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¥■

GENERAL COLLECTION

OF THB

W-

Vi''

BEST AND MOST INTERESTING

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS

IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD;

MANY OF WHICH ARE NOW FIRST TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH.

DIGESTED ON A NEW PLAN.

BY JOHN PINKERTON,

AUTHOR OF MODERN GEOGRAPHY, ftc. ke. «

ILLUSTRATED WITH !»LATES.

VOLUME THE THIRD.

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LONDON:

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AND CAOELL AMD DAVIES, IN THE STRAND.

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GENERAL COLLECTION

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.

A TOUR IN SCOTLAND, 1769.

BY THOMAS PENNANT, ESQ.

DEDICATION,
TO SIR &0OBR MOSTYN, BART. OF MOSTYK* FLINTSHIRB. .

Dear Sir,

A GENTLEMAN well known to the political world in the beginning of the pnfent
century made the tour of Europe, and before he reached Abbeville difcorered
that in order to fee a country to bed advantage it was infinitely preferable to travel by
day than by night.

I cannot help making this applicable to myfelf, who, after publifliing three volumes
of the Zoology of Great Britain, found out that to be able to fpeak with more preci-
fion of the fubjcQs I treated of, it was far more prudent to vifit the whole than part
of my country : fbruck therefore with the reflection of having never feen Scotland, I
inftantly ordered my baggage to be got ready, and in a reafonable time found myfelf
on the banks of the Tweed.

As foon as I communicated to you my refolution, with your accuftomed friend0)ip
you wilhed to hear from me : I could give but a partial performance of my promife,
the attention of a traveller being fo much taken up as to leave very little room for epif<
tolary duties ; and I flatter myfelf you will And this tardy execution of my engage-
ment more fatisfa£tory than the hafly accounts I could fend you on my road. But this
is far from being the fole motive of this addrefs.

I have irrefiflible inducements of public and of a private nature : to you I owe a
moft free enjoyment of the little territories Providence had beftowed on me ; for by
a liberal and equal ceflTion of fields, and meads and woods, you connefted all the di-
vided parts, and gave a full fcope to all my improvements. Every view I take from

VOL. III. B my

.^.

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

my window reminds me of my debt, and forbids my filence, caufing the plcafing glow of
gratitude to diffufe itfclf over the whole frame, indcad of forcing up the mibittering figh
of 0 Ji angultis ille ! Now every fccnc I enjoy receives new charms, for I mingle with tne
vifibie beauties, the more pleafini; idea of owing them to you, the worthy neighbour
and firm friend, who are happy in the calm and domeflic paths of life with abilities
fupciior to ollentation, and gortdtiors content with its own reward : with a found judg-
ment and hoiieft heart you worthily dii'charge the fenatorial truft rcpnfed in you, whofe
unprejudiced vole aids to ftill the nKulncrsof the people, or aims to check the prefump-
tion of the miniller. My happiu'.Is in being from your earlieft life your neighbour,
makes me confident in my obfervation ; your increafing and difcerning band of friends
difcovcrs and confirms the iuflicc of it : may the rcsfons that attract and bind us to
yuu ever remain, is the molt grateful wi&ithat can be thought of, by,

Dear Sir, &c.
, THOMAS PENNANT.

Downing, October 20th, 1771.

'I.

? I

ON Monday the 26th of June, take my departure from Chefter, a city without
parallel for the fmgular (Irudure of the four principal ftreets, which are as if exca-
vated out of the earth, and funk many feet beneath the furface ; the carriages drive far
beneath the level of the kitchens, on a line with ranges of (hops, over which on each
fide of the flreets palTcngcrs walk from end to end, in galleries open in front, fecure
from wet or heat. The back courts of all thefe houfes are level with the ground, but
to go into any of thefc four ftreets it is neceflary to defcend a flight of feveral fteps.

The Cathedral is an ancient ftrufture, very ragged on the outHde, from the nature
of the red friable ftone * with which it is built : the tabernacle work in the choir is very
neat } but the beauty and elegant fimplicity of a very antique gothic chapter-houfe, is
what merits a vifit from every traveller.

The Hypocauft near the Feathers Inn, is one of the remains of the Romansf, it
being well known that this place was a principal ftation. Among many antiquities
found here, none is more fmgular than the rudo fculpture of the Dea Armigera Mi-
nerva, with her bird and her altar, on the face of a rock in a fmall field near the
Welch end of the bridge.

The caftle is a decaymg pile. The walls of the city, the only complete fpecimens
of ancient fortiBcations, are kept in excellent order, being the principal walk of the
inhabitants : the views from the feveral parts are very fine ; the mountains of Flint-
Ihire, the hills of Broxton, and the infulated rock of Beefton, form the ruder part of
the fcenery ; a rich flat forms the fofter view, and the profpe£t up the river towards
Boughton recalls in fome degree the idea of the Thames and Richmond hill.

Pafled through Tarvin, a imall village j in the church-yard is an epitaph in memory
of Mr. John Thomafen, an excellent penman, but particularly famous for his cxa£t and
elegant imitation of the Greek chai-after.

Del^mere, which Leland calls a faire and large foreft, with plenty of redde deere
and falow, is now a black and dreary wafte ; it feeds a few rabbets, and a few bUck
Terns J fkim over the fplaflics that water forae part of it.

Saxum arenarium friabile rubrum. Da CoJIa, FoJJiU. I. 119.
f Tliii city was the Deva and Devana of Antonint, and the itatioD of the Legio victfiaia viArix.

t Ur. Zooi. II. No. 256.

A few

'■■^..flll''

PINMANT S TOUR m SCOTLAKD. J

A few miles from this heath lies Northwich, a finall town, long famous for its rock,
fait, and brine pits. Some years ago I vifited one of the mines ; the ftratum of fait lies
about forty yards deep ; that which I faw was holowed into the form of a temp fc. I
defcended through a dome, and found the roof fupported by rows of pillars, about two
yards thick, and feveral in height ; the whole was illuminated with numbers of candles,
and made a mod magnificent and glittering appearance. Above the fait is a bed of wHitifli
clay *, ufed in making the Liverpool earthen-ware ; and in the fame place is alfo dug a
good deal of the gypfum, or plailter ftone. The foflil fait is generally yellow, and
lemi-pcllucid, fometimes debafed with a dull greenifli earth, and is often found, but in
imall quantities, quite clear and colourlefs.

The road from this place to Macclesfield is through a flat, rich, but unpleafant coun-
try. That town is in a very flourifhing Rate ; is poflefTed of a great manufadure of mo.
hair and twift buttons ; has between twenty and thirty filk mills, and a very confider-
able copper fmelting houfe, and brafs work.

Here lived in great hofpitality, at his manor-houfef, Henry StaiTord, Duke of Buck-
ingham, a mod powerful peer, the fad inflrument of the ambition of Richard III. He
was at once rewarded by that monarch \ with a grant of fifty cables and manors ;
but ftruck with remorfe at being accefTary to fo many crimes, fell from his allegiance,
and by a jult retribution, fuffered on a fcaffold by the mere fiat of his unfeeling
mafter.

In the church is the fepulchral chapel, and the magnificent monuments of the family
-of the Savages. In this part of the church had been a chauntry of fecular priefts,
founded about 1508 by Thomas Savage, archbifhop of York |{, who^ire£ted that his
heart fhould be depofited here. On a brafs plate on the wall is this comfortable ad*
vertifement of the price of remiffion of fins in the other life ; it was to be wifhed that
the expence of obtaining fo extenfive a charter from his holinefs in this world had like*
wife been added. ..,..,

Thefe are the words :

*' The Pdon for faying of 5 Pater noft and 5 aves and a creed is 26 thoufand yeres
and 26 dayes of pardon."

In the chapel belonging to the Leghs of Lime is another flngular infcription and its
hifloj-y:

^ • ' Ilerelyeth thebodyof Perkin a Lagh

That for King Richard the death di'' die,
V , , • Betrayed for righi , loefi.

And tlie bones of Sir Peers his lonnt
That with King Henrie the fift did woni.4

in Paris. --

* This Ptfrkin ferved king Edward the third and the black Prince his fonnc in all
their warrcs in France and was at the battel of (Ircffie and had Lyme given him for
that fervice ; and after their deathes ferved king Richard the fecond, and left him not
in his troubles, but was taken with him, and beheaded at Chefter by king Henrie the
t'ourthe. And ihc fayd Sir Peers his lonne ferved king Henrie and was fluine at the
battel of Agencourt.

• Argilla ciriila-cinerea. Pa ColU, Foflilf. I. 48.
\ Diigdak's UaroiiJge. I. i6d.

t King's Vale Koyal 86.

I. Tanner, Notitia Moiialt. 1744.

66.

few

B 2

4 pbmnant's tour in icotlamd.

* In their memoric Sir Peter Legh of Lyme knight defcended from them finding
the fayd ould verfes written upon a ftone in this Chappcl did recdifie this place Jn'
Dni 1 6,0.'

After leaving this town, the country altnod inflantly changes and becomes very
mountainous and barren, at lea(l on the furface ; but the bowels compcnfate for the
cxtemal ilerility, by yielding fufliciently quantity of coal for the ufe of the neighbour-
ing parts of Chefliire, and for the burning of lime : valt quantity is made near Buxton,
and being carried to all parts for the purpofes of agriculture, is become a confiderable
article of commerce.

The celebrated warm bath of Buxton * is feated in a bottom, amidd thefe hills, in a
mod cheerlefs fpot, and would be little frequented, did not Hygeia often refide here,
and difpenfe to her votaries the chief bleflings of life, eafe, and Health. With joy and
gratitude I this moment rcfled on the efficacious qualities of the waters ; 1 recoUefk
vith rapture the return of fpirits, the flight of pain, and re-animation of my long, long-
crippled rheumatic limbs. But how unfortunate is it, that what Providence defigned
for the general good, fhould be rendered only a partial one, and denied to all, except
the opulent ; or I may fay to the (comparatively) few that can get admittance into the
houfe where thefe waters are imprifoned ? There are other fprings (Camden fays nine)
very near that in the Hall, and in all probability of equal virtue. I was informed that
the late Duke of Devonfliire, not long before his death, had ordered fome of thefe to
be inclofed and formed into baths. It is to be hoped that his fuccefTor will not fail
adopting fo ufeful and humane a plan ; that he will fom\ it on the mofk enlarged
fyflem, that they may open not folely to thofe whom mifufed wealth hath rendered in-
valids, but to the poor cripple, whom honell labour hath made a burthen to himfelf and
his country ; and to the foldier and failur, who by hard fervice have loft the ufe of
thofe very limbs which once were a£Uve in our defence. The honour refulting from
fuch a foundation would be as great, as the fatisfadion arifmg from a confcioumefs of
fo benevolent a work, would be unfpeakable. The charms of diflipation would then
lofe their force ; and every human luxury would appear to him inflpid, who had it in
his power thus to lay open thefe fountains of health, and to be able to exult in fuclr pa-
thetic and comfortable drains as thefe : ** When the ear heard me, then it blefled me ;
and when the eye faw me it gave witnefs to me ;

" Becaufe I had delivered the poor that cried, and the fatherlefs, and him that had
none to help him.

** The bleflling of him that was ready to perilh came upon me, and I caufed the wi«
dow's heart to fing for joy.

" I was eyes to the blind, and feet was I to the lame."

After leaving Buxton, pafled through Middleton dale, a deep narrow chafm between
two va(l cliffs, which extend on each fide near a mile in length : this road is very fmgu-
. lar, but the rocks are in general too naked to be beautiful. At the end is the fmall
village of Stoney Middleton ; here the profpedt opens, and at Barfley-bridge exhibits a
pretty view of a fmall but fertile vale, watered by t ie Derwent, and terminated by Chatf-
worth and its plantations. Arrived and lay at

Cheflerfield, an ugly town. In this place is a great manufacture of worfled ftockings,
and another of a brown earthenware, much of which is fent into Holland, the country
which, within Icfs than half a century ago, fupplied not only thefe kingdoms but half of

• The Roman*, who were remarkably fond of warm baths, did not overlook thefe agreeable waters : they
had a bith, inch>fed with n brick wall, adjacent to the prefcnt St. Anne's well, which Dr. i>hort, in his
Kflay on Mineral Waters, fays was razed in 1709.

8 Europe

rBNHANT'a TOUX IN SCOTLAND. J

Europe with that commodity The clay is found near the town, ovet the bafs or • chertv
flratum, above the coal. The fteeple of Chederfield church is a fpire covered witn
lead, but by a violent wind (Iran^^ely bent, in which (late it remains. In the church are
Ibme fine monuments of the Foljainbes of Walton.

At this place may be faid to have expired the war of the barons in the reign of
Henry III. After the battle of Evcfham, Robert Earl Ferrers, and Baldwin Wake
Baron of Chefterfield, attemptud once more to make head againd the royal power.
They rciidcvoufed here ; but were fuddenly furprifed by the royalifts ; Ferrers was
taken, and Wake fled. The eflate of the firft was forfeited : the fortunes of the lad
were reftorcd, after certain mulfls. By the marriage of a filler of one of his dcfcen-
dants with Edmund of Woodllock, this place and Bakewell became the property of his
daughter, the fair maid of Kent, widow of the Black Prince, and were part of her join-
ture on his decoafe.

June 27. On the road fide, about three miles from the town, are feveral pits of iron-
done aboDt nine or ten feet deep. The dratum lies above the coal, and is two feet thick.
I was informed that the adventurers pay ten pounds per annum to the lord of the foil for
liberty of raifing it ; tlfat the labourers have fix fliillings per load for getting it : each
load is about twenty drikes or buftieis, which yields a ton of metal. Coal in thefe parts
is very cheap, a ton and a half being fold for five Ihillings.

Changed horfes at Workfop and Tuxford. In the (outh aifle of the church at Tux-
ford, beneath a flowery arch, is a very rude relief of St. Lawrence placed on the grid-
iron. By him is a fellow with a bellows blowing the fire, and the executioner going to
turn him. Thi zealous Fox in his Martyrology has this very thought, and makes the
martyr fay in the midd of his fufferings, " This fide is now roaded ; turn me, O tyrant
great !" Croffed the Trent at Dunham-ferry, where it is broad, but fliallow : the
Ipring tides flow here, and rife about two feet, but the common tides never reach this
place. Dunham had been a manor belonging to Edward t the Confeflbr, and yielded
him thirty pounds, and fix fedlaries of honey, valuable when mead was the delicious
beverage of the times. From hence pafs along the Fofs-Dyke, or the canal opened by
Henry I. J, to form a communication between the Treat and the Witham. It was
opened § in the year 1121, and extends from Lincoln to Torkefey ; its length is eleven
miles three quarters, the breadth between dike and dike at the top is about fixty feet,
at bottom twenty-two : veflels from fifteen to thirty-five tons navigate this canal, and
by its means a confiderable trade in coals, timber, corn, and wool, is carried on. In
former times, the perfons who had landed property on either fide were obliged tofcower.
it whenever it was choaked up, and accordingly we find prefentments were made by
juries in feveral fucceeding reigns for that purpofe. Reach

Lincoln, an ancient lut ill-built city, much fallen away from its former extent. It
lies partly on a plain, partly on a very Iteep hill, on whofe fummit are the cathedral and
the ruins of the cadle. The firlt is a vad pile of Gothic architeflure ; within of
matchlefs beauty and magnificence : the ornaments are exceflively rich, and in the fined
Gothic tade ; the pillars light, the centre lofty, and of a furprifing grandeur. The
windows at the N. and S. ends are very ancient, but very elegant ; one reprefents a leaf

• Or flinty. t Thoroton't Nottinghamfh. }88. j: Dugdale on embanking, 167.

^ I make ufe of this word, as Dr. btukcley conjeflures this canal to have been originally a Roman work j
and that another of the lame kind (called the Carf-dike) communicated with it, by means of the Witham,
which began a little below Waflienbro', three mile* from Lincoln, and wa> continued through the fens as
far aa Peterborough. Stukcley'i Caraulius, lap & feq. B. 2. Ejufd. Account of Richard of Cirea>
ceiler, 50.

with

6 rEMNANT*S TOUIl IK ICOTLAND*

with it! fibrN, the other connda of a number of fmall circles. There are two other
ancient windows un each fiJc the great iflc : the others, as I recollect, arc moilorn,
Tliis church was, till of late years, much out of repair, but has juit been reilurcd in a
manner that docs credit to the chapter.

The prolpcd from this eminence is very extenfive, but very barren of objeftn ; a
vad flat as far as the eye can reach, confiding of plains not the mod fertile*, or uf i'cns *
and moors : the lad arc far lefs cxtcnlive than they were, many being drained, and will
foon become the bed land in the country ; but much dill rcmams to be done. 'I'ho fons
near Revediy Abby f, eight miles boyond Horncadle, are of vad extent ; but fervc for
little other purpofe than the rearing great numbers of geefe, which are the wealth of the
fen men.

During the breeding feafon, thefe birds are lodged in the fame houfes with the inha-
bitants, and even in their very bed-chambers : in every apartment are three rows of
coarfe wicker pens placed one above another ; each bird has its feparatc lodge divided
from the other, which it keeps podcdion of during the time of fitting. A perfon, called
a Gozzard ^, attends the flock, and twice a day lirives the whole to water ; then brings
them back to their habitations, helping thofe that live in the upper dories to their nclts,
without ever mifplacing a Hngle bird.

The geefe are plucked Ave times in the year} the fird plucking is at Lady-Day, fur
feathers and quills, and the fame is renewed, for feathers only, four times more between
that and Michaelmas. The old geefe fubmit quietly to the operation, but the young
ones are very noify and unruly. I once faw this performed, and obferved that goflinga
of fix weeks old were not fpared i for their tails were plucked, as I was told, to hubi-
tuate them early to what they were to come to. If the feal'on proves cold, numbers of
geefe die by this barbarous cudom §.

Vad numbers are driven annually to London, to fupply the markets ; among them,
all the fuperannuated geefe and ganders (called here Cagmags) which fervc to fatigue
the Jaws of the good citizens, who are fo unfortunate as to meet with them.

1 he fen called the Wed Fen, is the place where the ruff's and reeves refort to in the

Sreated numbers H ; and tnauy other forts of water-fowl, which »lo not require the
icltcr of reeds or ruflies, migrate here to breed ; for this fen is very bare, having been
imperfedly drained by narrow canals, which interfed it for great numbers ofmiles.
Thefe the inhabitants navigate in mod diminutive fliallow boits } tlicy are, in fad, the
roads of the country.

The Ead Fen is quite in a date of nature, and gives a fpecimen of the country before
the introduction of drainage: it is a vad tract of morafs, intermixed with numbers of
lakes from half a mile to two or three miles in circuit, communicating with each other
by narrow reedy d raits : they are very (hallow, none are above four or iive feet in
depth ; but abound with fifh, fuch as pike, perch, rulT, bream, tench, rud, dace, roach,
burbot, dicklebacks, and eels.

• The fcni, nikcd as tliry now appear, were oncf wi'H wondrd. Oaks Kavc hccn fmwu] Ijurinl in them,
which wrrc futcrn yards lung, and live ill ciciimfcrencei tir-trc(« from thirty to tliirty-five yaidt, a ltd a
foot or eij{htten inches fqiiiirc. Tlicfc trees had not the mark of the ax, but appctred .u it liiirn; down Ly
fire applied tothrir lower parts. Acorns and t'inali nuts havcalfo been found in griat quantities in the lame
places Piigdalc on embaiikinpr, i^^i.

f Rcvefby Abhy was founded 1142 by VV. de Komara, Earl of Lincoln, for Ciftrrtian mnnks, and
granted by H. VIll. an. 30. to Ch. Duke of Suffolk. The founder turning monk was buried here,
'i'anner, 26?. J i e. Goofe herd.

4 It was. ilfo pra£\ifed by the ancients. CiindiJorum alierum veiligal in f Umi, VfHynlur quHujdam loc'u
I'll anno. Plinii, lib. x. c. 22. || Bi. Zuol. II. Nu. i<;t.

VIKNAMT'i TOVR IH ICOTLANn. 7

It is obfervable, thsit oncf In fevcn or dght years, Immenfe (hoals of (licklebtcks ap-
pear In the Wetland below Spacing, and attempt coining up the river in form of a vad
column. They an? Tuppnfed to be the colle^ed multitudcii wafhcd out of the fens by
the floods of fcvcral ycarfs, and carried into fome deep hole ; when overcharged with
numbers, they are obliged to attempt a change of place. They move up the river in
fuch quantities as to enable a man, who was employed in taking them, to earn, for a
confidorahio time, four /hillings a day, by felling them at a halfpenny per bufliel. They
were ufed to manure land, and attempts have been made to get oil from them. The
fen is covered with rocds, the harveft of the neighbouring inhabitants, who mow them
annually; for thoy prove a much better thatch than llraw, and not only cottages, but
many very good houfcs arc covered with them. Stares, which during winter refort in
myriads to roofl in the reeds, arc very deftruflive, by breaking them down, by the vail
numbers that perch on them. The people are therefore very diligent in their attempts
to drive them away, and arc at great expence in powder to free thcmfclves of thefe trou-
blefome guolls. I have feen a (lock of reeds harveftcd and (lacked worth two or thre6
hundred pounds, which was the property of a fmgle farmer.

The birds which ihhabit the diflferent fens arc very numerous : I never met with a
finer field for the zooligid to range in. Befides the common wild-duck, of wliich
an account is given in another place *, wild geefe, garganics, pochards, fhovelers, and
teals breed here. I have fecn in the ea(l fen a fmall (lock of the tufted ducks ; but they
feemed to make it only a baiting.place. The pewit gulls and blacV terns abound ; the
lad in vad fiocks almod deafen one with their clamors : ii few oi ihe great terns, or
tickets, are feen among them. I faw fevcral of the great creded srebes on the Ead
Fen, called there gaunts, and met with one of their floating neds with eggs in it.
The It-lTcr creded grebe, the black and dulky grebe, and the little grebe, are alfo in-
habitants of the fens ; together with coots, water-hens, fpotted water-hens, water-rails,
rulTs, redlhanks, lapwings or wipes, red breaded godwits and whimbrels. The godwits
breed near Walhenbrough ; the whimbrels only appear about a fortnight in May near
Spalding, and then quit the country. Oppofite to Foflfdyke Wa(h, during fummer, are
great numbers of avofettas, called there yelpers, from their cry. They hover over the
Iportfman's head like the lapwing, and (ly with their necks and legs extended.

Knots are taken in nets along the fhores near Fo(rdyke in great numbers during
winter ; but they difappear in the fpring.

The fhort.eared owl, Br. Zool. I. No. 66. vifits the neighbourhood of Wafhen--
brough along with the woodcocks, and probably performs its migrations with thofe
birds, for it is obferved to quit the country at the fame time : I have alfo received
fpecimens of them from the Dani(h dominions, one of the retreats of the woodcock.
This owl is not obferved in this country to perch on trees, but conceals itfcif in long
old grafs ; if didurbed, takes a (hort night, lights again, and keeps daring about,
during which time its horns are very vifible. The farmers are fond of the arrival of
thefe birds, as they clear the (ields of mice, and will even fly in fearch of prey during
day, provided the weather is cloudy and midy.

But the greated curiofity in thefe parts is the vad heronry at Crefll hall, fix miles
from Spalding. The herons refort there in February to repair their neds, fettle there
in the fpring to breed, and quit the place during winter. They are numerous as rooks,
and their neds fo crouded together, that myfelf, and the company that was with me,

• B». Zoo). II. No. 179. In general, to avniJ repetition, the reader is referred to the Britilh Zoology,
for a more particular account of animaU roentioacil in this Tour.

counted

PBKKANT's tour in eCOTLAND."

counted not lefs than eighty in one fpreading oak. I here had an opportunity of de-
tefting my own miftake, and that of other ornithologifts, in making two fpecies of
herons ( for I found that the creded heron was only the male of the other : it made a
moll beautiful appearance with its fnowy neck and long creil ftreaming with the wind.
The family who owned this place was of the fame name with thefe birds, which feems
to be the principal inducement for preferving them.
In the time of Michael Drayton,

Here ftalked the (lately crine, as though he tnarch'd in war.

But at prefent this bird is quite unknown in our ifland i but every other fpecies
enumerated by that obfervant poet dill are found in this fenny tra£l;, or its neigh*
bourhood.

June 28. Vifited Spalding, a place very much refemblmg, in form, neatnefs, and
fituation, a Dutch town : the river Welland paffes through one of the ftj-eets, a canal
is cut through another, and trees are planted on each fide. The church is large, and
the fleeple a fpire. The churches in general, throughout this low trad, are very
handfotrte ; all are built of (lone, which mud have been brought from places very re-
mote, along temporary canals ; for, in many indances, the quarries lie at lead twenty
miles didant. But the edifices were built m zealous ages, when the benedidions or
maledidtions of the church made the people conquer every difficulty that might obdrud
thefe pious foundations. The abby 01 Crowland, feated in the midll of a fhaking fen *,
is a curious monument of the infuperable zeal of the times it was ereded in ; as the
beautiful tower of Bodon church, vifible from all parts, is a magnificent fpecimen of a
fme gothic tade.

June 29. PafTed near the fite of Swinefhead abby, of which there are not the
lead remains. In the walls of a iarm-houfe built out of the ruins, you are (hewn the
figure of a knight Templar, and told it was the monk who poifoned King John ; a fa£t
denied by our bed hidorians. This abby was founded in 1 134, by Robert de Grefld,
and filled with Cidertian monks.

Returned through Lincoln ; went out of town under the Newport-gate, a curious
Roman work ; palled over part of the heath ; changed horfes at Spittle, and at Glan-
ford bridge ; dined at the ferry-houfe on the banks of the Humber ; and, after a
pafl'agc of about five miles, with a brifk gale, landed at Hull, and reached that night
Burton-Condable, the feat of Mr. Condable, in that part of Yorkfliire called Hoi-
dernefs ; a rich flat country, but excellent for producing large cattle, and a ^od
breed of horfes, whofe prices are near doubled fince the French have grown fo fond
of the Englifh kind.

Made an excurfion to Hornfea, a fmall town on the coad, remarkable only for its
mere, a piece of water about two miles long, and one broad, famous for its pike and
eels ; it is divided from the fea by a very narrow bank, fo is in much danger of being
fome time or other lod.

The cliffs on the coad of Holdemefs are high, and compofed of clay which falls down
in valt fragments. Quantity of amber is wafhed out of it by the tides, which the
Country people pick up and fell: it is found fometimes in large mafTes, but I never

• Thin monaftery was founded by Ethelbald, king of Mcicia, A.D.716. The ground being too
marfliy to admit a weighty building of ftoDCi he made a foundation by driving into the ground vail piles of
oak ; and caukd more compaii earth t« be brought in boats nine milei off to lay oa tkcnH; and f jrm a
niore found foundatioD.

faw

ill;

pennant's tour 1M SCOTLAND.

faw any fo pure and clear as that from the Bahic. It is ufually of a pale yellow colour
within, and prettily clouded ; the outfidc covered with a thin coarfc coat.

July 2. After riding fonie miles over a flat grazing country, pafl'cd throu};h the
village of Skipfey, once under the proteflinn of a caltle founded by Diugon or Dru-
gan, a valiant Flandrian, who came over at the time of the conquefl:. The Conqueror
pave him ::i marriage one of iiis near relations ; and as a portion madj him lord (;f

iiolderncfs. Drugon by fome unlucky accident killed his fpoufe ; but, having his wits
about I'.im, hallened to the King, and informing his Majcdy, tl.'ar his lady and he had
agrcatdclire to villt their native country, rcqueded a fuin of money for that purpofo:
the Conqueror immediately fuppiicd the wants ol Drugon ; who had fcaicJy em-
barked, wlien advic? was brought from Skiplcy of the death of the lady : purfuit v.as
inflantly made but in vain; the artful Flandrian evaded all attempts to bring him to
juftite *.

Near this village is a confiderable camp; but I pafl'ed too haflily to determine of
what nation.

A few miles farther is Burlington Quay, a fmall town clofe to the fea. There is a
defign of building a pier, for the protection of Ihipping ; at prefent there is only a large
wooden quay, which projeds into the water, from which the place takes its name. In
February 1642, Henrietta, the fpirited confort of Charles I. landed here with arms and
ammunition from Holland. Batten, a parliament admiral, had in vain tried to inter-
cept Htr Majefty ; but coming foon after into the bay, brutally fired for two hours at
the houfe where flie lay, forcing her to take flielter, half-drefled, in the fields. Nor
parliament nnr admiral were afliamed of this unmanly deed ; but their hiitorian, the
moderate Whitelock, fecms to bludi for both, by omitting all mention of tiie affair.
From hence is a fine view of the white cliff's of Flamborough-head, which extends far to
the eall, and forms one fide of the Gabrantvicorum finus portucfus of Ptolemy, a name
derived from the britilh CJyfr, on account of the number of goats found there, accord-
ing to the conjecture of Camden. Perhaps, Eu^i^n©-', the epithet which Ptolemy
adds to the bay, is flill preferved in Sureby, or Sure-bay f, a villagvi a little north of
Burlington Quay. That the Romans had a naval (lation here;, is more rtrongly con-
firmed by the road called the Roman-ridge, and the dikes which go by Malton to York,
are vifible in many places, and ended here J.

A mile from hence is the town of Burlington. The body of tl e church is large,
but the (teeple, by fome accident, has been deftroyed ; near it is a large gateway, with
a noble Gothic arch, the remains of a priory of black canons, founded by Walter de
Gant, in the beginning of the reign of Henry I. In that of Richard II. in the year
13SS, the canons got liberty of inclofing their houfe with (Irong walls, to defend them
from the attacks of pirates, I cannot help mentioning a proof of the maimers of the
clergy in early times, by relating a complaint of the prior to Innocent 111. againlt the
archdeacon ot Richmond, who calling at his houfe wi '\ nhicty-feven horl'es, twcnty-one
dogs, and tlnvc hawks, devoured in one hour, more proviiioii than would have lafted
the monks a long time. The grievance was redreifcd. ^\'i!l!am Wodo, the lad prior,
was executed for rebellion in i 537. At that time, according to Speed, the revenue was
682I. 13s. Qd. .iccording to Dugdale, 54;'l. ^s. id.

This coalt of the kingdom is very ur.favourable to avcs, for, except fome woods I:i
the neighbourhood of Burton-Conltable, there is a vail nakednela from the Iluiubcr,

* MS. at Piirton-Conllablf. f Ciciul^n, 11 R.);.

f, Diake's Iliil. York, 34.. Coiifult alio hi;, in.ip ot llic Rgniiiii roail? !ii Yorkdiiiv.
VOL. III. c • as

' li

10 pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

as fai* as the extremity of Caithnefs, with a very few exceptions, which Ihall be noted iu
tlicir proper places.

July 3. Went to Flamborough head. This was the Fleamburg of the Saxons, pof-
fibly from the lights made on it to direft the landing of Ida, \\ho, in 547, joined his
countrymen fn thefe parts with a large reinforcement from Germany ; and founded
the kingdom of Northumberland. In the time of Edward the Confelfor, Flamborough
was one of the manors of Harold*, Earl of the weft Saxons, afterwards King of Enghmd.
On his death, the Conqueror gave it to Hugh Lupus, who, in perpetual alms, be-
llowed it on the monaftery of Whitby j.

The town is on the north fide ; confifts of about one hundred and fifty fmall houfes,
entirely inhabited by filhermen, few of whom, as is faid, die in their beds, but meet
their rate in the element they are fo converfant in. Put myfelf under the direSIon of
William Camidge, Cicerone of the place, who conduced me to a little creek at that
time covered with fifli, a fleet of cobles having jufl put in. Went in one of thole little
boats -to view the Head, coafting it for upwards of two miles. The cliffs are of a tre-
mendous height, and amazing grandeur -, beneath are feveral vaft caverns, fome clofed
at the end, others are pervious, formed with a natural arch, giving a romantic paffage
to the boat, different from that we entered. In fome places the rocks are infulated,
are of a pyramidal figure, and foar up to a vaft height : the bafes of moft are folid,
but in fome pierced through, and arched ; the colour of all thefe rocks is white, from
the dung of the innumerable flocks of migratory birds, which quite cover the face of
them, filling every little projeftion, every hole that will give them leave to reft ; multi-
tudes were fwimming about, others fwarmed in the air, and almoft dunned us with the
variety of their croaks and fcreams. I obferved among them corvorants, fhags in fmall
flocks, guillemots, a few black guillemots very fliy and wild, auks, puffins, kittiwakes t,
and herring gulls. Landed at the fame place, but before our return to Flamborough,
vifited Robin Leith's hole, a vaft cavern, to which there is a narrow paffage from the
land fide ; it fuddenly rifes to a great height ; the roof is finely arched, and the bot-
tom is for a confiderable way, formed in broad fteps, refembling a great but eafy ftair-
cafc ; the mouth opens to the fea, and gives light to the whole.

Lay at Hunmandby, a fmall village above Filey Bay, round which are fome planta-
tions that thrive tolerably well, and ought to be an encouragement to gentjemen to at-
tempt covering thefe naked hills.

Filey-brig is a ledge of rocks running far into the fea, and often fatal to fliipping.
The bay is Tandy, and affords vaft quantities of fine fifli, fuch as turbot, foles, &c. which
during fummer approach the fliore, and are eafily taken in a common feinc or dragging-
nct.

July 4. Set out for Scarborough ; paffed near the fite of Flixton, a hofpitat
founded in the time of Athelftan, to give (helter to travellers from the wolves, that they
Ihould not be devoured by them § ; fo that in thofe days this bare trad muft have
been covered with wood, for thofe ravenous animals ever inhabit large forefts. Thefe
hofpitia are not unfret^aent among the Alps ; are either appendages to religious houfes,
or Supported by voluntary fubfcriptions. On the fpot where Flixton flood is a farm-
houfe, to this day called the Spital-houfe. Reach

Scarborough, a town once ftrongly guarded by a caftle, built on the top of a vaft
cliff, by William le Gros, Earl of Yorkffjire, Albemarle, and Hordernefs, in the rcit'-n

• Di'gdale, Baron. I. 20.

t Called here Tctrds. 13r, Zool. No

•♦ DngJalc, Monaft. I. 7^.

2J0. j Camden, Brit. II. 9ca.

fENMANt's Touk m seotLANd.

a vaft
rciga

of Sc?^' " After ihe refumption of this, as well as other crown lands alienated by
thai p: -, Henry K. rebuilt the fortrefs, then grown ruinous, with greater ftrength
and mi^iiificence, inclofing a vaft area. From this time it was confidered as the key
of this important county, and none but perfons of the firft rank were entrufted with the
cuftody. Its confequence may be evinced from this ctrcumftance ; that when King
John had granted to his fubjefts the magna charta, and placed the government in the
hands of twenty- five barons, the governor of this caftle was to be approved by them,
and to receive tiis orders from them.

In 13 1 2, Edward II. in his retreat out of the north before his rebellious nobility,
left here, as in a place of the greated fecurity, his minion Peers Gavefton. It was in-
ftantly befieged, and taken by Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke ; and the infolent
favourite, in a fliort time after, fell a vidim to the refcntment of the Earl of Warwick.

In the reign of Richard II. in 1378, its trade received great injury from a combined
fleet of Scots, French, and Spaniards, under the conduft of one Mercer, who entered
the harbour, and carried off feveral fliips. The infult was inftantly revenged by Phil-
pot, a gallant alderman of London, who fitted out a fleet at his own charge, purfued
the enemy, and not only retook their prizes, but made himfelf mafter of the whole
fleet.

Richard III. added fl;rength to the place by building a bulwark near the fliore at
the fouth-eaft end of the town ; and he alfo began to wall in the town *.

In the religious rebellion, ftyled the pilgrimage of grace, in the time of Henry VIII.
the leader, Robert Aflc, in 1536, layed clofe liege to the caftle; but was obliged to
defift, after its governor Sir Ralph Ewers and his garrifon were reduced for twenty
days to live on bread and water t«

In 1 557, Thomas Stafford, fecond fon of Lord Stafford, with only thirty-two perfons«
came from France, and furprized the fortrefs. It appears that they were encouraged
to the attempt by Henry II. It was, probably, only the prelude to an invafion.
Staflford publifhed a manifefto againft the Queen ; and ftyled himfelf Protedior of
England : but the Earl of Weftmoreland, colle£ting fome forces, (in two days) put
an end to his dignity ^.

At the beginning of the civil wars, the parliament committed this caftle to the care
of Sir Hugh Cholmley, who foon after revolted to the King. He maintained the place
with great fpirit for two years. In 1 644, he was vigoroufly befieged by Sir John
Meldrum, from February till the middle of May, when Sir John, in attempting to repel
a fally, received a mortal wound. Sir Hugh kept poffeflion of it till July 1645, when
he furrendered it on terms to Sir Matthew Boynton §. It is at prefent a large ruin.
In the caftle yard are barracks for about a hundred and fifty men, at prefent untenanted
by foldiery.

In this town were three religious houfes and a hofpital. The grey friers, or Fran-
cifcans, began a houfe here about 1240, which was enlarged by Edward II. and Roger
Molendarius. The black friers, or Dominicans, had another before the 13th of
Edward I. whether founded by Sir Adam Say, or Henry Earl of Northumberland, is
doubtful. The white friers, or Carmelites, were eftabliflied here in 13 19, by Ed-
ward II. and the Ciftertians had in the reign of King John a cell in this town de-
pendent on a houfe in France, to which was given the church of St. Mary, and
certain lands, till the fuppreffion of the alien priories in the reign of Edward IV.

• Leltnd's Itln. 1.62.
§ Whitelock, 83. 133.

t Herbert's Henry VIII.
146, 147. 163.

c a

I Rapin, II. 46.

Leland

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

Leland* dcrcribcs tlils church as very magnificent ; with two towers at the wcftemi,
and a prciit one in the centre. It was probably demoliflied in the civil wars, when Sir
John Meldrum forced the royalills in.o the calUe ; for it lay too near that fortrofs to
be fuflered to remain entire, to give llieltcr to the enemy. The preiont church (the
only one in the town) role f.oni the ruins of the former.

The town is largo, built ill form of a crefcent, on thj fides of a fleep hill; from
whence the name, which (hews it to have oxilled in Saxon times, Soareburg, or the
Ikirg on a fear or clilF. Bencatli the fouth fide of the callle, is a large (lone pier
(another is now building) which flielters the fliipping belonging to the place. It is
abfolutely without trade, yet has above ton thoufand inhabitants, mollly failors, and owns
above three hundr(?d fail of Ihips, which are hired out for freight. In time of war
government fcldom has his than a hundred in pay.

In 1359, the fliipping of this place was very inconfiderable ; for to tlie naval arma-
ment of that year made by Kdward III. Scarborough contributed only one Ihip and fix-
teen mariners ; when the following northern ports font the numbers horo recited :

Newcaftle

Barton on the H umber

17 fh
3

ips, 314
30

Grimfljy
Bofton
Hull .

1 1

171
361

382!

The range of buildings on the clifF commands a fine view of the caftlc, town, and
of innumerable fliipping that are perpetually palfing backward and forward on their
voyagcf. The fpawj lies at the foot of one the hills, S. of the town ; this and the
great conveniency of fea-bathing, occalion a v aft refort of company during fumnner ;
it is at that time a place of great gaiety, for with numbers health is the pretence, but
dilTipation the end.

The fliore is a fine hard fand, and during low water is the place where the company
amufe themfelves with riding. 'J'his is alfo the filh market ; for every day tlie cobles,
or little fifhing boats, are drawn on fliore here, and lie in rows, often quite loaden
•with variety of the bed fifli. It isfuperfluous to repeat what has been before mentioned
of the methods of filhing, being amply delcribed, Vol. III. of the Britilh Zoology ; yet
it will be far from impertinent to point out the peculiar advantages of thefe feas, and the
additional benefit this town might experience, by the augmentation of its filheries.
For this account, and for numberlefs civilities I think nivfelf much indebted to Mr.
Tiavis, furgeon, who communicated to me the following remarks:

" Scarborough is fituated at the bottom of a bay, formed by Whitby rock on the
North, and Flaniborough Head on the South : the t /wn is feated directly oppolite to
the centre of the W. end of the Dogger bank ; which end (according to Hammond's
chart of the Nortii Sea) llis S. and by W., and N. and by E. ; but by a Hue drawn
from Tinmcuth caflle, would lead about N. W. and S. E. 1 hough the Dogger
bank is therefore but twelve leagues from Fianiborough Head, yet it is llxteen and a
half from Scarborough, twenty-three from Whitby, and thirty-fiv from Tinmouth
caftle. The N. fide of the bank (trctches off E. N. E. bjtwcen thirty and forty
leagues, until it almolt joins to the Long-Bank, and Juit's Ritl". ,

• Itin. I 61. -IMS. Hill, of Hull, in Lord Shell)unie'.s!;i,iary.

\ The waters nrc impregnated with a piirjjalivc f'.ilt (gl.iu'jci 'b), a finall q uint.'ty t.f v-,->mnion f.iU, ami nf
Orel. Time arc ti«() Weill, lilt fartlicil fron t lic town is inort- puiifativ,., a.iU its tallc nuic bitur ; the
cdKr ib mure chi<lybc'ite, and iio uile more brilk and puiiL;;ciit D. II.

« It

,'■•'«

-M

IL:

pennant's tour, in SCOTLAND.

the

" It

" It is to be remarked, that the fiftiermen feldom find any cod, ling, or other
round fiflnipon the Dogger bank itftlf, but upon the floping edges and hollows con-
ti-iuous to it. The top of the bank is covered with a barren fhifting fand, which af-
f'cmls them nofubfiftence ; and the wa,tcr on it, from its flia!lo*nels, is contiiiually (o
iij'itated and broken, as to allow them no time to reft. I'he flat fifh do not fufllr the
falne inconvenience there ; for when diflurbeJ by the motion of the fea, they (liclter
themfclves in the fand, and find variety of fuitable food. It is true, the Dutch fiili
upon the Dogger bank ; but it is alfo true they t.'.ke httle except foles, f];ates, thorn-
backs, plaife, &c. It is in the hollows between the Dogger and the Well-bank, that
the cod are taken which fupply London market.

" The fliore, except at the entrance of Scarborough pier, and fome few other
places, is conipofcd of covered rocks, which abound with lobflers and crabs, and
many other fliell filh, (no oyRers;) thence, after a fpace covered with clean fand, ex-
tending in different places from one to five or fix miles, the bottom, all the way to
tlie cd^e of the Dogger bank, is a fear ; in fome places very rugged, rocky, and ca-
vernous ; in others Imooth, and overgrown with a variety of. fubmarine plai.ts, moffes,
coralHnes, &c. * Some parts again are fpread with fand and fliells ; others, for
many leagues in length, wiih foft nmd and ooz, furnilhed by the difcharge of the Tees
and Humber.

" Upon an attentive review of the whole, it may be clearly inferred, that the fiiore
.ilong"*the coail on the one hand, with the edges of the Dogger bank on the other, like
the fides of a decoy, give a direftion towards our filhing grounds to the mighty ftioals of
cod, and other fifh, which are well known to come annually from the Northern Ocean
into our feas ; and fecondly, that the great variety of fifhing grounds near Scarbo-
rough, extending upwards of fixteen leagues from the fliore, afford fecure retreats and
j)lentyof proper food for all the various kinds of fifh, and alfo fuitable places for each
kind to depofit their fpawn in.

" The fifliery at Scarborough only employs 105 men, and brings in about 5250!. per
annum, a trifle to what it would produce, was there a canal from thence to Leeds and
Manchefter; it is probable it would then produce above ten times that fum, cmpby
fome thoufands of men, give a comfortable and cheap fubfiflence to our manufaclurers,
keep the markets moderately reafonablc, enable our manufacturing towns to underfell
our rivals, and prevent the hands, as is too often the cafe, raifing infurrc^tions, in
every year of fcarcity, natural or artificial."

In addition to the above I add an extraft of a letter from Mr. Travis, dated Dec. 21,
17,^4, which ilin,^s more light on this interelting fubjeft. The filhery is now on its de-
cline. The profits of fiuuggling having tempted moll of the owners of cobles to quit
their bufinels, the number here is reduced from tliirty-five cobles to feven. At Robin
Hood's bay from forty-five to feventeen, and in the fame proportion along the coaft.
At Scarborough are only lifhermen to the number mentioned ; thofe ferve a regular
apprenticefliip, for it is a particular trade, and the ableft failors will not venture in a
coble in the ilream of the tide, where the beft fifh only are taken.

The clame to the tithe of fifh is a great difcouragement j the prefent worthy owner.
Sir Charles Ilotham Thompfbn, does not demand it, but as the rigiit has been confirmed
by the courts of law, no one dare venture to trufl to what a fucceflbr may do. The
cobles are not owned by the fifhers, but hired from the ale-houfe keepers at one fliil-
ling and fix-pence per week, for the fear of the tithes prevents people of fubftaucc from.

* I met wiili on the fliorcs near Scarborough, fmall fragments ef ihe true red coral.

7 engaging.

fENNAKT's TOU«. IN SCOTLAND.

engaging and fitting out large veffels, with whicli alone a national fifliery can be carried

on.

At prefent the Dutch cngrofsall our lampreys for baits, and once a fortnight a veffcl
fails from the Humber with a carpo to Holland. Thus the Dutch fupply Holland,
Germany, and even London itfelf, with cargoes of excellent fifli. I refer the readers
to my Arclic Zoology, Suppl. p. 20,, or Introdudion, lul. 2d. p. Ixxix. for an account
, of this valuable filhery ; and of a very unjult attempt made by a felfilh few to exclude the
Dutch from fupplying our markets from their own coafts.

On difcourfing with fome very intelligent fdhermen, I was informed of a very fmgu-
lar phacnomenon thev annually obferve about the fpawning of fifli •. At the diliance of
four or five leagues from fliore, during the month of July and Auguft, it is remarked,
that at the depth of fix or feven fathom from the furface, the water appears to be (iitu-
rated with a thick jelly, filled with the ova of fifli, which reaches ten or twelve fiithoms
deeper : this is known by its adhering to the ropes the cobles anchor with, when they are
filhing J for they find the firft fix or feven fathom of rope free from fpawn, the next ten
or twelve covered with flimy matter, the remainder again free to the bottom. They fup-
pofc this gelatinous ftuft' to fupply the new-born fry with food, and that it is alfo a pro-
tedion to the fpawn, as being difagreeable to the larger fifh to fwim in.

There is great variety of fifli brought on (hore. Befides thofe 4efcribed as Britifli
fifl), were two fpecies of rays: the whip-ray has alfo been taken here, and another
fpecies of weever ; but thefe are fubjeds, more proper to be referred to a fauna, than
an itinerary, for a minute defcription.

The following is a proof of the vafl: quantity of fiih that may be taken on this coad.
On April 11, 1776, were taken in one tide, by one coble, 37 cods, 36 lings, 45
holibuts, 3 turbots, befides a large quantity of ikates and fmall fifli } which were fold
for feven pounds.

July I oth left Scarborough, and pafl'ed over large moors to Robin Hood's bay. On
my road, obferved the vad mountains of alum ftone, from which that fait is thus ex-
traded : It is fird calcined in great heaps, which continue burning by its own phIogi«
fton, after being well fct on fire by coals, for fix, ten, or fourteen months, according to
the fize of the heap, fome being equal to a fmall hill. It is then thrown into pits and
fteeped in water, to extrad all the faline particles. The liquor is then run into other
pits, where the vitriolic falts are precipitated by the addition of a folution of the fal foda?,
prepared from kelp ; or by the volatile alkali of dale urine. The fuperflous water
being then evaporated duly by boiling in large furnaces, the liquor is fet to cool ; and
lafily, is poured into large caiks, to cryfiallize.

The alum works in this country are of fome antiquity : they were firft difcovered by
Sir Thomas Chaloner, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who obferving the trees tinged
with an unufual colour, made him fufpicious of its being owing to fome mineral in the
neighbourhood. He found out that the ftrata abounded with an aluminous fait.

At that time the Englifli being ftrangers to the method of managing it, there is a
tradition that Sir Thomas was obliged to feduce fome workmen from the Pope's alum-
works near Rome, then the greateft iu Europe. If one may judge from the curfc
which his holinefs thundered out againft Sir Thomas and the fugitives, he certainly was
not a little enraged ; for he curfed by the very form that Emulphus f has left us, and
not varied a tittle from that mod coroprehenfive of imprecations.

* Mr. On>«ck obfetved the fame in S. Lit. 35136, in hit return from China,
flowering of the water. > Vol. II, yj.
t Vide Tiiftram Shandy,

The feamen call it the

The

■|

i I-

,ti»

PENMANT's tour IH •COtLAND.

On
ex*

The firft pits were near Gifborough, the feat of the Chaloners, who
lerc. notwithftandinc: his holinefs's anathema. The works were (o valu;

ftill flouriOi
there, notwithftanding his holinefs's anathema. The works were fo valuable as to be
deemed a royal mine. Sir Paul Pindar, who rented them, payed annually to the King
12,500!., to the Earl of Mulgrave 1640I., to Sir William Pennyman 600I. ; kept
800 workmen in pay, and fold his alum at a61. per Jon. But this monopoly was de-
ftroyed on the death of Charles I. and the right reftored to the proprietors.

In thefe alum rocks are frequently found cornua ammonis, and other fofTils, lodged in
a ftony nodule. Jet is fometimes met with in thin flat pieces, RXternally of the appear-
ance of wood. According to Solinus, Britain was famous for this foiTil *.

The fands near Robin Hood's village, were covered with fi(h of feveral kinds, and with
people who met the cobles in order to purchafe their cargo: the place feemed as if a
great fifli fair had been held there ; fome were carrying off their bargains, others bufied
in curing the fifh : and a little out at fea was a fleet of cobles and five-men boats, and
others, arriving to difcharge the capture of the preceding tides f. There are 36 of the
firft beloning to this little place. The houTes here make a grotefque appearance, are
fcattered over the face of a fteep cliff in a very ftrange manner, and fill every projefting
ledge, one above another, in the fame manner as thofe of the peafants in the rocky parts
of China. Sand's End, Runwick, and Staithes, three other fifliing towns on this coaft,
are fas I am told) built in the fame manner.

The country through this day's journey was hilly, the coaft high. Reach

Whitby, called by the Saxons, Streanefhalch, or the bay of the light-houfe, a large
town oddly fituated between two hills, with a narrow channel running through the mid-
dle, extending about a mile farther up the vale, where it widens, and forms a bay. The
two parts of ihe town are joined by a good draw-bridge, for the conveniency of letting
the (hipping pafs. From this are often taken the viviparous Blenny, whofe back-bone
is as green as that of the fea needle. The river that forms this harbour is the Eflc, but
its waters are very inconfiderable when the tide is out. Here is a pretty briflt trade in
ihip-building ; but except that, a fmall manufacture of fail-cloth, and the hiring of
fhips, as at Scarborough, like that town, it has fcarce any commerce. It is computed,
there are about 270 fliips belonging to this place. Of late, an attempt has been made
to have a (hare in the Greenland fi(hery ; four (hips were fent out, and had very good
fucccfs. There are very good dry docks towards the end of the harbour j and at the
mouth a mod beautiful pier. At this place is the firft falmon-fiftiery on the coaft

In 1394 prodigious (hoalsof herrings appeared off this port, which occafioned avaft
refort of foreigners, who bought up, cured the fi(h, and exported them to the great
injury of the natives. To prevent which, the King iffued a proclamation, direfted to
the bailiffs of St. Hilda's church, requiring them to put a ftop to thofe praftices J.

On the hill above the S. fide of the town is a fine ruin of St. Hilda's church. The
fite was given to that faint by Ofwy, King of Northumberland, about A. D. 657 ;
poffibly in confequence of a vow he made to found half a dozen monafteries, and make
his daughter a nun, (hould heaven favour his arms. At this place was held, before
King Oiwy, the celebrated controverfy about the proper feafon for keeping of Ea(l .■.
Archbi(hop Colman fupported one opinion from the traditions, which the Britons had
of the example of St. John the Evangelift ; and Wilfrid, on the contrary, drew his ar-

• Gagatea hie pturimus optimufque eft lapis : Ji dfcorem requiras, nigra gemmeus t ft naluram aqua arJct, oho
rejlinguilur ; ft pott/ialem allritu ciife/affus nppllcita ddinet, alque fuccinum. C. xxii.

f From hence tlie filh are carritil in machines to Derby, LitcliBcrld, Biiniingham, and Worceftcr : the
towns which lie beyond the laft arc fii^iplied from the Wefl of England,

X Rymer's Fxdera, VII. 78S.

gumcnts

Pr.NNANT's TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

pfiimonts from the pra^lice of St. Peter, on whom the catholic cliurch was fovmdeil, and
to wliom were committeil the keys of liraven. Olwy ilomi.mli'il of Cohnnn, whether
tliis was true? who r on fc fled it was. " Then," fays IlisMajedy, "I will never con-
lrndi«5l the porter of hea%'en, left I fuflcr by his refenttncnt, when I apply for ad-
Tuiflion *." Si. Hilda founded a convent here for men and women, dedicated it to St.
Peter, and became tiie fird abbcfs f . This ellabliflimcnt was ruined by the excurlions
of the Panes; but after the conqueft, was rebuilt, and fd led with Hencdictines, by
■\Villiam ilc Percy, to whom the lordfliip was given by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chefhr,
nephew to the conqueror. In lefs enlightened times it v.as believed that not a wild
goofe dared to ily over this holy ground, and if it ventured, was fure to fall precipi-
tate, and pcrifh in the attempt.

^Vent about two miles along the fliorc, then turned up into- iho country, a black
and dreaiy moor ; obferved on the right a vaft artificial mouiit, or tumulus, called
Freeburgh Hill.

At the end of this moor, about three miles from Ghborongh, is a beautiful view over
therem;iining part of Yorkfliire, towards Duihara, Hartlepool, and the mouth of the
Tees, which meanders through a very rich tratl. The country inllantly afl'umes a new
face ; the road lies between moft delightful liills, finely wooded, and the little vales
between thtm very fertile: on fome of the hills are the marks of the firfl alum works,
whicli were difcovered by Sir Thomas Chaloner.

Gilhorough, a fmall town, pleafantly fituated in a vale furroundcd at fome diflance
hills, and open on the ead to the fea, which is about five miles diftant. It is certainly a
delightful fpot ; but I cannot fee the reafon why Camden compares it to Puteoli. Here
was once a priory of the canons of the order of St. Aultin, founded by Robert de Brus,
1129, after the dilTolution granted by Edward VI. to the Chaloners: a very beautiful
eaft window of the church is flill remaining. This piiory was alio embattled or fortified
in 1375, by permifhon of Edward III. Its revenue, according to Speed, was 712I. 6s.
6d. ; according to Dugdalc, 628I. 3s. 4d. The town has at prefent a good manufadure
of iail-cloth.

The country continues very fine quite to the banks of the Tees, a confiderablc river,
which divides Yorkfliire from the bifhoprick of Durham. After travelling 109 miles
in a flraicht line through the firfl, enter Durham, crofling the river on a very handfome
bridge ot five arches, the battlements neatly pannelled wiih fione ; and reach

Stockton, lying on the Tees in form of a crefcent : a handfome town ; a corporation
by prefcription, governed by a mayor, recorder, and fix aldermen ; and is one of the
four ward towns of the county. The principal flre.t is remarkably fine, being 165
feet broad ; and feveral kfler Itroets run into it at rjj.;ht angky. In the middle of the
great itreet are neat fliandiles, a town-houfe, and large uireiiihly-room. There
is bcfides a huge fquare, in which is a haiulfome Doric column thirty-three feet high.
About a century ago, according to Andcrfon, it had Icarce a houle that w.\s ni-t made
of cl.'v ;'.nd th Itch ; but is now a flourifliing pl;ic(\ having rofc on the decay of tr;ide
at Y;in'in. I'.s manufacture is a linall one of failcKnli ; and great quantities of corn,
and had (from the mineral pruts of the country) are feut oil' from hence by commillion.
As the river does not admit o( large vefTels as high as the tov.n, thole commodities arc
fent doun to lie fivppcd nbout three miles lower. The port is a uicndnr of that ot
Newcaflle, and has iis cuftoin houfe and proper (fKcers. 'Ihe town lies at the diltancc
of fix miles from the bar ; and the tide flows above eight miles above the bridge.

• Ecdc, riiil. E.-cl. lib. I'ii c. 2j.

f Ofway wai properly the founder.

Stockton

PtNNANT S TOUR iU SCOTLAND.

ration
•f the

'65
of the

'here
high.

niiule
tr.idc
(.ciri),
iiFion.
s arc
lat of
llancc

Stockton was anciently a chapeh-y belonging to Norton, which by length of time be-
came ruinous, and too finall for the incrcafing inhabitants. In 17 10, a new church was
begun by ,'ubfcription ; in 1712, it was confecrateJ by biHiop Crew ; and, in 1713, ths
place, by a£t of parlianient, was made a dlflin^ft parifli from Norton.

In 1 72 1, a charity-fciiool was begun by voluntary fubfcription, which fuccccdcd fo
well as to maintain at prcfont a madcr, millrefs, and forty boys and girls.

On the weft fide of the town ftood the calllc, founded (as fomc fay) by King Steph.en ;
according to others, by John. It is reported to have been a ftrong and elegant build-
ing, having been the fummcr refidcncc of the bifhop of Durham. Tradition fays, that
King John was entertained here by bifhop Poifllcrs ; and at this place figned the charter
(if Newcaftle. Bifliop Farnham died here, in 1257. Billiop Kellow improved and
made great additions to the caftlc ; and litre biflu p Morton took refuge when he fleJ
from the Scots, in the beginning of the troubles of Charles I. It was fold by order of
parliament, in 164-, for 6165I,, demoliflied, and the materials difpofed of : what re-
mained, is at prefent converted into a barn. The demefne lands belong to the bifliop,
and are fet for 600I. a year.

In 1762, an aft palTed for building a bridge acrofs the Tees, to form a communica-
tion with Cleveland, which was finiflied in April 1769. Its breadth is eighteen feet,
that of the middle arch feventy-two, three inches ; the two next fixty ; the two others
forty-four. The expence of building it was eight thoufand pounds.

Tlie falmon fifhery is neglcfted here, for none are taken but what is neceflary to fup-
ply the country. Smelts come up the river in the winter-time.

Norton, ^before mentioned, lies on the way to Durham, at a fmall diftancc from
Stockton. Here had been an ancient collegiate church, founded before the year 1227*,
lor eight prebendaries, or portionifb, in the patronage of the bifhops of Durham. I'he
country from the Tees to Durham is flat, very fertile, and much inclofed. Towards
the weft is a fine view of its highlands. Thefc hills are part of that vaft ridge wiiich
commences in the north, and deeply divide this portion of the kingdom ; and on that
account are called by Camden the Appcnines of England.

The approach to Durham is romantic, through a deep hollow, clothed on each fide
with wood. The city is pretty large, but the buildings old. Part are on a plain, part
on the fide of a hill. The abby, or cathedral, and the caftle, where tlie bifliop lives,
wlien he rcfides here, are on the fummit of a cliff", whofe foot is waflied on two fides by
the river Were. The walks on the oppofite banks are very beautiful, and well kepr.
They are cut through the wood, impend over the river, and receive a venerable im-
provement from the caftle and ancient cathedral, which foar above.

The laft is very old f ; plain without, and fupported within by mafly pillars, dccplv
engraved with lozenge-like figures, and zig-zag furrows : others are plain. The Ikreon
to the choir is wood covered with a coarfe carving. The choir neat, but without or-
nament.

'i lie chapter-houfc fecms very ancient, and is in the form of a theatre. The cloiftci'-^
large and handlome. ^\11 the monuments are defaceil, except that of bifliop IlatlioIJ.
The prcbendal iioufes are very pleafantly fituated, and have a fine view backwards.

There are two handfome bridges over the Were to the walks ; and a third covered
■with houfes, which join the two parts of the town. 'I his river produces falmon, trout,
ro,;eh, dace, minow, loche, bulhead, ilickleback?, lamprey, the lelfer lamprey, cel.s,
iinelf, and famlct. The lait, before they go otl'to fpawii, are obferved to be covered

ckton

Taiir.cr 1 rj.

I Dcg\;ii in IC9J, by bidiop ■Wllli.im i!c Curilcpho.

vol.. III.

vi;Ii

'•.>■" •T"Y*'*'<

pennant's tour in SCOTLANSt

with a white flime : they are called here rack-riders, becaufe they appear in winter, or
bad weather : rack, in the rnfrliHi of Shakefpearc's days, fignifying the driving of the
clouds by tcmpells, a word ilill retained here.

Tliat which ii now a horfe, rvcn wiili a thoiiglit
The lack difliintiR, and makes it iiidilliuift
Ab water is ill water.

Antony and CLiorATiiA, AAI\^

There is no inconfiderable manufaduro.at Durham of flialloons, tammies, flripes,
and callemancocs. 1 had heard on my road many complaints of the ecciofiaftical y;o.
vcrnmont this country is fubjcdl to ; but from the general face of the country, it fcom&
to thrive wonderfully under it.

July 2 1. Saw Coken, the feat of Mr. Car ; a mod romantic fituation, layed out with-
gp.Mt judgnjcnt : the walk;; are very extenliv(>, principally along the fules or at tiie bot-
tom of deep dells, bounded with vaft precipices, finely wooded ; and many parts of the
rocks are planted with vines, which I was told bore vvell, but late. The river Were
winds along the hollows, and forms two very fine reaches at the place where you enter
thefc walks. Its waters are very clear, and its bottom a folid rock. The view towards
the ruins of Finchal-abby is remarkably great ; and the walk beneath the cliff has a mag-
nificent folcmnity, a fit retreat for its monaftic inhabitants. This was once called the
Defert, and was the rude fcene of the aufteritips of St. Godric, who carried them to the
mod fenfelefs extravagance •. A fobe»* mind may even at prefent be affeded with
horror, at the profpeds from the fummits of the cliffs into a darkfome and flupcndous
chafm, rendered ftili more tremendous by the roaring of the waters over its diftant
bottom.

Faffed through Chefter-le-Street, a fmall town, near which is Lumley-caflle, the feat
of the Earl of Scarborough. The traft from Durham to Newcaflle was very beautiful;
the rifings gentle, and prettily wooded, and the views agreeable; that on the borders,
remarkably fine, there being, from an eminence not far from the capital of N -ithum-
berland, an extenfive view of a rich country, watered by the coaly Tyne. Go through
Gatefliead, crofs the bridge, and enter

Newcaflle, a large town, divided from the former by the river, and both fides very
fteep : the lower parts very dirty and difagreeable. The fides of the river arc inha-
bited by keelmen and their families, a mutinous race ; for which reafon this town is
always garrifoned : in the upper parts are feveral handfome well-built ftreets.

The great bufinefs of the place is the coal trade. The collieries lie at diffei'ent dif-
tances, from five to eighteen miles from the river; and the coal is brought down hi-
waggons along rail roads, and difcharged from covered buildings at the edge of the

• St. Godric was born at Walpole, in Norfolk, and being an itinerant merchant, got acquainted with
St. Cuthbert at Fam ifland. He inaJe three pilgrimage* to Jerufaicm ; at length was warned by a vidon
to fettle in the defert of Finchal. He lived an hermitical life thcie during 63 years, and praftifcd unheard-
of aufteriticl : he wore an iron (hirt next his (kin day and night, and wort out three : he mingled afhes with
the flour he made his bread of; and, left it (hould then be too good, kept it three or four mouths btforc he
ventured to eat it.. In winter, as well at fummer, he paflVd whole nights, up to his chin in water, at his de-
votion*. Like St. Antony, he was often hunted by fiends in various fhapes ; fomctlmcs in form of beau-
tiful damfeU, fo was vifited with evil concnpifcence, which he cured by rolling naked among thorns and
briars: his body grew ulcerated; but, t ■ encreafe his pain, he poured fait into the wounds: wrought
many miracles, and died I 170. Britannia facra, 304. About ten years after his, dectafc, a Benedicliac
priory of thirteen monks wai founded therein hii honour, by Hugh Pudfcy, bilbup of Durham.

'1'

water

?ENNAKT S TOUR. IN SCOTLAND.

»9

witcr into the keels or boati that arc to convoy it on fliipboard. Thefc boats are flrong,
clumfy, and round, will carry about 25 tons each ; Ibnietiincs arc navigated with a
fquare fail, but generally are worked with two vift oars. No (hips of large burthen
come up as high as Newcadle, but are obli_i,'ed to lie at Shifkls, a few miles down iIk.'
river, where (tage coaches go thrice every day for the convcnienry of pafll-ngers, 'I'liis
country is molt remarkably populous ; NowcafUe with GateOiead contains near 30,000
inhabitants; and there are at leail 400 fail of fhips belonging to that town and Its port.
The eft'eft of the valt commerce of this place is very apparent for many miles round ;
the country is finely cultivated, and bears a moll thriving and opulent afpeft.

July 13. Left Newcadle ; the country in general flat ; pafled by a large ftone column
with three dials on the capital, with fcveral fcripture texts on the fides, here called Pigg's
Folly, from the founder.

A few miles further is Stannington-bridge, a pleafant village. Morpeth, a fmall town
with a neat townhoufe, and a tower for the beH near it. Some attempt was made a
few years ago to introduce the Manchefter manufafture, but without fuccefs. Camden
informs us,' that the inhabitants reduced their town to alhes, on the approach of King
John, A. D. I a 16, out of^ure hatred to their monarch, in order that he might not find
any (belter there. But the Chronicle of Melros, p. 190, aHigns a more rational caufe,
by faying that the barons of the country deftroyed both their own towns and the ftanding
corn, in order to diftrefs the king then on his march to punifli their revolt.

The caftle was feated on a fmall eminence. The remains are little more than the
gateway tower. This fortrefs was built by William Lord Grayftock, in the year 1358.
It appears to have beSn entire in the days of Leland, and at that time in the • pofleilion
of Lord Dacres *, who derived his right from his marriage with Elizabeth Baronefs of
Grayftock ; and in the time of Queen Elizabeth, was conveyed into the family of the
prefent Earl of Carlifle, by the marriage of a daughter of Thomas Lord Dacres with
Lord William Howard of Naworih f.

Between Morpeth and Fclton, on the right fide of the road, ftands Cockle Tower, an
ancient border-houfe of the larger fize, fortified as the fad neceffity of the times required.
Mr. Grofe tells us, that in the time of Edward I, it belonged to the Bertrams of Mitford,
perfonsof much property in this county.

This place gave birth to William Turner, as Dr. Fuller expreffes it, an excellent
Latinilt, Graccian, orator, and poet ; he might have added polemic divine, champion
and fufforer in the proteftant caufe, phyfician and naturalift. His botanic writings are
among the firft we had, and certainly the beft of them ; and his criticifms on the birds
of Ariftotle and Pliny are very judicious. He was the firft who flung any light onthofe
ifebjeds in our illand ; therefore dames from a naturalift this tribute to his memory J.

Felton, a pleafant village on the Coquet, which, fome few miles lower, difcharges
itfelf into the fea, oppofitc to a fmall ifle of the fame name, remarkable for the multi-
tudes of water-fowl that rcfort there to breed. At Felton, the barons of Northumber-
land did hom-age to Alexander II. King of Scotland, in 1216, in the reign of King
JohnS- Coquet ifland was a place of arms for the royal party in the time of Charles I.,
but was taken by the Scots, in 1643, with much booty of ammunition and cattle.

Near Felton, I had a diftant view of Warkworth caftle, in old times the feat of the
C.laverings, by defcent from Roger Fitz-Richard, to whom it was granted by Henry IT. |1
Mv, Grofe's elegant defign of it makes me regret I did not take a nearer view.

• Leland Itin. vi!, 62.
t Wallls, ii. 299.

water

\. He was bora in tlie reign of Htnry VIII. died ifl 1568.
^ Wallia, ii. 356. H Idem, 351.

D 2

pennant's tour m scc)tland.

: I

At Alnwick, afmnll town, the travclli'i" is difuppointcd with the fitii:\tion of tlie en-
virons ot the caftlo, the rffulcnco of the I'orcios, the ancii'nt I'.arU ot Northuinborlanil.
Ydu look in vain for any marks of the ^^ranileiir ol the fciulal aj^c ; lov trophies won bv
a family eminent in our annaU for military prowels and deeds of chivalry ; tor haMs
Jiung witli helms and hauberks, or with the fpoils of the chai'c ; fdr extenfive foreils
and venerable oaks. You look in vain for the helmet on the lower, the ancient lii^ii d
of hofpitality t<i the traveller, or the };rey-headed porter to condiu'l him to tiio hall A'
entertainment. The niunerous train, whole countenances ^ave welcome to hin» on hi ;
way, are now no more ; and iullead of the dilinterelled uiher of the old tintcs, he is at«
tended by a valet eau;er to receive the fees of admittance.

There is a vail grandeur in the appearance of the outlide of tlie caflle; the towers
nia[;nilicrnt, but injured by the nunibers of rude llafucs crowdeil on the battlements.
The apartments are larj^e, and lately (inilhed in the (Jothic (lyle with a molt incompa-
tible elegance. 'Ihe garden;; are equally inconliitent ; trim to ilie highlit degn-e, and
more adapted to a villa near London, than the ancient feat of a great baron. In a word,
nothing, excepting the numl)ers of unindultrious poor that fwarm al the gate, excites
any one idea of its lormer circumltances.

William 'lyfon, a noble Sason, baron of Alnwick, fell on the fide of Harold at tlit*
battle of llailings. The conqueror bcftowod his daughter anil fortune on Ivo de Veici.
In 1310, a natural foil of one of hi.s delceiulaiits was left under the guardianlhip of
Antony Beke, bifliop of Durham, who betrayed his trull, and fold this barony to Henry
Lord Percy. The caflle underwent two niemor.ible lieges. In ic*;;,by Malcoh.i III.
f'f Scotland, who, with his fun Ldward, lof' their lives before it ; and in 1 174, Wil-
liam 1., after a fruiilcis fiegc, was defeated and taken prifoner itear th.; fame place.

The abby lay a little north of the town : nothing is left but ihe line fqu ire gateway.
It was founileil by ICullace l''it/,.John, in 1 147, for I'remimltratenii m canons *, and at
tile diil'oliition fupported thirteen, whole revenues were about 190I. a year.

A llage further is Bclford, the feat of Abraham Dixon, Klq , a nuKlrii houfe ; the
front has a molt beautiful iimplicity in it : the grou uls iuijiroved as far as the art of
hutbandry can reach ; the plantations large and •',• i.ilhing : a mw and neat town, in-
Itead of the former wretched cottages j and an iiuiulliious race, iullead of an idle poor,
at prefcnt fill the ellate.

On an eminence on the fea-coaft, about four miles from Iklforil, is the very ancient
caRlc of Bamborough, founded by Ida, lirft king of the Northumbrians, A. D. 54vS. It
was called by the Saxons, Bebbanburh I, in honour of liebba, Ida's queen. It was at
fird furrounded with a wooden fence, and afterwards with a wall, h had bi.*en of great
ilrength ; the hill it is founded on is txceflively Iteep on all lides, and acceflibleonly
by flights of Iteps on the fouth-eaft. The ruins are Hill confiderable, but many of them
now fdled with fanti, caught up by the winds which rage here with great vioLiice, and
carried to very diltant places, 'ihe remains of a great hall arc very iiiigular j it had
been warmed by two fire-places of a vail fize, and from the top of ever. ' in '.)W vuii
a flue, like that of a chimney, which reached the fn "mits of the battlen'en . ! .' fe
flues lecm deligned as fo many fupernumerary chimneys, to give vent to . • ; 1 !;. i.at
the immcnfe fires of thole hofpitable times filled the rooms with : halls fiiKuN.), Out filkd
with good cheer, were 111 thole days thought no inconvenience. Thus my brave coun-
tryman Ilowel aj) Rys, when his enemies had fired his houfe about his oarj;, tuKI hia
people to rife and '•.fi.i'd themfelves like men : " For Ihame, for he had knjwiu there
as greatc a fmoake in . >. hall upon a Chrillmas even J."

» Tanner, 9 -<. f Saxo.i Clir, Kj. .\. lllft, Gwcdir fumily, 1 1^.

Batuborougli

l»EKy.\VT'8 TOITR IN SCOTLAND.

iciont
It
as at

gro;it
only

UTU

and

iKul

•uu

• At

nin-
iiis
ficre

Baniboroiigh village U now very inc(infiJi'rabl'\ It once wns a royal hf)rftnc;h, and
font two mcml)L'rs : it wns even honoured wiili ilie nnnu; ot a (hire, uliicii ivc name t«i ;i
larectrad extending Imuhward. It had all'othri'o religious fouiklation'; : » lioult- >} triors
preachers foundeil t)y i T'-nry 111., a «' H of canons regular, of St. AuiUn, and a o-ipital.

'Ihiscadlc, and the maiur belonpin,; to it, was once the properiv ot the Forifcrs ;
but (on tile I'orteitur- of I'huiii Kordcr, LCq. in 1715) purchaled by Lord Cvew,
biftiop of Durham, ai. 1 with other cuuflJerable edatcs, left vc/trd in truftecs, in he.
applied to unconlinid charita!)lo ufes. 'I'hre,. o[ thofe trullces art a majority: on'- of
thorn makes tliis place his relid> nee, and blclles the coaf^ l)y his jud;cious ami liiitnanc
application of the jnvlate's generous bequell. Me has rcpaind and rendered hab "' '
the great Norman Iquare tower : the part r. ferved for lumfelf and family is a lar}>v n, I
r\nd a few fmallcr apartn\ents ; but th'* re(t of tli. Ipacimin edilic is allotted tor pui
poles which make the heart to glow with j'^y when thougl**. of. I'ho upper part is a)\
ample granary, from whence corn is difpeDleil to the poor without didinction, evc n in
the dearell time, at the rate of four fliillings a Imdud ; and the (Jillrelled, for itiany m los
round, often experience the conveniency of this benefaction.

Olher aparuuents are fitted up for tlie reception of fliiinv recked failors; and hr -
ding is provided for thirty, fliouKl fuch a number happen to bo call on Ihoreai he fan
time. A condant patrol'.^ is kept every flormy iiidit along tliis tcmpeduous .:oait fci
above eight miles, the lingth of the manor, by which m -ans n .imlvrs of lives l,av( ^<eiv
prclervcd. Many poor wretches are oft«n found on the fhore ia a date of infenfibility j
but by timely relief are foon brought to themfelves.

It often happens, that fliips ilrike in fuch a manner 0., the rocks as to be capable of
relief, in cafe nund^ers of people could be fuddcniy allem led : for that purpolb a can-
non* is fixed on the top of the tower, which is fired one. , if the accident happens in
fuch a quarter; twice, if in another; and thrice, if in fui a place, l^y thclb fignals
ilie country people are ilirccled to the fpot they are to I ,to; and by this means
frequently profervo not only the crew, but even the velVel ; for maciiiaes of liiVercut
kinds arc always in readincfs to heave fliips out of their perii. us fituation.

In a word, all the fchcmes of this worthy truftee have a huiuane and ufcful tenulenry :
he feems as if foleded from his brethren for the fame purpoK s as Spcnfcr tells us the
Jnd of his fcven beaiifmcn in the houfc of holincfle was.

Tiic firft of tlicm, that cldtll was ami bed,

Of all the html'c had cluirgc and j,'()vcrnin(.iit,

/\8 guivrdian and llcward of tlie nil ;

HiaofTiL-c was to give cnterfaintnicnt

And lodginir mito all that came and went t

Not uniu fuch as could him fcall afjainc.

And di)ul)Iy (iiiite fur liiat he on thcn\ fpent ;

Rnt fiidi as want of haibcnir did (;onlli:iiiic ;
Tholl", for Gol'» lake, his dcwiy wm to entcitaliic f .

Oppofite to Bamhorough lie the Farn illands, which form two rot'pcs of little ilTeS
and rocks to the nundjer of feventccn, but at low water the poii.ts of others appear
above the furface ; they are all didinguifhed by particular names. The noareft ifle xn the
f',ore is that called the Iloulb Ifland, which lies exactly one milo ftxty-cight chains from
tiiu coait : the mod difhmt is about feveu or eight miles. They are -?nted for • 61. per

• Once bringing to a Dutch fiijjatc of forty guns ; wliicli, witli all the crew, v :i3 loH oppofite to the
CJlUt biMil .''xty yiais apo.

f 'ihc 1U\ Thomas tJliarjie, D. D.

annum

1
i

■ 1

<■

PENNANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

annum : their produce is kelp, feme few feathers, and a few feals, which tiie tenant
V atchcs and fhoots for the fake of the oil and Ikins. Some of them yield a little giafs,
and forve to feed a cow or two, which the people arc defperatc rnough to traniport over
in their little boats.

July 15. Vifited thefe iflandsinacoble, a fafebut feeminglv hazardous fpecies of boat,
lonr, narrow, and flat-bottomed, which is capable of going through a high fea, dancing
like a c">rk on the fumniits of the waves.

Touched at the rock* called the Meg, wliitened with the dung of corvorants which
almolt covered it; their nells were large, made of tang, and excefTively fcetid.

Rowed next to the Pinnacles, an ifland in the fartiiefl; groupe ; fo called from fome
vnfl columnar rocks at the fouth end, even at their fides, and flat at their tops, and en-
tirely covered with guillemots and (liags : the fowlers pafs from one to the other of
thefe columns by means nf a narrow board, which they place from Up to top, forming
a narrow bridge, over fuch a horrid gap that the very fight of it Itrikcs one with horror.

Landed at a fmall ifland, where we found the female eider ducks* at that time fitting :
the lower part of their nefts was made of feaplants ; the upper part was formed of the
down which they pull off their own breads, in which the eggs were furrounded and
warmly bedded : in fome were three, in others five eggs, of a large fize, and pale olive
colour, as fmooth and glolly as if varniflied over. The nefts are built on the beach,
among the loofe pebbles, not far from the water. The ducks fit very clofe, nor will
they rife till you almoll tread on them. The drakes feparate themfelves from the fe-
males during the breeding feafon. We robbed a few of their nefts of the down, and
after carctuUy fcparating it from the tang, found that the down of one neft weighed only
three quarters of an ounce, but was fo elaftic as to fill the crown of the largeft hat. The
people of this country call thefe St. Cuthbert's ducks, from the faint of the iflands f.

Befides thefe birds, I oblerved the following : puflins, here called torn noddies, auks,
here Ikouts, guillemots, black guillemots, little auks, fhiel ducks, fhags, corvorants,
black and white gulls, brown and white gulls, herring gulls, which I was told fed fome-
times on eggs of other birds, common gulls, here annets, kittiwakes or tarrocks, pewit
gulls, great terns, fea pies, fea larks, here brokcts, jackdaws which breed in rabbet-holes,
rock pidgcons, rock larks.

The terns were fo numerous, that in fome places it was difficult to tread without
crufliing fome of the eggs.

The laft ifle T vifited v^as the Iloufe Ifland, the fequeftercd fpot where St. Cuthbert
paflTed the two laft years of his life. Here was afterwards cftablilhed a priory of Bene-
diclines for fix or eight monks fubordinate to Durham. A fquare tower, the remains
of a church, and fome other buildings, are fo be fcen there ttill ; and a ftone coilin,
which, it is pretcndL'd, was that of St. Cuthbert. At the north end of the ifle is a deep
chafm, from the top to the bottom of the rock, communicating to the fea, through
which, in temped nous weather, tho water is forced with vaft violence and noifc-, and
forms a fine /<7 cl'iau of fixty feet hi^h : it is called by the inhabitants of the oppofito
coaft the Churn.

Reached fliore through a moft turbulent rippling, occafioncd by the fierce current of
the tides betwe;?n the iflands and the coaft.

i!;

* Viilc Br. Zool. ii No. 271. I have been informed iliat tliey alfo breed on Iiuli-Colm, in the Firth

of Forlli.

f I itiiiil licre ni-!,i',)\v!eil(rc my nblipationn »(> jofeph Baiiki, Kfcj. wlio, previous to liis circiimnavifjation,
liherally pamitird n.y artilt lo lake co^iica ol Itiii vakialile tolltC.tioii of ZcuioLjic drawing'* ; ainoiigll others,
thufc uf ibc cider duckt.

July

MNNANT's tour in SCOTLAND.

«3

winch

pewit

lL\S,

the Firth

July

July 17. Purfued my journey northward. Saw at a diftance the Cheviot hills;
on which, I was informed, the green plovers breed ; and that, diirin;^ winter, flocks in-
numerable of the great bramblings, or fnow-flakcs, appear ; the niofl; fouthern place
of their migration in large companies.

The country almoft woodlcfs, there being but one wood of any confequencc between
Bedford and Berwick. Saw on the left another anticnt tower, which fhevved the cha-
raflier of the times, when it was unhappily ncceflliry, on thefe borders, lor every houfe
to be a fortrefs.

On the right, had a view of the fea, and, not remote from the land of Lindesfarn,
or Holy Ifland, once an epifcopal feat, afterwards tranflated to Durham. On it are
the ruins of a caftle and a church. Mr. Grofe has given an entertaining and ample
hiitory of the place : and has informed me, that the ruins are fine remains of the Saxon
many architecture. Its firft bifliop was Aidan in 635. In fome parts of the ifland are
abundance of cntrochi, which ;\re called by the country people St. Cuthbcrt's beads.

After a few miles riding, have a full view of Berwick, and the river Tweed wind-
ing weflward for aconfiderable way up the country ; but its banks are without any par-
ticular charnis *, being almoft woodlefs. The river is broad, and has over it abridge
of fixteen very handfome arches, efpecially two next the town.

Berwick is fortified in the modern way ; but is much contraiStcd in its extent to
what it was formerly ; the old caftle and works now lying at fome diftance beyond the
prefent ramparts. The barracks are large, and confift of a center and two wings.
On the ceflion of this place, as one of the fecurities for the payment of the ranfom of
William I. of Scotland, (according to the Polychronicon of Durham, quoted by
Camden) the caltle i,'now a ruin) was built by Henry II. That politic prince knew
the importance of this key to the two kingdoms. I imagine it had been little under-
ftood before the reign of his illuftrious prifoner : for about feventy years preceding,
Edgar, one of his predecellors, had prefcnted this place, with the lands of Coldingham,
to the abby of Durham f. Froni the ti.ne of its ceflion to the Scots by Richard 1.
it for near throe centuries became an objeft of contention between the two nations :
but in 1482, the laft year of Edward IV., was finally wrefted from Scotland. By a
conve'ntion between Edward VI. and the Queen Regent J, it was declared a free town.
If fo it could be called, while the garrifon and caftle remained in the power of the
Englifli. blames I. of England confirmed to it the privileges granted to it by Edward IV.
It remained a place independent of both kingdoms, under its proper jurifdiction, till
1 747, when the Icgiflature annexed it to England. The lands belonging to it, or
what are called Berwick Bounds, are about 8000 acres.

The religious had five convents, all founded by the Scottifli monarchs. Here were
Mathurines, Dominicans, and Francifcans, and two nunneries, one of Benediftines,
another of Ciftcrtians §. The church was built by Cromwell, and, according to the
i'pirit of the builder, without a fteeple. Even in Northumberland, (towards the bor-
ders) the fteeplts grow lefs and lei's, an^ as it were forewarned the traveller that he
was fpeedily to take leave of epifcopacy. The town-houfe has a largo and handfome
modern tower to it : the llreets in general are narrow and bad, except that in which
the town-houfe ftands.

Abundance of wool is exported from this town : eggs in vaft abundance col-
IcQed through all the country, almoft as far as Carlifle : they arc packed up in

• The heaiitlfiil biinks of the Tweed verify tlie old fong from Melroa to Coldllieam.
f Aiidirlon's Diplom. No. IV. | Ryir.cr, XV. 265.

§ Ktilhj 2 [J. 270, 274.. 280. z8i.

boxes

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND,

i I

■L

:|i.

boxes; with the tliick end downwards, and are font to London for the ufo of fugar
refincrs.

'I'hc ilihnon (iflicrles Iicrc arc very confidorable, and likewifo hr'ing in vafl; fum^ ;
they lie on each iiJc the river, and arc all private property, except thofc bclont^n'ng to
the dean rtid chapter of Durham, which, in rent and tythc of rifli, bring iii 450I. per
;in.'. for nil tlie oilier lifheries arc liable to tythc. The common rents of thofe are
t,o!. •» year, for which tenants have as much fliore as fcrves to launch out and d \vr
their nets on fJiorc : the limits of each are llaked ; and I obferveil that the fifhers Mcvcr
failed going as near as polliblc to their neighbour's limits. One inan goes ofl" in a
i'mnll ibt-bottomcd boat, fquare at one end, and taking as large a circuit as his net ad-
mits, brings it on iliorcat the extremity of his boundary, where others allift in landing
it. 'file beft fifhery is on the fouih fide * : very line falmon trout are often taken here,
V hich come up 10 fpawii from the fea, and return in the func manner as the falmon do.
The chief import is timber from Norway aiui the Baltic.
Ahnolt imniediaicly on leaving Berwick, enter

SCOTLAND,

in ihe fliirc of IVIerch, or Mersf. A little way from Berwick, on the weft, is Ilalydon-
bill, famous for the overthrow of the Scots under the regent Douglas by Kdward II.
<.in the attempt of the former to raife the fiege of the town. A cruel aflion blafted
the laurels of the conqueror : Scton, the deputy governor +, flipulated to furrender in
jifieen days, if not rclieveil in that time, and gave his fon as hoUage for the perform-
ance. The time elapled ; Seton rcfuled to execute the agreement, and with a Roman
iinfvlingnefs beheld the unhappy youth hung before the walls.

The entrance into Scotland has a veiy unpromifing look ; for it wanted, for fome
miles, the cultivation of the parts more diilant from I'.ngland : but the borders were
iieccflarily iicglecled ; for, till the acccilion of James \T. and even long after, the na-
ti.-nai enmity was kept up, and the borders of both countries difcouraged from im-
provemcnts bv tlie barbarous inroads i>f each nation. '1 his inatttntion to agriculture
continued till lately ; but on reaching the hnall village of I'.ytown, the fcene was greatly
altered ; the wretched cottages, or rather hovels of the country, were vanifJiing ; good
comfortable houfcs arife in their flead ; the lands arc inclofmg, and yield very good
liarlev, oafs, iJid clover; the bariks are planting : I fpcak in tin; preleiit tcnie ; for
there is Hill a mixture of tiic old negligence li It auiidlt the recent improvements, which
look liketiio works of a new colony, in a wretched impovcrilheil country.

Soon altvM- tlie country rcla.pfes ; no ar.ihle land is Kvii ; but for iour or five miles
iucceeds the black joykls heathy moor ol C'.oldingham : happily, this is tiic whuk- fpc-
timcn that remains of the many miles, which, not many years ago, were in the liimc
tireary unprcti'aMe (late. Near t!:is was the convent of that name immortalized by
the hcroiim ol its inms ; who, to preilrve theijii'clvts inviolate from the Dines, cut
<^tl' their lijjs and noks ; and tiius rii:dering thanfelves objects of horror, were, in
870, with their abb.fs 111, ha, bui-nt in th.e ii: -nailery by th.' diliipijinnted lavages, lu
1216, it was burnt again by King John, in an .iiroad little iefs cruel.

• Tor a fuller .iccimnt of ll is iifluty, moc Brltilh Zo<il(i{ry, III. Xu. 15^. To it may alio Ic ad.li-i),
OiSt in lire iniiiii.'c of the iivcr, not a mile \»til ot tlic liwii, ii, a loii^i' llom, ou wliieli a tr.aii ij nl.icvj, to olj-
{iwv \\\,i'i I. t,,!lt.' tlic ifi k I t lilt falnUMi conirrp; i;[).

f I'l.clhias i.:<.5| tLit I,. I. i* till. c Lull.iMls u i tf IdimkI in illi^ c jji.ty ; lint tl:vy .iic nww cxtitjj.ilnl ;
l,i;t tl.i. liillorian (. li.MJiim gull.inK-s. iJifc. ^c.n 7.

J. Koitli, till. ;:• \ir! or, li;r.;irr a lil'l' IjJorc Iff. till' iil.iei, in etJcr to iXLiit Aiel.iLalJ L'uiiijia?, io,;ciit
Vi'^tOtlilJ, to...Ul. ; t to i,.ii(. tl.i. 1;. jc,

Thij

PENNANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND*

^25

This nunnery was the oldeft in Scotland. For In this place the virgin-wife Ethel-
<lrcda took the veil in 670 : but by the antient name, Coludum *, it fhould feem that
it had before been inhabited by the religious called Culdees. After its deftru£tion by
the Danes, it lay deferted till the year 1098, when Edgar founded on its fite a priory
of Benediftines, in honour of St. Cuthbert ; and bellowed it on the monks of Durham,
with allJands, waters, wrecks, &c. t«

At the end of the moor came at once in fight of the Firth of Forth, the Boderia of
Ptolemy J ; a moft extenfive profpedt of the great arm of the fea, of the rich country
of Eaft Lothian, the Bafs Ifle ; and at a diftance the ifle of May, the coaft of the county
of Fife, and the country as far as Montrofc.

After going down a long defcent, dine at Old Cambus, at a mean houfe in a poor
village ; where I believe the lord of the foil is often execrated by the weary traveller,
for not enabling the tenant to furnifh more comfortable accommodations in fo con-
fiderable a thoroughfare. I have been told by an anonymous correfpondent §,that the
proper name oi this place is Alt Camus, or the place where a rivulet falls into a bay.
He alfb added, that a good inu has, of late years, been built about a mile eaftward of
the place.

The country becomes now extremely fine j bounded at a diftance, on one fide, by
hills, on the other, by the fea : the intervening fpace is as rich a tra£i of corn land as
I ever faw ; for Eaft Lothian is the Northamptonfliire of North Britain : the land is in
many places manured with fea tang ; but I was informed, that the barley produced
from it is much lighter than barley from other manure.

On the fide of the hills, on the left, is Sir John Hall's, of Dunglas ; a fine fituati,
with beautiful plantations. Pafs by Broxmouth, a large houfe of the Duke of Rox-
burgh, in a low fpot, with great woods furrounding it. Reach

Dunbar : the chief ftreet broad and handfome ; the houfes built of ftone ; as is the
cafe with moft of the towns in Scotland. There are fome (hips fent anually from this
place to Greenland, and the exports of corn are pretty confiderable. The harbour is
iafe but fmall ; its entrance narrow, and bounded by two rocks. Between the har-
bour and the caftle is a very furprifing ftratum of ftone, in fome refpefts refembling
that of the Giant's Caufeway in Ireland : it confifts of great columns of a red grit
ftone, either triangular, quadrangular, pentangular, or hexangular ; their diameter '
from one to two feet, their length at low water thirty, dipping or inclining a little to
the fouth.

They are jointed, but not fo regularly, or fo plainly, as thofe that form the Giant'?
Caufeway. The furface of feveral that had been torn oft", appear as a pavement pt
numbers of convex ends, probably anfwering to the concave bottoms of other joints
once incumbent on them. The fpace between the columns was filled with thin fepta
of red and white fparry matter, and veins of the f,ime pervaded the columns tranl-
verfely. This range of columns faces the north, with a point to the eaft, and extends
in front about two hundred yards. The breadth is inconfidcnible : the reft of the rock
<k;:5ener;itLs into fliapclefs maflcs of the fame fort of ftone, irregularly divided by thick
fipta. '1 his rock is called by the people of Dunbar, the Ifle.

* lUdf, lib. iv. c. 19. "I- Aiideifon'sDipl. No. IV.

; Bojoiiiu of Tacitus, wlio dcfcrlbcs ilie two tirtlis of Clyde and Tortli, ;hk1 the intervening iillimus,
witli much propriety ; fjieakiiig of the foutth fumnier Agiicola had pafTcd in Britain, and how convenient
!rf Conn J this r.ariow \.rJ\ for fliiifting out the enemy by his fortrcffes, he fays. AW, Glota (Firth oiClyJe)
et I'jodotria, tUverJi marls t'ht pev mmenfum reviH't, nngujxa Itrrarwn JpaltQ Jirimunlur. Vit. Agr.

i Sent to mc by poll, without dale of lime or place.

voh. III. .J Oppofite

mnnant's tour m Scotland,

Oppofite are the ruins of the caflle, feated on a rock above the fea ; underneath
one part is a vad cavern, compofed of a black and red ftone, which gives it a mofl:
infernal appearance } a fit reprefentation of the pit of Acheron, and wanted only to be
peopled with witches to make the fcene complete ; it appears to- have been the dun-
geon, there being a formed paflage from above, where the poor prifoners might have
been let down, according to the barbarous cuftom of war in early days. There are
in fome parts, where the rock did not clofe, the remains of walls, for the openings
are only natural fiflurcs ; but the founders of the caflle taking advantage of thi$
. cavity, adding a little art to it, rendered it a moft complete and fecure pri-
fon.

On the other fide are two natural arches, through which the tide flowed ; under
one was a fragment of wall, where there fecins to have been a portal for the admiilion
of men or provifions from fea : through which it is probable that Alexander Ramfay,
in a ftormy night, reinforced the garrifon, in fpite of the fleet which lay before the
place, when clofely beficged by the Englifli, in 1337, and gallantly defended for
nineteen weeks by that heroine Black Agnes, Countefs of March *.

Through one of thefe arches was a moft pidiirefque view of the Bafs Ifle,
with the fun fetting in full fplendor ; through the other, of the May ifland, gilt
by its beams.

Over the ruins of a window were the three legs, or arms of the Ifle of Man, a lion
rampant, and a St. Andrew's crofs.

In the church is the magnificent monument of Sir George Hume, Earl of Dunbar,
the worthieft and befl Scotch miniiler of James VI. till he chofe his favourites for
their perfonal, inflead of their intellectual accomplifliments : moderate, prudent, and
fuccefsful in the management of the Scotch affairs : and, as Spotfwood remarks,
*' a man of deep wit, few words, and in His Majefty's fervice no Icfs faithfull than for-
tunate : the moft difScile aflairs he compaffed without any noife ; and never returned
when he was employed without the work performed that he was fent to do :" to his
y honor, he recommended the temperate, firm, and honeft Abbot to the fee of Canter-
bury, and by his aihflance gave peace to the church of Scotland, too foon interrupted
by their deaths. Dunbar's merit is evident ; for the weakneffes and the infamy of his
mafter's reign did not commence during the period of his power.

The monument is a large and beautiful ftruCture of marble, decorated with arms,
figures, and fluted pillars. The Earl is reprcfcnted in armour, kneeling, with a cloak
hanging loofely on him. The iiifcription imports no more than his titles and the day
of his death, January 29th, 1610.

Near this town were fought two battles fatal to the Scots. The firft in 1296;
when the Earls of Surrey and Warwick, generals of Edward I. defeated the army of
Baliol, took the caflle, and delivered the nobility they found in it to the Englifli mo-
narch, who with his ufual cruelty, devoted them all to death.

