. 351). Numerous turret stairs
were likewise introduced to give private access to the separate bedrooms,
so as to avoid having to pass through one room in order to reach another.
In the earlier houses of this, as of the previous periods, the principal
apartments are invariably placed upon the first floor, the ground floor
being vaulted and utilised as cellars and stores. Encroachments were
now gradually made upon this arrangement, and the domain of the cellars
was invaded, first by the kitchen and its ofiices, and finally, in consequence
of the demand for increased accommodation, by the livmg rooms of the
house. Thus we find at Argyll's Lodging in Stirling,! Magdalens House,
and elsewhere, the hall and other apartments are placed upon the ground
floor, and the cellars are greatly curtailed in extent. This formed another
step towards modern arrangements.
Before the basement floor came to be thus interfered with, it was
almost an invariable practice to set apart one of the cellars as a wine
and spirit store ; and in order to enable the proprietors of the house to
maintain complete control over this cellar, a small stair was always
constructed in the thickness of one of the walls, leading to it from the
hall. Supplies could thus be brought from the cellar to the hall under
the master's eye without the necessity of opening the principal cellar
door or of admitting any one without proper authority, These wine
cellars with their small private stairs communicating with the hall are
visible in almost every plan, whatever the size of the castle or mansion,
* See Gardyne, Megginch, Cardarroch, in Vol. ii., and numerous examples in
the succeeding pages.
t Vol. II. pp. 417, 545.
INTRODUCTION 36 ENGLISH INFLUENCE
till towards the close of the fourth period, when the cellars were done
away with and the space occupied by them was devoted to family
apartments. The cellars and store-rooms were no longer required for
victualling the castle or mansion, as the days when it might be called on
to stand a siege were now over.
The "keep" mansions of all the above varieties of plan were carried
to a great height as a simple method of supplying additional rooms. The
turrets were frequently enlarged so as to form small apartments, while in
some instances, such as Earl Patrick's palace at Kirkwall, they are so
designed that they may be almost regarded as angle bow windows.
Indeed, had the Renaissance and the English influence not supervened,
it seems from the above and similar designs of the period that Scottish
architecture would have worked into a characteristic domestic style in
which most of its picturesque features would have been preserved, while
its rude and warlike elements would have been gradually dropped. Even
as events turned out a considerable step was made in this direction, and
in mansions such as Argyll's Lodging, Stirling ; Kelly Castle, Fifeshire ;
Auchans, Ayrshire ; Fountainhall, Midlothian, and many others, we see
indications of what the style might have come to, when simplified and
domesticated.*
The growing taste and softening of manners are further marked by
the improvement in the comfort and adornment of the interiors. At
Huntly Castle we have bow windows after the English pattern, a new
feature in Scotland. At Earl's Hall, Crathes, and Pinkie, long gallei'ies
with decorated ceilings, also imitated from the English mansion, are intro-
duced, and in almost all, as the seventeenth century advanced, the walls
are finished with wooden panellings, relieved with pilasters and other
Renaissance decorations, and the ceilings are ornamented with plaster
panelling and ornaments, f
There can be no hesitation in ascribing much of this interior decora-
tion to the English influence after the Union of the Crowns, while a
certain proportion is also due to the constant intercourse and commercial
relations with the Netherlands. To the latter we are certainly indebted
for the quaint paintings in ceilings and panels, which were now becoming
common (see Glamis Castle, Kellie Castle, &c.), and it is well known that
Jameson, the "father of Scottish painters," studied in Antwerp under
Rubens in the beginning of the seventeenth century.
* For further details in connection with this subject see the introduction to the
fourth period, in the following volume.
t See Moray House, Vol. ii. pp. 533, 534 ; Carnock Castle, Vol. IL p. 495 ;
Wintoun House, Vol. ii. pp. 522, 524 ; Rowallan House, Vol. ii. pp. 379, 380.
SCOTTISH STYLE IN CHURCHES — 37 INTRODUCTION
CHURCHES AND MONUMENTS IN THE
SCOTTISH STYLE.
Although it would be entirely beyond the scope of this work to
attempt to include a general account of the Ecclesiastical and Monu-
mental Art of Scotland in our description of the Castellated and Domestic
Architecture of the country, still there exist some examples of churches
and monuments containing such striking illustrations of the Scottish style
that the exposition of the subject would be incomplete without some notice
of them. These serve to show how native to the soil the Scottish style was,
and how naturally it adapted itself to every kind of structure in the land.
It has already been observed that in the earliest period of our style, where
any signs of ornament exist in the castles, as, for instance, at Bothwell,
Kildrummie, Dirleton, &c., the details correspond with those of the Gothic
architecture of the churches, as indeed was universally the case at that
time all over Christendom. During the second period we saw that the barons
and laity generally were too much impoverished to think much of orna-
ment ; but where it does occur, the same tendency to imitate ecclesias-
tical details continues, as, for example, in fireplaces, aumbries, &c. In
the third period (fifteenth century), when the style of ornament became
more distinctly Scottish in character, we find that the process began to be
reversed, and that many features of our civil style are gradually intro-
duced into the ecclesiastical edifices, where they mingle with the Gothic
forms {ante, p. 27). This process is further continued as we progress,
until, in the fourth period, the application of the details of domestic
architecture to ecclesiastical buildings becomes common, and Gothic
features gradually disappear from our churches and monuments. These
finally assume the style of architecture of the houses and castles of the
period, and become entirely Scottish in design. Thus, in the gateways of
Arbroath* and Dunfermline Abbey, may be seen the intermingling of
castellated with ecclesiastical elements at an early period ; and it has
been indicated above how the corbels, turrets, crow-steps, and other cas-
tellated features gradually found their way into the ecclesiastical edifices.
It is in the later churches, however, that the adoption of domestic
elements becomes general, nearly every church of the fifteenth and six-
teenth centuries being distinguished by its crow-stepped gables and cor-
belled and embattled parapets, precisely in the style of the castles and
mansions. The towers, like those of Dunblane and Dunfermline, already
referred to {ante, p. 28), are further made to resemble castles by the addi-
tion of corbelled and embrasured parapets with bartizans at the angles.
The south porch of Linlithgow Church, with its corbelled oriel and crow-
stepped gable, has a still more domestic aspect (Fig. 6) ; while the central
tower of Melrose shows a curious though elegant mixture of features,
* Vol. I. p. 561.
INTRODUCTION
— 38
CASTELLATED FEATURES
Fio. 6.— Linlithgow Cliurch. Porch.
IN CHURCHES
39
INTRODUCTION
derived partly from the Ecclesiastical and partly from the Domestic
styles (Fig. 7).
Some of the examples to be subsequently adduced, such as the west
front and tower of the Greyfriars at Stirling, the towers of Pittenweem
and Anstruther in Fifeshire, Fenwick in Ayrshire, and others in different
parts of the country, show the spirit of the Scottish style in the free use
of corbelling, zigzag stringcourses, turrets, &c.
In the case of Dysart Church (infra) the tower has the complete
appearance of a fortified keep. At Torphichen, again, a story for a resi-
dence is built above the church, and gives it a strong resemblance to a
place of strength. In still later churches, erected after the revival of
Episcopacy in the seventeenth century, the employment of the Domestic
^"w^mm^:
Fia. 7.— Melrose. Tower.
style is very pronounced. Thus at Dairsie (infra) the corbelling of the
belfry, and the classic balustrade with which it is crowned, remind one of
the similar features at Crathes and Craigievar.
As already stated, a very prominent constructional form is adopted
in the roofing of our late churches, which no doubt they owed to the
example of the castles, viz., the barrel vaults covered with roofs of
overlapping flagstones, with which they are almost invariably finished.
The barrel vault, as we shall have abundant evidence, is universally
employed in the vaulting of the ground floor of the castles, while the
upper floors are also frequently covered with similar vaults, and the roofs
are very often composed of overlapping flagstones resting on barrel vaults,
either round or pointed. We shall also see that similar features are intro-
duced in the churches.
The gradual adoption of the Renaissance during the first quarter
of the seventeenth century in the domestic architecture of the country
INTRODUCTION — 40 — MONUMENTS
produced a marked influence on that of the churches also, and, as it
at first chiefly affected the internal finishings of the former, so in the
case of the latter it is especially observable in the fittings of the pulpits,
galleries, and similar internal departments.* At this period the erection
of sepulchral monuments in the Renaissance style took a remarkable
development throughout Europe, — a fashion which found its votaries in
Scotland also; indeed, so popular did this method of following the ancient
heathen fashion of seeking after immortality on earth become, that every
one Avho could afford it endeavoured to rear a monument to himself, on
which, surrounded with classic pomp and presided over by heathen gods
and goddesses, a record of virtues (whether his own or not) should be
handed down to posterity. Every churchyaiTl in the country bears testi-
mony to this outburst of Renaissance feeling, that of the Greyfriars at
Edinburgh being a typical example. The more wealthy and ambitious
further added " aisles " or wings to the churches, in which to exhibit and
preserve their more splendid monuments. These "aisles" were naturally
in the same style as the monuments, and both together thus helped to
impress the Renaissance upon ecclesiastical edifices. The same style soon
became general both in domestic and church architecture ; and we find
fountains, arbours, and similar structures attached to the mansions for
their adornment, which are almost identical with the sepulchral monu-
ments in the churchyards.
Of the former we have already given specimens in the fine fountains
at Pinkie House f and Dundas Castle ; J and many interesting examples
of this style of design, including a large number of sun-dials, will be
described in a later part of this work.
The monuments have already received illustration in that of M'Lellan
at Kirkcudbright ;§ and some fine specimens from Largs, Ballantrae,
Crail, and elsewhere will be given in the sequel.
* See Pitsligo, Fenwick, &c., inj'ra. J Vol. i. p. 333.
t Vol. II. p. 397. § Vol. II. p. 155.
THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND.
FIRST PERIOD.
During the century before the war of independence a considerable
number of castles seem to have existed in Scotland. But from the
facility with which these were generally taken and destroyed by King
Edward, they probably consisted chiefly of fortifications composed of
earthen mounds and wooden palisades, such as Edward himself caused
to be erected round Berwick, after he took the town. Many stone and
mortar fortresses were, however, in existence at the date of the English
invasion. Some of them, as fully explained above, were composed of
the simplest elements of the style, and consisted of a great enclosing
wall, with a fortified parapet ; while others were provided with towers
at the angles, and a few were carried out with the fine workmanship,
and provided with the numei'ous halls and other apartments within the
courtyard, which were then usual in France and England.
In Vol. I. a number of illustrations of castles in different parts of
the country exhibiting all those phases of the thirteenth-century fortress
were described. But, as above mentioned, it is chiefly in the Highlands
and Islands that examples are now to be found. In the more populous
and changeable portions of the kingdom many of the earliest castles
have doubtless been altered or removed to make room for those of later
times, but in the remoter Highlands and Islands the primitive structures
have remained longer undisturbed. This distribution of the castles of
the first period recalls to mind what happened to a still earlier form
of fortress which preceded them. It has been shown by Dr. Joseph
Anderson, in his interesting works on Celtic Art and Architecture, that
the Brochs of Scotland, although now rare in the more southern and
cultivated districts, are still very abundant in the remoter and less altered
northern counties ; and he expresses the belief that they were at one
time common over the whole land, but have been to a great extent
destroyed by the operations of the agriculturist.
The case of the thirteenth-century castles is exactly parallel. Amidst
the various struggles for existence, both with the sword and with the
FIRST PERIOD — 42 — MINGARRY CASTLE
plough, which have taken place in the more active parts of the country,
the structures most suited to the wants of the times have been preserved,
and the older disused forms have been obliterated ; while in the distant
and less changing Highlands and Islands castles, like other things, have
longer retained their origmal shape.
We shall now proceed to give some account of these ancient strengths
of the Highlands and Islands, as well as the few remaining examples
on the mainland not already described.
Of these primitive fortresses there are two which occupy important
positions at each end of the Sound of Mull, viz., Mingarry Castle, on
the Ardnamurchan coast, at the north-west end of the Sound, near the
entrance to Loch Sunart ; and Duart, at the north-east point of Mull,
where it commands the entrance to the Sound from the east.
MINGARRY CASTLE.
There is no record of the erection of this castle, but from various
indications in the structure itself it may be concluded that its original
construction dates from the thirteenth century. In later times it was
well known, having been twice occupied by James iv. (in 1493 and 1495)
when engaged in controlling the isles and receiving the submission of
the chiefs. The castle was for long occupied by the M'lans, a sept of
the Macdonalds, descended from "the good John of Isla," Lord of the
Isles, and Margaret Stewart, daughter of Robert ii. The castle was
several times besieged, and in 1644 it was taken by Oolkitto, and by him
used as a prison for a number of Covenanters.
The situation is very conspicuous, and the castle is well seen from the
Sound and from Tobermory, which is about six miles distant. Occupy-
ing, with its irregular outline, the whole of the top of an isolated rock
from 20 to 30 feet high, close to the shore, this fortress guards the
entrance from the open sea, both to the Sound of Mull and to Loch
Sunart, while it is so placed as to command a view down the greater
part of the Sound. The Point of Ardnamurchan, which is only a short
distance off to the westward, formed the division between the Norderies
and the Suderies. Mingarry thus possessed the gateway to the southern
division of the islands.
In form the structure is an irregular hexagon (Fig. 8), the rocky site
of which rises abruptly from the sea on four of its sides, and is detached
from the mainland on the remaining two sides by a deep ditch cut out of
the rock. The walls enclose a space about 65 feet from north to south,
and 53 feet from east to west. Those on the three sides next the sea are
about 6 feet in thickness, and 25 feet in height above the level of the
courtyard, while those on the three sides next the land are raised con-
siderably higher, probably both for defensive purposes, and also to
MINGARRY CASTLE
— 43 —
FIRST PERIOD
conceal the roof of the hall and other buildmgs, which it seems likely
were erected in that position.
The principal entrance was naturally in the south wall, towards the sea,
so as to give convenient access to and from the ships, which formed the
principal means of communication amongst the islands. The doorway
stands at a considerable height above the water, and is approached by rough
steps cut in the rock. The entrance, which is only 2 feet 10 inches wide,
DITCH
-^
-r-l/'' ,..
Fig. S.— Mingany Castle. Plan.
was defended by an iron gate, Avhich still exists ; and the inner wooden
door was strengthened with a strong oaken sliding bar, for which the slot
in the wall still remains, and there is a recess in the ingoing which might
contain arrows or other weapons for the use of the sentinel. Within
the enceinte the principal residence was no doubt constructed on the
north or landward side, where the wall was sufficiently high to allow
of a building several stories in height, and where several very early
FIRST PERIOD
— 44
MINGARRY CASTLE
MINGARRY CASTLE ^ — 45 FIRST PERIOD
pointed loopholes or windows are visible on the exterior of the wall.
The original structure would therefoi-e occupy very much the same
position as the present one (shown by hatched lines). The latter,
however, is probably an erection of last century. It is three stories in
height, and had a scale staircase and large modern windows and fireplaces.
The hatched walls at the sides also indicate ofiices and outhouses, appar-
ently of the same date. The width of these places, which otherwise
would have been very narrow, especially on the east side, has been
increased by hollowing out the lower part of the ancient thick walls to
the depth of 2 or 3 feet (see Plan) — the upper part of the wall above the
excavation being sustained by strong wooden beams. The two small wall-
chambers or garde-robes in the east and west walls seem to be the only
original recesses in the walls. The erections on the west side have been
two stories high, and contained apartments on the upper floor and
cellars beneath. The offices on the east side seem to have been stables
or byres.
In the north-west angle of the courtyard, an outside stair (the solid
under-building of which still remains) led up to the battlements, having a
landing for access to the parapet walk on the lower walls, and being then
continued to the higher level of the north wall, as shown. Beneath this
staircase was the postern or landward door, with its long narrow ingoing.
This would originally communicate with the mainland by means of a
wooden biidge across the fosse, although in more recent times it has been
supplanted by a stone bridge.
The walls of this castle have a very ancient appearance, and the idea
of antiquity is strengthened by the form of the loopholes or windows
above referred to, which are evidently original, though now built up
internally. These, as seen in view of the north side (Fig. 9), are all
narrow openings with pointed arches and plain splays, similar in style
to those at DunstafFnage and Duart. The walls at the parapet have all
the appearance at first sight of having been armed with wooden hoardings
— owing to the number of square apertures like those formed for the
reception of short wooden beams for their support. But a closer examina-
tion leads to the conclusion that these apertures have simply been
gutters (without projecting gargoyles) to carry ofi" the water from the
parapet walk. Those over the postern seem, however, to be exceptional,
and probably carried a breteche, to which the larger openings in the
parapet at this point gave access, for the defence of the doorway below.
The remains of the crenellations of the parapet are still observable, as
well as long loops in the merlons on the west side. The upright loops
under the level of the parapet walk on the north side were probably
intended to allow of shooting downwards from the parapet into the
ditch below. It will be observed that the angles of the enceinte, even
where these are very obtuse, are all rounded, and three of them are
FIRST PERIOD
46 —
DUART CASTLE
crowned with angle turrets. The latter are not supported in the usual
manner on continuous courses of corbelling, but rest on single boldly
projected corbels, which would leave the space between them open and
available for defensive purposes.
We have here undoubtedly one of the primitive castles of the
Western Islands. The general plan of the enceinte — the small doorways
— the narrow windows with their pointed arches, similar to those at
Duart and DunstafFnage, all indicate a date as old as the thirteenth
century. The parapet seems also to be of the same date, and the angle
turrets have a very simple and original appearance. It is possible,
however, that the parapet may have been reconstructed and the turrets
added in the fourteenth century. They have been further altered in
later times to suit firearms.
DUART CASTLE, Argyllshire.
This massive ruin occupies a very prominent position at the north-
east angle of the island of Mull, and commands the entrance to the
Fio. 10.— Duart Castle. View from North-East.
Sound from the east. It was for long the stronghold of the principal
branch of the Macleans, but the history of its erection is unknown.
DUART CASTLE
FIRST PERIOD
The earliest notice of the castle is in 1390. Its most prominent feature
from a distance is the great oblong keep, 63 feet long by 46 feet wide
(Fig. 10), with high and massive walls varying from 10 to 15 feet in thick-
ness, which towers above the lofty and precipitous site. On the north and
west sides the walls of the keep are close to the edge of the rock, there
being just room enough left at the north side to permit of a passage to
the entrance doorway, which is placed there. On the east of the keep is
the courtyard (Fig. 11), enclosed on the south and east sides with
a sreat wall of enceinte, from 6 to 10 feet thick, and still about
30 feet high. Beyond this the castle was further protected by a deep
ditch cut in the rock, of which traces still remain.
D I T C
Fig. 11. -Duart Castle. Plan,
What the age of this building may be it would be difficult to determine
but for the analogy of others of the same description. Castles of some
kind no doubt occupied important strategic points such as this in the
Western Islands from a very early date. Of the existing structure the
primitive portion undoubtedly consisted of the great wall of enceinte
enclosing a courtyard, 80 feet by 65 feet. This fortress would thus cor-
respond in design with other rude castles of the first period, such as
Mingarry, Castle Roy, and Kinclaven.
The keep of Duart is of a diflferent style from the wall of enceinte,
and is clearly an addition of the second period, its construction being
exactly similar to that of the other large keeps of the period on the
FIRST PERIOD
— 48
DUART CASTLE
mainland, such as Dundonald in Ayrshire, and Drum in Deeside. The
keep has in this case, as in many others in the West, been added to
the primitive wall of enceinte. The entrance gateway to the courtyard
(Fig. 12) is in the centre of the south wall. The original opening was
6 feet wide, surmounted with a plain pointed arch splayed on the angle.
This has been reduced at a late time by partly building up the opening,
when also a porch or gate-house was added. Surrounding the interior
of the courtyard on the east and north sides are the remains of a
mansion, apparently of the seventeenth century.
Returning to the keep, the original doorway, which has a round
arched head, was on the first floor, at some height above the level of the
rock outside. The sill has, however, been cut down to suit the new levels
Fig. 12. — Duart Castle. View from South-East.
of the floors, which have evidently been altered when the later additions
were made in the courtyard. The keep seems originally to have had a
basement story, but apparently the floor has been lowered (at the same
time that the door sill was cut down, as above mentioned), and the base-
ment may then have been filled up. This could now only be ascertained
by excavation.
The windows on the existing ground floor have the deep round-
arched recesses with stone seats and small openings for light usual in the
fourteenth-century keeps. The floor of these window recesses is con-
siderably above the existing level of the keep floor, showing that the
latter has been lowered, as already noticed. The eastern wall is of the
great thickness of 15 feet. This probably arises from the east wall of
the keep having been built against the older west wall of enceinte,
DUART CASTLE
— 49 —
FIRST PERIOD
which has been preserved and heightened along with the east wall of
the keep. This view is supported by the fact that there are chambers
in the upper or raised portion of this wall (not now accessible, however),
while there do not appear to have been any on the lower floors. The
walls at the north-west angle are further strengthened with a great
buttress, which is carried up about one half the height of the building
(Fig. 10). The access to the upper floors and the parapet is by a single
narrow wheel -stair in the east wall, the door to which was (like that
of the keep) strengthened with a stout
sliding bar. The upper floors were of
wood, the corbels which supported the
beams being still visible in the walls.
The top of the walls, which formed
the original parapet walk, is now a
broad platform, well defended from the
weather by a coating of cement. There
are indications of a corbelled bartizan
having existed at the north-west angle,
and the other angles were probably all
provided with similar defences, having
a crenellated parapet between them,
similar to that, for instance, of Doune
Castle.
The alterations above referred to in
the keep, and the extensions in the
courtyard, seem to have been executed
in the seventeenth century. The lat-
ter consist, on the north side, of a two-
story buUding 48 feet long and 14 feet
wide internally. The entrance doorway
is in the centre, and is surmounted with
a shield (Fig. 13), which no doubt con-
tained the arms of the M 'Leans, but
the carving is now too far decayed to
be intelligible. The floors here have
been entirely of wood, and there has been no vaulting.
A straight stone staircase cut out of the west end of this building
leads from the principal courtyard to the small open court opposite the
entrance to the keep. The passage has been defended with a door. In
this small courtyard there have evidently been some latrines with
shoots at the north-west angle. The northern wall of the north addition,
although not of the same great thickness as those on the east and south,
is apparently very old, from the small loopholes, with pointed arches
similar to those at Dunstaffhage and Mingarry, which occur in it. It
Pig. 13.— Duart Castle. Doorway.
FIRST PERIOD 50 DUART CASTLE
was not necessary that this wall should be so thick as the others, the
castle being unassailable on the north side, owing to the precipitous rock
immediately beneath it. Access to the upper floor was obtained by the
circular staircase jutting out to the north, which also contains a window
with a pointed arch.
The building on the east side of the courtyard is probably of older
date than that on the north, but it possesses almost no distinctive
features to fix its age. The basement contains four vaulted cellars,
two of them being each provided with a small window. The doors and
windows next the courtyard are round arched. The entrance to the
northmost cellar has been built before the addition of the north wing,
thus showing that the east wing is the older of the two. Above these
cellars there has seemingly been a great hall with four large windows
looking to the east, of which the ingoings are still visible. These have
been cut through the original thick wall of enceinte. The entrance to
this hall has probably been by some kind of outer stair in the open space
at the south end. At the north end the north wall is curved out to a
point to prevent any passage round the rock at the foot of the walls.
A blunt edge is thus formed like the outer face of a buttress, which is
surmounted by a large round turret with entrance from the hall on the
first floor. The north gable is further made of great thickness and
contains wall-chambers. The walls of enceinte all round have evidently
been defended with a crenellated parapet. Some oval shot-holes have
been inserted in the south-east angle at a late date.
From the above description it will be evident that Duart has certainly
been one of the most extensive and powerful of the castles of the "West, and
it belonged to a family who held a prominent place in the annals of the Isles.
The founder of the House of Duart was Lauchlan M'Lean, surnamed
Lubanach, who married, in 1366, Margaret, daughter of the first Lord
of the Isles.
The ancient walls of enceinte no doubt formed the castle previous
to that time, and it is not improbable that the keep was erected by
Lubanach, with whose date its style exactly corresponds. The family
continued to flourish, and obtained extensive possessions both in the
Isles and on the mainland, and M'Lean, in addition to Duart, became
heritable keeper of a number of castles. In the " Account of the Clan
M'Lean by a Seneachie," it is stated that " Hector M6r was the founder
of that noble addition to Duart Castle called the Great Tower. He lived
altogether more like a noble of our own day than a feudal baron." This
was in the middle of the sixteenth century. It seems more likely that the
alterations on the keep above referred to were carried out by Hector M6r,
and he may also have built the earlier part of the additions. Hence his
name has come by tradition to be connected with the "Great Tower."
The latter, however, bears all the marks of a second-period keep, while the
KISMULL CASTLE — 51 FIRST PERIOD
later erections are in the style of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries
throughout Scotland.
In the sixteenth century the royal authority began to be practically
felt in the islands, but insurrections and feuds continued to be endless.
"When James vi. found himself backed with the power of England he
took stronger steps to ensure order. In 1608 Lord Ochiltree was de-
spatched with a naval force to receive the submission of the chiefs. The
castle of Duart was delivered up to him by Hector M'Lean, to whose
keeping, however, it was again entrusted on his promise to surrender
it when required. The Privy Council now held the chiefs well in hand.
They were required to keep order in their domains, and were held
responsible for any outrages. They had to appear annually before the
Privy Council, and also to exhibit a certain number of their kinsmen.
Duart had to produce four, which was a large number, and marked his
importance. The chiefs were prohibited from maintaining in their
households more than a certain proportion of gentlemen according to
their rank. Duart was allowed eight such retainers, being the largest
number sanctioned. They were also required to reside at certain fixed
places, and, where necessary, to build " civil and comelie " houses or
repair those damaged, and to occupy themselves with farming. Each
chief was restricted to one birling or galley of sixteen or eighteen oars ;
and the quantity of wine allowed in each household was strictly limited —
Duart's allowance being four tuns per annum, the largest sanctioned to
any chief.* From these regulations and other incidents it is evident
that Hector M'Lean of Duart at that time occupied a foremost place
in the islands, and it seems very probable that the enlargement of the
castle by the buildings on the north was carried out under him and his
son Lachlan, who in 1631 attended Court and was created a Nova Scotia
Baronet. He died at Duart in 1669. The lintel of the doorway of the
north range bears initials which seem to be S. L. M., for Sir Lachlan
M'Lean, and the date 1633. The style of architecture accords with that
of the period on the mainland.
KISMULL CASTLE, t
Island op Barra, Outer Hebrides, Inverness-shire.
This very interesting castle was the ancient stronghold of the Mac-
neills of Barra. It stands on an islet in Castlebay, on the south coast
of the island of Barra, in the Outer Hebrides. The structure is of
* See Gregory's History of the Highlands.
t The Plan of this castle is completed from measurements made by Mr. Donald
M'Lean, schoolmaster, Castlebay, who has also kindly furnished particulars from
which the description is partly written.
FIRST PERIOD
52 —
KISMULL CASTLE
the same primitive type as the castles in the Sound of Mull and on the
mainland, and shows that the same influences which produced the latter
were also in operation in the remoter islands. In the fourteenth centuiy
Barra, along with other domains, was restored by David ii. to Ronald,
son of Roderick M'Alan, who had followed Baliol, but who, along with
John of the Isles, was pardoned by the king in 1344, with a view to
securing the aid of the islanders in his intended wars with England.
In 1427 Roderick Macmurchan Macneill obtained a charter of the island
of Barra from the Lord of the Isles, and it continued thereafter in that
family. They were followers of M'Lean of Duart, while the Macneills
Fig. 14.— Kismull Castle. Plan.
of Gigha, a different branch of the same clan, adhered to Macdonald of
Isla. The latter Macneill was in 1472 keeper of Castle Swin under
the Lord of the Isles.
As above mentioned the castle of Kismull is of the type of the
first period, and consisted originally of an enclosing wall of an irregular
outline (Fig. 14) following the shape of the rocky site, so that at full
tide the whole of the island outside the walls was covered with water.
At a later period a keep tower has been added at the south-east angle
of the enclosure, in the same way as a similar structure was added at
Duart and many of the ancient fortresses of the first period.
KISMULL CASTLE
53 —
FIRST PEKIOD
FIRST PERIOD — 54 KISMULL CASTLE
The castle is of considei'able size, measuring about 100 feet in diameter.
The principal entrance to the courtyard was on the south-east side, where
a door is still visible (Fig. 15), though built up, surmounted by a machico-
lated defence at the parapet. Like the doors to Mingarry and EUan-
Tirrim, this one is very narrow. Opposite the south wall a narrow
creek in the rock, defended by a wall from the waves, is considered to
have been the harbour or dock for the chief's galley. Externally the
walls present an appearance very similar to those of Mingarry and
Duart, being solidly built with rubble stones and mortar. The angles
have a sharp arris at the base, but the northern angle (at N on Plan)
is rounded as it ascends, and becomes a turret containing a small
platform or sentinel's stance on top. Below this is what is called
"the dungeon," there having probably been two apartments in the
height of the tower formed by rounding the angle, — the lower one of
which may have been a prison, while the upper one was a guard-room.
The stones which covered the platform or roof of the latter still partly
exist. A ruined stair leads to the upper chamber and the sentinel's
stance. There are two windows or loops for defence in the upper
chamber. The walls of the enceinte are four feet in thickness on the
north and west, and 7 feet thick on the east side, which is nearest the
land, and about 50 feet in height. A parapet walk goes round the top,
and the parapet, which is 18 inches in thickness, has been crenellated.
A number of holes are visible all round the outside at the level of the
parapet walk. These, like the similar apertures at Mingarry, are evidently
gutters or gargoyles to run the water off the walk.
The wall on the north-west (Fig. 16) presents two rounded projections,
which seem to have been embryo towers somewhat like those of Dunstaff-
nage, introduced as points of vantage from which the curtains might be
defended. Within the enceinte, a number of buildings have been erected
at later dates for residential purposes. These have extended all round
the walls, but they are now almost completely ruined. The portion at
the western angle is best preserved. It shows a building two stories in
height, with square doors and windows and crow-stepped gables. This
range has apparently been divided into a number of apartments on the
ground floor, each having a separate door from the courtyard. The width
of the range is 18 to 19 feet. Each floor has a fireplace in the south-west
gable, and these are the only fireplaces visible in the whole structure.
There was also an attic floor, as is apparent from a door through the
upper part of the central gable. In the open space between the gable of
above building and the south-west Avail is one of the two wells which
supplied the castle with fresh water ; the other was in the centre of the
courtyard, but is now filled up, and is no longer visible. That at the
south-west angle is enclosed with a wall and partly covered with large
stones. It is still 10 feet deep, although to some extent filled up with
KISMULL CASTLE
55 —
FIRST PERIOD
rubbish, and contains fresh water. This is certainly a somewhat remark-
able circumstance, and the existence of this spring was doubtless one of
the inducements which led to the adoption of the island as the site for
the castle.
The keep occupies the south-east angle of the enceinte. It
measures 29 feet by 27 feet 8 inches, and is carried up from a broadly-
splayed or battered base. The entrance door is in the north side, towards
the interior of the courtyard, and is placed on the level of the first floor,
so that it could only be entered by means of a ladder, or possibly by a
moveable bridge from the parapet walk. There are remains of two stone
stairs which led up to this door from the courtyard, but these are doubtless
Fig. 16.-Kismull Castle. View from North- West.
additions of a much later date. From the first or entrance floor, a stair,
3 feet 3 inches wide, runs up in the thickness of the wall to the second
floor, whence it is continued to the third or top floor. A similar stair
descends in the thickness of the wall to the basement, but it is now
choked with rubbish. The walls are 6 feet in thickness, and have been
pierced with two loops on the ground floor. On the first floor there
are two recesses, 7 feet high, with small windows, and larger arched
openings at the stair landings. Very few and small window openings are
now visible externally. The basement probably, as usual, contained the
stores. The hall would occupy the first floor, and above this would be
the chief's private apartment, which has windows in three sides.
FIRST PERIOD
— 56
ELLAN-TIRRIM CASTLE
The gutter-holes, which were formed at the level of the original
parapet, with their drip-stones, are still observable, but the parapet has
been raised at a subsequent date so as to provide an additional story. In
the upper story there occurs, on the north side of the keep, a projecting
bartizan immediately over the entrance door, with a machicolation for its
defence. A similar bartizan (as already noticed) is placed at the parapet
of the wall of enceinte adjoining the north-east angle of the keep, for the
protection of the entrance which existed in the rounded angle of the wall
at this point. The doorway would also in this position be masked and
protected by the keep. It is observable that the angles of the enceinte
have been raised higher than the curtains, but they do not form projecting
bartizans.
CASTLE OF ELLAN-TIRRIM, Inverness-shirb.
This ruinous and picturesque pile occupies the whole of the irregular
platform on the top of an isolated rock nearly surrounded by the waters
Fig. 17.— Ellaii-Tirrim Castle. Plan
of Loch Moidart, at the mouth of the River Shin. It was one of the castles
on the estates of the Lady Amie M'Ruari, the fii'st wife of John of the
ELLAN-TIRRIM CASTLE
— 57 —
FIRST PERIOD
FIRST PERIOD — 58 — CASTLE SWIN
Isles, and is said to have been built by her after her separation from her
husband, in the middle of the fourteenth century. (See also Borve.) But
although doubtless occupied, and pei'haps added to, by her, it is evidently
a structure of an earlier time, and corresponds in its main features with
the other castles of the first period in the isles. The wall of enceinte
(Fig. 17), like that of Mingarry and Kismull, is of an irregular form, being
constructed so as to fit the site on which it stands. This wall is for the
most part ancient, but the north-eastern portion, which is thinner than
the remainder, has possibly been rebuilt. The entrance doorway is in the
north wall. It is small, like those of Mingarry and Kismull, and has a
long narrow passage through the wall, while a wide machicolation corbelled
out on the exterior defends it from above.
The courtyard is irregular in its levels, the northern being several feet
lower than the southern portion, and has been divided into sections with
walls, which probably had steps leading from one to the other. An out-
side stair in the inner side of the west wall led to the battlements. The
gargoyles from the parapet walk are visible in the old part of the wall of
enceinte (Fig. 18), and are similar to those of Mingarry and Kismull.
The habitable buildings are ranged along the south and east walls ; none
of these have the appearance of being very ancient. As is the case with
most of the Western castles of the first period, a keep has been added to
the great wall of enceinte at a later date. In this instance the keep is
situated at the south-west angle of the enclosure. It is a square struc-
ture, crowned with turrets at the angles, which have the corbelling of the
fourth period. The apartment in the south-east angle seems to have
been a kitchen, having a well under one of the walls and an oven in the
angle. That to the north of it was probably the hall.
In later times Castle-Tirrim became one of the fortresses of the Clan
Ranald. It is said to have been occupied by Cromwell's troopers, and
was finally burned in 1715. But its old walls of the thirteenth century
still remain almost intact, and as the structure is well taken care of they
may still survive for centuries to come, to perpetuate the memory of the
unfortunate Lady Amie.
CASTLE SWIN, Argyllshire.
A remote fortress which stands on a promontory near the mouth of Loch
Swin, a long and picturesque arm of the sea, on the west side of Knapdale.
It is one of the great first-period castles, of which so many are found in the
West Highlands and Islands. The tradition regarding its origin is that it
was built by Swin, or Sweyn, a Prince of Denmark, in the eleventh cen-
tury. Possibly there may have been some primitive Danish fort on the site.
CASTLE SWIN
59
FIRST PERIOD
which gave its name to the locality ; but the existing stx'ucture has all the
characteristics of the other thirteenth-century fortresses of the West. The
chief feature is, as usual, a great quadranglular enclosing Avail, 6 to 7 feet
in thickness (Fig. 19), containing a space 70 feet by 50 feet. The wall is
strengthened at the angles and in the centre of each side with broad
buttresses in a manner not unlike a Norman building; indeed, this is
the nearest approach to the " Norman " style of castle building to be met
with amongst our Scottish castles. The projection is somewhat greater at
Fig. 19.— Castle Swin. Plan.
the south-east than the other angles, so as to admit of a wall-chamber
(probably a guard-room) on the upper floor. A garde-robe is formed in
a similar position in the north-west angle, where the wall is of considerable
height towards the exterior. The gateway (Fig. 20) is in the usual style
of a number of these primitive structures, such, for instance, as Duart,
Skipness, and Inverlochy. The arch is semi-circular, and the opening
6 feet 6 inches wide. It is formed in a slight projection from the face of
the wall, and has a long bar-hole for a strong bolt. The wall is thickened
on the inside so as to make the entrance passage fully 10 feet deep, and
FIRST PERIOD
60
CASTLE SWIN
also to enable a wide platform to be constructed over the gateway for
its defence. The approach to this platform was by an open staircase,
of which some portions still remain. At a later date additions have
been made to the original fortress at the north-east angle and along the
west side. The former consists of a rectangular keep, such as we have
seen was frequently added to these primitive fortresses, as, for example,
at the castles of Barra and Duart. In this instance the keep is built
on the outside of the enceinte, not within it, as in the latter castles.
It measures 45 feet by 36 feet, and the walls are 7 feet in thickness.
Owing to the slope of the site the first floor of the keep has been nearly
on the level of the ground within the original castle, thus admitting of
Fig. 20.— Castle Swin. View from South-West.
a basement floor beneath, which seems to have contained the kitchen and
bakehouse. The oven and the water-supply spout are still in existence, as
well as a dwarf wall in the centre, and a set-off round the outer walls to
support the joists of the floor above. The first floor, no doubt, contained
the hall, with a lord's room above, and bedrooms in the roof. The windows
(Fig. 21) are all narrow loops with plain splays, similar in style to those
of Dunstaffnage, Duart, and Mingarry. This keep is evidently of very
old date, from the early character of its details above referred to — the
narrow window-openings, with their pointed arches and plain splays,
being of the same style as those we have already noticed at several of the
primitive fortresses, while they also correspond with the similar features
of the simple churches of the district dating from the thirteenth century.
CASTLE SWIN
— 6]
FIRST PERIOD
There can, however, be no doubt about the fact of the keep being an
addition to tlie original wall of enceinte, as the buttresses of the latter,
which are adjacent to the keep, have evidently been completed so as to
form the exterior of the enceinte, and have afterwards been incorporated
with the keep ; but their original form and details have not been altered,
and may still be seen. This keep may therefore be regarded as one of the
earliest examples of that class of structure of which specimens of all dates
up to the fourth period occur, added to the simple wall of enceinte of
these primitive castles. The building at the west side consists of a
round tower 25 feet in diameter at the north-west angle (Fig. 22),
and a rectangular structure adjoining it. These extend to the verge
Fig. 21.— Castle Swin. View from North-East.
of the rock next the sea, and would strengthen the castle at this
point. The round tower is well furnished with loopholes, and was,
no doubt, crowned with a machicolated parapet. It commands a good
view of the loch and would form a useful post of observation. There
is a deep and carefully built and vaulted pit in the basement, with a
drain led from it to the sea, and an aperture in the floor of the tower
above. This no doubt formed the entrance to the prison or dungeon in
the vault beneath from the guard-room in the tower. The adjoining
square building may have comprised the quarters for the garrison.
In the large courtyard some foundations of walls are observable, but
they do not appear to be very old. There is also a well in the north-east
angle.
FIRST PERIOD
— 62 —
CASTLE SWIN
SKIPNESS CASTLE
— 63
FIRST PERIOD
The history of this castle is almost a blank. Like the other similar
fortresses of the West it was probably erected by royal command in the
thirteenth century. It afterwards became one of the castles of the
Lord of the Isles. In 1472 it was in the keeping of Hector Torquil
Macneill, the founder of the Macneills of Gigha, who held it for the
Lord of the Isles. In 1481, after the resignation of the Earl of Ross
and the insurrection of his son Angus, the keepership of Castle Swin,
now again a royal castle, was granted, along with lands in Knapdale,
formerly held by the Lord of the Isles, to Colin, first Earl of Argyll.
Like so many other castles in the West, Swin was destroyed by Colkitto
in the seventeenth century.
SKIPNESS CASTLE, Argyllshire.*
This extensive and well-preserved fortress is situated at the north-
eastern point of Kintyre, opposite the opening between Bute and Arran,
where the waters of Kilbrannan Sound, Loch Fyne, and the Sound of Bute
Fig. 23.— Skipness Castle. View from South-East,
all meet. It stands on a level platform, reached by a gently sloping path,
about 250 yards distant from the sea, from which it has a most imposing-
aspect, with its embattled keep rising proudly above its broad and massive
walls and towers (Fig. 23). The castle was, in all probability, surrounded
* We are indebted, for much valuable information regarding this castle, to R. C.
Graham, Esq. of Skipness, who also kindly allowed us to examine a complete set of
plans and elevations of the building prepared by Professor Middleton of Cambridge.
FIRST PERIOD
64
SKIPNESS CASTLE
Pig. 24.— Skipness Castle. Plan ol Ground Flooi, and Section through Keep and Courtyard.
SKIPNESS CASTLE
65 —
FIRST PERIOD
by a ditch and mound. The present road along the north side seems to
occupy the site of the former, and probably the grovind inclining upwards
from the road is part of the sloping glacis.
During the building in 1880 of the present house (which stands near
the castle), "the workmen," Mr. Graham states, "found a soft piece of
ground different from the surrounding soil, and had to dig into it to get
a solid bottom for the foundation of the building."
Mr. Graham believes this to have been a part of the moat. At a
P"£iCULUS
Fig. 25,— Skipness Castle. Plan of First Floor.
distance of two hundred yards to the west a natural hollow forms the
channel of a small stream, into which the north and south ditches may
have debouched.
This castle (Fig. 24) resembles in its general arrangements several of
those in the islands already described belonging to the first period. It
consists of a great quadrangle surrounded with a powerful wall of enceinte,
and having a large keep in the north-east corner of a later date than the walls
of enceinte, and partly built upon them. A square tower projects outwards
from the west wall of enceinte, and another square tower is situated at
E
FIRST PERIOD
66
SKIPNESS CASTLE
the south-east corner of the enclosure. The walls of enceinte vary in
thickness from 6 feet to 8 feet 6 inches, and are about 35 feet high.
Along the south front they extend 95 feet, including the south-east tower.
The greatest length is along the east side, which measures 133 feet. The
interior of the courtyard measures about 109 feet by 66 feet.
A two-story building extended along the inside of the south curtain,
Pig. 26.— Skipness Castle, Interior of Oourt.
as shown by dotted lines on the ground plan, and adjoining the south-east
tower there was a turret stair in connection with that building, shown
also by dotted lines. This stair led to the first floor, and continued to
the straight stair shown on the first-floor plan (Fig. 25). By this stair
access was gained to the parapet walk round the walls and to upper stories
in the towers. A part of this inner wall still remains hanging out in the
air a distance of five or six feet from the top of the east curtain, and
SKIPNESS CASTLE — 67 — FIRST PERIOD
another circular mass of masonry immediately over the doorway of the
straight stair (shown by a rounded line on the first-floor plan) likewise
overhangs considerably, all as shown by the sketch in Fig. 25.
The whole of this wall and stair existed till within living memory, but
they were removed many years ago, after which some building was done
to prevent the overhanging stonework from falling.
Another range of buildings lay along the west curtain, and seems to
have been returned along the north wall in a line with the keep. This is
evident from the fact that in the inner side of these walls (the south,
west, and north) there are on the first floor wide window-openings splayed
to narrow slits at the outside, and roofed with a sconsion arch. These
slits along the west wall are from 3 to 4 inches wide and 5 feet 8 inches
high, with a square recess in the wall 7 feet 7 inches wide. Those along
the south wall are different on Plan (except the one immediately west of
the entrance), being simply splayed openings about 5 feet 7 inches wide
inside, with slits 8 inches wide by about 4 feet high ; many of them hav-
ing the crossed form frequently adopted in early castles. There seem to
have been no buildings along the inside of the east curtain.
Originally the castle had one main entrance, which still exists in the
south curtain, in the form of a projecting portcullised gateway 8 feet 9 inches
wide (Fig. 27). There was also a postern in the east wall adjoining the
keep, which is now built up. Exactly over it the indication of a window
occurs, also built up. This was possibly used for access to a hoarding
over the postern. The round arched gateway in the north curtain (see
Figs. 26 and 28) has been opened up during the later occupancy of the
building, and the door in the south-east tower, shown by white lines on
the Plan, is modern. The entrance gateway, along with the portcullis
room above it, are of considerable interest from the resemblance they bear
to the gateways of other primitive castles, such as Swin and Duart. Un-
fortunately the portcullis chamber is in a very ruinous and dilapidated
condition. The floor, which was supported by the vaulted roof of the
gateway, is gone, and the position of the portcullis slit can only be deter-
mined by the grooves in the jambs below ; while the double-arched and
ribbed roof is in a very frail condition. This roof, the vaulting of which
is of a peculiar form, is shown on the section (Fig. 24) looking from the
courtyard. In order to clearly explain this in connection with the
gateway beneath, the inner wall of the room is supposed to be removed,
and the interior of the room is drawn in strong lines.
The portcullis room, which is constructed in the thickness of the
wall (here 9 feet 9 inches), is 14 feet 2 inches long by 4 feet 10 inches
wide and 10 feet high to the apex of its arched roof. It was entered
from the first floor by a doorway now built up. Originally the front wall
of this room was no doubt difierent from what it is now, and it was prob-
ably provided with a wooden hoarding, such as that shown in the restored
FIRST PERIOD
68
SKIPNESS CASTLE
sketch (Fig. 27). It is quite evident that the masonry has been disturbed,
and the fortified features removed, possibly at the same time that the
northern arched entrance already referred to was opened out, and cer-
tainly at a time when defence was no longer of paramount importance.
The outer arch of the portcullised gateway was then altered, and a pointed
arch constructed of long thin stones, exactly similar in workmanship to
those of the north gateway, and entirely different in style from the bold,
massive, and splayed voussoirs forming the ancient inside arches, seen in
sketch (Fig. 27). When this new arch was erected, there can be little doubt
but that the wall above was taken down and rebuilt as we now see it.
-^'m^j^JtUiM,
(Present state.)
Fig. 27.— Skipncss Castle. Portciillis Gate.
(Restored.)
This castle was clearly intended to be one of uncommon strength ; but
being easily assailable by sea, and the main entrance not being strengthened
by any towers, it may be safely inferred that the gateway would be de-
fended with a wooden hoarding or a stone machicolation. In the angles
of the projection containing the portcullis room, two long narrow slits are
introduced, which command the curtains on either side, and would be
useful both for lighting the room and reconnoitring.
In this castle, as in others of the same period, there are, for the sake
of security, but few openings introduced in the lower part of the walls.
In the keep (which, however, as we shall see, is of later date than the
SKIPNESS CASTLE
69 —
FIRST PERIOD
enceinte) a single loop gave light and air to the basement. This, together
with a five-inch slit and a water-drain in the south-east tower, are the
only ancient openings discoverable in the lower walls. It is, however,
quite possible that in the south wall of enceinte there were three splayed
slits, which are shown on Plan by a recess and white dotted line, and on
the section above the inside formation of one of these openings is seen in
elevation with a round arched top ; but there is no appearance of them
outside.
Before proceeding farther it should be observed that the whole of that
portion of the castle lying to the north of the north-west tower, including
the keep, appears to be of a somewhat later date than the rest. The
Fig. 2S.— Skipness Castle. View from North- West.
original north boundary of the castle probably extended across between the
north-west tower and the keep, in the line of the south face of the latter.
The portion lying to the west of the keep was probably first erected, and this
appears to have been done at a time not very long after the construction
of the castle, as the building is in very much the same style. The windows
are, however, considerably larger and round-arched. That in the north
wall is well preserved, and is shown both internally and externally in
Figs, 26 and 28. There has also been a similar window on the first floor
in the east wall of this addition (see Figs. 25 and 26), clearly showing
that that wall was an external one. This view is supported by the fact
that the base splay which runs along the outer walls is still preserved in the
FIRST PERIOD 70 SKIPNESS CASTLE
interior of the keep, of which the wall in question forms the west side ;
while the angle quoins which still remain at the north-west angle of the
keep (see Fig. 28) show clearly that it was originally an external salient
angle. The keep has evidently been built at a later time, so as to fill up
the angle between the north addition and the original north wall, thus
rendering the walls then existing to some extent available. The north
extension was probably added for the purpose of giving a commodious
and comparatively well-lighted hall, such as soon came to be considered
necessary in all castles of any pretensions. A garde-robe is constructed
in the thickness of the north-west angle.
According to this view the original castle would be a nearly square
enclosure, with one tower at the north-west angle and another at the
south-east angle. The north-western tower has a projection of 14 feet
from the face of the wall by a breadth of 16 feet 4| inches, and enters
from the courtyard level, and also from the first-floor level, by a narrow-
pointed doorway on each. It consists of three floors altogether. This
tower, like a similar one at Rothesay Castle, seems to have contained the
latrines on the three stories, with a wide flue from each, the flues being
separated from one another by a built partition, as shown by dotted lines
on the ground floor Plan. The top of the tower would also be useful for
defensive purposes.
The allure or parapet walk on the top of the east wall (which is 7 feet
2 inches thick, and 29 feet above the ground) is in the centre of the wall,
with the remains of a parapet on both sides. The outer parapet had a
height of about 5 feet, but not much remains of the inner parapet. The
section. Fig. 24, shows this arrangement, on the west wall instead of on
the east wall, where this allure no longer exists, the east wall being now
sloped on the top and cemented to protect it from the weather.
The keep, as already mentioned, stands in the north-east angle formed
between the original north wall and the northern addition. It is oblong
on Plan, and measures 36 feet 3 inches from north to south, by 32 feet
10|^ inches from east to west ; 52 feet 4 inches from the ground to the
top of the parapet, and 62 feet to the chimney top. A turret projects
6 feet 4| inches beyond the face of the north-east angle, and has a
breadth of 11 feet 1 inch.
The ground floor of the keep is vaulted (being the only apartment
throughout the castle so treated), and enters from the courtyard. It
has no communication with the upper floors except by a hatchway in the
north-west corner of the vault. There is a recess about 7 feet wide by
3 feet deep in the north wall, carried up almost to the roof, where it is
finely arched over. This no doubt formed the ingoing of a loop, with
a shot-hole beneath opening to the north. A splay, as above mentioned
(see the Section, Fig, 24), runs all along the inside of the west
wall, which, together with the built-up window above, proves that this
SKIPNESS CASTLE
71
FIRST PERIOD
wail was once one of the outer walls of the enceinte before the keep
was built, the splay being merely the base which is seen all round the
outside of the castle. The present outside stair to the first floor (Fig. 26)
is of comparatively modern construction, being doubtless of the period
when the entrance through the north wall was made. In connection
with this stair the east wall of enceinte has been thinned off so as to
allow of a door being opened into the keep at the first floor level (see
Figs. 25 and 26).
The original entrance to the keep was undoubtedly from the allure
of the east wall of enceinte at the south-east coi-ner of the keep, where,
at a height of about 30 feet above the ground, are the marks of a door
on the outside of the keep, although no indication of it can now be
traced on the inside of the wall. The entrance was thus on the second
^, '-!--a n i n .^ — - fM
5EC0ND FLOOK
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Fig. 29.— Skipness Castle. Plans of Second and Third Floors and Battlements.
floor, as was also the case in the keep of Lochleven Castle. From this
floor a straight stair, entering by the door in the east wall, led down to
the first floor, and a wheel-stair in the north-east angle conducted to
the third floor and the battlements. There was also an outer door, as
above mentioned, giving access to the basement from the courtyard.
Each of the three upper floors (Fig. 29) consists of a single chamber
about 25 feet by 19 feet, with small closets in the projecting turret. The
recess or drain at the base, and the flues above, show that this turret
was constructed for garde-robes on the different floors. But the loops
in it being formed so as to give a view in all directions indicate that it
was also available for defence.
On the first floor the closet has pointed arched ribs, as shown by
dotted lines on Plan, and has one entrance directly from the hall, and
another from the ingoing of the window in the north wall, but the
FIRST PERIOD 72 SKIPNESS CASTLE
former is probably not original. The south window of this floor has
been enlarged to its present size in recent times. This apartment has
no special fireplace, but is provided with a flue in the thickness of the
wall over the north window, where a bx'azier or dog-grate could be
placed. A door gives access to the sti'aight stair in the east wall
leading to the second flooi', and also to the new door and outside
staircase already referred to.
A fireplace has been inserted in the second floor, and the adjoining
closet in the wall built up to allow of its introduction.
From this level a circular wheel-stair constructed of timber leads
to the floor above and to the battlements, where there is a capehouse
having a room with a fireplace and a garde-robe in the turret. It is
evident from the nature of the workmanship that this capehouse is of
much more recent construction than the keep. The latter, with its
corbelled parapet (Figs. 26 and 28), is in the style of the third period,
Fig. 30. — Skipness Castle. Plan of the Chapel.
while the capehouse and the gables of the main keep seem to have been
added in the seventeenth century.
At a distance of about 320 yards south-east from the castle, and close
to the sea, stands the chapel, which, according to Captain White in his
woi'k entitled Kintyre, is referred to in a charter of the thirteenth century
(to be quoted further on) as the Chapel of St Columba.
Around it is the graveyard which, as usual in mediaeval times, does
not extend along the north side of the sacred edifice. The chapel is
now a roofless ruin, but is otherwise fairly well preserved. It measures
(see Plan, Fig. 30) inside the walls 73 feet 6 inches from east to west
by 19 feet 1 inch from north to south, with side walls 12 feet high, and
a gable at each end. Its external dimensions are 82 feet by 27 feet,
and it is thus, according to Mr. Muir, the largest ecclesiastical structure
in Kintyre, and probably in the whole of Argyll, the cathedral of lona
alone excepted. But this is undoubtedly an error, as Dunstafihage Chapel
(Vol. I. p. 90) is considerably longer, and Captain White points out
that the church at Saddell in Kintyre is likewise larger. Mr. Muir
pronounces it to be in the advanced first pointed style which prevailed
SKIPNESS CASTLE
73
FIRST PERIOD
in Scotland during the thirteenth century. The entrance doorway is in the
south wall, 20 feet 6 inches from the west end, and in the opposite wall
there is another door, at the distance of 10 feet 11 inches from the west
end : both of these are pointed. The chancel door is also in the south wall,
12 feet 2 inches from the east gable, and is round arched. The jamb and
arch mouldings of the first mentioned doors are extremely simple, as will be
seen from the sketch section (Fig. 31) ; the other two are built up, as are
also the three eastmost windows of the south side, large family monuments
having been erected against that wall. The principal entrance, as will be
seen from the Plan, has a bar-hole inside for securing the door, an unusual
arrangement in a church. At Stobhall there is
a similar provision for security, the necessity
for which, however, is easily understood, the
church having been built at the Reformation
in connection with the old and proscribed faith,
and there being a dwelling-house attached,
entering by the same door. At Temple Church,
Midlothian, also a similar bar-hole occurs.
The windows, of which there are four on the
south side, two on the north, and one in the west
gable, are all pointed lancets. The daylight of
the side windows measures 13| inches wide by
4 feet 2 inches high, splayed inside to about 50
inches wide (Fig. 31). The east window is of
two lights with a central mullion (Fig. 32).
The daylight of each lancet is 15|- inches by
8 feet 1 1 inches high. The splays of the mullion
and the jamb mouldings do not coincide, as will be observed from Fig. 32,
which probably arises from the mullion having been renewed.
A rough recess, as if formerly a piscina or locker, exists in the south
wall at the east end. Over the west gable there has been a belfry, but it
is now quite ruinous. Beneath it is a square-headed slit, with a hole
through the wall beneath, worn vertically to the outside by the action of
the bell-chain. The copestones are all wrought on level beds as a part of
the walling, to which excellent practice we probably owe the preservation
of the gables to this day.
Mr. Muir remarks that the castle (which he, however, does not describe)
"is supposed in part to be coeval with the chapel itself." There can be
no doubt but that they are contemporary, the few and simple details of
each exactly coinciding and corresponding with those of other structures
of the same date.
Skipness Castle and the Chapel of St Columba thus form an exactly
parallel case with that of Dunstaffnage, as in both we have a chapel out-
side the castle walls, almost undoubtedly of the same period as the fortress.
Fig. 31.— Skipness Castle.
The Chapel : Details.
FIRST PERIOD
74
SKIPNESS CASTLE
From the following charter, dated 1261, it is evident that both the
chapel and castle at Skipness were in existence at that eai-ly period. The
charter which, with other information on the subject, will be found in
Captain White's work, runs thus : —
" To all the sons and the faithful of holy Mother Chvu'ch who may see
or hear this present writing, — Dufgal, the son of Syfyn, greeting, — Be it
known to your community " {i.e. the Paisley monks) " that I, in respect
of charity and out of my own pure free-will, and with assent of John, my
Fig. 32.— Skipness Castle. The Chapel : Details of East Window.
heir, have given, granted, and by this present charter of mine confirmed,
for the welfare of my soul, of my spouses Juliana and Johanna, and of
my ancestors, as well as successors, to God, S. James, and S. Mirinus of
Passelet, and to the monks now or hereafter ministering (Deo Servien-
tibus) at that same place, the right of patronage of the Church of S.
Colmanel, which is situated in my territory of Kentyr, for the purpose
of a free, pure, and perpetual almsgiving, with all pertinents, lands,
liberties, and easements (aysiamentis), which do or shall appertain to the
ACIIANDUm CASTLE — 75 — FIRST PERIOD
aforesaid church, together with the Chapel of S. Columba, which is situ-
ated close by my castle of Schepehinche (Skipness), after the decease of
Clement, rector of the same church ; to be had and held in perpetuity by
the aforesaid monks of Passelet, as freely, quietly, peacefully, and honour-
ably, and quit of all secular burden, as the aforesaid monks hold and
possess other churches by any one's gift throughout the whole kingdom of
Scotland," &c., etc.
Captain White is of opinion that the castle " may safely be referred
to the twelfth or thirteenth century, or even earlier."
From the above charter the chapel and the oldest part of the castle
were undoubtedly in existence in 1262, and, judging from their style,
they probably belong to the earlier part of the thirteenth century. As
has been already pointed out, the keep is a later building than the other
portions of the castle, and probably dates from the fifteenth century.
Skipness was originally a castle of the Macdougals, and afterwards
passed with the most of Argyll into the hands of the Campbells. Early in
the sixteenth century the famous Campbell of Cawdor, with the Captain
of Skipness, acted as the coadjutors of the Earl of Argyll in connection
therewith. In Paterson's Ayrshire Families (Vol. I. p. 290) we learn that
Sir John Montgomerie of Hassilhead, who was slain at Flodden in 1513,
left two children, one of whom, Marion, was married (third marriage) to
John Campbell of Skipnish. Her nephew, Alexander Montgomerie, the
author of the Gherrie and Slae, resided for a time at Skipness.
The same authority states that John Boyd, younger of Portincross,
after his father's death, resided at Skipness with his maternal relations,
where, about the year 1785, he died. His mother was Grizel Campbell,
only daughter of Angus Campbell, Esq., Captain of Skipness. The castle
has thus been occupied by Campbells, or their descendants, till near the
end of last century. It is now the property of R. C. Graham, Esq.
It is very satisfactory to find an important castle like this in such a
good state of preservation and so well taken care of.
ACIIANDUIN CASTLE, Lismore, Argyllshire.
The fragmentary ruins of this extensive structure (Fig. 33) occupy the
summit of a rocky conical hill, near the southern end of the island of
Lismore, in Loch Linnhe. The only tradition regarding its histoiy is that
it was the residence of the Bishop of Argyll. The see of the bishopric
was transferred in 1236 from Muchairn, on the south side of Loch Etive,
to this island. The cathedral stands about the centre of the island. It
was at one time a large church, with a full establishment of buildings
surrounding a cloister, but there now only remain some portions of the
walls and buttresses of the cathedral (converted into the parish church).
FIRST PERIOD
76 —
ACHANDUIN CASTLE
which are all carefully covered with roughcasting. Some traces of the
sacristy and chapter-house are also observable. Achanduin Castle lies
about five miles south from the cathedral. It has been a great square
enclosure (Fig. 34), measuring over 70 feet each way within the walls.
The principal entrance gateway, leading into the courtyard, was in the
centre of the north wall. From the ingoing a passage and staircase in
the thickness of the wall led to the upper floor of a tower at the north-
east angle, of which some portions still exist. Of the eastern wall the
foundations only remain. Parallel to this are also the lower portions of
an interior wall, indicating that there were buildings on this side of the
castle. A considerable part of the south wall still stands. It is 5 feet in
thickness, but without architectural features. Only a part of the west
Fig. 33.— Achauduin Castle. View from Novth-West.
wall is preserved. It contained two garde-robes, the large corbels of which
still project towards the outside. There has also been a doorway or
postern in this wall, one jamb of which is preserved, and contains a bar-
hole, while the other side has been demolished. On the outside of the
wall opposite this postern a square tower or landing is built up to the
level of the courtyard, which is 7 feet or so above that of the ground out-
side. This may be the foundation of a tower or some kind of construction
for the defence of the postern, or it may only have been a platform to
which access would be obtained from the exterior by means of a wooden
ladder. There was a landing of this description at the entrance to Mear-
naig, Dunvegan, and Ardchonnal Castles. In the north wall there occur
on the first floor the remains of two windows, shown by white lines, with
the narrow external openings and wide internal bays of the early style.
The hill all round slopes rapidly down from the castle. It is a little less
DUNVEGAN CASTLE
— 77
FIRST PERIOD
steep on the north than on the other sides, and some traces are yet observ-
able of a narrow tortuous path which wound its way amongst the rocks
up to the gateway.
Pig. 34.— Achanduin Castle. Plan.
The general character of the building indicates that it belongs to the
first period, and was probably erected in the thirteenth century, soon after
the see was transferred to Lismore.
DUNVEGAN CASTLE, Skye, Inverness-shire.
This edifice is situated on Loch Follart, on the west side of the island,
and about twenty-four miles from Portree. It was the ancient stronghold
of the chiefs of the Siol Tormod, Lords of Harris and Dunvegan, of whom
the present proprietor of the castle is the descendant and representative.
This family had from David ii. a charter for the lands of Glenelg, but
after the annexation of the Earldom of Ross to the Crown in 1476, Dun-
vegan was held under the Lord of the Isles. Prom the rules of the Privy
Council in 1616, M'Leod seems to have occupied the position next iii
importance to M'Lean of Duart — being required to exhibit three relatives
yearly to the Council, and being allowed six gentlemen in his household,
andybwr tuns of wine per annum.
The castle of Dunvegan is almost the only fortress of the old chiefs of
FIRST PERIOD
— 78 —
DUNVEGAN CASTLE
Fio. 35.— Dnnvegan Castle. Plans.
DUNVEGAN CASTLE 79 FIRST PERIOD
the isles which is still inhabited. It has in the course of its long exist-
ence undergone many changes, but its architectural history is still quite
discernible in its structure. Originally the castle seems to have consisted
of a great enclosing wall like that of Mingarry, built round the edge of a
platform of rock, surrounded with precipitous sides, and situated close to
the sea. A small sheltered bay at its base, branching off Loch Follart,
forms a natural harbour protected by the castle. The rocky site is
entii'ely detached from the mainland by what appears to be a natural
chasm, but it has probably been to some extent scarped artificially.
An ancient doorway on the south or seaward side of the rock (Fig. 35)
doubtless marks the original entrance to the fortress. From this a narrow
passage, 5 to 7 feet wide and 50 feet in length (see Plan), slopes gradually
upwards, with steps at intervals, to the platform of the rock. The door-
way has been defended with a portcullis, the grooves for which still remain
in the masoniy. Opening off the centre of the passage is a circular
vaulted well, and the passage itself was probably also arched over. Of
the original wall of enceinte, a detached portion still survives in a ruinous
state at the western point of the rock ; and the wall, 7 feet in thickness,
now forming the northern side of the castle, may have also been part of
it, but the remainder has been replaced with a low parapet.
As we have seen was the case in several of the other ancient castles in
the islands, a keep of the fourteenth-century pattern has been erected in
connection with the primitive enceinte. That of Dunvegan (tinted black
on Plan) measures 48 feet by 37 feet, with a projection of 12 feet at the
west end, which contains the guard-room and dungeon. The former is on
the first floor, nearly at the level of the hall (marked " drawing-room ").
A trap in the floor formed the only access to the dungeon, which is a square
pit about 6 feet wide (see enlarged Plan). The arrangements of the keep
were the usual ones. The ground floor consisted of vaulted cellars, the
first floor contained the hall (now converted into the drawing-room), and
the upper floors comprised the lord's apartments and bedrooms. The
ancient walls, 9 feet in thickness, with their deep window-bays, still
remain, but the external aspect of the keep has been modernised, and the
dungeon wing is carried up as a lofty tower, which, however, gives con-
siderable character and effect to the modern edifice (Fig. 36).
No account is preserved regarding the author of this keep, but it is be-
lieved that Alaister Crotach, a chief of the time of Queen Mary, carried up the
north-east angle of the walls in the form of a tower (Fig. 37), which is still pre-
served. Its architecture corresponds with that date, and it forms a picturesque
example of the same style of design as was then in use on the mainland.
The intervening portion of the castle, between this tower and the
keep, is attributed to the famous chief Rory More, who flourished in the
reign of James vi., and was by him knighted as a reward for his services
in maintaining order in this unruly region. The keep seems then to
FIRST PERIOD
— 80
DUNVEGAN CASTLE
have been abandoned and a new building erected in the above position
in the Scottish style of the period, containing vaulted apartments on
the basement, and no doubt a hall and private room on the first floor.
The parapet, with balustraded rail in the Renaissance style of that time
(a portion of which is still preserved. Fig. 37), completed the building
at the eaves, above which rose a high slated roof, containing bedrooms,
and an immense chimney. The latter features are shown in the sketch
made by Captain Grose in 1790. This part of the structure has been
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Fig. 36.— Dunvegan Castle. View from South-West.
raised two stories, and large windows cut through the lower wall, since
the above date. The south wall of this block has also been removed
(above the basement floor), and rebuilt so as to give additional width
to the dining-room and library, while several other extensions have
been made as shown on the Plans.*
* We are indebted to M'Leod of M'Leod for the Plans of the castle, and to Miss
M'Leod for veiy kindly pointing out to ns all the interesting features of the building
and its remarkable and historical relics and contents, and giving us an accoimt of its
traditional history.
DUNVEGAN CASTLE
— 81 —
FIRST PERIOD
FiG. 37.— Dunvegan Castle. View of North-East Tower.
FIRST PERIOD
82 ELLANDONAN CASTLE
According to Grose's view, a round tower connected Rory More's
structure with the ancient keep, adjoining the base of which a door is
shown with steps leading up to it from the bottom of the rock. This
has now been entirely altered, an arch having been thrown across the
space or fosse between the mainland and the castle, and a new building
containing an entrance hall and staircase erected instead.
It is interesting to find, notwithstanding the numerous alterations
which the varying requirements of successive generations have rendered
necessary, that so many of the ancient features of this renowned castle
have been preserved ; and it is worthy of remark that, of all the ancient
fortresses of the island chiefs, this is the only one still occupied by the old
family. Here alone the walls which sheltered the sons of the Siol
Tormod during so many stormy and turbulent ages still form the
hospitable halls of their descendants, and in more peaceful times have
given welcome and pleasure to such illustrious visitors as Samuel Johnson
and Walter Scott.
ELLANDONAN CASTLE, Ross-shire.
This beautifully situated ruin occupies the summit of a small rocky
island at the junction of three lochs, being at the eastern extremity of
Loch Alsh, where it branches into Loch Duich and Loch Long. The
situation is naturally strong and commanding, and was likely to be
selected at an early period for a fortress. It is supposed to have been
originally occupied by a vitrified fort, which was replaced in the thirteenth
century by a castle consisting of a great wall of enceinte. Colin Fitz-
gerald, son of the Earl of Desmond, was appointed its constable after the
battle of Largs. In the fourteenth century it was in the hands of
Randolph, Earl of Moray, who, in 1331, adorned its walls with the heads
of fifty victims, as a warning to the inhabitants of the district. During
the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Ellandonan was a chief strength of
the Mackenzies of Kintail, and many stories are told regarding it. In
1.504 there was a great insurrection in the Highlands, which it took the
king's forces two years to quell. The castle was then taken by Huntly.
In 1539 it was attacked by Donald Gorm of Lewis, a great foe of the
clan Kenzie, and although feebly garrisoned, the assailants withdrew
in consequence of the death of their leader, who was shot by an arrow
from the castle. In 1719, after the defeat of the insurrection of 1715,
the castle was held by a body of Spaniards under Wm. Mackenzie, Earl
of Seaforth, when it was battered and ruined by three English men-
of-war.
The situation of the castle is very fine, but unfortunately its archi-
tectural features are almost entirely destroyed. The outline of the
ELLANDONAN CASTLE
— 83
FIRST PERIOD
enceinte, which has been of a quadrilateral form (Fig. 38), can, however,
still be traced, and some portions of the enclosing wall are yet standing.
At the west side a narrow passage between two walls seems to have
formed the entrance from the lake. It then, doubtless, contained a
steep staircase leading from the landing-place to the courtyard above,
but it is now only a slope of loose stones.
The keep occupied the north-east angle of the enclosure. Like the
keeps of several of the other Western castles it was probably erected in the
fourteenth century ; its north and east walls seem to have been raised
upon the older wall of enceinte (Fig. 39). It was a rectangular structure
Fig. 3S.— Ellandonan Castle. Plan.
57 feet long by 43 feet wide, with walls about 10 feet in thickness. The
foundations exist all romid, and fragments of the north and south walls are
standing of considerable height, but almost entirely devoid of architectural
features. The entrance door was at the south-east angle — one jamb, with
the bar-hole, being still preserved. The staircase was probably carried
up in the adjoining angle of the wall, but of this there is now no trace.
A narrow loop occurs in the south wall, not far from the doorway, and
the remains of a wall -chamber are traceable in the west wall.
A remarkable structure still survives on the east side of the castle.
This consists of a heptagonal tower 20 feet in diameter internally, placed
at a considerably lower level than the courtyard of the castle. This
FIRST PERIOD
— 84 —
ELLANDONAN CASTLE
DUNTROON CASTLE
85 —
FIRST PERIOD
enclosure, which was always open to the sky, seems to have been a water
tank. It still contains water, but it is of a very stagnant and unwholesome
appearance. There is possibly a spring in it, as in the similar rock on
which stands the castle of Kismull in Barra, and the tower has been
erected to secure it for the use of the garrison. The castle is connected
with the water tower by means of a long sloping passage or court, with
walls of considerable size and strength, being about 5 feet in thickness,
and probably when complete about 15 feet in height.
DUNTROON CASTLE, Argyllshire.*
This structure occupies an ancient site on a promontory which projects
into the north side of Loch Crinan, near the western end of the Crinan
Canal, and forms a conspicuous object in that much-frequented route. The
fortress was long in the possession of the Campbells of Duntroon, and is
now the property of John Malcolm, Esq. of Poltalloch. It appears to
have been originally constructed as a castle of the first period, having a
great wall of enceinte (Fig. 40), about 6 feet in thickness, enclosing an
Fig. 40. — Duntvoou Castle. Plau.
irregular space of ground or rock about 70 feet by 50 feet. The wall of
enceinte is, as frequently occurs with castles of this type, rounded at the
angles. It is about 24 to 28 feet in height, and has a broad parapet walk
round the top, defended with an embattled parapet.
The entrance door is on the north-east side, being that farthest from
the sea, and the approach to it has been strengthened at a late date with a
lower crenellated wall, which forms a narrow way round two sides of the
* The plan and views of Duntroon are from sketches kindly prepared by Mr.
James Edgar, Ri Cruiu, Lochgilphead.
FIRST PERIOD
— 86
DUNTROON CASTLE
enceinte before reaching the doorway. TJiis is seen in Fig. 41. A house
of the seventeenth century now stands at the southern angle of the court-
/ ...#^*
Fig. 41.— Duntioon Castle. View from North-East.
yard, and evidently occupies the site of an earlier one, of which some
portions of the walls still remain incorporated with the newer house. The
existing structure is of the L plan, with a staircase turret in the re-enter-
FiG. 42.— Duntroon Castle. View from South-East.
ing angle. It measures 53 feet by 37 feet along the south and west sides.
Tlie doorway is in the usual position in the staircase turret, and gives
access to a vaulted basement floor containing the kitchen and cellars. The
DUNSCAICH CASTLE 8/ — FIRST PERIOD
house is much modernised, but the first floor has apparently contained the
hall, with the private room at one end and a bedroom in the wing.
Externally the house now presents few features of importance, the roof
having been modernised, but the crow-stepped gables still survive, together
with a rounded angle at the south-east corner (Fig. 42), corbelled out to the
square near the eaves (a sure sign of very late work), and another corljelled
angle at the south-west corner, brought out to the square, where it over-
hangs above the line of the wall of enceinte (Fig. 42).
The black line within the courtyard shows the face of modern erections.
DUNSCAICH CASTLE, Sleat, Island of Skye, Inverness-shire.
Dunscaich has been the site of a castle from a very early time. It is
frequently mentioned in Ossian's poems as the residence of Cuchullin,
where he left his wife, "the Sunbeam of Dunscaich," when he went on a
campaign to Ireland. An island close to the existing castle bears the
name of one of Ossian's heroes, and contains the remains of a vitrified fort,
possibly the original castle of Dunscaich.
The castle, of which the ruins are now visible, was the strength of the
Macdonalds of Sleat, now represented by Lord Macdonald, direct descen-
dant of John, last Earl of Ross and Lord of the Isles. It stands on an
isolated rock, forming a promontory on the north side of the little Bay of
Ganscavaig on the west side of Sleat, and presents the remains of an oblong
structure about 70 feet from north to south and 40 feet from east to west.
The walls, which are now reduced to about L5 feet in height, rise on three
sides above a sheer cliff 80 to 90 feet high. On the fourth side it is cut
off from the land by a deep gully, across which a bridge was thrown, with
side walls only, but without a roadway, which was in all likelihood supplied
by means of a drawbridge. Beyond this the road rises steeply to the castle.
Both roadway and bridge were protected by walls which still remain, and
the road was further guarded by a cross-wall pierced with a gateway. The
naturally strong position has thus been very carefully secured by fortifica-
tion. The castle seems to have been of the primitive type, consisting of
four enclosing walls, to which a kind of gatehouse has been subsequently
added.*
ARDCHONNEL CASTLE, Loch Awe, Argyllshire.
This fortress, the original home of the Argyll family, stands on a
small island near the eastern side of Loch Awe. It was primarily a
castle of the first period, with a simple enclosing wall 7 to 8 feet thick
* We are indebted for the above particulars to the Rev. Donald Mackinnon,
minister of the parish, and David Murray, Esq. , writer, Glasgow.
FIRST PERIOD
ARDCHONNEL CASTLE
(Fig. 43), but it lias been altered and operated upon in later times. The
space within the walls measures about 63 feet square, and the walls
extend to the edge of the rocky platform at the southern point of the
small island on which the castle is built (Fig. 44). It is situated a few
hundred yards from the eastern shore of the loch, near Port Sherrach,
and about 8 miles from Ford, at the head of the loch. To the north of
the main castle lies a courtyard about 55 feet long, with a very thick
wall on the west side, and two entrances at the north-west angle. These
occur opposite one another on a narrow neck of land at the north end of
the courtyard. At that point a deep fissure is formed in the rock on
the east side of the island. This gives shelter on the beach to a small
Fig. 43.— Ardclionnel Castle. Plan.
landing place for boats, from which some rude steps ascend in the crevice
formed between the perpendicular faces of rock to the postern. The
approach is thus well defended by nature, as well as by the battlements
of the courtyard wall above. The gateway on the opposite side of the
narrow neck (which is only about 17 feet wide) seems to have been the
principal entrance to the courtyard. It is 6 feet 6 inches wide, and has a bar-
hole in the wall on each side. A platform has been raised outside this
gateway to the level of the courtyard, with perpendicular sides towards
the exterior, where the ground is considerably deeper than the courtyard.
This platform would thus have to be approached by means of a ladder.
AKDCHONNEL CASTLE
— 89 —
FIRST PERIOD
The wall along the east side, both of the courtyard and castle, is con-
siderably thinner than the other walls, and has probably been rebuilt
at a late date. The entrance from the courtyard to the castle itself is,
as usual, small, being only 3 feet wide, and is provided with a bar-hole
in the wall. This doorway is at the height of a story above the level
of the ground within the castle, and there seems to have been a platform
leading round the west side from the entrance to the door into the
habitable buildings, which lie along the south side of the enclosure.
Part of this platform is still in existence, giving access by an open
staircase to the battlements, and also to an apartment with a large
fireplace, which was probably the hall. The rest of the buildings at
this point are too ruinous to be distinguishable ; but possibly the hall
extended as far as the cross-wall shown on Plaii (unshaded, as it scarcely
rises above the level of the floor). The private room possibly extended
Fig. 44. — Ardclionnel Castle. View from South-East.
beyond this, with a small inner apartment in the angle tower. The
fireplace at the west end may thus have served for both kitchen and
hall ; or the kitchen may have been screened ofi" from the hall with
a partition at the dotted line, where there is a break in the level
of the floor. Beneath this story there is a range of vaulted cellars
entering from the level of the inner courtyard. The block of building
next the entrance from the outer courtyard does not appear to be very old.
From the first floor of this structure access is got by a very narrow passage
in the wall to the square turret at the north-east angle of the main castle.
Towards the end of the fifteenth century, while this castle was still
occupied by the Earl of A rgyll, it became the prison of the infant heir
of the Lordship of the Isles. This child was the son of Angus, who had
rebelled against his father, John, Lord of the Isles, and was carried ofi"
by Athole after the famous battle of the "Bloody Bay" between the
FIRST PERIOD 90 URQUHART CASTLE
followers of the Lord of the Isles and his rebellious son. The child was
called Donald Dubh, and being regarded as a prisoner of great importance,
was carefully guarded by Argyll in the castle of Ardchonnel. Howevei-,
when he grew up he escaped from prison through the fidelity and gallantry
of the men of Glencoe, and in 1503 raised a great army and invaded
Badenoch. After being with difficulty overcome, he was again made
prisoner and committed to the castle of Edinburgh, where he remained
confined for nearly forty years. But in 1545 he at last made his escape,
when he was welcomed by the Islesmen as their chief. Donald entered
into treaty with Henry vill. and Lennox, and supplied a large detachment
in aid of the latter. But misfortune again overtook him, and he fled for
refuge to Ireland, where he died shortly afterwards.
URQUHART CASTLE, Inverness-shire.
This ancient and extensive fortress occupies a detached mass of sand-
stone rock, which projects into Loch Ness on the southern side of the
entrance to Urquhart Bay. The site (Fig. 45) is of irregular form, being
composed of two hills or eminences — that at the southern end being con-
siderably higher than the northern one, and both being cut off from the
adjoining mainland, which rises rapidly to the west, by a wide and deep
ditch. This is partly natural, but has undoubtedly been deepened and
scarped by the hand of man. The ditch sweeps round the southern base
of the highest point of the site. On the east and north the loch forms the
boundary, the rocky margin rising rapidly from the beach. The walls of
the castle enclosed a space about 500 feet in length by an average breadth
of 150 feet ; but following the natural outline of the site, they formed an
ii'regular shape, somewhat like the figure 8. A fortress has undoubtedly
occupied this exceptionally favourable position from very early times. As
mentioned in the Introduction, it was erected to hold in check the still
unsubdued country to the north-west. It formed a royal castle in the
days of William the Lion, and was in the possession of the Durwards and
Cumins in the thirteenth century. In 1297, and again in 1304, it was
besieged and taken by Edward i. In the last siege, it is by some supposed
that the works ei'ected by the English during their previous occupation
enabled the defenders to make a protracted resistance. In Bruce's time
Urquhart became again a royal castle. In 1359 it was bestowed on
William, Earl of Sutherland, and in 1371 on David, Earl of Strathearn,
one of the sons of Robert ii. In 1398 the castle was placed in the care of
a keeper appointed by Parliament, and entries in the Chamberlain's Rolls
for 1428-29 show that certain sums were expended in its repair. In 1450
the Earl of Ross obtained possession of the fortress, but on his forfeiture it
again reverted to the Crown. After some other changes, Urquhart was
URQUHART CASTLE
— 91 —
FIRST PERIOD
FIRST PERIOD
— 92
URQUHART CASTLE
acquired in 1509 by the Grants, who had rendered good service to the
Crown against the Lord of the Isles. In order to secure a firm and
settled government in this turbulent region, James iv. granted a charter
^ }[':.^^^^/''^'' --i^^
Fig. 46.— Urquhart Castle. Keep, from North- West.
to the lands and castle in favour of John Grant of Freuchie, in which he
is required to repair, build up, and construct in the capital messuage of
Urquhart, a tower, with a counterscarp or rampart of stone and lime, and
URQUHART CASTLE
93
FIRST PERIOD
also within the castle a hall, chamber, and kitchen, and all other needful
houses and offices. As we shall presently see, these conditions seem to
have been implemented by the Grants, who have maintained their posses-
sion, but not without a struggle, till the present time. In 1545 the castle
was attacked by the Macdonalds and Camerons, when they carried off
twenty pieces of artillery and a powder^ vessel. The structure seems to
have been abandoned about the beginning of last century, and all roofing
and woodwork have since then disappeared. The existing ruins retain
traces of several periods of the eventful history of the fortress.
This castle, like so many of the other primitive strongholds, seems to
have been originally surrounded with a great wall of enceinte, some portions
of which still exist, while other parts have been reconstructed on the old
foundations. The form of the enclosure was, as above mentioned, that of the
figure 8, the two loops which enclose the northern and southern eminences
Fio. 47.— Urquhart Castle. Plans of Keep.
being united by a narrow neck of land. At this narrow part, which
forms a hollow between the two hills comprised within the castle, stands
the entrance gatehouse (Fig. 48), on the west side, with a long, narrow bridge
or road across the ditch, to give access to it from the mainland. The gate-
house thus serves to fill up the hollow and strengthen the defences at this
comparatively weak point. Opposite this, on the east side, there has evi-
dently been a Watergate or postern, with a steep road leading down to the
loch, which at that point forms a small bay with a sandy beach, suitable
for stranding boats on. The enceinte was naturally divided into two
courts, of which the northern was the inner and the southern the outer.
The existing keep at the north angle is of later date, but this point was
probably always occupied by a redoubt, being situated on the least accessible
and most important position of the site. The western wall of enceinte,
which runs southwards from the keep, is evidently of great age, and prob-
ably represents part of the original enclosing wall (Fig. 46). The walls
FIRST PERIOD 94 URQUHART CASTLE
on the eastern side of this courtyard are also very old, and have been
pierced with the windows of buildings subsequently erected against them,
but which are now demolished.
Of the existing structures the best preserved is the keep (Fig. 47).
This consists of an oblong tower, 41 feet long by 36 feet wide, having the
south-east angle cut off so as to suit the outline of the rock on which it
stands. The want of room at this point has also rendered necessary the
buttress applied to the north-east angle. The keep contains a vaulted
basement floor or cellar, 16 feet 6 inches by 14 feet 6 inches, with a small
grated postern on the east side for access to the lake. From the basement
a narrow wheel-stair leads to the floor above, which is on the level of the
courtyard. The chief entrance doorway from the courtyard is situated on
the west side of this floor. As there is a loophole in the basement imme-
diately under this doorway, there must have been an open area or ditch in
fi'ont of it, which would be crossed by a moveable bridge. The walls are
from 8 to 9 feet in thickness. From the ground floor another wheel-
stair conducts to the upper floors and the roof. The latter was probably
of stone, and rested on an arch, of which traces still remain. The south
side of the keep has fallen, and the dressings of the windows have been
torn out of the rest. Fortunately, however, the parapet, with its corbel-
ling, have been preserved (Fig. 46). These show a projecting square
bartizan over the doorway, and relics of square turrets roofed with gablets
at the north-west and north-east angles (Fig. 48). This shape of turret is
of comparatively late origin, and, together with the style of the corbelling
of the parapet, indicate a date about the beginning of the sixteenth cen-
tury. This is just the time when, as above mentioned, James I v. gave a
charter to Grant of Freuchie, and it is extremely likely that this keep is
the tower which by the said charter he was bound to erect. It is quite
probable, however, that the lower portions of the walls are more ancient,
those of the basement being over 10 feet in thickness.
The gatehouse is the only other building now remaining and it is
very much decayed (Fig. 48). The plan, however, can be distinctly
made out, and consists of a central passage between two towers with
round faces to the exterior (Fig. 45). The passage has been defended by
a portcullis and a folding gate. In the rounded towers are the guard-
rooms, from one of which there seems to have been a postern or sally-
port on the north side. The upper story and attics probably contained
barracks for the garrison. It is now impossible to ascertain what the
parapet was like, as the upper part is entirely destroyed. The approach
to the gatehouse from the mainland was by a raised way 10 feet wide,
provided with a drawbridge in the centre, 15 feet wide. This road is
so placed as not to lead directly up towards the gateway, but approaches
opposite the north tower, so that it is completely commanded and defended
by it.
URQUHART CASTLE
95
FIRST PERIOD
FIRST PERIOD
— 96 —
LOCII DOON CASTLE
The wall of enceinte continues southwards from the gatehouse along
the top of the steep bank of the southern or outer courtyard (Fig. 49).
Some buildings seem to have stood against it at the south or highest
point, but the foundations only can now be traced. From the gatehouse
a passage led round the lower hill to the keep, and also to extensive
buildings which occupied the eastern side of the courtyard. These, no
doubt, were the hall and the other structures which were required to be
Pig. 49. — Urquhart Castle. View from Nortli-West.
erected under the charter of 1509, but their outline can now with
difficulty be traced in the turf -covered mounds. The windows in the
central portion may have been those of the "kitchen," and over it would
be the prescribed "hall, chamber, and other needful houses and offices."
Other apai'tments have also been coiistructed against the westeim enceinte,
adjoining the keep, but they are now reduced to ruins only a few feet
in heisfht.
LOCH DOON CASTLE, Ayrshire.
This castle stands upon a rocky islet in Loch Doon, a long, narrow lake
situated in the wild and mountainous region at the confines of Ayrshire
and Kirkcudbrightshire. The loch is about eight miles long by about
a quarter of a mile in breadth. Towards the upper or southern end it
makes a sudden bend, where the reach containing the small island on
which the castle stands comes into view (Fig. 50). This upper portion
FIRST PRKIOD
_ 97 --
LOCII DOON CASTLE
j'pa lii
FIRST PERIOD
98 —
LOCH DOON CASTLE
of the loch is encircled with dark swelling hills, so that the castle is
very secluded, and, with the deep waters of the lake surrounding it, must
have been almost impregnable. The situation would be very difficult
of access in ancient times, and doubtless this circumstance largely contri-
buted to the selection of the site. The fortress occupies nearly the
whole of "castle island," except to the south-west, where there is a beach
about 20 paces in breadth, but this has been laid bare by the level of the
loch having been considerably lowered in recent times. The surface of
the island is extremely rough, being covered with huge boulders and
Fio. 51.— Loch Doon Castle. Plan.s.
rocks in all directions, so that locomotion round the castle is difficult,
and access to the entrances is specially rough and troublesome. The castle
consists of a great wall of enceinte, the form of which (Fig. 51)
approaches a circle on Plan, being composed of eleven unequal sides,
of which the south side, which is 59 feet long, is about twice the length
of any of the others, while the opposite or north side, in which is the
main entrance, is the shortest, being about 20 feet in length. Measuring
over the walls the castle is about 91 feet from east to west, by 80 feet
from north to south. The walls vary in thickness from 7 feet to 9 feet,
LOCH DOON CASTLE
— 99 —
FIRST PERIOD
and as they now stand they are about 26 feet high, A projecting and
splayed base course goes all round the walls on the outside. The masonry
is of the most excellent kind, being built with large squared grey freestone
blocks laid in courses, and the corner-stones being wrought to their
Fig. 52. — Loch Doon Castle. Entrance Gateway — Exterior.
respective angles in the most careful manner. The quarry from which
the stones were brought is believed to have been beyond the foot of the
loch, some 10 or 12 miles distant from the castle.
The main entrance consists of a fine Early English pointed gateway,
9 feet wide (Fig. 52). It was defended with a portcullis, and an inner
FIRST PERIOD
100
LOCII DOON CASTLE
gate secured with upper and under sliding bars, the holes for whicli are
well preserved (Fig. 53). Contrary to the usual practice, these bars seem
to have run into the walls on either side. Nothing remains of the port-
cullis chamber, which must have existed above. On the eastern side there
is a small postern 2 feet 8 inches wide, also secured with sliding bars
(Fig. 54). The castle has apparently been greatly injured at some period,
and afterwards restored. The fine ashlar work distinctly marks the more
ancient portions, while the rubble work, carried up on the ashlar substruc-
ture, shows the portions reconstructed (Fig. 55). Inside the walls a
bewildering mass of fallen masonry chokes up the whole space, rendering
Fic. 53. — Loch Doon Castle. Entrance — Interior.
any attempt to unravel the original arrangements somewhat difficult. The
most conspicuous portion of the castle is the ruinous keep, which stands
on the inner side of the west wall of enceinte, and projects into the court-
yard (Fig. 55). It measures about 35 feet from east to west by about 22
feet from north to south. Its south and west walls remain to a height of
about 40 feet, but the position of the north and east walls can only be
traced amid the ruins of the ground floor.
This building is evidently of a later date than the original wall of
enceinte. The masonry is inferior, being common rubble work ; and it
will be observed from the Plan that the north side of the keep abutted
LOCII DOON CASTLE
101
FIRST PERIOD
L -
against an ancient fireplace in the wall of enceinte. The way in which
the ruined vault of the first floor comes down on this fireplace, as shown
by dotted line on Plan and in the Sketch of the fireplace (Fig. 56), is
especially awkward, and at first sight very unintelligible, but is evidently
the result of the above addition. A wheel-staircase in the south-east angle
gave access to each of the upper floors by a pointed doorway. Including the
basement the keep was four stories high, and the basement and first floors
were vaulted. From the first floor a doorway adjoining the curtain, 1 foot
11 inches wide, leads outwards, but the apartment or passage to which it
led has been removed. From the ingoing of this door access is obtained
to a small garde-robe in the
•wall of enceinte, lighted with
a three-inch slit, and having a
shoot to the outside.
Inside the south curtain
wall and near its west end (as
shown on the Plan of the
upper part of the south side
of the castle. Fig. 51), and
about 12 or 15 feet above the
ground, occurs the curious
arched recess shown in Fig.
57. A little to the east of
this recess two corbels project
outwards near the top of the
wall (as shown on the same
Plan and in Fig. 55). Their
purpose is not now very obvi-
ous, but they are probably the
relics of some projecting work,
which was removed when the walls were rebuilt or heightened. At the
south-east and south-west corners, and about 18 feet above the ground,
are two window openings. From the ingoing of the former a narrow
stair leads to the top of the walls (see Plan of upper part of wall). This
doubtless gave access to the parapet walk which went round the summit
of the wall of enceinte and to the portcullis chamber.
On the ground level adjoining the postern a ruined vaulted chamber
exists, shown on Plan by hatched lines. Access is obtained to it by a low,
narrow opening about three feet above the floor. Nothing distinct can
be said as to the purpose of this building ; it has evidently been erected
after the walls of enceinte were built. Other indications of constructions
exist in various parts of the enclosure, particularly on the north side of
the postern, but amidst such a mass of ruins as the courtyard now presents
no satisfactory plan can be drawn.
^f~^,
i0 %^.iii'^''5^
Fig. 54. — Loch Doon Castle. Postern.
FIRST PERIOD
102
LOCH DOON CASTLE
LOCH DOON CASTLE
103
FIRST PERIOD
An unworthy attempt was made some years ago to bring down the
south wall, by removing the outer courses of masonry along the whole
Fig. 56.— Loch Doon Castle. Fireplace iu Keep.
of its length of 59 feet. This result would probably have happened before
this, if at various times gentlemen visiting the ruin had not built in
props here and there (Fig. 55) ; but
these are of such a temporary and
unstable nature, that unless speedy
and effectual measures are taken the
fall of this wall cannot be long de-
ferred.
Loch Doon Castle " is sometimes
called Baliol Castle, and is supposed
to have been a seat of the ancient
Lords of Carrick."* The incidents
connected with this castle recorded
in history are few. The earliest
event we find mentioned regarding
it happened in 1306, after the
signal defeat of Bruce at Methven.
His adherents being forced to scatter and seek safety where they could,
' Rambles in Galloway, by Harper.
Fig. 57.— Loch Doon Castle.
Recess in South Wall.
FIRST PERIOD 104 LOCH DOON CASTLE
Sir Christopher Seton, a faithful follower and brother-in-law of the
king, and an ancestor of the house of Winton, sought refuge in Loch
Doon Castle, then under the hereditary governorship of Sir Gilbert de
Carrick. Sir Christopher was hotly pursued, and the castle was invested
by the English, whereupon Sir Gilbert, supposing the cause of Bruce to be
lost, surrendered it, with Sir Christopher as a prisoner, when the latter was
taken to Dumfries and hanged as a traitor. But a letter of remission was
granted by Robert i. to Sir Gilbert de Carrick for the surrender of the
castle to the English, restoring him " to the government thereof, with the
lands thereto belonging."*
In 1333, when Scotland was almost wholly in the power of Baliol,t
" five strong castles, however, still remained in possession of the adherents
of David (li.), and these eventually served as so many rallying points to
the friends of liberty." These fortresses were — Dumbarton, Urquhart,
Lochleven, Kildrummie, and Lochmaben. " A stronghold," Tytler adds,
" in Lochdon, on the borders of Carrick, was also retained for David Bruce
by John Thomson, a brave soldier of fortune, and probably the same person
who, after the fatal battle of Dundalk, led home from Ireland the broken
remains of the army of King Edward Bruce."
Again,! it is recorded that in 1510, in some of the never-ending feuds
of the nobility, William Crawford of Lochmores (now Dumfries House)
was concerned in the taking of Loch Doon Castle from the Kennedies.
Paterson § further states that Loch Doon is supposed to have been destroyed
by fire in the reign of James v., about the same period that Kenmore and
other strongholds of the nobility in Galloway were reduced, the policy of
the monarch being to increase his own power by crippling that of the
feudal barons.
In his account of the castle, Paterson states that the iron portcullis
is lying at the bottom of the lake, and that an attempt was made during
a severe frost to land it, but the ice broke and it again sank.
From the above historical notices, as well as from the character of
the structure, it is evident that Loch Doon Castle belongs to the First
Period of our Castellated Architecture. The fine masonry of the massive
wall of enceinte and the style of the doorways correspond with the work
at Bothwell, Kildrummie, and Lochindorb, and are doubtless of the same
period. There seems to be no reason for supposing that the superior work
here was executed during the English occupation. There is nothing that
can be regarded as English additions or improvements. The whole of the
original structure is in keeping and of one period, and there seems to be
no doubt about it having been erected before Bruce's time. At that date
the hall and other buildings seem to have extended along the west wall,
where the great fireplace, which is undoubtedly of that period, is situated,
* Nisbet's Heraldry, Vol. ii. p. 37. + Paterson's Ayrshire, Families, Vol. i. p. 356.
t Tytler, Vol. i. p. 407. § Vol. ii. p. 468.