The other was the celebrated vi.5tory of Cromwell, in 1650 ; when the covenantin"-
army chofe rather to fight under the direction of the minillers than the command of
their generals : and the event was correfpondent. Thefe talfe prophets gave the troops
afTurancc of viclory ; and many of them fell in the fight with the lyin^ fj)irit in their
♦)uths. Cromwell had the appearance of enthufiafni ; they the reality j for when the

" Biichanan, lib. ix, c. 25. The Kngliih were obliged to defift from llieir enteiprlze. Ajjnea wag
tWell daughter of Sir 'I'lioma* RanJal. of Stradown, Karl of Murray, and nephew to Kobtil Brute. She
»»i laiUd ^lack Ajjiies, fays Robat Liadefay, became (he was black-Ikuiiicd

5 artful

was

SI.e

jrfful ufurper faw theli* troops

(larvcd tlie whole

MNNANT's tour in SCOTLAND.* Wf

dofcend from the heights from whence they might with-
Eijglifli army, he, with a well-founded confi-
dence exclaimed, Thf. Lord hath delivered THf.M into our hands. Cromwell
at that inftant was in the fituation of Hannibal before the battle of Cannse. The ex-
ultation of the Carthaginian was the fame, delivered indeed by his hiftorian with
greater eloquence *.

But the caftle has been the fcene of very diflferent tranfadions.

1 567 It was in
polMion of the infamous Earl Bothwell, who here committed the fimulated outrage
on the perfon of the fair Mary Stuart ; ihe certainly feems to have had foreknowledge
of the violence; and the affront Ihe fuftained was but a pigntts direptum male pertinaci.
Here alfo the Earl retreated, after being given up by his miftrefs at the capitulation of
Carberry-hill ; and from hence he took his departure for his long, but merited miiery.

In this town was a convent of Mathurines, founded by Patrick Earl of Dunbar and
M.irch, in 1218 ; and another of Carmelites or white friers, in 1263.

July'iB. Rode wuhin fight of Tantallon caftle, now a wretched ruin; once the
feat of the powerful Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus, which for feme time refifted
all the efforts of James V. to fubdue it.

A little further, about a mile from the fliore, lies the Bafs Illind, or rather rock, of
R molt ftupendous height ; on the fouth fide the top appears of a conic (hape, but the
other overhangs the lea in a moft tremendous manner. The caftle, whiciv was once
the ftate prifon of Scotland, is now negle£ted : it lies clofe to the edge of the precipice,
facing the little village of Caftleton ; where I took boat, in order to vifit this fingular
foot ; but the weather proved unfavourable ; the wind blew fo frefh, and the waves
ran fo high, that it was impoffible to attempt landing ; for even in calmer weather it
cannot be done without hazard, there being a fteep rock to afcend, and commonly a
great fwell, which often removes the boat, while you are fcaling the precipice ; fo.'in
cafe of a falfe ftep, there is the chance of falling into a water almoft unfathomable.

My anonymous friend tells me that this rock has the appearance ol being volcanic,
and that it confifts of two maffes caff up together, but fo irregularly joined, that he
knew a perfon who fome years ago had actually crept through the paffage which ran
from north to fouth.

Various forts of water fowl repair annually to this rock to breed ; but none in
greater numbers than the gannets, or Soland geefe, multitudes of which were then fit-
ting on their ncfts; near the floping part of the ifle, and others flying over our boat : it
is not permitted to ftioot at them, the place being farmed principally on account of the
profit arifing from the fale oi the young of thefe birds, and of the kittiwake, a fpecies of
cull, fo called from its cry. The firft are fold at Edinburgh t for twenty-pence apiece,
and ferved up roafted a little before dinner. This is the only kind of provifion whofe
price has not been advanced ; for we learn from Mr. Ray, that it was equally dear
above a century ago |. It is unneceffay to fay more of this fingular bird, as it has beea
very fully treated of in the fecond volume of the Britilh Zoology.

With much difficulty landed at North Berwick, three miles diftant from CaftletoH,
the place we intended to return to. The firft is a finall town pleafantly ftated near a

• Tolybiiis, lib. iii. c. 23.- _

\ Sol. AN Goose. — There 13 to be fold by John Walfon, jiin. at hia ftand at t'le Poultry, Edinburgh,
all lawliil days in the week, wind and wcaiiier ferving, guod and frelU Solan geifc. Any who have occa-
fion for the fame may have them at reafunable rates,

Aug. J. 1768. Elimbuhgii Advertisek.

X Ray'i Itincrariei, 191.

« « higk

: =

pennant's tour m Scotland.

high conic hill, partly planted with trees : it is feen at a great dlflance, and Is called
North Berwick Law : a name given to feveral other high hills in this part of the
iiland.

Pars through Abberladie and Prefton Pans : the laft takes its name from its fait pans,
there being a confiderable work of that article ; alfo another of vitriol. Saw at a Iniall
diltance the field ofbattle,or rather of carnage, known by the name of thebattlc of Prcdcm
Pans, where the rebels gave a lefTon of feverity, which was more than retaliated the
following fpringat CuUoden. Obferved, in this day's ride (I forget the fpoi) Seaton,
the once princely feat of the Earl of Wintoun, now a ruin ; judicioufly left in that (tate,
as a proper remembrance of the fad fate of thofe who engage in rebtUious politics.

Pinkie and Carberry-hill lie a little weft of the road, a few miles from l.Jinburgh ;
each of them famed in hiftory. The firft noted for the fatal overthrow oi^ the Scots
under their Regent, the Earl of Arran, on September the loth, 1 547, by the Proti'£lor»
Duke of Somerfet. Ten thoufand Scots fell that day : and by this rou,i;li courtfliip,
Mary Stuart, then in her minority, was frightened into the arms of tlic Dauphin of
France, inftead of fliaring the crown of England with her amiai-le couila V'dward VI.
Twenty years after, Carberry-hill proved a fpot ftill more prpgnant with misfortunes to
this imprudent princefs. Her army, in 1567, occupied the very camp poflenbd by the
Englifli before the battle of Pinkie. Here, with the profligate Boihwell, ihc hoped to
make a ftand againft her infurgent nobles. Her forces, terrified with the badnefs of
the caufe, declined the fight. She furrendcred to the confederates ; while her huiband,
by the connivance of Morton and others, partakers of his crimes, retired, and cfcaped
his merited punifhment.

At Muffelburgh, crofs the Efk near its mouth. There are great marks of improve-
ment on approaching the capital ; the roads good, the country very populous, numbers
of manufadures carried on, and the profpeft embellifhed with gentlemen's feats. Reach

Edinburgh *. — A city that poffefles a boldnefs and grandeur of fituation beyond any
that I had ever feen. It is built on the edges and fides of a vaft Hoping rock, of a groat
and precipitous height at the upper extremity, and the fides declining very qnick and
fteep into the plain. The view of the houfes at a diftance ftrikes the traveller with
wonder ; their own loftinefs, improved by their almoft aerial fituation, gives them a look
of magnificence not to be found in any other part of Great Britain. All thefe con-
fpicuous buildings form the upper part of the great ftreet, are of ftone, and make a hand-
fome appearance : they are generally fix or feven ftories high in front ; but by reafon
of the declivity of the hill, much higher backward ; one in particular, called Babel, had
about twelve er thirteen ftories, before the fire in 1700, but is now reduced to ten or
eleven. Every houfe has a common ftaircafe, and every ftory is the habitation of a
feparate family. The inconvenience of this particular ftrudure need not be mentioned ;
notwithftanding the utmoft attention, in the article of cleanlinefs, is in general obferved.
The common complaint of the ftreets of Edinburgh is now taken away, by the viligancc
of the magiftrates f, and their feverity againft any that offend in any grofs degree |. It
muft be obferved, that this unfortunate fpecies of architedure arofe from the turbu-
lence of the times in which it was in vogue : every body was defirous of getting as near

* Known throughout the Highlands by the name Diin-cJin.

f The ftreets are cleaned early every morning. Once the city payed for the cleaning ; at prtfeiit it ia
rented for four or five hniidrtd rounds per annum.

i Jn the cltifcs, or allies, the iuliabiiants aie very apt to fling out their filth, &c. without regarding who
palfes ; but the fufTcrer may call every inhabitant of the houfe it cam« frum.tu aecuuiit, and make thcni
ftovc the delinquent, whuia alwaya punilhcd with a heavy tine,

•iS

-rf»

MNNAMT's TOU& IH 8C0TI.AKB.

J who

tilCIU

as pofTible to the prote£llon of the caftle ; the houfes were crouded together, and I may
fay, piled one upon another, merely on the principle of fecurity.

The caftle is ancient, but (Irong, placed on the fummit of the hill, at the edge of a
very deep precipice. Strangers are (hewn a very fmall room in which Mary Queen of
Scots was delivered of James VI.

From this fortrefs is a full view of the city and its environs j a ftrange profpeft of
rich country, with vad rocks and mountains intermixed. On the fouth and eaft are the
meadows, or the public walks, Herriot's Hofpital, part of the town overfhadowed by
the flupendous rocks of Arthur's Seat and Salulbury Craigs, the Pentland hills at a few
miles diflance, and at a dill greater, thofe of Muirfoot, whofe fides are covered with
verdant turf.

To the north is a full view of the Firth of Forth, from Queen's Ferry to its mouth,
with itsfouthern banks covered with towns and villages* On the whole the profped is
fmgular, various, and fme.

The refervoir of water * for fupplying the city lies in the Caftle-ftreet, and is well
worth feeing : the great ciftern contains near two hundred and thirty tons of water,
which is conveyed to the feveral conduits, that are difpofed at proper diftances in the
principal ftreets ; thefe are conveniencies that few towns in North Britain are without.

On the fouth fide of the High-ftreet, is the Parliament Clofe, a fmall fquare, in
which is the Parliament Houfe, where the courts ofjuftice are held. Below ftairs is
the Advocates' library founded by Sir George Mackenzie, and now contains above
thirty thoufand volumes, and feveral manufcripts : among the more curious are the four
Evangelifts, very legible, notwithllanding it is faid to be feveral hundred years old.

St. Jerome's bible, wrote about the year i loo.

A Malabar book, written on leaves of plants.

A Turkifli manufcript, illuminated in fome parts like a miffal. Ekpiim infultan
MoradJiliumJiliiSoliman Tiircici. Script. ConJlantinopoU. Jnno Hcgira, 992.

Cartularies, or records of the monafteries, fome very ancient.

A very large Bible, bound in four volumes i illuftrated with fcripture prints, by the
firft engravers, parted in, and collected at a vaft expence. There are befides great
numbers of andquities, not commonly Ihewn, except inquired after.

The Luckenbooth row, which contains the Tolbooth, or city prifon ; and the weigh-
ing-houfc, VI hich brings in a revenue of 500I. per annum^ ftands in the middle of the
High-ftreet, and with the guard-houfe, contributes to fpoil as fine a ftreet as moft in
Europe, being in fome parts eighty feet wide and finely built.

The exchange is a handfome modern building, in which is the cuftom-houfe : the
firft is of no ufe in its proper character ; for the merchants always chufe ftanding in
the open ftreet, expofcd to all kinds of weather.

The old cathedral is now called the Now Church, and is divided into four places of
worftiip ; in one the Lords of the Scflions attend : there is alfo a throne and a ca-
nopy for his majefty ftiould he vifit ttiis capital, and another for the Lord Comniiirioner.
There is no niulic either in this or any other of thc> Scotch churches, for Peg ftill faints
at the found of an organ. This is the more i'urprifing, as the Dutch, wlio have the^
fame eftablifticd religion, arc extremely fond of that folenm Inftrument j and even in the
great church of Geneva the pfalmody is accompanied with an organ.

The part of the fame called St. Giles's church has a large tower, oddly terminated
■wtith a fort of crown.

It it conveyed in pipes from the Pentland hills five miles diAant*

Ou'

MNNANT's tour IM SCOTLAND.

til

On the front of a houfe in the Nether Bow, arc two fine profile heads of a man and
a woman, of Roman fculpture, fuppofed to be thole of Severus am! Julia : but, as ap-
pears from an infcription • made by the perfon who put them into the wall, were nul"-
taken for Adam and Eve.

Near the Trone church are the remains of the houfe, (now a tavern) where Mary
Stuart was confined the night after the battle of Carberry.

• At the end of the Cannongate-llreet (lands Holy Rood palace, originally an abbey
founded by David I. in 1 1 28. The towers on the N. W. fide were eretlcd by James V.
together with other buildings, for a royal refidcnce: according to the editor of Cam-
den, great part, except the towers above mentioned, were burnt by Cromwell ; but the
other towers, with the red of this mugnificont palace, as it now ilands, were executed
by Sir William Bruce, by the dire£lions of Charles U. ; within is a beautiful fquare, with
piazzas on every fide. It contains great numbers of fine apartments ; Ibme, that are
called liie King's, are in great difurdcr, the reft are granted to feveral of the nobility.

In the F.arl of Brcadalbanc's, arc fome good portraits,

William Duke of Newcaftle by Vandyck ;

And by Sir Peter Leiy, the Duke and Dutchefs of Lauderdale, and Edward Earl of
Jerfey. There is befidcs a very good head of a boy by Morrillio, and fome views of
the fine fcenes near his lordfhip's feat at Taymotith.

A I Lord Dunmore's lodgings is a very large piece of Charles L and his Queen going
to ride, with the Iky Ihoworing rofes on them ; a black holds a grey horle ; the cele-
brated Jeftery Iludfonf the dwarf with a fpaniol in a firing, and feveral other dogs
fporting round : the qutcn is painted with a Jovo-Iock, and with browner hair and
compleiftion, and younger, than I ever faw her drawn. It is a good pi&ce, and was the
work of RIytens, predcceffor in fame to Vandyck. In the fame place are two othar
good portraits of Charles II. and James VII.

The gallery of this palace takes up one fide, and is filled with coloflal portraits of
the Kings of Scotland.

In the old towers are fliewn the apartments where the murthcr of David Rizzo was
committed.

That beautiful piece of Gothic architeiElure, the church, or chapel, of Holy-Rood
Abbey, is now a ruin, the roof having fallen in, by a tnoft fcandalous neglect, notwilh-
(landing money had been granted by government to preferve it entire. Beneath the
ruins lie the bodies of James II. and James V. Henry Darnly, and feveral other perfons
of rank: and the infcriptlons on feveral of their tombs are prefervedby Maitland. A
gentleman informed me, that fome years ago he had feen the remains of the bodies,
but in a very decayed (late : the beards remained on fome ; and that the bones of
Henry Darnly proved their owner by their great fize, for he was faid to be feven feet
high.

Near this palace is the Park, firft inclofed by James V. ; within are the vaft rocks J,
Itnowii by the names of Arthur's Seat and SalulLury's Craigs ; their fronts exhibit a
romantic and wiKl fcene of broken rocks land vaft precipices, which from fome points
fteni to over-hang the lower parts of the city. Great columns of (lone, from forty to
fifty feet m length, and about three feet in diameter, regularly pentar;onal, or hex-
agonal, hang down the iacc of fome of tlufe rocks almoft perpendicularly, or with a

• /n/ufforeva/ltit tui vf/ifrit pjnt. Anm i6zi. Tliefe heads are well engraven in Gordon'* Itinerary,

All. iii.

+ For a further account of this liiilc hero confiilt Mr. \Valp)lc's Anecdotes of Painting, ii. p 10.
4 .■\c(.ordin^ to Muiijjiij, their pcrpdvliciilar height is 636 feet.

very

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

3«

Mary

very flight dip, and form a (Irange appearance. Beneath this (Iratum is a quarry of
free'flone. Confiderable quantities of (tone from the quarries have been cut and fent
to London for paving the ftreets,- its great hardnefs rend ? it excellent for that
purpofe. Beneath thefe hills are fome of the mofb beautiful .. alks about Edinburgh^
commanding afineprofpe£l over feveral parts of the country.

On one fide of the Park are the ruins of St. Anthony's chapel, once the refort of
numberlefs votaries ; and near it is a very plentiful fpring.

The fouth part of the city has feveral things worth vifiting. Herriot's Holpital is a
fine old building, much too magnificent for the end propofed, that of educating poor
children. It was founded by George Herriof, jeweller to James VI. who followed that
monarch to London, and made a large fortune. There is a fine view of the caflle,
and the floping part of the city, from the front : the gardens were once the refort of
the gay ; and there the Scotcn poets often laid, in their comedies, the fcenes of in-
trigue.

In the church-yard of the Grey Friers, is the monument of Sir George Mackenzie,
a rotunda ; with a multitude of other tombs. This is one of the few cemeteries to this
populous city ; and from it is a very fine view of the caflle, and the lofty ftreet that
leads to that fortrefs.

The college is a mean building ; it contains the houfes of the Principal and a few of
the Profeflbrs : the Principal's houfe is fuppofed to be on the fite of that in which
Henry Darnly was murdered, then belonging to the provoft of the kirk of FieM.
The lludents of the univerfity are difperfed over the town, and are about fix hundred in
number ; but wear no academic habit. The ftudents are liable to be called before the
profeflbrs, who have power of rebuking or expelling them : I cannot learn that either is
ever exerted ; but, as they are for the moft part volunteers for knowledge, few of them'
defert her ftandards. There are twenty-two profeflbrs of difl'erent fciences, moft of
whom read leisures : all the chairs are very ably filled ; thofe in particular which relate
to the ftudy of medicine, as is evident from the number of ingenious phyficians, elevcs
of this univerfity, who prove the abilities of their maflers. The Mufa:um has for many
years been neglefted.

The royal infirmary fs a fpacious and handfome edifice, capable of containing^ two-
hundred patients. The operation room is particularly convenient, the council-roonx
elegant, with a good pifture in it of Provoft Drummond. From the cupola of this
building is a fine profpeft, and a full view of the city.

Not fiir from hence are about three acres of ground defigned for a fquare, calledi
George Square : a fmall portion is at prefent built, confining of fmall but commodious
houfes, in the Englifh fafhion. Such is the fpirit of improvement, that within thefe-
three years fixty thoufand pounds have been expended in houfes of the modern taft"e,.
and twenty thoufand in the old.

VVatfon's hofpital (hould not be forgot : a large good building, behind the Grey-
Friers church J an excellent inftitution for the educating and apprenticing the children
of decayed merchants ; who, after having fervcd their time with credit, receive fifty
pounds to fet up with.

I'he meadows, or public walks, are well planted, and arc very extenfive : thefe are
the mall of Edinburgh, as Comely Gardens are its Vauxhall.

The Cowgatcisa long ftreet, running parallel with the lligh-ftreet, beneath the ftcep-
fouthern declivity of the city, and terminates in the Grafs-market, where cattle are
fold, and criminals executed. On feveral of the houfes are liuall iron crofles, which,,
1 was informed, denoted that they once belonged to the knights of St.. John,

««

i»mM ant's tour m icotlavb.

On the north fide of the city lies the new town, which is planned with great judgment,
and will prove a magnificent addition to Edinburgh ; the houfes in St. Andrew's Square
coll from 1800I. to aoool. each, and one or two 4000 or 5000I. They are all built
Jn the modern (lyle, and are free from the inconveniences attending the old city.

Thefe improvements are €onne£ted to the city by a very beautiful bridge, whofe
higheft arch is ninety five feet high.

In the walk of this evening, I pafled by a deep and wide hollow beneath Calton Hill,
the place where thofe imaginary criminals, witches and forcercrs, in lefs enlightened
times, were burnt ; and where, at ft'llivc feafons, the gay and gallant held their tilts and
tournaments. At one of thcfe, it is faid that the Earl of Bothwell made the firft im-
prelTion on the fufceptible heart of Mary Stuart, having galloped into the ring down the
dangerous Aeeps of the adjacent hill ; for he Teemed to think that

Women liorn to he controlM
Stoop to the forward and the buld.

The defperate feats were the humour of the times of chivalry : Brantome relates, that
•the Due de Nemours galloped down the fteps of the Sainte Chappel at Paris, to the
aftonifhment of the beholders. 1 he men cultivated every exercife that could prefcrvc
or improve their bodily llrength ; the ladies, every art that tended to exalt (heir
4:harms. Mary is imported to have ufed a bath of white wine ; a cudom ftrange, but
not without precedent. Jaques du Fouilloux enraptured with a country girl, enumerat-
ing the arts which flie fcomed to ufe to improve her perfon, mentions this :

Point ne portolt de cc linge fcmelle
Four amoiiidrir fon fciiig et fa mammclle.
Vafqiifne nulle, ou aucun peli^on
• . £lle ne portoit, cc n'clloit fa ia^ on,

Point ne prenoit vin blanc pour fe baigner,
Ne drogue encore pour four fon corpi alleger *.

At afmall walWs diftance from Calton Hill, lies the new botanic garden t, confift-
ing of five acres of ground, a green-houfe fifty feet long, two temperate rooms, each
twelve feet, and two lloves, each twenty-eight feet : the ground rifes to the north, and
<lcfends the plants from the cold winds : the foil a light fand, with a black earth on the
furface. It is finely flocked with plants, whofe arrangement and cultivation do much
credit to my worthy friend Dr. Hope, profeffor of botany, who planned and executed
the whole. It was begun in 1 764, being founded by the munificence of His prefent
JMajelly, who granted fifteen hundred pounds for that purpofe.

During this week's flay at Edinl urgh, the prices of provifions were as follow :

Beef, fromfd. to 3'd. j Mutton, from 4d. to 3id. j Veal, from fd. to 3d.; Lamb,

cid. ; Bacon, 7d. ; Butter, in fumrn r, 8d. in winter, rs. ; Pigeons, per dozen, from

8d. to 5s. ; Chickens, per pair, 8d. to is. ; A fowl, is. 2d. ; Green goofe, 3s. ; Fat

^r , goofe, 2s. 6d. ; Large turkey, 4!>. or 5s. ; Fig, 2s. ; Coals, 5d. or 6d. per hundred

delivered.

Many fine excurfions mny be made at a fmall diflance from this city. Leith, a large
t'v.vn, about two miles north, lies on the Firth, is a fiourifhing place, and the port of
Edinburgh. Tlie town is dirty and ill built, and chiefly inhabited by failors j but the

* L'Adolefccnce <le Jaques du Fouilloux, 88.

f The old !;otaiiic garden lies tu tlic call of the new bridge : an account of it is to be fcen in the

jMufcum i3al.ouriaa\iin.

pier

to the

"*»

PENNAKT 8 TOUR IN 8C0TLANJ.

pier i» very fine, and is a much frequented walic. The races were at this timt i rht
fands, near low-water mark : confidcring their vicinity to a great city and pi
country, the company was far from numerous ; a proof that diflipation has no(
rally infe£led the manners of the North Britons.

Craigmiliar caftle is feated on a rocky eminence, about two miles fouth of Edin-
burgh ; is fquare, and has towers at each corner. Some few apartments are yit in-
habited ; but the reft of this great pile is in ruins. Mary Stuart Ibmetimes made this
place hcrrelidcncc.

Nowbottle, the feat of the Marquif:^ of Lothian, is a pleafant ride of a few milct
from the capital. It was once a Ciflcrcian abbey, founded by David I. in 1 140 j but,
in i5(;i, was ereflediato a lordHiip, in favour of Sir Mark Kcr, fon of Sir Walter Ker,
of Cefsfurd. The lioull- lies in a warm bottom, and, like moft other of the houfes of
the Scotch nobility, refcmblcs a French chateau, by having a village or little paltry towa
adjacent. The fituation is very favourable to trees, as appears by the vaft fize of thofe
near the houfe } and I was informed, that fruit ripens here within ten days as early
as at Chclfca.

The Marquifs poffelTes a moft valuable colledlion of portraits, many of them very fine,
and almoft all very inftrudive. A large half-length of Henry Darnly reprefents him
tall, aukward and gauky, with a ftupid, infipid countenance; moft likely drawn after
he had loft by intemperance and debauchery, thofe charms which captivatsd the heart
of the amorous Mary.

A head of her mother, Marie de Guife j not lefs beautiful than her daughter.

A head of Madame Monpenfier, and of fevcral other illuftrious perfons, who
graced the court of Lewis XIIL

Prince Rupert and Prince Maurice, in one piece.

Some fmall portraits, ftudies of Vandyck ; among which is one of William Earl of
Pembroke, of whom Lord Clarendon gives fo advantageous a charader.

A beautiful half-length of Henrietta, Queen of Charles L Her charms almoft apo-
logize for the compliances of the uxorious monarch.

His daughter, the Dutchcfs of Orleans.

The wife of Philip the Bold, infcribcd Marga Mala, Lodo Male.

Head of Robert Car, Earl of Somerfct ; the countenance effeminate, fmall features^
light flaxen or ycllowifh hair, and a very fmall beard : is an original of that worthlcfs
favourite, and proves that the figure given as his among the illuftrious heads is errone-
ous, the lalV being rcprefcnted as a robuft black man. A print I have of him by
Simon Pafs is authentic : the plate is of odlavo fize, reprefents him in hair curled to the
top ; and in his robes, with the George pendent.

Hisfiuhcr, Sir Robert Car of Fernihurft.

An Earl of Somcrfet ; of whom I could get no account ; handfome j with long light
hair inclining to yellow : a head.

A full liuji^th of Jame-s I. by Jamefon. Another of Charles L when young, in rich
armoui, I. hick and gold : a capital piece.

Lady Tufton ; a fine half length.

Earl Morton, regent : half-length ; a yellow beard.

A liea.l of General Ruthven, Sir Patrick Ruthven, a favourite of Guftavus Adol-
phus ; knighted in his majelly's tent in prefence of the whole army at Darfaw in
Prullia, on rlie 2 ^d of yeptenibci* 1617. As potent in the campaigns of Bacchus as of
Mars, and lerviceable to his great mifterin both. He vanquiftied his enemies in the
field ; and by the ftrenjjth ot his head, and goodnefs of underftanding, could in con-

voL. 111. r vivial

»ENNANT*» TOUR IN ICOTLANO.

vivi.il hours cxtrafl from the minirtors of unfriendly powers, fecrpts of the firft import-
anco. Ho palVoJ afterwarils into the frrvioe of Charks 1. and bi'haved with the fpirit
atul-intogrity that procuml liiin the honours of Farl of Forth in Scotland, and uftcr.
wards Karl of IJrcntford in Kngl.uid. 1 le died in a very advanced age in 1651.

Two very curious half-ienj^ths on wood : one of a man with a long forked black
beard ; his jacket llafhcd down in narrow llripes from top to bottom, and the ftripca
loofe : the other with a black full beard ; the fame fort of lli ipe;;, but drawn tighl by
a girdle.

The Doi^p of Venice, by Titian.

Three by Morillio ; boys and girls in low life.

A remarkable fine piece of our three lird cirtum-navigators, Drake, Hawkins^ and
Caiulifli ; half-length.

The hends of Mark Karl of Lothian, and his lady, by Sir Antonio More.

Mark Ker, prior of Newbottle, who, at the reformation, complied with the times,
and got the eflate of the abbey.

In the woods adjacent to this feat arc fome fubterrancous apartments and paflages cut
out of the live rock: they feeni to have been excavated by the ancient inhabitants of
the country, either as receptacles for their provifions, or a retreat for thenifelves ami
families in time of war, in the fame manner, as Tacitus relates, was cudoniary with the
old Germans •.

Two or three miles diftant from Newbottle is Dalkeith, a fmall town, adjoining to
Dalkeith Houfe, the feat of the Duke of Duccleugh : originally the property of the
DouglaflTcs ; and, when in form of a caflle, of great Itrength ; and during the time of
the regent Klorton's retreat, ilyled the Lion's Den.

The portraits at Dalkeith are numerous, and fome good ; among others, the

Firfl Duke of Richmond .ind his Dutchefs.

The Dutchefs of Cleveland.

Coimtefs of Bucclcugh, mother to the Dutchefs of Monmouth, and Lady Eglingtort,
her fifter.

The Dutchefs and her two fons : the Dutchefs of York ; her hand remarkably fine:
the Dutchels of Lenox.

Mrs. Lucy Waters, mother of the Duke of Monmouth, with his pidurc in her
hand.

Dutchefs of Cleveland and her fon, an infant ; fhe in chara£lcr of a Madonna :
fine.

The Duke of Monmouth, in charafter of a young St. John.

Lord Strafford and his fecretary ; a fmall ftudy of Vandyck.

Henry VIIL ind Queen Catherine, with the divorce in her hand ; two fmall pieces
by Holbein. Anna Bullen, by the fame, dreflfed in a black gown, large yellow netted
flcevcs, in a black cap, peaked behind.

Lady Jane Gray, with long liair, black and very thick ; not handfome ; but the
virtues and the intellectual perfections of that fufl'ering innocent, more than fupplicd the
ablence of perfonal charms.

A large ipirited picture of the Duke of Monmouth on horfeback. The fame in ar-
mour. All his pidurrs have a handfome likenefs of his father.

• Solent et fiibt.-rraneos fpecus aperlrc, cofque multo infuper limo onerant, fufTugium hiem!, et reccp-
laculum friigibus, quia rigorem fu'gorum ejufmodi lucis molliuiit : et fi qiiandu hodii advciiit, aperta
populatur, abdita autcm ct dcfoOa, aut ignoiaulur, aut CO ipfu falluQt, quod quxrcixla func. De Moribua
Gcrmanurum, i;, 16.

12 Dutchefs

PKMNAKT « TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Dutchcfs of Richmond, with a bow in her hand, by Sir Pctor Lcly.
A fine hoail of the late Duke of Ormoud.
A beautiful head of N

Stuart ; the face fliarp, thiu and young ; yet has a like-
ijcfs to fome others of her pfdlurcs, done before misfortunes had altered her ; Iicr drefs
a ftrait gown, open at the top and reaching to her ears, a fniall c;ip, and fniall nifT,
with a red rofe in her hand.

In this palace is a room entirely fumifliod by Charles II. on occafion of the nurri-
age of Me I. mouth, with the heirels of thi-iiourc.

At Smeton, another feat of the Duke of Uucclough, a mile diftant from th.- firft, is
a fine half-length of General Monk looking over his flioulder, with his back towards
you ; he refided long at Dalkeith, when he commanded in Scotland.

Nell Gwinnc loofely attired.

A fine marriage of St. Catherine, by Vandyck.

July 24. Left Edinburgh, and paflcd beneath the caftle, whofe height and ftrength,
in my then fituation, appeared to gre&t advantage. The country I pafled through was
well cultivated, the fields large, but moftly inclofed with (lone walls ; for hedges are not
yet become univcrfal in this part of the kingdom : it is not a century fmce they were
known here. Reach the

South-ferry, a fmall village on the banks of the Firth, which fuddenly is contrafted
to the breadth of two miles by the jutting out of the land on the north fliorc ; but al-
niofl inftantly widens towards the weft into a fine and extenfive bay. The profpcdt on
each fide is very beautiful ; a rich country, frequently diverfified with towns, villages,
caftles, and gentlemen's feats •• There is befide a vaft view up and down the Firth,
from its extremity, not remote from Stirling, to its mouth near May ifle ; in all, about
fixty miles. To particularize the objefts of this rich view : from the middle of the
paflagc are feen the coafts of Lothian and Fife ; the ifles of Garvie and Inch-Colm ; the
town of Dumfermline ; fouth and north Queen's- ferries ; and Burrowftonefs fmoking
at a diftance from its numerous fatt-pans and fire-engines. On the fouth fide are Hope*
ton-houfe, Dundafs caftle, and many other gentlemen's feats ; with Blacknefs callle.
On the north fide, Rofythe caftle, Dunibryflel, and at a diftance, the caftle and town of
Brunt-ifland ; with the road of Leith, often filled with Ihips, and a magnificent diftant
view of the caftle of Edinburgh on the fouth.

This ferry is alfo called Queen's-ferry, being the paflage much ufed f by Margaret,
queen to Malcolm III., and fifter to Edgar Etheling, her refidence being at Dumferm-
line. Crofs over in an excellent boat; obferve midway the little ifle called In(h-Garvey,
with the ruin of a finall caftle. An arftic gull flew near the boat, purfued by other
gulls, as birds of prey are : this is the fpecies that pcrfecutes and purfues the lefler kinds,
till they mute through fear, when it catches up their excrements ere they reach the
water : the boatmen, on th.it account, ftyled it the dirty auh'n.

Landed in the Ihire of Fife \, at North-ferry, near which are the great granite quar-
ries, which help to fupply the ftreets of London with paving ftones ; many fliips then
waiting near in order to take their lading. The granite lies in great perpendicular
ftacks ; above which is a reddifli earth filled with friable micaceous nodules. The gra-
nite itfelf is very hard, and is all blafted with gun-powder: the cutting into fliape tor

• Such as Rofyihe caftle, Dumfermline town, LordMurray'i, Lord Hopetouii's, Captain Dundafs's.
t Or, a« others fay, becauft flie, her brother and filler, firft landed tlicic, after their tfcapc from Wil-
liam the Conqueror,
t Part of the ancient Calcdenia.

F 2

paving

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

paving cofls two (hillings and eight-pence per ton, ;\nd tlie freight to London fovtii
fliillings.

The country, as far as Kinrofs, is very fine, confiliing of gentle rifings ; much corn,
efpecially bear; but few trees, except abi.uta gentleman's feat culled Blair, where there
are great and llourilhing plantations. Near the road are the bit collieries in Scotland,
except the inconfiderable works in the county of Sutherland.

Kinrofs is a fiiiall town, feated in a large plain, bouniied by tnouiitains ; tl:' houfes
and trees are fo intermixed, as to give it an agreeable appearance. It has iomc nianu-
fadurcs of linen and cutlery ware. At this lime was a meeting of juiUces, on a lingu-
lar occafion : a vagrant had been, not long before, ordered to be whipped ; but fucli
was the point of honour among the conmiun peojile, that no one could be perfuaded to
go to Perth for the executioner, who lived there : to prefs, I may fay, two men for
that fervice was the caufe of the meeting ; fo Mr. Bolwell may rejoice to find the nq-
tion of honour prevail in as exalted a degree among his own countrymen, as among the
virtuous Corficans •.

Not far from the town is the houfc of Kinrofs, built by the famous architedl Sir Wil-
liam Bruce, for hib own refidcnce, and was the firfl; good houfe of regular architefture
in North Britain. It is a large, elegant, but plain building : the hall is fifty-two feet
long ; the grounds about it well planted , the fine lake adjacent j fo that it is capable
of being made as delightful a fpot as any in North Britain.

Loch-Leven, a magnificent piece of water, very broad, but irregularly indented, is
about twelve miles in circumference, and its greateft depth about twenty four fathotns :
is finely bounded by mountains on one fide ; on the other by the plain of Kinrofs; and
prettily embelliflied with feveral groves, moft foitunately difpofed. Some iflands are
difpcrfcd in this great expanfe of water ; one of which is large enough to feed feveral
head of cattle : but the moft remarkable is that diftinguiflied by the captivity of Mary
Stuart, which ftands almoll in the midillo of the lake. The cafUe flill remains ; con-
iifts of a fquare tower, a unall yard with two round towers, a chapel, and the ruins of
a building where, it is faid, the unfortunate princefs was lodged. In the fquare tower
is a dungeon, with a vaulted room above, over which had been three other (lories.
Some trees arc yet remaining on this little fpot ; probably coeval with Mary, under
whofe (hade (he may have f.it, expecting lur efcape at length efteded by the enamoured
, Douglas t. This callle had before been a royal refidcnce, but not for captive monarchs ;
having been granted from the crown by Robert 111. to Douglas, laird of Loch-Leven.

This caflle underwent a fieje in the year 1335, and the method attempted to reduce
it was of the mod fingular kind. John of SterUng, with his army of Anglicifed Scots,
fat down before it ; but finding from the fituation that it was impoflible to fucceed in
the common forms, bethought of this expedient. lie (lopped up the water of Leven,
at its dilchargc from the lake, witli a great dam, with lloncs, and every thing that would
obflrud its courfe, hoping by that means to rail'e tiie waters fo high as to drown the
whole garrifon. But the watchiul governor, Alan de Vipont, took an opportunity of
Tallying out in boats when the befiegors were oil" their guard, being intoxicated with
celebrating St. George's day, and piercing the dam, rcleafed the pent-up waters, and
formed a moft dtRruclive deluge on all the plain below ; (Irutk a panic intg the enc-

• Hift. Cotfica, p. 28c, of the firft cilliion.

f Hillorians ililFtr in iil"j)tt\ to tlic caiiL that influenced him to alTifl in his fovcicigii't efcape : fome

ttlrihuie it ts liis :uaiice, and think he w.i« bribtd with jcwtli, rtfervcd by Mary; othcm, that he was

touched Ly a mure }{inirouB paiaGii ; iht lall opinion 15 the molt natural, confidciing the cha!:M8 of the
„ ._ I .k. 1. ..f i,„ .1 i: "

I B my's

^u:i,u, aai the youth of her dilivcrcr.

plnnant's tour m Scotland.

oven

; fome

he was

I of the

my's antiy> P"' t'l^m to flight, and returned to his caftle laden with the fpoils of the

St. Serf's ifle is noted for luivi'.'^ been granted by Brudo, laft king of the Pifts, to
St. Servan and the Cuklocs ; a kind of pYicih among the firll Chriftians of North Bri-
tain who led a fort of nionadif lift! in cells, and tor a confiderable time prelerved a
pure and uncorriipt relip.ion : at iengtii, in the reien of David I. were iupprelfcd in fa-
vour of the church of Rome. 'I'he priory of Port-moak was on this ifle, of which
fome I'lnall rcMnains yet ex ill.

The fifli of this I ike are pike, fr.iall perch, fine eels, and mofl excellent trouts, the
bed and the redded 1 ever f.iw ; the larged about fix pounds in weight. The fifhermen
cave me an account of a fpecies they called the gaily trout, which are only caught from
Oftobcr to January, are fplit, falted, and dried, for v\ inter provifion : by the deicription,
they certainly wore our char, only of a larger fize than any we have in England or
Wales, fome being two feet and a half long. The birds that breed on the ifles are her-
ring gulls, pewit gulls, and great terns, called here piftarnes.

Lay at a good inn, a fingle houfe, about half a mile north of Kinrofs.

July 25. Made an excurfion about feven miles weft, to fee the Rumbling Brig at
Glen-Devon, in the parifli of Muchart, a bridge of one arch, flung over a chafm worn
by the river Devon, about eighty feet deep, very narrow, and horrible to look down j
the bottom in many parts is covered with fragments ; in others the waters are vifible,
gufliin:? between the (tones with great violence : the fides in many places projeft, and
alnioft lock in each other ; trees flioot out in various fpots, and contribute to increafe
the gloom of the glen, while the ear is filled with the cawing of daws, the cooing of
wood-pigeons, and the impetuous noife of the waters.

A mile lower down is the Cawdron Lin. Here the river, after a fhort fall, drops on
rocks hollowed in a Itrange manner into large and deep cylindric cavities, open on
one fide, or formed into great circular cavities, like cauldrons fj fro na whence the
name of the place. One in particular has the appearance of a vail brewing-veflel ; and
the water, by its great agitation, has acquired a yellow fcum, exaftly refembling the
yelly working of malt liquor. Juft beneath this the water darts down about thirty feet
m form of a great white fticet : the rocks below widen confiderably, and their clifty
fides are fringed with wood. Beyond is a view of a fine meadowy vale, and the diltant
mountains near Stirling.

Two miles north is Caftle Campbel. featcd on a fteep peninfulated rock between vaC
mountains, having to the fouth a boundlefs view through a deep glen ftiagged with
brufliwood ; for the forofts that once covered the country are now entirely deftroved.
Formerly, from its darkfome fituation, this pile was called the callle of Gloom ; and
all the names ot the adjacent places werefuitablc : it was featcd in the parilh of Dolor,
was bounded by the glens of Care, and waflied by the birns oi Sorrow. The lordfhip was
purchafed by the (irit Karl of Argyle. This caftle, with the whole territory belonging
to the whole family of Argyle, underwent all the calamities of civil war in 1645 5 ^"^
its rival, the Marquis of Montrofe, carried fire and fword through the whole ellate.
The caftle was ruined, and its magnificent reliques exift, as a monutneat of the horror
of tne times. No wonder then that the marquis experienced lb woeful and ignominious
a tate, when he fell into the power of lb exai'perated a chieftain.

• SIbbald's Hill, of Fife ami Kinrofj, lo;^.

f- III Sweikn, iiiid the iiorili of Germany, fuch holes ai thefc are calUd Giants I'ctS. Kalm'sVoy. I2r.
iwuIPh.Tiaiif. abiiag. V. i6j.

Rcturnetl

lii

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

Koturncd to my inn along the foot of the Ochil hills, whofe fides were covered with
a line verdure, and fed great numbers of cattle and ftieep. The country below full of
oats, and in a very improving ftate : the houfcs of the common people decent, bul: nioftly
covered with fods ; fome were covered both with ftraw and fod. The inhabitants ex-
tremely civil, and never failed offering brandy or whey, when I ftopt to make inquiries
at any of their houfcs.

In the afternoon croffed a branch of the fame hills, which yielded plenty of oats ;
dcfcendcd into Strath-Earn, a beautiful vale, about thirty miles in length, full of rich
meadows and corn-fields, divided by the river Earn, which ferpentincs finely through
the middle, falHng into the Tay, of which there is a fight at the eaft end of the vale. It
is prettily divcrfified with groves of trees and gentlemen's houfes ; among which, to-
vards the wed end, is Caftle Drummond, the forfeited feat of the Earl of Perth.

Diipplin •, the refidence of the Earl of Kinnoul, feated on the north fide of the vale,
on the edge of a deep glen. Only a fingle tower remains of the old caftle, the reft
being modernized. The fouth front commands a pleafing view of the vale : behind
are plantations extending feveral miles in length ; all flourifh greatly, except thofe of
afli. I remarked in the woods fome very large chefnuts, horfe-chefnuts, fpruce and
filver firs, cedar and arbor vita:. Broad-leaved laburnum thrives in this country greatly,
grows to a great fize, and the wood is ufed in fineering.

Fruits fucceed here very indifferently ; even nonpareils require a wall : grapes, figs,
and late peaches, will not ripen : the winters begin early, and end late, and are attended
with very high winds. I was informed that labour is dear here, notwithftanding it is
only eight-pence a day ; the common people not being yet got into a method of work-
ing, fo do very little for their wages. Notwithftanding this, improvements are carried
on in thcfe parts with great fpirit both in planting and in agriculture. Lord Kinnoul
planted laft year not fewer than eighty thoufand trees, befides Scotch firs ; fo provides
future forefls for the benefit of his fucceffors, and the embelliiliment of his country.
In refpeft to agriculture, there are difficulties to ftruggle with, for the country is with-
out either coal or lime-ftone ; fo that the lime is brought from the eftate of the Earl of
Klgin, near Dumfermline, who, I was told, drew aconfiderable revenue from the kilns.

In Dupplin are fome very good pidures ; a remarkable one of Luther, Buccr, and
Catherine the nun, in the charafters of muficians, by Giorgiani di Cartel franco.

A fine head of a fecular prieft, by Titian. St. Nicholas blefiing three children. Two
of cattle, by Rofa di TivoH. A head of Spenfcr. Rubens's head, by himfelf. A fine*
head of Butler, by Sir Peter Lcly. Mrs. Tofts, in the charaQcr of St. Catherine, by
Sir Godfrey Knellcr. Sir George Haye, of Maginnis, in armour, 1 640; done at Rome,
by L. Ferdinand. Ilaye, Earl of Carlidc, in Charles I.'s time, young and very hand-
fome. 1 he fecond Earl of Kinnoul, by Vanilyck. Chancellor Haye, by Mytens. A
good portrait of lord treafurcr Oxford, by Richardfon ; and a beautiful miniature of
Sir John Eanily.

But the moit remarkable is a head of the celebrated Countcfs of Defmond, whom the
apologifls for the ufurper Richard III. bring in as an evidence againft the received opi-
nion of his deformity : (he was daughter of the Fitzg^i aids of Drumana f, in the county
of Vvateribrd, and married, in the reign of Edward IV., James fourteenth Earl of Def-
inonJ : was in England in the fame reign, and danced at court with his brother Richard,

• Nt'-^r thi,. plan,- \vf:< fonjrln the battle of Dupplin, i^%7, between th- F-ngliOi, tiiuler the command of
tali jl, BMil tilt .Scots. Tlic lall ucit dtftated, and fucli u luniiber oftlie name of liny flaiii, iliat tlic I'ajiiily
woulil have bcin ( xtii.c'l, h.id not fcvtril of ihiir wivee been ktt at home pit^jnaiit.

f Smith's Hilt, ol C'oik, ii 36.

then

Pr.NN^INl's TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

then Duke of Gloucefler. She was then a widow, for Sir Walter R aleigh fays fhe held
her jointure from all the Earls of IX'fmond fiiice that time *. She lived to the age of
fome years above a hundred and forty, and died in the reign of James 1. It appears
that fhe retained her full vigour in a very advanced time of life ; for the ruin of the
houfe of Ucfiiiond reduced her to poverty, and obliged her to take a journey from
Briftol to London, to Iblicit relief from the court, at a time fhe was above a hundred
and forty f. She alfo twice or thrice renewed her teeth ; for Lord Bacon aflures us,
in his Hilt, of Life and Death, ter per vices dentiife', and in his Natural Hiftory men-
tions that flie did dentire twice or thrice, carting her old teeth, and others coming in
their place \.

July 27. Afcended the hill of Moncrief ; theprofpeft from thence is the glory of Scot-
land, and well merits the eulogia given it for the variety and richnefs of its views. On the
fouth and weft appear Strath-Earn, embelliflied with the feats of Lord Kinnoul, Lord
Rollo, and of feveral other gentlemen ; the Carfe, or rich plain of Gowrie ; Stormont
hills and the hill of Kinnoul, whofe vaft cliff is remarkable for its beautiful pebbles.
The meanders of the Earn, which winds more than any river I at this time had feen,
are moft enlivening additions to the fcene. The laft turn it takes forms a fine penin-
fula prettily planted ; and juft beyond it joins the Tay §, whofeaeftuary lies full in view,
the fea doling the profpedl on this fide.

T > the north lies the town of Perth, with a view of part of its magnificent bridge ;
which, with the fine woods called Perth Parks, the vaft plain of Strath-Tay, the winding
of that noble river, its iflands, and the grand boundary formed by the diftant highlands,
finifh this matchlefs fcene. The inhabitants of Perth are far from being blind to the
beauties of their river ; for with fingular pleafure they relate the tradition of the Ro-
man army, when it came in fight of the Tay, burfting into the exclamation of Ecce
Tiberim.

On approaching the town are fome pretty walks handfomely planted, and at a fmall
diftance, the remains of fome works of Cromwell's, called Oliver's Mount.

Perth is large, and in general well-built ; two of the flreets are remarkably fine ; in
fome of the lefTer are yet a few wooden houfes in the old ftyle ; but as they decay, the
magiftrates prohibit the rebuilding them in the old way. There is but one parifh,
which has three churches, befides meetings for feparatifts, who are very numerous.
One church, which belonged to a monaftery, is very ancient : not a veflige of the laft is
now to be feen ; for the difciples of that rough apoftle Knox made a general defolaticwi
of every edifice that had given fhelter to the worlhippers of the church of Rome j it
being one of his maxims to pull down the nefts, and then the rooks would fly away.

The flourifhing ftaic '••f Perth is owing to two accidents : the firft, that of numbers
of Cromwell's wounded officers and foldiers chufing to refide here, after he left the
kingdom, who introduced a fpirit of induftry among the people ; the other caufe was
the long continuance of the Earl of Mar's army here in 1715, which occafioned vaft
funis of money being fpent in the place. But this town, as well as all Scotland, dates
its profperity from the year 1745, the government of this part of Great Britain having
never been fettled till a little after that time. The rebellion was a difordcr violent iii
its operation, but falutary in its eftefts.

then

* Raleigh's Hift. of the World. Book J. ch. 5. <" a. 5.

t'Sir W. Temple's Eflay on Health and Long Lite. Vide his Works, folio ed. i. 276.

X Cent. viii. fcC^. 755. § Taus, Taciti Vit. Agr.

The

I i ■

\ ^'

PENNANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

The trade of Perth is confiderable. It exports annually one hundred and fifty tluni-
fand pounds worth of linen to different places ; from twenty-four to thirty thuulaiid
bolls of wheat and barley to London and F.dinluirgli, and about twelve or fourteen
thoufand pounds worth of cured falmon. That fifli is taken there in vaft abundanct-;
three thoufand have been caught in one morninj^, weighing one with another fixtccn
pounds; the whole capture, forty-eight thoufand pounds. The fiflicry begins at
St. Andrew's day, and ends Auguft 26th, old ftyle. The rents of the fiflicries amount
to three thoufand pounds per annum.

I was informed that fmelts come up this river in May and June.

There has been in thefe parts a very great fifliery of pearl got out of the frefli-watcr
mufc'es. From the year 1761 to 1764, io,goo1. wor'h were fent to London, and fo'd
from I OS. to il. 16s. per ounce. I was told that a pearl had been takon there thut
weighed 33 grains. But this fidiery is at prefent exhauftcd, from the avarice of the
undertakers : it once extended as far as Loch-Tay.

Gowrie-houfe is (hewn to all ftrangers ; formerly the property and refidence of the
Earl of Gowrie, whole tragical end and myftcrious confpiracy (if coiifpiracy there was)
are ftiil frefh in the minds of the people of Perth. At prefent the houl'e is occupied by
fome companies of artillery. I was Ihewn the flaircafe where the unhappy nobleman
was killed, the window the frighted monarch James roared out of, and that he efcapcd
through, when he was faved fiom the fury of the populace, by baily Roy, a friend of
Cowrie's, who was extremely beloved in the town.

From the little traditions preferved in the place, it feems as if Gowrie had not the
leaft intent of murdering the king : on the day his majeity came to Perth, the earl was
engaged to a wedding-dinner whh the dean of guild : when the account of thf^ king's
defign reached him he changed colour, on being taken fo unprovided ; but the dean
forced him to accept the nuptial foall, which was fent over to the eari's Iini;fj.

When the king fled, he palfed by the feat of Sir William Moncricf, near j,.irn-bridp;e,
who happening to be walking out at that tinu', heard from the mouth oi his terrified
niajelty the whole relation ; but the knight found it fo marvellous and fo disjointed, as
plainly to tell the king, " that if it was a true flory, it was a very flninge one."

Gowrie was a rnoft accompliflied gentleman. After he had finilhed his (Indies, he
held the profelfor of philofophy's chair for two years in one of the Italian univerfities.

Crofs the Tay on a temporary bridge ; the ilone bridge, which is to conhlt of nine
arches, being at this time unfiniihed : the largeft areii is feventy-hx feet wide; when
complete, it promiles to be a moU magnificent ArucUin\ 'Ihe river here is very vio-
lent, and admits of fcarce any navigation above ; but (hips of one hundred and twenty
tons burthen come up as high as the town ; and if ilat-boitomed, of even two hundred
tons.

Scone lies about a mile and ha'f higher up, on the eaft bank of the river. Here was
once iiii abbty of great antiquity*, which was burnt by the reforming zralois of Dundee.
The pve'ent palace was begun by Knil Gowrie; but, on liis death, being erantetl bv
James VI. to his favourite Sir David Murray of Cjofjwtrie, was completed by him ;
who, in gratitude to the King, has, in fevcral parts of the houfe put up the royal arms.
The houfe is built r( und two courts; the d'ning-room is large and handfome, has an
ancient but magnillctnt chimney-piece, tho king's arn)s, with this motto.

Nobis )izc invi^a niiftruiu centum icx proavi.

I I.;

Founded by Alexindcr I. 1 1 14, fois canon rcgiil.r of St. Auguftin.

Beneath

MMMANT's tour 1M SCOTtANl).

fifty tlioii-
y tlioulaiid
)r fourteen
bund.ince ;
icr fixtccn

begiius at
ics amount

frcHi-watcr
n, and fold
there thiit
rice of the

nee of the
there was)
ccupied by
nobleinan
le efcaped
I friend of

id not the
e ^ari was
thf> king's
t the dean

rn-brid,c[e,

s terrified

jointed, as
>>

Indies, he

crfities.
iil of nine
Je; when

very vio-
iid twenty
> hundred

Hero w»«;
F Dundee,
rantti! bv
by him ;
yai arms,
e, has an

Beneath are the Murray arms. In the drawing-room is fome good old tapeftry, with
an excellent figure of Mercury. In a fmall bed-chamber is a medley fcripture-piece in
needle-work, with a border of animals, pretty well done ; the work of Mary Stuart,
during her confinement in Loch-Leven caftle : but the houfe in general is in a man-
ner unfurnifhcd.

The gallery is about a hundred and fifty-five feet long ; the top arched, divided into
compartments, filled with paintings, in water-colours, of different forts of -huntings j
and that Nimrod, James VI. and his train, appear in every piece.

Till the deftruftion of the abby, the Kings of Scotland were crowned here, fitting in
the famous wooden chair, which Edward I. tranfported to Weftminfter Abby, inuch
to the mortificacion of the Scots, who efteemed it as their palladium. Charles II. be-
fore the battle of Worcefter, was crowned in the prefent chapel. The old Pretender
refided at Scone for a confiderable time in 171 5, and his fon made it a vifit in 1745.

Re-palfed the Tay at Bullion's boat ; vifited the field of Loncarty, celebrated for the
great victory • obtained by the Scots over the Danes, by nieans of the gallant peafant
Hay, and his two fons, who, with no other weapons than the yokes which they fnatched
from their oxen then at plough, firfl put a flop to the flight of their countrymen, and
afterwards led them on to conqueft. The noble families of Hay defcend from this
rullic hero, and, in memory of the aftion, bear for their arms the inftrument of their
victory, with the allufive motto of Subjugo. There are on the fpot feveral tumuli, in
which are frequently found bones depofited in loofe ftones, difpofed in form of a coffin.
Not remote is a fpot which fupplied me with far more agreeable ideas ; a tradt of
ground, which in 1732 was a mere bog, but now converted into good meadows, and
about fifty acres covered with linen ; feveral other parts with building, and all the ap-
paratus of the linen manufafture, extremely curious and worth feeing, carried on by
the induftrious family of the Sandimans : and in the bleachery are annually whitened
four hundred thoufancl yards of linen, the manufafture of this family, and of Mr.
Marfliall and others from Perth.

The country is good, full of barley, oats, and flax in abundance ; but, after a few
miles travelling, is fucceeded by a black heath. Ride through a beautiful plantation
of pines, and, after defcending an eafy flope, the plain beneath iuddenly contrads itfelf
into a narrow glen. The profpeft before me firongly marked the entrance into the
Highlands, the hills .that bounded it on eacli fide being lofty and rade On the left
was Bimam wood, which feems never to hav recovered the march which its anceftons
made to Dunfinane : I was (hewn at a great d "^ance a high ridge of hills, where fome
remains of that famous fortrefs (Macbeth's cali ) are faid yet to exift.

The pafs into the Highlands is awfully magnii: ent; high, craggy, and often naked
mountains prefent themfelves to view, approach very near each other, and in many
parts are fringed with wood, overhanging and darkening the Tay, that rolls with great
rapidity beneath. After fome advance in this hollow, a moll beautiful knowl, covered
with pines, appears full in view ; and foon alter the town of Dunkeld, feated under
and environed by crags, partly naked, partly wooded, with fummits of a vaft height.
Lay at Inver t, a good inn on the well fide of the river.

July 28. Crofled it in a boat, attended by a tame fwan, which was perpetually foH-
citiiig our favors, by putting its neck over the fides of the ferry-boat. Land in the

Beneath

* Tn the time of Kenneth, who began his reign 976.

+ Iiu'tr. a place where a Icffer river runs into a greater ; or a river into a lake or fe.i, as Abner fignifici
in the 'Vitifh.

VOL. Ill

Duke

4«

pennant's tour in »cotlan».

1 '^l

J)uke of Athol'sjrardens, which are extremely pleafing, washed by the river, and com-
manding from dififercnt parts of the walks, the nioft beautiful and pidurefque views of
wild and gloomy nature that can be conceived. Trees of all kinds grow here ex-
tremely well ; and even fo fouthern a flirub as Portugal laurel flourifhos greatly. In
the garden are the ruins of the cathedral, once a magnificent edifice, as appears by
the beautiful round pillars ftill (landing ; but the choir is prtferved, and at prefcnt uled
Bs a church. In the burial-place of the family is a large monument of the Marquis of
Athol, hung with the arms of the numerous connections of the family.

On the other fide of the river is a pleafing walk along the banks of the water of
Bran *, a great and rapid torrent, full of immenfe ftones. On a rock at the end of the
valk, is a neat building, impending over a moft horrible chafm, into which the river
precipitates itfelfwith great noifeand fury from a confiderable height. The windows
of the pavilion are formed of painted glafs j fome of the panes are red, which makes
the water refemble a fiery cataradt. About a mile further is another, Rumbling Brig,
like, but inferior in grandeur, to that near Kiiirofs.

The town of Dunkeld is i'niall, and has a finall linen manufafture. Much company
reforts here in the fummer months, for the benefit of drinking goats' milk and wney :
I was informed here, that thofe animals will eat ferpents; as it is well known that
(lags do.

After a ride of two miles along a narrow ftrair, amidft trees, and often in fight of
lli£ Tay, was driven by rain into a fifiitrman's hut, who entertained me with an ac-
count of his bufinefs : faid he paid ten jMUiuis per ann. for the liberty of two or three
miles of the river ; fold the firft fifli of the lealon at three.pence a pound ; after that,
got three {hillings per fifh. The houfes in thefe parts began to be covered with broom,
which lafts three or four years : their infides mean, and very fcantily furnifhed ; but
the owners civil, fenfible, and of the quickeft apprehenfions.

The ftrait now widens into a vale plentiful in oats, barley and flax, and well peopled.
On the right is the jundion of the Tay and the 'I'uinel : the channels of thefe rivers
are wide, full of gravel, the mark of their devadation during floods. Due tiorth is the
road to Blair and Fort Auguftus, through the noted pafs of Killicrankie : turn to the
left ; ride oppofite to Caftle Mens:ies : reach Taymoutb, the feat of the Earl of
Breadalbane.

July 29, &c Tayipouth f lies in a vale fcarce a mile broad, very fertile, bounded
on each fide by mountains finely planted. Thofe on the fouth are covered with trees,
or with corn-fields far up their fides. The hills on the north are planted with pines
and other trees, and vaftly (ieep, and have a vcy Alpine look ; but particularly re-
femble the great flope, oppofite the Grande Chartreufe in Dauphin-*. His lordfl)ip's
policy I furrounds the houfe, which (lands in the park, p.nd is vuc of the few in which
fallow deer are feen.

The ground is in remarkable fine order, owing to his Lorddiip's afTulnity in clearing
it from (loncs, with which it was once covered. A blader was in condant employ to
blaft the great (loncs with gun-powder ; for, by reafon of their fize, there was no other
method of removing tbtm.

The Bcrceau walk is very magnificent, compofed of great trees, forming a fine
gothic arch ; and probably that fpecics of architedure owed its origin to luch vaulted

• Rivers in Scotland arc very frequently called water*.

f Its name in old maps is lialloch ; i. e. the month of the Lorh ; Bala in tht Britilli Ijnf^uage.
i Thio word here ligiiiliis irr.provemcnCl, or JcmcfiiC : whcu ufcd by a mcrch.int, or tradcfinaii, fignifiti
their wBichuufc), Ihups, and the like.

1 1 fiiadcs*

■ 24'

kknant's tour in BCOTLAD*.

fliadcs. The walk on the bank of the Tay is fifty feet wide, and two-and-twcnty hun-
circd yards long ; but is to be continued as far asthe jundion of the Tay and the Lion,
which is about as i\\i- more. Tlie firfl runs on the fides of the walk with great ra-
pidity, is clear, but not cclourlefs, for its pellucidnefs is like that of brown cryllal ; as
is the cafe with molt of the rivers in Scotland, which receive their tinge from the boijs.
'J'he i'ay has here a wooden bridge two hundred feet long, leading to a white feat on
the fide of the oppofite hill, commanding a line view up and down Strath-Tay. The
rich meadows beneath, the winding of the river, the beginning of Loch-Tay, the dif-
chargc of the river out of it, the neat village and church of Kinmore, form a moft plea-
ling and magnificent profpcd.

The view from the temple of Venus is that of the lake, with a nearer fight of the
church and village, and the dilcharge of the river. The lake is about one mile broad,
and fiheen long, bounded on each fide by lofty mountains ; makus three great bends,
which add to its beauty. Thofie on the fouth are well planted, and finely cultivated
high up ; interfpcrfed with the habitations of the Highlanders, not fingly, but in fmall
groupes, as if they ; 'vcd focicty or clanfliip : they are very fmall, mean, and without
windows or chimnies, and are the difgrace of North Britain, as its lakes and rivers are
its glory. Loch-Tay is in many places a hundred fathoms deep, and within as many
yards of the fliore, fifty four.

Till of late, this lake was fuppofed to be as incapable of freezing as Loch-Nefs,
Loch-Earn, and Loch-Each ; though Loch-Rannoch, and even Loch-FIne, an ami of
the fca, often does. But in March 1771, fo rigorous and uncommon was the cold,
that about the twentieth of that month this vaft body of water was frozen over iii one
part from fide to fide, in the fpace of a fingle night j and fo ftrong was the ice, as
greatly to damage a boat which was caught in it.

Loch-Tay abounds with pike, perch, eels, falmon, char, and trout ; of the laft,
fome have been taken that weighed above thirty pounds. Of thefe fpecies, the High-
landers abhor eels, and alio lampreys, fancying, from the form, that they are too nearly
related to lerpents.

The north fide is lefs wooded, but more cultivated. The vaft hill of Laurs, with beds
of fuow on it, through great part of the year, rifes above the reft, and the ftill loftier

common kind, which is frequent enough in the vales f : is lefs than the common hare j
its limbs more flender ; its Hefh more delicate : is very agile, and full of frolick whell
kept tame ; is fond of honey and carraway comfits, and prognofticates a ftorm by eating
its own dung : in a wild Itate does not run an end, but feeks (belter under ftones as
foon as poffible. During fummer its predominaiit colour is grey : about September it
begins to aflume a fnowy whitonefs, the altenitum of colour appearing about the neck
and rump, and becomes entirely white, except the edges and tips of the ears: ia
April it again refumcs its grey coat.

'ihe ptarmigans inhabit the very fummitsof the higheft mountains, amidft the rocks^
perching among the grey ftones, and during fummer are fcarcely to be diftinguilhed
from them, by reafou ol their colour. They feldom take long flights, but fly about
like pigeons j are filly birds, and fo tame as to fufFer a ftone to be flung at them with-
out rifing. It is not neceflary to have a dog to find them. They talle fo like a grous.

• Br Zool. I, No.

95-

t Ibid. NcMt.

« 2

MNNANT*S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

as to be fcarce diftinguiflwble. During winter, their plumage, except a few feathers
on the tail, are of a pure white, the colour of the fnow, in which they bury themfelves
in heaps, as a protection from the rigorous air.

Royfton crows, called here hooded crows, and in the Erfe, foannag, are very com-
mon, and refide here the whole year. They breed in all forts of trees, not only in the
Highlands, but even in the plains of Murray : lay fix eggs ; have a (hriller note than
the common fort ; are much more mirchicvous ; pick out the eyes of Iambs, and even
of horfes, when engaged in bogs ; but for want of other food, will eat cranberries, and
other mountain berries.

Ring ouzels breed among the hills, and in autumn defccnd in flocks to feed on the
berries of the wicken trees.

Sea eagles breed in ruined towers, but quit the country in winter. The black eagles
continue there the whole year.

It is very difficult to leave the environs of this delightful place. Before I go within
doors, mult recal to mind the fine winding walks on the fouth fide of the liills, tho
great beech fixteen feet in girth, the pifturefquc birch with its long itreaming branches,
the hermitage, the great cataraits adjacent, and the darkfome chaim beneath. I mult
enjoy over again the view of the fine reach of tlie Tay, and its union with the broad
water of the Lion : I muft fiep down to view the druidical circles of ftones ; and, lalfly,
I muft vifit Tay-bridge, and, as far as my pen can contribute, extend the hme of our
military countrymen, who, among otiier works worthy of the Romans, founded this
bridge, and left its hiftory infcribed in thefe terms :

Mirarc

Viam liaiic niilitarem

Ultra Romanos termiiios

M. pairuiim CCL. Iiac iliac

Extciifam ;

Tefquis et paludibus infiiltantcm

Per montcs ruprfqiie paiefartam

F.t ii.digiianti Tavo

Ut cerni(j inltratam ;

Opus hue irdiium fua fulcrtia,

Lt decciiiiali luilitiim uperj,

A Air. Xiix. 17^3. Pofiiit G. Wadb

Cupianim in Scotia Praefcctus.

Eccc quJiitum valcant

Regis G EUR Gil II. aufpicia.

Taymouth is a large houfe, a caflle modernized. The mofl; remarkable part of it«
furniture is the works of the famous Jamefon •, the Scotch Vandyck, an eleve of this
family. That fingular performance of his, the genealogical pidure, is in good pre-
fen'ation. The chief of the Argyle family is placed iccumbent at the foot of a
tree with a branch ; on the right is a fingle head of his elded fon. Sir Duncan
Campbell, laird of Lochou ; but on the various ramifications, are the names of his
defcendants, and along the body of the tree are nine fmall heads, in oval frames, with
the names on the margins, all done with great neatncfs : the fecond fon was the firlt of
the houfe of Breadalbane, which branched from the other about four hundred years

• Son of an arcliiteft at Aberdeen; ftudicd under Reubens, at Antwerp. Cliarlei I. fat to him, and
pteftntil him with a diatnoiid f.iijf He always drew hinjfelf with hij liat on. His pricca were 20I.
bcots, or 1 1 IS. *d. Knj{li(h, ptr !ie:id : was born in 1 j80 i died at Edinburgh, 1644. Fur a further ac.
«%ua(, confult Mr. Walpuie'i AnccdoUj gf i'ainting.

ago.

■ ■ V.

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

4'5

and

ago.

ago. In a corner is mfcribed, " The Genalogie of the houfe of Glenorquhie quhairof
is dcfcendit fundrie nobil and worthie houl'es. Jamefon faciebat 1635." Its fize is eight
feet by five. In the fame room are about twenty heads of perfons of the family ;
among others, that of a hidy, fo very ugly, that a wag, on feeing it, with lifted hands
pronounced, that fhe was f'-arfuUy and wonderfully made. There are in the fam'e
houfe, feveral heads by J .>..c'fon, but many of them unfortunately fpoiled in the re-
pairing.

In the library is a fmall book, called from the binding, the Black Book, with fome
beautiful drawings in it, on vellum, of the Breadalbane family, in water colours. In
the firil page is old Sir Duncan between two other figures, " then follow feveral chiefs
of the family, among whom is Sir Colin, Knight of Rhodes, who died 1480, aged 80,
At the end is a manufcript hillory of the family, ending, I think, in 1633.

July 30. Went to divine fcrvice at Kinmore • church, which, with the village, was
re-built, in the neatert manner by the prefent Lord Breadalbane : they fland bcauti/ully
en a fmall headland, projcfting into the lake. His lordfhip permits the inhabitants to
live rent-free, on condition they exercife fome trade, and keep their houfes clean : fo
that, by thefe terms, he not only favcs the expence of fending, on every trifling occa-
fion, to Perth or Crief, but has got fome as good workmen, in common trades, as any
in his Majefty's dominions.

The church is a remarkably neat plain building, with a very handfome tower fteeple.
The congregation was numerous, decent, attentive, ftill ; well and neatly clad, and not
a ragged or flovcnly perfon among them. There were two fcrvices, one in Englifli,.
the other in Erfe. After the firft, numbers of people, of both fexcs, went out of the
church, and, feating themfelves in the church-yard, made, in their motley habits, a gay
and pidurefque appearance. The devotion of the common people of Scotland on the
ufual days 01 worfliip, is as much to be admired, as their conduit at the facrament in
certain places is to be cenfurcd. It is celebrated but once in a year f, when there are
fometimes three thoufand communicants, and as many idle fpedators. Of the firft, as
many as poflible crowd on each fide of a long tabic, and the elements fometimes are
rudely ihoven from one to another : and in certain places, before the day is at an end,,
fighting and other indecencits enfue. It has often been made a feafon for debauchery j.
aiid to this day. Jack cannot always be perfuaded to eat his meat like a Chriftian |.

Every Sunday a colleftion is made for the fick or neccllitous ; for poor's rates are
unknown in every parilhin Scotland. Notwithftanding the common people are but jufh
rouzed from their native indolence, very few beggars are feen in North Britain : either
they are full mafters of the leiTon of being content with a very little ; or, wliat is more
probable, they are poflelTed of a fpirit that will ftrugglo hard with neceffity before it will
bend to the alking of alms.

Vifited a pretty illand in Loch-Tay, tuffed with trees, and not far from the fliore..
On it are the ruins of a priory dependent on that at Scoune ; founded in 1 122, by
Alexander the Firft ; in which were depofited the remains of his Queen Sybilla, natu-
ral daughter to Henry I. : it was founded by Alexander in order for the prayers of the
Monks for the repofe of his foul and that of his royal confort §. To this ifland the-
Campbells retreated, during the fucceffes of the Marquifs of Montrofc, where they de-
fended themfelves againft that hero, which was one caufo of his violent refentmeut
againft the whole name.

* Or the Great Hi.-a<J.

f Formerly the facrament was aJminiHeredlmt once in two years. % TaleofaTiiH.

^ As appears from a grant made by that monarch of the Jlle in Loch-T.iy, {// /i-; eic/.fa Hi fro meet
fro aft'imu SvuiLL.t Hi dcfunSg fitbr'uctur, &c.

July

' I

^ PUNMANT's tour !Nr SC0T1,AN».

July 31ft, Rode to Glen-Lion ; went by thi' fkle of the river* that gives name to It.
It has now loll its ancient title of Duio, or Bliick, given it on account of a ^n-at barilr
between the Mackays and the Macpregors ; after w tiich, the conquerors are ft id \o \y,\w
flained the waters with red, by wafhing in it tlieir bloody fwords and Ipears. CUi the
right is a rocky hill, called Shi-hallen, or the P.\ps. Kntcr Glen-Lion through a llraii
pafs: the vale is narrow, b"t fertile ; the banks of the river Uetp, rocky, and wooded ;
through which appears the rapid water of the Lion. On the norih is a round fortrefs,
on the top of a hill : to which in old times, the natives retreated on any invafion, A
h'ttle farther, on a plain, is a fmall Roman camp f, called by the Highlanders Fortiiigal,
or the fort of the Strangers : thcmfelvcs they llile Na fian, or defcendaiits of P'in^',al.
In Fortingal church-yarj are the remains of a prodigious yew-tiee, whofe ruins mca-
furcd tifty-fix feet and a half in circumference.

Saw at the houfe of Colonel Campbell of Glen-Lion, a curious walking-flalF, belong-
ing to one of his anceftors : it was iron cafcd in leather, five feet long ; at the tup a
ntat pair of extended wings, like a caduceus; but, on being lliaken, a poniard, two
feet nine inches long, darted out.

He alfo favoured me with the fight of a very ancient brotchc, which the Highlands
ufe, like the fibula of the Ronuns, to fallen their veil : it is made of filver, is n>i.rid,
with a bar crofs the middle, from whence are two tongues to fallen the folds of the
garments : one fide isftudded with pearl, or coarfe gems, in a ver) rude manner j on
the other, the names of the three kings of Cologne, Cafpar, Melchior, Baltazar ; with
the word confummatim. It was probably a confecrated brotche, and worn not only for
ufe, but as an amulet. Keyfler's account of the virtues attributed to their nanus con-
firms my opinion. He fays that they were written on flips of paper in this form, and
worn as prcfervatives againft the faUmg-ficknefs :

Gafpar fert Myrrham, Thus Melchior, Balthazar, Aurum ;

Solvitur a morbo Chrifli pietatc caduco.

Return South, and come at once in fight of Loch-Tay. The day very fine and calm,
the whole fctne was nioft beautifully repeated in the water. I mufl not omit th it on
the north fide of this lake is a mod excellent road, which runs the whole length of it,
leading to Tiendrum and Inverary, in Argylefhirc, and is the route which traveller^'
mufl take, who make what I call the petit tour { of Scotland. This whole road was
made at the fole expence of the prefent Lord Breadalbane; who, to facilitate the tra-
velling, alfo erefted thirty-two flone bridges over the torrents that rufh from the
mountains into the lake. They will find the whole country excell iu roads, partly mili-
tary, partly done by flatute labour, and much by the munificence of the great men.

I was informed, that Lord Breadalbane's eflate was fo extenfive that he could ride a
hundred miles an end on it, even as far as the 'Well Sea, Svhcre he has alfo fome iflands.
Thefe great properties are divided into diflric^s, called Ofliciaries : a ground ofHcer pre-
fides over each, and has thrct, four, or five hundred men under his care. He fupcr-
intends the duties due from each to their Lord, fuch as fetching peat, bringing coal
from Crief, &c. which they do, at their own expence, on horfes backs, travelling in

• Thit river frcfiet ; butthf Tay, wliich receive?, nev<T dofi.

■f It pofllbly might have been n).-i>le during tlie expedition of Severus, vho penetrated io thecxtremitT
of thii ifland It wai the mud northern work of the Romani of which I had any intelligence.

X Which cotnprehcndi the route I have defcribed ; adding to it, from Taymuuth, along the road, on
the fide of the lake, to Killiu, 16 miles ; from thence to Tiendrum, 20 t Glenorchie, 12 ) Inveraray, (6 ;
Lufi, on ibebaokiof Loch-Lomcnd, o; Dumbarton, 12; Glafgow, 15 t Sterling, ^i; Edinburgh, by
l:iopetoun Houfe^Jj | a trad unparalleled, for the variety and frequency of fine and magnificcut fcenery.

firings,

•.-»?,a

fKNNANT S TOUR IN BCOTLANU.

liremity

road, on
■ay, t6;
"•gh. by
:n«ry.

Irings,

firings, the tall of one horfe bein|r fafte>neil by a cord, which reaches to the head of the
next : the horfes are litt'c, and geniTally white or grey ; and as the farms are very
final!, it is common for four to k^-cp a plough between tnein, each furniftiing a horil^
and this called a horfe-gunjr.

'I'fie north fide of l.och-'l'ay is very populous ; for in fixtccn fquarc miles are feven-
teen hundred and ciii;lity fix fou's : on the other fide, above twelve hundred. The
country, within thefe thirty years, manufadurcs a great deal of thread. They Ipin with
rocks', which they do while they attend their cattle on the hills; and, at the four
fairs in the year, held at Kinmore, above fixteen hundred pounds worth of yarn is fold
out of Breadalbane only : which fliews the increafe of induftry in thefe parts, for lefs
tlian forty years ago th^re was not the lead trade in this article. The yarn is bought
by perfons who attend the fairs for that purpofe, and fell it again at Perth, Glafgow,
and other places, where it is manufattur d in'o cloth.

Much of this may be owing to the jrood fenfe and humanity of the chieftan ; but
much again is owing to the abolition of the feudal tenures, or valTalage ; for before
that was effected, (which was done by the influence of a chancellor f, whofe memory
Scotland gratefully adores for that fervice) the ftrong oppreffed the weak, the rich the
poor. Courts indeed were held, and juries called ; but juries of valTals, too dependent
and too timid to be relied on for the execution of true juftice.

Augurt I. Leave Tay mouth ; ford the lion, and ride above it through fome woods.
On the left burds out a fine cafcade, in a deep hollow, covered with trees: at a fmall
cHftanrc to the well isCallle (iarth ; or, more properly, Garbh, i. e. The rough place,
afmaUcaftle ibated like Caflle Campbell, between two deep glens. Keep afcendinga
fteep hill, but the corn country continues for a while : the fcene then chan/ijcs for a
wild,, black, and mountainous heath. Dcl'cend into Rannoch, a meadowy plain, toler-
ably fertile : the lake of the iaine name extends from call to weft ; is about eleven miles
long, and one broad ; the northern bank appears very barren : part of the fouthem
finely covered with a fored of pine and birch, the firft natural woods I had feen of pines ;
rode a good way in it, but obferved no trees of any fize, except, a birch fixteen foet in
circumference : the ground beneath the trees is covered with heath bilberries, and
dwarf arbutus, whofe glofly loaves make a pretty appearance. This place gives fhelter
to black game, and Roes. 'I'hefe animals are found from the banks of Loch-Lomoiid,
as far north as the entranccinto Caithnefs : in fumnier their hair is flioit, fmooth, glofly,
and red ; at approach of wititer grows long and hoary, and proves an excellent defence
againd the rigour of the lligh'and ;iir. The weight of a full grown roe is 6olb. The
horns of the fecond year are drait, Hender, and without any branch : in the third be-
come bifurcated : in the fourth, trifurcjited, and grow more fcabrous and dronger, in
proportion to their longevity. They feed during fumnier on grafs, and are remarkably
fond of the Rubus Saxatilis, called in the Highlands, on that account, the Roebuck
Berry. When the ground is covered with fnow, they browae on the extreme branches ■
of the pine and juniper. They bring two young at a time : the fiiwns elegantly fpotted
with white. It is extremely ditficult to rear them ; commonly eight o\.* of ten dying in
th' attempt. The ilclh of the Roe is by fomc ccounted a delicacy: to me it feeined
very dry. They keep in fmall families of five or fix.

• Tlifilr Lord give* among tliem annually a great number of fpinniiig wheels, which will fooii caufethe
difufi' of the ruck.

t Earl of Hiirdwick, who may be truly faid to hive given to the North Briton* their great charter of
liberty.

Near

\.':, '*

i -1 «*

t I ^'i ■

•'!

fCNNANT's TOl'R IM SCOTLAND*

Near thofe woods is a faw-mill, which is rented from the Government : and the f<?«
nant is oblipcil to woik 150 tons i)f timbor annu.ilty, paying cighttm Ihillin^s and fix-
pt-ncc pi-r tun. 'I'iio deal, which is thi- red Ibrt, is fold in plank to diikrcnt parts of
tho cduntry, carried on horfes backs, for the trees are now grown fo Icarco an not to
ad'nit of expoitation *.

The lake affords no other fiHi thantrouts, fniall chars, and bull trouts: thelaft, as
I was infonnod, arc fonietimes t.ikcn of the k'nj;th of four feet and a half. Many wuier
fowl breed in tlie birns or little dreams that trickle into the lake ; among others, dif-
ferent forts of grebes and divers : 1 was told of one which the inhabitants call Far.
bluiachaille, or the Herd-man's Watch-man, that makes a great nv)ife beft»re llornis,
and by their delcription fmd it to be the northern diver, lir. Zool. 4th I'!d. Vol. II.
No. 237. No rats have hitherto been obftrved in this country.

This country was once the property of Robertfon of iStruan, and was granted to an
ancellor of his, as a reward for taking Robert Graham, the ruflian who murdered
James I. It was then valued at a Imndred marks. lie was likowil'e permitted to bear
in his coat of arms a Graham bound in chains. A d.fcemiant of his, llyleJ Mac-
Robert, was the moll potent plunderer of his days, and, at the head of eight hundred
mon, lor a long time ravaged /\thol and the ailjoining ( ountrivS, in the beginning of tbt;
reign of Jan\M V. but at length was l\ii|)rized and llainf. The late Struan leemed to
inherit histurbul iir dirpoCi'ioii. He had been in the rebellion of 1715 ; had hisdlato
rellored, but in 1745 rebelling a fecund time, tlie country was burnt, and the cllate
annexed to the cn)wi. He returned a lew years iilicr, anil d;,d as lie lived, a moll,
abandoned foi ; notxrithllanding which, Ik" had a genius for poetry, and left behind hitu
a volume of elegies and other pieces, in fome of which he elegantly laments the rav-
ages of \vnranu)ng his valfals, and the lofs of his favorite fcenes, and in particular his
fountain Argentine.

'I'hc country is perfeifllv highland ; and in fpite of the intercourfe this and the
neighbouring piaris have ol late years had with the reft of the world, it lUlI retains fome
of its ancient cuftoms and fuperllitions : they dcchnc daily, but led their memory
fhould be loll, 1 (hall mention feveral that are Hill pradifed, or but very lately dilufcJ
in the tract I had palled over. Such a reconl will have this advantage, when the
follies are cxtincf, in teaching the unfhackled and enlightened mind the dill'ercnce be-
tween the pure ceremonies of religion, and the wild and anile fli^jhts of fuperflition.

The belief in fpec^res ftill cxitls ; of which I had a remai kable proof while I wns in
the county of Breadalbane. A poor vilionary, who had been working in his cabbage
garden, imagined that he was railed fuddenly into the air, and conveyed over a wall
mto an adj;icem corn field t ; that he found himlelf furrounded by a crowd of men and
women, many of whom he knew to have been dead fome years, and who appeared to
him Ikimmiag over the tops of the unbemlod com, and tuingling together like bees
going to hive : that they fpoke an utiknown language, ami wuh a hollow found : that
they vcTy roughly pulhed him to and fro ; but on his uttering the name of God, all
vaniflied but a female Iprite, who fcizing him by the Ihoulder, obliged him to promife
an aliignation, at that very hour, that da\ levennight : that he then found that his hair
was all tied in double knots, and that I), hadalmoll loft the nfo of his fpeech ; that
he kept his word with tlic fpedre, whom he loon law come iloatirig tiirough the

• S )tnc Pot Afh IS alfo made of thf Birch wood. f Buchanan, lib \i"i c. 47.

+ 'i'htle tales of fjiechal tranrpurtati.)ni> arc f.ir from being "cw ; Mr Aii'>rtj', in liis Milctllnnim, p. i j,
^i\ti twg ridiculuiis rclatiuni of almoi) tiinilar f«Cti, une in Devoolliire, ih<: utlici in tlic Shire of Murr.i}'.

5 air

! . r

'A'

PrNNAKT*JI TOUR IM ICOri-AND.

and tlic t(v
n^s and fix-
rem parts of
cc 08 not to

: the lud, ns
Many wuur
; othf.Ts, dif-
is call l''ar.
'fore llornis,
Kd. Vol. II.

[ranted to an

10 nuirdorid
itti'ii to boar
llykJ M.ic.
tjht hundrod
lining of tbi}
ni li-vincd to
ud hiscdato

11 tlu' ellate
^'(.'d, a mod*
: behind liini
nts the rav-
articular his

lis and the

retains rorne

ir memory

itely dil'ufcj

when the

Terence be-

rflition.

ile I wa3 in

lis cabbage

over a wall

of nun and

ppeared to

r like bees

oinid : th-it

of God, all

to promife

lat hishuir

eicli ; that

rough the

IhniVs, p. I «,
il Murr.iy.

air

air towards him : that h«' fpokc to her, but (ho told him at that time flic was in ton mnrh
halle to attend to him, but bid him go away, and no harm (hould bof.dl him ; and fo
theaflair rellcil when 1 1( ft the country. But it is incredible the mifehiijf thcfe Av^ri
Soiniiia did in tlu- neigliliourhood : the friends and relations of the deccal'ed, whom the
old Dreamer lud named, wire in the utnioll anxiety at finding them in fuch bad com-
pany in I lie otiier world : the almoll rxtin£l belief of the old idle tah?s began again to
cain grounii, imd the good miniiler will have many a weary dilcourie and exhortation
before he can eradicate the ablurd ideas this idle llory has revived.

In tlii:- part t)f the country the notion of witchcraft is quite lofl : it was obfcrvffd to
ceafe almolt imnv diately on the repeal of the witch ad • ; a proof what a dangerous
ijiUrument it was .n the handb of the vindictive, or of 4hc credulous.

Among the fupcrditiouB cuftoms thele are the mod lingular. A Highlander never
begins any thing of conlequence on the day ot' the week on which the third of May iaIU,
uliith he ftyles La Sheachanna na bleanagh, or the difmal day.

On the lit of May, the herdlmenof every village hold their Del-tlenf, a rural facri-
fice. 'I hey cut a Iquare trench on the ground, leaving the turf in the middle ; on that
they make a lire of wood, on which they drefs a large caudle of eggs, butter, oatmeal
and milk ; and bring befides the ingredients of the caudle, plenty of beer and wliifky ;
for each of the company muft contribute fomething 1 he rites begin with fpilling
lome of the caudle on the ground, by way of libation : on that every one takes a cake
of oatmeal, upon which are raifed nine fquare knobs, each dedicated to fome particular
beinij the fuppofed prefcrver of their flocks and herds, or to fome particular animal,
the rt'al dellroyer of them : each perfon then turns his face to the fire, breaks ofl' a
knob ai\d flinging it over his flioulders, fays, " This I give to thee, preferve thou my
horfes ; this to thee, preferve thou my fheep ; and fo on," After that, they ufe the
Txme ceremony to the noxious ajiimals ; " This I give to thee, O fox ! fpare thou my
lambs ; this to thee, O hooded crow ! this to thee, O eagle !"

"When the ceremony is over, they dine on the caudle ; and after the feaft Is finiflied,
what is left is hid by two perfons deputed for that purpofe ; but on the next Sunday
they re-afl"emble, and finifli the reliques of the firft entertainm-vitj.

On the death of ', lij;h .inder, the corpfe being (Iretched on a board, and covered
with a coarfe link . vvrapper, the friends lay on the breaft of the deceafed a wooden
platter, coi\tai'"iii; a fmall quantity of fait and earth, fepamie and unmixed ; the earth,
an emblem ol tli corruptible body ; the ialt, an emblem of the immortal fpirit. All
lire is cxtin ::uifhi ii where acorpfo is kept ; and it is reckoned fo ominous for a dog or
cat to piitei over it, that the poor animal is killed without mercy.

The Ute-wake is a cereniony ul'ed at funerals. The evening after the death of any
perfon, the relations and friends of the dcccafcd meet at the houfe, attended by bagpipe

• Which wa« not till ihc yi-ar 173^.

•»■ My account of this, and c\try other ccremnriy nientiontii iu this journal, w.is communicated to mc by
a gentleman rcGdeiit on the fpot where tlu-y wtu perfin: J

i A curtom favoiiiing of tlic Scotch 15cl tieii, prevail^ in Glouccfterftiire, particularly about Newrent
and the neighbouring parifliei, on the twelfth day, ov ci the F.plphany, in the evening. All tlie fervanti
oi every pariicuhr farmer afl'cmblc tij^itlier in oik- of the fields tiiat has been fnwn with wheat ; on the
border ot which, in the moll coiifpicvioiiii or moll elevated place, they make twelve firea of draw, in a row :
around one of whieh, made larger ihan|tiie rell, they diink a cheerful glafs of cyder to thcli- maftor's health,
fiRctfs tu the fuinrc harveft, ainl then returning home, they ftaft on c-jkes made of carraways, &c. foaked
inc\dci, which they claim as a reward for tlicir pall labours in fowing the grain. This (eemsio !eftmble
a culli'iii if the ancient Danes, who in thtii addrelles to their deiiies, emptied, on every invocation, a cup in
hi.ni u' t'lem. Niordi et Frejx menioria poculia recolebatur, annua ut iplij contingcrciit felicitas,
frvi|2ir leliquxannonx ubeirimusprovcntus. Worm. Munum. Dan. lib, i. p, 28,

vol. H or

FCNNANT*a roV9, IN 8C0TI.AND,

! I

or fiddle; the nearefl of kin, be it wife, fon, or daughter, opens a n^tlancholy hall,
dancing and greeting, i. e. crying, violently at the fame time ; and this continues till day-
light, but with fuch gambols and frolics among the younger part of the company, tliat
the lofs which occafioned them is often more than lupplied by the confequences of that
niglit •. If the corpfe remains unburied for two niglus, the fame rites are renewed,
liius, Scythian-like, they rcjcnco at the deliverance of their friends out of this life of
luircry.

This cuftom is an ancient Eiiglifli one, perhaps a Saxon. Chaucer mentions it in his
Knight's Talc.

Nc how the liclu'-wake was yliulj
/Vll tliilkc m't^lit.

It was not alone in Scotland that thefe watchings degenerated into excefs. Such in-
decencies we find long ago forbidden by the church. In vigiliis circa corpora mortuorwn
vcfanfur chorex et catUikiia, feculares lud'i et alii turpes tsffatui f.

The coranich, or finging at funerals, is flill in ufe in fomc places : the fongs arc ge-
nerally in praife of the deceafed, or a recital of the valiant deeds of him or his anceflors.
I had not the fortune to be prefent at any in North Britain, but formerly afUfted at one
in the fouth of Ireland, where it was performed in the fullnefs of horror. The cries
are called by the Irilh the 'ulsgohne and hullulu, two words extremely expreflive of the
found uttered on thefe occafions, and being of Celtic flock, etymologifls would fwear to
be the origin of the aXoXvyuM of the Greeks, and uliilatus of the Latins. Virgil is very
fond of ufing the laft, whenever any of Iiis ft males are diftreffed ; as are others of the
Roman poets, and generally on occafions fimilar to this.

It was my fortune to arrive at a certain town in Kerry, at the t'me tliat a peifon of fome
diftindion departed this life : my curiofity led me to the houfe, where the funeral
feemed conduced in the pureft cladical form.

Qundcunquc afpicerem likTiis gcmltufqiie funabant,
T'ormaque noil taciti funciii iiitiis crat.

In fliort, the conclainatio was fet up by the friends in the fame manner as Virgil defcribc?
tliat confequential of Dido's death.

Lamcntis gcmituqiicet fxtnineo ululatu
Tcda fremiiiu.

Immediately after this followed another ceremony, fully defcribed by Camden in his
account of the manners of the ancient Irifli ; the earneft expoflulations and reproaches
given to the deceafed for quitting this world, where (he enjoyed fo many blefliniTs, fo
good a hufliaiid, fuch hue children. This cuflom is alfo of great antiquity, for Eurya-
lus's mother makes the fame pathetic addrel's to her dead fon.

Tunc ilia feneil*
Sfta mn rcquics ? poiuilli reliiiqiicrc fulam

Cl lldclla .'

B»it when the time approached for carrying out the corpfe, the cry was redoubled

Trcmulis ululatibus xtlicia complciit ;

• TKi« curtom WT.; derived from their Northern anccftots. Longe ftciirius morienduin efTo aibitianttir
^mm viveiulim : pucrpcria hidu, fuiicraquc fellivo caiitu, ui in phuinaiia cyntelcLrantts. Oidus
IvlMgmi':, I I ^).

\ Synod. W ijjorn. An. 12^0. c. j. as quoted in Mr. Tyrwhit'j Chaucer, IV. z}^.

8 a numerous

^i**

pennant's -BOUR in SCOTLAND.

iltaiitur,
OUui

a nurtlerous band of females waiting in the outer court to attend the hearfe, and to pay
(in chorus) the laft tribute of their voices. The habit of this forrowing train, and the
negledl of their perfons, were admirably fuited to the occafion : their robes were black
and flowing, refembling the ancient Palla j their feet naked, their hair long and dilhe-
veiled : I might truly fay,

Vidi egom<t nigra fuccin(Sam vadere palla
Canidiam ; pedibus nudif, pairoque capillo,
Cum Sagana majoie uliilantcm.

Among thefe mourners were difperfed the females who fung the pralfes of the deceafed>
and were in the place of the mulieres prafica of the Romans, and like them, a mcrceiiury
tribe. I could not but obfervc ihat they over-did their parts, as Horace acquaints us
the hireling mourners of his days did.

lit qui condudi plorant in funere, dicunt
Et faci'unt prope plura dolentibus ex animo.

The corpfe was carried flowly along the verge of a moft beautiful lake, the ululatus was
continued, and the whole proceflion ended among the venerable ruins of an old abbey.
But to return to North Britain.

Midwives give new-bom babes a fmall fpoonful of earth and whifliy, as the firft food .
they tafte.

Before women bake their bannocks, or oatmeal cakes, they form a crofs on the laft
they make.

I he notion of fecond-fight ftlU prevails in a few places : as does the belief of fairies j
and children are watched till the chriftening is over, left they Ihould be ftole, or
changed.

EU-fhots, i. e. the ftone arrow-heads of the old inhabitants of thisifland, are fuppofed
to be weapons fliot by fairies at cattle, to which are attributed any diforders they have :
in order to elFeft a cure, the cow is to be touched by an df-lhot, or made to d»ink
the water in which one has been dipped. The fame virtue is faid to be found in the
cryftalgems*, and in the adder-llone, our glcin.naidr; and it is alfo believed thjt
good fortune muft attend the owner ; fo, for that renfon, the firft is called Clacli
Bhuai, or the powerful ftone. Captain Archibald Campbell ftiewed me one, a fphcroid
fet in filver, for the ufe of which, people came above a hundred miles, and brought the
water it was to be dipt in with them j for without that, in human cafes, it was believed
to have no effed.

'J'hcle have been fuppofed to be magical ftones or gems ufed by the Druids, to be
infpeded by a chafte boy, who was to fee in them an apparition informing him of future
events. This impofturc, as we "re told by Dr. Woodward, was revived in the hift century
by the famous Dodlor D.^e, who called it his (hew ftone and holy ftone, and pretended,
by its means, to foretell events. I (inJ ia Montfaucon f, that it was cultomary in early
times to depofitc balls of this kind in urns or fopulchres : thus twenty were found at
Koine in an alabaitrine urn : and one was dilcovercd in 1^153, in the tomb of Ciiildcric
at Tournai ; he was King of France, and died A. D. 480.

Auguft 2d, left Carrie, the houfe of Mr. Campbell, fador for the Struan eftate,
where I had a very hofpitable reception the preceding night. Went due ea(t ; paffed
over a bridge crofs the Tumel, which difcharges itielf out of Loch-Rannoch. Not far

• Woodward's Method of Foffils, p. ;o. See alfo Mr. Aubrey's Milcellanies, p. 128.
f Les Muniimciu de la Monarchic Frciicoile.

H 2

off

• 1

■i-u'l ■ ■

5«

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

off were fome neat fmall houfes, inhabited by \cteran foldiers, who were fettled here
after the peace of i ^48 ; had land, and three pounds in money given, and nine pounds
lent to begin the world with. In fome few places this plan fucceeded ; but in general
was fruftrated by the diffipation of thefe new colonics, who could by no means relifl*
nn induRrious life ; but as foon as the money was fpent, which feldom laded long, left
their tenements to be poflTcflfed by the next comer.

Saw next a ftamping-mill, calculated to reduce lime-done to a fine powder, in order
to fave theexpenceof burning, for manure. The ftainpcrs beat it into fmall pieces in a
trough, which a Ibvain of water pafl'jd through, carrying oft* the finer parts into a
proper receptacle, the grofs ones being flopped by a grate. I did not find that this
projeft anfwered ; but was told, that the benefit the land was to receive from it, would
not appear till the third year.

Ou going up a deep hiil, have a fine view of the lake. Where the mountains al-'
mo{ clofe, is Mount Alexander, where Struan once redded, and which he called his
herr tage ; it is a mod romantic fituation, prettily wooded, impending over a fine
bafin, formed by the Tutuel, in a deep hollow bene?th. At the bottom of this hill is
Argentine, a little fountain ; to which he gave that name from the filvery imcx it flings
up: near this arefeveral rude but beautiful walks amidd the rocks and trees, ainon^
which, in clefts and cliafms, I was (hewn the hard bed of the poor poet, when his dil-
Toyalty had made it penal for him to fliow his head. Near this the rocks almod meet,
and the river rufties with vaft violence between Some outlawed M'Gregors were once
furprized on the precipice, and all killed ; one, who made a defpcrate leap upon a done
in the middle of the water, and another to the oppofite fide, had the hard tatc to be
Ihot in climbling the rocky deeps.

A mile lower are the falls of the Tumel : I have feen higher ; but except that of the
Rhine, never fawone with more water.

Afcend a very deep and high hill, through a great birch wood ; a mod picturcfquc
fcene, from the pendant form of the boughs waving with the wind from the bottom to
the utmod fummitsof the mountain. ()n attaining the top, had a view of the beauti-
ful little Strailh, fertile and prettily wooded, with the river in the middle, forming num-
bers of quick meanders, then fuddcnly iV.clIing into a lake, that fills the vale from fide
to fide ; is about three miles long, and retains the name of the river. After riding
along a black moor, in fight of valt mountains, arrive at

Blair *, or Athol Houfe, ftated on an eminence above a plain, watered by the Gar)'»
an outrageous dream, whofe ravages have greatly deformed the valley, by the vaft beds
of gravel which it has left behind. The houfe was once fortified, and held a fiege
againft the rebels in 1746 ; but at prefcnt is much reduced in height, and the infide
highly finiflicd by the noble owner. The mod fingular piece of furniture is a ched of
drawers made of broom, moll elegantly driped in veins of white and brown. This
plant grows to a great fize in Scotland, and furnidies pieces of the breadth of fix
inches.

Near the houfe is a fine walk, furrounding a very deep glen finely wooded, but \n
dry weather deficient in water at the bottom ; but uu the fide of the walk on the rock
is a fmall crydalline fountain, inhabited at that time by a pair of Naiads, in form 01
golden fiih. In a fpruce fir was a hang-neft of fome unknown bird, fufpended at the
four conur ; to the boughs ; it was open at top, an inch and a half in diameter, and two
deepj ihe fides and bottom thick, the materials niofc, worded, and birch bark, lined with

Or a level clear fpot of ground, a fit flacc fjr an fugagcoient.

hair

I»£NNANT*S TOUR IN SCOTLAND. S;^

hair and feathers. The dreams afford the parr, a fmall fpecies of trout, feldom ex-
ceeding eight inches in length, marked on the ikies with nine large bluilh J'pots, and
on the lateral line with fmall red ones •. ^

No traveller fliould- omit vifiting Yorke Cafcade, a magnificent catara<5l, amidfl
moft fuitable fcenery, about a mile diftant from the houfe.

This country is very mountainous, has no natural woods, except of birch ; but the
vaft plantations that begin to cloath the hills will pmply fupply thefe defefts. There is
a great quantity of oats raifed in this neighbourhood, and nunibcrs of black cattle reared,
the refources of the exhaufted parts of South Britain.

Vifit the pafs of KilUcrankie , about five miles fouth of Blair : near the northern en-
trance was fought the battle between the Vifcount Dundee and General Mackay, in
which the firft was killed in the moment of viftory. The pafs is extremr ly narrow
between high mountains, with the Gary running beneath in a deep, darkfome, and
rocky channel, over-hung with trees, forming a fcene of horrible grandeur. The road
through this ftrait is very fine, formed by the foldiery lent by the government, who
have fixpcnce per day from the country, befides their pay. About a mile beyond the
pais, Mr. Robertfon's, of Fafkally, appears like fairy ground, amidft thefe wild rocks,
feated in a moft beautiful meadow, watered by the river Tumel, furrounded with pretty
hills, finely wfooded.

The Duke of Athol's eftate is very extenfive, and the country populous : while

valTalage exifted, the chieftain could raife two or three thoufand fighting men, and leave

fufficient at home to take care of the ground. The forefts, or rather chafes, (for they

wi". quite naked) are very extenfive, and feed vaft numbers of ftags, which range

'ertain times of the year, in herds of five hundred. Some grow to a great fize :

; we heard of one that weighed eighteen ftone, Scots, or three hundred and fourteen
}.ounds, exclufive of head, entrails, and Ikin. The hunting of thelb animals was for-
merly after the manner of an eaftern monarch. Thoufands of vaflals furrounded a
great traft of country, and drove the deer to the fpo. where the cliieftains were fta-
tioned, who fliot them at their leifure. The magnificent hunt, made by an Earl of
Athol, near this place, for the amufement of James V. and the Queen mother, is too-
remarkaule to be omitted ; the relation is therefore given as dclcribed by Sir David
Lindfay of the Mount f, who, in all probability, aflifted at it.

" The Earl of Athole, hearing of the King's coming, made great provifion for him
in all things pertaining to a prince, that lie was as well ferved and eafcd, with all things
necelTary to his eftate, as he had been in his own palace of Edinburgh. For I heard-
fay, this noble Earl gart make a curious palace to the King, to his Mother, and to the
Embaflador, where they were fo honourably eafed and lodged as they had been in
England, France, Italy, or Spain, concerning the time and equivalent, for their hunting
and paftime ; which was builded in the midll of a fair meadow, a fair palace of green
tunber, wind with green birks, that were green both under and above, which was fa-
Ihioned in four quarters, and in every quarter and nuik thereof a great round, as it
had been a block-houft, which was lofted and gefted the fpace of three houfe height ;
the floors laid with green fcarets, fpreats, medwarts and flowers, that no man knew
whereon he zeid, but as he had been in a garden. Further, there were two great rounds
in ilk fide of the gate, and a great portculleis of tree, falling down with the manner of
a barrace, with a draw-bridge, and a great ftank of water of fixteen foot deep, and
thirty foot of breadth. And alio this palace within was hung with fine tapeftry and

* The Samlet. Br. Zool. III. No. 148.

\ Ililt. Scotland, 146.

hail

iurafic3

5,!

^4 PBNNANT S TOUA IN SCOTLAND.

arrafTes of filk, and lighted with fine glafs windows in all airths } that this palace was
as pleafantly decored, with all neccflliries pertaining to a prince, as it had been his own
palace-royiil at home. Further, this Earl gart make fuch provifion for the King, and
his Mother, and the Embafl'ador, that they !iad all manner of meats, drinks, and deli-
cates that were to be gotten, at that time, in all Scotland, either in burgh or land ; that
is to fay, all kind of drink, as ale, beer, wine, both white and claret, malvery, mulkadel,
hippocras, aquavitae. Further, there was of meats, wheat-bread, main-bread and ginge-
bread ; with fleflies, beef, mutton, lamb, veal, venifon, goofe,grice, capon, coney,
cran, fwan, partridge, plover, duck, drake, briflelcock and pawnes, black-cock,
and muir-fowl, capper ''.Hies : and alfo the flsrks, that were round about the palace,
were full of all delicate ulhes, as falmonds, trouts, pearches, pikes, eels, and all other
kind of delicate fifties, that could be gotten in frefli waters ; and all ready for the banket.
Syne were there proper ftcwards, cunning baxters, excellent cooks and potingars,
with confedions and drugs for their deferts ; and the halls and chambers were pre-
pared with coltly bedding, veflcl and napery, according for a king, lb that he wanted
none of his orders more than he had been at home in his own palace. The King re-
ma.ied in this wilde nefs, at the hunting, the fpace of three days and three nights, and
his company, as I have fliewn. 1 heard men fay, it cod the Earl of Athole, every day,
in expences, a thoufand pounds."

But hunting lueetings, among the great men, were often the preludes to reb'-llion ;
for under that pretence they colletfled great bodies of men without fufpicion, which at
length occafioned an aft of parliament prohibiting fuch dangerous aflemblies.

Aug. 3. Ret out for the county of Aberdeen ; ride eaftward over a hill into Glen-
Tilt, famous in old times for producing the moft hardy warriors. Is a narrow glen,
feveral miles in kngth, bounded on each fide by mouptains of an amazing height ; on
the fouth is the great hill of Ben y glo, whofe bafe is thirty-five miles in circumference,
and whofe funimit towers far above the others. . The fides of many of thefe mountains
are covered with fine verdure, and are excellent flieep -walks : but entirely woodlcfs.
The road is the mod dangerous and the molt horrible I ever tra\ elled : a narrow path,
fo rugged, that our horles often were obliged tc; crofs their legs, in order to pick a
fecure place for their feet ; while, at a conlidevahle and precipitous depth beneath,
roared a black torrent, rol'ing through a beJ of rock, Iblid in every part, but where
the Tilt had worn its ant-jnt way, Salmon force their paffage even as high as this
dreary flreaui, in fpite of the dillapcc from the fea, and the uilliculties they have to
"ncountcr.

/Mceiul a ftecp hill, and find ourfelves on an arrie, o" traft of mountain, which the
families of one or two hamlets retire tc with their flocks for padiire in fuuuuer. Here
we retrtlhcd ourfelves witli fome goats' whey, at a Shtelin, or Bothay, a cottage made
of turf, the dairy-houfc, where the Highland (hepherds, or graziers, live with their herds
;ind flocks, and during the fine fealon make butter and die 'le. Their whole futnituro
confills of a few horii-rpoons, their milking uttnfils, a coueii formed of fods to lie on,
and a rug to cover ihcin. 1 licir food oat-cakes, butter or c!i fe, and often the co-
agulated blood of tlieir cattle fpread on their bannocs. Their . ik milk, whey, and
I'ointtimes, by way ol iiuiutgence, wliilky. Such daii^-houfes are common to mod
mountniiious countries ^ tlioie ui Walcii are called Hafbdtai, or fummer-houfes ; thofe
on the Swifs Alps, Sennos.

Dined on the fide of Loch-Tilt, a fmall piece of water, fwarming with trouts.
Continued our journey over a wild, black, moory, melancholy trad. Reached Brae-
mar j

I i

1 I

FENNANT's tour in SCOTLAND.

lich the
Mere
made
r htrJs
tniture
ie on,
the CO'
y, and
) niofl
thofe

mar * } the country almofl: inftantly changed, and in lieu of dreary waftes, a rich vale,
plenteous in cf rn and grafs, fucceeded. Crofs the Dee near its head, which, from an
infignificant ftream, in the courfe of a very few miles, increafes to the fize of a great
river, from the influx of numbers of other waters ; and is remarkable for continuing
near fifty miles of its courfe, from Invercauld to within fix miles of Aberdeen, without
any fenfible augmentation. The rocks of Brae-mar, on the ea(t, are exceedingly ro-
mantic, finely wooded with pine. The cliffs are very lofty, and their front moil
rugged and broken, with vaft pines growing out of their fiffures.

On the north fide of the river lies Dalmorc, didinguirtied by the fineft natural pines
ill Europe, both in refpeft to the fize of the trees, and the quality of the timber. Single
trees have been fold out of it fjr fix guineas : they were from eighty to ninety feet high,
without a lateral branch, and four feet and a half in diameter at the lower end. The
wood is very refinous, of a dark red colour, and very weighty. If is preferable to
any brought from Norway, and being fawn into plank on the fpot, brings annually to
the proprietor a large revenue. On the oppofite fide of the river is the eltate of In-
verey, noted alfo for its pines, but of a fize inferior to thofe of Dalmore. When the
river is fwelled with rains, great floats of timber from both thefe eftates, are fent down
into the Low Countries.

This trad, abounding with game, was, in old times, the annual refort of numbers of
nobility, who afietnblod here to pafs a month or two in the amufements of the chace.
Their huntings refembled campaigns j they livrd in temporary cottages, called Lon-
quhards, were all drelTed in an uniform habit conturmable to that of the country, and
pafled their time with jollity and good cheer, moft admirably defcribed by John Taylor,
the water poet, who, m 1618, made there his Pennilefle Pilgrimage, and defcribes, in
page 135, the rural luxury with all the glee of a Sancho Pan9a. .

" I thank my good Lord Erlkin," (fays the poet) *' hee commanded that I
fhould alwaycs bee lodged in his lodging, the kitchen being alwayes on the fide cf a
banke, many kettles and pots boyling, and many fpits turning and winding, with
great variety of cheere: as venifon bak'd, fodcJen, roft and llu'de beefe, mutton,
goates, kid, hares, freflt falnion, pidgeons, hens, capons, chickens, partridge, moore-
coots, heath-cocks, caperkellies, and termagants : good ale, facke, white and claret,
tent or (AUcgant j and moft potent aquavitse f.'*

« All

* l5rae fignifies a deep face of any hll!.

f The Frencli, during the reign of Charles IX. feemed not only to liave maJe full as large faorificeo
to Diana and Bacchue, but even thought their entertainment incomplete without tlie pref^nce of Venus.
Jacques du Fouilloiix, a celebrated writer on hunting of that age, with much ferioufncfs defcribes all
the rcquifites for the cince, and thus places and equips the jovial crew : «« L' Aff-jmblce fe doit faire eij
(juelquc beau lieu loubs d«3 arbres auprcs d'uue funtaine ou Ruiffeau, la ou les vencurs fc duiuent tou^
ixndic pour faire liur rapport. C:: pendant Ic Sommelier doit venir avec trois bons chcvaux charges d*
iiitlrumtns pour arroufcr Ic gofier, conime coutreti?, b.irraux, barils, llacuns et houteilles : lefqui-llea
doineiit ertre p'.eines de hon vin d' Arbois, de li^aum-, deChaloce et de Graue : luy ellant defcendu du
ciicvat, les metra rcfrailchir en I'cau, ou biens les pourra faire refniidir aver du Canfre : apres il ellrand.i
1 1 nappe fur la verdure. Ce fait, le cuifinier s'en vtcndm charge de plufieurs bons harnois de gueule,
conime jambons, lan^ues de boeuf fumees, groins, oreilles de pourceau, cervelats, cfchinccs, pieces de bicuf Jc
Saifon, arbonnade9, jambons de Maycnce, pallez, longes dc veau froidca, couvcrtcs de poudrc bl.iuche,
et autrci menus fuffrages pur remplir le boudm Icquel il inetr:i fur la nappe.

" l.ors le Roy ou le Seigneur avec ceux de fa t.ible ellrendiont leurs nianteaux fur I'herbe, et fe couoh-
etont de colte deffus, boauuans, mangeans, riana et faifans grand chere j" and that nothing might Le
wanting to render the entertainment of inch a fet of merrv men complete, honell Jacques adds, " tt d'il y
a qujque femme de reputation en ce pays qui fafle plaifir anx compagnons, elle doit cue alleguiie, et fcs
paffages et remuem«usde fellies, attendant Ic vappurt a venir."

But

: . "5 ,

PINNAKT*S TOUR IN SCOri.AND.

" All thcfo, and more than thefe, we had had continually, in fuperfiuous abun-
dance, caught by i'au'.concrs, fowlers, fifljeis, and brought by my Lord's (Mar)
tenants and purveyors, to victual our cainpe, which confided of tou; lienor fifteen
hundred men and horlos. The manner of the hunting is this : five or lix hundr..d men
doe rife early in tlie morning, and they doe difperfc themfclves divers uayes, and
levcn, eight, or ten miles compafle, they doe bring or rhace in the deer in many hcariis
(two, three, or four hundred in a heard) to fuch or fuch a place, as the noblfnien
fhall appoint them ; then when day is come, tlie lords and gcntleuien of their compa-
nies doc ride or goc to the faid places, fonioiinies wading up lo the middles through
bournes and rivers ; and then they being come to tiie placo, doe lie down on the
ground till thofe forefaid fcouts, which are called theTinckhcli, doe bring down tho
deer; but, as the proverb fays of a bad cooke, fo thefe Tinckhell men doe lick their
own fingers; for, befides their bow es and arrows wliieh they carry with them, wee
can hearo now and then a harguebufe, or a mufquet, goe oft, which doe feldom tlif-
-charge in vainc : then after we liad (layed three houres, or thereabouts, we might per-
<-eive the deer appeare on the hills round about us, (their heads making a Ihevv like a
wood) which being followed clofe by the Tinckhell, are cliafed down the valley wl erj
we lay ;, then all the valley on each fide being way-laid with a hundreil couple of
ilrong Iriih greyhounds, they arc let loofe, as occafion ferves, upon the heard of
4leere, that with dog;;, gunnes, arrows, dutkes and daggers, in the fpace of two
houres, fourfcoie fat d.cere were flaine, which after ;ire dilpofcd offomeoneway and
foifle another, twenty or thirty mlLs, and more than enougli left for us to make merry
with all at our reiuievou;!e. Being come to our lodgings, there was fuch baking, boyl-
ing, roailing and (tewing, as if Cook Rutlian had been there to have fcaldcdthe Devil
in his feathi rs." But to proceed.

Pali by the caflle of Brae-mar, a fquarc tower, the feat of the antient F.arls of Mar :
in later tiip.es a garrifon to curb the difcontented chieftains ; but at pi'efent unnecelfa-
rily occupied by a company of foot, being rented by the Government from Mr. Far-
<iuharfon, of Invcrcauld, whofe noufe 1 reach in lefs than half an hour.

Invcrcauld is feated in the centre of the Grampian hills, in a fertile vale, waflied bf
the Dee, a large and rapid river; nothing can be more beautiful than the dilferent
views from t'le feveral parts of it. On the northern entrance, immcnfe ragged and
broken craggs bound 00c fide of the profpcd ; over whofe grey fides and fummits is
Jcattered the melancholy green of tlie pichnvfque pine, which grows out of the naked
rock, where one would think nature would have denied vegetation.

A little lower down is the calHe above. mentioned ; formerly a necefTary curb on
ihe little kings of the country ; but at prefent ferves icarce any purpofe, but to adorn
tlie landfcape.

'1 he views from the fkiiis of the plain near Invercaul ', are very great ; the hills
that imtncdiately bound it are cloathcd with trees, particul.irly with birch, whofe long
and pendent boughs, waving a vaft height above the hca«.U furpafs the beauties of tha
weeping willow.

Flit whtn the p'cat man fplliw out to tlif cliace of foxes and badgers, lie fcems not to lewc fo -oipor.
tar.t an affair to clunce, fo fits oti'tliua aiin)ly provided in Ills iriuniijlial Ciir; *' Lc .Srijriiciii,'' (f,iys
Fm.illoux) "doit avoir •« pttlte cli iirttte, la oi'iil fira dcdpns" avcc la nilttte agct Jo l\i/.c a dix fti)t
ani, laqiitllo liiy fro tora la tille par Ics tlu-miiis, Toiites lea clicviljei et paiiK de la cluu-tte doiiiciiC
*l're garnis dc flaccoiis tt bouteiliit, ct ddit avoir ati b^'iit di- Id charri-tte nil collie dc bois, picin de i i»]ii
d'ii.cic fro:di', jatnl)oi;s, liiijrucB dr Utrufs et autre- bons hariiols dc gurllc. Et fi c'tll cii »cinp« d'hivii . il
p.inra fain.- [icrtcr Ion pclit pavill.jn, cL faiic ua k\i dvdaiu pour fe cliauffa, ou Lien doiiiier uil coup lU
XfjbLc a la rij .H] hi:." ]i jj -j.

5 The

PEHNANV's TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

c f<i 'iipor*
u;,'- (f,iy»
• a dix ftjil
'Uc (loiiiciit
ciii de toqi
h<l'hu;i. A

The fouthem extremity 5s pre-eminently magnificent ; the mountsuns form there a
vaft theatre, the bofom of ^hich is covered with extenfive forefts of pines : above, the
trees grow fcarcer and fcarcer, and then feem only to fprnklc the furface ; after which
vegetation ceafes, and naked fummits* of a furprifing height fucceed, many of them
' topped with perpetual fnow ; and, as a fine contiaft to the Icene, the great cataraft of
Garval-bourn, which feems at a diftance to divide the whole, foams amidd the dark
foreft, ruftiing from rock to rock to a vaft diftance.

Some of thefe hills arefuppofed to he the higheft part of Great Britain : their height
has not yet been taken, but the conjefture is made from the defcent of the Dec,
which runs from Brae-marf to the fea, above feventy miles, with a mofl rapid courfe.

In this vale the Earl of Mar firll fct up the Pretender's ftandard on the fixth of
September 1715; and in confeciuence drew to deftru£Uon his own, and feveral of the
moft noble families of North Britain.

Rode to tiike a nearer view of the environs ; crofled the Dee on a good ftone-bridge
built by the Government, and entered on excellent roads into a magnificent foreft of
pines of many miles extent. Some of the trees are of a vaft fize ; I meafured feveral
that were ten, eleven, and even twelve feet in circumference, and near fixty feet high,
forming a moft beautiful column, with a fine verdant capital. Thefe trees are of great
age, having, as is fuppofed, feen two centuries. Their value is confiderable ; Mr. Far*

3uharfon mformed me, that by fawing and retsdling them, he has got for eight hun«
red trees five-and-twenty {hillings each : they are fawed in an adjacent faw-mill, into
plank ten feet long, eleven inches broad and three thick, and fold for two (hillings
a>piece.

Near this antient foreft is another, confifting of fmaller trees, almoft as high, but
very (lender ; one grows in a Angular manner out of the top of a great ftone, and
notwithftanding it feems to h<^vc no other nourilhment than what it gets from the dews,
is above thirty feet high.

The profpefl: above thefe forefts is very extraordinary, a diftant view of hills over z
furface of verdant pyramids of pines.

I muft not omit, that there are in the moors of thefe parts, what I may call fubterra-
neous forefts, of the fame fpecies Of trees, overthrown by the rage of tempefts, and
covered with vegetable mould. The are dug up, and ufed for feveral mechanical
purpofeSi The finer and more rel'i . us parts are iplit into (lender pieces, and ferve
thr. /Uipofes of torches. Ceres made ufe of no other in her fearch after her loll
daughter

Ilia diiabus
Flammlfcra pinus manibus lucccndit ab ^tna.

Ovid. Met. lib. ». 7.
At Etna's (laming mouth two pitchy pines
To light her ia her I'earch at kiigth (he tines.

This whole tracl abounds with game : the Hags at this time were ranging in the moun-
Jns; but the little roebucks I v.cre perpetually bounding before us; and the black
game often fprung under our feet. The tops ol" the hills 1 warmed with grous and ptarmi-
gans. Green plovers, whimbrels, and fnow-flakcs §, breed here : the laft affemble in

tains

• The higheft Is called Den y bourd, under which is a fmall Loch, vhich I wai tolJ had ice the
ur end of July.

f The moli dil\ant from the fc;i of any place in North Britain.
% Thefe animals are reared with great difFiculty ; even when tak
^ Br. Zool. I. No. 122.

VOL. ill. I

Ut.

taken young, eight out of ten generally die.

great

, !

58 pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

givat flocks lUirIng winter, and oollcfl fo clol'cly in their eddying fli':;lit, as to give tlie
ip<Mirinan opportunity oi killing iiuinbers at a fliot. Katies *, peri'griiie f.d oiis, and
gii|]j;\\vks brotd iiere : the falcons in rocks, the golliawks in trees : tlie !a(l purfues its
piey an end, and dallies tliroiigh every (liiiig in |niii\iit ; bnt if it niilTes its quarry,
ticfilU from fi>llo\vin'.; it afier two or tliree hutuiied yards flight. 'J'hefe birds are pro-
fcribed ; half a crown is given for an eagle, a Ihilling lor a Inwk, or liooiled crow.

l'"o.\es are in thel'e parts very ravenons, feeding on rix^s, fheep, auJ ev;?n (lie-goats.

Uooks vifit thefe vales in autumn, to feed on the dillerent (on of berries j but nei-
ther winter nor breed here.

I faw flying in the forcfts, the greater bulfmch oi' Mr. EdwarJ;-., tab. 123, 124. the
Loxia enueleatoi' nf l.iniuvus, whole food is the Iced ol' pine-cones; a bird commoa
to the north of Europe and America.

On our return palled under fome hi'^h clifl's, with large woods of birch intermixed.
This tree is uled for all forts of implements of hulbandry, roofuiir of fmall houlco,
wheels, fuel ; the Highlanders alfo tan their own leather with the bark ; and a great
deal of excellent wine is extracted from the live tree. Oblerved among thefe rocsS
a fort of projeding fhelfon which had been a hut, acceflible only by the help of fome
thongs, fai'leiied by fome very expert climbers, to which the family got, in time of
danger, in former days, with their mofl valuable moveables.

The houfes of the common people in thefe parts are fliocking to humanity, formed
with loofe Itones, and covered with clods, which they call devots, or with heath, broom,
or branches of fir : they look, at a diitance, like I'o many black mole-hills. The in-
habitants live very poorly, on oatmeal, barley-cakes and potatoes; their drink whiiky
fweetencd with honey. The men are thin, but flrong ; iille and lazy, except em-
ployed in the chace, or any thing that looks like anuiRnu i>t ; are content with their
hard fare, and will not exert themfelv .'s farther than to get what they deem necedarlcs.
The women are more induftrious, fpin their own hufbands' eloalli;:, and get money by
knitting ftockings, th? great trade of the country. The common women are in ge-
neral moll retnaikably plain, and foon acquire an old look, and by b^ing nuich expofed
to the wcaiher without hats, fuch agrin,.nnd contratlilion of mufcK's, as heightens greatly
their natural hardnefs of ieatures : I never faw fo much plainiie'.-. among the lower rank
of females : but the nc plus ultra of hard features is not found till you arrive antonj
the fifli w omen of Abenleen.

Tenants pay their rent generally in this country in monev, except what they pay ill
poultry, which is lione to promote .he breed, as the g.'ntry are lo remote from any
market. Thofe that rent a mill pay a hog or two ; an animal io detelled by the High-
landers, that very few can be prevailed on to taile it in any lhap>'. Labour is here very
cheap, the ufual pay being fifty fliillings a year, and two pecks of oatmeal a week.

Purfucd my journey eail, along a beautiful road by the river-fide, in fight of the pine
forcfts. The vale now grows narrow, and is fdUd with woods of birch and alder.
Saw on the road-fide the feats of gentlemen, high built, aiul once defenlible. 'I'he pea-
fants cultivate their little land with great care to the very vd^e of the ftony hills.
Ail the way arc vafl mafles of granite, tiie fauic v.hicii is called in Cornwall, Moor-
ftone.

The glen contrafls, and the mountains approach eacli oilur. Ouit the Highlands,
pafllng between two great rocks, called the I'ai's of BolUtir, a ver) iiarrow fbait, whole

• Tfie ring-tall eagle, called hcretlie lilark Eig'e. I fufrjci''t, fn-ni ili: 'klVriptioji; ilut tlio dotrd breeds
ftcre. I hear alfj of a biid, called here Snaiach ii.i cuirii, Gut co..Kl not inocvic it.

7 bottom

tn give the
il oils, and
purfuL'S its
its quarry,
Js are pro-
il crow,
(liv-goats.
j ; but nei-

;, 124. the
d common

ntcrinlxcd.
all houl'cs,
md a great
hi-fu roc is s
;lp of fome
in time of

ity, formed
til, broom,
. The in-
ink whilky
;xcept cm-

witli their
(lecod'arics.

money by

are in gc-
:h expofcd
;ns greatly

iwer ranli
ivc aniJii.r

hey pay in
from any
the Ihi^h-

i iierevery
week.

ot the pine

iiul alder.

I he pea-

;()ny hills.

ill, Muor-

!I;;hIands,
■ait, wiioie

dotrcl hrccJs

bottom

PKNNANT'.S tour in SCOTLAND.

bottom is covorc;' with the tremendous ruins of the precipices that bound the road.
I was informed, that here the wind rar;es with great fiirv during winter, and catciiing
up the rno\v in ."ddii;;, wliirLs it about with fueh impetuofity, as makes it dangerous fir
iiian or bcall to be out at that time. Rain alfo pours down fometimes in deiucres, and
carries with it (hMie iind gravel from the hills in fuch quantity, that I have fcen the
cfll'ds of th. fe fpates, as iliey are called, lie cvoI'a the roads, as the avaianclies, or
fnow-falls, do thofe of tliL' Alps. In many parts of the Highlands were hufpiua for
tile reception of iiTivellers, rx'led by the Scoicli, Spittles, or hofpitals : the fame were
iiliial in Wales, where they are (iyl^'d Yfpytty ; and, in both places, were maintained
by the religious houfes: as limilar afylums are to this day fupported, in many parts of
the Alps.

This pafs is the caflern entrance into the Highlands. The country now affumes a
rew face: the hills grow lefs, but the land more barren, and is chiefly covered with
heath and roek. The edges oji the Dee are cultivated, but the refl only in patchesy
am jng which is generally a groupe ot fmall houfes. There is alfo a chan;je of trees,
oaV beiiv.:; the principal wood, but even that is fcarce. *•

i">ntli'^ fouth lide of the river is Glen-Muik, remarkable for a fine cataracl formed
by the iiver Muik, which, alter running for a confiderablc way along a level moor,
at once falls down a perpendicular rock of a femicircular form, called the Lin of Muik,
into a liole of fo (:^reat a depth worn by the weight of water, as to be fuppofed by the
vulgar to be bottomlcfs.

Refrefhed my horfes at a hamlet called Tullich, and looking weft, faw the great
mountain Laghin y gair, which is always covered with fnow.

Almoft oppofite to the village of Tullich is Hananich, noted for the mineral water
difcovercd a i\'w years ago, and found to be very beneficial in rheumatic and fcrophu-
lous cafes, and complaints of the gravel. During fummer great numbers of people
afHicled with thofe diforders refort there to drink the waters; and for their reception
feveral commodious houfes have already been built.

A little below Tullich ride over the fouth corner of,the hill of Culbleen, where foon
after the Revolution, a bloodlefs baitle was fought between King William's forces,
under the command of General Mackay, and fome gentlemen of the country, with their
dependents. The laft made fuch an expeditious retreat, tiiat, in derifion, it was called
the race of Tullich.

The hill of Culbleen is the fouth-wefl: extremity of a range of mountains which form
a deep femicircle, and enclofe on all fides, except the fouth, a very fruitful bottom, and
five parilhes, called Cromar. The foil, excepting fome moors and little hills, is good to
the toot of the mountains, and produces the belt barley in the county of Aberdeen.
Cromar is the entrance into the low countries ; the Krfe language has been difufed in
it for many ages, yet is fpoken at this time fix miles well in Glen-gairn.

One of the mountains to the well is Ityled the Hil! of Morven, of a Ihipendous height,
and on the fide next to Cromar, alniolt perpendicular. From the top, the whole
country as far as Aberdeen, thirty computed miles, feems from this height as a plain ;
and the prolped terminates in the German ocean. The other great mountains appear
to fink to a common (ize ; and even Laghin y gair abates of its grandeur. About
four miles below Culbleen, at Charles-Town, ride on a lincAvith the hill of Coul the
fouth-eatl extremity of the Cromar mountains.

A little north of Charles -Town Hands Aboyne caftle, the feat of the Earl of Aboyne,
aniidit large plantations ; but liis Lordlliip's pines in the forefl of Glen Tanner, yield to
aoiie in Scotland, excepting thofu of Dalmore.

1 2 Obfcrvcd

PEMMANT*« TOUR IN SCOTtAKD.

Obfervcd fevcral vaft plantations of pines, planted by gentlemen near their feats ;
fuch a laudable fpirit prevails in this refpe*ft, that in another half century, it never fhall
be faid, that to fpy the niikednefs of the land you arc come.

Dine at the little village of Kiiicairn Oneil. HtToabouts the common people
cultivate a great deal of cabbage. 'I'hc oat-(icldb arciiiclofcd with rude low mounds of
ftone.

It gives me real concern to find any hillorical authority fov overthrowing the beauti-
ful relation that the powerful genius of Shakol'ijcar has formed out of Boethius's talo of
Macbeth. If we may credit Fordun, that tilurpcM- was flain in his retreat at Lunfanan,
two miles north-well of this place. 'I'o Sir David Dalrymple's • accurate invefUgation
of a dark period of the Scottiflj hiftory, I am obliged for this difcovcry. " Neartlie
church i)f Lunfanan," adds that gentleman, " is the vedige of an ancient fortrefs once
furrounded by " a brook that runs by." This he conjectures to have been the retreat
of Macbeth.

Lay at a mean houfe at Banchoric. The country, from nollitir to this place, dull,
unlefs where varied by the windings of the river, nr with the plantations.

Auguft 7th, the nearer to Aberdct-n, the lower the country grows, and the greater
the quantity of corn : in general, oats and barley ; for there is very little wheat ibwn in
thofe parts. Reach

Aberdeen, a fine city, lying on a finall bay, formed by the Dee, deep enough for
(hips of two hundred tons. 'I'he town is about two miles in circumference, and con-
tains thirteen thoufand fouls, and about three thoufand in the fuburbs ; but the whole
number of inhabitants between the bridges Dee and Don, which includes both the
Aberdecns, and the interjacent houfes or hamlets, is crtimated at twenty thoufand. It
once enjoyed a good fharc of the tobacco trade, but was at length forced to refign it to
Glafgow, which was fo much more conveniently fituated for it. At prefcnt, its im-
ports are from the Baltic, and a few merchants trade to the Weft Indies and North
America. Its exports are, (lockings, thread, I'almon, and oatmeal : the firlt is a mofl
important article, as appears by the following ftate of it. I'or this manufafture 20,800
pounds worth of wool is annually imported, and 1600 pounds worth of oil. Of this
wool is annually made 69,333 dozen pairs of ftockings, worth, at an average il. los.
per dozen. Thcfe are made by the country people, in almoit all parts of this great
county, who get 4s. per dozen for fpinning, and 1 4s. per dozen for knitting, fo that
there is annually paid them 62,3:91. 14s. /\nd befidcs, there is about 2oool. value
of (lockings manufadured from the wool of the county, which encourages the breed
of (heep much ; for even as high as Invercauld, the farmer fells his (hoep at twelve
(hillings a-piecc, and keeps them till they are four or five years old, for the fake of the
wool. About 200 combers are alfo employed conllantly. The thread manufadure is
another confiderable article, though trifling in companion of tlic woollen.

The falmon fiflieries on the Dee and the Don, are a good branch of trade : about
46 boats, and 130 men arc employed on the fird ; and in fome years 167,0001b. of filh
h.ive been fent pickled to London, and about 930 barrels of failed filh exported to
France, Italy, &c. The n(hcry on the Don is far lefs confiderable. About the time
of Henry VIII. this place was noted for a confiderable trade in dried cod-fifli, at that
period known by the name of Habberdyn ii(h.

The town of y\bcrdeen is in general well built, with granite from the neighbouring
quarries. The beft ftreet, or rather place, is the Cafllc-Areet : in the middle is au

Aunali ofScotlaad, p. 2.

Ctlagon

remnant's tour in ieoTx.ANe«

heir feats ;
never fhall

on people
mounds of

the beauti-
us's tale of
Lunf'anan,
vedigation
' Near the
trefs once
the retreat

ace, dull,

ic greater
at i'c/ vn in

lough for
and con-
the whole
both the
ifand. It
sfign it to
kt, its im>
id North
is a mod
re 20,800
Of this

1 1. I OS.

this great
J, fo that
>o!. value
the breed
at twelve
lie of the
r^flure is

s: about
b. offilh
lorted to
the time
) ut that

ibouring
lie is ua

Ot^a^'on

odsgon building, with neat bas relievos of the Kings of Scotland, from James I, to
James VII. The town-houfc makes a good figure, and has a handfome fpire in the
centre.

The eafl and weft churches arc under the fame roof ; for the North Britions obferve
ceconomy, even in their religion : in one I obferved a fmall (hip hung up ; a votive of-
fering frequent enough in Popifli churches, but appeared very unexpe£tedly here. But
I am now fatisfied that the Ihip only denotes the right the mariners have to a litting
place beneath.

In the church-yard lies Andrew Cant, minifter of Aberdeen, from whom the
Spectator derives the word to cant : but in all probability, Andrew canted no more
than the reft of his brethren, for he lived in a whining age*; the word therefore
feems to be derived from canto, from their finging out their difcourfes. The infcrip^
tion on his monument fpeaks of him in very high terms, ftylcs him vir fuo feculo
fummus, qui orbi hui*. et urbi ccclefiaftes, voce et vita inclinatam roligionem fuftinuit,
degcneres mundi mores refinxit, ardens ct amani^, Boanerges et Barnabas, Magnes et
Adamus, &c. &c.

In the fame place are multitudes of long>winded epitaphs ; but the following, though
Ihort, has a moft elegant turn :

Si fidei, ft humanltait, multoque (^ratut leporc candor;
Si fuurum amor, amicorum cnan'tas, omniumque Bene<

volcntiafpititiim reducere polTcnl,
Haud licic fitua cflet Juhannrs Burnet a Elriclc. 1747.

The college is a large old building, founded by George Earl of Marechal, 1593.
On one fide is this ftrange infcription ; probably alluding to fome fcoffers at that time :

Tliey have feid,
Quiint fay thay i
Ltt Yame fay.

In the great room are feveral good pidures. A head of the founder. The prefent
JLord Marechal when young, and General Keith, his brother. Biihop Burnet in his
robes, as Chancellor of the Garter. A head of Mary Stuart, in black, with a crown
in one hand, a crucitix in the other. Arthur Jonfton, a fine head by Jamefon. An-
drew Cant, by the fame. Gordon of Strachloch, publifher of the maps ; DoAor
Gregory, author of the reflecting telefcope ; and feveral others, by Jamefon.

In the library is the alcoran on vellum, finely illuminated.

A Hebrew bible, manulcript, with Rabbinical notes on vellum.

Ifidori excerpta ex libro : a great curiofity, being a complete natural hiftory, with
figures, richly illuminated on fquares of plated gold, on vellum.

A paraphrafo on the Revelation, by J, ncs VI. with notes, in the King's own hand.

A fine niilial.

There are about a hundred and forty ftudents belonging to this college.

The convents in Aberdeen were ; one of Mathurines, or of the order of the Trinity,
founded by William the Lion, who died in 1214 : another of Dominicans, by Alex-
ander II, : a third of Oblorvantines, a building of great length in the middle of the
city, founded by the citizens, and Mr. Richard Vaus, &c. : and a fourth of Carmeliies,
or White Friers, founded by Philip de Arbuthnot, in 1350. In the ruins of this was
difcovered a very curious filver chain, fix feet long, with a round plate at one end,
and at the other a pcar-lhaped appendage j which is ftill preferved in the library.

* In Charlc» the Firft'i time.

The

/^l »ENMAHT*4 TMl R IN «CrtTI,ANF>.

Thr pjnmTTiar-fchool is a low but nent IniiKliiv^. flonlnn';! Iiofpital is handfonu' ;
In f;-oi,i is ;i ;i;»)(k1 Ihitue of tho foundrr : it inaiutiiiiiH forty boys, cluKlrcn of the iu-
habit.intj of Abcriloi-n, wlio arc ai»|)ri'i\tictil it propir aj^cs.

1 he intirmarv is a large plain building, aiul ft-uds out between oi^^ht or nine luimlrcd
cured patioiits annually.

On thf fidcof f!v> great bleachcry, whicii is coininon to tlie town, arc the public
walk;.. Over a roui, botwvrn the CiOle-ilriet and the harbour, Is a very haudlbiae
a:vh, which inu(t attrad tlieatteiitinn of the tiavilkr.

On the* eall of the town is a work bciMiii by CroiinTell, from whence is a fine view
of tlii'fea: Iwniath is a linall patch of ground, iiotv-d for producing very early barley,
whioh was th M reaping.

I'ric'S prr.vifirtns in this town wore tliefe : Brcf, (i6 ounces to tho pound) 2!d.
to <;d. ; mutton the (ame ; butter, (28 ouiicrsfo ihe pound) 'd. to 8d. ; cheefo, ditto,
4d to 4'. d. ; a large pullet, fid. or lod. ; duck, the laiiit ; goofe, cs. ■^d.

Crois tlu iiarbour to the granite quarries that eontiilnite t(> fupply London with
pa\ing (loms. Tiie Hones lie either in l.irge iio.inlis or in ihattery beds; an' cut ii\to
ihape, .and the fniall pieces for the middle of liie Itroets are put on board for feven
fliillings per ton, the long Hones at ten-peiiee jier foot.

The bridge of Die lies about two miles S. of the town, and eoiiCills of IVvcn neat
arches : befon- the building of tliat of Perth, it was clleenu\l the (in. II llrudure of the
kind in North Britain. It was foundeil, and is Milt fupported by fun ^ delHned for that
purpofc by Hilhop r.lpliinfton. 'I'he folliuving inlcripiion on the luttrefs of a ruinous
ille in the cathedral of Old Aberdeen, informs us of the archited : — ' 'I'homas, tho Ion
of I'honias I'Vench, nulter mafon, who built the bridge of the Dee and this ille, is en«
terred at the foot hereof, who (lied .inno 1530.'

Augufl 8th, vifited Old Aberdeen, about a mile north of the new; a poor town
feated not far from the Don. The college is built round a fquaro, with cloilh-rs on the
fouth fide. The chapel is very ruinous within ; but there fliil remains ioine wood-work
tit cxquifite wc^rkmanOiip. Ihis was preferved by the fpirit of the principal at tho
time of the reformation, who armed his people and checked the blind zeal of the ba-
rons of the Mearns, who after dripping the Cathedral of its rooi, and robbing it of the
bells, were going to violate this feat of learning. They (hipped tluir lacril'gious booty
with an intention to expoling it to lale in Holland * ; but the vell'el had Icurcely gone
out of port, but it perilhed in a llorm with all its ill gained lading.

'J he colle;;e wa founded in 1494 by \Villiam Elphinllon, bilhop of this place, and
I ord Chancellor ol Scotland in tlie reign of James 111. ; and Lord I'rivy Seal in that
of James IV. lie was a perfon of fuoh eminence, that his cotemporaries firmly be-
lieved that his di M'h was prtlaged by various prodigies, and that fupernatural voices
were heard at hi', interment, as if heaven more peculiarly inlerelled itlelf in the depar-
ture of lo great a character f.

I'hc library is large, 'I'he moll remarkable tilings are ; John Trevifa's trandation of
Iligdeii's Polyclnonicon, in 131S7 ; the manufcript excellently wrote, and the language
very good, for that lime. A very neat Dutch millal, with elegant paintings on the
margin. Another, of the angels appearing to the fliepherds, with one of the men
playing on the bai,'pipes. A maiuileript catalogue of the old trealury ol the college.

lleciur liotthiiis was the firft principal ot the college, and fent for from Paris fur that
purpole, on an annual falary at forty marks Scots, at thirteen-pence each. The Iquare

* SpotfwooJ'i Hift Church of Scotland.

f Bocihiiw'ii Iliil. of the Ijiiliops of Al).n!i.in.

tower

pennant's TnUR IN SCOTLAND.

<^J

handfonu* ;
t-n of the in-

liiii" liutulrcJ

I" th(> public
ry luuiUi'oine

s a fine \w\v
iMrly harloy,

loiiiul) 2!d.
-Iici-I't', ditto,

-ondon with
aiv cut into
rd for fovcn

fovon noat
dure of the
lud for that
)f a ruinous
nas, the fi>n
5 iili', is en-

poor town
Hers on the;
wood. Work
cip.il at tlif

I oft ho ha-
i'lgitof tho
^iou8 booty
"coly gone

place, and

'cal in that

liriniy bo-

II rid voices
ilic dej)ar-

inllaiion of
L' iani^u.ige
i»','s on the
t tlic men
coilci^c.
•is for that
I ho l(]uarc

tower

towcrnn the fide of the calloge was huih by contributions from General Monk and tlie
oHicors imJiT him, thou (]uartorod at Abirdoi'n, for tiie roc ption of lludents ; of
whicli there are about a huialrod belonj^in;; to the colloj;e, who lie in it.

Ill liilhop KIphiiillon's hull is a picture of liiflioii Dunbar, who finiflud thebrld-'jo of
Dee, and coinpleted every thimrelle that the other wortiiy pr -late hud b(!^;un. Ikfides
this aro portraits of Forbif, liilhopof Abordeon, and IViilellors S.uidilanil and Clordoii,
by Jamelon. 'I'he Sybils : laid lo be done by tlie fame hand, but feeniod to me ia
too dillorent a llyle to be his; but the Sybilla iKjyptiaea and Krythraia are in good
atiitudi's

'Iho cathedral is very ancient ; no more than the two v^.y antique fpires and one
illt, which is ufod as a ciiuroh, are now rom.iininj,'. '1 his l)i(hopiick was foiuuled in
the time of Daviil I. who tranfl.ited it from Mortlick in UanlKhiro to this place.

From a tumulus, callod Tille dron, now covered with trees, ia a fine view of an cx-
tonfivo and lich country; once a moll barren fpot, but by the induUry of the inhabi-
tants brouL^ht to its prolent (late. A pretty vale bordered with W' od, tiie cathedral
foaling above the trees, and the river Don, form all together a moll agreeable prof-
peel. Thefe are comprehended in the pleaiure grounds of S .\ton, the houle of George
Middleton, I'Jq. ; which lies well flioltered in the north-well ci rner of the valley, and
was probably the firll villa built in the nortii of Scotland acceding to the prefent idea
of elegance.

Beneath are fome cruives, or wears, to take falmon in. i .le own^ are obliijed by
law to make the rails of the cruives " of a certain width, to permit fill ' a certain fi/e
to pal's up the river ; but as that is noglefteJ, they pay an annual fuin l i the owners of
the fillieries which lie above to componfate the lofs.

In the Regiam Majillattin are prelervcd feveral ancien a ^ relating to tli? ialinon
fiflierics, couched in terms expreflive of the fimplicity of ti > tiii.es.

From Satuiiiay night till Monday morning, tiiey were obliged to leave a free paiFage
for the fi(h, which is (lyled the Saturdayes lloppe (.

Alexander I. enacted, 'That the ftrcamc of the water fal be in all parts fwa free,
that ane Iwine of the age of throe zoares, well fed, may turne himlMf within tlic
flroame round about, fwa that his fa )Wt nor taill fall not t(>ueh the bank of t'le s\;;ter.'

' Sl.iyors of riide iKhor fmoh s of falmoiul, the third lime are punilhed wifhtieath.
And lie like !ie quha commands 'hei'amino to bo doiio." Jac. IV. pari. b. (tat. Rob. 111.

Aiigud f)ih, ciintiiiue my journey : pal's over the bridge of Don; a fine Goihic arih
flung over thai line river, from one rock to the other ; the height from the top of the
arch to the water is fixty feet ; its width i'oventy-two. It was built by Henry de Cheyn,
Bilhop of Aberdton and nephew to John Clummin Lord of Badeuoch, who fuiforing
exile for his atiathment to the laction of th.. :.'".'nmins en his being refloivd to his foe,
applied all the pr.liis that had accumulateu :' dig his rJifonce, tovv.irds this magi id-
cout work |. Kid.- ior Come miles on the fea lands ; p;ds through Nowl^u.-gh, a liiidil
village, and ai low water ford the Yiheii, a river produclivo of the peail nuucic- : go
tiirough tlio p.irilh of Furvic, now emir '.y overwhelmed widi I'and, (oxco^it two i'arm,;)
and about 500I. per aiinum 1 'll to the Errol family, as app ars bv di • o.uh of the t'dO
tor, ii..iii botoro ilie court of fellions in 1600, to al'certain the minider'sialarv. It was
at tluu time all aiablo land, now oovL-red with (hifting lands, hko die dol'erts of Arabia,
and no veiUges lomain of any buildings, except a fmall fragment oi the ciiurch.

* Cruives, kc, lluill have iJKir litiko two irclics wide, tliat the ''ly tu.iv pi's. Rd!). T.

|. Ale.K. i. .1, KeiiU's dtotcli liilhop , 65. This i'lciate was living in 1331;

I i

•

-I
i-li

I I

i •{

i '!

t!|

MKNANT'fl TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

The countiy now grows very flat j produces oats j but the crops arc confidcriibly
worfe than in the preceding country. Reach

Bownefs, or Buchanefs, the feat of the Earl of Errol, perched, like a falcon's nefl,
on the edge of a vaft clift* above the fea. The drawing room, a large and very elegant
apartment, hangs over it ; the waves run in wild eddies round the rocks beneath, and
the fea fowl clamour above and below, forming a ftrange profpcft and fiiiguiar tiiorus.
The place was once dcfenfible, there having been a ditch and draw-bridge on the ac-
ccflible fide ; but now both are deftroyed.

Above five miles fouth is Slains, the remains of the old family caflle, fcatod flrongly
on a peninfulated rock ; out demolifhed in 1 594, by James VI. en the rebellion dI
the Earl of Huntly. Near this place are fome vaft caverns, once filled with cuiioui
flalaftical incruftations, now deftroyed, in order to be burnt into hmc ; for there i.s
none in this country, that ufeful commodity being imported from the ICarl of Elgin'?,
works on the Frith of Forth.

Here the fliore be[.;ins to grow bold and rocky, and indented in a ftrange manner
with fmall and deep creeks, or rather immenfe and horrible chafms. 'llie famous
Bui' rsof Buchan lie about a mile north of Bownefs, are a vaft hollow in a rock, pro-
jeding into the fea, open at top, with a comnmnication to the fea through a noble
natural aixh, through which boats can pafs, and lie fecurc in this natural harbour.
There is a path rcund the top, but in fome parts too narrow to walk on with fatisfac-
tion, as the depth is about thirty fathom, with water on both fides, being bounded on
the north and fouth by fmall creeks.

Near this is a great infulated rock, divided by a narrow and very deep chafm from the
land. This rock is pierced through midway between the water and the top, and in
violent ftorms the waves rufti through it with great noife and impctuofity. On the fides,
as well as thofe of the adjacent clifls, breed multitudes of kittiwakes •. The young are
a favourite difli in North Britain, being ferved up a little before dinner, as a whet for the
appetite ; but, from the rank fincU and tafte, feem as if they were more likely to have a
contrary cffe^Jt. I was told of an honeft gentleman who was fct down for the firft time
to this kind of whet, as he fuppofed ; but alter dcmoliftiing half a dozen, with much
impatience declared, that he had eaten fax, and did not find himfelf a bit more hungry
than before he had began.

On this coaft is a great fiftiery of l\\\ dogs f, which begins the laft week of July, and
ends ihc firft in September. The livers-arc boiled for oil ; the bodies fplit, dried, and
fold to the common people, who come from great diftances for them. Very fine tur-
bots are taken on this coaft ; and towards Peterhead are good filheries of cod and ling.
The lord of the manor has 3I. 69. 8d. per annum from every boat, (a fix man boat) but
if a new crew fcts up, the lord, by way of encourap;ement, finds them a boat. Befides
thefe, they have little yawls for catching bait at tlie foot of the rocks. Mulcles are alfo
iTTich ufed for bait, and many boats loads are brought for that purptifc from the mouth
of trie Vthen. C'f late years, a very fuccclsful falmon fiftiery has been fit up in the
fandy bays btlow Slains. This is performed by long nets, carried out to fea by boats,
a great compaw taken, and then hawled on ftiore. It is remarked, thefe (ilh fwuu
againft the ^ind, and arc much better tailed than thole taken in frelh waters.

M( ft cf the labour on ftiorc is performed here by the women : they will carry as
riiuch tifti as two men can lift on their Ihoulders, and wh'.'n they have fold their cargo
and emptied their balket, wiii re-place part of it with ftones : they go fixtccn miles to

Dr. Zooi. No. ijo.

I The picked Shark, Br. Zool. III. No 4c.

II feH

confidcrably

falcon's ncft,
very clcgniit
beneath, and
;ular chorus,
,e on tlic iic-

itoJ flrongiy
rehclJion oi
wiih curious
for there is
il of Elgiu'h

iige maimer
Lhe famous
I rock, pro-
gh a noble
»1 harbour,
'ith fatisfac-
)ounded on

m from the

Cop, and in

n the fides,

young are

hot for the

to have a

firft time

ivith much

•re hungry

July, and

iried, and
fine tur-
and ling,

boat) but
Befides

s are alfo

le month
p in the

)y boats,

hih fv\ini

carry as

|eir cargo

miles to

PF-NNANT 3 TOUR INT SCOTLAND.

ftH

fell or barter their fifli ; are very fond of finery, and will load their fingers with trump-
crv rings, when they want both'flioes and flockings. The fleet was the lad war fup-
plied with great numbers of men from this and others parts of Scotland, as well as the
army : I think near 70,000 engaged in the general caufe, and aflifted in carrying our
glory through all parts of the globe : of the former, numbers returned } of the latter,

very few.

'i he houfcs in this country are built with clay, tempered in the fame manner as the
Ifraelites made their bricks in the land ofyl'lgypt : after drefling the clay, and working
it up with water, the labourers place on it a largo (tratum of ili-aw, which is trampled
into it and made fmall by horfes ; then more is added, till it arrives at a proper con-
fiflency, when it is ufed as a plairtcr, and iiiakes the h<Hifes very warm. The roofs are
farked, i. e. covered with inch-and-half deal, fawed into three planks, and then nailed
to the jojlls, on which the dates are pinned.

The land profpe£t is extremely unpleafant ; for no trees will grow here, in fpite of all
the pains that have been taken: not but in for ner times it muft have been well wooded,
as is evident from the number of trees dug up in all the bogs. The fame nakednefs
prevails over great part of this coaft, even far beyond Banff, except in a few warm
bottoins.

The corn of this trad is oats and barley ; of the laft I have feen very good clofe to the
edges of the cliffs. Rents are paiil here partly in calh, partly in kind ; the lafl is com-
monly fold to a contrador. The land here being poor, is let cheap. The people live
hardly : a common food with them is fowcns, or the groffer part of the oatmeal with
the hulks, firft put into a barrel with water, in order to grow four, and then boiled in-
to a fort of pudding, or flummery.

Augufl nth, croffed the country towards Banff, over Oatlands, a coarfe fort of
downs, and feveral black heathy moors, without a fingle tree for numbers of miles.
See Craigfton caftle, a good houfe, once defenfible, feated in a fnug bottom, where the
plantations thrive greatly. Saw here a head of David Lefly, an eleve of Guftavus
Adolphus : a fuccefsful general againft the royal caufe : unfortunate when he attempted
to fupport it ; loft the battle of Dunbar, being forced to engage contrary to his judgment
by the enthufiafm of the preachers : marched with an unwilling army to the fatal battle
of Worcefter J confcious of its difaffedion or its fears, he funk beneath his apprehen-
fions ; was difpirited and confounded : after the fight, loft his liberty and reputation ;
but was reftored to both at the reftoration by Charles II. who created him Baron of
Newark. Another head. Sir Alexander Frazer, the Knight of Dores ; both by Jame-
fon. Paffed by a finall ruined caftle, in the parifh of Kinedward, feated on a round hill
in a deep glen, and fcarcc acccffible ; the ancient name of this caftle was Kin, or Kyn-
Eden, and faidto have been one of the feats of the Cummins,' Karl of Buchan. Ford
the Devron, a fine river, over which had been a beautiful bridge, now waflied away by
the floods. Knt(T Banfffhire, and reach its capital

Banff, pleafantly leated on the fide of a hill, has feveral ftreets ; but that with the
town-houfc in it, adorneil with a new fpire, is very handfome. This place was ereded
into a borough by virtue of a charter from Robert 11. dated Odober 7th, i -572, endow-
ing it with the fame privileges, and putting it on the fame footing with the bun'h of
Aberdeen; but tradition fays it was founded in the reign of Malcolm Canmore. The
harbour is very bad, as ihc entrance at the mouth of the Devron is very unccr-
tain, being often ftopped by th.e fliifting of the fands, which arc continually changing
in great (lorms : the pier is therefore placed on the outfide. Much falnxon is exjioVte'd

VOL. III. K iroin

PENNANT S TOUR JN SCOTLAND.

]>,.■

;'f!'

from hence. About Tioop-head, feme kelp is made; and the adventurers pay the
lord of the manor 50I. per annum for the I'bcrty of colletting the materials.

Banfi" iiad only one monaftcry, that of the Carmelites, dedicated to the Virgin Mary :
whofe rents, place and lands '^ero bellowed on King's College in Aberdeen in 1G17 by
James VI.

TheEarlof Finlater has a houfc, prettily featcd on an eminence near the town, with
fome plantations of flirubs and fmall trees, which have a good elfed in fo bare a coun-
try. The profpeft is very fine, commanding the rich meadows near the town, Down a
fmall but well-built fifhing town, the great promontory of Troop-hcad, and to the north
the hills of Rofsfliire, Sutherland, and Caithnefs.

The houfe once belonged to the Sharps ; and the violent archbiihop of that name was
born here. In one of the npartments is a picture of Jamefon by himfelf, fitting in his
painting-room, drefled like Rubens, and wiih his baton, and his pallet in his hand.
On the walls are reprefented hung up, the pictures of Charles I. and his Queen ; a head
of his own wife j another head ; two lea views, and Perfeus and Andromeda, the pro-
dudions of his various pencil.

Dufflloufe, avail pile of building, a little way from the town, is a fquare,with a
fquare tower at each end ; the front richly ornamented with carving, but, for want of
U'ings, has a naked look : the rooms within are very fmall, and by no means anfwcr the
magnificence of the cafe.

In the apartments are thefe pidurcs : Frances, Dutchcfs of Richmond, full length,
in black, with a little piclure at her hreall, JV.u 57, 1C33, ^Y Vandyck : was grand-
daughter by the f;:ithor to Thomas Duke of Norfolk; to Ldward Stailord Duke of Buck-
ingham, by the moth'.'r. A lady who attempted the very climax of matrimony: firlt mar-
ried the fon of a rich vintner : gave hopes after his death to a knight. Sir G. Rodney,
who on being jilted by her for an earl, Kdward Earl of Hertford, wrote to her in his owix
blood a well compofed copy of verl'c?, and then fell on his fword ; having buried the
Earl, gave her hand to Ludovic I)i ke of Richmond and Lenox, and on !iis deceafe
Iprcad her nets for the old monarch imwj I. Her avarice kept pace with her var.ity :
when vifited by the great, Ihe hail all the parade of odicers, and gentlemen who at-
tended : tables were fpread, a? if there hnd been ample provifion ; j'lt the moment
her vifitors were gone, the clotI"i>; were taken oil", and her train led wivh a mull fcanty
fare. Her pride induced her to draw up an inventory o( moll magiiiiicent prelcnts, (he
wilhed the world to believe (he had given to the Oueen of Bohemia ; pre'ents of mafly
plate that exilted only ou a paper •. Befides this fingular tharader, are two line heads
of Charles 1. and his (^ucen. A head of a Dulf of Corfeuday, with (laori grey hair, by
Cofmo Alexander, delcendant of the famoua Jamelon. Near thehoujfe is a flirubbcry,
with a walk two miles long, leading to the river.

I muft not be filent rcTpcding the Reverend Mr. Charles Cor liner, miniller at the
cpifcopal chapel at Banff. He lias made his abilities fulHciently known by liis feveral
ingenious publications : and I mvift exprels ray happinels in having been the caule of
bringing them to ihc view of the , ublic, much to its entertainment, and I Hatter myfelf
not a little fo his own benefit, and that ui his numerous family. When I had publilhed
the laft volume of my tours in Scotland, 1 reflecled that th.re were certain parts which
I had not been able to vifit. I prevailed on Mr. tiuruiuerto undertake the tour which
appeared in 1780, under the title of Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Scotland,

• Viklc W'ilfon'i Lile of jam«« I, J58, 259.

iiluflrated

.' ;*

'J»

PENNANT'S TOUR IN SCOTLAND. OJ

jlluftrated by twenty-one plates taken from his own beautiful drawings. He afterwards
publiflied, and continues to publini, in numbers, the mofl remarkable ruins, and fub-
jeds of natural hiltory he met with in his journies through the northern parts of his
country. Thefe, I hope, will meet the encouragement they merit, and his labours
receive their due reward.

Aug. 12. About two miles weft of Banff, not far from the fea, is a great fl:ratun\
of i'and and (hells, ufed with fuccefs as a manure. Sea tang is alio much ufed for
corn lands, fomctinies by itfelF, fometimes mixed with earth, and left to rot ; it is be-
fides often laid freih on gral's, and anfwers very well. Palfed by the houfeof Bjyne, a
ruined caftle on the edge of a deep glen, filled with feme good afli and maples.

Near Portfoy, a fmall town in the parifh of Fordyce, is a large ftratum of marble, in
V'hich albeftos has been fometimes found : it is a coari'e fort of verd di Corfica, and
ufed in fome houfes for chimney-pieces. Portfoy is the principal place in this parifh,
and contains about fix hundred inhabitants, who carry on a confiderable thread marm-
fadure, and one of fnufi": there alio belong to the town twelve fliips, from forty to a
hundred tons burthen; and there aie in the parifh fix filhing boats, eachofwhofe
crew confifts of fix men and a boy. Reach

Cullen-houfe, feated at the edge of a deep glen full of very large trees, which,
being out of the reach of the feu winds, profper greatly. This fpot is very prettily
laid out in walks, and over the entrance is a magnificent arch fixty feet high, and
eighty-two in width. The houfe is large, but irregular. The moft remarkable pidtures
are, a full length of James VI. by Mytens : at the time of the Revolution, the mob had
taken it out of Holy-rood Houfe, and were kicking it about the ftreets, when the Chan-
cellor, theEarlof Finlater, happening to pafs by, redeemed it out of their hands. A
portrait of James Duke of Hamilton, beheaded in 1 649, in a large black cloak, with a
Itar, by Vandyck. A half length of his brother, by the fame, killed at the battle of
Worccfler. William Duke of Hamilton, prefident of the Revolution Parliament, by
Knellei". Old Lord Banff, aged 90, with a long white fquare beard, who is faid to
have incurred the cenfure of the church, at that age, for his gallantries *.

Nryt far from Cullen-houfe are the ruins of the caflle of Finlater, fituated on a high
rock, projeSing into the fea. It was ftrengthened in 1455 by Sir Walter Ogilvie,
who had licence frc.n James II. to build a tower and fortalice at his caill:; of Finlater.
It continued in poffeflion of the family till it was ufurped by the family of the Gordons ;
but was reftored to the right heirs about the year 1562, by Queen Mary, who for 'hat
inivpofe caufed it to be inverted both by fea and land.

The country round Cullen has all the marks of improvement, owing to the f inde-
fatigable pains of the late noble owner, in advancing the art of agriculture and plamino-,
and every other ufeful bufinefs, as far as the nature of the foil would admit. His <i.ic-
cefs in the firft was very great ; the crops of beans, peas, oats, and barley were ex-
cellent ; the wheat very good, but through the fault of the climate, will not ripen till
it is late, the harvefb in thefe parts being in Oftober. The plantations are very ex-

• Among other piAurea of perfons of merit, that of the admirable Crichton mud not be overlooked. I
was infoinicd, that >hcrc i> one of tliat cxMaordiiiary perfoii iu the poflelTioii of Alcxaodcr Morrifon, Efq.
(if Bagnir, in 'lie (.ouiity of liaiifF^ it u in tiic famo apartment witli fome of Janiefmra, bnt fetms done
by a fiijii riov hand : came into Mr. Mornfon's puiliflion from the family of Crichton, Vifcount i rend-
raught, to whom Crichton probably fcnt it from Italy, whtre he fpent the lall years of his fliort, but
glorious life. Vide Appendix.

f His Lordflup collected together near zcoo fouls to hia new ttiwn at Keith, by feuing, i. e. giving in
pcpctuity, on payment of a flight acknowledgment, land futlicient to build a houl'e on, with gardens and
back yard,

K 2 . tenfivc,

PENNANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

tcnfive, and reach to the top of liinn-hlll, but tlic farther they extend from the bot-
toms, the worfe they fucceed.

The town of Culleii is mean, yet has about a hundred looms in it ; there being a
flourifliing manufa£ture of linen and thread, of which near fifty thoufand pounds
worth is annually made there and in the neighbourhood. Upwards of two thou-
fand bolls of wheat, barley, oats, and meal are paid annually by the tenants to
their landlords, and by them fold to the merchant and exported : and befides, the
upper parts of the parilh yield peas, and great quantiaesof oals, which are fold by thofe
tenants who pay their rents in callu

Near this town the Duke of Cumberland, after his march from BaniF, joined the
reft of his forces from Strath-Bogie, and encamped at CuUen.

In a fmall fandy bay arc three lofty fpiring rocks, formed of flinty maffes, cemented
together very differently from any ftratum in the country. Thefe are called the
Three Kings of L'ullen. A little farther is another vaft rock, pierced quite through
formed of pebbly concretions lodged in ciay, which had fubfided in thick but regular
layers.

In this country are fcveral cairns or barrows, the places of interment of the antient
Caledonians, or of the Danes, for the method was common to both nations. At
Craig-mills near Glaffaugh was a very remarkable onedemoliflied about fourteen years
ago. The diameter was fixty feet, the height fixteen ; formed entirely of llones
brought from the fhore, as ajjpcars by the limpets, mufcles, and other fhells mixed
wuh them. The whole was covered with a layer of earth four feet thick, and that
finiflied with a very nice coat of green fod, inclofing the whole. It feems to have been
originally formed by making a deep trench rour.d the fpot, and flinging the earth in-
wards : then other n^iterials brought to complete the work, which mull have been
that of an whole army. On breaking open this cairn, on tlie fummit of the ftony heap
beneath the integument of earth was found a ftone cotfin formed of long flags, and
it the complete ikeleton of a human body, lain at full length, with every bone in its
proper place ; and with them a deer's horn, the fymbol of the favourite a:nufement of
the deceafed.

About five years ago another cairn was broke open at Kil-hiilock, or the hill of burial,
and in it was found another coffin about fix feet long, with a flceleton., an urn, and
feme charcoal : a confiderable deal of charcoal was alfo met with internnxed ev.'^ry
where among the ftones of the cairn. By this it appears that the mode of interment
was various at the fame period ; for one of thcfe bodies »nuft have been placed entirely
in its cemetry, the other burnt, and the afhes collected in the urn.

A third cairn on th',' farm of Brankancntim near Kil-hillocK, was opened vcr)' lately;
and in the middle was found a coffin only two feot fquure, made of flag-ftones fct on
ti.eir edge, and another by way of cover. 'J"he urn was feated on the ground, filled
with afhes, and was furrounded in the coffin with charcoal and bones, probably bo; ps
belonging to the fame body, vhich had not been reduced to afhes like the contents of
the urn.

A fourth urn was difcovercd in a cairn on the hill of Down, overlooking the river
IVv/on, anil town of Banff. This was alfo placed in a coffin of flat ftones, with the
n.outh downwards, ftanding on another ftone. The urn was ornamented, but round,
it were placo«l three others, fuiaHcr afid quite plain. The contcn s of each were the
fai.ic ; aflus, burtit bones, fliiit arrow heads w.ih almoft vitrified furfaccs, and a piece
oi flint o an oval fhape flatted, two inches long, and an inch and ahalfthicic. There
was alfo ia ih; 'ar^'tr ur.i, and one of the loflbr, a fmall flcnder bone four inches

8 long,

rENNANT*8 TOUR IN SCOTLAKD.

m the hot.

ere being a
and pounds
two thou-
tenants to
aefides, tlie
>ld by thofe

joined the

I, cemented

called the

ite through

but regular

the antient
tions. At
rteen years
Y of (tones
lells mixed
, and that
• have been
le earth in-
have been
ftony heap
Hags, and
bone in its
ufement of

II of burial,
L urn, and
ixed ev!?ry
interment
:ed entirely

'cry lately;
>nes fet on
und, filled
ably bo: os
:onttnts of

5 the river
i, with the
but round
I were the
nd a piece
it. 'I'll ere
3ur inches
long,

long, and fon^ewhat incurvated and perforated at the thicker end : it is apparently not
human j but the animal it belonged to, and the ufe are unknown.

The materials of the urns appear tc have been found in the neighbourhood ; andcon-
fift of a coarfe clay mixed with fmall ftones and fand, and evidently have been only dried,
and not burnt. By the appearance of the infide of the larger urn, it is probable that
it was placed over the boms while they were hot and full of oil ; the whole infide being
blackened with the fleam > and where it may have been fuppofed to have been ia
rontatl with them, the ftain pervades the entire thicknefs. The urn was thirteen
inclics high.

Befides is a numerous affemblage of cairns on the Cotton-hill, a mile fouth of Bir-
kenbog, probably in memory of the flain in the viftory obtained in 998, by Indulphus,
over the Danes. The battle chiefly raged on a moor near Cu. 'en, where there are
fimilar barrows ; but as it extended far by reafon of the * retreat of the vanquifhed,
thefe feem to be flung together with the fame defign.

Not far from thefe are two circles of long ftones, called Gael crofs : perhaps they
might have been ereSed after that battle ; and as gaul is the Erfe word for a ftranger
or enemy f, as the Danes were, I am the more inclined to fuppofe that to have been
the faft.

Nor is there wanting a retreat for the inhabitants in time of war ; for round the
top of the hill of Durn is a triple entrenchment ftill very diftinft ; the middle of ftone,,
and very ftrong in the moft acceflible place ; and fuch faftneflfes were far from being.
unnecelTary in a traft continually expofed to the ravages of the Danes.^

The vault of the family of the Abercrombies in this parifh muft not be pafled over
in filence : it is lodged in the wall of the church, and is only the rppofitory of the
fculis. The bodies are depofited in the earth beneath ; and when the Laird dies, the'
fcull of his predeceflTor is taken up and flung into this Golgotha, which at prefent is in
pofleflion of nineteen.

Some fuperftitions ftill lurk even in this cultivated country. The farmers carefully
preferve their cattle againft witchcraft by placing boughs of the mountain afti and
honeyfuckle in their cow houfes on the 2d of May. They hope to preferve the milk
of their cows, and their wives from mifcarriage by tying red threads about them : they
bleed the fuppofed witch to preferve themfelves from her charms : they vifit the well
of Spcy for many diftempers, and the well of Drachaldy for as many, offering fmall!
pieces of money and bits of rags. The young people determine the figure and fize of
their hulbands by drawing cabbages blindfold on All-Hallows even ; and, Uke the
l-'.nglifh, fling nuts into the fire ; and in February draw valentines, and from them col-
left their future fortune in the nuptial ftate.

Every great family had in former times its daemon, ' ^ ■ genius, with its peculiar attri-
butes. Thus the family of Rothemurchus had the .■ <dach an dun, or ghofl: of the
hill. Ki'ichardine't, the fpedre of the bloody hand. Gartinbeg-houfe was haunted
by Bodach Gartin ; and TuUoch Gorms by Maug Moulach, or the girl with the hairy
left hand. The fynod gave frequent orders that inquiry fhou!d be made into the truth
of this apparition : and one or two declared that they had leen one that anfwered the
dcfcription J.

The little fpedres called Tarans §, or the f \h of unbaptized inf^Ts, were often
feen flitting among the woods and fecret places, bewailing in Ibt't voi. -, icir hard fate.

♦ Bitchanan, lib. vi. c. 19.

I Shaw's Hiftgry of Moray, 30C.

I Doftor Macpherroii, p r^o.
§ I('«tn, 307.

Could

7'-. PINNfANT'fl TOUa IN SCOTLAND.

Cuiild n^f fupci'flition have likcwlfe '■■litcd thoir fuircrinRS ; anJ, like tho wauJcilng
ghofts of tlic unbiiricJ, at length give! thcin an Elyfiiiin ?

Cfnlum errnnt aiinos, voliunt Iixc littora circum :
Turn ilcmum admidi ttagna cxnptata levit'uut.

PafTed through a fine open country, full of gonlc ririn,c;s, and ridi in corn, with a
few chimps of trrcs fparingly fcattc-rcd over i', (iroat ufc is niatio Iiltc ui ilmic ;)i..ik',
a gritty iiuluratcd niai k-, found in va(l llrata, dipping'; pretty niucii : it is of* ditlVreni;
colours, blue, pale brown, and reddilb ; is cut out of the quarry, and luid vory tidck m
the ground in lumps, but will not wiu, !y dilTclve under three rr iou/yeaij,> In Uie
quarry is a groat deal of fparry matter, which is laid apart, and bu:ni for Hinc. A"-
rive at

Cad le Gordon, a large old houfc, the 'oat of th>. Dul e of (Gordon, Iving in a low
wet country, near fime large well-grown woods, an^' a <!>nfidera' ie one ot great hollies.
It was founded by George fecond Earl ot [Iu))tly, whi> I i! in 150;, and was originally
called the caftle of the bog of Gight. It iniii rited, til! . ; iate, very little of "ts antient
fplendo! ; biit the prefent Duke has mad'.' confidcrable additioir in a v ry elegant ii\ ie.
By accident 1 met with an old print that (hews ii in all tlv :i,ag"iiKceK-e Jefcrihed by a.
fmguiar £1: v( !ler of the middle 0" the !a(l century. " Begat ieff," fays he, ' he
Marqtiis o) iivntly's o, Ijce, all b-,;.!t of ftone facing the oce;:i , w!<rif(> fair front (let
preji;d:cL iiide) worth::' tliifcrves an Englifliman's applaufe for her l^fty and majclUc
towers and furrctp, iha; i\orm ;h': air; a'lJ lecnungly make dents in the very clouds.
At firft light, T muit confei'i, it i.uck. me with admiration to gaze on io gaudy and re-
gular a fronrifp'ef t, more clr"<'i dly ro confidor it in the nook of a n;ifion •.**

The principal pictures ia Ci/'Je Gordon are, the firft Marquis of liuntly, who, on his
firfl arrival at r.i ir.rt, forgetting the \.\\\^^\ obeifancc, was alkcd why lie did not bow :
he begge ' His M ijv'lly's pardon, and excufed his want of refpeft, by faying he was
jufl come from a place wljorc every body bowed to him. Second Marquis of Huntly,
beheaded by tho Covenanter;?. Mis fon, the gallant Lord Gordon, Montrole's friend,
killed at the battl^ of Auldlord, Lord Lewis Gordon, a lefs generous warrior, the
I'isgue i of the peopl of Murray, (then the feat of the Covciiaiit<M-s) whofe character,
V..U? that of the brave Montrofe, is well contraOed in thefe old lines :

If ye wi'ih Nfontroff (jst, ye'l f:cl fic and w.it enough j
If ye vfith Lord Lewis gae, yt'l g':t rob and rave enough.

The hv ; of the feccnd Countefs of iluntly, daughter of James T. Sir Peter Frafer,
a full kngtb in armour. A fine fmall portrait of the Abbe de Aubigne, fitting in his
Iludy. A very fine head of St. John receiving the Kevelation ; a beautiful cxpreflioii
of attention and d'vorion.

Th. Duke of Cordon ftill keeps up the diverfion of falconry, and had feveral fine
hawks of the peregrine and gentle falcon fpccies, which breed in the rocks of Glen-
more. ! law alfo here a true Highland grey-hound, which is now become very fcarce :

• Ni^rthfrn Memoirs, ».c. by Richard Frsaiks, Philantliropus. London, 169^. lamo. This gentle-
ni^n madt liir, Jourrey in 165K, and Aen: thioiigh Scutland is far a« t'le water ot Broia ia Sutherland, to
enjoy, as lie tr;ivrlUd, ihe amuicment of ai. idling.
I Wb i. -r tiiit proverb.

The guil, the Gordon, and the hooded craw.
Were tlie three word things M'liray cv^r faw.

Oui! is a we d th.it infefta corn. It was from the callle of Rothes, on che Spey, thai Lewij made

Jjifv plundtrirg ex:urfiori» into Murr.iy.

'4 it

wauJcilng

orn, with a

of cIIlUTv-nt

ry thick m

J.. la !.io

liint\ A""

(T ill a \o\v
rcat hollies,
s originall/

•ts antient
?gant a\i<<.
;rihed by a

uc, • he
■ front (let
id iiiajeftic
?ry clouds,
dy and re-

vho, on his
not bow :
ng he was
3f Huntly,
e's friend,
irrior, the
charader.

er Frafcr,
ing in his
'xprcflion

vcral fine
of Glen,
y fcarce :

Ilia gentle
hcrUiid, to

«■'

%>'••

¥.

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

7«

it was or a very large fize, ftrong, deep charted, and covered with very long and
roujh liair. Ihis kind was in great vogue in former days, and ufed in vaft numbers at
the magnificent flag-chafes, by the powerful chieftains.

I alio faw here a dog the offspring of a wolf and Pomeranian bitch. It had much
the appearance of the firft, was very good-natured and fportive ; but being flipped at a
weak deer, it inftantly brought the animal down and tore out its throat. This dog was
bred by Mr. Brook, aniniiil-mcrchant in London, who told me that the congrefs be-
tween the wolf and the bitch was immediate, and the produce at the litter was ten.

The Spey is a dangerous neighbour to Caftle Gordon ; a large and furious river,
overflowing very frequently in a dreadful manner, as appears by its ravages far beyond
its banks. The bed of the river is wide and full of gravel, and the channel very fhift-

iiig.

The Duke of Cumberland palTed this water at Belly church, near this place, wheil
the channel was lb deep as to take an oflicer, from whom I had the relation, and who
was fix feet four inches high, up to the breafl. The banks are very high and fleep ;
fo that, h3d not the rebels been providentially fo infatuated as to neglect oppofition,
the paftagc mud: have been attended with conliderable lofs.

The falmon fifliery on this river is very great : about leventeen hundred barrels full
are caught in the feafon, and thefliore is rented for about 1200I. per annum.

Augufl: 14th, pafTed through Fochabers, a wretched town, clofe to the cafllc."
Croffed the Spey in a boat, and landed in the county of Murray.

The pealants' houfes, which, throughout the fhire of Banft' were very decent, were
now become very miferable, being entirely made of turf: the country partly moor,
partly cultivated, but in aveiy fluvenly manner.

Between Fochabers and Elgin on the right lies Inncs, once the feat of the very an-
cient family of that name, whofe annals are marked with great calamities. I fliall recite
two which flrongly paint the manners of the times, and one of them alio the manners of
that abandoned flatefman the Regent Earl of Morton. I fhall deliver the tales in the
fimpic manner they are told by the hiftorian of the houfe.

" Tliis mui Alexander Innes 20th heir of the houfe (though very gallant) had
fomctlnng of particularyty in his temper, was proud and pofitive in his deportment,
and had his lavvfuits with feverall of his friends, amongd the rell with Innes of Peth-
nock, which had brought them both to Edinburgh in the yeir 1576, as I take it, q"
tl'.e laird huvoing met his kinfman at the crofs, fell in words with him for dareing to give
him a citation ; in choller either flabed the gentleman with a degger or pilloled him
(for it was varioufly reported). When he had done, his flomach would not let him fly
bnt he wdku! up and doun on the fpott as if he had done nothing that could be
i^uareled, his friends lyfe being a thing that he could difpofe of without being bound to
tuuut for it to any e vn. and y" flayed till the I'.arle of Mortune who was Regent fent
a guard and caried him away to the cadell, but q" he found truely the danger of his
ciicuniRance and y' his proud rafh adion behooved to cofl him his lyfe, he was then
free to redeem that at any rate and made ane agreement for a remiffione with the re-
gent at the pryce of the barrcny of Kilmalemnock which this day extends to 24 thou-
fand marks rent yJrIy, The evening after the agreement was made and writt, bcinf
^aLr^•^ al. ; ;s friends al acuUatione and talkhig anent the deirnefs of the ranlome the
re ;;. oade mau*. hiir pay for his lyfe, he waunted that hade his foot once loofs he
..id i^ainc fee q' tin ! irle cf Tdortune durft come and poflefs his lands: q'" being
..lid to the r- gent that night, he r folved to play fuir game with him, and therefore
vtioiigh q' he Ipokc was ui drink, the very nc.\t day he put the fentencc of death in cxe-

cutioni;

J h.

I a^

72 PENMAVT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

cutione ag' hlin by caufing his head to be flrack of In the caftlc and q' poflTcfl his
cnatc."

The other relation, fllll more extraordinarv, is givon in the appendix.

Dine at Elgin •, a pood town, with ma-^y 01 the hoiifes built over piazzas: except-
ing its greht cattle fairs, has little trade , hut is . emarkable for its i i-clcfiadical anti-
quities. The cathedral had been a magnificenr pi'e, but is now in ruins : it was de-
llroyod by reafon of the fale of the lead that c«^verod the roof, wliich was done in 1567,
by order of council, to fupport the foldicry of the regent Murray. Johnflon, in his
Encomia Urbium, celebrates the beauty of Elyin, and laments the fate of this noble
building.

Arcihus heronm niiiJin iirbs cingitiir, Iiitii*

Plfhf i radiant, noblliumque Lsrci :
Omnia dilcrtant, vctcris feil nulcra fempli

Dum ipciflaii, lachrymii, Scotia, tinge genai.

The wed door is very elegant, and richlv omaincnted. The choir very beautiful, anil
has a fine and light gallery running round it ; and at the eafl end are two rows of nar-
row windows in an excellent Gothic tarte. The chapter houfe is an odagon, the roof
fupported by a fine fingle column, with neat carvings of coats of arms round the capi-
tal. There is flill a great tower on each fide of this cathedral ; but that in the c»;/itre,
with the fpire and whole roof, are fallen in, and form mod awful fragments, mixed with
the battered monutnents of knights and prelates. Boethius fays that Duncan, who
was killed by Macbeth at Invernefs, lies buried bete. Numbers of modern tomb-fones
aifo crowd the place ; a proof how difficult it is to eradicate the opinion of local fanclity,
even in a religion that affeds to defpife it.

The cathedral was founded by Andrew de Moray t in 1224, on a piece of land
granted by Alexander the II. : and his remains were depofited in the choir under a
tomb of blue marble in 1244. The great tower was built principally by John Innes,
biftiop of this fee, as appears by the infcription cut on one of the great pillars : Hie
jacet in Xto Pater ct Dominus, Dominus Johannes dc Innes hujus ccclefia: epifcopus—
qui hoc notabile opus inccpit et per feptennium edificavit t.

This town had two convents; one of Dominicans, founded in 1233 or 1244, by
Alexant^er II. ; another of Obfervantinei, in 1479, by John Innes.

About a mile from hence is the caflle of Spinie ; ? large fquare tower, and avail
quantity of other luined buildings, flill remain, which (hews its ancient r'.agnificence
vhilll the refidence of the bifliops of Murray : the lake of Spinie almofl wafhes the
walls; is about five miles long, and a half mile broad, fituated in a flat ct)untry.
During winter, great numbers of wild fwans migrate hither ; and I have been told that
Ionic have bred here. Boethius § fays they refort here for the fake of a certain herb
called after their name.

Not far from Elgin is a ruined chapel and preceptory, called Maifon Dieu. Near it
is a large gravelly cliff, from whence is a beautiful view of the town, cathedral, a round
hill with the remains of a caftle, and beneath is the gentle flream of the LafTie, the
Loxia of Ptolemy.

• Cell ice Billf villp In the A ppenilix la a full and accurate account not only of Elgin, but of feveral
part* of the county of Murray, by the venerable Mr. Shaw, Miiiiftcr uf Elgin, aged ninety, sud rminei.t
for b's knowledge of the antlouit'eB of hit country

f Ktilh'" Rifhnpn of Scotland. 8 1
^ fccotoriini Regni Defer, ix.

I MS. Hid. of the Innes family.

Three

loflTcfl his

;: cxccpN
tical anti-
it was ile-
: in 1567,
Ion, in his
this nuble

jtiful, anil
vs of nar-
I, the roof
1 the capi-
he ce/itre,
lixed with
ican, who
nib-fl ones
il fanc\ity,

ce of land
r under a
)hn Innes,
lars : Hie
)ifcopus—

1244, by

ind a vafl
t^nificcnce
k'afhcs the
country.
1 told that
rtain herb

Near it
1, a round
Laflie, the

ut of ffvcral
iiiJ rroinei.t

Three

pennant's TOUA in SCOTLAND. 73

Three miles fouth is the Priory of Plufcairdin, in a mod fequeflercd place j a beauti-
ful ruin, the arches elegant, the pillars well turned, and the capitals rich*.

Crofs the Lolfie, ride along the edge of a vale, which has a ftrangc mixture of goo4
corn, and black turbories : on the roadfide is a mill-ftone quarry.

Arrive in the rich plain of Murray, fertile in corn. The upper parts of the country
produce great numbers of cattle. The view of the Firth of Murray, with a full proi-
pcd of the high mountains of Rofsfliire and Sutherland, and the magnificent entrance
into the b;iy of Cromartie between two lofty hills, form a fine piece of fcenery.

Turn about half a mile out of the road to the north, to fee Kinlofs an abbey of
Ciilcrcians, founded by David I. in 1150. Near this place was murdered by thieves
DulFus, King of Scotland : on the difcovcry of his concealed body it vas removed to
Jona, and interred there with the rcfpett due to his merit. The Prior's chamber, two
I'eniicircular arches, the pillars, the couples of feveral of the roofs afford fpecimens of .
the molt beautiful Gothic architecture, in all the elegance of fnnplicity, without any of
irs fantaflic ornaments. Near the abbey is an orchard of apple and pear trees, at lead
coeval with the laft Monks ; numbers lie proftrate ; their venerable branches feem to
liave taken frefli roots, and were loaden with fruit, beyond what could be expeded
from their antique look.

Near Forres, on the roadfide, is a vaft column, three feet ten inches broad, and one
foot three inches thick : the height above ground is twenty-three feet ; below, as it is
faid twelve or fifteen. On one fide are numbers of rude figures of animals, and armed
men, with colours flying : fome of the men feemed bound like captives. On the op-
pofite fide was a crofs, included in a circle, and raifed a little above the furface of the
ftone. At the foot of the crofs are two gigantic figures, and on one of the fides is fome
elegant f .°t-work.

This ij called King Sueno's ftone ; and feems to be as Mr. Gordon t conjeftures,
credled by vhe Scots, in memory of the final retreat of the Danes : it is evidently not
Danifli, as fome have afferted ; the crofs difproves the opinion, for that nation had not
then received the light of chriftianity.

On a moor not far from Forres, Boi..;aus, and Shakefpear fron; him. places the ren-
countre of Macbeth and the three wayward fillers or witches. It v.i. .• y fortune to
meet with but one, which was fomewhere not rcmofc Irom the ruij ;f Kyn-Eden :
jhe was of a fpecies far more dangerou;; than thcfe, but neither withered, nor wild in
her attire, but fo fair.

She look'd not like an inhabitant o' th' earth !

Boethius tells his ftory admirably well : bui entirely confines it to the predictions of
the three fatal fillers, which Shakefpear has fo finely copied in thelVth fcene of the ifl
att. The poet, in conformity to the belief of the times, calls them witches ; iu fadt
they were the Fates, the Valkyrioc J of the northern nations, Gunna, Kota, and Skulda,
the handmaids of Odin, the ardic Mars, and ftylcd the chufers of the llain, it being
their olHce in battle to mark thofe devoted to death.

• As I was iiifotmed, for 1 did not fee this ctlebrated abbey. f Itin, Scpter.tr. i 58.

I From Waliir, (ij;i.ifying tlic (l;iiif;liter in battle, and Kyi ia to obtain by choice : for their cflice, be-
fides filtding out tlioie that were to die in battle, was to coiiduCl them to Valhalla, the paradifc of the
brave, the hall of Odin. Thtir numbers are different, fome make them three, others twelve, others four-
teen ; arc dcfcribedas bti. ;j very beautiful, covered wiih the featlicrs of the fwans, and armed with fpear
and helmet. Vide Iknholinus dc cauf. contempt, mortis. ^^^, ^^^, & octse vet. Stephanii in tjh.x.
Gra;. '<8. & Tovfxus. p. 36

*:*%v

^^M^^

74 pennant's tour w Scotland.

We the reini to flaogliter give,

Gun to kill, nixl our* to Tpara :
, Kpitc of danger txr fliall live,

' (Weave tlic ft imfon web ol' war) ••

Boethius, fcnfible of part of their Lufincfs, calls tliem Parcae : and Shakcfpear intro*
duces them juft going upon their employ,

When fliall we three meet again
In thundir. '■ . • i ^ crinr-In?
When thj. :.u 'm i Jne,
Wh'' (uf bjMW'" loll or won.

But all the fine incantations that iucteed, are borrowed from the fanciful Diablerics of
old times, but fublimed, and puiged from all that is ridiculous by the creative genius of
the inimitable poet, of whom DryJen fo juflly fpoaks :

But Shake fpear's magic couM not copied be,
Witliin that circle none durft wa'k Hi ■.

We laugh at the magic of others ; but Shakefpcar's makes us tremble. The windy
caps t of King Eric, and the vendible knots of wind n{ the Finland | magicians ap-
pear infinitely ridiculous } but when our poet dreilcs up the fame idea, how horrible is
the ftorm he creates '

Thoiij^h you untie the winds, and let them fight

Agu.nlt the churches ; though the yelty waves

..oil found and fwalinw nnvigalion up ;

Though bladed corn be lodged and trees blown down ;

Tlinugh cafllei top|)le on their warder'* heads ;

Though pilaces and pyramid) do (lope

Theit lieadi t ;heir foundations } thou;ih the treafure

Of nature's germins tumble all lugcthcr,

F.ven till deltiudtlon ficken, anfwcr me

To what I alk.

Lay at Forres, a very reat town, feated under fome little hills, which are prettily di-
vided. In the £;reat ftreet is a town-houfe with a handfome cupola, and at the end is
an arched gateway, which has a good effeft. On a hill weft of the town are the poor
remains ofthecaftle, from whence is a fine view of a rich country, interfperfed with
groves, the bay of Findorn, a fine bafon, almoft round, with a narrow ftrait into it from
the fea, and a melancholy profped of the eftate of Cowbin, in the parifh of Dyke, now
nearly overwhelmed with (and. This ftran^i: int.ndation is ftill in motion, but moftly
in the time of a welt wind. It moves along the furface with an even progreflion, but
is ftopped by water, after which *r forms liti'.e hills : its motion -s fo quick, that a gen-
tleman affured me he had feen an a; ple-trce fo coveii a with it, in one feafon. as to leave
only a few of the green leaves of the upper branches appearing above the furface. An
eftate of .\bout 300I. per annum has been thus overwhelmed ; and it is not long fincc
the chimnies of 'le principal hnufcs ere to be feen : it began abc ut eighty years ago,
occafioned by the cutting down the trees, and pulling up the bent, or Uarwort, vhich

* Gray.

f King Eric was a great magician, who by turning his r p, cBw.cd the wind to blow acccraing to hit
mind.

^ Solebant aliquando Finni, negctiatoribus in eorum 1. i u« c itraria ventorum tempeftate impeditij,
vtntum »enalcm ixhibere, mercedcquc ohiata, ire« ni il^-s icus on caflloticos Ito conliriclos eifdem

reddere, eo feivato niodctai;; iic et ubi pr;mu.-n Jiflblvcin', .uiio* abercnt placidoc ; ubi alterum, vchc-
mentiores ; at ubi tcrtium Lixaverint ita fxvai tcn)pcfta:>.s fc paiTurot, &c. OUui .Magnus dc Cient.
Sept. 97.

gave

!!■

►f^hawt's Took in scoTLAN&t

ear mtro*

iblerlcs of
genius of

rhe windy
;icians ap«
horrible is

"fvave octfafion at laft to the a(. jth G. II. to prevent its farther ravages, by proliibiting
ilie dedruftion of that pl.mt.

A little N. E. of the bay of Findorn is a piece of land projc£ting into the fca, calli d
Brugh or Burgh. It appears to have been the landing-place of the Danes in their de»
ftruSive defcents on the rich plains of Murray : it is fortilkd with foflcs} and was well
adapted to fccure either their landing or their retreat.

Aug. 15. Crofs the Findorn; land near a friable rock of whitifh flonc, much tinged
with green, an indication of copper. The ftonc is burnt for lini.'. From an aiijuccnt emi-
nence is a piihircfque view of Forres. About thrcf miles farthi r is Tarnaway cafllc, tlio
ancient feat of the Earls of Murray. The hall, called Randolph's-hall, from its founder
F;irl Randolph, one of the great fupporters of Robert Bruce, is timbered at top like
Weftminfter-hall : its dinicnfions are 79 feet by 35, to inches, and feems a fit refort
for barons and their vaflals. In the rooms are Ibme good he uds : one of a youth, with
a ribband of fome order hanging from his neck. Sir William Balfour, with a black
body to his veil, and brown fleeves, a gallant commander on the parliament's fide in
the civil wars, celebrated for his retreat with the body of horfe from Ldhvithiel in
face of thp king's army ; but julUy branded with ingratitude to his mailer, who by his
favour to Sir William in the beginning of his reign, added to the popular difcontents
then arifing. The Fair, or Bonny Earl of Murray, as he is commonly called, v ho
was murdered, as fuppofed, on account of a jealoufy James VI. entertained of a p.vfTion
the queen had for him j at lead fuch was the popular opinion, as appears from the old
ballad on the occafion :

jrettity di-
the end is
; the poor
!rfed with
to it from
)yke, now
)ut moilly
flion, but
hat a gen-
is to leave
:e. An
long fmcc
years ago,
jrt, which

ruing to lilt

te impcditis,
icilos cifdem
;eriim, velic-
i« dc Gent.

gave

He was a braw gallant,

And he played at the gluve * ;
And the bunny Earl of Murray,

Oh ! he vas the queen's love.

There are befides, the heads of his lady and daughter, all on wood, except that of the
Earl. To the fouth fide of the caftle are large birch woods, abounding with ilags and
rocs.

Continued my journey wed of Auldearne : am now arrived again in the country
where theErfe fervice is performed. Ju(t beneath the church is the place where Mon-
ti )k obtained a fignal vii^ory over the Covenanters, many of whole bodies lie in the
c! jrch, ^yith an infcription, importing, according to the cant of the time, that they
di d fighting for their religion and their king. I was told this anecdote of that hero :
that he always carried with him a Ca:far's Commentaries, on whofe margins were
written, in Montrofe's own hand, the generous fentiments of his heart, verfes out of
tlio Italiai) poets, cxpreiling his contempt for every thing but glory.

Having a dillant view of Nairn, a fmall town near- rhe fea, on a river of the fame
name, the fuppofed tuaefis of Ptolemy. Ride through a rii h corn country, mixed with
deep and black Turberies, which fliew the original (lad o( the land, before the recent
introdudion of the impro\ed method of agriculture. Reach Calder caftle, or Cawdor,
as Siiakcl'pcar calls it, long the property of its thanes. The ancient part is a great

* For glaive, an old word for a fvvord.

'• Tlicii furth he drew his truily glaive, »-.

ijjih)lc tlioufai J3 all around, '

Dr.iwa iVac their lluaths glanft in the fun,

And luud the bougilU found." Ha^^ivknuti.

L 2

Iquare

PENKf ant's tour in ocoti.and.
but there is a hirgc anJ more nioilern building annexed, wii.i

V,/'

fquare tower j
briil^^o.

'I'lic thancdotii was transforrcd into tlio houfo of the Campbells by the theft of the
hciiols of I'atiUr, wluii flie was an inl.uit, by the fccond Karl ol' Ar^ylo. The Calders
raifcil their t l.ui, and ciuiravomed to bring back the cl.ild, but wore difoated with preat
lofs. Tile Karl carried dllhis pri/.r, and married her to Sir John,C.anipbcll, his fecond
fun, fonRtiinc bfl'orc the year 1510.