ACIIINCASS CASTLE 105 FIRST PERIOD
and where also the garde-robe and tlie arched recess above referred to exist.
As in many of the other castles of the First Period, a keep was added to the
wall of enceinte at a later date. The partial demolition of the walls and
their rebuilding along with the keep appear, from the style of the latter,
to have occurred in the Third Period, and may therefore have been con-
nected with the destruction above mentioned in the reiern of James v.
ACHINCASS OR AUCHEN CASTLE, Dumfriesshire.
Although now greatly ruined, this is still a good example in the south
of Scotland of a castle of the First Period, with its great enclosing wall,
and its well-preserved ditches and embankments. The castle stands on
a high plateau above Beattock Station, and has been surrounded and
protected by marshes. The deep rocky defile of the River Garpol, a
short way to the south, also afforded defence from that direction. This
fortress was in the hands of Randolph, Earl of Moray, in the early part
of the fourteenth century, but from its construction it probably belongs
to the previous century.
It exhibits (Fig. 58) the plain unbroken wall of enceinte of the First
Period, with round towers beginning to appear at the angles. The walls
are tolerably complete all round, although now reduced to some 15 feet
in height. They are 15 feet thick at the base, and 12 feet thick above,
with a set-off of 3 feet on the inside, about 6 feet above the courtyard
level. The great thickness of the lower part was doubtless intended to
resist mining. The tops of the walls and towers were probably crowned
with a parapet, but of this no vestiges now remain. An outside stair-
case in the east wall evidently led to the parapet walk.
The enclosure measures over 100 feet each way. It was entered by
a zigzag passage close to the north-west tower, to which there would be
a drawbridge across the moat. A deep fosse, from 50 to 70 feet wide,
extends all round the castle, and the remains of dams and other embank-
ments show that there were extensive outer defences and water arrange-
ments, which were carefully considered and maintained. A broad dry
plateau extends beyond the fosse towards the east, beneath which runs
a remarkable vaulted tunnel 7 feet in height. This may have been a
conduit for regulating the supply of water in the fosse. There are
remains of a similar built drain, within the walls, connected with a deep
chamber or pit in the east wall, but it is impossible to say whether it
had any connection with that in the plateau.
Fragments of an inner smaller turret exist on the top of the south-
east tower. The wall is thin, and it seems probable that this is a late
addition.
In the fifteenth century the castle seems to have been in the hands
FIRST PERIOD
106 —
HOME CASTLE
of James Maitland, a cadet of the Maitlands of Lethington, from whom
branched the Maitlands of Eccles (see Nisbet).
Fio. 58. — Achincass Castle. Plan.
The Earls of Morton were long proprietors of Achincass, but no events
are recorded regarding its history.
HOME CASTLE, Berwickshire.
This ancient seat of the powerful family of Home stands about five
and a half miles north from Kelso, on a rocky height about 700 feet
above the sea, whence it commands an extensive prospect over the valley
of the Tweed, and the level country of the Merse as far as Berwick,
This castle is of very early foundation, and formed for centuries one of
HOME CASTLE
— 107 —
FIRST PERIOD
FIRST PERIOD 108 HOME CASTLE
the chief bulwarks of the Borders. It is now, unfortunately, only a
modernised ruin, the existing walls having been erected on the old
foundations by the last Earl of Marchmont about the end of the
eighteenth century, at which time the castle had been almost entirely
demolished. The view (Fig, 59) of the existing structure therefore
gives no accurate idea of the appearance of the ancient castle, but
simply shows the nature of the site and extent of the fortress, which
is more fully explained by the Plan (Fig. 60). It has evidently been a
castle of the First Period, forming an irregular square about 130 feet
across, and surrounded with a lofty enclosing wall about 6 feet in
thickness. On the north-west side the wall rises above a precipice and
is sufficiently well protected by nature ; but on the other three sides
the ground slopes away more gradually. Flanking works and towers
Fio. (30. — Home Castle. Pkui.
would therefore appear to have been placed at the south-east and south-
west angles to strengthen these fronts. From the old loopholes in the
south-west wall there seem to have been buildings against it on the
inside, and possibly the hall and other apartments may have been there
situated.
In the centre of the courtyard there is a mass of ancient masonry,
but it is impossible to say of what structure it formed part. What is
of most value here is the general plan, which shows that the type of
the old First Period castles, with their great walls of enceinte, most of
the surviving specimens of which are now to be found in the Highlands
and Islands, was also common to the lowlands of Scotland.
This castle probably owes its origin in the thirteenth century to
William, a son of the Earl of Dunbar, who took the surname of Home
MOULIN OASTLE
— 109 —
FIRST PEHTOD
from this territory. Plis descendants have always occupied a very
prominent position in the aftairs of the nation — being created Lord
Home in 1473 and Earl of Home in 1604.
The castle stood many memorable sieges : it was taken by Somerset
in 1547, but regained by Lord Home in 1549. The Earl of Sussex
battered and reduced it in 1569 ; and again in 1650 Colonel Fenwick
besieged and took it for Cromwell. The property passed in the eighteenth
century into tlie hands of the Earl of Marchmont. It now belongs to
Sir Hugli Hume-Campbell of Marchmont.
MOULIN CASTLE, Perthshire.
This fragment of a thirteenth-century stronghold stands on level
ground on the higher platform, about a mile above Pitlochrie. It lias
Fio. 61.— Moulin C.istle. Plan.
been one of those large quadrangular enclosed spaces surrounded with
high and solid walls, and strengthened with a round tower at each angle,
like Kinclaven and Inverlochy, which constituted the fortresses of the
First Period. The castle (Fig. 61) has been about 110 feet long from
north to south, by 85 feet from east to west. The walls are 6 feet in
thickness, and have been probably nearly 30 feet in height.
The only round tower remaining is that at the north-east angle,
FIRST PERIOD
— 110
BRUCE S CASTLE
which is 20 feet in diameter. The remains of the ancient walls are but
scanty (-Fig. 62), and even these are said to owe their preservation to
the tradition that a number of people who died of the plague were buried
here, which caused the place to be left undisturbed. The site is supposed
to have been surrounded with a lake or marsh, now drained, which would
give great additional security.
i Ai
4
*^*a3a5^t^,.^,;V4^
Fig. 62.— Moulin Castle. View from North- West.
On the forfeiture of the Earl of Athole, Bruce gave the estate to his
brother-in-law, Sir Neil Campbell of Lochaw, whose second son was
known as Sir John Campbell of Moulin, and who probably resided in
the castle. This Sir John having died without issue, the estate reverted
to the Crown, and was conferred on William Douglas, Lord of Liddesdale,
who resigned it in 1341 in favour of Robert, the Great Steward of
Scotland.
BRUCE'S CASTLE, Turnberry, Ayrshire.
This castle, situated on the extreme western point of the coast be-
tween Ayr and Girvan, is now reduced to a few fragments of founda-
tions, but is of peculiar interest from its historical associations. It is
of very ancient origin, having been the fortress of the old Celtic Lords
of Galloway. By the romantic marriage of Margaret, granddaughter of
KINCARDINE CASTLE 111 FIRST PERIOD
their descendant Duncan, it passed in 1271 to Robert de Brus, and
thus became the heritage of his son, King Robert. In 1307 its sur-
prise and capture became the turning-point in Bruce's fortune, when
he landed with a few followers from his retreat in Arran — an incident
so picturesquely developed in the Lord of the Isles. The castle has
evidently been one of the First Period, with a great enclosing wall. In
Grose's time a good deal of this wall still remained, together with a
portion of what seems to have been a central keep, and traces of a
drawbridge, but now only the ruins of some vaults and portions of wall
are traceable. It has been a castle of considerable extent and strength,
situated on a rocky promontory protected on three sides by the sea. The
rock forming the site is extremely hard and rugged, and throws out sharp
spurs towards the sea. Between these the waves wash in with violence,
and have formed " coves " or narrow channels between the precipitous
sides of the rocks. Two of these coves appear to have been arched over,
so that the wall of enceinte might be continued across their mouths at a
high level. The sea thus ran up within the castle walls at two points.
At the head of the coves there seems to have been a wall with a door and
staircase, giving access to the fortress. The coves might thus be used as
a means of approach from the sea, and as places of shelter for friendly
boats ; while those of a hostile character could be easily swamped from
the upper rocks enclosed within the enceinte.
The keep appears to have occupied the summit of the rock and to
have been partly circular in form, but is now reduced to mere foundations.
The base of the entrance gateway, with its portcullis groove, can still be
traced on the landward side.
KINCARDINE CASTLE,* Kincardineshire.
This ruin is situated about four and a half miles north-west of
J^aurencekirk, on a wooded hill near the site of the now vanished town
of Kincardine. The castle is supposed to be of great antiquity, and to
have been occupied by Kenneth iii., Alexander the Lion, Alexander iii.,
Edward i., and Robert ii. Tradition relates that Kenneth iii. was
here murdered by Fenella, a relative who occupied a neighbouring
castle. Here too was prepared the draft of Baliol's abdication.
The ruins (Fig. 63) still stand to a height of 5 or 6 feet above ground.
These show a quadrangular plan, fully 130 feet square, with a thick
outer wall, and remains of apartments round three of the sides. The
principal entrance was on the south side, facing the Howe, or level plain
* We have to thank J. Crabb Watt, Esq., F.S.A., for the plan and notes of
the history of this castle.
FIRST PERIOD
— 112
KING EDWARD CASTLE
of the Mearns. The lower part of the main walls is sloped or battered.
There is no indication of a moat, but the castle was probably defended
by the marshes which formerly surrounded it.
Fig. 63.— Kincardine Castle. Plan.
In 1532 Earl Marischal had the town of Kincardine made the
capital of the county ; but it does not seem to have thriven. In the
time of James vi. the courts were removed from Kincardine to Stone-
haven, after which the town rapidly declined. The market cross was
removed to Fettercairn, and the houses have now entirely disappeared.
KING EDWARD CASTLE, Aberdeenshire.
A ruinous pile of what was probably at one time a castle of the First
Period. It stands on a rocky spit of land surrounded on two sides by a
burn, and has undoubtedly been a fortress from a very early period. The
name associates it with Edward and his invasion, but is believed to be a
corruption of the much older name of Kinedar. The castle seems to have
been built by the Comyns, and was probably dismantled by Bruce, who
gave it to Sir John Ross. It afterwards passed through many hands, and
belonged amongst others to Alexander Stewart of Badenoch, and in the
fifteenth century to the Lord of the Isles.
In 1495 James iv. contirms a charter of the land for the keeping and
upholding of the Castle of King Edward, reserving the Castle Hill and
Castle.
In 1509 the Castle Hill and steading are conferred upon Lord Forbes,
" with stones and lime and the pertinents of the same, upon which he
KINO RDWARD CASTLR 113 FIRST PERIOD
himself intends to build." Licence is also granted him to build a "castle-
tower or fortalice, with defences, viz., barmkin and le Machcolin with
moveable bridges, viz., le drawbriggis, iron gates, and all other necessaries."
From this it would appear that the castle was rebuilt by Lord Forbes
early in the sixteenth century. It was a courtyard castle, with buildings
on three sides, and the gateway defended by a ditch and drawbridge on
the neck of the peninsular site. The enclosure was 103 feet by 56 feet.
The buildings surrounding it are now reduced to masses of masonry.*
* Spence's Buined Castles of Banff, p. 88.
THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND.
SECOND PERIOD— 1300 to 1400.
It will be recollected that the castles of this period are of a totally
distinct character from those of the preceding epoch. The great wall of
enceinte of the First Period Castles is entirely wanting in those erected in
the fourteenth century, except in some cases where, as we have above
noticed, keeps were added to the older structures. This was frequently
done in the Highlands and Islands, and occurred, as we have seen, at
Duart, Kismull, Elian -Tirrim, Castle Swin, and Skipness ; as also at
Loch Doon Castle, in Ayrshire.
Throughout Scotland generally, however, the castles of the Second
Period or fourteenth century, being the season of Scotland's deepest de-
pression, consist of simple towers designed on the model of the Norman
keep. They are usually a plain oblong in form ; but a few have a wing at
one corner, and thus constitute the first examples of the L Plan. The
accommodation of these keeps was scanty, and their aspect was rude. A
full description of them is given in Vol. i. p. 143.
It has been seen above that the castles of the Highlands and Islands
of the First Period corresponded in style with those of the mainland, and
we shall now find that those of the Second and later Periods were also
similar in type in all parts of the country, including the outlying Hebrides.
We have had frequent occasion to observe that keeps of the same simple
desif^n were erected throughout all the subsequent periods of Scottish
Architecture ; but those of the fourteenth century may generally be dis-
tinguished from the later structures by the great thickness of the walls,
and by the vaulting of the upper floors as well as the ground floor. These
are, however, by no means universal rules. The extreme simplicity and
solidity of the erections are the only safe guides to be relied on, together
with written history, in fixing the dates of these keeps.
In describing the castles of the First Period we began, for the reasons
stated, with those of the Western Highlands and Islands, and then gave an
account of the few still remaining on the mainland. The same order will
now be followed with reference to the simple keeps of the Second Period,
BORVE CASTLE
115
SKCOND PERIOD
after whicli we shall describe a few castles of tlie L Plan which appear to
be of the same date.
I. SIMPLE KEEPS.
BORVE CASTLE,* Benbecula, Inverness-shire.
This castle, although now reduced to a very ruinous state, is valuable
on account of its history being approximately known. It thus serves to
connect the style of building adopted in the Hebrides with that in use on
the mainland of Scotland at a definite period. The castle was built by
Lady Amie, first wife of John of Isla. She was sister and heiress of
Ranald M'Ruari, possessor of the isles of Uist, Barra, &c., and the
Lordship of Garmoran. Her husband, at her brother's death, united her
Fig. 64.— Borv'e Castle. Plan.
extensive possessions to his own, and assumed the title of Lord of the
Isles. Thus was formed the modern Lordship of the Isles, the first
recorded instance of this style occurring in 1354. John of the Isles
afterwards divorced this lady, and married Margaret, daughter of Robert
the High Steward. This took place before the death of David ii. in 1370.
Gregory remarks, in his History of the Highlands : " It seems clear from
the unvarying tradition of the country that the Lady Amie had given no
grounds for this divorce. She dwelt on her own estates till her death, and
is said to have built the castles of Elanterim in Moydert and Borve in
Benbecula."t The date of Borve would, according to this account, be in
* We have to thank John J. Fyffe, Esq., Benbecula, and Alex. Carmicliael,
Esq., Edinburgh, for plans and views of this castle, and for information regarding it.
t Note, p. 29.
SECOND PERIOD
116
BORVE CASTLE
the latter half of the fourteenth century, or during the Second Period of
our Castellated Architecture. The structure quite corresponds in style
with the castles of the mainland at that date, and it is very interesting to
find in the distant and then almost independent islands a keep of the
same style as those erected at that period throughout Scotland.
Benbecula is one of the chain of islands which form the Outer Hebrides,
and is situated between North and South Uist. The castle of Borve (like
Lady Amie's other castle of Ellan-Tirrim, already described), was built upon
a rocky islet, which then lay at some distance from the west coast of
Benbecula. But the drift sands from the Atlantic have filled up the
intervening channel and extended the coast, so that the rocky site of
/I'^fe^-i^
/.
Fig. C5.— Borve Castle, from South-Bast.
the castle now forms part of the mainland, and is about 1000 yards from
the existing beach.
The structure was a rectangular keep (Fig. 64), of which the south
wall is 62 feet in length. The east and west walls are partly preserved,
and are 37 feet in length ; but as the north wall is entirely removed, the
east and west ends may have been longer. The walls are fully 7 feet in
thickness, and are very massive, with few and small openings. Un-
fortunately, the structure is so much decayed that few details can be
observed. There are no signs of vaulting visible, nor any indication
of fireplaces. The general aspect of the ruined pile (Fig. 65) cannot fail
to recall castles of the same date on the mainland, such as Dundonald and
Torthorwald. The original entrance doorway is in the south wall, and
BREACACHA OASTLE, COLL
— 117
SECOND PERIOD
about 6 feet above the ground. It has the usual holes for the sliding bars
used to strengthen the door. At a later time a porch (indicated by dotted
lines) has been erected in front of the door, and probably once contained a
stair leading up to it. The great hall seems, as at Dundonald, to have
been on the top floor, as there are remains of a large window at that
level in the east gable (see Fig. 65). The walls diminish in thickness as
they rise, leaving a set-off to receive the joists at each floor level. They
are thus 9 feet thick on the ground floor, 7 feet on the first floor, and
4 feet on the top floor. The walls are still about 30 feet in height.
BREACACHA CASTLE,* Coll, Argyllshire.
The island of Coll lies about seven miles to the west of the north-west
point of Mull, and at the head of a bay near the south end of the island
I ROM GATL
Fig. 66.— Breacacha Castle, Coll. Plan at level of First Floor of Keep.
* For the drawings and particulars of this castle we have to thank the kindness of
John Lome Stewart, Esq., the proprietor, and T. L. Watson, Esq., architect, Glasgow.
SECOND PERIOD
118 —
BREACACHA CASTLE, COLL
stands the ancient castle of Breacacha. The island was in olden times
alternately in the possession of the Macneils, the Macleans, and the
Macdonalds, so that there would be some difficulty in determining by
whom the castle was erected.
It consists of a quadrilateral keep measuring 32 feet by 27 feet, with
walls 7 feet in thickness. Attached to the keep are the enclosing walls of
a courtyard, strengthened with a round tower 14 feet 6 inches in diameter
at the south-east angle, which, being the furthest from the keep, was the
weakest point. The courtyard wall does not generally exceed 3 feet in
Fig. 67. — Breacacha Castle, Coll, from Soutli-East.
thickness, although of considerable height, and is thus different from the
immense walls of enceinte of the First Period. It may, however, have
been rebuilt. The entrance to the courtyard was by a small doorway at
the rounded south-west angle, being that nearest the sea. A range of
buildings has run along the southern wall, and the entrance into the
courtyard must have passed through the ground floor of these erections.
This structure is now, however, much ruined, little being left except the
south-west gable and part of the interior wall. A parapet wall no doubt
ran round the top of the enclosing wall, and there are traces of a corbelled
garde-robe at one angle. The round tower at the south-east angle (Fig.
BREACACHA CASTLE, COLL
119
SECOND PERIOD
67) has been a story higher than the wall, and has been crowned with an
embattled parapet, the gargoyles or holes for the escape of the water from
the parapet or platform being still apparent (Fig. 68), and of the usual
character of such features in the isles. Some of the embrasures are also
still preserved. The keep (Fig. 68) is doubtless the oldest part of the
castle, and its features lead to the conclusion that it belongs to the Second
Period of our Castellated Architecture (fourteenth century). It has the
same simple form and thick walls as the castles of that date. The entrance
Fio. (38.— Breacacha Castle, Coll, from South-West.
door appears to have been at the level of the first floor, but the place is so
encumbered with rubbish that it is diflicult to determine the original
levels. The parapet is carried up flush with the outer face of the walls
without any moulding or corbelling, as in many of those towers. On the
south-east angle only (Fig. 67) has there been a corbelled bartizan, and the
corbelling is of the simplest kind. The windows are very small and
primitive-looking, and there are no fireplaces. The keep is five stories in
height, and a single wheel-stair in the south-east angle gives access to
each. The floors have all been of wood, and have now disappeared. The
SECOND PEHIOD
— 120 —
CASTLE COEFFIN
plan shows a garde-robe in the thickness of the first or hall floor. A parapet
walk 4 feet in width runs round the top of the walls, passing outside the
east and west gables of the roof (Fig. 69).
The only work of an ornamental character to be observed in the
building is a dog-tooth ornament carved on the lintel of the staircase
door, which enters into the hall.
&.
2lJl/<' w/(,.
Fig. 69. -Breacacha Castle, Coll, from North-West.
The structure in the courtyard has probably been erected at a later
period, to provide additional and more comfortable accommodation than
the keep afforded. The chimney in the west gable (Fig. 68) shows that it
has had a fireplace, and the windows in the south wall (Fig. 67) are large,
and much more modern looking than those in the keep. An outer enclosure
or courtyard seems at one time to have extended from the keep towards the
north, but a portion of the wall is all that now remains of it.
CASTLE COEFFIN, Lismore, Argyllshire.
This shattered mass of ruins (Fig. 70) is set in a most commanding
position on the summit of a conical peninsular rock on the west side of
the island of Lismore, in Loch Linnhe, where it protects and conceals
a small natural harbour — a place no doubt of considerable importance
on this rugged coast in the days of the Norsemen. The castle is said
to have been erected by one of the Vikings — a "Danish prince "of the
same name, but it seems more likely that the present structure may have
CASTLE COEFFIN
— 121 —
SECOND PERIOD
SECOND PERIOD
122
ARDTORNISH CASTLE
superseded an older fortress erected on this site by the Dane. The
building is now a total ruin, but the outline of its walls is still traceable
(Fig. 71). They are 8 feet thick, and form a rudely rectangular structure
65 feet long by 35 feet wide, perched on the top of the rock. How the
interior has been divided it is impossible to say, but there would appear
to have been two windows on the landward side, and one towards the sea
having small external openings with wide bays towards the interior. The
doorway has been at the north end, and from the ingoing a staircase has
Fig. 71. -Castle Coeffin. Plan.
wound up in the thickness of the wall leading to an upper floor, and no
doubt to a battlemented parapet. The access to the doorway has been
defended with outworks, which probably contained a staircase and draw-
bridge, but they are now so destroyed as to render any explanation of
them impossible. The style of the structure is rather that of the fourteenth
century than of an earlier date. In point of picturesqueness these ruins
are scarcely to be surpassed.
ARDTORNISH CASTLE, Argyllshire.
This castle occupies an important place in Scott's Lord of the Isles,
and the account given of the buildings is made to correspond with the
imposing character of the court of that powerful chief described as held
ARDTORNISH CASTLE
— 123 —
SECOND PERIOD
therein. But there is nothing in the existing remains to lead one to
believe that Ardtornish was ever more than a large keep of the quadri-
lateral style of the fourteenth century. The ruins are now reduced to the
wall of the basement, which is 9 or 10 feet in thickness, not above 15 feet
in height, and is absolutely without any other architectural features.
This fragment stands on the top of a basaltic headland on the nortliern
side of the Sound of Mull and a few miles from its eastern end (Fig. 72).
The entrance to the Sound is thus guarded by Duart Castle on the south
or Mull coast, and by Ardtornish Castle on the northern or Morven side,
and they both form prominent objects in the view (Fig. 73). The keep
Fig. 72.— Ardtornish Castle, from the West.
of Ardtornish has doubtless closely resembled that of Duart, but it does
not appear to have ever been attached to a wall of enceinte like the
latter. Ardtornish was the castle of the first Lord of the Isles, and was
probably built by him in the fourteenth century. He died there in 1380,
and was buried with great splendour at lona. In 1461 the Earl of Ross
(who was also Lord of the Isles) assumed the position of an independent
prince, and entered into negotiations with Edward iv. of England for an
attack upon Scotland. It was at this castle of Ardtornish that the
former called a council of his chiefs, when he granted a commission like
a sovereign ruler to two of his kinsmen to confer with the deputies of
King Edward.
SECOND PERIOD
— 124
ARDTORNISH CASTLE
KILDONAN CASTLE
— 125 —
SECOND PERIOD
AROS CASTLE, Mull, Argyllshire.
A fragmentary ruin of what once was a powerful castle of the Lord
of the Isles. It stands on a high basaltic plateau, which forms a pro-
montory on the south shore of the Sound of Mull, and shelters a bay or
natural harbour. The site is near the centre of the Sound where it bends,
so that the fortress commands a clear view both up and down the channel.
'J'he advantages of this situation led to its being early secured as a place
of defence. It was possibly at first a castle with a wall of enceinte
surrounding the plateau, but if so that wall has now disappeared. The
Fig. 74.— Aros Castle.
keep was erected on the landward side of the site, where it guarded the
approach, which was likewise defended with fosse and drawbridge. Of
the keep there now remains only a portion of two walls (see Sketch, Fig.
74), without any very distinctive features, but the door and window open-
ings are evidently ancient. It was at Aros that Lord Ochiltree called the
island chiefs together in 1608, when he invited them to dine on board his
vessel, and after dinner informed them that they were prisoners by com-
mand of His Majesty James vi. He then carried them off and distributed
them as prisoners in the castles of Dumbarton, Blackness, and Stirling.
KILDONAN CASTLE,* Buteshire.
A ruinous ancient keep, erected on a rocky plateau on the sea-coast,
at the south end of ther island of Arran. It is protected by a precipitous
* We are indebted to Mr. Railton for the Plans and Section of this castle.
SECOND PERIOD
— 126
KILDONAN CASTLE
cliff on the east or seaward side, and by a ravine on the north (Fig. 75).
The structure (Fig. 76) measures 28 feet 5 inches by 22 feet. The entrance
door seems to have been on the ground floor, with a wheel-stair adjoining,
in the north-east angle, which led to the hall on the first floor. Above
this level, another wheel-stair in the south-west angle conducted to the
upper floors. The ground floor is vaulted, and the hall is also covered
witli a slightly-pointed barrel vault 13 feet in height (see Section). The
Fig. 75. — Kildonan Castle.
top story, now ruinous, was probably likewise roofed with a vault, which
would sustain the stone slabs forming the roof. The walls on the ground
floor are about 6 feet thick, while those of the first floor are diminished to
4 feet 6 inches in thickness. The basement is lighted by a narrow slit at
the north and south ends. The hall has a fireplace in the south wall, and
two larger windows in the side walls near the south end. There is also a
garde-robe, with descending flue, at the south-east angle.
MOY CASTLE — 127 — SECOND PERIOD
The surviving features of the tower indicate a structure of the Second
SLCTION
[
GROUND FLOOR
1 i.
1
P
- I 7 I
1 ^
IB..};;
bJ
z
>
<
PR£CIPICL
Fig. 76.— Kildonan Castle. Plans and Section.
or Third Period, but nothing remains to tix its date more definitely. It
was the fortress of a branch of the Clan Macdonald.
MOY CASTLE,* Loch Buy, Argyllshire.
An ancient keep, long the residence of the chief of the Maclaines. It
stands on a rocky foundation at the north end of Loch Buy, an arm of
the sea, which penetrates into the island of Mull from the south. It is a
* The sketch of this castle has been kindly supplied by Dr. D. Christison,
Edinburgh.
SECOND PERIOD
128 —
CLOSEBURN CASTLE
rude structure (Fig. 77) of apparently an early type, but has few architec-
tural features by which its date can be determined. Probably the walls
Fig. 77.—Moy Castle.
are as old as the fourteenth century, but the upper part seems to have
been modified in the seventeenth century.
CLOSEBURN CASTLE, Dumfriesshire.
An ancient keep, situated in the valley of the Nith, about ten or twelve
miles north from Dumfries. The castle stands on a level plateau, sur-
rounded by extensive parks and wooded domains which in olden times
were under water, and are still known as the Loch of Closeburn. The
Plan (Fig. 78) is a parallelogram, 45 feet 6 inches by 34 feet 6 inches,
and the top of the parapet is 50 feet high. The building is of great
strength, having walls on the ground floor about 10 feet thick, with three
vaulted floors, as shown on Section (Fig. 78). It is still inhabited and in
perfect order ; and although considerably modernised both externally and
internally, it presents the characteristics of a Scottish keep of the end of
the fourteenth century or of the beginning of the fifteenth, although the
exact date of its erection seems not to be known. The ground floor has
CLOSEBURN CASTLE
— 129
SECOND PERIOD
no communication with the upper floors. These were reached by a door
on the first floor level about 10 feet above the ground. This door is
splayed and has a round arch, and is protected by an iron yett, still in
position. The walls of the upper floors ai^e about 7 feet 6 inches thick,
and the internal space is divided into two chambers by a wall about 3 feet
thick. Probably this wall, although old, is not part of the original struc-
ture, as in castles of this kind the hall usually occupied the whole of the
first floor.
I ROM gate:
riR5T FLOOR.
I I I I I I I I i| 1
SELCTION
s-
FiG. 78.— Closeburn Castle. Plan and Section.
From the hall a narrow wheel-stair in the thickness of the wall leads
to the three upper floors and to the battlements. The parapet walk has
been modernised (Fig. 79), the roof, which is supported on a stone arch,
being doubtless originally covered with stone, as at Borthwick and Craig-
millar.
The following description of the entrance doorway by Grose led Dr. J.
Hill Burton, as it would most readers, to believe that the castle was a
Norman structure. He says : " From the plan on which it was built, and
the style of the mouldings of the door, which are the only ancient orna-
1
SECOND PERIOD
130
CLOSEBURN CASTLE
ments now remaining .ibout the building, it seems that the date of its
construction cannot be later than the beginning of the twelfth century."
And again : " The door is under a circular arch, with a zigzag or dancette
moulding rudely cut out of the hard granite."
Dr. Burton, however, visited the castle, when he found that Grose was
mistaken, and that nothing to support the above statement could be
M^^k..^-^. -J % "^'^i
Fig. 79.— Closelourn Castle.
observed. He adds: "The castle is just the featureless Scottish Peel
tower of the fifteenth or sixteenth century."
Closeburn has been in the possession of the Kirkpatrick family from
about the beginning of the thirteenth century. The romantic incident of
the death of the Red Cumyn in 1306, who was stabbed by Roger de
Kirkpatrick of Closeburn in the Church of the Greyfriars in Dumfries,
is well known, but the present structure could not possibly have been
erected till about a century later.
Mr. Craufurd Tait Ramage, in his work entitled Drunilanrig and the
CASSILLIS CASTLE 131 SECOND PERIOD
Douglases, contending for the antiquity of certain castles against Burton,
says : " The ground floor had a well in it, sunk so as to supply the in-
habitants at all times with water if they were besieged. It was approached
from the upper stories by a stone stair formed in the outer wall." There
is now no appearance either of the well or of the stair. Mr. Ramage
further refers to traces of walls having been found when the family built
a new mansion beside the castle in the beginning of the seventeenth
century. These were probably remains of walls of enceinte, and were
swept away at that time. It may be mentioned that in the collection of
old drawings of Scottish castles belonging to the Royal Scottish Academy,
there are two sketches of Closeburn, one of which shows an arched entrance
gateway, through which is seen in the distance the walls of enceinte with
a round corner tower similar to those at Craigmillar. But the connection
of the gateway, walls, and tower with the keep are unfortunately not
shown on the sketch. The other drawing shows the loch coming quite
close to the castle, as is also the case in Grose's view.
The new mansion was burned down in 1748, when the old keep again
became the family residence, till they sold the estate in 1783. "The
castle was then occupied," says Mr. Ramage, " by ' Willie Stewart,' the
friend and boon companion of Burns, factor to the new proprietoi', Dr.
James Stewart Menteith," who built another large mansion adjoining in
the Renaissance style.
CASSILLIS CASTLE, Ayrshire.
An ancient keep, standing on the level ground above the steep south
bank of the River Doon, about four miles from Maybole and one mile
from Cassillis Station. In the time of Bruce the estate belonged to Sir
Neil Montgomerie, who remained in possession till the reign of Robert ii.,
" at the quhilk tyme the saidis landis fell to ane lass." The Laird of
" Dalrumpill, her nyteboir, come to hir hous of Caissillis and persewit
hir be forse to have hir in marrage, the quhilk she wald nocht condiscend
to, bot defendit the hous." Kennedy of Dunure came to her relief, slew
Dalrymple, carried the heiress off himself, and " maid hir to resing hir
landis in the kingis handis in favoris off him." " This was aboutt the thrid
yeir off Robertt the Secund, quhilk wes the 1373 year of God."* This
castle became the principal i-esidence of the Kennedies of Dunure, who
were created Earls of Cassillis in the fifteenth century. The estate still
remains in the hands of the Marquis of Ailsa, the 14th Earl of
Cassillis. The castle has some interesting memoirs connected with it.
It was the scene (in the seventeenth century) of the story celebrated in
the ballad of Johnnie Faa, whose glamour enticed away the lady of the
* Ilistorie of the Kennedyis, p. 3.
SECOND PERIOD
132
CASSILLIS CASTLE
house with all her maids. Here, too, George Buchanan resided (1537), as
tutor to the Earl Gilbert, and here he wrote his Somnium. The original
structure (Fig. 80) is a quadrilateral keep of the Second Period, 60 feet
in length by 40 feet in width externally, with walls 12 to 13 feet in
thickness ; but it was greatly altered in the seventeenth century, when
the tower at the south-east angle, containing the staircase and the
entrance doorway, was added, and the whole of the upper part of the
Fig. 80.— Oassillis Castle. Plan.
building remodelled (Fig. 81). This is evident from the continuous
corbelling under the parapet, the roofed-in angle turrets with their late
side shafts, and the balustraded balcony seen in the north-east view.
The situation amongst the grand old trees on the gentle banks of the
Doon is very charming, and the old castle is one of the most picturesque
of the period. A large modern addition has been attached to the castle
on the south-east.
BALTHAYOCK CASTLE, Perthshire.
A massive simple keep of the Second Period. Standing on the summit
of a height surmounting a deep ravine above the Carse of Gowrie, it com-
mands an extensive prospect over the valley of the Tay. The castle is
9,bout three miles east from Perth and immediately above Kinfauns. It
CASSILLIS CASTLE
_ 133
SECOND PERIOD
Fig. 81.— Cassillis Castle, from North-East.
SECOND PERIOD 134 THE OLD MAN OF WICK
was the seat of the family of Blair of Balthayock from the time of William
the Lion. This family disputed the Chiefship with Blair of that Ilk in
Ayrshire. The keep is of the usual description, being 52 feet by 37 feet,
with very thick walls. It is still of considerable height, but has lost its
battlements, and is finished with a modern roof. The interior is also
modernised, but shows the usual dispositions, the hall being on the first
floor, with entrance door at that level, and turnpike stair in an angle to
the upper floors. The modern mansion of William Lowson, Esq., the
present proprietor, stands near, and the whole place is kept in fine
order.
CASTLE DRUMIN, Banffshire.
The remains of an ancient keep which stood on the height above the
junction of the Livet with the Avon, about four miles up from Ballin-
dalloch. It was apparently a simple castle of the Second Period, having
walls 7 feet in thickness and measuring about 53 feet by 38 feet. The
ground floor was vaulted and provided with loops. There now only
remain two walls and a part of the third. The foi'mer are preserved as
high as the corbels of the parapet, some of which still exist, and are of a
plain early form. The situation is fine, commanding three valleys, and
the ruin is surrounded with large old trees. This was anciently the seat
of the Barons of Strathavon, descended from Alexander Stuart, fourth
son of Kobert ii.
THE OLD MAN OF WICK,* Caithness-shire.
The ruins of this once extensive castle (Fig. 82) stand on a narrow
promontory on the rugged east coast of Caithness-shire, about one and a
half miles south of the town of Wick. The situation and plan of the
castle (Fig. 83) are very similar to those of Girnigoe, but the buildings
are now chiefly reduced to mere grass-grown mounds. The site consists
of one of those narrow spits of rock jutting out with perpendicular
faces into the sea, which rushes with great force up the " goes " or deep
channels on each side of it. The keep — a rectangular mass of rude
masonry — occupies the neck of the promontory, which is cut across by
a wide ditch. It still stands three stories in height, but there was
probably another story above. The arrangement seems to have been the
usual one in castles of the Second Period. The basement formed the
* The Plan of this castle has been kindly supplied by the Rev. A. Miller,
Buckie.
TlIK OLD MAN OF WICK
— 135
SECOND PEIUOD
stores, with only narrow loops ; the first floor contained the hall, with the
entrance door at the south-east angle, where the bar-hole still remains ;
the windows are very small and narrow ; the upper floors would contain
the lord's private apartments. The floors are about 9 feet in height, and
the joists rested on ledges all round, formed by the thinning of the wall
as it ascended. Beyond the keep a long narrow passage or court passed
along the centre of the peninsula, with buildings on each side of it, of
which only the foundations can now be traced. These Avere doubtless
similar to the structures arranged in the same way at Girnigoe.
Fig. 82.— The Old Man of Wick, from South-Wesit.
In the fourteenth centuiy this keep was occupied by Sir Reginald de
Cheyne, descendant of one of the Norman families who held lai'ge estates
in the North, The Earl of Sutherland succeeded to the estate by marriage
with the heiress of Sir Reginald ; and it was held in later times by the
Oliphants, Lord Duffus, and Dunbar of Hempriggs ; but there is no
record of the erection of the various sti^uctures of which it was once
composed. The Old Man of Wick is very simple and rude, and is prob-
ably the oldest of all the existing castles of Caithness.
SECOND PERIOD
— 136 —
THE OLD MAN OP WICK
BRAAL CASTLB
— 137 —
SECOND PERIOD
BRAAL CASTLE,* Caithness-shire.
This ancient keep stands on the bank of the Thurso River, six miles
south of the town of Thurso, and not far from the junction of the branches
of the Highland Railway to Wick and Thurso. The site has been long
occupied as a fortress, being conveniently situated for defence by the
river and a wet ditch (part of which still exists), and commanding a
wide extent of country. Tradition says that a castle on this ground was
occupied by Harold, Earl of Caithness, in the thirteenth century, but the
style of the building indicates that the existing structure is of a later
date, certainly not earlier than the fourteenth century, or Second Period.
The tower (Fig. 84) has the characteristics of that date. It measures
about 39 feet by 36 feet, and has walls 8 to 10 feet in thickness. The
basement has no external door, the only openings in the walls being two
PBE6EMT qnouNO FLOOR
PRINCIPAL FLOOR
UPPfB Floor
Fig. 84.— Braal Castle. Plans.
narrow loopholes with wide internal bays, arched over. The first floor
contains a hall 22 feet by 19 feet. The entrance door is at the south-
west angle of this floor. The windows are small, with wide-arched
ingoings provided with stone seats, and there is a garde-robe in the wall.
The staircase to the upper floor ascends from the ingoing of the entrance
doorway in the thickness of the south-west wall, and at the top of it
there seems to have been a door leading to the parapet walk. But the
battlements and the whole of the distinctive features of the top of the
castle have unfortunately now disappeared. The window and other
recesses of the upper floor have straight lintels. The ground floor has
not been vaulted, but the Rev. Mr. Miller says the " floors have all been
supported on heavy rough corbels, projecting at intervals all round.
Internally the walls seem to have been built with clay. The corbels of
* The Plans are from drawings kindly supplied by the Rev. A. Miller, Buckie.
SECOND PERIOD 138 CESSFORD CASTLE
the first floor are so lurge and broad that they pave half of one side
sevei'al feet across."
The castle belonged to the family of Sinclair, who at a later date
seem to have found its accommodation too limited, and proceeded to
erect another and more spacious mansion, about 100 feet by 50, in the
vicinity. The new house, however, was not carried further than the
vaults, which stood unfinished, but in perfect preservation, till 1856,
when a modern house was erected above them as a hotel, in connection
with the fishings in the River Thurso.
II. L PLANS.
CESSFORD CASTLE, Roxburghshire.
This massive Border stronghold is situated six miles south from Kelso,
and about the same distance north-east from Jedburgh. It stands on
rising ground sloping upwards from the valley of the Kale Water, and
commands a magnificent prospect of the Cheviots towards the south.
The castle is in a most ruinous state, being rent in two or three places
from top to bottom in such a manner as to suggest the idea of the founda-
tions having sunk. Being situated on the highway of communication
between England and Scotland, and consequently exposed to the vicis-
situdes of war, it was absolutely necessary that this fortress should, for
self-preservation, be of unusual solidity. We accordingly find that the
construction has been of very great strength, the walls varying in thick-
ness from 12 feet to 13 feet 6 inches, while the keep was surrounded and
fortified on all sides with enclosing walls and a moat, at a distance of
40 or 50 feet. Of these walls only a small part, as shown on Plan
(Fig. 85), now remains, the other portions having been used as a local
quarry. Outside the walls was the moat, which was much more distinct
some years ago than now. The castle is of the L Plan. The main block,
which lies north and south, measures 63 feet 7 inches by 45 feet 2 inches.
The ground floor and first floor were vaulted, as shown on the section
(Fig. 86), but both vaults are now gone. Along the south side the castle
measures 68 feet 5 inclies by 35 feet 7 inches on the east face of the
projection. The wing is also vaulted on the ground floor, but at a level
2 or 3 feet lower than the vault of the main building, so as so provide
height for the usual entresol in the wing. There are two entrance
doorways to the castle, one on the ground level and one on the first
CESSFORD CASTLE
— 139
SECOND PERIOD
floor. The lower entrance doorway is in the re-entering angle of the east
wall, and has been secured with two doors, one opening outwards and
the other inwards, one of which would, in all probability, be an iron
yett. A passage 13 feet 6 inches long through the wall leads directly
to the ground floor of the main building, which was again secured with
double doors. The lower vault was divided into two stories, the joist
holes for the intermediate wooden floor being observable along both sides.
The ground floor was feebly lighted with two narrow slits, one at each
Fig. S5.— Cessford Castle. Plan.
end (being those shown on the Plan, with steps in the sill), and the floor
in the vault above had slightly wider windows, with an additional window
in the west wall (also shown on Plan of Ground Floor).
On the left of the entrance passage a door leads into the circular stair
which runs to the top of the building, and by a passage to the dark
vaulted chambers in the wing. The smaller of these, which is only 6 feet
3 inches high, and the adjoining passage, have each a slit commanding
SECOND PERIOD
— 140 —
CESSFORD CASTLE
the doorway ; the larger chamber seems to have been the guardroom,
being near the entrance door and also close to the dungeon. The floor of
the latter (now choked with ruins) was probably 6 or 7 feet lower than
the adjoining floors, and its arched roof, now fallen, was about 3 feet
above the floor of the guardroom. The dungeon was entered by a hatch-
way in the vault. A door, up a few steps of the circular staircase, leads
to the small chamber which contained the hatch. Another door from this
staircase leads into the upper floor of the lower vault in the main building.
These doors are shown by white lines on the Ground Floor Plan.
The upper or principal entrance to the castle is at the level, or nearly
so, of the hall floor (Fig. 86) in the re-entering angle, but it is in the wall
of the wing, not in that of the main structure, like the ground floor
PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR
SE CTION
Fig. 8t5.— Cessford Castle. Plan and Section.
entrance. It is about 15 feet above the ground, and is checked for two
doors, one opening outwards and the other inwards, the latter being
secured with a sliding-bar. This entrance was of course reached by a
moveable ladder, and in connection with this there will be observed on
the face of the east wall and over the lower entrance, nearly at the level
of the door-sill, a projecting ledge, which was probably a support for a
wooden platform erected here in connection with the defence of this
entrance. From the upper doorway an arched passage leads to the stair,
off which and up a few steps is the door to the kitchen, which occupies
the wing on this floor. A few steps further up conduct to the door of
the hall in the main part of the building. The hall measures 39 feet
6 inches by 22 feet, and is well lighted by four windows (three of them
CESSPORD CASTLE
141 —
SECOND PERIOD
with stone seats), and has a handsome fireplace at the north end, with
good moulded shafts and carved cusps (see Fig. 86). Two mural chambers,
one on each side of the fireplace, enter from the ingoing of the windows.
The floor of these chambers is one step higher than the top of the window
seats (see Section), while in the south-west corner another mural chamber
enters from the hall at the floor level.
At the south-east corner of the hall a circular recess, which appears on
Plan like a corkscrew staircase, leads up a few steps by a passage in the
thickness of the wall— first to the entresol over the kitchen (the door to
which is shown by white lines on Plan), and second, by a circular passage
to a garde- robe in the thickness of the south wall. This part of the wall
Fig. S7.— Cessford Castle.
is very ruinous, but the shoot of the garde-robe still remains. The kitchen
in the wing measures 20 feet by 13 feet 3 inches. It is lighted by one
window in the east wall, and has a wide fireplace, with an oven on one
side, and an ambry with a pointed arched opening on the other. There is
a service window between the kitchen and the hall, while communication
between them was also obtained by passing through the staircase and up
a few steps. The vault of the kitchen having fallen, the floor is encum-
bered with debris. The entresol above the kitchen had a considerable
mural chamber in the thickness of the wall over the upper entrance.
Above this level there were two floors in the wing, while above the hall
vault there was doubtless one other floor, as is apparent from the Section.
SECOND PERIOD — 142 — CESSFORD CASTLE
On the outer face of the south wall, at a distance of 34 feet from the east
corner, there is an irregular upright joint in the masonry, commencing at
a height from the ground, of about 10 feet, which at first sight would
lead one to suppose that the wing was an after-building ; but a minute
examination of the work shows that this was not the case, but that the
portion of the wall included in the 34 feet must have been delayed in
execution from some cause now unknown. The broad splay and dressed
corner at the base (Fig. 87) are rather i^are features, and indicate an early
date.
Cessford Castle recalls those of Borthwick and Dundonald in the
massive construction of its walls, although the external masonry is much
inferior to that of Borthwick. The general kitchen arrangements of the
latter are very similar to those here, allowance being made for the
disparity in size of the two edifices.
The barony of Cessford belongs to the Duke of Roxburghe, and it
appears to have been in the possession of his ancestors — the Kers — since
about the middle of the fourteenth century, although some slight dis-
crepancies have arisen as to the exact date.* There is no record of the
building of the castle, but, according to the author of the Memorie of the
Somervills, who wrote in 1679, it seems to have been in existence at the
end of the fourteenth century. While we do not know from what source
he gathered his information, we are inclined to give credit to the view
that this is a fourteenth-century castle, which has doubtless been
heightened at a later date.
In the Meiyiorie^ we read that "Robert the Second, dying' at his
castle of Dundonald upon the nyneteinth day of Apryle, 1390, before his
death ther was a peace made betwext England and France for the space of
seven years, wlierin Scotland was also comprehended. | This peace gave
opportunitie to the gentlemen that had ther estates lying upon the border to
seek eftir soe much of ther rent as could be recovered in these broken tymes,
wherin for the most part the country thereabout was harassed by the English
and Scots, it being the common road for both, when they intended any
invasione upon the midle marches. John Barrone of Carnwath, being at
this tyme ordering his afi^iires in the barronie of Lintoune, was invited
over, by his cussing Sir Robert Kerr of Cessefoord, to the castle of Cesse-
foord, then his residence, distant from the tower of Lintoune, upon the
other syde of the watter of Kaill, some two myles or thereby. When at
dinner, they had the first newes of King Robert the Second his death, by
ane expresse that had come from Clidsdale to John Barrone of Carnwath,
* See the History and Antiquities of Roxburghshire, by A. Jeffrey, Vol. iii. pp.
90 and 334.
t Vol. I. p. 143.
J In 1389 a truce was established between England and France, and accepted by
Scotland. — Burton, Vol, ii. p. 368.
CESSFORD CASTLE — 143 — SECOND PERIOD
sent from liis lady, to give him advertisement of her oune sickness, and
how desyreous she was of his speedy returne."
The castle was besieged by Surrey in May 1523, and he bears testi-
mony to the massive strength of the walls, whose remains we see in part
before us still, in a letter to Henry viii., in which he says : " I was very
glad of the same appointment (capitulation) for in maner I sawe not howe
it wolde have been won if they within wold have contynued their
defFending."
The following is the account of the siege given by Jeffrey, and is inter-
esting from its showing the nature of siege operations in the time of
Henry viii. : —
"In the month of May, 1523, the castle was besieged by Surrey, in
the absence of its owner, with a numerous army, well provided with
powerful ordnance, with which he battered the donjon with little effect.
While the guns were playing against the castle, the Lord Leonard, Sir
Arthur Darcy, Sir William Parr, and others, by means of scaling ladders,
entered the barnkin, where they suffered severely from the iron guns of
the castle and stones cast down upon them. They then attempted to scale
the donjon, while the archers and ordnance kept the besieged engaged; but
notwithstanding all the efforts of the besiegers, they could not prevail
against the castle, which was gallantly defended. At last, when Surrey
was despairing of success, the warden came within a mile of the castle,
and not knowing how matters stood within the castle, but fearing the
worst, offered to give up the place on his men being allowed to leave with
their bag and baggage, to which Surrey was but too glad to accede, as he
could not have taken the castle by force of arms.
" On the castle being delivered up, it was thrown down by the
ordnance, and, while the destruction of its walls was going on, another
party went on to Whitton Fort and cast it down. In 1545 Cessforthe,
Cessfortheburn, and Cessfort maynes are in the list of places destroyed by
the army of the Earl of Hertford. In 1666 Henry Hall of Hanghead and
a number of Covenanters were imprisoned in the castle. It is said that
the castle ceased to be the dwelling-place of the Kers after 1650."
The "throwing down" and "destruction" of the castle just referred
to are, as is indeed apparent from the ruins, to be understood in the
usual limited sense, such expressions being invariably employed to denote
only the demolition of the defences of a fortress so as to render the place
untenable.
SECOND PERIOD
144
DALHOUSIE CASTLE
DALHOUSIE CASTLE,* Midlothian.
Beautifully situated on a wooded promontory on the north bank of the
Esk, about two and a half miles south-west from Dalkeith, this ancient seat
Pio. 8$.— Dalhousie Castle. Entrance Doorway.
of the Ramsays— although considerably altered and modernised, so as to
render it suitable for a nobleman's residence at the present day— still re-
tains a good deal of its old character and appearance. In approaching the
* We have to thank John Bryce, Esq., Architect, Edinburgh, for the use of Plans
of this castle.
DALHOUSIE CASTLE
— 145 —
SECOND PERIOD
BrIffTs
^5
E'iG. S9.— Dalhousie Castle.
Arms over Eutrance.
castle from the north, the first thing which meets the eye is the ancient
and noble mediaeval gateway (Fig. 88), with its arched and machicolated
recess for the portcullis, and long apertures for the beams which raised
the drawbridge, between which are the arms and crest of the family,
carved on a panel over the entrance (Fig. 89). The gateway is flanked
on the left by a great round tower (Fig. 90). This
tower, which is 32 feet in diameter, formed the
defence of the north-east angle of a great enclosure
(Fig. 91), 120 feet from north to south by 110 feet
from east to west, surrounded with a wall of enceinte
8 feet in thickness. The site slopes gradually to the
south and west, on which sides it is protected by a
sudden and precipitous drop of the ground to the
level of the flat meadow by the river-side. The great
round tower thus stands as the guardian of the castle
at the point where the site is weakest, although the
whole was formerly cut ofi" from the surrounding
ground by a deep ditch, which, however, has now
been filled up. The relics of the appliances for
working the drawbridge, still visible in the ancient
gateway, show that the fosse passed in front of the
entrance within the enceinte; but detached from it stood the keep — a
structure of the L form — the main body of which was 62 feet long by
37 wide, with a wing 29 feet by 20. The modern drawing-room on the first
floor (Fig. 91) still occupies the position of the ancient hall, and is 50 feet
long by 21 feet wide, with thi-ee windows in deep recesses in the massive
west wall. The castle has evidently borne a considerable resemblance to
Craigmillar, in the same county, both as regards the general form of the
keep and that of the enceinte. The interior of the keep has, however,
been very greatly altered, in order to render it a commodious modern
mansion, but the main walls and divisions may still be traced in the base-
ment floor (Fig. 91). The entrance was in the re-entering angle of the
main block. It was on the level of the courtyard and passed into a short
passage, from which access was obtained to three vaulted cellars. The en-
trance doorway and the doors of these cellars have all pointed arches. The
circular staircase (which seems to have been where shown on the Basement
Plan) was approached through the southmost of these vaulted chambers,
which was probably a guardi^oom, and ascended to the hall, and most
likely to the upper floors and battlements, being carried up, like those at
Craigmillar, in the thickness of the wall. The wing seems to have contained
the prison on the ground floor. It was entered from a trap in an inter-
mediate wooden floor, constituting a guardroom, of which the door and
window still exist. The guardroom would enter off" the main staircase.
At a later period an addition (shown by hatched lines on Plans) was
SECOND PERIOD
~ 146 —
DALHOUSIE CASTLE
PALHOUSIK CASTLE
147 -
SECOND PERIOD
SECOND PERIOD
— 148
DALIIOUSIE CASTLE
made, which partly fills up tlie re-entering angle and obscures the entrance
doorway. The object of this addition evidently was to provide a good
entrance lobby and staircase, such as were common in the seventeenth
century. That that was the date of the addition is apparent from the
arms and initials enclosed in scrolls still visible (in the midst of modern
additions) on the upper part of the wall (Fig. 92). These show the Ramsay
arms (an eagle displayed sable on a field azure), and the initials of Sir
George Ramsay, who was created a Lord of Parliament by James vi. in
1618, and those of his wife.
Fig. 92.— Dalhousie Castle. Panels on Staircase Wall.
The additions carried out in the seventeenth centuiy were continued by
Lord Ramsay's son William, who was created Earl of Dalhousie by Charles i.
in 1633. His initials and coronet, together with those of his wife, occur in
small pediments over two of the windows of the north front {Fig. 90), being
those nearest the portcullis gateway, and on a level with the parapet over it.
The great round tower at the north-east angle of the enceinte is still
unaltered on the basement floor, where it is of the form shown in Fig.
91, and contains a well. Access to the upper floors of this tower was
obtained by a stair which circled round in the thickness of the wall, as
shown by dotted lines. The inner portion of the wall has now been
removed, so as to enlarge the rooms in the tower.
The whole space formerly occupied by the courtyard is now covered with
buildings, but the external character of the enceinte is still fairly preserved.
The postern in the south-east wall has now been built up, but its position
is still traceable. A good view of the south-west side of the castle is given
by Grose, " as it appeared before the last alterations," showing the walls
of enceinte and postern, with its towers and defences all complete. From
this one may conceive the grandeur of the pile which is now lost to us.
The lands of Dalhousie, or " Dalwolsy," have been in the possession of
the distinguished family of Eamsay since the twelfth century, when they
were granted to them by David i., and the present site has no doubt borne
a succession of fortresses. In 1400 the castle was successfully defended by
Sir Alexander Ramsay against Henry I v. In 1648 it was occupied by
Cromwell, who addressed some of his letters from it.
RAVENSCRAIG CASTLE
149 —
SECOND PERIOD
RAVENSCRAIG CASTLE,* Aberdeenshire.
This castle, anciently called the Craig of Inverugie, is situated a few-
miles from Peterhead, on the precipitous banks of the River Ugie, which
flows along its north side. The castle is strongly situated, and was
evidently defended by a moat.
In a published lecture by William Boyd, Esq., F. R.S.E., entitled
"Old Inverugie," it is stated that "on the inner edge of the moat there
exist the remains of a dyke formed of large stones, which had served as
a defence on that ci[uarter against assault ; and three transverse dykes,
Fiu. 'Jo.- RavcDScrait; Castle. I'l.ui.
the remains of which still exist, had proved serious impediments to a
hostile party endeavouring to obtain access by the moat. Beyond the
ditch, but h\ its immediate vicinity, the ground is broken up into small
rocky ravines, on the ridges of which there are still discernible traces of
mounds and earthworks evidently designed for purposes of defence."
The walls of the keep (Fig. 93) are of great thickness, ranging from
11 feet to 9 feet, and are pierced on all sides by narrow arrowlets in the
form of a cross, a shape which generally indicates considerable antiquity.
* For the Plan and details connected therewith given in the following descrip-
tion we are indebted to Mr. Reid, Windmill, Peterhead.
SECOND PERIOD
— 150
KAVENSCRAIG CASTLE
A drawing of one of these is given along with the Plan (Fig. 93). It is
about 3 feet 9 inches high by 2i inches of opening.
Ra-venscraig is of the L Plan, and measures 83 feet from east to west,
and 73 feet from north to south, the breadth of the main body being
45 feet and that of the wing 36 feet. It is now in a state of complete
ruin, and the interior is piled up with stones and fallen masonry, all
the available dressed stones having been extracted and carried oflf up-
wards of fifty years ago, and the remainder damaged or cast down. The
entrance was on the south side near the re-entering angle. There was
evidently a door in the south front at the first floor level, as shown in
Fisr. 94.* The whole of the ground floor was vaulted, but the arches
Fk;. 94. — Raveuscraig Castle, from South-East.
have all fallen except that of the south-west chamber, which is still entire
and is about 10 feet high. The doors from the various compartments
are not shown on the Plan, as from the ruinous condition of the place
their position cannot be accurately determined. Opposite the entrance
door, in the thickness of the north wall, a straight flight of steps led up
to the first floor, where it stopped. The inner part of this wall, indicated
by dotted lines on the Plan, was doubtless built of good masonry, but
has been removed. There was a circular stair to the upper floors in the
thickness of the wall at the re-entering angle. This stair, the position
* This view is copied from an old engraving, probably made about the beginning
of this century, kindly lent us by William Brand, Esq. , Inverugie.
PORTINCROSS CASTLE
151 SECOND PERIOD
of whic]i is indicated on the Plan, rose to a considerable height above
the walls in the form of a turret, as seen in the view (Fig. 94). The
castle has not now the complete appearance it presents in the view. On
this point Mr. Boyd says : " Its external appearance has even within my
recollection undergone considerable change, and at an earlier date a round
tower, rising from the interior of the building, the massive ruins of which
are still discernible, had imparted to it a picturesque feature which is
now lost."
Mr. Boyd further states that "an apartment still exists, constructed
in the thickness of the western wall, which has been used as an oratory
or small chapel, and, within my recollection, its ceiling still exhibited
simple yet eifective decorations in colours of red, black, and yellow."
There were three upper floors, but they are now inaccessible. There
are four fireplaces in the castle, three of them being on the first floor, in
the positions shown by the curved recesses on the Plan, and the fourth
one was on the third floor. The two shown back to back are on the first
floor. The walls as they now stand are about 40 feet in height. The
holes in the inside walls for the insertion of strong joists for supporting
the wooden floors are visible opposite each other at the top.
It is not known who built this castle, but quite a fabulous antiquity
is claimed for it by local writers. Mr. Boyd does not hesitate to set it
down as having been built early in the twelfth century by a Norman
family surnamed Le Neym.
The property seems to have been in the possession of the Norman
family of Cheyne, probably from about the middle of the thirteenth
century till about the middle of the fourteenth century, when the male
line ended and the place passed by marriage into the possession of the
Keiths. This castle has considerable afiuiity with others of the L
Plan belonging to the Second Period, such as Craigmillar, Cessford,
tie, and was therefore probably ei-ected by the Keiths during that
period. In the sixteenth century the Keiths also built the neighbour-
ing castle of Inverugie, which became the chief residence of the Maris-
chal or elder branch of the family. Mr. Boyd refers to a charter
granted in April, 1589, by the Earl to John Keith, eldest lawful son
and apparent heir of Andrew Keith of Ravenscraig, of the manor,
fortalice, and castle of Ravenscraig, and in the same year it is recorded
that King James vi. "was at the Craig of Inverugie at the laird's
daughter's marriage."
PORTINCROSS CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A ruin, situated on a rough but level rocky platform, which juts into
the Frith of Clyde about two miles from West Kilbride Railway Station.
SECOND PERIOD
— 152 —
POKTINCROSS CASTLE
GROUND FLOOR
UPPER FLOOR
Fig. y5.— Poi-tincross Castle. Plans aud Section.
PORTINCROSS CASTLE
— 153 —
SECOND PERIOD
Although on a low situation (the rocks being only a few feet above high-
water level), it is a conspicuous object to all voyagers on the Clyde. On
the land side the site is overshadowed by the high and precipitous cliffs
of Ardneil, densely covered with coppice-wood. The castle is a fine
example of an early Scottish stronghold, and, although entirely neglected,
Fig. 9(3.— Portiucross Castle, from Nortli-East.
is in a fair state of preservation. The Plan (Fig. 95) is somewhat peculiar,
the wing being placed at the end of the oblong keep and not at the side,
as is .usual in buildings of the L Plan. The main block measures 58
feet 1 inch from east to west by 31 feet in breadth, and is about 35 feet 6
inches high to the parapet walk, above which it rises about 15 feet more to
SECOND PERIOD — 154 PORTINCllOSS CASTLE
the top of the existing masonry of the smaller limb, which is higher than
the main portion (Fig. 96). There is an entrance doorway on the ground
floor, and another on the first floor, both being in the re-enteiing angle,
but on different faces. The whole of the ground floor is vaulted, as well
as the hall vipon the first floor (see Section, Fig. 95).
In approaching the castle it is apparent that there has been a
wall containing an outer gateway between it and the edge of the
rock ; the checked rybat of the jamb being wrought on one angle of
the building. A path about 8 feet 6 inches wide leads to the door,
inside of which a steep and dark straight flight of steps leads in the
thickness of the wall to the first floor, where it terminates, and from
the landing a wheel-stair in the south wall leads to the top. The
central wall containing the staircase divides the castle into two parts.
The large apartment on the ground floor has the rock for its pavement,
and seems as if it had at one time been a stable. The large window at
the north-west angle (which, however, is doubtless an insertion), is pro-
tected by being opposite a place where the water is deep. All the other
windows on this floor are easily accessible, but they are mere slits.
A peculiarity of this structure is that such a small building should have
two kitchens, one on the gi^ound floor and the other on the first floor. It
may have been considered necessary, in a castle which was frequently in-
habited by royalty, that a kitchen should not only be conveniently placed for
the hall, but also that another kitchen should be provided for the servants
and retainers, who would probably be somewhat numerous. It will further
be observed from the Plans that servants or others entering by the lower
door could reach the upper floors and battlements without going through
the hall and disturbing its occupants ; while all entering by the upper
door had to go through the hall. The dark lower kitchen is 8 feet 8 inches
wide by 6 feet 9 inches long, or, with the arched fireplace, 11 feet 2 inches
long. A rough doorway has been slapped (as shown by hatched lines on the
Ground Plan) into this kitchen from the outside. That an opening should
have been cut through here during the later occupation of the castle is
nob to be wondered at, as the original entrance to this kitchen ofl" the
stair, with steps up and down in the dark passage, is very awkward. At
the top of the stair to the first floor, a door on the right hand leads into
the hall, and another on the left into the upper kitchen. The hall is 24
feet long by 16 feet 6 inches wide, and 19 feet 4 inches to the top of the
vault. There seems to have been an upper room in the vault, reached by
a doorway from a landing in the wheel-stair, but it is now built up. A
large window over the hall fireplace gave light to this apartment in the
vault. The hall itself is lighted by two large windows with stone seats,
that on the south side having evidently been enlai'ged at a later date.
A mural chamber at the south-west angle entei'S off" one of these windows.
A service window opens from the kitchen into a recess adjoining the
PORTINCROSS CASTLE
— 155
SECOND PERIOD
entrance passage. At the top of the wheel-stair there are two doorways,
both leading into the main block, one into a chamber in the roof space
over the hall, and the other into the parapet walk which runs round the
building. After passing round this walk, a flight of steps about 6 feet
wide is reached leading up to the parapet walk of the wing, which is
about 8 feet higher than the walk of the main block. This additional
Fin. 97.— Portincross Castle, from South-West.
height permits of the introduction of two floors above the kitchen, and
there was besides a place in the attic, which has evidently been enlarged
at some later period by raising the parapet on the south side and including
the walk in the room (Fig. 97). These rooms in the tower were evidently
bedrooms, and are provided with fireplaces and garde-robes.
The following interesting extract fi'om the House of Rowallan (p. 68),
serves to throw some light on the history of Portincross : —
SECOND PERIOD 156 — DUCHAL CASTLE
"Adam More de Rowallan is a witness to a charter by Robert ii.
Tergusio de Foulertone de arane terras nostras de Orqwhonyne,' &c.
'Apud Arnele 26to die Novembris anno Regni notri secundo (1372).
' Charter in the possession of Captain John Pullerton of Kihnichail, Arran,
'lineal representative of Fergus the grantee.'
" Portincross Castle, the principal messuage of the barony of Arnele,
and doubtless the place where this charter received the royal signature, is
still pretty entire.
"This fortalice has been rendered memorable by the frequency of the
visits of the first Stuart sovereign to it, as the many charters which
received his signature within its venerable walls do attest. — Vide Reg.
Mag. Sigilli, passim. Portincross, with its appropriate barony of Arnele,
was conferred by the great Bruce, in the first year of his reign (1306), on
Sir Robert Boyd of Kilmarnock, with whom and his descendants, the
Boyds of Portincross, it remained till 1737."
The castle was abandoned shortly after the restoration of Charles ii.,
after which it was occupied by fishermen and other inferior tenants, until
about the year 1739, when, having been unroofed in what was termed
" the windy January," it was consigned to ruin and decay.*
Although i-ather more complicated in its arrangements than usually
happens in castles of the Second Period, this structure seems to belong to
that date. Some of the original ari-angements have, however, afterwards
been modified.
FRAGMENTARY REMAINS.
The following are the partial ruins of a few exceptional castles
which seem to have been built somewhat after the style of the fortresses
of the First Period, viz., with a strong wall of enceinte, which probably
surrovmded a keep. Examples of similar structures exist at Craigmillar
and Dalhousie, where walls of enceinte, with angle towei^s of considerable
extent and strength, still enclose keeps of the Second Period. In the
following instances the keeps have almost entirely disappeared, but
portions of the walls of enceinte still survive. It is of course impossible
to be sure of the date of these fragments, but they are here introduced as
apparently the most appropriate place for them.
DUCHAL CASTLE, Renfbewshire.
Little remains of this ancient stronghold, and what still exists is so
buried in thick wood at the bottom of the valley of the River Gryfe as to be
* Paterson's Ayrshire Families, Vol. i. p. 120.
DUCHAL CASTLK
— 157 —
SECOND PERIOD
scarcely discoverable. The site (Fig. 98), which is about two miles south-
west from Kilmalcolm, consists of a detached mass of rock almost entirely
surrounded by the deep ravine, through which run the river and a
confluent. The sides of the rocky site are either perpendicular for a
height of about 20 feet or very precipitous. The whole position, which
is of considerable extent — being about 70 yards in length from east to
west, by 30 yards wide — has been enclosed with a strong wall of enceinte,
portions of which still remain. Outside of this wall to the west the neck
of the peninsula has been cut across by a deep ditch. The entrance
gateway has probably been at the north-west angle (marked A on Plan).
The general surface of the enclosure is fairly level, but at the south-east
angle a precipitous pinnacle rises about 20 feet above the courtyai'd. On
Fig. 98.— Duclial Castle. Plan.
this seems to have stood the keep, the foundations of which, surrounded
by a higher wall, are yet traceable.
The wall of enceinte, although greatly demolished, has been of a much
stronger character than the ordinary enclosing walls of courtyards, and
may possibly be the remains of a thirteenth-century castle. The keep,
however, was not likely so old, but in its present state of dilapidation it
cannot be further described. The whole castle is most probably a
structure of the Second Period. The estate belonged from the thirteenth
centuiy to the family of Lyle, the representative of which was raised to
the peerage in 1446 as Lord Lyle. In 1544 the property passed to the
Porterfield family.
SECOND PERIOD
— 158
BALLUMBIR CASTLE
BALLUMBIE CASTLE,* Forfarshire.
This ruined stronghold, in Murroes parish, is situated about four miles
north-east from Dundee. It has been an extensive castle, consisting of
walls of enceinte, with round towers at the corners. Two of these towers
still exist (Fig. 99), with the connecting curtain between, as well as one of
Fig. 99.— Balliimbie Castle.
the side walls. The castle measures about 70 feet over the towers, and
the ruins of the return wall extend to about the same length ; the height
of these walls as they now stand is about 15 feet.
The barony of Ballumbie was in olden times possessed by a family of
* The accompanying Plan of Ballumbie is by A. Johnston, Esq., architect,
Dundee, and the view is copied from an old drawing in the collection of the Royal
Scottish Academy, Edinburgh ; while for the historical notes we are indebted to the
Rev. James NicoU, Murroes.
TIXNIES CASTLE 159 — SECOND PERIOD
the name of Lovell, and in the east wall there is a carved stone divided
into six compartments, placed in two rows. The centre shield in the upper
row contains the Lovell arms — "three piles surmounted of a fesse waved"
{Nishet, Vol. I. p. 203). On the lower series the middle shield is blank ;
the dexter shield has over it the letters M. M., and contains in chief six
fleurs-de-lis, and a lion rampant in base, apparently the Monorgan arms
(see Stodari, Vol. i. plate 115). Over the sinister shield are the initials
I. S., and the shield bears three lions' heads, similar to what is found on a
stone in the parish church, with the word " Scote " over it. From Laing's
Scottish Seals, Nos. 720, 721, 724, and Nisbet's Heraldry, Vol. i, p. 303, it
appears that we have here the arms of the Scotts of Balwearie.
The first wife of Henry Lovell (in 1556) was one of that family, whose
initials ai^e represented by the above I. S. ; she died, and before 1561 he
appears to have married one of the family of Monorgan, whose initials and
arms are above mentioned, while the date is carved on the two extreme
upper spaces thus, ^^'' '^'^ J[l3t. To judge from the fragment of the
castle remaining, it may have belonged to the fourteenth or fifteenth
century, as it appears to be a portion of an enclosing wall similar to that
of Ci"aigmillar or Boghalh; and it is possible that this stone may be a later
insertion. The Lovells continued in possession of Ballumbie till the be-
ginning of the seventeenth century.
TINNIES CASTLE, Peeblesshire.
This remarkable ruin is situated on a steep detached hill overlooking
Drummelzier Haugh and Merlin's Grave on the south side of the Tweed,
about eight miles above Peebles. It has consisted of a quadrangular
enclosing wall between 60 and 70 feet square, with round towers 18 feet in
diameter at each angle. The tower at the northern angle still exists for
about 5 feet in height, and has three shot-holes in it. The foundation of
the western tower is visible, and there are traces of the other two. The
walls of the towers are abovit 4 feet thick, and the curtains between are
about 5 feet thick. The space within is covered with enormous heaps of
stones and fragments of walls, probably the ruins of the dwellings within
the enceinte.
In its general outline this structure (Fig. 100) bears some resemblance
to the castles of the First Period, but from the thinness of the wall of the
surviving round tower, and from its containing shot-holes, it seems to be
of later date. The curtain walls, however, are thicker, and may possibly
be portions of an original strength of the thirteenth centui'y, to which
round towers have been added at a subsequent period. Tradition gives
the castle a very ancient origin, and it has been identified with the
Alteutha of Ossian, the residence of Dunthalmo, who was attacked and
slain by Ossian at the gate of his castle.* It was probably the strength of
* Celtic Magazi7ie— Letter by Hately Waddell, January 1882.
SECOND PERIOD
160
TINNIES CASTLE
tlie Tweedies, a powerful clan in the upper valley of the Tweed, before
they built their castle of Drummelzier on the plain below.
When Cardonnel published his views about a century ago, one of the
walls and two of the towers were in much better preservation than at
present.
As the precipitous nature of the site renders the building nearly
inaccessible on all sides, it must have been a place of great strength.
Dr. Chambers mentions* that Tinnies was destroyed by royal war-
rant in 1592, But this warrant, which requires William Stewart of
Fio. 100.— Tinnies Castle. Plan.
Traquire to " dimolois, and cause be dimoloist and cussen down to the
ground, the place and houss of Tynnies," probably applied to a castle of
the same name (Tinnies) in Yarrow, which has entirely disappeared. The
Tweedies, to whom the castle now described belonged, are not mentioned
in connection with Bothwell's treason, which was the cause of the above
proclamation. By it Harden and Dryhope, in Selkirkshire, were also to
be demolished, and the Tinnies in Yarrow lies much nearer their locality
tlian that of Drummelziei-.
* Peehlesf:Jnre, p. 110.
THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND.
THIRD PERIOD— 1400 to 1542.
This period coincides with the reign of the Jameses, from about 1400 till
the death of James v. in 1542. It was a period during which the country-
was regaining its lost ground, and gradually recovering a considerable
share of the prosperity it enjoyed before the War of Independence.
Although disturbed with internal commotions, it was freer than formerly
from assaults fx'om without. Agriculture was advancing and the trade
of the country was increasing. The feudal and chivalric spirit of the
age had now leisure to develop itself and to produce that display of
architectural magnificence of which it was so fond. The higher nobles
wei'e no longer satisfied with the simple keeps of the fourteenth century,
and larger castles, with buildings surrounding a courtyard, were gradually
introduced. In the royal palaces, as previously noticed (Vol. i. p. 223),
this plan was fully developed, the accommodation at Stirling and
Linlithgow being on the same extensive scale as in France and Eng-
land, while the decorative features were also carefully attended to.
Those of the barons who could afibrd it endeavoured to follow the
royal example, and either erected new castles on the same plan, or
extended the accommodation of their old keeps by the erection of halls
and other structures round the walls of the courtyard. Efforts were
also made to follow the example of royalty in regard to the ornamental
elements.
The distinctive feature of the Third Period is this erection of new
castles and extension of old ones in the form of buildings surrounding a
courtyard. In many cases the idea is very imperfectly carried out, the
attempt being limited to erections on only one or two sides of the
enclosure ; but the eftbrt to follow the fashion is apparent, although the
means to do so completely have evidently been wanting.
While the wealthier nobles adopted the courtyard plan, those of
more limited means still followed the old forms and built mansions like
those of the previous century, after the plan of the Norman keep. Some
h
THIRD PERIOD 162 CASTLE STALCAIRE
of these are of tlie simplest design, and are hardly distinguishable from
the keeps of the Second Period, while in others various indications occur
of the greater ease of the times in the diminished severity of their style.
The walls are reduced in thickness, and the battlements are constructed
not for defence alone, some attempts at ornament being likewise intro-
duced. The accommodation is also increased by various expedients, such
as the addition of a wing to contain bedrooms, small chambers in the
thickness of the walls, &c., all as already more fully explained in Vol. i.
p. 224.
In describing the castles of this period we shall adhere to the plan
formerly adopted, commencing with the simplest types, then following
with the enlarged keeps, and finally giving an account of the structures
designed as or extended into castles, surrounding a courtyard, either
partially or entirely.
During the fifteenth century the Lord of the Isles and the island
chiefs were sometimes in revolt and sometimes in subjection, but they
seem to have followed the lead of the mainland in regard to the style
of their castles, which at this period as in others corresponded with that
of the rest of Scotland.
"We shall, as before, begin our description with the keeps of the West
Highlands and Islands, and then take up those of other districts in
succession, thus treating the subject to some extent topographically as
well as historically.
CASTLE STALCAIRE,* Argyllshire.
A well-preserved keep, occupying a prominent position in the course
of the steamers which sail between Oban and Fort William. It stands
on a sea-girt rock opposite Portnacroish at the mouth of Loch Laich, a
small branch of Loch Linnhe. This castle is supposed to have been
built by Duncan Stewart of Appin in the reign of James iv., who is said
to have occupied it as a hunting seat. The name, which signifies " the
castle of the falconer," is probably derived from that circumstance. The
first laird of Appin was Dougal, the natural son of the last Stewart,
Lord of Lorn, whose daughter carried the lordship to Argyll in 1500.
His son Duncan followed Argyll, and was much in the king's service,
and aided considerably in subduing the islaiiders. Foi- this work he
received the lands of Duror and Glencoe. In 1502 we find him again
actiA^ely employed in opposition to Donald Dubh, who claimed the lord-
ship of the isles. For his services on that occasion he obtained a grant
of the lands of Mamore.
* We have to thank Dr. Christisoii and Mr. Cossar Mackenzie for Plans and
particulars of this castle.
CASTLE STALCAIRE
— 1G3 —
THIRD PERIOD
Duncan's castle (Fig. 101) is precisely of the same description as many
erected at that date in other parts of Scotland. It consists of a simple
rectangular keep about 50 feet by 40 feet, and four stories in height.
The entrance door is, as usual, on the first floor level. It is arched and
surmounted by a panel (Fig. 102) with an ornamental but much decayed
border. The shield is said to have contained the royal arms, but the
charge is now illegible. An outer staircase has been built up to the
door in more recent times, but originally there would be no stair, the
only approach to the door being by a ladder. The stone stair as at first
built reached to the side of the door only, leaving an empty space in
front, which was probably filled with a moveable wooden platform, for
which indeed the holes at the sill are visible ; but this space has sub-
Fia. 101.— Castle Stalcaire. Plans.
sequently been built up with a solid wall from the ground. Over this
doorway a wide machicolation on two bold corbels (Fig. 103) is introduced
at the level of the parapet in order to add to its defence. The hall,
31 feet by 21 feet, occupies the whole of the first floor. It has windows
on three sides, one of them having stone seats, and a fireplace in the
fourth side. A wheel-stair in the north-west angle leads to the second
floor, which seems to have been the principal apartment, having a highly
ornamental fireplace and a garde-robe in the thickness of the west wall,
the walls being about 9 feet in thickness. The ornaments on the jambs
of the fireplace have been of considerable interest, as they seem to have
been carved with ornament of a Celtic pattern, not unlike what is seen
on some of the sculptured stones. Traces of this carving are still visible,
THIRD PERIOD
— 164
CASTLE STALCAIRE
but it is greatly decayed. The third or to^a story as it now exists was
partly in the roof and was lit by dormer windows (Fig. 104). There is,
however, every reason to suppose that when originally erected the walls
would be finished with a parapet and walk all round, and that the upper
story has been added and the dormers
introduced at a later date. The style
of work shows this, and also the
gargoyles, which have been left at
the level of the original parapet walk,
although no longer of any use. The
turret at the south-east angle is the
only angle turret on the building,
and is placed diagonally opposite the
staircase turret. It is well provided
with shot-holes, and has a curious
raised ornament in the form of a
human head at the side of the window.
A capehouse has, at the date of the
above additions, been carried up
above the staircase, and forms a
small chamber, which no doubt served
as a look-out station, commanding as
it does a fine view over the loch to
the north and west. The fireplace on
this floor has also been more than
usually ornamental.
The castle is stated to have been
re-roofed and re-floored in 1631. The
above alteration of the top floor was
probably executed at that time.
The basement floor is vaulted, and
would, as usual, contain the stores.
A stair descends to it from the first floor, and it has had a separate outer
door on the east side, with double mouldings round the jambs and arch.
This door, like that on the first floor, was defended with a wide machi-
colation, projected on corbels at the top of the wall (Fig. 104). The base-
ment has also been provided with a loop in the south gable. A small
dungeon of the usual type seems to have been entered by a trap in the
first floor at the foot of the turret staircase. At the base of the west
wall an opening occurs with a carefully dressed check in the masonry,
as if to receive a stone to close it. This was probably the outlet from
the garde-robes above ; other garde-robes projected on corbels are visible
in the west elevation. There would appear to have been a small court-
yard on the south side of the tower, as the foundations of the enclosing
Fig. 102.— Castle Stalcaire.
Entrance Doorway.
CASTLE STALCAIKE
165 —
THIRD PEKiOD
THIRD PERIOD
166
CASTLE STALCAIRE
wall are visible to the south of the keep, and the springing stone of the
arch of a doorway which would lead into the courtyard still exists at
the south-west angle. The ground to the south of the tower is the only
place on the islet where space for such a courtyard could be found. A
Fig. 10-1. — Castle Stalcaire, from South-West.
tank for water seems to have been constructed in the rock to the west
of the keep in connection with a spring which, strange as it may appear,
existed there.
The only landing place on the little islet is at the south-east angle,
where some rude steps formed in the rock ai^e still traceable.
KIMLOCHALINE CASTLE
— 167
THIRD PERIOD
THIRD PERIOD 168 KINLOCHALINE CASTLE
KINLOOHALINE CASTLE, Argyllshire.
A strong but somewhat rudely constructed keep, which occupies the
summit of a pointed rock above the Black water, near its junction with
Loch Aline, at the head of the loch. Loch Aline runs north-eastwards
out of the Sound of Mull. It is about two and a half miles long, and the
approach to the old castle is particularly beautiful (Fig. 105). The keep
is sadly mutilated, but it still partly retains the fine corbel-course of the
parapet and angle turrets (Fig. 107). There are also some remains of a
corbelled machicolation over the entrance doorway. The walls (Fig. 106)
are about 10 feet in thickness, and have deep square recesses for the
windows, which are small and narrow. Adjoining the enti'ance doorway
is the guardroom in a wall-chamber, with the wheel-staircase adjoining it.
Pic. 106.— Kinloclialine Castle. Plan.
also in the thickness of the wall. A straight stair, entering from the
recess of one of the west windows, leads to the basement, which is vaulted,
but is now blocked up. The north side of the keep (Fig. 108) shows a row
of plain corbels, corresponding in position with the enriched corbel table of
the south front. It seems not unlikely, from the massive nature of the
walls, that this keep may be a fifteenth-century structure, of which the
north elevation shows the original corbelling, and that the ornamental
work on the south side is a restoration of the sixteenth century. The
walls are to a considerable extent composed of blocks containing the fossils
of the lias limestone — a very rare thing in Scotland. The only tradition as
to its origin is that it was built by a Maclnnes, and that it was captured
by Colkitto in the seventeenth century.
KINLOCHALINE CASTLE
— 169 —
THIRD PERIOD
(/I sl^^ ■' ('i^^^i
^mM^^
ins,'"''-
Ipfyfl,'. :,/
«^ i v. '^*
THIRD PERIOD
170 —
CASTLE MEARNAIG
yf&R^^KSft^i
Fig. 108.— Kinlochaline Castle, from North-East.
CASTLE MEARNAIG, Glensanda, Argyllshire.
This castle stands on the Morven side of Loch Linnhe, opposite Castle
Coeffin, in Lismore. It occupies the summit of a conical hill of rudely
columnar basalt, which tills the mouth of a small glen (Fig. 109). We
have found no trace of its history, but from the style of the structure we
infer that it belongs to the fifteenth century. It is a small rectangular
CASTLE MEARNAIG
171
THIRD PERIOD
THIRD PERIOD 172 CASTLE MAOIL
keep, 44: feet by 30 feet (Fig. 110), with walls about 8 feet in thickness,
leaving an internal space of only 27 feet by 14 feet. A small buttress
supports the south-east angle. The entrance door is in the centre of the
east or seaward side. It is some feet above the ground on the outside,
and seems to have had a small wooden platform supported on beams
inserted in the wall, for which the apertures still exist, as at Castle
Stalcaire (see Plan). A wooden stair or ladder would lead up to this
landing, which of course could be easily removed in case of attack. From
Fig. 110.— Castle Mearnaig. Plan of Ground Floor.
the ingoing of the doorway, the staircase winds through the thickness of
the wall to the upper floor. The ground floor seems to have contained
the stores, and the first floor the hall. The north window of the latter
has a trilobed arch-head — a somewhat unusual piece of ornament in castles
of this locality and date. There was no doubt a third story above the
hall, but it would appear to have been at least partly in the roof, as there
is an indication of the battlements having existed at about the level of the
present top of the wall. The situation and surroundings are fine, but
there is little architectural interest in the building itself.
CASTLE MAOIL,* Skye, Inveeness-shiee.
A strong keep of the Macdonalds, built on a detached mass of rock
near Kyle Akin, and commanding the narrow strait between the mainland
and Skye. It was originally 30 feet 6 inches long by 17 feet wide in-
ternally, with walls 9 feet in thickness, but only those at the north-east
and south-west angles remain. The site is surrounded on three sides by
the sea, and on the fourth is cut off from a neck of land which rises about
* We have to thank J. W. Burns, Esq. , of Kilmahew, for the following particulars
and measurements.
LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLE, ETC. — 173 — THIRD PERIOD
20 feet above the tide. The walls are built close to the edge of the rock,
and the portions remaining are still of some height (35 to 40 feet), and
contain windows about 2 feet square, with wide square recesses internally
arched over. There are no signs of vaulting or rests for beams, but the
tower has been at least three stories in height. From its style it probably
belongs to the fifteenth century.
CRAIGNISH CASTLE,* Argyllshire.
This was originally a simple keep (Fig, 111), 41 feet 9 inches long by
33 feet 6 inches wide, with walls 7 feet 6 inches thick, but has now been
much altered, and forms part of a modern mansion. The ground floor is
vaulted. It stands on a detached rock on the west coast of Argyllshire,
Fig. 111.— Craignish Castle. Plan.
northwards from the Crinan Canal. It belonged to the Macdougal
Campbells of Craignish, a branch of the Campbells of Lochaw. The
character of the work seems to place this building in the same category
with Castle Maoil and other simple keeps in the West.
LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLE, Buteshire ; FAIRLIE CASTLE,
LAW CASTLE, and SKELMORLIE CASTLE, Ayrshire.
These simple towers are all situated in the same locality, round the
entrance to the Frith of Clyde, and have such a striking resemblance to
each other, both in their internal arrangements and external aspect, that
they will be best described together. The plan of each is an oblong,
which at Cumbrae (Fig. 112) and Law (Fig. 113) is of the same length,
viz., 41 feet 3 inches, and at Fairlie (Fig. 114), 45 feet 5 inches, while
* We have to thank Mr. James Edgar, Ri Cruin, Lochgilphead, for particulars
of this castle, and Mr. J. Bryce for the Plan before the late alterations.
THIRD PERIOD
174 LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLE, ETC.
the width of 29 feet at Fairlie is only exceeded by a few inches at Cum-
brae, and by 12 inches at Law. The height from the ground floor level
to the parapet walk at Fairlie (see Section, Fig. 114) is about 41 feet 6
inches, which is less than that at Cumbrae (see Section, Fig. 112) by 4 feet
EN7
=;OUND
FLOOR
SECOND FLOOR
Prii. 112.— Little Cuinbrae Castle. Plans and Section.
6 inches, and at Law (see Section, Fig. 113) by 18 inches. Skelmorlie
(Fig. 115) is 48 feet 6 inches long by 30 feet wide, and 29 feet high to
the present eaves. These figures show how nearly these castles approxi-
mate to each other in size, but it is in the internal arrangements,
especially in relation to the kitchen and hall, that their similarity
LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLK, ETC.
— 175
THIRD PERIOD
is most striking. The kitchoii and hall of each castle are both situated
on the first floor, and are reached by a wheel-stair from the entrance
door on the ground floor (see the Plans), part of the end of the hall
being in every case screened off with a stone partition so as to forni a
GF^OUNU FLOOR SECOND FLOOR
Fig. 113. — Law Castle. Plans and Section.
kitchen. These kitchens are of very small dimensions, being only about
4 feet wide by about 14 feet long. Within the kitchen, and separated
from it by an arch, is the fireplace, which at Skelmorlie, Fairlie, and
Law equals the kitchen in size. In the two latter the kitchens have
separate entrances from the stair, while at Cumbrae the entrance was
THIRD PERIOD
176 LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLE, ETC.
through the hall ; at Skehnorlie this point cannot be determined owing to
alterations. These kitchens, although rude and imperfect according to
modern ideas, show a considerable advance in refinement of manners and
domestic comfort on what is to be found in many of the small castles of
iiiiii III
t^
BH^HH
A
A
[kitchen^^^
f.
y
-a
)
\
m
r>
M
'
^J
FIRST FLOOR H
GROUND FLOOR
SECOND FLOOF
Fir.. 114.— Fail-lie Castle. Plans and Section.
the period. In most of these the cooking evidently took place either in
the hall itself or in the open air. The position of the kitchen and hall in
the castles now treated of resembles what is to be found at Saddell in
Kintyre, and at Elphinstone and Comlongan, where, however, the arrange-
ments are much more complicated.
LITTLE CUMBRAK CASTLE, ETC. 177
THIRD PERIOD
GtROund floor plain
Fig. 115.— Skclmoilic Castle. Rlans.
THIRD PERIOD
178 LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLE, ETC.
At Law and Fairlie a private stair leads to the cellar. At Cuinbrae
no such convenience exists, and was not required, according to the original
construction of the castle, as the entrance door was on the first floor (the
present ground floor entrance being an afterthought), and led straight
into the hall, so that the stair leading from the entrance door down to
the cellars was entii'ely under the conti'ol of the head of the house, and
was thus in a manner private. At Law and Fairlie the entrance door
being on the ground floor, a private stair to the cellar is introduced in the
usual manner. The cellars, which are two in numl^er in all the four
_^^^.^^
JS^ ^icri'&liiilljj^'l!g'"|
Fig. 110.— Little Cumbr.ac Castle, from Soutli-Wcst.
castles, are vaulted. Only at Cumbrae is there a second vault over the
hall. The second floor in each case is divided into two rooms, each with
its fireplace and garde-robe in the thickness of the walls.
At Cumbrae and Fairlie (Figs. IIG and 117) the corbelling round the top
of the walls is of the same design, and consists, first, of a continuous course
of corbelling, above which the chequered arrangement of corbels so common
at this period is introduced. At Fairlie there is a round angle turret at
each corner, while at Cumbrae these occur only at three corners, the fourth
corner, as seen in the view, being square. Law (Fig. 118) differs from
these in having no chequered corbelling, but it has instead three courses
LITTLE CUMBKAE CASTLK, ETC. 179
THIRD PERIOD
of continuous corbelling with tui'rcts. This castle, from the circumstance
that its lofty gahk) and chinnieys still stand, difters considerably in
appearance from the other, where these features have fallen.
Pont, in Cunningham Topographised, says : " Fairlie Castle is a stronge
toure, werey ancient, beutified vith orchardes and gardins it belongs to
Fairlie de eodem, chieffe of ther name."
Fio. 117.— Fairlie Castle, from South-East.
Dobie, in his edition of Pont, states that " this family is said to have
sprung from a younger son of Ross of Tarbet, Avho, having got the lands
of Fairlie, took from them his surname." The family is now extinct, and
the estate of Fairlie was acquired from the last survivor by David, first
Earl of Glasgow. The castle stands on a small plateau on a thickly
wooded hill-side, sloping down to the frith. Skirting the plateau there
is a deep ravine, through which winds the Fairlie Burn. All traces of
the orchards and gardens referred to by Pont have entirely disappeared,
and the place has a neglected appearance by no means pleasing.
THIRD PERIOD
180 LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLE, ETC.
LITTLK CUMBRAE CASTLE, ETC. 181
THIKD PEKIOD
Confined and narrow as the acconnuodation of sucli a tower may seem
at the present time, it is evident that a considerable amount of domestic
comfort was undoubtedly experienced within its walls. In the Testament
of " vmquhile Katarine Craufurd, Lady Fairnelie, the tyme of her deceis,
quha deceist vponc the fyift day of December" (anno 1601), " ffaithfullie
maid and gevin vp he hir awin mouthe at the fortalice of Fairnelie hir
duelling place," mention is made of "guidis, geir, insicht plenissing," with
endless stores of napery, "walkit and unwalkit," wearing apparel, and all
f ^ *^\ '-i 1-
Fig. 119.— Skelmorlie Castle, from North-East.
sorts of cooking utensils ; with stores of barrelled meat and wine, full kists,
large and small, with cattle, sheep, corn, and "beir," and numerous other
articles, all carefully priced and printed at length in The History of the
County of Ayr, by James Paterson.
Law Castle is situated on an eminence overlooking the village of West
Kilbride. "It is supposed to have been," says Dobie, "built about 1468
for the accommodation of the Princess Mary, sister of James ill., on her
marriage with Thomas, Master of Boyd, afterwards Earl of Arran," and
THIRD PERIOD
182 LITTLE CUMBRAE CASTLE, ETC.
it continued to be one of the residences of the house of Boyd till 1670, when
William, third Earl of Kilmarnock, alienated this property to Major Hugh
Bontin.
The island of Little Cumbrae was from an early period under the
guardianship of the Hunters of Hunterston, but in 1515 "a Letter was
addressed by the Privy Council to Hew, Earl of Eglintoun," making him
keeper of the island "quhill the King's perfyte age of xv yere," because
Fig. 120.— SKcliHorlie Castle. Soutli-West Corner of Offices.
Robert Huntare " is nocht of power to resist ye personis yat waistis the
samyn without suple and help."* In these circumstances we may conclude
that the castle was built by Lord Eglinton. It was certainly one of the
residences of the family, as we learn from the following quotation from
the burgh records of Glasgow, of date 1568, which is further interesting
as giving an instance of the early use of glass for windows, and the care
* Font's Cunningham Topographised, ]). 190.
BA.RR CASTLE 183 THIRD PERIOD
with which it was employed. " Hew Ei'le of Eglintoun, contracted with
George Elphiustoun, glassin-wricht, burges of Glasgow, that the said
George suld uphald and niantene the' places of Ardrossan, Eglintoun,
Polnone, Glasgow, and Cumray in glassin warke, as also the place of Irvin,"
for all which he is to receive yeai'ly " twa bollis meill, and ane stane cheis,"
" and gif it happinis the said Erie to hald hous in ony of thir foir-saidis places
when it sal happin, the said George to wirk, the said George shall have his
lueit the time that he wirks, and als when the said George tursis creillis of
glas and leid to Irvyn, Ardrossan, Eglintoun, and Cumray, the said Erie
sal caus ane carrage hors to turs the samyn out of Glasgow." We further
learn fi-om Principal Baillie's Letters that when Cromwell invaded Glasgow
he (the Principal) found refuge "in the Isle of Cumbrey with My Lady
Montgomery."
Skelmorlie Castle is finely situated about two miles south from Wemyss
Bay. It was built about 1502, and belonged to one of the branches of
the Montgomeries. In 1852 the castle was leased by Mr. John Graham,
merchant in Glasgow, and, with the consent of the Earl of Eglinton, it
was restored and incorporated with a large mansion erected by Mr.
Graham.
Fig. 119 shows what still remains of the old keep, and Fig. 120 shows
a tower which formed part of the courtyard containing the offices, which
are still preserved.
BARR CASTLE,* Lochwinnoch, Renfrewshire.
This castle is situated in an extensive old park, about one mile west
from the village of Lochwinnoch. The building is in fine preservation, and,
although vminhabited, is well cared for. It is a simple pai'allelogram on
Plan (Fig. 121), measuring about 35 feet 6 inches from east to west, by 26
feet from north to south. There has been a courtyard on the west side
containing buildings, as indicated on the Ground Plan. The entrance to
the courtyard is by a round arched doorway in the north side, which is
defended with shot-holes in the wall adjoining (Fig. 122). There was also
a wing on the south side of the keep, which existed down to this
century ; it had a door of communication with the keep, as shown on
the Plan of the first floor. The entrance doorway to the keep from the
coui'tyard is by a porch (see Fig. 123), which is, however, of a later con-
struction. There was likewise a high door over this, entering on the
first floor level, but this has long since been built up. The gi'ound floor
contains two vaulted apartments entering from a small lobby. One of
these is the kitchen, with finely arched fireplace, 11 feet wide by 4 feet 6
* The measured Plans (Fig. 121) are from drawings prepared by W. Galloway,
Esq., architect, and kindly placed by him at our sei'vice.
THIRD PERIOD
184
BARR CASTLE
inches deep. At the back of the fireplace is the usual drain, and an inflow
for water supply. The wheel-stair, which ascends to the four upper floors
and battlements, is placed in the north-west corner.