All the houles in tlicfe parts are caftles, or at Ic.aft defenfible; for till the year 1745,
the I li^'lihnJers nude their inroads, and drovi' away the cattle of their dcfencclifs
neifililK'urs. There are faid to exifl foine very eld n>arriage articles of the daughter of
a chieftain, in wliich the daughter pi oniifes for her portion two hundred Scots marks,
and the half of a Miehaelmas moon, i. t». half tlie plunder, when the nights grew dark
enough to make their excurfions. There is likewile in being a letter I'rom Sir Kwiii
Cameron to a thief in the neighbourhood of the county of Murray, wherein he regrets
the milchief that had happened between tlieir people (many having been killed on both
fideKj, as his clan had no intention of falling on the Grants when it left Lochaber, but
only to make an incurlion into Murray-land, where every man was free to take his prey.
This ilrange notion feems to have aril'en from the county having been for fo many ages
a Pidilh country, and after that under the dominion of the Danes, and during both
periods in a ilate of perpetual warfare with the Scots and wedern Highlanders, who
(long alter the change of circumilances) feem quite to have forgot that it was any crime
to rob their neighbours of Murray.

Rode into the woods of Caldcr, in which were very fine birch trees and alders, fomo
oak, great broom, and juniper, which gave fhelter to the roes. Deep rocky glens,
darkened with trees, bound each fide of the wood : one has a great torrent roaring at
its dillant bottom, called the brook of Achneem : it well merits the name of Acheron,
being a mod fit fcene for witches to celebrate their nodurnal rites in.

Obfervcd on a pillar of the door of Calder church a joug, i. e. an iron yoke, or ring,
faftencd to a chain, which was in former times put round the necks of delinquents
againll the rules of the church, who were left there expofed to fhame during the tin\e
of divine fervice, and was alfo ufed as a puniflmient for defamation, fmall thefts, &c. ;
but thefe penalties arc now happily aboiilhed. The clergy of Scotland, the moft decent
and confident in their conduit of any fet of men I ever met with of their order, are at
prcfent much changed from the furious, illiterate, and enthufiaflic teachers of the old
'rimes, and have taken up the mild method of pcrfuafion, inftead of the cruel difcipline
of corporal punifhments. Science almoft univerlally flourilhes among them ; and their
difcourfe is not Icfs improving than the table they entertain the (Iranger at is decent
and hofpitable. Few, very few of them permit the bewitchery of difiipation to lay hold
of them, notwithdanding they allow all the innocent pleafures of others, which, though
not criminal in the layman, they know mud bring the taint of levity on the churchman.
T'hey never fink their characters by midnight brawls, by mixing with the gaming world,
either in cards, cocking, or horfe-races, but prcferve with a narrow income a dignity
too often lod among their brethren fouth of the Tweed *. '*

The

• The APOLOGY.

Tkiekd. — " Yon, you in fiery puigat'iy mult Hay,

" Till gall and ink and dirt of fLiibli; jj Jay
•' In purifying ilamci are pury'd away.

Tkavillik.

pennant's 'nouR in Scotland.

The Scotch livings arc from 40I. per annum to 150I. per annum ; a decent houfe is
huilt lor the luiiiiller on the glebe, and about fix acres of land annexed. The church
allows nn curate, except in cafe of ficknefs or age, when one, under the title of helper,
is appointed ; or, where the livings are very extenfive, a millionary or afliflant is al-
liitted ; but line-cures, or fine-cured preferments, never difgracc the church of our
lilJcr kingdou). The widows and children are of late provided for out of a fund efta-
llilhtd by two arts, 17th and 2ad Geo. II. • This fund, amounting now to f.6,oool.
\v.\j Ibrmed by the contributions of the clergy, whofe widows receive uitiuities from
lol. to 25I. according to what their hufbands had advanced.

Crols the Nairn ; the ftream inconfiderable, except in floods. On the weft is KiU
ravocii Cadle, and that of Dalcrofs. Keep due north, along the military road from
Perth \ pafs along a narrow piece of land, projc£ting far into tne Firth, called Arderfier,
forming a (Irait karce a mile over, between this county and that of Cromartie f. At
the end of this point is Fort George, a fmall but ftrong and regular fortrefs, built fince
1 745, as a place d'arnies : it is kept in excellent order, but, by rcafon of the happy
change of the times, feemed almoll deferted : the officers' apartments and barracks are
very handlbme, and form feveral regular and good ftrects. According to a fketch I

Traykller.— " O truft me, dear D , I ne'er would oHcnd

*< One pioDt divine, one virtuous friend,

" Frcm nature alone are my ctiaraAert drawn,

•• From little Bob Jerom to bifhops in lown j"

O trud me, dear friend, I never did think on

The holies who dwell nenr th' o'erlooker of Lincoln.

Not a prelate or pricll did e'er haunt my flumber.

Who inrtrudlivtlv teach betwixt Tweeda and Humber;.

Nor in fuuth, call, or well du I (ligmatifc any,

\Vho Hick to their texts, and tbofe are the many.

Uut when crafling and joftling come aueer men of God,

In rully brown coats and wailtcoats of plaid ;

With greal'y cropt hair, and hats cut to the quick,

Tight white leaitiern breeches, and fmart little llicic ;

Clear of all th.ii if facred from bowfprit to poop, fir ;

Who iirophanc like a pagan, and fwear like a trooper ;

Who Ininc in the cock pit, o» turf, and in liable.

And are the prime bucks and arch wags vf each table {

Wiio if they e'er deign to thump drum ecclefullic,

Spuut new-ianglcd doctrine enough to make man fick }

And lay down as gofpel, but not from their bibles,

Tnat goodnatur'd vices are nothing but foibles ;

And vice are refining till vice is no more.

From taking a bottle to taking a — — — .

Then if in thcfe days fuch apollates appear,

( For fuch I am told appcir there and here)

C) pardon, dear friend, a well-meaning zeal.

Too unguardedly telling (he fcandnl 1 feel :

It toueheii not you, let ihe galled jades winch,

Sound in morals and doArinc you never will tiinch.

O friend of pall youth, let ir.e think of tlic fab'e

Oft told with clialle mirth at your innocent table.

When inArudtivcly kind, wifdom's rules you run o'er,

Rcluflant I leave you, iniatiate for more ;

&o, blell beihe day, that my joys will rellore.'

• An account of the government of the church of Scotland was communicated to me by the ReveTeiid
Mr. 1 roilie, the late worthy minifter of Calder. Vide Appendix.
t iietwcen which pliet a ferry-boat.

obtained

;/i

■wm

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

obtained to refrefli my memory, it appears to be of an oftagonal form ; to have alt
ample cfplanade ; cafemates on each fide bomb-proof, the parade in the centre, and a
chapel in the rear.

Lay at Campbeltown, a place confifting of numbers of vejy mean houfes, owing its
rife and fupport to the neighbouring fort.

Aug. 1 6. Pafled over Colloden 'uoor, the place that North Britain owes its pr'ifent
profperity to, by thevitlory of April it5, 1746. On the fide of the moor, arc the great
plantations of Culloden-houfe, the feat of the late Duncan Forbes, a warm and adtive
friend to the Iloufe of Hanover, who fpent great fums in its fervice, and by his influ-
ence, and by his perfuafions, diverted numbers from joining in rebellion ; at length
he met with a cool return, for his attempt to fheath after victory, the unfatiated fword.
But let a veil be flung over a few exceflfes confequential of a day, productive of fo
much benefit to the united kingdoms.

The young adventurer lodged here the evening preceding the battle ; di(lra£led with
the averfion of the common men to difcipline, and the dilientions among his officers,
even when they were at the brink of deftruftion, he feemed incapable of a£ling, could
be fcarcely perfuaded to mount his horfe, never came into the adion, as mii^ht have
been expedcd from a prince who had his lad ftake to play, but fled inglorioufly to the
old traitor Lovat *, who, I was told, did execrate him to the peribn who informed him
that he was approaching as a fugitive : forefeeing his own ruin as the confcquenco f.

The Duke of Cumberland, when he found that the barges of the fleet attended near
the fliore for the fafety of his perfon, in cafe of a defeat, immediately ordered them
away, to convince his men of the rcfolutiou he had taken of either conquering or pe-
rifliing with them.

The battle was fought contrary to the advice of fome of the mod fenfible men in the
rebel army, who adviled the retiring into the faftnefles beyond the Nels, the breaking
liov.Q the bridge of Invernefs, and defending themftlvcs amidfl the mountains. They
politicaliy urged that England was engaged in bloody wars foreign and domeftic, that
it could at that time ill fpare its troops ; and that the Government might, from that
confidcration, be induced to grant to the infurgents their lives and fortunes, on con-
dition they laid down their anno. 'Ihey were fenlible that their caufe was defperate,
and that their ally was faithlefs ; yet knew it might be long before they could be en-
tirely iubducd ; therefore drew hopes from the fad neceflity of our alFairs at that fea-
fon : but tli's rational plan was luperftded by the favourite faction of the army, to
vhole guidance the unfortunate Adventurer had rcfigned himfelf.

Aftt r delcending from the moor, got into a well cultivated country ; and, after
riding luwie time under low Lut ploafant hills, not far from the lea, reach

Invcrnels, fmely feated on a plain, between the Firth of Murray, and the river Nefs:
the liril, from the narrow ilrait ol ArdcrJier, inllantly widens into a fine bay, and

• Hii Loidfhip was at that tinif txpcding thf eveniof the battle, when aperfon came in and inform'.d
hiin, lli..t lit law the' Piincc riJii g lull Ipccd, and alone.

f Kcgaid 10 inipariijliiy o'ligci me lu j;ive t'lc follij.ving account very recently coii.muiiii.ited to me,
reidii:ij{ to ihe iljtiuii of the tljcf on tl.ij iinporiuijt dav ; iiuJ iliiit by an eye-witnrl's :

'!"'ie itutcli army «a . ..Liun iiji i:i a lin;;!; l:nc j bchimi, ;it about 50c pacts dilh-.iici, was a corps dt ic-
ftrvt, iviih wli.cli vv^is tilt ,'\ i\v-;uiiitr, .. plate of fttining Ittiinty, from wlitiire he iltuiJ ! is ordcri. His
i!uil iiila ».is that 1)1 :lit 11;1, lands, but thib d.iy he .ipptared in a brown coat, with a loole great fciat
PkLi it, jnd sn uitii.Miy t'.i, lutli ai toumrytncn v.i.it, on his head. Remote a^ this plate was imm the
fptil wJurc the liirti.g atlii 11 U.I., a U-i':.:it of hib wat itiilttl by an acciileir.al (hot. It i:> well kijowii huw
Ihott tlie coi,fli(it «v.:i ; ..i.d tl'.r ir,i,iiic.it lit law his ri^'ht v.iiiggive way, he fird with the utiooi'l prccipitatioH,
txl viti.out a lir.jjlc autiidaii:, till lie v,a« jo'ncd by a few other fuj^itive;.

again

MNKANT's TOVR IK SC0T|<AM9«

and informcil

again as fudJenly contrafts oppofite Invernefs, at the ferry of Keflbck, the pafs into
Rofsfhire. The town is large and well built, very populous, and contains about
eleven thoufand inhabitants. This being the lad of any note in North Britain, is
the winter refidence of many of the neighbouring gentry : and the prefent emporium,
as it was the antient, of the north of Scotland. Ships of five or fix hundred tons can
ride at the lowed ebb within a mile of the town ; and at high tides, veffels of two
hundred tons can come up to the quay. The prefent imports are chiefly groceries,
haberda'lieries, hardware, and other neceffaries from London : and of late from fix to
eight hundred hogflieads of porter are annually brought in. The exports are chiefly
fahnon, thofe of the Nefs being efteemed of more exquifife flavour than any other. Her-
rings, of an inferior kind, taken in the Firth from Augufl: to March. The manufadured
e:-f>orts are confiderable in cordage and facking. Of late years, the linen manufa£lure
c .Je place faves it above three thoufand pounds a year, which ufed to go into Holland
for that article. The commerce of this place was at its height a century or two ago,
when it engrofled the exports of corn, falmon, and herrings, and had befides a great
trade in cured codfifli, now loft ; and in thofe times very large fortunes were made
here.

The opulence of this town has often made it the objedl of plunder to the Lords of
the Ifles and their dependents. It futfered in particular in 1222, from oneGillifpie ;
in 1429, from Alexander Lord of the Ifles; and even fo late did the antient manners
prevail, that a head of a wcftern clan, in the latter end of the lad century, threatened
the place with fire and fword, if they did not pay a large contribution, and prefent
him with a fcarlet fuit laced ; all which was complied with.

On the north ftood Oliver's fort, a pentagon, whofe form remains to be traced only
by the ditches and banks. He formed it with Itoncs purloined from the neighbouring
religious houfes. At prefent there is a very confiderable rope-walk near it.

On an eminence, fouth of the town, is old Fort St. George, which was taken and
blown up by the rebels in 1746. It had been the antient cadle converted by General
Wade into barracks. According to Boethius, Duncan was murdered here by Mac-
beth : but according to Fordun, near Elgin *. This cadie ufed to be the refidence of
the Court, wheneviT tlie Scottilh Princes were called to quell the infurre6lions of the
turbulent clans. Old people ftill remember magnificent apartments embellifhed with
ducco buds and paintings. The view from hence is charming of the Firth, the piflUge
of Kelfock, the river Nefs, the drr.nge (haped hill of Tomman heurich, and various
groupcs of didant mountains.

The Tomman is of an oblong form, broad at the bafe, and doping on all fides to-
wards the top ; fo that it looks like a ihip with its keel upwards. Its fides, and part of
the neighbouring plains, are planted, fo i*- is both an agreeable walk and a fine objeft.
It is perfedly detached from any other hill ; and if it was not for its great riy.Cy might
pafs t for a work of art. The view from it is fuch, that no traveller will think his
labour lod, after gaining the fummit.

At Invernefs, and I believe at oihcr towns in Scotland, is an oflicer, called Dean of
the Guild, who, alfided by a council, fuperintends the markets, regulates ilie I price

* Annals of rJcotlaiid. i.

t Its lcnf;th a; top about 300 yarJa ; I ncglttTled meafuring the bafc or tl.c height, w'.ilch are both con-
fiJoral)!c ; tlie brtaiith of ilie top only 20 yards.

Pork, 2(1. to ^d.

ivjitiui^ , lite urcauiu ui iitc iiip uiiiy 2U yards.

t Beef, (zj ounces to the pound) 2d to 4d. Mutton, *d. to jd. Veal, 3d. to ^d. Pork, 2d. to ^d.
lickfns, 3d. to 4d. a couple. Fowl, .^d. to 6d. a piece. Goofe, ud. to i^d. Ducks, 13. a couple.
ijgs, fcven a penny. Siluioii, of which there are fcvtral great filhcries, »d. and id haL'pciiuy per pound.

;8o

J'LNNANT''3 tour in SCOTLAND.

-of provifions ; and if any houfe falls down, and the owner lets it lie in ruins for
three vcars, the Dean can abfolutely difpofe of the ground to the befl bidder.

In this town was a houfe of Dominicans, founded in 1 233 by Alexander II. ; and in
•Dalrympl'^'s CoUertion there is mention of a nunnery.

In the Church-ftrect is a hofpital with a capital of 3000!. the interefl of which is

diitributed amonjif the indigent inhabitants of the town. In this houfe is a library of

1400 volumes of both antient and nioJ(.rn books. The founder was Mr. Robert

IJaillie, a miniller in this town ; but the principal bcncfattor was Dr. James Trafer,

feoretary to the Clvlfea Hofpital.

Crofs the Nefs on a bridge of feveii arches, above which the tide flows for about a
mib. A fmall toll is collected here, which brings to thio town about 60I. a year.

Proceed noith ; have a fiiio view of the Firth, which now widens again from KelTock
into a large bay fome miles in length. 'J he hills flopo down to the water-fide, and are
finely cultivated ; but the diftant profped is of rugi:;(d mountains of a ftupendous
height, as if created as guards to the reft of the ifland iVom the fury of the bi>illcrous
north.

Ride clofe to the water-edge througli woods of alder ; pafs near feveral houfcs of the
the Frafers, and reach

Caftle Dunic, the fite of the houfe of their chieftain lord Lovat. The barony
from which he took his title came into the family by the marriage of Sir Simon Fraler,
a little before the year 1300, with the heirufs of Lord Biflet, a nobleman of great pof-
I'eflion in thefe parts.

The old houl'e, which was very moan, was burnt down in 1746 ; but a neat box,
the refidence of the hofpitable faClor, is built in its ftead on a high bank well wooded,
over the pretty river Ikwley, or Beaulieu. The country for a certain circuit, is fer-
tile, well cultivated and fmiling. The bulk of Lord Lovat's eftate was in thefe parts ;
the reft, to the amount of 500I. per annum, in Stratherick. He was a pott-nt chief-
tain, and could raife about 1000 men : but I found his neighbours fpoke as vna vour-
ably of h'm, as his enemies did in the moft diftant parts of the kingdom, l.egillature
has given the moft honourable teftimony to the merit of the fon, by nltoring, in
I 774, the forfeited fortunes of the father. No patent for nobility ciMiveyed great* r
glory to any one, than the preamble of the ad has done to this gentleman. His fa-
ther's property had been one of the annexed eftates, i. e. fettled unalienably on the
Crown, as all the forfeited fortunes in the Highlands are : the whole value of which
brought in at that time about 6cool. per annum, and thofe in the Lowlands about the
fame fimi ; lb that the power and intcreft of a jMmr twelve thoufand per annum, tcrri-
fied and nearly fubverted the conftitution of thefe powerful Kingdoms,

The profits of thefj eftates are lodged in the hands of truftees, who apply their re-
venue for the founding of fchoolsfor the inftruclionof children in fpinning ; wheels are
given away to poor families, and flax-feed to farmers. Some money is given in aid of
the roads, and towanis building bridges over the torrents ; by which means a readv
intercourle is made to parts before inacceftible to ilrangers*. y\nd in 17s ^1 ^ large
fuin was fpent on an Utopian projed of eftablifliing colonies fon the forfeited elhues) of
dilbanded foldiers and iailors : comfortable houles were built for them, land and
money given, and fome lent ; but the fucccfs by no means anlVered the intentions of
the projedors.

Auz- 17. Ford thcBewlcy, where a falrnon fifliery, belonging to the Lovat eftate,
rents at 1 20I per aiuium. The Erfe name of this river is Faror, and the vale it runs

• The fadors, or ageiilsof thifc cllatcs, ate alfo allowed all the money tliey exjunJ in [,laiiti.i({

6 through.

in ruins for
er.
' II. ; and in

of which is

a library of

Mr. Robert

amcs Trafer,

for about a
a year,
■oni KclTock
icie, and are

ftupendous
e boillcrous

loufcs of the

The barony
nion Krafcr,
>f great pof-

a neat box,
t'll wooded,
cuir, is fer-
hefo parts ;
lotcnt chief-
s iiiu ivour-
l.fgillaturc
rltorinj:;, in
yod grcaii r
n. I lis fd-
ably on tha
Je of vvhich
s about the
mutn, tcrri-

ly their re-
whecls are
n in aid of
us a ready
S3, a large
i e'dates) of
, lain! and
itentions of

ovat efhue,
'ale it runs

jiaiitiiig.

through,

PENNANTS TOtJR IN SCOTLAND. 8 1

through, Glen-ftmth-farar. It is probable that this was its antient name, and that the
Varar iEftuarium of Ptolemy was derived from it, the F being changed into V. The
country on this fide the river is called Leirnanionach *, or the monk's land, having for-
merly been the property of the priory of Bewley ; and the oppofite fide bears the name
(jf Airds, or the heights. Pafs by fome excellent farms, well inclofed, improved, and
i)lanted : the land produces wheat and other corn. Much cattle are bred in thcfe
parts, and there are feveral linen manufaftures.

Ford the Conan to CalUe Braan, the feat of the Earl of Seaforth ; a good houfe,
pleafantly fituated on the fide of a hill ; commands a view of a large plain, and to the
well, a wild profpeft of broken and lofty mountains.

There is here a fine full length of Mary Stuart, with this infcription : Maria D. G.
ScstiiS pii//iiiia Rc^i/ia. Framia Dotaria. Anno JEtatis Regni '}^%. 1580. Her drefs
is black, with a ruif, cap, handkerchief, and a white veil down to the ground, beads,
and prayer-book, and a crofs hanging from her neck ; her hair dark brown, her face
handfome, and, confidering the difference of years, fo much refembling her portrait by
Zucchero, in Chifwick-houfe, as to leave little doubt as to the originality of the laft.

A fmall half-length on wood of Henry Darnly, infcribcd Hcnricus Stuardus Dominus
Darn/y, Ait. IX. M. D. LV. drefled in black, with a fword. It is the figure of a
pretty boy.

A fine portrait of Cardinal Richlieu. General Monk, in a buff coat. Head of Sir
George Mackenzie. The Earl of Seaforth, called from his fize, Kenneth More.
Frances Countefs of Seaforth, daughter of William Marquis of Powis, in her robes,
with a tawny moor offering her a coronet. Roger Palmer Earl of Cadlemaine, dii-
tinguiflied by his lady, Barbara Duchcfs of Cleveland ; and by his fimplc cmbaffy to u
difcerning Pope from that bigotted Prince James II.

Near the houfe arc fome very fine oaks, and horfe-chefnuts ; in the garden, Turkey
npricots, orange neftarincs, and a fmall ibft peach, ripe ; other peaches, nectarines, and
green gages, far from ripe.

Pafs through Dingwall, a fmall town, the capital of Rofsfiiire, fituated near the head
of the Firth of Cromartie : the Highlanders call it Inner-Feorain, Feoran being the
name of the river that runs near it into the Firth. An antlcnt crofs, and an obelilk
over the burying-place of the Earls of Cromartie's flmiily, were all I faw remarkable in
it. In the year 1400, Dingwall had its caille, fubjcft to Donald, Lord of the Ifles, and
Earl of Rofs. After that Regulus was veakened by the battle of Harlaw, his territories
were invaded ; and this caltle reduced to the power of the crown of Scotland, by the
Duke of Albany.

Ride along a very good road cut on the fide of a hill, with the country very well
cultivated above and below, with feveral ..-riU woods interfperfed near the water's edge.
There is a fine view of almoft the whole bay, the moft capacious and fecure of any in
Great Britain i its whole navy might lay there with eafe, and fliips of 200 tons may
fail up above two thirds of its length, which excnds near thirty Englifli miles from the
SuttcTs t of Cromartie to a fmall didance beyond Dingwall : the entrance is narrow ;
the projehling hills defend this fine bay from all winds, fo it jufty merits the name
given it of Partus fulutis.

Foules, the feat of Sir Henry Monro, lies about a mile from the Firth, near vaft
plantations on the flats, as well as on the hills. Thofe on the hills are fix miles in

" I .rir, or Le thtr, land ihat !icj on the fiJc of n n'ver or branch of the f<;i, aiul VJonacli, a monk.
t Sjitttfs, or bhuoler», two hilU that (orm its enivance, projefting confiderably iato the water.

VOL. HI.

length.

PENKANl's TOVH. IN SCOTLAND.

lengrh, anJ in a very P.onrifhing ftatt\ On the back of thofe are cxtenfive vallics full
of o-,\ts bounded by mountains, which hero, as well as in the Highlands in general, rua
trom eaft to weft. Sir Henry iiolds a forcfl from the crown by a very whimticul tenure,
that of delivering a fnow-ball nn any day of the year that it is demanded ; and he fi-enis
to be in no danger of forfe'(in>^ liis right by failure of the quit-rent : for fnow lies in
form of a glaciere in the chahns I'f Benwewifh, a neighbouring mountain, throughouc
the year.

Aug. iS. Continue my journey along the low country, which is rich and w '11
cu!tiv:Ued.

Pafs near Invorgoni on *, a handfome houfo, amidi^ fine plantations. Noar it is the nar-
roweft part of the Firth, and a ftrry into the ihire of Cromartie, now a country almolt
dflHtute of trees ; yet, in the time of James V. was covered with timber, and overrun
with wolves f.

Near the fummit of th.e liill, between the Firths of Cromartie and Dornoch, is Bal-
llnagouan, thelVat of a gentleman, who hasmofl fucccr;,lully converted his fword into a
ploughfliare; who, after a ftries of difmtereded fervices to his country, by clearing
the leas of privateers, the mofl unprofitable of capture's, has applied himlelf to arts net
lefs d r.Tving of its thnnks. He is the befl farmer and the grear^'Il planter in the
countrv :, his wheat and liis turncps fhcw the one, liis plantations of a million of pines
each y:;ir the other J. It was with great fati'^f.-ction that I oblcrvcd charafters of this
kind very frequent in North Britain ; for, during the interval of peace, every officer
of any patrimcny was fond of retiring to it, adumed the farmer without flinging off the
the gentleman, enjoyed ru/al quiet ; yet ready to undergo the fatigues of war the
moment his country claimed his fervices.

About two miles beiow Ballinagouan is a inelancholy inffance of a reverfc of con-
du6l : the ruins of New Tarbat, once the magnificent feat of an unhappy iiobleman,
who plunged into a mofl ungrateful rebellion, deftruftive to himfclf and family. The
tenants, who feem to inhabit grtis, arc forced to flielter themfelves from the weather
in the very lowed apartments, while fwallows make their neds in the bold ftucco oF
fome of the upper.

While I was in this county, I heard a fingular but well-atteited relation of a woman
difordercd in her health, who faded for afupcrnatural fpace of time j but the length of
the narrative obliges mi- to lling it into the Appendix.

Ride along a tedious black moor to Tain, a fmall town on the Firth of Dornoch,
dilinguifhed for nothing but its large fquare tower, decorated with five furall fpircs.
Here was alfo a colkgiate church, founded in 1481 by Thomas biftiup of Kof'--. Cap-
tain Richard Frank?, an hoiicll cavalier, whn (luritig the uiurpation made an angling
peregrination from the banks of the Tieiit to John a Groat's houfo, calls Tain " as
exemplary as any place for juflicc, tiiut never ufcs gibbet or halter to hang a man, but

• At Ciilracn. tlirfc miles f'om tlii? fj'atf, is t'ound, two fctt beneath the furface, a ftratutn of while
foapy marlc filliJ with flitlls, and is diuch >|l'J a» a maiiure.

t riiti'c ani.uuU havc been luiig extindt ii. North triiuin, notwithftaiiding M. dc IJi.fTon alTcrtn the con-
trary. Th- re arc mnsiy aiiticnt luvv^ lor ihcir rxtirpatioii : ihat of James 1. parkin 7. is the mod romaik-
feb'e : " Tht fcliiritr-; ai.d biroiu fulJ h'.;.t the woU four or lli""e llinvn in tlie /car, l>el\\ixt St. Mark's day
ar.d Lar>'be«, cjiihich is the time of tlicir ijii!u!p-«, ar.d all tencnts fall rife \\h\\ them under painc of aiie
waddtr."

I I'ine, or Scotch fir feed, as it ii calk J, fills fror four to fix (hillings per pi und. Rents arc payed here
in kind : tlie inndlord lilier c( ntrafts to fii(i- !y the foitj "iili the pro'iitc nf the land, or ftlU it to the
mcrchar.1, wliu come* for it. The j^ricc of . .our is 6d. per daj to the men, 3d. to the woraeu.

iackj'

vallics full
'neral, rua
ical tenure,
id he ii-ems
how lies in
throughoiic

1 and w -11

t is ihenar-
)rry alinoll
ud overrun

ich, is Bal-
vord into a
by clearing
to arts net
Iter in the
m of pines
Vers of this
ery officer
;ing off the
oi war the

rfe of con-
iiobleinan,
lily. The
le weather
I'lucco oF

a woman
length of

Dornoch,
\\\ fpircs,

s. Cap-
n angling
lain " as

man, but

im of white

It", the con-

>i\ romaik-

Miik's ilay

,i.uni; of aiie

paycij licrp
IL it to the

kchs

pennant's tour m SCOTtANO. 83

lacks all their malefactors, fo fwims them to their graves *. This method of punifli-
mcnt was not peculiar to this, for in olu times women convifted of capital offences were
drowned in the riv^r Gefllincf, near Sandwich f- The place appeared very gay at this
time ; for ail the gaudy finery of a little fair was difplayed in the flicvv of huidwaro,
printed linens, and ribbands. Kept along the fiiore for about two miles through au
open corn country ; and croffmg the groat ferry, in breadth near luo miles, through a
rapid tide, and in a bad boat, land in the county of Sutherland, Catta of the Highlanders,
and in Icfs than an hour reach its capital.

Dornoch, a fmall town, half in niiiis, once the refidence of the bifliops of Caithnefs,
and, like Durham, the feat of ecclefiadics : many of the houfcs flill are called after ihe
titles of thnfe that inhabited iheni : the bifhop lotlged in the caiHe : the dean's houfe is
at prefent the inn. The cathedral was in form of a crofs, built by Gilbert Moray, who
died bifliop of Caithnefs in 1245 • '^^ '^ "°^ ^ ruin, except part, which is the prefent
church |. On the doors and window-fliutters were painted (as is common in many
parts of North Britain) white tadpole-like figures on a black ground, defigned to ex.
prcfs the tears of the country for the lofs of any perfon of dlftindiou. Thcfe were
occafioned by the alleging end of that amiable pair, the young Earl and Countefs of
Sutherland, who were lovely in their lives, and in their deaths they were not divided,
for their happinefs was interrupted by a very ftiort feparation : fane ubi idem et maximus
cl honcfttJ)tmm amor cj}^ aliquando prajlat 7nortejungi, quam vita dijirahi §.

Ride on a plain not far from the fea ; pafs by a fmall crofs, called the Thane's,
erefted in memory of the battle of Embo in 1 259, between William Earl of Sutherland
and the Danes, who were overthrown, and their general flain, at this place ; and not
far from thence the fpot where an unhappy creature had been burnt, if I millake not,
in June 1727, for the imaginary crime of witchcraft ||.

Crofs a very narrow inlet to a fmall bay at Portheg, or the little ferry, in a boat as
dangerous as the laft ; for horfes can neither get in or out without great rifque, from
the vaft height of the fides and their want of flips. Keep along the ftiore, pafs by the
fmall village of Golfpie, and reach

Dunrobin caftle, the ancient feat of the earls of Sutherland, founded about the year
noo by Robert, or Robin, fecond Earl of Sutherland, fituateduear the fea, and as the
word dun imports, on a round hill. The few paintings here are, an Earl of Murray,

• Northern Memoirs, Sec. by Richard Franks, riillantliropus. London, 1654.

t Harris's Kent, 271.

\ Sir Patrick Murray founded here in 1271 a cnnvcnt of Mathurines.

^ Wliere a mutual and mod ardent and moll virtuou-» afTcftion reigns. It is fometimcs preferable to be
vnited by deatli, than torn from eagh other by life.

II This is the laft inftance of thtfe frantic execiiiions In the north of Scotland, as that in the foutk was at
Paifley in 1697, where, among others, a woman, young and handfome, fulTercd, with a reply to her enquir.
inp friends worthy a Romnti matron: being afked why llie did not make a better defence on her trial
anfwend, " Myperfecutors have deftroyed my honour, and my life is not now worth the pains of defend-
ing." Thelall inftance of national crtdulity on this head was the llory of the witches of Therfo, who tor-
nrntinfr for aiongtimean Isoneft fcllcw wn^lir the ufual form of cats, at lall provoked him fo, that one night
he put them to flight with his broad f»vord, mid cut o!l' the leg of one l-l's nimble than the reil ; on his tak-
ing it up, to his amazement he found it belonged to a female of his own fpecies, and next morning difco-
vcrcd the owner, an old hag, with only the coripanion kg to this. The horrors of the tale wereconfiderablf
abated in the plsce I htaid it, liy an unlucky oiqui'- i.\jde by one in company, viz In what pan would the
old woman have fulforcd, had the man cutolF the cr.'. iail ? But thete relations of alnioll obfolete fuperlli-
tions, mull never be thought a refleiftion on this country, as long as any memory remains of the tragical end
of the poor people at Triug, who, within a few miles of our cjpit.il, in 175:1, fell a facriticc to the belief of
the common people in witches ; or of that ridiculous impoilure in the capital Itfclf, ta i;02, yf the Cock-
lane g!icftj which found ciedit with iill ranks of people.

M fl

.'./Vz-^V

llil

i 1 i ffi

III . ;- ^

1 ^i

•|t 1

'Li

'mm

r . 'i (In

i 'K "■

P£KMANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

an old man, on wood. His fon and two daup[litors, by Co. G. 162S. A fine full
length of Charles I. Angus Williamfon, a htro of the clan Chattun, who refcued the
Sutherlands in the time of diftrcfs. A very fingular pillure of the Duke of Alva in
council, with a cardinal by his fide, who puts a pair of bellows blown by the devil into
his ear : the duke has a chain in one hand fixed to the necks of the kneeling Flemings,
in the other he Ihews them a paper of recantation for them to lign ; behind whom are
the reformed clergy. The cardinal is the noted Anthony Pcrrenot, caalinal de Gran-
ville, fccretary to Margaret of Auftria, duchefs dowai;cr of Savoy, governefs of the
Netherlands, and w Ik) was held to be the author, i.dvancer, and nourilher • of the
trouble, of thofc countries ; and who, on his recall into Spain, was fuppofed to be the,
great promoter of the cruelties cxercifed afterwards by the Duke of Alva, the fuccelfor
of his millrefs.

'i'he demefne is kept in excellent order ; and I faw here (lat. 58.) a very fine field of
wheat, which would be ripe about the middle of next month.

This was the moft northern wheat which had been fown this year in North Britain.

Sutherland is a country abounding in cattle, and fends out annually ♦2500 head,.
whicl. ' M ! about tiiis time (lean) from 2I. los. to 3I. per head„ 'I'hefe are very fre-
queiitlv without horns, and both they and the horfes are very fmail. Stags abouml in
the hiil^. 'here being reckoned not lefs th.in 1600 on the Sutlieriand illate, which, in
fatT, !• iJie greatell part of the county. Belldes thefo are roes, grous. black game, and
r;*^rini=.'ans in plenty, and during winter multitudes of water-fowl on the coi.'l.

No; far from Dunrobin is a very entire piece of antiquity, of the kind known in
b»Jtland by the name of the Pidifh caftlc.;, and called here Cairn Ma', or a grey tower:
that I .*" vas about 130 yards in circun ?erence, round, and raited fo high above the
ground as to form a confiderable mount : on the top was an extenfive but fliallow hol-
low: within were t!ir,-e low concentri: galleries, at Imall di'lanccs from each other,
covered with large (tones ; and the fide-walls were about four or five feet thick, rudely
made. There are generally three of thefe places near each other, fo that each niay be
feen from any one. Buildings of this kind are very frequent along this coall, that of
Caithnefs, and ot Strathnavern. Others agreeing in external form are common in tne
Hebrides, but diifer in their internal conftrudion. In the iflands they are attributed to
the Danes f ; here to the Pictsr Poflibly each nation might have the fame mode of
building with fome variation, for I am told that fome are to be feen in places where the
Danes never penetrated : they were probably the dcfencible habitations of the times.
I mull withdraw my opinion of their having been (hf^fuffugia hiani, tint reft'ptacula frit^
gibus, like thofe of the ancient Germans. Such are not uncommon in Scotland, but of
a form very different from thefe.

Kept along the Hiore northward. About a mile from the caillc are fome fmail clifl's
of free-ftone ; in one is Strath-Levcn Cove, an artificial cave, with feats, and feveral
{fallow circular hollows cut within-ude, once the retreat of a devout hermit. At iome
diflance, and near the fea, are fmail ftrata of coal three feet thick, dipping to the eall,
and found at the depth of about 14 to 24 yards. Sometimes it takes tire on the bank,
which has given i' fo ill a name, that nf^onU m^-^. -ery fcarlu! of taking it aboard llieir
fliips. I am furprifed that they will not run the ri(k, confidermg the miraculous qua-
lily it pofl'efles of driving away rats wherever it is uled. This is believed by the good

• Grimftone'e K::!. Netherlaud*, 344. ^40.

f An enquiry ii at thij time making, hy meant of a corrrfponrfence in Copenliapen, whr tlir r ai>v fucK
«<!ifircj exift at prcfcut iu the Dani(l» doiriticns, and what wa« ihtir fujipcfta uk. 1 he rttuk wiil be givtii

10 pt-Oplo

,^^

PZNNANT's tour in SCOTLAND.

«5

i fine full
•efcued tlie
of Alva ill
? devil into
Flemings,
whom are
,1 de Gran-
efs of the
r • of the
J to be the
e fuccolfof

inc field of

h Britain.
500 hoad,
e very fre-
abound in
, which, in
game, and
I,

known in
rey tower:

above the
lallow hoU
ach otlicr,
ck, rudely
h may be

II, that of
non in tr.e
ributed to

mode of
where the

lie times.
(iru/ti frur
iid, but of

nail chffs
d feveral
At foine
-> the ead,
Ik' bank,
lard llieir
us qiia-
the good

f r aay fiich
rill be givtii

pt-oplo

people of Sutherland, who aflured me ferioufly of its virtues ; and they farther attri-
buted the fame to the earth and very heath of their county. They add too, that not a
rat will live with them, notwithftanding they fwarm in the adjacent (hires of Rofs and

Caithnefs*. <•■•.- 1

In Aflfynt, a part of this county, far weft of Dunrobm, are large Itrata ot a beautiful
white marble, equal, as I was told, to the Parian. I afterwards faw fome of the fame
kind found at Glen-avon, in Badenoch.

Crofs the water of Brora, which runs along a deep chafm, over which is a handfome
bridge uf a fingle arch. Near is a cave, where the falmon-filhers lie during the fealon :
the roof is pierced through to the furface, which ferves for a natural chimney. They
take annually about teii or twelve lafts of filh. In a bank not far from the bridge are
found abundance of belemnitae.

The country is very fandy, and the arable, or cukivated part, very narrow, confined
on the eall oy the fea, on the weft hy lofty black mountains, which approach nearer
and nearer to the water, till at length they projeft into it at the great promontory, the
Ord of Calthnefs, the boundary between that county and Sutherland ; after which the
coalt is bold and rocky, except a final! bay or two.

I'ord the very dangerous vi^ater of He'mfdale, rapid and full of great ftones. Very large
lampiies arc found here, fiHi detefted by the Highlanders. Beneath the ftones on the
fea-fliore are abundance of fpotted and viviparous blennies, father-lalhcrs, and whiftlc-
ti(h. ivlackarel appear here in this month, but without their rocs. I thought them far
inferior in goodnefs to thole of our country. Much falmon taken here.

'1 he grey water wagtail quits this country in winter ; with us it refides.

Dined at the little village of Helmfdalc ; near which are the ruins of a fquare tower
built by Margaret Countefs of Sutherland, in the fifteenth century.

Paired through a rich vale full of good barley and oats, between the hill of Helmfdale
and the Ord. Afcend that vaft promontory on a good road, winding up its ftecp fides,
and impending in many parts over the fea, infinitely more high and horrible than our
P.nmaen Mawr. Beneath were numbers of feals floating on the waves, with fea-fowl
fwnnming among them with great fecurity. Obferved projeding from one part of the
Ord, far below, a fmall and verdant hill, on which, tradition fays, was fought a fingle
coiubat between an Earl of Caithnefs and a fon of the Earl of Sutherland, while their
two armies looked on from above ; the firft was killed on the fpot, the bit died of his
wounds.

The Ord was the ancient divifion c^ Caithnefs, when Sutherland was reckoned part.
The diftindion at that time was Cathcnefta cis et ultra morttem. Sutherland was ftyUd
then Catau, as being more moirntainous : the modern Caithnefs Guaelav, as being
more plain f.

* Some years a^o I bought of the monks, at tlie R'fat Benedittine convent at Augfturpf, fomc papers of
S«. Ulriek's eaith, which I wa» affuttd by Lutlitran and Psplll had the iame rit-expelliiig quahty with that
above-mentioned ; but whether for want of due faiih, or !iegl?ft of »tteiidin£^ to the foimu cf the printed
prefcriptioni i>iven with them, (liere copied at full irng'.h ' I know not, but the audacious auimals h;iu:it
niy honfe in fpite of it; — *' VencrHbilts rtliquix dc terra frpulchrali, five de refuhita dcintiis came S. Uilal-
r;ci conf. U cpifcopi Augullani ; quat (i honorihce ad inftar alianim rehijuianim habfantii.-, i- ad dci laudein
divique prwfuli-. honorem, piura quoddam opus, v. g. oratio, jejuninm, eleemofyna, Sfc piactlctur, mirum ett,
qua poUeant tlficacia, ad profcribcndos prxfertim e d.^rnibus, & \iciaia gliits, qui fublillere rninime vahnt
ubicunque firniles tcllquij! cum fiducia tiicrint appci.l'x vel anVrvatse. Idque ex fpeciaU pr«rog:ittva, qua
emnipotens Dens infii^nia tar.ti patroni merita perpetuo luiraculo Ibtuil coudecorate."

f >3>r David DJrymple's Auualg ut Sculluiid, 135.

Beneath

PENNANTS TOUR. IN SCOTLAND.

) .)

' ' I !■

:, >H

Bciicaih tills cnpo are immenfe caves, the rcfort of fcals* and fca-fowls : the fiJci
r.iul top a»v diioily coviivil with heath ami niorafly oartli, which give it a black and
nclancholy look. Rido over fonie boggy ami dreary moors. Pafs through Aulilalo, a
iiitlc hij;hland villa,c;(.'. Dciccndinto a dctp bottom covered with alders, willows, birch,
and wickentrocs, to l.anj!;\vall, the feat of Mr. Suiherhind, who gave me a very honpi-
table reception. The country abounds with flags and rocs, and all forts of feathered
game, v hile tlu' acijaci?nt rive r bringvs f^ihnon alinoll up to his door.

I enquired !ierc alter the Lavellan f, which, Irom deicription,! hifpcft to be the water
flirevv-nioufe. 'i Ik* country people have a not Inn that it is noxious to cattle : they
prcferve the fkin, and, as a cure for their fick bv..\fls, give thvm the water in which it
has been dipt. I believe it to be the Hnnc annual which in Sutherland is called the
•water-mole.

Aug. 20. Proceed on my journey. Pafsm rlkrrldalo. On a peninfula jutting into the
feais the ruin of the cadle ; beiwcen it and tlie land is a dt'-p chafni, where there had
been a dravv-biidge. On this caflle are flationed, in the lahnon I'eafon, pcrfons who arc
to obfervc the approach ol the filh to the freHi waters.

Near C'.Iathron is a druidical itonc fet an vik], and cf a moft ftupendous fizc.

Saw Dunhcth J, the feat of Mr. Sinclair, lituatcd on a narrow neck of land ; on one
fide impending over the fea, on the other, over a deep chalm, into which the tide
flows: a imall narrow garden, with billows beating on three fides, (ills the refl of the
land between the houfe and the water. Numbers of old cadles in this county have the
fame tremendous fituation. On the weft fide of this houfe are a few rows of tolerable
trees; the only trees that I faw from Berridale to thf? extremity of Caiihnefs§. On
the right inland are the liuall remains of Kiiackmnan CalUe, built by an Karl of Caith-
neis. From thele parts is a full view of the lofty naked mountain of Scaraban and
Morvcn. The lait ptarmigans in Scotland are on the firft ; the lad roes about Lang-
wall, there being neitiier high hills nor woods beyond. All the county on this fide,
from Dnnbeth to the extremity, is flar, or at leafl very feldom interrupted with hills,
and thofe low, but the coafts rocky, and compofed of Itupendous clitTs.

Refrelhed our hories at a little inn at the hamlet of Clythe, not for from the head-
land, called Clythenefs. Reach Thrumfter, a feat of Mr, Sinclair's. It is obfervable,
that the names of places in this county often terminate m tcr and dale, which favors of
Danifh origin.

The Sinclairs arc very numerous, and poflTefs confiderable fortunes in ihefe parts ;
hut Boethius fays, that ihey, the Fraziers, Campbells, Bofwells, and many otherr, came
originally from France.

Auguil lift, pafs through Wick, a fmall borough town with fome good houfes,
feated on a river within reach of the tide ; and at a diflance lies an old tower, called
Lord Olipham's caltle. In this town lives a weaver who weaves a fhirt, with buttons
and button holes entire without any feam, or the leaft ufe of the needle : but it is feared
that he will fcarce find any bent fit from his ingenuity, as he cannot afford his labour
under five pounds a fhirt. Somewhat farther, clofe to the fea, is Achringal tower, the

• Diiririj'T Tprinp grfat (;u.-»niiii;s of lump fi(h rcfort lierf, and are llic prry of the fi'als, as a|iprar5
forr. '.lit Miinbtrs < f tlieir (klnt. which at that ftafon float afliore. Tlit (ah, at certain times, fcem vilitcd
■wiili a great moitality ; Ar at thofe tiir.ci multitudes of them are fcin dead in the water.

- Sibbald'3 hill. Scotland. Br. Zool. I. 33.

* Tliis caftie was taken and garrifoned by llie Marquis of Montrofe in 1650, immediately preceding
la* final defeat. Wkiitiock, 454.

^ But va.1 q'.iantity of fubtcrrar.eous timber In all the n'oor*. Ntar Du.ileth ii an entire Pifts caftlc,
w.'lh ti.e ho!Ij-.v i.i the top, and 15 culkd the liourgof Du:ibcll»,

feat

- M

r'-i:

PrKNAN'r's TOUR IN 8C0TI.AKI>.

: the fiJci
black and
Aufilalo, a
)ws, birch,
very hoiTpi-
P feathered

c the water

Utle : they

in which it

called the

inp into thi
? there had
ns who arc

ze.

d ; on one
ch the tide

reft of the
ty have the
)f tolerable
-■fsS. On
1 of Caith-
iraban and
pout Lang-
1 this fide,

with hills,

the he.id-

ibl'ervable,

favors of

fe parts ;
lerr,, came

d hoiifes,
cr, called
h buttons
t is tc.ircd
lis bbdur
,)wer, ihc

a« apprarj
ccm viiitcd

preceding
'Ids caftle,

feat

feat of Sir Williain Dunbar. Ride r-or the Links of Ktith, on the fide of Sinclir bay,
Thcfc were once a inonili, now covered with land, finely turfed over j fo in this in-
ilance the land has been obliffed by the inltability of the fand. The old ciiitle d
Lc'il'a is fcatedon a rock, witli a good houfe of the lame name near it.

Near Frt'lvvick caille the clifls arc very lofty : tiie ftnita that compol'c them lie quitd
h'jriisontally in fudi tt in and regular layers, and fo olten interfetled by filfureH, as to
;jppi'ar like mafoni .. B.:ueath aiv great infiilateci joiumns, called here Stacks, com-
pt/li.1.1 of the i'ame ion ■>' 'latnral malcnry as the cliffii ; many of tliem are hollowed quite
ihrnugh, 'Vi a,^ to form molt- magniftcent arch'js, vvhicii tae fea ruHies through with vaft
iioife and impetuofitv, aftbrJinga moll atiguft piece of fcenery to fuch who are fteady
enough to furvey it from the narrow and alinolt impending paths.

fVcfvvick caRL- is il:at(d on a narrow rock projefting into the fea, with jud room
enough for it to (land on : iheaccel'sto it while the draw-bridge was in being, was
over a deep ch^fm cut through tht little ' 'imus that connected it to the main '.and.
Thefc dreadful fauations are flrongly exprilfive of the jealous and wretched cmdition
of the tyrant owners. It is laid that a nobleman of the name of Suenus Afleilf inha-
bited this caftle about the year 1155.

Alter >'ding near Frefwick bav, tiie fecond fandy bay in the county, pafs over a very
bad lorals, and after a tew miles trave' arrive at Dungfby bay * a lowtraft, confifling
of , -lands and grazing land : the uliinia thulc of Sir Robert Sibbald, whole defcrip-
rion it fully anfwers in this particular.

Qiiam jiixta iiila'iics fcopii!!, ct pctrc fa vorago
Afpcrac undifoiiis I'axa pudenda vadis f .

The beach is a colleftion of fragments of fhells ; beneath which are va/l broken
rocks, fome funk, others apparent, running into the fea never pacific. The contrary
tides and currents form here a moll tren cndous conteft ; yet, by the fkilfulnefs of the
people, arc paflcd with great fafety in uic narrow little boats i law lying on the fliorc.

The points of this bay are Dungfbv head and St. John's head, ftretching out into the
fea to the caft and weft, forming a pair of horns ; from the refemblance to which it
fliould feem that this country was antiently ftyled Cornana.

From hence is a full view of feveral of the Orkney iflands, fuch as Flota, Waes,
Ronaldfa, Swanna, to the well the SJter . •, and within two miles of land Stroma, fa-
mous for its natural mummies, or tho en'- ' and uncorrupted bodies of perfons who had
been dead fixty years. I was informed thit th».y were very light, had a flexibility in their
limbs, and were of a dulky colour |. 'ihisifleis fertile in corn, is inhabited by above
thirty families, who know not the ufe of a plough, but dig every part of their cora
land.

Dine at the good minifter's of Cannefby. On ?ny return faw at a diftance the Stacks
of Dungftjy, a vaft infulated rock, over topping the land, and appearing like a great
tower. ;,

Pafled near the feat of a gentleman not l(mg deceafed ; the laft who was believed to
be poflefled of the fecond fight. Originally he made ufe of the pretence, in order to
render himfelfmore rcfpeftable with liis clan ; but at length, in fp: jf fine abilities,

*John a Groat'a houfe is now known only by naf ,-. The proper name of the bay is Duncan's.

t Quoted by Sir Robert from the Iter IJqlthicui.i of Cciiradvis Ciltes.

X Iri the Philofophical Tranfaftions abridged, viii. 7 -5. is an ;;'in()(l parallel iiiiTance of two corpfes,
foi:ml in a moor in Derbyfliire, that had for 49 years rciilted putrcfaiiion.and were in much the fame (late
as ihofe in Stroma. In vol xlvii. of llic Ph. 'IV. at large, is au account of a body found entire and im-
putrid al Siaverton la DcvwBilure, 80 years afici its inlci miir.,

7 was

■?*»^

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

was mnde a dupe to his own artifices, became pofltflcd witli a forious belief of thff
faculty, anJ for a cot^fidor-iblo number of years before his death was made truly un-
happy by thisftranj;:"' opinion, wliich originally arofe from the following accident. A
boat of his was on ,i \o> y tcMiip " oiis night at fi-a ; his mind filled with anxiety at th^
danp"" his people were in, fur n ricil mm with every idea of the misfortune that really
befell ihem : he luddenly (hrfing up, pronounced that his men v .' be drowned,
for hj had feen tht-m ;j,\ls boi ri- him with wet garments and droi;*;^ locks. The
evL-nt was correfpcndcnt, and ho from that time grew confirmed in the reality of
fpedf^ral predidinns.

There is anoiucr fort of divination, called Sleinanachd, or reading the Ipcal-bone, or
the blade-bone of a fhoulder of mutton well fcraped. "When Lord Loudon was obliged
to retreat before the rebels to the ifle of Sky, a rommon foldier, on the very moment
thj battle of Culloden was decided, proclaimed the vidory at ihatdiftance, pretending
to have dilcovered the event by looking, through the hone.

I heard of one inilanco ot' fecond fight, or rathor of fortfight, which was well atteft-
cd, and made miicii noife about the time the predicUon was fulfill d. A little after
the battle of Prefton Pans, the prefuknt, Duncan I'orbis, being at his houlc ofCullo-
den with a nobleman, Irom whom I had the relation, fell into difcourfe on the piobable
confcquences of the aclion ; after a long converfaiion, and alter revolving all that i.ight
happen, Mr. Forbes, fuddeiily turning to a window, laid, " all thcfe things may lall
our ; but depend on it, all thefe di(lurhance« will be terminated on this fpot."

Returned the fame rocid. Saw multitudes of ganncts, or Soland geefe, on their
pafiage northward : they went in fmall flocks from live to fifteen in each, and coti-
tuiucd p,i;ling for hours : it was a lloriny day ; they kept low, and near the fhorc ;
but never puffed over the land, even when a bay intervened, but followed (preferving aa
equal dilhmce from the (horel the form of tlie b;'.y, and then regularly doubled the
cap.^s. I faw many parties make a fort of halt for the fake of filhing ; they foared to
a great heiglit, then daitin ; down headlong into the fea, made the water foam and
fpringup with the violence j heir defcent ; nfter which they purfued their route.

Swans rcfort in Octol''; • » tltc lochs of Hcmprigs and Walter, and continue there
till M:nch. Abundiiii fi 1. ;id.rails arc found throughou* the county. Mulritudesof
feafowl breed in ihecliti.' ' :\!' ong others, the lyre j but thelValon being pjft, i neither
faw it, nor cculd underf and what fpecies it was •.

Went along a fine hard fand on the edge of Sinclair bay. On the fouth point, near
Nofs-hoad, on the fam': rock, arc Sinclair and Gernigo caflles ; but as it the joint te-
nants, like bcalls of prey, had been in ftar of each other, there was between them a
draw bridge ; the firil too had an iron

iron door, which dropped from above through
ed in the year 1603 by a wSinclair Earl of Caitlmefs.

grooves flill vifible : this w.is inhabit

Should the chapel ol St. 'i'ayre near this callle exill, I overlooked that fcene of
cruehy in ^47^* 1 he Keiths and the clan Gun had in that year a feud ; but a meeting
was fixed at this place for a reconciliation : tvtlve horle Were to convene on each fide.
The Cruncr, or chief of the clan Gun, and his fons and noarell kinfmen arrived firlt,
and were at their prayers in the chapel : when their antagonifl arrived with twelve
horfrs, but with two men on each horle, thinking that to bring no more than the flipu-
latcd number of horfcs was no breach of agreement. Thefe attacked the people in the
chapel, an 1 put them all to death, but with greal lofs to their own party, for the

* I have lincc learned that it ii the ijUcarwatcr or Manki Pctrrl of the Dr. ZogI II. No. 358

Cruncr

klief of tlic
ide truly UI1-
accident. A
nxicfy at th^

10 that really
bo drowned,
locks. The

the reah'ty of

pcal-bone, or
I was obliged
very moment
?, pretending

s well attcft-
V little after
ilo ofCuIlo.
the p. obabio

11 that i.'ight
ngs may lall
.t."

I'e, on their

:h, and con-

the fliorc ;

referving an

doubled \U^

ey foared to

foam and

route.

ntinue there
ulritudes of
ft, i neither

point, near
»e joint tc-
'een them a
•c I [i rough
f Caitlmefs.
u fcene of
It a meeting ■
» each ftde.
rived fird,
t'ith twelve
the flipu.
topic in the
y, for the

J. 258

Cruncr

PHNNANt's tour in SCOTLAND.

Cruncr and his friends fold their lives dear. 1 mention this ale? to oppofo the manncn
oi' the old Cathnrfi;!!! to thole of the prefent liofpitab • and worthy race.

Cathntfd may be called an immcnfe morals, mixed with foiin' fruitful fpo . of oats
and barley, much coarfe grafs, ami here and there lome rtii-', alinoli all natural, there
being as yet very little artificial. At this time was the hay harvt ft both here and about
Uunrobin: the hay on this rough land is ("t wilii fliurt fcythes, md with abriikaiid
ftrong ftroko. The country produces and 'Xi'-rts great quantities of oar meal, uud
much whilky is diiliiled from the barley : the great (I\innefs of inhabitants thronghout
Cathnefs enables them to fend abroad much i>f its produftions. No vvhiat had been
railed this year in the county ; and I was informed that this grain i;. fowu here a the
fpring, by reafon of the wei .ind furv ^the winters.

The county is fuppofed to fvm' *" '"" years, 2200 hcail of cattle ; but in bad

fealbns, the farmer kills and fairs numl i.ile. Great nunibers of fwine are reared

here : they ari-fliort, igh-back ' 1^' t,i.,.d, (harp, flender, and long nofed ; ha-
longcreft ears, and moft favag nd are feen tethered in almoil every field.

The reft of the commodities of Caiiini butter, chcefe, tallow, hides, the oil and

ikins of foals, and the feathers of geef

Here are neither barns nor granaries ; tlu corn isthraflied out and preferved in the
chaif in bykes, which are itack& in ihape of bee-hives, rhatched quite round, where it
will keep good for two years.

Much falmon is taken at Caftle-hill, Dunet, Wick, and Thui "0. The miraculous
draughtat the laft place is flill talked of ; not lefs than 2500 being taken at one tide,
within the memory of man. At a finall diftance from Sinclair caftle, near Staxigo
creek, is a fmall herring fifliery, the only one on the coaft : cod and other white tilh
aliound here ; but the want of ports on this ftormy coafl is an obftacle to the cftablilh-
ment of fdhcries on this fide the country.

In the month of November, numbers of foals * are taken in the vaft caverns that
open into the fea and run fome hundred yards underground. Their entrance is nar-
row, their infide lofty and fpacious. The feal-hunters enter thefe in finall boats with
torches, which they light as foon as they land, and then with loud fliouts alarm the ani-
mals, which they kill with clubs as they attempt to pafs. This is a hazardous employ ;
for fhould the wind blow hard from fea, thefe adventurers are inevitably loft t«

Much lime-ftone is found in this country, which when burnt is made into a compoft
with turf and fea plants. The tender fex (1 blufh for the Cathnefians) are the only
animals of burden : they turn their patient backs to the dunghills, and receive in their
keifes, or baikets, as much as their lords and mafters think fit to fling in with their
pitchforks, and then trudge to the fields in droves of fixty or fcvcnty. The common
people are kept here in great fervitudc, and moft of their time is given to their Lairds,
an invincible impediment to the profperity of the county.

Of tlie ten parlflies in Cathnefs, only the four that lie S. E. fpeak Erfc ; all the
others fpcak Englifli, and that in greater purity than moft part of North Britain \,
Latheron, Reay, Thurfo, and Halkirk, fpeak Erfe and Englilh j Bower, Canneft)y,
Dunnet, Watters, Obrick, and Wick, fpeak Englilh only

• Sometimes a large fpeciej twelve feet long has been ItilUd on the coafl; and I have been informtd
that tlie fame kind are fournJ on the rock HiHcir, one sf the VVeftern iflei.

f For a fuller account, vide Br. Zool. 37.

i I beg leave to refer the reader for a farther hiftory.of this country, and of Stratlinavero, to the Appen.
dix ; where ii iiifcrtcd, the obliging communication of the Rev. Mr. Alexander Pope, Miniflerof Reay.the
molt remote N. W. tiadt of North Britian, which completes the hiftory (,t thi^ dillaiit part of out iflaml.

VOL. III. N Inoculation

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

■ 50 ■^"

u U4

2.2

H2.0

^ 111= ilM

-►

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

73 WIST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. MSSO

(716) 172-4503

90 PENNANT 8 TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Inoculation is much praftifed by an ingenious phyfician (Dr. Mackenzie of Wick) in
this county, and alfo the Orkneys *, with great fuccefs, without any previous prepara-
tion. The fuccefs was equally great at Sanda, a poor ifle, where there was no fort of
fuel but what was got from dried cow-dung : but in all thefe places, the fmall-pox is
very fatal in the natural way. Other dif(?al'es in Cathnefs are colds, coughs, and very
frequently palfies.

The lalt private war in Scotland was occafioned by a difputc relating to this county.
The prefent Earl of Breadalbane's grandfather married an htirefs of Cathnefs : the in-
habitants would not admit her title ; but fet up another perlon in oppofuion. The
Karl, according to the cuftom of thofe ill-governed times, was to affert his right by
force of arms: heraifed an army of fifteen hundred men ; but the numbers, like thofe
under the conduft of Gideon, were thought to be too great : his lordihip firft difmiffed
five hundred ; after that, another five hundred ; and with the remainder marched to
the borders of Cathnefs. Here he thought proper to add ftratagem to force. He knew
that the enemy's army waited for him on the other fide of the Ord. He knew alfo
that in thofe days whifky was the ne£tar of Cathnefs : and in confequence ordered a
fhip laden with that precious liquor to pafs round, and willfully ftrand itfelf on the fhore*
The diredions were punftually obeyed ; and the crew in a feeming fright efcaped in
the boats to the invading army. The Cathnefians made a prize of the (hip, and indulg-
ing themfelves too freely with the freight, became an eafy prey to the Earl, who at-
tacked them during their intoxication, and gained the country, which he difpofed of
very foon after his conqueft.

I came here too late f to have any benefit from the great length of days ; but from
June to the middle of July, there is fcarce any night ; for even at what is called mid-
night the fmalleft print may be read, fo truly did Juvenal (lyle thefe people.

Minima contentoa nod\e Brita< .los.

Auguft 23d, on my way between Thrumfter and Dunbeth, again faw numbers of
flocks of Gannets keeping due north ; and the weather being very calm, they flew
high. It has not been obferved that they ever return this way in the fpring ; but feem
to make a circuit of the ifland, till they again arrive at the Bafs, their only breeding-
place on the eaflern coaft.

On defcending a fteep hill, is a romantic view of the two bridges over the waters
of Berridale and Langwall, and their wooded glens ; and of the caftle of Berridale f,
over the fea, where the falmon-fifliers flation themfelves to obferve the approach of
thofe fifli out of the ocean. After a tedious afcent up the King's road of four miles,
gain the top of the Ord, defcend, and lie at Helmfdale.

Auguft 24th to 29th, revifit the fame places, till I pafs Dingwall. Crofs the Conan
in a boat, a very beautiful river, not remote from Caftle Braan. Was in the neigh-
bourhood informed of other fingular cuftoms of the Highlanders.

On New year's day they burn juniper before their cattle, and on the firft Monday in
every quarter fprinkle them with urine.

In fome parts of the country, is a rural facrifice, different from that before men-
tioned. A crofs is cut on fomc fticks, which is dipped in pottage, and the Thurfday

• At this time a perfon waa employed in the fame biifinefs in the Shetland iflatids.

f Difides the miffing fo fingular a phxnomenon, I found that the bad weather, which begins earh'cr in
the north, was fetting in : I would therefore recommend to any traveller, who means to take this dillant
tour, to fet out from Edinburgh a month fooncr than I did.

t A little up the land i» the ruin of Ach calUe.

8 before

PENNANT 8 TOUR IN SCOTLAND. gi

before Eatter, one of each placed over the (heep-cot, the ftable, or the cow-houfe.
On the I ft of May, they are carried to the hill where the rites are celebrated, all deck-
ed with wild flowers, and after the feaft is over, re-placed over the fpots they were
taken from ; and this was originally ftyled Clou-an-Beltien *, or the fpHt branch of th©
lire of the rock. Thefe follies are now feldom praftifed, and that with the utmoft fe-
crecy ; for the clergy are indefatigable in difcouraging every fpecies of fuperllition.

In certain places the death of people is fuppofed to be foretold by the cries and
Ihrieks of Benihi, or the Fairies wife, uttered along the very path where the funeral is.
to pafs ; and what in Wales are called corps candles, are often imagined to appear, and
foretell mortality.

The courtfhip of the Highlander has thefe remarkable circumftances attending it :
after privately obtaining the confent of the fair, he formally demands her of the father.
The lover and his friends affemble on a hill allotted for that purpofe in every paridi,
and one of them is difpatched to obtain permifllon to wait on the daughter : it' he is
fuccefsful, he is again fent to invite the father and his friends to afcend the hill and par-
take of a whifky caflv, which is never forgot : the lover advances, takes his future
father-in-law by the hand, and then plights his troth, and the fair-one is furrendered up
to him. During the marriage ceremony, great care is taken that dogs do not pals
between them, and particular attention is paid to the leaving the bridegroom's left-lhoe
without buckle or latchet, to prevent witches t from depriving him, on the nuptial night,
of the power of loofening the virgin zone. As a teft, not many years ago a fingular cuf-.
torn prevailed in the weftern Highlands the morning after a wedding : a baiket was
fattened with a cord round the neck of the bridegroom by the female part of the com-
pany, who immediately filled it with ftones, till the poor man was in great danger of
being ftrangled, if his bride did not take compaffion on him, and cut the cord with a
knife given her to ufe at difcretion. But fuch was the tendernefs of the Caledonian
fpoufes, that never was an inftance of their tieglefting an immediate relief of their good
man.

Pafs near the Prior J of Beaulieu, a large ruin: crofs the ferry, and again reach
Invemefs.

Made an excurfion ten miles fouth of Invernefs to May-hall, pleafantly feated at the
end of a fmall but beautiful lake of the fame name, full of trout and char, called in the
Erfe, Tarrdheargnaich, and in the Scotch, Red Weems. This water is about two
miles and a half long, and half a mile broad, adorned with two or three ifles prettily
wooded. Each fide is bounded by hills cloathed at the bottom with trees ; and in
front, at the diftance of thirty miles, is the great mountain of Karn-gorm, patched with
fnow.

This place is called Starftinach-nan-gai'l, or the threfliold of the Highlands, being a
very natural and ftrongly marked entrance from the north. This is the feat of the Clan
Chattan, or the M 'In tofhes, once a powerful people: in the year 1715, fifteen hundred
took the field ; but in 1745, fcarce half that number: like another Abfalom, their fair
miftrefs was in that year fuppofed to have ftolen their hearts from her Laird their chief-
tain : but the fevereft loyalill muft admit fome extenuation of their error, in yielding
to the infinuations of fo charming a feduccr.

• M'Pherfon'8 introdiiftion, &c. 166.

+ An old opinion. Gcfner fays that the witches made ufe of toads as a charm, Ut vim coeundi, ni
fallor, in viris toUerent. Gefner de quad. ovi. p. "jt.
X Founded about 1 239, by Patrick BifTct, Laird of Lovat, for the monks of Valh's caulium.

N 2

Here

ffi

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

Here is preferved the fword of James V. given by that monarch to the captain of
Clan Chattan, with the privilepe of holding the King's fword at all coronations ; on
the blade is the word Jefus. That of the gallant Vifcount Dundee is alfo kept here.
The firfl was a confecrated fword prefented to James in 1 5 1 4, by Leo X. by the hands
of his Legate *. The ancient family was as refpeftable as it was powerful; and that
from very old times. Of this the following relation is fufficient evidence. In 1341 a
Monro of Foulisf having met with fome affront from the inhabitants of Strathardule,
between Perth and Athol, determined on revenge, collected his clan, marched, made
his inroad, and returned with a large booty of cattle. As he paffed by May-hall, this
thrclhold of the Highlands, the Mackintolh of J454 fent to demand the ftike creich or
road collop, being a certain part of the booty, challenged according to an ancient cuf<
tom by the chieftains for liberty of pafling with it through their territories. Monro ac-
quiefced in the demand, and offered a reafonable ihare ; but not lefs than half would
content the chieftain of Clan Chattan : this was refufed ; a battle enfued near Keffock ;
MackiiitoOi was killed ; Monro loll his hand, but from that accident acquired the
name of back-lawighe : and thus ended the conflidof Clagh-ne-herey.

Boethius relates, that in his time Invernefs was greatly frequented by merchants from
Germany, who purchafed here the furs of feveral forts of wild beads I ; and that wild
horfes were found in great abundance in that neighbourhood : that the country yielded
a great deal of wheat and other corn, and quantities of nuts and apples. At prefent
there is a trade in the (kins of deer, roes, and other beads, which the Highlanders bring
down to the fairs. There happened to be one at this time : the commodities were
ikins, various neceffaries brought in by the pedlars, coarfe country cloths, cheefe, but-
ter, and meal : the lad in goat-(kin bags ; the butter lapped in cawls, or leaves of the
broad alga or tang ; and great quantities of birch-wood and hazel cut into lengths for
carts, &c. which had been floated down the river from Loch-Nefs.

The fair was a very agreeable circumdance, and afforded a mod dngular groups of
Highlanders in all their motly dreffes. Their brechan, or plaid, confills of twelve or
thirteen yards of a narrow duff, wrapt round the middle, and reaches to the knees : is
often fadened round the middle with a belt, and is then called brechan-feill ; but in cold
weather is large enough to wrap round the whole body from head to feet ; and this
often is their only cover, not only within doors, but on '^^ open hills during the whole
night. It is frequently fadened on the dioulders with . often of filver, and before

with a brotche (like the fibula of the Romans) which . .>metimes of filver, and both
large and extenfive ; the old ones have very frequently mottos.

The dockings are fliort, and are tied below the knee. The cuaran is a fort of laced
flioe made of a flcin with the hairy fide out, but now feldom worn. The truis were
worn by the gentry, and were breeches and (lockings made of one piece.

The colour of their drefs was various, ao the word breaccan implies, being dyed with,
ftripes of the mod vivid hues : but they foinctimes affeded the duller colours, fuch as
imitated thofe of the heath in which they often repofcd; probably from a principle o£
kcurity in time of war, as one of the Scotch poets feems to indnuate.

• Leflie Hid. Scotix, 353.
■\ Conflifti of the Clans, p. 7.

X Ad NeflW lacut longi quatuor et viginti pafTuum millia, lati duodecim Intera; propter i'n;T«ntia nfmor».
ferarum iitgena cupia ell cervorum, rquorum imiomitorum, caprcolorum ct rjufmodi animantium magna viii :
ad hzc martirillK, fouinz ut vulg6 vocanturi vulpei, muftcllic, fibri, lutrxquc incomp<trahili numtru, quo-
nun tcrgora esters gentci ad luum immcDfo f rctio cocmunt. Scot, regni Defer. iX| hill. Scot. xxx.

Virgata

\ m

PEMNANT's tour jVi SCOTLAND,

VirgatB gaudent varii qute eft vefte colons,
Purpureutn et dcamant fere cteriileumque cclorcm }
Verum nunc plure* furciim magis, temula frondi
. . > Quxque erecina adamant, ut ne lux florida «cil.a

.y> Splendcntii prodat recubantei inquc ericetis.

Andrea Meltiki Topogr. Scotiu;.

The feil.beg, i. e. little plaid, alfo called kelt, is a fort of fhort petticoat reaching only
to the knees, and is a modern fubilitute for the lower part of the plaid, being found to
be Icfs cumberfome, efpecially in time of a£lion, when the Highlanders ufed to tuck
their brechcan into their girdle. Alraoft all have a great pouch of badger and other
(kins, with taflels dangling before: in this they keep their tobacco and money.

Their ancient arms were the Lochaber ax, now ufed by none but the town-guard of
Edinburgh j a tremendous weapon, better to be expreffed by a figure than words *.

The broad-fword and target ; with the laft they covered themfelves, with the firft
reached their enemy at a great diftance. Thefe were their ancient weapons, as appears
by Tacitus t ; but, fince the difarming aft, are fcarcely to be met with : partly owing
to that, partly to the fpirit of induflry now rifing among them, die Highlanders in a
few years will fcarce know the ufe of any weapon.

Bows and arrows were ufed in war as late as the middle of the hift century, as I find
in a manufcript life of Sir £wen Cameron.

The dirk was a fort of dagger ftuck in the belt. I frequently faw this weapon in the
fhambles of Invernefs, converted mto a butcher's knife^bemg, like Hudibras's dagger,.

. A ferviccable dudgeon, »

Either for fightfng or for drudging. ' '

The dirk was a weapos ufed by the ancient Caledonians } for Dfo Cafllus, in his ac«
count of the expedition of Severus, mentions it under the name of £v;^(^i(fio>|, pugio of
little dagger.

The mattucafhlafh, or arm-pit dagger, was worn there ready to be ufed on coming
to clofe quarters. Thefe, with the piflol ftuck in the girdle, completely armed the
Highlander §.

It will be fit to mention here the method the chieftains took formerly to aflemble the
clans for any military expedition. In every clan there is a known- place of rendezvous,
ftyled Cam-a-whin, to which they mud refort on this fignal. A perfoa is-fent out fulL
fpeed with a pole burnt at one end and bloody at the other, and with a crofs at the top,,
which is called Crofh-tarie, the crofs of ihame ((, or the fiery crofs ;. the firft from the
diigrace they would undergo if they declined appearing ; the (ecoxid from the- penalty

• Vide tab. xxxit.

■f- Simul conftantia, Cmul arte Britanni ingentibuB gladiis et brcTibus eetrii, ini0U:? noftrorum vitare vel
cxcuterc. Vita Agricolic, c. 36.

:( Xiphil. epit Dionis.

^ Major, who wrote about the year if<8, thua defcribei their arm*: Arcnnt et fagittas, latiflimiim-
cnfem cum parvo halbcrto, pugionem frruJIiim ex folo uno latere fcindentem, fed acutiffimam fub zona f«m-
per ferunt. Tempori beHi loricam ex lori- ferreis per totum corpus induunt. Lib. I. c. viii.

II This cuftom was common to the northern parts of £ur4'pe with fome flight variation, as appears fronii
OlaUB Magnus, p. 145, who defcribes it thus : Bacdilus tripai'maris, agilioris juvenis cnrfu precijpitt, ad.
iilum vel iHiim paguaa feu viHam hujufmodi edi£lo defeitudus committitur, ut 3, 4. vel 8 die unus, duo vel
trc8, aut viritim omncs vel finguli ab anno triluftri, cum armis cc txpcnfis 'O vel 20 dierum fub poena com-
buftionis domorum (quo uftobacculo) vel fufpenfionis patroui, aut omnium (qu» fune allegato fignatur)
in tali ripa, vel campo, aut valle comparere tcneautur fubito, CMifam vocatioois, atqae ordiaeia Ciccutionis
prcfcAi provincialii, ^uid fieri dcb<:at audituii*

1»ENMANT*8 TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

of having fire and fword carried through their country, in cafe of refufal. The firft
bearer delivers it to the next pcrfon he meets, he running full fpeed to the third, and
fo on. In every clan the bearer had a peculiar cry of war ; that of the Macdonald'.s
was freich, or heath; that of the Grants, craig-elachie; of the Mackenzics, tullickard*.
In the late rebellion, it was fent by fome unknown difaffeded hand througii the county
of Breadalbane, and pafl'ed through a traft of thirty-two miles in three hours, but with-
out effeft.

The women's drefs is the kirch, or a white piece of linen, pinned over the foreheads
of thofe that are married, and round the hind part of the head, falling behind over
their necks. The fmgle women wear only a ribband round their head, wiiich they call
a fnood. The tonnag, or plaid, hangs over their (boulders, and is faftened before with
a brotche ; but in bad weather is drawn over their heads : I have alfo oblerved during
divine fervice, that they keep drawing it forward in proportion as their attention in-
creafes ; infomuch as to conceal at lafl their whole face, as if it was to exclude every,
external obje<El that might interrupt their devotion. In the county of Breadalbane
many wear, when in high drefs, a great pleated flocking of an enormous length, called
oflan preaflach : in other refpefts, their drefs refembtes that of women of the fame rank
in England ; but their condition is very difterent, being little better than flaves to our
fex.

This cuftom of covering the face was in old times abufed, and made fubfervient to
the purpofe of intrigue. By the fumptuary law of James II. in 1457, it was exprefsly
prohibited. It diretts that " na woman cum to kirk, nor to mercat, with hir face muf-
falled or covered, that fcho may not be kend, under the pane of efcheit of the courchie."
I fufpeft much, that the head-dreffes of the ladies were at that time of the prefent fa-
fhionable altitude ; for the fame flatute even prefcribes the mode of that part of apparel
as well as others : for, after direftions given to regulate the drefs of the men, they are
told " to make their wives and dauchters in like manner be abuilzed, ganand and cor-
refpondant for their eftate, that is to fay, on their head fliort curches with little hudes,
as ar ufed in Flanders, England, and other countries ; and as to their gownes, that na
woman wf;arc mertrickes f, nor letteis, nor tailes unfitt in length, nor furred under, but
on a halieilay. "

The manners of the native Highlanders may juftly be exprelTed in thefe words :
indolent to a high degree, unlefs roufed to war, or to any animating amiifement ; or I
may fay, from experience, to lend any difinterefted afliftance to the dillrefled traveller,
either on direding him on his way, or affording their aid in pafling the dangerous tor-
rents of the Highlands : hofpitable to the higheft degree, and full of generofity : are
much affeded with the civility of Grangers, and have in themfelves a natuf^l politenefs
and addrefs, which often flows from the meaneft when leaft expedled. Through my
whole tour I never met with a fmgle inllance of national refleftion ! their forberfance
proves them to be fuperior to the meannefs of retaliation : I fear they pity us ; but I
hope not indifcriminately. Are excellively inquifitive after your bufinefs, your name,
and other particulars of little confequence to them : moft curious after the politics of
the world, and when they can procure an old news-paper, will liften to it with all the
avidity of Shakfpeare's blackfmith. Have much pride, and confequently are impatient
of affronts, and revengeful of injuries. Are decent in their general behaviour ; in-
clined to fuperftition, yet attentive to the duties of religion, and are capable of giving a
mod dillind account of the principles of their faith. But in many parts of the High-

SLaw's Hlft. Moray, 231.

f Mertrickcj are fiirj of the martin's flcin.

Iand<!

The firfl
third, and
icdonald'.s
illickard*.
he county

but with-

foreheads
hind over
1 they call
!fore with
?d during
:ntion in-
de every
ladalbane
th, called
ame rank
es to our

rvient to
exprefsly
ace muf.
urchie."
'cfent fa-
f apparel
they are
and cor-
e hudes,
, that na
der, but

words !
It ; or I
'aveller,
ous tor-
ty: are
)litenefs
Jgh my
erfance
; but I
' name,
litics of

all the
patient
ir ; in.
iving a

High.

land?

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

lands, their charafter begins to be more faintly marked ; they mix more with the
world, and become daily lefs attached to their chiefs : the clans begin to difperfe them-
felves through different parts of the country, finding that their indullry and good con>
duft afford them better protection (fince the due execution of the laws) than any their
chieftain can afford ; and the chieftain, tailing the fweets of advanced rents, and the
benefits of induftry, difmiffes from his table the crowd of retainers, the former inftru-
ments of his oppreffion and freakifh tyranny.

Moft of the antient fports of the Highlanders, fuch as archery, hunting, fowling, and
fiihing, are now difufed ; thofe retained are, throwing the putting-ftone, or ftone of
ftrength •, as they call it, which occafions an emulation who can throw a weighty one
the fariheft. Throwing the penny-ftone, which anfwers to our coits. The fhinty, or
flriking of a ball of wood or of hair ; this game is played between two parties in a
large plain, and furnilhed with clubs } whichever fide flrikes it firfl to their own goal
wins the match.

The amufements by their fire-fides were the telling of tales, the vvildefl and mofl:
extravagant poflible ; mufic was another : in former times the harp w;is the favourite
inftrument, covered with leather, and hung with wire f, but at prefent is quite loft.
Bagpipes are fuppofed to have been introduced by the Danes ; this is very doubtful,
but fliall be taken notice of in the next volume ; the oldeft are played with the mouih,
the loudeft and moft ear-piercing of any wind mufic ; the others, played with the fin-
gers only, are of Irifti origin : the firft fuited the genius of this warlike people, roufed
their courage to battle, alarmed them when fecure, and collefted them when fcattered.
This inftrument is become fcarce fince the abolition of the power of the chieftains, and
the more induftrious turn of the common people.

The trum, or Jew's harp |, would not merit the mention among the Highland inftru-
ments of mufic, if it was not to prove its origin and antiquity : one made of gilt
brafs having been found in Norway §, depofited in an urn.

Vocal mufic was much in vogue amongft them, and their fongs were chiefly in
praife of their antient heroes. I was told that they ftill have fragments of the ftory of
Fingal and others, which they carrol as they go along : thefe vocal traditions are the
foundation of the works of Offian.

Aug. 3 1 . Leave Invernefs, and continue my journey weft for fome time by the
river.fide ; have a fine view of the plain, the Tomman, the town, and the diftant hills.
After the ride of about fix miles reached Loch-Nefs ||, and enjoyed along its banks a
moft romantic and beautiful fcenery, generally in woods of birch, or hazel, mixed
a few holly, white-thorn, afpin, alh and oak, but open enough, in all parts to admit
a fight of the water. Sometimes the road was ftraight for a confiderable diftance, and
refembled a fine and regular avenue ; in others, it wound about the fides of the hills
which overhung the lake j the road was frequently cut through the rock, which, on one
fide, formed a folid wall, on the other, a fteep precipice. In many parts, we were im-
merfed in woods, in others, they opened and gave a view of the fides and tops of the
vaft mountains foaring above i lome of thefe were naked, but in general covered with

• Cloch neart.

f M»jor fays, '* Pro itiuficis inllrumtruls et mufico concentu. lyra fylveftre* utuntur, ciijus chordae ex
sere, et non ex animaliiim interim's faciunt, in qua dulciflime modulantur." '

t Probably, as an ingenious friend ftiggeded, this Ihould be read, the Jawrs-harp. , .

§ Sir Thomas Brown's Hydriotaphia, p. 8.

11 This beautiful Uke has a great rclemblaacc to fome parts of the lake of Lucerne, cfpecially towai d j
the call end.

wood,

^6 pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

■uood, except on tho mere precipices, or where the grey rocks denied vegetation, or
Avhere th-i heath, now glowing with purple blodbms, covered the furfaco. The form
of thefe hills was very various and irregular, cither broken into frequent precipices, or
towering into rounded fummits cl^athed with trees; but not fo clofe but to admit a
fi^ht of the (kv between thcni. Thus, for many miles, there was no pofllbility of cul-
tivation ; yet this tract was occupied by diminutive cattle, by (heep, or by goats : the
lad were pied, and lived moll luxurioufly on the tender branches of the trees. The
wild animals that poireHbd this pidurclque fccnc were flags and rocs, black game, and
g'ous ; and, on the fummits, white hares and ptarmigans. Foxes are fo numerous
and voracious, that the farmers are fometimes forced to houfe their fiieep, as is done in
France for fear of the wolves.

It ir. to me matter of furprifo that no mention is made, in the Poems of Ofllian, of
our great beads of prey, which mufl have abounded in his days ; for the wolf was a
pell to the country fo hite as the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and the bear c}(ifted there
at lead till the year 1057, when a Gordon, for killing a fierce bear, was direded by
King Malcolm III. to carry three bear's heads in his banner*. Other native
animals are often mentidncd in feveral parts of the work ; and in the five little
poems on Night, compofitions of as many Bards, every modern Britifh bead of chace
is enumerated, the howling dog and the howling fox dcfcribed ; yet the howling wolf
omitted, which would have made the bard's night much more hideous.

Dr. Johnfon, in his journal to the Wedern Ifles, p. 297, in a drifture on a paffage
in one of my Tours, infinuatcs my belief in the writings of Odlan ; but the la(c para-
graph might have evinced my fcepticifm. In the five fird lines of p. 275 of che fame
work, by that good and learned man, is colleded the fum of my belief.

The north fide of Loch-Nefs is far lefs beautiful than the fouth. In general, the
hills are lefs high, but very deep ; in a very few places covered with brulh-wood, but
in general very naked, from the Aiding of the drata down their doping fides. About
the middle is Cadle Urquhart, a fortrefs founded on a rock projecting into the lake, and
was faid to have been the feat of the once powerful Cummins, and to have been de-
(Iroyed by Edward I. Near it is the broaded part of the Loch, occafioncd by a bay
near the cadle.

Above is GIcn-Moridon, and ead of that Straith-Glas, the Chifolm's country ; in
both of which arc foreds of pines, where the rare bird, the cock of the wood, is dill
to be met with ; perhaps in thofe near Cadle Grant. Formerly was common through-
out the Highlands, and was called Capercalze, and Auercalze, and in the old law-books,
Capercally. The variety of the black game, mentioned by M. Briflbn, under the name
of Coq. de Bruycre piquet^, was a mixed breed between thefe two birds j but I could not
liear that any at prefent were to be found in North Britain. Linnaeus has met with
them in Sweden, and defcribes them under the title of Tetrao cauda bifurca fubtus a/bo
punSlata. At Glen-Morifton is a manufaAure of linen, where forty girls at a time are
taught for three months to fpin, and then another forty taken in : there are befides fix
looms, and all fupported out of the forfeited lands.

Above is the great mountain Meal Fourvounich ; the firft land failors make from
the ead fea.

I was informed that in that neighbourhood are gtens and cafcadesof furprifing beauty»
but my time did not permit me to vifit them.

Dined at a poor inn near (he General's Hut, or the place where General Wade re.
ilded when he infpedcd the great work of the roads, and gave one rare example of

* Hill. Gordoni, I. p. 3.

nuking

v.^

WNNANT's tour, in SCOTLAND.

fetation, or

The form

'ecipices, or

to admit a

Ility of cuU

goats: the

rccs. The

game, and

) numerous

s is done in

f Oflian, of
wolf was a
billed there
dire£ted by
ther native
e five little
ad of chace
)wling wolf

n a palTage
e la(c para-
)f the fame

;enera1, the
•wood, but
)S. About
>e lake, and
'e been de-
d by a bay

Wade re-
example of

making

making the foldlory ufcful in time of peace. Near is a fine glen covered at the bot-
tom with wood, through which runs a torrent riling fouthward. The country alfo is
prettily varied with woods and corn-fields.

About a mile fiirthcr is the fall of Fyers, a vaft cataraft in a darkfome glen of a ftu-
pendous depth ; the water darts far beneath the top through a narrow gap between
two rocks, then precipitates above forty feet lower into tlie bottom of the chafm, and
the foam, like a great cloud of linokc, rifes and fills the air. 'J'he fides of this glen arc
vaft precipices mixed with trees over-hanging the water, through which, after a Ihort
fpace, the waters dilchargc thetnfelves into the lake.

About half a mile fouth of the firfi: fall is another pafling through a narrow chafm,
whofe fides it has undermined for a confiderable way ; ovei* the gap is a true Alpine
bridge of the bodies of trees covered with fods, from whofe middle is an aweful view of
the water roaring beneath.

At the fall of Foher the road quits the fide of the lake, and is carried for fome fpace
through a fmall vale on the fide of the river Fyers, where is a mixture of fmall plains
of corn and rocky hills.

Then fucceeds a long and dreary moor, a tedious afcent up the mountain See-chui-
min, or Cummin's feat, whofe fummit is of a great height and very craggy, Defcend
a deep road, leave on the right Loch-1'aarf, a fmall irregular piece of water, decked
with little wooded ifles, and abounding with char. After a fecond deep defcent, reach

Fort Augudus *, a fmall fortrefs, feated on a plain at the head of Lock-Nefs, be«
tweea the rivers Taarf and Oich ; the lad is confiderable, and has over it a bridge of
three arches. The fort confids of four badions ; wuhin is the governor's houfe, and
barracks for 400 men : it was taken by the rebels in 1746, who immediately deferted
it, after demolidiing what they could.

Loch-Nefs is twenty-two miich in length, the breadth from one to two miles, except
near Callle Urquhart, where it fwells out to threa. The depth is very great ; oppo-
lite to the rock called the horfe-lhoe, near the wed end, it has been found to be 140
fathoms. From an eminence near the fort -is a full view of its whole extent, for it is
perfectly draight, running from ead to wed, with a point to the fouth. The boundary
from the fall of Fyers is very deep and rocky, which obliged General Wade to make
that detour from its banks, partly on account of the expence in cutting through fo
much folid rock, partly through an approhenlion that, in cafe of a rebellion, the troops
might be dedroyed in their march, by the tumbling down of dones by the enemy
from above : befides this, a prodigi^ u ; arch mud have been flung over the Glen of
Fyers.

This lake, by reafon of its great deptii, never freezes, and, during cold weather, a
violent deam rifes from it as from a furnace. Ice brought from other parts, and put
into Loch-Nef.<, inftaatly thaws ; but no water freezes fooner than that of thejaka
when brought into a houfe. Its water is edoemed very falubrious, fo that people come
or lend thirty miles for it : old Lord Lovat in particular made condant ui'e of it.
But it is certain, whether it he owing to tlie water, or to the air of that neighbourhood,
that for feven years the garifon of Fort Augudus had not lod a fingle man.

The fidi of this lake are lalmon, which are in feafon from Chrilliuas to Midfummer ;
trouts of about two pound weight, pikes and eels. During winter, it is frequented by
fwans and other wild fowls.

• Its Erff name is Kil-chuimiii, or the burial place cf the Cummins. It lies on the roaJ to the Tfle of
Skie, which is about fifty-two milei off; but on the whole way, there is not a place fit for the reception
of mail or horfc.

VOL. Ill, o The

*i'

l>RNNANT*8 TOI»R IN ICOtLANB.

The grcatcrt rife of water in Loch-Ntfs is fmirtecn feet. Tlie lakes from whence It
receives its fupplics are Loch-dich, Loch-Garrie, and Loch-Quich. There is but
very little navigation on it ; the only vofTcl is a gaily belonging to the fort, to bring
the Uorps from the call end, the river Nefs being too fliallow for navigation.

It is violcrtly agitatetl by the winds, and at times the waves are quite mountainous.
November ill, 1755, at the fame time as the earthqu.ike at Lifbon, thcfe waters were
afFcdcd in a veiy extraordinary manner : tlicy rofe and flowed up the lake from eaft
to \vr(l with vaft impetuofity, and were earned above 200 yards up the river Oich,
breaking on its banks in a wave near three feet high ; then continued ebbing and flow-
ing for the fpace of an hour ; but at eleven o'clock, a wave greater than any of the
relt came up the river, broke on the north fide, and overflowed the bank for the ex-
tent of thirty feet. A boat near the General's Hut, loaden with bru(h-woo<J, was
thrice driven afliore, and twice carried back again; but the laft time, the rudder was
broken, the wood forced out, and the t oat filled with water and left on (hore. At
the fame time, a little ifle, in a fmall loch in Badenoch, was totally reverfed and flung
on the beach. But at both thefe places no agitation was felt on land.

Sept. I. Rode to the caftle of Tor-down, a rock two miles weft of Fort Auguftus :
on the fummit is an antient fortrefs. The face of this rock is a precipice ; on the
acceflible fide is a flrong dyke of loofe ftones, above that a ditch, and a little higher a
terrafs fupported by ftones ; on the top, a fmall oval area hollow in the middle ; round
this area, for the depth of near twelve feet, are a quantity of ftones ftrangely cemented
with almoft vitrified matter, and in fome places quite turned into black fcoria ; the
ftones were generally granite, mixed with a few grit-ftones of a kind not found nearer
the place than forty miles. Whether this was the antient fite of fome forge, or whe-
ther the ftones which form this fortrefs • had been collerted from the ft rata of fome
velcano, (for the veftigos of fuch are faid to have been found in the Highlands) 1 fub-
mit to farther inquiry.

From this rock is a view of Ben-ki, a vaft craggy mountain above Glen-Garrie's
country. Towards the fouth is the high mountain Coryarich : the afcent from this
fide is nine miles, but on the other the delcent into Badenoch is very rapid, and not
above one, the road being, for the cafe of the traveller, cut into a zig-zag f.iftiion.
People often perifti on the fummit of this hill, which is frequently vifited during winter
with dreadful ftorms of fnow.

Sept. a. After a ftiort ride weftward along the plain, reach Loch-Oich, a narrow
lake ; the fides prettily indented, and the water adorned with fmall wooded ifles. On
the Ihore is Glen Garrie, the feat of Mr. M'Donald, almoft furrounded with wood,
and not far diftant is the ruin of the old caftle. This lake is about four miles long ;
the road on the fouth fide is excellent, and often carried through very pleafant woods.
After a fmall interval, arrive on the banks of Loch-Lochy, a fine piece of water
fourteen miles long, and from one to two broad. The diltant mountains on the north
were of an immenfe height ; thofe on the fouth had the appearance of ftieep-walks.
The road is continued on th< fide of the lake about eight miles. On the oppofite
ftiore was Achnacarrie, once ihe feat of C:imcron of Lochiel, but burnt in 1746. He
was efteemed by all parties the honefteft and moft feniible man of any that embarked
in the pernicious and abfurd attempt of that and the preceding year, and was a me-
lancholy inftance of a fine underftanding and a well intending heart, over-powered
by the unhappy prejudices of education. By his influence, ho prevented the Rebels

• I w« inforir.rd tUat at A/ifaig i» an old caftlt formed of the fame materials.

from

PENNANT 8 TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

9'>

)untamou8.

from committing fevcral excedes, and even favcd the city of Glafgow from I)eing p'.uii-
dered, when their army returned out of Englaiul, irritated with their difappointTnenr,
and enraged at the loyalty that city had fhewa. The I'reten.ler cam^ to liim as foon as
ever he landed. Lochiul feeing him arrive in fu wild a manner, and fo unfapportcd,
entreated him to dofift from an enterprize from which nothing but certain ruin could
rcfuh to him and his partizans. The adventurer grew warm, and reproached Lochiel
with a breach of promifc. This aft'cded him fo deeply, that he indantly w nt and
took a tender and moving leave of his lady and family, imagining he was on the point
of parting with them for ever. The income of his ellate was at that time, as I was
told, not above 700I. per annum, yet he brought fourteen hundred men into the field.

The waters of this lake form the river Lochy, and difcharge themfelves into the
weftem fea, as thofe of Loch-Oich do through Loch-Nefs into the eaftern. About the
beginning of this lake enter Lochaber*; (lop at Low-bridge, a pjjr houfe; travel
over a black moor for fome miles ; fee abundance of cattle, but fcarce any corn. Crofs

High-bridge, a fine bridge of three arches flung over the torrent Spean, founded on
rocks ; two of the arches are ninety-five feet high. This bridge was built by General
Wade, in order to form a communication with the country. 'I'hefe public works were
at firft very difagrecable to the old chieftains, and lelTened their influence greatly ; for,
by admitting ftrangers among them, their clans were taught that th^e Lairds were not
the firft of men. But they had another reafon much more folid ; Lochaber had been
a den of thieves ; and, as long as they had their waters, their torrents and thifir bogs,
in a (late of nature, they made their excurfions, could plunder and retreat with their
booty in full fecurity. So weak were the laws in many parts of North Britain, till after
the late rebellion, that no (lop could be put to this infamous practice. A contribution,
called the Black-mail, was raifed by feveral of thefe plundering chieftains over a vail
extent of country : whoever paid it had their cattle enfured, but thofe who dared to
refufe were fure to fufFer. Many of thefe freebooters were wont to infert an article,
by which they were to be releafed from their agreement, in cafe of any civil commo*
tion : thus, at the breaking out of the lafl rebellion, a M'Gregor f, who had with the
ftrideft honour (till that event) prefen''\l his friends' cattle, immediately fent them
word, that from that time they were out cf his proteftion, and muft now take care of
themfelves. Barrifdale was another of this clafs, chief of a band of robbers, who
fpread terror over the whole country : but the Highlanders nt that time efleemed the
open theft of cattle, or the making a creach, (as they call it,) by no means difhonour-
able ; and the young men confidered it a piece of gallantry, by which they recom-
mended themfelves to their miftreflTos. On the other fide, there was often as much
bravery in the purfuers ; for frequent battles enfuod, and much blooj has been fpilt
on thi I" occafions. They alfo (hewed great dexterity hi tracing the robbers, not only
through the boggy land, but over the firmefl grouml, and even over places where
other cattle had pafTed, knowing well how to diftinguilh the fteps of tiiofe that were
wandering about fnjm thofe that were driven haflily away by the freebooters.

From the road had a diftant view of the mountains of Arifai», beyond which were
Moydart, Kinloch, &c. At the end of Loch-fhiel the Pretender firll fet up his (land-
ard in the wildeft place that imagination cun frame : and in this fequertered fpot
amidft antient prejudices, and prevailing ignorance of the blefTuigs of our happy conlli-
tution, the (Irength of tho rebellion lay.

* So cnllfd from a lake not far from Fort William, near whofe banks Banquo wai faid to hare been
murdered, f Who aflumed the name of Graham.

O t

Pafs

leo

PrNMANT'l TOUR IN 8CdTLAN0.

Pafs by the river Lochy, now confiJorable. See Invcrlochy caftle, with large roiin J
towers, which, by the mode ot building, lotms to have been the work of tlie Enj^lilh,
in the time of Kdward I. who laid lar^c lint'S on the Scotch barons for tlie purpi)fe of
creding new caftlcs. The largcft of tlu'l'i! towers is called Ciiiiunin't), But lon;T prior
to thefe ruins Inverlochy had been a place of groat note, a moll opulont ciir, remark-
able for the vail rcfort of French a*nd Spaniards *, prol)ably on account ot trade. It
was alfo a feat of the Kings of Scotland, for liore Achaius in the year 790 fignod (a«
is reported) the league offenfive and dcfcnfive between hiinfelf and Charlemagne'. In.^
after-times it was utterly di'llroycd by the Danes, and never again rellored. *

In the neighbourhood of this place were fuiiLht two tierce battles, one between
Donald Balloch, In-othor to Alexander Lord of the iflcs, who with a great power in*
vaded Lochaber in the year 1427 : he was met by the Karls of Mar and Caithnifs, the-
lafl: was ilain, and their forces totally defeated i. Kalloch retunvd to the ifles with
vail booty, the objeft of thofe plundering chieftains. Here alfo the Campbells, under
the Maquis of Argyle in February 1^45, received from Montrofe, an overthrow fatal
to numbers of that gallant name. Fifteen hundred fell in the action, and in the pur-
fuit, with the lofs only of three to the royalilts. Sir 1 honias Oglevie, the friend of
Montrofe, died of his wounds. His death fupprell'cd all joy for the vidnry.

At Invcrlochy is Fort William, built in King William's reign ; as was a fmall town<
near it called Maryborough, in honour of his Queen ; but, prior to tliat, had been a
fmall fortrefs, erefted by General Monk, with whofe pjople the famous Sir F.wen
Cameron | had numerous contefls. The prefent fort is a triangle, has two bailions,
and is capable of admitting a garrifon of Soo men. It was well defended againft the
Rebels in 1746, who railed the fiege with much difgrnce. It was alfo attempted by
thofe of 1715, but without fuccefs. The lori lies on a narrow arm of the fea, called
Lochiel, which extends fome miles higher up the country, making a bend to the
north, and extends likcwilo wed ward towards the ille of Mull, near twenty-four Scotch
miles.

This fort on the wefl, and Fort Augudv.s ii\ the centre, and Fort George on the
eafl, form what is called the chain. Iron) fea to Ha. This fpacc is called Glen-more,
or the great glen, wliicii, including water and land, is almoil a level oi fevcnty miles.
There is, in ht\ but little land, but what is divided by firth, loch, or river; except the
two miles which lie between Loch-Oich and l.och-Lothy, called I/agan-achadrom. Hy
means of Fort George, all entrance up the firth towards Invernefs is prevented. %^n
Auguflus curbs the inhabitants midway, and Fort William is a check, to any attempts
in the wefl. Detachments arc made from all thefe garrifons to Invernefs Bernera bar-
rack oppofitc to the Ille of Rkie, and CafHe Duart in the Iflo of Mull §. Other Imall
parties are alfo fcattercd in huts throughout the country, to prevent the flealiiig of
cattle.

Fort William is furroun Jed by va't mountains, which occafion almoft pcrpcttial rain :
the loftiefl are on the fouth fide ; I ncviOj foars above the rcit, and ends, a-* I was told,
in a point, (at this linie concealed i- niitl) whofe heijjht from the fea is laid to be 14^0
yards. As an antient Briion, I la . out the difgrace of Saowdon, once efteemed the
highed hill in the ifland, but no^r mull yield the palm to a Caledonian mountain.

• Boeihius. Scot. Rrgni Defer. 4, f B ichnii»n, lib x. c. i%.

I Wlio is faid to have killed (lie l.iil w If in ScutlaiM, bbuiit the ycitr i6?o. Minioirs of tliit Celebrated
chicftiiin are jjiven in the Apptndix.

j I was IiifDrmcil that cual hiit lute / been difcovercd in this ifl.ind. VVIiat adv,tnta|;e may not tlii*
pruve, ia ellablilhmcnts uf inanuf'^durcs, in a country j'lil ruufcd from llic I<ip of iiiduleiicc I

But

»£NNANT's tour in 800TLANB.

But I hive my doubts whether this might not be rivalled, or perhaps furpafTed, b/'
othfra in the fame country ; for examples Bon y bourd, a central hill, from whence to
the fea there is a continued and rapid dd'ccnt of fcvcnty miles, as may be feen by the
violent courfc of the Dec to Aberdten. Dut their height has not yet been taken,
which to be done taiily nuifl: be from tlic fea. Bencvilh, as well as many others, har-
bours fnow throup;liotit tho year.

The bad weatiier which reigned during my flay in thefe parts, prevented mc from
vifiting the celebrated parallel roads in Glen-Roy. As I am unable to fatisfy the curi-
ofity of the reader from my own obfervation, I mall deliver in the Appendix the infor-
mation I could coiled relating to thefe amazing works.

'Jhe great produce of Lochaber is cattle : that diftrift alone fends out annually
3000 head ; but if a ]iortion of Invernelklhire is included, of which this properly is
part, the number is 10,000. There arc alio a few horfes bred here, and a very few
fheep ; but of late feveral have been imported. Scarce any arable land, for the cxcef-
five wet which reigns here alnioft totally prevents the growth of corn, and what little
there is fit for tillage lets at ten fliillings an acre. The inhabitants of this diftricl are
therefore obliged, for their luppnrt, t > import 6000 bolls of oatmeal annually, which
cod about 4000I. •, the rents are about 3000I. per annum } the return for their cattle is
about 7500I. ; the horfes may produce fome trifle ; fo that the tenants muft content
themfelvcs with a very fcaiity fubfiftence, without the profpcft of faving the load
ngaind unforcfeen accidents. The rage of raifing rents has reached this diltant coun-
try : in r.iiglanil tiure may be reafon ior it, (in ■ ertain degree) where the valcie of
huuls is increaied by acceflion of commerce, and by the rife of provifions : but here
(contrnry to all policy the grtat nun begin at the wrong end, with fqucezing the bag,
before they haveh. Iped the poor tcn.uu to fill it, by the introduftion of manufadure;..
In many of the illcs this already fliews its unhappy effcft, and begins to depopulate th^'
eoimiry ; for numbers of famihes have been obliged to give up the flrong attachment
the Scots in general have for thoir country, and to exchange it for the wilds of
America.

'I h(^ houfes of the peafants in Lochaber are the mod wretched that can be imagined ;
framcil of upright poles, which are wattled ; tlie roof is formed of boughs hke a wig-
wam, and the whole is covered with fods ; fo that in this moid climate their cottages
have a perpetual and much liner verdue than the red of the country.

Salmons are taken in thefe parts as late as May ; about 50 tons are caught in the
fcafon. Thefe fifh never appear fo early on this coaltas on thecadern.

Phinocs are taken here in great luunb^r: , 1 500 iiaving been taken at a draught.
They come in Au;:;iid, ami difappear in November. They are about a foot long, their
colour grey, fpott.d with black, their lie fli red; rife eagerly to u fly. The filhermen:
fuppole rliem to be the young of what they call a great trout, weighing 3olb. which I
I'lippoie is the grey *.

September ^th, left Fort William, and proceeded fouth along the military road on
the fide of a hill, an awful height above Loch-Levcnf, a branch of the fea, fo narrow
as tc5 have only the appearance of a river, bounded on both fides with vad mountains,,
among whofe winding bottoms the title rolled in with folcmn majedy. The fcencry
begins to grow very ix)mantic ; on the wed fide are fome woods of birch and pinfes ::
the hills are very lofty, many of them taper to a point j and my old friend, the 'late

• Br. Zonl. III. No. 144.

+ The country pcopk have a mod fiipciditious deHre of being buried in the little ifle of Mun, in this
loch.

woi'thy

-M

loa

PtNMANT*8 TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

worthy bifliop Pocock, compared the ftiape of one to mount Tiibor. Beneath them
is Glen-Co, infamous for the inaflacre of its inhabitants in 1691, and celebrated for
liaving (as feme affert) given birth to Ollian ; towards the north is Morven, the coun-
try of his hero Fingal.

" The fcenery * of this valley is far the mod pi£lurefque of any in the Highlands,
being fo wild and uncommon that it never fails to attract the eye of every ftranger of
the leaft degree of Ui'\e or fcnfibility. The entrance to it is ftrongly marked by the
craggy mountain of Buachalety, a little weft of the King's houfe. All the others
mountains of Glen-Co rcfomble it, and are evidently but naked and folid rocks, rifing
on each fide perpendicularly to a great height from a flat narrow bottom, fo that in many
places they feem to hang over, and make approaches, as they afplre, towards each other.
The tops of the ridge of hills on one fide are irregularly ferrated for three or four miles,
and fhot in places into fpires, which form the moil magnificent part of the fcenery above
Ken Lock-Leven. In tlie middle of the valley is a fmall lake, and from it runs the
r»ver Coan, or Cona, celebrated in the works of Ofllan. Indeed no place could be
moro happily calculated than this for forming the tafte and infpiring the genius offuch
a poet.

" The principal native animals on the mountains of Glen- Co are red deer, Alpine
hares, fuxes, eagles, ptarmigans, and a few moor-fowl. It is remarkable that the com-
mon hare was never feen eithei here, in Glen-Creran, or Glen-Ety, till the military
roads were made. The partridge is a bird but lately known here, and is ftill rare.
There are neither rats nor vipers.

*' In Gleu-Co arc fix farms, forming a rent of 24 il. per annum : the only crops are
oats, bear and potatoes. The incrciife of oats is three bolls and a half from one j of
bear four or five. But the inhabitants cannot fubfift upon their harveft : a!)out three
hundred pounds worth of meal is annually imported. They fell about feven hundred
pounds worth of black cattle ; but keep only fliecp and goats for the ufe of private
families : neither butter or chcefe is made for fale. The men fervants are paid in
kind ; and commonly married.

" Glen-Co lies in the united parilhes of Lifmore and Appin, and contains • abou tfour
hundred inhabitants, who are vifited occafionally by a preacher from Appin."

Leave on the left a vaft citaraft, precipitatin^j itfelf in a great foaming ftieet between
two lofty perpendicular rocks, with tiecs growing out of the fiffures^ forming a large
flream, calitd the water of Boan.

Breakfad at the little village of Kinloch-Leven on moft excellent minced flag, the
only form I thought that animal good in.

Near this village Is afiiigle farm fourteen miles long, which lets for only 35I per
annum \ and from the nature of the foil, perhaps not very cheap.

Saw her^a quern, a fort of portable mill, made of two ftonos about two feet broad,
thin at the edges, and a little thicker in the middle. In the centre of the upper (tone is
a hole to pour in the corn, and a pep by way of handle. The whole is placed on a
cloth; the grindtr pours the corn into the hole with one hand, and with the other
turns round the upper ilonc with a very rapid motion, while the meal runs out at the
fides on the cloth. Tliis is rather prcferved as a curiofity, being much out of ufe at
prefent. Such are fuppoleJ 10 be the fame with what are common among tlie Moors,
being the fimple fubditute of a mill.

• I afT inrirbtrd to llic Rev. Mr Juhii Stuart of KiHiii for tlir difciiption of tliis curioui vail y, having
only had a Jiilaiit vifwof it. f Ktpott of the Vifitation, 6(c. 1760.

12 Immediately

jPENKANT'a TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

'03

Alpine

rare.

35I /tr

Immediately after leaving Kinloch-Levcn the mountains foar to a far greater height
than beFore ; the fides are covered with wood, and the bottoms of the glens filled with
torrents that roar amidft the loofe ftones. After a ride of two miles begin to afcend
the black mountain, in Argylcfliire, on a deep road, which continues about three miles
alnioft to the fummit, and is certainly the higheft public road in Great Britain. On the
other fide the defcent is fcarce a mile, but is very rapid down a zig-zag way. Reach
the King's houfe, feated in a plain : it \va« built for the accommodation of His Majefty'a
troops, in their march through this dofolate country, but is in a manner unfurniflied.

Pafs near Loch-Talla, a long narrow piece of water, with a fmall pine wood on its
fide. A few weather-beaten pines and birch appear fcattered up and down, and in all
the bogs great numbers of roots, that evince the foreft that covered the country within
this half century. 1 hcfe wcr the lad pines which I faw growing fpontaneoufly in
North Britain. The pine forefls are become very rare : I can enumerate only thoi'e on
the banks of Loch Rannoch, at Invercauld, and Brae-Mar; at Coygach and Dirry-
Monach: the firll in Straithnavern, the lad in Sutherland. Thofe about Loch-Loyn,
Glen-Morrifton, and Straith-Glas ; a fmall one near Loch-Garrie ; another near Loch-
Arkig, and a few fcattered trees above Kinloch-Leven, all in Invernefsfliire ; and I was
alfo informed that there are very confiderable woods about Caftle-Grant. I faw only
one fpecies of pine in thofe I vifited : nor could I learn whether there was any other
than what ■? vulgarly called the Scotch Fir, whofe fynonyms are thefe :

Pinus fpvjlris foliis brevibus glaucis^ conis parvis albentibus. Raii hift. pi. 1 40 1 . Jyn.
ilirp. Br. 442.

Pinusfy he/iris. Gerard's herb. 1356. Lin. fp. pi. 1418. Flora Angl. 361.

Pin d Ecojft'i ou de Geneve. Du Hamel Traite des Arbrcs. IL 125. No. 5.

Fyrre. Strom. Sondmor. 12.

Mod of this long day's jou* ney from the black mountain was truly melancholy, al-
mod one continued fcene of duiky moors, without arable land, trees, houfes, or living
creatures, for numbers of miles. The names of the wild trads I paffed through were,
Buachil-ety Corricha-ba, and Bendoran.

The roads are excellent ; but from Fort- William to Kinioch-Leven, very injudici-
oufly planned, often carried far about, and often fo deep as to be fcarce furmountable j
whereas had the engineer followed the track ufed by the inhabitants, thofe incon-
venicncies would have been avoided.

Thefe roads, by rendering the Highlands acceirible, contributed much to their prefent
improvement, and wore owing to the indudry of our foldicry j they were begun in
17 ■ 3 *, under the direftions of General Wade, wlio, like another Hannibal, forced his
way through rocks fuppofed to have been unconquerable : many of them hang over
the mighty lakes of the country, and formerly ailorded no other road to the natives
than the paths of dicep or goats, where even the Hi^l.Iauder crawled with difliculty, and
kept himfelf from tumbling into the far-fubjacent water by cUnging to the plant's and
bulhes of the rock. Many of thel'e rocks were too lurd to yield to the pick-ax, and the

f liner was obliged to fubdue their obltinacy with gunpowder, and often in plac?s where
aturc had denied him footing, and where he was forced to begin his labours, fufpended
Hom above by ropes on the face of the horrible precipice. The bogs and moors had
likewife their diiliculties to overcome ; but all were at length condrained to yield to
the perfeverance of our troops.

• Vide p. too.

«04

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

In feme places, I obferved, that, after the manner of the Romans, they left engraven
on the rocks the names of the regiment each party belonged to, who were employed in
thefe works : nor were they lefs worthy of being immortalized than the vcxilhitio's oi"
the Roman legions ; for civilization was the coniequence of the labours of hotln

Thefe roads begin at Dunkeld, are carried on through the noted pafs of Kiliicrankie,
by Blair, to Dalnacardoch, Dalwhinie, and over the Coryarich, to Fort Auguftus. A
branch extends from thence eaftward to Invernefs, and another wcfUvard, over High-
bridge to Fort William. From the laft, by Kinloch-Leven, over ilio Black Mountain,
by the King's houfe, to Tyendrum ; and from thence, by Glen-drquie, to Invorar) ,
and fo along the beautiful boundaries of Loch-Lomond, to its extremity.

Another road begins near Grief, paffes by Aberfeldy, crofl'es the 'I'iiy at Tay-bridge,
and unites with the other road at Dalnacardoch; and ivom Dalwhiuie a branch palles
through Badenoch to Invernefs.

Thefe are the principal military roads : but there may be many others I may have
overlooked.

Rode through fome little vales, by the fide of a finall river; and from the appear-
ance of fertility, have fome relief from the dreary femes of the rell of the day. Reach

Tyendrum, a fmall village. The inn is feated the highefl of any houfe in Scotland.
The Tay runs eaft, and a few hundred yards further is a little lake, whofe waters run
weft. A lead-mine is worked here by a level to fome advantage ; was difcovered
about thirty years ago : the viens run S. W. and N. E.

September 5th, continue my tour on a very fine road on a fide of a narrow vale,
abounding with cattle, yet deftitute both of arable land and meadow ; but the beads
pick up a fuftenance from the grafs that fprings up among the heath. The country
opens on an approaching Glen-Urquie, a pretty valley, well cultivated, fertile in corn,
the fides adorned with numbers of pretty gro'-es, and the middle watered by the river
Urquie : the church is feated on a knoll, m a large ifle formed by the river : the manfe,
or minifter's houfe, is neat, and his little demefne is decorated in the mod advantageous
places with feats of turf, indicating the content and fatisfaftion of the poffeffor in the
lot Providence has given him.

In the church-yard arc feveral grave-ftones of great antiquity, with figures of a war-
rior, each furnilhed with a fpear, or two-handed fword : on fome are rcprefentaticns of
the chafe ; on others, elegant frct-w 01k ; and on one, faid to be part of the coffin of a
M'Gregor is a fine running pattern of foliage and flowers, and excepting the figures,
all in good tafte.

On an eminence on the fouth fide of this vale dwells M'Nabb, a fmith, whofe fnmily
have lived in that humble ftation finer the year 1440, being always of the fame pro-
fefllion. The firfi of the line was employei by the Lady of Sir Duncn Campbell, wlio
built the cadle of Kilchurn when her luilband was abfent. Some of their tombs are in
the church-yard of Glcn-l'rquie ; the oldeft lias a hanmier and other implements of
his trade cut on it. At this place I was favoured with feveral Highland provtrbs, in-
ferted in the Appendix. After breakfaft, at a good inn near the village, was there pr«-
fent at a chriftening, and became fponfor to a little Highlander, by no other ceremony
than receiving him for a moment into my arms : this is a mere aft of friendlhip, and no
clfential rite in the church of Scotland.

Purfue my journey, and have a fine view of the meanders of the river before its union
with Loch-Aw : in an ifle in the beginning of the lake is the calllc of Kilchurn, which
had been inhabited by the pr. fent Lord Breadalbane's grandfather. The great tower
ivas repaired by his lordlhip, and garrifoncd by hiin in 1745, for the fcrvice of the

1 1 Government,

ft engraven
mployed iu
xillatio's of
both,

Lillicrankie,
rjuftus. A
over High-
L Mountain,
3 Invorar) ,

ray-briclpje,
•anch pali'es

I may have

the appear-

ly. Reach

n Scotland.

waters run

difcovered

arrov vale,
t the beads
rhe country
tile in corn,
by the river
the manfe,
vantagcous
effor in the

es of a war-

entations of
e coffin of a
the figures,

'hofc family
fame pro-
pbcli, who
irnbs are in
liinentvS uf
ov( rbs, in-
s there pr«-
r ceremony
hip, and qo

re its union
lurn, which
reat tower
vice of the
jvfinnaent,

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

105

govcmmcnt, in order to prevent the rebels from making ufo of that great pafs crofs tlie
kingdom ; but is now a ruin, having lately been ftruckby lightning.

At a place called Hamilton's pafs, in an inftant burfl: on a view of the lake, which
makes a beautiful appearance ; is about a mile broad, and fhews at Icafl: ten miles of its
length. This water is prettily varied with ifles, fome fo fmall as merely to peep above
the furface ; yet eventhefe are tufted with trees : fome are large enough to afford hay
and pafturage; and in one, called Inch-hail, are the remains of a convent *. On
Fraoch-Elan t, the Hefperides of the Highlands, are the ruins of a caftle. The fair
Mego longed for the delicious fruit of the ifle, guarded by a dreadful ferpent : the hero
Fraoch goes to gather it, and is deflroyed by the monfter. This tale is fung in the
Erfc ballads, and is tranflated and pubiiflied in the manner of Fing<il.

1 he whole extent of I.och-Aw is thirty miles, bounded on the north by Lorn, a por-
tion of Argylelhire, a fertile country, prettily wooded near the water-fide. On the
N. E. are vaft mountains •, among them Cruachan J towers to a great height ; it rifes
from the lake, and its fides are Ihagged with woods impending over it. At its foot is
the difcharge of the waters of this loch into Loch-Etive, an arm of the fea, after a tur-
bulent courfe of a feries of catarafts for the fpace of three miles. At Bunaw, ne^r the
north end, is a large falmon-filhcry ; alfo a confiderable iron-foundery, which I fear will
foon devour the beautiful woods of the country.

Pafs by Scotftown, a fingle houfe. Dine at the little village of Cladifli. About two
miles hence, on an eminence in fight of the convent on Inch-hail, is a fpot, called
Croif-an-t-fleuchd, or the crofs of bowing, becaufe in Popilh times, it was always cuf-
tomary to kneel or make obeifance on firfi: fight of any confecrated place §.

Pafs between hills finely planted with feveral forts of trees, fuch as Weymouth pines,
&c. and after a picturefque ride, reach

Inverary j|, the caftle the principal feat of the Dukes of Argyle, chief of the Camp-
bells ; was built by Duke Archibald j is quadrangular with a round tower at each cor-
ner ; and in the middle rifes a fquare one glazed on every fide to give lio-ht to the ftair-
cafe and galleries, and has from without a molt dilagreeable efieft. In the attic ftory
are eighteen good bed-chambers : the ground floor was at this time in a manner un-
furnilhed, but will have feveral good apartments. The caftle is built of a coarfe lapis
ollaris, brought from the other fide of Loch-Fine, and is the fame kind with that found
in Norway, of which the King of Denmark's palace at Copenhagen is built. Near the
new caftle are fome remains of the old.

This place will in time be very magnificent : but at the prefent the fpace between
the front and the water is difgraced with the old town, compofed of the moft wretched
hovels that can be imagined. The founder of the caftle defigned to have built a new
town on the weft fide of the little bay the houfe ftands on : hefinifhed a few houfes a
cuftom-houfe, and an excellent inn: his death interrupted the completion cf the plan,
which, when brought to perfeQion, will give the place a very diilerent appearance to
what it now bears.

• The cotinf ry people are ftill fond of burying here. Infular mterments are faid to owe their origin to
the fear people had of having thtir friends' corpfes devoured by wolves on the main land.

t Thisilland was granted by Alexander III. in izfir. to Gillcriit M'Nachnn and hi» heirs forever, oa
condition tliey ihouW entertain the King whenever he paiTtd ihat way.

X Or the great lieap.

j Drudical ilones and temples are called Ciachan, churches h.iving often been built on fuch places; to
go to Clailinn is a coninion l'>fe phrafe fot going to church.

U In the Gallic, luncr-aora.

VOL. IU.

From

io6

pennant's tour in aCOTtANDt

From the top of the great rock Duniquaich is a fine view of the caftle, the lawn
fprinklcd with fine trees, the hills covered with extenfive plantations, a country fertile
in corn, bordering on the loch, and the loch itfelf covered with boats. The trees on
the lawn about the caftle are faid to have been planted by the Earl of Argyle : they
thrive greatly ; for I oblerved beech from nine to twelve feet and a half in girth, pines
nine, atui a lefler maple between feven and eight.

But the bufy fcene of the herring-fifhery gave no fmall improvement to the magnifi-
cent environs of Inverary. Kvery evening • fome hundreds of boats in a manner
covered the furface of Loch-Fme, an arm of the fea, which, from its narrownefs and
from the winding of its (hores, has all the beauties of a frefli water lake : on the week
days, the cheerful noifc of the bagpipe and dance echoes from on board ; on the fab-
bath, each boat approaches the land, and pfalmody and devotion divide the day ; for
the common people of the north are difpofed to be religious, having the example before
them of a gentry untainted by luxury and diflipation, and the advantage of being in-
ftrufted by a clergy, who are a6\ive in their duty, and who preferve refpeft, amidft all
the difadvantages of a narrow income.

The length of Loch-Fine, from the eaftern end to the point of Lamond, is above
thirty Scotch miles ; but its breadth fcarce two meafured : the depth from fixty to
feventy fathoms. It is noted for the vail (hoals of herrings that appear here in July and
continue till January. The higheft feafon is from September to Chriftmas, when near
fix hundred boats, with four men in each, are employed. A chain of nets is ufed (for
feveral are united) of an hundred fathoms in length. As the herrings fwim at very
uncertain depths, fo the nets are funk to the depth the flioal is found to take : the fuc-
cefs therefore depends much on the judgment or good fortune of the fiihers, in taking
their due depths; for it often happens that one boat will take multitudes, while the next
docs not catch a fingle fi(h, which makes the boatmen perpetually enquire of each other
about the depth of their nets. Thefe are kept up by buoys to a proper pitch ; the ropes
that run through them faftened with pegs, and by drawing up, or letting out the rope
(after taking out the pegs) they adjult their fituation, and then replace them. Some-
times the hill fwim in twenty fathom water, fometimes in fifty, and oftentimes even at
theisottom.

It is computed that each boat gets about 40I. in the feafon. The fifh are either
falted, and packed in barrels for exportation, or fold frefli to the country people, two
or three hundred horfcs being brought every day to the water-fide from very diftant
parts. A barrel holds 500 herrings, if they are of the beft kind : at a medium, 700 ;.
but if more, for fometimes a barrel will hold 1000, they are reckoned very poor. The
prclcnt price il. 4s. per barrel j but there is a drawback ot the duty on fait for thofe
that are exported.

The great rendezvoi:s of velTels for the fifliery ofi'the weftern ifles is at Cambeltown,
in Canty re, where they clear out on the 12th of September, and fometimes three hun-
dred bullis are feen there at a time : they mull return to their different ports by January
13th, where they ought to receive the premium of z\. 10s. per ton of herrings j but it
is faiil to he very ill paid, which is a great dilcouragcment to the lifliery.

'I he hcrrin,t;s of Loch Fine are as uncertain in their migiation as they are on the
coalt of Wales: ihc) had for numbers of years quitted that water j but appeared again
there within thefe dozen years. Such is the cafe with the lochs en all tlii.s wiftern coaft,
not but per pie defpair too often of finding them, from one or two unluccefsful trials in

>-?«

The CiOxcry it carried on in the niglit, the herrings being then in motion.

the

>, the lawn

itry fertile
le trees on
jyle: they
irth, pines

e magnifi-
a manner
>wners and
the week
}n the fab-
day ; for
pic before
being in-
, amidil: all

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

107

1, is above
n fixtyto
n July and
when near
s ufed (for
m at very

: the fuc-
, in taking
\e the next
each other

the ropes
It the rope
1. Some-
;es even at

are either
;ople, two
sry diftant
uni, 700 ;.
oor. The
: for thofe

nbeltown,
hrce hun-
•y January
gs i but it

ire on the
ired again
ern coaft,
il trials in

the

/■;■

he beginning of the feafon ; perhaps from not adjufling their nets to the depth the
fifli happen then to fwini in : but if each year a fmall velTel or two was fent to make a
thorough trial in every branch of the fea on this coaft, they would undoubtedly find
fhoals of fifh in one or other.

Tunnies *, called here mackrel-fture, are very frequently caught in the herring fea-
fon, which they follow to prey on. 1 hey are taken with a Itrong iron hook faftened to
a rope and baited with a herring ; as foon as hooked lofe ail fpirir, and are drawn up
without any refiftance : are very aftive when at hberty, and jump and frolic on the fur-
face of the water.

September 7. Croffed over an elegant bridge of three arches upon the Aray, in front
of the caflle, and kept riding along the fide of the loch for about feven miles : favv in
one place a flioal of herrings, clofe to the furface, perL<5Hy piled on one another, with a
flock of gulls bufied with this offered booty. After quitting the water-fide the road is
carried for a confiderable way through the bottoms of naked, deep and gloomy glens.
Afcend a very high pafs with a little loch on the top, and defcend into Glen-Crow, the
feat of melancholy, feldom cheered with the rays of the fun. Reach the end of Loch-
Long, another narrow arm of the fea, bounded by high hills, and after a long courfe
terminates in the Firth of Clyde.

Near this place fee a houfe, very pleafantly fituated, belonging to Colonel Campbell,
amidd plantations, with fome very fertile bottoms adjacent. On afcending a hill not
.half a mile farther, appears

Loch-Lomond. North Britain may well boafi: of its waters \ for fo fhort a ride as
thirty miles prefents the traveller with the view of four mofl magnificent pieces. Loch-
Aw, Loch-Fine, Loch-Long, and Loch-Lomond. Two indeed are of falt-water j but, by
their narrownefs, give the idea of frefh-water lakes. It is an idle obfervation of travel-
lers, that feeing one is the fame with feeing all of thefe fuperb waters j for almoft every
one I vifited has its proper charaders.

Loch-Leven is a broad expanfe, with ifles and cultivated fhores.

Loch-T ay makes three bold windings, has fteep but floping fliores, cultivated in
many parts, and bounded by vaft hills.

Loch-Rannoch is broad and ftrait, has more wildnefs about it, with a large natural
pine wood on its fouthem banks.

Loch-Tumel is narrow, confined by the floping fides of fteep hills, and has on its
weftem limits a flat, rich, wooded country, watered by a moft ferpentine ftream.

The Loch of Spinie is almoft on a flat, and its fides much indented.

Loch-Moy is fmall, and has foft features on its banks, amidft rude environs.

Loch-Nefs is ftrait and narrow : its ftiores abound with a wild mjignificence, lofty,
precipitous, and wooded, and has all the greatnefs of an Alpine lake.

Loch-Oich has lofty mountains at a fmall diftance from its borders ; the fhores in-
dented, and the water decorated with ifles.

Loch-Loch, wants the ifles j its fliores flope, and feveral ftraiths terminate on its
banks.

Loch-Aw is long and waving : its little ifles tufted with trees, and juft appearing
above the water, its two great feeds of water at each extremity, and its fmgular lateral
difcharge near one of them, fiifficiently mark this great lake.

Loch-Lomond, the laft, the moft beautiful of the Caledonian lakes. The firft view
of it from Tarbat prefents an extenfive ferpentine winding amidft lofty hills : on the

• Dr. Zool. III. No. 133.
r a

north

.•3 ■*•

io8

pennant's tour in ocoti-and.

north barren, black, and rocky, which darken with their (hade that contrafted part of
the water. Near this gloomy traft, beneath Craig Rollon, was the principal leat of
the M'Gregors, a murderous clan, infamous for excelVes of all kinds ; at length, for a
horrible mairacre of the Colquhouns*, or Cahouns, were profcribed, and hunted down
like wild bcails; their very name fuppreflTcd by aft of council! ; fo that the remnant,
now dilperfcd like Jews, clare not even iign it to any deed. Their pofterity arc ftill
■laid to be diftinguilheii among the cljns in which they have incorporated themfelvcs,
not only by the rednefs of their hair, but by their dill retaining the mifchievous difpofi-
tions of their anceftors.

On the weft: lide the mountains arc clothed near the bottoms with woods of oak quite
to the water edge ; their iummits lofty, naked and craggy.

On the cad fide the mountains are equally high, but the tops form a more even ridge
parallel to the I;ike, except where Ben-Lomond J, like Saul amidd his companion:',
overtops the reft. The ujiper parts were black and barren ; the lower had great marks
of fertility. Or at lead of indullry, for the yellow corn was finely contrafted with the
verdure of the groves intermixed with it.

This caftem boundary is part of the Grampian hills, which extend from hence
through the counties of Perth, Angus, Mearns, and Aberdeen. They take their name
from only a fingle hill, the Mons Grawipius of Tacitus, where Galcacus waited the ap-
proach of Agricola, and where the battle was fought io fatal to the brave Caledonians.
Antiquarians have not agreed upon the pariieular fpot ; but Mr. Gordon § places it
near Comrie, at the upper end of Strathcrn, at a place to this day called Galgachaii-
moor. But to return.

The road runs fometimes through woods, at others is expofed and naked ; in fome
fo deep as to require the fupport of a wall ; the whole work of the foldiery : bleffed
exchange of inftruments of deftrudion for thofe that give fafety to the traveller, and a
polifli to the once inacceflible native.

Two great headlands covered with trees feparatc the firft fccne from one totally dif-
ferent ; the lad is called the Point of Firkin. On palling this cape an expanfe of water
burfts at once on your eye, varied with all the fofter beauties of nature. Immediately
beneath is a flat covered with wood and corn : beyond, the headlands (Iretch far into
the water, and confifl of gentle rifings ; many have their furfaces covered with wood,
others adorned with trees loofely fcattered either over a fine verdure, or the purple
bloom of the heath. Numbers of illands are difperfed over the lake of the fame ele-
vated form as the little capes, and wooded in the fame manner ; others juft peep above
the furface, and are tufted with trees ; and numbers are fo difpofed as to form magni-
ficent viftas between.

Oppofite Lufs, at a fmall diftance from Ihore, is a, mountainous ifle ahuoft covered
with wood ; is near half a mile long, and has a mod fine effeQ. I could not count the

• Vide Appendix.

t 111 the ill of Charles I. c. 30. there was a ftrift aft agaliiH ihefe people coiifirmIi>(T all foim"r afts of
cou'.icil againft them, fuppreffing the name, and obliging them to make compearance yearly on tlie 24th of
July before the council after fixteen years uf age, to find icautioii, or otheiwayes ifihey be denounced for
thtir fail/.y, declaring tliem to be inltrcommuued, and that nunc refort or alF^l theiii ; and the adl con.
(litii'es fevernl i>i(\ices in that part againll tliein. In 1661, thit was refciiided, but revived again in the firll
pailiatuent of William and Mary, and tlie aft rccinbry annulled. Abridg. /^fts of Parliament, 45. 1 think
that the ad has been lately wholly repealed.

^ Its height is 3240 feet.

j Itin. Septent. 39. The rcafoni againft the opinion of this able antiquary will be given in the other
Tol'^wiei.

10 number

-1

•j-.'j')P.

FENMANT'a TOUR JN SCOTLAND.

109

; in feme

: blefll'd

er, and a

number of iflandp, but was told there are twenty-eight : the largeft two miles long, and
ftocked with deer.

The length of this charming lake is twenty-four Scotch miles ; its greateft breadth
eight; its greateft depth, which is between the point of I'irkin and Ben-Lomond, is a
hundred and twenty fathoms. Befides the fiih common to the lochs are guiniads, called
here poans.

At this time were living at the little village of Lufs the following perfons, moft
amazing inftances of cotemporary longevity ; and perhaps proofs of the uncommon
healthincfs of the place. Thele compofe the venerable lill :

Rev. Mr. James Robcrtfon, miniller, aged - - 90.
Mrs. Robertfon, his wife, - - - 86".

Anne Sharp, their fervant, - - - 94.

Niel Macnaughtan, kirk-oiTiccr, ... 86.
Chriftian Gay, his wife, - ... 94.

Walter Maclellan, ... 90.

The country from Lufs * to the fouthern extremity cf the lake continually improves ;
the mountains fink gradually into fmall hills ; the land is highly cultivated, well planted,
and well inhabiled. I was ilruck with rapture at a fight fo long new to me : it would
have been without alloy, had it not been dafhed with tho uncertainty whether the moun-
tain virtue hofpitality, would flourilh with equal vigour in the fofter fcenes, I was on
the point of entering on ; for in the Highlands every houfe gave welcome to the tra-
veller.

On the road fide near Lufs is a quarry of mod excellent flates ; and near the fide of
the lake, about a mile or two farther, is a great heap of ftones in memory of St. Mac.
Kefl'og, bifhop and confeffor, who fuffered martyrdom there A. D. 520, and was
buried in Comltraddan church.

The vale between the end of the lake and Dunbarton is unfpeakably beautiful, very
fertile, and finely watered by the great and rapid river Leven, thedifcharge of the lake,
which, after a (hort courfc, drops into the Firth of Clyde below Dunbarton : there is
fcarcely a fpot on its banks but what is decorated with bleacheries, plantations, and
villas. Notliing can equal the contrafl: in this day's journey, between the black barren
dreary glens of the morning ride, and the foft fcenes of the evening, iflands worthy of
the retreat of Armida, and which Rinaldo himfelf would have quitted with a figh.

Before I take my laft leave of the Highlands, it will be proper to obferve that every
entrance into them is ftrongly marked by nature.

On the fouth, the narrow and wooded glen near Dunkeld inftantly (hews the change
of country.

On the eaft, the craggy pafs of Bollitir gives a contradted admiffion into the Gram,
plan hilts.

On the north, the mountains near Loch-May appear very near, and form what is
properly ftyled the threfliold of t' e country ; and on the

Weft, the narrow read impending over Loch-Lomond forms a moft charafteriftic
entrance to this mountainous tradL

But the Erfe or Gallic language is not confined within thcfe limits ; for it is fpoken
on all fides beyond thefe mountains. On the eafiern coall it begins at Nairn ; on the
weftern extends over all the iflcs. It ceafes in the north of Caithncfs, the Orkneys,
and the Shetland iflands t ; but near Loch-Lomond, is heard at Lufs, at Buchanan,
eaft of the lake, and at Rofeneth, weft of it.

• A loltrable inn on the borders of the lake.

I In the Shetland iflcs are Hill lume remains of the Norfe, or old Norwegian language.

The

tio

PEKNANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

The traveller, who has Icifurc, Ihould ride to the eminence of Millegs, to fee the rich
prolpe-Sl between Loch-Lomond and the Clyde. One way is fecn part of the magnifi-
cent lake, IJen-Lomond and the vail mountains above Glcn-Crow. On the other hand
appears a line reach of the Clyde enlivened with iliippiiig, a view of the pretty feats of
Rofeneth and Ardincapcl, and the bufy towns of Port-Glafgovv and Greenock.

Crofs the ferry over the Lovcn at Bonne), and after a ride of three miles reach

Dunbarton, a fmall but good old town, feated on a plain near the conflux of the
Leven with the Finh of Clyde ; it confills principally of one large ftreet in form of a
crefcent. On oni: iide is the tolbooth, and at the fouth end the church vrith a fmall fpirc
fl:ecple ; it had bi.\n collegiate, was found.'d about 1450 by Ifabel Countcfs of Lenox
and Dutchefs of Albany, and was dedicated to St. Patrick, who was born in this county.
The waites of the town are bag-pipea, which go about at nine o'clock at night and five
in the morning.

Thecadle is feated a little fouth of the town on a two-headed rock ofaftupendous
height, rifmg in a ftrange manner out of the lands, an J totally detaclud from every thing
elfe ; is bounded on one fide by the Clyde, on the other by the Leven. On one of the
fumniits are the remains of an old light-houle, which fome lup|Hife to have been a Roman
pharos; on the other, the powder magazine : in th.> hollow between is a large well of
water fourteen feet deep. The fides of the rocks are imm( nfe precipices, and often
hang-over, except on the fide where the governor's houfe Hands, which is defend-
ed by walls and a few cannon, and garrifoncd by ? few invalids. It feems to have been
often ufed as a flate prifon : the Regent Morton was fecured there previous to his trial.
From its natural ftrength, it was in former times deemed impregnable ; fo that the
defperate but fuccefsful fcalado of it in 1571* may vie with the greateft attempts of
that kind, with the capture of the Numidian fortrefs, in the Jugurthine war, by Marius ;
of the more horrible furprife of Fel'camp f, by the gallant Bois-rofc.

The Britons in very early times made this rock i'a fortrefs ; for it was ufual with
them after the departure of the Romans to retreat to the tops of craggy inacceflible
mountains, to forefts, and to rocks on the fliores of the fea : but Boethius makes the
Scots polfefled of it fome ages prior to that, and pretends that it refilled all the eftbrts of
Agricola, who laid fiege to it. It certainly may claim a right to great antiquity, for
Bede declares it to have been the beft fortified city the Britons had during his days. Its
ancient name was Alcluid, or Arcluid,or the place on the Cluid. But in after-times it
acquired the name of Dun Britton, being the laft place in thefe parts held by the Bri-
tons againft the ufurping Saxons. In 756, reduced by famine, it was furrendered to
Edbert King of Northumberland.

JVom the fummit of this rock is a fine view of the country, of the town of Dunbarton,
the river Leven, the Frith of Clyde (the Glota of Tacitus) here a mile broad, and of the
towns of Greenock and Port-Giafgow, on the oppofite (hore. The bufincfs of this
country is the fpinning of thread, which is very confiderable. There is alfo a great fal-
mon tilhery : but in this populous country, fo great is the demand for them that none
' can be fpared lor curing. Gilfes come up the river in June, and continue in plenty
about twenty days ; and many falmon trout are taken from March to July. Phinocs,
called hire yellow fins, come in July, and continue about the fame fpacc of time as the
gilfes: the lifhermen call them the young of fome great fea trout. During May,
parrs appear in fuch numbers in the Leven, that the water feems quite animated with
them. There are befides in that river, perch and a few poans J.

♦ Robertfoii'a Hift. J'cotlind, n. «vo. Gullirk's, V L 131. t Sully'!. Memoirs, Vol. I. Book V[,

J At Uuiibarton 1 wa? iiilurmcd by prrfoin «>» credit, lliat fwallows linve often been taken in midwinter,
in ii torpid Hate, uut of tl.C ticcple »f the vhurcb, Rud alio out uf a iaad-biuk over tic livcr Eiidricli, mar
' Loih-LomoMl.

Sept.

rBNNAKT's TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Ill

foe the rich
the niagnifi.
; other hand
retty feats of
lock.
each

nflux of the
in form of a
a fmall fpirc
els of Lenox
this county,
ight and five

1 (lupendous
1 every thing
n one of the
'I'll a Roman
urge well of
:, and often
1 is defend -
to have been
s to his trial,
fo that the
attempts of
, by Marius j

is ufual with
Inacceflible
IS makes the
he efforts of
titiquity, for
is days. Its
after-times it
by the Bri-
•rendered to

Dunbarton,
1, and of the
Incfs of this
I a greiit fal-
in that none
lie in plenty
. Phinocs,
r time as the
'uring May,
imated with

1. 1. Book vr,

I in miilvvfntiT,
Eiiiliicli, mar

'■m

the banks of the Clyde, which

•h-^J '

Sept. 8. Pafs by the ruins of Dunglas • caftle, near i
meanders finely along a rich plain full of barley and
hedges, a rarity in North Britain. At a diflance are f(

wooils and villas belonging to the citizens of Glafgow. Crofs the water of Kelvin at
the village of Partic, and loon after reach

Glafgow. — The bell built of any modern fccond-ratc city I ever faw : the houfcs of
(lone, and in a good tafle. 'I'he principal ftrcet runs ea(t and well, and is near a mile
and a half long, but unfortunately is not llrait. 'I'ho tolbooth is large and handfome.
Next to thatisthe exchange; within is a fpacious room with full length portraits of
ail our monarchs fince James I. ; and an excellent one, by Ramfay, of Archibald Duke
of Argyle, in a judge's robe. Before the exchange is a large equeftrlan flatue of King
William. This is the broadeft and fincft part of the ftreet ; many of the houfes are
built over piazzas, but too narrow to be of much fervice to walkers. Numbers of
other (Ircets crofs this at right angles, and are in general well built.

The market-places are great ornaments to this city, the fronts being done in a very,
fine tafte, and the gates adorned with columns of one or other of the orders. Some
of thefe markets arc for meal, greens, fifii, or flefli. There are two for the lafl: which
have conduits out of feveral of the pillars, fo that they are conftantly kept fwect
and clean.

Near the meal market is a public granary, to be filled on any apprehenfion of
fcarcenefs.

The guard-houfe is in the great flreet, which is kept by the inhabitants, who re-
gularly do duty. An excellent police is obferved here, and proper officers attend the-
markets to prevent any abufes.

The old bridge over the Clyde confifts of eight arches, and was built 400 years ago
by bifliop Rea ; another is now built. 1 he tide flows three miles higher up the
country, but at low water is fordable. There is a plan for deepening the channel, for
at prefent the tide brings up only very fmall veflels ; and the ports belonging to this
city lie feveral miles lower, at Port Glafgow and Greenock, on the fide of the Firth.

Near the bridge is a large alms-houfe, a vafl nailery, a ftone-ware manufadure, and a
great porter brewery, which fupplies fome part of Ireland. Within fight, on the fouth
fide are collieries, and much coal is exported into the laft mentbned illand, and into
America.

The great imports of this city are tobacco and fugar : of the former, above 40,000
hogfheads have been annually imported, and moft part of it again exported into France
and other countries. The manufactures here are linens, cambricks f, lawns, tapes,
fuflians, and ftriped linens ; fo that it already begins to rival Manchefter, and has, in
point of conveniency of its ports, in rcfpeft to America, a great advantage over it.

1 he college is a large building, with a handfome front to the flreet, refembling fome
of the old colleges in Oxford. Charles I. fubfcribed 200I. towards this work, but was
prevented by the troubles from paying it j but Cromwell afterwards fulfilled the de-
fign of the royal donor. It was founded in 1450 by James IL Pope Nicholas V. gave
the bull, but Bifhop TurnDull fupplied the money. There are about 400 fludents be-
longing to the college, who lodge in the town ; but the profeffors have good houfes in
the college. Young gentlemen of fortune have private tutors, who have an eye to
their condud ; the relt live entirely at their own difcretion.

* A Britith word ; Diin glas, or the grey-hill.

t The greatcll cambritk raanufafture it now at Paifley, a few mile* from this city.

The

Sept.

1 12

ri:KNANT*3 TOUR IN SCOTtANU.

'I'ho library ib a very handfomi? room, witli a qallt-ry round it. liipportcJ l)y pillara,
Tlint bonofici.iit nobleman the lirll Dukcof Chandos, when he vifitcd ihc college, gave
5;ol. towarJs buiklinjj tlii.i nparfmriit.

McflVr. Robert anJ Amlifw I'oulis, printers and bookfellers to the univerfity, have
inditutcd .m ac.ilcniy lor p:iinting and engraving ; and, like good citizens, zealous to
proir.ote tlie wcllare and Iionoiir of their native place, have at a vad expenco formed a
moll numerouo collcdiun of painiings from abroad, in order to furm the talle of their
clcvrs.

The priiKing is a very confidoraMe branch of biinnefs, and has long been celebrated
f'-tr the beamy ot the typ-.^s and the corrednel's of the editions. Ilerj arc prefcrveil
in cafes numbers of monumontal and other (tones*, taken out of the walls on the Ro-
ir.an flations in this part of the kingdom ; fome are well cut and ornamented ; mod
cf them were done to perpetuate the memory of the rcsilUitio, or party who performed
fuch or fuch works ; others in memory of otTicers v. ho died in the country.

'J'he cathedral is a large pile, now divided into two churches. Beneath, and deep
underground, is another, in which is alfo divine fervice, where the congn<gation may
truly lay, cLviutvi c pvofur.dn : the roof is line, made of Hone and fupported by pillars,
but the beauty much hurt by the crowding of the pews. Near this is the ruin of the
calllc, or bifliop's palace.

The new church is a very handfome building with a large elegant porch, but the
outfide is nnich tiistigurcd by a llender fquare tower ; and, in general, the fteeples of
North Britain are in a rt niai kable bad talte, being, in fact, no favourite part of archi-
tci^hire with the churih of Scotland. The infide of that juft fpoken of is moft neatly
fmiflicd, fupported by pillars, and very prettily ftuccoed : it is one of the very few
exceptions to the ilovcnly and indecent manner in which Prt'fl)ytery keeps the houfes
of God ; reformation in manners of religion feldom obfervcs mediocrity, here it was
outrageous; lor a place of worfliip commonly neat was deemed to favour of Popery ;
but, to avoid the im))utation of that extreme, they run into another; for in many
parts of Scotland our Lord fecms ftill to be worlhipped in a Itable, and often in a
very wretched one. Many of the churches are thatched with heath, and in fome places
arc in fuch had repair as to be half open at top ; fo that the people appear to worlhip,
as the DruiJs did of old, in open temples.

Sipt. lo. Went to fee Hamilton Iloul'e, twelve miles diflant from Glafgow : ride
through a rich and beautiful corn countrv, adorned with fmall woods, gentlemen's
feats, and well wittered. Hereabout 1 law the lirll muddy llream fince I had left Edin-
burgh ; for the Highland rivers running gcnerall) through a bed of rock or pure
gravel, receive no other taint, in the greatelt floods, than the brown cry ftalline tinge of
the moors, out of which they rife.

See on the wed, at a little ilillance from the rond, the ruins of Bothwell cadle, and
the bridge, remarkable for the Duke of M<Mimouth's vidory over the rebels in 1679.
'1 he clnncli was colKgiate, fninded by Areiiilald Earl of Douglas, 1398, and is, as I
heard t, oddlv incrulled with a thin coat of done.

Hamilton Houre, or Palace, as it is called here, is featcd at the end of a fmall town ; is
a large ilifagretable jiiie of building, v ith two deep wings at right angks with the centre.
The gallery is of great extent, and iurnidied (as well as fome other rooms) with mod
•cxctllent paintings : that of Daniel in ihe lion's den, by Rubens, is a great performance.

• .Several li;ivc hern enjjravcn l)y the aitifts of tlic ncacii-my. The provcift of the iinivrTfity did mc the
hcnoiu of prclLHting me with a ftt. f BiHiup Pocock'e Maiuifcript Jouriiul.

Ihe

yB>*N ant's tour in sootlano.

««3

1 l)y pillarj.
allege, gave

erfify, havt*
, zoaluus to
:o formed a
die of their

1 Cflcbrated
c prefcrvctl
on the Ro-
uted ; mofl
) peiforincd

h, and deep

•gatlon may

I by pillars,

ruin of the

ch, but the
e fteeples of
art of archi<
nioft neatly
lie very few
IS tlie houfes
here it was
of Popery j
or in many
d often in a
fome places
to worlhip,

ifgow : ride

entlemen's

d left Ldin-

k or pure

ine tinge of

caflle, and
•Is in 1679.
and is, as I

all town ; is

the centre.

) with moft

srformance.

ty ilid me the

Ihe

The fear and <Ievot{on of the prophet is finely expretfed by his uplifted hce and eyes,
his clafped hands, his fwelling mufcles, and the violent extenfion of one foot ; a lion
looks fiercely at him with open mouth, and feems only rcflrained by the Almighty
power from making him fall a vi6lim to his hunger ; and the fignal deliverance of Daniel
is more fully marked by the number of human bones fcattered over the floor, as if to
fhew the indant fate of others, in whofe favour the Deity did not interfere.

The marriage-feall, by Paul Veronefe, is a fine piece ; and the obllinacy and re-
finance of the intruder, who came without the wedding-garment, is (Irongly exprelfed.

The treaty of peace between England and Spain in the reign of James 1. by Juan de
Pantoxa, is a good hidorical pirture. There are fix envoys on the part of the Spaniards,
and five on that of the F.ngliih, with their names infcribed over each ; the Englilh
are the Earls of Dorlet, Nottingham, Devonfhire, Northampton, and Robert Cecil.

Earls of Lauderdale and Lanerk fettling the covenant, both in black, with faces- full
of puritanical Iblemnity.

Several of the Dukes of Hamilton. Jamet Duke of Hamilton, with a blue ribband
and white rod. His fun, beheaded in 1 649. His brother, killed at the battle of Wor«
ceder. Tlie Duke who fell in the duel with Lord Mohun.

Fielding, Earl of Denbigh *, his hair grey, a gun in his hand, and attended by an
Indian boy. It feems perfedUy to Aart from the canvas, and the aflion of his counte-
nance looking up has matchlefs fpirit. He commanded the fleet in two expeditions
for the relief of Rochelle. In the laft, which was in 1618, he found an inferior fleet
of the French king's lying before the harbour. Thefe he promifed the befieged to
dellroy as foon as a high tide and fit wind concurred. Both happened ; but, inftead
of attacking the enemy, he made an inglorious retreat, and was purfued by a few
French (hips even to oar own coafts. Yet, on the breaking out of the civil war, he
behaved on land like a (lout and gallant foldier ; and died fighting valiantly in the
royal caufe in April 1643, in a fkirmiflv nor far from Birmingham. It is remarkable,
that in the battle of Edge-hill, his fon, efpoufing the codtrary fide, aded in the wing
in which his father was polled.

His daughter married James Marquis (afterwards Duke) of Hamilton. Both their
portraits are in this palace.

Old Duke of Chatelherault, with an order about his neck.

Two half lengths in black ; one with a fiddle in his hand, the other in a grotefque
attitude ; both with the fame countenances, good, but fwarthy, miftakenly called Da-
vid Rizzo's ; but I could not learn that there was any portrait of that unfortunate man.

Maria Dei gratia Scotorum Regina^ 1586. vf/. 4^. a half length; a ftiff fjgure, in
a great ruff, auburn hair, oval but pretty full face, of much larger and plainer features
than that at caftle Braan, a natural alteration from the increafe of her cruel ufage, and
of her ill health ; yet dill with a refemblance to that portrait. It was told me here,
that (he fent this pi£lure, together with a ring, to the Duke of Hamilton, a little before
her execution.

A head, faid to be Anna Bullen, very handfome, drefled in a ruff and kerchief
edged with ermine, and in a purple gown ; over her face a veil, fo tranfparent as not
to conceal

The bloom of young defirc and purple light of love.

• The perfon who (hewed the houfe called him governor of Jamaica ; but that mtift be a mlftake. If
any errors appear in my account of any of the piftures, I flatter myfelf it may beexciifed ; for fometimii
they were (hewn by fervanti ; fometimei the owners of the houfc were fo wbiiging us to attend me, whon
1 could not trouble with a number of qucdioni.

vol,. UK Q Earl

I'RNMANT'i tour m «COTLAKt)»

iTarl Morion, Regent of ScOtlanil. -ifnJi „• *fx^",^rvy M? V> nu*--**^ ?'i« »ff^ '►•*

'I'lic riuiiiU rL-loriiiLT Jnhn Knox,

i' ,,:h:f, '. |>«H'f ■ I '..4

Lord lielliavt'ii, author of the f,.i\inus fpeccli np;a!n(> the Unloif,' ' ' ' ' "*' ' ''

riiilip 11. at lull L-nptli, with a (haiigc ri;^urc of Fame bowing at his fpet, \\ifh n
l.ilirl and lliis motto, frn nit/rnfr ndjlo.

Al)oiit a inilo Irom iht; hnitlip, on ati •minence, above a ilocp wcvU-d frltjii, with the
Avon at its bottom, is Chatclhi-t^'.'ilt ; To calli-d from the idnte tl.v' ran\iiy onco pof-
iVlU'd in I'rani-o, is an cUvant banqiR-ting houfe, with a dog kennel, gardeiiB, ^c. and
er^ninands a line viow ot ili? country. 'I'he park is now much iijelofrd ; but t ant
told, that there arc dill in it a few ot tho bned of tlio wild cattle, which nocthius^
fays were peculiar to tlu- (.'aledoniwu forelk, were of a fnowy whitencis, and had manes
like lions ; they wore at this time in a diltant part of the park, and 1 loft fight of them.

Returned to Glafgow.

Sept. 1 1. CrolVed the country towards Sterling. PafTed through the village of S,)'
fith, noted for a victory gained by Montrofe over the Covenanters. Throuph . t og,
where' numbers n( the fugitives pcrilhed, is now cutting part of the raiud thit is '■ : jot i
the firths of Forth and CIvde. Saw the fpot where the batfJe of Panne. '>\;rne was
fought, in which the F.ngliih under Edward II. had a fliamcful d;:feat. F. u J was fo
alfurcd of conquefl, that he brought with him William Baflon, a Carmelite, and fa-
mous poet, to celebrate his victory ; but the monari h was defeated, and tho poor bard
taken and forced by the conqueror, invita Mi/iervd, to fing h' ; fucccfs, which he did
in fuch lines as thcfe :

Hie capitf hie rapitt hie tcrit, hie fir it ^ eeee dokres /
Vox to fiat ; as/onat ; hie ruit ; hie luit ; arflo modo res.
1 lie ft cat ; hie meat ; hie doeet ; hie meet ; illcfugatur:
Hie lately hie patet ; hie prcmit, hie gemit ; hie fupcratur.

At this place that unfortumtc monarch Ji»mes III. was defeated by his rebellious
fubjeds J in his flight fell dov i from his horfe, and, bruifed by his fall, was drawn into
a neighbouring rn II, and for n aftir aflaflinated by a prieft called in to receive his con-
fcilion, and alford him fpiritual afiiflance.

Went through the fmall town of St. Ninian f, a mile fouth of Sterling. The church
had been the powder-magazine of the Rebels ; who, on their return, blew it up in
fuch haft«, as to dertroy foine of their own people, and about fifteen innocent fpec-
tators.

Sterling and its caflle, in refpcft of fituation, is a miniature of Edinburgh ; is placed
on a ridged hill or rock, rifing out of a plain, having the caflle at the upper end on a
high precipitous r(Kk. Within its walls was the palace of feveral of the Scotch kings,
a fquare building, ornamented on three fides with piU -rs r'-^ing on grotefquc figures
pro), ding from the wall, and on the top of each piliur is . tlrf.ac, feemingly ihe work
uf fancy. Near it is the old pui lamcnl houfe, a va'' ir,<j; • '.eet Ion ,ery high,

with a tiinbertd roof, and formerly had a gallery itin-.j^ ijjud the inlide. Below
the caflle are the ruins of the palace belonging to the Earls of Mar, vvhofe family had
once the keeping of this furtrefs. There arc Hill the Erfkine arms, and much orna-

' Gipnfrc fiiltt en filva bovfs candidrflimoi in formam leonis jubam habcntcs, cetera manfiietii fiinillU
rt!0» ■. '' I'dto ftros," &c. Dilcr. i<f giii Scotix, fol. xl.

f f),f !'<-' <if t!ir I'u'tt, fon of a-piince of the Cumbrian firitaiiit, convening the PiAs a* far ai the

mental

Uf.

y.v.i

."i fl

•■■ i\

ii y

, k

•

■'., »

I'.i:

)•;•

iU .

.•)!.

, > • :

-/r

i-'. •«

% '"

i.U ,

-'. i

M ■

J •
k
V

'11. ;

i^V

UNNANT's tour IM SCOTLAND.

ftj

net, with R

mental i.arving on parts of it. The town of Sterling Is inclofcd wiili a wall ; the
Uretiu aio irrcRulur and narrow, except that which leads / the caftlc. Here, and at
the villaj-^e of llaiinocburnc, is a confiderable manufa^Ku • of coiirlc carpets.

From 1 ''^p of the c A\c is by far the fineU view in Scoilaui: To the eaft is a vnfl
plain ritl) in coi n, adorned w itii woods, and watonil \* th the river Forth, whofe mean-
ders ai> before it i ,v hcs the fea, fo fraqornt aiul To large, as lo farm a multitude of
mod bcnuuful pcninfulas; f'nr, in many parts, the winjings approx\n>atc fo dole as to
leave only a little illlunus of :\ few yai's. In this pl;ii!\ is an old ;tbby, a view of Alloa,
Clackmannan, Fai .^irk, the Fiith ol Foi h, and the country as far a 1 liinburgh. On
the north, the Ocliil hills, and the moor where the battle of Du ' xu was fought.
To the wtfl, the ftr^iith of Mi-ntcith, as fertile as ihc eallern plain, .u: 'enninatod by
the Highland mountains, amon>; which tho finimit ot Ben-Lomond iiw conipicuous.

The Sylva Caledonia, or Caledonian forcit, begun a little north of , iling, and
palling through MeiWeith and Htrathern, extended, according to Boethiu as far as
Athol on one fide, and Lochabar on the other. It is very (lightly nentioi 1 by the
aulicnts • ; but the fuppofcd extent is given by the Scotlilh hiitorian.

l,ie at Falkirk, a brge ill-built town, liipported by the grent fain -r blac k cattle
from the Highlands, it being computed tiiat 2.<,,ooo head are an ually f* here. There
is alio a great deal of money got here by the carriage of gi jtls, laiu d at irron
wharf, to Glafgow. Such is the incrcafe )f trade in this country, that .ibf ut i eniy
years ago not three carts could be found i i the town, and at preL-nt thti above a

nundred that are fupported by their interc urfe with Glafgow.

In the church-yard, on a plain Hone, is 'he following epitaph on Johi Graham,
ftylfd the right hand of the gallant Wallas , killed at the battle of Kalkirkj* igS I i

Here lies Sir John tlie Graitic !u'tli wi^tit and wife,
A»e of the chief refktwit Sco! nd thrife. '

y\ne better knijflu not to th« \ t1(J was lent , . '

I Nor was jjniie Grame of truttli, and of liardiment.

Meiitc mni.iiqiie potens, it Vnllx fidiis Atliafei
C(iiulii«ir hie Orainus bcllo . itert'cilus ab Aiiglia.
:•■■', 22 Julii. 129S.

Near this is another epitaph, occafioncd by ;. fecond battle of Falkirk, asdi, race-
ful to the Englifli as the other was fatal to th Scots: the firfl was a well dj -uted
combat ; the lall, a panic on both fides, for p_rt of each army flew, the one '•'^,
the other eall, each carrying the news of their few -al defeats, while the total deftrm 1 1
of our forces was prevented by the gallant beh;. iour of a brigadier, v. ho with two
regiments faced fuch of the rebels as kept the fi Id, and prevented any further ad-
vantages. Tlio epitaph I allude to is in raemor) of Sii Robert Monro |, the worthy chief-

... ■ t^ii^'

• By Pliny, lib iv. c i6. and "Tiinitniiia, in his I'.incfrv- - on Conftanriiis, c. 7.

t luught Utween I'alkitk and Cairou works, at a place .lied to this day Graham's Moor.

X Cunditur lieic quod poler mori

RoRERTi Monro de Fdiiiia, liq Bar,

Gentis fui Principia

Militiim Tribuiii.

Viti in caftris ciiriaque Britacnlca

Honefte produdta

Pro Liberfate rtligione Patfi'-T » ,.

Ill acie honertinin-e dcfimiSa

Propc Falkirk Jan. xviii, 1746. jl?t. 6».

Viriiitis confdiique fama

-i!6

peknant's tour in 8C0TLANT>.

tain of that loyal clan, a family which loft three brothers the fame year in f'jpport of
the royal caufe. Sir Robert being greatly wounded in the battle was niu. Jered in
tool blood by the rebels, with his brother Dr. Monro, who, with fraternal piety, was
at that time drefling his wounds ; the third was aflbflinated by midake for one wiio
well deferved his death for fpontaneous barbarities on Highlanders approaching ac-
cording to proclamation to furrender their arms.

1 have very often mentioned fields of battle in this part of the kingdom ; fcarce a
fpot has efcaped unftained with gore j for, had they no public enemy to contend with,
the Scots, like the Welfli of old, turned their arms againft each other.

Carron iron-works lie about a mile from Falkirk, and are the greateft of the kind
in Europe : they were founded about eight years ago, before which there was not a
fmgle houfe, and the country a mere moor. At prefent, the buildings of atl forts are
of vafl extent, and about twelve hundred men are employed. The iron is fmelted
from the (lone, then caft into cannon, pots, and all forts of utenfils made in foun-
deries. This work has been of great fervice to the country, by teaching the people
induftry and a method of fctting about any fort of labour, which, before, the common
people had fcarce any notion of.

Carron wharf lies on the Forth, and is not only ufeful to the works, but of great
fen'ice even to Glafgow, as confiderable quantities of goods deftined for that city are
landed there. The canal likewife begins in this neighbourhood, which, when effedled,
will prove another bi-nefit to thefe works.

At a fmall dillanc : from the founderies, on a little rifing above the river Carroif,
ilood that celebrated antiquity called Arthur's Oven, which the ingenious Mr. Gor-
don * fuppofes to have been a facellum, or little chapel, a repofitory for the Roman
infignia, or ftandards j but, to the mortification of every curious traveller, this match-
lefs edifice is now no more ; its barbarous owner, a Gothic knight, caufed it to be de-
molilhed, in order to make a mill-dam with the materials, which, within lefs than a
year, the Naides, in refentment of the facrilegc, came down in a flood, and entirely
Jwept away.

Sept. 1 2. Saw near Callandar-Houfe fome part of Aatoninus's Wall, or, as it is
called here, Graham's Dyke +. The vallum and the ditch are here very evident,
and both are of great fize, the laft being forty feet broad, and thirteen deep : it ex-
tended from the Firth of Forth to that of Clyde, and was defended at proper diftances
by forts and watch towers, the work of the Roman legions under the command of
LoUius Urbicus, in the reign of Antoninus Pius. According to Mr. Gordon, it began

In Montanorum cohorti* I'rsfr^ura

Qtianidiii przliiim Fontonjti'M mcmurabitur

Perduratura ;

Ob amicitiain et fidrm amicis

Hiimanitatem clcmrntiamqiie adveif.iriis

Bcnevolcntiam bonitatrmqut: omnibus,

Trucidantibui rtiam,

In perpetuum dcTnleranda.

DuNCANi'S Monao de Obfalde, M D. Al». 59.

Fiatcr Fratrem linqucre fiigiens,

Sauciatn curant. i{\a» inrrmis
Commoiicns cohuneftai Urnain.
• Itin. Strplfntr p. ^4. tab. i».

f So called from Or.iVarn, who ii faid to have firfl made « breach in this wall foon after tlie rei
of the Romani out uf Urituin. Vide Boctbiui, cxxxi.

rcat

PJvNNANT's tour in SCOTLAND,

117

fijpport of
1. Jered in
piety, was
r one wlio
ching ac-

; fcarce a
:end \«ith,

the kind
was not a
[1 forts are
is fmelted
s in foun«
the people
I common

: of great
It city are
n eifeaed,

T Carrorf,
Mr. Gor-
le Roman
his match*
to be de-
efs than a
entirely

as It IS

evident,

it ex-

diflances

mand of

it began

at old Kirk Patrick on the Firth of Clyde, and ended two miles wcfl of Abercorn, oti
the Firth of Forth, bein;^ m length 36 miles, 887 paces.

Pafled through Biirrowfloncls, a town on the Firtli, enveloped in finoke from the
great falt-pans and vaft collieries near it. The townhouleis built in form of a caille.
There is a good quay, much Irequented by fliipping ; for confiderable quantities of
coal are fent from hence to London ; and there arc bcfidcs fome Greenland (hips *
belonging to the town.

Ride near Abercorn, called by Bede the monaftcry cf Abercurnig; of which no
mention is made in the accounts of the Scotch religious houfes, nor has there been for
many centuries the lead, remains ; for Buchanan fays, that none of any kind were to
be met with even in his time, except the ruins of a tower belonging to the Douglafes.

Reach Hopeton-Houfe, the feat of the Earl of Hopetoun ; a houfe begun by Sir
William Bruce, and finifhed by Mr. Adams, is the handfomert I faw in North Britain ;.
the front is enriched with pilafters, the wings at fome didance joined to it by a beauti-
ful colonade ; one wing is the ftables, the other the library. In the laft is a fingle
piece of lead ore weighing five tons, got out of his Lordfliip's mines at the Lead-
hills.

The great improvements round the houfe are very cxtenfive, but the gardens are
fiill in the old tafte ; trees and fhrubs fucceed here greatly, among others were two
Portugal laurels thirty feet high. Nothing can equal the grandeur of the approach to
to the houfe, or the profpeft from it. The fituation is bold, on an eminence, corn-
minding a view of the Firth of Forth, bounded on the north by the county of Fife ;
the middle is chequered with iflands, fuch as Garvey, Inch Keith t> and others ; and on
the fouth-eaft is a vaft command of Eaft Lothian, and the terminating objeft, the great
conic hill of North Berwick.

The whole ride from Sterling to Queen's Ferry (near Hopeton-Houfe) is not to be
paralleled for the elegance and variety of its profpefls ; the whole is a compofition of
all that is great and beautiful : towns, villages, feats, and antient towers decorate each
bank of that fine expanfe of water the Firth ; while the bufy fcenes of commerce and
rural economy are no fmall addition to the ftill life. The lofty mounains of the High-
lands form a didant but auguft boundary towards the north-weft, and the eaftern view
is enlivened with fliips perpetually appealing or vanifhing amidft the numerous ifles.

Pafs by Queen's-Ferry ; fall into the Edinburgh road, and fini/h this evening in that
capital, a mod agreeable and profperous tour. It was impoHible not to recal the idea
of what I had feen ; to imagine the former condition of tlais part of the kingdom, and
to compare it with the prefent (late, and, by a fort of fecond-fighf, make a probable
conjefture of the happy appearance it will afl'ume in a very few years. Nor could I
forbear repeating the prophetic lines J of Aaron Kill, who feemed fcized with a like
j"everie.

!ic retrnt
at

* Thi« year the whale fifhery licgnn to revive ; which f<n a few years pad had been fo iinfiiccccfsful,
iliat fcvcral of the adventurers had thoughts of difpofing of their Ihips. Perhaps tlie whales had till this
year deferted thofe feas ; for Marten, p. jSj of his voyage to vSpii/berpen, remark', «« That thcfe animals,
tithcr weary of their place, or fcnfiblt; of their own danger, do often change their harbours "

f This ifle fs oppofite to Leith. By order of council, in 1497, all venereal patients in the neighbour.
bo<)J were tranfported thtre, ne quid detr'menli res pubiica fiprrd. It is reraarkable, that this difordcr,
which was thougiu to have appeared in Europe only four years before, ihoviUl make fo quick- a prngrel?.
The horror of a difeafe, for which there was then fuppofed to be no cure, muft have occafioncd this atten-
lion to Hop the contagion ; for even half a century after, one of the (iril moiiarchs of Europe, 1 rancis I.
fell a viftim to it. The order is fo curious, vhat we have given it a place in the Appendix.

\ Wriiten on a window in Noilh Britain,

Orcf

Il8 pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

< . ,' '" • . Once nrion-, O North ! I view tliy winding (hores,

Cliirb lliy Mciik hill:* and i;iofs thy ilull<y moors.
Impartial view thee with an heedful eye,
Yt-t ilill by nature, not by cenfiire try.
'•' ' • Enjrland thy filler is a gay coquet.

Whom art cnlivcrid, and ttniptations whet ;
J , i ; Rich, proud, and wanton, (lie licr beauty knows,

And in a confcious warmth of benuty rIows :
.'^'cetlanJ coined after, like ;iii uniipc fair,
' '• Wlio (Igh'j with anirnifli at her filler's air ; '

• Unconftious, thai ihc'll quickly hive her day,

J And be the toall when Albion's charms decay.

Sept. 18. y\fter a fow days experience of the fame hofpitality in Edinburgh that I
had met wiili in the Highland.-;, I continued uiy journey fouth, through a rich cora
roiijitry, leaving the i .inland hills to the wefV, whofe fides were covered with a fine
turf, jjefore I reached Crook, a fmall village, the country grew worfe ; after this, it
alTumed a Highland appearance, th.' hills were high, the vales narrow, and there was
ht fides a great fcarcitv (if trees, and hardly any corn ; inllead, was abundance of good
paftm-age for flieep, there being great ninnbers in thefe parts, which I'uppiy the north
cf England. The roads are bad, narrow, and often on the edges of precipices, im-
pending over the river Tweed, here an inconfiderable ftream. Reach

Moflat, a fmall neat town, famous for i4s fpawsj one faid to be ufeful in fcrophu-
lous cafes, the other a chalybeate, which makes this place much refortcd to in funimer.
Podor Walker, minirtcr of the place, fiiewed mc in manufcript liis natural hiilory of
the Weftcrn Ifles, which will do him much credit whenever he favours the world
with it.

Here the unfortunate no')lenian Lord Vifcount Kenmurc fet up the Pretender's
/landard on the i2thofOdober 1715, in fatal compliance with the importunities of
the difaifefted Lowlanders.

. The country between Rloffat and Lockerby is very good, a mixture of downs and
corn-land, with a few fmaH woods ; the country grows quite flat and very unpleafant ;
but inceflfanl rains throughout my journey from Edinburgh, rendered this part of my
tour both difagreeable and unedifying. Crofs a fmall river called the Sark, which du
vides the two kingdoms, and enter Cumberland.

About three miles farther crofs the E(k over a handfome ftone bridge, and lie at the
fmall village of I.ongtown. The country is very rich in corn, but quite bare of trees,
.ind very flat. Near this village, at Nctherhy, are the ruins of a Roman llatioi>, whore
fiatues, weapons, and coins are often dug up.

Crofs the Eden to Carlifle, a pleafant city, furrounded with walls, like Cheflier, but
they are very dirty, and kvpt in bad repair. The caflle is auticnt, but niakLS a good
appearance at a diilance : the view from it is fine, of lich meadows, nt this iime co-
vered with thoufands of cattle, it being fair-day. The Eden here forms two braiiches,
and infulates the ground ; over one is a bridge of four, over the other one of nine
.'krchcs. There is befides a profpecl of a rich covmtry, and a dillant view of Cold-fells,
Crofs-fclls, Skiddaw, and other mountains.

The cathedral * is very imperfccl, Cromwell having pulled down part to build bar-
racks with the materials. There remains fome portion that was built in the .Saxon
times, with very mafly pillars and round arches. The rcrt is more modern, faid to

• Begun by Walter, deputy of tlicfc part?, under William llufui ; b.il tl;t new choir was nci fcurdt J-
tirt abuut 1354.

huV»

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

1 10

irph that I
\ rich corn.
ivith a fine
"ter this, it
there was
cc of good
• the north
ipices, im-

in fcrophu.

n funimer.

I hillory of

the world

'retender's
rtunitics of

downs and

nplcafant ;

)art of my

which di-

W.i fciUHlcJ'

hr.v»

have been built in the reign of Edward HI. who hadiu ci5o \xnt an r.pirttnont t>
l(Hlgc in. The arches in this latter building- arc fliarp poiatcd ] the call window rt -
iiiarkably fine.

The manufaftures of Carlifle are chiefly of printed linens, for which nj.ir i;oool.
per ann. is paid in dnties. It is alfo noted for a great manulaiftiire of whips., wliicli
employs numbers of children.

Salmons appear in the Eden in numbers fo early as the months of December and
January; and the London, and even NewcalUe markets are fupplied with eirly fiHi
from this river ; but it is remarkable, that they do not vifit the Elk in any quinlity
till April, notwithlianding the mouths of both thefe waters are atafmall dilhmce from
each other. I omitted in its proper place an account of the NewcaRIe hihery, therefore
inilrt here the little I could collect relating to it. Th- fiHi IVlJom appear in tlie Tvnc
till February : there are about 24 fiflieries on the river, beliJes a very confidcrablc
vcre, and the whole annual capture amounts to about 36,000 Hfli. I was intormed
that once the fifh were brought from Berwick, and cured at Newcaftle ; but at pre-
fent, notwithfhmding all goes under the name of Newcaftle falmon, very little is taken
there, in comparifon of what is caught in the Tweed.

The country near Carlifle confifts of fmall inclofures, but a little farther^ on, to-
wards Penrith, changes into coarfe downs. On the ealt, at a diftance, are ridges of
high hills running parallel to the road, with a good inclofed country in the inter-
vening fpace. Above Penrith is a rich inclofcd trad, mixed with hedge-row trees and
woods. On the fouth-weft, a profpcdt of high and craggy mountains. After I left
I.ockerby, Nature, as if exhaulled with her labours, in the lofty hills of Scotland,
fecmed to have lain down and repofed herfelffor a confiderable fpace ; but here began
to rife again with all the fublimity of Alpine majefty.

Between the twelfth and thirteenth mile-ftones is Plumpton. Plumpton park was
leafed by Henry VIII. to Jack Mufgrave, Captain of Bewraith, an active man in his
day, \\ ho fettled on five of his fons as many tenements.

Old Penrith, the antient Bremetenreium and Vorada of Antonina, ftood in this pa-
rifli. On the road fide, floping towards the river Petrel, the vallum, fofs, and gates
are ftill very vifible ; and alfo great ruins of a town. The fort is called Caftle fleeds ;
the town (3ld Penrith. Camden copied fcveral infcriptions, for which I refer to his
Britannia and to Dr. Burn's Iliftory of this county. Here are the faint veftiges of a
military road which points towards Kefwick and joined another, which were by Elen-
borough and Papcaftle to Amblcfide. This ftation was alfo the Berada of the Raven-
nas ; and was garrifoned by a Cuneus Armaturarum, a cohort of the Ala Petriana, a
body of horfe completely armed, mentioned in the notitia, fo mull have been ftationed
jiere very late in the Roman empire.

About four miles farther is Penrith, &;c. an antient town, feated at the foot of a
hill : is a great thoroughfare for travellers^ but has little other trade, except tanning,
and a fmall manufaflure of ch(.'cks. In the church-yard is a monument of great anti-
quity, confiding of two ftone pillars eleven foot fix inches high, and live in circum-
ference in the lower part, which is rounded ; the upper is i'quarc, and tapers to a
^int ; in the fquajfe part is fomc fret-work, and the relievo of a crofs, and on the in-
terior fide of one is the faint reprci'entalion of fomc animal. Both thefe ftones are
mortifed at their lower part into a round one ; they are about hftecir feet afunder ;
tiie fpace betv.-een them is inclofcd on each fide with two very large but thin femi-
circular ftones ; fo that there is left a walk between pillar and pillar cf two feet in

1 o broadth.

i 1;

!l|l

'<m

WuMK^a'

PliNN ant's tour in SCOTLAND.

breadth. Two of ihefe lefler ftoncs arc plain, the two other have certain figures at
prefent fcarce intelligible.

Theft' ftones fcem to have been monumental, and are evidently chriftian, as appears by
by the crofs on the capital: fable fays that they were to peipetuate the memory of
Cefarius, a hero of gigantic Ihiture, whofe body extended from ftone to ftone ; but
it is probable, that the fpace marked by^ thefe columns contained feveral bodies, or
might have been a family lepiilchre.

Not far from thefe pillars is another called the Giant's thumb, five feet eight inchv*s
high, with an expanded hoail perforated on both fides ; from the middle the ftone
rifes again into a leller head rounded at top, but no part has a tendency to the figure
of a crofs, being in no other part mutilated ; fo that it is difficult to judge of the ufe or
defign of this pillar *.

The church is very neat : the galleries fupported by twenty ftones, each ten feet
four inches high, and four feet two inches in circumference. On one of the walls is
this melancholy record of a peftilence that wafted the country in the latter end of the
reign of Queen Elizabeth :

A. D. M.DXCVIII ex gravi pcfte qu:e regionibus lu'fce incubuit, obicruot apud Penrith 22^. Ken-
dal x 500. Richmond 2 aco. Carlifle 1 19O f .

Pofteri
avortite voi et vivtte.

On confulting a very old regifter kept in this parifli it appears that the plague raged
here for fifteen months ; from the aid September 1597 to 5th January 1598, and that
only 680 perfons were buried in the parifh during that time. It feems therefore pro-
bable that Penrith muft have been the centre of fome particular diftri^, and that the
numbers recorded on the wall muft comprehend all that died within that fpace. Pen-
rith now contains about 2000 fouls. At a medium, 63 have died annually the laft ten
years, or 630 in the whole. In the ten years preceding the pedilence there were only
686 funerals ; fo that there was no great difference between the number of inhabitants
at that and the prefent time. Some centuries previous to this Penrith had another vifit-
ationof the fame nature. When the Scots under the Earl of Dougbfs in 1380 made
an inroad into Cumberland, they furprized this place at the time of the fair J, and re-
turned with immenfe booty ; but fuftered feverely in confequence, for they introduced
into their country the plague contrafted in this town, which fwept away one third of the
inhabhants of Scotland §.

Thecaftleis at the fkirts of the town, and now very ruinous. It appears not to have
been of a high antiquity; for in acompromifeof certain differences between Henry III.
and Alexander King of Scotland, it was ftipulated that Henry fhould grant to Alexander
2 0olibratesofland in Northumberland or Cumberland, iffo much of Henry's land could
be found in any of the places where no cadle was fituated ; and Penrith was part of this
grant. Richard Duke of Gloucefter, afterwards Richard III. refided frequently at this
caftle, and either was the founder, or npaired it greatly, for there is no mention of it
before his time. The feignory of Penrith || was part of the great eftate he had with his
Dutchcfs Anno (afterwards queen daughter to Richard Nevil the great Earl of War-

• Vide tab. iii. of the ift aiul 2d editions.

t Holliiillted 428.

'! Bu.k'sIJfcof RiJia-dlll.

f It broke out in Carlifle October •;d.
\ Guthnc'sHiil. Stutl. 111. 1^3."

wick

>'«'•;

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND*

lai

m figures at

s appears by

memory of

ftone : but

1 bodies, or

eight inchvs
le the Acne
o the figure
f the ufe or

ch ten feet

the walls is

end of the

alio. Ken-

lague raged
i8, and that
?refore pro-
md that the
'ace. Pen-
the laft ten
; were only
inhabitants
lot her vifit-
1380 made
■ t, and re-
introduced
third of the

not to have
Henry HI.
Alexander
land could
part of this
ntlyat this
■ntion of it
ad with his
1 of War-

wick. By his refidence here and his magnificent mode of living he gained great popu-
larity in the north, and he feemed to depend greatly on the troops from that part, for
he caufed five thoufand to march from thence to London to fupport his coronation.
On his death, this and other neighbouring manors reverted to the crown : and remain-
ed in that ftate, till they were granted by King William to his favourite Bentinck Earl of
Portland.

The caftle was difmantled by Cromwell, but it does not appear in any hiftory to have
fuflained a fiege.

In this town lives Mifs Calvin of exquifite (kill and accuracy in painting of plants and
flowers : a heaven-born genius obfcure and unknown I

Full many a gem of pureft ray ferene,
The dark unfathom'd caves of ocean bear :
Full many a flower is born to blufh unfeen,
.; '' , i\nd walle its fweetnefa in the dcfert air.

She communicated to me a moft beautiful drawing of a fpecies of water-ouzel fliot
in the neighbouring fells. It was lefs than the common kind, and the tail fhorter.
The throat white, croffed below with a dulky band : the belly mottled with black and
white : the upper part of the neck, the back, and coverts of the wings, dufky, flightly
edged with white : tail and primaries black.

Crofs over the Eimot at Eamont bridge. The river and bridge take their name from
the Saxon Ea or Eye, water, and mont, as the water flows out of a mountainous re»
gion. On paffing the bridge I immediately enter the county of

WESTMORELAND.

September 21, At a fmall diflance beyond the bridge, near the road fide, is the circle
called Arthur's round table, confiftingof a high dike of earth, and a deep fofs within,
furrounding an area twenty-nine yards in diameter. There are two entrances exaftly
oppofite to each other j which interrupt the ditch in thofe parts filled to a level with the
middle. Some fuppofe this to have been defigned for tilting matches, and that the
champions entered at each opening. Perhaps that might have been the purpofe of it;
for the fizc forbids one to fuppofe it to be an encampment.

A little to the north of this, on the fummit of a fmall hill, is Mayborough, a vafl
circular dike of loofe (tones : the height and the diameter at the bottom is flupendous:
it flopes on both fides, and is entirely formed of pebbles, fuch as are collected out of
rivers. There is an entrance on the eaft fide leading into an area eighty-eight yards in
diameter. Near the middle is an upright flone nine feet eight inches high, and feven-
tecn in circumference in the thickefl part. There had been three more placed fo as t»
form (with the other) a fquarc. Four again flood on the fides of the entrance, viz.
one on each exterior corner ; and one on each interior ; but, excepting that at prefent
remaining, all the others have long fiuce been blalled to clear the ground.

The uie of this accumuhition fcems to have been the fame with that called Bryn-trwyn
at Trer Dry w in Anglefca *, a I'lipremc confiftory of Druidical admin iftration, as the
Britifh names import. That in Anglefea is confiruded in the fame manner with this;
but at prefent there are no remains of columns in the interior part. Tradition is entirely
lilent about the origin of this phcc : nothing can be coUeilcJ from the name, which
is Saxon, and given long after its con(h-ui"Hon.

wick

vol,. III.

M'.ii.a Antiqua, 2d cd. yD,
R

Almoft

122

PENNANT S TOUR W SCOTLAND.

Almoft oppofiteto Mayborough on the Cumberland fide of the Eimot is a vafl: cairn
or tumulus, compofed of round ftones, and furrounded with large grit ftones of dif-
Rrrnt fizcs, feme a yard fquare ; which all together form a circle fixty feet in diameter.

Crofs the Lowther or Loder, and in about three or four miles diibnce pafs Clifton
Moor, where the rebels in 1 745 facrificed a few men to fave the reft of their army.

Reach Shap or Heppe, a long village with the ruins of the priory of Premonftrenfian
canons and its beautiful tower placed in a fequeftered bottom to the north-weft of the
road. The religious of this houfe were originally placed at Prefton in Kendal by
Thomas fon of Gofpatric ; and afterwards removed to this valley, which in old times
was called the valley of Mary Magdalene, and was granted to them by Robert de
Vtteripont in the thirteenth year of King John.

On the common near the road fide half a mile beyond the village are certain large
circles, and ovals formed of fmall ftones : and parallel to the road commences a double
row of granites of immenfe fizes, croffed at the end by another row, all placed at fome
diftance from each other. This alley I may call it, extended once above a mile ; pafs-
ing quite through the village ; perfons now living remember to have feen fome ftones
that formed part of the lines, but now blafted in order to clear the ground. The fpace
between the lines at the fouth end is eighty-eight feet : they converge towards each
other, for near Shap the diftance decreafes to fifty-nine feet ; and it is probable that they
met and concluded in a point forming a wedge. That this monument was DaniOi may
be inferred from the cuftom of the Northern nation of arranging their recording
ftones in forms that they feemed to determine ftiould be exprelTive of certain events :
thofe that were placed in a ftrait and long order commemorated the emulations of
champions : fquares ftiewed equcftrian conflids : circles, the interments of families :
wedge-ftiaped, a fortunate viftoi-y *. Succefs might have attended the Northern in-
vaders in this place, which gave rife to their long arrangement : the fall of fome con-
fanguineous heroes in the a^ion caufed the grateful tribute of the ftony circles.

Pafs over Shap fells, more black, dreary and melancholy than any of the Highland
hills, being not only barren, but dcftitute of every pidlureique beauty. This gloomy
fcene continues for feveral miles : leave on the right the narrow valley of Long Sladale,
and at a diftance the mountain of Kenmere fell, famous for its flate quarries. The
profped grows more chearful within a fmall diftance of

Kendal, a large town, feated in a beautiful valley prettily cultivated, and watered by
the river Ken. The principal ftreet is above a mile long, running north and fouth :
the houfcs old and irregular, moftly plaiftered. Yet the whole has an air of neatnefs
and induflry without the leaft ollcntation of weahh ; none appear meanly poor,
or infuhingly rich. The number of inhabitants is about feven thoufand ; chiefly en-
gaged in manufadurcs of liiifies, worftcd llockings woven and knit, and a coarfe fort
of woollen cloth called cotlons, lent to Glafgow, and from thence to Virginia for the
ufe of the negroes. The carding and the friczing mills, the rafping and cutting of log-
wood by different machines are well worth feeing : and the tenter fells all round the
town, where the cloth is (Iretched, ftiew the extent of the manufaiSures, which employ
great quantities of wool from Scotland and Durham.

Yet I he place labours under great difadvntagcs ; the country near it yields no corn
except oats ; the fuel is in general peat j for the coals being brought from Wigan and
ether didant places, coft nineteen (hillings per ion : yet notwithftanding, it has llounlhed
in manufactures from the time of Riciiard the Second to the prefent : Carnden honours
it with this encomium, Lanijicii Gloria^ et Indujlria pracellens.

* Olaus Magnus de Cent, bcptentr. lib.i. c. 18.

lam

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

123

a vaft cairn
3nes of dif<
1 diameter.
»afs Clifton
their army,
onftrenfian
weft of the
Kendal by
n old times
Robert de

rtain large
Ds a double
ed at fome
nile; pafs-
3me (tones
The fpace
('ards each
le that they
)anifh may
recording
n events:
ilations of
F families c
rthem in-
fome con-
es.

Highland
is gloomy
Sladale,
»es. The

atered by
id fouth :
neacnefs
y poor,
iiefly en-
)arfe fort
a for the
g of log.
und the
\ employ

no corn
gan and
uunfhed
honours

lam

I am furprized that Doftor Burn (hould omit the mention of a native of this town who
would have done honour to any country. Thomas Shaw, the celebrated traveller, was
born here in 1693. He was fon of Gabriel Shaw, flieermanand dyer, a reputable and
profitable bufinefs. The merit of his travels in Barbary, Egypt, and the Holy-hmd,
arejuftlyin the higheft eftimation *, and beyond the danger of being either deprotiated
or Aiperfeded. He became follow of Queen's College, Oxford, and was promoted to
theheadlhip of Edmund Hall, and in 1751 died in high reputation for knowledge,
probity, and pleafantry. His countenance was grotefque, but marked mod ftrongly
with jocularity and good humour, fo as to difFul'e into the company the full eftefts of
his innocent and inltru£llve mirth. The print prefixed to his works is a faithful repre-
fentation of this excellent and able charafter.

The church is large, divided into five aifles. The mofl: remarkable tomb is one In the
altar form of black marble, with various arms on the fide and end, fuppofed to be that
of William Parr, anceftor of William Parr Marquis of Northampton, and his fifter
Queen Catherine, wife to Henry VIII.

The ruins of the caftle are on the fummit of a round hill on the eaft fide of the town.
It is of great antiquity ; but the founder is not known. It appears to me to have been
built on an artificial mount raifed on the top of the hill, with a deep fofie round the
bafe. The barony of Kendal was granted by William the Conqueror to Ivo de Tale-
bois one of his followers, whofe defcendants frequently refided in the caftle. From
them it paflfed by marriage to the Roffes, and from them to the Parrs : and when in
their poffeffion Catherine afterwards Queen of England was born here ; a lady who
had the good fortune to defcend to the grave with her head, in all probability merely
by outliving her tyrant. It does not appear that this caftle fuftained any fiege : but in
1774 the Scots, under Duncan Earl of Fife, entered and plundered the town, broke
open the churches, put all the inhabitants to the fword, fparing neither age nor fex f.

Take a very pleafant walk to Water-Crook, a mile diftant, along the fides of the
Ken. This had been the Concangium of the Notitia, a ftation on the eaft fide of the
river, whofe veftiges are almoft v/orn away by the plough. Altars, coins, and other
antiquities have been found here. I faw in the walls of the barn of the farm houfe, the
monumental infcription preferved by Mr. Horfely, p. 300, fuppofed by him to have
been in memory of two freed-men ; and that there was added the penalty of a fine on
any who prefumed to bury in that fepulchre. Here is preferved an altar un-infcribed,
but ornamented with beautiful feftoons : and I alfo faw the remains of the ftatue fup-
pofed of Bacchus or Silenus.

Crofs the river and walk over fome fine meadows. Pafs by fome large round hil-
locks, one appearing artificial : afcend to gain the heights, above the town : leave below
me near thelkirts a well called the Anchorite's, probably from fome hermitage once in
its neighbourhood. Reach Caftlehow hill, a great artificial mount above the town,
and oppofite to the caftle. The fummit is flat : juft within its verge is a circular ditch :
and another tranfverfe, probably the place of the foundaiioii of a tower. Round the
bafe is a deep fofs and high dike, and on the eaft fide of the dike two baftions to give
it additional llrength. Immediately below is a fpot called Battle place, but tradition
does not preferve the reafon of the name.

At a very finall diltance from Kendal I crofle J the Ken j purfued my journey over
End-moor, and paffed through the townlhip of Prellon Richard, in the parifli of
Haverflwm, remarkable for being, from the reign of Henry II. to that of Edward 111.

♦ See Britilh Zoology, i. p. 216, 410. or 253. 8vo.

R 2

t HoHnlhcd'sChron. 91.

a fpace

124

PHNNAKt's tour in SCOTLAND.

a fpace of two hundred years, owned by peil'ons of the name of Richard de PrefJon.
Soon after, went through the fniall market town of Burton in Kendal, in the parifli of
Burton, the moil fouthern of any in WedmOreland. At a fmall diflance enter

LANCASHIRK.

■ After travelling an imlnterefUng flagc r.'ach its capital Lancaflcr, a largo and well
built town, feated on the Lune, a river navigable for fliips of 250 tons as high as thff
bridge. The Cuftom-houle is a fmall but moll elegant building, with a portico fup-
ported by four Ionic pillars, on a mofl beautiful plain pediment. There is a double
right of Iteps, a ruftic furbafe and coins ; a work that does much credit to Mr. Gillow,
the architeft, an inhabitant of this town.

The church is feated on an eminence, and coinmands an extenfive but not a plcafing
view. The caflle is entire, the courts of jullice are held in it ; and it is alfo the county
jail. The front is very magnificent, conlills, of two large angular towers, with a hand-
fome gateway between.

Eleven miles farther is the village Garflang, feated on a fertile plain, boimded on the
ead by the fells, on the weft by Felling mois, which formerly made an eruption like
that of Solway. The adjacent country is famous for producing the rinefl: cattle in all
the county. A gentleman in that neighbourhood has rcfufed 30 guineas for a three
year old cow: calves of a month old have been fold for 10 : and bulls from 70 to
100 guineas, which have afterwards been hired out for the feafon for 30; fo, notwith-
ftandinghis misfortujic, well might honed Barnaby celebrate the cattle of this place.

Vetii GaiHang iibi nata
Sunt Armt'iita froiite lata,
Vtni Gai Hang, ubi male
Intrans forum beftialc.
Forte vaccillando vico
Hue rt illuc cum nmico,
' In JuvcncK iloifum rui

Cujus cornu Izfus fui.

A little to the call is a ruined tower, the remains of Grenehaugh caflle, buiJt, as
Camden fuppofes, by Thomas Stanley firft Earl of Derby, to protect himfelffrom the
outlawed nobility, whofe cftates had been granted him by Henry VII.

September 2 2d, haftened through Prefton, Wigan, Warrington, and Che/lcr, and
finiflied my journey with a rapture of which no fond parent can be ignorant, that of
being again reftored to two innocent prattlers after an abfence equally regretted by all
parties.

APPENDIX.— Number I.

Of Scotch Pirws.
Bjr Jam5s F RQi'HA»sos, i:i"q. ; of Invercauld.

IT Is generally believed that tiiere are two kinds of fir trees, the produce of Scot-
land, viz. the red or reiiuous large trees, of a fine grain, and hard folid wood : the
othtr, a white wooded fir with a much finaller proportion of refin in it, of a coarfer
grain, and a foft fpongy nature, uevtr comes to fuch a fize, and much more liable to

decay.

Pennant's tour in scotlako.