The hall on the first floor measures about 24 feet by 17 feet. It is
BATTLEMENTS THIRD FLOOR
Fio. 121. -Ban- Castle. Plans.
lighted with four windows, one on each side, and has a large fireplace in
the west wall. In the north-east corner is a mural closet, which may
have been a sleeping place, as it measures about 7 feet by 3 feet 9 inches,
and has two small slits for ventilation. There is a sink in the hall, and
also various cupboards. The joisting of the floor above has rested on a
BARK CASTLE
— 185
THIRD PERIOD
moulded projecting course of masonry. A narrow private stair in the
south-west corner leads to the second and third tloors, to which the main
stair likewise gives access. These floors were probably each divided into
two apartments, there being garde-robes provided for that number of
rooms, besides v'arious mural chambers.
The battlements (Fig. 122) extend all I'ound the building. The corner
turrets have been roofed in, and had piobably enclosing doors. The
Fic. 122.— Ban^Caslle, from North-East.
^-corbelling which supports the parapet wall of the east front is not
laid level. This has arisen either from design or carelessness, and does
not appear to be due to any sinking of the foundations. There are
various inscriptions on the building; over the porch (Fig. 123) are the
letters I. W. and M. H. On the lintel at the foot of the stair are carved
the initials L. H. I. C, with the date 1680 ; and on the battlements there
appear the letters and figures W. 0. 1699.
THIRD PERIOD
— 186
CARRICK CASTLE
Crawfurd, in his History of Renfrewshire, informs us that Barr was
" the seat of an ancient family of the surname of Glen," and that about
the end of the sixteenth century it was in the possession of a branch of the
Fersuslie Hamiltons, with whom it remained till about the end of last
Fia. 123.— Barr Castle. Entrance Porch.
century. Certain of the above initials indicate this connection, but the
castle would appear to have been erected early in the sixteenth century.
It quite corresponds in design and arrangements with Law Castle and
others of that date in the West.
CARRICK CASTLE, Loch Goil, Argyllshire.
This j-emarkably line specimen of a fifteenth-century keep is situated
near the lower end of the west side of Loch Goil, on an isolated low-
lying rock jutting out into the loch, which protects the castle on the east
side, as the wall of the courtyard there rises out of deep water. The word
CARRICK CASTLE
187
TUIRD PERIOD
" Carrick," we understand, means a craig or rock. The castle (Fig. 124) is
a simple oblong on Plan, with the nortli-west corner cut off at an angle of
45°. This angle is slightly hollowed in the lower part, and gets straight
about the middle of the height of the wall (Fig. 125). None of the
floors have been vaulted, which is singular in such an early building.
PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR
|i mil Ml j 1 j 1
PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR
Fio. 124. — Carriok Castle. Plans.
There is no projecting parapet at the top, the battlements being flush
with the general face of the walls. Numerous gargoyles were provided
for throwing ofl" the water from the parapet walk, but all of them are
more or less broken. The keep bears a considerable resemblance to
Threave in some of its details, but it is of more reflned workmanship, and
is probably somewhat later in date.
THIRD PERIOD
188 —
CARRICK CASTLE
tA
mu^m0'^^^^ III
mm
///■/.^/' '' ■'■'■
I.' I mu,
y],':!il!i^i!llltllhilh
,,;i li'iiiili II I iLv' i"r~l, I
CARRICK CASTLE 189 THIRD PERIOD
Most of the arches are pointed and moulded, the larger ones having
hood mouldings, and the lintelled windows along the top have all arched
ingoings; but the arches are not all alike — some, as shown on Fig. 12G,
are provided with broad splayed ribs, while others are moulded on edge,
and have plain polished arched soffits. Some of the smaller arches of the
windows and doors are angular instead of curved — i.e., formed by two
stones leaning against one another, as shown in the entrance to the
stair (Fig. 126). The entrance archway to the courtyard is three-centred,
and, like all the others, beautifully and accurately wrought ; indeed,
throvighout the castle the masonry round all the openings is of tlie finest
kind, composed of carefully wrought fine freestone. As not unfrequently
happens, the fineness of the stone has to some extent proved the ruin
of the structure, many of the wrought stones having been taken away for
use elsewhere. But for this intentional destruction, the building would
have remained almost entire. It sadly wants some little propping up where
damaged as above indicated ; while the south gable above the parapet
may be said to be hanging in the wind, and cannot much longer remain
in its present condition.
The approach to the castle is along the south side, where the courtyard
gate is situated. The courtyard is small, and follows the configuration of
the rocky site. The buildings along its north side are entirely ruinous.
The entrance to the ground floor of the castle was near the centre of the
east wall, but it has been completely pulled to pieces, and the whole floor
is filled up with ruins. There seems to have been no communication from
this floor upwards, except by internal ladders or stairs now gone. The
principal entrance to the castle was, as usual, on the first floor level,
and gave access directly into the spacious hall, which measures 56 feet by
24 feet.
Three of the windows of the hall, as well as the door, are provided
with bar-holes (see Plan), an unusual circumstance, and doubtless intended
for the reception of bars to strengthen the shutters which closed the
window openings. Two of these windows have stone seats in the recesses.
From the ingoings of the entrance doorway, near the centre of the
east wall, two stairs branch ofl' on either hand. Both lead upwards ; that
on the right, looking outwards, leads to the second floor only. Fig. 126
shows the entrance to this stair, with its angular top, leading ofl" the
ingoing of the door. The pointed door on the floor above, at the
south end of the castle, shows the entrance from the stair landing, and
the smaller pointed door adjoining is the entrance to a garde-robe. The
stair on the opposite or left-hand side of the principal entrance leads to what
must have been the north room of the upper floor, and from thence con-
tinues to the battlements. Both of these stairs are contained in the thick-
ness of the east wall. The passage giving entrance to them is placed, not
in the centre of that wall, but a little nearer the south end, so as to give
THIRD PERIOD
— 190 —
CARRICK CASTLK
F'0.126.-Ca,-nckCa.st,o. Soufh-Ea^t 0
irner of Interior.
CARRICK CASTLE
191 —
THIRD PERIOD
increased length for the longer stair leading to the battlements. There
are four very perfect and entire garde-robes in the castle— two on the
first floor and two on the second, nearly over each other. Their shoots,
with sloping sills, discharge on the top of the rock, and are large, and
finished with pointed arches (Figs. 125 and 127). The shoot from
another garde-robe exists near the base in the splayed north-west corner,
but where it comes from is not apparent.
On the first floor there is a large gap in the inside of the west wall,
where the masonry has been roughly torn out. This was probably the
Fig. 127.— Carrick Castle, from Sonth-East.
fireplace ; but a remarkable thing about it is that its flue must have
passed in front of one of the windows of the upper floor, which has been
built up ; but from the fireplace upwards, owing to the rough treatment
it has received, a great portion of the masonry has fallen away, which
makes it difficult to decide what the original state was at this part.
Possibly this fireplace is an insertion at a later time, and the window
above may have been built up at that time, and the chimney carried up
in the wall above the parapet, which has the appearance of being more
modern than the wall below. Adjoining the fireplace a drain leads
THIRD PERIOD — 192 — KAMES CASTLE
through the wall. On the outside of this wall, between the fireplace and the
splayed corner, there occur the rybats of an opening (see Fig. 125), but
with neither lintel nor arch on top. To this there is nothing cor-
responding inside. The fireplace just referred to (if it was one) is the
only fireplace in the castle ; but from the arched sofiit of the window, in
the splayed corner on the second floor, a flue leads up to the battlements
(it is shown in outline on the Second Floor Plan), where the stump of a
chimney still remains, so that a fire could evidently be kindled in this
window recess, and the smoke would escape by the flue overhead. This
seems rather a primitive device, and is all the more remarkable from
occurring in a castle of such fine workmanship and material as this.
In the east wall of the courtyard there is a narrow postern to which
boats can come up at any state of the tide. It is generally believed,
and it seems quite probable, that the water formerly surrounded the
castle.
We have met with little reliable information regarding the history
of Carrick Castle. Almost nothing seems to be known about it. It is
said to have been the residence of the family of the Murrays of Dunmore,
and is also supposed to have been used as a hunting lodge by the Scottish
kings.
KAMES CASTLE,* Island of Bute, Buteshire.
There are two castles of this name within half a mile of each other ;
one of these, which is not illustrated, was on the Z Plan, and is now a
total ruin.
The castle here illustrated is situated on a level plain within a few
hundred yards of the sea. It was evidently moated, as traces of a ditch
are still visible, and a burn flows past on the south and east sides.
The original building (Fig. 128) seems to have been a simple keep of
five stories in height, with one apartment on each floor. It measures
about 36 feet by 25 feet 6 inches, with walls about 5 feet 4 inches thick.
The round arched entrance doorway is situated on the north side at about
2 feet above the ground. There does not appear from the Plan to have
been any stair from the ground floor to the upper floors, so that in all
probability the first floor was reached by a ladder which gave access to
a door at a high level. As within the main tower there is no stair from
the first floor to the upper floors, it seems probable that the north-east
wing containing the scale and platt stair may be a part of the original
design, or a later enlarged edition of a small wing which contained a
wheel-stair. From the landing of this stair on the attic floor it will be
observed on the Plan that in the thickness of the east and north walls
* The Plans of this castle have been kindly supplied by Mr. Bryce.
KAMRS CASTLE
193
THIRD TERIOD
was a narrow passage with steps leading out to the battlements on the
west side. The modern O. G. roofed turret seen in the Sketch is over
this passage at the north-east corner. During some alterations the battle-
ments have been continued along the north side as shown on View ;
previously they terminated as shown on Plan.
PLAN OF TOP FLOOR
GROUND FLOOR
Fig. 128.— Karnes Castle. Plan and View from North-West.
The Bannatynes of Kames can be traced back as far as the time of
Alexander in. They appear to have been chamberlains to the Stewart
kings when Bute formed part of the royal property. The existing
structure seems to date from the sixteenth century, but the greater
portion of the upper part is quite modern.
N
THIRD PERIOD
194
IIUNTERSTON CASTLE
GIFFEN CASTLE, Ayrshire.
This ancient fortalice, which is situated between Beith and Dunlop,
occupied a strong position on the edge of a scar, and rose conspicuously
above the undulating country around, from which a most commanding
prospect is obtained. It is now unfortunately reduced to a mere frag-
ment. After being deserted for over a century, during which time a
great part of the castle was taken down, the remainder fell in 1838. ■
Some curious carved stones from the castle are built into the walls of
Giffen Mill, about a mile distant. Sketches of these and of the ruins
before they fell, with minute particulars of the castle and its owners, will
be found in Dobie's edition of Cu7iningham by Pont. "Sir William
Montgomerie, second son of Sir John Montgomerie of Ardrossan, received
in patrimony from his father the lands and barony of GifFen," evidently
about the middle of the fifteenth century, and the property continued
in the Montgomerie family till 1722.
HUNTERSTON CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A keep, with a modern house attached, standing on a level plain about
half a mile inland from the Frith of Clyde, and about midway between
Fig. 129. — Ilunterston Castle. Plans and Section.
Largs and West Kilbride. In ancient times a morass stretched round
the castle, with a protecting moat and rampart, all of which have now
HUNTERSTON CASTLE
— 195 —
THIRD PERIOD
disappeared, the morass being changed into cultivated land and a beauti-
fully-wooded park. The original keep (Fig. 129) is of small dimensions,
measuring about 24 feet 6 inches by 21 feet 6 inches, and about 34 feet
high to the top of the parapet. It contained four stories, of which the
undermost is vaulted, and was pi'obably the store. It has no fireplace,
but there is the usual stone drain, and an opening for a hoist in the arch
ovei'head, but no other communication with the floor above. The main
entrance was on the first floor, from which a wheel-stair in the thickness
of the wall led to the top. The parapet walk is protected by a battle-
ment projected on small corl)els round thi-ee sides only (Fig. 130). The
/-. \
Fig. 130.— Himteiston Castle, from North-East.
corbelling ceases near the end of the north wall (see Fig. 130), and the
parapet is continued round the east side flush with the walls of the keep.
This has probably been an alteration made when the wing was added to
the east. The walls of the keep are nearly 5 feet in thickness, and it has
generally the character of a structure of the beginning of the sixteenth
century. The keep was enlarged, apparently in the seventeenth century,
by the addition of the building shown by hatched lines on the Plan, thus
converting it into a house of an oblong plan, with a staircase turret project-
ing in the middle of the south side (Fig. 131). In this turret is the entrance
doorway, on the ground floor, and the circular staircase which gives access
THIRD PERIOD
196
HUNTERSTON CASTLE
both to the old and new parts of the structure. On one of the skew
stones of the staircase turret are the initials R. D. (see Sketch, Fig. 131).
The new building has been divided by timber partitions into apartments,
and probably at the same time the old hall on the first floor was screened
off from the wheel-staircase and garde-robe. This hall is still used as an
occasional room by Colonel Gould Hunter Weston, the proprietor, and
is fitted up as a library. The large old stone fireplace has been filled
in with a smaller one, probably at the time the additions were made.
The caps of the ancient fireplace are still in position, as shown on
the Section (Fig 129) Above it is an old painted hatchment con-
Fic. 131.— Ilunteiston Castle, from South-West.
tainins the Hunter arms, with the motto CURSUM perpicio. The
building is in good preservation, and was the family residence till the
erection of the present mansion house (which is in the immediate neigh-
bourhood) in the early part of this century. There were ranges of ofiices
attached to the castle, on the south side, which no longer exist, the site
being now occupied by a modern homestead. The small courtyard on the
south side seems, however, to be old. What remains is very picturesque,
and comes on the visitor as a surprise, owing ti) its not being visible from
any distance.
Hunters ton derives its name from the oflice of Hunter, or Venator
of the King's lands, held by the family fropi a very early period.
SADDELL CASTLE
197
THIRD PERIOD
SADDELL CASTLE, Argyllshire.
Saddell Castle is situated on the Kintyre shore of Kilbrannan Sound.
It occupies a low-lying situation at the base of a thickly- wooded hill not
far from the ruins of Saddell Abbey, and was, it is believed, at one time
surrounded by the sea.*
B/\TTLEMEI\1T5 THIRD ILOOR
Fig. 13-2.— Saddell CasUe. Plans.
The abbey is an utter wreck, but fortunately the castle is well
preserved, and is cherished with pride by its owner. Colonel Macleod.
It is an oblong keep (Fig. 132), measuring about 48 feet 10 inches by
28 feet, and 50 feet 9 inches in height from the ground to the top of the
battlements. The entrance door is on the east side, and adjoining it is a
wheel-stair, which juts into the interior of the tower and ascends to the
* New Statistical Account.
THIRD PERIOD 198 SADDELL CASTLE
top of the building. The ground floor is vaulted, and is about 4 or 5 feet
below the level of the passage at the entrance door. It contains two
cellars, from the smaller of which — that on the left hand — a private stair
leads up to the first floor. This cellar also contains a garde-robe with shoot.
The arrangement of the first floor, with the kitchen cut ofi" from the
end of the hall, recalls other examples above described, also situated in the
locality of the Frith of Clyde — viz., Little Cumbrae, Law, Fairlie, and
Skelmorlie. In these cases, however, the arrangements can only be made
out from the ruins, while at Saddell they can still be seen in their
entirety. The kitchen is 7 feet 6 inches wide, with an arched fireplace
extending to 5 feet 6 inches more. It contains the usual oven and various
ambries. Beside the kitchen, and to the south of the staircase, there has
been a small apai'tment, and the hall probably occupied all the space
noi'th of the kitchen partition, although it is now divided into two
apartments.
The second floor is divided into four apartments, three of which have
original fireplaces ; and one of the windows on this floor has a stone seat,
with a garde-robe entering from the ingoing.
The third floor is divided into three apartments ; the centre room,
which is without a fireplace, has a seat in the window and a garde-robe,
while the irregularly-shaped south room has a mural closet entering from
its window. Over the east recess ofi" this room two arches are thrown, so
as to give increased thickness for carrying the masonry of the battlements
above.
The partitions dividing the various floors into the rooms just described
are probably of a later date than the keep, as are also most of the fittings.
The gable of the capehouse over the staircase is seen in the view (Fig. 133).
It was fitted with doors, and access is obtained from it right round the
battlements, which are laid with stone. At the four corners of the tower
there are round open bartizans supported on large coi'bels, having openings
in the spaces between for defence. A similar turret occurs at one side of
the capehouse, and it is likely that originally a corbelled defence of the
doorway was continued across in front of the capehouse, but this seems to
have been altered in the seventeenth century. The parapet round the
tower is 4 feet 8 inches high, and is carried on large corbels, but of a
lesser size than those of the turrets, while the spaces between are closed.
The Bernardino Cistercian abbey, which is almost all destroyed, is
situated in a beautiful valley shut out from the sea. It was founded by
Reginald, Lord of the Isles (son of Somerlid), between 1166 and 1207.*
It remained an independent foundation till about the year 1520, when
David Hamilton, Bishop of Argyll, obtained its annexation to his See.
Previous to this, however, in 1508, " the abbey lands were made a barony,
and license to build castles within Kintyre, and fortify them with stone
* Proceedings of Society of Antiqimries of Scotland, Vol. x. p. 205.
SADDELL CASTLE
— 199
THIRD PERIOD
walls, ditches, &c., including what is termed le Muchcoling, was given to
Bishop David," who received from James iv., for the maintenance of its
keepers, the " fermes, here, and aitis " of " Kilyownane and Lochea."*
From the following accountf the castle had apparently become ruinous
in the seventeenth century : —
" Betwixt the years 1640 and 1G74, William Ralston of that ilk, who
married Ursula Mure, daughter to William Mure of Glanderston, was
* Proceedings of Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Vol. viii. pp. 125 and 128.
t Robertson's Ayrshire Families, Appendix, Vol. iii. p. 51.
THIRD PERIOD
— 200
SORN CASTLE
forced to seek shelter from the rage of persecution which at that time
prevailed in the Lowlands of Scotland; came to the bay of Saddell, about
eight miles from Campbelton, and having built the ramparts which still
remain on the Castle of Saddell, there resided for some time. She lies
interred in the churchyard of St. Colinkeil."
It was probably at this time that the present internal fittings were
put in.
SORN CASTLE,* Ayrshire.
An ancient fabric, to which a modern mansion has been added, finely
situated on the crest of the precipitous bank of the River Ayr, about one and
a half miles from Catrine. It is probable (as suggested by Mr. Railton)
BASEMENT FLOOR.
Fig. 134.— Sorn Castle. Plans.
that the south-west portion (Fig. 134) is an old keep, and that the north-
east portion is a later addition, the floors being on different levels. By
this enlargement a great hall, 29 feet by 17 feet, was obtained on the first
* The Plans have been kindly supi^lied by Mr. Bryce, and the elevations by Mr.
Railton.
BAKR TOWER
— 201 —
THIRD PERIOD
floor, and two cellars and a kitchen on the ground floor. The thick wall
which contained the kitchen fireplace and chinniey still remains at the
north-east end. A parapet, with ornamental corbelling and bartizans
(Fig. 135), has been carried round the building at the time when the
above additions were made, probably the end of the sixteenth century.
SOUTH-EAST ELEVATION
NORTH-EAST ELEVATION
Fig. 135.— Sorn Castle. Elevations.
The corbelling closely resembles that of several other Ayrshire castles of
that period, such as Fairlie. In the beginning of the fifteenth century
the manor of Sorn was acquired by Andrew Hamilton, third son of Sir
David Hamilton of Cadzow, ancestor of the Dukes of Hamilton. It after-
wards passed by marriage and purchase to the Earl of Winton and the
Earl of Loudoun, and is now the property of James Somervell, Esq.
BARR TOWER, Galston, Ayrshire.
A solid tower, standing on a rock slightly raised above the level of
the road, in the middle of the town of Galston, about five miles south-
east from Kilmarnock. It is also called Lockhart Tower, from the name
of the former proprietor, Lockhart of Barr, a family of ancient standing
in Ayrshire. The keep (Fig. 136) measures about 48 feet by 35 feet, and
the walls are about 7 feet thick. The entrance doorway is on the first
floor level, and the circular staircase to the upper floors starts from the
ingoing. The windows have wide square recesses, and are furnished with
stone seats. These, together with the numerous wall recesses in the thick
walls, and other features, indicate that the tower belongs to the Third
THIRD PERIOD 202 — MAUCHLINE CASTLE
Period. Externally it has been much modernised, and has entirely lost
its orisfinal character. It is now used as a wool store, and amidst the
|iiil|iiii| i 1
Fig. 130.- Barr Tower.
huge piled up bales it is with some difficulty that one can see and measure
the architecture.
MAUCHLINE CASTLE, Ayrshire.
The old tower of Mauchline, standing on the edge of the small stream
which runs through the town, strikes one at first sight as being somewhat
different from an ordinary Scottish keep. Its situation is not a strong
one, and its ashlar walls, its round-headed mullioned windows, and care-
fully constructed garde-robes with their covered .shoots, are features which
confirm that view. On turning to its history the peculiarity of its
character is accounted for. The lands of Mauchline were granted in
the twelfth centui'y by Walter, the High Steward of Scotland, to the
monks of Melrose, who established a cell there, and greatly extended
their possessions. In 1521 Hew Campbell of Loudoun, availing himself
of the perturbation then existing amongst the monastic institutions in
anticipation of their being broken up, made a contract with the abbot,
whereby he was appointed Bailie of Barony, and finally became possessed
of the whole as a temporal lordship in 1606. The existing tower is the
only relic of the ancient prioiy. There is nothing to indicate for what
purpose it was originally used, but it may well have been the residence of
the prior. It consists (Fig. 137) of two vaulted floors, with walls 5 feet
in thickness, and an attic floor in the roof. The outer door is situated at
the south-west angle, and communicates with the first floor by a wheel-
stair (Fig. 138) in the same angle of the tower. The first floor has been
a handsome hall, 25 feet by 20 feet, vaulted in two bays with groined
arches springing from carved corbels, but it is now in a sad state of
MAUCHLINE CASTLE
•203 —
THIRD PERIOD
neglect and decay. Besides the garde-robes, there are several wall-
chambers. The window in the north gable has been large, and is still
furnished with stone seats.
From the style of the architecture it is evident that the building
belongs to the fifteenth century. It may possibly have undergone some
repairs when it was secularised — as, for example, the square-headed
Fig. 137. — Mauclilinc Castle, from Norlli-Eust.
windows may then have been inserted, and much more recently the
battlements have been restored.
Although not, strictly speaking, a castellated edifice, this example is
important as showing the similarity in general plan and arrangement of
ecclesiastical and civil dwelling-houses in the fifteenth century.
In the eighteenth century the property had fallen into the hands of
Mr. Gavin Hamilton, an early patron of Burns, who spent much of his
time during a very eventful period of his life in this town and in this
THIRD PERIOD
— 20i
PENKILL CASTLE
house. Buildings in the style of last century had then been erected so
as to form a courtyard southwards from the tower. Of these the exterior
Pig. 138.— MaucMine Castle. Plan iif First Floor.
is seen in the Sketch (Fig. 137), and the window on the ground floor is
that of the room in which Burns was married.
PENKILL CASTLE,* Ayrshire.
This castle stands in a commanding position on the south side of the
valley of the Girvan Water, about three miles from Girvan. Before its
Fig. 130.— Penkill Castle, from South-East.
* For the Plans and View of this structure we are indebted to Alexander George
Thomson, Esq., architect, (Jlasgow, by whom they were made in 1857, when he was
employed by the late Spencer Boyd, Esq. of Penkill, to restore the castle.
PENKILL CASTLE
— 205 —
THIRD PERIOD
restoration in 1857 it was a deserted ruin, as shown by Sketcli (Fig. 139).
The oldest part of the building was fairly well preserved, having its roof
entire. It consisted (Fig. 140) of a square keep, measuring about 26 feet
6 inches by 21 feet 6 inches, and was about 34 feet high to the top of the
walls, with a round tower at the north-east corner, which contained the
Fifi, 140.— Pciikill Castlo. Plans and Section.
entrance doorway and stair to the upper floors. The stair was, however,
in a complete state of ruin. The groiuid floor was vaulted and lighted by
narrow slits in each wall. The first floor and all the other floors contained
one apartment, the former with a large fireplace and ambiy beside it. In
the north-west corner there seems to have been a garde-robe afterwards
THIRD PERIOD
— 206
CASTLE. AILSA CRAIG
slapped through, so as to form a communication to a later addition. The
second floor had a plain fireplace, with an arched window containing stone
seats. The floor above was lighted by a fine dormer window on the east
front, shown in Fig. 139, and from this floor two round turrets, one on
the north-west and the other on the south-east corner of the keep, were
entered. An addition to the castle was built in the seventeenth century
along the north end, and consisted of a building of unknown length from
east to west, by about 20 feet in width. The west gable of this structure
and part of the north and south walls were entire in 1857. In the Castles
and Mansions of Ayrshire, by A. H. Millar, F.S.A. Scot., it is stated
that Penkill was probably built about 1500, although he adds that the
late Mr. G. E. Street, architect, considered that it belonged to an earlier
period from the " style of ornamentation of one of the existing dormer
windows." "We do not know on what authority this statement rests, but
the whole style of the building would lead us to conclude that Penkill
was of a much later date. Mr. Millar further mentions that in 1628 the
addition to the castle was made by Thomas Boyd, after his marriage with
Marion Mure of Rowallan, the new building being connected to the old
by the circular stair tower, and that the arms and initials of Thomas Boyd
and his wife were placed over the door of this tower. Penkill was
acquired by the Boyds early in the sixteenth century, the first of them
dying in 1530.
The dotted line on the Ground Plan shows the addition designed by
Mr. Thomson, architect.
CASTLE, AiLSA Craig, Ayrshire.
A small keep, perched on one of the few shoulders which project from
the precipitous slope of the solitary " Craig."
GROUND FLOOR PLAN FIRST FLDOR PLAN
-1
Fig. 141.— Castle, Ailsa Craig. Plans.
The island rises abruptly from the sea, about 10 miles west from the
Ayrshire coast, opposite Girvan.
CASTLE, AILSA CRAIG
— 20(
THIRD PERIOD
On the seaward side the rocks tower above the water in magnificent
precipices, but on the hmdward side there is a small beach, composed of
masses of stones fallen from the Craig, above which the flank of the island
mountain slopes very rapidly to the summit, which is about 1100 feet in
height. On a ledge about 300 feet above the shore stands the keep (Fig.
141), the only approach to which is by a very steep and narrow footpath.
In the vicinity of the tower, but higher up the mountain, there is a good
Fio. 142.— Castle, Ailsa Craig. View from Soutli-East.
spring of water. The history of this remote and inaccessible tower is
quite unknown. The structure bears some resemblance to the Tower
of Kildonan in the south of Arran, and may perhaps have been erected
by a branch of the clan to which it belonged. In any case it must have
been the fortress of a pirate chief, who issued from it to plunder the
surrounding seas and coasts, for the island would never yield the
sustenance necessary for the captain and his crew.
THinD PERIOD 208 CASTLE, AILSA CRAIG
The keep stands on the south-east side of tlie Craig, and tlie entrance
door has been on the east or seaward side, where the access was most
difficult. From marks and projections on the wall, there seems to have
been an outer stair leading up to the doorway (Fig. 142). Outside of the
door, the landing at the top of this stair would doubtless be moveable, as
in other similar examples, such as Castle Stalcaire.
Taking advantage of the slope of the site, a vaulted basement is formed
under the eastern portion of the ground floor. This was entered by a
trap in the landing at the entrance door, and had one very small loop for
ventilation. It may either have been used as a storeroom or as a prison.
Opposite the entrance door, another door gives access to the vaulted room
on the ground floor, 1 4 feet by 1 1 feet, which is lighted with three small
loops. The door in the north wall of the landing is modern, and may
occupy the position of a loop for lighting the landing. A straight stair-
case leads from the same landing to the first floor, and is continued
upwards as a wheel -stair.
The first floor contains an apartment 1 1 feet 3 inches wide by 8 feet
long, lighted with two windows in the south wall, and a small loop in the
north wall. It is pi'ovided with an arched fii^eplace which extends the full
width of the room, and has an oven in the north-west angle. There is
also an ambry in the north wall. On this floor another small vaulted
room, about 6 feet square, occupies the space over the entrance landing.
It is lighted with an oblong window about 2 feet high, placed at 7 feet
above the floor.
An opening in the wall between these two apartments seems to have
been used as a service window. The larger room may have been the
kitchen, and the small one the larder and storeroom. Above this there
appears to have been a second floor. It is now almost entirely destroyed,
but there are recesses at the angles, which render it probable that they
were finished with turrets.
This quaint and strongly-built and vaulted little tower has few features
by which its age may be fixed. The thinness of the walls (2 feet
6 inches) and the arrangement of the stair and apartments seem, however,
to connect it with the style and date of many of the Border keeps of the
beginning of the sixteenth century.
A courtyard about 30 feet long by the width of the keep appears to
have existed on the north side, the east wall being continued northwards
about 4 feet in height, so as to level up the ground, while there are
indications at the north-east and north-west angles of the junction of
courtyard walls to those of the keep.
CARLETON CASTLE
— 209
Till HP PERIOD
CAKLETON CASTLE, Ayrshire.
The ancient tower of the Cathcarts of Carleton, a well-known Ayr-
shire family (also the proprietors of Killochan Castle). It stands on rising
ground near the sea-coast, at the mouth of the Lendale Water, about seven
miles south from Girvan. The estate has been in the hands of the same
family since the time of Robert Bruce, and the present proprietor. Sir
Reginald Cathcart, "has in his possession a charter by that monarch in
1324, and another from Robert II. in 1386."* The tower is undoubtedly
of considerable age. It is of the usual quadrilateral form (Fig. 143), and
has had a vault over the ground floor and another over the hall floor, part
of which still remains (Fig. 144); otherwise the structure is much ruined.
^iirg
p
1
w^m
►
M I I I I I I
Fig. 143.— Carleton Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
the south-east angle having entirely fallen out and the parapet being gone,
so that the architectural interest of the building is comparatively slight.
The walls are 6 feet in thickness. The entrance door was probably at
the south-east angle and at the level of the hall floor, into which it would
give direct access. On one side of the entrance passage a narrow stair
(which still survives) led down to the cellar, and on the other a wheel-
stair in the south-east angle (now demolished) led to the upper floors and
roof. There were separate stories in the vaults over the basement and
hall, so that the tower was at least five floors in height. Some traces
still exist of a wall enclosing a courtyard on the tongue of land between
two burns, on which the tower .stands, with vestiges of towers at the
angles.
* Paterson's History of Ayr and Wigton, Vol. ir. p. 135.
THIRD PERIOD
— 210 —
LOCHNAW CASTLE
Fio. 144.— Caileton Castle, from Soulli-East.
LOCHNAW CASTLE, Wigtonshire.
This castle is situated iii the parish of Leswalt, on a small fresh-
water loch about five miles west from Stranraer. The locality is one of
considerable beauty, and the utmost has been done to develop the
natural features of the scene, so that the surroundings of the castle are of
a very charming description.
The old keep is completely cast into the shade by a large modern house
which has been erected beside it, the towers of which are seen in the
View (Fig. 145).
The old building (Fig. 146) consists of a square sixteenth-century keep at
the south-east corner of a courtyard, which is surrounded with ranges of
seventeenth and eighteenth-century buildings. The keep is a small struc-
LOCIINAW CASTLE
211
THIRD PERIOD
'^?llS
Fig. 140.— Lochnaw Castle. Plan.
THIRD PERIOD
212 —
LOCHNAAV CASTLE
ture, about 23 feet square, containing one apartment on each floor, with a
continuous wheel-stair in the north-west corner, flnished at the top with a
picturesque capehouse (Fig. 147). Adjoining this a portion of the parapet is
projected, so as to form an aperture or machicolation for defending the
door by dropping down stones or other missiles. On the east parapet a
Fio. U7.— Lochnaw Castlo, from Nortli-East.
projection is corbelled out to form a passage round the chimney, at
each side of which there are small shot or spy-holes.
Tlie buildings on the south and west sides of the courtyard were
erected by Sir Andrew Agnew and his wife. Dame Anna Stewart,
daughter of the first Earl of Galloway. Their initials, with the Stewart
RUSCO CASTLE 213 THIRD PERIOD
arms and date (16G3), may be seen on the dormers (Fig. 147). They are
also carved in another place, with the inscription, '* Except the Lord
Builde the House they Labour in vaine that Builde."
The range on the north side is dated 1704.
The family of Agnew, as is well known, have been possessed of
Lochnaw from almost the beginning of written Scottish history. Whether
tlie foHowing inscription, which exists at the house, refers to the existing
keep may, however, be doubted —
DOM. A N D R
EAS. AGNEV
1426
NOMEN. DOMI
NI. FORTISSI
MA. T U R R I S.
Tn The Ilertditunj Sheriffs of Galloway an earlier castle is spoken of
as being situated on an islantl in the loch. This, along with the lands,
was forcibly taken possession of and blown up by Archibald the Grim in
1390. In 1426 the Douglases resigned the Bailiery of LesAvalt back to
Andrew Agnew, and he is said to have then built this tower. It bears
some resemblance to Law and Barr Castles in Ayrshire, and may be classed
with them in the Third Period. When the first Statistical Account was
written, there were vestiges of the fosse to be seen on the south side,
and it is further stated that at that time the loch was drained.
RUSCO CASTLE, Kirkcudbrightshire.
A tower situated in the valley of the Fleet, about three miles north
from Gatehouse. It stands on a sloping hillside, and is completely over-
looked from the public road, which passes it about 100 yards to the west-
ward. The Plan is a simple oblong (Fig. 148), measuring 37 feet 9 inches
from north to south, by about 28 feet 8 inches from east to west, and the
tower is 49 feet 6 inches high to the top of the parapet. The entrance is
on the ground level in the centre of the east front ; and to the right on
entering, in the thickness of the wall, is a small guardroom. A passage to
the left leads to a wheel-stair in the south-east corner, which ascends to
the top, and is defended at the foot with a strong door. The ground floor
is vaulted, and contained a room in the vault, the entrance to which is
seen in the Section (Fig. 148), about 8 feet 9 inches above the ground.
This was probably the sleeping-place for herds and servants, while the
ground floor might accommodate horses or cattle. In the south-west
corner of the ground floor there is a circular recess, the purpose of which
is not now apparent ; but it may have been intended to contain a private
THIRD PERIOD
214 —
RUSCO CASTLE
stair from the hall to the cellar. The first and second floors are good
apartments, well lighted, with handsome fireplaces of the usual Scottish
type, similar to that of Ruthven Castle.* The apartment in the roof,
shown on Plan, is without a fireplace. It enters oflf the stair, which
continues for a few steps up to the battlements. The parapet walk is
paved with stone slabs in the usual manner, yiie cprbels supporting the
U
SE-CTION
Pig. 118. — Rusco Castle. Plans and Section.
parapet wall are of the chequered type common in the fifteenth century
(see enlarged Sketch, Pig. 149). It will be observed (Fig. 150) that the
large windows have each over their lintels a splayed projecting weathering
for throwing ofi" the rain — a rather unusual expedient in Scottish castles.
The entrance doorway (Fig. 151) is peculiar, being spanned with a
joggled arch, nearly straight, but having a slight curve, with rounded
* Vol. I. p. 397.
RUSCO CASTLE
— 215 —
THIRD PERIOD
corners. Above it is ;i moulded panel containing two shields, but tlieir
bearings are worn away and illegible. The supporters of the upper one —
two unicorns — are, however, quite distinct, and
probably were attached to the royal arms. Above
one of the shields is the initial IST, and above the
other there is, acccording to Lands aiid their
Owners, a hunting-horn, "pertaining to the arms
of the Blairs of Dunskey." On one side of the
lower shield can be faintly seen the figures 65
— probably for the date 1565. Although the
author of Lands and their Owners considers the
house to have been built by the Ackersons, who possessed the estate
previous to the sixteenth century, that does not seem, to judge from its
5N
Fig. 149.— Rusco Castle.
Corbels at Parapet.
Fig. 150.— Rusco Castle, from South-East.
THIRD PERIOD
— 216 —
UUSCO CASTLE
style, to be at all likely. Besides, he also says that in the lower shield
" are the arms of the Gordons, with the usual boar's head, &c.," and we
shall presently see that they were the probable builders. He further
mentions (as already pointed out) that the upper shield contained the "lion
rampant, with two unicorns as supporters, which latter belongs to royalty."
An extensive addition to the structure, shown by hatched lines on
the Plan, was made at a later period to the north, with a communication
roughly knocked through on the ground floor. It measured 57 feet 4
inches in length by 21 feet 9 inches in breadth. This wing is now quite
Pig. 151.— Rusco Castle. Entrance Doorway.
4
ruinous, and is used as cattle sheds. It has a projecting staircase turret
on the west side. The old tower is still inhabited by farm labourers.
From Lands aiid their Owners we learn that this estate belonged to a
family named variously Carson, Kersane, or A'ccarson, styled of Glen or
Glenskyreburn, the ancient name of Rusco previous to the seventeenth
century. The estate passed to Sir Robert Gordon by his marriage with
the daughter of Sir Robert Corsane. He assumed the title of Glen, and
afterwards of Lochinvar on his brother's death at Flodden. Sir Robert
died in 1520. "In 1574, it is mentioned that Sir John Gordon of Loch-
invar then resided at Rusco."
The castle was probably erected by the Gordons in the first half of the
sixteenth century.
HOLLOWS TOWER 217 THIRD PERIOD
HOLLOWS TOWER, Dumfriesshiue.
This typical Boi-der keep was the residence of the famous Johnnie
Armstrong, whose fate at the hands of James v. is the subject of many
Border songs and laments. It is picturesquely situated in the valley of
the Esk, between Canonbie and Langholm. The north end of the tower
stands on the edge of a steep bank which slopes down to the haughs by
the river. The bank slopes more gradually along the west end, where the
entrance to the tower is situated. The building (Fig. 152) measures 33
feet 5|- inches from north to south, by 25 feet 4 inches from east to west,
and from the ground to the lowest level of the parapet walk it measures 40
feet, and about 16 feet additional to the highest part of the ruined beacon.
It contains a vaulted ground floor, 10 feet 5 inches high, with shot-holes
to north, south, and west. There was probably a courtyard on the east
side, which may account for the absence of shot-holes there. Above the
basement are three stories and an attic. The entrance door leads directly
into the staii-case, which is constructed in the south- west corner, and
partly projects into the rooms inside. The mouldings round the door
consist of three flat beads separated by flllets. The entrance evidently
was secured by an outer door of wood and an iron yett ; these are shown
at A and b. Fig. 153. Each floor contains only one apartment, measuring
25 feet 10 inches by 16 feet 5 inches. The first floor has two windows,
about 2 feet wide by 4 feet high, with stone seats, and a small window
about 14 inches wide, high up from the floor, in the south end. In the
opposite end is the fireplace, the projecting jambs of which have a bead-
moulding round them. The joists of the upper floors were supported on
projecting corbels, placed unusally close together, being only about 2 feet
apart. The apartments on these floors are all very similar ; that on the
second floor only having a fireplace. There are thus only two fireplaces
in the tower. The corbelling along the top is continuous, and consists of
five projections, the three upper courses of which are treated as a series
of alternately projecting and receding portions of a band (as shown in
Fig. 153). Above these is a cable moulding which was wrought to go
round the gargoyles which projected at this level.*
The chief peculiarity of Hollows is its beacon lantern, perched like a
church belfry on the apex of its south gable. Built beacons like these
were undoubtedly frequent adjuncts of Border keeps ; and although most
of them have now disappeared, a few, such as Elchieshields and the Tower
of Repentance, still exist. Thus, John Leslie, Bishop of Ross, in his
History of Scotland, written about the middle of the sixteenth century,
* For the Sketch (Fig. 153) we are indebted to R. 1). Armstrong, Esq., from
whose History of Liddesdale the following historical particulars regarding Hollows
are chiefly derived — pp. 77 and 227.
TIIIKD PERIOD
218 —
HOLLOWS TOWER
(
GROUND rLooi?[,,,,l,,,,| I j FIRST FL
OOR
Fig. 152. - Hollows Tower. Plans and View from South-West.
HOLLOWS TOWER
219
THIRD PERIOD
says : " Thie Mersemen in our age, against the suddan entring of the
ennimie, to lat sie quhan danger is, thay kendle bleises in tour heidis,
or heicher places."* The system of giving warning by beacon fires was
thoroughly understood on the Borders, and was the subject of regulation
by Parliament.
In 1570 the Earl of Sussex issued an order to the English Wardens
on the Borders as follows : — " Everie man that hath a castle or a tower of
!> PLAN OF ENTRANCE OOORWA),'
FiG. 153.— Hollows Tower. Plan of Entrance Doorway and View of South Gable.
stone shall upon everie fray raysed in thie night, give warning to the
countrie by fire in the topps of the castle or towre in such sort as he shall
be directed from his warning castle," &c.
The Armstrongs first appeared in this district early in the sixteenth
century, when the redoubtable Johnnie Armstrong, or " Gilnockie," as he
is frequently called, settled on the church lands of Canonbie, and erected
this tower at a place called the Hollows. The clan built others in the
district, all evidently contrary to an Act of 1528, which says : " Gyif ony
* Scottish Text Society, p. 10, Part i.
THIRD PERIOD 220 COCKBUUNSPATH TOWER
man intendis to big oiiy biggings upon the bordouris of this realme, neir
unti Ingland, or ony strenth or fortalice, the king and his counsal willis
to desist and ceis thairfra ; and gi£ ony thing be biggit, to destroy the
samin, untill his grace and counsal be adveset thairwith," &c.
About this time Lord Dacre, from the English side, having resolved
to root out the Armstrongs, who were giving constant trouble on all sides,
brought a force against Hollows and burned it. The Armstrongs obtaining
intelligence of Caere's intention and movements, marched into England
and burned his place of Netherby on the same day as Hollows was
destroyed. Again, in 1527-28, the English Warden marched into the
Armstrongs' country with a force of about 2000 men, when their principal
exploit was an attack on the Hollows, which they once more burned.
During another forage into the debateable land, Dacre attacked a
"strong peel belonging to 111 Will Armistrounges, which was built in
such a manner that it couth not be brynt ne destroyed until it was cut
down with axes."
As is well known, Johnnie Armstrong was hanged by James y. in
1530, during his expedition througli the Borders to suppress the lawless-
ness of this district.
BEMERSYDE, Berwickshire.
A mansion, two and a half miles north-west from St. Boswells, the
seat for centuries of the family of Haig of Bemersyde. It consists of a
central peel of 1535, to which considerable additions have been made.
BILLIE CASTLE, Bkuwickshire.
A complete ruin, about two miles north of Chirnside. It stood on a
grassy knoll, surrounded by a marsh, and belonged first to the Dunbars, who
were succeeded by the Earl of Angus. Earl Archibald stayed here while
Tantallon was besieged by James v. in 1528. In 1540 it was annexed
to the Crown, and subsequently bestowed on the Rentons, descendants
of the ancient foresters of Coldingham. The castle was destroyed by
Hertford in 1544, and is now only recognisable by a few grass mounds.
COCKBURNSPATH TOWER, Berwickshire.
A ruin, about one and a half miles south of the railway station, on the
bank of a small stream. It consists (Fig. 154) of the ruins of a keep and
some outbuildings in the courtyard, with an arched gateway in the south
side. The keep has been 35 feet long by 29 feet wide. The north and
COCKBURNSPATII TOWER
221
THIRD PERIOD
west walls are in fair preservation, but the remainder is much ruined.
Towards the base the north wall is stepped out and strengthened in a
peculiar manner. The offices are one story high and vaulted, with loops
in the outer wall. The north-east apartment contains a good seventeenth-
century doorway (see Fig. 155). This tower was held in early times by
HUHflHB^H
GROUND PLAN
4 T ^
Fig. 154.— Cockbumspath Tower. Plan and Elevation.
the Earls of March, on condition that they purged the Merse and Lothian
of thieves and robbers. It afterwards was in the hands of the Earls of
Dunbar, and on their forfeiture in 1435, it reverted to the Crown. The
keep and property were assigned as the jointure of Margaret, queen of
James iv. They are now the property of the Earl of Home.
-/
/f^
(3^^%
Fif!. 155. — CnekbnrnspaUi Towor. Doorwny in Offices.
THIRD PERIOD
222
PAST CASTLE
FAST CASTLE, Berwickshire.
The crumbling fragments of a great keep, built above an inaccessible
cliff on a promoiitory of the east coast, about seven miles east of
Cockburnspath. The adjoining cliffs of the mainland are of great height.
Pio. 150.— Fast Castle. Plau.
and tower high above the platform on which the castle stands. The
platform {Fig. 156) is 260 feet long by 88 feet broad at the widest part,
and is surrounded with precipitous rocks (Fig. 157), which descend sheer
down into the ocean. The approach to this platform was by a drawbridge
Fio. 157.— Fast Castle, from South-East.
FAST CASTLE
223 —
THIRD PERIOD
over a chasm 20 feet in width. The remains of a round tower which
guarded the entrance gateway are still observable on the castle side.
Within this stood a keep 30 feet in width, but the length of which cannot
be ascertained from the existing ruins. The north-east wall still remains
as high as the corbelling, and two corbels are still observable in situ, but
all the rest of the structure is completely destroyed It has the appear-
ance of having been blown up, as a large mass of masonry, with eight
corbels embedded in it (Fig. 158), has been thrown to the ground and com-
pletely turned upside down ; but we understand that this was the result
of thunderstorms in 1871, when the battlements were struck by lightning,
and the whole of the upper part of the structure was ruined. The fate
which Sir Walter Scott pictured as happening to Wolf's Craig (of which
Fast Castle was the prototype) has thus now been realised. An ambry in
Fig. 158.— Fast Castle, from North.
the wall of the first floor (see Fig. 157) contains a rudely-cut old Gothic arch-
head. Portions of a surrounding wall are observable here and there. A
piece about 12 feet long, with staircase for access to the parapet, stands
detached at the north end of the platform.
Judging from the style of the corbelling, the building probably belongs
to the Third Period. In 1333 Fast Castle was a Government fortress, and,
like many Border strengths, it often changed hands. The place was held
by the English in 1410, when it was surprised and taken by Patrick, son
of the Earl of Dunbar, with 100 men. In 1467 it was the property
of the Homes, by whom the castle was rebuilt in 1521. It again fell
into the hands of the English, but was recovered by a bold stratagem in
1548. In 1570 it was invested by Sir William Drury, on his way to
besiege the castle of Edinburgh, "leaving in it a garrison of ten, or,
according to some, fourteen men — a force which was considered adequate
for holding it out against all Scotland." It belonged at that time to the
Homes, but passed by marriage, in 1580, to Logan of Restalrig ; and a
strange tale is told of an agreement between him and Napier of Mer-
THIRD PERIOD — 224 LENNOX CASTLE
cliiston in 1594, regarding a search by the latter, through some mysterious
power, for treasure supposed to be hid within the walls.
Access to the castle was oljtained by means of boats from the sea. A
cavern penetrates the rock beneath the keep, and it is supposed that there
existed a staircase which communicated between the castle and the cave.
Had the Gowrie conspiracy prospered, this would probably have been the
passage by which the king, James vi., would have passed to his prison in
Logan's castle above.
LENNOX CASTLE, Midlothian.
A ruin, situated aljout one mile west from the village of Currie.
Judging from its remains, it has been an important structure and of great
strength. It occupies the summit of a lofty ridge on the right bank of
the Water of Leith. It is isolated on all sides, and is surrounded on the
south and west by extensive earthworks. The north wall, standing on
the edge of the steep bank, and the east wall having a small ravine
beyond it, were sufficiently protected by nature. The remains of old walls
FiQ. 159.— Lennox Castle. Plan.
may be traced close to the castle, and it is probable that it was enclosed
towards the south. The main structure (Fig. 159) is an oblong keep,
measuring 57 feet from east to west by 33 feet 2 inches, with walls about
7 feet 6 inches thick. The south wall is very ruinous, but the other
three walls remain to a height of 12 or 15 feet. The entrance doorway,
which is round-headed, is near the east end of the north wall. It has an
aperture for a sliding bar behind the door. The ground floor was vaulted,
and was divided into three spaces, which were probably lighted from
loops in the demolished south wall. The wheel-staircase was in the
north-east corner, adjoining the entrance doorway. The great hall on the
first floor was likewise vaulted with a waggon vault, running from end to
BLACKNESS CASTLE
— 225
THIRD PERIOD
end, and had no intermediate flooi*. The remains of the fireplace exist at
the west end.
The history of the castle is obscure. It appears to have been a
frequent residence of the Stewart kings, and it is said (Ordnance Gazetteer
of Scotland) to have passed from James vi. into the possession of George
Heriot ; but there is no mention of this in his Life.
BLACKNESS CASTLE, Linlithgowshire.
A very ancient strength, and at one time one of the most important
fortresses in Scotland. The name of Blackness occurs frequently in the
history of the disturbances of the fifteenth century. In the seventeenth
century the castle was made into a prison for distinguished Covenanters.
It is now converted into an ammunition depot. For this purpose its
structure has been changed, and, owing to the precaution now necessary
for safety, it is with difficulty that its ancient portions can be examined
and defined.
Fio. 160.— Blackness Castle, from East.
The castle stands on a rocky promontory which projects into the
Frith of Forth, about three and a half miles east of Bo'ness and a like
distance from Linlithgow, of which town, in its palmy days. Blackness
was the seaport. The building seems to have comprised a strong oblong
tower or keep (Fig. 160), with a circular staircase tower at the north-east
angle. This staircase tower has probably been added at a date subse-
quent to the erection of the keep. The keep is still preserved, although
much altered, and stands detached within a considerable space of ground,
surrounded with a strong wall. A large part of the latter still remains
(see Fig. 160), having a thick parapet, with large port-holes or embrasures
for cannons cut through it, similar to those of Queen Anne's time at
THIRD PERIOD
— 226 —
BLACKNESS CASTLE
Stirling. Fig. 161 (from a drawing by Mr. Hutton in 1782, preserved in
the library of the Royal Scottish Academy) shows the keep, with its
parapet entire. The other buildings are a congeries of old and new
structures, of which little can be made without more careful examination
Fig. 161.— Blackness Castle. The Keep.
than is now permissible. But, however interesting to the archpeologist,
this would appear from an architectural point of view to be unnecessary, as
there is little chance of any details or other architectural features of
interest being discovered. Fig. 162 (from a sketch made by D. Allan in
Pio. 162. — Blackness Castle. View from South-East.
1794, also preserved in the Royal Scottish Academy) shows the landward
or south front, the interior of which is seen as it now stands in Figs. 160
and 161. The exterior has been deprived of its parapet, and the walls
are heightened and covered with a plain roof.
CRAIGLOCKHART OASTLK
227
THIRD PERIOD
CRAIGLOCKHART CASTLE,* Midlothian.
A fragment situated at the base of Craiglockhart Hill, about two
miles west from Edinburgh. It has been a keep (Fig. 163) 28 feet by 24
feet, with walls 5 feet in thickness. The entrance doorway and wheel-
staircase are, as usual, at one corner. The gi'ound floor is vaulted (see
Section), and the arch, being about 15 feet in height, has provided space
for an upper loft^the corbels to cai'ry the floor of which, and the windows
PISCINA AT A.
^i^t|t++^
Fia. 163.— Craiglockhart Castle. Plans, Section, and Elevation.
to light it, still remain. The hall floor has also been vaulted, and has
had an intermediate wooden floor, forming a chamber in the vault.
The upper part of the structure is now demolished, and few features
remain to enable its date to be fixed. It seems, however, to belong to
the Third Period, and tradition connects its history with the Lockharts
of Lee.
* We are indebted to Mr. James A. L. Kennedy for the iUustrations of this
castle.
THIRD PERIOD
228
KINNEIL
KINNEIL, Linlithgowshire.
This ancient possession of bhe Hamiltons stands on the brink of a
ravine, which cuts through the high and precipitous bank of the Frith of
Forth, about a mile west from Borrowstounness. The property was
bestowed on the above family by King Robert the Bruce, and still con-
tinues in the hands of the Duke of Hamilton.
The existing structure (Fig. 164) consists of two parts, viz., an oblong
keep, to which wings have been added, and a block of building to the
north-east, which may at one time have formed a separate house.
Fig. 164.— Kinneil. Plan.
The keep is an oblong block, 56 feet 6 inches long by 31 feet 6 inches
wide, with walls fully 6 feet in thickness. The ground floor is vaulted,
and the western wall (which is unaltered) still shows at that level three
shot-holes, of the large horizontal kind, 2 feet 6 inches in width. The
first floor is occupied as a great hall, 41 feet 6 inches long by 20 feet
broad; but in other respects this structure has been completely trans-
formed through the subsequent additions and alterations to which it has
been subjected. The position of the original entrance doorway and stair-
case cannot therefore now be traced, and few features remain to indicate the
date of the keep. It is probably, however, a building of the Third Period.
The house, lying to the north-east of the keep, has in all probability
KINNEIL
— 229
THIRD PERIOD
THIRD PERIOD
— 230
KINNEIL
been originally constructed as a detached building of the L Plan, with the
staircase in the re-entering angle. The rooms which fill up the angle
of the L have the appearance of an awkward addition, especially opposite
the staircase, and do not fit in as if they formed part of the original
design. This mansion was very likely erected at the time when the
keeps were often abandoned and more comfortable dwellings erected,
either round a courtyard or otherwise.
This castle (i.e., the keep) was greatly repaired by the Regent Arran,
and was soon afterwards plundered and burned by the opponents of Queen
Mary in 1568-70. Most likely when quieter times came it was considered
more sviitable to erect the detached mansion than to restore the keep, and
the adjoining house was accordingly then built. The elevation shows that
the latter has a good deal of the character of a Scottish seventeenth-
century mansion. Later in the same century, during the reign of
Charles ii., the Duchess Anne and Duke William resolved to combine
the whole buildings, including both the keep and the detached mansion,
into one imposing edifice. They therefore added the two wings at the north
and south ends of the keep — the former serving to unite the keep with
the detached mansion by means of a skewed doorway, and the latter con-
taining a great square staircase, with the heavy stone balustrade of the
period. This staircase only led to the first floor, the upper floors being
reached by the two circular staircases adjoining the wings. The keep was
at the same time crowned with a classic cornice and balustrade (Fig. 165),
and the windows were enlarged and arranged in regular rows, to match
those in the symmetrical wings. A central doorway, with classic mould-
ings, completed the transformation. It should, however, be observed that
the original solid parapet remains on the back or western side of the
keep. The house now became a gi-eat but rambling edifice — the hall of
the ancient keep serving as the dining-room, while the hall of the detached
mansion became the modern drawing-
room. The north-east room on the first
floor of the latter house is vaulted, and
was probably used as a fire-proof private
room.
The arms of the above-named authors
of the transformation just described are
contained in a fine panel (Fig. 166) on the
east front. We have here in the right
shield the Hamilton arms and motto, and
in the left what appear to be the Hamil-
ton and Douglas arms, quartered, pro-
bably, for the Duchess Anne and her
husband. Lord William Douglas, who was made Lord Selkirk and
subsequently Duke of Hamilton for life.
Fig. 166.— Kinneil. Arms.
MAINS CASTLE
231
TIIIKD PEIUOD
The situation of the house is line, and it is approached by an avenue of
splendid trees. Besides the interest attaching to it as the ancient seat of
the Hamilton family, it is noteworthy in modern history as the place
where Dugald Stewart wrote many of his works, and where James Watt
brought some of his improvements on the steam-engine to perfection.
It is said that the building was once richly decorated internally, but
the upper floors of the keep seem never to have been finished — the
standard partitions remaining unplastered till the present day.
MAINS CASTLE, Lanarkshire.
This castle is situated in an upland district, about one mile north from
East Kilbride. It stands on a grassy knoll overlooking a narrow vale,
with higher hillocks behind it. The structure, which is practically entire,
DRAIN
GROUND FLOOR
Fig. 167.— Mains Castle. Plans and Section.
and has lately been judiciously repaired, is an oblong on Plan (Fig. 167),
measuring 37 feet 7 inches from east to west, by 26 feet 10 inches from
north to south. It is 41 feet 3 inches high to the parapet walk at the
battlements, and about 12 feet more to the ridge. The entrance (Fig.
THIRD PERIOD
232 —
MAINS CASTLE
168) is in the south side by a round-headed doorway near the south-west
corner, where also, in the thickness of the wall, a wheel-stair leads to the
top and to the intermediate floors. The ground floor is vaulted, and
contained a loft in the vault (see Section, Fig. 167), the lower division
Fig. 168. — Mains Castle, from South-West.
being lighted by two slits. The entresol or loft in the vault is reached by
a passage in the west wall leading off the stair (see entresol. Fig. 167);
and in the same wall beyond the passage there is a chamber with a hatch
in the floor, giving access to an arched dungeon or cellar, which is quite
dark, and from which there seems to have been a small opening into the
CATHCART CASTLE — 233 — THIRD PERIOD
ground floor, about 12 inches square, now built up. The hall (Fig. 167)
occupies the first floor, and is 24 feet 11 inches long by 16 feet 2 inches
wide. It is lighted by two windows, which have stone seats. The fire-
place is quite plain, and is in the east wall. There is a garde-robe in the
north wall, and a chamber in the west wall over the one below. In the
passage leading from the hall door to the stair there is a stone sink, which
seems to indicate that the hall also served as the kitchen. The floor above
enters directly ofl" the stair, and was divided into two rooms, each with a
fireplace, and contained a mural chamber and garde-robe over those below.
The stair terminates at the battlement walk with a square turret, which
is covered with a flat stone roof (Fig. 168), and was probably finished
originally with a crenellated parapet. The parapet of the battlements is
gone ; it was projected over a row of corbels, the lower member of which
is continuous.
The lands of Kilbride became the property, in 1382, of the ancient
family of Lindsay of Dunrod, in Renfrewshire. The Rev. Mr. Ure, in his
History of East Kilbride, says that the Lindsays lived at Mains, " in
great wealth and splendour," till about the end of the seventeenth
century, when they had to sell the estate. The towxr, however, re-
mained habitable till about the year 1723, when the roof was taken
off" to provide slates for some office houses. Mr. Ure mentions that the
castle was an "extensive habitation," and that when he wrote (in 1793)
it was wholly in ruins except this tower. He also refers to the deep fosse
which surrounded the castle as being visible, and mentions that there
was a drawbridge on the east, guarded by an arched gate with the royal
arms over it. In connection with these he states that " the tails of the
unicorns are made to bend downwards between the hind legs, similar to
the direction given them in the title-page of Bassandyne's folio Bible,"
Edinburgh, 1576. This stone was removed to Torrance House, and set up
there about 1743.
Mention is made of an older castle, the ruins of which existed 70 yards
north of the present tower. It also had a fosse, much larger and more perfect
than the other ; but all this has disappeared, as well as an artificial lake,
which covered twenty acres of the hollow, on the south side of the tower.
CATHCART CASTLE,* Renfrewshire.
This castle occupies a strong position about three miles south from
Glasgow, on the steep and lofty banks of the Eiver Cart, which defends
the castle on two sides.
* For the measured and restored drawings of this castle we are indebted to
Mr. Railton, while the perspective view is from a sketch in the possession of the
Royal Scottish Academy.
THIRD PERIOD
234
CATHCART CASTLE
The keep (-Fig. 169) i« a simple oblong structure, measuring about
51 feet by 30 feet 9 inches, and is surrounded, at a distance of about
10 feet, with curtain walls, strengthened with round corner towers
similar to those of Threave Castle.
SECTION LOOKING SOUTH
EAST TLEV/'TION
SECTION LOOKING FAST
Fig. 169. — Cathcart Castle. Plans, Sections, aud Elevation.
The ground floor is vaulted, and above it there still remain the ruined
walls of three floors (see Sections looking south and west), while the
restored drawing (Section looking east), which is doubtless tolerably
correct, shows that there was an additional floor.
The entrance through the curtain has been at the east end, and opposite
it is the door to the keep. A passage in the east wall leads to the wheel-
stair, which ascends to the top, and serves the various floors. Adjoining
CATHCART CASTLE
235
THIRD PERIOD
the door at the south end of the passage there is a small place about 6 feet
by 5 feet, which may have been used for a guardroom or a dungeon,
with access from above. The main chamber on the ground floor is
lighted with three narrow slits.
The hall on the first floor measures about 32 feet 6 inches by 17 feet,
and was well lighted with windows. One of the windows has stone seats,
and two of the others have lockers in the ingoing. A wide dilapidated
fireplace occupies the centre of the south wall. Two small mural closets
and one large one in the south-east angle complete the accommodation
of this floor. The Plans of the second and third floors and the elevation
show the castle as if restored, and its ruined walls rebuilt. The second
floor is divided into two apartments, and the large south-east mural closet
Fig. 170.— Cathcart Castle, from Soutli-East.
is repeated on this floor. The view (Fig. 170) shows the condition of the
building about a century ago, and it is not very different now.
The estate of Cathcart belonged to a family of the same name from
the twelfth century. They became barons in 1447, and the barony was
acquired by the family of Sempill in 1546. The representative of the
old family having purchased back part of the estate, was created Earl
of Cathcart in 1814. From its style it may be assumed that the castle
was erected by the Barons Cathcart in the fifteenth century. It remained
inhabited till about 1740, when the proprietor removed to a new house,
and, as appears from the Statistical Account, he sold the materials of the
castle to a contractor, who unroofed it, intending to demolish the whole
structure, and only desisted when he found that it would not be re-
munerative to do so.
The battle of Langside, Queen Mary's last effort in arms, was fought
not far from this castle.
THIRD PERIOD
— 236
BARDOWIE CASTLE
BARDOWIE CASTLE,* Stirlingshire.
The situation of this castle by the edge of a small loch, and surrounded
by fine old trees, is very beautiful. It stands about six miles north from
Glasgow, and within a short walk of Summerston Railway Station. The
old tower is still inhabited, in conjunction with a modern mansion which
Fig. 171.— Bardowic Castle, from South-East.
has been attached to it, as shown on Fig. 171. The structure is of an
oblong form (Fig. 172), measuring about 33 feet by about 27 feet 6 inches,
and is entered by a door in the centre of the south front. A straight
stair leads from the vaulted ground floor to the first floor, and continues
* We are indebted for the histoi'ical part of the account of Bardowie to J. Guthrie
Smith, Esq., of Mugdock.
BARDOWIE CASTLE 237 THIRD PERIOD
in the space shown on the Plan by dotted lines in the north wall to the
floor above, which is about the level of the sti'ingcourse shown in the
view. From the landing at this level a wheel-stair leads to the covered
battlements on the north side, and to the remarkable hall in the roof
(Fig. 173). Crossing the second floor (see Plan), a few steps lead up in
the thickness of the wall to the south battlements. Fig. 173 shows how
the battlements are covered in by the wide sloping roof of the tower,
the three openings shown on the Plan corresponding to the embrasures
usually found in the parapet. Possibly the top of the tower has been
altered (as at Comlongan, where the battlements are also covered), the
gable having been raised and the new roof constructed so as to cover in
the older parapet and parapet walk, and form a fine hall or gallery.
This hall in the roof, which has no fireplace and is lighted by end
windows, is amongst the few buildings in Scotland which possess an open
timber roof. As we had occasion to remark in reference to Edinburgh
Castle, Darnaway Castle, and the hall of the Knights in Linlithgow, open
Fig. 172.- Bardowie Castle. Plan of Second Floor.
timber roofs are of extremely rare occurrence in Scotland. This one has a
directness of purpose in its design and a simplicity in its parts hardly
possessed by the others. Such roofs are usually constructed with principals
placed some few feet apart, with common rafters placed between ; but
here all the rafters and ties, which are about 12 inches apart, are con-
structed like curved principals, thus imparting to the hall a fine solid
effect, not unlike that of ribbed vaulting. This interesting old place was
originally in the possession of the once great Stirlingshire family of
Galbraith, whose principal seats in this neighbourhood were Craigmaddie
Castle in Baldernock, and G-artconnel Castle in Kilpatrick. Of the former
but a fragment now remains, and the foundations of the latter are barely
traceable. The Galbraitlis of Baldernock were the chiefs of the race, and
they ended apparently in Janet Keith, who, through her mother, was their
heiress. Janet was the wife of David Hamilton of Cadzow, ancestor of the
Dukes of Hamilton. The family of Bardowie are a younger branch of
THIRD PERIOD
_ 238 —
BARDOWIE CASTLE
Cadzow, and they were endowed with the Ba dernock land xnclud ng
Bardowie, and doubtless were originally seated at Craigmaddie Castle.
There they remained till probably early in the sixteenth century, when
they removed to Bardowie, and Craigmaddie fell into rums.
/
Fig. 173.— Bardowie Castle. Hall on Top Story.
The tower was probably erected at that time, but the roof and hall
are doubtless later. The early history of the Hamiltons of Bardowie is
the common one in Scotland. They took their share in the various wars
of their country, and when not thus employed spent much of ^heir time
in feuds with their neighbours. In 1526 they had a quarre with the
Lo-ans of Balvie in Kilpatrick, which ended in John Hamilton being
COVINGTON TOWEK 239 THIRD PERIOD
killed by them at Blairskaith, not far from his own house of Bardowie.
His son and successor, Allan Hamilton, met a similar fate, being slain
by his nearest neighbour, Colin Campbell of Auchenbowie and Dowan,
and in 1591 a succeeding laird of Bardowie had a serious quarrel with
Walter Graham of Dougalston, another neighbour. The house of Bardowie
has thus probably witnessed many a stormy scene, and no doubt the
strength of its walls has been often tested. Robert Hamilton, sixteenth of
Bardowie, was the last of the family in the direct male line, and on his
death without issue he was succeeded in the estate by his sister Elizabeth,
wife of Thomas Buchanan of Spittal and Leny. Her grandson, John
Hamilton Buchanan of Spittal and Leny, is now the proprietor of
Bardowie.
COVINGTON TOWER, Lanarkshire.
This is unfortunately a much ruined example of what has undoubtedly
been a fine tower of the fifteenth century. It occupies a patch of dry
ground in the midst of what was formerly a flat marsh of considerable
extent, in the valley of the Clyde, between Carstairs and Thankerton.
Fig. 174.— Covington Tower. Plan of Basement.
The tower possesses some very marked features of the Thiixl Period.
Thus the walls are 11 feet in thickness, with narrow loops and deep bays
in the wall ; the ground floor was vaulted, and had a loft in the vault,
with a door entering from the main staircase, and lighted by a window at
each end (Fig. 174). The hall was on the first floor; the window recesses
in it are large and carefully built, and arched with dressed ashlar, and are
provided with stone seats. The fireplace of the hall was at the east end,
THIRD PERIOD
240 —
COVINGTON TOWER
LOCH ORE CASTLE 241 THIRD PERIOD
with wall-chambers in the thick wall at each side of it, above which small
windows are intx'oduced, high up near the ceiling, which gave light to the
hall through long narrow ingoings. The entrance door to the tower is on
the ground level, and near the centre of the north wall. From the ingoing
a few steps led in the thickness of the north wall to the wheel-stair in the
north-west angle, which ascended to the top. An ambry is formed in the
wall in the eastern side of the ingoing. A stone sink with a drain
through the wall and a square recess adjoining it occur in the west wall
of the ground floor. These were probably in connection with a well in
the* basement, now closed up.
The exterior (Fig. 175) has been deprived of its parapet and other
distinctive features, but is a good specimen of the massive and inde-
structible nature of the work of the fifteenth century.
The lands of Covington were bestowed by Bruce on the Keiths,
Hereditary Marshals of Scotland. From them they passed, in the
fifteenth century, to the Lindsays, in whose possession they remained till
sold, in the seventeenth century, to Sir George Lockhart, President of the
Court of Session.*
The dovecot seen in the Sketch is a fair example of those privileged
structures of the olden time. Other relics of a late period may also be
observed around the castle, in the remnants of what have evidently been
gardens, enclosed, together with the tower, by a deep ditch which still
remains, and which served the double purpose of defence and drainage.
LOCH ORE CASTLE, Fifeshire.
This somewhat remarkable structure is situated about one mile north
from Lochgelly Railway Station, in the parish of Ballingry. The castle
stood on an island about 100 paces distant from the south-east edge of
Loch Ore, which formerly extended about one and a half miles in length
by a quarter of a mile in breadth, but is now drained. The island rose
above the water to a height of about 10 feet, and extended outside the
walls an average distance of 8 paces.
The castle consists of a central keep (Fig. 176), surrounded by an
enclosing wall. The latter is of a rudely oval form on Plan, and measures
from east to west, along the greatest diameter, about 124 feet, and 104
from north to south. The castle was apparently approached from the
east, along a causeway which is reported to have been in existence some
years ago. The main entrance through the enclosing wall was in the
west side, or on the opposite side from the approach. The bar-hole in
one side of the gateway is still visible, and in the view of the castle in
Grose's Antiquities, the gateway is shown, round arched and entire, in
* Irving's Upper Ward of Lanarkshire.
Q
THIRD PERIOD
242
LOCH ORE CASTLE
LOCH ORE CASTLE — 243 — THIRD PERIOD
this position. Parties approaching the castle would thus have to traverse
the circuit of the island before gaining admittance, and from the nature
of the ground outside the walls, the access would be naturally by the north
side, which is commanded by a projecting round tower at the north-east
corner of the enclosing wall. This is the only tower attached to the wall.
It has three loopholes, 2 inches wide and 2 feet 2 inches high, of the form
shown on Fig. 176. There was a postern adjoining the round tower, and
commanded by it. This postern is shown in Cardonnel's Antiquities of
Scotland as having a round arch with a defence on the top of the wall
projected on corbels.
The keep, which is almost square on Plan, occupies the centre of the
enclosure. It measures about 34 feet by 35 feet 6 inches. None of the
floors were vaulted. The ground floor is entirely buried beneath the
ruins and cannot be seen. The first floor is the one shown on the Plan
(Fig. 176). The entrance to the ground floor is on the west side adjoining
the north wall. There is also a doorway to the first floor on the same side
at the south end, leading directly into the keep (see Plan), and passing,
strangely enough, through the arched fireplace, which occupies the whole
west end of the keep. This entrance has a bar-hole. There are no traces
of a stair between the first floor and ground floor, nor from the first floor
to the floor above, so that these were probably of timber ; but from
the second floor to the battlements a stair runs up in the thickness of
the south wall. It entered on the second floor (see Plan) through a
pointed doorway ; adjoining this is an opening into the flue of the fire-
place beneath, which does not appear to have been screened ofi* with a
stone partition, although there may have been one of timber ; but taken in
connection with the fact that there is only one fii'eplace in the keep, this
flue may have been left open on this side so as to give the second floor the
benefit of whatever heat could be got in that way. Or there may have been
a door at this point into the vent, which was possibly used as a place for
curing hams, &c., as in some other instances, such as Elphinstone. There
was a third floor partly in the roof.
To the north and west of the keep buildings existed, extending between
the keep and the wall of enceinte, but nothing remains of them above
3 or 4 feet in height. That on the north side is shown by Cardonnel as
terminating with a crow-stepped gable to the north. On the west front
of the keep the raglet for the roof of a building is cut on the face of the wall.
On the east face of the keep, fronting the approach to the island,
there has been some kind of projecting structure at the second floor level.
A part of its projecting edge (see Second Floor Plan) still exists, and seems
to have been, in part at least, a garde-robe.
Complete ruin and desolation have overtaken Loch Ore Castle in the
course of the nineteenth century (Fig. 177). In the views by Cardonnel and
Grose it is shown in a much more perfect condition. The walls of enceinte
THIRD PERIOD
244 —
LOCH ORE CASTLE
are represented as entire, and they remained so within the memory of
persons now living, till the removal of the earth outside brought the greater
part of them down. The total ruin of the whole wall and keep itself
seems imminent unless means are promptly taken to avert it.
Great antiquity is claimed for this castle. Grose, Cardonnel, and
others suppose it to have been built in the twelfth century by Duncan de
Lochore. The estate was then doubtless in the hands of that proprietor,
and seems to have remained in the possession of this family till, as Grose
tells us, in the reign of Robert i., it "fell to the son of a gentleman,
Adam de Valloniis, who had married a daughter of the Barons of Lochor.
^0^^^
Fw. 177. -Loch Ore Castle, from North-East.
It continued in this family for a considerable time, and then came to Sir
Andrew Wardlaw of Torry, who married the eldest daughter of D.
Jacobus de Valloniis, in whose family it remained till the time of King
Charles I." All the above authorities and the Old Statistical Account
agree in saying that over the chief entry to the tower is inscribed
" Robertus de Wardlaw." It is thus quite clear that he must have been
the builder of the castle, probably during the fifteenth century. The
character of the keep corresponds with that date, and the enclosing wall,
which is only 3 feet in thickness, has no resemblance to the older walls of
enceinte of the First Period,
ARNOT TOWER
245 THIRD PERIOD
BRTJCE'8 CASTLE, .Stirlingshire.
A ruin on a wooded hill above Carnock House, and about one mile
from Airth Station. Tlie building lias been a simple oblong (Fig. 178), with
the door on the ground floor. Part of the vaulted basement still remains,
and a passage in the thickness of the wall adjoining the entrance doorway
%3S I ^'^^% '
v^
LINTEL AT A
J"AMB or riREPLAGE
UPPCR FLOOR
3-5 0 10 20 30 40ft
m\m \ i \ \—
Fig. irs.— Brace's Castle. Plan.
probably contained a straight staircase to the first floor. From the details
of a fireplace preserved in the south and only remaining wall (Fig. 178), it
seems to be a structure of the Third Period ; but its history is vmknown.
The elliptic arch over the doorway recalls those of Doune,
ARNOT TOWER, Kinross-shire.
A tower situated in the parish of Portmoak, about one and a half miles
east of the village of Scotlandwell, and three miles west of the town of
THIRD PERIOD
246 —
ARNOT TOWER
Leslie in Fife. It stands on the southern slope of the Lomond Hills, on a
small knoll overlooking the River Leven as it issues from Loch Leven, and
close to a modern mansion-house. It is a small rectangular building (Fig.
179), about 31 feet by 24 feet, and has had a courtyard on the south, one
Fio. 179.— Ainot Tower. Plan,
wall of which remains. The tower has been very substantially constructed
(Fig. 180), the walls being about 6 feet 6 inches thick, and built with
coursed ashlar. The ground floor has been vaulted, and the inside facing
of the walls of that floor has also been of ashlar. All the floors are gone,
Fig. 180. — Arnot Tower, from North-East.
and the whole building much dilapidated — no doubt the work of violence.
The doorway seems to have been at the south-east angle, which is now
demolished, and a circular staircase was doubtless carried up in the same
angle.
PITCRUIVIE, OR BALCRUIVIK
— 247
THIRD PERIOD
Little can be learned of the history of the tower, but " Michael de
Arnot " was at the siege of Loch Leven Castle for Baliol in 1334. The
present tower, however, looks like fifteenth-century work, and was probably
erected by his successors on the site of an older one.
BALMUTO TOWER, Fifesiiire.
This structure, situated at the western extremity of the parish of King-
horn, and about half a mile south of the village of Auchtertool, consists of
a square tower of considerable antiquity incorporated in a modern mansion-
house.
The tower is about 33 feet by 26 feet 6 inches, with walls 6 feet 6
inches thick. The ground floor is still vaulted, and what seems to be the
original door still remains on the south side.
The tower has been considerably altered ; large windows with orna-
mental heads, surmounted with cherubs, have been inserted, which bear
the date 1680. The parapet round the top of the tower seems still more
modern, but the corbels under it are of the early mask type, and may be
part of the original tower.
Balmuto belonged of old to a family of the name of Glen, which ended
in an heiress who married Sir John Boswell, previously designed of
Balgregre, who died before 1430. The tower still remains with the
Boswell family.
PITCRUIVIE, OR BALCRUIVIE, Fifeshire.
This picturesque ruin stands at the north end of " Kiels Den," about a
mile north-west of the village of Upper Largo. It is a rectangular tower
CROUliO PLfIN
• .J ' ^r
" 1.: 1
Li
■""'"■ ij
FIRST FLOOR PLRti
|""|i,ii| 1 1 1
Pig. 181.— Pitcruivie, or Balcruivie. Plans.
THIRD PERIOD
— 248 —
guthrip: castle
(Fig. 181), 38 feet 9 inches by 25 feet 6 inches. The entrance was at the
north-east corner, where the remains of a projecting stair still exist. The
basement contains two vaulted apartments, and on the first floor is the
hall, 27 feet 6 inches by 14 feet 9 inches, lighted with three windows, and
provided with a large fireplace in the south end. The upper floors, which
are now gone, would be reached by a continuation of the turnpike stair at
the north-east corner. The walls are 5 feet 6 inches thick.
Pitci'uivie originally formed part of the barony of Lundin, but was
acquired by marriage, in 1498, by John, afterwards Sir John Lindsay of
Pitcruivie, son of the fourth Lord Lindsay of the Byres. This Sir John
was joint-Sherifi" of Fife in 1517, and probably he built the castle as a
separate residence during the lifetime of his father, who resided at
Struthers Castle. The lands were afterwards sold to James Watson,
Provost of St Andrews.
GUTHRIE CASTLE,* Forfarshire.
An old square tower, to which a modern mansion has been added. It
is situated near Guthrie Junction, about midway between Forfar and
Montrose. The castle is said to have been erected by Sir David Guthrie
in 1468, and is still held by his descendant, the present proprietor. The
Fig. 182.— Guthrie Castle. Plans.
old castle consists of a tower (Fig. 182), 40 feet by 31 feet. The walls
are 5 feet to 6 feet in thickness, except that containing the entrance door,
which is increased to 8 feet in order to contain the straight staircase,
which ascends in its thickness from the entrance door to the first floor.
* We have to thank Mr. Bryce for the Plans of this castle.
OLD SLAINS CASTLE
— 249
THIRD PERIOD
The ground floor contains two cellars, with doors opposite the entrance
door. The upper floors were approached by a wheel-stair in a tower pro-
FiG. 1S3.— Guthrie Castle.
jecting from one angle, and each contained an apartment 28 feet by 20
feet. The whole building has been restored, and a boldly-corbelled parapet
added in modern times (Fig. 183).
OLD SLAINS CASTLE, Aberdeenshire.
A fragment of a keep, with foundations of walls, are all that now
remain of this strong fortress of the Earls of Errol. It was demolished
by James vi. in 1594, after the battle of Glenlivat. The site is a very
fine one, being the summit of a rocky promontory on the east coast, about
midway between Aberdeen and Peterhead, commanding an extenslA'e
view over the German Ocean and the adjoining bays. The castle pro-
bably belonged to the Third Period, It seems to have been an extensive
stronghold, and to have been protected by a deep fosse with a drawbridge.
THIRD PERIOD 250 ACKERGILL TOWER
BODDAM CASTLE, Aberdeenshire.
A ruin, standing on a promontory which projects into the German
Ocean, a few miles south of Peterhead. A few arches and walls, with
traces of foundations, are all that now survive of this ancient seat of the
Keiths of Ludquharn. Its age can scarcely be determined, but it is prob-
ably of the Third Period.
ACKERGILL TOWER,* Caithness-shire.
Ackergill Tower overlooks the sea, about one mile west from Girnigoe
Castle, and about three miles from Wick. The situation is on level
ground, and is not naturally protected, so that in all likelihood it was
surrounded by a ditch and other defences, but all traces of such works
have long since disappeared.
The tower (Fig. 184) measures 48 feet by 34 feet, and is 68 feet high
to the top of the circular turrets, and 17 feet more to the top of the
chimneys ; while the walls are from 9 feet to 1 0 feet thick from top to
bottom. Various alterations have been made from time to time to adapt
the structure to modern requirements, the latest being in 1851, from the
plans of the late David Bryce, R.S.A. The capehouse (Fig. 185) on the
top of the tower is entirely the work of Mr. Bryce, who also put a new
cope on the top of the walls and restored the round turrets, while at
various times old windows or slits have been enlarged and new windows
opened out, but the general scheme and outline of the tower still remain.
The basement and first floors are vaulted. From the entrance passage on
the ground floor, a straight flight of steps in the thickness of the wall
leads up to the first floor and terminates there, the ascent to the top being
effected by a wheel-stair at the opposite or north-west corner of the tower.
The hall is the only apartment on the first floor. It measures 28 feet
long by 18 feet wide, and is 23 feet high to the vaulted roof. Entering
from the hall, in the thickness of the east wall, there is a long gallery,
from which a stair led up only to a similar gallery about 10 or 12 feet
above the floor. This may have formed an arrangement similar to the
minstrels' gallery at Mearns and Dean Castle, or there may have been an
upper floor in the vault as at Craigmillar.
On the floor over the vault of the hall, which, on the above supposi-
tion of a floor in the vault, would be the third floor, the north-west stair
lands in a passage in the thickness of the north wall. This passage seems
to have run along in the north and east walls, and gave separate access
* We are indebted to Mr. Bryce for the Plans and section of this castle, which
are shown as they existed before the additions and alterations were made.
ACKERGILL TOWER
— 251
THIRD PERIOD
to the two apartments on this floor. It is now impossible to say whether
it was continued uninterruptedly round the two sides, or whetlier it was
divided by cress walls. In the south wall there are two mural chambers
enterina; oif the ineoine: of one uf the windows. The fourth floor, which
P^MHHV T
THIRD FLOOR
^^r^HEB.i
GROUND FLOO
FOLJRTH FLOOK
Fig. 1S4.— Ackergill Tower. Plans and Section.
was reached by the north-w^est wheel-stair, was similar in arrangement to
the floor just described.
The top floor is entirely new, and is approached by the north-west
turret stair, which also leads to the battlements. There is likewise a
turret stair in the north-east angle of this floor leading to the roof.
Immediately south-east of the tower stand the two dovecots, shown in
THIRD PERIOD
— 252
ACKERGILL TOWER
Fig. 185. They are a little further off in reahty than shown, but are
brought nearer so as not to unduly increase the size of the view. The
position of Girnigoe Castle is also indicated in the sketch.
The lands of Ackergill belonged to the Cheynes, a well-known and
powerful family in the north of Scotland, from the thirteenth century.
About the year 1350, Reginald Cheyne, the head of the family, died,
ending the male line and leaving two daughters, one of whom, Maiy,
married John, second son of 'Edward Keith, the marischal, thus making
Fio. 1S5.— Ackergill Tower, from Soutli-West.
their son proprietor of Ackergill as well as of Inverugie in Buchan. Acker-
gill thereafter became the residence of the K eiths when in Caithness.
We have no information as to when Ackergill was built, but it is
undoubtedly an ancient tower, and may date from the fifteenth century.
In the following century (1538), we find from the Origines Parochiales
Scotia', vol. II. part ii., that the castle was granted by James v., with half
of the lands of Ackergill, to William, Earl Marischal, and Lady Margaret
Keith, his wife ; and nine years later the Queen Regent granted a remis-
sion to George, Earl of Caithness, and others, for their treasonable taking
of Alexander Keith, captain of the castle, and of John Skarlet, his ser-
CASTLE VARRICII
253 —
THIRD PERIOD
vitor, and detaining them against their will in Girnigoe, Brawl, and other
places. Again, in 1556, the same Earl of Caithness had a remission for
besieging the house and fortalice of Ackergill, belonging to William, Earl
Marischal.
In 1549 Queen Mai-y bestowed Ackergill on Lord Oliphant, son and
heix'-apparent of Laurence, third Lord Oliphant.
A writer in 1726 says Ackergill Tower was then "a strong house, and yet
in repair, and betwixt that and the sea is a good new house lately built."
DIRLOT CASTLE, Caitiiness-shire.
A fragmentary ruin, occupying a very picturesque position on the top
of an isolated crag close to the Eiver Thurso, about fifteen miles south
from the town of the same name. It is said to have been held in the
fourteenth century by Donald Cheyne, one of the scions of that family,
X
~ ll' ■•'I V
^lYEH
Fio. 180.— Dirlot Castle. Plan.
long so powerful in the North. In 1464 it was in the hands of George
Gunn, Crumer or Crown representative, and head of the Clan Gunn. The
keep occupied an almost inaccessible peak. It has been of the usual
quadrilateral form (Fig. 186), and has had a small courtyard attached to
it ; but it is now reduced to a few remains of the walls, from which the
Rev. Mr. Miller has prepui-ed the accompanying Plan.
CASTLE VARRICH,* Sutherlandsuire.
This is almost the only ancient castle on the north and west coasts of
Sutherlandshire. It is a shattered tower of small size, standing con-
* We have to thank the Rev. Mr. Miller and Mr. J. W. Burns for the Plan,
Sketch, and particulars of this remote and inaccessible building.
THIRD PERIOD
254 —
CASTLE VARRICH
spicuously on the summit of a promontory near the head of the Kyle
of Tongue. The history of this keep is unknown, but it is supposed to
have belonged to the Bishop of Caithness, who used to stay here on his
way from his castle at Scrabster to his house and lands at Balnakiel, near
Cape Wrath.
The structure (Fig. 187) seems to have been rather a house than a
castle, and is probably of late date. It consisted of two stories, and
seemingly an attic in the roof. The ground floor was vaulted, and
measured 6 feet 6 inches from the springing to the door sill, but the
arch has now fallen in. This floor had a door to the outside, and also a
narrow window. It was probably used for the cattle and horses, as there
is no stair to the first floor.
The latter contained a single apartment, 14 feet by 13 feet, and
was probably entered from the exterior by a ladder, giving access to a
door in the west wall. There seems to have been a window in the east
A
GROUND
FLOOR
I I I I l| I I II
Fig. 1S7.— Castle Varrich. Plans.
wall and a wall press in the south wall ; but the wall openings are now so
destroyed that it is impossible to make out clearly what they were. In
the north and south side walls there are four long grooves or recesses, the
use of which is not at first sight quite apparent. They have not been
loopholes or windows, as they have no external opening. Mr. Miller
suggests what appears to be the simplest and most natural way of
explaining them — viz., that they correspond with the recesses in the
side walls of thatched cottages, into which the couples formed of natural
wood are built. To any one familiar with the construction of the thatched
cottages in the Highlands, where the bent rafters sometimes spring from
the ground and curve upwards to the ridge, like the inverted ribs of a ship,
the above will seem a very likely explanation. The ties of the roof would
form the ceiling of the first floor, and there was doubtless a loft in the
roof above. Mr. Miller further points out that there was very likely a
parapet at the top of the walls, as a piece of " faced work " remains above
the roof, at the place where the inside of the parapet would be.
CASTLE VARRICTI
255 —
THIRD PERIOD
THIRD PERIOD — 256 — LETHINGTON CASTLE
The whole of the structure is a somewhat rough one ; the masonry is
coarse and the setting out irregular. Two or three of the upper stones
of the jambs of the door are overlapped and projected inwards, so as to
diminish the space of the lintel.
CASTLES OF THE L PLAN.
LETHINGTON CASTLE, Haddingtonshire.
This castle stands embosomed amid the dark woods planted about two
centuries ago by John, Duke of Lauderdale, at a distance of about two
miles south from the town of Haddington, from which it was approached
by an avenue with an arched entrance gateway. Another approach, from
the west, was by a similar avenue and gateway ; the latter gateway has
been very handsome, but is now ruinous. A seventeenth-century mansion,
which has now been considerably altered and modernised, was attached to
the old fortalice on its eastern side, the whole forming the occasional re-
sidence of Lord Blantyre, the present proprietor. Lethington is a massive
example of a fifteenth-century castle of the L Plan (Fig. 189), the main
body measuring 54 feet 10 inches from north to south by 38 feet from east
to west ; while along the south or largest front, including the wing, it
measures 61 feet 9 inches. The castle contains four stories, and is 58 feet
high from the ground to the top of the parapet, while the walls vary from
8 to 10 feet in thickness. The entrance doorway, where the iron yett still
hangs, is in the re-entering angle on the north side of the wing, and im-
mediately opposite it is a wide wheel-staircase leading to the first floor,
where, in the usual manner, it terminates. Another entrance doorway
near the north end leads directly into the vaulted ground floor — a dark
chamber, having only two narrow slits for light and air. A narrow passage
in the thickness of the wall conducts from this door to the main entrance
doorway and staircase. Two entrance doorways in a building of this class
are rather unusual features, and would render the house open to attack.
The northern one is probably a late insertion, meant, as at Balvaird
(where there are also two outside doors), to be used, as occasion required,
for the housing of cattle and horses. The openness to attack would be to
some extent diminished by the existence of a walled barmkin, portions of
which still exist, although it cannot be fully traced amid the offices
and other buildings of the modern mansion. The arched and moulded
entrance gateway (Fig. 190), however, yet remains, but is of a later date
than the castle. On the lintel of the main entrance doorway of the keep
is carved the following inscription :—
LETIIINGTON CASTLE
257 —
THIRD PERIOD
QVISNAM E MAETELLANA STIRPE FVNDAMENTA
JECERIT, QVIS TVRRIM EXITAVERIT INVIDA CELAVIT
ANTIQUITAS. LUMINARIA AUXIT, FACILIOREM
ASCENSUM PRAEBUIT. ORNATIONEM REDDIDIT
JOANNES MAETELLANUS LAUDERI^. COMES
AN AERAE CHE MDCXXVI.
Over the other outside door are the Maitland arms.
BATTLEMENTS
SECOND FLOOR.
FLSST FLOOR
GROUND FLOOR
Fi«. ISO.— Lethington Castle. Plans.
B
THIRD PERIOD
— 258 —
LETHINGTON CASTLE
Entering off the wheel-stair, and about half way ujj to ^1- hall there
is a mural^hamber (shown by white lines on the Plan o^^o^^
measux-inc about 8 feet by 4 feet, with an opening commanding the two
measuiin aoou j ^^^^ converted into a
entrance doorways. On the tirst noui v
kitchen), a spacious vaulted apartment, measuring 39 feet long by .1
Fio. I90.-Lethington Castle. View from Korth-East.
Wide and lighted on three sides by four deeply-recessed and wide
w ndows. The room in the wing enters both from the hall and from
the staircase, and contained a recess, through winch now passes the
eomniunicati;n with the modern house. In -ming ^h^ Jjection
what seems to have been a large fireplace has been cut through. This,
LF.TIIIXKTON CASTLR
259
THIRD PERIOD
together with the great thickness of the east gable, seems to indicate that
this apartment was formerly the kitchen of the castle. Crossing from the
principal staircase landing to the south-west corner of the hall, another
inner staircase is seen, leading to the upper floors and to the battlements.
From the second floor a narrow wheel-stair in the north wall of the wing
leads to the bedrooms in the attic floor, but it seems pretty clear that this
stair is a late insertion, as the parapet walk above it has been raised
Fig. 191.— Lethington Castle. Room on Second Floor.
in order to give head-room beneath for the stair-landing in the passage
to the attics. Fig. 191 shows the ceiling and fireplace of a small room
on the second floor to the south. The ceiling, unfortunately, is in
a ruinous state ; it contains the initials I M S, frequently repeated,
for John, second Lord Maitland and Earl of Lauderdale, and his wife,
Isabel Seton, a daughter of the Earl of Dunfermline. He was created
earl in 1640, while, as will be seen from the Sketch, the date on the
THIRD PERIOD
•260 —
LRTHINGTON CASTLE
fireplace is 1632, and that on the arms (see margin Sketch) is 1618 ; yet
the latter contains an earl's coronet before the owner had that dignity
conferred upon him. The panelling, arms, and dates are all m plaster
work, so that the arms may easily have been added to, and, indeed,
Fig. 192.— Lethington Castle View from South-West.
present a somewhat patched appearance. The height of the room is
8 feet 11 inches. At the top of the main stair a small room is enclosed
with a timber partition, similar in idea to, although on a much smaller
scale than, the rooms referred to at the stair-tops of Fyvie and Notland,
LKTHINGTON CASTLE
261 —
THIRD PERIOD
From this point a narrow wheel-stair, in a turret slightly corbelled out in
the south wall, leads to a lofty capehouse perched on the angle of the
battlements (Fig. 192), containing two rooms, one of which has a fireplace.
The stone walls at the inner (or north-east) angle of this room are, for a
length of 6 or 7 feet, over a void, as will be seen by comparing the Plans.
The doorway shown at the side of the fireplace opens into the roof.
The battlements are wide and spacious, with rounded angle bartizans
and projecting gargoyles of a square oblong form, each I'oughly but effectively
hewn in the form of a monster. The angle turret on the corner of the cape-
house is solid. The capehouse is evidently a late addition, constructed so as
(1 ff^
lilliiii.i!.,L
iMBwwrawmwniBai
Pig. 193. — Lethington Uastle. View oa the Battlements.
to provide an additional room, which might also serve as a watch turret.
The angle bartizan at this corner was no doubt previously the same as
those of the other angles, and has simply been heightened and incorporated
with the capehouse wall, as shown on the Plan of that room.
In many of our castles we find some special means of defence over
the doorways, both in the earlier and later buildings. At Bothwell,
Preston, Threave, and Skipness we have examples of the precautions
taken for this purpose ; and at Elcho a great stone lintel stretched
between the walls at the re-entering angle over the doorway.* This we
* Vol. II. p. 99.
THIRD PERIOD 262 LETIIINGTON CASTLE
conjectured to be the support of some kind of wooden breteche for the pro-
tection of the defenders ; and here at Lethington we have the same idea
carried out in stonework (Fig. 193), supported on a squinch arch thrown
across the re-entering angle. The front is pierced with six small shot-
holes, and probably the angle space inside, although now covered over,
was originally open, to permit of missiles being thrown down on the heads
of those attempting to force the door. A few years ago the battlements
were in a leaky condition, and the water was percolating through the walls,
when Lord Blantyre caused them to be put in a thorough state of repair —
a course which might with advantage be followed by many of the pro-
prietors of our ancient castles.
The Maitlands of Lethington are familiar figures to all readers of
Scottish history, in the making of which many of them had no small
share. To which of the family this castle owes its origin we have no
definite information, and the inscription over the doorway shows that in
1626 Lord Lauderdale was equally ignorant.
In the middle of the fourteenth century Sir Robert Maitland of
Thirlstane obtained a charter of the lands of Lethington, in which son
succeeded father down to the time of Charles ii., when the estate passed
into the hands of the ancestors of Lord Blantyre. The fourteenth
century is too early a date for the erection of a castle designed like this
one. Probably it is a work of the second half of the following century.
The well-known Sir Richard Maitland is believed to have been born here
in 1496, and it is certain that he here passed the greater portion of his
later lifetime " in the cultivation and collection of vei'se. The Maitland
" manuscripts preserved at Cambridge are worth far more than their
" weight in gold — are, in fact, invaluable ; for had they not been pre-
" served, much of the early poetry of Scotland would have been entirely
" lost."*
It is in Sir Richard's time (he lived till 1585) that we find the first
traces of the existence of the castle, but we do not think it probable that
it was erected by him ; and the following verses by Sir Richard in praise
of the castle, its largeness and its strength, seem to bear out the idea that
he is singing the achievements of an ancestral builder : —
" Thy tour and fortres, lairge and lang,
Thy neighbours does excell ;
And for thy wallis thick and Strang,
Thou graitly beirs the bell.