■*'M

decay. At firfl: appearance, this would readily denote two diftinft fpecie:?, but I am
convinced that all the trees in Scotland, under the denomination of Scotch fir, are the
fame; and that the difference of the quality r-*' the wood, and lizc of the trees, is cer-
tainly owing to circumilances, fuch as the ». ite, ruuation, and foil they grow in.
Tlu'fc finell hr-tree.s appear in the mofl mountainous parts of the Highlands of Scotland,
in glens or on fides of hills generally lying to a northerly afpeft, and the foil of a hard
gravflly confillcnce, being the natural produce of thefc places ; the vviiigrd feeds are
fcattcrcd in quantities by the winds, from the cones of the adjacent trees, which expand
in April and May, with the heat of the fun ; thefe feedlings when young, rile extremely
clofe together, this makes them grow ilraight, and free from fide branches of any fize, to
the height of 5- or 60 feet before they acquire the diameter of afoot : even in this pro-
grefs to height, they are very flow, occafioned by the poornefs of the foil, and the num-
bers on a fmall furface, which I may fay makes them in a conftant (late of war for their
fcanty nourifiiment, the ftrongerand tailed by degrees overtopping the weaker, and
when the winds blow they lafli againfl one another ; this affifls in beating o^Fany hori-
zontal branches that might damage the timber with knots, as well as by degrees cruflies
the overtopped trees. In fuch (late of hoflility they continue flruggUng until the
mafler trees acquire fome fpace around them ; then they begin to Ihoot out in a more
bufliy manner at the top, gradually lofing their fpiral form, increafing afterwards
more in fize of body then height, fome acquiring four feet diameter, and above fixty
feet of height to the branches, fit for the finell deal board. I'he growth is extremely
flow, as is plainly proved by the fmallnefs of the grain of the wood, which appears dif-
tinflly in circles, from the centre to the bark. Upon cutting a tree overclofe at the
root, I can venture to point out the exact age, which in thefe old firs comes to an amaz-
ing number of years, I lately pitched upon a tree of two feet and a half diameter, as
this is near the fize of a planted fir of fifty years of age mentioned, and I counted ex-
actly two hundred and fourteen circles or coats, which makes this natural fir above four
times the age of the planted one.' Now as to planted firs, thefe are raifed firfl in drefl'ed
ground from the feed, where they (land two feafons or more, then are planted out in
the ground they are to continue in at regular diflances, have a clear circumference
round them for extending both roots and branches ; the one gives too quick nourifii-
ment to the tree which (hoots out in luxuriant growths, and the other allows many of
the branches to fpread horizontally, fpoiling the timber with knots ; befides, this quick
growth occafions thefe thick yearly circular coats of wood, which form a coarfe grain,
of a fpongy foft nature. The juices never after ripen into a proportional quantity
their rcfinous prcl'ervatlve balm : fo that the plantations decay before the wood acquires
age, at a valuable fize, and the timber when ufed in work has neither (Irength, beauty,
nor duration. I believe the climate has likewife a great fhare in forming the nature of
the belt wood, which I account for in the following manner. The moll: mountainous
parts of the Highlands, particularly the northerly hanging fituations, where thefe fine
fir trees are, have a much fhorter time of vegetation than a more fouthcrly expofure,
or the lower open countries, being fliaded by high hills from the rays of the fun even
at mid-day for months together, fo that with regard to other vegetables nature vifibly
continues longer in a torpid ftate there than in other places of the fame latitude.
Ihis dead ftate of nature for fo long a time yearly appears to me ncceffary to form the
ftrcngth and hcahh of this particular fpecies of timber. No doubt they may at firft
fhow a gratefuhicfs for better foil and more fun by fhooting out fpontaneoufly, but if
the plant or tree is fo altered by this luxury that it cannot attain any degree of perfec-
tioa fit for the purpofes intended, the attempt certainly proves in vain.

From

lit)

PENMANT'8 TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

From what Is faid above, it is not at all my intention to difluadc from planting Scotch fir,
but to encourage thofe that have the proper foil and fituation to do fo, being of opinion
that where thefe circumdances agree, and there, planting not in lines, but irregularly and
thicker than common, the trees will come to be of equal fize and value with the natu-
ral ones. In confidence of this, I have planted feverai millions on the fides of hilb out
uf reach of feed from the natural firs.

APPENDIX— Number II. ^

0/ Elgin and ilu Shire of Murray, '••

By the Rev. Mr. Shaw, Minlfter of Elgin.

THE parifli of Elgin can afford little matter for anfwering Mr. Pennant's queries,
and therefore I extend my view through the whole province or country of Murray, ex-
tending by the coaft from the river of Spcy to the eaft, to the river of Beauly to the weft,
which is the boundary of the province of Rofs : and extending to the fouth-weft as far
as the north end of Loch-Lochy, and comprehending the countries of Strathfpey, Bade-
noch, Strathern, Strath-nairn, and Strath-nerick, all which were the feats of the an-
cient Moravienfes. I (hall make my anfwero to the queries in order, and advance no-
thing but what confifls with my perfonal knowledge, or for which I have unqueftionable

authority.

I. This province is naturally divided by the rivers of Spey. l.rffey, Findern, Nairn,
Nefs, and Beauly. The river of Spey rifing on the borders of Lochaber is more than
fixty Scotch miles, or a hundred Englifh in length, but toe rapid to be navigable.
Upon this river great floats of fir and birch wood are carried down to the firth ; the
float is guided by a man fitting in a courach, of which Solinus, cap. 22. fays of the
Iriih, " Navigant vimineis alveis, quos circumdant ambitione tergoruin bubulorum," a
fhort but exatl dcfcription of the courach. It is in (hape oval, about four feet long and
three broad, a fmall keel from head to ftern, a few ribs crofs the keel, and a ring of
pliable wood round the lip of it, the whole cov red with the rough hide of an ox or a
horfe. The rower fits on a tranfverfe feat in tht middle, and holds in his hand a rope,
the end of which is tied to the float, and with the ether hand he manages a paddle, and
keeps the float in deep water and brings it to (hore when he pleafes. The rivers of
Lofl'ey, Findern and Nairn, have nothing remarkable in them, but the river of Nefs is
obfervable on the following accounts, viz. It runs from Loch-Nefs, a lake 23 miles
long, and from 2 to 3 broad ; this loch is fed by a river running from Loch-Eoch, into
which a river falls from Loch-Garric, into which a river enters from Loch-Queich :
Loch-Ncfs and the river running from it never freeze, but the water is warm in the
kecneft frolt. There arc many other lakes in this province, of which one called the
lake Dundclchack is remarkable : the inhabitants of the neighbourhood told me that
this lake is never covered with ice before the month of January, but in that month and
February one night's ftrong froft rovers it all over with ice : this lake ftands in the parifli
of Durris, within two miles of Loch-Nefs. On the eaft fide of Loch-nefs, a large mile
ibove the loch, is the water-fall of Foher, where the river Feach Lcn falls over a fteep
rock iibout l^o feet in height ; and the water breaking upon the flielves, rarifies hke a
log. In this province are ieveral chalybeate mineral fprings, as at Tinland in Lambride
parifli, at Aucliterblare in Duthel pari/h, at Rclugos in Edenkeely parifh, at Muretown in
Inverncfs parifli.

7 II. In

g Scotch flr,
g of opinion
egularly and
ith the natu<
s of hilh out

int's queries,
Murray, ex-
f to the weft,
ith-weft as far
thfpey, Bade,
ts of the an-
l advance no-
nqueftionable

dern, Nairn,
is more than
)e navigable,
the firth ; the
2. fays of the
jbulorum," a
feet long and
and a ring of
F an ox or a
land a rope,
paddle, and
The rivers of
ver of Nefs is
akc 23 miles
h-Eoch, into
och-Queich :
warm in the
2 called the
told me that
It month and
i in the parifli
a large mile
5 over a fteep
'arifies like a
in Lambride
[uretown in

II. In

rBHNANT S Tor.. IN iCOTI MD. 187

II. In the pari/h of Drainie there is a large cave open to the a, of a cr iderablu
length, breadth, and height. There arc many natural caves in i • hiNii, wit. i which
hunters, herds and thieves take fhelter in time of ftorm : there is .in artifical c.ive in the
lands of Raits in Badenoch, in which fugitives and thieves were wi .^ • rcf! , but it is
now demolifhed in part. Of the mountains in this province? I Ihall name but two or
three : the Carngorm in Strathfpey is remarkable for its height, and for the ftones found
upon it ; I have feen thefe ftones of blue, green, yellow, and amber colours ; fome fo
large as to make big fnuff-boxes or fmall cups; fome of a hexagonal or penta^;onal
figure, and tapering to a point at each end. Thefc are now well known to the curious
and to jewellers. Another mountain is Benaiar in Badenoch, which I imagine is the
higheft ground in Scotland, for waters running from it fall into the fea at Dundee, at
Inverlocny, and at Garmoch in Murrav. On the weft fide of Loch-Nefs there is a hill
called Meafuarvoney : Mr. Gordon the geographer was impofed upon by being told
that it is two miles perpendicular above the lake, and that on the top of it, there is a
fmall lake which could never be founded, and communicates with Loch-Nefs : but I
canaflurc you it is not neiir one mile above the loch, and there is no fuch lake on the
top of it. For pifturefquc fcenes, worth drawing, I know none except Loch-Nefs :
vrith the rocks, woods, cafcades of rills of water, and fome plots of corn land, on both
fides of the loch, which make a delightful fcene to one failing the loch in the King's
yatcht, or in a barge.

III. No earthquake, that I can learn, was ever felt in this province. No whirlwind
any way remarkable : there are feveral echoes, but fcarcely worth the mentioning.
About the 1 733 or 4, flafties of lightning fo ftruck the houfe of Innes near Elgin, as by
entering into crevices in the wall to drive out big ftones, likewife to rent a confiderablc
long vault, and to tofs a large cap-ftone above forty yards from the houfe, as the late Sir
Harry Innes of that ilk told me.

IV. The common difeafes in our country are fevers, rheums, cold, fcrofula, hyfteric
and hypocondriac ; bites of ferpents, and mad dogs. Our natural phyficians cure
levers, by making the patient drink plentifully of barley water or wangrels, and when
the fever rifes high the patient drinks a large draught of cold water which brings out a
profufe fweat, that ends in a crifis. For rheums, they twice a-day bathe the part af-
feded, pouring cold water upon it, and after it is dried, rubbing it till it is warm, and
covering it with plaiding or ilannel. For colds, they keep bed for two days, drinkin"-
warm, and if they fweat not, they take the cold bath in a river or brook, which produces
fweat. The fcrofula they find incurable, but in young perfons, by wafhing often with
lime water, it cures in a few years. Hyfterics and hypocondriacs, in my opinion, are
the eSeds of tea, coffee, floth and lariuefs, but thefe dileales arc never known in our
Highlands. When one is bit by a lerpent or fnake, if be can reach the wound, he fucks
the blood, covers the wound, and often foments the part wounded, and members
round it, with a decoftion of the buds and leaves of afti trees. When one is bit bv a
mad dog, as often happens in the Highlands, he with a raz^r immediatclv cuts out the
flefh nf the part wounded, fucks the blood in plenty, and covers the wound whh a hand-
full of cobwebs : or if he has not courage to cut out the flelh, and thereby to prevent
the poifon from mixing with the blood, he caufes the wound to be well fucked, and then
foments it with warm oil or melted butter. J have feen thefe cures performed with re-
mariiable fuccels. We have had, fifty years ago, a terrible difeufe called the Civans,
which broke out into blotches in ievcral parts of the body, and often turned into a (gan-
grene in the face : this difeafe was brought by the niiUtary returning from Flanders,

and

138

FHKNANT's tour in SCOTLAND.

nnd was cured only by a plentiful falivation with mercury, but now wc arc happily
tree from it.

V. In tl>e parifli of Elgin, William Calancli, a farmer, died about the year 1740, at
the age of about 1 19 years; wc have had many who lived to an 100 years} wc have
fome who have two thumbs on each hand, or two great toes on each foot.

Vf. and VII. In this town of Elgin the number of inhabitants increafes, occaftoned
by Grangers living in the borough and many poor people coining from the country
into if. JJut in the parilh to landward the number appears to decroafe, by rcafon of
tenants taking up larger farms than formerly : the number now is above 5000.

VIII. The corns raiibd in this province are wheat, barley, oats, peas and beans, and
rye. Of thcfe in good years we have enouf,h to ferve the country, and to export above
20, coo bolls, befiiles ferving the Highland countries. Our manufachires arc linen in
connjcrable quantities, wool and common (luffs, and now at Invcrnefs a ilourifhing
fail manufactory, and a ropery. Our fifliery is confidcrable, for of white or fea-fiHi
there is great plenty to ferve the country and towns, and fometimes to export a little.
And our i'almon on the rivers of Spey, Kindern, Nels, and lieauly, ferves the towns
and country, and we export annually to the value of about i3,oooL

IX. Near the frith, the farmers manure with fca ware or weeds, which produces
richly; in other parts they ufe marie, lime, dung of cattle, and in the Highlands tathing,
i. c. keeping their cattle in liimmer and autumn within pinfolds on barren or reded
ground, that by th^ir dung they may enrich the loil ; and in many parts they ufe
green earth mixed with the dung of black cattle and horfes.

X. We cultivate fomo hemp, much flax, of which wc not only make linen for home
confuniption, and have three bleaching fields within the province, befides private
bleaching, but we fell great quantities of linen yarn to the merchants of Glafgow and
othf'ts. We likewire cultivate potatoes in great plenty to ferve the country.

XI. From the Lowlands of the province few or no cattle are fent out of the country,
but Iroin the Iligliland glens and valleys, fcveral hundreds of black cattle, fome horfes,
but no fwinc, are annually fold into England and the fouthern counties of Scotland.

XII. There arc in this province feveral fmall mounts or motes, of which I cannot
determine whether any of them be artificial or not ; they generally (land about 40 paces
one from another ; I Ihall name only the following : viz. Near the town of Elgin
are two little mounts called the (hooting-buts, and two of the lame kind are near the
kirk ot I'city. I am inclined to think, that, before the invention of fire-arms, thefe
were marks for Ihooting at with bows and arrows; but that in time of Druidil'm, they
were the leats on uhicli the Druids met to determine qucflions in law and property j
and they are in the Oadic language called Tomavocd, i. e. the court hill ; and in the
loutl), tlicy are calLtl Laws, as North IJerwiek Law, Largo Law, &c. I may add the
OniTiis terra, or Mote-hill at Scoon. Wc. have few military entrenchments worth the
•mentioning', as the Romans encamped little, if at all, fo far north. Druidical circles
have been very frcqiuiu in this province. The iloncs were generally about four feet
in length, and eii^hteen inches in breadth; for the moil part, the flones are removed
by the country people, and J fhall name but one or two; viz. at Stonny-field near In-
vernel's, there was a l.irgc circle aixjut thirty feet diamelcr, fome of the flones as yet
flaiul. In Durris, at the north end of Loch-Nefs, is a Druid temple of three concentric
circles: in all thei'e druidical circles, ihtre was an altar-flone at the centre, but that at
JDurris i^, taken away, and near the centre is a hollowed flone, which either was a laver
10 wafh u), or a balun to receive the blood of the facrifice. Bciidcs circles, there were

10 ^ many

re happily

r 1740, at
J wc have

occnfioned
he country
^ rcafon of

)00.

beans, and
port above
ii'c linen in
flourifliing
; or fea-fiul
5ort a little.
i the towns

:h produces
ncis tathing.
:n or refted
•ts they ufe

rn for home
"idc'S private
Jiafgow and

the country,
fome horfes,
Scotland,
ch I cannot
out 40 paces
vn of Elgin
arc near the
arms, tlicfe
•uidil'm, they
id property ;

and in the
may add the
its worth the
idiciil circles
)Ut four Icet
ire removod
k'ld near In-
llones as yet
ce conci'Utric

but th.it at
r was u liiwr

there were
iii;iiiy

^KeT

riNNAMT** TOUR IN ICuTLANS.

many druidical cairns in this country, on which, at their folemn feftivals, they offered
their facrifices ; thefc cairns were about ftvc feet high, and about thirty feet in cir.
cumference, and hedged around with ftones pitted in the earth to prevent tlie falling
out of the flones of tne cairn; fuch a cairn (tands in the pariHi of Alves, four tnile^
from Elgin ; another in the parifli of Dirney, two miles from that town ; and two or
three near Avcmorc, in the parilh of Dutlirl in Strathl'pey. From llicle circiea and
cairns many churches are to this day called Clachan, i. e. a coUetUon of flones ; and
as they flood in time of druidifm in [proves and woods, a church in Wales was called
Lhan, probably from Lhuin a grove. There is within a half-mile to the eafl uf itte town
of Torres, an obeliflc called Seven's flone. The height of it cannot now with certainty
be known, it is faid to be twelve feet funk in the corn-fuld. When fome years a>;o it was
hkely to f;jll, the Countefs of Murray caufed it to be erefK'd, and much funk to pic-
vcnt falling : it is about twenty-three feet above ground, about four foot broad ; wlmt
is above ground is vifibly divided into fevcn parts, wherec;f the lowed is almoll hid by
the flones fupporting it ; the fecond divifion contains many figures, but much dcCiced;
in the third compartment are figures of men, and fome of beafts with hunrAU heads j
the fourth contams enfigns and military weapons ; and in the fifth, fixth, and Icvcntli,
the figures are fcarco dilcernible; on the reverfe there is a crofs, beneath which arc two
human figures of a Gothic form ; this fecms to be .1 monument of a battle fought in
that place, by King Malcolm II. of Scotland againft the Danes, about tiie year 1008.
There are about two or three obelifks of fix or feven feet high below the kirk of Alves,
probably as monuments of ikirmilhes, and the burying of men of fome figure.

XIII. In this province we had two bifhopricks, one abby, three priories, once pnc<
ceptory, and feveral convents. The firfl bifhopric was that of Murthlack, now Mort-
lich, ere£ted by K. Male. II. An. loio, when he had given a total defeat to the Danes
in that valley : the diocefe confifted only of three parifhes, and after three bifhops had
ferved there it was tranflated to Aberdeen, an. 1 1 42. As an account of it will be
fully given by others, I infift not further.

The fecond bifhoprick was that of Murray. In the fourth century the bifhop af-
fefted a pre-eminence oyer his fellow prefbyters, and an equality in many things to
fovereign princes : as princes had their thrones, were crowned, wore crowns, had their
palaces, their minifters of flate, their privy council, and their fubjefts; fo bifhops had
a folium, a confecration, a mitre, palaces, dignified clergy, chapter, and inferior clergy.
The epifcopal bifliopric of Murray, was, in my opinion, ereQed by K. Alexander I. j and
the bifhops of it were in fuocefTion.

(i.) Gregorius, who is a witnefs in a charter of K. David I. to Dumfermline, con-
firming K. Alexander's charter to that abby ; there he is called Gregorius Moravienfis
I'pifcopus : and in the foundation charter of the priory of Schoon, an. 1115, Grego-
rius Epifcopus is a witnefs, who probably was the fame with the formerly mentioned.

(2.) William was made apoftolic legate, an. 1 159, and died 1 162. I find not what
time he was confecrated.

(3.) Felix, is witnefs in a charter by K. William, Wilhlmo filio frejken^ de terrisy de
Sinibloci, Rofoil, InJ}}kck\ Duffus Macbare, et Kintray. He died about an. 1 1 70.

(4.) Simeon de Toney, monk of Melrofe, eleded 1 171, and died an. 1 184, he was
buried in Birney.

(5.) Andrew, confecrated an. 11 84, and died 1185. **

(6.) Richard, confecrated Idi. Martii, an. 1187, by Hugo bifhop of St. Andrew's,
and dial an. 1203, and was buried in Spynic.

vol,. III. s (7.) Bricius

frj

i '.

f\0

fENNANT's TOUR IN SCOTLAND,

(y.) Ericlus, brother of William loi\i of Dou;;!.!--, and prior of LeiTinahcgo, elefted
an. 1203, and tiicd an. 1^22, and w.is buried at Spynie. He had repn fented to the
pope tliat the former biiliops had no fixed i'ee, or cathedral, fome refulinj^ at Birney,
fomo at Kinnedar, and fdine at fDpynie; and lie obtained that Spynic fliould be the
the biiliop's fee ; he app minted the dignified clergy and canons, and founded a college
of canons, eight in number.

(8.) Andrew ffbn of William Murray of Dufius, dean of Murray,) confecrrted
an. 122^. He founded the. cathedral church at I'.lgin, added fourteen canons to the
college, and aliigned manfes and prebends for them, and for the dignified clergy, and
died an. 1242.

Here it will be proper to give fotne account of the cathedral church at Elgin, for
It docs not appear that Briceus built any church at Spynie. Bilhop Andrew was
not pleafed with the fituation of Spynie for a cathedral, and therefore petitioned the Pope,
that, becaufe the diilance from the burgh of Elgin, which would divert the canons
from their facred fundions to go and buy provifions in the burgh, that he might allow
the cathedral to be tranflated to the Ecclcfta fan£la Trinitatis prape Elgin : Pope Ho-
norius granted his requeft, and by his bull dated 4"'Idu°' Aprilis 1224 empowered the
bifliop of Caithnefs, and the dean of Rofemarky, to make the defired tranflation.
Thele met at the place defired, on the 14th of the kalends of Auguft, an. 1224 ; and
finding it " in commodum Ecclcftce" declared the church of the holy Trinity to be the
cathedral church of the diocefe of Murray in all times coming : it is faid that bi-
fhop Andrew laid the foundation-ftone of the church on the fame day above-
mentioned, but it docs not appear what the form or dimenfions of that firft church
were.

(9.) Simon dean of Murray fuccccded and died 1252, and was buried in the choir
of the cathedral near to bifliop Andrew.

(10,) Archibald dean of Murray, confecrated an. 1253, and died December 5th,
an. 1298, and was buried in the choir. This bifliop having no palace, built one at
Kinnedar, and lived there. In his time William Earlof Rofs, having done great harm
to the parfon of Petty, was obliged to do penance, and for reparation gave the lands
of CathoU in Rofs to the biihops of Murray in perpetuum.

(11.) David Murray, confecrated at Avignon in France, by Boniface VIII. anno
1299, and died January 20, anno 1325,

( 12.) John Pilmore, confecrated 3" kal. Aprilis, anno 1326, and died at Spynie on
Michaelmas-eve, 1362.

(13.) Alexander Bar, doftor decretorum, confecrated by Urban V. an. i3^>2, died
at Spynie, May 1397. In his time, viz. an- 1390, Alexander Stewart (fon of king
Robert II.) lord Badenoeh, commonly called the Wolf of Badenoch, keeping violent
pofll'flion of the bifliop's lands in that country, was excommunicated in refentinent, in
the month of May, an. 1390. He with his followers burnt the town of Forres, with
the choir of that church, and the archdeacon's houfe ; and in June that year burnt
the town of Elgin, the church of St. Giles, the hofpital of Maifon-Dicu, the cathedral
church, with eighteen houfes of the canons in the college of Elgin. For this he was
made to do penance, and, upon his humble fubmilfion, he was abfolved l)y Waller
Trail, bilhop ot St. Andrews, in the blacl4friar.s church of Perth (being firfl received
at the door, bar^f.^ot, and in I'ackcloth, and again before the high altar in preleiice of
th ' king ail 1 his cobles,) on condition that he would make full reparation to the bilhop
and church ot Murray, and obtain abfolutiou froiu the pope. Bilhop Bar began the

y rebuilding

'^,

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

'3»

rebuilding of the church, and every canon contributed to it, as did every parifh in the
diocefc.

(14,) William Spynie, chanter of Murray, D. I. C. cnnfecrated at Avignoii by
Benedid the IXth, Sept. 13th, 1397, and died Aug. loth, an. 1406. He carried on
the reparation of the cathedral, but the troubles of the tim.^s caufed it to make flow
advances. On July 3, an. 1402, Alexander 111. fou of the lord of the ifles, plundered
Elgin, burnt many houfcs, and fpoilcd the houfes of the canons: he was exco;nmu-
nicated, and offered a fum of gold, as did every one of his captains, and he received
abfolution : this money w.tr npplicd for ercdhig a crofs and a bell in that part of the
canonry which lies next the bridge of Elgin.

(15.) John Inncs, parfon of Uuffus, archdeacon of Caithnefs, and LL. D. was con-
fecrated by Benedict the Xillth, Jan. 22d, an. 1406, and died Apnl 25th, an. 1414,
and was buried in his own ifle in the cathedral, where his llatiie at large Hill remains
with this infcription, " Hie jacct reverendus in Chrijio Pater et Doininus D. Johcnmcs
Innes de hincs^ hiijiis ccclefia Epifcopus,qtii hoc notabile opus inccpit, ct per feptennium csdifi'
cavit" He built that ille and a part of the great fteeple or tower. After his tleath,
the chapter met, and all were fwom, that on whomloever the lot fhould fall to be
bifliop, he (hould annually apply one third of his revenues until the building of the
cathedral (hould be tinifhed.

(16.) Henry Leighton, parfon of Duffus, and LL. D. was confecrated in Valentia
by Bendid Xlll. March 8th, an. 1415: he diligently carried on the building, and finifhed
the great tower, and was tranflated to Aberdeen, an. 1425. The cathedral church
having been completely finifhed in the time of this bifhop, I fliall here defcribe that
edifice, which was all in the Gothic form of architedure. It flood due eafl and weft, in
the form of a pafTion or Jerufalem crofs : the length of it 264 feet ; the breadth 35 feet ;
the length of the traverfe 114 feet. The church was ornamented with five towers,
whereof two parallel towers ftood on the weft end, one in the middle, and two at
the eaft end : the two weft towers ftand entire in the ftone work, and arc each 84 feet
high ; what the height of the fpires was I do not find ; probably they were of wood,
and fell down long fiiice. The great tower in the centre of the nave ftood on two
arched pillars crofling at top, and was including the fpires, 198 feet in height ; the
two turrets in the ealt end arc ftill entire, and each has a winding ftalrcafe leading to
a channel or pafTage in the walls round the whole church. The height of the fide-
walls is 36 feet. Ihe great entry was betwixt the iwo towers in the well end ; this'
gate is a concave arch, 24 feet broad iir bafe, and 24 in height, terminating in a fliarp
angle; on each fide of the valves in the fweep of the arch are 8 round, and 8 fluted
pilalters, 6! feet high, adorned with a chapiter, from which arife 16 pilafters that meet
in the key of the arch. Each valve of the door was 5 feet broad, and about 10 feet
high. To yield light to this large building, befides the great windows ia xhi porti-
cos, and a row of windows jn the wall above, each 6 feet high, there was above the
gate a window of an acute angled arch 1 9 feet broad in bale, and 27 ia height ; and
in the eaft end between the turrets, a row of five parallel ^vindows, each 2 foot broad
and o high ; above thefe five more each 7 feet high, and over thefe a circular win-
dow near 10 feet diameter: the grand gate, the winllows, the pidars, the projedlntr
table, pedeflals, cordons, are adorned with foliai;e, grapes, and other carviUj^s. I'he
traverle, in length as above, feems to have been built by the families of Dunbar and
Innes, for the north part of it is called the Dunbar's ifle, and the fouth part the lanes'
ifle.

s 2 The

1^2

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

The chaptor-houfo, in which the bifliop's privy council met, ftands on the north
fide of the choir : it is a curious piece of .uchitechirc, couimuniciiting with the choir
by a vaulted vcftry. The houfe is an exatt oda.^on, 34 leet high, and the diagonal
breadth within walls 37 feet : it is ahnort a cube arched antl vaulted at top, and the
whole arched roof fupportcd by one pillar in the centre of the houfe. Arched pillars
from every angle terminated in the grand pillar, which is 9 feet in circumference,
crufted over with 16 pilafters, and 24 ieet high ; adorned with a cliapiter from which
arife round pillars that Ipread along tlie roof, and join at top ; and round the chapiter
are engraven the arms of feveral bilhops. There is a large window in each of the feven
fides, the eighth fide communicating, as was faid, with the choir; and in the north
wall are five ftalls cut in nitches for the bifliop's miniiters of (late, viz. the dean,
chapter, archdeacon, chancellor, and treafurer, the dean's flail raifcd a ftep higher than
the other four. This ftrufture of the cathedral came to decay in the manner follow-
ing : viz. The Regent Earl of Murray being obliged to levy fome forces, and being
flraitened in money, appointed by his privy council February 14, 1567, 8, the fherifts
of Aberdeen and Alurray, with other gentlemen, to take the lead, thatch or covering
off the cathedrals of Aberdeen and Murray, and to fell it for paying the troops, which
was done, and fhipped for Holland ; but the fhip foon after launched in the fea, funk
with the lead, which it is thought was done by a fuperftitious Roman catholic who was
captain of it. Of this whole edifice, the chapter- houfe, the walls of the choir, the
weftern fteeples, and the eaflern turrets remain as yet entire, but the fide walls of
the nave and the traverfe, are moft part fallen, and Peace Sunday, an. 17 1 1, the great
tower or fteeple in the middle fell from the foundation.

The cathedral ftood within the precinft of the college, near the river fide of Loffey :
this precind was walled round with a ftrong (lone wall, and was about 1 000 yards in
circumference, a part of the walls fl.ill remains entire ; it had four gates, every one of
which probably had (as is apparent the eaflern had) an iron gate, a portcullis, and a
porter's lodge: within the prccind the dignified clergy and all the canons had houfes
and gardens, and without the prccinft, towards the town of Elgin, there was a fmall
burrow with a crofs, where the churchmen purchafed their provifions. The bifliop's
palace flood at Spynie a large mile from Elgin ; when it flood entire, it was the moll
ilately I have feen in any diocefe in Scotland. The area of the buildings was an ob-
long fquare of 60 yards ; in the fouth-wefl corner ftood a ftrong tower vaulted, thg
wall 9 feet thick, with an eafy winding ftair-cafe, a capc-houfe at top, with a battlement
round. In the other three coiuers are fmall towers with narrow rooms. In the fouth
fido of the area, there was a chapel and tennis-court ; and in other parts were flables
and all neccfTary offices. The gate or entry was in the middle of the caft wall, fe-
cured by an iron grate and a portcullis ; over the gate (land tlio arms of bifliop John
Innes and the initial letters of his name, which allbrds a conjccluro that he was tlio firll
who built any part of this court. Around the palace was a fpacious precinct, with
gardens, and walks, and which now i-ay twelve pounds ftcrling to the crown. The
lands ui Spynie and the precinct were ^ranteil by the crown to one gentleman after
another tiii the revolution, aiul llnce that titno, the prccincl conti'iues in the crown,
and the lands belong to Mr. Brodie of Spynie, now of Brodi^- ; but the iron grate,
the roof, the joifls, and all the timber-work were carrieil oflby the former lefTees, and
now all is in decay.

The diocefe ot Murray comprifed the counties of Murray and Nairn, and the great-
eft part of the couuties of Banili and Invcincd-, aud had fifty-fix palloral charges.

)2 What

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

133

crown,
grate,
cs, and

What the revenue of this bifhoprick was before the reformation cannot now be well
known ; for Patrick Hepburn, the laft popifti bifliop, fewed and fold at leall a third
part of the lands of the bifhoprick, including what he was obliged to give to the Re-
gent of Scotland, an. 1568, for harbouring his intercom muned uncle James Earl of
Bothvvell, who married our unfortunate Q. Mary, an. 1563, when an account of all
tiignified clergy's revenues was called in by the parliament, the revenues of the bi-
Ihoprick of Murray, as then given up^ were as follows: viz. In money, 16461. 7s. yd,
Scots; wheat 10 bolls; barley, 77 chalders, 6 bolls, 3 firlots, and 2 pecks; oats, 2
chalders, 8 bolls; falmon, 8 lalts ; poultry, 223. Befides the emoluments of the
regality of Spynie, and of the commiflaries of Spynie and Invernefs, and the great teinds
of the parifh of Elgin, and of St. Andrew's in Murray, Ogflon, Laggon, and the
biHiop's fhare of t'lo revenues of the common kirks.

The only abby we had was at Kinlofs, which ftood in what is now called the parifh
of that name. It was founded by K. David I. lo""" kal. Januarii, an. 1 1 50. The abbot
was mitred, and had a feat in parliament ; the monks were of the Cillercian order,
called Monachi Albi. K. David endowed it, as did K. William, with many lands.
Afelinus was the firfl abbot, and Robert Reid was the laft. The revenues of the
abby, an. 1561, were found to 'ie, in money, 1152I. is. od. Scots; barley and meal,
47 chalders, 1 1 bolls, i firlot, and 3 pecks ; oats 10 bolls, 3 firlots ; wedders, ,74 ;
geefe, 41 ; capons, 60 ; and poultry, 125. The abbot had a regality within the abby
lands ; Mr. Edward Bruce was made commendator, and afterwards lord of Kinlofs,
an. 1 604 ; from whom Alexander Brodie of Lethen purchafed the lands of Kinlofs,
and the fuperiority of the other abby lands. The ruins of the building are fo Imall,
that it cannot be known what it was when entire; for an. 1651 and 1652, the ftones
of it were fold, and carried to build Cromwell's fort at Invernefs, and nothing now
remains but confufed ruins.

The oldefl priory wc had in this province was at Urquhart, three miles eaft of Elgin.
It was founded by K. David I. an. 1 125, in honour of the Trinity. It was a cell of
Dumfermline with Benedidine monks. K. David endowed it liberally. The revenues
thereof were not given up in an. 1 563, and fo I can give no account of them. The
prioi y lands were ercded into a regality, but no veftige of the buildings now remains.
In 1565, Alexander Selon was made commendator, and 1591, created Lord Urquhart,
and an. 1605 Earl of Dumfermline; but the honours being forfeited in 1690, Sctoii
of Barns claimed the lordfhip, and about an. 1730 it was purchafed by the family of
Gordon.

The next priory was at Plufcarden, founded hy K. Alexander II. an. 1230, and
named Vallis Saudi Aiidra. It was planted by Ahnacbi VciUis Cauliiim. None but the
prior an J p'-ocurator were allowed to go without the precind ; the monks becoming
vicious were expelled, and other monks brought from Dumfermline. The lands of
this priory were very confiderable, ami they had a grangia and a cell of monks at
Gianf^e-hill. The revenue of this priory, given up an. 1563, was in money

525I. 10s. »|d. Scots

-7
pnory,

wheat, I chalder, 1 boll, 2 firlots; malt, meal, and barley,

51 chalders, 4 bolls, 3 firlots, i peck; oats, 5 chalders, 13 bolls; dry multures, 9

chalders, 1 1 bolls ; falmon, 30 lafls. The buildings ftood four miles S. W. from the

town of I'llgin, in a warm valley called the glen of Plufcarden. The walls of the pre*

cind make a large fquare, and are pretty entire. The church ftands about the middle

of the fquare, a fine edifice in the form of a crofs, with a fquare tower, all of hewen

afhlar. The oratory and reft ^tory join to the fouth end of the church, under which is

the dormiicry. The chapter-houle is of curious work, an odagonal cube, vaulted roofs

fupported

•m

»34

PENNANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

fupported by one pillar, all as yet entire. They haa a rcgAlity in the priory lands and a
liillina regality in Grantre-hill, callctl the regality of Stanelorenoon. At the refdvina-
tion Sir Alexander Scton was, An. i cCj, made conimendator. The Ir.nds of Philcar-
den and Old Milnsnear Elgin paffed "through feveral hands, and are now the property
of James Earl of Fife.

The third priory was at Kingufic, founded by George Earl of Hnntly, about an.
1490. Of what order the monks were, or what were the revenues of tl>e priory, 1
liave not learned. The few lands belonging to it being the donation of the family of
lluntly, were at the reformation re-ail"umed by them, and continueto be their property.

There were iikewife within this province feveral convents of religious onlrrs. In
the town of Elgin were Grey Friars, Black Friars, Red Friars, Templars Houfcs, and
a Nunnery of the religioiis of St. Catherine of Sienna. Ihere were other convents at
Forrers and Invcrnefs.

Clofe bv the town of Elgin flood the praiccptory of Maifon-Divu. It was a hofp'lal
for entertaining ftrangirs, and maintaining poor infirm people. The buildings are
now gone to ruins. They had confiderttble lands in the pariflies of Elgin, Lauhride,
Knockando, and Dundurkus, all which were by King James VI. and Charles I.
.granted to the town of Elgin, and now hold few of thciii.

In this province we had four royal forts; the fird flood on a round hill that over-
looks the town of Elgin ; and fome of the walls, all of run lime, do as ytt remain.
The Earls of Murray llnce the year 1313 were condables of it, and had confiderable
lands for their falary. Their office continued till 1748, when heritable offices were an-
ncxed to the crown, and now they have no more but the hill called Lady hill, which
yields a fmall rent annually. Another fort flood in the town of Nairn, but no veftiges
of it now remain. Mr. Campbell of Calder (and formerly the Thanes of that ilk) was
conllablc, and in 1748 was paid a compcnfation for that office. The third fort was at
Invernefs, of which the Earls of Rofs were formerly conflables ; and after their for-
feiture, the Earl of lluntly obtained the office of conflable, with very confiderable
lands as a l.ilry, and continued to be conftable till 1629. I need not here fpeak of
Cromweirs i(>rt at Invernels, of which no doubt oth( rs will give a full account. The
fourth fort was at Uiquhart, on the well-fide of Loch-Nefs : ihe buildings were pretty
large, and in a gnat part as yet fland. In the time of David II. Alexander lioes was
governor of this ioit; afterwards, Chifolm of that ilk was governor : but fincc the
niiildle of the fiflet-nth century I do net find it had any governor, and now the lands of
Urquhart are the property of Sir Ludowick Grant of Grant. liefides thefe forts we
had many old cadi- s within this province commonly called Fortalicia. One Hood at
Duflus, thice miles north of Elgin, and was the feat of the chief of the Moravienfes as
early as the ilevinih century. The caflle flood on a green mote, on the bank of the
lochof Spynie: it was a icjuare, the wall about zo feel high, and 5 feet thick, with a
parapet, a ditch, and a draw bridge: within the fquare were buildings of timber for ac-
coinniovlating the family, and alio necciVary offices. The walls are as yet pretty entire.
Such Fortahces were alfo at Balveny in the parifli of Murtlich, at Abcrnethy in that
parifh, at L' chin. 'orb in the parifh of Croniuil, at Ract in Nairn parifh, and at Ruthven
in Kinufie paiiih. All which were large iquarcs, and many rooms built with timber
within the walls.

I fliall give no account of the modern forts of Fort George at Arderfiiir, or Fort
Augulius'at the fouth end of Loch-Nefs, and fhall only dcfcribe a promontory in the
parilhof Dull'us, four miks from I'.igin. Our hiltoriarus call it Burgus, it juts into the
frith, and riles abov« low water about fixtcen yards. To the well and north it is a per-
pendicular

pennant's tour in SCOTLANPi

»35

lant^s and a
iie rc'tovnia-
iofPlulcar-
lie property

, about an.
lie priory, 1
lie family of
•ir property.

orileis. Ill
Houres, and

convents at

'as a hofpUal
niildings are
1, Lau bride,
i Charles I.

liil that ovcr-
; ytt remain,
confiderable
Ices were an-
ly hill, which
jt no veftiges
that ilk) was
^1 fort was at
tcr their for-
confiderable
here fpeak of
count. The
s were pretty
dtr lioes was
ut (Ince the
e lands of
fe forts we
One rtood at
oravienfes as
bank of the
thick, with a
imber for ac-
reUy entire,
thy in that
at Ruthven
with timber

fair, or Fort
Mitory in the
juts into the
"th it is a per-
pendicular

Ivti

lel

pendicular rock, to the eaft the afcent is ftcep but grafly, to the fouth towards land the
afcent is more cafy. The area on the top is near a re<^angular figure, in length about
loo yards, and in breadth about 50. Alter the Danes had defeated the Scots army at
Forres about an. 1008, they lent for their wives and children, and made this promon-
tory an afyluin to them and a place of arms. It was at top furrounded with a ftrong
rampart of oaken logs, of \s hich fome are as yet digged up : by a trench cut on the
fouth fide they brought the fea round the promontory, and within this, had other
trenches, and they fortified it to the eall. The trenches are now filled up. After the
battle of Mortlich in the year loio, the Danes abandoned it, and left the country of'
Murray. To return.

(17.) Coluniba Dunbar fucceeded, and died An. t4;^5.

(18.) John Wincherter, L. J5. and chaplain to King James II. was confecrated 1438,
and died 1458. In 1452, the King ereded the town of Spynie into a free burgh of.
barony, and ereded all the lands of the bifhoprick into the regality of Spynie.

(19.) James Stewart, dean, confecrated 1458, died an. 1460.

(20. ^ David Stewart, parfon of Spynie, fucceeded in 1461, built the high tower of
the palace, and died an. 1475.

(21.) William Tulloch, tranflated from Orkney, an. 1477, was Lord Privy Seal)
and died 14S2.

(22.) Andrew Stewart, dean of Murray and Privy Seal, fucceeded an. 1483, and
died 1498.

(23.) /ndrewForman,commendator of Dry Burgh, fucceeded an. 150 1, and was
tranflated to St. Andrew's an. 1514.

(24.) James Hepburn fucceeded, and died an. 1524.

(25.) Robert Shaw, fon of Sauchy, and abbot of Paifly, was confecrated 1525,
and died 1528.

(26.) Alexander Stewart, fon of the Duke of Albany, fucceeded, and died an.

*535-

(27.) Patrick Hepburn, uncle to James Earl of Bothwell, and commendator of

Scoon, was confecrated an. 1537. He dilapidated, fewed, or let in long leafes a great

part of the church lands, and died An. 1573, on the 20th June.

I have feen feveral catalogues of the popifh bifliops of Murray, both printed and nianu-

fcript, but all imperfcdl ; comparing thefe with the writings of Sir James Dalrymple,

Sir Robert Sibbald, Bifliop Keith the chartulary of Murray, and the chronicle of Mel

Rofs, the above catalogue may 1 1. nk be depended upon. To return to the quaeries.

XIV. There are in this proviii 0 nianufcript hiftories of feveial families, which
might be of fomc fervice in compilui., a general hiftory ; as of the families of Dunbar,
Innes, Brodie, Calder, Kilravock, M'lntofh, and Grant. With regard to ancient
weapons, I have feen in the houfe of Grant, of Kilravock, and in other houfes, fteel
helmets, habergeons, and coats of mail, and of buff leather. Adder ftones, glafs beads,
&c. are but amulets not worth regarding,

XV. I know not one pidure worth regarding, except a picture of the Virgin Mary
in the houfe of CafUe Grant.

XVI. No battle in the parifli of Elgin, but many within this province, as at Forres,
about an. loo-i, betwixt the Scots and Danes ; at Mortlich, an. to 10, between tht;
fame; at Spi y-mouth, an. IC78, the King againft the Moravienfes ; again an. iii(3,
againil the fame people; and, an. 1160, on the Muir of Urquhart, King Malcolm
IV. againft the fame Mi)ravienfes ; at Cleanlochlochie, an. 1544, betwixt the Frazers
and M'Donalds; at Gltnlivot, an. 1594, the King againft the Earls of Huntly,

Errol,

1S5

PfNNAIrt^'s TOUR W SCOTLANU.

Trrol, and Angus; at Auldern, an. 1645, the covenanters againfl: Montrofe ; at
Ci-omdel, an. 1690, the Kings troops againft the Highlanders and at CuUoden, an.
1745, the Duke of Cumberland againfl the rebels.

XVII. Druidifm having been the form of religion in this country before Chriftianity,
the people Itill retain fome fupcrllitious cultoms of that Pagan religion. As Bel-tien :
on the-firft of May the herds of feveral farms gather dry wood, put fire to it, and dance
three times foutnways about the pile. In the middle of June farmers go round their
grounds with burning torches in memory of the Ccrealia. On Hallow even they have
icveral fuperftitious cuftoms. At the full moon in March, they cut withes of the mifle*
too or ivy, make circles of them, keep them all year, and pretend to cure hcdicks and
other troubles by them. And at marriages and baptifms they make a proceflion around
the church, Deafoil, i. e. funways, becaufe the fun was the immediate object of the
Druids' worfliip.

XVIII. Their fports are hunting, firing at marks, foot-ball, club-ball, &c. And the
only annual feflival they obferve is Chrillmas ; fpent more as the Saturnalia were of
old, than as Chrift's birth ought to be.

XIX. We have no true marie in this country, nor any albeftus : but we have granite,
talcum, lapis fpecularis, and at Stadtfield within four miles of Elgin there was lately
found lead ore, and in Glen-garry they have for feveral years had an iron forge and
made pigs of iron ; likewife about 40 years ago, a company from England fet up a mill
and forge for iron in Abcrnethy in Strathfpey, and made very good bars of iron, but
through their own extravagance they abandoned it. There is through all this province
great plenty of iron ore. I have often feen the ignis fatuus, which is a piece of rotten
birch wood, lying in a mire, and fliining in a dark night, like a flame of firs : likewife
ignis lambens, which is an unduous vapour falling upon a man's wig, or mane of a
liorfe, which fhincs bright, but by a flight rub it is cxtinguiflied.

XX. Great plenty of the particulars in the loth qu;vry may be found on the fea
coad in this province, if any will take the trouble to colleft them.

XXI. I know no fpccics of wood remarkable, and peculiar to this province, except
Red Slaugh, or fallow, which is no Icfs beautiful than mahogany, and is much more
firm and tough, and not fo brittle ; it receives a fine polifh, and in colour refembles
light-coloured mahogany ; it grows in rocks, and is very rare. But we have great
forefts of firs and birches: and as the Grampian hills divide in Athol into one branch
running northward, and another eallward ; in the former branch are great woods of
fir and birch in Breadalbane, Rannoch, Strathfpey, Badenoch, Glen-morifton, Strath-
plafs, and Strath-carron in Sutherlunti ; and in the other branch are fuch foreflf in
Brae-mor, Glcn-Muik, Glen-t;'.nner, &c. I am inclined to think that thefe are the re-
mains of the anciei;t Sylva Caledonia. Afiiong other vctegablcs, we have in great
plenty, in the heaths and wo(jJs, tlic following berries, viz. wild ndps, wild flrawber-
ries, blueberries, biigbcrries, uva urfa, &c. And we have one root I cannot but take
notico of, which wc call Carmele : it is a root that grows in heaths and birch woods to
the bignefs of a large nut, and fomeliine.s four or five roots joined by fibres ; it bears a
grein llalk, and a fr.iall nd tlowcr. I)io, fpeaking of the Caledonians, fays, " Certum
cibi genus parant ad omnia, qiioni fi ccperint quautiim e(t unius fabiu magnitiido,
minime rliirire aut fitire fokrit." C'a-far de Ikl, Civ. lib. 3'". vvritus, that VaUriiis's
foldicrs found a root called Chara, " quod adniifUun lade multam inopiani levebat, id
ad riiiiiliiudini.ni p-.mLs cflicic bam." I am inclintd to think that our Carmele 1 i. e.
Iweet root) is Dio's Cil)i genus, and Cicfar's C.hara : I have often feen it dried, and kept
forjourn-ys through hills wlicre no provifions could be had : I have likewife feen it

poundjsd

P£nnai;t*s tour m Scotland.

Montrofe ; at
Culloden, an.

re Chriftianity,
As Bel-ticn :
o it, and dance
50 round their
5vcn they have
esof the mifle*
re hedicks and
)ceflion around
; object of the

&c. And the
irnalia were of

e have granite,
here was lately
iron forge and
ad fet up a mill
rs of iron, but
ill this province
piece of rotten
~ firs : likewife
or mane of a

nd on the fea

rovince, except
is much more
lour refembles
we have great
ito one branch
^reat woods of
iriflon, Strath-
fuch forefls in
lefe are the re-
have in great
wild ftrawber-
:annot but take
birch woods to
res ; it bears a
ns, " Cerium
ba; magnitiido,
that Valrriiis's
iani levcbar, id
Carmelc 1 i. e.
lied, and kept
ike wife feen it
poundjed

;4
•I

pounded and infuft-d, and when yefl or barm is put to it, it ferments, and mnkos a II-
c]uor more agreeab'f and wholefomc than mead. It j;rows lb plentifully, that a C-irt
load of it can eafily be gathered, and the drink of it is very balfainic.

XXII. Sea fowl in this p' ovincc rcfort in winter to lakes and lochs, as loch of 8pynip,
I och-Nefs, Loch Nadorb, kc. Eagles and falcons breed in high rock;; an.i iiiaccciiiblG
mountains, as Scorgave in Rothemurchus. Tiicre are fome fpccies of fowl-;, if not
peculiar to this province, at lead rare in other countries: fuch as, tlic Capeikyly, as
large as the domellick turkey ; it frequents the fir woods, and perchts in the top of
very tall trees, but the hen breeds in the heath. Another fowl is the black c>- ck,
which I'requerits birch woods in hills, is of the lizc of a capon, of a fliining blue colour :
it is by fome authors called Gailus Scoticanus. A third fowl is tarmagan, of the fize of
a partridge, haunts the high rocky hills, is of a colour Ipotted brown and white. Thefe
three fowls are very harmlcls, and make delicious food.

N. B. In anfwering quEcry IV. it is omitted that our natural pliyficlans, when they
find a toe or finger hurt, and beginning to corrupt, they (liike it olT with a chifTei and
fere the wound with a hot iron, and foon cure it Iiirtead of bleeding by lancets, they
fcL ly the flefli about the ancle, and they take blood from the nafal vein by cleaving the
quill of a hen and binding it into four branches, and fcarifying the nollrih thereby.
For vomits, they ufe a decodion of groundfill, of the bark of ihe fervice tree, and a
decoction of Ilolborn faugh ; and for purgatives, the decoftion of fervice hark and a
decoction of mugwort boiled in new whey. In anfwering quarry I. I omitted to fay,
that the river of Bewly was anciently called Farar : it rifes in the hills towards Glenelg,
and runs through Glrnftrathfarar ; and I am inclined to think that in Ptolemy's Geo-
graphical Tables the Murray frith is called ^ftuarium Vararis from the riv(T Farar
(changing the F into V) that falls into the head of it. And the river was called Bewly,
when An. 1236, a priory of the monks Vallis Caulium was fettled there, who called
their feat Beaulicu, i. e. Bello loco j and then the old name of Farar was difcontinucd
except among the Highlanders.

APPENDIX— Number III.
The Life of James Crichton, of Cliinic^Kommonly called the Admirable Crichton *.

THIS gentleman was defcended from a very ancient family ; his father Robert
Crichton of Clunie and Elicok, was one of thofe who commanded Queen Mary's army
at the battle of Langfide in the year 1568. He was born at Clunie t, his paternal in-
heritance, in the (hire of Perth, in the year 1551. He was taught his grammar at the
fchool of Perth, and his philoibphy at the univerfity of St. Andrews J under Mr,

* This compilation was fome years apo printed at Abcideen. I have had opportunity of comparing It
with mod of the aisthorkie? quoted in fupport of the liillory of fo extraordinary a perfon, and find tlitm
i:ftd witli jiuigiiunt and fidelity. Exctptirg t few notcf--, 1 prcfent it to the readers in the ftate I found It :
and fliall only acquaint them that the liie uf this glory of North Britain may be found in the 1 1 11 number
of the Adve.iturtr, treiucd In a more elegant, but tar lefs comprehenfive manner.

f Tlic prefent honfc of Clunie ftands in an ifland in a lake of the fame nnme.

, . ..V f.iv>v". ..v.i..^ .,. »_.i...... •.^■.M.i ... .... ...M..« ... .. ...„^ ... w,^ .»nie nnme. But tlie old houfe or caftle

;ood on one fide of the water : anil its place is dillinguifiied by nothing but a mound and imperfift moat.
X Vid. Aid. Mannt. Epill. Dtd. I'aiadox. Ciccr; Did. Ctitiq. & Hillor. par M. Bayle ; Dempftcr
Hill. Ecclef p. 1876. Joan, imperials Muf. Ilillor. p. 241, Sir ThomaB Urquhart'3 Vindication of
tho Scots Nation, 5cc.

%■

VOI). III.

John

I '

138 pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

John Rutherford *. He hati hardly attained to the 20th year of his age, when he haj
run through the whole circle of the fcicnces, and could fpi-ak and write to perfeftion in
ten diillrent languages : but this was not all ; for he had Hkewife iniproved hinifelf to
the utuiolt degree in riding, dancing, linging, and phiying upon all forts of inltru-
luents.

HavintTthus cftablifiied hlmfelf at home, his parents fent him abroad to accomplifh
him further by travelling. And coming to Paris, it is not to be imagined what con-
fternation he raifed in that famous univerfity ; as we have it from an eye witnefs, who
gives us this account of it f : " There came," fays he, " to the college of Navarre, a
young man of 20 years of age, who was perfcftly well feen in all the fciences, as the
mofl learned mailers of the univerfity acknowledged : in vocal and inftrumental mufic
none could excel him, in painting and drawing in colours none could equal him ; in all
military feats he was moil expert, and could p!ay with the fword fo dexteroufly with
both his hands, that no man could fight him ; when he faw his enemy or antagoiiift, he
would throw himfelf upon him at one jump of 20 or 24 feet dillance : He was a mafter
of arts, and difputed with us in the fchools of the college upon medicine, the civil and
canon law, and theology ; and although we were above fifty in iiumber, befides aI>ove
three thoufand that were prefent ; fo fpointedly and learnedly he anfwered to all the
queftions that were propofed to him, that none but they that were prefent can believe
it. Ho fpake Latin, Greek, Hebrew, and other languages moll politely ; he was
likewife an excellent horfeman, and trucly if a man fhould live an hundred years with-
out eating, drinking, or fleeping, he could not attain to this man's knowledge, which
ftruck us with a panick ^ear ; lor he knew more than human nature could well bear ;
he overcame four of thedoftors of the church j for in learning none could contell with
him, and he was thought to be Antichrift."

Sir Thomas Urquhart of Cromarty giving an account of this difpute, fays, that
Crichton, when he came to Paris-, caufed fix programs on all the gates of the fchools
halls and colleges belonging to the univtrfity, and on all the pillars and pofls before
the houfes of the molt renowned men for literature iu the city, inviting all thofc
who were well verfed in any art or Icience, to difpute with him in the college of
Mavarre, that day fix weeks, by nine ol the clock in the morning, where he Ihouid at-
tend them, and be ready to anfwcr fo whatever fliould be proponed to him in ary art
or fcience, and in any of thcfe twelve languai^es, Hebrew, Syriack, Arabick, Greek
Latin, Spanilh, French, Italian, En^ilifh, i)utch, Flemifli or Sclavouian, and that either
in verfe or profe, at the difcr'.tion of the difputant ; and during all this time inltead of
making a clofe application to iiis (Indies, he minded nothing, but hunting, hawknig,
tilting, vauliing, riding of a well managed horfe, tolTing the pike,, handling the inuf'
ket, and other military feats, or in houio games, fuch as balls, concens of mufic vocal
and indrumeiital, cards, dice, tennis, and the other diverfions of youth ; which fo
provoked the ftudenis of the univeriity, that they caufed write beneath the program
that was tixt on the Soiboime gate, " If you woidd meet with this nionfler of perfec-
tion, to make fearch lor him either in tlie tavern or bawdy-houfo, is the readied way to
find him." Yei upon the day appointed he met with them in the college of Navarre,
and acquit himfelf beyond expreiliou ia that difpute, which lalted from nine till lix of

• M.liis call". . rich»on fiirt coiirin to ihr Kincf, and fays thai he wai educated along with hit Majelly
■nJii Caihan.iii, llfpburn, Kubcrifoii .unl Riitheiford.
-^ Stti'li. I'aLti. Diftj[ui(, lib. 5. cap. 23.

7 the

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

»39

the clock at night : At length, the Praefts having extolled him highly, for the many rare
and wonderful endowments that God and nature had bellowed upon him, lie rofe from
his chair, and accompanied by four of the moll eminent proft-ffors of the univerfity,
jjave him a diamond ring and a purfe full of gold, as a tediinony of their love and
favour, which ended with the acclamations and repeated huzzas of the fpcttators.
And eve'- .cr that he was called, the admirable Ciichton. And my author lays, that
he was fo little fatigued with that day's difpute, tliat the very next day he went to the
Louvre, where he had a match of lilting, an cxcrcife in great requelt in thofe diys,
and in the prefence of fome princes of the court of France, and a great many lailios,
he carried away the ring fifteen times on end, and broke as many lances on the Saracen.

The learned M. du Launy, in his hiflory of the college of Navarre, finding the Ijif-
tory of this difpute recorded in a MS. hillory of the college of Navarre, and the like
account of a Spaniard in Trithemius, confounds the two together, and robs our author
of the glory of this aftion, and places it in the year 1445, whereas it (liould bo in the
year 1571, as we have reafon to bulieve, from the authority of thufe that werecottm-
porary with him, and knew him, and have recorded this of him ; but we need not bs
furprized at M. du Launy's denying him the glory of this adion, when we find M.
Baiilct, another learned Frenchman, denying there ever was fuch a man as our author*,
notwithltanding that iAldus Manutius dedicates his book of Cicero's paradoxes to him
in the year 1581, and that the moft of the eminent men in Italy in that age were ac-
quainted with him, as we Ihall fliow in the remaining part of the hiftory of his life.
About two years after his difpute at Paris, Trajano Boccalini in his advertifements from
Parnaflus, tells us, that he came to Rome, Boccalini being then at Rome, himfclf, and
by a placard which he affixed upon all the eminent places of the city, he challenged all
the learned men in Rome, in the following terms, " Nos Jacobus Crichtonus Scotus,
cuicunque rei propofita; ex improvifo refptmdebimus." That is to fay, he was ready to
anfwer any queltion that could be propofed to him, without being previoufly advertifed
of it. Upon which the wits put a paper in Pafquin'sf hand, endeavouring to ridicule
him ; but that noways difcourav;ing him, he came at the time and place appointed by his
placard, and in the prefence of the pope, many cardinals, bilhops, doctors of divinity, and
profeflbrs in all the fnencos ; he gave fuch furprifing inftances of his univerfal know-
ledge, that they wi.re no lefs furprized with him, than they had been at Paris.

From Rome he goes to Venice, whore he contracted an intimate friendihip with
Aldus Manutius, Laurennius Maffa, Spcron Spcronius, and feveral other learned men,
to whom he prefented feveral poems in commendation of the city and univerfity, and
among the red, one to Aldus Manutius, which we have Hill extant in the Delitiai
Poctarum Scotorum |. This poem gave him a very agreeable furprize, being prefented
by a ftranger, whom he judged by the performance to be a perfon of an extraordinary
genius; but when he came to difcourfe with him, he wasdruck with admiration, and
finding him known in every thing, he brought him to the acquaintance of all the people
of learning of note that were in Venice, and all of them were fo furprized with him,
that they thought him, as he really was, the wonder of the world, and never fpokc of
him but with admiration ; at length being brought before the doge and fenate, he made

• Hia.de* Enf. Ctlcb.

f 'riic pafqiiinade w ,s to this cfTtt'^, written beneath the challenge. And he tiiat will fte it let Uim jjo
to the fij^ne of the Faiilcoii ar.d It (li ill hi; fhewn. This, fays Boccahiii, made fueli an iiiiprcnioti on Ciich-
ton, iliai iic Itft liie place whtie he wao fo grufly aiVroitU'd an to be put on a level with jugglers and mounte*
banks.

J Delitix Poet. Scot, ubi fupr».

T 2 . a hand.

lii"

140

PENKANT'S TOUR IN SCOTLAND,

a handfome fpocch to them, which being accompnnicd with all thL' frraroR and beau..
tifs of eloquence and nature • that appeared in his pcrfon in their utinnil hillre, he
received the thanks of the fenate, antl ntithin;^ was talked l[ir(uii.;h the whole city, but
of this prodigy of nature, llavini^ Hayed for Ibnie time at Venice, he went to I'adua to
vifitthc learned men that were at that fa:no is univerlity ; and he had no fooner arrived
there, but there was a meetinuj of all the learned men in the tity, in the hoiife of
Jacobus Moyfuis C'ornclius, to wait upon him, and coiiverfe with him : lie opened the
aflembly with an extemporary poem in ])raifc of tlu- city, univerfity, and the all'njlily
that had honoured i.'m with their prei'eiice at that time ; and alter lix hours ol' a dii'-
puto, which he fuftained a!:;ainft them, in whatever lliey coulil propofe to him in all tlio
fciences, he concluded with an extemporary oration in praile (.f i;;noranee, that /Vldus
Manutius \ fays that they all thought that they were in a dream, and ill it he had al-
inofl perfuaded them that it was better to be ignorant, than learned and wile. Some
time after tlu\ lie fixed a paper on the gates of St. John andSt. Paul's cluirches,
wherein he olFcred to prove b/lore the univerfity, that tliire was an infinite nu i.ber of
errors in i\rilli;tl 'y philofophy, which was then only in vogue, and in all his comnicn-
taries, botii in tb' olo;rical and nliilofophical matters, and to refute the dre.ims i.<f I'evtral
jnathcmaticians : lie likewifj made an oiler to difpute in all th.' fci.niees, ami t > anfwcr
to whatever fliould bo propofcd to him, or objected againit him, ( itlur in the common
logical way, or by numbers and mathematical figures, or in a hundred forts ol v^rfts as
they pleafed.

Aldus Manuliu'~% who was prcfcnt at this difpute, fays f, that he performed all that
he had promifed, to their greatell amazement : and he tells us likewil'c of another dif-
pute that he had before a great concourfe of people in the Biliuip of Ridua's houfe,
without mentioning the occafion or particulars of it ; but Joannes Iinperiilis tells us J,
that he was informed by his father, who was prefent at this difpute, that it was with one
Archangellns RIerceiurius, a famcnis philofoj)her, upon pIiiiofo|)hical liibjeds, in which
he acquitted hinifelf fo well, that his adverfary owned before the alfeinbly that he had
overcome him.

From Venice he went to Mantua ; at this time there w^s a gladiator at Idantna, who
had foiled in his travels the moft famous flncers in I'.urope, and h.id lately killed iu
that city thi(>e perA^ns who had entered the lilLs with him ; the Duke of Mantua w,is
highly offended that he hatl granted this follow his preyteaion, flnce it had fuch a fatal
confeqnence: Criehton biing informeil of this, ollired his fervice to the DnU •, to rid
not only his doniiiiifjns, but Italy of this mnnheier, and to fight him for fif ee i hun-
dred ])iil:e.lrs : thiuigh the Duke watj unwilling to expole fiich a fine g-ntle. an as our
author, to fuch a hazard, yet relying upon the report of his |K'rfornianees mall war-
like atchiev.ments, it was agreed to ; and the time a!id place being appointed, the
vhole cuurt were witnefsto the performance. In the bepiniiing of the c(<mbai, Crieh-
ton was upon rhe deK'iilive, and the If liaii attack .d him with liuh vi • .ur and cager-
nefs, that he fegan tog.-ow laint, having over-acted himllb ; then out luthor attacked
him with fuch dexterity and vii;our, that he run him th' ■ igh the body in three dif-
ferent places, of which he imnudiately died. Ihj luizi..i.s .uid acclamations of the
fpcQators were extraordinary U|-.)n tliis occfioii, and ,:il (-fil.em ;.clcnowledged, that
they lial titvcr fei:n ait, grace, n r lufiie leco; d tin.' pieci'pts of art with lb
much livclinefs as they had leen li.ai day ; and t crown tnc glOiV of this a.iion.

.1 uLifiii-ra. i M.!n "....,. I'.xf, lu Ci'c.r. J'ar.id.

§ Uoiliipra.

Criehton

ami boau"
liiltrc, he
)1l' city, but
to Pail u A to
mor arrivL'J
ic hoiife ot
()|)cncd ilie
!k" iilV'mlily
iirs ol" a ilii-
m in all llio
that AKlus
: lie had al-
i-il't'. SoniL*
's chiiri;lics,
L' iiu ibei* of
lis coinnicn-
ns urievtr.il
id t ) aiil'vvcr
the common
; ol writs as

•mcd all that
another dif-
idua's hoiil'i.',
ilis tolls us J,
was with one
ds, in which
that ho had

.lantna, who

l( ly kilii'd in

Mantua w,is

liicli a iatal

Duk ', to rid

til ee \ hiin-

(.'. an as our

IS ni all war-

)ointod, the

nibai, Crich-

ir and cagcr-

thor attackoJ

in three dif-

itions ol the

wk'dv^od, that

lit with lb

[' this a^iion.

Crlchton

PENNANT'S TOUR IN «COTLANly,

141

Cricliton beftnwoci tho prize of his viftory upon the widows who had lofl tiieir huf-
bands in ri;.';htinj; with this gladiator.

Th'Te nnil his oth'jr wonderful perforniances, moved the Duke of Mantua to niakc
choice of him for preci-ptor to his Ion Vincent de Gonza;.^ua, a prince or a riotous temper
and dilfolutu life. 'I'he > mirt was hi,i;hly pleafed with tlie Duke's rhoicc, and for their di-
vei (ion ho compofed a comcdv, wherein he eApofed and riiliculed • all the wcaknefl'-s and
failures of the leveral I'liiployments that men betake themfelves to ; which was looked
upon as one of tho moll ingenious fatires iliat ever was made upon mankind ; but that
which was moll w oiiderful and adonifliing was, that ho himfelf perfonated the divine,
philofoplver, lawyer, mathematician, i)hylician, and foldier, with fuch an inimitable
grace, that every time he appeared upon the theatre, he feemed to be a ditferent per-
liu ; but from being the prmcipal ador of a coineily, h? became the wofiil fubject of a
molt lamentable trageily, being mo!l barbaroully murlhcred by his pupil, which hap-
pened tnus :

One night as lie was walking along the firects in the time of the carnarval, and play-
ing upon his guittare, ho was attacked by half a dozen people in ma Iks ; but
they found that they had not an ordinary perfon to deal with, for they were not able to
fhuul their ground againll him, and having difarmed the principal perfon amonglt
them, ho pulled oil' iiis malk, and begged his life, telling him, that h(" was the Prince
his pupil, ("richton, who innnidiately knew him, fell down upon his knees, and told
him that he was fony for his millake, and that what he had done was only in his own
defence, and that if he had any defign upon his life, he might always be mailer of it ;
and then taking his own fword by the point, he prefented him with it ; which the prince
taking in his hand, and not being able to overcome his pairion for the alFront that
he tlicnght he had ludaincd, in being foiled »*ith all his attendants, he immediately
run him through the heart.

What moved the prince to this' ungenerous and br.ital adtion, is varioufly conicc-
tured J for fome thiiik it was joaloufy, fufpecHng that he was more in favours with a
young lady whom he paflionaitly loved than he was. Others fay, that it was only to
try his valmir, and th • efledl of a drunken ramble ; but whatever was the caufe of it,
*tis certain that thus he diet!, in i!ie beginning of the month of July, in the year 1583,
in the thirty-fecond year of his age, or, as Imperialis fays, in the twenty-fecon*'..

• The unliappy t ITeol iliat ili!s luinunir liad on two niaiMs of lionour is admirably told b< Sir Tliomai;
Ui'iulnrt, a fiCDii'l Rabclaii, aiicl l,tll traiflitor of th.it I'xtiuvngniit author.

" They hcaid in him alone tlic (-roinilnKH' f. ecth of fifteen li veial adlors, by the variom r.ivifii-
m- .1.4 ot (he txc'tllenclcs whereof, in the lioin kiiefs of a jocund I'raine he\uiid exjieiitaiioii, the lo^o.
f leinated fpirits ot llu- b-.h iklin,; hearers a ;J ,i iricnlaie fpcdlitors, were fo on a fii hltii fca/ed upon iii
t leir ril'ililc (acuities of the loui and all their vital motions io univerfally aflefted in this extremity ..( agi-
taiioM, that to avoi<l the inevi'abltf ciiaiir.s ol h's intuxle.itinij tjaculalioi.s, and the aeeumidative iiifliieiicea
ot Io powerful a tranlpoitati.,n. one (4 my L.!c;y Diitchels chiet maids of honour, hv tile vtl'.i.ineueie oflhc
fl\..( k (t th> fe imcompiihenlitk rapt iires bin ll foith into a Iaui;hier, to tiie rupture of a veinc in lier ' ody ;
a;'.cl another yonujT l.idy, hv the ineli (able vi')li'nee ol the plealure U!iavvarei> i;itufcd, where the tender re-
cepiibih''if of her too tiikhd laueie vas iell able to hold on' fo unprovidedly was I'urprifed tiiat,
wiili nolefu im' etuofitie of lid bund il p llli 'm the i (ai hath been ' ild) oceafioned a fra.Murc in the ot!ur
younjf iddie, Ihe, not able h)ngi.i i.> lui)pori ihe a' ',1 b. loved bu.v.^n of fo exciffive d(.h;;ht, and intraiifir.g
fuili joy» ot lueh Mcrcniial exliiliratioiw tiii(!,:^li ihe iindable cxtalie of an overmallcred apprvhenfi in, fell
b.nkiii fwooii, with >ut tlie iippenranec of .ii>y other life into her, then wlvat !)y the moll refined wit;i of
tViUih gical fptC'.ilatuib ia eoii.\ivid to be cx.i\e.l by the puiell pans of the feparated enieltcliies of bleiled
haiiil.'* in tiitir Ivbliniell converlationa wiih ti.e eelell lal hierarchies : thid accident piocured the ineomiii" of
an aj.'Oth taiic with rclloraiivtij, as the odicr did ih a ot a lurijcoii with conl'oliilative niedicamcius."

ViiiJit.uion olihc hoiwur yf ocotl.iiid, fee. p. i j ij iia.

His

t4t PENNANT S TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

His death was extraordinarily l;imcnted by all the learned men In Europe, and from
thole Italian wii ors, who knew, and were coiiniporary with liiin, it is, lli;if I have
molt o[ all that 1 have faid oi him. Joannes Iniperialis, a dodor o^ tiu'dii.iae ol Viccnza
in Italy, who has wrote our author's lil'e, and who could not hut know the truth of all,
or niolk of wh;ir he has f.\id of hitn, fince he lived upon the placos in whicli they were
aded, and who had them from his father, who was an eye and ear witnrfs to them,
lays *, " That he was the wonder of the lill age, the prodigious proilutlion of nature,
the giory and ornament of I'arnalTus in a (lupendous and an unulual manner, and as
yet in the judgment of the loarngd world, the Phanix of literature, and rather a Ihining
particli; of the Divine Nature and Majelly, than a model of what human nature and in-
duilry can attain to. And what can be more," continues he 1, " above our compre-
heniion, than in the 2 ill yearot his age to be mailer of ten languages, and to beper-
fedly well feen in philofophy, niatluinaticks, theology, the belles-lettres, and all the
iitlitr fciences ; belides, was it ever heard of in the whole compafs of this globe, that
one with all this, Ihould be found expert to admiration, in fencing, dancing, finging,
riding, and the other exercifes of the gynniallick an ? Befules all this, he is faid to have
been one of the molt beautiful, and one of the hiindloMielt gentlemen the world ever
Jaw, fo that Nature had taken as much care .ibout his body, as (he had done about his
mind ; and inone word, he was the utmoft that njan could come to." M. Bayle fays|,
that he was one of the greatelt prodigies of wit that ever lived ; and Fa;lix Aftolfus
that he had fuch a prodigious memory § that he retained more books upon his mind, than
any of his age had read ; Plurcs libros memoritcr tcncbat qttam quifrjunm ca atatc kgcrat.

And Sir Thomas Urquhart of Cromarty, having infilled on all the particulars ^)f our
author's life in a fudian and bombaltical (train, tells us, that in the comedy which he
compofed, and was an a£lor in before the court of Mantua, in the fifth and Ia(t a6t,
he himfelf perfonated no lefs than thirteen different charadters of perfons and employ-
ments ill their diiTcrent habits.

And in his character of liim, he tells us, that he gained the cfteem of all kings and
princes, by his magnaninuty and knowledge ; of all nolijemen and gentlemen, by his
courtlinefs and bre;:(Jing : of all knights, by his honourable deportment and pregnancy
of wit ; of all the rich, by his affability and good fdlowniip ; of all the poor, by his
munificence and liticrality ; of all the old, by his conltaiKy and wildom ; of all the
young, by his mirth and gallantry ; ot[all the learned, by his univerfal knowledge ; of all
theloldieis, by his undaunted valour and courage; ot all the merchants and artificers,
by his upright dialing and honelty; and of all the (air lex, by his beauty and hand-
fomene!s ; in which refpeft, he was a malter-pieceof nature. " The reader," (ays he,
•' perhaps will think this wonderful, and fo would I too, were it not that 1 know as Sir
Phillip Sidney fays, that a wonder is no wonder in a wonderful fut)ject, antl confequent-
ly not in him, who for lis learning, judgment, v. lour, eloquence, be lUty and good
fellow (hip, was the perfecfcft rcfnlt of the joint labours of Pallas, Apollo, Mars, Mercury,
Venus and Bacchus, that harh \w n (incc the days of Alcibiades ; and he was reported to
have been enriched with a memory fo prodigious that any lernion, fpeech, harangue, or
other manner of dilcourfesof an hour's continuoiice he was able to recite' without hefi-
tation, after the fame manner of gedure and pronunciation in all points, wherewith it
was dehvcred at firil ; and of fo (lupindous a judgment, that nothing efcapcd his

• Miifxiir.i Hiftor. p. 241.

f Miilxiim Hiilur. Impcr. Joa. ibiJcm. Venitiis apud Juiita» 1650, in 410.

i Bib. Citt. \ Ofiiciiia Hid. p. 10,2.

knowledge :'*

MNNANT's TOtTR W SCOTLAND.

»41

.>»

knowlpjj^e •/* arnl for the truth of all this, he app.-als to a'love two thourand witncnVs^
that were IHII alive, and hail known hitn. Ami fptwUiiip; of his di.'.irh, whicl' hi.' attii-
biifos to :in amour, he tolls us that it was in tlio thirty. fcidnd year of his a^c ; that the
whole court went in mourning for iiiui ; that the epitaphs and cl<'j^ios that wtre com-
poled upon his death, if colleded, would exceed the bul\ ol Hnmer's works, and that
his pidure was dill to ho feen in the nvifl of the bcilcliam'iers and galleries of the
Italian nobility, reprolenting him upon horfeback, with a lance in one hand, and a
book in the other*.

Denipftcr, who was cotemporary with hlin, and a profcfTor of the civil law at Bono-
nia in Italy, agrees as to the inolk of what wc have faid of him ; but he tells usf. that
he, was for fome time at Geneva, as he was on his travels to Italy, and that they offered
him a conliderable lalary, if he would remain with them ; but that he refufed it, and
that no man offered to detrad from his jult praifes, but 'I'r.ijano Boccilini ; but that he
bu'ng a perfon of no erudition, it was rather a glory than any dil'grace upon him to be
fo :rcatcd by a pvrlon of his characlcr. Yet the lame Dempller l)lames our author
very much, not f^r his boalUng of the endowments of his mind, but for liis afRrmin)^
thai he was delccndeil from the royal family of Scotland Many po- "US and epitaphs
Wire compofed upon him, but I Hiall only infert that of our countryman. Dr. Joha.
Johnflon, in his hifcriptions upon heroes, wiio makes him die in the year 1581*

JACOBUS CRITONIUS CLUNIUS.

hlufarum pariter ne Mariii Alumnut, omnibus in fludii', ipfti itinm ItaVit ailmiralUis^
Mantus a Ducii Mantuani noSurnii infid.ii occifui tjt, anno CbriJIi 158 1.

VJV sciiuu et cenfum dat Sootia, Gdllia pcAui „
ExcoTit : admiraiis Itala terra viriim , -^

Ambit, et circ fiiiim vclitt ; gens sBmula vitatn
Ao.itilic ; an fati.< line dicat lit ilia iuiim
Mantua lubrt cinercH IccUis cxccrata ncfandum^
At tumuli tanto gaudet hunorc lamcn,

I have nothing of this author that is extant, bur two poems, one in praife of the city,
of Veiiii ,, u. d the other addrefled to Aldus M«uiutiu8 J, Both which arc in the firib
▼oIuHie of the Delitia Poctarum Scoticorum,

• The print given by Mr. Prnnant wai taken from a pifture In pofTeflion of Lord Elicok, Lord of
Srfliioiis, copii'd liDm an .)rigtnal tjclonging to Mr. Oraham nf Alrtli. I am fold that there is a very tine
poriiait of this celebrated ^crfdii the propcity of Mr. Monriloa of Bogny, which was fcnt from Italy by
Crichton a (hort time before he was killed O

t Hift Ecclef. Gen. Scot, ubi fiipr.i.

X Crichton replies to one of the Naiads of the Po, vho appeared to him on hii arrival at Venice >■

Fiiteor me, candide Nalaa,

Prointritiim qii5eciiri(|Me fero ; nee turpis cgeftai

Iiifaiidiirnve fcti ivi nua pet'iora vexat.

At me quia mittuiin magna co>;nofcit in tube

Aut ({UI9 ad xqtjureas flentem folatur arenas ? ^

The Naid dircfti hint to Aldus ;

Hunc pfte, namqiie regens filo veftigia caeca

D(r!gt.i ilU- tiius optato in tramite grcifus.

Iiidc via |)i iidct. Sequere hiiiic qiixcunqiie jubcnteifi; ,..^«

Sic te Diva nionct foevani qux Gorgona gedat, *

Q^ix plerumqiie tnis prcfcn* erit opiima votis.

Deaipfter

ii' i;''

144-

PENNANT Sv TOUR IN OCOTLAND.

Dempflcr gives us the foIlAwinpf catalogue of his works ; where it plainly appears,
that he makts three books out «)f that placard which he affixed upon the gates oi St,
John and St. Paul's churches in Padua.

The Catalogue of his Worh.

I. ODiE aJ La urcntiiim MafTam pliires.
II. Laudcs PataviiiiE Carmen ex'fiiiporo ifruf.im. cum in Jacob! Moyfii Cornclii dome experimentum
ingenii coram tola Acadctni* frcquentja noii fine niiiltorum llupore faceiet

III. Igiioralionis Laiidatio, txtcmpoialc 'I'licma iliidcm rccidltum poll fex horaiutii diTputationes, ut prac-

Icnics foninia potius foverc quam rem fc ver.im vldcrc "I'ii marint, ait Mauutius,

IV. De appulfii fuD Venttias. Delitiae I'oct. Scot. vol. i p 2()8.
V. Odx ad Alduin Maiuuium. Del. Poet, ticot. vol i p. 2O9.

.VI. EpiftoI.T ad Divenos.

VII. Prxfaiiones fulemnes in omnes fcitntias facras ct profanas.
VIII. Judicium de Fliilofopliis.

IX. Errorts Arillotclis.
X. Armis an Liti rse pra.(lant, Controverlia oratorja.

XI Rtfutalio Matliematicorum.
XII. AcomeUy iuthcltaliaalan^juage.

APPENDIX.— Number IV.

On the Murder of a Laird of Inncs, — As related in the old Account.

JOHN Lord INNES, having no children, fettles his eftate upon his next heir and
coufin Alexander innesof Cromy, and feems to iuffer him to tuijoy his title and pof-
feflions in his life time. Robert Innos of Innermarky, another catlet of the family, is
dilgullcd to fee Innes of Cromy endowed with lb much power and preferred to him.
He alarms Lord John, and makes him repent fo far of what he had done, that he joins
in confpiiacy with Innermarky to affalfmate his coufin Alexander. The author fay's,
" John being brought over to his minde, (viz. Mnu .s's of Innermarky,) there wanted
nothing but a conveiiiency for putting y' purpofe to execution, which did offer itfelf
in y' month of Aptyle 5S0, at w''' tyme Alex, being called upon fome bulinefs to .Aber-
deen, was obliged to llay longer there then he intended, by reafono that his only fone
Robert, a youth of 16 yeirs of age, had fallen fick at th • college, and hih fuller could
not leave the place untill he faw q became of him. He hade tranfported him out
of the old toune, and hade brought him to his own lodgeing in the new toune ;
he had alio fent kveral cf his lervaiits home from t\me to tyme to let his Lady know
the reafone of his itay, by means of thefe fervants it came to be known perfectly at
Kinnardy in q' circumllance AKxander was at Aberdeen, q' he was lodged, and how
he was attended, which invited Innermarky to take the occafione. Whe ofore getting
a confklirable number of ailillants with him, he hade Lain! John ryde to Aber-
deen: they enter tiie toun upon the night, and about middnight came to ^vlexander's
lodgeing.

" ll.e outer gate of the clofs they found oppen, but all the rell of the doors fhutt ;
they wer afndd to bi\ak up doors by vinlfnce, leall the nolle might alarm the neigh-
houiheed, but choifcd rather to ryle up Inch a try in the clols as might obleidge thole
wlio wer within to oppon the door and fee q it might be. The lends at that tyme
betwixt the family^ oi (Jordcne and Forbes wer not cxtinguiflied, therior they ryled

aery.

fi!

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

»4S

a cry, as if it had been upon fome outfall among thefe people, crying, * Help, a Gor-
don, a Gordon,' which is the gathering word of the friends of y' familie.

" Alexander, being deeply intereftcd in the Gordon, at the noife of tne cry ftarted
from his bedd, took his fword in his hand and opened a back door that led to y" court
below, ftept down three or four fteps, and cryed to know q' was the matter. Inner-
marky who by his word new him, and by his whytt fliirt decerned him perfeftly, cocks
his gun and ftiootts him througli the body in ane inliant, As many as could get
about hint fell upon him and butchered him barbaroufly. Inaermarky perceaveing in
the mean tyme y' Laird John (tood by, as either relenting or terrified, held the bloody
dagger to his throat that he Jiad newly taken out of the murthered body, fwearing
dreadfully y' he would ferve him the fame way if he did not as he did, and fo com-
pelled him c draw his dagger, and ftab it up to the hilts in the body of his neareft
relatione, and the braveft that boare his name. After his example all who wer ther
behooved to do the lyke, that all might be alyke guilty ; yea in profecutione of this, it
has been told me that Mr. John Innes, afterwards Coxtoune, being a youth than at
fchooU, was ryfed out of his bedd, and compelled by Innerrnarky to ftab a daggar unto
the dead body, that the more might be under the fame condemnatione ; a very crafty
cruelty.

** The next thing looked after was the deftru<Sione of the fick youth Robert, who
had lyein y' night in a bedd by his father, but upon the nqyfe of q' was done, hade
fcrambled from it, and by the help of one John of Culdreafons, or rather fome of the
people of the houfs, had got out at ane unfrequented bak door into the garden, and
from y' into a neighbour's houfs, q' he hade (haltered ; the Lord in his providence
preferveing him for the executing vengence upon thefe murthurers for the blood of
his father.

" Then Innerrnarky took the dead man's fignct ring, and fent it to his wife, as from
her hufband, by a fervant whom he had purchaled to that purpofe, orderinsr her to
fund him fuch a particular box q"'' contained the bond of tailie, and all y' hade fol-
lowed thereupon betwixt him and Laird John, whom the fervant faid he hade left
w' his m' at Aberdeen : and yt for difpatch he hade fent his belt hors with him, and
hade not taken loifure to writ, but lent the ring. Though it troubled the woman
much to receave fuch a blind meafage, yet her huftjand's ring, his own fervant and
his horfs, prevailed fo with her, togither with the man's importunity to be gone, that
fhee delivered to him q' he fought, and let him go.

" There happened to be then about the houfs a youth related to the family, who
was courious to go to the lenth of Aberdeen, and fee the young Laird who had been
fick, and to whom he was much addifted. This youth hade gone to the ftable to in-
terceed with .he fervant that he might carric iiim behind him, and his difcourfs hade
found the man under great reftraint and confufion of minde, fometiyme fayeing he
he was to go no further than Kinnardy (which indeed was the truth,) and at oy' limes
that he behooved to be immediately at Aberdeen.

" This brought him to be jealous, though he knew not q*, but further knowledge he
behoved to have, and therior he (tept out a little beyond the entry, watching the fer-
rant's comeing, and in the by-going fuddenly leapt on behind him, and would needs
either go alonges with him, or have fatisficing roalone, why he refufled him.

" The conteft became fuch betwixt thcni, that the fervant drew hisdurk to ridd him
of the youth's trouble, q'" the other wrung out of his hands, and down right killed
him w' it, and brought back the bos vi'^ the writs and horfs to the houfs of Innes (or
Croniio, 1 know not q''.)

VOL. 111. u « As

jvil

f it '■„

146

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

*' As the lady is in a confufione for q' had fallen out, thcr comes anoother of the fer-
vants from Aljerdcen, who gave ane account of the (laughter, fo that fhe behooved
to conclude a fpcciall hand of Providence to have betn in the firfl: pafage. Her next
courfs was to fecure her huiband's writs the bell: ihe could, and flee to her friends for
flialtcr, by whos means flie was brought w'all fpeed to the King, befor whom fhee
made her complaint. And q- is heir fet doun is holden by all men to be true matter
of faa.

" The Earl of Huntly imodiatly upon the report of the flaughter concerned himfelf
becaufs of his relatione to the dead, and looked out for his fon, whom he inflantly
carried to Edinburgh, and put him for (halter into the fjpiily of the Lord Elphinfloune,
at that tyme Lord High Treafurcr of the kingdome.

*• Innermarky and Laird John, after the flaughter, came back to the Lord Saltoun's
houfsj who lived then at Rothimay, and is thought to have been in the knowledge of
q' they had been about, for certain it is they wer fupported by the Abernethys, ay until
the law went againfl them. From Rothymay they went with a confiderable party of
horfs, and repofcelt Laird John in ail parts of the eftate of Innes. And Innermarky,
to make the full life of q' he hade fo boldly begun, did, upon the feventein Mali 1580,
which was 5 weeks after the flaughter, take from Laird John a new difpofitione of the
eftate of Innes.

" By what is faid, Innermarky may appeir to have been a man full of unrighteouf-
nefs, craft, and cruelty ; yet fome fay for alleviatione of his fad, that he having his
chiefF's favour, hade got the firfl difpofition of his eftate failieing airs of himfelf, but
that Cromy had taken a pofterior right and hade fupplanted Innermarky, for q'" he in
revenge had killed him, &c. But falfenefs of the allegance (mean as it is) is plaine
paft contradidion, froni the above narraitted writ, q'"" was given to Innermarky but
40 days after the flaughter of Cromy.

*' For two full yeirs Innermarky and John hade pofleft the eftate of Innes, ftrenthen-
ing themfelfs with all the friendftiip they could acquyre ; but being in end declared out
laws, in the 3* ycir Robert Laird of Innes, the fon of Alex', came north with a com-
miflion againft them and all others concerned in the flaughter of his fiither. This
Robert was a young man well endued w» favour and undcrftanding, which had ingaged
the Lord' Treafurer fo far to wedd his intereft, that he firii weded the young man to
his daughter, and then gote him all the afliftance rcquifit to poflefs him of his eftate,
q'^" was no fooner done but he led waft the poflTeflions of his enemies j burning and
blood ftied was aded by both partys with animoufly enough.

" In the mean tyme Laird John had run away to feek fome lurking place in the
fouth, q' he was difcovcred by the friends of the Lord Elphinftounc, and by them
taken and fent north to the Laird Robert, who did not put him to death, but took
him bound to various forts of performances, as appears by the contraft betwixt them
in anno 1585 : one grofs was, Vt that he rtiould deliver up the chartor chift, and all the
old evidents, q'*" he and Innermarky had leafed, and which I doubt if ever he faithfully
did, els this relation hade boon with tcfs pains and more fully inftruded.

" As to Innermarky, he was forced for a while to take the hills, and v%hen he wearied
of that, he hade a retreat of a difficult accels within the houfs of Edinglafly, q' he fleeped
in littii' enough fecurity ; for in September 1584, his houfs was furpryfed by Laird
Robert, and that retciring place of his firft entered by Alexander Innes, aftewards of
Cotts, the fame who fome yeirs before had KiHi-'d the fervant who came from Inner-
marky with the falfe tokin for y* writs, and v.'ho all his lyfe was called Craigg in pcirill,
fur venturing upon Innermarky then dcfperat, and whos cruelty he helped to repay

8 it

pennant's tour m Scotland.

«47

h In its own coinc ; there was no mercy for him, for flyin he '.vas, and his hoar head
cut off and taken by the widdow of him whom he hade flain, and carried to EJin-
burgh and caften at the King's foctt j a thing too mafcuiine to be commended in a

•woman.

APPENDIX. -Number V.

Of Caitbncfs, Slratbnavcr, and Sutherland.

Ey the Rev. Mr. Alexander Pope, Minifter of Reav.

AS the PiiSts poni;ff.'J the northern parts of Scotland of old, as they did the mofl:
fertile parts of the fouth, and were expelled in the year 839, we have very little of
their hiftory : what preferves the remembrance of that people is only the round build-
ings wherein they dwelt, of which there are numbers all over the north, particularly
Sutherland, Caithncfs, and Orkney.

It is obfervablc in thefe buildings, that there is no mortar of any kind, neither clay nor
lime ; nor had they any notion of calling an arch. They confifl: of the beft ftones they
could find, well laid and joined ; the wall was fometimcs fourteen feet thick, and the
great room, which was quite round, twenty two feet diameter; the perpendicular wall
twelve feet high ; and the roof was carried on round about with long ftones, till it
ended in an opening at the top, which ferved both for light and a vent to carry off
the fmoke of their fire. Where the ftones were long and good, they had fmall rooms
for fleeping in the thicknefs of their wall. The door or entry was low, three feet for
ordinary, Ihut up by a large broad ftone. There is one of them entire in the parilh of
Loth, which the Bifliop of Offory vifited and examined. It is the only one that is fo,
as far as I could find, excepting one at Suifgil in the parifh of Kildonnan. It is to be
oblervcd, that where the ftones were not flat and well bedded, for fear the outer wall
Ihould fail, they built great heaps of ftones to fupport it, fo that it looks outwardly
like a heap without any defign, which is the cafe at Loth beg, in the parifti of Lothis.
At the tlefire of the Bilhop of Offory I meafured feveral of them, and faw fome quite
demolilhed. ^Vc found nothing in them but hand-mills, or what the Highlanders call
Querns, which \^ ere only eighteen inches diameter, and great heaps of deer bones and
horrs, as they lived much more by hunting than any other means.

What are ftvlcd fcntft, or hunting-houits, are fuppofed to have been ufed by the
antient inhabitants for retreats in the hunting countries. They confifl of a gallery,
with a number of fmall rooms on the fides, each formed of three large ftones, viz. one
on each fide, and a third by way of covering. Thefe are made with the vaft flags this
country is famous for. At the extremity is a lai'ger apartment of an oval figure, pro-
bably the quarters of the chieftain. The paflage or gallery is without a roof; a proof
that ihey were only temporary habitations, 'i'hcir length is from fifty to fixty feet.
'I'hefe buildings an' only in places where the great flags are plentiful. In Glen-Loch
are three, and are called by the country people IJags.

I beg leave to make a few more ri-tiuuks on the roursd edifices. They were large or
fmall, according to the fize or goodneis of the ftones in their neighbourhood. The
ftones that formed the roof were placed thus: the largell lay loweft, the remainder
grew fucccffively finallcr and thinner to tho top ; fo that there was no danger of its
falling in by too great a prcflurc, The builders took great pains to beAtheir ftones

u 2 well ;

^1
'•1

1 ';'

N*^

I48

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

wdl ; and, where two met, they were wont to band them above by another, and to pin
them tiglit to make them firm. The doors were always on the eafl fide, and only
three feet wide at the entrance, but grew higher within, and were clofed with a great
flag. They ufually introduced water into thefe houfes, where they formed a well,
and covered it with a flag-ftone. A deep ditch fiirrounded the oiitfides of many of
thefe buildings. The dead were interred at fome diftance from the houfes. The ceme-
teries were of two kinds. In fome places the dcceafed were placed within great circles
of {tones of a hundred feet diameter, and the the corpfes covered with gravel In
other plac ihey were interred in cuirns of a fugar-loaf form ; fometimes bones have
been founa in them, fometimes urns with aflies, u proof tiiat burning and the common
fpecies of interment was ufual. Sometimes the remains of iron weapons have been
found, but fo corroded that thtnr form could not be diftinguiftied. In one was found
a brazen ht ;id of a fpear nine inches long.

If thefe buildings were the work of the Picls, they originally extended over many
parts of Scotland fouth of this country. The lafl: have been io long in a flate of cul-
tivation, that it is not furprifing that we fee none of thefe houfes w': prcfent, the Hones
having been applied to various ufes. Even in thefe remote parts, thoy are continually
deftroyed as farming gains ground, they offer a ready quarry to the hulbandman for
making inclofuros, or other purpofcs of his bufinefs.

PVom the extirpation of the Pids to the year i z66, Scotland was haraffed by in-
vafions from the Norwegians and Danes, particularly the north part ; for Harold the
Fair, King of Norway, feized Orkney in the latter end of the ninth century. From
Norway fwarms came to Orkney, and the paflage being fo fhort, all the north of Scot-
land was continually in arms. As nothin-^ can be expeded in that period but fight-
ing, bloodfhed, and rapine, we cannot look for improvements of any kind, and for
that reafon it is ncedlefs to attempt any particular hidory of it. It is true, Torfaeus
gives us Ibme account of that time, which is all that we have.

As to the family of Sutherland, they have pollened that country fince the expul-
fion of the Pifts, and have continued as Thanes and F.arls to tJiis tune. That they
are originally of German extradion, is evident tiom their arms. Dr. Abercrombie, in
his Hillory <t the Scots llerocy, mentions Donald Thane of Sutherland married to a
niece of Ki.ig Kenncr II. May that good family continue and profper.

Lord Reay's family derive their original from Ireland, in the twelfth century, when
King William the lion reigned. I'he occafion of their fettling in the north is men-
tioned by Torfaeus, as captains of a number of warriors to drive the Norwegians out
of Caithnefs

The Sinclairs Earls of Caithnefs are only of a late date. The family of Roflin is
their original in Scotland ; but their coming into Enjjland is as early as the year 1066 j
for I find them mentioned among the commnndcrs in the army of W^illiain the Con-
queror, in the roll of B:iltel abbey. They were firll F.arLs of Or}-..f.>y, thvn Karls of
Caithnefs, and Hill continue in the perfon of Will' -n Sinclair of Ratter, who carried
the peerage before the Britifli parlininent this prei< . : year 1772.

As for the hiftory of thefe parts, I Ihall begin with

F.dracliilis *. — Tin's parifh, whicli belongs to the family of Rcay, is all forefl and
rocks, liitle arable, and Ic rcely any plain 'ground, excepting the town of Scoury. The
failure is fine, and plenty of red deer, but the country at fome dillancc looks as if one

• Propfrly Eider Jar clioi'.lus, !. e. bet A-et'n t,vo wood).
6

hill

pennant's tour IK SOOTI/AKD.

149

hill was piled upon another. The firth that runs far into the land abounds with good
filh, and herring i«i their feafon.

Torfbsus mentions a bloody battle fought in this firth, at a place called Glen du, by
two pirates ; one of them he calls Odranus Gillius, the other Suenus, whtrein the
latter was vidorious. There is likewife a tradition of fomp bloody engagement be-
twixt the Mackays and Macleods.

Parilh of Diurnefs. — This parilh was of old a grafs room or fhpaling to the bifhop of -
Caithnefs, and was dilpofed of to the family of Sutherland by bifhop Andrew Stuart,
and the family of Sutherland gave it to Lord Reay's family. Two pieces of antiquity
are to be feen in this parifh : ift, Dornadilla's Tower, or hunting-houfe, which (lands
in Strathmore ; a very ftrange kind cf building, well worth the feeing •. It is certain
that the fineit pafture is in the hills of Diurnefs, which rendered it the beft foreft ia
Scotland of old. Ou** antient Scots kings hunted there frequently, and it appears that
this was a cultom as far back as the time of King Domadilla. ad. There is on the
fide of a hill called Bui fpinunn, a fquare piece of building, about three feet high and
twelve fquare, well levelled, caliea Cam nri, or king's cam, which probably was the
place where his Majefty fat or Itood, and faw the fport, as he had from hence an ex-
tenfive profptft. Torfaeus mentions that one Suenus from Orkney waited on the
King of Scotland as he was diverting himfelf in the hunting; feafon in the hills of
Diurnefs. i'his fhould be in the days of Malcolm II. t

At Loch-eribol, on the north fide, there is a plain rock which is dill called Lech
vuaies, where they fay that Haco,: King of Norway flaughtered the cattle he took from
the natives in his return to Orkney, after the battle of Largis in the year 1 263. Tor-
fasus gives a journal of that expedition, and mentions King Hacon's landing there. -
But there is a tradition that a party of Norwegians, venturing too far into that country^
were cut to pieces j and that the place is called Strath urradale, from the name of the
Norwegian commander : a cuftoni very common of old.

The greatell curiofity in this parifh is a cave called Smow. It is a ftupendous arch
or vault, and runs under ground fo far that the extremity of it was never found.

Donald Lord Reay, the firff of that family, made an attempt, and we are told he
proceeded very far, meeting with lakes, and paffing through them in a boat : but, after
all, was obliged to fatisfy himfelf with feeing a part.

Here are levcral caves that run far under ground, but Smow is the moft ranarkable.
I am told that of late they have difcovered in the manor or mains of Diurnois, a hole of
^reat depth : it was of old covered with large (tones, but thefe it feems have mouldered
away. So that it is the conjedure of many, that there are numbers of cavities of great
extent, under gruund, in this parifh.

Ttiis pirilh is all upon the lime ftone, and abounds in marble ; the part called
ftrictly Diurnefs, is a plain, the foil good, and the j^rafs incompyrable, therelore capable
of the hi^;heil improvement, 'i'he lakes are (tored with the fined hlli, and lull of
marie. Ttie hills ailord the beft padurage for fheep, and the feas are well Itored with
filh. But the gro;U difadvaniage to this country is, that it is expofeil to the noiih-well
ftorms, vvhieh drive the land upon it, and have by that means dcilroyed feveral good
farms, and threaten more harm daily.

In ;his piirifh is a firth called Loch-EriboU ; Torfoeus calls it Go.is-fiord, or the firth
of Hoan, an ifland oppoiite to it. i his is one of the lined and fafeitj-oiids tor (hipping
in ilurope ; the navy of Great Britain can enter it at low water, and find good ancnor-

f^m

>■' ,«: i

' " i

* A furtticr account of tiki* tuwcr will be gi.cu in the Tour aad Voyagr of i^;...-

ing.

150

PENlf ANT 8 TOUR TN SCOTLAND.

ing. It is a loFs that this incomparable bay has not been furveyed, and the diflerent an-
choring places marked. It would be a mighty blefling to mariners, bL-ing fo near Caps
Wrath, one of the mod (tormy capes in the worU. For it would bo a fato retiv.it
to vcflcls, in time of llorm, either failing towards the cape, or to thofc that had the
inluforrunc to receive any damage off it. Cape Wrath is alfo in the parifli of Di-
un.'f!:-.

Paridi of Tongue. The antiquities of this parifli are few. There is an old DaniHi
building upon the funimit of a hill, called CalUc varrich, or Barr caiUe : for the D mos
or Norwegians pofleflcd thr>t country for fomo time. Tongue is the icat of Lord Roay's
family. This paridi is rather better for palture than tillage, but what corn ground
they have is extremely good. Of old there was a fine foreft in it, and there is Hill
plenty of dcor. The anceltors of Lord Reay's family drove the Danes from tiiefe parts.

In this parfli is a loch, called Loch-Hacon ; in it an ifland, called Ulan Lochan Hi-
con, in which there is the ruin of a ftone building with an artificial walk in ir, called
Grianan, bccaufe dry and expofed to the fun. From which it appears that Karl Hacon,
who pofl'effcd Orkiioy and Caithnefs, had a hunting houfe in this iiland, and lodged
tlicre with his warriors, in the hunting feafon. The fea-coall far the greatclt part is all
rock, of a rough granite, or what we call whin. Here is a promoiitory or cape, called
Whiten head, very fl:ormy when it is a hard gale.

There was formerly a chapel in an ifland near Skerray ; the common people call
it the iile ot Saints ; it goes by the name of Ifland comb.

Another ifland, called Ulan na nroan, all of a high rock, but good land, and plenty
of water and mofs. It might be rendered impregnable. Botli thel'e iflands are in the
pariih of Tongue. I have been in Ulan comb. If the fand had not over-run a part, it
would be a charming place.

A bloody battle was fought in this parifli of old, by one of the anceftors of Lord
Reay, againft one Agnus Murray, a Sutherland man, wherein the Sutherland men
were cut to pieces. The field of battle is called Drim na coub. And in the fame
place there was a fkirmifli betwixt Lord Reay's men, and a number of Frenchmen that
were on board the Hazard floop of war, in 1746: fome of the French were killed,
and the reft taken prifoners.

'I'his parifli is remarkable for an /.'xcellent ebb, where they have the fineft cockles,
niufclos, fpout fiih, and flounders, or floaks; which is a great blefling to the poor,
and no fmall Ixncfit to the rich. And in the firth of Tongue there is a fine ifland,
abounding with rabbets, called Rabbet Ifle. It has many lochs, or Irefli water lakes,
full of the fi:ie(l trout and falmon.

Paiifli of Far. — The whole of thofe four pariflics was of old called Strathnavcr,
from the river Navar, which was fo called, as fome think, from the name of one of
King Kenneih the Second's warriors. It is a ■ oble body of water, well flored with
falmon, having many fruitful and beautiful v ilagcs or the banks of it, and is fo in-
habited for eighteen miles.

At a place called Langdalf there were nobio remains ot a druiJical temple, being a
circle of 100 feet diameter, and lurrounded \^i'h a trench, lb that the earth formed a
bank ; in the midft of it a flone was credcd lik j a pillar, where th', i')ruids flood and
tauglit. The country people have now trenched or delved that groiuul, and fovvn it
with corn. There was in that town a large round building, and a place where they
buried of old.

This pariih is of great extent, rather a country for pafturc than tillage. A great

battle was fought of old at a place called , Harald or Ilarald's field or plain,

betwixt

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND. I^f

betwixt Reginald King of the Ifles, and Ilarald Earl of Orkney and Caithnefs. Ha-
rald WHS well drubbed ; and the field of battle is tull of fmall cairns, where the flain
are buried, and fome large ftoncs creiSted like pillars fhew where perfons of note were
interred. Torfaus tcHs a long (lory about this affair ; it feems that they had bloody

Ikirniifhes at , and near the nianfe of Far, as appears from the number of cairns

in uoth thcfe places. There is a mofl: curious fepulchral monument in the churchyard
of Far, which may be of that date ; it is of hard hill granite, well cut, <:onfidering the
xraofic. But what the meaning of the fculpture is, we know not. Only we may
guefs, that the perlbn for whofe fake it was ereded, was a chriftian, becaufe of the
crofs upon the (lone ; Pid that he was a warrior, becaufe we fee a (hield or target upon
it. I have taken a draught of it.

In this pari(h, *in old times, was a chapel at a town called Skail, upon the river
Naver ; another in the extremity thereof, at Moudale ; and another at Sarthie, the
moft beautiful and fertile part of the pariih.

Betwixt Far and Kirtomy, in this pariih, is a moft Angular curiofity, well worth the
painsof a traveller to view, being the remains of an old fquare building or tower, called
Borve, (landing upon a fmall point joined to the continent by a narrow neck of land
not ten feet wide. This point or head is very high, confifting of rock, and fome gra-
vel on the top ; on both fides is very deep water, and a tolerable harbour for boats.
This tower feems to be built by the Norwegians ; and the tradition is that one Thorkel,
or Torquil, a warrior mentioned by Torfaeus, was the perfon that built it. They
fpeak likewife of a lady that was concealed there ; (he is faid to be an Orkney woman,
and Thorkel was an Orkney man. But what is moft curious, is, that through the rock
upon which the tower ftands, there is a paiTage below of 200 feet in length, like a grand
arch or vault, through which they row a boat. The writer has been one of a company
that rowed through it. The pa(rage is fo long, that when you enter at one end, you
fancy that there is no poffibility to get out at the other et vice verfa. How this hard
rock was thus bored or excavated, 1 cannot fay j but it is one of the moft curious natu-
ral arches, perhaps, in the known world.

In this pariih there is alfo a promontory, called Strathy head ; Ptolemy the geogra-
pher calls it Vervadrum,'as he calls Cape Wrath, Tarvedrum, and Dungfbey head, Ber-
ubium. Thefe thret --omontories run in a line, from N. W. to north, and jut far out
into the fea, having il rapid tides upon them. In Strathy head is a ftately cave, cal-
led Uai nei, or cave whore they find driven wood or timber. The entrance into this
Cive is very grandt the natural rock almoft forming itfelf like the fway of an arch : the
writer hereof has admired the beauty of it. This promontory is the fineft pafture for
fliecp and goats in the north of Scotland.

To the north-eaft of Strathy there is a ftone erefted near the highway, with a crofs
upon it, which (hews its antiquity as a fcpulcliral monument. Fredcd (lones were the
t!iftingui(hing marks of the graves of perlons of note in time of Paganifm. And after
Chridianity was planted in this kingdom, the diftinftion of Pagan from Chriiliau was
that a crofs was cut upon the fepulchial monuments of the latter. 1 have feen many
with this didinguilhing badge.

No doubt there are mines in this country, if perfons of (kill examined our fiiores
and rocks ; as yet no pains have been taken. I have been told that there is at Loch-
Eribol plenty of iron (lone, and fomething like a tin mine. As I do not undcrftand
thefe things, I chufe to pals them over. As for fea-filh and (hells, we have none ex-
traordinary. It is true, in Caithnells, John a Groat's buckles arc very curious and
beautiful, of which we (hall take notice in the pariih of Caunciby. "^"

Parifli

ly^'W

I Vii'B

ti , 'M

»5»

pennant's tour m Scotland.

Parirti of Reay. Some part of this parifli lies in thcfliire of Sutherland, but the great-
eft part in that of Caithneis ; that part in Sutherland is called Strarh-Iialladale, from
Halladha Earl of Orkney, a Norwegian, flain in battle in the beginning of the tenth
cejitur)'. The field of battle is full of fmall cairns, or heaps of ftone. The com-
mander in chief, and principal wamors flain in that adion, are buried in a place apart
from the field of battle : I have frequently fcen the place. The tradition is, that Hall-
adha is buried in a fpot inclofed with a circular trench ten or twelve feet wide, unJ that
hisfword lies by his fide. There was a ftone eredled in the middle of this circle, part
of which ftill remains. Near the field of battle ftands a little town, called Dal Hall-
adha, or Halladha's field. A river runs through Strath>Halladale, which is rather
pafture ground on the fides of it, for the eleven miles it is inhabited.

The boundary betwixt Sutherland and Caithnefs, to the north, is called Drim Halli-
ftin. Caithnefs is a fiat plain country, having few hills i the foil good, and producing
great quantities of corn in fruitful feafuns ; it lies upon quarries of a black flate kind,
and perhaps no country on earth excells it for fmooth thin flags or flates of great di-
menfions. As thefe flags may be feen in all part of the country, it is needlels to dc-
fcribe them. The foil not being deep, and the country flat, renders our highways very
deep in winter, and very dry in fumnicr. That part of the parifli of Rcay in the fliire
of Caithnefs, is excellent corn ground through the whole of it. It appears that many
battles have been fought in it in former times, but we have no tradition concerning
them. In later times fome bloody fliirmiflies happened betwixt M'Kay of Strathnaver,
and Keith Earl Marcfchal ; and alfo betwixt the Caithnefs and Strathnaver people.

The following chapels ftood in this parifli of old; St. Mary's at Lybfter; St. Mag-
nus'sat Shcbiber : one at Shall, another at Baillie, and a third in Shurerie ; befides the
parifli kirk dedicated to St. Colnian, at Reay. There is an old caftle at Dunreay, and
modern houfes both at Bighoufe and Sandfide.

Lead mines are frequent in Caithnefs j but the country is fo flat, that there is no
working them for water. The moft promifing mine is at Sandfide, being in the face of
a rock near the fea. It might prove of value, if proper pains were taken to work it.
The highways run near it.

It ieems that the Sajtons, in the fifth century, plagued this country ; and it is prob-
able thatThurfo is lb called from Hoda the Saxon general, who landed in the river of
Thurfo, or Inverr-Horfa, the landing-p'ace of Horfa. And when the Saxons plundered
Caithnefs, itfeems they had a bloody conflidl wiih the natives. In this parifli there is
a place calletl Tout Horia, or Horfa's grave, where they fiiy that fome great warrior was
flain and buried ; in the place is a great ftone eroded. Probably he was one of
Horfa's captains. This is the tradition.

Parifli of Thurfo. 'i'hurfo, or Inver-Aorfa, fo called from the Saxon general, is a
town of an old date ; we find mention made ol it as a populous place in the eleventh
century, and from it the parifli is denominated. Formerly a ftrong caftle ftood in it,
called Caftrum de Thorfa ; but no veftigeof it is now extant. The Earls of Caithnefs
had a fine fquarc at Thurfo Eaft now demoliflicd. Tlie Bifliop of Caithneis iiad a
ftrong caftle at Scrabfter, near Thurfo, called the caftte of Burnfide, built in the
thirteenth centur)', by Gilbert Munay, Blfliop of Caithnefs: the ruins are ilill extant.
Another caftle ftood at Ormly, near Thurfo : lately dcnuiliflied. At IMurkil, to the
eaft of Thurfo, there were great buildings of old ; it was a leat of the late Earl cf
Caithnefs, and at Hamer he had a modern houfe. An old tower, ftill extant, Hands I'.t
Brmts, three miles weft of Thurfo,

PENNANTS TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 153

As for chapels and places of vvorfliip, one flood at Crofs Kirk, one at Brines, another
atGwic, and a fmall chapel (tood in the parks of Thurfo Ealt, whore Earl Harold the
younger was buried. The walls are f\ilcn down; but Mr. Sinclair of Ulbdcr, very
gencroufly is determined to enclofe that fpot, becaufc that young nobleman is interred
there. The church of Thurfo was the bifliop's chapel ; and when he rcfided in Caith-
nefs, he often preached there. I was told by the late Earl of Caithnefs, that there was
a nunnery in ancient times near his feat at Murkil. The country people call the place
the Glofters ; but no veflige of the biiiklinp; is extant, excepting the remains of the
garden wall, which enclofed a rich fpot of ground. Torfi^cus fays that a Queen of Nor-
way lived foine time at Murkil. He relates that Hari;ld the Bloody, fon to Harold the
Fair, was banilhed for his cruelty, with his Oucen ; and that his brother Hacon fucceed-
ed to the throne : but after Harold the Bloody was flain in England, his Queen returned
to Orkney, andrefided fome time at Murkil in Caithnefs.

The fame author mentions great battles fought in this parifh j one in the eleventh
century, on the plains of Thurfo Ead, betwixt Thorfmnus Earl of Orkney, and one
Karl or Charles; he calls him King of Scotland, or a general of the Scots army. An-
other bloody battle at Claredon, near Thurfo I'.all, betwixt the Earls Harold the
elder and younger. I have already told that Earl Harold the younger is buried near
the field of battle, ard a chapel ereded oVer his grave, which is now to be enclofed by
Mr. Sinclair of Ulbfte;*, a moft promifing youth.

The bifhop of Caithnefs, fmce the reformation, lived in a fmall houfe at Scrabfter,
which is (fill extant, and belongs to the crown. He had a grafs room in the Highlands,
called Dorary, where ftood a chapel, called Gavin's Kirk, or Temple Gavin ; the walls^
are ftill (landing. The river of Thurfo abounds with falnion, ten and eleven lads of
fifli have been caught.

Parifli of Olrig. A fine corn country, two miles and a half in length, and a mile
broad, or thereabouts. Nothing memorable in it.

Parifli of Dunnet. Ihe northerly winds have covered a great part of this parifh with
fand ; a large traft of ground is ruined and not likely to be recovered. In this parifli
(lands Dunnet head, or what Ptolemy calls Btrubium, a large promontory, with a moll
terrible tide on the point of it. A hermit in ancient times lived upon it, the ruins of his
cell are extant. It is a fine flicep paflure. The parifli itfelf is an excellent corn coun-
try. At Ratter is the feat of the prefent Earl of Caithnefs.

Parifli of Cannelbcy is a fine corn country. Here was the ancient refidence of one
of the governors of Caithmis, under the Norwegian lords that held Orkney and
Caithnefs. They dwelt at Dungfbey, and their office was called the Praefedlura dc
Dungalfbxis. 'I'orfieus mentions bloody battles fought betwixt the Scots and Nor-
wegians, near Dungilby, in the tenth century. And twin. King of Scotland, fought
an army of Orkney men, at Iluna in this parifli, and dellroyed their King and his army.
Here was, formerly, befides the parifli church, a chapel at St. John's head, near Mey,
and another at Frehvick.

At Mey there is a beautiful, ft,rong caflle, belonging to Sir John Sinclair. Here a
kind of coal is f >und, like the Lanltaflen coal in Wales. At Frefwick Hands a large
nuidtrn houfe, the feat of Mr. John Sinclair. And there is a fl^rong old caflle, built on
a high rock joined to the continent by a nan ow neck of land to the fouth of Frefwick.
Torfccns calls it Lambaburgum five catlrum agnorum. It fuftained a memorable fiege
in the twelfth century. In later times it was pofl'eflcd by Mouat of Bucholly. The
coriimon people call it Bucclc's caflle, a corruption erf Buchollie's caftle. In Dungifby,
the japid tides of th« Pcntland throw up vail quantities of moil beautiful fea fliells,

vol,. III. X abundance

;.. /

■1 ■ n

* 'm

•54

PrNKANT 8 TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

abuiulance of which arc carried foutli for (hell work. Tiicy are c:ilIod John a Groat's
buckii'S. The town and ferry belonged of old to a gentleman of the name of Groat.

An ifland belongs to this parifh, called Stroma, in which there is a vault where they
bury, built by one Kennedy of ("larnnuich. The coffins are laid on (tools above ground.
But the vault bdnp; on the fea ciic^c, and the rapid tides of the Pentland firth running by
it, there is I'ucli a lalfifl) air continually, as has converted the bodies int() nunnniics : in-
fomuch, that one Murdo Kennedy, fon of Carnmuch, is faid to beat the drum on his
father's bellv.

I'arilh of Wick, an excellent cori] country, and a fruitful fea ; 2000 barrels of her-
rings were caught here in the year 1771. T here was a chapel near Callle Sinclair,
railed St. Tav, another at Ulbfter, and a third at Kilmiller. The calUc; of Girnigo is
the oldoll building in this parilh. I cannot find out by whom it was creeled. It is pro-
bable fiMuc rtrong building Hood here before the prefent ruinous houft was erected. It
ilands on a rock in the fea. Near it flood CalVIe Sinclair, built by George Earl of
Claithnefs ; a grand houfe in thofe days. Not lar from it flood the caftle of Akergil,
built by Keith Karl Marefchal : but this place is now rendered a moil beautiful and
convenient feat, by Sir William Dunbar of Hemprigs, the proprietor. In the old tower
isthelargefl vault in the North of Scotland, beautified with elegant "'ghts and plailler-
ing, by Sir William ; fo that it is now the grandelt room in all this pa.t of the country.

I'hetown of Wick is a royal burgh, now rifing fince the herring fifhery has profper-
rd. Ti) the fouth of it (lands an old tower, called Lord Olifant's caflle. A cojjper are
was dilcovered there, and wrought for fome time, but I do not find thoy have proceeded
in it.

In this parifh there is a haven for fifliing boats, called Whaligo, which is a creek be-
twixt two high rocks. Though the height of one of thefe rocks is furprifing, yet the
country people have made fleps by which they go up and down, carrying heavy burdens
on their back ; which a llranger, without feeing, would fcarcely believe. This is a fine
fifhing coafh

There was a battle fought at Old Namerluch, in 1680, betwixt the Earl of Caith-
ncfs, and Lord Glenurchv.

Parifli of Lathrone, eighteen miles long; partly paflure, partly corn ground. It has
a chapel at Kafler Clyth, and another at the water of Dunbeath, belides the p;irifh
kirk.

At tho loch of Stemfler, in this parifh, (lands a famous Druidical temple. I have
viewed the place : the circle is large, above 100 feet diameter: the flones are large
and ereft j and to (hew that the planetary fyflom was obfcrvcd by them, they are fet up
in this manner, i: 2: 3: 4: 5: 6: 7. Then the fame courfe begins again ; 1:2:
3:4: kc. Few of the flones are now fallen. Near the temple there is a ruin, where
the Arch-Druid, it feems, refided. I find no fuch large Druid temples in the country :
as (or Imall ones, they are generally found in nianv places.

Upon a rock in the edge of the fea, In EaiUr Clyth, there is an old building, called
Cruner Gunn's caflle. Tnis gentleman of the name of Gunn was coronator or juflici-
ary of Caithnefs : he was bafcly murdered, with feveral gentlemen of the name, and of
•Hher names, in the kirk of St. 'I'eay, near callle Sinclair, by Keith Karl Man fchal.
T he ftory is told at full length in the hidory of the family of Sutherland. This hap-
pened in the fifteenth century. At Mid Clyth there wjs a large Iiuui'e, built by Sir
George SiiK lair of C'iytii. At Nottin.'ham there is an ch'g.int new houfe, built by
Captain Sutherland of Farfe : n».*ar this is the parifh kirk. I'here is a flrong oldcaltleat
Dunbt^ath; and near Lau^wallisa flrong old ruin, laid to be Ronald Chcir's caflle ;

I»ENNANT S TOUU IN HCOTI.AND. 155

he lived in the fourteenth century, and was a great hunter of deer, aswillbotold wlvn
\vc come to fpcak of iIil- parilh of Iliilkirk. lie h;\tl a third part of Ciithncfs in pro-
pcity : lii;i j;rcat cH;itt.' wis divided hvtwixt ids two daughter ; one of whicii became a
nun, tlic otiur married the anceilor of the Lord Dufi'us.

'I'lure is an old huiidiii'j; at l/.irliroiu', called Harold tower, faid (u have been built
by wicked luui llan.ld, In the lucilth eentiu'y.

We readof Idoody encounters in this paiilh, betwixt the Calthnefs men, and 1Iuj:;o
Froflcin Ivarl of Sn'iKr'and : aiul likcwife many cof.flirts b.iwixt the two counirics in
afler-iiiii'". 'I'orf.eiis fays tliat l\.ii\i^ William the I-iou inarched into Caithnefs wiiha
great army, and eneampi'il at OulUalcs, or J''.ii!.cnfdale. I'his expedition of his !Vl;\jclly's
way to dnv(! out wii.ked L!arl Harold the eider, wiio liad llain Harold the vnunji'er.
The kinc fi'i/.cd C'aiihncfs as aeonqned, then Karl Harold fubinitted hiinfeU to him.

I'acilh of Loth, a fine e(n-n country; nnich haralled of old by the Daiie,-. or Nor-
Wi^j^iai'-. in it are St. Niniaii's chapel at Navid.de, John the Baptill's at the river
llelmild.de, St. In;ni's at Ivailer Gartie, and St. Trullen's at Kintradwil, befides the
parifli kirk, 'rii; cdlie of Hehnifdale wa;j built by Lady Margaret Baillie, Countefs of
Sutherhmd : and tluM'o was a Iquare or court of building at C'.niiag, erected by Lady
Jane Gordon, Gcnmtef; of Sutherland ; nn vellige of it now extant.

'J'here is fine filhiii;^ in ihe rivers of liehuiidale and Loth. The latter has a very high
cataracl, where the water pours from a liigh rock, and falls into a terrible gulph be-
low. If tin's e^nld be removed, this river would aflbrd exct-Ucnl falmon fifhing. The
hills in this parifli were of old famous for hunting. At there is a hunting home, pro-
bably built by the Picl>, confdUng of a great number of fmall rooms, each conipoied of
three large flone?. 'Ihcfe buildings prove that a tribe lived here in the hunting leafon.
Near it ffands a large Piclifh caUle, called Cam Bran. It fecms that this J^ran, or
Brian, was fome great nian in thofe days, and that all thefe accommodations were of
his building. Tiie quarry from whence the ftoncs were carried to build this caflle, is
ilill to be feen, and tiie road for their carriage vihblc, bchig like a fpiral line along the
lide of the hill.

I read of no battles in this parifli : fome bloody conflicts are told us, and thefe are to
be feen in the hiftory of the family of Sutlicrland. Near the miln of Loth-beg is the
entire Pitts houfe, which the bifhop of Ollbry entered. There is a fine cafcade as
you travel along the fhore under Loth-beg, which makes a charming appearance when
there is any fall cd rain, or in time of a keen froft.

Parifh of Clyne, partly corn t^round, and partly fit for paflurc. There wn^ s chapel
at Dol, called Hi. IMalion. No confiderable buildings in this parifh. Sui rland of
(dyne had a good houfe; and Nicolas Earl of Suth.'rland had a hunting flat in the
Iliphlands called Calilc T'un, but now demolilhed.

'i'hcre is a tradition that a battle was fought at Kilal: ddil, in this parifli, wherein the
conntrv people routed the Danes. I'he cf-mmon mark^ of a batt; ' are vifible there, vi:^
a number of hiiall cairn--. Another bloody battle was fought at Clyne i\Iiltoii, betwixt
the Suthcrlasid and Calthnefs men ; the llaugluer was great, and the cairns, dill to be
fcLU there, cover heaj*' of llain.

The river of Brora atibrds a fine falmon fifhory : it f.Jls into the fea at Brora.
Widiin two large miles is the loch of that name, which abounds with falmon. From
the loch the river lies to the weff ; and at a place called Achir-na-hyl, is a moll charm-
ing cafcade : hert' alfo they fdli for pearls. On the top of al lall hill near the houfe of
Clyne, is a limc-llonc quarry; and in the heart of the flone, all forts of fea flu'lls
known in thefe parts are found. They art> fivfli and entire, and the lime-ilone within

-K 2 the

■i'

•: n i

156

»ENNANT*8 TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

the fhcll rcfembks the fifli. 'I'lu' bifliop orOlVory employed iniTi to how out mafTesof
the rock, which lie broke, ;\nil c.irried away a l;ir^e quaiuiiv •'( Ihellb. Niar the bridge
of Brori there is u fine hir^;e cave . .dk-d I'ai iiii C alinaii. The bilhop of Oliory admired
it, aiul laid there wire lucli caves about H.thli'heiu in I'aL'lline. I'iiJ coal work and
fait w oik are obvious lu-re. Hut at Str.ithlevcn, juar tlie lea, there is a hermit's apart-
ment, cut artilitially in the natural rock, well worth a vilit Irom any curious traveller.

I need not mention the artilicial iflands in the loch ol Brora, made by the old thams
of Sutherland, as a place of refuge in danjjerous times. Near that loch Hands a h\^\\
hill or rock, Creig baw ir, on the fummit of which there is great fpace. This rock is
fortilied round ; and as the neck that joins it to another rock is fmall, it fecms that wlu-n
they were invaded by enemies, they lied to tliii llron;; hold, and drove their cattle
likewife inti> it forfafety. Others fay it was a place for keeping of a watch.

Parifli of Golfpie, this is a fine corn country. The parilh kirk was of old at Culmalie ;
and at Golfpie the family of Sutherland hail a chapel of eale, dedicateil to Si. Andrew
tlic Apoftle. In this parifh Hands the feat of llioKarls of Sutlier!and,at Duiuobin ; but
during the DaniAi wars, they lived at a greater dillance from the lea. This parilh af-
fords no other great buildings; nor is there any tradition concerning any battles
fought in it : fmall tkirmifhes have happened here ; particulaily in the year 1746, when
the Earl of Cromarty was taken prifoncr. Moll remarkable is the devaltatioa done by
fand ; large trads of corn a.ound have been quite Ipoiled thereby, and ntore mifchiet
is threatened yearly.

Parifh of Dornoch, in this parifh ftands tiic cathedral church of Caithnefs. Tlic
Norwfgians having murdered bifliop John at Scrabller, and bilhop Adam at Halkirk,
in the year 1222 ; Gilbert Murray, the fucceeding bilhop, built the cathedral at Dor-
noch, which was wlieii entire, a neat compact building. It was burnt in troublefome
times, and never fully repaired. The bilhop Iiad a luinrner refidence at Ski'x) ; but in
winter he lived in his caflle at Dornoch, the ruins of which are to be fecn. Tiierewas
a (lately fabrick of a church, built in that town, in the eleventh century, by St. liar,
bilhop of CaiiJniefs ; but bifliop Murray thought it too fmall : it ilood wlure the
council houfe now Hands. We are told that the diocefe of Caithnefs was not divlkied
into parifhes tilt tiie days of bifliop Murray ; and that he tranflated the pfalms and
gofpcls into the Irifh language, or Scots (iaelic. ihe dignified clergy had houfes and
glebes in Dornoch ; theie made up his chapter when there was occalion to call one.
It is a lols that we have none of their records ; nor indeed is it a great wonder, conll-
dering the daily inv.ifionsof the D.mcs, which ended not till 1266.

In bilhop Murray's time there was a blooily battle fought at Hilton near Kmbo ; he
and William Karl of Sutherland fought there againil the Danes, and cut them to pieces.
The Danifli general was killed, and hes buried in Hilton. '1 here was a Hone eredeil
over his grave, which the common people called Ree crofs, or crofs in Ri, or King's
crofb, fancying that the King ot Norway wa;> there buried. A brother of the bilhop was
alfo killed in this battle; his body liesin a Hone coflin in the call aille of the cathedral,
above ground, near the font. The hewn Hone ereded to the call of Dornoch is a
trophy of this viiitory : it has the Earl of Sutherland's arms on tlij north fide. Hill very
vifible, and the bifliop of Caithnefs's arms on the fouth fide, but the heat of the fun has
quite deflroyed the Iculpture.

The driving of fand is vtry hurtful to this parifli, and threatens Hill more harm. Tlu;
only old building in it, excepting thofe already mentioned, is Skibo. Hugo Frefkin,
Earl of Sutherland, gave theie lands to bifliop Gilbert Murray, then archdeacon of
Murray, in 1 186. It pafl'eJ through feveral hand?, till at lall it came to Lord DuUus':-,

14 and

rnNNANT's TOUR IN .stOVJ-ANIi. I37

and now It returns to the family of Sutherland. It was u great pile of building, fur-
roundi'd with a rampart. 'I'heprcfi*nt modern houfe is dill l)ahital)le. The fituation is
moll beautiful, and a line liouic there would h^ve a noble etfei^. Cyder-hall is only a
jnoJcrn Iioufe. The plantations here, and at Skibo, are the mo(t thriving in this parili.
At the latter place a Iiotife was lately Imilt in a very eh-f;ant tallw. I'.mbo is an old build-
ing, the feat of the knights of Etnbo. It is u pity that it has neither plantations nor
policy about it.

Pariflj of Creicli has no preat buildings in it : PulcrofTi k the bcfl. The great cata-
rafl at Inverfhin is a j^ranil (it;ht: fuch a large body of water pouring down from a
high rock cannot uiifs allorditig entertaiv..iei\t. The iiver of Shin aliounds with large
falmon, and rturgcons are often fccn there In the nth or 12th century lived a great
man in this parilh, called Paul Meutisr. This warrior routed an army of Danes near
Crcich. Tradition fays that he gnve his daughter in marriage to one Ilulvcr, orLeander,
a Dane, and with her the lanilsof .itrahohee ; and that from that marriage are dcfcended
the Clan Landris, a brave people, in Rofsfiiire. 'i'he gentlemen of the name of <lray
pod'efTed Mertil-Creich of an old date; and at Mrydol there was a good houfe and or-
chard, which I believe arc dill .xtant. 1 fmd no other memorabilia in the pariih of
Crcich.

Parilh of Larg. The mod remarkable thir g in it is Loca-Shin, which is computed to
be eighteen miles long, vith fine ; adure-g'ound on each fide of it. What Ikirmifhes
have happened in this paridi are mentioned m the hill ; y of the family of Sutherland.

Parifli of Rogart confids of good padure and goo orn land. A bloody battle was
fought here, near Knochartol, in the days of Cou.u*;;s Elizabeth. Tradition fays, that
upon the field of battle furh a number of '""ords were found that they threw numbers
of them into a loch ; and that in dry fu; i.iwrs they Itill f'l'iu iomc of them. There is
a place in this parilh called Morinifs, and Ptolemy the geographer places th jre a people
called the .vlorini. He alio calls the river Hclmifdale, Ueas; and tlie nalivcvS call it in
the Gaelic, Ulie, Avin lllie, liun Ulie, Stra lUie.

Panfli of Kildonnan confills of a valley, divided into two parts by the river Hclmif-
dale, or lllie, only fit for pallure. The pariih kirk is dedicated to St. Donan. A tribe
lived here called Gunn.--, of Norwegian e; '.raition: they have continued here upwards
of five hundreil yeai's, and contributed to extirpate the Danes out of Sutherland. They
were hi all times fatellitcs to the Kails of Sutherland. Their chieftain is lately dead, and
reprefented by two boys: it were to be wifhed that fome generous perfon would take care
of their education. The mod remarkable piece of Iiidory relating to this parilh is what
Torf;cus mentions, viz. that Ilelga, Countefs of Orkney, and her liiler Frauhaurk, lived
at Kinbrafs, and fupported a grand fannly there. This lady had a daughter called Mar-
garet, who was educated in ,;.'"' deferts, and there married IVIaddadius Earl of Athole,
uncle's fon to King David i, ■ i Scotland. Thefe buildings were burnt, and reduced to
heaps, fo that we cannot dilcern what their model has been ; at prefent, they are called
Cairn-flmin : ami Torlkus fays that one Suenus burnt and demolifhed them.

What I'mall ikirmi(hi-s have happened in tliis parifli are not worth mentioning, ex-
cci)ting what Torli'ni- mentions relative to Kiubrals, betwixt Suenus an Orkney man
; nd Aulver RoUa captain of a guard, which an old wicked lady, called Frauhaurk, kept
to di fend her. '1 his lady, we are told, had ordered a party to go and murder Olafus,
the father of Suenus, at Dunglbey, which party Aulver commanded. They came to
Dunglbey, and burnt that brave man, and fi.\ more with him, in his own houfe. Luckily
the lady of the houfe was abfent, being invited to an entertainment in the days of Chrid-
mas. Her fon Gunnius, the anceilor of the Gunns, was with her, and Suenus was alfa

abfcut.

'i"%

1 1: :. .1

158 pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

jibfcnt. After maiiV years Siiemis comes with a party, attacks Aiilvcr, atjd after
a fniart engagement dctVats him, fo that he lleJ, aiui as many as could nuke their
eleapc with him. Suenus after this burns Fraiihaurk and all her family, and nr.ide a
heap of the buildings : and thoiigli the ruins are great, yet no man can tell of what kind
they were; that is, whether round like the Pittilh houfes, or not. This hr.npencd in
the ! 21 h century.

Parifli nf Halkirk, partly corn land, partly paflin-e. Many placos of worfliip liave
)-icen in this parilh ; luch as the parifli kirk ^>i' Skinnan, the hdfpital of St. Magnus :,t
Spittal, the walls of the church belonging to it being llill extant; the chapel of Olgrin,-
beg ; the chapel of St. Troltin, at Wcillield ; the chapel of >Sc. (Juerin, at Straihinore ;
i.nother chapel at Dilred : and as the bifliop of Caillme's liv;'d cf old at Halkirk, his
tliapel was called St. Kathrin, of which there is no vettige left hut a heap of rubbiih.

'I'ho Norwegian lords that were fuperiors oi '.'aithners built the calile of IJraal. Here
lived Earl John, who is faid to have caufcd the burning of the bidiop of Caitlinefs.
This bifli'^p. wliofe name was Adam, lived near the place where ti)e minifler's houfe
ilands--, 'oc near the bloody Earl. It is faid lie wr.-. fevere in CN-acling tithes, v. hich niade
thecoiuitry people complain; whereupon the Earl told them that they fliould take the
bifliop and boil him. Accordingly they went on furioufly, and boiled the bifliop in his
own huiile, together with one Serlo a monk, his ci)mpanion, in the year 1^22. King
Alexander II. came in perfon to Caithncfs,and, it is laid, executed near cightv pcrfons
concerned in that murder. The Earl fled, but afterwards pardoned by the King.
However, fomc time after he was killed in the town of I'hurfo by fome perfons whom
Iio defigned to murder. At liraal there was a fine garden, bofide which they catch the
fnfl: fahuon from the month of November to the month of Auguft. The 'fituation is
moil beautiful, very well adapted for the feat of a great man. The caflle of Dilred
V. as built by Sutherland of Dilred, defcended from the family of Sutherland : it is a
fmall building on the top of a rock. His fon, Alexander Sutherland, forfeited his effatc ;
and thefe lauus were given to the anceflor of Lord Reay, but now belong to Mr. Sin-
clair of Ulbller.

L'p tiie river flands ati old ruin, called Lord Chein's, or Ronald Chcin's, hunting,
houfe : he was the Ninirod of that age, fpending a great part of his time in that exer-
cife. The houfe flood at the outlet of a loch, called Loch-more, the fource of the river
of Thurfo, which abounds with falmon. Ronald Chein had a cruive on this river
with abeil io conlirucied, tliat when a fifli tumbled in the cruive the bell rang. The
tradition is, that all tliLfe liiglilands v/ere then fored and wood, but now there is fcarcely
any wood. Ihis loch is about half a mile long, anil near that in breadth, and is the
befl fiih pond in Britain ; many lalls are cauj^ht every year on the fliore of this loch
by the country peopi'.'. Sixty nets arc for ordinary fhot (m it in a night, and fifh in
every one. Many gentlemen claim a property hi it, for which caufe it is a couunoa
•:juod to the country in general.

Tiiore is in the t.,'\\n(.l Nortli Calder an old ruin, called Tullocii-liongie. 'i'oif-cus
fays that Ronald Earl of Orkney was trcaelieroufly murdered there by arutlian he calls
jiiiorbiornus IClerkus, and a finart ikirmilh enlued. '1 liiorbiornus fled, and being hotly
jiurfued, was burnt in a houfL where he took fhelter, anil eight more with him. This
was in the izih century. Two battles wjre fought by the Danes in the dales of the
p irifli of Halkirk : one at Tofiiii-galc, the grave of the foreigners. A Scots noblem.m
whom Torlkus calls Comes Magbragdus, commanded on one iide, and a Norwegian,
called l.iotus, on the other: Liotus was mortally wounded, and buried at Sten-hou
near the kirk of Watten. The other battle was fought at Halfary. The hr^e Hones

erccti-'d

i»jiNNANT*S tOUR IM SCOTLAND.

'59

crefted at Rangag and thereabout, are fcpulchral monuments, where perfons of note
are buried. There was a battle fought in the 1 6th century, by the Gunns and others,
at a place called Blahiandofs, near Harpifdale, wherein the Gunns were routed. The
beautiful river of Thurfo runs through this parifh, and numbers of falmon are caught
in it. Pidifli houfes are very numerous along the fhorc, but all fiUlen down. It is a
nioft beautiful parifli, and muft have of old abounded v/ith game and fifl), which invited
people to fettle in it. Mr. Sinclair, of Ulbfler, is proprietor of one half of it.

Parilh of Bower: here the archdeacon of Caithnefs rc^fiJed. The pope of Rome
was of old patron. I have in my poflellion two prefentations from his holinefs to the
archdeacon of Bowar. It was anciently a very (wttnfive parifli, but now Watten is
part of it. I know of no other place of worfliip, befides the parifh kirk, excepting the
chapel of Dun, where a clergyman officiated, before the eredion of the parifh of Watten.
I know of nothing memorable concerning it. If there ever were any grand buildings
in it, no veftiges of them now remain, lorfjeus mentions a great man that lived here
in the 1 2th century, named Maddan ; one of whofe fons was filled Magnus the Gene-
rous, the other Count Ottar of Thurfo. His daughter Helga married Harold the
orator, Earl of Orkney. Another married Liotus, a noble Dane^ that lived in Suther-
land ; and the third was married to a Dane that lived in in Orkney.

Parifh of Watten, a country fit for both tillage and pafture. The chapti of Dun
ftands now in it. Here are no buildings but of a modern date. The only memorable
thing in this parifh is the grave of Liotus, Earl of Orkney. At Sten-hou, near the kirk,
of Watten, ftands a great rock upon a green fpot of ground, which is faid to be the
fepulchral monument of this Earl. The monkifh tradition is, that St. Magnus con-
verted a dragon into this flone. This is as true as what they relate of his crofTmg the
Pcntland Firth ujwn a flone, and that the print of the faint's feet is vifible on the fame
Hone in the kirk of Burrich, in South Ronaldfhaw in Orkney.

N. B. In the hiftory of the family of Sutherland mention is made of one Sir Paul
Menzies, provoft of Aberdeen, who difcovered a filver mine in Sutherland, and found
it to be rich, but death prevented his working it. It feems he covered the place where
he found it, and no perfon of fkill has obferved it fince that time. It is probable that
Crcig-nargod is the place where this mine may be, and that this difcovery was the caufe
of this appellation j for I can fee no other rcafon for that name or d«fignation. Per-
fons of Ikill ought to examine thefe bounds. Creign-airgid, or the filver hill, is above.
Culinialie.

APPENDIX.— Number VI. •

T5<? Life of Sir Eiven Cunicrdn^ of Lochiel*.

SIR EWEN CAMERON was born in February 1629. He lived with his fofler-
father for the firit I'evcn years, according to an old cuftom in the. Highlands, whereby
the principal gtntlemen of the clan are entitled to the tuition and fuppjrt of their chio{*s
children durin'g the years of their pupillarity. The foflei -fathers were alio frequently
at the charge of thtir education during that period j and when the pupils returned

• Tl.is rri' moir, fo dtftriptive of the manners of the timc», and the wild war carritd on between the hero
of lh€ jjiicc nijd Cromwell's propit, wasi-omrr.»in:cattd to nic by a geiiticinan of Lochabcr. Itmtiits prc-
fervaiioii not folily on account of its ciiriolity ; b\it that it may prove an inlhuttivc IctTon to the prcfcnt
iuliabiianis of that cxtiiifivc tva^'^, by (luw itig the iiappinefs tliey may enjoy in the prefciit calm, alter the
U;:ig ftortn ut war and iifTiiflinatfua their forefathers were curfed with.

7 home.

■■i

I '(.££

1-4

'■■■a

.,1'

i )f

■.n

' ''?

■1:;

v'4

i6o

VENNAN'r'tf TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

home, tliefe fatliers gave fhew a portion equal to wliat they gave tlieir own children ;
as the portion confided in cattle, before they came to age it increaled to a confiderable
hcij^ht.

Before his years of pupillarity expired, he was put under the charge and management
of the Marquis of Argyle, the fame who was executed foon after the Rcftoration. The
Biarquis intending to bring him up in the principles of the Covenanters, put him to
fchool at Inverary, under the infpcdion of a gentleman of his own appointment ; but
yoi^ng Lochiel preferred the fport of the field to the labours of tlie fchool. Argyle
obfcrviug this, brought him back to himfelf, and kept a watchful eye over him, carrying
him along witli him wherever he went.

After the defeat of the royalills at Philiphaugh in 1645, it happened that as the par-
liament lat at St. Andrew's, on the trial of the prifoners of dillinttion there feized,
Lochiel, who went there with the marquis, found means to pay a vifit to Sir Robert
Spotfwood, one of the prifoners, a few days before his execution. Then and there it
was he received the lirlt intelligence concerning the flatc and principles of parties in
Scotland. Sir Robert, happy to fee his young vifitant, the ion of his old acquaintance
John Cameron, took the opportunity to relate, in an eloquent manner, the caufes of the
prefent rebellion, and its hillory from its firft breaking out, with a view of the tempere
and characters of the different fadions that had confpired againft the crown. He ex-
plained the nature of our conftitution, infilled much on the integrity and benevolence
of the King, but inveighed bitterly againil his Scotch e.iemies ; and concluded with ex-
prefling his allonifliment how Lochiel's friends could put him under the charge of
Argyle, and conjuring him to abandon that party as foon as he could. This difcourfe
had fuch an impreflionon the mind of Lochiel, that it continued all his life-time.

Some time after, Argyle addreffed his pupil in a different tone, but had little influ-
ence over him : he never could be fatisfied why fo many brave fellows were executed,
as he heard no confeflions of guilt, as thieves and robbers are wont to make ; but dying
with the courage and refolution of gentlemen. After this Lochiel was anxious to return
to his countr)', inflamed with a defire of exerting himfelf in the royal qaufe, and of
joining Montrofe for that end. Upon the application c-^ ir's uncle Breadalbane, and the
Camerons, Argyle parted with his pupil ; and he rt-tur aed to Lochaber to head his
clan in the 1 8th year of his age.

An opportunity of acling the chief foon occurred. Clcngary and Reppoch, heads of
two numerous tribes of the M'Donalds, refufed to pay Lochiel certain taxtations for
fome hinds they held of him : Lochiel arnud a body of the Camerons, with a view to
compel thcni. Gleugary and Reppoch, finding hiin thus bold and refoUite, thought
proper to fettle their afl'airr. amicably, and gave him no fur'her trouble for the future.
By fuch determined conduct, Lochaber enjoyed a profound peace for fome little time,
wliile the whole, of Scotland bcfides was a fccne of war and bloodflied.

In 1651 Lochiel was honoured with a letter from King Charles 11., inviting him and
his clan to ufe and j r thcmfclves in arms, for the relief of their country and fbvcreign ;
in confequence of which, c.uly in Ipring 1652, after colletffing his men, he was the
firft who joined Glencairn, who had jufl then fV-t up the royal flandard in the Highlands.
In the diflerent encounters his lordfhip and the royalifts had with Lilburne, Morgan,
and others, Lochiel difplaycil more condutl: ami vigour than could be expected from
one fo young, and as yet unexperienced in the art of war. He dillinguifhed himlcif in
a particular manner in a ikirmifh which happened between Glencairn and Col. Lil-
burne at Braemar, where he was polled at a pafs, which he defended with great fpirit,
till Glencairn and his army retreated to a place of fecurity. Lilburne, in the mean time,

getting

pennant's tour IM SCOTLAND.

i5i

getting between Lochiel and the army, and finding it impofllble to draw out the gene-
ral to an engagement, made a violent attack upon Lochiel : Lochiel, after making a
bold refiftance lx)r ibme lime, at laft retreated gradually up the hill, with his face to the
enemy, who durft not purfue him on account of the ruggedncfs of the grountl, and the
fnow that then covered it. Glencairn's army was at this time full of fadions and divi-
lions, occafioncd by the number of independent chiefs and gentlemen in hh army, who
would not ccndefcend to fubmit to one another either in opinion or action. Loclii.?!
was the only pcrfon of diftindion that kept himi'elf dii'engaged from thefe fadions ; for
in order to avoid them, he always chofe the moft diitant parts, where his frequent fuc-
cefles had endeared him to the general, who recommended him in a Itrong nu.nncr to
the King, as appears by the following letter his majefly fent him.

*' To our trufty and well-beloved the laird of Lochiel.

*' Charles R.
" Trufty and well beloved, we greet you well. We are informed by the Earl of
Glencairn with wh? ^ notable courage and afFedion to us you have behaved yourfelf at
this time of tryal, when our intereft and the honour and liberty of your country is at
ftake ; and therefore we cannot but exprefs our hearty fenfe of fuch your good courage,
and return you our princely thanks for the fame ; and we hope all honeft men who are
lovers of us and their country will follow your example, and that you will unite toge.
ther in the ways we have direded, and under that authority we have appointed to
ccndud you for the profecution of fo good a work, fo we do affure you we fhall be
ready, as foon as we are able, fignally to reward your fervice, and to repair the loffes
you fliall undergo for our fervice, and fo we bid you farewell. Given at Chantilly,
Nov. 3, 1653, in the fifth year of our reign."

When General Middleton came from Holland, 1654, to take the comtiiand of the
king's troops in Scotland, Lochiel joined him with a full regiment of good men, while
many of the other heads of clans made their peace with General Monk^ who had
marched into the Highlands at the head of a fmall army, giving another compofed of
horfe and foot to General Morgan. Many trifling conflids enfued between thefe two
generals and the Highlanders ; but Lochiel being of the party who had oppofed Mor-
gan, an adive and brave officer, run feveral hazards, and encountered many difficulties;
but his prefence of mind and refolution never forfook him.

Monk left no method unattempted to bribe him into a fubmiiTion. Thefe propofals
were fo engaging, that many of his friends importuned him to accept of them ; but he
defpiled them all, and would not fubmit. Monk findini^ all Lis ai -v.p' iactiedual,
refolvedto plant a garrifon at Inverlochy, where Fort Willi mi now Hands, in order >
keep the country in awe, and their chief at home. Lochiel b ing iinormed of this di:-
fign, thought the moft advifable plan would be to attack the enemy on their march
from Invernefs, imagining they would come iVom that p'ace or that way ; but the fud-
den arrival of the Englifti at fea difconccrted all his mcaiures. They brought v.jth
them fuch plenty of materials, and were in the neighbourhood of [o much wood, that
in a day's time after their landing, Col. Bigan, their commander, and the governor of
the new fort to be ercded, had fecured his troops from all danger.

Lochiel faw all their motions from a neighbouring eminence, and feeing it impradi-
cable to attack them with any probability of fuccefs, retired to a place three miles weft-
ward, to a wood on the north fule of Lochiel, called Achdulcw ; from this he could
have a full view of his enemy at Inverlochy. All his men he dilmilTed to remove their
cattle farther from the enemy, and to furnifli theiufelves with provifions, excepting

VOL. 111. V about

1 62

pennant's tour IV SCOTLAND,

about thirty-eight peiTons whom he kept as a guard. He alfo had fpies in and about the
garrifon, who informed him of all their tranfadions. Five days after their arrival at
Inverlochy, the governor difpatched three hundred of his men on board of two veflels
which were to fail weftward a little, and to andior on each fide of the (hore near Ach-
da.lew. Lochiel heard their defign was ro cut down his trees and carry away his cattle,
and was determined if poflible to make them pay well for every tree and every hide :
favoured by the woods, he came pretty c' fe to the fliore, where he faw their motions
fo pcrfe£lly that he counted them as they came out of the fhip, and found the number
of the armed exceed one hundred and forty, befides a number of workmen with axes
and other inftruments.

Having fully fatislicd himfelf, he returned to his friends to afk their opinion. The
younger part of them wore keen for attacking ; but the older and more experienced
remonftrated againft it, as a moiT: rafli and hazardous enterprife. Lochiel then enquired
of two '.i the party, who had fcrved for fome time under Montrofe, if ever they faw him
engage on fo difadvantageous t.rms; they declared they never did. He, however,
animated by the ardour of youth, or prompted by emulation (for Montrofe was always
in his mouth), infifled, in a fliort but fpirited harangue, that if his people had any re-
gard for their king or their chief, or any principle of honour, the Englifli fhould be
attacked : " for," fays he, *' if every man kills his man, which I hope you will do, I
will anfwer for the reft." Upon this none of his party made further oppofition, but
begged thar he and his brother Allan fliould fbnd at a diftance from the danger: Lo-
chiel could not hear with patience the propofal with regard to himfelf, but commanded
that his brother Allan fliould be bound to a tree, and that a little boy iTiould be left to
attend him ; but he foon flattered or threatened the boy to difengage Iiim, and ran lo
the confli^^.

The Camerons being fome more than thirty in number, armed partly with mufquets,
and partly with bows, kept up their pieces and arrows till their very muazles and points
almoft touched their enemies' breads, when the very tir(t fire took down above thirty.
Then they laid on with their fwords, and laid about with incredible fury. The Englifli
defended themfelves with their mufquets and bayonets with great bravery, but to little
purpofe. The fkirmifli continued long and obflinate ; at la(t the Euglifli gave way,
and retreated towards the (hip, with their faces to the enemy, fighting with alionifhiug
refolution. But Lochiel, to prevent their flight, commanded two or thr^e of his men
to run before, and from behind a bufli to make a noil'e, as if there was unother party of
Highlanders to intercept their retreat. This took fo effedually that they flopped, and
animated by rage, niadnefs, and dcfpair, they renewed the fkirnifli with greater fury
than ever, and wanted nothing but proper arri.s to make Lochiel repent of his ftrata-
gem. They were at lail, however, forced to give way, and betake themfelves to their
heels: the Camerons purfued them chin deep in the fea; 138 were coimted dead of
the Englifh, and of the Camerons only five were killed.

In this engagement Lochiel himfelf had feveral wonderful efcapes. In the retreat of
the Englifh, one of the flrongofl and bravefl of the officers retired behind a bufli, when
he obferved Lochiel punuing, and feeing him unaccompanied with any, he leaped out
and thought him his pre). They met one another with equal fury. The combat was
long and doubtful. The Englifh gentleman had by far the advantage in (trength and
iize ; but Lochiel exceeded him in nimblenefs and agility, in the end tript the fword
cut of his hand : upon which his antagonifl flew upon him with amazing rapidity ;
they clofed and wre(tl?d till both fell to the ground in each other's, arms. The Eng-
lifh officer got above Lochiel and prelTed him hard j but flrf^tching forth his neck by

attempting

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

«<53

attempting to difengage himfelf, Lochiel, who by this time had his hands at liberty, with
his left hand feized him by the collar, and jumping at his extended throat, he bit it
with his teeth quite through, and kept fuch a hold of his grip, that he brought away
his mouthful ; this, he faid, was the *' fweetefl: bite he ever had in his life-time."^ Im-
mediately afterwards, when continuing the purfuit after that encounter was over, he
found 1 is men chin deep in the fea ; he quickly followed them, and obferving a fellow
on deck aiming his piece at him, plunged into the fea and efcaped, but fo narrowly that
the hair on the back part of his head was cut, and a little of the fkin rufHed. In a little
while a funilar attempt was made to fhoo; him : his foller-brother threw himfelf before
him, and received the (hot in his mouth and breafl:, preferring his chief's life to his
own.

In a few days afterwards, refolving to reti'.rn to General Middleton, he ordered all
his men to affemble and join him ; but while he waited for their return, he cut off
another party of the garrifon foldiers, who were marching into the country, at Auchen-
tore, within half a mile of the fort, killed a few, and took feveral prifoners. His former
engagements with the general obliged him at laft to join, which he did, with a great
number of his clan } but was not long with him when he had certain information that
the governor of Inverlochy availed hiinl'elf of Lochiel's abfence, by making his troops
cut down the woods, and colleft all the provifions in the country. His return to Loch-
aber being neceflary, Middleton agreed to it, upon condition he would leave the greatefl:
part of his men behind him. This he did, and fet out privately for his country with
only one hundred and fifty men. He foon found his information was too true : in
order to obtain redrefs, he ported his men, early in the morning of the day after his
arrival, in different parts of a wood called Stronnevifs, within a mile of the garrifon,
where the foldiers ufed to come out every morning to cut and bring :n wood. Four
or five hundred came in the ordinary manner. Lochiel, obferving them from a con-
venient part of the wood where he refted, gave the fignal at a proper time. His men
foon made the attack, the enemy were foon routed, and a great flaughter made ; one
hundred fell upon the fpot, and the purfuit wasi carried on to the very walls of the gar-
rifon. It is remarkable that not an officer efcaped, they being the only adive perfons
that made refirtance. Thus continued Lochiel for fome time a pelt to the garrifon,
frequently cutting off fmall detachments, partly by (tratagem, partly by force j but his
name carried fo much terror with it, that they gave him no opportunity for fome time
of doing them much harm.

General Middleton being at this time extremely ur,fuccefsful in fome of his adven-
tures, particularly in an adion fome of his troops had lately with Major-general Morgan
at Lochgarry, where they were totally defeated, fent an cxprefs to Lochiel fupplicating
his prefence, that meafures mighf ^ ^ concerted how to conclude the war in an honour-
able manner. Lochiel refolved ;;o at the head of three hundred men, and made the
proper preparations for his journey with all imaginable fecrecy ; yet the governor gets
notice of his intended expedition, and orders Morgan if pofTible to intercept him. Mid-
dleton was at Brae-mar, in the head of Aberdeenfliire, between which pluce and Loch-
aber there is a continued range of hills for upw;\rds of one hundred miles. Over thel'e
did hctia. V.I, flccping in fliellings, (huts which the herds build for fhelter when .'i "'^e
mountains) on beds of he ''er with their crops turned inwards, without any cov •'n^
but his plaid. In the courfc ot this expedition he ^ - ; "ke to be furprifed by the aftivitj of
Morgan once and again ; but getting up to the top-; of the mountains, he always efcaped
the enemy, but frequently not to their profit, as bis men often run down the lill, and
after difcharging a few pieces or arrows among themj wi .; i as eafily afcend:

Y a Soon

IJ'InIJI

■.I

l64

PIVNANT's tour in SCOTLAND.

Soon after his juniflion witii Middleton the war was given over, and Middleton re.
tired to France, having prefeni.'d Lochiel with a mofl: favourable declaration, figned at
Piinvcgan, in Sky, March 31, 1665. But though the war was thus given over in ge-
neral, and many of the nobility and heads of clans had i'ubmitted to Monk, upon getting
their eflatcs rcflored, Lochiel iUll ftood out, not able to bear the infolcnrc of the troops
quarterod in a g-^rrifon fo near him. For the governor, encruiUfj^^ed ry the departure
of Middleton, and taking th.' advantage of Lochiel's abfen' ■ in Sky, ulctl to a!iow his
officers to go out frequently sii hunting parties, well guarded v:uh ,\ good nuiabrr of
armed men, deftroyinii- the g;\;np. Lochiel, on his return, havioj^j learned this', ! on
put a ftop to their inf \v nee ; ibr convening ;! party if the ' !.\"n^rort ,^ ht itclieJ ' nc
day at a convenient place, whiL- he fawor • of ihefe K anting parses coming towajoii the
hill whoi'^on he fat, and havin^.; divided his men, an 1 give'' *.".i m proper inftructions,
the attack was made with fuccel;. : moll of th' party wtrt Hain, and the reft taken pri-
fpnci s. 'i ho \oiii of fo many office! " afforded new matter of grief and aflonilhmerr lo
she governor, and prompted hun to make fvune av tempts to obtain red- Is, jut t.ey
were all in vain. He, however, by this time bf eame ,icqj<uifted with the fituarion and
7,'iaimers of vhecouiury, ;?iid procured a number of m^ rcenarv defp'M'^idr,?'^ around him,
viio gave I'in txa«9: iuit lligence of whatever happer?d. This ohiigea ^ .ochiel ?o flit
his quar'crs r> n farther diltance iiom the fort, while he employee" luch of his cian as
contintiod fai ' 'V.i, :;s ciniater-fiiies near the garrilbn ; and by their means the refolu-
tioiis and plans of !h( ,..:ovcrno! v;cre not only made public, but many of his fpies were
dciectei and ap}:v, S, jsdc.i v-Koni I^ochicl ordered to be hung up, without any ceremony
or forty, o' iriai..

Soo/i aUi.r his i ncountcr N^ith the imnting party, an cxprefs came to him from the
laird of M'Nauiilitin, a true royalifl in Cowal, a country oppofite to Inverara, in Ar-
gylefiiire, acquainting him that there were in that country three Englifh and one Scotch
colonel, 'vith other officers, who were deputed by Generai Monk to furvey the forts
and foiiified places in that part of the Highlands ; and that it waspoflible to feize them
with a few flout fellows. Lochiel, rejoiced at this intelligence, picked out one hundred,
choice Canierons, with whom he marched for Cowal, ilill keeping the tops of the
mountains, left his defigns fliould be difcovered and publifhed. There he met his
friend M'Naughtin, who informed hiu\ that the officers lay at a certain inn, well guarded
vith armed foldiers. Upoa which he gave the proper orders to his men, who exe-
cuted them with fo much cxiiedit.'on and fkill, that the officers, fervants, and foldiers
^vere all apprel.cnded, and carried, almofl without halting, to a place of fecurity, before
they well knew where they were. This place was a fmall ifl.md in Loch-<Jrtaick, a
frefli-water lake twelve miles in length, about ten miles north of Inverlochy.

The prifoncrs, though teiriiicd at firll, were foon undeceived. The horrible execu-
tions which Lochiels men made in the fjveral rencounters they were engaged in, made
his enemies believe hi:a lo be cruel and fangulnary in his difpofitio!! ; btif t'.e gentle
treatment and the great civility the prifoners met with foon convinced them of the con-
trary : he omitted nothing that could contribute to their happinefs ; but particularly
he propoftd and exhibited f:.'veral hunting matches, which gave them great '■atisfaition.
During their imprifonment, they took the liberty now and then to reprefent-to !,oehiel
the expediency and the prudence of a featy with the gener , He Pt lirll rejected the
motion, anJ fcorned the advice ; but being ofun rcpeate.*. he began to give way to
their n.'afoi.lngs, but flill faid that no wife man fliould ir .is fafety in the hands of
their prcteiuled protedor, whole whole life was a continur- , .' of ambition, rebellion,
hypucrify, and cruelt, ml timt thovigh he was a.!.. . iittle for the fervice of the

Kirt-

PENKANT's tour in SCOTLAND.

165

King or Ins country, yet would he always preferve his confcience and honour nnftained,
till erhaps a more favourable opportunity of rellorin^^ the King might ofler. Thefe
conferences being often renewed, brought Lochicl to declare himfeif in r\ more favour-
able manner. For the truth is, that he difeniblcd his fentiments at fird, wanting no-
thing fo much as an honourabh treaty ; for his country wasimpovcriflied, and his peo-
ple almod ruined. He Hill, however, protefied, that before hi:; would confcnt to dilhrm
himfeif and his clan, abjure his King, and take oaths to the Ufurper, he would live as
an outlaw and fugitive, without regard to confequences. To this it was anfwered, that
if he only ihewed an inclination to fubmit, no oath Ihould be required, and he fhould
have his own terms.

In confequence of this affirmation, Lochiel, with the advice of his friends, made out a
draught of his conditions, which were tranfmitted to General Monk, by Colonel
Campbel, one of the prifoners, he having given his word of honour he would foon re-
turn. Upon receipt of this, the General made out a new fet of articles, of much the
fame nature with the draught fent, which he returned to Lochiel, fignifying to him, if
he agreed tht-reto they would ftand good, otherwife not. After fome little ahcrations,
Lochiel confcnted, and the Marquis of Argylc became his guarantee. This treaty was
burned in a houfe of Lochiel's, which was confumed by accident. However, the mofi:
material ariicles are preferved in Monk's letters to him, and are as follows.

* No oath was required of Lochiel to Cromwell, but his word of honour to live in
peace. He and his clan were allowed to keep their arms as before the war broke out,
they behaving peaceably. Reparation was to be made to Lochiel for wiiat wooil th"
Governor of Inverlochy cut on his grounds. A free and full indemnity was granted
him for all riots, depredations, and crimes committed by him or his men preceding the
prcfent treaty. Reparation was to be made to the tenants for all the lolTcs they fuf-
taincd from the garrifon foldiers. The tithes, cefs, and other publick burdens which
had not been paid during the wars, were remitted on condition they Ihould be paid af-
terwards, with feveral others of the like nature.* All that was demanded by Monk of
Lochiel, was, that he and his clan fiiould lay down their arms in the nan)e of King
Charles II, before the Governor of Inverlochy, and take them up again in name of the
States, without mentioning the protector; that he would afterwards keep the peace,
pay public burdens, and fupprefs tumults, thefts, and depredations.

Thefe articles being agreed to, and fubfcribed by Monk and Lochiel, the prifoners
were difcharged, but Lochiel begged they would honour him with their prefence at the
ceremony of layuigdown their aims, which they complied with. Having con^'ened a
refpedable number of his clan, he ranged them into companies, under the command of
the captains of their refpective tribes, and put himfeif at thtir head. In this m;inner he
marched to Inverlochy, in the fame order as if going to battle, pipes playing, and
colours flying. The Governor drew out the foldiery, and put them in order on 11 plain
near the fort ; placing them on two lines oppofite to the Camerons. Lochiel and the
Governor firft ialuted each other as friends. The articles oi'the treaty were then read,
and the ceremony of laying down and taking up the arms performed. Both parlies
afterwards parti, ok ot a fpicndid en ertainment, prepared by the Governor for the oc-
^ahon to the gre;\t fcitisfadion of all prcfent. Thuc did Lochiel, the only chief in the
Highlands ihat continued to fupport the royal caufe after it was agreed the war fhould be
• "ven ov°r, at lad fubmit in an honourable way. Monk i' nt him a letter of thanks for
his chearful .'om^liaucc, dated at l.alkcith, 5 June 1655. f,

During tii- remaining part i.f Ohver's life, and the reigns of King Charles II. and
James .U., Lochi J lived chiclly at home, in a broken kind of tranquillity, occafioned by

7 '"C

: if

■ ;<:.

■tm

i :

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

the diftraftionsof the times, and the pretenfions of neighbourinp; Chiefs and Lairds to^
parts of his eftate : but lie always {hewed fo much prudence and courage on every
emergency, as gained him the friendfhip of the great and the elleem of all. He was
lield in particular favour by the two brothers Charles and James, and received from them
many marks of their royal regard. It may not be unworthy the attention of the curious
to narrate the following incident.

Lochiel and the Laird of M'Intofh had a long difpute concerning fome lands inLoch-
aber. M'Intofh claimed them in confequence of a grant of them he had from the Lord
of the Ifles, afterwards confirmed by K. David Bruce : Lochiel's plea was perpetual pof-
feflion. The conted was often renewed, both at the law courts and by arms. Many
terms of atcommodation were propofed to the contending parties but in vain. King
Charles II. himfulf would needs be the mediator ; but nothi.ig but fuperior force would
prevail. In 1665, M'Intofli, with his own clan and the M'Pherfons, convened an army
of 1500 men, with which he fcts out for Lochaber. Lochiel, aided by the M'Gregors,
raiies 1 200, 900 of which were armed with guns, broad fwords and targets, and 300
with bows and arrows. (It is remarked, this was the lafl: confiderable body of bow-
men that ever was feen in the Highlands.) Jufl as they were in view of one another, and
almoft ready to fight, the Earl of Breadalbanc, who was ccufingemian to both, arrived
at the head of 300 men, and immediately fent for the two chiefs. He declared who-
ever (hould oppofe the terms he was to orter, he fliould join the contrary party with all
his power, and be his foe while he lived. Accordingly propofals of agre inent were made,
and fubmitted to by both parties. Lochiel continued in poflcfrion 1 f the lands : for
which a fum of money was given to M'Intofli, to renounce all claims for the future.
The articles of agreement were figned 20th September 1665, about 360 y>ars after the
.commencement of the quarrel ; and next day the two Chiefs had a friendly meeting,
and exchanged fwords. The leading gentlemen of both clans performed the fame
friendly ceremony.

It mud appear il range, that now not a bow is to be feen in the Highlands, nor any
propenfity towards that kind of armour. One might imagine, when thediiarming aft
took place, bows and arrows would have been a good fubflitute for guns ; and, if I
recollect right, there is no prohibition of bows in the aft.

At the revolution. Sir Ewen, who was always prepodelfod in favour of the heredit-
ary rij/.hr, and particularly for James, whofe friendfliip he had often experienced, and
was refolvedto fupport his caufe, as far as ho could, at all ha'sards. In this refolution
he was confirmed by a letter he had from James, dated 29 March 1689, then in Ire-
land, foliciting his aid, and that of his friends. Upon receipt of thir letter, he vifited
all the neighbouring Chiefs, and wrote fo thofe at a diitance, communicating to them
the King's letter, and calling a general meeting to conrtrt what incafures ihould be
taken. They afll-iiibled on May 13th, near his liouio, and mutually jngagcd to one
another to fupport Iiis Majclly's intcrell ng.iintl ;ill invaders. Wlicn Viicount Dundee
got a cojnmilTion from King James to coiumatid his troops in Scotland, Lochiel joined
him with his clan, notwithitaiuiing that General M Kay made him great offers, both in
Uioncy and titles, to abandon James's intorell.

He made a difliii'^uilhed fi;.^ure at the fkirmifli of Kiilicrankie, under Lord Dundee
againft (Icneral M'Kay, though then ah )ve the age of fixty-three. He was the molt
fanguinc man in th • council for fighting ; and in the battle, though plS^'ed in the centre
oppoftte to Cener.d M'Ka)'s own regi;nent, yet Ipokc ho to his men one bv one, and
took their Icvcral engagements cither to conquer or die. Juft as they b ■g:m to fight, he
iell upon this llratagem to encourage his men : lie commar^'ed fuch cf Lie Camcrons as

5 W'.-re

tLM

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND. iGj

were podniU near him to make a great fhout, which being feconded by thofe who flood
on the right and left, run quickly through the whole army, and was returned by the
enemy. But the noife of the mulquets and cannon, with ihe echoing of the hills,
made the Highlanders fancy that their (houts were much louder and brilker than that of
the enemy ; and Lochiel cried out, " Gentlemen, take courage, the day is ours : I
am the olded commander in the army, and have always obferved fomething ominous and
fatal in fuch a dull, hollow, and feeble noife as the enemy made in their fliout, which
prognofticates that they are all doomed to die by our hands this night ; whereas ours
was brifk, lively, and flrong, and (liews we have vigour and courage." Thefe words,
fpreading quickly through the army, animated the troops in a ftrange manner. The
event juHified the prediftion : the Highlanders obtained a complete victory. The
battle was fought 16S9. Lochiel continued for fomctime with that army ; but being
dilTatisfied with theconduft of Cannon and fome of the principal officers, retired to
Lochaber, leaving his fon in his place during the reft of the campaign.

When terms of fubmiflion were offered by King WilHam to the outftanding chiefs,
though many were glad to accept of them, yet Lochiel and a few others were deter-
mined to (land out, until they had King James's permiffion, which was at laft obtained,
and only a few ^ays before King William's indemnity expired.

There is nothing elfe memorable, in the publick way, in the life of Sir Ewen Cameron.
He outlived himfclf, becoming a fecond child, even rocked in a cradle ; lb much were
the faculties of his mind, and the members of his body, impaired. He died A.D.
1718.

APPENDIX.— Number VIL
0/ the Majfacre of the Colquhouns.

IN the Baronage of Scotland, by Sir Robert Douglas, it appears that in the years
159+ and 1595, the clan of M'Gregors with fome of their lawlefs neighbours, came
down upon the low country of Dumbartoni.i re, and committed vaft outrages and de-
predations, cfpecially upon the territories of the C lof'-ouns.

In 1602 Humphry Colquhoun raifed his vafliils pmi followers to oppofe them, and
was joined by many of the gentlemen in the neighbourhood. Both parties met in
Glenfrone, where a bloody conflid enfued.^ They fought with great obftinacy till night
parted them, and many brave men were killed on both fidts, but the Colquhouns ap
pear to have been >vor(ted. The Laird of Colquhoun cfcaped, and retired to a llron^'
caftle ; but was clofely purfued by a party of the enemy ; they broke into the caftle,
and found him in a vault, w'uore they inftantly put him to death with many circum-
itances of cruelty. In the month of February it was that this Humphry Colquhoun
was flain ; at which time the young noblemen and gentlemen who were at fchool at
Dumbarton came as fpeftators to fee the battle of Glenfrone, but were notfuffered to
approach near the danger, but were ftiut up in n barn by the Colquhouns for iiifety.
The M'Grcgors prevailing, are faid afterwart'- -. ;uve bi;rbiroufly put them all to

death.

This is the account given by the hiftorianof the family of Lufs, but Mr. Buchanan *
afierts that the Laird of Lufs efcaped from the battle, and was afterwards killed in
Bcnachra CatUe by the M'Farlanes, through influence of a certain nobleman whom
Lufs had difobligcd.

* Surnarat s of clan?, p. 14

3' '"'Ij
'■''1

i63

PLNKANT's tour in SCOTLAND.

Let thefe fiitls llaiul as related by ihe partizans of each houfe, but from tlie various
Ai^ts of council, and the groat feverity of them, and by the frequent confinniuion of them
by acls oi p;ir!iaincnt for nearfixty years afterwanls, under dilfercnt princes and differ-
ent influence--, tlie nectllity of the fupprcffionof this unhappy clan, for the common
good, IS fully evinced.

The humanity of the prcfent legiflature did the laO year repeal thefe fancuinary aifls ;
alledging, that the crul' '"'r.h're i-f them for fupprefling the name of Grcgour or
M'Grcjiur, areno^vui.. k, . \»i. and luxvc long ceafed.

Miles.

AITENDIX.— NuMDER VIII.
Itinerary.

Milt».

DOWNING,

21 Chcller, Det^ina, Devana, ^"^u...

Dovn, Anton, Rav. Chor.»g. Dcva,
colonia legio crelica vicefmu Va-
leria viclrix, R. C.
18 iN' ))tliwich,Condate, R. C.
8 A iiutsford,

I r AlucclcsfielJ,
lo Buxton,

13 Middleton,

I I Chellerfield,
16 Workf :i,

J 2 Tuxford,
8 Duihan; Ferry, on the Trent, Tri-
vonia fl. R, C.
10 Lincoln, Lindum, PtoL Anton. Rav.
Chorog. R. C.
6 Waflienbrough and back to Lincoln,
1 2 Spittle,
1 2 Glandford Bridge,
1 2 Barton,

Humber River, Abus, Pcol. R, C.
8 Hull,
8 Burton Conft.iMf,

22 Burlington Quay,

Its bay, Gabrantuicorum portuofus
fmus, Ptol. Porrus felix, R . C.

Its

- Flamborough Head, Briganfum ex
' -ma, R. C.
10 Hum man by,
10 Scarborough,
13 J Robin Hood's Bay,
6{ Whitby,
13 Skellin Dam,
Gifborough,
Stockton,
Tecs River, Tifis fl. R. C.

mouth, Dunum fmus, Ptol.
Durham,

Were River, Vedra fl. R. C.
Cheiler-lc-Street, Epiacum, R. C.
Newcaflle, P^ri' Aelii, Notit. Imp.
Tyne River Vedra. fl. Ptol. Tina ''.

R. C.
Morpeth,
Felton,

Alnwick, Alauna, Rav. Chorog.
Belford,

Berwick, Tucflls, Rav. Chorog.
Tweed River, Alaunus, Ptol. Tueda,
R. C.

9
10
16
16

Milet.

16 Old Cambus,
lo Dunbar, Lcdcne, Rav. Chor"
a fmali hill, and bar a po> >
thing.
6 North IjTwIck.
14 Pre II on Fein.-.
8 Fd.'nh;ir<Th.

SCOTI.AND.
m;i«.

9 South Ferry,
Dun, Firth of For»h, Bodcria, Ptol. Bodotria,

' an\ Taciti. R. C.

2 North I'crry,

Fife County, Horeflii, R. C. Caledonia,
\ Taciti.

15 Kinrofs,

20 Rumbling

pennant's tour in SCOTLAND.

l(»

Mil

Rumbl BriV, Caflle Campbell, and
back t>> Kinrofs,
13 CalUc Dupplin, Duablifis, Rav.
Chorog.

8 Perth, Orrca, R. C.

'lay River and its mouth, Taus, Taciti.
Tava Ml Ptol. R. C.

I SCOIIL',

I Lunkerty,
ij Diinkeld,
ao 'I'iiy mouth,
15 Cmrie on Loch-Rannoch,
20 Blair,

31; Through Glen-Tilt to InvcrcaulJ,
18 'I'lilloch,
15 Kinoaini,

9 IJiUichorie,
18 yXborJofH,

Doe River, Diva fl. Ptol. R. C'
Ythcn River, Ituua fl. R. C.
25 Bownel's,
27 Craigfton Caftle,
9 Bamtt,

Devron River, Cclnius fl. R. C.
8 Cullen,
32 Cadle Gordon,

Spey River, Celniuc fl. Ptol, Tueflls.
R.C.

8 Elgin, Alitacenon, Rav. Chorog.

10 Forres,

1 1 Tarnaway Caftle, Calder, Fort George,
Firth ot Murr;iy, Tuae, JEH. Ptol.

Varar. TElt. R. C.

1 2 Invcnu fs, Pteroton, caftra alata R. C.
10 Caftle Dunie,

18 Dingwall, Foulos,

Firth of Croinirtie, Lnxa. fl. R. C.
Rofsftiire, Crcones, R. C. The fame
writer places at Channery in this
county, Arx finiumlmp. Roia.
15 Ballinagnuan,
6 Tain, Caftra alata, Ptol.

9 Dornoch. Its Firth, Vara JEit. Prol.

Abona fl. R. C.

Sutherland County, Logi, R. C.
9 Duiirobin Caitlc,
8 Hclmfdale,

Ord of Caithnefs, Ripa alta, Ptol.

VOL. HI.

Milci.

Caithnefs County, Carnabii, Cattinf,
R. C. Virubium promoutorium,
R. C.
8 Langwall,

15 Clythe, Clythcncfs, Virvedrum prom.

R.C.

8 Thrumfter,
3 Wick,

Wick River, Ilea fl Ptol.

16 Duncait's or Dunglby Bay, and John

a Groat's Houfe,
Dunglby Head, Berublum promonto-
rium, Ptol. Caledonia cxtrema,
R.C.
Stroma Ifle, Occtis lufu!:!, R. C.
2 Canen)y, and back the fame road to
137 Invernefs,

Invernefs County, Calcdonii, R. C.

17 General's Hut,

1 5 Fort Auguftus,

Loch Lochy, Longus fl. R. C.
28 Fort William, R. C. places Banatia

near it.
14 Kinloch-Leven,

9 King's Houfc,
19 Tyendrum.
12 Dalmalie,

16 Inveraray,
22 Tarbut,

Loch-Lomond,
R.C.

Lincalidor Lacus,

8 Lufs,
12 Dunbarton, Theodofia, R. C.

Firth of Clyde, Glota, Taciti. Clotta
JEd. R. C.
15 Glafgow, Clidum, Rav. Chorog.
24 Hamilton, and back to Glafgow,
15 Kylfithc, .
18 Sterling,
8 Falkirk,

Calendar,
1 5 Hopeton Houfc,
1 1 Edinburgh,
18 Lcnton,
18 Bild,
18 Moftat,
18 Lockerby,

5 ENGLAND.

I 1:,

\: i m

17©

UNNAMt's tour 1M SCOTLAND.

ENGLAND.

Milri.

«i Longtown in Cumberland,

Netherby, Caflra cxploratorum. An
ton. Acfica, Rav. Chorog.
9 Carlifle, Lugavallium, Anton.
18 Penrith, Bercda, Rav. Chorog.
? I Shap in Wcllmorcland,
15 Kendal, Concanguiin, Notlt. Imp.
1 1 Burton, Cocciuin, R. C.

Mile..
1 1 Lnncader, Longovicus, Notit. Imp,

I. line River, Alanna, fl. R. C.
1 1 Gar(hin,q,
1 1 I'rcllon,
1 8 Wigan,
13 Warrington,
31 Chcftcr,

a I Downing in Flintfliire.

The ancient names of places marked R. C. arc borrowed from the late Dr. Stukc-
ley's account of Riclvard of Circnceflor, with his ancient Map of Roman Britain and
the Itinerary thereof, publilhed in 17.17. The reft from Mr. Horiloy's remarks on
Ptolemy, Antonine's Itinerary, Notitia imperii, and Ravennatis Britanniiv; Cliorographia.

^ TOUR

( '7' )

^ TOUR IN SCOTLAND, AND VOTAGE TO THE IIEBRi')£s /V 177a.

D^ TllOMAI PiNNANT.

TO SIR JOSRPH UANKS, flAROMET.

Dear Sir,

I THINK myfilf fo much indebted to you, for miking mc the vehicle for convey-
injT to the public ihc rich dilcovery of your lalt voyage, that I cannot (Jilpenfe with this
addrefs, the ufual tribute on fuch occalions. You took from me all temptation of en-
vying your fupcriorgood fonuuv.*, by tlie liberal declaration you made that the Hebrides
were my ground, and yourlelf, as you pleafantly cxprcfled it, but an interloper. May
I nu'et with fuch, in all my adventures !

Without lelTening your merit, let me fay that no one has lefs reafon to be fparing of
Iiis llores of knowledge. Few polfefs fo large a Hiare : you enji)y it without odenta-
tion; and with a facility of communication, the refult of natural endowments joined with
an immcnfity of obfcrvation, colleded in parts of the world, before, either of doubtful
cxidouce. or totally unknown. You have enriched yourfelf with the treafures of the
glol)e, by a circumnavigation, founded on the mod liberal and fcientiiic principles.

'I'lic (ixtccnth century received lullre from the numbers of generous volunteers of
rank and fortune, who, diltinguifliing thcmfelvcsby the contempt of riches, eafe, and
luxury, made the mod hazardous voyages, like yourfelf, animated by the love of true
glory.

In reward, the name of Banks will ever exid with thofe of Clifford, Raleigh and
Willoughby, on the rolls of fame, celebrated indances of great and enterprizing ipirits :
and the artlic Solander mud remain a fine proof th.it no climate can prevent the feeds
of knowledge from vegetating in the breafl of innate ability.

\ ou have had judly a full triumph decreed to you by your country. May your
laurels for ever remain unblighted ! and if Ihe has deigned to twine for me a civic
wreath, return to me the fame good widi.

1 am, with every due acknowlegemc

Dear Sir, your obliged, and u ^f^ o' '' nt humble Servant,

'.< ■ JMAS PENNANT.

Downing. '

ADVERTISEMF.N

THIS journey was undertaken in the fummt?r ol / ■ . oruc; to render more
complete my preceding tour ; and to allay thiit fpcciesoiiefti l'sne!i> that infeds many
minds, on leaving any attempt unfiniflied. Conicious of m; iciency in Icvcral re-
Ipeds, I prevailed on two gentlemen to favour me with tlie'. company, and to fupply
by their knowledge what I found wanting in myfeif.

To the Kev. Mr. John Lightfoot, ledurer of Uxbridge, I am obliged for all the bo-
tanical remarks icattered over the following pages. But it gives me great pleafursto
lay that he means to extend his favours, by loon giving to the public a Flora Scorica,
an ample enumeration and hidory of the plants, oblerved by him in the feveral places
we vilited. To Mr. Lightfoot, I mud join in my acknowledgenaents, the Rev. Mr.
John Stuart of K.illin, for a variety of hints, relating to cuftoms of the natives of the

z 2 Highlands,

'I 'I

"id
'If

172

-♦enkant's second Tour in scon and.

Fighlands, and of the iilands, which by reafon of my ignorance of tho F.rfc or Galic
language, muft have efcapcd my notice. To both I was indebted for all the conilorts
that arifo from the fociety of agreeable and worthy rcmpanions.

I muft not omit my thanks to the fevcral gentlL-nien who favoured me at dilTcrcnt
times with accounts and little hillories of the places of their roluUiice, or their environs.
To begin with the molt iOuthern, my bell acknowled;;L'meiUs are due to

Mr. Aikin, Surgeon, for the account of Warrington.

IMr. Thomas Weft, favoured me with fevcral things relating to the north of Lanca-
ftiire.

Dodor Brownrigg, the Rev. Dodor Burn, Jofeph Nicholfon F.fq. ; of Ilawkflicry,
and the Rev. Mr. Farilh of Carlifle, afforded me large fupplies relating to their counties
of Weftmoreland and Cumberland.

In Scotland, John ^laxwel, Efq. ; of Broomhohne, and Mr, Little cf Lan^;hohnc
favoured me with leveral remarks relating to Kikdale.

The Rev. Mr. .Taflray, minifter of Ruthwell, with a hillory ofhisparifli.

Sir William Maxwell, Baronet of SpringkclJ, with variety of drawings, found at the
Roman ftation at Burrens.

John Goldie, Elq. ; of Dumfries, fupplied mc with numbers of obfervations on that
town and county.

The Rev. Mr. Duncan Macfarlane of Drummond, with an account of his parifh.

Mr. John Golborn, engineer, with an account of Glafgow, and various mifcelUncous
remarks.

For the excellent account of Paifley, I am indebted to Mr. Francis Douglas.

The Rev. Mr. Gerfhom Stuart fentme materials for an account of the itlc of Arran.

Alexander Campbei I^fq. of Ballole, and Charles Freebaui Kfq. connnunicated
fevcral obfervations relating to the ifle of Hay.

Sir Jofeph Banks, Baronet, communicated to me his defcription of Stalla ; and per^
mitted my artiit to copy as many of the beautiful drawings in his colieclion, as would be
of ufe in the prefent work.

I muft acknowledge myfelf in a particular manner indebted to the Rev. Mr. Donald
Macquin of Kilmuir, in the ifle of Skie, for a mod inftructive correlpondence relating to
the ancient cuftomsof the place, and to its various antiquities. /\ fiuall part I have
niiogled with my own account ; but the greater (hare, in jullice to the merit of the
writer, I have delivered unmutilatedin the Appendix to the thiril volume.

The Rev. Mr. Dounic, Muiifter of Gair-loch, obliged mc with various remarks on
his neighbourhood.

The Rev. Mr. Donald Maclcod of Glenelg, the fame, refpeding his.

To Dodor Ramlay of Ediriburgh, I muit return thanks, for a variety offervices: to
Mr. George l*aton of the fame place, for an indefatigable and unparralleled afliduity in
procuring from all parts any inteiligeucc that would be of ufe to the work in view.

A TOUR

( m )

A TOUR, h^,:

fccond time, take my departure for the North,
'f fixnu Cheder ; u city without paralh'! tor the fmguhir finidure of the four prlr.ci-

N'Monday the i8th of May, for

>al

III

.'ts.

wiiich are asif cxcavatctl out oftlie earih, ami funiv many Let beneatli ll

lie

furface ; the carriages drive far Ix low tlu- level of tiie kitchens, on a line with ra!i;;e3 of
^hvps ; and over thcnijon each fide llie Itreets, ])a(reii;j;erH walk from end to end, i'ecure
fron: wet or heat, in j^alleries purloined from the firll floor of each houfc, open and
halullraded in front. The back courts of all t'.iefe houfes are level with the ground,
bu! to •.';o into any of the four llreets it is necellary to di. fcend a flight of feveral Heps.

'i'lie (h'c eis were once conlkh'rably deeper, as is a]iparent from the fliops, whofc
floors lie far below the prefent pavement. The lefi'er llrects and allies that run into the
i^reak r flriets, were Hoped to t!ie level of the bottoms of the latter, as is partieu'arly
vifible in Bridge-flreet. It is diflicuh to afllgn a real'on for.tlu fc hollowed ways : I can
only fuppofethem to have been the void left after the deflrudion of the ancient vaults
mentioned by an ancient hiflorian : " In this cyte, (Tays the I'olychronicon *,) ben ways
in^der erthe with vowtcs and llone-v.erke woiulcrly wrought thre chambred werkes : I
grave with old meiines names therein. There is alio Julius Ce/ars name wonderly in
flones grave, and other noble menius alio, witli the wrytyngc about :'* meaning the
altar and monumental infciiplions of the Romans.

The cathedral i 'till the reformation the church of the rich monaftery of St. Wcr-
burgh"! is an ancient fhudure, very ragged on the outfide, from the nature of the fri-
able red flonef with which it is built ; but Oill may boait of a mofl elegant Weftern
front ; and the tabernacle work in the choir is very neat : St. Werburgh's (lirine is
now the biHiop's throne, decorated with the figures of Mercian monarchs and faints ; to
whom the fair patronefs was a bright example, living nnmaculate with her hufl^and
Ceolredus, copying her aunt the great Ethelreda, who lived for three years, with not
lefs pnrity, with her good man Tonberclus, and for twelve with her fecond huiband,
the pious Prince Kgfrid. Hilfory relates, that this religious houfc was originally a
nunnery, founded A. D. 66c, by Wulpherus, King of the Mercians, in favour of his
daughter's indiipofitioir The nuns, m procefs of time, gave way to canons fecular j
and they again we.e difplaced by Hugh Lupus, nephew to the conqueror, 1095. and
their room fupplied by Benedictines.

The beauty and elegant flmplicity of a very antique Gothic chapter-houfe, and its
fmc vi flibule, merits a vifit from every traveller. The date of the foundation is uncer-
tain, but it feems, from the fnnilitude of roof and pilaflers in a chapel in the fquarc
tower in the caftle, to have been the work of cotcin.porary architeds, and thefe archi-
teds were probably Norman ; for the mode of fquare towers, with fquared angles, was
introduced immediately on the conquefl.

Thecloilters, the great refedory, now the free-fchool, and a gate-way of mofl: fingu-
lar ftruchire, are at prelent the fblc remains of this nionaflery. The ruins near St.
John's church are fine reliqucs of the piety of the times ; and the many columns, and

f'i

•■ ig

• Hlgdcn's Polychronicon, or rather that liy Roger Cel'rcnfis, a l^encdlAine monk of St. V\'erbiirgl)'s ;
from wliom Higdcii is laid to have lluleii the whole work. This Roger was coiemporary with Trivet,
who (111 (1 A. O. 1328.

\ Vile Royal, iy.

\ m

174 TENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

round arches within the church, moH: curious fpccimens of the clumfy ftrenqth of Saxon
architedure. The former are probab'y the reinains of the inonaftery of St, Mary,
founded by Randal, fecond E. of Chcdcr, for Bcncilic^ine nuns. The church was
founded by King Ethelred, in 689 : an uncoutli infcription on the walls informs us,
that * King Ethclred minding more thobliffeof hv.'aven, cdined a cjIIcJ ;c church not-
able and famous in the futiurbs of Chefter pleafant and beauteous in the lionour (Jf God
and the baptift St. John with the help of bifhop Wulfrice and good Excillion •.' It was
rebuilt in 90^, bv Ethelrcd, F.. of Mi-'rcia, after he had expe'led the Danes out of the
city. This was alfo the cathedral, until fupplantcd in 1 55 1 , by the church of the abbey
of St. Werburgh.

The caftle is a decaying pile, rebuilt by one of the Norman carls, on the fite of the
more ancient fortrcfs. The walls of the city (the only complete fpecimcn of old for-
tifications), are one mile three quarters, and a hundred and one yards in circumference,
and, being the principal walk of the inhabitants, are kept in excellent order. 'i"he
views from the feveral parts are very fine: the mountains of Flintfhire, the hills of
Broxton,and the infulated rock of Beellon, form the ruder part of the fccnery : a rich
ilat gives us a fofter view, and the prol'in d up the river towards Boughton, recalls in
fome degree the idea of the Thames and Richmond hill.

The Ilypocaud, r:'ar ihe Feathers inn, is one of the remains of the Romans, it being
well know that llii,; place was a principal Ration. Among many antiquities found here,
none is more fuigiilar thin the rud' fculpture of the Dea Armigera Minerva, with her
bird and altar, on the i\\cc of a r^rk is a iniall field near the Welch end of the bridge.

Cheder h; s beeit, at ditlini t limes, r[ p/jrc d'cjrmes, a great thorough-faro between
the two kingdoms, and the nTulenc' cfa numerous and poliflied gentry. Trade, till of
late years, was but little attenili d to, but at prefcnt elforts are making to enter into that
of Guinea, Am-, rica, and the Baitic.

Since the year 1736, and not before, great quantities of linen-cloth have been im-
ported from Ireland to each of the annual fairs : in that year 449654 yards ; and at pre-
ient about a million of yards are bnuij^ht to each fair. Hops are another great articl ;
of trade, for ab',veten ti-.oul'atid pockei;. are fold here annually, much of wliich is for-
warded to the neighbouring ill.uid. But the only llaple trade of the city is in ikins,
multitudes of which are imported, drclTcd here, but fcnt out again to be i:;aiiufachired.
Here is a well regulated poor-houfe, and an infirmary ; the la(t fupportcd by contribu-
tions from the city, its ciiunty, and the adjacent counties of North-Wales. The firlb
has happily th" leall ufe of this pious foundaiion ; for, wheth'r from th.^ drvnefs of the
fif.iation, the clearnefs ot the air, or the purity of the water, the proportion of deaths to
the inhabitants has been only as i to 31 ; whereas in London i in 20 and 3-4ths ; in
Leeds I in 2 and 3-5ths; and in Ni.rtliampton and S'.rewlbury, i in .16, annually
pay the great tri' ute of nat ircf. rvli;;ht 1 [w per-viitted to morauz-, I (h.nd.i call this
llie reward of tiie benevolent and chariahle di!po(itii>n. riiat is the char.ieteriltic of this
city ; for fuch is I'le (acri'ice tliat is plea; 'to the /\l iij-htv

About two miles from C'.heder, pa!s ov r Iloole hc.it'i, noti-d for having been one of
the placc'J of reception f )r Ihanger,^ ell.ibli.' d by Ilu^^h Lepus, in order' to people his
new doji.inicns. 'J'hisin particular was the alylum alloi;; 1 for th" fugitives ol' Wales.

Ride through the fmall town ot I'r.iP'ird : tliis, with ilie l.inllhip ol Newton, was, as
l)ai:itl King obllr^vs, one of the IwLxt niorlcL liiat the abbot of Sf. Wcrbur h ana his

• So trjTifl iteii fioni l,n:io auxlli'o.

f \ idc ilic oUcrva'.iuii* on iiiis lubjecft iT liiat litin'anc j-hjCician, my wi ithy rriciid, Dr. IIavg.irili.

J convent

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. I75

convent kept for their own wholefoine provifion. Get into a traft of fandy
C(. untry, and pafs beneath Hellefby-Tor, a high and bluff termination of Pelamere
forcd, compofed of the fame friable ftone as that near Cheller, but veined with yellow.
Hence a view of the jundion of the Wcever and the Merfey, and an extenfive traft of
marfliy meadow, with fome good and much rufhy grafs ; and beyond is the beginning
oi the wide eduary that flows by Liverpool.

Crofs a little brook, called Llcwyn, and reach Frodefliam ; a town of one long
flrect, which, with its caftle, was allotted by Edward I. to David, brother to Llewelyn,
lafl: Prince of Wal 's, as a retainer in his double perfidy againll his own biood, and hiiv
own country. Not a veilige is left of the caflle, which Itood at the welt end of the
town ; was latterly ufed as a lioufo by the Savages, and was burnt down in 1652, when
one of that name, an Karl Rivers, lay dead in it.

This as well as moft other towns and villages in Chefhire, flands on an eminence of
fand-flone, and by that means enjoys a fituation dry, wholefome, and beautiful.