Thy groundis deep, and topis hie.
Uprising in the air,
Thy vaultis pleasing are to sie,
They are so greit and fair.
* Mr. Skelton's Scotland of Mary Stuart.
.MICKCMISTON CASTLE 263 TIIIUD PERIOD
" Gi'eit was the work to houke the ground,
And thy foundation cast ;
Bot greater it was then to found,
And end thee at the last.
I marvel that he did not feir,
Wha raised thee on hicht.
That na foundation should thee beir,
Bot thou should sink for wecht."
During Sir Richard's lifetime (as we learn from the Diurnal of
Occurrents) the castle was attacked and burnt by the English, who
" upon the 15th day thereof " (September 1549) " past out of Haddington
and burnt it and Leddington, and past away without any battell, for the
pest and hunger was richt evil amangst them."
Sir Richard and his sons have conferred a lustre on the old tower of
Lethington, rendei'ing it a familiar name to many who never saw it.
Here were born William Maitland, the Secretary of State ; John, the
Chancellor ; Thomas Maitland, who died young, but not without leaving
a name in contempoi'ary literature ; and here, too, the Chancellor's son,
John, Duke of Lauderdale, first saw the light.
MERCHISTON CASTLE, Edinburgh.
Merchiston, forever associated with the name of Napier, and widely
known as the birthplace and residence of John Napier, the inventor of
logarithms, is situated within the extended bounds of the City of
Edinburgh. The town during the present century has gradually en-
croached on the solitude of the old tower, till now it is surrounded with
suburban residences, above which, however, its bulky form is still a con-
spicuous landmark in the disti'ict.
The castle, never having been abandoned as a place of residence, is in
perfect preservation. It has, however, been subjected to various altera-
tions in the interior, and very considerable and heterogeneous additions
have been built on all sides, in order to make it suitable for the eminent
boarding school in comiection with which the name of Merchiston is
familiar to modern ears. This explains the meaning of various doors
shown on the Plans on the north and south walls, these being passages to
the adjoining buildings (Fig. 194), The castle is still surrounded with
gardens and pleasure-grounds, which, together with the quaint lion-guarded
gateway (Fig. 195), still convey a fair idea of the aspect and surroundings
of a Scottish gentleman's residence in the sixteenth century.
The building is of the L Plan, and measures about 43 feet along the
south front by 28 feet 9 inches in width, and along the west face it
measures 45 feet 9 inches. It contains six floors, and is about 71 feet
THIRX) PERIOD
— 264
MERCHISTON CASTLE
IGROUND n.OOR
Fig. 194.— Merchiston Castle. Flaiis and Elevation.
MERCIIISTON CASTLE
265
THIRD PERIOD
liigh to the chiinucy top. In its present condition it is not quite clear
where the original entrance doorway was situated. The opening in tin;
south wall, with steps leading to the wheel-stair, is modern, and all the
other ground floor doorways have their jambs either concealed or altered,
so that nothing definite can be ascertained on this point.
The ground floor is divided into various small places or cellars, but
originally it consisted of two apartments, which, singular to say, are not
vaulted, and never have been, as is shown by the numerous finely-wrought
coi'bels, which exist at short distances apart, for carrying the supports of
Fic. 195.— Meicbiston Castle and Gateway, from South.
the timber floor. In connection with the whole structure there is not a
single vaulted apartment, with the exception of a cellar in the area outside
the castle at the re-entering angle, as shown by hatched lines on the Ground
Floor Plan and the east elevation. This cellar, which is reached by a narrow
stair from the kitchen, measures about 16 feet long by 7 feet 9 inches
wide ; in its vault there are two hatchways, about 18 inches wide.
The kitchen seems to have been in the wing on the ground floor, as
behind the present fireplace in the north wall there is an arched void,
which can only be darkly seen by removing a stone, but which was doubtless
THIRD PERIOD 266 MEKCHISTON CASTLE
the recess of the old kitchen fireplace, with a small window in the gable at
the back. This wall is carried up of about the same thickness to the top
of the building for the purpose of containing the wide kitchen flue.
There is only one narrow wheel-stair for the service of the whole
castle ; it is situated in the south-west corner, and rises from the ground
to the battlements, where it is seen enclosed in a circular turret. The
wall which encloses this stair projects slightly into the apartments on
each floor, and the stair being thus kept well in from the outside face of
the walls leaves room for a mural chamber leading off" it near the third
floor level, and also for a passage all round the battlements. The parapet
walk is laid with large overlapping stones, the water from which is dis-
chai^ged by gargoyles. As there are no gargoyles over the inner portion
of the re-entering angle, it may be presumed that the entrance door was
at this point on the ground floor, the object of this arrangement, of course,
being to avoid drenching people with the water from the roof as they
entered the house.
The castle seems to have received additions and altei-ations in the
seventeenth century ; and to this period most of the internal features,
which are not quite modern, belong — such as the east room on the first
floor, with the fine plaster ceiling shown in Fig. 196. It contains two
medallions^one of David with his harp, and another of Alexander. The
wide mullioned window seen in this view is not oi'iginal. The windows at
this level and on the floor below were, doubtless for security, made very
small at first. There are also several painted coats of arms on various
parts of the interior. They are quarterly, first and fourth, argent, a
saltire ingrailed, cantoned with four roses gules, for Napier ; second and
thii'd, or, on a bend a%u,re, a mullet betwixt two ci'escents of the first,
within a double tressure, flowered and counter-flowered, of the second, for
Scott of Thirlstane. These probably date from early in last century, as
in 1699 Elizabeth Napier was married to William Scott, son and heir of
Francis Scott of Thirlstane. To this time also belongs the entrance gate-
way with the rustic stonework and the gi'otesque lions shown in Fig. 195.
It is similar in its details to the gateway at Neidpath,* and to a round
gateway at Herdmanston, not far from Lethington, of which a Sketch
will be afterwards given. Inside this gateway there are two richly-carved
gate pillars, one of which is shown in the Sketch through the archway.
All the lower part of the castle, and up almost to the parapet, is con-
cealed by an addition of last century ; and, indeed, it is only at the east end
(see the elevation, Fig. 194) where any part can be seen from top to bottom.
The Napiers were intimately connected with Edinburgh in the fifteenth
and sixteenth centuries, several members of the family being elected to
the Chief Magistracy during the former period. The castle probably
belongs to that time, with the style of which it agrees.
* Vol I. p. 186.
MERCHISTON CASTLE
TIIIUD PERIOD
ViDIAfJIOJ/iJ
THIRD PERIOD — 268 — HATTON HOUSE
The situation of Merchiston Castle rendered it an important structure.
It was almost within range of the guns of Edinburgh Castle, and was in
the highway of approach to the capital from the south and west ; and on
several occasions during the life of John Napier it was besieged by the
Queen's troops. Sir William Kircaldy bombarded it in 1571, and twice
in the year following it was beset ; and, according to the Dhirnal of
Occurrents, p. 29.5, in May 1572, "the haill houssis wes spoulzeit and
brunt, to haue smokit the men of the dungeoun out ; " but assistance
coming to the inmates, the enemy fled — only, however, to renew the con-
flict on the month following, when they " maid greit slappis in the wall."
It appears evident from these events that there must have been
strong walls and other works at Merchiston besides the present castle,
which, from the absence of vaulted floors, is ill calculated to resist fire, and
its walls are only of moderate thickness. But enclosing wall, fosse, &c.,
have all alike vanished, and only this sixteenth-century structure is left.
HATTON HOUSE,* Midlothian.
A large mansion, situated about eight or nine miles west from Edin-
burgh, and about two miles from Kirknewton Railway Station.
The house stands at the base of a gentle eminence, and has a tine
southern aspect. It is surrounded on the south, east, and west sides
with old terraced gardens, in which are various features of the art of
the seventeenth-century landscape gardener — such as grottoes, summer-
houses, and arched gateways. A terrace wall runs along 30 or 40 yards
in advance of the south front, and at both ends it has pavilioned summer-
houses similar to those at Traquair House ; and beyond this, in the low-
lying ground to the south, there is a small artificial lake with an island.
Hatton House comprehends several structures erected at different
periods. There is, first, an old keep of the L Plan (Fig. 197), which has been
encased in an extensive mansion built round it on all sides in the seven-
teenth century. The keep is thus completely embedded in the more
modern structure, only its top being seen rising above the newer build-
ings (Figs. 198 and 199), somewhat in the style of the renovations at
Kinneil Castle. The ancient parapet on the east side (see Fig. 197) has been
removed, and a balustrade has been erected in its stead, but otherwise the
keep has been very little altered, the original parapet and capehouse being
still visible on the north and west sides (see Fig. 198). It can, however,
scarcely be said to be incorporated with the more modern house ; for
while the latter still remains inhabited, the keep in the heart of it is in a
* A very complete Monograph of Hatton House, with numerous illustrations,
was printed for private circulation in 1S75 by J. R, Findlay, Esq., to which the
authors are indebted for much information regarding its history.
IIATTON HOUSE
— 269
THIRD PERIOD
state of semi-ruin, although preserved from actual decay by a good roof.
The keep measures about 55 feet from north to south, by about 46 feet
from east to west, and contains four stories in the main block. The
arched entrance doorway in the re-entering angle is still P^'^served.^The
Fig. 107. — Hatton House. Plan of Ground Floor.
walls measure on the ground floor from 8 to 10 feet in thickness. The
south wall seems to have been thinned in connection with the building of
the later mansion. The ground floor was vaulted with a lofty vault,
including two stories in the main portion, and a lower vault in the wing,
in which there is, as usual, a vaulted entresol. The narrow corkscrew
THIRD PERIOD
— 270
HATTON IIOrSR
HATTON HOUSE
— 271
TIIIUD PKRIOD
stair, which adjoins the entrance doorway, leads to the various floors and
continues to the top, where there is a flat roof. The capehouse seems
partly ancient, and is furnished with an O.G. roof of the seventeenth
century, having a vane with monogram E. C. M. (see Sketch, Fig. 200).
The entrance porch of the seventeenth-century house is on the east side
and is approached by a straight avenue about three-quarters of a mile
Fio. 100.— Hatton House. View from North-West.
long, which enters the gardens up a flight of steps flanked by massive
gate pillars, with lions on the top (see Fig. 201), about 50 or 60 yards to
the east of the house. The east front is two stories high, and has a flat
roof, so that the keep is seen in the background towering over it, and
giving the mansion a massive and noble appearance.
The newer building which surrounds the old keep measures along the
east front, over the towers, about 124 feet, and along the south front
about 113 feet.
THIRD PERIOD
272
IIATTON HOUSK
The later muiision is believed to have been at one time a complete
square with a round tower at the north-west angle, similar to those at the
other angles ; but, as the Plan shows, the length of U, _ ^^
the west front has been curtailed by the demolition |^^^^^-^
of the round tower and buildings adjoining. Mr.
Findlay mentions that this portion was taken down
" within the present century, for the sake of the
building materials." The Plan of the new house has
thus been laid out somewhat after the manner of the
seventeenth-century mansions surrounding a court-
yard—only, instead of an open courtyard, an ancient
keep here occupies the central position. The en-
trance porch leads to a handsome hall, 39 feet by
18 feet, with round engaged pillars along the walls, supporting beams.
There were probably two rows of central pillars, two in each row. Mr
— H.atton House.
Vane.
Fig. 201.— Hatton House. View from Soutli-West.
Findlay's Plan shows two of these pillars still standing. From this hall a
doorway on the right hand leads to the grand staircase, which gives access
HATTON HOUSE
— 273
THIRD PERIOD
Fin. 202.— Hatton House.
Sun-dial.
to a fine suite of reception i*ooms on the first floor. A doorway at the
other end of the hall leads by a passage to the various rooms in the south
front. From the central room, which projects beyond the line of the
south front, a double stair leads down to the gardens (Fig. 201). The
room at the south-west corner, and the round tower leading oS" the
same, marked Boudoir on Plan, still retain their ancient carved wood
decoration and enriched ceilings. The kitchen and
offices are on the north side, and access from them
to the rooms on the south side is obtained by passing
through the keep. The vault in the main part of the
keep has been removed, so as to give better light
and air.
In 1374 Allen de Lauder (keeper of Tantallon)
purchased the lands of Hatton from John de Hatton.
The property remained in the family of Lauder till it
passed by marriage to the family of the Maitlands in
the seventeenth century. Sir Richard Lauder (the
last of Hatton) had two daughters, one of whom,
Elizabeth, was married in 1653 to Charles Maitland,
younger brother of the Duke of Lauderdale, and his successor as earl
(for with the brother the dukedom expired), and on her, by marriage
contract, Sir Richard settled the estate of Hatton. This Charles Maitland
was the author of the mansion built I'ound the old keep. On a sun-dial
(Fig. 202) near the top of the south-east tower, a monogram of his
initials and those of his wife occurs, with the date 1664 ; and on another
dial (Fig. 203) at the projecting west corner there
are the same initials, with the date 1675 ; and these
initials appear again, as above mentioned, on the iron
vane which surmounts the capehouse roof (see Fig.
200).
Mr. Findlay seems to think that the centre of the
east front is of later date than the north and south
fronts. There is nothing, however, in the style of
the design or in the Plan of the building to support
this view. The porch and the cornice with its balus-
trade (as well as those on the keep) are probably
later additions ; but the whole east front seems to
be quite a harmonious composition, carried out in the
style practised during the above period. It is not unlike Caroline Park,
built in 1685,* in its long, low proportions and crowning balustrade.
Earl Charles died in 1691, and was succeeded in Hatton by his second
son. Sir John Maitland, who in time became fifth Earl of Lauderdale. He
married Margaret Cunningham, daughter of the Earl of Glencairn.
* Vol. II. p. 456.
S
Fig. 203.— Hatton House.
Sun-dial.
THIRD PERIOD
274
HATTON HOUSE
Their initials occur on some of the garden buildings ; and they probably
laid out the grounds and adorned the gardens in the princely style of
which we still see traces. To them also may be referred the large bath-
room beneath the terrace, which measured about 20 feet by 12 feet, and
about 12 feet high. "The floor was a tessellated pavement of octagonal
Fig. 204.— Hatton House. Entrance Gateway.
slabs of freestone and black marble." The bath itself is a circular basin
of freestone, 10 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep, into which the water
flowed from an ornamental font in the wall.
None of the successors of the fifth earl appear to have added to or
built at Hatton, and the property passed out of their hands in 1792,
BRIDGE CASTLE
275 —
THIRD PERIOD
Fig. 205.
Hatton House.
Lauder Anns.
The gateway (Fig. 204) was built in 1692. It appears to have been
shifted from its original site to where it now is in 1829, and at the same
time to have had the two side gateways for foot passengers added.
A castle existed here in the fifteenth century, which appears "to have
been captured and held in the Douglas interest (Lauder having taken a
prominent part in connection with the assassination of
Douglas by James in Stirling), and retaken after a siege,
for the carrying on of which the king, James ii., supplied
much important material,"* as, in July 1453, expenses are
charged for sending to the siege of Haltone House the great
bombard, and stones for the same, as well as bows, and a
machine called the Sow. Charges are also allowed for the
hire of men and horses, for iron caps called " Salattis," and
for pitch, bitumen carts, and for the wages and expenses of
masons and carpenters present at the tower of Haltone
during the siege.
To what extent the castle suffered by the operations of the siege we
do not find, but in 1515 William de Laudre received from the king
(James v.) a licence "to fortify or re-edify his
house at Halton;" and Mr. Findlay thinks that
"this date, 1515, is the earliest which can with
anything like certainty be fixed." It is quite
possible, however, that the walls, which are of
great thickness, may have belonged to the castle
which was besieged and partly destroyed in the
time of James ii.
The Lauder arms, shown on Fig. 205, occur
between the second and third floor windows in the
centre of the south front, where they must have been inserted from an
older building. Several sun-dials occur on different parts of the mansion,
that in Fig. 206 being on the south-east tower.
Fig. 206.— Hatton House.
Sun-dial on South-East Tower.
BRIDGE CASTLE, Linlithgowshire.
The baronial mansion of the regality of Ogilface, situated in the parish
of Torphichen, about three miles north-west from Bathgate, in a beautifully
wooded dell rising up from the Barbauchan Burn, a small tributary of the
Avon. The castle was originally of the L Plan, but has some pecu-
liarities, a smaller block containing a kitchen having been added to the
south of the wing (Fig. 207). The main block measures about 36 feet 9
inches by 27 feet 8 inches, and contains four floors with an attic. The
lesser block measures about 22 feet by 21 feet. These blocks are sepa-
* Chamberlain Rolls, Vol. in. pp. 574-76.
THIRD PERIOD
— 276
BRIDGE CASTLE
rated from each other by a small space, which was occupied by the original
wing containing the staircase. This stair is now removed, except on the
upper floors, where it exists in timber, and a new stair is introduced in a
tower built for it at the re-entering angle, whei-e shown by dotted lines on
the First Floor Plan.
The castle is otherwise considerably altered. Having been converted
from a roofless ruin into a comfortable mansion in the recollection of living
persons, it was necessarily renovated and adapted to modern requirements.
Thus while formerly a level space extended all round the castle, and the
ground sloped rapidly upwards some 15 or 20 feet along the west side,
this space has now been filled in to a considerable extent with earth so as
to make the new entrance, which is placed in the west side on the first
floor, level. The original entrance was on the ground floor, probably in
the east side of the staircase wing, but has now been altered to the point
marked A on Plan. The modern entrance to the house consists of a large
Fio. 207.— Bridge Castle. Tlau of First, Floor.
porch projecting westwards, the pointed door of which, with a large bead
moulding, is old, and has evidently been brought from somewhere else.
The whole of the ground floor is vaulted. On the basement of the larger
block there is a kitchen with two cellars, as shown by dotted lines on
Plan. On the first floor of the south or smaller block there is another
vaulted kitchen, with a fine arched fireplace, having a recess at one end.
The existence of these two kitchen fireplaces accounts for the great width
and bulk of the two chimney-stacks, shown in the View (Fig. 208), the
flues of the kitchen chimneys of these old houses being generally much
larger than those of the other fireplaces. It is singular to find two kitchens
in a house of this size, but the explanation evidently is that the castle was
built at two diff"erent periods, the larger block with the stair wing being
built first, and the smaller block being added afterwards.
The original keep is the " fortalice " of Little Brighouse referred to
in a charter about to be quoted. The place passed into the possession
BRIDGE CASTLE
THIRD PERIOD
of Livingston, Earl of Linlithgow, in 1588, when the charter was
conferred by James vi. The new wing was probably then erected,
with a kitchen on the first floor, and the old kitchen was allowed to
remain unaltered. This also explains the singular arched recess between
the two buildings, shown on the View and Plan. The charter referred
Fic. 208.— Bridge Castle. Viow from North-West.
to likewise gives a reason for the presence of the Sinclair arms (see
Fig. 208) over the doorway at A, as about to be mentioned. In these
arms the cross of the St. Clair is quite distinct, but successive layers
of whitewash make it diflicult to determine whether there are marks of
cadency on it or not. Previous to the above date the barony of Ogilface
THIRD PERIOD 278 LORDSCAIRNIE CASTLE
was parcelled out into various lots, and the parties from whom the earl
received his charter were "Alexander Stewart of Scottistounhill, and
Elizabeth Hammyltoun his wife, freeholders, and James Stewart, their
eldest son and apparent heir, and Helen Sinclare his wife," &c., &c.
Amongst the lands conveyed was part of the lands of Ogilface, called
"Little Brighouse, with the fortalice and wards."
The fortalice, as above mentioned, was in all likelihood the larger
block, which was probably built by James Stewart and his wife Helen
Sinclair during the lifetime of his father. At all events, this would
account for the Sinclair arms being here.
William, Earl of Linlithgow, was evidently interested in the place, and
wished to buy back the dismembered lands, as in 1591 he again purchased
various portions of the barony. It seems very likely that he then enlarged
the castle so as to make it a place of occasional retirement, for he was
custodier of Linlithgow Palace, about three miles distant, where he had an
official residence.
The older part of the structure probably dates from the earlier half of
the sixteenth century, and is a specimen of towards the end of the Third
Period.
LORDSCAIRNIE CASTLE, Fifeshire.
A large simple keep of the Third Period, which stands on level low-
lying ground in the middle of the hills about three miles north of Cupar.
Fig. 209.— Lordscairnie Castle. Plan of First Floor.
The site on which it is built rises slightly above the general level of
the ground around, which was clearly a marsh in former times, but has
now been drained.
The structure (Fig. 209) is 55 feet in length by 34 feet wide, with a
projecting tower at the north-west angle containing the entrance door-
LORDSCAIRNIE CASTLE
279 —
THIRD PERIOD
way and staircase. The walls are about 6 feet in thickness, and the
whole building is very substantially though plainly constructed. The
ground floor has contained the usual vaulted cellai's, but the vaults are
now demolished. The first floor was occupied with the great hall, 42 feet
long by 2 1 feet wide. It was lighted by windows on three sides, all
formed with deep square arched ingoings, which probably contained
stone seats, and the fireplace is in the south side wall. Above this
there were two floors, which no doubt contained bedrooms ; but the
interior is now entirely gutted.
Fig. 210.— Lordscaiinie Oastle. View from North-East.
^!^^^^^&mm^-^-
At the south-east angle (Fig. 210) the corbelling of a corner bartizan
still exists, and two bold corbels are still visible at the top of the tower
over the doorway, which they protected with a machicolation. At
a short distance from the north-east angle are the remains of a circular
tower, which doubtless formed part of the fortifications of the wall which
formerly enclosed the courtyard. The whole edifice is a good example of
the simple and massive structures erected in the fifteenth century. This
castle belonged to, and was probably erected in the middle of that century
by, Alexander, fourth Earl of Crawford— known as " Earl Beardie," or
the " Tiger Earl," from his personal appearance and fierce disposition.
The great hall was fitted up and used as a church by the parish
minister of Moonzie, when he was ejected from the parish church at
THIRD PERIOD
280
STANELY CASTLE
the Revolution. Since that time it has been allowed to fall into ruin,
but the solid walls have as yet resisted the elements, and the various
efforts which have been made to pull it to pieces.
STANELY CASTLE, Renfrewshire.
This structure now stands on a peninsula in the reservoir of the Paisley
Water Works, about two miles south of the town. The site was no doubt
Fig. -Jll.— Stauely Castle. Block Plan.
originally protected by a marsh. The castle is of the L Plan (Fig. 211),
and the exterior walls are well preserved, but the interior is entirely
gutted. The doorway is, as usual, in the re-entering angle (Fig. 212),
Fig. 212. — Stancly Castle. View tVoiu South- liast.
mu.
and the ground floor is pierced with several loops, which have an
ancient appearance, being formed with a circular eyelet at the lower
end (Fig. 213). The walls are built with coursed work, and the parapet
STANELY CASTLE
281
THIRD PERIOD
has run round the whole castle, with corbelled bartizans at the angles.
A similar bartizan is also introduced over the entrance doorway, with a
machicolation for its defence (see enlarged View, Fig. 214).
.V
Fig. 213. -Stauelj' Castle. View from South-West.
The corbelling of the parapet is continuous, a form occasionally used
in the West — as, for instance, at Law Castle, Brodick Castle, and others.
The castle and bai'ony of Stanely or Stainly belonged in the fourteenth
century to the Danzielstons of that ilk, and passed by marriage to
Maxwell of Calderwood, and through them in the fifteenth century to
Fig. 214. — Stauely Castle. Machicolation over Doorway.
the Maxwells of Newark, In 1629 the estate was sold to Lady Ross, and
is now the property of the Earl of Glasgow.* The castle was no doubt
built by the Maxwells in the fifteenth century. Close by is an interesting
standing stone set in a broad socket (see Fig. 213).
* Crawford's Ren/reivshire, p. 89.
THIRD PERIOD
282
INVERQUHARITY CASTLE
INVERQUHA.RITY CASTLE,* Forfarshire.
This castle is situated three and a half miles north-east of the town of
Kirriemuir. It stands on the edge of a steep bank rising about 30 feet
from the Carity Burn, which joins the South Esk about one mile further
down.
The castle has been of the L shape of plan, but the eastern wing is
almost entirely gone, having been demolished that the materials might
Fig. 215.— Invcrquliarity Castle. Plans and Section.
be used in building the old farm-steading of Inverquharity. The entrance
door is in the re-entering angle of the main block, with a circular stair
adjoining in the thickness of the wall.
The existing block (Fig. 215) measures 45 feet long by 33 feet wide, with
walls 7 feet 6 inches thick. It is in good preservation, and has been
built of fine dressed ashlar inside and out.
The castle is of great strength, and contains two vaulted floors (see
Section, Fig. 215). The lower vault has an intermediate floor constructed
* For the Plans and description of this castle we are indebted to Mr. George
G. Milne, architect.
INVERQUHARITY CASTLE — 283 — THIRD PERIOD
of timber, which still exists, and the joisting is supported by stone corbels.
The lower room was probably used for sheltering cattle in at night, when
any apprehension of a visit from lawless Highland neighbours was antici-
pated. The herds and servants usually found their accommodation in the
loft in the vault. These two rooms are very feebly lighted with narrow
slits, having wide arched recesses inside.
The great hall over the first vault is reached in a peculiar way. The
ascent is partly by the wheel-stair already referred to, off which runs
a straight stair in a narrow passage, which is continued in the thickness
of the side and end walls for a distance of about 21 feet, till the hall door
is reached. Usually the hall enters directly from the stair, and the only
apparent object in having this winding passage is to complicate the
entrance, and thus add to the security of the house.
The hall is a very fine chamber, measuring about 30 feet in length by
19 feet in width, and 21 feet to the apex of the vaulted roof. It is
lighted by two arched windows in the east and west walls, having stone
seats in the ingoings ; and at the south end there is a fine arched and
moulded fireplace, having a high window over it. This window probably
lighted an upper floor in the vault over the hall, as at Craigmillar
and Castle Campbell. In the west wall of the hall there is a dark mural
chamber, measuring about 11 feet by 5 feet, which doubtless would be
used as a sleeping place.
In the north-west corner of the great hall a remarkable and unusual
arrangement occurs. This consists of a stone porch projecting into the
hall and entering from it, from which a few steps lead down in the
thickness of the wall, and terminate in a window at a lower level. It
is difiicult to conjecture what this place was used for ; it cannot have been
a hiding-place, as the porch makes it too conspicuous, nor could it have
been a prison as the place is so small ; possibly it was the upper part of a
stair to the basement now altered.
The kitchen was probably in the demolished wing on the level of the
hall floor, as what seems to have been a service window still exists in the
wall between the hall and the demolished wing. Above the vault of the
hall is the attic, with the original timber roof still entire. It is well
lighted, and has two fireplaces with bead mouldings, and each contains
a small ambry. There being two fireplaces, it is probable that this floor
was divided into two bedrooms, in each of which was a peculiar low-roofed
mural recess on the floor level, which was probably a garde-robe. Access
is obtained round the top of the castle by a wide battlement walk or
allure. The walk is paved with stones overlapping each other, and
sloping towards the parapet, so as to carry the rain water to the stone
gargoyles. There are wide machicolations between the large corbels over
the doorway (Fig. 216), through which missiles could be dropped on parties
attempting an entrance ; and the angles of the battlements have fine
THIRD PERIOD
284
INVERQUHARITY CASTLE
projecting circular stone bartizans. The whole is a very perfect example
of a crenellated parapet. By walking round the battlements a capehouse,
which is seen conspicuously in the view over the staircase, is reached.
This capehouse is ornamented with gabled crow-steps, each step being
Fig. 216. —Inver(|uhavity Castle. View from South-East.
finished with a gablet in a manner not frequently seen in Scotland, except
in churches. Probably most of the examples of this kind of gablet are to
be found in this, the eastern central district of Scotland, such as at Farnell
and Mains Castle, and some of the domestic buildings at Arbroath.
The entrance doorway, which has a pointed arch, is furnished with an
BRODICK CASTLE
285
THIRD PERIOD
iron yett, constructed on the usual principles, with upright and horizontal
bars going through each other, the mode of intersection being reversed in
the opposite quarters. For the erection of these yetts special licences
"were granted by the king. The licence for this one is still in existence,
and has been printed by Mr. Jervise in the Memorials of Angus and the
Mearns, p. 17. It was granted by James li. in the year 1444, and is
entitled, " Rex — A Licence be the King to Al. Ogilvy of Inercarity
(second baron), to fortifie his house and put ane iron yet therein."
This castle belonged to a branch of the Ogilvies from 1420 till the end
of last century. They received a baronetcy in 1626, and many of the
representatives were distinguished in local history. The castle is in the
style of the Third Period.
BRODICK CASTLE, Buteshire.
This well-known castle, the residence of the Duke of Hamilton in
Arran, is situated on high ground overlooking the bay and village of
Fig. 217.— Brodick Castle. View from South-East.
Brodick. A large modern addition, which is seen in the distance on the
left of the views (Figs. 217 and 218), has been erected at the west of the
THIRD PERIOD
— 286
BRODICK CASTLE
K^=■*?^^•^^. , Ff
BRODICK CASTLE
— 287 —
THIRD PERIOD
ancient structure. From the above views it will also be seen that the old
part of the castle consists of several different divisions. There are first
ENTRANCE
PLAN OF GROUND FLOOR
Fio. 219.— Brodick Castle. Plans.
the irregular towers at the east end, and about one half of the main
oblong building adjoining ; second, the western part of the latter block ;
and third, the battery to the east. It will be observed (see Fig. 218)
THIRD PERIOD
288 BRODICK CASTLE
that the parapet at the top of the main building changes in design about
the centre, and that the levels of the windows are different in the east and
west divisions. In a line down from the point where the change of
parapets occurs a joint is traceable in the masonry. The change of design
is also clearly shown on the plan of the battlements (Fig. 219).
In the modern arrangement of the castle the entrance is in the new
buildings at the west end. In the olden time the entrance was at the
east end, as shown on the Ground Floor Plan (see Fig. 219) and View
(see Fig. 217). The entrance was approached by a flight of seven or eight
steps, which led into a porch in the later erection connected with the
battery. At the foot of the steps the " louping-on stone " still exists.
These various groups of buildings are evidently all of different ages,
the battery being probably of the seventeenth century ; the high east
tower with its staircase is not later than the beginning of that century ;
while the circular part of the stair tower in the angle and the lower part
of the main walls (with the battery) may belong to a much earlier struc-
ture, the upper part of the walls, with the windows, parapets, and gables,
being apparently of the sixteenth century.
The ground floor is arched, and some of the doorways in the passage
and the vaulting of the east tower on the upper floor are pointed. The
kitchen, owing to the natural fall of the ground towards the west, has a
very lofty ceiling, and a series of steps leads down to this part of the
castle. Two wheel-stairs, the grouping of which on the exterior has such
a picturesque appearance, gave access to the upper floors, and are con-
nected with each other.
There are various new buildings along the north side and adjoining
the eastern tower, which are partly shown in outline on the Plan. The
steps into the top story of this tower descend from the passage on the
level of the stair landing. It is a lofty apartment with a pointed arch,
and opening from it up two steps there is a curious mural closet.
The battlement walk is open all round (except where the new castle
joins at the west end), as will be seen on the plan of the battlements.
This also shows the usual capehouse at the top of the stair, and another
capehouse or watch-house adjoining it and entering from it.
The battery at the east end contains an arched chamber on the ground
floor, with very thick walls, except the front or south wall, which is only
4 feet 6 inches thick. It was probably so made because the ground slopes
very rapidly in front down to the sea, and the possibility of the battery
being attacked on that side was not entertained. The side most open to
attack was the east, where the wall is constructed of great thickness, and
is angled off as shown on the Plan. A wheel-stair opposite the entrance
door leads up to the battery, which was an open platform with a parapet
wall looped for guns. Near the corner of the main castle there is one of
the usual widely-splayed gun-holes.
THOMASTON CASTLE
— 289 —
THIRD PERIOD
The castle contains a few relics of feudal life, such as the stocks for
fastening the legs of prisoners, but generally the i]iternal arrangements
are very much modernised.
Brodick has been a place of importance from an early period. It is
mentioned in these words by Fordun, writing in the end of the fourteenth
century : " Arran, where are two royal castles, Brethwyk and Lochransie."
It is not, however, to be supposed that the royal castle referred to is the
building which now exists. As we have seen, there have been many
upturnings and rebuildings here, and probably not a stone of Fordun's
castle remains.
The castle of Brodick was stormed by the Earl of Ross in 1455, and
according to the New Statistical Account, he "levelled it to the ground."
Again, in 1544, the Earl of Lennox, in the interest of Henry viii., is said
to have demolished the castle ; and in 1638-39, it was put into a state of
defence by the Marquis of Hamilton in the interest of Charles i.
These partial demolitions and reconstructions have doubtless greatly
modified the appearance of the castle, but it is most probable that the
main structure dates from about 1500.
THOMASTON CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A well-preserved ruin, situated near the southern entrance to the
grounds of Colzean Castle and about a mile from Kirk Oswald.
Fio. ■3-2n.— Tlinmaston Castlo. Plan of First Floor.
This castle is said to have been built by a nephew of King Robert the
Bruce, but it is clearly of a much later date. The lands of Thomaston
THIRD PERIOD
— 290 —
THOMASTON CASTLE
doubtless belonged to Bruce's nephew, and he may possibly have erected
a keep thereon, but the present structure is of a form of plan, and the
external features are of a design, which belong to the beginning of the
sixteenth century. About that date the family of Corry of Kelwood
became the proprietors, and the castle was most likely built by them.
Their earliest charter is one to Thomas Corry by James iv. in 1507.
Several other charters to his successors of the same family exist, extending
till the middle of the seventeenth century, when the estate passed, prob-
ably by marriage, to the M 'II vanes of Grimmet, who remained in posses-
sion till the middle of the eighteenth century. The edifice continued to
"be inhalnted up to the beginning of the present century.*
, l/Aii'Ai^'^><:''ci'
Pig. 221. — Thomaston Castle. View from South-West.
The structure (Fig. 220) is of the L form, with a staircase tower in
the re-entering angle. There seems to have been a courtyard on the south
side of the castle, with buildings running south from the south-east wing.
In consequence of this arrangement the entrance to the courtyard was
formed by an arched passage under the south end of the wing, as shown
by dottecl lines on the Plan. The inner opening of this passage is also
seen in Fig. 221. The entrance doorway to the main building is in the
western side of the central tower, in which a circular stair led to the
upper floors and the battlements.
* Paterson's Ayr and Wifjton, Vol. ii. pp. 352-56.
DENMILNE CASTLE 291 THIRD PERIOD
The basement floor contains four vaulted cellars in the main building
and one in the wing, very much filled up with rubbish. One of these was
probably the kitchen. The first floor seems to have been divided into a
hall and private room in the main block, and a bedroom in the wing. A
carefully constructed wall-chamber still exists at the north-west angle, and
the private stair to the wine cellar is visible in the south-west angle in the
thickness of the wall. The upper floor no doubt contained a number of
bedrooms, and there was probably an attic story in the roof.
A parapet supported on throe rows of continuous corbelling surrounds
the building, with angle turrets at all the corners supported on similar
corbels — features which recall castles of the same date in the West, such
as Law, Stanely, &c.
Thomaston has been a castle of some size and importance. The main
block is 60 feet long by 28 feet wide, and the wing is 22 feet by 20 feet.
The structures in the courtyard, which may have been of some extent,
have now entirely disappeared. A door leading to these was formed in
the arched entrance passage (see Fig. 220).
It is unfortunate that such a good specimen of our domestic style of
the sixteenth century should have been allowed to fall into the neglected
and semi-ruinous state in which it now is.
DENMILNE CASTLE, Fifeshire.
This simple castle, which stands in a hollow about one mile south of
Newburgh, has been added to by a back wing, which gives it a plan
somewhat of an L form, but not quite in keeping with the ordinary
shape. The interior is much ruined, but still retains the vaults of the
ground floor. Externally (Fig. 222), the building shows indications of
late work of the Third Period in the wide shot-holes of the basement,
with large windows on the upper floors, and the enriched corbelling of the
sixteenth century.
From 1452 the estate of Denmiln belonged to the family of Balfour,
having been given by James ii. to James Balfour, son of Sir John Balfour
of Balgarvy, for faithful service. Of this family sprang Sir James
Balfour, a celebrated antiquary and friend of Drummond of Haw-
thornden, Dr. Balfour, and other distinguished men.
Dr. Laing says of this venerable structure :* "Denmiln Castle for a
generation was a centre of learning and refinement, the resort of the
most eminent in literature at the time, and the meeting-place of all who
had the promotion of learning and the intellectual advancement of
Scotland at heart."
* Hiatory of Lindores Abbey, p. 372.
THIRD PERIOD
292 —
COURTYARD PLANS
Fig. 222.— Denmilne Castle. View from Soutli-East.
This and other simple edifices show how pLain and frugal was the
manner of life in Scotland, even amongst the most advanced, in the
seventeenth century.
COURTYARD PLANS.
These are the castles which form the distinctive edifices of this period
— such fortresses as Craigmillar, Doune, Tantallon, (fee, with structures
erected round the courtyards, being very difierent in character from the
simple keeps which characterise the Second Period.
In the following examples some have been originally constructed as
Courtyard Plans, while others have been first built as keeps, and extended
GLENGARNOCK CASTLE
293
THIRD PERIOD
into courtyards at a later period. It will be observed that in some cases the
buildings are very irregularly and capriciously placed round the enclosing
walls, while in others the quadrangular idea is more completely worked
out and perfected.
We commence, as usual, with the castles of the West, and follow the
same topographical arrangement as before.
GLENGARNOCK CASTLE, Ayrshire.
An ancient structure with a keep and courtyard, grandly situated in a
wild ravine among the hills lying to the north of Kilbirnie. It stands on
G A R N O C K
the extreme edge of a long narrow plateau, the sides of which are very
steep, and in places quite precipitous beneath the walls of the castle.
THIRD PKRIOD
— 294 —
GLENGARNOCK CASTLK
The neck on the east side, where the pLiteau leaves the side of the glen,
has been cut through by a ditch, strengthened with a mound on the
inside, at a distance of about seventy paces from the walls. The wild
brawling stream of the Garnock runs round the west end of the plateau,
through a i-ough and rocky gorge, which effectually defends the castle
from approach on that side.
The remains of the Ijuilding (Fig. 223), which are considerable, consist
of a keep, occupying the whole length of the western extremity of the
plateau, and irregular structures surrounding a courtyard, with an
approach on the east side. The various buildings inside the curtain walls
Fiu. 224. — Gleiigaruuck Castlu. View from Nortli-East Aii{,'lc ol Courtyaid,
are all now in a state of ruin. The west or outer wall of the keep, as
well as the south wall, with part of the north wall, are entire up to the
height of a string-course, which doubtless supported the parapet and
battlements (Fig. 224).
The keep measures about 45 feet 6 inches from north to south by 35
feet 6 inches from east to west. The ground floor was vaulted, and has no
opening in any of the three walls now standing, so that it must have been
very dark. The hall floor is likewise vaulted, and is of great height.
There has not apparently been any upper floor in this vault, but it is too
ruinous to enable one to speak positively on this point. The entrance
to the hall floor was probably by a high door in the north wall, and
GLENGARNOCK CASTLE 295 THIRD PERIOD
there seems to have been a wheel-stair iu tlie south-west corner leading to
the top. There is a handsome round arched window in the west wall of
the hall, ovei'looking the stream, some 60 feet or so beneath ; there are
also two narrow windows in the south gable. The fireplace must have
been in the part of the east wall next the courtyard, now destroyed.
The buildings round the courtyard have been at least two stories high,
and have been, like the whole castle, well and strongly built. A curious
fireplace occurs in the north wall of the front
building. The jamb mouldings with their
capitals, Avhicli alone exist, the lintel or arch
being gone, do not correspond in design, as will
be seen from Sketch (Fig. 225). "We are satisfied
that this is original, and that the fireplace, which
is 10 or 12 feet above the ground, has not been ^F'°- 225.-GiengaiuockCasUc.
° ' Caps at each side of a Fireplace.
tampered with.
The buttress-like wall jutting outwards at right angles from the noi'th
boundary wall has been constructed to intercept the passage of any
climber attempting the castle round the north side. The postern shown a
little further to the west leads out to the steep face of the hill side, and
may probably have been meant for a secret exit.
The building marked Kitchen on the south side of the courtyard is
complete on the ground floor, and is vaulted. Its low doorway at the
west end has a three-centred arch, 2 feet 7 inches wide, and a bar-hole
inside. The apartment is lighted by a window on the south side, at a
considerable height above the ground, and by a small pointed window
(seen in View, Fig. 224) towards the courtyard. Its fireplace is a neat
arched projecting structure, of smaller size than usual in kitchens. At
the opposite end are what seem to be the remains of a drain.
The present gap in the curtain forming the entrance is wider than the
original entrance gateway ; and in the ingoing of the north side of the
gap, about 10 feet above the ground, there exists what seems to have been
an ambry, like those seen in the ingoings of windows, thus leading to the
conclusion that buildings existed above over the gateway. The ambry
is shown by white lines on the north side of the gap. On the opposite
side there exists on the inside the commencement of an arch ; and it
seems highly probable that there has been an arched passage or pend
leading to the courtyard with apartments over — as at Balvaird and
elsewhere.
Glengarnock, like many other Scottish castles of the Third Period, is
an example of a keep with a courtyard attached, round which various
buildings have gradually accumulated. The courtyard walls, like those of
Doune, have round corbelled turrets at the angles, shown by lines on the
Plan. These have perpendicular openings or machicolations (as at Saddell),
meant for use in defence. Glengarnock has thus the usual characteristics
THIRD PERIOD 296 CRAIGIE CASTLE
of tlie castles of tlie Third Period. It is certainly not a thirteenth-century
structure, as has been sometimes stated.
The barony of Glengarnock belonged, at the end of the thirteenth
century, to the family of Cuningham, with whom it remained till the first
quarter of the seventeenth century. In the Scottish Journal of Topography
(Vol. II. p. 89), the castle is said " to have been abandoned as a residence,
and shortly afterwards to have fallen into ruins, early in the last
century." The same authority states that " the materials for building-
several farm-houses have been at difierent times torn from the structure,"
and that a storm in 1839 overthrew the missing wall of the keep.
CRAIGIE CASTLE,* Ayrshire.
The ruins of this once extensive castle ai-e situated about five miles
south from Kilmarnock, on the south-western slope of Craigie Hill. They
stand on a grassy knoll rising out of a plateau, and appear to have been
surrounded by a ditch.
It is greatly to be regretted that this fine specimen of Gothic Castel-
lated Architecture should have been allowed to fall into such a state of
ruin as it now presents, for it undoubtedly contained one of the finest
specimens of a vaulted hall to be found in Scotland. Its groined arches
are quite equal to any of those in our abbeys or churches, while amongst
castles its only rivals of the same period have been at TuUiallan, Both-
well, and Auchendoun. The neighbouring castle of Dundonald also con-
tains a ruined vaulted hall ; but there the vaulting was not true groining,
as pointed out in the notice of that edifice, but the spurious kind referred
to in the Introduction to this volume.
The hall (Fig. 226) is on the ground floor, and, along with another
extended building, has divided the castle into two equal halves, with
an eastern and western courtyard. It measures (Fig. 227) about 46 feet
from east to west by 21 feet from north to south, and the vault was about
25 feet high to the central ridge rib. The vaulting is divided into three
bays (Fig. 228), and the ribs spring from beautifully carved corbels all
of difierent design (Figs. 229 and 230). A section of the rib mouldings is
given in Fig. 229, from which it will be seen that the diagonal ribs differ
from the transverse ribs, and both from the ridge ribs. The hall was
lighted by three windows on each side, placed high up between the wall
ribs. These windows, although extremely simple, have a very sticking
and massive appearance. They are small, measuring only about 3 feet
6 inches high by about 14 inches wide. They are lintelled externally and
* We are indebted to Mr. Railton for a Plan and Section of Craigie Castle, which,
along with our own measurements and sketches, have been of service in preparing
the various drawings accompanying this notice.
CRAIGIIi; CASTLE
297 TIIIUD PERIOD
Fig. '2'27.— Craigie Castle. Plan of Hall (enlarged).
THIRD PERIOD
298 —
CRAIGIE CASTLE
splayed towards the inner face of the wall, till they reach a breadth of
nearly 8 feet, where they are arched with a chamfered semi-circle rising
from a corner bead or nook shaft, finished with a simple moulded cap.
The height of the opening on the inside face of the wall is about 10 feet.
The springing of the arch of a window in the west wall still exists, but
the east wall is entirely gone except the foundations. The ruined fire-
place is near the south-east corner of the hall, and the flue is carried up
in the centre of one of the windows just described. This window has
^'^ m_^
lii-|i^£|^
n
r^w
ii,i"'B
r^i' *i
Fig. 2-2o.— Craigie Castle. Hall, lioin West.
apparently been built up to allow the flue to pass, but whether this is an
alteration or a part of the original intention is not clear owing to the
ruinous condition of the structure. In the north gable there is a round
dungeon-like vault, measuring about 1 1 feet by 8 feet. This was entered
from the wheel-stair, which is shown by a circle on Plan, as having existed
at the north-east corner. Outside the south gable of the hall there appears
to have been a continuatioir of the keep southwards, as indicated by the
ruins of the vaulted apartment shown on the Plan. The total length of
CRAIGIE CASTLE
299 —
THIllD PERIOD
this block, including the keep, has been about 98 feet from noi'th to soutli
by about 36 feet in width over the walls.
Above the vaulted hall there was an apartment of the same size,
lighted with side arched windows, as shown in the internal elevation (Fig.
231). These windows had stone seats, and the fireplace was in the north
gable, as shown by one of its jambs which still remains (see Fig. 230).
Fi«. 229.— Craigie Castlu. Details of Hall.
This upper apartment has also been of fine construction, but it is now
irrecoverably gone.
The entrance gateway and passage into the castle appear to have been
at the north-west corner and along a roadway outside the west curtain
wall. At the gateway there was probably a kind of entrance pend or
arched passage, with a circular tower or bastion at the north end. Within
the enclosing wall was a courtyard surrounded by buildings. From the
THIRD PERIOD
300 —
CRAIGIE CASTLK
courtyard there was an entrance door into the great hall, which is now
and lias been for long built up. The other courtyard on the east side of
the great hall seems to be quite cut off from the one just referred to by
the keep. It has had various enclosures and vaulted chambers, but no
definite plan can now be made out ; possibly an enclosing wall surrounded
the castle on the north side and left room for communication round the
north end of the keep.
Fig. 230.— Craigie Castle. Hall, from South.
The castle evidently dates from the fifteenth century, although it is
not all of such an early period. There is a wide-splayed shot-hole adjoin-
ing the entrance passage which probably indicates work of the following
century.
The lands of Craigie were in the possession of the Lindsays from an
early date. About the year 1371 John Wallace of Riccarton married the
heiress of Craigie and obtained the property. The Wallaces thereafter
quartered the Lindsay arms with their own, and it is mentioned in local
works that a shield bearing that quartering is built into the wall of the
farm steading of Craigie Mains, near the castle.
ARDROSSAN CASTLR
301
TIIIKI) PERIOD
Fig. 231— Craigio Castle. Section of Hall, looking East.
The Wallaces are said to have resided at Craigie till 1600, when they
removed to the castle of Newton-on-Ayr. After that time Craigie seems
to have been allowed to fall into ruin.
ARDROSSAN CASTLE, Ayrshire.
Only a few fragments remain of this once powerful fortress of the
Montgomeries. The lands were acquired by that family through marriage
Fro. 2:i2. — Ardrossan Castle. View from Nortli-Wcst.
THIRD PERIOD
— 302
ARDSTINCHAR CASTLE
about 1376, The ruins stand on a knoll overlooking the town and railway
station. The castle is said to have been destroyed by Cromwell, and there
now only remain (Figs. 232 and 233) a portion of one tower, a vaulted
kitchen, and two cellars.
1 1
^1
The former retains a few corbels of the parapet and the jambs of a
fireplace, a loophole, &c. These and other details indicate a date probably
in the fifteenth century. Various alterations have evidently been made
at subsequent times— windows being built up and sliot-holes and gargoyles
introduced into them, &c.
ARDSTINCHAR CASTLE, Ayrshire.
This castle was the seat of the Kennedies, lairds of Bargany. Though
now reduced to a fragment of the keep and a few foundations of the walls,
it was once a place of some extent and importance. It stands close to the
village of Ballantrae, near the mouth of the River Stinchar, on a rocky
height commanding the entrance into Carrick from the south, both by the
coast and by the valley of the Stinchar.
The Ilistorie of the Kennedyis states that the castle was built by Hugh
Kennedy in the middle of the fifteenth century. He was "anesecund
broder [of Dunure] quha wes first putt to haue bein ane Freir ; bot his
ARDSTINCHAR CASTLE
— 303
THIRD PERIOD
currage, not agreabill to sa
base ane office, lost the same,
and passitt with the Laird
of Blaquhame to France, to
Chairllis the vii., in the yeir
of our Lord 143L He was
callit Freir Hew," and so
pleased the King of France
that he remained with him
many years, accompanied him
to the Holy Land, and re-
ceived from him "in recom-
panse of his seruice, mony
gritt rewairdis of gold and
mony ; and abuiff all, he gaiff
him leifF to weir airmis quar-
terly in his airmis, to wit,
flour-de-lyse, quhilk that hous
weiris to this day." " He
com to Scotland, and bocht
the ten pund land of Arsten-
sar, and buildit the house
Fig. '234
-Arclstinchar Castle
Keep fioiu ^tith East
thairof, and conqueist mony ma landis, be the benefeitt off' the stipend of
the King of France. This
Freir Hewis oy wes callit
' Com with the penny,' quha
conqueist the grittest pairt
off" all the lewing, quhilk now
is ane gritt rent."
The castle has been of con-
siderable extent, the buildings
having occupied an irregular
platform about 120 feet from
north to south and about the
same from east to west. The
outline can be traced, but
the structures are almost
entirely gone. The entrance
gate was apparently at the
north-west angle, and the
keep, a small part of which
only now exists (Figs. 234
and 235), occupied the
highest point at the eastern
SM(tr,W7-%'fe>
Fifi. 235.— Ardstiiioliar Castle. Keep, from South-East.
THIRD PERIOD
304 —
ARDSTINCHAR CASTLE
angle. The corbels of the parapet are the only details, and they are of
the simplest pattern.
Towards the end of the sixteenth century a deadly feud arose between
the laird of Bargany and the Earl of Cassillis, in consequence of which
Fig. 236. -Kennedy Monument, Ballantrae.
Bargany, with a few attendants, while returning from Ayr, was attacked
by the earl with about thirty horsemen. Bargany was wounded and
carried to Ayr, where he died, and his body remained in a leaden coffin in
the kirk Some time afterwards (1605) Lady Bargany died also, and was
laid beside her husband in the Kirk of Ayr. The funeral of both being
DUNGLASS CASTLE
305
THIRD PERIOD
resolved on " in the new kirk of Ballantry ; quhilk tlie lady had caussitt
build for hir husband, quhair scho had gartt sett wp ane glorieous towme,"
great prepai\ations were made, and the funeral was attended by several
earls and noblemen and about a thousand gentlemen, with their attendants.
" His sister-sone, young Aucliindrayne, beirand the Banner of Rewendge,
quhaii'in was payntitt his portratour, with all his wondis, with his sone
sittand at his kneyis, and this deattone writtine betuix his handis,
'judge and rewendgk my caus, o lord!' and sa conwayit to Air ; bur
all werry honourabilly, to the number off ane Thousand horse, of Gentil-
menne ; and layd in the foirsaid Tome."
The tomb still exists, the " aisle " or wing built by Lady Bargany
having been preserved when the rest of the church was demolished, about
the beginning of this century.
It is an excellent example (Fig. 236) of the "glorious tombs " which it
was the fashion to erect in the seventeenth century, and of which several
examples are given further on. This aisle and tomb still constitute the
last resting-place of the descendants of the ancient family of the Kennedies
of Bargany.
DUNGLASS CASTLE, Dumbartonshire.
This fragmentary castle stands in the immediate vicinity of Bowling,
on an irregular rocky cliff washed by the River Clyde, near the point
where the broader estuary narrows into the river.
FiQ. 237." -Dunglass C.istle. Plan.
U
THIRD PERIOD
— 306
DUNGLASS CASTLE
The castle has suffered a great amount of demolition and spoliation, so
that now only a very imperfect idea can be formed of what it was before
=^^??^
Fig. 238.— Dunglass Castle. View from South-West.
1735, when the Commissioners of Supply made an order for using it as a
quarry for repairing the quay. This work of
destruction was only stopped when the place
was purchased by Mr. Buchanan of Auchen-
torlie.
The top of the cliff was enclosed with
a high wall, of which the portions shaded
black on the Plan (Fig. 237) still remain,
mixed up in parts with modern work. The
most considerable portions now existing are
the south and west walls, against which
buildings were formerly erected, as is
apparent from the small windows in these
walls (Fig. 238). At the outside of the
south wall, near its west end, there is a
small landing-place from the river. This
appears to have been protected by a hoard-
ing in the castle wall, some of the corbels
for which still remain. Over the door in
this wall are the remains of a row of corbels,
the walls or a considerable part of them
Fig. 239.— Dunglass Castle.
North-West Turret.
These probably ran round
(see Fig. 238).
DUNGLASS CASTLE
307
TIURD PERIOD
Fro. 240.— Dunglass Castle. Tower.
Two corbels occur jit the small break in the projecting part of the south
front. They are only a few feet above the rock, and are quite accessible.
Being on the outside of the castle, they appear as if they would be useful
to the enemy rather than to the in-
mates. But these corbels probably
supported the flue of a garde-robe or
other structure now removed.
At the north-west corner of the
enclosure a dwelling-house has been
erected. It is partly old, but mostly
modern. The north-west turret, with
its chequered corbelling (Fig. 239),
indicated by dotted lines on the Plan,
gives an idea of what its features
have been ; but the interior of the
house is entirely modern. There are
no other ancient details about the
structure except the gateway in the
north wall, with some narrow slits,
all adjoining the house.
The round tower (shown on Plan
and by Fig. 240) is probably of the seventeenth century. It appears to
have been a pigeon-house. The north-east corner, where the obelisk
stands to the memory of Henry Bell, is considerably the highest part of
the enclosure.
Dunglass was the chief stronghold
of the barony of Colquhoun. From
1439 to 1478 the castle was occupied
by Sir J. Colquhoun, Chamberlain of
Scotland. In 1480 Lady Luss had a
liferent of the lands and fortress, and
was bound to keep the latter in good
repair. The letters V. C. are said to
have been carved over one of the door-
ways, and they are believed to repre-
sent Humphi'ey Colquhoun of Luss,
who was treacherously slain at Ban-
nachra in 1592,* and by whom the more modern house is believed to
have been erected.
On the corbel of the north-west turret (Fig. 241) there is a rude
carving of the Colquhoun arms — a saltier impaled — with the letter C.
alongside, and a face rudely carved on a shield.
* Irving's Dumhartonsldre.
Fio. 241. — Dunglass Castle. Colquhoun Arms.
THIRD PERIOD
— 308 —
MUGDOCK CASTLE
MCTGDOCK CASTLE,* Stirlingshhie.
This ancient castle, the home of the Grahams, and the probable birth-
place of the great Montrose, is situated in the parish of Strathblane,
about seven miles north from Glasgow. It is now in a very fragmentary
condition, but from what remains one can see that it has been a large
and important fortress. It stands in an upland district on the west side
of Mugdock Loch (Fig. 242), a small sheet of water covering less than
fifty acres, but which has evidently been at some former period of greater
extent than it is now.
Fig. 242.— Mugdock Castle. Plan.
The ground around the castle is very irregular. From the chapel to
the south tower (Fig. 243), a distance of about 320 feet, there runs a
fairly level ridge, with a steep bank sloping down from the north side of
the chapel to the old level of the loch. From this point the ridge bends
round towards the east and south for about 200 yards, in the form of a
peninsula, so that one half of the castle bounds (on the north and east)
was protected by water ; while the remaining half, which along the south
side lay in the track of the present roadway, was doubtless secured round
the south and west sides by a ditch with a rampart, over which there
was probably a drawbiidge opposite the portcullis gate.
What remains of the castle (see Fig. 243) comprises part of the north-west
wall of enceinte, with a square tower at either extremity ; portions of the
south-west wall, with the jambs of the portcullis gate ; and the chapel and
other buildings, which stand detached to the northwai"ds. Extending from
* We are much indebted to the proprietor, J. Guthrie Smith, Esq., for assistance
in preparing the Plan and notice of Mugdock.
MUGDOCK CASTLK -^ 309 THIRD PERIOD
the latter southwards, for a
distance of about 200 feet, the
foundations of a wall have
been traced (as shown by lines
on Plan), while scattered
about the ground in various
directions fragmentary pieces
of wall have at different times
been disclosed ; but these are
not in sufficient masses to
afford much additional in-
formation. The tower at the
south-west corner is almost
entire. It is an irregular
square on Plan, of about 24
feet in diameter, and con-
tained four • stories. It
measures 59 feet in height
at the south-west corner,
from the ground to the top
of the parapet wall. The
first floor is spanned by a
vault supported on broad
splayed ribs, similar to the
vault at Yester. On the
ground floor, in the thickness
of the wall, and up a few
steps, there is a very complete
garde-robe, having no visible
outlet, but that would be
without doubt to the ditch,
and may probably be con-
cealed by a bank of earth and
vegetation.
The entrance doorway was
on the first floor (Fig. 244),
and was originally reached
by a ladder from the court-
yard, there being no internal
communication between it and
the ground floor. From the
first floor a wheel-stair in the
south-east corner gives access
to the second floor, at the
f 10. 243.— Mugdock Castle. Plan.
THIRD PERIOD
310
MUG DOCK CASTLE
level of which the wheel-stair ends, there not being sufficient thickness of
wall above to accommodate it.
The second floor is on the same level as the top of the wall of
enceinte (Fig. 245) ; and the manner in which the latter buts against
the tower gives ample thickness for such a stair in the lower stories.
From the second floor upwards a straight flight of steps in the east wall
leads to the top of the tower, where the battlements, which are in good
presei-vation, consist of a high parapet wall without embrasures. The
roof of the tower is modern, but is exactly of the same form as the old
roof, which had to be taken off" a few years ago and repaired. This
Fiti. 244.— Mugdock Castle. Interior of Courtyard.
tower may or may not have been the keep of the castle. It is quite
likely that it is merely one of the mural towers — of which there were
probably several round the enceinte — and its appearance favours this
idea. It is a remarkably interesting example of good workmanship, with
several pointed doors, and one which is lintelled, and has the jambs
curved so as to form a corbel at each side beneath it. The other
tower, which is situated at a distance northwards of about 54 feet, is
very ruinous, only the vaulted ground floor remaining. It also enters from
the courtyard, and the ground floor has had no communication with the
floors above.
The curtain wall between these towers is nearly entire. The doorway
MUGDOCK CASTLE
— 311 —
THIRD PERIOD
(see Fig. 245), adjoining the south towei- and passing through the curtain,
is comparatively modern. This curtain wall seems to have received against
the interior a large apexed roof, the triangular form of which — evidently
of old construction — can be seen upon the wall which finishes square
above the roof.
The gateway, which is 8 feet 4i inches wide, is very ruinous, l)ut still
retains (as shown on Plan) the rebates fur outer and inner folding wooden
Fig. 245.- Mugdock Castle. View fioiu South-West.
gates, and the groove for a central portcullis. Unfortunately no remains
are preserved of the upper chamber, in which the apparatus for working
the portcullis would be placed. About 30 feet south-east from the gate-
way a small fragment is the only remaining portion of this wall still
existing (see Fig. 243).
Of the chapel (shown on the Plan and referred to above) not much
can be said, as all the stone dressings and indications of ecclesiastical
work have been destroyed. That it was a chapel is the tradition of
THIRD PERIOD 312 DALZELL CASTLE
the district, and there is nothing in its plan which contradicts this idea.
It measures internally 40 feet from east to west by 17 feet 3 inches from
north to south ; and although the walls are thin, and the building seem-
ingly stands outside the walls of enceinte, it resembles in these respects
the chapels of Dunstaffnage and Skipness. The tower, which projects
northwards from the chapel, seems to have been a latrine, the termination
of two large flues (now filled up), such as are usual in similar buildings,
being visible in the outside gable above the steep bank.
A modern mansion has been built in the centre of the courtyard by
John Guthrie Smith, Esq. This is connected on the first floor with the
old tower by a covered passage carried on a bold stone arch, so that the
tower now forms a part of the modern mansion. Its preservation is thus
secured, and all the other parts of the ruins are also carefully pi'otected.
The portion of the Plan shown by hatched lines consists of a row of
offices, probably dating from the seventeenth century.
The estate and castle of Mugdock were in the possession of the
Grahams from early in the thirteenth century, and it is quite possible
that the existing ruins are part of the castle referred to in a deed signed
in 1372 "Apud Manerium de Mugdok."
A more modern mansion seems to have been erected, as frequently
happened, within the ancient walls, probably in the sixteenth or seven-
teenth century. According to Mr. J. Guthrie Smith, it is stated by
Spalding in his history* that in 1641, when Montrose was a prisoner in
Edinburgh Castle, Lord Sinclair, by direction of the Committee of Estates,
" violently brak up the gates and doors " of the place of old Montrose, and
that they also demolished his " staitly house of Mugdok." Mr. Smith
observes that the castle " was only partially destroyed at this time, for
the earl was living thei-e in retirement for some time before he started on
his famous campaign of 1644." The same authority tells us that " the
part of the house fronting the loch and one of the towers (the northmost
shown on Plan) were allowed to fall into ruins after they were harried by
the Buchanans in 1644." Out of the remains of this harried and burnt
mansion a nondescript house was erected in 1655 of no architectural
interest, with which a vaulted cellar of the old building was incorporated.
It was used as a dwelling-house till about thirteen years ago, when it was
removed, and the present fine mansion erected in its stead.
DALZELL CASTLE,! Lanarkshire.
The residence of Lord Hamilton of Dalzell, situated about two miles
south from Motherwell. The site of the castle is on the steep bank of a
* History of the Parish of Strathhlane.
t We are much indebted to Lord Hamilton of Dalzell for his kind assistance in
the preparation of this description, and for the use of the Plan of the castle.
DALZELL CASTLE
313
THIRD PERIOD
brawling burn, wbicli runs in a deep and rocky gorge along the east side
of the building, winding round the south side a little further off, so as to
leave space for terraced gardens at various levels. The situation of the
castle is very charming and romantic, the varied undulating ground
studded with ancient trees, and the wild rocky glen formed by the burn
contrasting with the majestic sweep of the Clyde, which flows past a little
to the southwards. William Cobbett, who visited Dalzell in 1832, in
describing the castle and surroundings, says that it is the place at which,
if he were compelled to reside in Scotland, he would choose to live.
Fig. 246.— Dalzell Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
The buildings, which are of three periods, form a courtyard, as shown
on Plan (Fig. 246), where the part tinted black indicates the keep, occupy-
ing the centre of the east side. This is the most ancient portion of the
structure, and is doubtless of the Third Period, probably early in the six-
teenth century. The hatched portions extending on either side and along
the south, together with the west enclosing wall, show the portions next
erected during the seventeenth century ; while the buildings on the north
side, shown in outline, were constructed about 1857, from designs by the
late Mr. R. W. Billings, architect, who stayed here for the greater part of
THIRD PERIOD
314
DALZELL CASTLE
three years superintending and working with his own hands at the carrying
out of these and other extensive alterations then effected by Lord Hamil-
ton. The Plan here shown is a reduced copy of one made by Mr. Billings,
portions of the modern buildings, which are very extensive, being omitted.
The original castle, as we have seen, was well defended by nature
along the east and south sides, and there were indications of a moat along
the west side. The two entrance gateways in the western enclosing wall,
one of which is seen in Fig. 247, were originally smaller doorways.
Fig. 247.— Dakell Castle. View from West.
They are represented in a water-colour view of the castle made in the
early part of the century.
The keep is a massive structure, measuring about 39 feet by 32 feet
and 48 feet high to the top of the parapet on the east side next the burn
(Fig. 248). It has a curious and unusual projection at the south-west
angle, like the flat buttress of a Norman keep. The projection is 2 feet
9 inches by about 17 feet in breadth, and contained in the centre the
original entrance doorway. This break in the wall does not go to the top,
and was probably connected with the defence of the entrance. Imme-
diately inside the doorway was a portcullis, the grooves for which still
remain, and there was probably a small chamber above for working it.
DALZELL CASTLE
— 315 —
THIRD PERIOD
The keep consisted of ca vaulted basement, with a lofty vaulted hall
above which was divided into two stories, having carved corbels carrying
Fig. 24S.— Dalzell Castle. View from East.
an intermediate timber floor. Above this was another story, with wall-
chambers and galleries ; while on the level of the battlements there was
the usual chamber in the roof. The stair from the entrance passage
THIRD PERIOD
316
DALZELL CASTLE
ascends by a straight flight to the first floor in the thickness of the
south wall, from which level it continues to the top in a wheel-stair
in the south-east corner of the tower (Fig. 249). The hall floor was
also entered hy an outside door in the north wall at the level of the
first floor, 10 or 12 feet above the ground. This door is exactly opposite
the lower door, but a story higher, and was approached, previous to
Mr. Billings' alterations, by an outside stair. It was without doubt
originally reached in the usual manner by a moveable ladder, the outside
stair having probably been constructed at the time of the extension of
the castle.
The alterations eftected on the keep by Mr. Billings consisted in form-
ing a new principal entrance to the castle, by cutting the triangular-headed
Fig. 249. -Dalzell Castle. Plan of First Floor.
doorway (shown on Fig. 250) through the west wall of the keep, which is
about 7 feet thick. To make room for this doorway, Mr. Billings says * that
a two-inch arrowlet was removed, as was also a similar one in the opposite
wall to admit of the enlarged window shown on Plan. He further men-
tions that "the loose slaty rock and tenacious clay of the dungeon floor was
then excavated to the required depth, so as to obtain sufiicient height of
ceiling, and by the simple and comparatively uncostly means adopted, we
at once obtained our object of access and communication, combined with
a highly characteristic, light, and roomy hall of entrance." " In excavating
the clay from the dungeon we went below the foundations, and under-
* See Building News, 1859, p. 581.
DALZELL CASTLE
317 —
THIRD PERIOD
building became necessary." He describes the foundation as being in a
very unsatisfactory state. " By the unbroken, sloping surface line of
clay, which is fully two feet lower on the south side than on the north,
Fig. 250.— Dalzell Castle. South-East Angle of Courtyard.
we saw clearly that the massive walls had been simply founded on the
natural surface of the ground without the slightest attempt at bedding
the stones on a level, and that, instead of making the ground flat, the
builders had brought the walls to a horizontal line by roughly wedge-
THIRD PERIOD 318 DALZELL CASTLE
shaping the masonry. The whole castle had thus stood for centuries on
a sloping bank of clay, with moisture enough continually passing over its
face to have slipped the whole mass at any moment."
On the hall floor (see Fig. 249)~now the dining-room — Mr. Billings
enlarged the windows, put in a new fireplace, took out the intermediate
floor, and pulled forward the corbels already referred to, which supported
it, in order to make them serve as trusses for ribs inserted by him on the
under-surface of the arch. All the corbels except one were renewed.
The old ones (a sketch of one of which is given. Fig. 250) were built into
the walls of the terraced gardens, where they still remain.
There is a singular sculptured figure, with outstretched arms and
lolling tongue, in low relief in the present south entrance to the hall.
The gables and roof of the keep, with the capehouse of the stair,
were restored by the late Mr. Maitland Wardrop, architect, before Mr.
Billings appeared on the scene.
Although Dalzell has always continued to be inhabited by the
ancestors of Lord Hamilton, it would appear that it had become partly
ruinous, when the seventeenth-century additions to the castle, on the
south side of the courtyard, were undertaken. These present some
peculiarities which will be noticed as we proceed.
The additions referred to comprise a new entrance doorway and a
large wheel-stair erected against the south-west corner of the keep, which
coincide, as will be seen on Plan, with the flat buttress projection.
Behind this was placed a new vaulted kitchen with a large fireplace,
measuring about 11 feet by 6 feet inside, and projecting 5 feet externally,
which forms a very picturesque feature, as seen from the opposite side of
the burn (see Fig. 248). There was evidently no kitchen in the original
tower, and, as often happened, this was one of the first additions found
necessary.
Running along the south side of the courtyard are various lofty
vaulted cellars — the chamber at the extreme end being a second kitchen
of about twice the size of the one just noticed, or 23 feet by 19 feet
6 inches, with a large fireplace in the thickness of the west wall, and
having a stone conduit for the supply of water in the fireplace (not shown
on Mr. Billings' Plan). Another arched conduit exists for supplying
water from the courtyard.
A passage leads from this kitchen to a vaulted round tower at the
south-west corner of the castle (see Fig. 246). This portion of the building
was supposed by Mr. Billings to date from the fourteenth century, and to
be the oldest part of the castle ; but there is nothing to indicate a period
so remote. The walls are not of the massive kind found in structures of
that date ; and in the castles of a subsequent date it is invariably found
that the keep is the nucleus around which the other buildings have
gathered in the course of successive generations.
DALZKLL CASTLE
319 —
THIRD PERIOD
At Dalzell there is no sufficient reason apparent for supposing any
other order of events to have occurred, but rather the reverse ; and this
brings us to the peculiarities just referred to, which seem to show that
this kitchen and south-west tower are rather later than the south-east
part of the addition now under consideration. In the middle cellar of
this wing there will be observed on the Plan projections on either side,
connected with dotted lines running obliquely across the room. These
details indicate the remains of an ancient fireplace, the dotted lines
representing its arch. This fireplace seems to have belonged to a room
(probably a kitchen) which occupied the space into which a staircase now
penetrates, and has been altered when the buildings were continued
westwards. It is, however, possible that a portion of the west gable
of the newer kitchen, with the whole of the west enclosing wall (except
where altered by Mr. Billings), may be as old as about the time of the
erection of the keep.
X I H
Fig. 251. — Dalzell Castle. Shield over 'Wiiuiow of Staircase.
Owing to the numerous alterations which have occurred, the various
levels at the junction with the keep are diflferent, and require a compli-
cated arrangement of steps, which is rather puzzling at first sight.
On the first floor level of the southern wing a massive wheel-stair is
boldly projected into the courtyard upon a series of corbels, and rises the
full height of the wing ; it is crowned with a pointed roof (see Figs. 247
and 250). The whole of the first floor of this wing has been modernised
inside. It consists of the drawing-room and ante-drawing-room, with
very elaborate plaster ceilings, wholly the work of Mr. Billings, and done
by his own hands. Most, indeed, of the new ornamental work and stone
and plaster was executed by him personally.
In the wall of the library there is a small ambry about 5 feet above
the floor, and measuring 2 feet wide. It was originally protected in front
by wire netting, and is supposed by Lord Hamilton to have been a shrine
for holding a sacred figure. The floors above this added wing contain
part of the bedroom accommodation of the castle. Over one of the
windows of the large staircase adjoining the keep, as seen in Fig. 250, and in
THIRD PERIOD
320 —
BOGHALL CASTLE
the enlarged Sketch (Fig. 251), occur the initials, twice repeated, I. H.,
with a shield, and the date 1649. Fig. 252 shows
the tympanum of the window above.
The barony of Dalzell was in the possession of a
family of that name from the end of the thirteenth
century till 1647, when it was acquired from Lord
Dalzell, Earl of Carnwath, by James Hamilton of
Boggs, ancestor of the present proprietor, Lord
Hamilton.
James Hamilton was a nephew of the Dalzells,
Fig. 252.— Dalzell Castle, and it is his initials and arms which have just been
Tyinpauum of Window I'cf erred to
in Staircase.
BOGHALL CASTLE, Biggar, Lanarkshire.
The town of Biggar occupies an important strategic position, being
situated in the strath by which the vales of the Clyde and Tweed are
almost joined together. It was at this point that a branch of the Roman
road diverged from the main north route of " Watling Street," and led
down Tweeddale towards the standing camp on the Lyne. This position
has therefore doubtless been always regarded as a valuable one, and been
occupied by a place of strength.
Biggar possessed from the twelfth century a free rectory ; and in 1545
a collegiate church was founded by Lord Fleming, a large portion of
which is still preserved. The possessors of the barony can be traced back
to the twelfth century. About the end of the thirteenth century it
passed by marriage into the hands of the family of Fleming. They were
supporters of Bruce ; and Malcolm Fleming, of the Galloway branch, was
created Earl of Wigton. The family occupied a prominent position in the
kingdom during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and served their
country well both at home and abroad. Some of them filled important
posts, such as High Chamberlain, &c. ; and in 1458-9 the Fleming of that
date was created a peer, with the title of Lord Fleming of Cumbernauld.
For a time the title of Earl of Wigton, borne by the elder line of
Fleming, was in abeyance ; but it was revived in 1606, in favour of Lord
Fleming of Bygar and Cumbernauld. He was the representative of a
younger branch, in which the title continued till it became extinct, in
1747, at the death of John, sixth earl.*
Boghall Castle, once the seat of the above powerful family, is now
reduced to the relics of three towers, which stand detached in a cultivated
field on the south side of the town of Biggar. The Plan (Fig. 253) shows
* The TJ-pper Ward of Lanarkshire. By J. Vere Irving and Alexander Murray,
Vol. I. p. 295.
nOGIIALL CASTLE
— 321
THIRD PEHIOD
the relative position of these towers, and the dotted lines show the
probable positions of the enclosing walls of the courtyard, with the
gateway and mansion-house, so far as these can be gathered from the
views by Grose, Clark of Eldon, and Riddel of Glenriddel, made about a
century ago.
The whole structure was formerly surrounded by marshes and a deep
fosse. The gatehouse was situated at a salient angle of the nortli wall,
ENTRANCE
f-
^^
TOWER AT A
ENLARGED
Fig. 253.— Boghall Castle. Plan.
and, from the old views above referred to, was evidently a substantial
structure, having a central archway and guardrooms on each side, the
summit being crowned with a corbelled and embrasured parapet, with
turrets at the angles. The north-east and north-west angles of the
enceinte were protected by substantial round towers. Fig. 254 shows the
form of the north-east tower, which is the best preserved. From the style
of the masonry and form of the shot-holes in them, and of the corbelling
under the parapet, these towers have evidently been erections of the
THIRD PERIOD
322 —
BOGHALL CASTLE
Third Period. They are circular externally, with a diameter of about
17 feet, but have contained square apartments internally of about 8 feet
in width. These towers were vaulted on the ground floor and also at the
top, so as to carry a stone roof. This is a style of tower which was not
uncommon in the above period. The whole enclosure extends to 192 feet
from east to west by 205 feet from north to south. There was a circular
tower at the south-east angle, but there does not appear to have been any
Pig. 254.— Boghall Castle. North-East Tower.
tower at the south-west angle. The curtain walls were provided with
shot-holes, widely splayed, like those of the towers.
The mansion-house stood at the south-east angle of the courtyard. It
consisted of a plain oblong structure of the T form. The tower, still
existing, contained the entrance door and staircase in the centre of the
mansion-house. Its existing condition is seen in Fig. 255. A moulding
at the eaves contains the date 1670, which is probably original. Beneath
this are the windows which lighted the staircase, and between them a
BOGHALL CASTLE
— 323
THIRD PERIOD
panel containing the arms and supporters of the Earls of Wigton. The
roof, although ruinous, is only about a hundred years old. The original
roof (as shown in the drawings above referred to, as well as in Fig. 2.56,
which is taken from a drawing in the library of the Royal Scottish
Academy) was a lofty conical one. The mansion-house has, from its
style, been evidently a structure of the Fourth Period, probably as late as
the above date of 1670.
^^~^miB
Fif!. 255.— Bodiall Castle. St.aivpase Tower.
The enceinte, with its towers and gatehouse, have undoubtedly pre-
sented a large and important example of the Courtyard Plan of the Third
Period. It is unfortunate that so few of its features have been preserved.
The fate common to so many of our ancient edifices has overtaken it,
the stones having been nearly all carted away within the present century
to form materials for the building of dykes and farm offices.
THIRD PEllIOD
324 —
BOGHALL CASTLE
INNERWICK CASTLE
— 325
THIRD PERIOD
INNERWICK CASTLE, Haddingtonshire.
This once extensive building, now reduced to a state of ruin, occupied
the whole platform of a detached point of red sandstone rock, which pro-
jects into the deep and rocky ravine of the Thornton Burn, about a mile
and a half from its junction with the sea, and five miles south-east from
Dunbar. This mass of sandstone is perpendicular for a considerable
irr%-i"'
Fig. 257.— Innenvick Castle. View from South-East.
height on the north, east, and south sides, and below the sheer faces of
the rock the steep and broken bank descends rapidly to the burn. The
effect of the castle, as seen on its lofty peak through the thickly -wooded
glen (Fig. 257), is thus most commanding and picturesque. On the west,
the side of the site next the mainland, the castle is isolated by a ditch
(Fig. 258), about 15 feet deep and 15 feet wide, cut in the rock, and
scarped with perpendicular faces on either side. The structure is now so
much decayed that it is scarcely possible to make out the arrangement of
THIRD PERIOD
— 326
INNERWICK CASTLE
even its main features. Such a commanding and defensible site must,
however, have been occupied as a stronghold from a very early date.
When the present castle was erected we have no information, but the
thick walls and vaults of the central portion, and the simple round and
pointed arches, with plain splays of the doorways, seem to indicate parts
of an ancient keep. The buildings to the eastward, with thinner walls,
probably now cover a space originally reserved as an open court at the
^^E^^"'!^^.
Fig. 25S. -luuenvick Castle. Grouiul Plan.
point of the promontory. These erections have apparently contained a
kitchen on the ground floor and a hall on the first flooi'. The large kitchen
fireplace has, however, been inserted into more ancient pointed vaults in
the two rooms adjoining. The hall has been a long room, with a fireplace
on the north side. Three of the corbels which carried its roof (or an
upper floor) yet remain, together with a considerable part of the round
vault on which its floor rested.
To the west of the above are the cellars of the more ancient portion of
INNIiRWICK OASTLK
— 327 —
THIRD PERIOD
the castle, the doors ;ind vaults connected with which are shown in Fig.
•259. A passage, with three doors at intervals in it, has apparently run
along the north side of this building, and may perhaps have formed the
entrance to the interior of the castle. It is difficult now to determine
how access was provided from the exterior. There was no doubt a draw-
bridge across the ditch, and the remains of a wall in the centre seem to
point out its position, but there are no signs of a door in the wall of the
Fr;. 2JH.— limtirwick (Jastk'. Grouii of Vaults.
castle opposite this point, llie wall here has, however, been rebuilt, and
it is probable that the original gateway, with drawbridge, was in this
position. From this point a doorway leads into a narrow passage which
seems to have run all along the western side of the castle, probably for
the purpose of defending it and watching the ditch.
This original gateway was probably built up and the castle restored
after Somerset's invasion of 1548, when this and the other castles of the
THIRD PERIOD
328 —
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE
district were all destroyed. The dotted lines indicate a conjectural new
entrance and staircase of the kind usual at that period.
Above the point marked A a remarkable feature occurs, viz., a hollow
square tube, 6|- inches high and 8 inches wide, composed of freestone,
which slopes down diagonally in the thickness of the wall. This tube or
conduit, which is now about a yard long, has formerly been of greater
length, as part of it has been used as rubble work in rebuilding the
adjoining thick wall. This conduit was probably intended for carrying
off water either from the roof or from a sink. At Balvaird Castle a
similar tube conducts the roof-water to the garde-robes, and possibly
this one may have served a similar purpose.
There are no ornamental details preserved in any part of the structure,
with the exception of a small window (Fig. 260) on the upper floor over-
looking the ditch, the character of which
quite corresponds with a restoration, as
above supposed, after Somerset's time.
Of the history of Innerwick but little
seems to be known, except that it belonged
successively to families of the name of
Stewart and Hamilton. At the time of
Somerset's expedition, another castle called
Thornton stood on the crag on the opposite
side of the glen, where its foundations can
still be traced. Thornton belonged to Lord Home, and was kept by one
Tom Trotter, who, being summoned by Somerset's herald, left the tower,
locking up " xvi poore soules " in it to defend it, while he promised to
return with succour. Innerwick was defended by the Master of Hamilton
and eight more gentlemen. They barricaded the doors and windows, and
attempted a defence from the battlements ; but the besiegers managed to
force an entrance, and "the hakbutters gat in and fyred them underneth ;
whereby beying greatly trobled with smoke and smoother and brought in
desperation of defence, they called pitefully over thir walles to my Lord's
Grace for mercy." This the duke "of his noble generositie " granted, but
"ere the messenger came the hakbutters had gootten up to them, and
killed viii of them aloft ; one lept over ye walles, and runing more than a
furlong after was slaine without in a water."*
Fig. '^00.— Innerwick Castle. Window.
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE, Fipeshire.
The ruins of this once extensive castle crown a rocky headland 50 fetit
high, lying on the north-east side of the town of St. Andrews, with the
waves of the wild North Sea washing two sides of its base.
* Orose, Vol. i. p. 91.
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE
329 —
THIRD PERIOD
Pig. 261. --St. Andrews (Jastle. Tlan.
THIRD PERIOD
330
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE
The rocks are of iine soft sandstone mixed with seams of shale and
limestone, the whole being of a rather friable nature, so that during the
six centuries which have elapsed since the first building was erected their
outline to the nortli and east has undergone great changes.
Even in the century since Grose's time considerable alteration is
apparent, the stretch of gi-ass on the e^ist shown in his sketch being now
washed away except at the north corner.
Mai'tin, who wrote in 1683, says that "in his time there were people
still living who remembered seeing bowls played on the level ground to
the east and north;" and Grose mentions "that the proprietor of a
Pig. 262.-81. Audruvvs Castle. View of South Front.
neighbouring estate had the privilege of driving his cattle and goods on
the east side of the castle, which for some centuries past no man could
have done."
This view, with regard to the disappearance of ground round the castle
from being swallowed up by the sea, is, however, controverted by the Rev.
C. J. Lyon in his History of St. Andrews*
The present buildings (Fig. 261), which, as we shall see, were erected
at different dates, are surrounded on the south by a moat about 28 feet
wide, which would in all probability extend along the west side to the sea.
* Vol. I. p. 11.
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE
— 331
THIRD PERIOD
The surrounding walls enclosed a courtyard about 150 feet square, with a
tower at each corner and buildings all I'ound. The south front (Fig. 262),
which is the best preserved portion of the castle, has a large keep-like
tower pi'ojecting near the centre with chequered corbelling under the
parapet. Probably the chapel, of which there are frequent notices, formed
the upper part of the building which extends eastwards from this tower.
Fig. 263.— St. Andrews Castle. Eutrance Gateway.
In the view of the castle by Slezer, the windows of this building have an
ecclesiastical aspect, as if they belonged to such a structure.
The main entrance to the castle seems formerly to have been through
the above central tower. The jambs of an archway still i-emain (although
built up) in the lower portion, at the level of the ground on the opposite
side of the ditch ; and the long wide space with stone seats on each side,
which extends towards the courtyard at the back of the tower, looks like
an ancient entrance passage. This part of the building probably belongs
to the fifteenth century.
THIRD PERIOD
332
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE
The western portion of the south front adjoining the tower contains
the more modern entrance gateway, which was reached by a drawbridge
across the moat, the pier on which the drawbridge rested when lowered
being still visible in the centre of the moat.
This gateway, which is rather a handsome structure (big. 263), has a
moulded segmental archway, and is surmounted by a projecting centre-
piece, enclosing a panel for a coat of arms, above which a high frieze
contains four circular panels, with a large cinquefoil in each. At the top
of the wall to the east of the gateway are projecting ornamental sills,
which doubtless sustained finely carved dormers. These features are all
executed in the early Renaissance style, and are probably the work of
Archbishop Hamilton (1546-71), and will be afterwards referred to.
On either side of the entrance passage are vaulted guardrooms. From
that on the right-hand side there is a postern opening above the moat, and
Fig. 2(34.— St. Andrews Ciustle. Tlau of First Floor.
situated at one side of the main entrance. This was doubtless used for
access from the bridge when the main gateway was closed. The
upper floor (Fig. 264) over this part of the edifice contained a suite of
small apartments.
The great hall lay along the east side of the castle, as is evident from
the account given further on of the siege operations. Time and the sea
have on this side made considerable inroads. In 1801 a large part of the
rock at this point fell into the sea, and carried with it a considerable
portion of the seaward walls.
The kitchen tower is at the north-east corner, where there are two
vaulted cellars entering from a passage lighted by a window in the end.
The stair to the upper floor at this corner enters from the outside of the
courtyard. The wall to the east is of great thickness (12 feet), showing
that the castle must have been assailable at this point ; and indeed Grose,
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE 333 THIRD PERIOD
in his sketch of 1790, shows indications of a path here leading up from
the sea.
The sea tower is on the north-west, and contains a vaulted chamber on
the level of the courtyard, and another on a lower level, in which is the
entrance to the famous " bottle dungeon," cut out
of the rock, and in shape somewhat resembling a
common bottle, being narrow at the neck and
widening out below (see Fig. 265). A small seam
of coal is seen in the rock here. On the first floor
(see Fig. 261) are the remains of two rooms, one
with an oriel looking out to the North Sea.
The well is in the courtyard opposite the
entrance gateway, and is 23 feet deep to the Fig. -iOo.-st. Andrews Castie.
» . •^' '^ Planof "Bottle Dungeon."
water, which is also of considerable depth. It
is surrounded by a parapet and railing, and a number of fine ferns are
seen growing on its sides.
The tower at the south-west angle has been round, but is now almost
entirely demolished.
The Bishops of St. Andrews possessed a residence at Inchmurtach, a
few miles south-east of the town, from an early period, but no trace of it
now remains. This residence was built by William Lamberton, being one
of many houses which he erected in various parts of the country for
himself and successors ; but it was doubtless a place of less importance
than the Castle of St. Andrews, which, as the Rev. Mr. Lyon says,
" answered the three-fold purpose of an Episcopal palace, a fortress, and
a state prison."
The castle was originally constructed by Bishop Rodger in 1 200 — forty
years after the founding of the cathedral. Little of an eventful nature
took place in connection with it for nearly a century, till the time of
Bishop "William Lamberton (1298 and 1328), when it was frequently
captured and recaptured in the wars of succession.
Shortly after Bannockburn, Lamberton set himself to look after the
interests of his diocese, then sorely ruined with civil war. He repaired
the Castle of St. Andrews and constructed the new chapter-house of the
cathedral, besides erecting numerous other buildings for the benefit of his
See. During the minority of David ii. the troops of Edward in. held
most of the important fortresses in the South of Scotland, and amongst
them that of St. Andrews. But on Sir Andi'ew Murray becoming regent,
he captured it in 1336 after a three weeks' siege, and completely de-
molished the castle, so as to prevent it from falling into the hands of the
English. For upwards of fifty years it seems to have remained in ruins,
till the time of Bishop Walter Trail (1385-1401), "who died," says
Fordun, " in the Castle of St. Andrews, which he had reconstructed from
its foundation."
THIRD PERIOD 334 ST. ANDREWS CASTLE
The second castle, like the first, seems for a considerable time after its
erection to have had an uneventful history. But on the death of Arch-
bishop Alexander Stewart in 1513, three competitors urged their respective
claims for the See. One of them was Gavin Douglas the poet ; the others
being John Hepburn, Prior of St. Andrews, and Andrew Forman, Bishop
of Moray ; and as each had powerful friends to support his cause, the
castle became a scene of strife among the contending parties.
" During this contest the peaceable translator of the ^Eneid retired
from the field in disgust ; and, to add to his misfortvme, he was soon
after imprisoned by the Regent, duke of Albany, for twelve months, in
the very same castle which he had good grounds to expect would have
been his archiepiscopal palace." * Bishop Forman was the successful
candidate.
During the time of his su^ccessor. Archbishop James Beaton (1523-
1539), we get a glimpse of regal splendour and hospitality at the castle.
Mr. Lyon quotes letters from the English ambassador (Magnus, Arch-
deacon of Reading), in which he narrates, " I understand there hath not
been such a house kept in Scotland many days before, as of late the said
archbishop hath kept, and yet keepeth ; insomuch as at the being with
him of these lords, (Angus, Lennox, Argyle, &c.), both horses and men,
he gave livery nightly to twenty-one score horses." f
Two years after this, Angus and the archbishop were at war about the
custody of the youthful monai'ch, James v. ; and the former completely
defeating the archbishop in a bloody battle at Kirkliston, seized on and
plundered the Castle of St. Andrews. But in the course of a few months
the archbishop was again in possession of his castle, and matters were
smoothed over.
James Beaton was succeeded by his nephew, the celebrated Cardinal
Beaton (1539-1546), whose patriotic resistance to the crafty designs of
Henry vill. led to his murder, and ultimately to the almost total destruc-
tion of the castle. The stoiy of his assassination is well known. The
cardinal was actively engaged strengthening the fortifications of the
castle, says Mr. Lyon, " against the threatened attack from his implacable
enemy, Henry viii., and' the conspirators, some eight or ten men loiter-
ing about in the early morning, took advantage of the entrance of the
masons employed at the fortifications to gain admittance, to stab the
porter and throw his body into the fosse, send the workmen quietly off
the premises, and so take complete possession of the castle before its
inmates were astir, and then dismiss the servants and inmates one by one.
'In this manner,' says Tytler, 'a hundred workmen and fifty household
servants were disposed of by a handful of men, who, closing the gates and
dropping the portcullis, were complete mastei's of the castle.' " The
sequel was the death of the cardinal. After he was dispatched, the
* Lyon's History of St. Andrews, Vol. i. p. 256. t Ibid. p. 268.
ST. ANDREWS CASTLE — 335 — THIRD PERIOD
murderers kept possession of the castle, their numbers being somewhat
augmented ; and considerable assistance arriving from Henry, they were
enabled to withstand a siege of about one year's duration. An interest-
ing account of this, written by the conspirators themselves and addressed
to Henry's agents, is printed in Vol. li., p. 366, of Mr. Lyon's History,
from which we make the following extracts : —
In the month of December, being about six months after the cardinal's
murder, and immediately following an attempt at a compromise, "the
governor (Arran) sent to the west trenches, four cannons, a battering
culverin, two smaller culverins, and some double falcons, in order to
batter the sea-tower that is at the north-west and the west wall." This was
on a Friday, and " on Wednesday, they began, and shot from seven in the
morning continually, till four in the evening. . . . That day, they shot down
all the battlements, and tophouse of the sea-tower, and the whole roof of
the chambers next the sea ; and all this day, they shot upon the east side
of the castle with f edderit ballatlis * at the hall and chapel, and dislodged
us from that part by the downputting of the roof and slates." They go
on to detail the privations they suiiered, and negotiations which took
place between them and Governor Arran. " Meanwhile," says Mr.
Lyon,f " the English and French Governments were both active in their
preparations : the former to succour the garrison in the castle, the latter
to attack them. But the French were ready first. In the summer of
1547 they sent twenty-one galleys, under the command of Leon Stronzius,
Prior of Capua, both a priest and a warrior, to assist the Governor of
Scotland in reducing the castle. "
Lindsay of Pitscottie narrates J that "when the news came that these
vessels were seen off St. Abb's Head, steering for St. Andrews, the
governor well content hereof, hasted him to St. Andrews, with the
gentlemen of Fife, Angus, and Strathearn, and welcomed the French
captain. . . . They clapt about the house so hastily and unexpectedly,
that many were closed out, and divers were closed in, against their will.
Then they mounted their ordnance hotJi upon the college steeple, and also
upon the walls of the ahhey ki7'k, wherewith they condemned the castle
close ; so that no man durst walk therein, or go up to the wall head.
The captain told the governor, that they had been unexpert warriors who
had not mounted their ordnance on the steeple heads in that manner, and
that he wondered at the keepers of the castle ; that they had not first
broken down the heads of the steeples. He caused also the great battery
to be laid to the castle, the two Scottish cannons and six French ; and to
preveen slaughter, he devised that the cannons should pass down the streets
by engines, without any man with them ; which thing when the Italian
* "Bolts from the balista or cross-bow, 'feathered,' to guide them to their
mark."
t Vol. I. p. .314. + See Lyon,
THIRD PERIOD 336 ST. ANDREWS CASTLE
engineer (which had been sent from England for the support of those
within the castle) perceived, he said that they had now to do with men of
war, and therefore had need to take heed to themselves. They answered
that they should defend their castle against Scotland, France, and Ireland,
all three. But the battery, within a few hours made such breaches in the
wall that, despairing of their strength, after consultation, they yielded the
castle and themselves to the King of France. The French captain entered
and spoiled the castle very rigorously ; wherein they found great store of
vivers, clothes, armour, silver, and plate, which, with the captives, they
carried away in their galleys. The governor, by the advice of the council,
demolished the castle, least it should be a receptacle of rebels."
To the same effect the Diiirnal of Occurrents states that "they tuke
the auld and young Lairds of Grange, Normound Leslie, the Laird of
Pitmillie, Mr. Henry Balnevis, and John Knox, with many utheris, to
the nomber of sex score persones, and caryit thame all away to France ;
and tuke the spoilzie of the said castell, quhilk was worth 100,000 pundis,
and tuke down the hous."
As already mentioned, the cardinal's successor. Archbishop John
Hamilton (1546-71), rebuilt the castle, "whose arms and initials," says
Mr. Lyon, " may be traced under one of the southern windows, and whose
device, the five-rayed star, is above the gateway." The south-west portion,
as above pointed out, may clearly be assigned to him, but it appears to
have been carried up from the ruins of older walls. The bases of four
pillars, which have probably formed an arcade, still survive in the interior,
and are seemingly of seventeenth-century work. This arcade would prob-
ably resemble the one which existed in front of the Parliament Hall in
Stirling Castle. It is highly probable that most of the vaulted buildings
along the north side are of older date than the siege, but they are all too
fragmentary to enable one to speak with certainty.
In 1587, under the Presbyterian ascendancy, the Act of Annexation
was passed which transferred the castle of St. Andrews, along with other
church property, to the Crown. In 1606 the king, for its proper preserva-
tion, granted it to the Earl of Dunbar, "giving," says Lyon, "the then
titular archbishop, Gladstone, certain other properties instead of it."
In 1612, on the establishment of Episcopacy, the castle was restored
to the archbishop, all parties being compensated.
After this period the importance of the castle of St. Andrews gradually
waned — a few visits of James vi., and the imprisonment of various political
and ecclesiastical offenders, down to the middle of the seventeenth century,
being the only events recorded in its annals, except that the Town Council
in 1654 ordered part of its venerable materials to be used in repairing the
harbour walls.
BALFOUR CASTLE
337 —
THIRD PERIOD
BALFOUR CASTLE,* Forfarshire.
A fragment of a large castle in the parish of Kingoldrura, three or
four miles west from Kirriemuir. It lies in the open plain, and nothing
of the ancient structure remains except one large circular tower (Fig. 266),
which appears to have been the south-west tower of the walls of enceinte.
The foundation of the south wall extended, till a few years ago, ahout
Fio. 266.— Balfour Castle. Tower and Plans.
30 feet eastwards, and remains of the north-east tower existed till lately,
but unfortunately no plan of them ever seems to have been made, so that the
size of the castle cannot be ascertained ; nor can anything further be said
of its disposition and plan. The existing tower is vaulted on the ground
floor, which was evidently reached from the courtyard down a few steps.
The tower contains six stories, and in its existing form it is from 50 to 60
* The Plans of this stnictnrc arc from drawings by Mr. George Gordon Milne.
Y
THIRD PERIOD
338
BUCHOLIE CASTLE
feet high, and has a considerable taper. The present roof is old, but un-
doubtedly is not the original one. The house adjoining is quite modern, and
at the distance of a few yards there is a large farm-steading, the presence
of which probably accounts for the almost total disappearance of the castle,
the materials having doubtless formed the quarry for the modern buildings.
Balfour was the castle of the Ogilvies, a branch of the Airlie family,
and is probably as old as the beginning of the sixteenth century.
BUCHOLIE CASTLE,* Caithness-shire.
This, like so many of the Caithness castles, is built on a peninsular
rock, jutting into and nearly surrounded by the sea (Fig. 267). It is
Fig. 267.— Bucholie Castle. Plans.
situated a short way south of Freswick Bay, and within a few miles of
John o' Croat's House. The detached mass of rock on which the castle is
* The Plan of this structure is from a drawing kindly supplied by the Rev. A.
Miller.
BUCHOLIK CASTLE
— 339
THIRD PERIOD
built, with perpendicular sides about 100 feet high, is connected with the
land only by a narrow neck at the north-west angle, the level of which at
the entrance gate is 9 feet below the level of the threshold. The door
could therefore only be reached by a moveable wooden bridge from a
higher strip of ground a little distance off. The entrance to the castle
from this gateway was partly under the keep, beyond which it passed
through a very long and narrow passage between two high walls, from
which it was completely commanded. At the inner end of this passage
Fig. 268.— Bucholie Castle, from South-Wcst.
there occurs an archway with a second gate, so that assailants penetrating
through the first or outer gate would be stopped by the inner one, and
being caught in the narrow passage would be easily disposed of from the
battlements on each side, or from apertures in the first floor of the keep.
The keep stood, as usual, close to the isthmus which joined the castle to
the mainland, but little more than part of the west wall now exists (Fig.
268). The walls are built with an external slope or batter — an un-
common arrangement in Caithness castles — and above the second story
are seen the remains of a projecting battlement.
THIRD PERIOD
340 SPECIAL PLANS
The passage above referred to gives access to the courtyard, which is
of the usual long narrow shape of the Caithness castles, and had buildings
on each side of it ; but they are now so ruinous that it is impossible to
say how they were used. Traces may be observed of an outside stair to
an upper floor.
This castle is said to have been held by Sweyn about 1170. Certainly
the position is one which would be naturally taken possession of from an
early period as a site for a fortress. About 1300 it was possessed by the
family of Mowat.
FJNDLATER CASTLE, Banffshire.
Tliis once extensive fortress stood on a lofty detached rock, entirely
surrounded by the sea, except where a narrow isthmus joins it to the
mainland. It is situated on the north coast of Banffshire, about three
miles east of Cullen.
On the mainland the approach to the castle is defended by an intrenched
area, having a ditch and rampart, 240 feet by 140 feet. The isthmus
forming the access is cut across by two ditches, which no doubt were pro-
vided with drawbridges. Beyond this the ruins of the castle indicate
several towers which command the approach. The area of the rock is
about 180 feet by 80 feet, and has been surrounded by buildings, of
which only the vaulted basement on the west side now remains. This
part of the structure has been built up from a lower part of the rock to
the level of the courtyard, and beneath this vault there is a still deeper
chamber, partly hewn out of the rock. The castle seems to have been on
the same model as Girnigoe and the other coast fortresses of Caithness.
It belonged from the time of David ii. to the St. Clairs, afterwards to the
Ogilvies, Eai'ls of Findlater, and is now the property of the Earl of
Seaiield.
SPECIAL PLANS.
The Plans of the following buildings are designed in such a manner
that they cannot be classified according to any of the above systems. It
is not a little surprising to find how closely the traditional plans are
adhered to, almost eveiy castle of this period throughout Scotland being
designed on one or other of the three plans above described, viz. : first,
the Simple Keep ; second, the L Plan ; and third, the Courtyard Plan. The
following seven structures, however, cannot now be placed in any of these
DUNUKE CASTLE _ 341 — THIRD PERIOD
divisions, chiefly owing to alterations which have been made on the
fabric. But it is very likely that had they not been interfered with, they
would nearly all have taken their place in one or other of the ordinary
categories.
DUNURE CASTLE, Ayrshire.
This ancient fortress of the Kennedies, Earls of Cassillis, stands on a
bold rocky promontory of the Carrick coast, jutting out into the sea and
protecting a small harbour, about seven miles south from the town of Ayr.
The earliest charter for the lands is dated 1256.
In an account of the family of Kennedy, written early in the seven-
teenth century, it is told that " this house remanit ane lang tyme bot in ane
sober estaitt," and how the proprietors givadually extended their possessions
by marriage and by the strong hand. During the fifteenth century some
of the representatives of the family were distinguished, and successively
obtained the titles of Lord Kennedy and Earl of Cassillis.
The description of the means by which, in Queen Mary's disturbed
reign, Gilbert, Earl of Cassillis, increased his domain is interesting, as a
specimen of the mode in which the church lands were too often dealt
with by the nobles and lairds about the time of the Reformation.
The earl's proceedings are thus described : " Gilbertt was ane particuler
manne, and ane weny greidy manne, and cairitt nocht how he gatt land,
sa that he culd cum be the samin." This earl schemed with one of the
monks of Glenluce Abbey to counterfeit the necessary signatures to a deed
conveying to him the lands of the abbey. Fearing that the monk would
reveal the forgery, he employed a " cairill " to " stik " him ; and then in
order to silence the latter, the earl pei'suaded his uncle, the laird of
Bargany, to accuse the " cairill " of theft and hang him. " And sa the
landis of Glenluse wes conqueist." The action of the same Earl Gilbert,
for the purpose of acquiring the lands of the Abbey of Crosraguel, Avas
even more horrible. " At the alteratioune of the religioun, my Lord deltt
with the abbott," but the feu not having been confirmed by the Crown,
was disputed by Allan Stewart, the succeeding abbot or commendator.
The earl then carried him off to his castle of Dunure, and " quhane he
fand him obstmatt, at last tuik him and band him to ane furme, and sett
his bair legis to ane gritt fyr, and extreymly brunt him that he was ewer
thairefter onabill of his leggis." The laird of Bargany hearing of this
atrocity, sent to rescue the abbot. His men concealed themselves at night
in a chapel close to the gate " at the drawbrig-end," and when the gate
was opened in the morning they rushed in and took possession. The earl
was absent, but soon returned, and endeavoured to retake the castle.
His followers entered the chapel above mentioned, and attempted to
THIRD PERIOD
— 342 —
DUNURK CASTLE
M-^ //4if
wSmiw
«i^
H Ilk, mi\,m.'i I. It __Jiii^ ' /^ ■
DUNURE CASTLE
— 343 —
TIIIKU PERIOD
mine the wall of the " dungeone " which adjoined it. " Bot the Lairdis
menne, that was within, keist gritt staneis doune of the heiche battelling
of the dungeoune ; and sa brak the ruiff of the chapel), in sik maner, that
thay war forssitt to leitF the samin." Bai'gany soon appeared on the
scene with a strong force, and removed the abbot to Ayr, and after a time,
and with some negotiation, " all agreyitt. Me Lord gaiff the Abott sum
mony to leiff wpone, quhilk contentit him all his dayis. And this way wes
my lordis conqueise of Corsragall ; quhilk wes bot ane bad forme." The
castle and estate of Dunure, together with those of Dalquharran, were
purchased by Sir Thomas Kennedy of Kirkhill in the latter part of the
seventeenth century, and still remain in the possession of his descendants.
The Yiew (Fig. 269) shows that the castle consisted of two distinct
parts, viz., a keep of irregular shape on the top of a precipitous rock, and
Fic;. 270. — Duuuri: Castle. Tlan.
other erections at a considerably lower level. The enceinte of the former
follows the outline of the rock, with a wall about 5 feet thick. The
vaults on the basement (Fig. 270) are still fairly preserved, but the whole
of the superstructure, except the fragment of the north-west wall shown
in the Sketch, is entirely demolished. This keep no doubt represents the
original castle, although much altered in course of time. Its outline and
style recall the form of the primitive fortresses of the West Highlands
during the Fii-st Period.
The central portion seems to be an extension of the structure, probably
erected in the fifteenth century (to judge from the great corbels of the
parapet), and has apparently been intended to form a defence to the access
into the keep. It no doubt contained the gateway and some kind of stair-
case to the buildings on the higher level ; but it is now so completely
THIRD PERIOD 344 DALQUIIARRAN CASTLE
filled up with stones and rubbish that the interior cannot be seen. The
additional building to the south-east is of a much later date. It contains
two kitchens on the ground floor, each with its great fireplace and stone
drain, and there were apartments on the upper floors. One of these
kitchens may have been for the castle and the other for the retainers, as
was not an infrequent arrangement. To the north-east stands a detached
piece of wall, where there seems to have been a gateway. Possibly the
drawbridge above referred to may have been in this vicinity, and the
chapel may have stood in Earl Gilbert's time against the thick wall of the
central part of the castle, where the first or north kitchen was afterwards
added. It would thus be liable to have its roof broken in by stones
hurled from the parapet above, and it would also be convenient for the
proposed mining operations of the earl's force against this donjon.
But everything is now so ruined and changed that it is impossible
to tell.
Where the torture chamber of the poor commendator was cannot now
be known — most probably in one of the vaulted dungeons of the keep,
where a brazier in the centre of the floor would probably be used, as there
is no appearance of a fireplace in any of the vaults.
DALQUHARRAN CASTLE, Ayrshire.
This remarkable edifice is situated at a bend of the Girvan Water,
near Dailly, about six miles from the mouth of the river at Girvan. Origin-
ally a rectangular keep, it was greatly enlarged and converted into an
extensive mansion towards the close of the seventeenth century.
The lands of " Dalchorane " are confirmed to the abbey of Crosraguel
by Edward Bruce, Earl of Carrick, in 1324, and the first laird of whom
mention occurs is Gilbert Kennedy, in 1474.* The property is said to
have been subsequently acquired by the Kennedies of Girvan Mains.
Towards the end of the seventeenth century Sir Thomas Kennedy of
Kirkhill, Lord Provost of Edinburgh, purchased the estates of Girvan
Mains and Dalquharran, and he also acquired the castle and domain of
Dunure. In William Abercrummie's Description of Carrick, written at
the end of the seventeenth century, the edifice is referred to as "the
stately castle of Dolquharran, the building whereof is much improven by
the additions lately made thereto, which make it by far the best house
of all that country ; surrounded with vast enclosures of wood, that the
country is not able to consume it by their building and other instru-
ments."
The original castle (Fig. 271) was the block at the south side. It
* Charter of the abbey of Crosragueh
DALQUHARRAN CASTLE
— 345
THIRD PKRIOD
stands on ;i uiound some 20 to 30 feet above the river, which flows lound
the east and south, while there was in all probability a moat, fed by the
river on the north and west sides. The building formed a keep about GO
feet long by 30 feet wide, with walls 5 feet in thickness. The entrance
door was probably on the first floor, entering directly to the hall, possibly
at the north-west angle. This floor may have contained two apartments,
Fig. '-'71. — Dal(iuhaiT;ui Castle. Plan of First Floor.
the hall at the west end and a private room at the east end, as there are
two fireplaces. The private room would thus be in communication with
the apartment in the round tower at the south-east angle, and a narrow
stair from the recess of the south window leads from it to the cellars in
the basement, which are all vaulted. Several lockers occur in the wall, a
usual provision in private rooms ; one of these (.shown in Fig. 272) is of an
ornate description, and contains the arms of the Kennedies. With refer-
THIRD PERIOD
346
DALQUHARRAN CASTLE
FxG. '27'2.— Dalquharran Castle.
Ambry, with Arms of the Kennedies.
ence to this shield, Paterson says * : " The Kennedy arms may still be
seen as on the seal of the Caldwell charter of 1537, with two lymphads
and a star in chief." This, taken in connection with documents signed
in 1536 by John Kennedy of Culzean, at "my place" of Dalquharran,
leads him to the conclusion that at that
date the property belonged to the Cul-
zean family, although it was subse-
quently acquired by the Kennedies of
Girvan Mains, a branch of the Cassillis
stock.
The exterior of this structure (Fig.
273) is very remarkable. The round
tower at one angle is a somewhat un-
usual arrangement, but may also be
observed at Rait and Morton Castles, f
The buttressing of the south-west angle
is also unusual; it may have been found
necessary owing to some weakness in
the foundation at that point. The
keep is still crowned with what appears
to be the original parapet and corbel
table, At the south-west angle this is
continued round an open bartizan, and it is most probable that the north-
east and north-west angles had similar terminations. The corbelling is of
a description very unusual in Scotland, being enriched with a small ogee
arch over the spaces between the corbels, which produces a much more
ornate effect than the straight lintel generally adopted, and recalls an
English rather than a Scottish practice. From its plan and careful finish
this castle may be classed with the exceptional examples of the Third
Period above referred to.
About 1679 large additions were made to the ancient keep, converting
it into the " stately castle " so highly commended by Abercrummie. These
additions (Fig. 274) are in the advanced Renaissance of that date, having
projecting rustic corners, facings round the windows, and a classic door-
piece. The latter contains the motto, "Ut Scriptura sonat finis non
pugna coronat." The new buildings consist of a wing about 55 feet long
and 23 feet wide, with a round tower at the north-east angle and a square
tower in the re-entering angle, containing a wheel-stair with steps about
5 feet in length, leading both to the old keep and the new work. Another
square tower, containing a circular staircase, is placed at the north-west
angle. The view from north-west (see Fig. 274) shows distinctly the
additions made on the north side of the keep, the old parapet and
* History of Ayr and Wigton, Vol. ii. p 207.
t Vol. I. pp. 545, 558.
DALQUIIARRAN CAHTLl!:
— 347 —
TIIIUD PERIOD
corbels being covered l^y them, and only liift visible where no new
buildings have been placed. The new north wing seems to have con-
tained kitchen offices on the basement, and a large drawing-room on
the first floor and bedrooms above. The round tower at the north-east
angle has been placed there with the view of balancing that at the
south-east angle.
The space in front of the entrance, and completing the square, is
^•^ ^^~d^y
Fig. 273. — DiilquhaiTan Castle. View from South-West.
enclosed with a balusti'ade, and had a large gateway with ornamental
pillars on the north side, part of which still exists ; and there are indi-
cations that the grounds were laid out with gardens, bowling-greens, and
other ornamental devices of the period. This ancient structure is still
surrounded with fine woods, as in Abercrummie's day. The modern
mansion of Dalquharran (built in 1790), the residence of F. T. Komilly
Kennedy, Esq. of Dunure, stands on the higher ground above the old
castle.
THIRD PERIOD
348
DALQUHARRAN CASTLE
'• ■' ''i • * j
■ ill li
Mm
THE OLD PLACE OF MOCHRUM
349 —
TIIIKI) PEUIOD
THE OLD PLACE OF MOCHRUM, Wigtonsiiire.
A remarkable double tower (sometimes called Drumwalt), situated
about five miles south from the village and railway station of Kirkcowan.
It stands on a bleak moor near the north end of the small loch of Moch-
rum. The structure is a singular one, consisting of two distinct towers,
separated from each other by a space of about 15 feet, and only connected
by a high wall, as shown by hatched lines on the Plan (Fig. 275). In
'^^>^<ym^m^
Fia. 275.— The Old Place of Moehrum. Plan.
this dual arrangement Moehrum resembles Ruthven Castle, Perthshire,
according to its original design, in which two distinct keeps were sepa-
rated by a space of about 9 feet, afterwards filled in with a stair serving
to connect both.*
Moehrum was in a state of great ruin, roofless and broken down,
when, in 1876, it was partly restored by the Marquis of Bute, who
shortly before had acquired the property. The unhatched part of the
Plan shows how the two independent towers have been connected by a
hall, with an outside stair leading up to the first floor. Judging from a
* Vol. I. p. 396.
THIRD PERIOD
350
THE OLD PLACE OF MOCHRUM
pliotograph taken while the buildings were in ruins, which shows the east
side where the new hall now stands, there does not seem to have been
previously any connection between the two towers further than the wall
above mentioned.
It is probable that a space was enclosed with a wall on the north and
west so as to form a courtyard between the two towers. At the west
end of the southern tower there exist the foundations of an archway or
pend, 7 feet wide (as shown on Plan), which doubtless formed the passage
into the courtyard. From the latter both towers had their entrance, the
Fig. 276.— The Old Place of Mochruiii. View from North-West.
door to the south tower being in the centre of the north side, where it
opens into a passage, off which was the kitchen occupying the ground floor.
At the end of the passage, and in the north-east corner of the tower, a
wheel-staircase leads to the vaulted hall, and to the upper floors and battle-
ments. The north building enters by a doorway in a tower which pro-
jects into the courtyard, and contains the staircase. The southern build-
ing measures 29 feet 10 inches from east to west by 23 feet 6 inches from
north to south, and the northei'n 36 feet 10 inches from north to south by
19 feet 4 inches from east to west.
The south tower only has been completely renovated and fitted up for
LITTLKDEAX CASTLE 351 —
THIRD PERIOD
occupation, with a communication formed to the new hall in the north
tower, which is only partially completed, but the whole structure is suit-
ably protected fi'om the ravages of the weather.
The peculiar crow-stepped gables shown on the north tower in the
View (Fig. 276) are after the old pattern of the locality. Similar crow-
steps may be seen on the ruined and untouched castle of Goldenock in the
same county, while the ordinary stepped gables shown on the south tower
are pi'obably a deviation made during the restoration.
The following historical notes are extracted from Lands and thHr
Otvners in Galloway* The lands of Mochrum were granted to Patrick,
Earl of March, by David ii. His descendants, the Dunbars, continued in
possession till they were acquired by the Marquis of Bute. " The least
ancient portion (of Mochrum) must have been built between 1474 and
1500, by Sir John Dunbar (one of the sons of Sir Alexander Dunbar of
Westfield, Hereditary Sheriff of Morayshire). His initials, I. D., and his
arms, which denote him to have sprung from the Randolph or Moray
Dunbars, are still to be found on the walls, and a still older coat of arms
of the March-Dunbars on the oldest portion of the castle." These arms,
we find from the same source, were quarterly, first and fourth, gules, a
lion rampant or, within a border of the last, charged with eight roses
of the first, for Dunbar, Earl of March ; second and third or, three
escutcheons within a double tressure, flory, counterflory, gules, for Ran-
dolph, Earl of Moray. So far as we observed, none of these heraldic
insignia are now to be seen at Mochrum.
Of the two towers, we presume the "least ancient" portion of the
building above referred to is the northern one, which is undoubtedly the
latest structure ; but from the style of the architecture it is clearly a
building of the Fourth Period. The corbelling near the top of the
staircase turret is of the small-membered kind usual at that time, while
in plan the building resembles Carsluith, built in 1581. The south
tower, which is certainly the older portion of the castle, may probably
have been built between 1474 and 1500. Gavin Dunbar, the archbishop,
was of the house of Mochrum.
LLTTLEDEAN CASTLE, Roxburghshire.
This is a structure of a very exceptional character ; indeed, it is quite
unique in plan amongst Scottish castles, and cannot be classed with any
of the usual divisions. It is situated near the Tweed, about two miles
eastward from St. Boswells.
The Plan (Fig. 277) is in the shape of the letter D. This peculiar
form may have been devised to suit the situation. The castle stands on
* Vol. I. pp. 254-275.
THIRD PERIOD
352
LITTLEDEAN CASTLE
the top of the high bank which rises above the Tweed on its right side.
It is thus well protected on the north, while the deep ravine of a small
tributary gives similar defence on the east. But on the west and south,
being the sides towards which the curve of the D is turned, the ground
rather rises away from the castle, rendering it liable to attack from those
quarters. Consequently we find the wall well provided with shot-holes
bearing in those directions, and the door is placed in the sheltered angle
facing the ravine. The walls are fully 6 feet in thickness, and are faced
with good ashlar. A string-course divides the height into two stories, and
the top of the wall has been crowned with a corbelled parapet. The
original structure has been altered, and probably enlai'ged, at a later date,
when gables have been carried up on the top, shaped to follow the curve
GROUND FLOOR PLAN.
Fig. 277.— Littledoan Castle.
FIRST FLOOR PLAN.
Plans.
of the Plan, and finished with crow-steps (Fig. 278). Two attic stories
were thus obtained in the roof. The original entrance door led to a
narrow passage, from which a circular stair ascended to the first floor,
and two doors opened into vaulted cellars on the ground floor. The first
floor contained the hall, with a large fireplace in the centre of the curve of
the D, and a recess at either side, each provided with two shot-holes and
a small window. There is also a small guardroom over the entrance
door, with a stone seat and ambry. The length of the hall cannot now
be determined, the east wall being entirely demolished. The east end
has evidently been considerably altered — fireplaces, &c., having been
inserted, and an outer door opened in the south wall close to the original
entrance doorway.
This castle belonged to a branch of the Kers of Cessford, but the
NUNRAW
353
THIRD PERIOD
Fto. 278.— Littledean Caslle. View from South-West.
date of its erection is unknown. From the style of the work and the
form of the shot-holes, it probably belongs to the end of the Third
Period.
NUNRAW, Haddingtonshire.
An interesting old mansion of the fifteenth century, which has now
been modernised. It stands on the top of a bank round which runs a
small stream in a deep glen, about three and a half miles north-east from
Gifford. It contains a finely painted ceiling,* with the date 1461, exhibit-
ing the usual armorial decorations.
* A coloured di-awing of this ceiling, by Mr. Thomas Bonnar, is reproduced in the
sketch book of the Edinburgh Architectural Association, 1875-6.
THIRD PERIOD
354 —
NEWBATTLE ABBEY
NEWBATTLE ABBEY,* Midlothian.
The site chosen for this abbey, which is about two miles from
Dalkeith, is, as was usual with the buildings of the Cistercian order, in a
quiet and fertile valley. It is surrounded with gentle wooded eminences,
enclosing rich meadows, through which flows the River Esk.
The existing mansion, the seat of the Marquis of Lothian, occupies
the site of the conventual buildings which lay on the east side of the
o o-
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3.TRAM3£FT
o
o
o
o
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o
o
o
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o
o
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:lOISTE1B GARTh
HO S PI TIUM
H 1 ( 1 1-
Fio. 279. — Newbattle Ahbey. Plau.
cloister garth and to the south of the choir and south transept (shown in
outline by dotted lines on Plan, Fig. 279). Only small portions of the
ancient buildings now remain. Of these the most important is the fratery,
with its central row of columns and vaulted roof (Fig. 280). The fireplace
in the View is modern, and the font shown on the left belonged to the
church. There are also portions of old buildings at the south-east and
south-west corners. Besides these but little of the ancient structure
survives, the description by Scot of Scotstarvet being literally true that
* For the Ground Plan and the drawings of mouldings (Figs. 279 and 280) we are
indebted to C. M. Patterson, Esq., Eskside House, factor for the Marquis of Lothian.
NEWBATTLE ABBEY
THIRD PERIOD
THIRD PERIOD 356 NEWBATTLE ABBEY
Mark Ker and his son, the Earl of Lothian, " did so metamorphose the
building that it cannot be known that ever it did belong to the church, by
reason of the fine new fabrick and stately edifices built thereon, except
only that the old name and walls of the precinct stands ; but instead of
the old monks has succeeded the deer." Here and there throughout the
house old stones and portions of building may be detected. There is one
stone in a passage on the first floor with a monogram of the letters
N. K. L. N., and the date 1580. The present structure is a very com-
posite fabric, and is hardly to be regarded as a specimen of the Domestic
Architecture of Scotland. It has been greatly added to and altered at
various times, and the description of it in the beginning of last century,
given in A Journey through Scotland* hardly applies now.
The writer says : " The entry to the Palace is as magnificent as can be
imagin'd. In the area, between the avenue and the outer gate, is the
statue of a Gladiator ; and on each side of the gate there is a large stone
Pavillion ; and through four square green courts you come to the Palace ;
each of the three first courts having rows of statues as big as the life ; and
in the fourth court the biggest Holly Trees I ever saw. You ascend to the
apartments by a great double stair on the outside of the House," &c.
Further on he continues: " Underneath the great stairs you enter a paved
court, which makes the centre of the House, and carries you into the
gardens." The edifice is now a compact, comfortable, and featureless
building.
There are preserved at Newbattle the accounts of extensive alterations
made in 1650, and again in 1693 ; and in the correspondence of the Earls
of Ancrum and Lothian f we find that, "according to tradition, the
building suffered by fire in 1769."
Mark Ker, second son of Sir Andrew Ker of Cessford, was com-
mendator of Newbottle at the time of the Reformation, and having
become a Protestant he kept the abbey. According to the Bannatyne
volume already referred to, he turned out the monks, and notwithstanding
their frequent complaints, " wald nevir gif thame ane penny to leif on."
Of the abbey church only the foundation now remains (as shown on
the Plan). It was of the usual Cistercian plan, having a short choir and
long nave, with a central tower and transepts. The nave contains nine
bays, and is about 167 feet 4 inches long, the central space being about
25 feet wide, and the total width, including the side aisles within the
walls, being about 57 feet. The width of the transept is about 28 feet,
and the length of the transept within the walls has been about 112 feet.
The total length of the interior of the church is 239 feet 3 inches.
The church J was consecrated in 1233 by the Bishop of Moray, and
was burned in 1385 by Richard ll. And again, two years afterwards, it
* "Vol. III. p. 52, published 1723. X Scod-Monasticon, by M. E. C. Walcott,
t Bannatyne Club.
CASTLE LACHLAN — 357 — THIRD PERIOD
was consumed by the English, " with its peel castles," " when the tower
was gi-eatly injured." Like all the other abbeys south of the Forth, it
frequently suffered spoliation, and probably the old portions of the struc-
ture enclosed in the present mansion (see Fig. 279) are part of a restoration
effected by Abbot John Creclitune in 147-, after some hostile attack.
The details of the stones found in the ruins all seem to belong to the
latest period of Gothic in Scotland. Two monumental sun-dials ornament
the flower-garden. They are exactly alike in design, and a di-awing of
one of them will be found in the chapter on sun-dials to be given in the
fourth volume of this work. Each stands on a widely-spread base of
steps, above which they rise to a height of about 16 feet. They bear the
initials of Countess Anne Kerr, who succeeded in her own right in 1621.
Ten years afterwards she married Sir Samuel Kerr of the Ancrum family,
whose initials are likewise carved on the dials.
Owing to its monastic origin and the frequent alteration this mansion
has undergone, it is not surprising to find that it cannot be classed under
any of the usual plans of Scottish houses. It is therefore treated as an
exceptional plan.
CASTLE LACHLAN,* Argyllshire.
Castle Lachlan is situated on the point of a small promontory jutting
out from a little bay on the eastern shore of Loch Fyne. The neck of
land which connects the castle with the mainland is low and marshy, and
may at an earlier period have been covered with water, while traces of a
moat can be seen running across it.
The castle is peculiar and almost unique in Scotland. Its external
appearance is that of a squarish structure, measuring 70 feet from north
to south by 54 feet from east to west, and 43 feet high to the top of the
battlements, with walls perfectly plain and crenellated along the top. It
has thus the appearance of a great keep ; but on going inside it is fouiid
to consist (Fig. 281) of two tenements, on the east and west sides of a
narrow open court or corridoi', 12 feet 6 inches wide by 34 feet 3 inches
long. These two blocks are connected at the north end by a small build-
ing contaming a room about 8 feet by 7 feet, and a wheel-staircase.
It is evident from the rows of corbels in the wall next the courtyard on
the upper floor of the east tenement (Fig. 282) that wooden hoardings have
been projected from it into the court, so as to form an overhanging passage
giving access to the rooms on the second floor. A similar overhanging
passage existed at the first floor level of the small north building, and
* We are indebted to John Maclachlan, Esq. of Maclachlan, for the use of MSS.
notes in his possession relating to this castle, describing its condition in 1830, as also
for other assistance.
THIRD PERIOD
— 358
CASTLE LACHLAN
formed a communication between the liall in the west block and the stair
leading to the east block. Entrance to this wheel-stair (in the north build-
ing) was obtained from the courtyard by the door on the ground floor.
On the first floor it gave access to the hail by one of the overhanging
passages, and on the second floor to the rooms in the east block by the
other.
The Sketch shows the corbels which carried the floor of these passages,
PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR
Fig. 281.— Castle Lachlan. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor.
as well as those which supported the timber runtree of the roof, in a
groove cut out of the corbels. Above the latter is a projecting water
table, which covered the junction of the sloping roof and the wall.
The original part of Hermitage Castle, illustrated in Vol. i. p. 528,
has a considerable resemblance in its general disposition to that found
here. The main structure measures 76 feet by 48 feet, and has an open
courtyard in the centre, but it is of a much more ancient date than
Lachlan. Ardchonnel Castle (illustrated in this volume) has, within an
CASTLE LACHLA.N
— 359 —
THIRD PERIOD
Fig. 282.— Castle Laclilaii. View of Courtyard, looking North.
THIRD PERIOD 360 CASTLE LACHLAN
ancient enclosure, liad latei' buildings added till it has become a struc-
ture embodying the same idea.
The approach to the castle is from the east, by a short steep pathway
along the south side, protected by a wall (as shown on the Ground Floor
Plan). The doorway, which has the usual bar-hole and wall recess, leads
directly into the court, from which the ground floor apartments, which are
all vaulted, enter. There are three divisions on the west side, measuring
8 feet high to the vault, and two on the east side measuring 14 feet in
height. One of the former is marked as the kitchen, on the authority of
a sketch plan belonging to Mr. Maclachlan, in which the fireplace is shown
at the west wall ; but this is the most ruinous part of the castle, and the
point is not quite clear. The cellar adjoining has a shot-hole (the only
one in the castle) in the outer wall and a window to the courtyard, while
the one to the north is entirely dark. The two eastern rooms get all their
light from the courtyard.
In an arched recess in the small l)uilding at the north end of the
courtyard are still to be found the ruins of the well. Its position is shown
on the Plan and in the View.
Two wheel-stairs lead from the courtyard to the upper floors and to
the battlements, which run round the castle on the top, but the doorways
leading to them are all built up, as are also many of the other doors and
windows throughout the castle (as shown by hatched lines on the Plans).
The door to the staircase adjoining the main entrance was, we believe, in
the position indicated on the Ground Floor Plan, and it appears to have
been covered with some kind of wooden hood, the corbels for supporting
which will be seen in the View looking towards the entrance (Fig. 283).
The MS. states that from the side of the north stair "a small trap-door
and stair led down at the back of the well, and terminated at the beach,
doubtless to serve in any emergency."
In the thick part of the central wall of the east building, where the
hatched lines are shown on the Plan, there is a stair from the cellars to
the second floor ; it is now inaccessible.
The hall occupies the whole of the western keep, and measures about
40 feet by 20 feet. It was reached by the stair adjoining the entrance to
the court as well as by the stair in the north building, as already described.
It had a large and handsome fireplace in the east side. An enlarged
section of the jambs is shown on the Plan. There were three outside
windows in the hall. Those of the west side are of different heights and
sizes, and of the one in the south wall only an indication remains, the
portions of the First Floor Plan left untinted at the south-west and north-
east corners having fallen entirely away. Two other windows from the
hall look into the courtyard ; the one adjoining the fireplace is about 6
feet up from the floor to the sill, the other is at the ordinary height, and
is quite small. These windows have had leaded glass let into the stone
CASTLE LACIILAN
361
THIRD PERIOD
work cit the lower part, and have probably had the upper part closed in
with some kind of shutters. The small room entering oflf the hall over the
well is inaccessible.
According to the MS., another great hall extended over the existing
hall, with an oak floor supported by beams resting on the stone corbels.
This was the " council room and gathering hall on festal occasions," and
"was called by the people Seomar Mulaic, or vipper chamber." In the
floor above this were the family apartments.
The east tenement is divided on the first floor into two rooms, each
containing a garde-robe, through which flues descend from garde-robes
in the floors above ; one of the flues opens on the battlements. We have
Fig. 283. — Castle Lachlan. View in Courtyard, looking towards Entrance.
been informed that in one of these flues there was found, about twelve
years ago, a number of small square tiles with Scripture subjects painted on
them.
The MS. states that a portion of the attic floor remained to a certain
degree intact in 1830, and was known as the "laird's bedroom." "The
rafters and some of the ceilings still remained, and the plastering was
unbroken."
Since the above date the castle has greatly deteriorated (see Fig. 284).
The writer of the MS. saw it then with all its external walls entire,
" ramparted on the four sides, and with embrasures at equal distances
apart." He further says: "The north corner" (now fallen) "had a jetty,
substantially trussed, attached to it." This doubtless means an over-
THIRD PERIOD
362 —
CASTLE LACHLAN
hanging turret. The west coi'ner (south-west on Plan) was surmounted
by a small tower or lantern, which served the double purpose of watch-
tower and beacon for the guidance of friends who might be seaward ;
while on the south wall there was a gable (called a pediment) " which
helped to support a conical roof over the main staircase."
t
H K^hi
Fig. 284.— Castle LacLlan. View from Nortli-West.
The castle continued to be the residence of the Maclachlans till 1746,
when the Government sent a warship to destroy the strongholds of the
Jacobite chiefs along the Western coast, but little damage was done to
Castle Lachlan, then inhabited by the widowed lady and her children,
with a few aged domestics. They fled, and remained in Appin for some
years ; and on the young laird's return he found the castle going to ruin,
and it has never again been occupied.
CASTLE LACIILAN 363 THIRD PERIOD
The writer of the MS. supposes that the castle was built between the
years 1330 and 1340. This date is too early by at least a century ; it is
much likelier to be the date of the ancient castle which stood on an island
in the loch not far distant, and which is believed to have been an earlier
residence of the family, but of which we know nothing.
The general character of the structure and the details seem to indicate
a castle of the Third Period. The projecting wooden passages recall those
at Crichton Castle, and the elliptical arches resemble those of Doune
Castle.
The steps and corner stones are built of the blue micaceous stone of
the locality, and the place where, centuries ago, the builders quarried the
stones of the stairs may be seen close to the castle.
It is satisfactory to be able to add that the ruins of this interesting
pile have recently been carefully pointed and cemented, so as to protect
them as far as possible from the ravages of the weather.
THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND.
FOURTH PERIOD— 1542 to 1700.
The conditions, whether histoi'ical or architectural, which accompanied
and produced this, the latest development of our Scottish style, have
been so fully discussed in the Introduction to the Fourth Period in
Vol. II. and in the introductory remarks to this volume, that it is
unnecessary to do more here than to remind the reader of the main facts.
After the death of James v. the country was plunged into the dis-
tractions and difficulties of a long minority. The infant-heiress of the
throne was only a few days old, and the country was committed to the
care of the indolent and fickle Regent Arran. The queen's mother
and the French party having thwarted Henry viii. in his scheme for
marrying the young queen to his son, the King of England resolved on
a bloody revenge. He sent an army into Scotland, and devastated the
southern counties in a fiercer and more unsparing manner than any of
his predecessors. All the towers, castles, and houses of every kind, and
even the churches and monasteries, of the south-east of Scotland, were
destroyed by the relentless hands of Surrey and Somerset. It is there-
fore not surprising to find almost no examples of domestic architecture
in this region save desolated ruins. Those structures which are observable
in a comparatively entire condition are either of later date than the middle
of the sixteenth century, or are restorations of ancient structures.
We occasionally meet with some examples of ruined Border towers of
the sixteenth century ; but the most of the edifices illustrated in this
district are of more recent date, and partake largely of the Renaissance
character. From the west and north of Scotland, however, where distance
from the scene of danger gave comparative security, a considerable number
of sixteenth-century examples are produced.
During the reign of Elizabeth, who aided the Reformers, a continual
struggle was maintained between the Lords of the Congregation and the
French garrison ; and after the return of Queen Mary, the endless factions
of her reign kept the country in a constant turmoil. It was not till the
INTRODUCTORY 365 — FOURTH PERIOD
quieter and more settled times of James vi. that leisure and means were
found for building operations.
In the few structures erected in Queen Mary's time, therefore, we
shall find, as might be expected, a continuance of the more rugged and
warlike features of our style ; while during the reign of lier son the
domestic architecture presents a reflection of his more peaceful epoch
in the transition of Scottish architecture, under the influence of the
Renaissance taste, from a rude and military aspect to one of picturesque-
ness and domesticity.
It has already been pointed out how this was led up to by the condi-
tions and circumstances of the time. The first germs of the Renaissance
had been sown in the reign of James v., and had now taken root, and
were ready to burst forth on the first favourable opportunity. The intro-
duction of artillery had rendered castles comparatively useless as fortresses,
and all that was now required was sufiicient strength to resist sudden
attack, and proper dispositions for the employment of firearms. The
secularisation of the greater proportion of the Chui'ch lands supplied the
gentry with the necessary funds for building ; while the closer connection
with England encouraged a taste for improved accommodation and more
refinement and elegance in the design of the mansions. There thus
occurred at the end of the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth
centuries a great revival of architectural activity in the country.
We shall find the changes introduced by the above conditions well
exemplified in the edifices erected by the wealthier proprietors, both in
town and country. We shall also notice that the old traditional plans of
the L form and the simple keep are still adhered to (with certain modifi-
cations) in the great majority of the country houses of the period. In
many of these houses — such, for instance, as the Border keeps — the
arrangements are as primitive as in the fourteenth century, the conditions
of life amongst the Border clans being probably but little clianged during
the 300 years which had elapsed. In other examples, however, tokens
of advancement are visible in the greater number and varied uses of the
apartments introduced, and in the separation of the kitchen and oflices
from the living rooms. The simple form of the plan is also frequently
modified with breaks or projections, while some remarkable variations
affecting the external appearance are produced.
The Courtyard Plan is also of frequent use, and is gradually assimilated
to the peaceful and well-ordered dispositions which had first been employed
in the royal palaces during the previous period, but were now extended to
many of the larger mansions throughout the land. Public buildings on
this plan are now for the first time introduced, in examples such as
Heriot's Hospital and Glasgow College.
Several new forms of plan also took their rise during this period.
These we have designated the Z Plan, the T Plan, and the E Plan.
FOURTH PERIOD 366 INTRODUCTORY
The first consists of a rectangular main block (similar to the simple
keeps), with a tower at two of the angles situated diagonally opposite
each other. This form of plan owes its origin chiefly to the use of fire-
arms, which became common at this time, the diagonally opposite towers
beino- so situated as to enable all the four walls of the central keep to be
protected with flanking fire from shot-holes pierced in them. These
towers also afforded a considei^able amount of bedroom accommodation
such as was then in demand. The circular towers are often corbelled out
to a square form near the top ; and these corbellings, together with the
staircase turrets in the angles, are often productive of striking effects
(see Clay potts, Ballone, &c.) The Z Plan was a great favourite at this
period, a number of the largest castles being erected on that model.
Castle Fraser is a noble example, in which one of the towers is round
and the other square. By that means considerable variety was given to
the external appearance.
This form of plan, however, was only employed at a specific period,
viz., when defence with firearms was of paramount importance. After
the necessity for such fortification had disappeared, the Z Plan was
gradually abandoned, and other forms of a more domestic type took
its place. The chief of these was the T Plan. This consists of an oblong
block of sufficient length to contain two apartments, sepai-ated by a
partition in the centre, opposite which, and projecting from one side,
is a tower containing the entrance doorway and circular staircase. The
latter gives access from a landing, by separate doors, to the two rooms
on each floor.
The E Plan is also of fi^equent occurrence in the later part of the
Fourth Period. It consists of the usual main oblong block, with a wing
projecting at either end from the same side of the structure. There is
likewise sometimes a central projection as in the letter E. From examples
of this form it will be observed that it affords a large amount of accom-
modation. The E Plan also indicates the tendency of the period towards
symmetry in planning. These modifications of the traditional plans, of
which numerous examples will be represented in the fourth volume, all
show advancement and improvement in domestic comfort. But the one
which was found to meet the requirements of the time most conveniently
was undoubtedly the L Plan. That form (although lacking in symmetry)
maintained precedence amongst all the other designs of tower-built houses,
by far the largest number of the mansions of the period being erected on
the L Plan. The L Plan and the Courtyard Plan accordingly survived
all the others, and have continued to be used till the present day.
In nearly all the earlier Scottish castles and houses the principal
rooms are on the first floor, the ground floor being occupied with the
vaulted kitchen, offices, and cellars. This construction was originally
adopted for defensive purposes — the vaulted basement, with its small
IXTRODUCTORY 367 FOURTH PERIOD
loops, giving considerable security both against assault and lire. The
ground floor was also found convenient in later times for containing the
kitchen and cellars, while the principal rooms above had the advantage
of dryness and good look-out. But this arrangement, although still
general, was not now universal ; and in several examples — such as
Magdalen's House, Argyll's Lodging, and Heriot's Hospital — we find
the hall or dining-room situated on the ground floor. The internal
features of the plan also came to be greatly modified and improved,
especially after Scotland and England were more closely united by the
accession of James to the English throne. The wheel-stair had hitherto
been the almost invariable form in Scottish houses. The first flight from
the entrance door to the principal floor was during the Fourth Period
generally a wide one, and occupied a special staircase tower. From the
first floor access was obtained to the rooms on the upper floors by spiral
stairs generally placed in turrets corbelled out to receive them in the
angles, or wherever required. Elcho Castle presents a very striking-
instance of this arrangement, having a wide stair to the first floor, and
numerous turret stairs inserted where needed in order to give separate
access to all the bedrooms on the upper floors — the idea of one principal
staircase leading to the various stories, with a corridor on each floor
giving access to the difierent apartments, having not yet been entertained.
In the seventeenth century straight stairs were gradually introduced
and carried up in wide flights, at first only to the principal floor, but
afterwai'ds to the upper floors also. Examples of diff'erent stages of this
gradual progress may be seen in Craigievar, Dunnottar, and Crichton
Castles. Various other new features of the plan, such as bow windows
and porches, also now became more common.
In Vol. II. the changes which took place during the Fourth Period
in the external aspect and decorative features of the Scottish style are
described at length. We shall therefore now only shortly recapitulate
them.
The numerous towers, and staircase and angle turrets above referred
to, added much to the picturesque efiect of the exterior. The absorption
of the open parapet walk and open bartizans into the interior structure,
and the erection of dormer windows and conical roofs in connection with
that alteration of design, had also great influence in changing the appear-
ance of the edifices from a somewhat heavy and military aspect to one of
lightness and domesticity. The ornaments derived from the originally
massive corbelling were now modified into ornamental bands of chequered
work, and the crenellations of the parapet were imitated in the decorative
zig-zag or label work so much employed in connection with the corbelling
of the parapet and turrets.
Notwithstanding the tenacity with which the national style of our
Scottish buildings was adhered to, it was at this period considerably
FOURTH PERIOD 368 INTRODUCTORY
affected by the Renaissance feeling which pei'vaded the whole of Europe.
The general character of the late Gothic work everywhere was marked
by the abundant use of steep roofs broken up with pointed dormers, and
crowned with lofty clustered chimneys, by numerous towers and turrets
with tall pointed roofs, and by the frequent use of timber quartering with
rows of corbels boldly projected and strutted at every floor to sustain the
overhanging stories. The Scottish Architecture of the corresponding
date natvirally followed the same general dispositions. But there was
one respect in which the development of these features in Scotland
difiered from that elsewhere. Being a country in which good building
stone abounds, while timber suitable for building purposes was scarce, it is
not surprising to find that many of the above ideas which were elsewhere
executed in woodwork, were here carried out in masonry. It is especially
to be observed that almost every structure of the Fourth Period exhibits
a certain amount of stone corbelling in its design, while in many it
constitutes the leading feature. This indicates how the Scottish archi-
tects, while following the general character of the style prevalent at
the time, brought it into subjection to their own requirements, and carried
it out in their own way.
The unsettled condition of the country also tended to prolong many
of the defensive expedients -yvhich in other countries had been abandoned.
Thus angle turrets were retained and provided with shot-holes through
the corbelling. For the same reason shot-holes were inserted under
every window sill, and wherever required, to command all important
and exposed points, the entrance doorway being always well covered.
We have seen how defence with firearms influenced the planning of houses,
and produced the Z Plan. The same necessity for protection could not
fail to influence the character of the external design generally. It has
already been pointed out that the introduction of the Renaissance at the
late period to which defensive elements were retained in Scotland had a
material eff"ect on our later architecture ; for, while in England and on
the Continent the transition from a warlike to a domestic style occurred
during the late Gothic period, the same change did not take place in
Scotland till after the general acceptance of the Renaissance. The result
was that here we have military features mingled with Renaissance work,
whereas elsewhere they are generally combined with late Gothic work —
a fact which has not been sufliciently considered by those who think that
Scottish architecture is a mere copy of that of France. This circumstance
alone would be quite sufiicient to demolish that fanciful theory.
Although some examples of French Renaissance had been imported
by James v. into Scotland eai'ly in the sixteenth century, as in the palaces
at Stirling and Falkland, it was not till nearly a century later that Ren-
aissance design became general throughout the country. The work of the
French artists brought over by James is quite isolated, and seems to
INTRODUCTORY — 369 FOURTH PERIOD
have produced little or no influence on the art of the kingdom at the
time. It was not, indeed, till the Union of the Crowns had brought
Scotland into close connection with England that the Renaissance
became general.
The growth of that style, here as elsewhere, was very gradual, its first
influence being as usual exerted upon the details. Architraves of a rude
and bold description were substituted for simple mouldings round door and
window openings, and the gablets of dormers gradually assumed fantastic
shapes. Elaborate interpenetrating oi'naments appeared over doors and
windows, balustrades took the place of crenellated parapets, and finally
the whole structure became transformed under the permeating influence
of the new style.
The course of the transition from the Scottish to the Renaissance
style is most interesting to follow, and the result, as seen in such a
progressive series of edifices as Argyll's Lodging at Stirling, Glasgow
College, and Heriot's Hospital, is very charming.
It has already been shown that the Renaissance first affected the in-
terior elements. The Scottish mansions of the earlier periods had probably
never been remarkable for the elegance and finish of their internal decora-
tions, so that when a demand arose amongst the Scottish nobles, as the
result of their contact with their more refined neighbours in the South,
for greater comfort and taste in interior accommodation, the work was
naturally carried out in the Renaissance style then prevalent in England.
But the external Scottish architecture, having a strong individuality,
was not easily overcome, and asserted itself long after the interior details
were completely changed.
The subject of the remarkable development of the angle turrets so
characteristic of the Fourth Period, and their relation to the gables, has
been amply discussed in Vol. li. p. 10. When the turrets had grown
to be of considerable size, they were naturally looked upon as small
rooms, being quite as large as many of the apartments in the wings
and towers of the castles. This led to their being still further increased
in diameter ; and in order to keep up a proportion between their width
and their height, it became necessary to extend them through several
stories. Thus at Glamis and Castle Eraser the angle turrets are two
stories in height, while at Earl Patrick's Palace they are corbelled out
over the basement and carried up through the whole elevation above.
In the latter edifice we haA^e a striking illustration of the course of the
progress of the Scottish style. As late as the beginning of the seven-
teenth century we find the external features of the national style firmly
adhered to, but we also notice a change taking place in the mode of
applying them. Thus at the Kirkwall Palace, although corbelled angle
turrets with Scottish mouldings are still employed, their original purpose
is departed from, and they are here adopted either as small independent
2 A
FOURTH PERIOD 370 INTRODUCTORY
chambers or as open recesses in the large rooms. They have thus almost
been converted into bow windows, similar to the large oriels introduced
beside them. This, it may be remarked, is a purpose which the angle
towers admirably serve in many modern mansions. We here detect one
feature of the Scottish style in the act of transition from the defensive
turret to the angle bow, a design of common and most attractive treat-
ment throughout Geinnany during the Renaissance. A few steps further
in the same direction would have completely transformed the Scottish
style and made it suitable, when divested of all its warlike elements, for
the domestic purposes of more peaceful times. But, unfortunately, this
was prevented by the advent of the Renaissance. Already several
features of peaceful domestic architecture were being brought in from
England, such as bow windows, porches, etc. The former delightful
adjuncts of the English mansions of the sixteenth century had hitherto
been almost unknown in Scotland, but were now introduced and very
effectively carried out in the Scottish style, in examples such as Castle
Huntly, the Castle of Maybole, and in the above cited example at
Kirkwall. Porches also now began to be employed in front of entrance
doors, but these and door-pieces generally, being comparatively small,
were speedily taken possession of by the Renaissance.
The exterior details of the Scottish style, however, died hard. Even
when supposed to be converted to the new style, they still retained for a
long time some reminiscences of their former shape. The architraves
round doors and windows, although intended to be classic, generally
consist of a great roll and hollow in addition to the O. G. moulding
which forms the outer frame of the architrave, while the cornices,
although classic in general form, continue to employ many of the earlier
enrichments derived from the corbelling. The windows and dormers also
still exhibit shafts and bands recalling some of the Gothic elements of an
earlier time. That our Scottish domestic style might have been gradually
transformed into a peaceful one, as national and distinctive as that of
earlier times, and as well suited to the requirements of modern habits
and needs, can hardly be questioned. If we consider the design of such
simple mansions as Fountainhall, we see at a glance that the general idea
is Scottish. We have only to imagine Scottish details substituted for the
Renaissance ones of the doors, windows, and dormers, in order to perceive
the natural and simple manner in which our national style might have
been preserved and modified so as to suit modern notions of what is
becoming in a domestic structure, simple but expressive of its character.
The powerful and speedy influence of the Renaissance on the internal
design and finishings of Scottish mansions has already been adverted to.
So great was that influence that almost all the interior details which
survive are of the Renaissance type. The walls of the apartments are
almost invariably panelled in wood, the panels being frequently divided
INTRODUCTORY 371 FOURTH PERIOD
by fluted pilasters with Corinthian or Ionic caps and bases. The latter rest
on a surbase, and are finished with a classic cornice either of wood or plaster.
The chief decoration is lavished on the ceilings, which are executed in
plaster, and in the case of principal rooms are almost invariably divided
with moulded ribs into fanciful panels, the fields of which are frequently
enriched with monograms, medallions, or heraldic emblems. Of these
decorations the past and present volumes contain numerous examples.
This was doubtless part of the Renaissance style of design imported from
England. Towards the middle and end of the seventeenth century this
light and elegant style of plaster work gave place to heavier forms, in
which the ceilings were divided into large panels surrounded with massive
mouldings, enriched with groups of fruit and foliage. Much of this orna-
ment was modelled by hand (not cast, like ordinary plaster work), and
contains fine design and workmanship.
The large panels in the ceilings and the wall panels, especially those
over the mantelpieces, were frequently filled with good paintings. Fine
examples of all these styles of decoration were at one time not uncommon
in the Old Town of Edinburgh, but they are now becoming very rare.
Some specimens, partly demolished and partly still existing, from old
Edinburgh houses, are, however, included in this series.
It has already been pointed out in the Introduction to this volume
how the national style spread its influence over every kind of structure,
including churches and monuments, town halls, (fee, until obliterated by
the Renaissance. A considerable number of examples of these structures
still survive, and are illustrated in Vol. iv. To these are added a large
series of drawings of sun-dials, a species of ornamental sculpture in which
Scotland is peculiarly prolific.
The result of the whole subject is, that from the thirteenth to the
seventeenth century there existed in Scotland a style of architecture
which extended over the length and breadth of the kingdom, includ-
ing the islands, while it was limited in geographical extent by the
boundaries of Scotland, and was practised nowhere else. This style
adapted itself during all those centuries to the various needs of the
country, whether in prosperity or adversity. It was found suitable for
all kinds of structures, and was modified as required so as to be applic-
able to the great castles of the First Period and the rude keeps of the
Second Period — to the refined palaces of the Third Period, and the
ornamental mansions and comfortable dwellings of the Fourth Period.
It was employed both in town and country, alike by rich and poor.
Castles, mansions, town houses, churches, monasteries, prisons, schools,
and every kind of edifice were designed in it. It was the Scottish style
of architecture peculiar to the country, and besides it there was no other
in the land.
Having thus a style so national and so universally applicable, would
FOURTH PERIOD 372 BUSBIE CASTLE
it not be well for our architects to adliere to it, and endeavour, after the
example of their predecessors, to adapt it to all the various requirements
of our time as their predecessors did in their time 1
In describing the castles of the Fourth Period the principle hitherto
adopted is adhered to. We commence with the simple keeps, then con-
tinue with the L Plans, the Z, the T, and the E Plans, following with
the Courtyard Plans, and concludiiig with a number of fragmentary
structures and details which could not be included in any of the above
categories. Each series of buildings is taken topographically, in the
same order as formerly — i.e., beginning in the west, we move by the south-
west along the south of Scotland, then take the central districts, and
finally those further north.
I. SIMPLE KEEPS.
BUSBIE CASTLE,* Ayrshire.
A shattered structure of the Fourth Period, situated on the Carmel
Water, about two miles west of Kilmai'nock. It is on the plan of the
simple keep (Fig. 285), 37 feet C inches long by 24 feet 6 inches wide, and
about 50 feet in height, as shown on the west elevation. The entrance
is on the ground floor, and by a passage gives access to two cellars
or stores, and to a wheel-stair in the north-west angle. The latter
conducts to the upper floors. The first fioor is chiefly occupied by the
hall, which has a large fireplace, and windows with stone seats at the
east end. Possibly a portion at the west end of this floor was divided
ofi" by a partition so as to form a kitchen (as was often done), there
being indications of a fireplaee and large chimney at that end of the
tower. From this there is a stair to the cellar, and a drain through the
wall at the bottom. The second floor was divided into two apartments,
and had a passage giving separate access to each, and the top story was
probably divided in a similar manner. The exterior (Fig. 286) has a
greater attempt at elegance of details than is often the case. The
principal windows and doorway are round arched, and have a large roll
moulding, and the angle turrets are ornamented with several cable
enrichments, and with finer mouldings than usual on the corbels, and they
have also stone roofs.
* The Plans of this castle liave been kindly supplied by Mr. Railton.
BUSBIE CASTLE
— 373
FOURTH PERIOD
The gabled capehouse over the staircase has also similar enrichments.
The horizontal shot-holes of the basement, and the details above referred
to, indicate a date about 1600.
The angle turrets are also provided with shot-holes, which ax'e marked
by a bend of the cable moulding, so arranged, however, as to allow of
GROUND FLOOR THIRD FLOOR
Fir.. 285.— Busbie Castle. Plans and West Elevation.
shooting from them. There was no parapet, the roof extending over the
whole building, but there are gargoyles at the back of the turrets to
discharge the water from behind them.
Busbie was long the property of the Mowats, whose connection with
it terminated in the early part of the seventeenth century. " Frequent
notice of the Mowats of Busbie," says Mr. Fullerton, "occurs in the public
FOURTH PERIOD
374
CLONBEITH CASTLE
records, but for several centuries of the latter part of their history they do
not appear to have occupied any very conspicuous place."*
Fig. 2S6.- Biisbie Castle. View IVoiu South-East.
CLONBEITH CASTLE, f Ayrshire.
A simple oblong mansion of the Fourth Period, situated on the west
bank of the Lugton, about three and a half miles north-east of Kilwinning.
The structure, which is very ruinous (Fig. 287), measures 37 feet 6 inches
by 23 feet, and the walls are 2 feet 6 inches thick. The ground floor
has been vaulted. The entrance doorway is nearly in the centre, and led
by a passage on the right to the straight staircase, which gave access to
the hall on the first floor. A wheel-stair in a square chamber in the angle
* M 'Kay's History of Kilmarnock, p. 33.
t The drawings of this building have been kindly supijlied by Mr. Railton.
HESSILHEAD CASTLE
375
FOURTH PERIOD
conducted to the upper floors, which unfortunately are now demolished.
The hall (Fig. 288) was 28 feet by 18 feet, with windows in three of the
walls, a large fireplace on one side, and a circular bow window on the
opposite side boldly projected on a series of corbels. This window is
in the centre of the entrance front, immediately over the doorway. The
Pig. 2S7.— Clonbeith Castle. Entrance Front.
whole design of that front is thus arranged symmetrically, with doorway
and corbelled bow as central features, and a window on either side. The
doorway (Fig. 289) is of early Renaissance type, and bears the date 1607.
Fig. 288.— Clonbeith Castle.
Plan of First Floor.
Fig. 289.— Clonbeith Castle, Doorway.
" The Cuninghames of Clonbeith, according to Nisbet, were cadets of
Glencairn, through the Cuninghames of Aiket."* The estate continued
with that family till 1717, when it was purchased by the Earl of Eglinton.
HESSILHEAD CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A ruin situated in the parish of Beith on level ground, now enclosed
as a garden. According to Pont it was "a stronge old building environed
* Pout's Cunningham, p. 273.
FOUETH PERIOD
37G
HESSILIIEAD CASTLE
vith lairge ditches seatted on a loch." It is now a roofless, ivy-clad ruin,
with considerable portions of the walls broken down. The castle (Fig.
290) is an oblong structure built at two periods, and measures about
74 feet from east to west by 38 feet 6 inches from north to south.
The building may be described as it now stands, because any attempt
to trace its original plan would be hopeless. The old or western part
was apparently a keep of the Third or Fourth Period. The new part
- I I ■
o ' ■ 1. ■ '
Fig. 290.— Hessilhead Castle. Flan of Ground Floor.
was built by Francis Montgomerie of GifFen, who purchased the estate in
1680 from his kinsman, Robert Montgomerie, the last male representative
of the family of Hessilhead. The entrance, which is now built up, was
on the south side, and led into a hall containing a scale and platt stair, of
which a few steps still remain. The hall being in the centre of the house,
a door on either hand leads into the old and new parts, both of which
were vaulted on the ground floor. The basement of the west end is
lighted by two narrow slits, and contains a wheel-staircase in the north
Fig. 291.— Hessilhead Castle.
wall which led to the upper floors. Opposite this staircase are the ruins
of what seems to have been an oven. From the entrance hall the new
building is reached by a vaulted passage which runs across the house
and out by a door on the north side. The principal apartment here is
the kitchen, with a large fireplace at the end. The upper floors can
hardly be said to exist, and therefore cannot be accurately described.
At the entrance door (Fig. 291) there have been built into the wall
what appear to be the caps of fireplace jambs.
NEWMILNS TOWER 377 FOURTH PERIOD
The estate of Hessilhead was a part of the lortlship of GiiTen, and
along with other portions was given off to younger sons of the Mont-
gomeric family. When it was so alienated is not known, but the name
of Hugh Montgomerie of Hessilhead is found in records of the year 1550.
The principal glory of Hessilhead consists in its having been the birth-
place of the poet Alexander Montgomerie, well known, if not widely read,
as the author of " The Cherry and the Slae."
Hessilhead was at one time occupied by the family of Lord Glasgow,
and after they left, the propiietor, a Mr. Macmichael, about the year 1776,
took off the roof and allowed the place to go to ruin.*
For further particulars regarding this castle see Cuiminglicon, by T.
Pont, with continuation by J. S. Dobie.
NEWMILNS TOWER, Ayrshire.
In the heai't of the thriving town of Newmilns, about seven miles
from Kilmarnock, stands the old dovecot tower. Its early history is
forgotten, but it was one of the residences of the Campbells of Loudoun.
Towards the end of the seventeenth century it was occupied by Captain
Inglis, and used as a prison for the Covenanters. It now forms an
adjunct to an inn, and contains stabling and hay and corn lofts, so that
access to the various floors is diflicult. The entrance doorway is on the
ground floor, and close beside it begins the wheel-stair, in the south-east
angle, which leads to all the upper flooi'S. Of these there are two and an
attic. The Plan (Fig. 292) shows the second floor, which contains one
Fig. 202.— Newmilns Tower. Plan of Second Floor.
room 19 feet long by 14 feet wide, with a fireplace, a window on each
side, and two wall-chambers. The building is only 30 feet by 24 feet
over all, and the walls are 5 feet thick. Externally (Fig. 293) it is
marked by the somewhat unusual features of two string-courses and a
base. The doorway has evidently been enlarged, but the panel over it
* Paterson's Ayrshire Families, Vol. i. p. 288.
FOURTH PERIOD
378 —
NEWARK CASTLE
is original. The tower seems to have had an open parapet, with open
bartizans at the angles, all supported on a series of continuous corbelling.
From the portions remaining, which comprise part of the south-east
bartizan, with gargoyles for the water, it is apparent that the bartizan
Via. 203. — Newmilns Tower. View from South-East.
was open. There would also appear to have been shot-holes in the
wall of the top story. From the style of the corbelling and other
details, this is undoubtedly a building of the earlier part of the Fourth
Period.
NEWARK CASTLE,* Ayrshire.
This structure is situated about four miles south from Ayr, and not
far from Kirk Alloway and the Brig o' Doon. It occupies a rising
* We are indebted for the Plans of and information regarding this castle to James
D. Robertou, Esq. , Park Terrace East, Glasgow.
NEWARK CASTLE
379 —
FOURTH PERIOD
position on tlie slope of the Carrick Hills, and stands on a rock which
pierces through the soil, and from which the surrounding ground falls
away. The tower has thus a much more commanding aspect than would
be expected from its modest dimensions. It was surrounded by a wet
moat, only recently filled up (says Paterson in the History of Ayr and
Wigton), and had a drawbridge. As will be seen from the Plans
(Fig. 294), the edifice belongs to two periods. The earliest tower is
almost square, and measures about 32 feet 6 inches from east to west
by 27 feet 8 inches, the length of both structures from east to west
being 55 feet. The height from the rock to the top of the roof is
PLAN OF 3"-' FLOOR
T D D 1 IT
BATTLEMENTS
W/M
'wm.
c^-^
u
L
W//A
I
PLAN OF 2"-° FLOOR
Fig. 294.— Newark Castle, rian.s.
about 50 feet, and the rock stands about 8 or 9 feet above the level of
the surrounding ground. About forty years ago an extensive addition
was made to the castle on the west and north sides, when unfortunately
the architect insisted on clearing away the picturesque old staircase lead-
ing to the entrance into the courtyard at the north-east corner, showai on
Fig, 295. This view of the castle is copied from an unpublished sketch
by a Mr. Clark in the Library of the Royal Scottish Academy.
The old tower contains four stories and the battlements, the ground
floor being vaulted. In the addition to the west there is an extra room
at a lower level than the cellar in the tower. This is inserted in a hollow
between two portions of the rock, and is called Gun Room on the Plans.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 380
NEWARK CASTLE
The present entrance is in the west side of the newer structure (Fig.
294), and from it access is obtained to the old building, the door to which
probably remains in the original position adjoining the staircase. The
wheel-stair in the north-west corner of the old tower I'uns from top to
bottom, giving access to the rooms of both towers. Two curious closets
occur in the thickness of the west wall of the old tower, one on the ground
floor and the other on the floor above. Both enter from the staircase,
and are lighted by narrow slits. These may possibly have been garde-
Fio. 295.— Newark Castle. View from North-East.
robes. The two upper floors are each divided into two rooms. On
the second floor one of these rooms is very small, and is lighted by a
long narrow window placed at a considerable height above the floor, and
raised up above the level of the ceiling, the ingoing in the wall being
sloped down to it. The battlement walk (Figs. 295 and 296) goes round
three sides of the old tower ; but previous to the addition being put up
it appears to have gone round the fourth side also, as the corbels for
supporting the south-west corner turret still remain (see Fig. 296). The
turrets project considerably on bold detached corbels. That at the
NEWARK CASTLE
— 381
FOURTH PERIOD
south-east corner is a garde-robe, and has a stone seat and aperture
between the corbels. It was enclosed with a door, the stonewoi'k being
neatly checked to receive it. The other turret forms a protecting
bartizan for a sentinel.
Newark was a jointure house of the Kennedies of Bargany, and the
following few historical notices of the place occur about 1580. "Black
Fig. 296. — Newark Castle. View from South- East.
Bessie Kennedy" was infeft in the "New-Wark" by Bargany, in con-
nection with which a long story is told in the Ilistorie of the Kennedyis
(p. 15), a story of bloodshed and private war which went on for genera-
tions between the houses of Cassillis and Bargany after the "slachter of
Sir Thomas Kennedy, the Laird of Colzeone," in 1602. The Laird of
Auchindrayne (a neighbouring proprietor), who was suspected by the
FOURTH PERIOD
382 —
GREENAN CASTLE
~ -,r-^v./i^ui^''^^^'
Fro. 207.— Greenan Castle. View from Sontli-West.
GREENAN CASTLE
383
FOURTH PERIOD
deceased's friends of being an accomplice, " left his awin house and zeid
to the Newark (the residence of Duncan Crawford of Newark), quhilk
wes hot ane myle disserentt fra Auchindrayne." He appears to have
taken this step because of the situatiini and strength of Newark ; for
when the friends of the murdered laird came out with horsemen, expect-
ing to find him on his way between the two houses, he had reached
Newark in safety, and managed, with assistance, to make them retire
with "schame."
Paterson mentions that over the doorway at the top of the outside
stair there was a tablet with the inscription, "James Craufurd and
Anna Kennedy was married upon the last day of June 1687. They
bought and possessed this house the said yeir. J. C. A. K." They doubt-
less built the east stair, the entrance and adjoining low buildings, and
very probably the extension of the keep, shown on the Plan, was also
executed by them.
GREENAN CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A simple keep of the Fourth Pei'iod, which occupies a prominent
position on the edge of a cliff overhanging the sea about three miles
south of Ayr (Fig. 297). It was occupied in the beginning of the seven-
teenth century by John Kennedy of Baltersan ; and the letters J. K.
over the doorway, with the date 1603, seem to show that it was erected
by him. There was, however, a previous "fortalice" on the lands of
Fio. 298.— Greenan Castle. Plan of First Floor.
Greenan, which were held in the fifteenth century by a family named
Davidson. The keep (Fig. 298) measures about 35 feet by 28 feet. The
entrance doorway is on the ground floor, which is vaulted, and from which
a wheel-staircase in the north-east angle leads to the upper floors. The
first floor is occupied by the hall, about 25 feet by 20 feet, with windows
on all sides, and a large fireplace. The second floor has been similar ;
and above it was a third story, partly in the roof, and lighted with
dormers. The top floor has also had roofed turrets at the angles.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 384 —
CRAWFURDLAND CASTLE
furnished with the usual corbellings and shot-holes. The situation of
this castle is very picturesque, and it forms a pleasing object in the views
of the Bay of Ayr.
CRAWFURDLAND CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A large modern mansion, about three miles west of Kilmarnock,
which incorporates an old tower, long the fortress of the Crawfurds of
Crawfurdland. The old tower (Fig. 299) is three stories in height, above
which is the open parapet carried on continuous corbellings, and simply
Fig. 299.— Crawfurdland Castle. View from North-West.
rounded at the angles, without projecting bartizan. Above this is the
roof, with crow-stepped gables, and higher still the capehouse over the
staircase, also finished with crow-stepped gablets.
The windows have evidently been enlarged. The vaulted basement
is provided with wide shot-holes. Internally the tower is modernised.
It appears to belong to the early part of the Fourth Period.
CROSRAGUEL GATEHOUSE 385 FOURTH PERIOD
CROSRAGUEL GATEHOUSE, Ayrshire.
Although this is part of a monastic buikling, it is so distinctly
civil in its architecture, and is such a well-preserved and picturesque
example of the early style of the Fourth Period, as to be well entitled
to a place beside the other specimens of the domestic architecture of that
date.
There is no positive record of its erection, l)ut there can be little
doubt but that it was built during the time of Abbot Quintin Kennedy
(1547-64), son of the second Earl of Cassillis. The ten brethren who,
with their abbot and sub-prior, constituted the community of Crosraguel,
*' lost about this time from their number one Gilbert Macbrayar, who is
recorded as having made many sumptuous additions to the abbey build-
ings. Quintin Kennedy was probably the first abbot to occupy the
stately mansion to the south-east of the cloister."* The latter remark
applies to the Abbot's Tower, now in ruins, which formed a keep pre-
cisely similar to the simple keeps of the landowners, with a hall and
other rooms attached to it in the courtyard. After this abbot's death
the estates of the abbey were secularised, and Allan Stewart, the com-
mendator who succeeded him, disposed of the property, and erected no
buildings.
The plan of the gatehouse (Fig. 300) shows an arched passage on the
ground floor leading into the outer court of the monastery, with a narrow
guard-room or porter's lodge in the thickness of ^
the west wall. The upper floors are approached
by a staircase in the circular turret on the east ^,
side, the door to which enters from the courtyard. '^^^^''^M'^^^Mi
This staircase also gives access to the parapet walk ^^^B A
of the eastern enclosing wall. The two upper ^ 1 1
floors each contain a single apartment, about 14
feet by 11 feet, with windows in the north and Fig. 300.
south walls, furnished with stone seats, and tire- dosraguel Gatehouse. Plan.
places, garde-robes, &c. They probably formed the abode of the porter,
and perhaps also a guest-chamber.
The parapet and bartizans seem to have been open, and a small look-
out chamber, entering from the parapet, Avas constructed over the stair
turret by corbelling it out to the square (Fig. 301). This is rudely done,
and indicates one of the early attempts at this style of work. The
dovecot of the abbey is shown in the sketch, and is not dissimilar in style
to the gatehouse. The gable to the west of the gatehouse is part of the
domestic ofiices in the outer courtyard.
* The Charters of the Abbey of Crosraguel, published by the Ayr and C4alloway
Archaeological Association, 1886, p. xli.
2 B
FOUETH PERIOD
386 CROSRAGUEL GATEHOUSE
(LtiLfrilpW! ' ■ ' ■ ■ iMl!^: ' ' \ 'TIT!,,!.! M j - ,
i/i;;FMi;'
KNOCKDOLIAN CASTLE
— 387
FOURTH PERIOD
KILHENZIE CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A simple keep of the Foui-th Period, which, after standing some time
in ruins, lias now been restored and enlarged into a modern mansion.
It stands on high ground about one and a half miles south of Maybole.
John Baird, laird of Kilhenzie, was well known at the end of the
sixteenth century as concerned in the local feuds of the time.
KNOCKDOLIAN CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A small square pele tower (Fig. 302) in fair preservation, standing
close to the high north-west bank of the River Stinchar, about two miles
south-west from Colmonell. There are no special features connected with
— -a^'_
4v'iv
Fig. 302.— Knockdolian Castle. View from Noi'th-West.
this tower except that a stone carved with an ancient memorial cross
has been used as one of the sills. The tower (Fig. 303), which measures
35 feet by 25 feet, contains, as usual, a single room on each floor. In
FOURTH PERIOD 388 CRAIG CAFFIE TOWER
the sixteenth century, when this pele was probably built, the lands of
Knockdolian belonged to the family of Grahame.* Sir John Grahame
of Knockdolian was married to Dame Helen Kennedy, eldest daughter of
Thomas Kennedy, "the auld laird" of Bargany. In the grounds con-
nected with the old castle may still be observed some remarkable mounds,
the origin and object of which are often matter of conjecture, but are
explained by the following passage from the Rev. W. Abercrummie's
Descriptio7i of Carrick : — "The house of Knockdolian, on the east foot
Fig. 303.— Kuoelcdoliau Castle. Plans.
of Knockdolian Hill, the seat of the M'Kubbins ; about which is shew en
what art and Industrie can doe to render a place to which nature hath
not been favourable very pleasant by planting of gardens, orchards, walks,
and rows of trees that surprize the beholder with things so far beyond
expectation in a country so wild and mountainous."
The beauty of the place is still well maintained by the present
proprietor, William M'Connel, Esq., whose mansion is situated within
one hundred yards of the old tower.
CRAIG CAFFIE TOWER, Wigtonshire.
A tower occupying a secluded situation not far from the east side of
Loch Ryan, about three miles from Stranraer, f It is situated in a
* According to Paterson's History of Carrick (Vol. it. p. 161), "The old castle
of Knockdolian was built about the middle of the seventeenth century by Fergus
M'Cubbin and Margt. Kennedy, his spouse, on, it is believed, the foundation of a
much more ancient structure of the knightly family of the Grahams, the ancient
proprietors of the estate." But from the design of the Inxilding it seems to be of
older date ; probably the re-building above spoken of referred to extensive repara-
tions of the older structure.
t Having failed to obtain access to the interior we are indebted, for the accompany-
ing Plan of and for information concerning it, to John M'Lachlan, Escj. , architect,
Edhdjurgh, whose monograph of the building, with illustrations, is published in the
Proceedinr/s of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland (Sessions 1868-70).
CRAIG CAFFIE TOWER
389
FOURTH PERIOD
hollow, and was surrounded by a fosse. The tower (Fig. 304), which is
in a good state of preservation, is of small dimensions, measuring only
some 30 feet 9 inches from east to west, l)y
about 19 feet 9 inches from north to south,
and 36 feet 6 inches to the top of the para-
pets. It contains three floors and an attic
and has open battlements along the gables
only, with angle bartizans (Fig. 305). The
ground floor is vaulted and has a draw-well
in the middle of the floor. The door is on
the ground level and opens directly on the ^'"- ^o^-Caig CaOie Tower. Plan.
stair which ascends in the north-west angle to the tttp. Alcove the out
Fio. 305.— Craig Caffie Tower. View from North-East.
side of the entrance door there has been some ornamental woi-k, now all
defaced except the faded remnants of some human masks. Over this and
FOURTH PERIOD
390
HILLS CASTLE
immediately under the eaves of the roof a stone machicolation is corbelled
out for the defence of the dooi-way.
Mr. M'Lachlan points out that on the face of the bottom crow-step
of the north gable are the figures 1-5 -7, delineated on the Sketch (see
Fig. 305), and these may be ta.ken to indicate the year 1570 as the date
of the erection of the building. The carved and moulded gargoyles, with
the round nail-head ornament in the hollow moulding of one of the
windows (Fig. 306), all belong to the style of that period.
T^'^S-
'1} [iVi m
Fig. utOij. — Ci'ai:; Cuflie Tower. Details.
Craig Caffie, or KellechafFe, as it was anciently called, was granted
by Robert the Bruce to John, son of Neil, Earl of Carrick, and
from him the Neilsons who built the castle claimed their descent. In
a panel in the north front above the doorway are the Neilson arms,
cheveron, argent, and or ; in chief two sinister bands couped, and erect
gules, and in base a dagger point downwards. Over this are the initials
I. N. (probably John Neilson). On another shield in the same panel
are the arms of his wife, with the initial M., and over all these has been
an inscription, probal)ly the motto of the family " Hie Regi."
HILLS CASTLE, Kirkcudbrightshire.
Situated about eight miles west from Dumfries, this house stands in a
high and lonely situation, and now forms a portion of a farm-steading.
HILLS CASTLE
391 —
FOUKTII PERIOD
The Litter occupies part of the site of ancient buildings on the north side
of the courtyard. The castle (Fig. 307) consists of a keep in the south-
west corner, with a range of later buildings joined to it on the east. The
courtyard is enclosed on the west side with a high wall, having a striking
and picturesque entrance gateway in the centre (Fig. 308), 6 feet 5 inches
wide, with a small chamber above it, measuring about 8 feet 8 inches long
by 4 feet 3 inches wide. This chamber seems to have been reached by a
stair from the courtyard, and has its entrance door at the north end.
GATE I iWAV
Fic. 307.— Hills Castle. Plan.
The keep measures about 29 feet 10 inches from east to west by about
23 feet 6 inches from north to south, and 45 feet from the ground to the
top of the parapet. The entrance is from the courtyard at the north-east
angle of the tower, and leads directly to the vaulted ground Hoor through
a lobby formed by the projection inwards at the north-east corner of the
wheel -staircase which goes up to the parapet walk. There are three
stories above the vault, with an attic, and a fireplace occurs in each story,
with garde-robes on the first and second. The gargoyles along the parapet
are peculiar and are all alike, being formed of two stones with circular
bands round them in imitation of cannons (Fig. 309). The later addition
adjoining is a plain building with a communication to the keep on the
FOURTH PERIOD
— 392 —
HILLS CASTLE
a.t floor The fo™.ev i. »uch .o.-e ruinou. th... th« latter, »hic„ b in
^'-^Z^rrCZ^.y of i«* «W ,/». 0,»« .uppose. this
FIG. 308.-Hills Castle. View from North-West.
i- -o 1 + TTT This opinion neither
cattle to have been built in the re.gn o R*- ^"j^ ;, ;, U supported
an architeet nor an --ll^'^l^'^YfoXyrZrd. But there does not
either by the style of the structure or by
ISLE TOWEU
— 393
FOURTH PERIOD
EiG. UO'.).— Hills Castle.
Gargoyle.
require to be any speculation on the subject, as we learn from the same
history that in 1527 James Douglas of Drumlanrig
resigned his lands of Hills into the king's hands,
for a new charter in favour of Edward Maxwell
in Breconside. This charter was granted in the
following year, and the present tower was no doubt
erected soon thereafter. This is evident from the
arms over the entrance doorway (Fig. 310V Those
in the upper panel are worn away, but are recognisable as the Maxwell
arms from the crest of the stag rising from
a holly bush. In the compartment beneath
are the Maxwell arms, together with the arms
of the Carsons (three crescents), and the
initials of EdAvard Maxwell and Janet Carson,
his wife. Maxwell died before 1566, so that
the date of the erection of Hills is narrowed
to the thirty-eight years before his death, or
between 1528 and 1566. Several other stones
containing arms are to be seen about the
buildings, one of which exhibits the arms
and initials of Edward Maxwell and his wife
Agnes Maxwell. This proprietor succeeded
in 1593, and was alive in 1643. He doubt-
less erected some of the buildings. Over the
gateway are the arms shown on Fig. 311.
The date
indicates
added.
Plates of all the arms at Hills are to be found in
the privately printed volume on the Maxwells by Sir
William Eraser.
Fio. 310.— Hills Ccistle.
Maxwell Arms.
of
the
are tne arms
1721 is also observable, and probably
time when the existinii' winy- was
Fig. 311.- -Hills Castle.
Arms.
ISLE TOWER, Dumfriesshire.
This simple but picturesque tower (Fig. 312) is situated about five miles
north-west from Dumfries. It stands on the bank of the Nith, which it is
supposed at one time surrounded the tower, from which circumstance it
derives its name. The edifice is quite entire, and being incorporated with
a larger modern house, is still inhabited by the proprietor, J. G. Fergusson,
Esq. It is of very small dimensions, measuring over the walls about 23
feet by 20 feet.
FOURTH PERIOD
394
FOURMERKLAND TOWER
The entrance is on the east side, and is defended by a strong iron
yett having a wooden door in front, and the usual bar-hole in the
masonry. The arrangements connected with these are complicated, and
are minutely described by Di-. Christison in his paper on Iron Yetts.*
Fill. 312. -Isle Tower.
Over the doorway are the Fergusson arms (see Sketch, Fig. 312), with
the initials of John Fergusson (who succeeded to Isle in 1580), and
those of his wife, B. R., and the date of the erection of the tower, 1587.
Adjoining Isle is the farm of Ellisland, occupied for a few years by the
poet Burns, who, it ajDpears, had his residence for a period in the tower.
FOURMERKLAND TOWER, f
Situated in the parish of Holywood, Dumfriesshire, about five miles
north-west from the county town. It is a simple oblong structure (Fig.
313) about 23 feet 6 inches by 19 feet, and about 30 feet in height to the
eaves and 44 feet to the ridge. The tov/er contains four stories, and the
* Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Vol. v. New Series, 18S2-3.
t We are indebted for the drawuigs of this castle to Mr. W. F. Lyon.
POURMERKLAND TOWER
— 395
FOURTH PERIOD
arrangement of the apartments is extremely simple. A wheel-stair in one
corner adjoining the entrance doorway runs from top to bottom, giving
access to the single room which occupies each floor. There are no battle-
ments (Fig. 314), but simple eaves and gables, the roof spanning from
wall to wall. Two round angle turrets, at diagonally opposite corners,
serve to give a castellated air to the simple tower. The ground floor is
vaulted, and feebly lighted by three small loops. Over the doorway, in a
panel, are the Maxwell arms (a saltier, with a holly leaf in chief, a mullet
or star on dexter side, and stag's head on base), with the date above 1590,
GROUND FLOOK
SECOND i-LOOK
Fig. 313.— FourniLTkland Tower. Plans and Section.
on either side of which occur the initials of Robert Maxwell, while I. C.
at the bottom of the panel are those of his wife. Above the panel, and
communicating with the staircase on the first floor, there projects a stone
drain, supposed by Mr. Lyon to be comiected with the defence of the
tower. That it served such a purpose is likely enough, seeing that the
doorway is immediately beneath. A similar stone drain projects over the
doorway in the north curtain of Craigmillar Castle, where, however, its
interior connection and arrangement is now lost.
The large window on the first floor is modern, as is also the dormer
window at the roof, and the upper courses of the masonry of the turrets.
FOURTH PERIOD
396
LAG TOWER
The curious oblong windows in the gables, formed like shot-holes, and
opening into the roof, are uncommon and remarkable features. This is
Fic. 314.— Founnerldand Towor.
an admirable and almost unaltered example of the simple keeps of the
Fourth Period.
LAG TOWER, Dumfriesshire.
This keep stands about three miles from Auld Garth Bridge, the
road winding round green pasture hills. It is situated on a knoll in
the midst of a wilderness of i"ank vegetation and ruins, adjacent to a
farm-steading. The building (Fig. 315), of which the walls remain to
a considerable height, measures 29 feet 9 inches from north to south, by
25 feet 3 inches from east to west. The door is in the middle of the
LAG TOWER
— 39;
FOURTH PERIOD
soutli end, and led directly hy a passage through a wall 5 foot 9 inches
thick into the basement floor, which consists of an apartment 17 feet
11 inches long by 13 feet 6 inches wide. The upper floors, of which
there were three, contained each one room of the same dimensions.
From a passage in the north-east corner of the tower a wheel -stair
3 feet 3 inches wide led to the upper floors. The entrance seems to
have had both an outer door and one which folded into the passage.
Another door also opened into the ground floor, and it is probable
that the foot of the stair had also a separate door. None of the floors
were vaulted. The ground floor is lighted by a small slit 5 inches
wide, and has no other opening. The first floor has a fii'eplace in
Fig. 315.— Liig Tower. Plau.
the north end, and two side lights with pointed arches. The second
floor has a fireplace also in the north end, with a garde-robe alongside,
and similar arched windows towards the west. The corbelling for the
joists of the third floor remains, but most of the walls above this height
are gone. From the north-west corner of the tower a ruined wall runs
diagonally down the hill for about 35 feet, and at the foot of the hill, at
a distance of about 40 feet north-westwards, there are the remains of
ruined outbuildings.
Lag belonged from the beginning of the fifteenth century to the
family of Grierson, the last occupant of the house being Sir Robert
FOURTH PERIOD
398 BONSHAW, ROBGILL, WARDHOUSE
Grierson of Lag, a well-known enemy of the Covenanters, in the latter
half of the sixteenth century.
EDINGHAM CASTLE, Kirkcudbright.
A fragment situated a few miles eastwards from Dalbeattie. It has
been a small structure, measuring about 28 feet from east to west by
20 feet 2 inches (Fig. 316). The entrance is on the east side, and it
leads into a small porch (Fig. 317), from which two doors lead into
^^^A-^?^.
Fio. 31G.— Efliiishain Castl
Frn. 317.— Ediii^ham Castle
the vaulted ground floor, which was probably divided into two apart^
ments. The stair is in the south-east corner, and leads to the first and
second floors.
The history of Edingliam is apparently not well known, at all events
we have not found any reference to it in any of the usual works on
Galloway.
BONSHAW, ROBGILL, AND WARDHOUSE TOWERS,*
Dumfriesshire.
These towers are all situated in the same locality, and within one
mile of each other, being in the parish of Annan, and from four to five
miles distant from the town of that name. They stand in a singularly
beautiful valley, through which runs the Kirtle Water. Of the three
towers, only Bonshaw is anything like perfect, the other two having had
very rough usage.
They have all evidently been built about the same time, and have
* We are indebted for Plans of these towers and for the notes regarding them to
James D. Roberton, Esq., Park Terrace East, Glasgow.
nONSHAW, ROBGILL, WARDHOUSE
399
FOURTH PERIOD
many points of resemblance to each other. They are within a few feet
of the same size, the average dimensions being about 34 feet by 25 feet
(see Figs. 318, 319, 320). Bonshaw is slightly the largest, Bonshaw
and Robgill have each a splayed base, and the entrance doorway and
staircase are alike in both. The mode in which Eobgill was finished at
the top cannot now be positively ascertained, but the other two towers
Fig. 318.- Bonshaw Tower.
were almost identical in the corbelling and parapet, and both have
splayed shot-holes and the same small high window on the ground floor.
In each instance the ground floor only is vaulted.
Bonshaw (Fig. 318) stands on the top of a high bank on the right
side of the Kirtle, which here winds through a deep narrow valley. It
FOURTH PERIOD
400
BONSHAW, ROBGILL, WARDHOUSE
is most picturesquely situated, and stands al)out 90 feet back from the
cliff, with the entrance doorway facing the south. On the edge of the
cliff are the remains of old buildings which probably formed part of the
courtyaixl walls.
Over the moulded entrance doorway (Fig. 319) is the following
inscription : — •*
1^ §%h m^^M'm i'l- iiT -^tirgvSKi
mm
Fid. 319. — Bonshaw Tower. Inscriptions.
The entrance passage in the thickness of the wall is vaulted, and a
pendant from the roof contained the monogram shown in same Fig.
The ground floor (Fig. 320) has four large finely splayed shot-holes,
one on each of the four sides, and on the west side adjoining the dungeon
Fig. 320.— Bonshaw Tower. Plan.
there is a small window high up in the vault
The small dungeon
measures about 8 feet by 5 feet, and is constructed so as to partly
project into the cellar from which it enters — a somewhat peculiar arrange-
* We are indebted to Mr. Armstrong for this illustration.
BONSnAW, ROBGILL, "VVARDnOUSE
401
FOURTH PKRIOD
ment. The height of this floor is 9 feet 8 inches. A good wheel-stair
adjoining the doorway leads to the three upper floors and battlements.
There is only one room on each floor. On the first floor is the hall,
measuring 27 feet by 17 feet 8 inches, and 10 feet 3 inches from the floor
to the floor above. It has been well lighted at the upper or fireplace end,
where there are four windows. The fireplace is large and handsome ; it
projects 2 feet 1 inch from the wall, and is about 7 feet high to the top of
its moulded cornice. On the projecting jambs are two holes as shown on
the Plan. They are about 6 inches square and occur at about 2 feet
from the floor, and were evidently meant for a beam sliding through.
Can they have been for a revolving spit 1 The ambry in the south wall
has an Old Gothic-shaped lintel. A few steps up the staircase from the
hall there is a carefully cut stone sink, with a drain to the outside.
The second floor has four windows, the east one being placed high up
in the wall. This floor contains a small garde-robe and the usual wall
press, but no fii'eplace.
The building is in good oi'der and is well cared for, but unfortunately
about fifty or sixty years ago the old roof, which was covered with large
stone flags, was taken ofi" and the stones used for the floor of a farm-stead-
ing. A common slated roof was put on in place of the old. The water
is carried from the roofs and battlements by cannon-shaped gargoyles.
Bonshaw was built by the Irvings, and is still in the possession of
that family.
RoBGiLL Tower is situated about three-quarters of a mile down the
Kirtle Water from Bonshaw, and has a somewhat similar situation — on
the edge of a clifi" about 40 feet high. The tower (Fig. 321) remained
entire till about ten years ago, when it was wilfully pulled down to the
Fig. 321.— Robgill Tower. Plr.n of Ground Floor.
level of the hall floor in order to allow of a dining-room connected with
the adjoining modern house being built over the ancient basement
floor. The kitchen was on the ground flooi-, where the fine arched
fireplace still survives. The arch is rounded on the edge and projects
some inches from the line of the wall.
2c
FOURTH PERIOD
— 402 —
THIRLSTANE CASTLE
Wardhouse is also situated on the banks of the Kirtle, almost
opposite Robgill, but only on the ground floor (Fig. 322) is the outline
of the tower entire. Some years ago the building fell, through neglect
and decay, but was immediately re-erected as we see it now. The
Fig. 322. — Wardhouse Tower. Plans.
staircase is narrower than m the other towers, and is situated in the
corner opposite the door. The upper floor windows are about 2 feet
square, placed in the centre of arched recesses. Only one side of the
hall fireplace remains ; it has been large and good. This tower has been
a story higher than its neighbours at Bonshaw and Robgill.
THIRLSTANE CASTLE, Selkirkshire.
The ruins of the old tower of the Scotts of Thirlstane stand behind
the modern mansion of Lord Napier and Ettrick, the representative of
the distinguished family of Scott-Napier. It stands in a remote upland
district about seventeen miles south-west of Selkirk. The tower is now
greatly ruined, and presents no architectural features. It has been one
of the ordinary simple Border peles of the Fourth Period. The lintel of
the doorway, which was discovered in the walls of the farm-house, has
now been replaced in its original position ; on it are carved the letters
^)^, " the initials of Sir Robert Scott and his first wife, Mary Cranston,
indicating a date somewhere between 1590 and 1620 " (Craig Brown).
DRYHOPE 403 FOURTH PERIOD
GAMELSCLEUCH,* Selkirkshire.
A ruined simple keep, about two miles from Ettrick, built towards
the end of tLe sixteenth century by Symon Scott, called " Simon of the
h'lihuii , 1
Fig. 323.— Gamelscleueh. Plan.
Spear." It is now reduced to walls little more than one story high
(Fig. 323).
DRYHOPE, t Selkirkshire.
A tower of one of the branches of the Scotts. It stands near the
lower end of St. Mary's Loch. In 1592 Scott of Goldielands was com-
missioned to demolish it, owing to the owner having been " art and part
in the late treasonable attempt against the king at Falkland." The
tower, however, still stands, though dismantled and ruinous. It is a
Jn.ltl.tli li 1 1
Fig. 324, — Dryliope. Plan.
simple keep (Fig. 324), measuring 33 feet by 22 feet, with walls about 4
feet thick. It was four stories in height (Fig. 325), and the disposition
of the apartments was the ordinary one. All architectural features have
now vanished, and even the corner stones are to a great extent removed.
Dry hope is celebrated in song as the home of the " Flower of Yarrow."
Mr. Craig Brown mentions that " built in the wall of the new onstead is
* The Sketch is by Mr. W. Anderson. t Idem.
FOURTH PKRIOD
404 —
BLACKHOUSE CASTLE
Pig. 325.— Dryliope. View from North-East.
an elegantly sculptured tablet from the old tower, bearing the initials
P. S. • M. S., for Philip and Mary Scott, parents of the ' Flower of
Yarrow.' "
BLACKHOUSE CASTLE,* Selkirkshire.
A ruinous tower on the left bank of the Douglas Burn, two and a half
miles fi'om the north-east end of St. Mary's Loch. It has been a simple
Fif!. 336. — Blackhouse Castle.
The Sketch is by Mr. W. Anderson.
KIRKHOPE TOWER — 405 — FOURTH PERIOD
oblong pele witli a round tower at one angle adjoining the door and
containing the staircase. It is supposed to be an old home of the
Douglases, and the scene of the Douglas tragedy. The walls are now
reduced to one story in height (Fig. 326), but the form of the plan bears
evidence of its being probably a Fourth Period structure.
KIRKHOPE TOWER, Selkirkshire.
This lonely Border tower is situated about seven miles west from
Selkirk, on a green hillside overlooking the vale of Ettrick, It stands
on very rough uneven ground, sloping southwards from the entrance front
down to the valley, while behind the tower the hills rise suddenly and
steeply. On the east a deep rs^ine containing a brawling stream cuts off
the tower from easy access on that side. The building is in a fair state
of preservation, having evidently been inliabited till within recent years,
but it is now getting into a state of decay. It is of small size, but like
all these old towers it has a solid and imposing appearance. The struc-
ture (Fig. 327) is nearly square, its external measurements being 27 feet
4 inches from east to west by 22 feet 8 inches from north to south, and it
is four stories high, with an attic (Figs. 327 and 328).
The ground floor is vaulted, and being provided with only one small
zig-zag slit, it is almost dark. The entrance door to the ground floor is
on the south side, and from the ingoing of the door a straight stair leads
to the first flooi'. Immediately over this doorway, now built up, was the
pi-incipal entrance, which was placed on the first floor, in order that, in
case of danger or m the absence of the head of the house, the lower
door could be permanently secured, and access gained by a short ladder
to the upper door. The stair to the upper floors is in the corner, necessi-
tating, as frequently happens, that the principal room had to be traversed
before reaching it. This stair was of timber, and is now completely decayed.
There are no windows in either the east or west ends, except small ones
between 30 and 40 feet above the ground, and on the north side there are
only the small slit on the ground floor, and a staircase "bole" at a con-
siderable height above the ground. Security against a Border raid has
thus evidently been a main object in designing the structure, and more
than once has this little tower resisted attacks with both fire and sword.
The arrangements of the battlements are of a late type, being provided
with roofed-in shelters for the sentries instead of the usual coi'belled angle
turrets. The corbels supporting the parapet are of the rudest kind, being
merely square undressed blocks. The masonry, likewise, is composed in a
great measure of stones such as are found lying on the slopes around.
There has been a barmkin in front, not seemingly in immediate con-
nection with the tower, but entirely commanded and overlooked by it.
It is situated about 30 yards to the south, and measures some 30 yards
FOURTH PERIOD
— 406
KIRKHOPE TOWER
from east to west by 15 yards from north to south. This was evidently a
place of security for cattle. The walls were of considerable thickness, but
are now a mass of ruins.
There is no evidence of the date of the erection of Kirkhope, but it
FIRST FLOOR
GROU(ND FLOOR Jl.
Fig. 327.— Kirkhope Tov/er. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor, and View from South- West.
was doubtless built after the year 1535, when an Act of Parliament on
the building of Border peles and barmkins was framed. The Act requires
that the proprietor "sail big ane sufficient barmkyn upon his heritage and
landis, of stane and lyme, contenand thre score futis of the square, ane
KIRKHOPE TOWER
407 —
FOURTH PERIOD
eln thick, and six elues heicht for the resett and defense of him, his
tennents, and his gudis in troublous tyme, with ane toure in the samen
for himself gif he thinks it expedient. And all ather landit men of
smaller rent and reuenew big pelis and greit strenthis as they plese for
saifing of thamselfs, &c. ; and that all the saidis strenthis, barmkynis, and
pelis be biggit and completit within twa yeris under pane." But, as
obsei'ved in connection with Smailholm Tower,* it is doubtful if this
-^';%r<i
'■^^^f^^^.
\
Pio. 32S.— Kirkliope Tower. View from North-East.
Act was ever passed. The style of the work clearly belongs to the Fourth
Period.
During the terrible devastation of the Borders in 1543 the gates of
Kirkhope were burned, and the cattle and sheep driven off. Mr. Craig
Brown, in his History of Selkirkshire (p. 353), mentions that "previous to
its acquisition in the beginning of last centui-y by the Duchess of Buccleuch
(Monmouth's widow), Kirkhope belonged to the Scotts of Harden, one of
the wealthiest families on the Scottish border. The tower itself was
frequently occupied by the laird's eldest son, and there is reason to believe
* Vol. I. p. 137.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 408
GARWOOD TOWER
that ' Auld AVat ' himself, while he was yet ' Young Wat,' lived here when
he wooed and won the 'Flower of YaiTow.'" Of this redoubtable hero
and the beautiful Mary Scott of Dryhope Tower, Border ballads and
songs are full. Their marriage took place in 1576, and in a note to the
ballad of "Jamie Telfer," Sir Walter Scott says that the marriage contract
still exists " in the charter-room of Mr. Scott of Harden."
GARWOOD TOWER,* Selkirkshire.
A keep situated about three or four miles south-west from Selkirk,
on the edge of a steep bank sloping down to the valley of the Ettrick, not
Fig. 329.— Oakwood Tower. Plans, Section, and North Elevation.
* We are indebted for the Second and Third Floor Plans, the Section, and measured
Elevation of this tower to Mr. William Anderson.
OAKWOOD TOWER
— 409
FOURTH PERIOD
far from the meeting of Ettrick and Yarrow, and within a few miles of
royal Newark and the lonely Tower of Kirkhope, and in the very centre
of the Border country made famous by Sir Walter Scott and the
Ettrick Shepherd.
Oakwood Tower is in a good state of preservation, although it has
been considei-ably altered and repaired. It now forms a portion of a
farm-steading, the upper floors being used as a granary, and a wide
opening for backing carts into, for the purpose of loading and unloading
grain, has been cut out of the east end. The tower is oblong on Plan
(Fig. 329), measuring about 38 feet from east to west by about 23 feet
6 inches from north to south, and about 49 feet in height to the ridge of
the roof. It contains a vaulted ground floor, with two stories and attics
above. The entrance doorway (Figs. 330 and 331), situated near the centre
Fli;. 330. — Oakttuod Tuwui'. Kiitnuii:^ Uuuiwuy.
of the north side, is round-headed, wdth a bold flowing moulding. An
inner door opens from the entrance passage into the ground floor, and from
this passage a wheel-staircase in the north-west angle leads to the various
upper floors. A peculiarity of this staircase is the width of the newel,
which measures from 2 to 3 feet in diameter, and is built with small
stones and mortar. The small chamber on the ground floor adjoining
the staircase has now no entrance from the interior. It may have
entered formerly either from under the stair or by a trap from the floor
above. The door shown to the outside is modern. The hall, on the first
floor, is about 19 feet 6 inches long by 16 feet wide. It contains a very
fine fireplace in the north wall (Fig. 332). The opening measures 7 feet
2 inches wide by 5 feet to top of arch, which is composed of three stones
jointed in the method shown. Some masons' marks are conspicuous on
FOURTH PERIOD
— 410 —
OAKWOOD TOWER
these stones The roof is entirely modem, and so are the intermediate
llenfloors. The square turrets '^ ^^ ^^^"^ ^^^S^Z
(Fig. 333) are supported on »"— ^ ^^^^^ f .^.t 'r °^ iT^t
ano-le being enriched with nail-head, dog-tootn, ana
no. 3al.-Oakwood Tower. View from Korth-East.
.hiie in that at the son^-^ ^t .Jt! Jl^^^ t ^ lir:
enriched turrets, without any parapet, are indicative o£ a l.rte date.
OAKWOOD TOWER
411 —
FOURTH PERIOD
At Oakwood all the dressed and moulded work, corners, and crow-
steps are of carefully hewn sandstone, and the general Availing is of
rubble.
From Mr. Craig Brown's work on Selkirkshire we find that Oakwood
was from the beginning of the sixteenth century in the possession of a
family of the name of Scott. In 1541 a royal charter was granted to
William Scott for Oakwood and South Bowhill, in the neighbourhood,
"with the condition of erecting a house and policy," and supplying
armed horsemen to serve in the king's wars. The tower does not seem
to have been built till about sixty years after this, as there occurs over
Fig. 332.— Oakwood Tower. Fircplaoo in Hall.
one of the windows on the second floor of" the south front a carved stone
(Fig. 335) with the initials R. S. (Robert Scott) and L. M. — probably
those of his wife, and believed to be a daughter of the house of Murray —
with the date " Ano 1602." It is doubtful whether this stone was originally
intended for its present position. It seems to be wrought for the key-
stone of a moulded arch, and has been placed where it now is without
any special fitness for its position. It can, therefore, scarcely be regarded
as determining the date of the castle ; but if brought from an older build-
ing, it would indicate that the tower is of a later date than that on the
stone, a view which would coincide with the style of the structure. The
FOURTH PERIOD
— 412 —
OAKWOOD TOWER
tympanum of the dormer above the carved stone just referred to contains
three fleurs-de-lys (Fig. 336), while the lintel of one of the windows of the
Fig. 333.— Oakwood Tower. View from South -West.
east elevation and some of the chimney -heads are carved with dog-
tooth ornaments (see Fig. 333).
GOLDIELANDS TOWER
413 —
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 336.— Oakwood Tower. Diirmer.
GOLDIELANDS TOWER, Roxburghshire.
A simple oblong tower, standing on a heiglit above the right bank of
the Teviot, aljout two miles south from Hawick. It faces the valley of
the Borthwick Water, and commands the access to it. The tower ( Fig.
Fig. 337. -Goklielaiiils Tower. Plan of First Floor.
337) measures 34 feet by 24 feet, with walls above 4 feet in thickness.
The entrance doorway is on the ground level, and the turnpike staircase
adjoins it, and the partition enclosing it juts out into the interior. The
ground floor contains the usual vaulted cellar, and on the first floor is
FOURTH PERIOD
— 414 —
BARNS TOWER
the hall, 19 feet 6 inches by 15 feet, with a small room in the recess
formed by the projection of the staircase. The elevations present no
features of interest, the parapet being gon(i.
Goldielands was the residence of one of the offshoots from the Scotts
of Branxhohn towards the end of the sixteenth century, and is frequently
mentioned in Border song. The building is probably of about the above
date.
BARNS TOWER, Peeblesshire.
A well-preserved tower situated close to the south bank of the Tweed,
about two and a half miles above Peel^les. It forms a rectangular keep
TH I RD FLOOR
FOURTH FLOOR
GROUND FLOOR
-<-M-
SECTION
Piu. 338. — Barns Tower. Plan.s, Section, &;c.
BARNS TOWER
415
FOURTH PKRIOD
(Fig. 338), 28 feet by 20 feet, and is three stories in height, with an attic.
The ground floor is vaulted. The building has been considerably altered,
and the roof and floors are modern. The entrance doorway (Fig. 339) on
the ground floor still retains its grated iron yett, which Dr. Christison
regards as probably the oldest in Scotland. The tower was originally on
a level site, but the ground around it has been excavated, so that it now
stands on an isolated knoll. There used to be a tripod beacon light
lying in the attic, which has now found a place in the museum at
Peebles. Opposite the entrance door another door leads into the vaulted
basement, and a stair in the thickness of the north-west wall conducts
to the hall on the tirst floor, which is 17 feet 6 inches by 14 feet. The
stair from the first to the second floor has been entirely altered, the
Fig. 339.— Barns Tower. View from South-West.
remains of the old stair being still visible. There was probably a
garde-robe where the present stair now is, as there is an opening or shoot
in the outer wall just below that point.
The upper part of the tower is entirely altered, a modern roof with
gables being substituted for the original parapet. The chimney on the
west gable is a false one, as there are no fireplaces in that wall. The
building is rough cast, and much overgrown with ivy.
This tower belonged in the end of the sixteenth century to the repre-
sentative of the ancient family of the Burnets of Burnetland, who estab-
lished themselves in the Manor district in the fourteenth century. On the
lintel of the window above the doorway are carved the initials W. B. and
M. S. (see Fig. 338) for William Burnet and his wife, Margaret Stewart of
FOURTH PERIOD
416 —
CASTLEHILL
Traquah'. This laird, who was well known by the nickname of "Howlet,"
"was renowned (1591) for his sagacity in conducting midnight expedi-
tions."* He was also a staunch cavalier, and appeared at the Weapon
Show of 1627 "well hoi^sed, with a bufF-coat and steel bonnet, lance
and sword, accompanied with seven horsemen."!
The date 1498 is cut in the lintel of the entrance door, l)ut this
inscription appears to be of comparatively modern origin.
CASTLEHILL, Peeblesshire.
A ruin (Fig. 340) situated about two and a half miles up the valley
of the Manor, a southern tributary of the Tweed, and about four and a
half miles from Peebles. This was probably a seat of the Burnets of
Barns ; at least it belonged to them from 1716 to 1760.
The tower, which has been a rectangular block 37 feet 6 inches by
39 feet 6 inches (Fig. 341), stands on a rocky knoll between the public
road and the river. It is a much stronger building than Barns, the
walls beinsf about 7 feet thick. There are two vaulted cellars on the
Fig. 340.— Castlchill.
ground level with the rock for their floor. The entrance is on the side
next the river, and has had an iron yett and stair in the thickness of the
wall very similar to those of Barns. Of the first floor there only remains
the west and part of the south wall. This floor has also been vaulted,
and contains the remains of a wheel-stair at the north-west corner (see
Fig. 341). There is an arched recess in the wall in the basement under
this stair, and a similar recess occurs at Barns in the same position. A
new iron yett has recently been put on in imitation of that at Barns,
* Chambers's Peeblesshire, p. 400. t Ibid. p. 400.
POSSO CASTLE
— 417
FOURTH PERIOD
, , ,u ^^iin 1111 :ii ^\\\i\ii
/ /
/ ■
''//III
/
y.^
\ \ .- (
GROUND FLOOR PLAN
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
< \- ^^
^
"liir'
l!!
mw
FIRST FLOOR PLAN
Fig. 341.— Castlehill. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor.
and the top of tlie vault and some of the walls have been covered with
cement foi* preservation.
POSSO CASTLE, Peeblesshire.
The ancient seat of the Bairds, who were succeeded in the sixteenth
century by the Naesmyths.
It is now a ruin, situated about four miles up the Manor valley, and
six miles from Peebles. A few fragments of walls are all that remain.
2 D
FOURTH PERIOD
418 —
NETHER HORSBURGH CASTLE
It seems to have been an L-sliaped courtyard 7G feet by 68 feet, with
a small keep at the northern end 30 feet 6 inches by 24 feet 6 inches,
the walls of which were 4 feet 3 inches thick.
WRAE CASTLE.
A tower situated on the western side of the Tweed, about ten miles
above Peebles, and now consists of only a fragment of considerable lieiglit
of one angle of the building.
It belonged to a branch of the Tweedies.
HORSBURGH CASTLE, Peeblesshire.
The seat of the Horsburghs, who were for generations sheriff-deputes
of Peeblesshire, and are considered the oldest territorial family in the
country*
The ruins of the castle are situated on a remarkably prominent knoll
two miles below Peebles, from which it overlooks the Tweed, and com-
mands a view of Peebles, and Neidpath in the distance. It forms a
prominent object in the landscape, but on closer examination consists
of only a few fragments of walls about 4 feet thick, with traces of stairs
at two places. Some years ago the walls, which are of whinstone, were
patched up in a rather injudicious manner.
NETHER HORSBURGH CASTLE, Peeblesshire.
Another iniin erected by the same family as the preceding! (Fig. 342).
Situated beside a mountain stream which flows into the Tweed about three
Fig. 34'2.-NetlierHur.slmr.!,'li Castle. View.
Chambers's Peeblesshire, p. 128. t Ihld. p. 374.
IIIRENDEAN CASTLE
419
FOURTH PERIOD
miles below Peebles, and on its nortlieiii side. It is a rectangular keep 32
feet by 26 feet, with walls 4 feet 3 inclies thick, but is in a state of complete
ruin. The liasement has been vaulted, and the door seems to have been
on the northern side. Some of the walls are three stories high, but are
very fragmentary. There are traces of a stair at the north-east corner, but
the east wall is entirely gone. The structure is all built with whinstone.
HUTCHEONFJELD TOWER, Peeblesshire.
The i^uins of a small vaulted tower on the hill face overlooking
Eddlestone Water, about three quarters of a mile north from Peebles.
Nothing now remains but a vault.
HIRENDEAN CASTLE, Midlothian.
This castle stands about five miles south from Temple. It has a
lonely situation (Fig. 343) at the base of the Moorfoot Hills, which tower
behind the castle in picturesque groups ranging in height from about
1700 to 2000 feet.
Pig. 343.— Hireiidean Castle. View from North.
As will be seen from the Sketch very little of the castle remains —
merely a corner — and no description of it can be given further than that
it has been a small keep, the foundations of which are probably buried
beneath the green-covered mounds seen in the View. While thus the
FOURTH PERIOD
— 420
MINTO TOWER
outward aspect of the castle has ahiiost entirely disappeared, its history
has likewise vanished. In answer to a question on this subject in the
Scotsman of 13th August 1889, it was stated that the lands of Moorfoot,
or Morthuweit, on which Hirendean stands, " were granted by David i.
to the Abbey of Newbattle about the middle of the twelfth century.
The deed of gift is contained in a charter, which is to be found in the
Book of Newhattle (Bannatyne Club Publications)." At the Reformation
these lands, along with the other valuable properties belonging to the
Abbey, fell into the possession of Mark Ker, and it is supposed that the
castle was built by one of his family.
MINTO TOWER,* or FAT LIPS TOWER, Roxburghshire.
This tower stands on a rui^ired situation on the summit of the well-
known Minto Craigs.
Fig. 344. — Miuto Tower. East and North Elevations.
The upper part of the building above the corbelling (Fig. 344) has
lately been restored, but all beneath is old. As it now stands it
presents a favourable specimen of a Border keep, having the usual
* For the drawings of this keep we are indebted to Mr. William Anderson,
architect, Galashiels,
TIMPENDEAN CASTLE
421 —
FOURTH PERIOD
vaulted ground floor (Fig. 345), comprising a lower story, with an upper
loft in the vault, and three stories above, the floors of wliich are of timber
supported on stone corbels, the whole being served with a narrow wheel-
stair in the south-east corner, which commences on the ground level just
inside the doorway.
Fig. 3-15.— Minto Tower. Plans and Section.
The building measures over the walls 32 feet 6 inches by 26 feet
9 inches, and contains one room only on each floor, and has no mural
closets. The three upper floors contain each a fireplace. They are well
lighted, the first floor liaving a look-out all round from windows provided
with stone seats.
Fat Lips is supposed to have been a keep of the TurnbuUs.
TIMPENDEAN CASTLE, Roxburghshire.
A simple tower, which stands on rising ground between the valley
of the Teviot and that of the Jed, about three miles north-west of
FOURTH PERIOD
422
TIMPENDEAN CASTLE
Jedburgh. From a curve cut out of the south-west angle of the walls
(Fig. 346) it would appear that additions were at one time made or
contemplated on the west side of the tower, and some " tusks " or bond
stones projecting westwards from the north and south walls (Fig. 347)
seem to point to the same conclusion. But these additions, if they ever
existed, have been completely removed and the old tower again stands
alone, and almost in its original form, except where ruined. The entrance
door in the east wall, and probably the fix'eplace in the basement, were, how-
ever, alterations made at the time of the proposed additions. The tower is
29 feet from east to west, by 24 feet from north to south, and has walls
about 4 feet in thickness. The original entrance doorway is in the north
side. It is a plain circular-headed opening with outer rebate for an iron
yett, and inner rebate for a wooden door. The entrance to the cellar
in the basement, which is vaulted, is opposite the entrance door, and the
entrance passage gives access on the left to the circular staircase in the
GROUND
FLOOR
Pig. 340.— Tiiupeiidean Castle. Plaus of Ground Floor and First Floor.
north-east angle. The walls of the basement are pierced with shot-
holes. The first floor contained the hall (17 feet by 16 feet 3 inches)
and a small apartment or recess, 9 feet by 5 feet 4 inches at the east
side. The fireplace is 8 feet 6 inches wide. The hall has been lighted
by windows in the north and south walls. A stone sink is inserted in
the wall of the staircase nearly on the level of the hall floor. There
have been two floors above the hall, but they are now greatly destroyed,
the side walls being almost entirely broken away.
A small stream flows past the south side, and, in a slight ravine.
CORBETT CASTLK
423
FOURTH PERIOD
along the east side of the tower. Ai/tificial ditches arc still traceable
along the south and west sides, as many as three successive mounds and
hollows being observable to the west. The ground rises to the south,
and there the ditch seems to have been dammed up and filled with water.
How far these ditches have been intended for defence, or whether they
1.
Fig. y47. — Tiiiipendoau Oastio. View Iroia North-West.
have formed part of a Dutch garden connected with the enlarged mansion,
it is difficult to determine. They are much better preserved than earth-
works of that kind generally are.
Timpendean formed part of the territory of Bonjedworth, and lemained
in the family of Douglas from 1497 till the present century.*
CORBETT CASTLE, Roxburghshire.
A small tower (Fig. 348) standing on the top of the steep bank which
bounds the valley of the Kale Water, about one mile south from Morebattle.
The tower (Fig. 349) measures only 22 feet 2 inches by 16 feet 4 inches
externally. It has contained a single small apartment on each floor, but the
* Jeffrey's Boxburghtihire, Vol. ii. p. 37-4.
FOURTH PERIOD
424 —
CORBETT CASTLE
building having been partly reconstructed and modernised internally, the
original arrangements cannot now be determined. The entrance doorway,
which is original, is on the ground floor. It contains a rebate on the outside
for the iron yett, as well as one on the inside for the wooden door. The
lintel of this doorway (Fig. 350) is remarkable from its containing the
sacred monogram I. H. S., together with the initials of the founder and
O^.-
^..UU^-^'i'^^-^
^<^t=^^
H\(
Fig. 34S. - Corbett Castle. V'iew from Soutli-West.
those of his wife, with the date. This property, like the adjoining
Gateshaw, may possibly have been of old a possession of the Abbey of
Melrose, which connection may be intended to be marked in this way.
Corbett doubtless belonged at an early date to a proprietor of the same
name, " one of the oldest surnames in Scotland."* It afterwards passed
into the hands of the Kers, and from the initials on the lintel the present
* Jefifrey's RoxburgJishire, Vol. ii. p. 307.
COWDENKNOWES
— 425
FOURTH PERIOD
structure was evidently Ijuilt by one of that family. The walls are
well piorce<l with shot-holes for defence. The upper part of the tower
Fig. 349. —Corbett Castle. Plan.
has been reconstructed and the parapet removed, so that the Sketch
gives but an imperfect representation of its original appearance.
Fig. 350.— Corbett Castle. Monogram, Arc, on Lintel of Doorway.
COWDENKNOWES, Berwickshire.
A tower (Fig. 351), now connected with a modern mansion, on the east
bank of the Leader, about one mile south from Earlston. It was formerly
the seat of the ancestors of the Earls of Home.
The tower measures 22 feet by 18 feet, and contained rooms 14 feet by
11 feet. It has been a rather ornate and characteristic example of the
Border pele of the seventeenth century. The style of corbelling and con-
struction of the parapet show that the structure is late. It seems further
to have been altered at a subsequent time, when the embrasures have
been changed and the gables and chimneys added.
The archway in the east side, and the ornamental work I'ound it now
forming the entrance to the mansion-house on the west, are entirely
FOURTH PERIOD
426
CORSBIE CASTLE
Fig. 351. — Cowdeuknowes. View from Nortli-East.
modern. The ground floor of the tower thus serves as the entrance hall
to the mansion.
CORSBIE CASTLE, Beewickshirk.
A keep (Fig. 352), situated in a bog near the source of the Water of
Eden, and about four miles north from Earlston. It consists of the ruins
of two sides of a small tower with rounded angles, and has been substan-
tially built with coursed ashlar and rubble between, as shown in Fig. 353.
CORSBIE CASTLE
— 427
FOURTH PERIOD
As the remaining walls stand on a high position they form a conspicuous
object in the view for some distance around.
Fic. 35:2.— Corsbie Caslli;
Plan.
Corsbie appears to have belonged at an early period to the Cranstouns
of Oxenford, and in 1635 it was still in their possession.
^^^^'^^^i'^.
Fig. 353.—Corsliie Castle. View.
Ihe castle is stated in the New Statistical Account to have been built
in the reign of James ii., but the present structure appears to be of a
later date.
FOURTH PERIOD
428
CRANSHAWS CASTLE
CRANSHAW8 CASTLE, Berwickshire.
A well-preserved pele tower of the Fourtli Period, standing amongst
the Lammermoors, about nine miles north-west from Dunse. It measures
X- I X
FOUf^TH FLOOR
FIRST FLOOR
GROUND FLOOR
SECOND FLOOR
Fig. 354.— Crausliaws (Jastle. Plans.
(Fig. 354) 40 feet by 26 feet, and is rounded on the angles. The original
entrance doorway has been on the west side adjoining the wheel-stair,
Fig. 355.— Cransliaws Castle. View froni Noith-Wcst.
CRA.NSIIAWS CASTLE
— 429
FOURTH PKRIOD
which runs to the roof. The pele is five stories high (Fig. 3.56), and has
ori-inally contained the cellars or stores on the ground floor (which is not
vaulted). Above this is an entresol, which may have been the kitchen.
SOUTH FbEVATIOM
WEST ELEVATION
Fig. 356.— Cranshaws Castle. Elevations, Section, &c.
The hall occupied the second floor, and bedrooms the two upper
stories. . . .i
From the way in which the staircase wall breaks into the interKjr, tlie
FOURTH PERIOD
430 —
CARBERRY TOWER
small space adjoining naturally formed a separate room on each floor. The
interior is now cut up with partitions, as shown.
The parapet (Fig. 355), which is 46 feet from the ground, is well
preserved. It has a simple row of corbels and bold gargoyles, but is
without angle bartizans. The parapet walk is clear all round for defence.
Cranshaws formerly belonged to the Douglases, and is now the seat of
Lord Aberdour, the eldest son of the Earl of Morton.
The panel with arms (shown on Fig. 356), is in the interior of the
church of Cranshaws. It is said that James vi., when attending the
service there, observed that the clergyman omitted to pray for the Royal
Family. The king therefore sent this carving of the royal arms that it
might be erected in face of the pulpit, so as to remind the clergyman of
his duty to the Crown.
GAMMELSHIEL CASTLE, Haddingtonshire.
This ruin is situated in a secluded glen beside a small burn, near the
source of the Whitadder Water (Stenton Parish), and consists of a frag-
FiG. 357.— Gammelsliiel Castle. View.
ment of the east end of a small keep, w4th walls (Fig. 357) 4 feet 6 inches
thick. The ground floor has been vaulted, and the building is entirely
of whinstone.
CAEBERRY TOWER, Midlothian.
Situated on the slope of the famous Carberry Hill, overlooking the
plain by which was the principal approach to Edinburgh from the east.
The ancient keep (Fig. 358) now forms the vestibule to a spacious
CARBERRY TOWER
— 431
FOURTH PERIOD
modern mansion which is attached to it. The poi-ch and enhirgod Tudor
windows shown in View (Fig. 359) are modern ; so likewise is the top of
the staircase turret, while the interior has Leen entirely renovated. Tlie
Fia. 358.— Carberry Tower. Plan of Upper Floor.
tower is one o£ I'emarkahle strength. It is twice vaulted — first, over the
ground floor, and second, beneath the flat roof, which was evidently con-
structed for guns. The parapet is, as will be seen, of great thickness, and
;« -4^:11/ ^/#IE32Q;'
^aliiliiiii li^^^^
Fig. 359.— Carberry Tower. View from Norlh-East.
has broad sloping copings of unusual size. At one corner a square stone
stand is prepared for an iron beacon (see Fig. 359), and in the parapet
FOURTH PERIOD
— 432 —
CRAMOND TOWER
wall will be observed two widely-splayed gun-holes. The corbelling course
beneath the parapet (Fig. 360) is very peculiar, and closely resembles that
of the[ palace in Stirling Castle. The
ornament consists of a succession of
cherubs with heads and outstretched
wings, instead of the usual projecting
corbels.
In the year 1547 Carberry became
the property of Hugh Rigg, advocate.
He was a man of importance in his
day, and probably bviilt the tower.
Accoi'ding to Small's Castles of the
Lotliians, Carberry afterwards became
the propei'ty of Sir Robert Dickson,
who was proprietor of the barony of
Inveresk. It remained in his family
till about the beginning of last cen-
tury, when it was sold to the Duchess
of Monmouth. It was afterwards
acquired by John Fullerton, Esq., whose niece married William, son of
the tenth Lord Elphinstone ; and since 1802 it has been the residence of
the Elphinstone fanaily.
This tower is remarkable as indicating the endeavours made after the
introduction of firearms to render the old keep suitable for the use
of artillery. A similar parapet, with level platform for working guns,
may be seen on the top of the high enclosing wall at Tantallon. It
will be observed that the accommodation of this keep, notwithstanding
the expenditure on the defences, is extremely limited, consisting of a
single small apartment, about 20 feet by 16 feet, on each floor. The walls
are 7 feet in thickness.
Fig. 3G0.— Carberry Tower.
Corbelling Course.
CRAMOND TOWER, Midlothian.
This remarkable tower is situated in the private grounds of Cramond
House, anciently called the barony of Nether Cramond, adjoining the
village of the same name, and overlooks the Frith of Forth, near the
mouth of the River Almond. It is in an unfortunate condition, being
entirely crowned with ivy (Fig. 361), which has got such a hold of it (the
branches in some places going through the walls) as to greatly imperil its
safety ; while on the top, in consequence of the roots of saplings pene-
trating the walls and arch, the masonry is becoming dangerous. This is
greatly to be regretted, as the structure is somewhat unique, and might
be easily preserved from decay. This tower is probably a part of what
CRAMOND TOWER
— 433 —
FOURTH PERIOD
was once the palace of the Bishops of Dunkeld. It is of small dimensions
(Fig, 362), measuring 25 feet by 22 feet over the walls, so that the vaulted
basement forms an apartment only 15 feet 6 inches by 12 feet, and 12 feet
high to the crown of the arch (see Sections, Fig. 362). The total height
of the tower as it stands is about 46 feet 6 inches, but it has lost the cape-
house, which once doubtless existed above the circular staircase turret,
which projects beyond the face of the south wall at the east comer, and
^-v-^**^ -Ht^J
Fig. 301. — Cramond Tower. View from South-West.
continues to the top of the tower. This stair is entire, but is almost
choked up at the top with the ivy and young trees above referred to.
The entrance is in the centre of the south front by a semi-circular
arch, on the outside of which a square recess is formed, as if for
an iron yett or a drawbridge (Fig. 363). A passage leads straight
thi'ough the wall, 5 feet 3 inches thick, to the ground floor, which
is down five steps. In the north-west corner of this apartment there
is a slight square recess in the wall, arched over on top, which has
had projecting jambs checked for a door, but these are now reduced
2 E
FOURTH PERIOD
434
CRAMOND TOWER
to the foundation stones. A door in the entrance passage on the right
hand leads to the stair. The first and second floors are constructed
of timber, and are entire, although very frail. The first floor has a wide
recess in the south wall, which is thus rendered very thin, the object
evidently being to gain space. The wall above is restored to its original
thickness, as shown on Section looking east, and, instead of being arched
over in stone, is supported on timber beams. The fireplace is interesting,
GROUND FLOOR
SECOND FLOOR
Fig. 362.--Cramond Tower. Plans aiid Sections.
and is shown on the Section looking west. It has projecting jambs, with
corbels at the level of the lintel, having a hood above of slight projection.
There are two wall presses in the room with their original doors, one of
which, about 4 feet 10 inches high, divided into six panels, is shown on
Section looking east ; adjoining this pi^ess in the east wall there appears
to have been a high entrance door, now partly built up. This room is
feebly lighted, having only a mere "bole" alongside the fireplace and a
small window in the recess of the south wall.
CRAMONn TOWER
435
FOURTH PERIOD
The upper floors are of simiLar dimensions, but without tlie recess.
The second floor room has a fireplace resembling that of the first floor,
having an arched opening with a " bole " or small window opening into
the back of it. This " bole " and a window in the south wall, furnished
with stone seats, give all the light on this floor. A press in the north
wall still retains its old door. Adjoining the entrance there is a garde-robe
in the thickness of the east wall.
Fig. 363. -Cramoiid Tower. Entrance Doorway.
The upper floor, which is vaulted, doubtless in oi'der to carry a stone
roof, contains only one window in the east wall, with no other opening or
recess of any kind.
This tower has a considerable resemblance to the remaining tower at
Mugdock, and is of about the same size in width and height (see page 308).
It is therefore not improbable that, like the one at Mugdock, this is a
tower built on the walls of defence of a large castle, and that the high door
in the first floor may have opened on to the parapet.
Almost no details remain to enable the date of the tower to be fixed ;
but so far as can be gathered from the existing features, it seems to be of
the earlier part of the sixteenth century.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 436
LAMINGTON TOWER
An interesting sun-dial, which will be illustrated in Vol. iv. along
with the other Scottish sun-dials, stands in the grounds adjoining the
tower.
The Bishops of Dunkeld, according to Sir James Dalrymple, pos-
sessed part of the lands of "Karramond," called "Bishops Cramond,"
in the time of William the Lion (1165 to 1214), and two Bishops
of Dunkeld died here — the second Bishop in 1173, and the seventh
Bishop in 1214. In 1409, according to Wood's History of the Parish,
the then Bishop of Dunkeld made " an exchange of his lands of Cammo,
in this parish, for the tower of Cramond." The indenture is dated at
Auclitertool. The Bishop, with consent of the Dean and Chapter of Dun-
keld, granted to "John de Nudre his lands of Cambow." "In exchange,
Nudre granted and resigned for ever to the said Bishop, and his successors
in the See of Dunkeld, his Tower, situated within the Church town of
Cramond, and all the lands," &c., &c. Mr. Wood reconciles the apparent
contradiction in the above dates "by showing that the Bishops had property
at Cramond previous to the excambion." Mr. Wood considered this to
be the "Tower" referred to in the foregoing transaction, and mentions
(writing in 1794) that "at the W. end was a chapel, now entirely
demolished, and the edilice appears to have extended to the N. and E."
LAMINGTON TOWER, Lanarkshire.
This fragment of the old keep of the lairds of Lamington, beautifully
situated on the Clyde, not far from Lamington Station, is interesting from
its supposed connection with Marion Bradfute, the wife of William
Wallace. Marion was the only child of the proprietor of Lamington, and
was carried off to Lanark by
Hazelrig, who had been appointed by
Fig. 364. — Lamington Tower. Plan.
Edward I. governor of that town and its castle. Here she became the
wife of Wallace, and on one occasion she saved him from the English
soldiers by allowing him to escape by the back garden. For this natural
act of kindness she was bai-barously slain by his pui'suers — a deed of
LAMINGTON TOWKU
437
FOUUTil I'KIUOD
cruelty which was afterwards well avenged by Wallace when he attacked
and took the castle.
The Baillies of Lamington were descended from Marion Bradfute, and
are now represented by the present noble proprietor, Lord Laiuington.*
The existing Tower of Lamington, however, does not belong to the
age of Wallace. It has evidently been a simple keep of the Fourth
Period, but is now reduced (Fig. 364) to portions of the west and south
walls and the foundations of the north and east walls. It stands on a
gravel mound which i-ises above the level " haugh " of the river.
The tower measures 38 feet 9 inches from east to west by 31 feet 9
inches from north to south. The ground floor has been vaulted, but the
vault is now demolished. The hall, which was about 25 feet by 15 feet,
occupied the first floor. It had a large window to the west, with the
ingoing and arch over it carefully dressed. There has also been a window
Fig. 3(55. — Lamiugtou Tower. View fioin tjuuth-West.
to the south. The opening through the south wall adjoining the wind(jw
was probably a wall-chamber, which has now been partly built up to
strengthen the ruin. At the north-west angle the remams of a well-formed
wall-chamber or garde-robe are observable.
The fireplace of the hall was probably in the east or south walls,
which are now demolished. The entrance door and wheel-stair would also
be in the part of the structure which is gone. The corner turret on the
north-west angle, however, still survives (Fig. 365), and indicates by the
small corbelling which supports it the date of the building. This, as
already stated, was in the Fourth Period. A stone bearing the shield
(nine stars) of the Baillies (Fig. 366) has been removed from " Wallace's
Tower " and inserted in the gable of the Episcopal Chapel at Lamington,
as stated on the inscription beneath it. The design of the shield is
* Vere Ii'vmg's Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, Vol. i. p. 222.
FOURTH PERIOD
438
STONEBYRES
evidently also of the Fourth Period— probably towards the end of the
sixteenth century.
The lands of Lamington belonged from an
early period to the monks of Newbattle, and a
beautiful relic of their sway is preserved in the
line Norman doorway of the church, erected by
them in the twelfth century, and still used as
the parish church, although this doorway is now
1 .], Fig. 366. -Lainington Tower.
DUllt up. HhieUloftlieBaillies.
STONEBYRES,* Lanarkshire.
A mansion situated on the south bank of the Clyde, about three miles
below Lanark, and near the famous waterfall of the same name.
Previous to 1850, when the present mansion encasing the old structure
was erected, the latter consisted of an oblong tower, about 70 feet long
by 34 feet wide, and five stories high. This building (Fig. 367) appears to
SECOND FLOG)
GROUND FLO OK
FIRST FLOOR
4 ^
Fig. 367.— Stonebyres. Plans.
have been composed of two parts — viz., an ancient square tower with an
oblong addition at one end. The former, which was probably the original
keep, was 34 feet by 29 feet, with walls of 8 or 9 feet in thickness. It
* The Plans have been kindly supplied by Mr. Bryce, and the View is taken from
a scarce lithograph in the possession of Mr. John Baird, architect, Glasgow.
CASTLE CARY
— 439
FOURTH PERIOD
h;i(l nil entrance doorway on the ground floor, with a wheel-stair adjoining
in the thickness of the wall, which also contained passages on the upper
floors.
The wing, with walls about 6 feet in thickness, contained on the first
floor a hall, 32 feet long by 18 feet wide, with a wheel-stair in the angle.
On the second floor another wheel-stair is corbelled out near the centre of
Fig. 36S.— Stoucbyies. View.
the end wall (see Fig. 367), leading up to the third floor. Angle turrets,
two stories in height, crown the four corners of the building, and the top
story has had numerous dormers and crow-stepped gables.
The whole edifice, as shown in the Sketch, has been an imposing
and characteristic example of a Scottish mansion of the Fourth Period.
It belonged to the family of the Veres of Stonebyres from the fifteenth
till the middle of the present century.
CASTLE CARY, Stirlingshire.
This edifice is situated within one mile southwards from the railway
station of the same name, and is quite near the Roman wall. It enjoys
a beautiful secluded situation on the crest of the steep southern bank of a
glen, through which flows the Red Bui'n. The castle is well hidden from
distant view by the ancient trees with which it is surrounded. It consists
FODETH PKRIOD
— 440 —
CASTLE GARY
(Fig. 369) of buildings of two periods, wliicli form one house, with offices
and outbuildings adjoining.
The ancient portion, tinted black, is an oblong keep, measuring about
34 feet by 22 feet 9 inches, and 42 feet to the top of the battlements.
The entrance door, which is now built up, was in the north-west corner,
where also the staircase is situated, having a square projection to contain
it fitted into the interior. This stair leads to the three upper floors, the
attics, and battlements, where it is finished with a capehouse having a
high pitched roof, as seen in the View (Fig. 370). The ground floor is
Pig. 309.— Castle Gary. Plan.
vaulted, and was lighted by a slit 4 inches wide towards the courtyard.
The window shown on the opposite side is not original.
ilemains of an enclosing courtyard wall, 3 feet 9 inches thick,
extend northwards 44 feet 6 inches down the slope. This wall is seen
in the View, projecting beyond the house. It has been constructed
partly as a retaining wall, so as to secure a level courtyard. The garden
is enclosed with an old wall, as seen in the View, but it is certainly not
so old as the keep.
On the face of the keep towards the courtyard tusks or bond stones
project where shown by the dotted lines on Plan, indicating either
CASTLK GARY
441 —
FOURTH PERIOD
the existence of foi-mer buildings or contemplatetl buildings at this
part.
The additions made to the keep consist of a building to the eastward,
shown by hatched lines, extending to 30 feet G inches in length by about
19 feet 9 inches wide, with a tower about 10 feet 6 inches square projected
into the courtyard at the junction of the old and new works, and containing
W;-- .~?^|t
Fig. 370.— Castlo Gary. View from South- West.
a new entrance and staircase serving for the whole edifice. This addition
comprised, on the ground floor, a kitchen with offices, and a room above.
There seems also to have been an attic with dormer windows rising into
the roof ; the lower part of these windows, now built up, is seen in the
View. There is nothing of special interest inside the house, which is still
inhabited, and makes a very comfortable residence. Over the doorway of
FOURTH PERIOD
442
CROSSBASKET AND CALDERWOOD
the cadditioii is the date 1679, and inside there is an iron yett, which may
have belonged to the original keep, the outer doorways being only 2 inches
difterent in width.
CROSSBASKET AND CALDERWOOD CASTLES, Lanarkshire.
Of the two keeps shown by Figs. 371 and 372 only the first is now in
existence, the other having fallen in January 1773, eight years after the
Sketch now shown was made. This Sketch is copied from a drawing
signed "W. Binton, 1765," in the possession of the Royal Scottish
Academy, and seems to be the only view of Calderwood now existing.
Crossbasket and Calderwood adjoin each other at a distance of two or
three miles fi'om Blantyre Railway Station. They are situated on the
wild precipitous banks of the Calder, a stream which pursues its course in
a deep and narrow rocky gorge clothed with thick woods.
.:d.iv ■■..:>
i Mm£^^^^^m
Fig. 371. — Calderwood Castle.
Crossbasket is a simple keep, measuring about 38 feet long by 22 feet
broad. There is a large modern mansion, attached to its east end, as
shown by Sketch. The interior of the keep has been greatly altered to
suit modern circumstances. The exterior, however, is mostly old work,
bvit the embrasures on the staircase turret are modern, as is also the
enlarging of the windows (except the dormers, which are old).
The tower is three stories high, with attics, and has a walk round the
battlements. Crossbasket was a jointure house of the Lindsays of Mains,
whose Castle of Mains is described in this volume, and there has bee^
some resemblance between the two structures.
Calderwood was a much more massive keep than either of its neighbours
just mentioned, having been 69 feet long by 40 feet wide, and 87 feet 6
KILMAIIEW CASTLE
— 443
FOURTH PERIOD
inches high.* Some later buildings had heeii attached to it, which are still
standing. The.se are of no interest, and still f'oi-ia part of a large modern
house, which was built after the fall of the old castle.
•#M-f>^^36_ ._ „ ,_.
C< i-i.
Ficj. 372.— Crossbaskct Castle. View from South-East.
The Maxwells of Calderwood are descended from tlie Pollock branch of
the family. Sir Robert Maxwell of Calderwood, the ancestor of this
branch, died in 1363. There does not appear to be any account of
the building of the castle, but it may have belonged to an early
period.
KILMAHEW CASTLE, Dumbartonshire.
This old castle, the ancient seat of the Napiers, stands near the top of
a picturesque little ravine, about one mile north from the Frith of Clyde
at Cardross. The estate remained in the possession of the Napier family
* History of Ruthenjlen and East Kilbride, by D. Ure, p. 154.
FOURTH tEEIOD
444
KILMAIIEW CASTLE
from the thirteenth to the nineteenth century, when it was broken up and
sold in lots, but has again to a great extent been gradually acquired and
reunited by the present proprietor, John William Burns, Esq., and his
father. During the interval the owner of the castle for the time carried
out considerable alterations upon it, and rebuilt the south and west walls
with the view of rendering it a modern mansion in the Gothic style, with
a large entrance staircase and doorway at the south-west angle (Fig. 373).
This work, however, was never completed.
The fireplace in the east wall and various wall recesses also seem to
owe their origin to the operations of this period. The general outline of
the structure is undoubtedly that of tlie original castle, being a parallel-
ogram 46 feet long by 25 feet broad. The entrance door (Fig. 374) was
A probable:
STAIRCASE
Pig. 373.— Kilmahcw Castle. Plan.
near the north-west angle, and on the ground Moor. The broad lintel
which covers it bore at one time the motto—" The peace of God be
herein." At the parapet, exactly above the doorway, may be noticed
two large and boldly-projecting corbels, which no doubt carried a
battlement or breteche for the protection of the entrance. Some of
the smaller corbels of the parapet are also preserved. In the angle
adjoining the doorway the staircase in all probability was carried up,
while a passage along the west wall would give access to the cellars
and kitchen on the ground floor. The latter was evidently at the north
end, from its great fireplace being still preserved.
The fine modei^n mansion of Kilmahew, built by the late Mr. Burns,
occupies a beautiful site at a short distance from the old castle. From its
BANNACIIRA OASTLK
— 445 —
FOURTH PKIUOD
'^h^^ff^f^'-'^t^
Fig. 374.— Kilmahcw Castle. View from North-West.
well-kept and picturesqixe grounds a splendid view is obtained o^er the
Frith of Clyde and the Renfrewshire hills beyond.
BANNACHRA CASTLE, Dumbautonshire.
A very ruinous structure, which occupies a fine site on a rising ground,
about five miles north from Helensburgh, and commands an extensive
prospect over Loch Lomond and the mountains which surround it. The
castle occupies a point partly defended by the ravines of Glen Fruin and a
small tributaiy. It is a plain rectangular plan (^Fig. 375), 46 feet long by 23
feet wide, with walls 3 feet 9 inches thick. The eastern end is greatly
demolished, but the outline of the kitchen fireplace at that end can be
distinguished.
The entrance doorway and staircase were doubtless in the south-east
angle, but they are now entirely obliterated. The partitions which
divided the ground floor have also disappeared, but were most likely
arranged somewhat as shown on the Plan — the kitchen being at the east
end, a cellar in the centre, and probably a bakehouse at the west end,
where there are two circular recesses in the wall, as if for ovensl The
FOURTH PKIMOD
446 —
BANNACHRA CASTLE
first floor would contain the hall, and perhaps also a private room ofl" it at
the west end. The windows were of good size, and have shot-holes under
Fig. 375.— Bannaelira Castle. Plan.
them (Fig. 376). Most of the freestone corners and dressings have been
removed, aiid tlie building is otheiwise so destroyed that its arrangements
^mmmmsM!^^^
Fig. 37G.— Bannaelira Castk. View fi-om Soutli-West.
V
CASTLE SnUNA 447 FOUIITII PERIOD
cannot be further ascertained. It seems to have had one story over the
hall, finished on the gables with crow -steps.
In early times the lands belonged to the Galbraiths, but in 1512 they
came into the possession of the Colquhouns, by whom the castle was
erected. In 1592 it was the scene of a tragic event, only too characteristic
of the times and the locality. The Colquhouns, being at feud with the
Macgregors, were suddenly attacked by the latter, and Sir Humphrey, the
head of the clan, took refuge in Bannachra. The Macgregors watched the
castle, and succeeded in shooting Sir Humphrey with an arrow as he was
going upstairs to bed, having been aided, it was alleged, by a servant, who
carried the light so as to make Sir Humphrey distinctly visible to those
without. The castle then fell into the hands of the Macgregoi's, and was
destroyed by them ; and whether it was ever repaired is doubtful. Such
features as it has are those of a building of the Fourth Period.
DARLEITH CASTLE, Dumbartonshire.
An old keep now incorporated in a modern mansion, about three miles
north from Cardross. Some of the coats of arms and a dormer window are
preserved, but otherwise the old structure has been modei'nised.
The property belonged, after 1510, to the family of John Darleitli <tf
Darleith.
ROSSDHU CASTLE, Dumbartonshire.
This ancient seat of the Colquhouns of Luss, now reduced to a single
wall, was a square and simple keep of the Fourth Period. It was occu-
pied by the family till 1770, when it was partially demolished to supply
materials for a modern mansion.*
KILLUNDINE CASTLE, Argyllshire.
A quadrilateral building, with one gable standing on the top of a rocky
headland on the opposite coast of the Sound of Mull from Aros Castle.
It is supposed to have been a hunting lodge connected with Aros, and is
still called the "Dog Castle." It is evidently a late structure, without
much architectural interest.
CASTLE SHUNA.f
A very ruinous quadrilateral pile, 38 feet in length by 24 feet wide,
which stands near the south end of the island of Shuna, in Loch Linnhe,
* For ilhistration see Fraser's Chiefs of Colquhoun.
t Particulars kindly supplied by Dr. Christison.
FOURTH PERIOD
448
MONIMAIL CASTLE
opposite Portnacroish. Tlie ground floor is vaulted, and contained a
kitchen and cellar. The former had a large fireplace, the outer wall of
which has now been broken through, and forms an access to the interior.
The cellar is connected with the first floor by a wheel-stair in the south-
west angle of the walls, which has also been carried up to the upper
floors. The hall occupied the first floor, but a portion of the south and
east walls is all that remains of it. Three recesses, of two windows and
one fireplace, with elliptical arches, occur in the walls, and the corbels
which carried the floor above are also partly preserved.
A circular staircase tower has been added at a later date than that of
the orirdnal construction on the east side of the building.
MONIMAIL CASTLE, Fifesiiire.
A picturesque tower (Fig. 377), said to be the only surviving portion
of a large castle, standing in the grounds of Melville Castle, about a mile
east from Collessie Station.
The Archbishops of St Andrews had a residence here from the four-
FiG. 377.— Monimail Castle. View from West.
SEAFIELD TOWER
449 —
FOURTH PERIOD
teenth century, and tlio existing tower is supposed to bo part of a large
extension of the castle erected by Cardinal Beaton. It is a work of
unusual relincmcnt, the mouldings being varied from the connnon pattern,
and the bartizans being of an octagonal instead of the ordinary round
form. Ornamental panels, containing shields with coats of arms and
well-executed heads, are let into the parapet. The spiral termination of
the turret, which contains the stair and door to the flat roof, with its
lucarnes, is also an unusual feature, rather indicative of ecclesiastical than
baronial work. It is much to be regretted that so little of this tine work
has been preserved. This tower is now reduced to the unworthy position
of a " bothy " occupied by the gardeners of Melville Castle.
SEAFIELD TOWER, Fifeshire.
Built on a rock close to the sea, about a mile north-east from Kinghorn,
this ruin consists of a square tower (Fig. 378) about 32 feet by 26 feet,
with walls about 5 feet 6 inches thick. The ground floor (Fig. 379) has
y»J|^:*
Fic. 378.— Seafield Tower. View from North-West.
been vaulted, and there has been a wheel-stair at the south-east corner
The building seems to have been altered at a recent date, probably by
smugglers. It has been surrounded by a wall, at least on the landward
side, parts of which remain, and also possibly by a fosse.
2 F
FOURTH PERIOD
— 450
PITTEADIE CASTLE
Seafield was the home of the Moultrays, or Moutrays. The last
Moultray of Seafield was killed during the rebellion of 1715. Subse-
FiG. 379.— Seafield Tower. Plan of Ground Floor.
quently the tower belonged to the Earls of Melville, and is now part of
the Raith estate.
PITTEADIE CASTLE, Fifeshire.
A tower, situated about two miles north-west from Kinghorn. It must
have been a delightful residence, being surrounded with fine trees, and
having an extensive garden sloping southwards to the sun ; but it is now
a melancholy ruin, utterly uncared for. The approach to the castle is
through a quaint round-arched gateway dated 1686 (Fig. 380), situated
PITTEADIE CASTLK
— 451
FOUUTH PERIOD
Pig. 380.— Pitteadifi Castle. View from North-East.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 452 —
PITTEAHIE CASTLE
opposite the north-east end of the castle, which is a square keep (Fig.
381), measuring about 35 feet from east to west by 28 feet from north to
south. At the south-east corner there is a lofty square staircase tower,
finished with crow-stepped gables.
The main structure is of an earlier date than the gateway ; but it
seems — probably when the gateway was erected — to have undergone con-
SECT/ON ofCORBc.L
COURSEoF TOWER
FIRST FLOOR PLHN
QHfEYfUY
GROUND PLfIN
Fig. 381.— Pitteadie Castle. Plans.
siderable alteration by the enlargement of the windows and a change in
the position of the entrance doorway. The original entrance was in the
south front, by a round-arched doorway on the first floor level, 10 or
12 feet above the ground. Its position is indicated on Fig. 382, which
shows one half of the doorway, cut away to allow of the enlargement of
the window adjoining, and the other half built up. At the sill of the
door are visible two corbels, evidently meant for the support of some kind
PITTEADIE CASTLE
— 453
FOURTH PERIOD
of movable wooden gangway for access. There is a doorway in the east
face of the tower, which in the later occupation of the building has been
Fig. 382. — Pitteadie Castle. View from South-East.
lowered to the ground level. A peculiarity about this entrance (which
leads straight into the vaulted ground floor) is that the lowest step of the
FOURTH PERIOD
— 454 —
PITTEADIE CASTLE
stair in the tower is about 5 feet above the level of the entrance passage.
This staircase, however, led originally down to the ground floor, in which
there was no exterior doorway, and the lower steps of the stair have been
removed to make room for the new entrance door and passage.
The ground floor is lighted with one window, but pi'obably there was
another next the entrance, which is now closed by the farm buildings
erected on that side. The first floor contains a hall lighted by three
windows, having a fireplace of a striking design (Fig. 383) at the east end.
It consists of moulded jambs, each capped by a block, on the top of
which a stone corbel on either side projects to support the lintel. The
latter is broken, and an immense quantity of fallen debris fills up the fire-
place and the whole floor. The Sketch (which is taken looking into the
Fig. 383.— Pitteadie Castle. Jamb of Fireplace in Hall.
ingoing of the fireplace) shows a stone seat in a recess. Thei^e is a garde-
robe at the north-west corner of the hall.
The main staircase stops at the second floor level, from whence, in the
usual manner, a turret stair (seen in Fig. 380) leads to the top. The upper
floors, of which there were at least two above the hall, besides one or two
stories in the tower, are now inaccessible. There is a shoot for a garde-robe
on the north side (Fig. 384) at the second floor level. On the south-west
and north-east corners are the remains of circular angle turrets, the north-
west corner being without one. The corbel course towards the top of the
large tower is of an unusual section (see Fig. 381), judging from which
it is evident that that part of the castle is late in the Fourth Period,
although probably the walls are of older date.
There is a well in the courtyard immediately inside the gateway^
PITTEADIE CASTLE
455 —
FOURTH PERIOD
Over the gateway are the initials and arms (Fig. 385) of William
Calderwood of Pitteadie, with the date 1686. Above the arms is the
family crest — a palm branch in the dexter hand — surmounted by the
motto, of which only the last five or six letters are visible, " Veritas
Fio. 384.- -Pitteadie Castle. View from North-West.
premitur non opprimitur." William Calderwood was " apothecarii
burgensis de Edinburgh" in 1668; but we have not learnt in what
manner he acquired this estate.
^
Ull^s^^
y
Pig. 385.— Pitteadie Castle. Anns over Archway (see Fig. 380).
In 1564 the property belonged to William Kirkcaldy of Grange; and
in 1637 it was succeeded to by "David Boiswell " of Glasmont.
FOURTH PERIOD
456
BANDON TOWER
GARDEN TOWER, Fifkshire.
A ruin situated in the parish of Auchterderran, about two and a
quarter miles east of the village of Lochgelly, on a rock overhanging a
deep ravine, in which flows the Garden Burn, the outlet of Lochgelly and
a tributary of the Ore.
The building consists of the fragmentary remains of the corner of a
square tower, with part of the corbelling of a round turret.
Garden belonged of old to a family named Martin. It now forms part
of the Raith estate.
BAN DON TOWER, Fifkshire.
A tower situated in the parish of Markinch, Fife. It stands on the
eastern slope of East Lomond Hill, about midway between Markinch and
Falkland, and consists of a rectangular tower (Fig. 386) about 31 feet by
22 feet, with the remains of a small circular tower at the north-west
corner, which has a more modern look than the main building. The
Pig. 386.— Bandon Tower. View from North-West.
whole structure is very much broken down. The ground floor (Fig. 387)
has probably been vaulted. The remains of a large fireplace exist in
the south-east end, with a wheel-stair adjoining. The walls are 3 feet
9 inches thick.
The building does not look older than about the end of the sixteenth
century.
MEGGERNIE CASTLE
457
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 387. — Bandon Tower. Plan of Ground Floor.
Formerly, Bandon belonged to a family of the name of Bethune ; now,
to Balfour of Balbirnie.
MEGGERNIE CASTLE,* Perthshire.
An ancient keep, with a modern mansion added to it, about twenty-two
miles west from Aberfeldy, and near the head of the long narrow glen of the
Fig. 388.— Meggemie Castle.
We have to thank Mr. W. F. Lyon, architect, for a Sketch of this castle.
FOURTH PERIOD 458 EASTER CLUNE
Lyon. It is approached by a fine avenue of lime trees, and is surrounded
with extensive woods. The ancient portion of the house consists of a
square tower (Fig. 388), five stories in heiglit, with square turrets at the
angles and ornamental dormers.
Glen Lyon was for long the property of the Campbells, by whom this
keep was probably erected in the beginning of the seventeenth century.
DRUMLOCHY CASTLE, Perthshire.
This castle stood opposite Glasclune, on the east side of the ravine
which separates the parishes of Blairgowrie and Kinloch.
The Blairs of Glasclune and the Herons of Drumlochy were at constant
feud, " which the proximity of their strongholds," says the author of the
Statistical Account, " affcjrded them abundant opportunities of gratifying,
by a constant and harassing system of petty warfare, attended with con-
siderable bloodshed on both sides, till at length the struggle was ended in
the total discomfiture of the unfortunate Laird of Drumlochy and the
demolition of his fortress." A few fragments, now converted into a cow-
house, are all that remain.
GARTH CASTLE, Perthshire.
A simple keep, surmounting a lofty and rocky point above the Glen
of the Keltney Burn, about six miles west from Aberfeldy. It is said to
have belonged at the end of the fourteenth century to the " Wolf of
Badenoch," and that that unruly chief was for a time imprisoned in it by
the orders of his father. King Robert ii.
From the "Wolf," who was also Earl of Buchan, were descended the
Stewarts of Athole, who were long proprietors of Garth and the occupants
of the castle. A few years ago the keep had fallen into complete ruin,
but it has recently been almost entirely rebuilt and restored. It is now
the property of Sir Donald Currie, M.P.
EASTER CLUjNE, Aberdeenshire.
A small ruin, not one story high, of a tower, said to have been built
by Archbishop Ross. It stands on the Feugh Burn, about seven miles
south-west from Aboyne.
INVERMA.RK CASTLK
459
FOURTH PERIOD
COLQUHONNY CASTLE, Aberdeenshire,
Stands on the Don, near Strathdon, and consists of one vaulted story
of a tower, said to have been built by Forbes of Towie in the sixteenth
century, but never finished.
INVERMARK CASTLE * Forfarshire.
This is one of those rudely-built simple keeps whose age it is difficult
to tell from their design. It stands at the east end of Loch Lee, on a
romantic site amonsst the mountains near the head of Glen Esk, some
~^X
Fio. 380. — Invermark Castle. View from North-West.
We have to thank Mr. George Gordon Milne for the Plans of this castle.
FOURTH PERIOD
460 —
INVERMARK CASTLE
twenty miles north-west fi^om Brechin. A castle is supposed to have
occupied the site (which is an important one, and commands the passes
into several glens) as early as the foui'teenth century, when Sir John de
Stryocline, or Stirling, took his title from it, and it is sometimes stated that
this is his actual castle. The district afterwards passed into the possession
of the Lindsays, and is now the property of the Earl of Dalhousie.
-^^
Fig. 390. — Invermark Uastle. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor.
The castle (Fig. 389) stands upon the top of a bank, well defended by
the river, and has the massive walls and rounded angles which often mark
the earlier keeps. It is a plain oblong tower (Fig. 390), measuring
38 feet 6 inches by 30 feet, with walls varying from 5 feet 6 inches to
7 feet in thickness. The only entrance to the castle is on the first floor,
at a height of about 9 feet above the ground. This door is secured with
a strong iron yett, which is still in position. Behind the yett was a
wooden door with a sliding bar.
It is said* that the approach to the door was by a strong stone stair
* Angus or Forfarshire, by A. J. Warden.
INVERMARK CASTLE
461 —
FOURTH PERIOD
— but at a distance of 12 feet from the castle — and that a drawbridge
was swung between the castle and the stair. There is no appearance of
this stair now% and the castle is so completely overgrown with ivy that
the connection for the bridge, if such exists, cannot be examined.
Immediately adjoining the door a wheel-stair leads down to the base-
ment floor, which is one large vaulted apartment, with numerous widely-
splayed shot-holes. The stair leading upwards to the top of the castle no
longer exists. It was in the rounded recess shown on the first floor, and
Fig. 391. — Invenuark Castle. View from South-East.
partly projected into the hall and the rooms above. The great hall
measures about 29 feet by 20 feet 6 inches, and had two fireplaces, with
two garde-robes in the north wall. This floor may have been divided
into two apartments — the hall and the private room — by a partition.
This would explain the two fireplaces and the two garde-robes. The
rooms are well lighted with three windows, which have stone seats.
There were two floors and attics above the hall level (see Fig. 389).
In the lofty chimneys of the north and south fronts are seen some of
the windows of the attic floor (Figs. 389 and 391). A large turret,
provided wdth shot-holes and a narrow slit, is corbelled out on the
south-east angle of the tower. Some of these features show that the upper
part at least is not very ancient. A fortalice of the Second Period would
have been terminated at the top by a bold parapet, well corbelled out, and
FOURTH PERIOD
462
FAIRBURN TOWER
tho ga}>los and chimneys would he raised inside it on the inner edge of-
the walls. But instead of these features we find the gables and chimneys
carried straight up from the face of the walls, and the eaves of the roof
projected to the outer face of the side walls, without any parapet at all.
The mode in which the rounded corners are brought to the square near
the top also points to a late date ; and we have seen, at Coxton and else-
where, that the door was frequently placed on the first floor, even in the
seventeenth century. There can be no hesitation, therefore, in assigning
this keep to the Fourth Period.
FAIRBURN TOWER,* Ross-shiee.
A lofty tower standing on the summit of a flat-topped hill, above the
River Orrin, about four miles south from Strathpeffer, and the same
distance west from Muir of Ord tStation.
U i i I I Hill ■ — (- -f
Fio. 392.— Fairburn Tower. Sections.
* Tho measured dniwings of this castle liavc been kindly supplied by William C.
Joass, Esq., architect, Dingwall.
FAIRBURN TOWER
463
FOURTH PERIOD
This tower was one of the strongholds of the Mackenzies. It is a
simple oblong keep on Plan (Fig. 393), but is carried to a great height,
and being conspicuous, owing to its lofty site, from all sides, probably-
served as a watch and signal station. The original entrance door was on
the first floor, and was defended by a sliding bar. The hall, which
SECOND rLOOR
FIRST FLOOR
Fig. 393. — Fairburn Tower. Plans, &c.
GROUND FLOOR
occupied this floor, is 1 6 feet square, and has several wall-chambers in the
walls, which are 5 feet 6 inches thick. One of these conducts to the
straight stair down to the basement. This was the only means of
entrance to the ground floor, which had no door to the exterior. This
floor is vaulted (Fig. 392), and contains three shot-holes in each side,
all deeply splayed, both internally and externally. The rounded recess
FOURTH PERIOD
464
FAIRBURN TOWER
adjoining the entrance door on tlie first floor evidently contained the
original staircase to the uj^per floors, on each of which there was one
room of the same size as the hall, and with similar arrangements. The
top floor has an angle turret on the north-east and south-west angles only
(see Fig. 393). This tower is very similar in character to those of Hallbar
Fig. S94. — Fairburn Tower. View from South-East.
and Coxton (see Vol. ii. pp. 23 and 26), and probably dates, like them,
from about the beginning of the seventeenth century. At a later time a
square projecting tower has been added on the south side (Fig. 394), con-
taining a staircase, which gave access from the ground to the hall and the
upper floors. Good stone being scarce in this locality, one of the windows
CASTLE CRAIG
465
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 395.— Fairbui-n Tower. View from West.
is lintelled with oak ; but the buiklers took care to give it a good water
table to defend the timber from the weather (Fig. 395).
CASTLE CRAIG, Ross-shire.
A fragment (Fig. 396) of a Fourth Period mansion, situated on the
crest of a perpendicular rock, which rises above the east side of Cromarty
Fi'ith. It is said to have been erected by the Urquharts, barons of
Cromarty, and was at one time occupied by the bishops of Ross. The
interior is demolished or inaccessible. The structure has extended further
southwards than it now does, but that end is now completely ruined. The
top of the cliff on which the castle stands has been fortified with a wall,
provided with round towers and crenellated for defence.
2 G
FOURTH PERIOD
— 466 -
CASTLE CRAIG
^^d/hit'pi
BEDLAY HOUSE — 467 — FOURTH PERIOD
The most interesting feature about the building is the parapet with its
corbelling. This extends across the north end only, and is not returned
along the sides. It is of the usual character of the work of the beginning
of the seventeenth century — the cable moulding and the revived dog-
tooth associated with the corbelling are sure indications of that date.
They give great richness of effect to this part of the edifice, and show that
the Scottish style, even to its latest details, was universally employed all
over the country. The lower tier of corbels is managed in a somewhat
exceptional but effective manner.
11. L PLANS.
BEDLAY HOUSE,* Lanarkshire.
Bedlay House is situated in Cadder parish, about seven miles north-
east from Gla,sgow. It occupies the abrupt termination of a trap dyke
which runs through the county for a considerable distance. The whole
breadth of the summit of the dyke is occupied by the building, and pro-
bably before the existing terraces at the south and west ends were made
the ground on these sides sloped up to the walls as steeply as it does now
on the north side. The lower part of the south terrace wall is old, but the
buttress and balustrade are of recent date.
The position of the building is low and secluded, overlooking a pretty
winding glen, through which flows the Bothlin Burn on its way to join the
Water of Luggie.
The castle is of two periods (Fig. 397), the eastern end, with the square
tower at the north-east corner, being the oldest portion of the house. This
probably dates from about the end of the sixteenth century, when the
property was acquired by the Boyds ; while the westei-n portion with the
two round towers, shown hatched on Plan, was probably erected about a
century later by the Robertons. The staircase on the north side, with the
intermediate buildings between it and the north-east tower, are also old, and
it is possible that the north-east staircase is a part of the original structure
altered to suit existing circumstances. The entrance (the only one to the
house) is in the south face of the north-east tower by a broad moulded
doorway (Fig. 398). This tower contains the principal staircase, which
originally led to the first and second floors, but it is now cut off at the first
floor, where it gives access to the vestibule, which may also be reached by
* We are indebted to T. Craig Christie, Esq. of Bedlay, for assistance in preparing
this notice and the plans.
FOURTH PERIOD
468 —
BEDLAY HOUSE
the west stair leading to the second floor and attics. The ground floor of
the most ancient part of the edifice is vaulted, and contains a kitchen and
a large cellar (now a bedroom), each having ambries. Beyond this, in the
later building, is an apartment which seems to have been intended for a
kitchen ; and leading off" it are the rooms of the two western towers, which
have at this level dome-shaped ceilings. Owing to the sudden falling away
of the ground at this end, there is an under floor to these towers, reached
by trap stairs, shown by dotted lines on Plan. Between this apartment
and the old house there is a narrow passage, which at one time opened out
|iiii|tiii|
TE PRACe
Fig. 397.— Bedlay House. Plans.
on the terrace by a door, shown built up, which is sloped away to one side.
On the first floor the space between the east and west staircase towers is
occupied as a vestibule, and the rooms are the full width between the main
outside walls of the house. These rooms, with the exception of the dining-
room, are all modernised. So, indeed, is the whole interior of the house ;
but there are still one or two details left which are characteristic of
Scottish houses — such as the fireplace (shown on Fig. 399), where the
filleted square capital, resting on the round pillar, is characteristic of the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The lintel of this fireplace is cracked
and broken, and is now covered with wood lining. Another feature still
BEDLAY HOUSE
469
FOURTH PERIOD
left at Bedlay is the garde-robe in the thickness of the north walL Its
flue descends to the ground, and is now used for containing water pipes.
This garde-robe is similar to those found in the south wall of Castle
Campbell. In the southmost round tower, on the second floor, there
remains another construction sometimes found in our old houses, viz., a
hiding-place, or it may have been a lug. Its entrance exists opposite the
west window, and it is shown by a square hatch on Plan. In order to
lift this hatch, a seat in the window has to be removed, but it is con-
Fic. 398. — Bedlay House. View from South-East.
structed so as to be easily taken to pieces. The space beneath the floor is
the wliole size of the tower, about 8 feet 4 inches in diameter, and about
3 feet high. The long hinges, decorated with the Scottish thistle, are from
a door in the north-west tower (see Fig. 398), an argument in favour of
this tower being a part of the original structure. Over the east window of
the hall are the arms of Roberton of Bedlay, within a moulded panel, viz.,
quarterly, first and fourth gules, a close helmet argent ; second and third
argent, a cross crosslet fitchee gules in chief, a crescent for a brotherly
diff'erence. Crest, an anchor proper. Motto, "For Securitie." These
FOURTH PERIOD
— 470 —
BEDLAY HOUSE
are boldly cut, and in high relief ; while an empty panel above the door
probably once contained the arms of the Boyds of Kilmarnock. Fig.
400 shows the older part of the castle on the left, and on the right the
portion added to the west by the Roberton family, with the two round
towers.
The following notes are epitomised from a MS. History of Bedlay
(written by the late John Buchanan, Esq., LL. D., Glasgow), now in the
possession of the proprietor, Thomas Craig Christie, Esq. of Bedlay and
Petershill, to whom we are greatly indebted for kindness and assistance
in vai'ious ways.
The manor of Bedlay, or Ballayn, as it was anciently called, was
ecclesiastical property before the time of David i., as in his " Inquisition"
Fig. 399. — Bedlay House. Fireplace.
he restores the lands, which had been despoiled, to the Church of Glasgow ;
and William the Lion, in 1180, grants the same "to God, the Church, and
Bishop Joceline." Bedlay continued in the possession of the Bishops of
Glasgow until 1580, when it was alienated by James Boyd, titular arch-
bishop,* to his kinsman Robert, fourth Lord Boyd of Kilmarnock, who is
believed to have built the house. In 1642, James, eighth Lord Boyd,
disposed of " Bedlay and Mollins " to James Roberton, advocate, of the
family of Earnock. He was subsequently raised to the bench under the
title of Lord Bedlay. In this family it remained till 1786, and by them
the addition at the west end was probably built. After passing through
various hands, it was purchased at the beginning of this century by James
* Boyd was elected archbishop in 1572, aud turned out in 1581.
MONKLAND HOUSE
— 471
FOURTH PERIOD
Campbell of Petershill, and was carried by the marriage of the latter's
granddaughter to the present proprietor.
''^a.
V///
Fig. 400.— Bedlay House. View from North-West.
It may be noted that when the Boyds sold Bedlay they retained the
superiority, which was purchased by the Robertons, in 1740, from "William,
the fourth and last Earl of Kilmarnock, who was beheaded for his part in
the enterprise of 1745.
MONKLAND HOUSE, Lanarkshirk.
This mansion is situated in the very centre of the coal and iron
industry of Lanarkshire. It stands in a lovely nook in the valley of the
Calder, about one and a half miles south from Airdrie.
The house is built against a high bank, so that on the north side it
FOURTH PERIOD
— 472 —
MONKLAND HOUSE
appears a story less in height than on the south (Fig. 401). The entrance
doorway, which is in the stair turret in the re-entering angle, thus comes
to be at the level of the first floor. The staircase leads down to the
ground floor (Fig. 402), the whole of which is vaulted and strongly
constructed, with walls varying from 4 to 5 feet in thickness. In the
original construction there appears to have been no door to the out-
side on the lower floor.
Pig. 401. — MouUland House. View froui South-West.
It would thus appear that although the house was provided with many
modern conveniences of arrangement, it was still built, in view of liability
to predatory attacks, with a strong basement floor, in connection with
which supposition it is probable that the ground floor windows were
originally small, and have been enlarged. The kitchen is in the north-
west tower, and its wide flue, with the deeply-recessed windows on either
side, are seen on the floor above. The chimney stack visible above the
MONKLAND HOUSE
— 473
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 402. — 5[oiikland House. Plans of First Floor and Ground Floor.
Fig. 403.— Monklaud House. Fireplace in Dining-Room.
FOURTH PERIOD
474
JERVISTON HOUSE
roof is evidently modern, being much smaller than was considered
necessary for a kitchen vent in the seventeenth century.
On the first floor there is a modern passage and porch (as shown by
dotted lines) at the enti-ance door. In ancient times a door opened from
the staircase into what is now the drawing-room, and access to the other
rooms was obtained through this one. The interior of the house has been
very much modernised, and the only portion of any architectural interest
is the dining-room fireplace (shown Fig. 403).
AUCHENVOLE, Dumbartonshire.
A mansion on the south bank of the Kelvin, near Kilsyth, now greatly
altered and added to. The Sketch (Fig. 404) shows what remains of the
Fig. 404. — Auchenvole. View from North-West.
old part ; and from this it evidently belongs to the Fourth Period, of
which it is a picturesque specimen.
JERVISTON HOUSE,* Lanarkshire.
An ancient seat of the Baillie family, situated on high ground over-
looking the valley of the Clyde, about one mile south from Motherwell.
* We have to thank Lord Hamilton of Dalzell for assistance in connection witli
this building.
JERVISTON HOUSE
475 —
FOURTH PERIOD
The plan is of the L form (Fig. 405), and contains on the ground floor the
vaulted kitchen and cellar, with the hall on the first floor and bedrooms
above. The wing contains the entrance door,
with its large roll moulding, surmounted by a
cornice (Fig. 406), with an inscription on the
lintel, now nearly obliterated, but the initials
R. B. and E. H. are still observable at either end.
Above this is a panel containing an inscription
(see Fig. 406), but it is now too much decayed to
be legible.
The principal stair ascends to the first floor,
above which the wing contains bedrooms, entered
from a turret stair corbelled out in the re-
entering angle. This turret was originally terminated with a conical
roof (as shown in Fig. 407), which has now disappeared. An angle turret
Pic. 405.
Jerviaton House.
Plan.
Fig. 406. — Jerviston House. View from North-East.
FOURTH PERIOD
476 —
GARRION TOWER
Fig. 407. — Jervistou House. Re.stoied View from North-East.
was also formerly corbelled out at the north-east angle of the main build-
ing, but of this some of the corbels only now remain. The building
evidently belongs to the Fourth Period.
GARRION TOWER,* Lanarkshire.
This tower is situated in a liaugh, at the junction of the Garrion Burn
with the River Clyde, opposite the village of Dalserf, and commanded a
ford which led to the old road between Carlisle and Ayr.
The old building has been incorporated with a large modern mansion,
* Our attention was drawn to this house by Mr. James D. Roberton, of Glasgow,
who kindly made the annexed Plans, and supplied us with the information for the
description.
GARRION TOWER
— 477
FOURTH PERIOD
of which a part is seen in the conical roofed tower and gable on the right
hand of View (Fig. 408).
The Plans, however, show that Garrion is a genuine old Scotch house,
probably of the seventeenth century. It is on the L Plan, measuring
FIRST FLOOR
Fig. 40S — Garrion Tower. Plans and View from North.
about 25 feet from east to west, by 19 feet 6 inches from north to south,
and 26 feet over the wing. The doorway is in the re-entering angle,
leading directly to the stair in the wing. The stair leads to the top, and
is square inside up to the first floor, above which it becomes circular. The
ground floor is vaulted, and contains two cellars. The smaller cellar is
FOURTH PERIOD 478 HAGGS CASTLE
6 feet 9 inches high, with a stone sill at the door 6 inches high, and was
originally lighted by one small window, that on the east side being
modern. The floor of this cellar is of stone, while that of the one
adjoining is of earth, and is at a level of 6 inches higher*. A stone ledge,
about 7 inches in breadth, runs round two sides of this cellar. The
rooms on the first and attic floors enter directly from the staircase, while
the second floor enters from a passage built outside the staircase wing.
The building, containing the passage and a small closet (shown hatched),
was probably erected shortly after the construction of the tower, and
before this addition was made the second floor doubtless entered from the
staircase like the others, and was originally one room. The hall, which is
on the first floor, measures 19 feet 3 inches by 13 feet 9 inches, and is 10
feet 10 inches high. It is well lighted by two windows in the south
wall, opposite which is the fireplace and a small ambry.
The head-room into the attic floor is very low, owing to the valley
rafter of the roof crossing the passage at a low level. Immediately inside
the passage the east wall is thinned off", leaving a ledge 8 inches wide at
one foot above the floor. The interior of the house has been entirely
modernised about the beginning of this century, at which time it seems to
have been in a state of ruin. The exterior of the doors and windows have
large bead mouldings on the angles, and beneath the sills of the staircase
windows are shot-holes.
The lands of Garrion belonged to the Church of Glasgow, and in 1530
mention is made of James Hamilton in " Garyn." (See Notices of Carluke,
printed by W. Rankin, Glasgow, p. 203.) Under the Great Seal, a charter
of confirmation is granted to "James Hamilton of Garion and Elizabeth
Haye, his spouse, and the longest liver of them, and to their heirs, of the
lands of Gairen, held of the Archbishop of Glasgow, of date 22nd February
1605 " {Mag. Sig. Lih. xlv. No. 21).
HAGGS CASTLE,* Renfrewshire.
Till a few years ago this building stood a roofless and deserted ruin, a
mile or two south from Glasgow ; and about the time the drawings were
made, a door was knocked through the north wall, and the ground floor
was used as a smithy in connection with coal pits in the vicinity. The
castle has lately been converted into a habitable dwelling-house, and has
become absorbed in the ever-spreading suburbs of the city. It is one of
* The Plans, the geometrical drawing of the south elevation, and the details (Figs.
409, 410, and 411) are from carefully-finished drawings made from actual survey, about
forty or fifty years ago, by John Baird, Esq., architect, Glasgow, who has kindly
lent them to us, together with photographs of the castle, from which the general
Views (Figs. 412 and 413) are taken.
HAGGS CASTLE
479
FOURTH PERIOD
the many charming buikUngs (of which Newark is the principal of this
type) that we owe to the Maxwells. There is a certain resemblance
between Newark and Haggs, and they are only sepai'ated in date by about
ten years. The cable moulding is frequently used in both structures, and
PLAN OF GROUND FLOOR
Fig. 400.— Haggs Castle. Plans of First Floor and Ground Floor.
about both there is a similarity in the general richness of effect. The
staircase turret, corbelled out here on the face of the south front, has also
a very decided resemblance to that at Newark (Fig. 867, Vol. ii.)
Haggs is of the L Plan (Fig. 409), with the staircase and entrance door
FOURTH PERIOD
480 —
HAGGS CASTLE
in the wing. The vaulted ground floor has a passage leading to the kitchen.
The kitchen fireplace is large, being about 19 feet by 5 feet, and is lighted
by a narrow slit at either end. The kitchen vent is capacious, and is
carried up in the usual wide chimney stack above the roof. The main
stair stops at the first floor, from whence two picturesque wheel-stairs led
to the upper floors — one starting from the landing of the main stair, and
the other entering oflT the hall. The hall is lighted by three windows, and
had a tine stone fireplace in the south wall, which, we understand, is now
shifted to the opposite wall.
Fig. 410.— Haggs Castle. South Elevation.
Entering from the deep ingoing of the end window, there is a mural
closet, measuring about 10 feet by 4 feet, from which a private stair led
down to the cellar beneath. Adjoining the hall is the private room, entered
through a kind of porch formed by the staircase turret. It has a project-
ing garde-robe in the north wall, which is continued to the floor above.
Before the restoration the upper floors were inaccessible and very ruinous,
but the top floor was evidently entirely in the roof, and was partly lighted
by the fine dormers shown in the Views.
The high pitched dormer on the left hand of the geometrical elevation is
HAGGS CASTLE
— 481 —
FOURTH PERIOD
comparatively modern, the original window being similar to the one shown
near it in the re-entering angle. The original principal dormer, being
that to the right in Fig. 410 (enlarged in Fig. 411), seems to have
been ornamented still further with small figures resting on the flat
Fio. 411.— Haggs Castle. Details of Entrance Doorway and Dormer Window.
skew-putts. These figures, when Mr. Baird made his drawings, were
stowed away in the panels over the doorway. We may here observe that
there is a slight discrepancy between the drawing now given and that
shown on a plate in Vol. i. of F. T. Dolman's work on Ancient Domestic
2 H
FOURTH PERIOD
— 482
HAGGS CASTLE
Architecture, wliere the side wing has a projection of about 9 feet 8 inches,
instead of 14 feet 6 inches, as shown in Mr. Baird's drawing. The explana-
tion of this is, that shortly before Mr. Dolman's drawings were made, this
wing being very ruinous, the wall containing the doorway was faced up
with new masonry, so as to preserve the doorway from falling away, and
this corner Mr. Dolman has represented as the extremity of the wing,
while it had in reality a circular end, as shown on Plan, with a consider-
ably greater projection. It is highly probable that this circular end was
Fig. 412.— Haggs Castle. View from South-West.
corbelled out to the square at the top in the manner so common in Scot-
land, and as found here in the case of one of the turrets (Fig. 412).
In Sir Wm. Eraser's work on The Maxwells of Pollock, Vol. i. p. 4, a
restored view of Haggs is given ; but it must be received with caution
as a representation of the ancient appearance of the castle, as is apparent
from the foregoing description and Mr. Baird's drawings.
Over the entrance doorway (Fig. 413, and enlarged in Fig. 411) was
the following inscription, now almost obliterated : —
HAGGS CASTLE
483
FOURTH PEllIOD
1585
Nl DOMINE
iEDES.STRVXE
RIT.FRUSTRA.STRVIS.
SR.JOHN.MAX^VELL.OF.POLLOK.KNY
GHT. AND. DAME. MARGARET. CONY NGH AM.
HIS.WYF.BIGGET.THIS.HOWS.
In the right-hand corner of Fig. 413 is shown an enharged View of
the cornice of the main house and tlie staircase tower.
The above Sir John Maxwell was the twelfth baron of Pollock. The
building of the house seems greatly to have taxed the energies of Sir
Fig. 413. -Hafigs Castle.
View from South-East and Detail of Coniice.
FOURTH PERIOD 484 THE MANSION-HOUSE, GREENOCK
John, as we find him two years afterwards, m January 1587, writing
to his father-in-law that the house was newly finished, wanting only " the
reparrating (pargetting?) within, whilk is na lytell mater." Also, he
reminds Conyngham that he promised help befoi'e the house was begun,
and that it was then " that tyme callit zour howis, or otherwais I had
never interpryisit sice ane wark." He goes on to say that he is ashamed
that his house "sowld stand lyik ane twme kirne." The letter, however,
is written " from the Haggis," showing that it was at least habitable. The
Lady Margaret was a daughter of the Laird of Caprington.
Haggs was used as the jointure house of the Maxwells of Pollock, and
there are no incidents of much historical note connected with it. It
seems to have been a resort of Covenanting preachers during the times of
Episcopacy. In 1667 a conventicle was held at Haggs, and again in 1676
the sacrament was administered within its walls, on account of which Sir
John Maxwell was imprisoned.
About 50 or 60 feet south-east from the castle there was a built well,
5 or 6 feet in diameter, the wall round which rose 4 or 5 feet above the
ground, and was finished on the top with an ornamental cope, enriched
with a cable moulding and dentils. This has been entirely destroyed,
and the well has been closed up.
THE MANSION-HOUSE,* Greenock, Renfrewshire.
This old mansion-house was taken down in 1886, and the Caledonian
Railway now passes through the site. The building stood on the summit
of a steep and lofty bank overlooking the Clyde. From this position it has
witnessed the rise of the town of Greenock, at its base, from a small fishing
village till it has become one of the great seaports of the country. The
ground slopes very rapidly down from the north and east sides of the
house, with a flattish terrace adjoining the house.
The mansion (Fig. 414) consisted of two distinct portions, the more
ancient pai^t being a picturesque old Scottish structure. Attached to the
west side of this was a square rectangular block, designed by James Watt,
father of the great engineer. There is reason to believe, as we shall
afterwards show, that this block occupied the site of a still older castle.
In the year 1540 Sir Alexander Schaw of Sauchie obtained from
James v. a grant of the foi'feited lands of Wester Greenock Schaw, which
had belonged to Sir James Hamilton, son of the Earl of Arran. The
lands are conveyed with the " auld castellsteid, castell, tour, fortalice,
and manor place new buildit." The ancient part of the house recently
taken down may at least in part have been the " manor place new
buildit," although doubtless considerably altered a hundred years later.
* We are particularly indebted to George Williamson, Esq., Historian of
Greenock, for assistance in connection with this building.
THE MANSION-HOUSE, GREENOCK
485 —
FOUKTII PERIOD
Sir Alexander conferred the lands of Gi-eenock on his eldest son John in
1542 ; and on the termination of the Sauchie line the Schaws of Greenock
Fig. -1:14. — The Mansiou-Huusc, Greenock. Plan of Ground Floor.
became the head of the family, and continued to reside in Greenock till
1745, when they removed to Ardgowan, the present family seat.
John Schaw, the third of Greenock, and
grandson of John Schaw just mentioned,
succeeded in 1620 and died in 1679, and
it was during his occupancy of the place
that several dates and initials were affixed
to the house. These were as follows : over
the garden entrance "1635"; over a back
entrance, "1637"; over the staircase door-
way, "1674" (Fig. 415); and on an orna-
mental well which stood in the Well Park
adjoining the mansion (Fig. 416), "1-629."
This well seems to have been erected by this
proprietor, as there were also to be observed
thereon the initials and entwined monograms
of John Schaw and his wife, Helen Houstoun,
daughter of the Laird of Houstoun, with
the Schaw arms (three covered cups).
Probably the effia^ced arms on one of the
Houstouns.
Fig. 41.5.
The Mansion-House, Greenock.
Date over Staircase Doorway.
shields were those of the
FOURTH PERIOD
— 486
THE MANSION-HOUSE, GREENOCK
The Sir John Schaw who succeeded in 1679 resided here till he died,
twenty years afterwards ; and during his time the place got into partial
ruin (a part of it having actually fallen) ; so much so that his successors,
the second Sir John and his wife, Dame Eleanor Nicolson, lived generally
at her patrimonial estate of Carnock, in Stirlingshire. Sir John, however,
resolved in 1702 to rebuild the house according to a plan prepared by Mr.
Boak, a contractor at Stirling, but this was frustrated by his death ; and
the house was not re-edified till some time before 1740 by his descendant.
Lady Cathcart, who, as above mentioned, employed James Watt as her
Fig. 416.— The Mansion-House, Greenock. The Well.
architect. It seems probable that the part of the house which fell was
the " auld castellsteid," &c., already referred to.
After the house was abandoned by the family it was let to various tenants,
and the vaulted ground floor shown on the Plan was used as a prison.
Evidence of this was to be seen on many parts of the walls, where the
inmates had scratched their names, with the dates of their incarceration.
On the west side of the house there was a courtyard, and along the
south side a passage leading to the brew-house, bake-house, peat-house, and
coal-house. These houses (which were removed before our survey was
THE MANSION-HOUSE, GREENOCK
— 487
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 41S.-The Mansion-Hoiise, Greenock. View Irom South- West.
FOUUTH PERIOD
488
THE MANSION-HOUSE, GREENOCK
made) are shown on the Plan, and for their position we are indebted
to a plan made in 1750, in the possession of Lord Cathcart, and kindly
lent us by his lordship.
A doorway and passage at the point where the old and new houses
joined entered from a garden which lay to the south. This led into
a small open court, entering from which was a door leading to the
Fig. 419.— The Mansion-House, Greenock. South Front of Old Portion.
vaulted apartments on the ground iloor of the old house. This door, as will
be seen on Plan, was secured with a sliding bar, which passed through a
niche for a lamp rest. The kitchen had a floor drain and a shoot through
the east wall. In the small room adjoining the kitchen there was an oven.
Between the south cellar and south-east tower there was a private stair
to the first floor. The entrance doorway, with the date 1674, opened
from the small court just mentioned and led to the wheel-stair.
OLD 13ISHOPTON
489
FOURTH PERIOD
The older part of the house (Fig. 417) showed a picturesque assemblage
of ci'ow-stepped gables and chimneys, which were evidently the work of
various periods. The Plan seems oi'iginally to have been of the L form,
with the staircase in the re-entex'ing angle. Hut this appears to have been
altered when the door bearing the date of 1674 was inserted at this point.
The newer house (shown by hatching in Plan, and in Fig. 418) was
added to the westwards, as above narrated, in the beginning of the
eighteenth century. It contains a large amount of accommodation, and
has its west front designed in the symmetrical manner then prevalent,
with a central doorway and windows on each side.
Fia:. 419 shows details of the south front of the old house.
OLD BISHOPTON, Renfrewshire.
An old mansion, about one mile west from Bishopton village. It
stands on a high rocky platform above the railway, and commands an
extensive view over the Clyde, from which it is distant about one mile.
The house is appi'oached from the south by a fine avenue of ancient lime
trees. It is of the simplest style of Scottish architecture, being of the
period after the disuse of turrets.
Fig. 420.-01(1 Bishopton. Plan of Ground Floor.
Originally the structure consisted of a plain L (tinted black on Plan,
Fig. 420), the south wing containing a wide square staircase and the
entrance doorway. The latter has some rustic work around it externally
(Fig. 421).
The main block contains two vaulted cellars, the loop-holes in which
have an antique character, from which it may be inferred that the
walls of this part of the structure are old, and that the upper portions
have been rebuilt or restoi'ed at a later date. The wings (shown by
hatched lines) to the south and west of the central building are certainly
FOURTH PERIOD
490 —
LOCH RANZA CASTLE
late additions, made to obtain extended accommodation. That at the
west end contains a kitchen on the ground floor, with its large fireplace,
and it is entered by an outside door, showing that it was an outer kitchen
for servants, such as we have met with several times elsewhere.
Fig. 421.— Old Bisliopton. View from South-West.
The estate belonged from the fourteenth century till the close of the
seventeenth to the family of Brisbane, when the lands were alienated by
John Brisbane to John Walkinshaw of that ilk.* This family again sold
the property to Hugh Dunlop, Esq., after which it passed by marriage to
Lord Sempill, from whom it was acquired by Sir J. Maxwell of Pollock.
LOCH RANZA CASTLE,! Arran, Buteshire.
This castle occupies the extremity of a low-lying peninsula jutting out
from the west side of and sti-etching nearly across the loch, which is a well-
sheltered haven, at the north end of the island, surrounded with hills.
The structure is of the L Plan (Fig. 422), the main block being 6Q feet
long by 35 feet wide, with a tower at the south-west corner projecting 15
feet 6 inches and in breadth about 16 feet 6 inches.
The approach is on the west or landward side, and the present
entrance faces the approach. A stone bartizan (as seen on the Third
Floor Plan and View, Fig. 423) is projected on corbels over this door-
way for its defence. Immediately inside the door a wheel -stair on
the left hand leads to the upper floors. On the ground floor one large
* CvsLwiorA's Benfrews/iire, p. 113.
t We are indebted to H. J. Blanc, Esq., architect, for the Plans of this castle.
LOCK KANZA CASTLE
491
FOURTH PERIOD
FOURTH PERIOD
492 —
LOCH RANZA CASTLE
iimi-'ii'M'
LOCH RANZA CASTLE — 493 — FOUKTII PERIOD
apartment occupies the southern part of the castle. The extreme
south end is partitioned off and forms a passage, giving access to a long
flight of stairs in the east wall, and also to a small arched chamber lighted
with a loop, and having an oblong aperture in the vault, measuring 5 feet
1 L^ inches by 20 inches, opening on the dais floor of the hall above. This
was probably a hatch by which barrels might be hoisted to the hall. A
small sink and drain are connected with the above chamber.
The basement of the south-west tower seems to have been the
dungeon, from its being guarded by a narrow door about 2 feet wide,
secured outside with a sliding bar. The floor is about 2 feet lower than
that of the cellar adjoining, and the ceiling is about 9 feet 4 inches high.
The dungeon is about 7 feet 6 inches squai-e. At the north end of the
basement are two vaulted apartments, with a low door of communication
about 4 feet high. A long straight staircase in the thickness of the east
wall led to the first floor. It seems likely that there was a second entrance
doorway on the east side, some few feet above the ground (the level of
which is probably higher at this part now than it was originally), and that
that door led into the mural stair, as if into a porch or lobby, near the point
where the stair has a wide landing (as shown on Plan). There were evidently
doors at this level across the staircase, for the purpose of preventing access
up the stair on the one hand and down on the other. The top of the stair-
case is now built up, and has been so for long, as on the other side of the
wall a garde-robe has been formed during the later occupation of the castle.
That this staircase gave access to the hall above is quite obvious from the
built-up door in the side wall. The dotted lines shown in the above garde-
robe indicate partitions on the floor and ceiling, now removed. The wheel-
stair on the.west side of the castle gives access to the hall and to the kitchen,
which are on the same level, and have a service window between them. The
hall measures 34 feet 6 inches by 23 feet, and has at the south end the dais,
already referi'ed to, which is raised about 2 feet. A doorway leading from
the dais gives access to the room over the dungeon, and to a small wheel-stair
leading to sevei'al rooms above. It is surprising to find that there is no fire-
place in the hall, but it is probably built up. It seems most likely that the
fireplace was in the south wall of the hall, the floor of which was of timber,
the cellars beneath not being vaulted ; but a space, 5 feet in^ bi'eadth, at
the south end, is covered with flagstones, apparently so as to form a fire-
proof hearth iiear the fireplace. The kitchen contains a large fireplace, with
drain and window.
The upper floors, which are reached by the two wheel-stairs, will be
easily understood from the Second and Third Floor Plans (see Fig. 422).
The south-west tower contains a vaulted story at a higher level than the
main building, and the north-east corner (Fig. 424) is also carried up as a
tower, and provided with a separate staircase. The south-west tower,
the top of which is inaccessible, had in all probability a battlemented
FOURTH PERIOD
494
LOCH RANZA CASTLE
walk, with the south-west angle carried up as a watch-turret ; indeed, the
holes for the escape of water from the walk are distinctly visible along the
north side.
Fordun, writing about the end of the fourteenth century or beginning
of the fifteenth (see Skeet's translation of Fordun, Vol. ii.) speaks of
"Arran, where are two royal castles — Brethwyk and Lochransie."
Shortly after that date it was held by John de Monteith, Lord of
Arran, who in 1433 conferred it, with the lands adjoining, on Sir Duncan
Campbell of Lochaw, fi-om whom are descended the Argyll family.
Between 1445 and 1450 Ronald M'Alister was keeper and tenant, and
Fig. 424.— Loch Rauza Castle. View from South-East.
by grant of James n. the castle and lands passed to Alexander, Lord
Montgomery, ancestor of the Earls of Eglinton. His grandson in 1488
was keeper of Brodick, and in the year following of Rothesay Castle.
It is thus evident that a castle must have existed here from an early
time ; but it is equally clear from its style that the existing structure was
erected subsequently to the above dates, although no record seems to be
preserved of the builder. It corresponds in style with Elcho Castle, Fordel
Castle, and similar structures of the latter half of the sixteenth century.
STAIR HOUSE
495 —
FOURTH PERIOD
CORSEHTLL CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A very ruinous mansion, near Stewarton, evidently of a late date. It
was the seat of the family of Cunningham, and was apparently on the
L Plan. A view of it, drawn in 1789, is given by Grose.
STAIR HOUSE, Ayrshire.
This intei'esting old mansion is pleasantly situated on a wide holm,
which occurs amidst the windings of the River Ayr, about eight miles up
from the town of Ayr. The property belonged to the Kennedies, and
" William de Dalrymple about 1450 acquired the lands of Stair-Mont-
gomerie with his wife, Agnes Kennedy." ^^33^^,^
Fie. 425. — Stair House. View from South-West.
There seems to be no record of the erection of the house, but fi'om its
pleasant and sheltered situation on the low ground, as well as from its
style, it is clearly not a very ancient structure. It is called Stair House,
not Castle, and has certainjy more of the character of a pleasant mansion
than of a fortress.
FOURTH PERIOD
496
AUCHINLECK CASTLE
James, fii'st Viscount Stair, was born in 1619. He was a man of talent
and distinction ; and besides being a soldier and philosopher, he became
President of the Court of Session. He lived till 1695. The style of the
house would perfectly correspond with a date within the long period of
his lifetime, although possibly some of the walls may be older.
Originally the house (Fig. 425) seems to have been a mansion designed on
the L Plan, with a round tower at the north-west angle and a square one at
Fig. 426. — Stair House. View from Nortli-West.
the diagonally opposite or south-east angle. The main body had the usual
vaulted ground floor, with the hall and other rooms on the first and second
floors. To this central block various additions have been made at difierent
times. One of these extends towards the east, and has a round tower
attached at the north-east angle (Fig. 426). Another is added towards the
south, and has a lower but very picturesque round tower at the south-west
angle. The whole of these erections combine to form a very pleasing and
picturesque example of a Scottish country house of the seventeenth century.
AUCHINLECK CASTLE, Ayrshire.
In this locality there are traces of four different buiklings, which have
at various times formed the residence of the proprietors, the ancient family
of Boswell of Auchinleck. There is, first, the fragment of an old keep
AUCIIINLECK CASTLE
497 —
FUUKTII PERIOD
figured by Grrose, then the seventeenth-century structure shown in Fig.
427,* which was superseded by the " handsome modern seat of James
Boswell, Esq.," visited by Dr. Johnson in 1773 ; and lastly, the existing
mansion erected by Lord Auchinleck in the beginning of this centuiy.
The mansion of the seventeenth century has evidently been a building
of the L Plan, with a tower in the re-entering angle, which appears to
have contained the entrance doorway and staircase. The top floor of the
tower was, as usual, a room which might be used as a watch tower. It
Fig. 427.— Auchinleck Castle.
had over the doorway a projecting defence, and at one of the corners
there appears to have been a small corbelled bow window, similar to one
shown in the view of a house in Elgin (to be afterwards given).
The tower was finished with a saddle-back roof and had gabled crow-
steps. The building was surrounded with a high wall, as seen on the left
of the Sketch, where also will be noticed one of the pillars of the entrance
gateway. Adjoining the " place " are, or were, the ruins of the more
ancient Castle of Auchinleck, which occupied a strong position on the
banks of the Lugar.
* From a View in the collection of the Royal Scottish Academy. It is dated
1789, being the year when Captain Grose visited Auchinleck.
2 I
FOURTH PERIOD 498 MAYBOLE CASTLE
MAYBOLE CASTLE, Ayrshire.
During the sixteenth century this edifice was the "town house"
of the Earl of Cassillis. Maybole was the capital of the district of
Oarrick, of which the earl was the hereditary chief ; and here, says
Abercrummie (the Episcopalian minister of " Minibole," "outed" at the
Revolution), " have been many pretty buildings belonging to the severall
gentry of the countrey, who were wont to, resort thither in winter, and
divert themselves in converse together at their owne houses. ... It hath
one principall street, with houses on both sydes built of freestone, and it is
beautifyed with the situation of two castles, one at each end of this street.
That on the east belongs to the Earle of Cassillis; beyond which, eastward,
stands a great new building, which be his granaries. On the West end is
a castle, which belonged sometime to the Laird of Blairquhan, which is
now the Tolbuith^ and is adorned with a pyramide, and a row of ballesters
round it, raised upon the top of the stairecase, into which they have
mounted a fyne clock." *
Besides these, tradition preserves the names of several other town
residences of the Lairds of Carrick, such as " the black house" of the
Kennedies of Knockdone ; the mansions of Sir Thomas Kennedy of
Culzean; of Kennedy of Ballimore ; the "White Horse Inn," formerly
belonging to the Lairds of Kilhenzie ; the " Garden of Eden," the residence
of the abbots of Crosraguel, and the house where Abbot Quentin Kennedy
and John Knox held their celebrated conference.!
Maybole also possessed a collegiate church, with a rector and three
prebends. The ruins of the church, a late Gothic structure, are still in
fair preservation, and have been used as the burial place of the Earls of
Cassillis and others.
This little town, which stands on a hillside sloping to the south, about
nine miles south from Ayr, may, from the above description and its actual
condition, be cited as a good example of the local centres or provincial
county towns of the period. Such centres were in those days, when roads
were bad and travelling dangerous, much more numerous than now, when
travelling is easy and rapid ; but few have preserved their pristine features
so little altered as Maybole. Here we still find the castle of the Lord of
the Railiery standing guard at the east end, and that of the Laird of
Blairquhan at the west end of the main street (although the town has
extended beyond them), while the ruins of the College Kirk nestle quietly
in the centre. A few old houses are also still traceable here and there,
but they are fast disappearing.
The castle of Maybole is evidently a structure of the Fourth Period.
* A View of this tower will be given in Vol. iv., along with the other Tolbooths.
t Historic of the Kennedies, p. 175.
MAYBOLE CASTLE — 499 FOURTH PERIOD
Its south gable fronts the principal street. The plan (Fig. 428) is of the
simple quadrilateral form, with a square projection at the south-west angle
containing the principal stair, which ascends to near the top, where the
turret is corbelled out in the usual manner and formed into a handsome
prospect room, with a bow window to the west (Fig. 429). The entrance
from the sti-eet was doubtless on the west side of the castle, where a gate-
way in a high wall would lead into a paved courtyard. From this the
principal doorway opened into the castle in the re-entering angle of the
turret ; but this part of the building is now concealed by modern additions.
The basement is vaulted, and the first floor contained the hall, which was
31 feet by 18 feet, but is now somewhat altered. It is lighted by two large
windows to the east, overlooking the garden, and one to the south fronting
the street, and there have also been two windows on the west side. The
windows have probably been enlarged. The walls are 4 feet in thickness.
The upper floors contain the usual bedrooms, with dressing-closets in the
angle turrets. As above remarked, the top story of the staircase turret is
Fig. 428.— Maybole Castle. Plan of First Floor.
a very pleasant and cheerful room. The wooden panelling of the walls still
remains, and a deep arched alcove contains the picturesque bow window.
This is one of the few examples in our Scottish edifices of that charming
feature of English architecture, and, together with the large size of the angle
turrets, the oi'namental and remarkable form of the dormers, and the en-
riched chimney -heads (Fig. 430), clearly point to a late date — probably about
the same as Huntly Castle, or the first quarter of the seventeenth century.
At the commencement of that century the earldom was possessed by John,
fifth earl, who was much engaged in local feuds in Ayrshire and Galloway,
including that in which the young Laird of Bargany was slain. (See
Ardstinchar Castle.) He died in 1615, and was succeeded by his
nephew, John, sixth earl, eldest son of Gilbert, Master of Cassillis. He
was a person of virtue and distinction, and rose to be President of the
FOURTH PERIOD
500
MAYBOLE CASTLE
— - m "~,#''Ni''iii iii'i I ■ I, i| nil "]k-
Fio. 429.— Maybole Castle. View from South-West.
MAYBOLE CASTLE
501
FOURTH PERIOD
Fio. 430.— Maybole Castle. View from North- East.
FOURTH PERIOD 502 BALTERSAN CASTLE
Court. In 1649 lie was sent by the Estates to confer with (Jharles ii. in
Holland, and at the Restoration was appointed Extraordinary Lord of
Session. His death occurred in 1668.* From his date and character, it
is almost certain that we owe the fine work at Maybole and the restoration
at Cassillis to this earl. The castle of Maybole has been enlarged in recent
years, and is now occupied by Lord Ailsa's factor.
Of the town house of the Laird of Blairquhan, above described by
Abercrummie, little now remains beyond the staircase tower, with its
"pyramide" raised upon the top, and the "fyne clock." The top story,
with the pointed and cusped windows, was probably added late in the
seventeenth century, and, from Abercrummie's account, it seems then to
have had a parapet, with "a row of ballesters round it." The battlement
we now see is of comparatively recent origin, and the structure has other-
wise undergone so many alterations that little of the original is left. The
tower, however, forms one of a series of Scottish tolbooth, or town-hall
steeples (several of which will be illustrated in the next volume), and is
thus of considerable interest.
BALTERSAN CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A mansion, built on a modification of the L Plan, situated about one
mile west from Maybole. This was the residence of Egidia Blair, Lady
Row, who died at Baltersan in 1530. Her will was confirmed by the
riRST FLOOR PlAfs
Pig. 431.— Baltersan Castle. Plan of First Floor.
Archbishop of Glasgow, from which it may be inferred that the place then
belonged to the Abbey of Crosraguel.
* Paterson's History of Ayrxhire, Vol. ti. p. 286.
BALTERSAN CASTLE
503 —
POUKTII PERIOD
Towards the end of the sixteenth century it had liecome tlie property
of the family of the Kennedies of Baltersan, the Lands of Baltersan having
been disponed by Allan Stewart, commendator of Crosraguel in 1 574, to
David Kennedy of Penyglen, by whom the existing house is said to have
been erected. This family were also the proprietors of Greenan Castle,
near Ayr, and were mixed up Avith the feuds between the Karl of Cassillis
Pig. 432.— Baltersan Castle. View from North-West.
and the Lairds of Bargany and Colzean. The main building (Fig. 431) is
52 feet long by 28 feet wide, with walls about 4 feet in thickness. The
entrance is in the re-entering angle of the tower, in which there is, as
usual, a wide staircase, which goes as high as the second door. Above
this there were rooms in the tower, which is finished in a picturesque
manner (Fig. 432), with an overhanging story supported on continuous
FOURTH PERIOD
504
PINVVHERRY CASTLE
corbellings, and furnished with a square projecting window, boldly
corbelled out, and provided with shot-holes in the sides of the projection.
The stair to the upper floors is in a corbelled turret, which in this instance
is square, not rounded in the ordinary manner.
The ground floor is, as usual, vaulted, and contained the kitchen and
cellars. The hall occupies the first floor, and is 36 feet long by 19 feet
wide. It was lighted by windows on three sides, two of them provided
with stone seats, and was well furnished with closets ofi" the apartment.
In the space to the south of the kitchen vent a small private stair con-
ducts to the upper floors. Near the ceiling of the hall there is a spy-hole
from this stair commanding the hall. High windows are introduced over
closets, &c., after the manner of eai"lier times. The upper floors are now
gone, but they have evidently been two in number, the top story being
lighted with dormers, and some of the angles provided with turrets.
This is a good example of a thoroughly Scottish mansion of the Fourth
Period. In the description of Carrick by Mr. William Abercrummie,
minister of Maybole, written towards the close of the seventeenth
century, Baltersan is described as "a stately fyne house, with gardens,
orchards, parks, and woods about it " ; but these unfortunatoly are now
all gone, and the castle stands deserted in the middle of a corn-field.
PINWHERRY CASTLE, Ayrshire.
A castle, situated on a gentle eminence in the valley of the Stinchar, near
its junction with the Muick Water, and not far from Pinwherry Railway
^^^m
r^
>
■^^ ■
GROUnD FLO
H^
JH 1-4^4
Fig. 433.— Pinwherry Castle. Plans.
Station. It is of the L Plan (Fig. 433), and measures about 35 feet from
north to south over the wing, by about 30 feet from east to west. The
entrance doorway is in the east face of the re-entering angle. It is now
PINWUERRY CASTLE
505
FOURTH PERIOD
very much broken down, and is provided with a bar-hole and ambry for a
lamp. The staircase, now destroyed, was in the wing, and stops as usual
at the first floor, the space above forming rooms.
From the first floor level the ascent is continued in a square projecting
turret (Fig. 435). A narrow private stair leads from the ground floor to
the first floor. The latter contains the hall, measuring about 25 feet by 16
feet. It has a large fireplace in the centre of the north side, with one
window adjoining it ; two windows in the south side, one of them being
high above the floor (Fig. 434) ; and one in each end, the east one
Fig. 434.— Pinwherry Castle. View from South- West.
being a high w^indow. There was probably an enclosure to the north,
in continuation of the west wall, where tusked stones are seen in the
View (Fig. 435).
From Paterson's Families of Ayrshire, Vol. I, p. 312, we learn that
" Pinquharrie " belonged in the sixteenth century to one of the numerous
bi'anches of the Kennedies. The first is Johnne Kennedie of Banquharrie,
of date 1596-7. The last of the branch was Thomas Kennedy, who
" deceissit October 1644." Four years later John, Earl of Carrick,
was retoured in the lands of Pinquharrie, since which date the place
FOURTH PERIOD
— 506
GALDKNOCH CASTLE
Fig. 435. — Pinwherry Castle. View from North-East.
has passed through various hands. It is evidently a structure of the
Fourth Period.
GALDENOCH CASTLE, Wigtonshirk.
Situated about seven miles north-west from Stranraer, this ruin (Fig.
436) stands secluded in a hollow dell, through which a winding burn
DUNSKEY CASTLE
— 507 —
POUIITH PERIOD
hurries on to the not far distant sea. The building, which is in a very
dilapidated condition, is of the L Plan, and contains the usual arrange-
ments—viz., the door in the re-entering angle, a vaulted ground floor, and
a main stair in the wing to the first and second floors, with a corbelled
turret stair in the angle leading to the upper floor and attic. The castle is
valuable as exhibiting an unaltered example of a style of crow-steps
Fig. 436.— Galdeiioch Castle. View from South-West.
peculiar to Galloway, of which restored specimens are to be seen at
Mochrum. The crow-steps are built of small stones, which are protected
on the top with a large thin slate.
Galdenoch Castle was built by Gilbert Agnew, second son of Andrew
Agnew of Lochnaw, between the years 1547 and 1570. It has evidently
been abandoned for many years.
DUNSKEY CASTLE, Wigtonshiee.
'I'his rugged and ruinous pile is situated near the town of Port-
patrick, on a wild rocky site overlooking the sea. The rock on which
it stands is cut ofi" by deep ravines, both on the north and south sides
FOURTH PERIOD
508 —
DUNSKEY CASTLE
Fio. 437.— Dunskey Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
DUNSKEY CASTLE
509
FOURTH PERIOD
of the castle. Along the north there is no passage, the wall coming
up to the very edge of the rock ; while at the south one can only
scramble round. The rock projects westwards from the castle towards
the sea for about forty paces, forming a courtyard, the precipitous face
of which afforded absolute protection. The position of the castle stretch-
ing across the neck of the rock is thus very strong, and is still further
strengthened and secured towards the east by a moat, about fourteen paces
wide, running along the outer or landward side of the castle. Across
this moat an embankment now leads to the entrance gateway, through
which a wide passage conducts under part of the buildings to the court-
yard. This gateway is the only opening near the ground level, and it was
secured by a sliding-bar. In its situation and mode of access Dunskey
Castle has thus a considerable resemblance to Ravenscraig Castle in Fife,*
and numerous other castles on the east coast.
The main building is of the L Plan (Fig. 437), with a tower containing
Fig. 438.— Dunskey Castle. Plan of First Floor.
the entrance from the courtyard in the re-entering angle, and having a long
narrow wing extending northwards, so that the whole structure presents
an unbroken front of 100 feet towards the land. In the entrance passage
there is a stone seat, and a guardroom enters from each side. The whole
of the ground floor is vaulted. The doorway leads by a wide passage
to what has been a handsome scale and platt stair in the main wing
of the L, leading to the first floor, where, in the usual manner, it ter-
minates, access to the upper floors having been obtained by a wheel-stair
in the tower of the re-entering angle. Adjoining the passage at the
entrance door is another central passage lighted by an end window, which
gives access to various cellars, the largest one having also a private stair
in the thickness of the wall leading up to the hall. Under the outside
wall of this cellar, and partly in the moat — visible only from the outside —
is the well, as shown on Plan. It does not, however, seem to have been
accessible from the inside of the castle.
The cellars in the south-west wing are long and narrow, being divided
* Vol. I. p. 538.
FOURTH PERIOD
510
DUNSKEY CASTLE
by the walls which supported the steps of the main stair. A service
window opens from the centre passage into the stair passage, but there
does not appear to have been any kitchen on the ground fiooi', nor indeed
anywhere in the castle.
Adjoining the entrance door is a cellar entering only from the
courtyard. Tliere is a peculiar enclosure in this room (shown on Plan),
partly sunk into the wall and partly projecting into the apartment, but it
is now so broken down as to give no clue to its purpose. Near the north
Fig. 439.— Dunskey Castle. View from South- West.
end a narrow passage, 3 feet 3 inches wide, goes from the front to the back
wall, but not through to the moat ; entering from this passage is the
northmost cellar, which is perfectly dark.
The first floor consists of two large rooms (Fig. 438), entering the one
through the other. The first room or hall is about 36 feet 8 inches long by
17 feet wide ; it has a fireplace 14 feet 4 inches wide by 33 inches deep, with
a window looking towards the sea. This room is well lighted, having three
windows towards the land, the centre one being at a high level, another
window in the south end, besides a high window adjoining the fireplace
STRANRAER CASTLE 511 FOURTH PERIOD
looking northwards. The adjoining room in the north wing is long and
narrow, measuring about 47 feet by 10 feet 6 inches. It is also well lighted,
and has one fireplace in the south end. The turret stair to the upper floor
and attics is entered both from the hall and from the stair-landing. The
upper floors are quite ruinous ; they were divided into smaller rooms
entering one through the other.
Some ruinous walls, probably of outhouses, are traceable at various
places in the courtyard (as shown on Plan, Fig. 437).
The castle has been badly abused ; all the dressed stones in the
building, such as those round doors and windows, having been ruthlessly
torn out (Fig. 439). This gives the structure a very rugged, gloomy
appearance. Above the entrance doorway three panels for coats of arms
still remain intact, but without the arms.
In Lands and their Owners Dunskey is said to have been built by
William or Ninian Adair in the early years of the sixteenth century.
And "in 1508 one Makkenzie had a remission for 'art and part of the
fire-raising and of burning of Dunskey.' " Symson, in his History of
Galloway, written in 1648, says that it was wholly ruinous then. The
present structui'e was probably rebuilt after the above destruction.
The Castle of Dunskey or Portree, as it is sometimes called, referred
to in the Sheriffs of Galloway under date 1330, seems to have been an
earlier structure on the same site.
STRANRAER CASTLE, Wigtonshire.
This is a conspicuous object in distant views of the town, and is seen
rising above all the surrounding houses. These hem it in closely on all
sides, so much so that the building is somewhat difiicult to get at, and can
1
Pig. 440. — Stranraer Ca.stlc. Plan of Fir.st Floor.
FOURTH PERIOD
512
STRANRAER CASTLE
only be seen from the back gardens of the adjoining houses. As will be
seen from Fig. 441, the castle has been heightened, probably in the seven-
teenth century, in a fantastic but picturesque manner. These alterations
took place when the structure was converted into the town jail. The
original building is of the ordinary type of the castles of Galloway, but
of greater passive strength than many. It is nearly square on plan (Fig.
Fio. 441. — Stianiaer Castle. View from South-West.
440), measuring about 36 feet by 29 feet over the walls, with a staircase
turret projecting 5 feet at the north-west corner, which is carried up
to the top. The cellars are vaulted, and have very massive walls.
The first floor is also vaulted. It will be observed that the north wall
is of great thickness, and contains a considerable entresol mural chamber.
CARSLEUTH CASTLE 513 FOURTH PERIOD
about 21 feet long by 6 feet wide. Leading off the hall itself are several
smaller mural closets, and of these several also occur on the other floors.
The history of the building does not appear to have been investigated,
and almost nothing is chronicled regarding it. It is said to have been
called "Chappel," and to have been the residence of the Kennedies of
Chappel.
From the continuous corbelling of the parapet, the large bead on the
windows, and other details, it is pl'obably a building of the sixteenth
century.
CARSLEUTH CASTLE, Kirkcudbrightshire.
This structure stands on the sea shore, about three and a half miles
from Creetown, and quite close to the public road which runs from that
town to Gatehouse.
The castle is low lying, and is in no way remarkable for strategic posi-
tion. It was formerly, however (as we find from Lands and their Owners),
protected by "a pond," which covered its landward front. This has
now been filled up, and converted into a garden.
Pio. 442.— Carsleuth Castle. Plan of First Floor.
The building is of the L Plan (Fig. 442), with the doorway in the
re-entering angle facing the east. The staircase is in the wing, and the
usual arrangements in houses of this class are observed in the interior,
with nothing calling for very special remark. The windows of the first
floor (Fig. 443) have good projecting bead and hollow mouldings, as like-
wise has the hall fireplace. There is a garde-robe in the north-west angle
of the hall, and a stone sink in the south-west angle, with a drain
through the west wall.
From the corbels at the eaves of the north front, which are of an
earlier form than the corbelling of the east side, and from other indica-
2 K
FOURTH PERIOD
— 514
CARSLEUTII CASTLE
tions, it would seem that this building was originally a simple oblong, and
that the wing has been a subsequent addition. The old corbels would
support the original parapet wall, now removed. The original staircase
would be in the north-west angle, where a portion of the circular wall for
the stair is still observable in the garde-robe afterwards formed.
Fia. 443.— Carsleuth Castle. View from North-East.
The way in which the projecting top story of the wing runs into an
old window recess, and the manner in which a small window is inserted
in the same recess, distinctly point to the wing being an after-thought,
constructed in order to provide the more handsome staircase to the first
floor, considered requisite in later times. The projecting and sloping
stones at the eaves over the entrance doorway are intended to serve as a
PARK HOUSE
— 515 —
FOURTH PERIOD
gutter to protect the doorway froiB rain. The upper projecting string-
course of the wing beneath the gable is moulded with a late bead and
hollow moulding. The chimney-cope
above is ornamented with a grotesque
crouching figure.
In the panel over the doorway
(Fig. 444) are the arms of the Brown
family (a chevron between three
fleurs-de-lis), the letter B., and a
now illegible motto on a round fillet,
with the date 1568 above.
The early history of this building
given in Lands and their Owners is
evidently erroneous. It is rightly
said to have belonged to a family
named Brown, " who were settled at
and resident in Carsleuth in the four-
teenth century," but we cannot agree
with the reason given, which is as fol-
lows: "This appears from the armorial
bearings over the door, with the date
1364, which it is supposed is the date
of settlement on the land (as stated by
Tytler), under the Act of Parliament
at Perth, of 13th January of that
year, by which many followers of
Baliol were restored, in order to sup-
port David II. against his rebellious
subjects. Underneath, 1581 is also
engraved, which probably relates to
the completion of the buildmg." We
did not observe the date 1581 be-
neath, but only that of 1568 above
mentioned. The older oblong keep is probably a structure of the fifteenth
century, while the wing is obviously a late sixteenth-century addition.
The edifice as it now stands is thus a structure of the Fourth Period,
Fio. 444.— Carsleuth Castle.
Arms over Entrance Doorway.
PARK HOUSE, WiGTONSHIRE.
An old mansion, situated on lofty ground adjoining the village of
Glenluce, with a view northwards towards the Abbey. About 40 or 50
yards to the north and west, and at a greater distance towards the east, the
FOURTH PERIOD 516 — PARK HOUSE
ground falls very rapidly, while towards the south it rises. The building
Fig. 445.— Park House. Plan of Ground Floor.
is of the L Plan (Fig. 445), and has a very lofty and striking appearance,
which is greatly favoured by its commanding site, and by contrast with
Fig. 446.— Park House. View from North-East.
PAKK HOUSE
517
FOURTH PERIOD
the foi'mal, low two storey ed wings, built at a later date on the south and
north sides (Kig. l-tG). The building measures about 44 feet 6 inches
fLiSSlT-ISETHENAMEOFTHgLOReilJlS
I VERKVASgLVIIT MARCH
Pig. 447. — Park House. Inscription over Doorway.
by 26 feet 9 inches, or about 39 feet over the south-east wing. The
entrance door is in the re-entering angle, with a wide scale and platt stair
Fig. 448.— Park House. View from South- West.
FOURTH PERIOD
518 —
SORBIE CASTLE
in the wing. A passage leads to the kitchen, which is situated at the
north end, and in which there is a fine fireplace, measuring about 13 feet
by 7 feet, provided with a drain, and with a window at the one side.
Entering off the fireplace is a closet, measuring about 5 feet square,
lighted with two small windows. The remainder of this floor is occupied
with cellars, and is all vaulted. The upper floors contain large and hand-
some rooms, with panelled walls, and are intact, the place being still
inhabited by workmen. Over the doorway is the following inscription,
which is fairly legible (see Fig. 447) : —
BLISSIT.BE.THE.NAME. OF. THE. LORD. THIS
VERK.VAS.BEGVIT[.THE. — DAY. OF.] MARCH.
1590. BE. THOMAS. HAY. OP. PARK. AND
lONET.MAK.DOVEL.HIS.SPOUS.
The staircase wing is finished with crow-stepped gables, between which
and the main roof a gutter is formed, having a projecting gargoyle to the
exterior (Fig. 448), an arrangement which is common in houses of this period.
Thomas Hay's father was the first of the name in Park. He is
believed to have been either a younger son of the Hays of Dalgetty in
Aberdeenshire or of the Lochloy branch in Nairnshire. He was
appointed Abbot of Glenluce in 1559 by Pius iv. Having afterguards
joined the Reformation party, he is said to have married a daughter
of Kennedy of Bargany.
HHI^^^I
■ '
^^n FIREPLACE
1
1 KITCHEN
1 -
I^H VALILT-
1
_
^^"
1
■^
I^H
PVHI
■
1
1 1
^^ SMALL
VAULT ^^H
HIKJH^^
Fig. 449.— Sorbie Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
SORBIE CASTLE
— 519 —
FOURTH PERIOD
SORBIE CA8TLE,* Wigtonshire.
A ruin situated about six or seven miles south from the county town.
It is in a state of great dilapidation, and is entirely uncared for ; but it
has been a structure of considei-able consequence, and apparently defended
by a moat or artificial mound. It is of the L Plan (Fig. 449), measuring
on the two longest sides about i 1 feet by 40 feet. The entrance is in the
re-entering angle in the wing, which also contains the stair (a scale and platt
one) to the first floor. The ground floor, which is vaulted, contains the usual
Fig. 450.— Sorbie Castle. View.
characteristic arrangements of this period — viz., a passage, from which the
vaults are entered, leading to the kitchen, which occupies the full width
of the end of the main block. The kitchen, in the gable, is furnished
with a large arched fireplace, which measures about 17 feet by 5 feet, and
has a small window on one side, with a recess on the other. The kitchen
measures about 17 feet by 8 feet, and is well lighted by a window on
each side. The various partitions on the ground floor are greatly broken
down. There have been at least three upper floors, approached by the
* The Plan of this castle has been kindly supplied by William Galloway, Esq.,
architect.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 520 —
BARHOLM CASTLE
turret stair in the re-entering angle (Fig. 450), but they are now veiy
ruinous.
The lands of Sorbie were in the possession of the Hannays fi'om the
beginning of the sixteenth century till the latter part of the seventeenth ;
and although no positive information appears to be extant as to the date
of the erection of the castle, it may conhdently be set down to the middle
of the Fourth Pei'iod.
BARHOLM CASTLE, Kirkcudbrightshire.
A mansion, situated a little inland from the sea, about midway
between Gatehouse and Creetown. It is a small structure (Fig. 451) of
the L Plan, with the usual features of the seventeenth-century castles,
Fig. 451.- Barholm Castle. Plan of First Floor.
having the main staircase in the wing up to the second story, above which
a turret stair leads to the upper floors (Fig. 454). The lintels of two of the
staircase windows are peculiar, and are shown in Sketch (Fig. 452). The
design of the entrance doorway (Fig. 453) is still more remarkable, with its
Fio. 452.— Barholm Castle.
Lintels of Staircase Windows.
Fig. 453.— Barholm Castle.
Entrance Doorway.
EARLSTON CASTLE
— 521
FOURTH PEKIOn
cable moulding tied in a knot at each end, and the masks and the grotesque
animal introduced in the arch mouldings. The Castle of Carsleuth, in the
same neighbourhood, has likewise some grotesque carving— probably the
efforts of a local sculptor.
Fig. 454.— Barholm Castle. View ft-oni South-West.
The ground floor is vaulted, and the floor above, which is the one
shown in the Plan, contains only one room, with a fireplace in the side
wall. This apartment measures about 28 feet by 16 feet. Barholm
was in the possession of the M'Culloch family from early in the sixteenth
century.
EARLSTON CASTLE, Kirkcudbrightshire.
This building, situated in an upland district between Dairy and
Carsphairn, stands in a little hollow, and is not visible from any distance.
It is now in a sadly ruinous state, but in its day it has been a small mansion-
house on the L Plan (Fig. 455), which some later additions converted into
a house with a courtyard. The entrance is in the re-entering angle, and leads
directly to the staircase, which is situated in the south wing. This principal
FOURTH PERIOD
— 522
EARLSTON CASTLE
stair terminates at the first floor, from whence a wheel-stair in the angle
turret (Fig. 456) led upwards, thus allowing rooms to be introduced in the
upper floors of the wing. The ground floor contains two apartments, and
is vaulted. The upper floors, which are in a dangerous state, have been
finished in a style of unusual elegance. The woodwork of the panelling of
the walls, fireplaces, and cornices, although on a small scale, has been
very fine, the details, which are of a Renaissance character, being wrought
with great delicacy. It is to be regretted that this work has been allowed
to fall into such a state of decay, and that within recent years, as people
not yet old, who were born in the house, remember it in perfect preserva-
tion. The additions on the east side were connected with the tower by
doorways slapped through the walls. They are now roofless, and the walls
are mostly all knocked down. The kitchen was in this part of the building.
Fig. 455.— Earlstou Castle, Plan of Ground Floor.
The well is situated at the south-east side of the courtyard. At present a
small stream runs into the well. The windows of the main building have
back fillets, with bead mouldings round them. These and the other details
show that the structure is of very late date.
From Lands and their Otvners we learn that Earlston belonged in the
sixteenth century to a family of Sinclairs, supposed to be from Berwick-
shire. Notices of them in connection with this place are to be found
from the middle of that century, and they are believed to have built the
original tower, on which their arms once existed over the doorway. In
1615 Alexander Gordon of Airds married Margaret, daughter of John
Sinclair, and with her obtained the estate, after which it became the
residence of the Gordons.
The east wing was built by William Gordon, who married Mary Hope,
BARSCOBE HOUSE
— 523 —
FOURTH PERIOD
second daughter of Sir John Hope of Craigiehall, President of the Court
of Session. A wedge-shaped stone in the front wall of the east wing,
pierced by a round hole, contains their initials, with the date 1655 (see
Fig. 456).
Pio. 456. — Earlston Castle. View from South-East.
William Gordon was educated for the Church, but he took to soldiering
under David Leslie and Lord Glencairn, and was ultimately killed at
Bothwell Brig. After this Earlston was garrisoned by troops engaged in
suppressing the Covenanters.
BARSCOBE HOUSE, Kirkcudbkiuhtshire.
Situated about three miles north-east from New Galloway, this
is an interesting example of the kind of house which gradually
FOURTH PERIOD
— 524
BA.KSCOBE IIOUSK
evolved itself out of the old pele tower towards the end of the seven-
teenth century, and shows the extent of the accommodation which was
Fig. 457.— Barscobe House. View from .South-East.
then considered sufficient for a country laird (Fig. 457). It is L-shaped
on plan, and shows almost no deviation from the arrangements of the
earlier structures of this pattern, the door
being in the re-entering angle and the stair
in the wing. The elevation, however, shows
a few changes from the old design. The
gables are no longer finished with simple
crow-steps, but with a novel and ornamental
form of skews. The parapet has entirely
disappeared, and the dormers have become
simple attic windows in the roof (Fig. 458).
This place belonged to the Maclellans of
Bomby, once an important family in Gal-
loway; and the house appears to have been
built by William Maclellan, whose initials,
with those of his wife, together with their
arms and the date 1648, occur over the doorway, and are shown in Fig.
Fig. 458. — Barscobe House. Dormer.
GOGAR HOUSE
525
FOURTH PERIOD
459. His wife was a Gordon ; but whetlier slie was Mary, daughter of
Sir Robert Gordon of Lochinvai*, or Margaret, daugliter
of John Gordon of Airds, is not known. William
Gordon was succeeded by his son Robert in 1664. He
took a prominent part in the cause of the Covenanters.
In 1799 the lands passed out of the possession of the
Maclellans ; but their house is still inhabited, and, with
ordinary care, may last for centuries to come. The
initials W. M. G. and the date are repeated on the
tympanum of the dormer windows (see Fig. 458).
Fig. 459. — Barscobe House.
Arms over Doorway.
GOGAR HOUSE, Midlothian.
A well-preserved mansion, exhibiting some of the modifications of the
traditional plan which were adopted in the later buildings of the Fourth
Period. Thus, although the Plan (Fig. 460) may be regarded as founded on
Fio. 460.— Gogar House.- Plan of First Floor.
the L form, with entrance door and staircase turret in the re-entering angle,
the notch cut out of the north-east angle, and the large round tower adjoin-
ing, are deviations from the usual arrangement; otherwise, the accom-
FOURTH PERIOD
— 526
GOGAR HOUSE
GOGAR HOUSE
527 —
FOURTH PERIOD
FOURTH PERIOD — 528 — INCH HOUSE
modation is as usual. On the ground floor the kitchen, with large chimney,
occupied the north-west block, and the cellars (one of which had the usual
private stair communicating with the private room in the tower) occupied the
south-east block. On the first floor, the hall or dining-room (40 feet by 19
feet) was situated in the south-east block, and the drawing-room (24 feet by
19 feet) in the north-west block. The former had a small private room off
it in the round tower, and a private staircase in the south-east angle turret
led to the family bedroom above. The interior of the principal rooms has
now been somewhat modified by the alterations shown in hatched lines.
The bow window looking to the north (Fig. 461) is also modern. The
elevations are little changed, and present an excellent example of a
Scottish manor house of the time of King James vi. The entrance front
(Fig. 462), with its octagonal tower corbelled out in a very peculiar
manner, and its quaint dormers, is particularly striking. One of the
latter contains the monogram of the initials I. C. and H. S., which are
found singly in the dormers of the north and east fronts, together with
the date 1626.
The lands of Gogar were purchased in the sixteenth century from
Robert Logan of Restalrig, to whom they then belonged, by Adam Cowper,
one of the Clerks of Session, whose title was ratified in 1601. The house
was built by his son John, whose initials, with those of his wife, are carved,
as above mentioned, in various places on the building. During the
eighteenth century the estate was in the hands of the family of Myreton,
by whom the handsome wrought-iron gates, which still hang in the gate-
way at the entrance to the avenue, were probably erected.
INCH HOUSE, Midlothian.
A mansion situated just beyond the southern suburbs of Edinburgh.
The house occupies a low-lying situation, the park surrounding it having
at an earlier period been covered with water, above which the site of the
house stood as an island or inch. Before a system of drainage was per-
fected, and even down to 1760, according to the Rev. Mr. White, in Yol. i.
of the Transactions of the Antiquarian Society, the floods surrounding
the inch caused considerable inconvenience. In ancient times, entrance
was effected by means of a drawbridge. The building has had various
additions made to it. The oldest part is tinted black on the Plan
(Fig. 463). The next part, lying on the north-east, is shown cross-
hatched. Then follow the outbuildings, having an entrance archway and
the north range, and lastly, an incongruous modern house has been added
to the old mansion.
The original structure is of the L Plan, measuring about 50 feet from
north to south, by 55 feet 6 inches from east to west, with a square tower
INCH HOUSE
529 —
FOURTH PERIOD
in the re-entering angle containing the staircase, and the original entrance
doorway (shown enlarged in Fig. 4G4) having wide moulded jambs, and a
pediment bearing the date of erection, 1617. The staircase gives access to
the three upper floors, above which a turret stair (see Fig. 464), projecting
in the south-east angle of the tower, leads to the top, from which a good
view of the surrounding country is obtained, including such castles as
Edinburgh, Craigmillar, Liberton, and Mei-chiston. ''But .the design of
Fig. 463, — Inch House. Plan of Ground Floor.
it," says Mr. White, "was not solely for a prospect, but to enable the
proprietor to defend himself more effectually, and ward off the assaults
of his enemies." The ground floor of the ancient part is vaulted, and
contains a kitchen and cellars, in which various partitions have been
erected, and doors slapped out and built up as required at different times.
The second building — viz., the low wing on the north-east, cross-hatched
on Plan — was built seventeen years later than the main building, being
dated 1634 (see Fig. 464). It is two stories high, with a separate stair
2 L
FOURTH PERIOD __ ^oq
to the upper floor. When first
INCH HOUSE
courtyard, but it is now connected hrfrl'v'* ^"J"'''' '^^'"'^^^ ^^^'^^ t^^e
^-^-s_ connected by a lobby with the old entrance door-
1
^/^(^!^?
Jk M ^ -
^^4
ENTRANCE DOORWAY
Fia. 464.-Inch House. View from North-West
BAVELAW CASTLE 531 FOURTH PERIOD
Incli House has a considerable resemblance to Gogar House, just
described, which is about six miles distant, the details of the corbelling of
the square tower being the same in both, and the dormer windows (see
Fig. 464) being also very similar in design. They are both likewise
on the L Plan, with a tower in the re-entering angle, and they were built
within a few years of each other, the date of Gogar being 1625.
The mansion of Inch was built by a family of the name of Winram,
who carried as arms — gules, a ram passant, argent. The gablets of the
three dormer windows facing the court (Fig. 464 shows two of these
windows) bear the following letters : — the northmost one has the initials
I. W., probably for John Winram; and the southmost bears I. S., probably
for his wife ; while on the centre are the combined letters I. W. S. , with the
date 1634. On one of the dormers of the main building, erected seventeen
years earlier, there is carved on a shield a serpent twisting round an upright
arrow, with the explanatory motto, Festina lente — " Use despatch, but
cautiously." Besides these details, some old internal features still exist,
such as doors, and a fine example of a closing shutter for the lower part of
a window instead of glass, with a carved transome. The Winrams had
considei'able possessions in Liberton parish, from which they have now quite
disappeared. They were succeeded by the ancestors of the present pro-
prietor, R. Gordon Gilmour, Esq. of Craigmillar, whose predecessors left
the latter castle to reside at the Inch. From a statement made by Mr.
White (p. 334), we infer that during his time the place must have fallen
into disrepair, for he says, " Were it kept in good order, it is far from
being inconsiderable."
BAVELAW CASTLE.
This house occupies a lofty situation on the northern slope of the
Pentland Hills, about nine miles west from Edinburgh. It evidently dates
from the seventeenth century. The farmer who lives in it states that
it was in a state of ruin about the beginning of this century, when it was
in a great measure rebuilt. There can, however, be no doubt but that the
house belongs substantially to the period above named.
It is on the L Plan (Fig. 467), with a small additional wing at the
south-east angle. The ground floor is vaulted, and in the maiil portion
of the house is the kitchen, with a fine arched fireplace and window
adjoining. The entrance is from the east side into the wheel-staircase, the
space for which is taken out of the room in the north wing. From the
entrance passage doors with splayed rybats lead into the kitchen and the
north wing, and a similar door formerly led by a passage (now thrown into
the kitchen) to the south tower. A similar arrangement continues to the
FOURTH PERIOD
— 532 —
BAVELAW CASTLE
BONHARD
533
FOURTH PERIOD
top of the house. The elevations (Figs. 4G5 and iQQ) are characteristic of
a Scottish house of a late date.
GROUND
Fig. 4(37.— Bavelaw Castle. Plaus of Ground Floor and First Floor.
In noticing this place in the Caledoma, Chalmers mentions that "it is
said to have been a hunting-seat of the James's."
BONHARD, Linlithgowshire.
The old house of Bonhard stands about two miles north from
Linlithgow, on the rising ground which separates the Linlithgow valley
from the Frith of Forth.
Notwithstanding the old-world air about the house, it is quite modern
in its arrangements, and retains none of the defensive features which
frequently prevailed till a late period in Scotland. The walls are about
3 feet thick, and the rooms are provided with fairly large windows. The
house is of the L Plan (Fig. 468), with an octagonal staircase turret in the
re-entering angle, in which also is the original entrance (Fig. 469). The
present entrance door in the south front is an alteration, being merely an
old window opened out to form a door. The kitchen is in the north wing,
but has long been disused, and is now shut up. The other portions of tho
FOURTH PERIOD
— 534
BON HARD
house on the ground floor and first floor are used by the families of farm
labourers, while the top floor and attics are closed. From the entrance door
a small lobby led into the kitchen, and another small passage gave access
to the dining-room at the south-west angle, to a small central room (now a
lobby), and to the south-east room. The first of these apartments was
called, as we find from an inventory of furniture, the " Laigh Dineing-
room." Between it and the kitchen there is a kind of service room, which
probably was provided with a service window into the kitchen. This ser-
vice room had a door leading out to the old garden on the west side of the
house. The south-east room was probably a private room.
The first floor is divided into three handsome rooms with finely panelled
ceilings, each of a different design, and ornamental fireplaces with stone
and wooden mouldings, and pilastered panel above the mantelpiece (Fig.
Fig. 468.— Bonhard. Plan of Ground Floor.
470). These finishings, together with the wooden panelling of the walls,
impart to the house an air of antique refinement, which is frequently
wanting in the interior of many of our old mansions.
To the east of the house stands an old dovecot, in the western gable of
which is inserted a stone panel (Fig. 471), containing all the lettered and
heraldic history now to be found at Bonhard of the old family of Cornwall,
proprietors of the place for many generations. Not much can be made
out from it at first sight, but on careful examination the Cornwall arms,
impaled with the arms of a branch of the Seaton family, can be satis-
factoi-ily traced, above which is the motto "we. beig. ze. se. varle"
(we build ye see warily), with the date 1591 and the initials N. C,
and M. S.
The late Mr. Stodart, in Miscellanea Genealogica et Heraldica,
BONHARD
— 535 —
FOURTH PERIOD
FOURTH PERIOD
536 —
BONIIARD
1877, identified the N. C as the initials of Nicholas Cornwall ; and
knowing that he had a second wife named Margai'et Stewart, Mr. Stodart
concluded that the second initials were hers ; and the impaled arms being
somewhat worn, he believed them to be those of Stewart. The only
explanation that suggests itself is that Nicholas was thrice married, and
that his third wife was a Seaton. His first wife was Agnes Halkheid.
Nicholas Cornwall succeeded in 1578 ; and we find from his tombstone
in Linlithgow that he died in 1607, aged seventy years. This house con-
tinued to be the residence of the family till after the middle of the last
Fig. 470.— Bonhard. Room on First Floor.
century ; and by the end of the century the house and lands passed out of
the possession of the Cornwalls.
Peter Cornwall, the father of Nicholas, built a town house in
Linlithgow in 1527, and was the first to assume the above arms. That
house was taken down in 1870, and the drawing (Fig. 472) shows a stone
taken from the house, containing the date, the motto of the Cornwalls, .and
a matrix for a metal plate. The metal plate, which contained the arms,
crumbled away on being touched. Waldie, in his History of Linlithgow,
mentions (and it is interesting to know this in connection with Bonhard)
that the town house had fine plaster ceilings of the time of Charles i.
and II. He also states that on one of them there was a head of Alexander,
IIERBERTSHIRE CASTLE
— 537
FOURTH PERIOD
who, he maintains, was "the hei'O of tlie family who fell at Flodden."
It was more likely the hero of antiquity, as the Cornwall who fell at
Flodden was named John. Portrait-heads of Alexander the Great and
SMUMMSMl
^ ^ ^ ^ WS^ .TpT^'^
wm^m^Mm^M^^^^mk\
Fig. 471.— Bonhard.
Arms on Dovecot.
Fig. 472.-Bonhanl.
Panel from House in Linlithgow.
other ancient worthies are of frequent occurrence amongst the enrichments
of plastered and painted ceilings — as, for instance, at Merchiston Castle,
where both Alexander and King David with his harp occur.
HERBERTSHIRE CASTLE, Stirlingshire.
A large and lofty keep, situated near the village of Denny, in a park
studded with ancient trees, overlooking the River Carron. It is of the
first class as regards size, but it has been dread-
fully knocked about and added to in the " castel-
lated " and other styles, to the great detriment of
its appearance and interest. The structure is of
the L Plan (Fig. 473), and measures 63 feet
6 inches from north to south by 43 feet 8 inches
from east to west, and the small limb of the
L measures from east to west 26 feet 2 inches.
Being now used as a school, the interior of the
building has been greatly modernised.
The View of the upper part of the castle from
the east side (Fig. 474), as seen rising over the
confused modern buildings, is after the ordinary
traditions of the Scottish castellated style. The pai'apet walk with
Fig. 473. — Herbertshire Castle.
Block Plan.
FOURTH PERIOD
538
NEWBYRES TOWER
angle turrets, and the massive chimney gable of the southern part of
the sloping roof, with dormer window adjoining, and the turret and
Fig. 474. — Herbertshire Castle. View from East.
parapet resumed along the north side, make altogether a very eflfective
composition.
NEWBYRES TOWER,* Midlothian.
This ruinous tower stands at the back of the village of Gorebridge,
about ten miles south-east from Edinburgh. Since the Sketch (Fig. 475)
was made in 1877, showing the structure as it then was, a large portion of
the projecting tower with the staircase fell in February 1881.
* We are mdebted for the Ground Floor Plan, the Sketch of the ruins from the
south-west, and the historical notes, to Robert Dundas, Esq. of Arniston ; while
the Upper Floor Plan and the I'estored View are taken from sketches by Walter F.
Lyon, Esq., published in the Building Neivs, 2'2nd August 1879.
NKAVBYKES TOWER
539 —
FOURTH PERIOD
Newbyres is ;i very plain edifice of the L Plan (F'ig. 476). It is 32 feet
8 inches long by 24 feet 2 inches wide, with a staircase wing at the north-west
corner projecting 5 feet 7 inches beyond the main building. It possesses
no special peculiarity of plan. The ground floor is vaulted, and at the
Fig. 475. — Newbyres Tower. View from South-West.
Fig. 476.— Newbyres Tower. Plans.
south end of the first floor a large stone drain opens to the outside. On the
upper floors there are sevei'al gunholes and wall-chambers. The restored
View (Fig. 477) shows how pictui'esque this structui'C was. The South-
East View (Fig. 478) is plainer, but better preserved.
f r
Fig. 477.— Newbyres Tower. Restored View from South-West.
This tower seems to belong to the early part of the Fourth
Period.
The lands of Newbyres belonged to the Abbey of Newbattle. In 1543,
with consent of Queen Mary, patroness of the abbey, they wei-e granted
FOURTH PERIOD
— 540
COLINTON CASTLE
to Michael Borthwick of Glengelt by James, abbot of the monastery of
Newbattle. From -a shield with the Borthwick arms carved upon the
tower, it would appear to have been built by Michael Borthwick.
Mj.H^I/.-^'^^;^^
Fig. 478. — Newbyres Tower. View from Soutli-East.
In 1624: Newbyres, with its tower, was sold to Sir James Dundas of
Arniston. In 1646 the tower was used as the jointure house of the
Arniston family ; since which time it seems to have shai-ed the fate of
many old pele towers, and to have fallen into decay.
COLINTON CASTLE, Midlothian.
This ruin is situated within the grounds of Colinton House. It is
so closely environed with trees as to be hardly visible till the spectator
COLINTON CASTLE
541 —
FOURTH PERIOD
stands beside it. It is a structure of tlie L Plan (Fig. 479), with certain
peculiarities, such as the lofty projecting tower of the south front, the
relation of the stairs to each other, with the small hall or lobby
between them. The castle measures 74 feet 6 inches from cast to
west by 48 feet from north to south. The entrance is in the pro-
jecting staii'case tower on the south front, by a handsome moulded
doorway placed to one side of the centre of the tower. On the left
hand a passage leads to three lofty cellars ; in front of the entrance
a door leads into the hall or lobby, from which the east cellar, back
stair, and kitchen are reached. The front stair in the tower terminates
at the first floor in a . square landing lighted with the large double
window shown on the View (Fig. 480). The ceiling of the staircase over
the level of this window is ruinous, but the south half, which remains.
Fio. 470. — Colinton Castle. Plan of Ground Floor,
consists of a flat stone arch of about 1 1 feet long by 6 feet broad. The
interior walls of the first floor are demolished. The back stair, situated in
the re-entering angle, gave access to the four upper floors, which are, as
just mentioned, in a state of great ruin ; but the walls of the back
staircase and parts of the north and west walls adjoining still exist to a
height of about four stories. The hall on the first floor probably occupied
the west part of the main wing, and would be about 42 feet long by
about 19 feet wide ; its fireplace was in the south wall.
The date of the erection of the castle is not known ; the panel over
the entrance, which probably contained the date and arms, is gone.
The lands belonged to the Foulis family, and in 1609 Sir James Foulis
of Colinton was served heir to his father in Colinton, and this is
probably about the date of its erection. The present modern house,
quite near to the ruins, was built about the beginning of this or the
FOURTH PERIOD
542
G-REENKNOWE CASTLE
Fig. 480.— Colinton Castle. View from South-West.
end of last century, about which time we suppose the okl castle was
abandoned.
GREENKNOWE CASTLE, Berwickshire.
A well-preserved ruin on the L Plan (Fig. 481), about three-quarters of
a mile north-west from West Gordon. It consists of a main building 25
feet long by 33 feet wide, with walls 4 feet thick, and a wing at the north-
east angle containing the entrance doorway (still furnished with its iron
yett) and the staircase to the first floor. The ground floor is vaulted (see
Section, Fig. 481), and included the kitchen, with its large arched fireplace.
The first floor contained the hall (25 feet by 16 feet), with windows on three
sides and two- small closets, inserted, as often happens, on each side of the
large chimney, which ascends from the kitchen in a wall thickened to con-
tain it. The hall fireplace (see Fig. 481), which is somewhat ornamental, is
on the east side. From this level the usual turret stair in the re-entering
angle leads to the three upper floors, and gives access to the rooms both in
the main block and the wing (Fig. 482). The gables are finished, in the
usual manner, with crow -steps, and the corners have corbelled angle
turrets.
GREENKNOWE CASTLK — 543
FOURTH PERIOD
FOURTH PERIOD
544 —
GREENKNOWE CASTLE
This mansion belonged in the seventeenth century to Walter Print^le
(a zealous Covenanter and an author), having jDassed by purchase from the
14'
Fig. 482. — Greenkuowe Castle. View from South-East.
Setons of Touch, by whom it was built, to the Pringles of Stichel. On
the lintel of the entrance doorway (Fig. 483) are carved two shields, with
•MiiMil)iliMli|in!il/i>:
MmW
Fio. 483.— Greenkuowe Castle. Lintel of Entrance Doorway.
the initials J. S. and I. E., and the date 1581. One of the shields contains
the arms of the Setons of Touch — viz., first and fourth, three crescents; and
GREENKNOWE CASTLE
545 —
KOUUTII PERIOD
2m
FOURTH PERIOD
546
EVELAW TOWER
second and third, three scutcheons. The second shield bears three cres-
cents, which are equally the arms of the Setons and the Edmonstones.
The Setons acquired the property by marriage with the heiress of Gordon
of that ilk.
The tower stands on a small knoll (Fig. 484) slightly raised above the
surrounding ground, which is level, and still somewhat marshy, showing
that in former times the chief defence lay in the surrounding water and
marsh. Indications of the former beauty of the gardens and grounds are
still observable in the snowdrops and other flowers which abound in the
meadows, and the tine old trees which bordered the ancient avenues.
EVELAW TOWER, Berwickshire.
A tolerably well preserved though ruinous keep, constructed on
the L Plan, and situated on the high ground five miles north of
Greenlaw.
The main block (Fig. 485) is 33 feet long by 22 feet wide, with a wing
at the north-west angle, 14 feet 6 inches by 11 feet. The entrance door and
A
CROUNQ noOR PUN
riRST nooR F
Pig. 485.— Evelaw Tower. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor.
staircase to the first floor were in the wing, and a corbelled turret stair led
to the upper floors. There also appear to have been turret stairs in the
south-east and south-west angles, leading upwards from the first floor. All
the external angles, both of the main building and the wing, are rounded
(Fig. 486). There has been a parapet round the wing (Fig. 487), the
simple small corbels of which remain, as also do those at the eaves of
IIILLSLAP, COLMSLIE, LANGSHAW 547
FOURTH PERIOD
the roof of the main block, but they are not returned round the gables.
The ground floor is pierced with shot-holes with scjuare ends, and
Fig. 4S6.-Evelaw Tower. South-East View.
Fig. 487.— Evelaw Tower. West Elevatiou.
the windows are quite simple. This tower seems to date from early in the
Foui-th Period.
HILLSLAP TOWER, COLMSLIE, AND LANGSHAW,*
Roxburghshire.
Hillslap Tower is a structure (Fig. 488), situated near the head of the
Fairy or Nameless Glen, through which flows the Allen Water to its
junction with the Tweed, about two and a half miles above Melrose.
This is supposed by Scott to have been the scene of most of the
imaginary events in The Monastery, and Hillslap Tower is the pi'O-
totype of " Glendearg." It is designed on the L Plan, and con-
tains the usual arrangements, the entrance door being in the re-entering
angle, and the principal staircase occupying the wing as high as the
first floor, above which a round turret stair corbelled out in the
angle conducts to the upper floors. Of these there were two, so
that, taking into account the space in the main block and the rooms
in the wing, the amount of bedroom accommodation in the tower was
considerable.
The ground floor is vaulted, and contained shot-holes with wide hoi'i-
zontal splays, but no^ fireplace. The hall, which is 23 feet by 15 feet,
occupies the main building on the first floor, and has the usual large fire-
place, and windows on every side. The walls are about 4 feet in thickness.
The corbelling of the angle turret (Fig. 489) is not very common, being
* We have to thank Mr. W. Anderson for the drawings of these structures.
FOURTH PERIOD
548 IIILLSLAP, COLMSLIE, LANGSHAW
5o\ith Ellt^'tJtioii.
West Klevation.
A
1^
■
>i
Gn>und Plan
■ ■■■'■■• .1
Rrst Floor Plan
-Z %
Fig. 488.— Hillslap Tower. Plans, Elevations, and Section.
Kio FOURTH PERIOD
HILLSLAP, COLMSLIE, LANGSIIAW — OtJ —
.1 n,. nvpl, thrown diao-onally across the angle above the
ZC T 0 m^of r latte. ih- m contain. . Ube. .ouldin.
aoonraj. The date corresponds with the
and the "-;"P"^^„^„ f 1, ^ e first initMs nre those of one of the
late character ot the structuie, Sketch
family of Cairncross, to whom the property belonged. The same
shows a few mouldings from the building in detail.
'x>>
Fig. 489.-
-Hillslap Tower. View from Nortli-East.
At the head of the sanie glen, and almost -'"""/'""^^fj;:;; Z
other, are - tr^e:^--"-: InTnt t^ -" '-'
Langshaw. The former (i^ig. 4^1 ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^
walls, in a very ruinous condition (J^ig. 4^-;.
FOURTH PEKIOD
550 HILLSLAP, COLMSLIE, LANGSIIAW
have been a comparatively modern mansion (Fig. 493), but both are now
so ruinous as to present no features of architectural interest. Langshaw
Ulitlu.
Inscnption on Dnor Lintel.
-j—x — t-^ — r 7 r .1 — I
Fig. 490.--Hillslap Tower. Details of Doorway, Fireplace, Windows, &e.
is a house of the L Plan, above 70 feet long, with a semi- circular staircase
projecting from the centre of the north side.
Fm. 491.-Colmslie.
Plan of Ground Floor
Fig. 49'J.— Colmslie.
View from South- East.
HUCKIIOLM CASTLK
- 551
FOURTH PKKIOD
©'^=%^'"*%;^.;;^-
'^i^m^'-
-ifc^"-
Pio. 493. — Langshaw. View from South-East.
BUOKHOLM CASTLE,* Spjlkirkshire.
An old mansion, the outer walls of which (Fig. 494) exhibit the form of
a Scottish mansion of the Fourth Period, with the staircase tower projecting
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Pig. 494.— Buckliolm Castle. Plan of Priucipal Floor.
* The Plan and View are kindly supphed by Mr. W. Anderson.
FOURTH PERIOD
552 —
FRENCHLAND TOWER
at one angle. But the structure has evidently undergone considerable
alterations, both internally and externally. A modern wing has been
added (Fig. 495), and a new roof put on the old portion; but part of
the old wall enclosing the courtyard, and the gate leading into it, are still
preserved.
Fig. 405. — Buckholm Ca.stlc. View from South-Wcst.
Mr. Craig Brown states that there is a stone at Torwoodlee, brought
from Buckholm Tower, dated 1582, with the letters I. P. and N. P.,
being the initials of the Pringles, the proprietors.
FRENCHLAND TOWER, Dumfriesshire.
Originally a simple keep, this building has been extended at a later
time into a mansion of the L Plan (Fig. 496). Some of the corbels of the
parapet of the original keep have been left in the north gable when the latter
was heightened and finished with crow-steps (see View). The door of the
enlarged structure was in the i-e-entering angle of the west wing, which was
added in order to contain a good square staircase as far up as the hall and
bedrooms on the upper floors. The old keep is 26 feet 8 inches long by 21
feet 6 inches wide, and the walls are 3 feet 6 inches thick. It is probably
an erection of the sixteenth century, while the wing, which measures 15
feet 8 inches by 13 feet, and the other enlargements have been added in
the seventeenth century.
DRUMMELZIER CASTLE
553 —
FOURTH PERIOD
^'=^?iv^v
vl )
^^ x^
-s/
F[G. 496. — Frenchland Tower. Plan and View from South-West.
In 1610 Frenchland belonged to Robei't Frencliie, wLio succeeded his
father of the same name in the estate.
DRUMMELZIER CASTLE, Peeblesshire.
Of this mansion of the Tweedies of Drummelzier, situated on the level
ground near the Tweed, about two miles from Broughton, only the angle
tower and a portion of the main building now exist. It appears to have
been a structure of the modified L Plan (Fig. 497) of the Fourth Period,
Fig. 497. — Drummelzier Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
in which the wing projects so as to flank two sides of the main building.
The door is in the re-entering angle. The wing is vaulted and provided
with shot-holes, and each window is also furnished with a shot-hole under
the sill (Fig. 498).
FOURTH PKUIOD
554 —
CARDKONA TOWER
The Tweedies seem to have obtained Di-ummelziei' from the Erasers by
marriage with an heiress in the fourteenth century. They were well
Fig. 498.— Drummelzier Castle. View from South-East.
known in the sixteenth century as a powerful and turbulent clan, of which
Tweedie of Drummelzier was the chief.
CARDRONA TOWER, Peeblesshire.
A small L-shaped building (Fig. 499), on the southern steep bank of
the Tweed, about three miles below Peebles.
The main lilock measures 22 feet 6 inches by 29 feet, with walls 3 feet
9 inches thick. It has suffered considerably from violence, and is now a
roofless ruin. The ground floor is vaulted, and consists of one apartment,
25 feet 6 inches by 14 feet 10 inches. A small wing at the north-west angle
contains the entrance door and the stair to the first floor. There is a large
moulded doorway at the entrance to the vaulted room from the passage,
part of which remains, and the stair to the first floor is also pretty entire.
The first floor contains one large room or hall, 26 feet by 15 feet, with
four windows and a large fireplace in the wall at the south end.
The house is built of whinstone, and has been three stories high,
probably with attics in the roof, but only about one story now survives.
There are some remains and traces of the walls of a courtyard on the
side next the hill. Just outside the courtyard, on the same side, are
UAYSTOUN HOUSE
— 555
FOURTH PKUIOD
indications of a pond, which would be useful both for ornament and
defence.
Fl RST FLOOR
Fig. 499.— Uardrona Tower. Plan of Ground Floor and First Floor.
Cardrona "was anciently the seat of the Govans," from whom in 1685
it passed to the Williamsons, distinguished burgesses of Peebles.*
HAYSTOUN HOUSE, Peeblesshire.
An early seat of the Hays of Haystoun (descended from a branch of
the Yester family). It is situated among finely wooded grounds, about
Pio. 500.— Haystoun House. Coat of Arms.
one and a half miles south from Peebles. The present house was built in
1660. The family prospered as lawyers and bankers in Edinburgh, and
* Chambers's Peeblesshire, p. 393.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 556
HAYSTOUN HOUSE
the builder of this mansion was probably John Hay, advocate, and Prin-
cipal Clerk of Session at above date.*
Fig. 501.— Haystoun House.
A coat of arms (Fig. 500) inserted over the entrance door seems to
have been brought from some other place and built in there. It appears
Fig. 502.— Haystoun House. Coat of Arms.
to be of older date than the mouldings round the doorway (Fig. 501), the
date on the lintel of which is 1730. Another large coat of arms (Fig. 502)
* Chambers's Peeblesshire, p. 333.
IIAYSTOUN HOUSE
— 507
FOURTH PERIOD
has been placed over a window in a modern stable wing. These shields
contain the dates of 1660 on the former and 1676 on the latter. They both
carry the arms of the Hays of Haystoun, impaled doubtless with those of
the wives of the proprietors at the above date. That of 1660 bears the
initials I'^l,. for Master John Hay, and of M. D. for his wife.* The
GROUND FLOOR.
Fig. 503.— Haystoun House. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor.
other bears the Hay arms, impaled with those of Nicolson, and the
initials j\ and I. N., for Master John Hay and his wife, Nicolson.
* Mr. Bnchan, Town Clerk of Peebles, suggests from the arms that this was
Margaret Durham,
FOURTH PERIOD
558
ROSSEND CASTLE
ROSSEND CASTLE
559 —
FOURTH PERIOD
Whatever the liistory of these large and carefully carved coats of arms
may be, they seem to have been imported here, as they are not applicable
to a mansion of the modest dimensions of this one.
The house is built of whinstone, with walls 3 feet 6 inches thick. It
is designed on the L Plan (Fig. 503), and has had three apartments on
each of its two floors (one room being vaulted), with a staix'case to the right
on entering. The building has been extended so as to provide a kitchen (the
large fireplace of which still exists) and an additional room on the first
floor.
Having now been converted into farm buildings, the internal
arrangements have been completely changed.
ROSSEND CASTLE, Burntisland, Fifeshire.
This ancient castle, now the hospitable mansion of James Shepherd,
Esq., stands on a lofty and precipitous site above the harbour of
Burntisland, from which position it commands a splendid view over the
Frith of Forth, with Edinburgh and the Pentland Hills visible to the south.
Fig. 505. — Rossend Castle. View from South-East.
The edifice is said to be of remote origin, and to have been originally
erected by Durie of Durie in 1382. It subsequently belonged to Kirkcaldy
of Grange, and was occupied by Queen Mary in 1563. The existing structure
FOURTH PERIOD 560 ANSTRUTHER MANSE
is, however, .apparently a building of the Fourth Period, although probably
portions of the walls are of older date. It is of the L Plan (Fig. 504),
with the staircase in the re-entering angle. On the ground or sunk
floor, which is partly vaulted, are the kitchen, with its great fireplace, and
the usual cellars. The first floor contains the hall, or dining-room, 26
feet by 17 feet, attached to which is the private room (now called Queen
Mary's Room). The greater wing of the L coiitains the drawing-room,
with bedrooms above. The walls are all old, and contain garde-robes and
chambers in their thickness.
A somewhat unusual plan is adopted in the case of the small wheel-
stair running from the second to the third floor. It is not corbelled out,
as genei'ally happens, but is carried up in the thickness of the great wall,
which contains the kitchen chimney.
The elevations are considerably modernised, but a portion of the old
work is visible in the View (Fig. 505) from the south-east, showing the
front which overlooks the liarbour.
AN8TRUTHER MANSE, Fipeshire.
This interesting house (Fig. 506), probably the most ancient clerical
dwelling of its style in the country, is situated in a quaint old garden
surrounded with high walls, and overlooking the town of Anstruther
and the Frith of Forth. It was a building originally of the L Plan
(see Fig. 506), with the entrance doorway and staircase to the first
floor in the lesser north-west limb. The main stair stops in the usual
manner at the first floor, the upper floors being reached by the angle
stair turret shown in Sketch. The staircase tower, on which is the
inscription, " The Watch Tower," must have had a much loftier appear-
ance when it was built than it has now, as the roof and walls of the main
building have been raised from their original height, and thus encroach
on the tower. The whole ground floor is vaulted. The upper floors and
internal arrangements have been somewhat modernised, and the
building lengthened towards the north, so as to make it a suitable
residence for the parish minister. A low moulded parapet wall runs
along the front of the house, forming a terrace inside and a ledge for
a seat facing the garden, in one corner of which there is a dovecot.
The history of the construction of the manse cannot be given better than
in the words of its builder, Mr. James Melville, minister of Anstruther.
His Diary has been printed by the Woodrow Society and the Bannatyne
Club. The place " Kilrynnie " mentioned in the following extract from
the Diary was the old name of Anstruther.
ANSTRUTIIER MANSE
561
FOURTH PERIOD
Extract from the Diary of Mr. James Melville.
" Now ill this mean tyine, the stipend of Kih-ynnie was but fourscore
lib, but ather gleib or manse, but God moved the peiple's hartes to haue a
cear of me, and mak me sufficient securitie of four bounder markes in
stipend ; the town of Anstrut]ier Eister bund for the twa part, and the
Gentlemen to Landwart for the thride, and fordar oblesit thamselues to
big me a hous vpon a piece of ground, (juhilk the Lard of Anstruther gaift'
Fig. 506. — Anstruther Manse. View from South-West.
frielie for that effect. This was vndertakin and begoun at Witsonday in
an, 1590, bot wald neuer haifF bein perfyted gitf the bountifull hand of my
God haid nocht maid me to tak the wark in hand myselff, and furnished
stranglie to my consideratioun all things neidfull, sa that neuer ouk past
but all sort of workmen was weill peyit, never a dayes intermission fra
the beginning to the compleitting of it, and never a soar fingar during the
haill labour. In Junie begoun, and in the monethe of Merch efter I was
9 K
FOURTH PERIOD
562
PITAIRTHIE CASTLE
resident therin. It exceides in expences the soum of thrie thowsand and
fyve hounder markes, and of all I haid nought of the paroche, hot about
a thrie thowsand steads of steanes, and f ourtein or f y f tein chalder of ly me ;
the steanes from the town, and the lyme from the landwart, skarslie the
half of the materialles, lyme and stean, and thairfor justlie I may call it a
spectakle of God's liberalitie."
PITAIRTHIE CASTLE, Fifeshire.
A ruin on rising ground, about five miles inland from Anstruther, in
the East Neuk of Fife. The plan is a modified L (Fig. 507), with staircase
turret and entrance doorway in the re-entering angle ; while the wing is
projected both to the south and west.
The ground floor contains the kitchen and passage and the usual
cellars. The kitchen is in the wing, and has a water supply trough in the
Fio. 507.— Pitairtliie Castle. Plan of First floor.
west wall. On the first floor is the hall, 37 feet by 22 feet, and a private
room in the wing 18 feet square. A small service room is inserted in the
north-west angle of the main block and the wing, with a narrow stair to
the basement. The hall has windows on every side, and in that to the
west there is a stone sink. A corbelled wheel-stair in the north wall leads
from the hall to the upper floor, which contained three or four bedrooms.
QUKEN MARYS, ST. ANDREWS
563 —
FOURTH PERIOD
The exterior (Fig. 508) is so covered with a dense groAvth of ivy that
the walls can scarcely be seen, but its features are simply those of a plain
Scottish mansion of the seventeentli century. It will be observed, how-
ever, that shot-holes are still introduced under the window sills.
Fio. 508.— Pitairtbic Castle. View from North-West.
The property was acquired by a family of the name of Bruce, in 1644,
and the castle is said to have been erected or enlarged by William Bruce
in 1653.
QUEEN MARY'S,* St. Andrews, Fifeshire.
This house, situated at the east end of South Street, St. Andrews,
on the south side of and close to the ruins of the cathedral, was built in
1523 by a merchant named Hugh Scrymgeour. The feu-charter is still
extant among the Records of the United College of St. Salvator and St.
Leonard, the senatus of which holds a superiority over the ground, and
receives a small annual feu-duty. There was a tradition that it was the
residence of Mary of Guise, but it is unsupported by evidence ; on
* We are indebted to the proprietor, T. T. Oliphant, Esq., for Plans and
particulars connected with this house.
FOURTH PERIOD
564
QUEEN Mary's, ht. Andrews
the contrary, it appears from several trustworthy sources that James v.'s
second queen, when at St. Andrews, occupied the novum hosjntium or
new inn built for his first queen, Magdalen of France. There is, however,
good reason for believing that it was the house in which Mary Queen of
Scots lodged during her visits to St. Andrews in 1562-63-64.
In a letter from Randolph, Ambassador to the Scottish Court at that
time, to Cecil, Queen Elizabeth's Minister,* he describes his interview
with the queen ; and as this is the only house answering the description
in Randolph's letter, which is shown in a map or plan of St. Andrews in
Fig. 509.— Queen Mary's, St. Andrews. View from South-East.
the Panmure Library, dated 1530, as well as on a subsequent one of 1620,
no room is left for doubt on the subject. It is further known that
Charles ii. lodged in this house on the 4th and 5th of July 1650.t
This Sketch (Fig. 509) represents the principal part of the original
house now remaining, and was taken in 1874, since which date a con-
servatory has been added at the east side of the porch.
A wing to the east of the present house (shown on the Plan of Base-
* See Chalmers' Life of Mary, Vol. ii. p. 70 ; Lyon's History of St. Andrews,
Vol. I. p. 349.
t See Diary of John Lamont of Newton, Edinburgh Edition, 1830, p. 20.
QUKEN MARYS, ST. ANDREWS
565 —
FOURTH PERIOD
ment, Fig. 510), together with about half the garden, was sokl by the then
owner in 1783, and the former was soon after partially taken down and
EAST WING
SOLD IN . I7S5
Fig. 510. — Queen Mary's, St. Andrews. Plan of Grouml Floor.
rebuilt, with an addition still further to the east ; and this with the wing
now forms a separate house, the existing house being shown in Fig. 511.
Fig. 511.— Queen Mary's, St. Andrews. Plans of Principal and Upper Floors.
The porch (as shown in Fig. 5 1 1 ) is a subsequent addition (probably late
Jacobean, circa 1710), and the apartment to the south of the wing with
FOURTH PERIOD
— 566
FERNIE CASTLE
the le;in-to roof is also a later and unfortunate addition as far as the
outward appearance is concerned, though adding to the interior comfort.
There are two old rooms within the
house — the one marked "Boudoir"
being panelled in Memel pine, the
other in oak ; the foi'mer has two
recesses in the south wall, which is
more than 7 feet thick, one of which
seems to have been an oratory. The
whole house is built upon strong
vaults, and from these the outline
of the original building can be easily
traced.
The angle turret (Fig. 512) is
remarkable, being more like an Eliza-
bethan bow window than a Scottish
turret. The three windows have no
doubt been inserted in the three
sides so as to command an extensive
view. The present roof of the turret can scarcely be original. It was
probably finished at first with an octagonal spirlet or a ci'ow-stepped gablet.
Fig. 512. — Queen Maiy's, St. Andrews.
Angle Turret.
FERNIE CASTLE,* Fifeshire.
A mansion, partly old, with later additions, situated in beautiful
grounds about three miles west from Cupar. The house has been erected
Fig. 513.— Kernie Castle. Plan of First Floor.
on a slightly elevated site, which was evidently at one time surrounded
and protected by marshy ground. The original structure (Fig. 513) is the
* We have to thank Messrs. Auld & Macdonald, W.S., Edinburgh, for assistance
in connection with this building.
FERNIE CASTLK
— 5G7
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 514.— Fernie Castle. View from South-West.
Fig. 510.— Fernie Castle. View from South-Ea.st.
FOURTH PERIOD
568 —
CREICII CASTLE
western part, comprising an oblong block 39 feet long by 27 feet wide, with
a wing projecting to the south, which contained the entrance doorway and
staircase. A round tower has also been erected at the north-west angle,
corbelled out to the square at the top and provided with a small staircase
turret in the angle (Fig. 514). The plan is in general character of the
L form ; the addition of the above round tower, however, forming a modi-
fication of the ordinary design. To the east of the older block (which
is apparently of the Fourth Period) lies a large addition of a later date,
probably about 1700, containing a new entrance door and hall on the
ground floor and complete suite of public rooms on the first floor.
The large round tower at the north-east angle (Fig. 515) seems to
have been introduced in order to keep up the Scottish character of the
mansion. The edifice forms a good and picturesque example of its time.
The Castle of Fernie is said to have been a place of great antiquity
and strength, and to have formed part of the domain of the Earl of Fife.
But there is now nothing to indicate an earlier date than that above
mentioned.
CREICH OASTLE, Fifeshirk.
A structure of the L Plan, which stands on a mound in the midst of
what was formerly a marsh, about six miles north from Cupar. The site
Fig. 516.— Creicli Castle. View from Soutli-West
is in a quiet hollow surrounded with hills, and near the castle are the ruins
of the ancient church.
CLEISH CASTLK 569 FOURTH PKUIOD
In the thirteenth century Creich Castle belonged to Macduff, Earl
of Fife ; but the existing building was erected in the sixteenth century,
when the lands were acquired by the Bethunes from the Liddels.
The building is now an ivy-mantled ruin, but has been a structure of
some pretensions. The entrance doorway and staircase were in a tower
in the re-entering angle, and the corbelling of the parapet has been of an
ornate character (Fig. 516).
The interior is now destroyed, but the apartments have evidently been
of considerable size. The angles have been finished with the usual
corbelled turrets, and there are indications of a stone defence or machi-
colation in the angle of the tower at the parapet, such as is observed at
Denmiln and Elcho.
CLEISH CASTLE,* Kinross-shire.
This mansion is situated at the base of the Cleish Hills, about three or
four miles south-west from the county town of Kinross. It enjoys a lovely
situation, and is surrounded with ' trees, conspicuous among which is an
ancient avenue of Scotch yews, which may probably have braved the blasts
of the three centuries which have come and gone since the castle was built.
'I"he castle is a very massive structure, considering its comparatively late
age. The walls on the ground floor (Fig. 517) measure from 7 feet to 9 feet
in thickness, and the whole ground floor is vaulted. The building was
allowed to fall into a state of complete ruin, and a pencil sketch in the
possession of the proprietor, Harry Young, Esq., made by the Rev. John
Thomson of Duddingston, shows the castle as entirely roofless, all the
windows empty, with the tops of the walls and chimneys ragged and
broken. But about forty-five years ago Mr. Young had it renovated and
converted into his mansion-house under the direction of the late Mr. John
Lessels, architect. At that time the walls on the various floors were
greatly reduced in thickness, and the ground floor vault in the main
portion of the structure was taken out, many of the windows were
enlarged, and various other alterations were made. A complete change
was effected in the entrance arrangements. In the re-entering angle an
outside stair was constructed, leading to the first floor, at which level the
new entrance is placed, having a porch on the top of the new stair. The
ruinous remains of the courtyai'd were removed, and the space was
converted into a lawn.f
* We ai'e greatly indebted to Harry Young, Esq. of Cleisli, for information and
assistance in connection witli the present notice.
t The Plans (Fig. 517) are made from measurements, and the original thickness
of tlie walls was obtained from Plans in the possession of James Lessels, Esq. , architect,
Edinburgh, wliich he Icindly placed at our disposal.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 570 —
CLEISH CASTLE
The building is of the L Plan, and measures 57 feet from north to
south by 40 feet 6 inches from east to west, and contains four stories and
attics, with an additional entresol in the wing. In ancient times there
were three entrances to the courtyard ; one of them still exists on the
north side, and is shown on the Ground Plan ; it is now built up.
u
'J
e
Pig. 517. — Cleish Castle. Plans.
One of the other entrances was at the south-east corner of the
courtyard adjoining the castle, and another on the west side. The
entrance door to the house was, as usual, in the re-entering angle of
the ground floor, but it is now built up. It was a lintelled doorway,
and is moulded (as shown in section on Plan) with the bead and
CLEISH CASTLK
— 571 —
FOURTH PERIOD
hollow mouldings which are of such frequent occurrence in buiklings
of the seventeenth century. The wheel-staircase is immediately opposite
Fig. 51S.— Cleish Castle. View from Soulh-East.
the door and in the centre of the house, between the main building and
the wing. This stair terminates at the second floor level ; and from thence
in the u^sual way a stair turret of rather more than the ordinary width con-
POUETH PERIOD — ^572 PITFIRRANE CASTLE
tinues the ascent to the top. It will be seen (Fig. 518) that this turret is
not projected in the re-entering angle in the ordinary fashion, but is
corbelled out in the centre of the east front.
The height of the ground floor vault of the main building was about 9
feet, and in the wing where the kitchen was situated it was a little more,
the floor being at a lower level. The old kitchen, which is rather dark,
is lighted by two small cross windows. It has a spacious fireplace, with a
great flue rising to a height of about 70 feet above the floor.
The hall, which was on the first floor, had a great fireplace (as shown on
Plan) near the centre of the south wall ; this wall is now thinned, and a new
fireplace has been constructed in the west wall. A large garde-robe, with
a door both from the staircase and hall, had a shoot through the east wall.
The other arrangements of the house may be easily undei'stood from
the drawings.
One of the most remarkable features of Cleish Castle is the magnificent
south gable (see Fig. 518), which, as already noted, rises to a height of about
70 feet, in a series of broad ofi"setts, for which there is ample scope, as the
wall commences with a thickness of about 10 feet immediately over the
fireplace arch. These ofisetts impart an aii- of great strength and solidity
to the mass of masonry, recalling the striking effect of the similar lofty
gable at Castle Huntly, Perthshire.
The moulding along the wall head of the castle, instead of being the
usual cavetto, is the opposite or a roll moulding.
In 1530 Sir James Colville of Ochiltree exchanged the lands of
Ochiltree for those of Easter Wemyss and Lochoi'eshire, Fife, which
included the barony of Cleish, and in 15-37 he bestowed the barony
on his son Robert.*
The initials shown on a window tympanum (see Fig. 518) ai'e those of
Robert Colville, third Baron of (cleish, and his wife, Beatrix Haldane, with
the date 1600. This tympanum is (as shown in the Sketch) built into
the staircase turret, but it is not in its original position.
The appearance of the house suggests that the upper part is later than
the lower, and it is not unlikely that some portion of the structure may
be as old as the time of the first Robert Colville.
PITFIRRANE CASTLE,! Fifeshike.
A castle situated about two miles west from Dunfermline, in a fine
undulating park studded with ancient trees. The structure is in a good
state of preservation, having always remained in a habitable condition.
At one time it made a very narrow escape from destruction by alteration.
* Between the Ochils and Forth, p. 62, by Daniel Beveridge.
t We are indebted to Sir Peter Arthur Halkett, Bart. , for the Plans of this castle.
PITFIRHANE CASTLE
573
FOURTH PERIOD
FOURTH PERIOD
— 574
PITPIRRANE CASTLE
Sir Arthur Halkett (the proprietor) has in his possession plans prepared
by an architect about the end of last century or beginning of this,
which if carried into effect would have utterly ruined the old house.
Another set of plans for additions to the mansion also exist, which were
probably prepared in the seventeenth century, and are of considerable
merit, but were never carried out. Independently of these abortive
attempts, however, Pitfin-ane has in its time undergone very considerable
alterations.
Fig. 520.— Pitfirrane Castle. View from Soutli-West.
From the evidence presented by the building (Figs. 519 and 520) it
would appear that originally this castle was a simple oblong in plan,
having battlements I'ound the top with parapet and walk, and consisted
internally of the usual ground floor vault (containing an entresol) and
two floors above, with the ordinary capehouse and attic in the roof.
The height of this primitive tower can be traced from the nature of
the masonry of the existing walls up to about the level of the corner
turrets. The mode of communication from the ground to the first floor
PITFIRRANE CASTLE
075
FOURTH PERIOD
seems to have been by two stairs rising on e.ich side from the ingoing
of the doorway in the thickness of the south wall, similar to the stairs
at Carrick Castle. These stairs are no longer visible, but Sir Arthur
Halkett has a distinct recollection of their existence up to the first floor.
This simple structure probably existed throughout the sixteenth century
till about the year 1583, when it was changed into its present form. The
walls were raised, the parapet walk was abolished, the corner turrets were
Fig. 521.- Pitflnane Uastle. View from North-West.
added, and a new roof was put on (Fig. 521). A staircase tower was built
at the same time at the south-east corner of the keep (where shown on Plan
by cross hatched lines), thus converting the tower into a mansion of the
L shape. These alterations considerably increased the accommodation,
and changed the character of the house from a rude defensive keep into
a peaceful mansion-house, with a fair amount of accommodation and a
pleasant external aspect.
The main staircase in the tower terminates at the second floor level,
FOURTH PERIOD
— 576
BLAIRLOGIE CASTLE
and a small staircase leads to the upper flooi's, in the usual manner, in the
corbelled ans:le turret.
^
r,^'
6M^^
r-^
m
w
lf§J
)\
Fig. 522.— Pitfirrany Castle.
Halkett and Ilepbnni Arms.
The tower being raised to a considerable height,
several stories are obtained in it over the main
staircase. Still later in the seventeenth century
the building was further enlarged by the addi-
tions to the south and east (shown by hatched
lines on Plan). Extensive new works were
also carried out during the present century,
under the direction of the late Mr. Biyce.
In the staircase tower there ai'e two panels
containing coats of arms (shown in the View
from the south-west, Fig. 520). The lower of
these contains the Halkett arms and the date
1583. The other panel is double (Fig. 522),
and contains in the lower compartment the
Halkett arms, impaled with those of Hepburn.
Beneath are the initials of George Halkett and
Isabel Hepburn (of the Waughton family), his
wife, with the mottoes of their respective families
above, viz., "Fides sufficit," and "Go till it."
The marriage occurred in 1576, and it is most
likely that the alterations above described as
having taken place about 1583 were executed
under the said George Halkett and his wife.
Pig. 523.— Blairlogie Castle. View from Soutli-East.
DUCHRAY CASTLE
577
FOURTH PERIOD
BLAIRLOGIE CASTLE, Perthshire.
Now a farm-house, about three miles north-east from Stirling, beauti-
fully situated near the base of Dumyat (Fig. 523).
The structure is said to date from 1513, but it has been modemiised
and added to. It was the seat of the Spittal family. One angle turret is
carried on large corbels in an unusual manner, and the other, which
contains the staircase to the upper floors, is finished on top by the crow-
steps of the gable being carried round it. A few good fragments of old
iron and wood work are preserved in the interior.
DUCHRAY CASTLE,* Stirlingshire.
This castle lies in the parish of Diymen, in the earldom of Monteith. It
is an oblong building (Fig. 524), with a round tower at the south-east angle
Fig. 524. — Ducliray Castle. View from Soutli-East.
rising from the ground, and a round turret pi'ojected on corbels at the top
of the north-west angle. The ground floor is vaulted. It seems, accord-
* For the following notes of the history of Duchray we are indebted to John
Guthrie Smith, Esq. of Mugdock.
2 o
FOURTH PERIOD 578 DUCHRAY CASTLE
ing to Mr. Smith's notes, to have been erected about the end of the
sixteenth century, and is peculiar in having windows with pointed arches
at a time when lintelled windows almost entirely prevailed. This probably
arose from the difficulty at the time in finding stones sufficiently large for
lintels.
The battlemented wall (shown in the View) running westwards together
with the arched entrance to the courtyard seem to be of the same age as
the castle.
In 1528 the lands of Duchray were " occupeit by George Buchquhannan
of that ilk," and the " mailis " or rents were due to Queen Margaret,
widow of King James iv., who was then liferentrix of the Stewartry of
Monteith. A little later the lands were feued off, and Duchray was in the
hands of John Drummond of Drongy, who sold it in 1569 to John
Graham of Downance, who held it in liferent, William Graham, his son,
being proprietor in fee. The Grahams of Downance were cadets of the
Earls of Monteith. William Gi'aham, who thus became first of Duchray,
was probably the builder of the old castle.
Duchray Castle was the rendezvous of the force which the Earl of
Glencairn raised in 1653 for the service in Scotland of King Charles ii.
The earl himself arrived at the castle in August of that year, when he
found awaiting him a company of foot soldiers under his host. The
tutor of M'Gregor, the Laird of M'Naughton, Lord Kenmure, and others
arrived soon afterwards, with horse and foot soldiers ; and in a few days
a sharp engagement took place between the royal troops and a Crom-
wellian force from Stirling at a pass near Aberfoyle. The English were
worsted and driven back, the Laird of Duchray's foot bearing the brunt
of the battle. In the rather unsatisfactory campaign that followed
Graham took a leading part, and seems to have sufiered much in purse and
estate ; for on the accession of King James vil. there was a precept issued
by him to the Treasury of Scotland, authorising a payment to the Laird
of Duchray of one hundred pounds sterling, and remission of his feu
duties, " in consideration of the loyalty, services, and sufferings of John
Graham of Deuchrie . . . and also in consideration that the summe
of one hundred pounds sterline was granted to him by our deceased royall
brother of ever blessed memory, wherof (as he informes us) there was not
any payment ever made unto him."
By his marriage to the heiress of Rednock John Graham became
possessed of that estate. His grandson, Alexander Graham of Duchray
and Rednock, married Margaret Stirling, a daughter of the house of
Achyle ; and his grandson, another Alexander Graham, succeeded to
Achyle in 1797, on the death without issue of his cousin, Jean Stirling,
widow of the Honourable James Erskine of Alloa. He thereupon styled
himself Alexander Graham Stirling of Duchray, Rednock, and Achyle.
Lieutenant-General Graham Stirling died in 1849, leaving a large family.
BALMANNO CASTLE
— 579
FOURTH PERIOD
The eldest son, John Graham Stirling, advocate, succeeded to the family
estates; but, dying unmarried in 1865, they passed to his brother, Kobert
Graham Stirling, an officer in the army, who died, also without issue, in
1875. The present proprietor of Duchray is the Rev. Henry Alexander
Graham Sheppard, M.A., son of Mary Ann Graham Stirling, and the Rev.
Henry Sheppard, her husband. She was the eldest daughter of Lieutenant-
General Graham Stirling. The Rev. Henry Alexander Graham Sheppard
succeeded his uncle in 1875.
BALMANNO CASTLE,* Perthshirk.
A lofty structure, situated on the northern base of the Ochils, not far
from the entrance to Glenfarg, and in the parish of Dron. It stands
surrounded by a moat, still partially tilled with water, except on the east
side, where it has been partly embanked, so as to admit of a carriage access.
The house is still inhabited, being now used as a farm residence, and a
few alterations have been made to adapt it to modern purposes. Thus,
the entrance is now by a flight of outside steps, leading up to the doorway
Fio. 525.— Balnianno Castle. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor.
on the first floor, where a modern stair in the centre of the house partly
supersedes the old wheel-stair. With the exception of these alterations
Balmanno remains a very good example of a Scottish seventeenth-century
mansion. It is of the L Plan (Fig. 525), with a tower in the re-entering
angle. By reference to Vol. i. p. 336, it will be seen that this plan is
similar to that of the neighbouring Castle of Balvaird, which was built
about a century earlier ; but here the walls are not quite so massive, and the
* We are indebted to Daniel Dow, jun., Esq., Balmamio, for the Plans of this house.
FOURTH PERIOD
580
BALM ANNO CASTLE
parapet for defence is not continued all round the castle, being confined to
tlie tower in the re-entering angle (Fig. 526). This tower rises to a height
of 62 feet, and about 6 feet more to the top of the turret. The whole of the
ground floor is vaulted, and the kitchen occupies the north-west wing. The
wheel-stair leads to the first and second floors, where it terminates, and a
Fig. 520.— Balinanno Castle. View from East.
turret stair is continued to the top. There is a private stair from the
ground floor to the first floor.
From a charter in the Great Seal Register, dated 21st June 1581, it
appears that the present castle was built some time between 1570-80 by-
George Auchinleck, who had purchased the lands from Alexander
NEWTON HOUSE
581 —
FOURTH PERIOD
Balmanno of that ilk. The name of Thomas Balmanno of that ilk uccurs
in a charter of 1530. The estate seems to have continued in the
Aucliinleck family for about a hundred years, when it came into the
possession of the Murrays of Glendoick, a branch of the family of the
Murrays, barons of Tullibardine. It afterwards passed by the man-iage
of the daughter and heiress of Sir Patrick Murray in 1752 to the Belslies
of Invermay. The estate is now the property of the eldest son of Baron
Clinton, in right of his mother, only daughter of Sir John Stuart Forbes
of Pitsligo, who succeeded to the estates of Invermay and Balmanno as heir
of entail on the death of Colonel Belshes.
NEWTON HOUSE, Doune, Perthshire.
A quaint old mansion (Fig. 527), not far from the well-known Castle of
Doune, noticeable from the peculiarity of having a circular-ended wing
Fig. 527. — Newton House. View from North- West.
containing the staircase roofed with a crow-stepped gable, which follows
the curve of the round tower. This house belonged to a branch of
the Edmonstones of Duntreath.
FOURTH PERIOD
582 —
ABERUCHILL CASTLE
ABERUCHILL CASTLE,* Perthshire.
A castle of the seventeenth century, now incorporated with a modei-n
mansion. It is beautifully situated at the base of the mountains and
Fkj. 528.— Abeiucliill Castle. Plan.
amongst line old trees, about two miles from Comrie. The house was
built on the L Plan (Fig. 528), with a circular tower in the re-entering
'-V*^
U^niZ
F R
-^
^-"i^*?-''"' '^«— .,1
■ui'-^^
^•'x^:^"^^-^^
Pio. 529.— Abei-uchill Castle. View from Soutli-East.
* This Plan is kindly supplied by Mr. Bryce.
FIXLARIG CASTLE 583 FOURTH PERIOD
angle containing the staircase. The View (Fig. 529) shows the south front
as now altered.
Aberuchill was one of the castles situated in the district so long
contested between the Campbells and M'Gregors, of which a lively
account is given in the Legend of Montrose. In 1596 a charter of
Aberuchill was granted by the Crown to Colin, second son of Campbell of
Lawers, and the castle was erected in 1602.
COMRIE CASTLE, Perthshire.
A small keep on the River Lyon, about three miles from Kenmore.
The main block (Fig. 530) is 26 feet by 19 feet, with a square tower at the
south-west angle containing a circular staircase. The date is about 1600.
The walls are fairly preserved, but are completely concealed with ivy.
Fio. 5o0. — Coiuiic Castle. Plan of Gioiuid Fluor.
Comrie Castle was the original seat of the Menzies family (now of
Castle Menzies) ; but having been burnt in 1487, they built and removed
to Castle Menzies, after which Comrie Castle was repaired and occupied
by the younger branches of the family.
FINLARIG CASTLE, Perthshire.
An ancient seat of the ancestors of the Earls of Breadalbane, near the
head of Loch Tay, built in the seventeenth century, either on the L Plan
(Pig. 531) — with the south-west wing jutted out so as to protect two sides of
the main block — or on the Z Plan. If the latter, the tower at the north-
east angle has been demolished, but the staircase in the wall indicates that
there was formerly a building in this position. The vaulted ground floor
contained the kitchen (with stone drain), and two cellars entering from a
passage in the main block, with the entrance doorway, and a good squai-e
FOURTH PERIOD
584 —
FINLAR1C4 CASTLE
staircase in the wing. On the first floor was the hall (36 feet by 18 feet),
with a private room in the wing. A panel over the entrance doorway (Fig,
Fig. 531.— Pinlariy Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
532, and enlarged in Fig. 533) contains the royal arms, with the initials
of James vi., those of his queen, and the date 1609. This is undoubtedly
&^A
-^.o::^?;/
Fig. 532. -Pinlarig Castle. View from Soutb-East.
BALHOUSUi CASTLE — 585 — FOURTH PERIOD
the date of the present buikling, although the local traditions cany it much
further back.
The castle stands on a detached mound, well protected by the loch and
the rivers Lochay and Dochart towards the south and west ; and it is likely
that this site was occupied from early times with some
kind of defensive erection. The venerable trees which
surround it, together with the justice "mount" which
adjoins, conspire to support this idea. Close to the castle
on the north is a stone tank with overflow drain, evidently
intended for storing water ; but the local memories of the
tender mercies of the Campbells have invested it with a
more terrible office. The tank is regarded as the scaffold p,G. 533.
within which the victim kneeled, and the overflow as Finiarig Cnstie.
,, , ,, . 1 • 1 1 1 II- 1 r ii • ■'^r™^ over Entrance
the liollow m which he placed his neck tor tlie convenience poor.
of the headsman !
We find in the New Statistical Account the following quotation from
the Black Book of Taymoutli, confirming the above conclusions as to the
date of the present building : " Duncan, seventh Laird of Glenurquhay (died
1631), in his time biggit the castle of Finiarig, pitt and office houses thereof."
A small chapel stands on the same "mount" with the castle, and has
been since the sixteenth century the burial-place of the Breadalbane
family. The original chapel was erected by Sir Colin, the third Laird of
Glenurchy, early in the sixteenth century. The seventh laird (Black
Duncan), who built the castle, also improved the chapel with " pavement
and painterie." The existing edifice is a modern substitute for the ancient
chapel.
ACHALLADER CASTLE, Argyllshire.
A ruined castle of the Campbells of Glenorcliy on Loch Talla, ten
miles north of Tyndrum, built early in the seventeenth century by Black
Duncan, who also erected Finiarig and Barcaldine Castles, to which it no
doubt bore some resemblance.
BALHOUSIE CASTLE,* Perthshire.
The picturesque View (Fig. 534) of the house and gateway of Balhousie
is copied from a water-colour sketch by the late John C. Wintour.f The
* We have to thank H. H. Norie, Esq. of Coltbridge Hall, tenant of the castle
1872-81, for a Photograph taken in 1861, and U. Smart, Esq., architect, Perth, for the
Plans of tlie house as it was before the alterations were made.
t Kindly lent by W. Ormiston, Esq., surveyor, Edinburgh.
FOURTH PERIOD
586
BALHOUSIK CASTLE
castle stands on a bank overlooking the North Inch of Perth, and until
1863 it was dilapidated, and only the first floor tenanted. 'Jlie Earl of
Fig. 534.— Balhousie Castle. View from West.
Kinnoull then caused it to be repaired and added to, and provided with
turrets at the angles and corbelling at various places, so that its appear-
ance has been greatly changed. Originally the structure was of the
■^■■i
■T'^mi
1
3
PLAN Of SECr
> — — .^1
NO FUOO
u
COLIRTYARD
fUTRAMGE
I jvJ/^X
\^-X^^'
—\
\-'
FiG. 535.— Balliousie Castle. Plans.
BALIIOUSIE CASTLE
587
FOUIJTII PERIOD
L Plan (Fig. 535), with entrance door and staircase to tlie first floor
in the wing. Above this level a wheel-stair in a s(iuarc turret,
corbelled out on the east face of the building (t'ig. 53G), led to
the upper floors. The ground floor was vaulted and contained the
kitchen and cellars. The first floor doubtless comprised the hall
and a private room, but was afterwards divided with partitions. The
Fig. 530.— Balliousie Castle. View from Soutli-East.
house was enclosed with a strong wall, in which there were two gate-
ways, one of which is shown in Pig. 534. The date 1631 was carved on
one of the skew putts. The historic " Boot of Bousie " runs at the foot of
the slope on which the castle stands.
Balhousie belonged to the well-known Perthshire family of Hay,
connected with the Hays, Earls of Kinnoull, whose arms appeared in a
panel on the wall. At the beginning of last century a son of Hay of
Balhousie succeeded to the earldom.
FOURTH PERIOD
588
PITHEAVLIS CASTLE
PITHEAVLIS CASTLE, Perthshire.
A house situated about a mile westwards from Perth Railway Station.
It is a simple oblong structure (Fig. 537), with a square tower at the south-
west corner containing the entrance doorway and the staircase, which
seems to ascend to the second flooi', above which level there is a room in
the tower. There are two angle turrets on this tower, furnished with
gun-holes, and other large gun-holes occur in the ground floor.
Fig. 537.— Pitheavlis Castle. View from South-East.
Pitheavlis is not referred to in the local histories, although it is a very
characteristic specimen of a Scottish house of the sixteenth century. From
the records in the year 1586 we find a charter by John Ross of Craigie
confirming the sale of the lands and manor house (manerio) of Pitheavlis
to Robert Stewart.
The house is partly inhabited as a farm-house, but it does not appear
to be well maintained or cared for.
CLUNY CASTLE
— 589
FOURTH PERIOD
CLUNY CASTLE, Perthshire.
A simple and well-preserved structure of the L Plan (Fig. 538), which
stands on an island in the Loch of Cluny, situated between Blairgowrie and
Dunkeld, and about five miles from the former.
The locality was in early times dignified with the presence of a much
more imposing castle, said to have been the summer palace or hunting
seat of King Kenneth Macalpin in the ninth century. This would appear
to have been a stronghold of some importance, as it was occupied in 1296
by Edward i. It stood on the "castle-hill," a level platform on the west
side of the loch, from which steep banks slope down on two sides — a very
suitable site for a palisaded fort such as those in vise before the thirteenth
Fio. 538.— Clmij' Castle. Plan of First Floor.
century, and of which the first Castle of Cluny probably formed one. At
a later period a castle of the style of the First Period seems to have been
erected here, of whose walls a few remains are still visible on the crest of
the slopes.
In 1377 John de Roos was appointed by Robert ii. keeper of the
Castle of Cluny. The lands afterwards passed into the possession of the
See of Dunkeld.
The existing castle on the island is stated to have been built by
Bishop Brown (1485-1514) as a quiet retreat, and the island is said to be
artificial, and probably a cranoge. From the fact, however, that it
bears the weight of a mansion with walls 5 feet in thickness (Fig. 539),
and is well covered with tall trees, this would appear to be very proble-
matical. The castle is of very simple design, having one room in the
main block, and one in the wing on each floor. On the ground floor is
FOURTH PERIOD
— 590
LETHENDY TOWER
the kitchen, with a large fireplace. The building has been restored
and put in good order, probably about the end of last century, and
the pine panelling of the hall on the first floor is still in good condition.
At the Reformation the bishop was a Crichton, who, in order to
preserve the estate from others, disposed of it to a relative of the same
Pig. 539. — Climy Castle. View from South-East.
name — Robert Crichton of Eliock, in Dumfriesshire. Hence it happened
that the " Admirable Crichton," who was the son of the latter, although
not born in Cluny Castle, passed a great part of his boyhood there.
The walls may possibly be those erected by Bishop Brown, but the out-
ward and inward character of the building is now that of an ordinary
L-shaped house of the Fourth Period.
LETHENDY TOWER, Perthshire.
An ancient structure, situated between Cargill and Blairgowrie, on
the steepish bank of a small Tay-ward hurrying burn.
The building is of the L Plan (Fig. 540), and is three stories in height.
The door is not, as usual in this type of plan, in the re-entering angle, but is
in one face of the building, with the staircase to both floors in the adjoin-
LETIIENDY TOWER
— 591
FOURTH PERIOD
ing wing. On the ground floor, entering off a lobby, is the kitchen, with
a store-room beyond. This floor is vaulted, and in order to resist the
thrust of the vault the walls are thicker than they are above, the extra
thickness being to the outside, with a splayed water table on top (see View).
Some of the walls have been further strengthened in recent times by having
GROUND ^1
KITCHEN H
d
Fio. 540. — Lethendy Tower. Plans and View.
buttresses built against them, as shown on Plan. On the first floor is the
dining-room, with closet and private room, entering ofi" a lobby ; but this floor
has evidently been much altered. Off the stair is a small irregular-shaped
closet with arched roof. On the floor above are the sleeping rooms.
In a panel above the entrance door is a shield bearing the arms of the
Herons, the family to whom Lethendy belonged, and the date 1678.
FOURTH PERIOD
592 -
PLEMINGTON HOUSE
BANNATYNE HOUSE, Forfarshire.
A modernised and comfortable farm-house, near Newtyle, whicli owes
its celebrity to its having been the residence, towards the end of the six-
teenth century, of George Bannatyne, the author of the Bannatyne
Manuscript, a collection of the writings of the older Scottish poets. The
house has one angle turret on the north-east corner, which is said to have
been the author's cabinet.
FLEMINGTON HOUSE, Forfarshire.
A well-preserved mansion of the seventeenth century (which was occu-
pied till recently), near Aberlemno, about six miles north-east from Forfar.
It is on the L Plan (Fig. 541), with the common modification of having the
wing projected so as to protect two sides of the main building. The walls
of the ground floor are thick and the apartments are vaulted. It contains
the kitchen, which enters through another apartment. The entrance door
is in the re-entering angle of the wing, and is surrounded with a boldly-cut
iMKITCHENi 1
E
1
i
on
o
2 j
Ll.
a
z
o
cc
Fig. 541.— Flemington House. Plans.
architrave. The principal staircase to the first floor and a cellar partly
under it occupy the wing. The cellar has been amply supplied with
shot-holes. On the first floor there is a guard-room of irregular form in
the wing and two rooms in the main building. These occupy what was
no doubt originally the hall, but this floor and the upper part of the
FbEMINGTON HOUSE
593
FOURTH PEKIOI)
house have been entirely remodelled and provided with new finishings,
probably in the last century. Indeed, to judge from the size of the
windows and general character of the structure, we are inclined to
believe that it has been partly rebuilt in the latter part of the seventeenth
or beginning of the eighteenth century.
The two turret stairs from the first to the upper floors are unusual.
That in the re-entering angle ( Fig. 542) represents the general arrangement ;
Fig. 542.— nemington House. View from South-East.
and it is possible that the other one, which is corbelled out in the northern
angle between the main building and the wing (Fig. 543), may have been
inserted at the time of the rebuilding. The object seems to have been to
provide an entirely distinct access to bedrooms in the wing (which would
probably be used for guests), and the upper part of the main building
where the family apartments were situated. The exterior is very simple,
but is a pleasing example of an old Scottish mansion.
2 p
FOURTH PERIOD
— 594 —
FINHAVEN CASTLE
Fig. 543.— Flemington House. View from North-West.
The property belongs to P. Webster, Esq. of Westfield, but we h.ave
been unable to learn its earlier history.
FINHAVEN CASTLE, Forfarshire.
Now only a fragment of what was once an important residence. It
stands on a small mound at the junction of the Lemno Water with the
South Esk, about six miles north-east from Forfar. The keep, of
which three walls still partly stand, is five stories in height. It was built
on the L Plan (Fig. 545), but the wing has been entirely demolished, only
the foundations being now traceable. The main building contained an
apartment 16 feet square on each floor. The basement still retains its
vaulted roof, above which is the kitchen, with large fireplace, having a
small window at the west end, with a rebate for a shutter on the inside
FINIIAVEN CASTLE
595 —
FOURTH PERIOD.
and a stone sink and drain at the east end. There is also a water supply
conduit in the re-entering angle and a corresponding recess for a cistern
in the interior wall. The windows are large, and have been defended with
iron stanchions (Fig. 544). On the north-east angle arc the remains uf a
corbelled angle turret, with architrave mouldings round the windows and
Fig. 544. — Finhaven Castle. View from North-East.
double shot-holes. All these details point to the date of the structure
being in the seventeenth century. The wing probably contained the
staircase. A fragment of wall with shot-holes runs northwards, and
other portions of walls show that there was a courtyard attached to the
keep, within which the outbuildings and offices no doubt stood.
FOURTH PERIOD
596
FORTER CASTLE
In the fourteenth century the property belonged to Sir R. Bruce, an
illegitimate son of Robert l. It afterwards passed to the family of
Crawford, and here Earl " Beai'die " entertained King James ii. By the
forfeiture of Ludovick, Earl of Crawford, in 1544, Finhaven came to
Fig. 545. — Finhaven Castle. Plan of First Floor.
John, Lord Lindsay of the Byres, but again reverted to the Earl of
Crawford in 1608. The present building was probably erected by him
soon after this date. Towards the end of the seventeenth century it
passed to the Honourable James Carnegie, second son of the Earl of
Northesk, and has since several times changed hands.
FORTER CASTLE,* Forfarshire.
This ruinous structure is situated at the northern base of Mount
Blair, amid the wild scenery of Glen Isla, about twelve miles north of
\
Fig. 540. -Forter C;istle. Plans.
We have to thank Mr. George G. Mihie for the Plan and Sketches of this castle.
FOKTEll CASTLE
597
FOUHTU PEKIOD
Alytli. The building consists of .-in oblong block (Fig. 546) measuring
about 39 feet by 2G feet G inches, with a tower at the south-east corner
measuring about 21 feet square, so that the castle is thus a variation
of the L Plan. The entrance is in the tower in the re entering angle,
which also contains the stair to the first floor, at which level it stops, and
the ascent is continued in the turret (Fig. 547). Above the main stair
landing the ceiling is vaulted. On the ground floor the main building
was divided into three vaulted compartments, with a passage leading to
them. One of these was the kitchen, with an unusually wide fireplace,
Fig. 547.— Forter Castle. View from South-West.
being about 19 feet by about 4 feet in depth. The first floor contains the
hall, measuring about 32 feet by 19 feet, with a large fireplace on the
south side, the back of which (as seen in Fig. 547) has fallen out beneath
the saving ai'ch. There is another fireplace in the west end of the hall,
adjoining which, on the south side, there has been a mural chamber with
a small window. Above the hall there appears to have been second and
third floors with an attic. These were probably divided into two or three
apartments on each floor ; entering from the third floor there were angle
turrets corbelled out at the north-east and north-west corners (as shown
in Fig. 548).
FOURTH PERIOD
598
BALLINSHOE CASTLE
The lands were granted at an early date by the Dorwards to the
Abbey of Coupar, but afterwards passed into the hands of the Ogilvies.
Forter Castle was burnt in 1640 by the Earl of Argyll during the
Fig. S-IS.— Porter Castle. View from North-East.
absence of the proprietor, Lord Ogilvy. Lady Ogilvy was driven from
the house, and on this incident is founded, says Mr. Jervise, the ballad of
the Bonny IIo%ise of Airlie.
BALLINSHOE CASTLE,* Forfarshire.
A small tower, situated about two miles south-east of Kirriemuir (Fig.
549), measuring about 27 feet 4 inches by 22 feet 4 inches. It had a project-
ing tower at the north-east corner, but whether it was round or square on
plan is not now ascertainable. It is shown round, and it thus corresponds
with the similar tower at Duchray. In this tower was the staircase. The
main block is three stories in height, none of which are vaulted. There
was just one apartment on each floor, so that the accommodation was
very limited, the only extra or private place being the turret, which was
probably corbelled out on the top so as to give an additional room.
The shot-holes beneath the window sills and other features show that
this was a building of the Fourth Period.
* We are indebted to Mr. George G. Milne for the drawings of this castle.
KELLY CASTLR
599 —
FOURTH PERIOD
1
GROUND riOOR
PLAN
1
1
I I I I I I I M I I
Fig. 549. — Ballin.slioe Castle. Plans, Section, and View.
KELLY CASTLE, Forfarshire.
This castle, also called Auchterlony, is delightfully situated in a finely
wooded glen on the right bank of the River Elliot, about two miles south-
west from Arbroath. It was the seat of the family of Elliot from the four-
teenth century till the beginning of the seventeenth century, when the estate
was sold to Alexander Irvine of Drum, in Aberdeenshire, and was after-
wards acquired by the Eaid of Panmure. The castle (Fig. 550) is a struc-
ture of the Fourth Period, of considerable height, and with a picturesque
FOURTH PERIOD
— 600
BALFLUIG CASTLE
arrangement of turrets. After standing for a considerable time in ruins
it has within recent years been restored, and now forms a commodious
modern mansion. Tlie one-story buildings to the left in the Sketch
Pig. 550.— Kelly Castle. View from South-East.
form one side of a small enti-ance courtyard, entered by an arched gate-
way, through which a striking view is obtained of the older buildings with
their more modern additions of various dates.
LEITH HALL, Aberdeenshire,
A large mansion near Kennethmont Station, the residence of Sir
Andrew Leith Hay. Built in 1650, it still retains a few features of the
Scottish style in its angle turrets, &c. It is illusti'ated in Sir A. Leith
Hay's work on the Castles of Aberdeenshire.
BALFLUIG CASTLE, Aberdeenshire.
A house situated about one mile south of Alford. It is a tall keep
on the L Plan, which has been modernised and converted into a farm-house.
TILLYCAIKN CASTLK
— 601 —
FOUliTII PEKIOD
WESTHALL, Abkkdkensiiike.
A uiaiisioii, to which a hirye modern house has been added, situated
about one mile north of Oyne Station. The old portion (Fig. r)r>l) is
a very picturesque specimen of the Aberdeenshire style of the Fourth
Period, showing a copious application of the " label " corbelling so common
'^ -^^ r^^v):,^r
Via. 551. — Westhall, Aberdeenshire. View from South-East.
in the north. The plan is a modification of tlie L form, having a round
tower at the angle of the main block. The illustration is from a drawing
by Hullmandel before the modern additions were made.
Westhall belonged to the Diocese of Aberdeen from the thirteenth
century. At the Reformation it passed to the family of Horn, and
afterwards to the Dalrymple-Horn-Elphinstone family.
TILLYCAIRN CASTLE,* Aberdeenshire.
Tillycairn, although a small specimen, is nevertheless a pure one, of
* The Plan and View of this castle are from the sketch-book of tlie late Mr.
Skene of Ruljislaw, to whose notes we are also indebted for nearly the whole of the
description.
FOUKTII PEKIOD
602
TILLYCAIKN CASTLE
the L Plan. It is built in the strongest fashion, having the angles
rounded, and containing four stories of vaulted apartments ; but
from the disproportionate thickness of wall to a building of so small a
size, the low n ess of the vaults, and very sparing admission of light and
air, it is but a dai'k, prison-like, and uncomfortable mansion. It exhibits
the usual arrangements, the hall engrossing nearly the whole of the first
floor, having a high fireplace at one end and an arrangement in the other
which does not argue a high measure of refinement, being that of a stone
basin in the window recess with a drain to the outside — Scottice, a
"jaw-hole." Above the fireplace is a closet constructed in the wall for
concealment, and probably the arrangement of a " lug ; " and above the
space is divided into several small cells, having a concealed stair in the
thickness of the wall communicatinij with them from the corner of the
Fio. 552. — Tillycairn Castle. Plan and View.
hall, from which also a narrow trap-stair led to the dungeon below,
presenting in all respects a miniature of the great castle arrangements of
the Scottish style. A very heavy projecting cornice of good workmanship
encircles the building at the top, supporting the parapet and communicating
with the corner turrets. The whole upper part of the building displays
greater care and pretension in the structure and dressing of the stones
than the lower part, which is extremely rough of great boulder stones,
some of great dimensions, to the extent of 4 feet thick. The defensive
loops deserve notice, being different from the usual form. Demonstration
of their use for musketry alone consists in their being small round holes
with a raking level, and being generally set two together — one immediately
over the other, so as to give the means of an uninterrupted discharge being
kept up.
ESSLEMONT CASTLE
603 —
FOUiiTll PERIOD
ESSLEMONT CASTLE,* Aberdeenshire.
This castle is situated in the parish of Ellon, and is in a state of com-
plete ruin — Ijeing roofless, and with walls greatly broken and in part away.
Pig. 553.— Esslemont Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
while all the dressed stones of the windows have been pulled out for the
'~^ ' ^^,x-Kr ^' ^ ' — ^'"' -^_ -^
Pig. 554. — Esslemont Castle. View from East.
* The Sketches of Esslemont (Figs. 554 and 555) are copied from pencil drawings
lent us by H. Wolridge Gordon, Esq., who also kindly prepared the Ground Plan.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 60i
ESSLEMONT CASTLE
sake of building material. It it satisfactory to know that Mr, Gordon
will allow no further demolition of the structure.
The building (Fig. 553) may be classed with the castles of the L Plan,
with a staircase turret in the re-entering angle. The round tower at the
south east angle, although not a common feature, is occasionally added,
as at Dundai^ave Castle, &c. The main building seems on the ground
floor to have contained the kitchen, with a wide fireplace in the north
gable ; the rugged edges of the ruined sides of the flue being visible high
up in the gable (Fig. 554). The round tower is square inside, and opens
Fig. 555. — Esslemout Castk. View I'rum South.
from the kitchen, while the room in the wing opens from the staircase
lobby. The building contained three stories, with probably a high room
in the tower of the re-entering angle (Fig. 555). The south-east round
tower was brought out to the square at the top by means of corbelling,
part of which still remains.
It is believed that this castle was originally erected by Henry Cheyne
under a king's licence dated 1500. It ceased to be regularly occupied
in 1625, when the estate passed to the Errol family. In 1728 it became
the property of the Gordons, and may have been partially occupied till
1766, when the existing mansion was erected in its vicinity.
FITTULLIE CASTLE
605
FOURTH PERIOD
PITTULLIE CASTLE, Aberdeenshire.
A ruinous mansion situated about three or four miles west from
Fraserburgh, and about half a mile from Pitsligo Castle. It consists
of an oblong block with a square tower at the north-west corner, the
latter being shown in Fig. 556. The main portion of the structure (not
Fio. 556.— rittullie Castle. View from North-West.
illustrated) is a low building with round angle turrets, the corbelling of
which commences at a height of about 12 feet from the ground. The
angle windows in the tower are quaint and peculiar. We do not
remember any others of precisely the same design ; but they recall the
form of the angle turrets when they were overcome by the increasing
FOURTH PERIOD 606 FORDYCE CASTLE
gables and depressed bel^w the eaves of the roof. (See Cawdor Castle,
Vol. II. p. 322.) These angle windows light the apartment formerly
known as " the laird's room."
According to Pratt, the dates 1651, 1674, and 1727 are to be found on
various parts of the building; that of 1651 shown in the Sketch is from
the skew-stone of the east gable of the main building, and is the only date
we observed.
The lands of Pittullie were held in the fourteenth century by the
Frasers, under the Douglases, Lords of Abercorn and Aberdour, for
services. In 1595-6, by a contract of marriage between Alexander
Fraser, junior, and Mistress Margaret Abernethy of Saltoun, Alexander
Fraser of Fraserburgh binds himself to infeft his son and Mistress
Margaret on the lands of Nether and Over " Pettulies." Probably it was
in connection with this marriage that the house was built. The heading
of a holograph Will and Testament subscribed by Alexander Fraser at
" Pittulie, the threthi day of Julii, 1650 yearis,"* shows, as we may
reasonably infer, that a house was in existence there some time before
that date. The arms of the Frasers of Saltoun were visible on the
castle when Pratt wrote about twenty years ago. The place
ultimately passed into the hands of the Cumines, and was by them
enlarged and inhabited down to about 1850. It is now fast becoming
a shapeless ruin.
FORDYCE CASTLE,! Banffshire.
A small sixteenth-century tower, about two and a half miles south-
west of Portsoy. It was erected by Thomas Menzies, a citizen of
Aberdeen, whose family long held the provostship of that town. The
date of erection, as the inscription bears, is 1592. The structure is still
inhabited, and the rooms remain practically unaltered since that time.
It consists of a three-story tower with wing at one corner (Fig. 559),
which, as usual, contains the entrance door and staircase to the first
floor, above which a small turret staircase corbelled out in the re-
entering angle (Fig. 557) leads to the upper rooms in the tower or
wing. The top story has the usual angle turrets. At a later time
a wing containing a separate house has been added at one end (see
Elevations, Fig. 558).
* Information from privately printed Hhtory of the Frasers of Philorth.
t We are indebted to Mr. William Cramond, schoolmaster, CuUen, for informa-
tion, and for the Plans and Elevations of the building.
FORDYCE CASTLE
— GOT —
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 557.- Fordyce Castle. View.
Fia. 558.— Fordyce Castle. Elevation.s.
FOURTH PERIOD
60S
FINDOCHTY CASTLE
FLOOR
Fig. 559. — Fordyce Castle. Plans of Ground Floor, First Floor, and Second Floor.
FINDOCHTY CASTLE,* Banffshire.
A ruined structure of the L Plan, consisting of a vaulted ground floor
with the entrance doorway at the south end, and a staircase in the wing
at the north end, entered through the ground floor. This leads to the
hall on the first floor, and was apparently continued up to* the second
floor. Part of the enclosing wall along the low rocky site still exists, and
has been used as the back wall of a cottage now in ruins. There are
mouldings round the staircase and other windows, but they are much
obliterated, having been executed in soft freestone.
* From information kindly supplied by the Rev. Alexander Miller of Buckie.
ELCHIES, EASTER
609
FOURTH PERIOD
The castle stands a short distance north oi tin; (xreat North of Scotland
Railway, about half-way between Findochty and Portessie Stations. It
was formerly at the west end of a small loch, which is now drained, and
commands a fine view westwards. Little is known of its history.
BOHARM OR GOULD WELL CASTLE, Banffshire.
A ruin standing on the sloping south bank of the Fiddich, about two
miles east from Craigellachie. It is now reduced to mere foundations, l)ut
seems to have been a long structure of the L Plan.
ELCHIES, EASTER, Morayshire.
An old Scottish house (Fig. 560) on the high northern bank of the Spey,
about a mile above Craigellachie. It belonged to Patrick Grant, Lord
Elchies (1690-1754), from whose time the building is said to date, but we
Fio. 560.— Elchies, Easter. View from Soutli-East.
are inclined to think it must be older. It was almost rebuilt in 1857, but
the restored structure well preserves the old Scottish character. In the
west wall there is a panel with the monogram J. E. S. and the date 1700.
The house is now the property of the Seafield family.
2q
FOURTH PERIOD
610 —
ASLISK CASTLE
ELCHIES, WESTER, Morayshire.
This edifice, situated about two miles further up the river than Easter
Elchies, and on the same side, shows some remains of an old Scottish
Pio. 561.— ElcMcs, Wester. View from South-West.
mansion (Fig. 561) of the seventeenth century, to which a large
castellated structure has been added in modern times by the late
J. W. Grant, Esq.
ASLISK CASTLE, Morayshire.
A mere fragment is all that now remains of what was up till 1799 an
extensive and interesting pile, as is apparent from the annexed View
(Fig. 562) as it then stood, reproduced from an unpublished drawing by
J. Claude Nattes made in that year. The View is taken from the
south-east. There now only remains the part of the west gable shown
in the Sketch (Fig. 563).
CASTLE GRANT
— Gil
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 502.— Aslisk Castle. View from South-East.
Fig. 563.— Aslisk Castle. West Gable.
CASTLE GRANT, Morayshire.
This great pile, the chief seat of the Grants — now possessed by
the Countess of Seafield — exhibits the characteristics of the castle of the
sixteenth century as modified to meet the requirements of the eighteenth
century. The original building was designed on the L Plan, with the
wing projected so as to protect two sides of the main block. This portion
of the edifice, with its original corbelled parapet, is seen in both Sketches
(Figs. 564 and 565). The main structure was an oblong block running
FOURTH PERIOD
612
CASTLE GRANT
from east to west, which contained the hall over a vaulted basement.
These arrangements still exist, the hall, which is now the dining-room,
being about 50 feet long by 30 feet wide, lighted with the large windows
next the angle tower seen in the Sketch (Fig. 564). The castle at that
time faced the south, the entrance being doubtless in the re-entering
angle, with a wide staircase in the wing leading to the first floor, above
which the staircase turret seen in the Sketch would conduct to the upper
Fig. 564.— Castle Grant. View from South-East.
floors. The space now converted into a raised terrace would then be the
courtyard containing the oflices.
Sir Ludovic Grant (1743-73), who was a great builder, and who
designed the plan of the town of Grantown, completely enveloped the old
castle in new constructions which he erected around it. He added a front
80 feet long along the north side, containing a new entrance hall, wide
staircase, &c. ; and at the east end a structure 70 feet long, containing the
DUNDARAVE CASTLE
— 613 —
FOUKTH PERIOD
drawing-room. These fronts are very plain, and are carried up four
stories in height, and provide large accommodation. The same Laird of
Grant added the wings to the south, containing offices and servants'
Fig. 565. —Castle Grant. View from South-West.
apartments, togetlier with the raised terrace and stair leading to it.
These buildings all bear the character of the " park house " of the
eighteenth century.
DUNDARAVE CASTLE, Argyllshire.
A castle standing on a pi-omontory on the west side of Loch Fyne, about
four miles north of Inveraray, and which formerly belonged to the family of
Macnaughton. It is one of the few well-preserved structures of the West
FOURTH PERIOD
614 —
DUNDARAVE CASTLE
IBST FLOOR
PLAN
Fio. 5(36.— Dundarave Castle. Plans of Ground Floor and First Floor.
Fig. 567.— Dundarave Castle. View from North-West.
DUNDARAVE CASTLE
615
FOURTH PERIOD
Highlands, and \-aluable as sliowing that the Scottish style of building
was practised during the sixteenth century in this remote region as well
as in the more central districts of the country. It is designed on the
L Plan (Fig. 5G6), with a break in the re-entering angle, which contains
the entrance doorway and principal staircase. The ground floor contains
Fig. 568.— Dundaravc Castle. View from South.
the usual arrangements of the kitchen, with a large fireplace and vaulted
cellars, one of which has a small staircase communicating with the hall,
while another communicates with the private room by means of a small
circular stair. On the first floor there are, as usual, the hall and
private room, and the three upper floors contained the bedrooms.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 616 —
DUNDARAVE CASTLE
Almost the only peculiarity of the plan is the addition of a round
tower at the north-west salient angle of the L (Fig. 567). This is well
a
tfm:>»m>
Fig. 569.— DuDdarave Castle. View from South-East.
provided with shot-holes for defensive purposes — a not unnatural pro-
vision in this somewhat unruly district at the period of the erection of the
DUNDARAVE CASTLE
— 617 —
FOURTH PERIOD
Fig. 570.— Duudarave Castle. Entrance Doorway.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 618
BARCALDINE CASTLE
castle in 1596. The elevations (Figs. 568 and 569) show that the external
aspect of the building is veiy similar to that of the majority of Scottish
houses of the time, the gables being finished with crow-steps, and partly
plain and partly provided with turrets at the angles, while the roof line is
broken with simple dormers. The entrance doorway (Fig. 570) is, however,
ornamented in a remarkable manner, the mouldings being enriched with
the dog-tooth ornament and the jambs adorned with sculptures of various
kinds. These are now much weather-worn, but seem to have chiefly
represented human heads. One figure is still traceable, and shows the
Highland piper of the period in full operation. The inscription over the
doorway gives the date of the building (1596), with the initials of the
owner and his wife —I. M. and A. N. — and the admonition, " Behold the
end : be not wiser than the highest," together with the family motto, " I
hope in God." Above the doorway is the usual panel for the coat of
arms, enriched in an extraordinary degree, with the early dog-tooth, billet,
and nail-head ornaments, which we so frequently find revived in the
Fourth Period, but showing an amount of refinement which one would
scarcely expect in the Highlands at that date.
BARCALDINE CASTLE, Argyllshire.
A castle or mansion on the L Plan (Fig. 571), built in the seventeenth
century. It stands on the ridge of the land on the south side of Loch
Creran, and about four miles north from Connel Ferry. This castle,
Fig. 071.— Barcaldine Castle. Plan of First Floor.
according to the Black Book of Taynioutli, was erected in the end of the
sixteenth century by Sir Duncan Campbell of Glenorchy. He was a man
of education and distinction, had travelled in France and Flanders,
BARCALDINE CASTLE
— 619 —
FOURTH PERIOD
and did much to improve the condition of his part of the Highlands.
He died in 1G31, and was succeeded by Sir Colin, the eighth Laird
of Glenorchy. The existing structure (Fig. 572) corresponds with the
Fig. 572.— Barcaldine Castle. View from Soiith-East.
style common at his date, although from the quaint coat of arms over the
doorway, which contains the date of 1690 (Fig. 573) it might be supposed
to owe its origin to a somewhat later period. In plan it recalls the Castle
of Finlarig, likewise one of the seats of the
Campbells of Breadalbane, and erected by the
above Sir Colin. The break of the wing towards
the west is a sure sign of a late construction. On
the basement, which is vaulted, may be seen the
usual kitchen and cellars, one of the latter having
the ordinary narrow stair communicating with
the hall. On the first floor there was a hall 37
feet long by 19 feet wide, and a private room
in the wing. Above this were another story
and attics. The exterior shows further signs of
a late date in the large turrets, which occur on
some of the angles only, but no very prominent
features mark the design. The well-preserved
iron yett and iron gratings over the windows are, however, note-
worthy.
Sir Colin, the eighth laird, v^as a student, and a man of taste, delight-
FiG. 573.— Barcaldine Castlo.
Arms over Doorway.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 620
INVERGARRY CASTLE
ing in rich furniture and hangings and other decorations. At his Castle
of Balloch (Tay mouth) he employed German artists to paint the house and
furnish it with portraits ; and amongst others he gave encouragement to
Jameson, the father of Scottish paintei's.* Barcaldine no doubt also
shared his attention, but it is now a roofless ruin, and all signs of decora-
tion or comfort have entirely vanished.
INVEKGARRY CASTLE, Inverness-shiee.
A ruinous mass of building on the thickly-wooded and precipitous north
bank of Loch Oich, near the centre of the Caledonian Canal, which pre-
sents to the numerous travellers who annually sail up and down that mag-
nificent valley one of the most picturesque objects of the route. It was the
stronghold of the Macdonnels, and was occupied by the chief of the clan
till 1746, when it was burned and destroyed by the Duke of Cumberland.
Prince Charlie is said to have twice found shelter within its walls. The
Pig. 574.— invergarry Castle. Plan of Ground Floor.
existing building seems from its style to have been erected towai'ds the
end of the seventeenth century. It is designed on the L Plan (Fig. 574),
with an oblong staircase tower in the re-entering angle and a round tower
at the north-east angle of the main building, which also contained a stair-
case. The main building measures about 55 feet by 32 feet over the walls,
which have been carried to the height of five stories. The wing, which
was on the west or landward side, has been almost entirely demolished, but
enough remains to enable the plan to be traced. The entrance doorway is
in the north wall of the wing, and has an architrave moulding (Fig. 575).
Opposite the entrance a good square staircase seems to have led to the first
* See Professor Cosmo Inues's Sketches of Early Scotch History, pp. 346 and 349.
INVERGARRY CASTLE
621
FOURTH PtUtlOD
floor, above which level the two next uppei* floors were reached by the very
unusual form of a square or scale staircase in the oblong tower in the
re-entering angle. Some portions of this stair still remain. The angle tower
has been carried up six stories in height, the two top stories being rooms
Fig. 575.— Invergarry Castle. View from North-East.
approached by a circular stair turret, some fragments of which still cling to
it (see Fig. 575). An angular shot-hole guards the entrance door, and there
are also shot-holes in the two small vaulted cellars under the staircase and
square tower. The main building contained the hall on the first floor, a
FOURTH PERIOD
— 622
INVERGARRY CASTLE
noble apartment of 45 feet by 22 feet. The ground floor probably contained
the kitchen, &c., but it was not vaulted. The staircase in the round tower
at the north-east angle (Fig. 576) may have been the private access to the
Fia. 576.— Invergarry Castle. View from South-West.
family apartments. The building must have contained a large amount of
accommodation, but it is now too ruinous to enable the plans to be dis-
tinctly made out.
REDCASTLE
— 623 —
FOURTH PERIOD
REDCASTLE,* Ross-shire.
A modern mansion in which several portions of an older edifice have
been incorporated with good effect. It stands about six and a half miles
west of Inverness, on high ground, on the north side of the Beauly Frith,
over which it commands a fine view, extending from Inverness to Beauly.
The building seems to have been originally a structure of an elongated
L Plan (Fig. 577), with a staircase turret in the re-entering angle. The
hall would in that case occupy the large central apartment, with the
private room at the east end, and probably the withdrawing- room at
the west end. The small apartment which fills up the angle in front of
the staircase tower is a more modern addition ; indeed, almost all the
external features may be so regarded, but the angles at which they are
set to one another, and the mode in which the design is carried out, pro-
FiG. 577.— Redcastle. Plan of First Floor.
duce a picturesque effect. The two angle turrets on the west wing (Fig.
578), with their corbelling, are of some age. At this end the ground dips
rapidly towards a small burn, and the buttressing and intakes of the base
add to the character of the design. The turret at the east end probably
contained a private staircase from the private room to the bedroom floor
above. The dormer windows, we understand, were brought from Inver-
ness. A corridor recently erected along the front is omitted in the
Sketch.
From the above particulars it is evident that this structure is not of
great age, probably not eaidier than the sixteenth century ; but it occupies
the site of a much older castle. It was here that William the Lion, in the
twelfth century, erected the fortress of Ederdour, to strengthen his
position in the country north of the Beauly Frith, which he had just
* We have to thank Mr. Bryce for the Plan of this mansion.
FOURTH PERIOD
_ 624 —
REDCASTLE
acquired as an addition to his Scottish kingdom. In 11-9 l,e also
Ztruct^d anothe,. castle in the Black Isle, called Ormond or Avoch
Castle. This fortress was situated on the north s,de o the Fr.th of
Inverness, at the entrance to the Bay of Munlochy In the Pro^edurgs
oftU Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, 1884-5, p. «0, an accoun of tire
foundations of this castle is given by Mr. Angus J. Beaton, O.E., from
I
Fio. 578.-Redcastle. View from South.
which it would seem to have been a large rectangular enclosure, about 150
feet Ion- by 100 feet wide, strengthened with towers at the angles and
several ditches and outworks. It would thus bear considerable resemblance
to the simple specimens of the castles of the First Period, such as Castle
Roy, near Grantown, Kinclaven, &c. There can be little doubt but that
these castles are for the most part prior to Bruce's time ; and this one, if
CASTLE LEOD
625
FOURTH PERIOD
it could be proved to be the original one, would carry back the style of
the First Period to an earlier date than has yet been ascertained.
The Castle of Redcastle belonged in 1230 to Sir John Bysset, in 1278
to Sir Andrew de Bosco, and in 1455 the Black Isle or Ardmannache
was annexed to the Crown.
CASTLE LEOD,* Cromarty.
This interesting and well-preserved specimen of the dwellings of our
Highland chiefs is pleasantly situated near the village of Strathpeffer, in
the midst of splendid old trees and a well-kept park.
s' ,-* J""'
Fio. 579.— Castle Leod. View from North-East.
* We are indebted for the Plans of Castle Leod to tlie kindness of Mr. Gunn, the
factor on the estate, and Mr. Joass, architect, Dingwall.
2 r
FOURTH PERIOD
— 626 —
CASTLE LEOD
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CASTLE LEOD
627
FOURTH PERIOD
Sir William Fraser, in his Earls of Cromartie, states that Castle
Leod was built by Sir Rorie Mackenzie, and was one of the seats of his
descendants, the Earls of Cromarty. It still belongs to the same family,
in the person of the Duchess of Sutherland. The dormers on the north
side (seen in Fig. 579) contain the initials R. M. K., for the said Roderick
Fig. 581.— Castle Leod. View from South- West.
(or Rorie) Mackenzie, and M. M.O., for Margaret M'Leod, his wife, with
the date 1616 ; while the details of the building correspond with that period.
As originally designed, the castle has been a modification of the L Plan
(Fig. 580), the wing being projected beyond the north side of the main
block. At a slightly later date the re-entering angle between the main
building and the wing has been nearly tilled up with an addition, the
object of which was to provide a wide square staircase to the first floor (a
FOURTH PERIOD
628
BRIMS CASTLE
convenience which was considered essential as the seventeenth century
progressed), and also to furnish some additional bedrooms in the different
floors. This is apparent from the great thickness of the central wall,
which was originally the southern external wall, and from the way in
which the addition is fitted on to the older structure. The original castle
has had an open parapet at the wall-head, with bartizans at the angles like
those shown in the North-East View (Fig. 579) ; but the newer addition (as
seen in the South- West View, Fig. 581) covers up this parapet on the original
front wall, and is carried up a story higher, and finished with ornamental
dormers and pyramidal-roofed turrets, such as were usual at a somewhat
later date ; some of the other angle turrets and dormers were also probably
added at the same time. The entrance door, which is in the addition, has
been ornamented with a large and elaborately carved coat of arms, which
is now illegible. The ground floor contains the kitchen in the wing and
cellars in the main block. Above the latter, on the first floor, was the hall
(32 feet 6 inches by 20 feet), with a large fireplace at one end and private
room in the wing (now converted, along with part of the addition, into
the drawing-room). The three upper floors provide numerous bedrooms.
BRIMS CASTLE,* Caithness-shire.
This example of a late keep (Fig. 583), with small wing to contain the
staircase, is situated near the coast, about six miles west from Thurso. The
<-^i/<^'
Fig. 582.— Brims Castle. View from Noith-East.
* The drawings of this castle and notes regarding it have been kindly supplied
to us by the Rev. A. Miller.
BRIMS CASTLE
— 629 —
FOURTH PERIOD
lowest flight of the staircase is now built up, and may have been so con-
structed from the first, the entrance to the keep being on the first floor,
where it gives access to the staircase. A trap in the floor of the hall com-
municates with the basement, which is vaulted. There is also the usual
small private staircase from the hall to the cellar. Two floors occur above
the hall, each containing a single room 16 feet by 14 feet. The arrange-
ments of the plan recall such examples as Coxton and Hallbar. At the
A,TTIC TLOOH PLAN
SECOND FLOOR
Fio. 583.— Brims Castle. Plans.
upper landing of the staircase a rounded bartizan or turret (Fig. 582) pro-
jects immediately over the entrance doorway, which it seems to have been
designed to protect ; the corbelling is of a late date. Between the keep
and the rocks lay the courtyard, a moulded and arched gate from which
still leads down towards the sea. The structure filling up the angle to
the west of the staircase is probably a kitchen added at a later date. The
building is now used in connection with a farm-steading, and has been a
little added to and altered, but still preserves its original character.
FOURTH PERIOD
630
DOWNREAY CASTLE
DOWNREAY CASTLE,* Oaithness-shire.
A structure on the L Plan (Fig. 584), situated at the extreme north-west
angle of Caithness-shire, and is the only castle in that part of the county.
The castle existed in 1614, and was then the property of William Sinclair
of Dunbeath, who was that year besieged in it by the brother of the Earl
of Caithness. It was conveyed to Lord Forbes, who sold it to Sir Donald
Mackay in 1624. The castle was occupied by Cromwell's soldiers, and
1
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KITCHEN
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Fig. 584. — Downrcay Castle. I'laus.
continued to be inhabited till 1863, but has since been allowed to fall into
ruin.
It is interesting to find in this remote and unsettled district a mansion
so completely Scottish in style (Fig. 585). The ground floor consists of
cellars, but is not vaulted. The entrance door occupies the usual
position in the re-entering angle, and was defended with the ordinary sliding
* These Plans and particulars are kindly supplied by the Rev. A. Miller.
ARDVRECK CASTLE
— 631 —
FOURTH PERIOD
bar and shot-holes. A good square staircase leads to the first floor, from
the landing of which a small newel stair within the wall (which is thickened
to receive it) leads to the upper floor. From the room over the principal
staircase another small stair leads to the top floor of the tower, and a
;^.:^^::'"*^
Fig. 5S5. — Downreay Castle.
central wooden stair to the attics over the main building. On the first
floor there are the hall and private room, the window recesses being
fitted with seats and small cupboards and garde-i'obes in the walls, &c. In
every respect it seems to be almost precisely the same as the houses of
similar capacity erected in the Lowlands about the same period.
ARDVRECK CASTLE,* Sutherlandshire.
Not far from the eastern end of Loch A ssynt stand two ruinous but
interesting buildings. One of these is the old Castle of Ardvreck, the
residence of Neil Macleod, the Laird of Assynt, who in 1650 apprehended
James Gi-aham, Marquis of Montrose, and secured him in this keep.
The castle was built towards the end of the sixteenth century. It
* We have to thank J. W. Burns, Esq., for drawings and particulars of this castle.
FOURTH PERIOD
— 632 —
ARDVRECK CASTLE
occupies the neck of a long rocky peninsula on the north-east side of the
loch and about one and a half miles from its head. The other structure
is Edderchalder or Calda House, which stands at the south-east point of
the loch, and was erected in 1660 by Kenneth Mackenzie, third Earl of
Seaforth. The two buildings are both seen in the Sketch (Fig. 586), which
shows the ruins of Edderchalder in the foregrouud and Ardvreck in the
distance. The traveller is surprised in passing through this wild region,
where the ruins of ancient castles are almost unknown, to come suddenly
on two such specimens, standing close together. The last castle was
destroyed by fire . in the middle of last century. The Seafield estates,
Fio. 586. — Edderchalder and Ardvreck Castles.
being forfeited, were purchased in 1768 by the Earl of Sutherland, and the
whole parish is the property of the present duke.
The plan (Fig. 587) shows the condition of Ardvreck Castle to be very
fragmentary, but it has evidently been a simple keep, with a round stair-
case tower at the south-east angle, corbelled out on the upper floors to form
square rooms. The small turret stair to the upper rooms is, as usual,
carried on corbelling in the re-entering angle. The ground floor was
divided into three compartments, all vaulted. That on the south side is
a mere passage, 3 feet 9 inches wide, into which the entrance door
probably opened from the east, and by the passage access was obtained to
the other vaults and to the staircase. From the loopholes pierced in the
south wall the passage was also evidently intended as a place of defence.
EDDERCHALDER OR CALDA HOUSE 633
FOURTH PERIOD
There seem to have been four stories above the basement floor. The first
floor would, as usual, be occupied by the hall, to which a wide wheel-stair-
case in the angle tower would give access. This floor has also been
vaulted, and the upper floors simply joisted. The corbelling out of the
tower, to the square from the round (see Fig. 587), is efl^ected in a very
simple manner by squared flagstones, pushed out one over the other. That
;;^^^^^=^^^
Fig. 587. — Ardvreck Castle. Plan and View.
of the angle tur'ret, which is 6 feet lower than the other, has rounded
corbels of the ordinary type, finished oS" with one Old Gothic -shaped
course on top, above which flat stones bring the angular stair turret to a
straight face.
Edderchalder or Calda House is much decayed, but its general plan
is quite distinguishable. It is an oblong block (see Fig. 586), divided into
FOURTH PERIOD
634 EDDERCHALDER OR CALDA HOUSE
two by a longitudiual wall down the centre. It has thus the peculiarity of
being a double house, with apartments lit by windows on one side only.
Each of the two divisions of the block has a separate roof, which thus forms
a double gable at each end. The structure has two full stories and an attic,
and each half of every floor seems to have been divided into three compart-
ments, thus providing space for five apartments and a central staircase on
each floor. The chimneys are arranged for such a division, there being
one in each gable on every floor and several in the central stack.
Dovecot in Burns Street, Leith
INDEX.
Aberuchill Castle, desci-iption, 582.
Achallader Castle, description 585.
Achanduin Castle, description, 75.
Acliiiacass Castle, description, 105.
Ackergill Tower, description, 250.
Ailsa Craig Castle, description, 206.
Anderson, Dr Joseph, 3.
Anderson, \Yilliam, architect (Gamels-
cleuch), 403 ; (Blackhouse), 404 ; (Oak-
wood), 408; (Minto), 420; (Hillslap
Tower, Colmslie, and Langshaw), 547 ;
(Buckholm), 551.
Anstruther Manse, description, 560.
Ardchonnel Castle, description, 87 ;
Donald Dnbh prisoner at, 89.
Ardrossan Castle, description, 301.
Ardstinchar Castle, description, 302 ;
monument at, 304.
Ardtornish Castle, description, 122.
Ardvreck Castle, description, 631.
Armstrong, R. B. (Hollows), 217 ; (Bon-
shaw), 400.
Arnot Tower, description, 245.
Aros Castle, description 125.
Aslisk Castle, description, 610.
Auchen Castle, 105.
Auchenvole, description, 474.
Auchinleck Castle, description, 496.
Auchteidony or Kelly Castle, descrip-
tion, 599.
Baird, John (»Stonebyres), 438 ; (Haggs),
478.
Balcruivie. See Pitcruivie.
Balfour Castle, description, 337.
Balfluig Castle, 600.
Balhousie Castle, description, 585.
Baliol Castle. See Loch Doon.
Ballantrae, Kennedy monument, 304.
Ballinshoe Castle, description, 598.
Ballumbie Castle, description, 158.
Balmanno Castle, description, 579.
Balmuto Tower, description, 247.
Baltersan Castle, description, 502.
Balthayock Castle, description 132.
Bandon Tower, description, 456.
Bannachra Castle, description, 445.
Bannatyne House, description, 592.
Barcaldine Castle, description, 618.
Bardowie Castle, description, 236.
Barholm Castle, description, 520.
Barns Tower, description, 414.
Barr Castle, Lochwinuoch, description,
183.
■ Tower, Galston, description, 201.
Barscobe House, description, 523.
Bavelaw Castle, description, 531.
Bedlay House, description, 467.
Bemei'syde Castle, description, 220.
Billle Castle, description, 220.
Billings, R. W., work at Dalzell, 316.
Bishopton, Old, description, 489.
Blackhouse Castle, description, 404.
Blackness Castle, description, 225.
Blairlogie Castle, description, 577.
Blanc, H. J. (Loch Ranza), 490.
Boddam Castle, description, 250.
Boghall Castle, description, 320.
Boharm or Gouldwell Castle, 609.
Bonhard, description, 533.
Bonshaw Tower, description, 398.
Borve Castle, description, 115.
Bow Windows, 36.
Braal Castle, description, 137.
Breacacha Castle, description, 117.
Bridge Castle, description, 275.
Brims Castle, description, 628.
Brochs, 3.
Bi'odick Castle, description, 285.
Bruce's Castle, Stirlingshire, description,
245.
Turnberry, description, 110.
636
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
Bryce, John (Dalhousie), 144 ; (Craig-
nish), 173 ; (Kames), 192 ; (Sorn),
200; (Guthrie), 248; (Ackergill), 250;
(Stonebyres), 438 ; (Redcastle), 623.
Bucholie Castle, description, 338.
Buckholm Castle, description, 551.
Burns, J. W. (Castle Maoil), 172 ; (Castle
Varrich), 253 ; (Kilmahew), 443 ; (Ard-
vreck), 631.
Burton, J. Hill, on Castles of the Islands,
14.
Busbie Castle, description, 372.
Calda or Edderchalder House, de-
scription, 632.
Calderwood, description, 442.
Carberry Tower, description, 430.
Cardrona Tower, description, 554.
Garden Tower, description, 456.
Carleton Castle, description, 209.
Carmichael, Alex. (Borve Castle), 115.
Carsleuth Castle, description, 513.
Carrick Castle, description, 186.
Cassillis Castle, description, 131.
Castle Building, origin of, 2.
Castle Gary, description, 439.
Coeffin, description, 120.
Craig, description, 465.
Drumin, description, 134.
Grant, description, 611.
Castleliill, description, 416.
Castle Lachlan, description, 357.
Leod, description, 625.
Maoil, description, 172.
Mearnaig, description, 170.
Sliuna, description, 447.
Stalcaire, description, 162 ; Celtic
ornament at, 163.
Swin, description, 58 ; keep of, 60.
Varrich, description, 253.
Castles, thirteenth century, 4.
fii'st period, 14, 41.
second period, 19.
third period, 23.
foui'th period, 32.
Cathcart Castle, description, 233.
Cessford Castle, description, 138.
Chivalry in Scotland, 29.
Christie, T. Craig (Bedlay), 467.
Christison, Dr. D. (Moy Castle), 127;
(Castle Stalcaire), 102 ; (Castle Shuna),
447.
Churches, decorated period, 19.
first pointed, 7.
Norman, 7.
Scottish style, 37.
Cleish Castle, description, 569.
Clonbeith Castle, description, 374.
Closeburn Castle, description, 128 ; J.
Hill Burton and Captain Grose, 130.
Cluny Castle, description, 589.
Cockburnspath Tower, description, 220.
Colinton Castle, description, 540.
Coll. See Breacacha.
Collegiate churches of fifteenth century,
25.
Colmslie, description, 547.
Colquhonny Castle, description, 459.
Comrie Castle, description, 583.
Corbelling, 31.
Corbett Castle, description, 423.
Corsbie Castle, description, 426.
Coi'sehill Castle, 495.
Corstorphine Church, view of, 30.
Courtyard Plans, 21, 292.
Covington Tower, description, 239.
Cowdenknowes, description, 425.
Craig Caflie Tower, description, 388.
Craigie Castle, description, 296.
Craiglockhart Castle, description, 227.
Craignish Castle, description, 173.
Cramond Tower, description, 432.
Cramond, Wm. (Fordyce), 606.
Cranshaws Castle, description, 428.
Crawfurdland Castle, description, 384.
Creich Castle, description, 568.
Crosraguel Abbey — gatehouse, descrip-
tion, 385.
Crossbasket, description, 442.
Culdees, 6.
Cumbrae Castle, Little, description, 173.
Dalhousie Castle, description, 144.
Dalquharran Castle, description, 344.
Dalzell Castle, description, 312.
Darleith Castle, description, 447.
Denmilne Castle, description, 291.
Dirlot Castle, description, 253.
Downreay Castle, description, 630.
Dovecot, Burns Street, Leith — Tail-
piece, 634.
Drumlochy Castle, description, 458.
Drummelzier Castle, description, 553.
Dryhope, description, 403.
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND
— 637 —
Duart Castle, description, 46 ; keep, 47 ;
laws regarding chiefs, 51.
Duchal Castle, description, 156.
Duchray Castle, description, 577.
Dunblane Cathedral, view of tower, 28.
Dundarave Castle, description, 613.
Dundas, Robert, of Arniston (Newbyrcs),
538.
Dunfermline Abbey, view of western
tower, 28.
Dunglass Castle, description. 305.
Church, views of, 26. 27.
Dunscaich Castle, description, 87.
Dunskey Castle, description, 507.
Duntroon Castle, description, 85.
Dunure Castle, description, 341.
Dunvegan Castle, description, 77.
E Plans, 34.
Earlston Castle, description, 521.
Easter Clune, description, 458.
Ecclesiastical Architecture, 2, 6, 19;
revival of, 24.
Edderchalder or Calda House, descrip-
tion, 632.
Edgar, James (Duntroon), 85 ; (Craig-
nish), 173.
Edingham Castle, description, 398.
Elchies, Easter, description, 609.
Wester, description, 610.
EUandonan Castle, description, 82 ;
water cistern at, 84.
EUan-Tirrim, description, 56 ; keep of, 58.
Esslemont Castle, description, 603.
Evelaw Tower, description, 546.
Falrburn Tower, description, 462.
Fairlie Castle, description, 173.
Fast Castle, description, 222.
Fat Lips Tower. See Minto Tower,
Fernie Castle, description, 566.
Findlater Castle, description. 340.
Findochty Castle, description, 608.
Finhaven Castle, description, 594.
Finlarig Castle, description, 583.
Fire-arms, effect of, 33.
First Period, Castles of, 14, 41.
Flemington House, description, 592.
Fordyce Castle, description, 606.
Forter Castle, description, 596.
Fourmerkland Tower, description, 394.
Fourth Period, characteristics of, 32 ;
description of style of, 364 ; influence
of Renaissance, 370 ; churches, monu-
ments, and sun-dials, 371 ; simple
keeps, 372.
Fragmentary Remains, 156.
French Chateaux, different from Scottish
castles, 31.
Frenchland Tower, description, 552.
FyflFe, John J. (Borve Castle), 115.
Galdenoch Castle, description, 506.
Galloway, William (Barr Castle), 183;
(Sorbie), 519.
Gamelscleuch, description, 403.
Gammelshiel Castle, description, 4,30.
Garrion Tower, description, 476.
Garth Castle, description, 458.
Giffen Castle, description, 194.
Glengarnock Castle, description, 293.
Gogar House, description, 525.
Goldielands Tower, description, 413.
Gordon, H. Wolridge (Esslemont), 603.
Gouldwell or Boharm Castle, 609.
Graham, R. C. (Skipness), 63,
Greenan Castle, description, 383.
Greenknowe Castle, description, 542.
Greenock, The Mansion House, descrip-
tion, 484,
Gunn, Mr, (Castle Leod), 625,
Guthrie Castle, description, 248,
Haggs Castle, description, 478.
Haliburton, Andrew (Ledger of), 23,
Hall, the changes in, 32.
Hamilton, Lord, of Dalzell, 312 ; (Jervis-
ton House), 474,
Hatton House, description, 268,
Haystoun House, description, 555,
Hebrides, Castles in, 12,
Herbertshire Castle, description, 537.
Hessilhead Castle, description, 375,
Highlands and Islands, Castles of, 9, 10,
12,
Highland chiefs, laws regarding, 51.
Hills Castle, description, 390.
Hillslap Tower, description, 547,
Hirendean Castle, description, 419,
Hollows Tower, description, 217.
Home Castle, description, 106.
Horsburgh Castle, description, 418.
Nether, description, 418.
Hunterston Castle, description, 194.
INDEX
638 —
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
Hutcheoufielcl Tower, 419.
Inch House, description, 528.
Innerwick Castle, description, 325.
Invergarry Castle, description, 620.
Invermark Castle, description, 459.
Inverquharity Castle, description, 282.
Isle Tower, description, 393.
Jerviston House, description, 474.
Joass, William C. (Fairburn Tower), 462 ;
(Castle Leod), 625.
Johnstone, A. (Ballumbie), 158.
Kames Castle, description, 192.
Kelly Castle (Forfarshire), description,
599.
Kennedy, James A. L. (Craiglockhart),
227.
Kennedy Monument, Ballantrae, 304.
Kildonan Castle, description, 125.
Kilhenzie Castle, description, 387.
Killundine Castle, description, 447.
Kilmahew Castle, description, 443.
Kincardine Castle, description. 111.
King Edward Castle, description, 112.
Kinlochaline Castle, description, 168.
Kinneil Castle, description, 228.
Kii-khope Tower, description, 405.
Kisraul Castle, description, 51 ; keep at,
54.
Knockdolian Castle, description, 387.
L Plans, 33, 138, 256, 467.
Lag Tower, description, 396.
Lamington Tower, description, 436.
Langshaw, description, 547.
Law Castle, description, 173.
Leith Hall (Aberdeenshire), 600.
Lennox Castle, description, 224.
Lethendy Tower, description, 590.
Lethington Castle, description, 256.
Lessels, James (Cleish), 569.
Linlithgow Church, view of porch, 38.
Literature, Scottish, gi'owth of, during
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, 24.
Littledean Castle, description, 351.
Lismore Cathedral, 75.
Loch Doon Castle, description, 96 ; early
English work at, 99 ; keep at, 100.
Lochnaw Castle, description, 210.
Loch Ore Castle, description, 241.
Loch Ranza Castle, description, 490.
Lordscairnie Castle, description, 278.
Lumphanan, 5.
Lyon, Walter F. (Fourmerkland), 394;
(Meggernie), 457 ; (Newbyres), 538.
Mains Castle, description, 231.
Mansion House, Greenock, description,
484.
Mauchline Castle, description, 202.
Maybole Castle, description, 498.
Meggernie Castle, description, 457.
Melrose Abbey, Tower, view of, 39.
Mercliiston Castle, description, 263.
Middleton, Professor (Skipness), 63.
Miller, Rev. A. (Old Man of Wick), 134
(Braal Castle), 137 ; (Dirlot), 253
(Castle Varrich), 253 ; (Bucholie), 338
(Findochty), 608 ; (Brims), 628 ; (Down-
reay), 630.
Milne, George Gordon (Inverquharity),
282 ; (Balfour), 337 ; (Invermark), 459 ;
(Forter), 596 ; (Ballinshoe), 598.
Mingarry Castle, description, 42.
Minto Tower, description, 420.
Mochrum, Old Place of, description, 349.
Monasteries, Establishment of, 8.
Monimail Castle, description, 448.
Monkland House, description, 471.
Monuments in Scottish style, 37, 40.
Moulin Castle, description, 109.
Moy Castle, desci'iption, 127.
Mugdock Castle, description, 308.
Murray, D. (Dunscaich), 87.
Mackenzie, Cossar (Castle Stalcaire), 162.
M'Kinnon, Rev. D. (Dunscaich), 87.
M'Lachlan, John (Castle Lachlan), 357.
(Craig Caffie Tower), 388.
Nether Horsburgh Castle, description,
418.
Netherlands, Trade with, 23.
Newark Castle, Ayrshire, description,
378.
Newbattle Abbey, description, 354.
Newbyres Tower, description, 538.
Newmilns Tower, description,' 377.
Newton House, Doune, Perthshire,
description, 581.
Nichol, Rev. Mr (Ballumbie), 159.
Norie, H. H. (Balhousie), 585.
Norman churclies in Scotland, 7.
Norman Conquest, 5, 17.
Normans in Scotland, 8.
ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND
— C39
INDEX
Norman keeps, 2, 3, 5.
Nuuraw Castle, description, 353.
Oakwood Tower, description, 408.
Old Bishopton, description, 489.
Oliphant, T. T. (Queen Mary's), 563.
Ormiston, W. (Balhousie), 585.
Park House, description, 515.
Patterson, C. M. (Newbattle), 354.
Penkill Castle, description, 204.
Pinwhei-ry Castle, description, 504.
Pitcruivie Castle, description, 247.
Pitairthie Castle, description, 562.
Pitfirrane Castle, description, 572.
Pitheavlis Castle, description, 588.
Pitteadie Castle, description, 450.
PittuUie Castle, description, 605.
Pointed windows at Mingarry, 45.
Duart, 49.
Castle Swin, 60.
Portincross Castle, description, 151.
Posso Castle, description, 417.
Railton, William (Kildonan), 125 ;
(Sorn), 200 ; (Cathcart), 233 ; (Craigie),
296 ; (Busbie), 372 ; (Clonbeith), 374.
Ravenscraig Castle, Aberdeenshire, de-
scription, 149.
Redcastle, Ross-shire, description, 623.
Reformation, influence of the, 30.
Remains, Fi'agmentary, 156.
Roberton, James D. (Newark), 378 ; (Bon-
shaw, Robgill, and Wardhouse Towers),
398 ; (Garrion Tower), 476.
Robgill Tower, description, 398.
Rossdhu Castle, description, 447.
Rossend Castle, description, 559.
Royal Scottish Academy (Ballumbie),
158 ; (Blackness), 226 ; (Cathcart), 233 ;
(Boghall), 324 ; (Newark), 379 ; (Auch-
inleck), 497.
Rusco Castle, description, 213.
Saddell Castle, description, 197.
Seafield Tower, description, 449.
Second Period, castles of, 17, 114 ; enlarge-
ment of, 20 ; fragmentary remains,
156 ; simple keeps, 115 ; L plans, 138.
Simple Keeps, 115, 160, 372.
Skelmorlie Castle, description, 173.
Skene, Mr., of Rubislaw (Tillycairn), 601.
Skipness Castle, description, 63 ; keep
at, 68 ; portcullis gate, 68 ; chapel at,
72 ; charter of (1261), 74.
Slains, Old, Castle, description, 249.
Smith, J. Guthrie (Bardowie), 236 ;
(Mugdock), 308 ; (Duchray), 577-
Sorbie Castle, description, 519.
Sorn Castle, description, 200.
Special Plans, 340.
Stair House, description, 495.
Stanely Castle, description, 280.
Stewart, J, Lome (Breacacha), 117.
Stonebyres, description, 438.
Stranraer Castle, description, 511.
St. Andrews Castle, description, 328 ;
siege of, 335.
St. Andrews, Queen Mary's, description,
563.
T Plans, 34.
Tailpiece — Dovecot, Burns Street, Leith,
634.
Third Period Castles, 23 ; simple keeps,
160 ; L plans, 256 ; coui-tyard plans,
292 ; special plans, 340.
Thirlstane Castle, Selkirkshire, descrip-
tion, 402.
Thomaston Castle, description, 289.
Thomson, A. G. (Penkill), 204.
Tillycairn Castle, description, 601.
Timpendean Castle, description, 421.
Tinnies Castle, description, 159.
Town Houses, 31.
Turnberry. See Bruce's Castle.
Turriff Church, Belfry of, Aberdeenshire
— title-page.
Ukquhart Castle, description, 90 ; keep
at, 94 ; charter to, 92.
Vaulting, 27
Vikings in the islands, 10.
Warehouse Tower, description, 398.
Watson, T. L. (Breacacha), 117.
Watt, J. Crabb (Kincardine), 111.
Westhall, description, 601.
White, Captain (Skipness), 75.
Wick, Old Man of, description, 134.
Williamson, George (Mansion House,
Greenock), 484.
Wrae Castle, 418.
Young, Harry (Cleish Castle), 569.
ARCHITECTURAL
ARCH^OLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL WORKS
RECENTLY PUBLISHED
By DAVID DOUGLAS
Four Volumes, Royal d>vo, 42s. net each Volume, with about
500 Illitstrations in each Volume.
THE
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC
ARCHITECTURE
OF SCOTLAND
FROM THE TWELFTH TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
BY
DAVID MACGIBBON and THOMAS ROSS
ARCHITECTS
VOLUME ONE
" One of the most important and complete books on Scottish architecture that
has ever been compiled. Its value to the architect, the archaeologist, and the
student of styles is at once apparent. It consists almost exclusively of what may be
called illustrated architectural facts, well digested and arranged, and constituting a
monument of patient research, capable draughtsmanship, and of well sustained effort,
which do the aiithors infinite credit," — Scotsman.
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
The FIRST VOLUME contains:—
Iiilroduction. — Giving a sketch of the Castellated Architecture of France and
England, so as to connect that of Scotland with the rest of Europe, and containing
illustrations of French and English Castles, viz. : —
Chateaux d'Arques— de Beaugency — de Loches
—Colchester Castle— Newcastle— Castle Heding-
ham— Rochester Castle— Dover Castle— Mont du
Chevalier, Cannes— Shell keeps— Chateau de Gisors
— Chateau d'Etampes- Chateau Gaillard— Chateau
de Provins--Conisborough Castle— Walls of Aigues
Mortes— Chateau de St Andre — Tour du Pont —
Chateau de Coucy — Tower of Jeanne d'Arc —
Carnarvon Castle — Pevensey Castle — Chateau de
Pierrefonds — Warwick Castle — Bodiam Castle-
Chateau de Montsabert — House of Francis i. —
Hurstmonceaux Castle.
FIRST PERIOD— 1200-1300.
Castle Roy, .
Kinclaven Castle,
Lochindorb Castle,
Loch-an-Eilan Castle,
Inverlochy Castle,
Lochmaben Castle,
Rothesay Castle, .
Dunstaffnage Castle,
Tnverness-shire
Perthshire
Elginshire
Inverness-shire
Do.
Dumfriesshire
Buteshire
Argyllshire
Bothwell Castle, .
Kildrummie Castle,
Dirleton Castle, .
Yester Castle,
Hailes Castle,
Caerlaverock Castle,
Tarbert Castle,
Lanarkshire
Aberdeenshire
Haddingtonshire
Do.
Do.
Dumfriesshire
Argyllshire
1st,
Lochleven Castle,
Drum Castle,
Alloa Tower,
Hallforest, .
Threave Castle, .
Dundonald Castle,
Torthorwald Castle,
Clackmannan Tower,
Simple Towers.
Kinross-shire
Aberdeenshire
Clackmannanshire
Aberdeenshire
Kirkcudbrightshire
Ayrshire
Dumfriesshire
Clackmannanshire
SECOND PERIOD-1300-MOO
Neidpath Castle,
Peeblesshire
2d, Keeps extended into Courtyards.
Craigmillar Castle, . Midlothian
Castle Campbell, . . Clackmannanshire
Crichton Castle, . . Midlothian
Comparison of Scottish Castles of this period
with those of France and England — The keep
plan universal in Scotland.
THIRD PERIOD— 1400-1542.
I. Simple Keeps.
Liberton Tower, .
Mearns Tower, .
Elphinstone Castle,
Comlongan Castle,
C.ardoness Castle,
Newark Castle, .
Affleck or Auchenlccl
Castle,
Craignethan Castle,
Sauchie Tower, .
Kinnaird Tower, .
Burleigh Castle, .
Duffus Castle,
Redcastle, .
Dunolly Castle, .
Benholme Tower,
Drummond Castle,
Rosyth Castle,
Leven Castle,
Inverkip Castle, .
Craigneil Castle, .
Kilkerran Castle,
Whittingham Tower,
Balquhain Castle,
Darnaway Castle,
Badenheath Castle,
Cairnbulg Castle,
Farme Castle,
Midlothian
Renfrewshire
Haddingtonshire
Dumfriesshire
Kirkcudbrightshire
Selkirkshire
Forfarshire
Lanarkshire
Clackmannanshire
Perthshire
Kinross-shire
Elginshire
Forfarshire
Argyllshire
Kincardineshire
Perthshire
Fifeshire
Renfrewshire
Do.
Ayrshire
Do.
Haddingtonshire
Aberdeenshire
Elginshire
Dumbartonshire
Aberdeenshire
Lanarkshire
II. Keeps with One or Two Wings.
Auchindoun Castle,
Preston Tower, .
Castle Huntly, .
Gight, or Formantine
Castle,
Niddrie Castle, .
Craig Castle,
Dundas Castle, .
Balvaird Castle, .
Borthwick Castle,
.Avondale Castle, .
Struthers Castle, .
Stoneypath Tower,
Federate Castle, .
Banffshire
Haddingtonshire
Perthshire
Aberdeenshire
Linlithgowshire
Aberdeenshire
Linlithgowshire
Fifeshire
Midlothian
Lanarkshire
Fifeshire
Haddingtonshire
Aberdeenshire
III. Keeps enlarged in various ways by
Additions.
1st, Keeps enlarged into Castles surroianiin!^' a
Courtyard.
Forfarshire
Edzell Castle,
Rosslyn Castle, .
Balgonie Castle. .
Kilchuni Castle, .
Kilravock Castle,
Balveny Castle, .
Kilbirnie Castle, .
Ruthven Castle,
Huntingtower, .
Midlothian
Fifeshire
Argyllshire
Nairnshire
Banftshire
Ayrshire
Perthshire
Dean Castle, Kilmarnock, Ayrshire
Falside Castle, . . Haddingtonshire
Haining, or Almond Castle, Linlithgowshire
.Sanquhar Castle, . Dumfriesshire
2iid, Castles designed as buildings surrounding a
Courtyard.
Perthshire
Doune Castle,
Tantallon Castle,
Dirleton Castle, .
Spynie Palace,
Edinburgh Castle,
Stirling Castle,
Linlithgow Palace,
Falkland Palace, .
House of the Knight:
Hospitallers,
Dunfermline Palace,
Haddingtonshire
Do.
Elginshire
Edinburgh
Stirlingshire
Linlithgowshire
Fifeshire
Linlithgow
Fifeshire
Bishop's Palace, Kirkwall, Orkney
Exceptional Modifications of the Keep Plan.
Hermitage Castle,
Crookston Castle,
Ravenscraig Castle,
Morton Castle,
Tullyallan Castle,
Rait Castle,
Arbroath Abbey, .
Roxburghshire
Renfrewshire
Fifeshire
Dumfriesshire
Perthshire
Nairnshire
Forfarshire
Changes of Domestic Architecture from
Fifteenth to Seventeenth Century.
Dunnottar Castle, Kincardineshire
The SECOND VOLUME contains
illustrations and Descriptions of tlie following Castles: —
FOURTH PERIOD— 1542-1700
I. Simple Keeps.
Amisfield Tower, . Dumfriesshiie
Coxton lower,
Hallbar Tower, .
Knock Castle,
Kinnaird Head Castle
Smailholm Tower,
Lochhouse Tower,
Scotstarvet Tower,
Udny Castle,
Speedlin's Tower,
Birse Castle,
Towie Barclay, .
Delgaty Castle, .
Abergeldie Castle,
Cakemuir Castle,
Bishop's House, Elgin,
Repentance, Tower of,
Niddrie Marischall House, Midlothian
Corgarff Castle, . . Aberdeenshire
II. Keeps with One Wing-, or the L Plan.
F.lshieshields Tower, . Dumfriesshire
Elginshire
Lanarkshire
Aberdeenshire
Do.
Roxburghshire
Dumfriesshire
Fifeshire
Aberdeenshire
Dumfriesshire
Aberdeenshire
Do.
Do.
Do.
Midlothian
Elginshire
Dumfriesshire
Gylem Castle,
Brackie Castle,
Muckrach Castle,
Balbegno Castle, .
Blairfindy Castle,
Drumcoltran Castle,
Gilbertfield Castle,
Evelick Castle, .
Scalloway Castle,
Towie Castle,
Elcho Castle,
Craigievar Castle,
Crathes Castle, .
Glamis Castle,
Kellie Castle,
Lickleyhead Castle,
Ochiltree Castle, .
Hoddam Castle, .
Mar Castle, .
Fiddes Castle,
Killochan Castle,
Kirkhill Castle, .
INIaclellan's House,
Inchdrewer Castle,
Ferniehirst Castle,
Torwoodhead Castle.
Knockhall Castle,
Peffermill House,
Erchless Castle, .
Stenhouse Castle,
Collarnie Castle, .
Auchans Castle, .
Dalcross Castle, .
Balbythan Castle,
Northfield House,
Granton Castle,
Argyllshire
Forfarshire
Inverness-shire
Kincardineshire
Banffshire
Kirkcudbrightshire
Lanarkshire
Perthshire
Shetland
Aberdeenshire
Perthshire
Aberdeenshire
Do.
Forfarshire
Fifeshire
Aberdeenshire
Linlithgowshire
Dumfriesshire
Aberdeenshire
Kincardineshne
Ayrshire
Ayrshire
Kirkcudbrightshire
Banffshire
Roxburghshire
Stirlingshire
Aberdeenshire
iMidlothian
Inverness-shire
Stirlingshire
Fifeshire
Ayrshire
Inverness-shire
Aberdeenshire
Haddingtonshire
Midlothian
Bishop's House, Breckness, Orkriey
Innerpeffrey Castle,
Williamstoun House,
Kelty House,
Leslie Castle.
Hopetoun Tower,
Innes House,
Perthshire
Do.
Do.
Aberdeenshire
Linlithgowshire
Elginshire
III. Keeps with Diagonally Opposite Towers.
Terpersie Castle,
Claypotts Castle,
Notland Castle, .
Drochil Castle, .
Castle Eraser,
Fordell Castle
Glenbucket Castle
Harthill Castle, .
Inchoch Castle, .
Ballone Castle,
Kilcoy Castle,
Aberdeenshire
Forfarshire
Orkney
Peeblesshire
Aberdeenshire
Fifeshire
Aberdeenshire
Do.
Nairnshire
Ross-shire
Do.
Muness Castle,
Burgle Castle,
Blervie Castle,
Corse Castle,
Keiss Castle,
Moncur Castle,
Fenton Castle,
Eden Castle,
GrantuUy Castle
Huntly Castle,
Earlshall,
Druminnor Castle
Tilquhilly Castle,
Newton Castle, .
Shetland
Elginshire
Do.
Aberdeenshire
Caithness-shire
Perthshire
Haddingtonshire
Banffshire
Perthshire
Aberdeenshire
Fifeshire
Aberdeenshire
Kincardineshire
Perthshire
IV. Castles with Courtyards.
Scoitisk Type.
Tolquhan Castle,
Boyne Castle,
Girnigoe Castle, .
Cawdor Castle, .
Inverugie Castle,
Birsay Castle,
Inverallochy Castle,
Barnes Castle,
Dornoch Palace, .
Earl Patrick's Palace,
Fyvie Castle,
Balcomie Castle, .
Stobhall Castle, .
Muchalls Castle, .
Midmar Castle, .
Rowallan Castle, .
Mains Castle,
Pinkie House,
Barra Castle,
AUardyce Castle,
Airth Castle,
Corehouse Castle,
Ethie Castle,
Menstrie Castle, .
Aberdeenshire
Banffshire
Caithness-shire
Nairnshire
Aberdeenshire
Orkney
Aberdeenshire
Haddingtonshire
Sutherlandshire
Orkney
Aberdeenshire
Fifeshire
Perthshire
Aberdeenshire
Do.
Ayrshire
Forfarshire
Midlothian
Aberdeenshire
Kincardineshire
Stirlingshire
Lanarkshire
Forfarshire
Clackmannanshire
A'
Balmbreich Castle,
Argyll's Lodging,
Newark Castle, .
Culross Palace, .
Drum Castle,
Traquair House, .
Drumlanrig Castle,
Caroline Park,
Balmacraig House,
Ruthven Castle, .
V. Development
Aberdour Castle,
Castle Stewart, .
Craigston Castle,
Aldie Castle,
Carnock House, .
Gardyne Castle, .
Megginch Castle,
Farnell Castle,
Midhope House, .
Philorth Castle, .
Keith House,
West Coates House.
Cardarroch Castle,
Houston House, .
Jerviswood Castle,
Duntarvie House,
Fernielee Castle,
Wintoun House, .
Moray House,
Pitreavie House, .
Preston House, .
Fountainhall,
Craighall,
Drum House,
naissance.
Fifeshire
Stirlingshire
Renfrewshire
Perthshire
Aberdeenshire
Peeblesshire
Dumfriesshire
Midlothian
Aberdeenshire
Inverness-shire
into House and Mansion.
Fifeshire
Inverness-shire
Aberdeenshire
Perthshire
Stirlingshire
Forfarshire
Perthshire
Forfarshire
I^inlithgowshire
Aberdeenshire
Haddingtonshire
Edinburgh
D umbartonshire
Linlithgowshire
Lanarkshire
Linlithgowshire
Selkirkshire
Haddingtonshire
Edinburgh
Fifeshire
Haddingtonshire
Do.
Fifeshire
Midlothian
The THIRD VOLUME contains
Illustrations and Descriptions of the following Castles.—
Mingarry
Duart
KismuU
Elian Tirrim
Castle Swin
Simple Keeps.
Borve
Breacacha, Coll
Castle Coeffin
Ardtornish
Aros
Kildonan, Arran
Simple Keeps.
Castle Stalcaire
Kinlochaline
Castle Mearnaig
Castle Maoil
Craignish
Little Cumbrae
Fairlie
Law
Skelmorlie
Barr Castle
Carrick
Kaimes
Giffen
Hunterston
Saddell
Sorn
Barr
Mauchline
Penkill
Ailsa-Craig
Simple Keeps.
IVesi and South- IVc
District.
Busbie
Clonbeith
Hessilhead
Newmilns
Newark
Greenan
Crawfurdland
Crosraguel
Kilchenzie
Knockdolian
Craig Caffie
South District.
Hills
Isle
Fourmerkland
Lag
Bonshaw
Robgill
Wardhouse
Thirlstane
Gamescleuch
Dryhope
Blackhouse
Kirkhope
Oakwood
Goldielands
Barns
Castlehill
Posso
Wrae
Horsburgh
Nether Horsburgh
Hyrendean
Hutcheonfield
Minto
Timpendean
Corbett
Cowdenknowes
Corsbie
Cranshaws
Gamelshiel
FIRST PERIOD— 1200-1300.
Skipness , Dunskalch
Achanduin Ardchonnel
Dunvegan Urquhart
Ellandonan Loch Doon
Duntroon ' Achincass (or Auchen)
SECOND PERIOD— 1300-1400.
|_ Plans.
Moy, Lochbuy
Closeburn
Cassillis
Balthayock
Drumin
Old Man of Wick
Braal
THIRD
Carleton
Lochnaw
Rusco
Hollows
Bemersyde
Billi castle
Cockburnspath
Fast Castle
Lennox
Blackness
Craiglockhart
Kinneil
Mains
Cathcart
Bardowie
Covington
Lochore
Bruce's Castle
Arnot's Tower
Balmuto
Pitcruivie
Cessford
Dalhousie
Ravenscraig
Portincross
PERIOD— 1400-1542.
Guthrie
Old Slanes
Boddam
Ackergill
Dirlot
Castle Varrich
1_ Plans.
Lethington
Merchiston
Hatlon House
Bridge Castle
Lordscairnie
Stanely
Inverquharity
Brodick
Thomaston
Denmiln
Courtyard Plans.
Glengarnock
Craigie
FOURTH PERIOD— 1542-1700.
Central District.
Carberry
Cramond
Lamington
Stonebyres
Castle Cary
Crossbasket and Calder-
wood
Kilmahew
Banachra
Darleith
Rossdhu
Killundine
Shuna
East and North
Districts.
Monlmail
Seafield
Pitteadie
Garden
Bandon
Meggernie
Drumlochy
Garth
Easter Clune
Colquhonny
Invermark
Fairburn
Castle Craig
L Plana.
West District.
Bedlay
Monkland House
Auchenvole
Jerviston
Garrion Tower
Haggs
Greenock Mansion
Old Bishopton
1 Loch Ranza
I Corsehill
Stair
Auchinleck
Home Castle
Moulin
Bruce's Castle
Kincardine
King Edward
Fragmentary
Remains.
Duchal
Ballumbie
Tinnies
Ardrossan
Ardstinchar
Dunglass
Mugdock
Dalzell
Boghall
Innerwick
St Andrews
Balfour
Bucholie
Findlater
Special Plans.
Dunure
Dalquharran
Mochrum
Littledean
Nunraw
Newbattle
Castle Lachlan
Maybole
Baltersan
Pinwherry
South-West District.
Galdenoch
Dunskey
Stranraer
Park
Sorbie
Carsleuth
Barholni
Earlston
Barscobe
South-East District.
Gogar
Inch
Bavelaw
Colinton
Honhard
Herbertshire
Newbyres
Greenknowe
Evelaw
Hillslap
Colmslie
Langshaw
Buckholm
Frenchland
Drumelzier
Cardrona
Hayston House
East and North-East
District.
Rossend
Anstruther Manse
Pitairthie
Queen Mary's, St
Andrews
Fernie
Creich
Cleish
Pitfirrane
Blairlogie
Duchray
Balmanno
Newton, Doune
Abeiuchil
Finlarig
Achallader
Comrie
Balhousie
Pitheavlis
Cluny
Lethendy
Bannatyne
Flemington
Finhaven
Forter
Ballinshoe
Kelly
Leith Hall
Balfluig
Westhall
Tillycairn
Esslemont
Pittullie
Fordyce
Findochty
Boharm
Elchies, Easter
Do. Wester
Castle Grant
Aslisk
North-West and North
District.
Dundarave
Barcaldine
Invergarry
Redcastle
Castle Leod
Brims
Downreay
Ardvreck
Edderchalder
The FOURTH VOLUME, NOW IN PREPARATION,
Will contain Illustrations and Descriptions of the following Buildings : —
FOURTH PERIOD— 1542-1700.
Z Plans.
Craigcrook
Ravelston
Riccarton
Kipps
Dargavel
Kelburn
Kilmartin
Balloch
Edinample
Castle Menzies
Glendevon
Dairsie
Glasclune
Hatton _
Cortachie
Collision
Vayne
Arnage
Asloon
Pitcaple
Keith Hall
Ballindalloch
Brodie
E Plans.
Wallyford
Baberton
Wedderlie
Linnhouse
Cowan's Hospital
Corsindae
Careston
Balnakiel
T Plans.
Grangepans
Old Leckie
Illiston
Lauriston
Hallyards
Tullibole
Queen Mary's, Jedburgh
Blackball
Brounstoun, Girvan
Crosbie
Monk Castle
Airdrie
Barns of Crail
Knockdavie
Pitkerio
Kilmaichlie
Kinkell
Courtyard Plans.
Holyrood
Heriot's Hospital
Glasgow College
Redhouse
Brunstane
Hawthornden
Brunston
Monkton House
Saltcoats
Seton Castle
Garmylton
Elibank
Hatton Hall
Branxholm
Whitbank
Tor wood lee
Penshiel
Duntreath
Crawford
Ranforlie
Toward
Seagate, Irvine
Blair
Cessnock
Ardmillan
Kenmure
Dowhill
Newark, Fife
Dudhope
Powrie
Murroes
Logie
Methven
Murthly
Ardblair
Talla
Hallhead
Cullen House
Pitsligo
Knockinnan
Berridale
Forse
Thurso
Dunrobin
Duntulm
Exceptional Plans.
Melgund
Carnassery
Thirlstane
Castle Kennedy
Inchcolm
Nisbet
Woolmet
North Berwick
Later forms of Plans.
Aiket
Sundrum
Bargany
Brisbane House
Carslogie
Dunbeath
Tongue
Helmsdale
Saugbton Mill
Halkerston Lodge
Inveresk Lodge
Altered and Fragment-
ary Examples.
Barnbougle
Bins
Calder House
Kirkhill
Woodhouselee
Craigentinny
Dalkeith
Herdmanston
Auldhame
Edrington
Bassendean
Berwick
Blanerne
Lochwood
Pollock Castle
Gartshore
Waygateshaw
Gargunnock
Touch
Inch, Galbraith
Eilean Mohr
Fraoch
Fionchairn
Hallyards, Fife
Lundin
Ardross
Aithernie
Mountquharnie
Auchterhouse
Pitcullo
Craig, Montrose
Hallgreen
Lauriston
Inglismaldie
Aboyne
Meldrum
Castle Newe
Monymusk
Dunnideer
Frendraught
Shivas
Ellon
Oliphant, or Milton
Pitfichie
Kininvie
Uttershill
HOUSES IN TOWNS.
Edinburgh and Leith, a
number of houses in
Restalrig
Prestonpans
Haddington
Lasswade
Bo'ness
Glasgow
Port Glasgow
Paisley
Rothesay
Dunfermline
Culross
Inverkeithing
Burntisland
Kirkcaldy
Dysart
Anstruther
Pittenweem
Ehe
Cupar
St Andrews
Dundee
Montrose
Aberdeen
Fraserburgh
Elgin
Kirkwall
Lerwick
TOLBOOTHS.
Edinburgh— Canongate
Musselburgh
Dunbar
Glasgow
Hamilton
Renfrew
Dumfries
Sanquhar
May bole
Culross
Kinghorn
Dysart
Crail
Forres
Elgin
Tain
Lerwick
CHURCHES.
Stirling, Greyfriars
Dysart
Pittenweem
Anstruther
Crail
Dairsie
Cupar
Glasgow
Dunlop
Fenwick
Kilbirnie
Glencorse
Prestonpans
Pencaitland
TuUibardine
Turriff
MONUMENTS.
Largs
Haddington
Dunbar
Crail
CASTLES OMITTED IN
PREVIOUS VOLUMES.
Simple Keeps.
Whitslade
Mains Castle, Kilmaro-
nock
Plans.
Southsyde
Ford
Cockburn
Balenon
Myreton
Crichton House
East Cairns
Auchenbowie
Otterston
Kirkton, Carluke
And probably others.
The Work will conclude with Illustrations and Descriptions of a large series of
THE PICTURESQUE SUN-DIALS OF SCOTLAND.
One Volume, 8vo, 21s., with nearly 300 Illustrations.
THE ARCHITECTURE OF
PROVENCE
AND
THE RIVIERA
BY
DAVID MACGIBBON
AUTHOR OF "the CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND'
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EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
The Architecture of
Provence and the Riviera.
BY DAVID MACGIBBON.
Illustrated with nearly 300 Illustrations.
One Volume ^vo, 21s.
"MrMacgibbon begins with a map of the country of which he proposes
to treat, and three short introductory chapters, chiefly historical. Next he
describes the remains of classical, and then, at greater length, those of mediaeval
architecture, the last chapter occupying nearly three-quarters of the book . . .
which is a welcome addition to the librarj', as well as a valuable companion
to the guide-book." — Athenceum.
" We can imagine no more fascinating book for the lover of early mediaeval
art than this handsome and beautifully illustrated volume." — Spectator.
" Mr Macgibbon gives a very able sketch of the development of the
architecture of the district, from the Byzantine to the mediaeval styles, and
especially of the invention of the pointed arch ... a real artistic power of
generalisation, combined with that technical knowledge which gives accuracy
to the details, and consequently a practical value to the drawing, and makes
it something more than a merely pretty sketch. . . . Mr Macgibbon's book
is one of real merit, both for its text and its abundant illustrations." —
Saturday Review.
"An mvaluable companion for visitors to the vSouth of France and the
Riviera, and will afford information concerning an important phase of archi-
tecture. " — Architect.
"We can promise a treat to any one who wisely elects to accompany so
interesting and instructive a guide."- — Building JVews.
"Sufficiently technical to be of value to the student of architectural art,
but it is written in a manner to make it acceptable to all who take an interest
in the historical development of architecture. . . . The descriptions of the
various buildings referred to are distinctly popular in stjde, and one of the
most valuable parts of the work are the illustrations, which occur in almost
every page of the text." — Scotsman.
"With both pen and pencil Mr Macgibbon introduces us delightfully to a
new country." — Scots Observer.
"Leaves nothing to be desired but j)ersonal inspection." — Glasgoio Herald.
" We must express our cordial thanks to Mr Macgibbon for so complete,
so comprehensive, and so delightful an account of the architecture of a district
which abounds in material of the utmost interest to the artist, the archffiologist,
and the student of history. Such a book as this — the work of an author who
combines many qualifications for the task — should be the constant guide and
companion of all cultivated and intelligent visitors to Provence and the
Riviera." — John Bull.
EDINBURGH : DAVID DOUGLAS, CASTLE STREET.
One Volume ^vo, fully Ilhostrated, 12s.
SCOTLAND
IN
EARLY CHRISTIAN TIMES
THE RHIND LECTURES IN ARCHEOLOGY— iSyg.
By JOSEPH ANDERSON, LL.D.
KEEPER OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE ANTIQUARIES OF SCOTLAND
IN THE BURYING-GROUND, EILEAN NA NAOIMH
Contents. — Celtic Churches — Monasteries — Hermitages — Round Towers ■
Illuminated Macuscripts-i-Bells — Crosiers — Reliquaries, etc.
EDINBUEGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
One Vohime 8vo, fully Ilhistr cited, 1 2s.
SCOTLAND
IN
EARLY CHRISTIAN TIMES
(SECOND SEEIES)
THE RHIND LECTURES IN ARCHEOLOGY FOR 1880
By JOSEPH ANDERSON, LL.D.
KEEPER OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE ANTIQUARIES OF SCOTLAND
Contents. — Celtic Medal-Work and Sculptured Monuments, their Art and
Symbolism — Inscribed Monuments in Runics and Oghams — Bilingual Inscriptions,
etc.
EDINBUKGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
One Volume ^vo, fully Illustrated, 12s.
SCOTLAND
IN
PAGAN TIMES
^be 3von age
THE RHIND LECTURES IN ARCHEOLOGY FOR 1 88 1
By JOSEPH ANDERSON, LL.D.
KEEPER OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE ANTIQUARIES OF SCOTLAND
Contents. — T/ie Iron Age. — Viking Bin-ials and Hoards of Silver and Ornaments
— Arms, Dress, etc., of the Viking Time— Celtic Art of the Pagan Period — Decorated
Mirrors — Enamelled Armlets — Architecture and Contents of the Brochs — Lake-
Dwellings — Earth Houses, etc.
EDINBUKGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
One Volume, ^vo, fully Illustrated, 12s.
SCOTLAND
IN
PAGAN TIMES
^be Bronse anb Stone Bcjcs
THE RHIND LECTURES IN ARCHEOLOGY FOR 1 88 2
By JOSEPH ANDERSON, LL.D.
KEEPER OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE
ANTIQUARIES OF SCOTLAND
Contents of Vol. II.
The Bronze and Stone Ages. — Cairn Burial of the Bronze Age and Cremation
Cemeteries — Urns of Bronze Age Types— Stone Circles — Stone Settings — Gold
Ornaments — Implements and Weapons of Bronze— Cairn Burial of the Stone Age —
Chambered Cairns — Urns of Stone Age Types — Implements and ^\'eapons of Stone.
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
One Volume Qvo, fully Illustrated, 15s.
THE
PAST IN THE PRESENT
WHAT IS CIVILISATION?
By sir ARTHUR MITCHELL, M.D., LL.D.
Contents.
I. The Spindle and Whorl.
II. Craggans and Querns, etc.
III. Beehive Houses, etc.
IV. Cave Life.
V. Stone, Bronze, and Iron Ages.
VI. Superstitions.
EDINBUEGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
William F. Skene.
Celtic Scotland. A History of Ancient Alban. By
William F. Skene, D.C.L., LL.U., Historiographer - Royal for Scotland.
3 vols, demy 8vo, with Maps, 45s.
Vol. I. HISTORY AND ETHNOLOGY. 15s.
Vol. II. CHURCH AND CULTURE. 15s.
Vol. III. LAND AND PEOPLE. 15s.
" Forty years ago Mr Skene published a small historical work on the Scottish
Highlands which has ever since been appealed to as an authority, but which has long
been out of print. The promise of this youthful effort is amply fulfilled in the three
weighty volumes of his maturer years. As a work of historical research it ought, in
our opinion, to take a very high rank." — Times.
E. W. Robertson.
Scotland under her Early Kings. A History of the
Kingdom to the close of the Thirteenth Century. By E. William Robertson'.
2 vols, demy 8vo, cloth, 36s.
Bistorical Essays, in connection with the Land and the
Church, etc. By E. William Robertson, Author of "Scotland under her
Early Kings." 1 vol. demy 8vo, 10s. 6d.
Lord Cockburn.
Circuit Journeys. By the late Lord Cockburn, one of the
Judges of the Court of Session. Second Edition, 1 vol. crown 8vo, 6s.
"One of the best books of reminiscences that have appeared." — Morning Post.
"The attraction of this book is due to the charm of the style, the cleverness
with which characters are graphically sketched in a few words, and the impressions
of Scotch life from 1837 to 1854 given by a Judge making his Circuit with most of
his family ' in and about ' his carriage. Loz'd Cockburn had a real love of Nature,
and all the time he could spare from dealing with criminals he spent in exploring the
lovely country through which he was fortunate enough to travel. The book there-
fore combines records of vile or insane deeds, and the curious idiosyncrasies of their
perpetrators, with the most charming and even poetical description of scenery." —
Murray's Magazine.
' ' Delightful alike for its pleasant landscapes ; its sound criticisms on men, law,
and books ; for its sharp things said in a good-natured way." — Academy.
"Valuable for their topographical descriptions ; and they form an indirect con-
tribution to the social history of Scotland." — Scotsman.
"A record of trials and travels, kept with praiseworthy punctuality from the
autumn of 1837 to the spruig of 1854, ought to be, and really is, worth reading." —
Saturday Review.
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS.
0716 Volume, Small Uo, 21s.
LINDORES ABBEY
AND
THE BURGH OF NEWBURGH
%\m pistorg m)i %\mk
BY
ALEXANDER LAING, LL.D.
F.S.A. Scot.
"This is a charming volume in every respect."— J^o^es and Qmrics.
" The prominent characteristics of the work are its exhaustiveness and the thorouglily philosophic
spirit iu which it is written."— ScotsmaM..
EDINBUEGH : DAYID DOUGLAS
ICELANDIC SAGAS, Translated by Sir GEORGE DASENT
Two Volumes, Demy 8vo, with Maps arid Plans, 28 s.
THE NJALA SAGA
BURNT NJAL
FROM THE ICELANDIC OF THE NJAL'S SAGA
SIR GEORGE WEBBE DASENT, D.C.L.
(!lra]gst££l
Small 4 to, ivith Illustrations, 7s. Qd.
THE GISLI SAGA
GISLI THE OUTLAW
FROM THE ICELANDIC
SIR GEORGE WEBBE DASENT, D.C.L.
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
Demy 4to, Illustrated, 42s. and 84s.
THE
HISTORY OF LIDDESDALE
ESKDALE, EWESDALE, WAUCHOPEDALE
AND THE
DEBATEABLE LAND
iatt i. from the ^todftlt Centwr^ to 1530
ROBERT BRUCE ARMSTRONG
CRUKILTON CASTLE
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
One Volume ^vo, Illustrated, 7s. 6f?.
SCOTLAND
AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS
BY THE
DUKE OF ARGYLL
ROB ROY S HOUSE, GLENSHIRA
A HISTOEY OF EACES, OF MILITAEY EVENTS
AND OF THE EISE OF COMMEECE
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
T'ioo Volumes 4:to, 21s.
ARCHJ]OLOGICAL ESSAYS
BY THE LATE
SIE JAMES Y. SIMPSON, Bart.
EDITED BY THE LATE
JOHN STUART, LL.D.
AUTHOR OF THE "SCULPTURED STONES OF SCOTLAND '
ANCIENT ORATORY IN THE ISLAND OF INCHCOLM
1. Archseology.
2. Inchcolm,
3. TheCatStane.
4. The Magical Charm-Stones.
5. Pyramid of Gizeh.
Contents.
6. Leprosy and Leper Hospitals.
7. Greek Medical Vases.
8. Was the Roman Army provided
with Medical Oificers ?
9. Roman Medicine Stamps, etc. , etc.
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
Two Volumes Demy ^vo, 19s. Qd.
SOCIAL LIFE
IN FORMER DAYS
CHIEFLY IN THE PROVINCE OF MORAY
Illustrated bti fetters m\h Jfamib JJjipcre
By E. DUNBAR DUNBAR
LATE CAPTAIN 2IST FUSILIERS
THUNDERTON HOUSE.
EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS
Andrew Jervise.
Epitaphs and Inscriptions from Burial-Grounds and Old
Buildings in the North-East of Scotland. By the late Andeew Jervise, F.S. A.
Scot. With a Memoir of the Author. Vol II. Cloth, small 4to, 32s.
Roxburghe Edition, 423.
The History and Traditions of the Land of the Lindsays in
Angus and Mearns. By the late Andrew Jervise, F.S. A. Scot. New Edition,
Edited and Revised by the Rev. James Gammack, M.A. Demy 8vo, 14s.
Large Paper, demy 4to, 42s.
Memorials of Angus and the Mearns: an Account, Historical,
Antiquarian, and Traditionary, of the Castles and Towns visited by Edward I.,
and of the Barons, Clergy, and others who swore Fealty to England in 1291-6.
By the late Andrew Jervise, F.S. A. Scot. Rewritten and corrected by the
Rev. James Gammack, M.A. Illustrated with Etchings by W. Hole, R.S.A.
2 vols, demy 8vo, 28s. Large Paper, 2 vols, demy 4to, 63s.
Bishop Forbes.
Kalendars of Scottish Saints. With Personal Notices of
those of Alba, etc. By Alexander Penrose Forbes, D.C.L., Bishop of
Brechin. 4to, price £3, 3s. A few copies for sale on large paper, £5, 15s. 6d.
" A truly valuable contribution to the archseology of Scotland." — Guardian.
Thomas S. Muir.
Ecclesiological Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland,
with other Papers relating to Ecclesiological Remains on the Scottish Mainland
and Islands. By Thomas S. Muir, Author of "Characteristics of Church
Architecture," etc. Demy 8vo, with numerous Illustrations, 21s.
Sir Samuel Ferguson.
Ogham Inscriptions in Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. By
the late Sir Samuel Ferguson, President of the Royal Irish Academy, Deputy
Keeper of the Public Records of Ireland, LL.D., Queen's Counsel, etc. (Being
the Rhind Lectures in Archeology for 1884.) 1 vol. demy Svo, 12s.
Miss Maolagan.
The Hill Forts, Stone Circles, and other Structural Remains
of Ancient Scotland. By C. Maclagan, Lady Associate of the Society of
Antiquaries of Scotland. With Plans and Illustrations. Folio, 31s. 6d.
" We need not enlarge on the few inconsequential speculations which rigid
archaeologists may find in the present volume. We desire rather to commend it to
their careful study, fully assured that not only they, but also the general reader, will
be edified by its perusal." — Scotsman.
Prof. Baldwin Brown.
From Schola to Cathedral. A Study of Early Christian
Architecture in its relation to the life of the Church. By G. Baldwin Brown,
Professor of Fine Art in the University of Edinburgh. Demy Svo, Illustrated,
7s. 6d.
The book treats of the beginnings of Christian Architecture, from the point
of view of recent discoveries and theories, with a special reference to the out-
ward resemblance of early Christian communities to other religious associations
of the time.
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