The church flands at a vaft height above the town. In the regilter arc thefe two ve-
markable indanccs of longevity : March the 13th, 1592, was buried Thoui?s Hough,
aged 141 J and the very next day was committed to the earth, Randle Wiill, aged 103.
I ohferved alfo, that in the winter of 1 i;?^, the peftilence reached this fequeftered place,
for four are then recorded to have died of it. In ea' ly times that avenging angel fpread
deftrudion through all parts of the land ; but her power is now ceafed by tlie provi-
dential cefl'.uion of the natural caufes that gave rife to that moft dreadful of calmities.

Above the church is Beacon hill, with a beautiful walk cut along its fide. At the
foot are four butts (archery being fUllpradifed here) for an cxercife in which the war-
riors of this county were of old eminent. The butts lie at four, eight, twelve, and
fixteen roods diftance from each other : the laft are now difufed, probably as the pre-
fent raceofarchersprcfer what is called Oiort-fliooting *.

Crofs the Wecver, on a good ftone-bridge : from a neighbouring warchoufe much
chcefe is Ihipped off, brought down the river in boats from the rich grazing grounds,
that extend as far as Nantwich. The river, by means of locks, is navigable ior barges
as high as Wiuflow bridge ; but below this admits veffels of fixty tons. The channel
above and below is de.pand clayey, and at low water very difagrceable.

On the north banks are the runis of Rock favage, fuffered, within nisnion", to fall to
decay ; once the feat of a family oi' the fame name ; and not far remote, on the fame
range, is Alton, a go^d houl'e, finely fitiiated, but rendered too naked through the
rage of modern tadc.

About two miles farther on the riglit, is Dutton Lodge, once the feat oftheDuttons ;
a family in polleffion of a lingular grant, having " Magillerium omnium Leccatoruni
et meretri;:um totius Ci.nrolhire." This privilege came originallv fr nn Randal 6th
Earl of Cheder, to Roger Lacy, conitable of that city, who, when the Iv<\y\ was clofely
befieged by the Wellli in RuJland callle, coiledcd hadily for his relief a band of min-
llrels, and other idle people, and with them fucceeded in the attempt ; after which his
ion Johnailigned it to the Duttons, on-: of that name being ailii'tar.t in the affair.

Reach Ilalton cadle, leateil on an eminence, and given by Hugii Lujnis to Nigellus,
one of his officers, and founded by one of the two. Nigel held it by this honourable
and fpirlted fervice, that whenever the Larl made an expedition intn Wales, the Baron
of Halton fliould be foremoll in entering the country, and the lalt in coming out f. It

• I tliiiil; myfflf indebted 10 Mr. Robertfoiij libian'au to the Royal Sociiitj-, an uLl buIkt, for the
cnn\'C\ioii of this [lall'ij^io.
[■ Ulouiil's Ancient 'iViiuico.

became

1;76

PtNNANT's SKCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

becaiiu^ aftcrv/arJs the property of the houfc of Lancaftcr, and was a favourite hunting
Itat ol John of Gaunt. The caflleis a ruin, rxcopt a part kept as aprifon. It belongs
to tiio ik'.chy of Lai-cafler, and has Hill a court of record, and other privileges.

From tlie c.iille is the mod beautiful view in Chelhire ; a rich profped of the mean-
ders of ihe Mirfcy, through a fertile bottom ; a pretty wooded pcninfula jutting into it
oppofite to Runcorn; the ?,reat county of Lancalhire, fdled with hedge-row trees; and
bi yonJ f. ar the hills of Yorkfliire and Lancaihire ; and on tlie other fide appears Chc-
f lire, and ;he fliil loftier Cambrian mountains ; but clofe iioneath, near the church, is
ftill amor- pUjling view; tluit oi a row of neat alm-houi^•^:, for the reception of the
fiiperannuated f.. rvants of tile hnufe ol Norton, founded by the late Pufey Brook, Efq.,
my fri.'ud, and ihc friend of mankind.

Dei'ccnd tb.c hill, anJ. i\\:'t- by Norton, a good modern hnufe, on the Hie of a priory
of canons lobular of St. AujMiiline, foundvxl bv William, fi.n ot Nigellus, A. 1). 1135,
\\ho did net live to compkie his defign : for luifhice de Burgaville granted to Ilughde
("atherik ]ialture ior a hundivd flieep, in cafe he rmiflied the church in all refpedscon-
formal'Ie to the intent of the founder. It was granted at tlie dilfolution to Richard
Brook, Efquiie.

Continue my way along a (lat dull country, re;ich tlie banks of the Merfey, ride over
a long caufewav, ha\ing before me a perlici wood of lolly poplar, that fpeaks the foil;
and Warrington as it iti the midll of it. Kiiter

l.ancafliire, alter cri>ning a h;indl'ome itonc bridge of four arches, which leails into
the town, and was built by the ln-il I'.arl of Derby, to accouunodate Henry VIL, then
on his road on a vilit to his lordilnp, probably to footh the Karl after the ungrateful exe-
cution of nis brother, Sir William Jtanly. (t was at fird a tolbbiidge, but his lordfliip
generoully rcleafed the country from that tax, at a loi's of as many marks as was equi-
valent to tile portion olone of his daughters.

'1 he priory of the In rnn't friers of Auguiline, founded before 1379, flood near the
bridge, but not a relique cxills. The entrance into the town is unpromifn;g, the (Ireets
long, narrow, ill-built, and crowded with carts and paflengers ; but farther on are airy,
and of a good width, but afford a linking mixture of mean buildings and handfomc
houfes, as is (he cafe with tnofl tradiiig towns that experience a fudden rife ; not that
tliis place wants antiquity, for Leland fpcaks of its having a better market than Man-
chencr upwards of two hundred years ago. At that time the principal p;irt of the town
vas near the church, remote (rem the fridge, and was aectflible only by a ford, but
the conveniency of a fafer tranlit foon drew the buildings to that end.

The church li<is of lue undergone much alteration, but two of the anci'^nt fide-cha.
pels ftill remain : one belonging to the Mallits contains nothing but a fm.ill mural mo-
nument, wi h a ver/ amiable charader of IVancis Mafl'ey, K(q. lord of the manors of
Rixton and (jfilhioek, hill of the ancient f.imily, which as extinct with liini in 174S;
but in an oppoiite chaptl i^> a magnilicent tondj of Sir 'i'liomas Boteler and his iadv, ia
a!.d)after : ti.( ir effigies lie at top, hand in hand, he in armour, flie in a remarkable
mitr.dhap. d caj); rour.d the fides are various figures, fueh asSt.C'hrillophcr, St. George,
and other fuperllitiou Iculpture?--. The BotelefS were of great antiquity in tliis place ;
the firft took his name from being butler to Ranulf de Gernons, or Vlcfehines, Marl of
Chcder. His poftf-ity acquired great p fllilions in this county •, and one of them
obtaiiicd the ch..rt..is f>r 11 .i!k«.;siind lairs nt Warrington, from his prince Edward I.
Tradition fa}s that t"- Th-inas, then rcfidtnt at Beauly houle, near ttiis town, was,

Di!2'!:i!i:'i Burouagc, I. 653.

•ith

PP.NKANT S SECOND TOUR" IN SCOTLAND. 177

vith his lady, murdered in the night by affaflins, who croffed the moat in leathern boats
to perpetrate, their villainy.

Beneath an arch in the wall near this tomb is another, containing a figure in a long
robe, muflled up to the chin ; the head wrapped in a fort of cap, and bound with a neat
iillef.

Befides this church is a neat chapel of eafe, lately rebuilt, and many places of wor-
fliip for PrLibyterians, Anabaptifts, Quakers, Mcthodifts, and Roman Catholics : for
in manufafturing places it often falls out that the common people happily have a difpo-
fition to feek the Lord, but as unhappily difagree in the means of rendering themfelves.
acceptable to him.

Here is a free-fchool, very confidcrably endowed, and made very refpeftable by the
merits of the prefcnt mafter. An academy has of late years been eftabliflied in fhis
town, with a view of giving an education to youth on the plan of an umverfity.

The manufaflurcs of this plac^ are very confiderable ; formerly a great quantity of
checks and coarfe linens were maue here, but of late years thefe have given way to that
of polldavies, or fail-cloth, now carried on with fuch fpirit in the town and country)
as to fupply near one half of the navy of Great BJtain. The late war gave a great
rife to this branch, and a fudden improvement to the town,

I'he making of pins is another confiderable article of commerce ; locks, hinges, caft-
iron, and other branches of hardware, are fabricated here to a great amount : very
large works for the refming of copper are carried on near the town ; and the glafs and
fugar-houfes employ many hands. By means of all thefe advantages the town has been
doubled within thefe twenty years ; and is fuppofed to contain at prefent between eight
and nine thoufand inhabitants.

The manufaduros of this place are mofl readily conveyed down to Liverpool by
moans of the Merfcy. The Ipriiig-tides rife at the bridge to the height of nine feet^
and veflcls of foventy or eighty feet can lie at Bank-quay, the port of the town, where
warchoufcs, cranes, and other conveniences for Ihipping of goods are erected. I mult
not omit that thirty or forty thoufand bafliels of potatoes are annually exported out of
the rich land of the environs of Warrington, into the Mediterranean, at the medium
price of fourteen pence per buOicl. This is the root which honed Gerard, about two
hundred and forty years ago, fpcaks of " as a food, as alfo a meat for pleafure being
either roafted in the embers or (wiled and eaten with oile vinegar and pepper or drefled
Ibine other way by the hand of a fkiliul cooke *."

The faimou-lifliery is very confiderable, but the opportunity of fending them to Lon-
don and other places, at the bcj^inning of the fcafon, keeps up the price to about eight*
pence per pound, which gradually finka to three-pence or twopencc-halfpcnny, to the
great aid of the poor nianufadurcrs;. Smelts, or as they are called in all the north,
j'parliiigs, migrate in the fpring up this river in amazing fhoals, and of a iize fuperioi:
to th^'fe of other parts, fomc having been taken that wei;;;hed half a pound, and mea-
sured tlw'teen inclu's.

In this river is found a fmall fifli called the graining, in fomc refpeds rcfembling tho
dace, yet is a dilUnt^t and perhaps new I'pecies ; the uiual length is foven inches and a
half; it is rather more flendcr thaji the dace, the body is alinoft ftra'ght, that of the
other incurvated ; the colour of the fcales in this is filvery, with a bluilh call ; thofe of
the daoe have a yello. i' or greenifli tinge : tiie eyes, the ventral and the anal fins in
the graining are of a paie colour f.

Htrlal, yjS.

VOf,. Id.

t RaysInP. D. 8. P. P. 15. V.g. A. to. C 3<(.
A A

Make

i '«i.ijn

it8

PHNNANl- S SSCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Make a vifit to John IMackburne, Efq., at his feat of Oiford, a mile from Warrington ;
(line and lio tliorc. This gentleman from his earliefl; life, hkc another Evelyn, has made
his garden the employ and amuiement of his leifure hours, and been moll fuccefsful in
every part he has attempted : in hd:, he has an univerfal knowledge in the culture of
plants, lie was the fccond in tiiefe kingdoms that cultivated the pine-apple : has the
befl; fruit and the bcil kitchen-garden : his colleftion of hardy exotics is exceedingly
numerous ; and his collodion of hot-houfe plants is at leaft equal to any private collec-
tion in this kingdom. Me ncglc(^s no branch of botany, has the aquatic plants in their
prop'^r elements ; the rock plants on artificial rocks ; and you may be here betrayed
into a bog by attempting to gather thofe of the moral's *.

Mrs. Blackburne, his daughter, extends her refearches ftill farther, and adds to her
empire another kingdom : not content with the botanic, fhe caufes North America to
be explored for its animals, and has formed a mufeum from the other fide of the At-
lantic, as ploafmg as it is in(lru£live.

In this houfe is a large family pidure of the Aflitons of Chadderton, confifting of a
gentleman, his lady, cloven children living at that time, and three infants who died in
their birth : it was painted in the reign of James f. by Tobias Ratclilf ; but has fo little
merit, that I fliould not have mentioned it, but ^o add one more to Mr. Walpole's lift of
painters.

May 19. Pafs through Winwick, a fmall village, remarkable for being the richcll
redory in England : the living is worth 2300I. per annum ; the redor is lord of the
manor, and has a glebe of i 500I. annual rent. It is fingular that this county, the
-eventh in fizc in England, ha only fixty-one parifhes ; whereas Norfolk, the next in
dimenfions, has no fewer than fix hundred and fixty.

In the wall of an old porch before the rcdor of Winwick's houfe, is fafely lodged a
bible, placed there by a zvalous incumbent, who lived in tho days of Oliver Crom-
well, in order that at leaft one authentic book might be found, (liould the fanatics cor-
rupt the text, and dcftroy all the orthodox copies.

On the outfide of the church is this inicription, cut in old letters :

Hie locus OfwalJe, iiiioiitlam tibi placuit vaUlf ;
Nortli.iiiuinhroiiiiu tiur.is Kcx, i.iiiu(iuf poluiuni
Htgiia tfiics, I'rato pallus MaicclJc f vocato.
Anno niilleiio qiiiiigentfiioqiie Iricciu),
6clator poll Clinltiim rrnirum rtnovaveiat ilhim :
litriin'cus Juhiiltuii curaiiDi cial rmiuUiic tunc.

Ofwald was King of Northumberland ; the moft pious prince of his time, and the reftorer
ol the Chriftian rc'li5;ion in his dominions : at length, A. 1). 640, receiving a defeat
near Olwellry, by Penda, pagan King of Mercia, was there flain, his body cut in pieces,
and ftuck on poles by way of trophies.

At Redbank, bi.tween this place and Newton, the Scots in Auguft 1648, after their
retreat from Preftor , made a reloUite ftand for many hours againlt the vitloriou*j Clrom-
well, who, with great lofj uii hum fides, beat ihem from their ground, and the next
day made himfelf mafter of all their remaining infantry, which, with their commander,
Lieutenant general Bayiy, furrendered on the biire condition of quarter J.

• My refptfted and venerable friend, after a long and unfpotted life, died Dec. 19, 1786, aged 91,
■J Muftr-fitld, ncarOfwtftry, f Whitelock, 332. Ctarcadon, V. 16a.

Pafs

-■ *

i'j

pennant's second tour, in tCOTLAN'I).

'7<l

Pais through Newton, a fniall borough town : tlic country flat and fertIL*. On ap-
proaching Wiggan, obfcrvc fcveral fields quite white wiih thread, bleaching for the nii-
iiufa£tureof flrong checks and coarfe linen, carried on in that town and neighbourhood.

Wiggan is a pretty large town and a borough. It has long been noted for manu-
fafturesin brafs and pewter, which now give way to that of checks: an ingenious fellov.'
here turns canal coal into vafes, obelilks, and fnufi-boxes, and forms excellent black-
moors heads out of the fame material.

The beft crofs-bows are alfo made in this town by a pcrfon who fuccceded his father
in the bufmefs ; the laft coming there from Rippon about a century ago.

In the church is an infcription in memory of Sir Roger Bradfliaigh, of Ilaigh, an
eminent loyalid in the time of the civil wars ; and a tomb, much defaced, of a Sir Wil-
liam Bradmaigh and his lady Mabel, who lived in the reigns of Edward II. and III.
A remarkable hiftory attends this pair : in the time of the firfl monarch he fet out for
the holy land in quell; of adventures, and left his fair fpoufe at home to pray for his
fuccefs ; but after fome years' abfence, the lady thinking he made rather too long a flay,
gave her hand to Sir Ofmund Nevil, a Welch knight. At length Sir William returns
in the garb of a pilgrim, makes himfelf known to his Mabel, is acknowledged by her,
and fhe returns to her allegiance : Sir William purfues the innocent invader of his bed,
overtakes him at Newton-park, where my unfortunate countryman is flain. The poor
lady being confidcred as an acceffary to his death, is condemned to a weekly penance
of walking barefoot from the chapel in Haigh-hall, three miles difl;ant, to expiate her
crime, to a crofs near Wiggan, at this day called Mabel's crofs.

Not far from the town is the little river Douglafs, immortalized by the vldories of
our Arthur * over the Saxons on its ban^tv"?. This ftream in 17*7 was widened, deep-
ened, and made navigable by locks, almofl to the mouth of the Ribble ; and was among
the firfl of thofc projefts which have fince been purfued with fo much utility to the
inland parts of the kingdom. This canal conveys coal to fupply the north of the county,
and even part of Weitmorcland, and in return brings from thence limcftone.

On an eminence about a mile from Wiggan is Haigh, long the feat of the Bradfliaighs,
an ancient houfe, built at different times : the chapel fuppofed to be as old as the time
of Edward II. ; in the front are the Stanly arms, and beneath them thofe of the family,
which in all civil commotions had united with the former, even as early as the battle of
Bofworth field.

In this houfe arc fome excellent piftures : our Saviour with his difciplcs at Emniaus,
by Titian, with the landlord and waiter j a fine attention and refped is expreffed in the
countenances of the difciplcs.

A very fine head of Sir Lionel Tolmach, by Fr. 7Aichcro, on wood, fhort grey hair, a
forked beard, rofy complexion ; a beautiful i)indisfcneitiis.

VXiz. I/ady Dacres, daughter of Paul Vifcount Banning, relidl of Francis Lord
Dacres, created Counrtl's of Sheppy for life, by Ch. II. in 1680 ; a head on wood j a
blooming countenance.

A head, by Riley, of Sir John Guifo, great-grandfather to the prefent baronet j and
and another t f Lady Guife, by Kneller.

Charles I. in his robes.

Gcorjyc Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, in the robes of the garter, affaffmated by the
gloomy Felton.

A large equcltrian picture of Ch. I., a copy after Vaiidyck.

* Ilcniy of Huniingdon, 315.
A A 2

111

..-101

■sis

•4

I'^C

rPNNANT .1 Kr.CONI) TOUR IN SCOTLAIIO,

Hi'; d.uij^hi.'r, INT.iry Prinocfs of Orangi'. motlior to Kiii'i; William.

1 Kin y Sliirray, Klq. gvnlli.''m,m oFthi- boil-chumbcr to Ch. II. : his -laughter was mar-
riod to bir Kogor BiT,iHh,ii;^h, the H'coiul bart)nct.

Tliis iioiglibourhood abniiuls with tliiit lino fpi'ci'jsof coal called canal, perhaps candle
coal, tVoni its Icrviiicj as cheap light for the poor to fpin by durinjr the long winter
evcninj;s : it is ioiiiij in beds of about three feet in thicknels ; the veins dip one yar4
in twenty ; are found at great ilepths, with a black bafs above and below, and are fub-
jecl to the lame damps fiery and liiiTocating as the common coal. It makes the fwcctefk
of fires, and the molt cheerful : is very inflammable, and fo clean, that at Jlaigh hall a
fummcr-houfe is built with it, which may be entered without dread of foiling the lighted
cloaths.

Sir Roger Bradfliaigh, baronet, thelafl: of the male line, died on September 29, 1770.

On the death of his widow in — — , the feat and eftate fell to Lindfay, Earl of

Balcarras, in right of hi^ wife Dairy niple, great-grand-daughter to the third Sir

Roger liradfliaigh. lindeavours have been made to impute to this houfe the mfamous
regicide John liraddiaw.

Leaving Wiggan, obferve on the road fide, near the north end df the town, a monu-
ment, creded by Alexander Rigby, Efq., in memory of his gallant commander Sir
Thomas Tildedv, who was killed on this fpot in the engagement with Lambert, in 1650:
a faithful domeltic, fupporting his dying mafler, was iliot in that fituation by a rebel
trooper, v. ho was indantly pilloled by his generous officer, who abhorred the barbarity
even to an enemy.

Reach Standiih, a village with a very handfome church and fpire fleeple : the pillars
within (hew an attempt of the Tufcan order ; it was rebuilt in 1 584, and chiefly by the
afliilance of Richard Moodie, redor of the place, who maintained the workmen with
meat, at his own coft, during the time. He was the firft proteltant paftor, conformed
and procured the living by the cellion of the tythes of Standifh, probably thinking it
better to lofe part than all. He lies in efiigy on his tomb, drelTed in his francifcan habit,
with an iiifcription decl.irative of his munificence towards the church. In front of the
tomb are two fmall pillars with Ionic capitals, the dawning of the intioduftion of Gre-
cian architecture.

Here is a handfome tomb of Sir Edward \Vri;^litington, Kiii^ht, king's counfel : he
died 1658, and lies in alabalter recumb nt in his gown. A curious meniorial of i.d-
ward Chifnal, who was, during the civil wars, colonel of a regiment of horfe, and
another of foot ; and left there fhould be any doubt, the commillions are given in full
length upon wood. This .gentleman had the honour of defending Laiham-houle under
the command of the heroine the Courtefs of Derby.

At Mrs. Townley's, at Standifli-hali, are fame few reliques of the Arundel collef^ion,
particularly eight pieces of glafs, whh the labours of Hercules, moll exquilitely ciit on
them. A large filver fquare, perhaps thepanncl of an altar, with a moll beautiful relief
of the refurredion on it, bv P. V. 1605. Two tririkets, one a lion, the other a dragon,
whofe bodies are formed of two vaft irrejjular pearls.

M. keanexcurfion four miles on the weit to Holland, a village \\h re formerly had
been a priory of iienedidines, founded by Robert de Holland in 1 ^if),out of th colle-
giate chapel, before ferved by canons regu'ar. Nothing remains at prelent but the
church, and a few walls. The pollerity of the founder role to the greattfl honours
tlurii gfeveral of the following turbulent reigns j but thole honours wi re ttended vith
the greatdl calamities. Uobert himfelf, firll lecretary to Thuinas of \V( otKlccU, Kurl
of Laucaller, after betraying his mafter, loll his head, by the rage of ilie people, m 'he

1 4 bo^uuiuig

PENNANr a SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

i8i

bcjrlnnlns of the reign of Edward III. His poftprity, many at leafl of them, were
equally unfortunate : 'I'homas de Holland, Duke of Surry, and Earl of Kent, fell in the
fame manner at Circncfller, by the hands of ihc townfnu'n, after a rafh infurreftion, in
order to rcflore his niaflcr, Richard II. His half brother, John, Duke of Exeter, and
Karl of IIuntin.;don, underwent the fame fati«, from the hands of the populace, at PJeffy,
in Efl'ex, for being engaged in the fame dcfign. And his grandlbn, Henry, Duke of
F- eter, experienced i fortune as various as it was calamitous. He was the greateft fubjeft
iu ivower under Hoi. ry VI., and was brother-in-law to Edw. IV.; yet, as Comines relates,
dui ing the firfl deprcflion ot his unhappy mader, he was fecn a fugitive in Flanders, run-
ning barefoot after the Dsike of Burgundy's coach, to beg an alms : on the laft attempt
to replace Henry on the throne, he again appeared in arms at the battle of Barnet, fought
mantully, and was h ft for dead in the field ; a faithful domeftic gave him aihllance, and
conveyed him into fanduary ; he cl'caped, and was never heard of till his corpfe was
found, by fome unknown accident, floating in the fea between Dover and CalaU * ; and
thas clofod the cv'i: hiftory of this ill-fated line.

Return through this deep tra£t into the road at Standilh : the country from hence
to Prefton very good ; on the laft a long valley runs parallel. At a place called Pin-
cock-brid-^^ cr 's the Yarrow, a pretty ftream, watering a narrow romantic glen, wooded
on both lides.

Ride through V'alton, a very populous vllhge,near the Kibble, a fine river, extend-
ing through a range of very rich meadows, as far as the piflurefque vale of Cuerden.
Crofs the river on a bridge of five arches, afcend a hill, through lanes once deep, nar-
row, and of difficult approach, where, in 1715, the rebels made fome refiftance to the
king's forces in the ill-concerted aflair of that year.

On the top lies Prefton, a neat and handfome town, quiet, and entirely free from the
noife of manufaftures ; and is fupported by paflTengers, or the money fpent by the
numerous gentry that inhabit it. It derives its name (according to Camden) from the
priefts or religiout, C.iut were in old times the principal inhabitants. Here was a convent
of grey friars, or Fraucifcans, founded by Edmund Earl of Lancafter, fon of Henry 111.
Robert de Holland abovementioned was a confiderable benefaftor to the place, and was
buried here. A gentleman of the name of Prefton gave the ground j. Might not the
town take its name fron"» him ? Here was alfo an ancient hofpital, dedicated to Mary
Magdalene, mentic M in 1291 in the Lincoln taxation J.

'Ihis place was t . on by ftorm in 1643, ^Y '^^ parliament forces under Sir John
Seaton, after a mol^ ^i".! at defence : it was at that time fortified with brick walls §.

North of this ten began the adlion between that gallant oflicer Sir Marmaduke
Langdale and the parHament foices under Cromwell. The former commanded the
Englilh army that wac to ad in conjiuKllion with the Duke of Hamilton in his unfortu-
nate invafion in July 164H. Langdale gave the infatuated Scot notice of the approach
of Cromwell, and i 1 vain advifing the aflembling of the whole force, his counfel was
loft. He alone mao<' a ftand in the fields near Prefton for fix hours, unaflifted by the
duke, who pii(hed t^c march of his troops over the bridge, leaving Sir Marmaduke to
be overpowered with numbers.

The walks on the banks above the Rilible command a moft beautiful view of mea-
dows, bounded by delicious rilings ; the river meandring between till the profpeft clofes
with its eftuary. Cortinue here the whole night, and lie at the Black-Bull.

'1 he Spidator has long f.nce pointed out the knowledge that may be collefted froni
figns : it is impuffible not to remark the propriety ot the reigning ones of this county :

♦ Sti>w [?f> % T.inncr, 254.

] Stivtns's Monad. 1 154. j Pailiinncnt Lhronicle, 268,

11 ; 1

l82

pennant's second tour 1M ocotland.

the tiipk-logs, and the eaglc-and-chilJ, denote t'le great pofleflions of iho Stanll". iii
ihefe parts i ilic bull, the jull pre-eminence of its cattle over other counties; ani i j
royal-oak, its diflinguilhcd loyalty to its rovcrcipn. I am amazed they i\o not aUu tlie
Graces, I'n- no where ran be feen a more numerous race ot beauties among that order,
ulio want every adv. , ,.; ij let oiV their naiive charms.

May 20. Go ovei a lUt country, with rufliy fields on each '"'? : crofs the Broke and
the Calder ; 'Le on oi. fide lilazedale fells, and on the othe » ' ing mofs, which fomc
voars ago made an eruption fimilar to that of Solway. Croisthe Wier, near Gavftang,
on a bridge of two arches; about twelve miles lower it fwc'ls into a fine harbour,
whenc ' the provincial proverb, as fafe as Wier. VclVels put into it for the fuil-cloth
made at Kirkham.

Broakfaft at Garftang, a fmall town, remarkable for the fine cattle produced in its
neighbourhood : a gentleman has refuied thirty guineas for a three-year-old cow ; has
fold a calf of a month's age for ten guineas, and bulls lor an hundred ; and has killed
an ox weighing twenty-one fcore per quarter, cxrlufivcof hide, entrails, &c. Bulls alfo
l»ave been let out at the rate of thirty guineas ihe frafon ; fo that well might honed
Barnaby • celebrate the cattle of this j^hicc, notwithllanding the misfortune he met with
in one of its great fairs.

VenI Garftaiig iibi nata
Sunt Armc'tita frontc lata,
Vciii darllang, iibi iniilc
Ii;tr;int for imi btlHali".
forlt; v^iccillando vico
Hue ct iliiic cum amico.
In Juvcncae Utufum rui
Ctijiis cornti Ixfus fui.

Abundance of potatoes arc raifed about the place, and fent fo London, Ireland, asid
Scotland.

Sir ]:Idward Walpole is lord of tlils manor, his father having obtained a grant of it.
from the crown.

Nei.r the tov/::,i n •' knowl, isafinglo tower, the poor remains of Grcnchaughcaflle:
it was built bv •;;.:; Ji»'lL Stanley, Earl of Derby, to fee, ire himfclf in his new poflllTions,
the forif'itcd cilui.". cu theYorkifts, who did not bear, without refenMucnt, iliis ufurpa-
tion on their propcT-. Among the attainted lauds, whicli were veiled in his lordfliip,
are reckoned thofe of Pilkington, Broughton, and Wotton ;.

Soon after leaving Garllang the country grows more barren, uneven, or flightly
hilly. From a conmion called the Grave have a fine view of

Lancadcr, built of ftone, and lying on the fide of a hill : the caflle, built by Edward
111. \, forms one great objeft, the church another ; and far beyond is an arm of the fea,
and the lofty mountains of Eurnefs and (Cumberland. I'he town is not regular, but is
well built, and contains numbers of very handfome houfes. Every 11 ranger mull ad-
mire the front of Mr. Noble's, faced \\ith flone, naturally figured with views, rivers,
and mountains, in the fame nature with the picira imboj'cata and ruinata of the Italians,
The inhabitants are alfo fortunate in having fome very ingenious cabinet-makers fettled
here, who fabricate moll excellent and neat goods at remarkably cheap rates, which
they export to London and the plantations. Mr. Gillow's warehoufe of tliefe manu-
faclurcs merits a vifit.

• Better known by the name of druultcn Bainaby, who lived the beginning gflaft century, and publill.cd
k:t four Iliricraric!) in Latin rhyme,
•j- Leland'6 Itin. vi. jj.
4. Vetuib Monumcnta, &c. publifhcJ by the Socitty of Antiiiuarics, No. 4?.

*i'

PCHNANT'8 8EC0r'W TOUR IM SCOTLAKO.

'83

!'■

It:

has fii

t!ic

Lune, which br

not a plealing \ it
one of the judges .>i
pous infcription on tl

town of much commerce
fhips of 250 tons burden dole to tho placi . Forty or fifty fhips trade from hence di-
rt'<^Iy to Guinra and the Weft Indii, , others to Norway. Bcfides the cabinet poods,
Ibme fail-cloth is manufadured here; and great numbers 01 candles are exported to the
Well Indies. Much wheat and barley is imported.

The cuftoni-houle is a fmall but elegant building, with a portico fuppor^ed by four
Ionic pillars, with a bcautifil plain pediment : ea h pillar is fifteen feet and a half high,
and confifls of a fingle IIohl'. There is a double ilight of fteps, a ruflic furbafe and
coins ; a work that doco much credit to Mr. Gillow, the architect.

The caftle is very entire ; has a mo'.l magnificent front, C( nfifting of two angular
lowers, ari'l a gateway between, and within is a great fquare tuvver : the courts or juf-
tice are held hrrc i ;■ "' here are kept the prifoners of the county, in a faf «; airy con-
finement, Tlifn ' V. n were furpriied and taken immediately a'' . . "^orming
of Prdon, by a piurt' <m thence under the command of SerjerTi)i.;»; lor i- irch.

1 church ' .ill eminence near the ca'lle, and comman^. ail n^iv , but

hin is a mural monumt it in memory of Sir Samuel Eyres,
c^'s-bench in the tim-j of King William ; and a very pom-
Itone of Tho. Covell, fix times mayor of the town, forty-
eigiu years keeper of the calUe, forty-fix years one of the coroners of the county, captain
of the freehold land of the hundred of Lonfdale on this fide the fands, &c. &c. died
Aug. I, 1639.

Ccafci ceafe to niourn, all tears arc vain and roid.

He's rtcd, iKit iload, difTulvcd, not dclhoycd :

Jn heav'ii liis foul dotli reft, Lis body here

Sleeps in tliia diitl. niid liii fame every wlitre
Triumplis: the town, tlie country, t';iriliir fottli,
Tlielaiid tlironghout proclaim his nMii vvorlli.

Speak of a man fo coiirtemi^,
."-'o free and cveiy way mri(!;n;ininnoi]s :
That (lor) ti)IJ at lurjje licre do you lee
Epitorni/cd in brief, Cuvell was lie.

This is given as a fpocimen of an epitaph fo very extravagant, that the living muft
laugh to read ; and the deccaied, was he capable, nuift blulh to hear.

This was one of the churches rcforved by Henry VIII. as a fanduary after the aboli-
tion of that dangerous privilege in the rell of England.

On the r.orth fide of the church-yard are the remains of an old wall, called the wery
wall. Camden conjedures it to have taken its name from Caerwcrid, or the green for-
trefs, the Britifh name of Lancafler ; and that it was part of a Roman wall. For my
part, with Leland, I fufped it to have been part of the cnclofuro of the priory, a c'll
of Benedidine monks of St. Martin, at Sees in Frtnce, fuppreHcd by Henry V., and
given to Sion abby.

The fluniblcs of this town muft not be omitted : they are built in the form of a flreet,
at the public expence ; every butcher has his (hop, and his name painted over the door.

Crofs the Lune, on a handlbme bridge of four arches. Since I vifitod this town
th(.'re is a new bridge of live arches, built a little above the other, which is yet (landing.
Turn to the left, and after four miles riding reach Hefs bank, and at low water crofs
the arm of the fea,the Moricatnbe of Ptolemy, that divides this part of the county from
the hundred of Furnefs, a detached trad peninfulated by the lea, lake, or river, a mo-
Lmcholy ride of eleven miles j the profpcd on all fides quite favage, high barren hills

iudcute<|

k 1 1' M

»ft:i'

*^^.^°'

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

•^ Ui 12.2
2.0

lit

140

1.8

1.25 1 1.4

6" —

►

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STRUT

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 873-4S03

<^>.

>1^^

i34

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

iml?nted by the fea, or dreary wet fands, rendered more horrible by the approach of
jiighr, and a tempelluous evening, obfcured by the driving of black cloudn. Beneath
the {hade difcerneU Anifide tower, the property of the Stanlies for fome centuries.
Here the county of Weftmoreland intrudes into the eftuary, and totally feparates the
hundred of Loynfdale from the reft of Lancafliire. Before us was an extenfive but
(hallow ford, formed by the Kent and other rivers, now paffed with trouble by the beat-
ing of the waves.

At the entrance into this water am met by a guide, called here tli? carter, who is
maintained by the public, and obliged in all weathers to attend here from fun-rile to
fun-fet, to conduct paflcngers over.

Three miles from the (horeis Cartmcl, a fmall town with moft irregular ftreets, lying
in a vale furrounded with high hills. The gateway of the monaftery of regular canons
of St. Auflin, founded in 1 188 by William Marcfchal, Earlof Pembroke, is ftill ftand-
ing : but this had long been holy ground. Egfrid, King of the Northumbrians, who
reigned between the years 670 and 685, gave to St. Cuthbert all the traft called Carth-
mell and all the Britains on it, and a town called Sudgetluit • j a proof of the length ot*
time that the natives of our iiland inhabited this part.

The church is large, and in form of a crofs : the length !e 157 feet j the tranfept no;
the height ^j. The fteeple is moft fingular, the tower being a fquare within a fquare ;
the upper part being fet diagonally within the lower. The infide of the church is
handfome and fpacious : the centre fupported by four large and fine cluftcrcd pillars ;
the weft part more modern than the reft, and the pillars oftagonal. The choir beauti-
ful, furrounded with ftalls, whofe tops and pillars are finely carved with foliage, and
with the inftruments of the paflion above.

On one fide is the tomb-ftone of William de Walton, with a crofs on it. lie was
either firft or fecond prior of this place. The iuLription is only " Hie jacet frater
Wilelmus de Walton prior de Cartmel."

Gn the other is a magnificent tomb of a Harrington and his lady, both lie recum-
bent beneath a fine carved and open work arch, decorated with variety of fuperllitious
figures } and on the furbafe are grotefque forms of chaunting monks. He lies with his
legs acrofs, a fign that he had obtained that privilege by the merits of a pilgrimacje to
the holy land, or a crufade. He is faid to have been one of the Harringtons of Wraf-
holm tower, his lady a Huddlefton of Millam caftle. It is probably the efilgies of Sir
John de Harrington, who in 1305 was funimoned by Edw. I., with numbers of other
gallant gentlemen, to meet him at Carlifle, and attend him on his expedition into Scot-
land ; and was then knighted along with Prince Edward, with bathing, and other facrcd
ceremonies f.

The monument erefted by Chriftopher Rawlinfon of Carkhall, in Cartmel, defervcs

iffue, was the laft male by the mother's fide of that great line.

In a fide chapel is the burial-place of the Lowthers ; among other monuments is a
neat but fmall one of the late Sir William. \

May 21. Pals through fome fields, a ftrangc mixture of pafture, rock, and finall
groves. Defcend a hill to Holker, once the feat of the family of the Preftons, fince the
property of the Lowthers, and lately that of Lord George Cavendifh : a large irregular

♦ HiA. St. Cuthbert in Hill. Angl. Script. 1. 69.

f Dugdale's Baronage, II. 99.

houfe

PEiWANT*S SECOND TOUR IN BCOTIiAND.

i«S

hof.ff", feated in a pretty park, well wooded ; and on the fide of the houfe is a range
of lo A' rocky hills, dlreding the eye to an immenfe chain of lofty mountains.

AtHolker arefeveral good pictures: among the portraits, the bcautilul, abandonet!,
,vindiftive, violent Dutchefs of Cleveland, niiftrefs to Charles II. by Lcly.

A Mrs-Xowther by the fame.

Admiral Penn, dreifed in black, with a cravat and falh, long hair, and of a good
honeft countenance. He rofe very early in life to the higlielt naval commands ; was a
captain at twenty one, rear admiral of Ireland at t\\ onty-throc, general in the fird
Dutch war at thirty-two ; difgraced and imprifoncd by Cromwell for his unfuccefsful
attempt on St. Domingo, though he added, in ihat very expedition, Jamaica to the
kingdom of Great Britain : on the reftoration, c<mimandcd under the Duke of York
in the fame (hip, at the great fea fight of 1665, when tlie laurels of the firll day were
blafled by the unfortunate inactivity of the fecond } for where princes are concerned,
the truth of mifcarriages feldom appears. He foon after retired from the fervice, and
died at the early age of forty-nine.

The late Sir James Lowther ; a charafter too well known to be dwelt on.

The head of Thomas "Wriothefly, Earl of Southampton, the friend of Clarendon,
and virtuous treafurcr of the firft years after the rcltoraiion.

His lady, leaning on a globe.

A very fine head of a Prefton, in black, a ruff, fhort grey hair, round beard.

A head called that of an Earl Douglafs, with this infcription : *' Novis paucos fecura
quies, ast. fuae. xxii. A. M. D. xi." On the head a black bonnet, countenance good,
beard brown, drefs black.

A fine head of Vandyck, when young, leaning : by himfi If.

An old man reading, and a boy, on wood, marked j. w. Stap.

Two boys at dice, and a woman looking on : a line piece by Morlllio.

St. Francis d'Aflize, kneeling, very fine. And variety of other good paintings.
Among them four by Claude Lorraine.

Crofs another trad of fands, three miles in breadth, and am conduiEled through the
ford by another Carter. This officer was originally maintained by the priory of Coni-
Ihed ; but at the diffolution the King charged himfelf and his fuccelVors with the pay-
ment : fince that time it is held by patent of the dutchy of Lancafter, and the falary is
paid by the receiver-general. Reach

Ulverfton, a town of about three thoufand fouls, feated near the water fide, and is ap-
proachable at high water by veflels of a hundred and fif^y tons ; has a good trade in
iron ore, pig and bar iron, bark, lime-ftone, oats and barley, and much beans, which
laft are fent to Liverpool, for the food of the poor ev.naved negroes in the Guinea
trade. Numbers of cattle arc fold out of the neighbourhood, but the commerce in
general declines ; at prefcnt there are not above fixty vefTels belonging to the place ;
formerly about a hundred and fifty moflly let out to freight j but both matter and fai-
lors go now to Liverpool for employ.

Quantities of potatoes arc raifed here ; and fuch is the increafe that 450 bufhels
have been got from a fingle acre of ground. Some wheat is raifed in low Furnefs,
near the fea, and in the ille of Walney : but the inhabitants of thefe pans liuvc but re-
cently applied thcmfelves to hufbandry. Among tho manures ica-fand and live muf-
dos are Ircqucntly uled : but till within thcle twenty years even the ufe of tlung was
fcarcely known to them.

Make an cxcu/fion of four miles to the wcR:, to vifit the great iron mines at Whit-
rigs ; the ore is found in immenfe beds beneath two ilruta, one of pinncl or coarfe

» n grave],

< 1

'11 i

vol.. III.

iS6

PENNAKT's second tOUR m SCOTLAND.

^ gravel, about fifteen yards thick : the next is lime-ftone of twenty yards ; the ftratum
of ore is rather uncertain in extent, but is from ten to fifteen yards thick, and forty ia
extent ; and fometimes two hundred tons have been taken up in a week. A cubic
yard of ore weighs three tons and a half: the common produce of metal is one ton
from thirty-five to forty hundred of ore ; but fome has been fo rich as to yield a ton of
, iron from twenty fcven hundred of the mineral.

The ore lies in vafl heaps about the mines, fo as to form perfefl: mountains ; is of
that fpecics called by niineralogifls hasmatites and kidney-ore ; is red, very greafy, and
defiling. The iron race that inhabit the mining villages exhibit a flrange appearance :
men, women and children are perfefly dyed with it, and even innocent babes quickly
aflame the bloody complexion of the foil.

The ore is carried on board the fhips for i as. per ton, each ton 2 1 hundred ; and the
adventurers pay is. 6d. per ton farm for liberty of raifing it. It is entirely fmelted
with wood charcoal, but is got in fuch quantities that wood in thefe parts is fometimes
wanting ; fo that charcoal is fometimes procured from the poor woods of Mull, and othe»
of the Hebrides. The port to thefe mines is Barrow, about five miles to the fouth weft.

Thefe mines have been worked above four hundred years ago, as appears by the grant
of William of Lancafter, Lord of Kendal, to the priory of Conifhed, in this neighbour^
hood, of the mine of Plumpton, probably pait of the prefent vein j which he conveys
*' libero introitu et exitu ad duos equos cum hominibus minam cariandam, &c. •"

The vefliges of the ancient workings are very frequent, and apparent enough, from
the vaft hollows in the earth wherever they have funk in.

From one of the banks have a great view of the lower Furnefs, as far as appears, a
woodlefs tra£t, and the ifle of Walney, ftretchtng along the coaft, and forming to it a
fecure counterfcarp from the rage of the fea. At the fouth end is Peel caftle, originally
built, and fupported by the abbey of Furnefs, and garrifoned with fixty men, as a pro-
te£Uon againfl the Scots.

The abbey lies oppofite, and the very ruins evince its former magnificence f. It
was founded in 11 27, by Stephen Earl of Moriton of Bologne, afterwards King of
England, or rather removed by him from Tulket in Aundirnefs. The monks were
originally of the order of Tironenfians, of the rule of St. BenediA, but afterw?: ^i^
came Ciftercians J.

The little Tarn, or water called Standing Tarn, is within fight ; it is of coniiut ae
depth, and abounds with pike, roach, and eels ; alfo with large trout ; and is remark-
able for having no vifible outlet, but difcharges its waters by fome fubterraneous palTage.

See, towards the North, at afmall diftance, the hill of Black-Coomb, in Cumberland
often vifible from Flintihire, and an infallible prefage to us of bad weather. I found
from the report of the inhabitants of thefe parts, that the appearance of our country is
equally ominous to them, and equally unacceptable.

See Swartz-moor hall, near which Martin Swartz and his Germans encamped in
1487, with Lambert Simnel, in order to colled forces in thefe parts, before his attempt
to wrefl the crown from Henry VIL He was fupported by Sir Thomas Broughton, a
gentleman of this neighbourhood, who, efcaping afterwards from the battle of Stoke,
like our Owen-Glendwr, lived many years (when he was fuppofed to have been flain)
in great obfcurity, fupported by his faithful tenants in Wedmoreland.

• Diigdale, ii. 4:5.

f Finely engraven among the viewi publifhed by the fuciety of Antiquariei.

X Dugdale, I. 704. An excellent and full account of tbii abbey hai been lately publiihed, by Mr.
Tiiomai Weft.

13 And

. pennant's SBCOND'toUH IM tCbTLAMD. iS;

And in after-times the melancholy fpirit of George Fox, the founder of quakerifm,
fook pofTeflion of Swartz-moor hall, firft captivating the heart of a widow, the reli£l of
judge Fell, the then inhabitant, moving her congenial foul to refign herfelf to him in
the bonds of matrimony. From thence he fallied forth, and I truft, unintentionally*
gave rife to a crowd of fpiritual Quixotes (difowned indeed by his admirers, as his
genuine followers) who for a period difturbed mankind with all the extravagancies that
enthufiafm could invent.

Return to Ulverfton, and dine with Mr. Kendal of that place, who ihewed me every
civility. In his pofleflion faw a fmgular tripodal jug, found in the neighbourhood : it
was wide at the bottom, and narrow at the top, with a fpout and handle made of a
mixed metal ; the height of the veifel was eight inches three quarters, of the feet two
three quarters. One of the fame kind was found in the county of Down *, in Ireland ;
yet probably both might be Roman, the lad brought by accident into that kingdom ;
for Mr. Gordon, tab. 42. has given the figure of one carved on the fide of an altar.

Proceed by Newland iron furnace ; afcend a high hill, whofe very top, as well as
others adjacent, appears well peopled. Defcend to Penny-bridge, or Crakeford,
where a fhip of 150 tons was then building. Furnaces abound in thefe parts, and van-
ous forts of implements of husbandry are made here.

Keep along a narrow glen on excellent roads, amidft thick coppices, or brufh woods
of various forts of trees, many of them planted exprefsly for the ufe of the furnaces or
bloomeries. They confift chiefly of birch and hazel : not many years ago (hip loads
of nuts have been exported from hence. The woods are great ornaments to the coun-
try, for they creep high up the hills : The owners cut them down in equal portions, in
the rotation of flxteen years, and raife regular revenues out of them i and often fu-
perior to the rent of their land, for freeholders of fifteen or twenty-five pounds per
annum, are known to make conftantly fixty pounds a year from their woods. The
furnaces for thefe lafl fixty years have brought a great deal of wealth into this country.

Obferve that the tops of all the afh trees were lopped ; and was informed that it was
done to feed the cattle in Autumn, when the grafs was on the decline : the cattle peeU
ing oflF the bark as a food. In Queen Elizabeth's time the inhabitants of Colton and
Hawkfhead fells remonftrated againft the number of bloomeries then in the country,
becaufe they confumed all the loppings and cfoppings, the fole winter food for their
cattle. The people agreed to pay to the Queen the rent fhe received from thefe works,
on condition they were fupprefled. Thefe rents now called Bloom Smithy, are paid to
the crown to this day, notwithflanding the improved flate of the country has rendered
the ufe of the former indulgence needlefs.

Keep by the fide of the river Crake : near its difcharge from Coninfton mere, at a
place called Waterfoot, lay abundance of flate brought down by water from the quarries
in the fells : obferved alfo great heaps of birch befoms, which are alfo articles for ex-
portation.

Reach Coninflon or Thurdain water, a beautiful lake, about feven meafured miles
long ; and the greatefl breadth three quarters : the greateft depth from thirty to forty
fathoms. At the S. end it is narrowed by the projection of feveral little headlands
running far into the water, and forftiing between them feveral pretty bays.' A little
higher up the wided part commences : from thence it runs quite flrait to the end, not
incurvated as the maps make it. The fi(h of this water are charrand pike : a few years
ago the fird were fold for 3s. 6d. per dozen, but thanks to the luxury of the times, are

* Ancient and prefent flate of the county of Down, p. 5$.
B B 2

now

i88

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

now raifed to eight or nine (hillings. The fcenery about this lake, which is fcarcely
mentioned, is extremely noble. TheE. and W. fides are bounded by high hills often
wooded ; but in general coinpofcd of grey rock, and coarfc vegetation ; much juniper
creeps along the iiii face, and fonie beautiful hollits are finely intermixed. At the north-
weftern extremity the vail mountains called Coninflon fells, form a magnificent mafs.
In the midlHs a groat bofoni, retiring inward, which affords great quantities of fine
flate. The trade in this, article has of late been greatly improved, and the value of the
quarries highly encreafed : a work that twenty years ago did not produce to the land-
lord forty {hillings, atprcfent brings in annually as many pounds : and the whole quan-
tity at this time exported yearly fmm thefe mountains, is about two thouiand tons. At
their feet is a fmall cultivated traft, filled with good farm houfes, and near the water
edge is the village and church of Coninflon. Formerly thefe mountains yielded cop-
per ; but of late the works have been negleded on account of the poverty of the ore.

Leave the fides of the lake, and afcend a deep hill, furrounded with woods. From'
the fummit have a fine view of the lake, the (tupendous fells, and a winding chafm be-
neath fome black and ferrated mountains.

The fields in thofe parts are often fenced with rows of great flates ; which no horfey
will attempt leaping. See at a diftance a piece of Winander mere, and that of Eaft-
thwaite } defcend the hill, and foon reach the fmall town of Hawkfhcad, feated in a fertile
bottom. In the church is an altar tomb, with the effigies of William Sandys, and Mar-
garet his wife, moft rudely cut in ftone, and done by order of his fon Edwin, Archbifhop
of York, who was bom in a fmall houfe in this neighbourhood. Round the tomb is.
this infcription :

Conditur hoc tumulo, Guilielmus Sandes et uxor,

Ciii Margareta nomen et oinen crat.
Armiger ille fuit percharus rcgibiis olim.

Ilia fed excmplai' religionU crat.
Conjugii fuerant xquali forte beati.
»• Felices opibiis, ilemmace, prole fiJe.

Qnos amorct pietas Ixto conjunxit codem r
Tios fub fpe vitsc continct ille lapis.

May 2 2d, leave Hawkfliead, and ride by the fide of Urfwick mere, about two miles
long, and three quarters broad ; on each fide ornamented with a pretty elevated penin-
fula.juttingfar into the water. Its fifli are perch, called here bafs, pike, eels, but no
trout. The eels defcend in multitudes through the river that flows from this mere into
"Winander, beginning their migration with the firlt floods after midfuumier ; and ceafe
on the firft fnows. The inhabitants of the country take great numbers in wheels at that
feafon j when it is their opinion that the eels are going into the fait water : and that they
return in fpring.

Ihe roads are excellent amidft fine woods with grey rocks patched with mofs rifing
above. In one place obferved a Holly park, a tract preferved entirely for Iheep, who
are fed in winter with the croppings. Wild cats inhabit in too great plenty thefe woods
and rocks.

The Lichen Tartareus, or ftone rag, as it is called here, incrufl;s moft of the ftones ;
is gathered for the ufe of the dyers by the pcafants, who fell it at a penny per pound,
and can colk-d two ftone weight of it in a day.

Reach Graithwaitc, the feat of Mr. Sandys ; and from the cats craig, an eminence
near the houfe, have an cxtcnfive view up and down the water of Winander, for feve-
ral miles. The variety of beautiful bays that indent the iliore } the fine wooded rifings

7 that

PiiNNVNTa SECOND TOUR iN dCOI'I.ANU.

i8o

that bound each fide ; and the northern tt.i-niination of lofty foils patched with fnow,
conipoff a ftene the moll piclurcJ'qiic that can be; imagined.

See on the plain part of tnefe hills numbers oi" fpringes for wooJcock.'*, Irld bctwoiMi
tufts of heath, with avenues of finall flones on each fiJe to dire6l theft- foolifh birtis into
the fnares, for they will not hop over the pebbles. Muhiludcs are taken in tin:: man-
ner in the open weather; and fold on the fpot for fixteen jicnce or twenty pence a
couple (about 20 years ago at fix pence or fevcn peace) and lent to thj all- Jevourhig
capital, by the Keiulal ftage.

After breakfall;, take boat at a little neighbouring creek, and have a mofl advantage-
ous view of this beautiful lake, being favoured with a calm day and line fky. '1 he
length of this water is about twelve miles ; the breadth about a mile ; for the width is
unequal from the multitude of pretty bays, that give fuch an elegant finuofiiy to its
fliores, efpecially thole on the call:, or the Weftmoreland fide. The horn.s of liiere little
ports projed far, and are finely wooded ; as are all the leiler hills that Ikirt the water.

At a diflance is another feiies of hills, lofty, nule, grey and molly ; and above them
foar the immenfe heights of the fells of Coninfion, the mountains of Wrynofe and
Hard-knot, and the conic points of Langdcn fells; all except the fit It in Ciunbeihind.
. The waters are difcharged out at the fouth end, at New by-bridge, w ith a rapid pre- '
cipitous current, then alfume the name of Leven, and after a couvle nf two miU_s fall
into the eftuary called the Leven lands. Ttie depth ot this lake is various, from f>ur
yards and a half to feventy-four, and excepting near the fides, the bottom is eiitireiy
rocky : in fome places are vail fubaqueous precipices, the rock i'allhig at once perpeji-
dicular, .for the depth of twenty yards, within forty of the Ihove ; and the lairic depth. !?<
preferved acrofs the channel. The fall of the Leven, from the lake to liigii water
mark, is ninety feet ; the dcepefl part of the lake a hundred and thirty-two beneath
that point.

The boatmen dirccled their courfe northward, and brought us by the h;-atliy ifle of
Lingholni, and the far projecting cape of Rawiinfon's Nab. On the left hand obferve
the termination of Lancafhire, jufl: fouth of the (lor, a great promontory in Weitmore-
land, all the remaining wcflern fide is claimed by the firlt ; but Weihuoreland bounds
the red, fo has the fairefi claim to call itfelf owner of tliis fuperb water.

On doubling the flor a new cxpanfe opened bti'oi-c us ; left the little Ifle of Grow-
holme on the right, traverfed the lake towards the horfe ferry, and a little beyond, the
great Holme of thirty acres croiTes the water, and conceals tht; relt. This delicious ifle
18 bled with a rich pallurage, is adorned with a pretty grov-e, and has on it a good
houfe.

It has been the fortune of this beautiful retreat often to change maflers : the flatter-,
ing hopes of the charms of retirement have milled feveral to purchafe it from the lafl
cheated owner, who after a little time difcovered, that a conllant enjoyment of the fame
o' jeds, delightful as they were, foon f.itiated. There mud bj foniething more than
external charms to make a retreat from the world long endurable; the qualifications
requifite fall to the fhareof a very few ; without them dilgull and wearinefs will foon
invade their privacy, notwithfianding they courted it with all the pallion and all the
joiiiance with which the poet did his miftrefs •.

bic ego fccretis potTum bene vivere fylvl?,

Qiia nulla hii'iiano fit via tritapcdc.
Tu mihi cuiarym lequies, tii nofte vtl atra

LuuKii, tt in folia tu ir.ilii turba locia.

1,1

Tibiillii3 iv. 13) 9.

From

i i

190

MNKANT's second tour, in SCOTLAND.

From this ifland began a new and broader extent of water, bounded on the weft by th«.
bold and lofty face of a fteep hill, patched with the deep green of vaft yews and hollies,
that embelliflied its naked flope. This expanfe is varied with feveral very pretty ifles,
fome bare, others juft appear above water, tufted with trec«i : on the north-eaft fide is
the appearance of much cultivation j a tratl near the village of Boulnefs falls gently to
the water edge, and rifes again far up a high and large mountain, beyond which is a
grand (kreon of others, the pointed heads of Troutbeck fells, the vad rounded mafs
of Fairfield, and the ftill higher fummit of Rydal.

Land, and dine in Weftmoreland at Boulnefs, anciently railed Winander, giving
name to the lake ; and am here treated with moft delicate trout and perch, the fiOi oJF
this water. The charr is found here in great plenty, and of a fize fuperior to thofe in
Wales. They fpawn about Michaelmas, in ths river Brathay, which, with the Row-
thay are the great feeds of the lake, preferring the rocky bottom of the former to the
gravelly bottom of the other. The filhermen diftinguilh two varieties, the cafe-charr
and the gelt-charr, i. e« a fi(h which had not fpawned the lalt feafon, and edeemed by
them the more delicate : this fpawne from the beginning of January to the end of March,
and never afcends the river, but feleds for that purpofc the mo(i gravelly parts of the
hke, and that which abounds moti with fprings. It is taken in greateft plenty from the
end of September to the end of November, but at other times is very rarely met with.

The monks of the abbey of Furnefs had a grant from William of Lancafter, privileg-
ing them to fifli on this water witli one boat and twenty nets ; but in cafe any of the
fervants belonging to the abbey, and fo employed, mifbehaved themfelves, they were
to be chafiifed by the lord o( the water; and in cafe they refufed to fubmit, the abbot
was bound to difcharge them, and make them forfeit their wages for their delinquency*.

Reniount my horfe, and continue my journey along the fides of the lake, and from
an eminence about half a mile N. of the village of Boulnefs, have a fine view of the
water and all its windings ; and obferve that the lad bend points very far to the wed.

On advancing towards the end have an auguft profpe6t of tlie whole range of thefe
northern npennines, exhibiting all the variety of grandeur in the uniform immenfe mafs,
the conic fummit, the broken ridge, and the overhanging crag, with the deep chafm-likc
paflagcs &r winding along their bafes, rendered more horrible by the blackening (hade
of the rocks.

Among the birds which poflefs this exalted trad, the eagles are the fird in rank :
they breed in many places. If one is killed, the other gets a new mate, and retains its
ancient aery. Thofe who take their neds find in them remains of great numbers of
moor game : they are befides very pernicious to the heronries : it is remarked, in the
laying feafon of the herons, when the eagles terrify them from their neds, that <:rows,
watching the opportunity, will Aeal away their eggs.

The red deer which Rill run wild in Martindale fared, fometimes draggle ii«o thofe
parts.

Reach Amblefide, a fmall town above the extremity of the lake : the inhabitants of
thefe parts are very indudrious ; are much employed in knitting dockings for Kendal
market ; in fpinning woollen yam, and in making thread to weave their linfies. The
countenances of the people begin to alter ; efpecially in the t::nder fex ; the face begins
to fquare, and the cheek bone begins to rife, as if fymptoraatic of my approaching to-
wards North Britain.

Below Amblefide, in a meadow near the river Brathay, is a Roman camp, the fup,
pofed Didisof the Notitia, where coins, bricks, &c. have been often found. The out.

Dugdale Monaft. I. ^o6,

line

PKNNANT*8 8BCONd''T01;R IN SCOTLAND.

191

line of the work is flill vifible, and its extent is four hundred feet one way, and three
hundred the other : it was the (lation of part of the cohort of the Numcrus Nerviorum
Di£tcnfium, and placed very conveniently to command feveral paiTes.

May 23. At a fmall didance from Amblefide, fee Rydal-hail, the houfe of Sir
Michael le Fleming, placed in a mod magnificent fituation ; having the lake full in
front, a rich intervening fore-ground ; and on each fide a ftupendous guard of moun-
tains. This family have been fixed in the north ever fince the conqued, and became
owners of Rydal-hall by a marriige with one of the coheireffes, daughter of Sir John
de Lancader, in the time of Henry IV.

Storkgill force, near Amblefide, and two cafcadcs near Rydal-hall, deferve a vifit
from the traveller.

Near the houfe is a lofty rocky brae, cloathed with multitudes of gigantic yews and
hollies, that from their fizc and antiquity, give it a mod venerable appearance ; and not
far from its foot is Rydal water, about a mile long, beautified with little ifles.

Go through Rydal pafs, or in the dialeft of the country, Rydal haws, or gullet.
Ride through Grafs-mere, a fertile vale with a lake dofed at the end by a noble pyra*
midal mountain, called Helm-crag, with a rude and broken top fingularly grand *.

On a high pafs between the hills, obferve a large Camedd called Dunmail Wrays^
(lones, collefted in memory of a defeat, A. D. 946, given to a petty king of Cumber-
land, of that name, by Edmund I. who with the ufual barbarity of the times, put out
the eyes of his two fons, and gave his country to Malcolm, King of Scotland, on
condition he preferved in peace the northern parts of England.

The defcent from hence to the vale of Kefwick, nine miles.

Near this place enter Cumberland, having on the left the long extended front of
Helvellin fells. Moil of the hills in thefe parts are fine iheep walks, fmooth and well
turfed. The (heep are fmall, but the mutton exquifitely taded, being feldom killed be-
fore it is fix or feven years old. The wool is coarfe, but manufactured into ordinary
carpets and bfankets. No goats are kept here on account of the damage they would do
to the woods.

Arrive within fight of Thirl-watcr, a mod beautiful but narrow lake, filling the bot^
torn of a long dale for near four miles. From an eminence near Dale-head houfe,
have a piflurefque view over great part of its extent. About the middle, the land for
above a hundred yards, approaches and contrads the water to the fize of a little river,
over which is a true Alpine bridge ; and behind that the water indantiy refumes the
former breadth.

Regaining the road, have a drange and horrible view downv ards, into a deep and
midy vale, (called the vale of St. John,) at this time appearing bottomlefs, and winding:
far aniidd the mountains, darkened by their height, and the thick clouds that hung on
their fummits.

In the courfe of the defcent, vifit, under the guidance of Doftor Brownrigg (the
fird difcoverer), a fine piece of antiquity of that kind which is attributed to the Druids*
An arrangement of great dones tending to an oval figure, is to be feen near the road
fide, about a mile and a half from Kefwick, on the fummit of a pretty broad and high
hill, in an arable field called Cadle. The area is thirty-four yards from north to fouthy
and near thirty from ead to wed ; but many of the dones are fallen down, fome in-
ward, others outward y according to the plan, they are at prefent forty in number.

* My idea of thii and other romantic fccnes in this pare ie improved by a very good drawing made ia
I79» by my iugenioui fiiend Paul Panton, £fq. jun.

<'m

ii^

\^W

in;, PENNANT'ti SI.COND TOtTH IN SCOTLAND.

Af tl.. iKMiii .nil, are two imich larj^^cr than tlic reft, ftanding five foot ancl a half
above the foil : bilwcen ihcfL' may bt- I'lippofiil to have been the principal entrance ; op.
pofite to ir, on thu S. fki'S are others of nearly the fame height ; and on the eafl is one
iiear iVviMi fe. t hi;;h. But what clillinguiflies this from all other Druiiliial remains (if
this nalmv, is a re»ftatigiilar ricefs on the eafl fiiic of the area, formed of great (lones,
like thole of (he oval. Tlu-fe fhucliires arc conlidercd in general to have been tom]iles,
.-r p!i>-es ')f wnrihip : the r.-ccf'? here mentioned fecms to have been allotted for the
Oruid'-, the prieils of the ])lare, a fort of Holy of Ilolii-s, where they mc t fcparafed
i\ov,\ liie vul,'\ ir, to perform their ri^^hts, their divinations, or to fit in council, to dr-
i:'nnine on cur.tv<werrK."--, to eonipfomife all dilTereiicts about limits of land, or abdut
mheri'ances, or for tin tn;il 'i" i lie greater criminals •; the Druids jioffjllin;^ both the
ofiiee Of" priitt and miJ;;o. 'The caufe that this rcccfs was placed on the; tat fidi-,
t.cms to arilc fror.i tiie relpcvi paid fy i he ancient natives of this ifle to that Imulieent
knuinary t'le fun. not v>ri;i;inaily an iJolatruus refpedf, but merely as a I'ymbol of the
'•loriou< p!l-frdng li;'ing, its great C'r>.'ator.

1 !;;ivcal!o Icn tibuhi cut out of a llat piece of filver, of a foim bettor to bo cxprefled
by the figure than word^. Its breadth is, from one exterior fide to iIk- other, four
inches. This was difc ovcrcd lodgod in the mud, on deepeniiiir a fifti-pond in Hraytoti
Park in (lumbeiland, the feat of Sir Wilfrid Lawfon, and connnunicated to mo by
J)ocK)r Browiuit^;,^. With it was lound a large lilvcr hook of two ounces weight.
Tile length of the ihank from the top to the curvature at bottom, four inches and three
fights. The hook not fo long.

Arrive noar the Elyfium of the north, the vale of Kefwick, a circuit between land and
■A'Arer of about twenty miles. I-Vom an eminence above, command a fine bird's eye
^ lew of the whole of th.e broad fertile plain, the town of Kefwick, the white church of
Crofswhaite, tht boalled lake of Derwentvvater, and the beginning of that of Baflcnth-
waite, with a full fight of the valt circumjacent mountains that guard this delicious
ijjot.

Uinc at Kefwick, a fni ill market town : where, and in the neighbourhood, are
manufadurcs of carpi ts, tlatmeK, linfics and yarn : the lad fold to people from Cocker-
mouth, who come for it every niarket day.

Take boat oti the celebrated lake of Derwcntwator. The form is irregular, extend-
ing from north to fouth, about three miles and a half. The greatefl depth is twenty feet
inachatmej, running from end to end, probably formed by the river Derwent, which
palfcs through, and gives name to the lake. The name is taken from Dcrweii an oak,
prohably beliowod on it by the Cumbrian Britons from the pknty of that timber on its
banks and th.oie of the lake.

The views on every fide arc very different : her.> all the poITiblo variety of Alpine
fcenery is cxiiibitcd, with all the horror of procipi'-o, !)!dk.n era/,, or over-hanging
rock, or infulated pyramidal hills, contrafted with nthors whofe finooth a;iil vcrilant
(ides, fwelling into aerial heights, at once nhaleand furpri.-e the eye.

The two extremities ol the lake aftbni i.u.ft difcoriian, profpocts : the fouthcrn is a
compofition of all that is horrible; an imm.iife chafm opens in the m'; ft, whofe en-
trance is divided by a rude conic hill, once lopt with acallle, the habitation of the ty-
rant of the rocks ; beyond, a feries of broken mnuntaiiious crag;, now pa\ched with
fnow, foar one above the ot'i-r, nverlliadowing the dark wind ng dcepsof B >iio vdalf.
In thefe black r.ceilesarc lud-cd vari.-ty of minerals, the origin o! ^\il by their abuf.,
and placed by nnrure, net remote from the fountain of it.

L :■

I'.ll.i (ial. lib. vi.

rSNKANV'S IBCOMD TOUR IN SCOTLAMU.

Itum eft ill vilcer* tf rrte,
QuRrcjiie rccondidctat llygilfqiic remu.ciat unibiiii
CtFixlaiiitur opet.

>»s

But the oppofitc or northern view is in all refpofls a flroiif; and beautiful contraft : Skitl-
daw (hews its vaft hafe, and bounding all that part oi' tills vale, rifes gently to a height
that finks the neighbouring hills; opens a plcafing front, finootli and verdant, finiling
over the country like a gentle generous lo'rd, while tho fells of BorrowJale frown on it
like a hardened tyrant. Skiddaw is covered with grafs to within half a mile of the fum-
mit ; after which it becomes (lony. The view from the top extends northward over
Solway firth rnd various of the Scottifh njoimtains ; to the wcfl the fea and the ifle of
Man ; while the interjacent country exhibits a flatter variety, no bad contrail: to the
rude and exalted fells of Borrowdale : finally, to the eaft appear the dreary mountains
of Weflmoreland, lefs interefting than the reft of the fcenery.

Each boundary of the lake feems to take part with the extremities, and emulates
their appearance : the fouthern varies in rocks of different forms, from the tremendous
precipices of the Lady's-leap, the broken front of the Falcon's neft, to the more diftant
concave curvature of Lowdore, an extent of precipitous rock, with trees vegetating
from the numerous fiflures, and the foam of a cataratSt precipitating amidft.

The entrance into Borrowdale divides the fcene, and the northern fide alters into
milder forms ; a fait fpring, once the property of the monks of Furnefs, trickles along
the (hore; hills (the refort of fliepherds) with downy fronts and lofty fummits fucceed,
with woods cloathing their bafes, even to the water's edge.

Not far from hence the environs appear to the navigator of the lake to the greatefl:
advantage, for on every fide mountains clofe the profpect, and form an amphitheatre
almoft matchlefs.

Loch-Lomond in Scotland, and Lough-Lene in Ireland, are powerful rivals to the
hke in queftion. Was a native of either of thofe kingdoms to demand my opinion of
their refpeflive beauties, I muft anfwer as the fubtle Melvil did the vain Elizabeth :
*' that (he was the fiiireft perfon in England, and mine the fairefl in Scotland."

The ifles that decorate this water are few, but finely difpofed mj very diftinft ; rife
with gentle and regular curvatures above the furface, confift of verdant turf, or are
planted with various trees. The principal is the Lord's ifland, about five acres, where
the Radcliffe family had fome time its refidence ; and from this lake took the title of
' Derwentwater. The laft ill-fated Earl loft his life and fortune by rebellion of 1715;
and his eftate now amounting to twenty thoufand pounds per annum, (the mines in-
cluded) isvefted in truftees for the fupport of Greenwich Hofpital.

St. Herbet's ifle was noted for the refidence of that faint, the bofom friend of St.
Cuthbert, who wi(hed, and obtained his wifli of departing this life on the fame day,
hour and minute, with that holy man.

The water of Derwentwater is fubje£t to violent agitations, and often without any
apparent caufe, as was the cafe this day ; the weather was calm, yet the waves ran a
great height, and the boat was to(red violently with what is called a bottom-wind.

This lake gave name to the ancient family dc Derwentwater before the time of Ed-
ward I. By the marriage of Margaret, only daughter of Sir John de Derwentwater,
in the reign of Henry VI., to Sir Nicholas RadcHifo, of DiKton, in Northumberland,
Sir Francis one of his defcendants, was created by James II. Earl of Derwentwater^,
a title cxtinft in 171 5, by the unhappy end of his fon James.

May 34. Went to CroflTthwaite church ; obferved a monument of Sir John RaJcliff
and dame Alice his wife, with their effigies on fmall brafs plates : the infcriptiou is in

VOI-. HI. c c the

•

i
il

'.; '.J.t
rill

■ -), ,,

.i.

• m

•94

VINNANT'i IKCONO TOUH in SCOTLAND.

ihe flylc of ihe times : •* Of your charity pray for the fciule of Sir John RadclifT^
Knight, and for ihe foulc of danic Alice nis wife, w hich Sir John diid the ad day of
February, A. D. i 527, on whole foulc the Lord liavo mercy." Here are alfo two
recumbent atabaflor figures of u man and a woman ; he in a gown, with a purfe at his
girdle.

This is the church to Kcfwick, and has five cluipcls Iwlonpiiif:; to it. The livings of
this county liave been vi late years much improved by Queen Anne's bounty, and there
are none of lefs value than thirty pounds u year. ' It is not very long fince the miniftcr'H
ilipend was five pounds per annum, a poofe-j^rafs, or the right of commoning his goofe ;
a whittle-gait, or the valuable privilege of utiug his knife for a week at a time at any
table in the pariih ; and laitly, a hardened faik, i. e. a (liirt of coarfe linen.

Saw at Dortor Brownrigg's, of Onnatliwiiiie, whofe hofpitality I experienced for
two days, gre.it variety of the ores ol liDrrowilale, fuch as le;<d, common and fibrous^
black-jack, and black lead or wad. The lall is found in grt^ater quantities and purity
in thofe mountains than in other parts of the world. Is the property of a few gentle-
men who, lelt the markets (hould be glutted, open the mine only once in feven years,
then caufe it to be filled and otherwife fecured from the depredations of the neighbour-
ing miners, who will run any rifk to procure fo valuable an article, for the befl fell*
from eight to twelve H)iliings a pound. The legiflature hatn alio guarded their pro-
perty by making the robbery felony.

It is of great ule in making pencils, black lead crucibles for fnfing of metals, for"
carting of bombs and caimon-balls, cleaning arms, fjr glazing of earthen-ware ; and'
fome allert that it may be ui'ed medicinally to cafe the pains of gravel, (lone, flranguary,
and cholic : it has been fuppofed, but without foundation, to have been the molantsria
and pHt^ilix of Diofcori Jes : Dr. Merrct calls it ni^rica/abrilh, and the people of the
country killow and wad, irom the colouring quality ; kiliow, or collow, fignifying the
tlirt of coal, and wad feenis derived from woad, a deep dying plant *.

Till of late years, the luperftition of the bel-tein was kept up in thefe parts, and i«
this rural facrilice it was cullomary for the performers to bring with them boughs of
the mounl.nin a(h.

May if. Continue my journey ; pafs along t!ie vale of Kefwick, and keep above Buf-
fenthwaite water, at a fiiall cultivated dillaiice from it j this lake is a fine expaiife of
four miles in Itngth, baunJcd on one fide by high hills wooded in many places to their
bottoms; on the other fule by fields and the fkiris of Skidd.iw.

Between the lakes of Dtrwentwatcr and Baffenthwaite is a road which leads through
the valley of Newlands to Butter-mere and Clrommach water, two finall lakes of extra»
crJiuary and romantic wildnel's. The catara£k of Scale- force, near the lall, has great
peculiarity. The report of my friend is fo warm in the praiies of the fcenery of thefe
l^ikes, that I regret greatly the lofs of what I ftiould have fo fully enjoyed.

Marks of the plough appear on the tops of many of the hills. Tradition fays, that
in the reign of King John the Pope curfed all the lower grounds, and thus obliged the
inhabitants to make the hills arable : but I ratlier believe that John himfelf drove theni
to this cruel ncceflity ; for out of refcntment to their declining to follow his (landards
to the borders of Scotland, he cut down their hedges, levelled the ditches, and gave all
the cultivated trads of the north lo the beads of chace, on his return from his e.xpe-
ditioa.

• M. S. later to Bifhop Nkliolfon to Doaor Woodward, Auft. 5, 1713.

From

fUNNAK'l's URCOND TOUR W •COTI.ANU. tf|

From Mr.SpoJyii'B, of Annothwaite, at the lower extn-mity of the lake, have a fine
vIl'w of the whole. Near tin's place the Derwent quits tliu bkt», pafHiig under On ze
bridge, confining of tlircL- arches. Salmons come up the river from ttie feu about Mi.
chacTmas, and force their way through both lakes as far as Borrowdale. They had
lately been on their return, tut tho water near the bridge proving too fliallow to permit
them to proceed, they were taken by ilozons, in very bad order, in the net" that were
drawing for trout at the end of the lake.

On A liiltnear this Ipot is a circular Hritifli entrenchment; and I was told of others
of a i'quaru form, at a lew miles dillance, at the foot of Cacrrnotc ; I funpofe Roman.

The country now begins to lower, ceafes to be mountainous, but fwells Into extenfivo
rifings. Ride near the Derwent, and pafs through the hamlets of Ifel, Blincraik, and
Rcdmain } in a few places wooded, but generally naked, badly cultivated, and inclofed
with (lone walls. Reach Bridekirk, a village with a I'mall chuerh, noted for an ancient
font, found at Papcallle, with an infcripiioa explained by the learned prelate Nicholfon,
in Camden's Britannia, and engraven m the fecond volume of the works of the Society
of Antiquaries. I'lie height is two feet and an inch ; the formfquare; on each fide
are different fculpturcs ; on one a crofs, on another a two-headed monfter, with a triple
flower falling fro'r. one common flem, hanging from its mouth : beneath is a perfon,
St. John Baptift, performing the oflice of baptilm by the i'mmeriion of a child, our Sa.
viour: and above the child is a (aow) imperfed dove; on a third fide is a fort of
centaur, attacked by a bird and fome animal ; and under them the angel driving our
firft father out of Eden, while Eve clings dole to the tree of life.

And on the fourth fide two birds, with fume ornaments and figures beneath ; and the
infcription in Runic characters thus decyphercd by the biftiop: " Er Erkardhan men
cgroden, and to ilis men red wcr Taner men brogten." That is to fay,

Here Erkard was converted, and to this man's example were the Danes brought.

It is certain that the infcription was cut in memory of this remarkable event ; but
whether the font was made exprefsly on the occafion, or whether it was not of much
more ancient date (as the antiquary fuppofes), and the infcription put on at the time of
this converfation, appears to me at this period very uncertain.

Pafs, not far from Rridckirk through the village of Fapcadle, once a Roman Ration,
conjeOiired by Mr. Iforlley to have been the iLrvcntione of the geographer Ravenna,
where many monuments of antiquity have been founil. In a field on the left, on de-
fending into the village, are the remains of fome dykes. Reach

Cockermouth, a large town with broad (treets, irregularly built, wartied by the Der-
went on the weftern fide, and divided into two by the Cocker, and the parts connefted
by a bridge of a fingle arch. The number of inhabitants are between thre2 and four
thouland : the manufadtures are flialloons, worlled (lockings, and hats; the laft ex-
ported from Glafgow to the Weft Indies. It is a borough town, and the right of vot-
ing is vefted by burgefs tenure in certain houfes : thisisalfo the town where the county
uleftions are made.

The caftle is feated on an artificial mount, on a bank above the Derwent : is fquare,
and is ftrengthened with feveral fquare towers : on each fide of the inner gate are two
deep dungeons, c^ipable of holding fifty perfons in either; are vaulted at t )p, and have
only a fmall opening in order to lower through it the unhappy prifbners into this dire
prifon ; and on the outfide of each is a narrow flit with a flopc from it ; and down this
were fliot the provifions allotted to the wretched inhabitants. In the feud il im 's death
and captivity were almolt fynonymous; but the firft was certainly preferable j which
may be one cuufe why the battles of ancient days were fo bloody.

c c a Th!s

.:-l

196 pennant's second tour TN SCOTLAND.

This caftlc was founded hy Waldof, firft Lord of Allerdale, and fon of Gorpatrick,
Eiul of Norlhuinberlaud, CDtomporary with William the Conqueror; Waldof rofided
firft at I'.ipcalllo, which he afterwards demoliihed, and with the materials built that of
Cockermouth, where lie and his polterity lonpf relidcd ; hut feveral arms over the gate-
way, wliiiii Clanulen fays are thole of the JNIultons, Hiimfranvilles, Lucies, and Percies,
cvir.ce it to have been of later times in thofe famiiics. It appears that it was firft
granted bvKdw. 11. to Athor.yde Lucie, fon of Thomas de Miikon, who had aflumed
that name by roafon that his mother was daughter and cn-hcir Is to Richard de Lucie;
and afterwards, by mariiagos, this caftle and its honours dc'cendc'd to the ITunifran<
villes, and finally to the Percies*. In 1648 it was garrifoncd for the king; and being
befiegcd and taken by the rebels, was burnt, and never afterwards repaired.

May 26. Purl'ue my journey for about four or five miUs aIon<r a tolerably fertile
country, and then arrive amidft the collieries : crofs fome barren iieaths, with inclofed
land on each fide, deflitute both of hedges and woods. Pals through Difiinton, a long
and dirty town, and foon after, from a great height, at once come in fight of White-
haven, and fee the whole at a fingle glance, featcd in a hollow open to the fea on the
north : it lies in the parifh of St. Bees. The vaft promontory called the Barugh, or
St. Bees-head, noted for the great refort of bird" f, appears four miles to the fouth ;
and in days of old dill more noted for its patronefs St. Bega, who tamed fierce bulls,
and brought down deep fnows at midfuminer.

The town is in a manner a new creation, for the old editions of Camden make no
mention of it ; yet the name is in Saxton's maps, its cliffs being known to feamen, and
from their colour Camden derives the name. The rife of the place is owing to the
collieries, improved and encouraged by the family of the Lowthers, to their great emo-
lument. About a hundred years ago there was not one houfe here, except Sir John
Lowther's and two others, and only three fmall vcffels : and for the next forty years,
the number of houfes increafed to about twenty. At this time the town may boaft of
being one of the handfomeft in the north of England, buik of ftone, and the ftreets
pointing ftraight into the harbour, with others croffing them at right angles. It is as
populous as it is elegant, containing twelve thoufand inhabitants, and has a hundred and
ninety great fhips belonging to it, moftly employed in the coal trade.

In 1566 there were only twelve fmall Ihips under eighty tons, and a hundred and
ninety-eight mariners in the whole county |.

The tobacco trade is! much declined : formerly about twenty thoufand hogflieads
were annually imported from Virginia ; now fcarcc a fourth of that number, Glafgow
having ftolen that branch ; but to make amends, another is carried on to the Weft
Indies, where hats, printed linens, hams, &c. are lent. The lad week was a melan-
choly and pernicious exportation of a hundred and fifty natives of Great Britain, forced
from their natal foil, the Low Lands of Scotland, by the rife of rents, to feek an afylum
on the other fide of the Atlantic.

The improvements in the adjacent lands keep pace with thofe in the town : the
Brainfty eUate forty years ago was fet for as many pounds ; at prefent, by dint of good
hufbandry, efpecially liming, is increafed to five hundred and feventy one.

In the town are three churches or chapels : St. James's is elegantly fitted up, and
has a handfome gallery, which, with the roof, is lupportid by molt beautiful ranges of
pillars. Beiides, is a prefbytemn meeting, one of feceders,- of anabaptifts, and
quakcrs.

• Dugdale'i Paionagc, I. 564, &c. f Burn's liift. Cumberland, II. 4a. X Burn II. 43.

The

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND. »$f

The workhoufe is ihinly inhabited, for few of tl:e poor chufe to enter : thofe whom
neceflity compels are mofl; ufefully employed : with ploiifure I obferved eld age, idiocy,
and even infants of three years of age, contributing to their own fupport, by the pulliug
of oakum.

The harbour is artificial, but a fine and cxpenfive work, on the fouth end, guarded
by a long pier, where the fhips may h'e in great fecurity. Another is pi iced farther
out, to break the force of the fea ; and within thefe are two long ftraight tongui s, or
quays, where the vcflels are lodged : clofe to the fliore, on the fouth fide, is another,
covered with what is called here a fleer, having- in the lower part a range of fmiihs
fliops, and above an extenfive floor, capable of containing fix thoufand waggon-loads
of coal, of 42oolb. each. But this is only ufed as a fort of magazine : for above this
are covered galleries with rail roads, terminating in large flues, or hurries, placed floping
over the quay, and through theie the coal is dil'charged out of the waggons into the
holds of the fhips, rattling down with a noil'e like thunder. Commonly eight fliips,
from a hundred and twenty to a hundred tons each, have been loadcn in one tide ; and
on extraordinary occafions twelve. Each load is put on board for ten (hillings ; and
the waggons, after being emptied, are brought round into the road by a turn frame,
and drawn back by a fingle horfe. The greater part of the way from the pits, which
lie about three or four miles diftant from the hurries, is down hill ; the waggon is
fleered by one man, with a fort rf rudder to direft it j fo that he can retard or accele-
rate the motion by the prefTiire ht j^ives by it on the wheel.

Many other works are projefted to fecure the port, particularly another pier on the
north fide, which when complete will render this haven quite land-locked. It is to be
obferved, that in coming in veffels fhould carry a full fail till they pafs the pier-head,
otherwife they will not be carried far enough in. The greatefl part of the coal is fent
to Ireland, where about two hundred and eighty thoufand tons are annually exported.

Spring-tides rife here twenty-four feet. Neap tides thirteen.

Vifit the collieries, entering at the foot of a hill, not diltant from the town, attended
by the agent : the entrance was a narrow paflTage, bricked and vaulted, floping down
with an ealy defcent. Reach the firll beds of coal which had been worked about a
century ago : the roofs are fmooth and fpacious, the pillars of fufficient ilrenglh to
fupport the great fuperllrudure, being fifteen yards fquare, or fixty in circumference ;
not above a third of the coal having been worked in this place ; fo that to mt the very
columns feemed left as reiources for fuel in future times. The iuunenfe caverns that
lay between the pillars exhibited a molt gloomy appearance. 1 could not help enquir-
ing hereafter the imaginary inhabitant, the creation of the labourers' faiacy,

The fwart fairy of the mine,

and was ferloufly anfwercd by a black fellow at my elbow, that he really had never met
with any ; but th;u ; is grandfather had found the little implements and tools belonging
to tiiis diminutive race of fubterrancous fpirits *.

The bods of coal re nine and ten feet thickj and dip to the wefl one yard in eight.
In various parts are great bars of flone, which cut off the coal : if they bend one way,
they influence the coal to rife above one's head j if another, to fink beneath the feet.
Operations of nature pafl my fkill to unfold.

* The Germaiift bch'rvcil in two fpecies ; one fierce and malevolent, the other a gentle race, appealing
like little old men, drclfcd'Hke the mintra, and not much ;ibove two feet iii^h ; tliefc wander ahont the
dritta .md cliambus of the- works, feim perpetually employed, yet do nothing ; fome ftcm to cut the ore,
or fling wiiat is cut iiuo vifllls, or turn the windlafs ; but never to do any harm to the miiui >•, i :,cipt pio-
vokcd : as the fcnfibk i'^gricola, in thin point credulous, relates iu hia book, De Auiinaniibus bubtirrancis.

8 Reach

>■' '-■ m

I ' T#lil

198 pennant's second tour, in SCOTLAND^

Reach a place where there is a very deep defcent : the colHei*s call this hardknot,
from a mountain of that name ; and another wr)'nofe. At about eighty fathoms depth
began to fee the workings of the rods of fire-engine, and the prcfent operations of
the colliers, who work now in fecurity, for the (ire-damps, formerly fo dangerous, are
almoft overcome ; at prefent they are prevented by boarded partitions, placed a foot
diftance from the fides, which, caufes a free circulation of air throughout : but as ftill
there are fome places not capable of fuch conveuiencies, the colliers, who dare not ven-
ture with a candle in fpots where firedamps are fuppofed to lurk, have invented a cu-
rious machine to ferve the purpofe of lights : il is what they call a fleelniill, confiding
of afmall wheel and a handle ; this they turn with vad rapidity againfl a flint, and the
great quantity of fparks emitted not only ferves for a candle, but has been found of fuch
a nature as not to fet fire to the horrid vapour.

Formerly the damp or fiery vapour was conveyed through pipes to the open air, and
formed a terrible illumination during the night, like the eruptions of a volcano ; and by
its heat water could be boiled : the men who worked in ituihaled imflamniable air, and
.it they breathed againit a candle, puffed out a fiery it ream; fo that I make no doubt, was
the experiment made, the fame phaenomenon would appear as John Grub • attributed
to my illudrious countryman Pendragon, chief of Britons.

Reached the extremity of this black journey to a place near two miles from the en-
trance, beneath the fea, where probably fliips were then failing over us. Returned up
the laborious afcent, and was happy once more to emerge into day-light.

The property of thefe works, as well as the whole town, is in Sir James Lowther, who
draws from them and the rents of the buildings fixteen thoufand pounds a year ; whereas
his grandfather only made fifteen hundred. '1 he prefent baronet has inftituted here a
charity of the moft beautiful nature, ufeful, humane, and iinollentatious. He always
keeps filled a great granary of oats, which he buys from all parts, but never difpofesof
while the markets are low : but the moment they rife above five fhillings the Cumber-
land bufhel, or three Winchefler meafures, he inltantly opens his (lores to the poor col-
liers and artificers, and fells it to them at five (hillings, notwithftanding it might havecolt
him feven ; thus happily difappointing the rapacity of the vulturine monopolizer.

Leave Whitehaven, and return about two miles on the fame road I came. See under
the cliffs a neat little village called Par ton, and a pier, intended for the (hipping of coal j
a new creation by Sir James Lowther.

Leave More(by on the left ; a place near the fhore, mentioned by Camden as of great
antiquity, a fort of the Romans, and where feveral infcriptions have been found: he
alfo fpeaks of certain caverns, called Pifts holes, but the latenefs of the evening pre-
vented me from defccnding to vifit them. Ride through the village of Hcrrington,
pafs over a vfery naked barren country, and have from fome parts of this evening's
journey a full view of the Ifie of Man, appearing high and mountainous. Reach

Workington, the place where the imprudent Mary Stuart landed, after her (light
from Dundraiinan, in Galloway, creduloully trufling to the proteClion of the infidiuus
Elizabeth. The town extends irom the cadle to the fea ; it confilts of two cluflers,
one the more ancient near the cadle, the other nearer the church and pier ; and both
contain about four or five thoufand inhabitants: they fubfift by the co;il trade, which is
here confiderable. The Derwent wafhes the (kirts of the town, and difcharges itfelf
hito the fea about a mile weft : on each bank near the mouth are piers where the fhips
,lie, and the coals are conveyed into them from frames occafionally dropping into

• Dr. Percy'* Antient Songs, 2d ed. iii 313.

them

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

199

fhem from die n" ads. Nincty-feven veflels of different burdens, fome even of two
hundred and Uh as, belong to this port.

The caflle Hrou on the feat of the late Mr. Curwen, whofe property, together with
the houfe, pafleda few years ago to Mr. Chriftian by marriage with the daughter of the
late owner. The Culwens took their name from a great lordlhip they polTeffed* in Gal-
loway about the year 1 152, foon after which they fettled at Workington, and the name
became corrupted into Curwen.

Obferve to the fouth, on an eminence near the fea, a fmall tower, called Holme
chapel, faid to have been built as a watch tower tom<irk the motions of the Scots in
their naval inroads.

Near the town is an iron furnace and foundery ; the ore is brought from Furnefs,
and the iron ftone dug near Harrington. A fine water-wheel and its rods extending
near a mile, are very well worth vifiting.

May.^ 27. Keep along the fealhore to Mary Port, another new creation, the property of
Humphry Senhoufe, Efq., and fo named by him in honour of his lady : the fecond houfe
was built only in 1750. Now there are above a hundred, peopleid by about thirteen>
hundred fouls, all colleded together by the opening of a coal trade on thiseftate. For
the conveniency of fhippiiig (there being above feventy of diiferent fizes, from thirty to
three hundred tons burden, belonging to the harbour) are wooden piers, with quays, on
the river Ellen, where fhips lie and receive their lading.. DeGde the coal trade is fome
(kinning bufmefs, and a rope-yard..

At the fouth end of the town is an eminence called the Mote-hill, and on it a great
artificial mount, whofe bafe is a hundred and fixty yards round, protefled by a deep
ditch almoft furrounding it, ceafing only where the fteepnefs of the hill rendered fuch a
defence unneceffary : this mount is a little hollowed on the top, has been probed in
different places to the depth of four or five feet,, but was difcovered to confift of no >
other materials than the cutnnum foil which had been flung out ofthe fofs.

On a hill at the north end nf the town are the remains of a large Roman ftationi,
fquare, furrounded with liovible ditches, and furniflied with four entrances, command-
ing a view to Scotland, aiiu round the neighbouring country. Antiquaries dilfer about
the ancient name V cne flyles it c/cnacum, another •virolidiim^ and Camden WflH//«w,
from the wifli infcribed on a beautitul altar found here, vola>.t'ti vivas *. It had been a
confiderable place, and had its military roads leading from it to Morelby to old Car-
lifle, and towards Amblclide; and has been a pcrCeft magazine of Roman antiquities;

Not far from this ftatiou is a tumulus, fingular in its couipofition ; it is of a rounded
form, and was found, ontlic i'ection made of it by the late Mr. Senhoufe, to confift of,
firft the fod or common turf, then a regular layer of crumbly earth, which at the begin-
ning was thin, incrcafing in thicknel's as it reached the top. This was at lirft brittle,
but loon atttr being expoiVd to the air acquired a great hardnefs, and a ferruginous
look. Beneath this was a bed of ftrong.blue clay, mixed with fern roots, placed
on two or three layers of turf, with their graffy fides together ; and under thcfe, as the
prefent Mr. Senhoufe informed me,, were found the bones of a heifer and of a colt, with
fome wood afhcs near them.

Took the liberty of walking to Nether-hall, formerly Alncburgh-hall, where I foon
difcovered Mr. Senhoufe to be polftfTed of the politenels hereditary f in his fami'v to-
wards travellers of curiofity. lie pointed out to me the feveral antiquities that had •

• Vidt.' Camden ioiI» rioi'i'tey, p I?l. t;ih Ko Ixviii. Cumberland,
f Vide Catndcii,p. 1012, and Guiduii'3 Itin Inucal. ico.

f.v\

•i'fl

been

III

200

>EKNANT*fl 8EC0KD TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

■:

been long preferved in his houfe and gardens, engraved by Camden,'Mr. Horfeley, and
Mr. Gordon ; and permitted one of my fervants to make drawings of others that had
bedn difcovered fince.

Among the latter is the altar found in the rubbifh of a quarry, which feemed to have
been worked by the Romans in a very extenfive manner : it has no infcription, and
appears to have been left unfinifhed ; perhaps the workmen were prevented from exe-
cuting the whole by the upper part of the hill flipping down over the lower : a circum-
ftance thatftill frequently happens in quarries worked beneath the cliffs. On one fide
of the altar is a broad dagger, on another a patera.

A fragment of (tone, with a boar rudely carved, and the letters o r d,

A large wooden pin, with a curious polygonal head. One fimilar to this, but made
of brafs, was difcovered, with other trinkets, in a tomb near Choifi in France. Count
Caylus calls it a mace, and thinks by the little ax that accompanied it, that the perfon
interred was a child defigned for the military life, and that thefe were fymbolical proofs *.

The fpout of a brazen veflel. Mr. Senhoufe alfo favoured me with the fight of fome
thin golil plate, found in the fame place ; and (hewed me, near this houfe, in Hiill-clofe,
an intrenchment of a reftangular form, forty-five yards by thirty -five : probably the
defence of fome ancient manfion, fo neceffary in this border county.

It gave me great pleafure to review the fculptures engraven in Mr. Horfeley's anti-
quities, and preferved in the walls of this place. The following were fixed in the walls
of the houfe, by the anceftor of Mr. Senhoufe, coeval with Camden. On No. 6^^ an
altar, appears Hercules with his club, and in one hand the Hefperian apples that he had
conveyed

ab Inromni* male cuftodita draconct

What is fingular, is an upright conic bonnet on his head, of the fame kind with that in
which the goddefs, on whom he bellowed the fruit, is drefled f. On another fide of
the altar is a man armed with a helmet and cloathed with difa^um claufttniy or clofed frock,
reaching only to his knees. In one hand is a thick pole ; the other rellingona wheel,
probably denoting his having fucceeded in opening Ibme great road.

In No. 70, are feen the two victories fupporting a triumphal crown, the vidoria
avgujli.

1 he local goddefs Setloccnia, with long flowing hair, with a veflel in her hand, fills
the front of one ftone ; and an altar infcribed to her is lodged in one of the gai'den
walls, '

No. 74, is near the goddefs, a moll rude figure of a cavalier on his fteed.
. In the fame wall with her altar is No. 64, a monumental mutilated infcription, fup-
pofed in honour of Antoninus Pius.

No. 71, the next monument, notes the premature death of Julia Mamertina, at the
age of twenty years and three months. A rude head expreflfes the lady, and a fetting
fun the funereal fuhjcd.

A female cxprefliug modofliy with one hand ; the other lifted to her head, (lands
beneath an arch, as if about to bathe, and is marked in Ilorfely, No. 73.

In a garden houfe is No. 62, an altar to Jupiter, by the firll cohort of the Spanilh,
whofe tribune wa« Marcus Menius Agrippa.

Another, No. 66, to Mars Militaris, devoted by the firfl cohort of the Bclgic Gauls,
comniaiiied by Julius Tutor.

• Rcciicil d'

kiitiq I. 19J.

I Monlfaucon, Anliq. i. tab. civ. f. 7.

And

%.-

fENNANT*a 8BC0K0 TOUR IM SCOtLAND. 20Jt

And a third, No. 67, to Jupiter, by Caius Caballus Prifcus, a tribune; but no men-
tion is made of the cohort.

Since I vifited this pl.ice, Mr. Senlioufc has favoured me with an account of other dif-
coveries, niade by the removal of the earth, that covered the reliques of this ftation :
the ilreets and foot-ways have been traced pav'd with (tones from the Ihore, or free
flone from the quarries: the laft much worn by ufe. - Many foundations of houfes ; the
cement ftill very itrong ; and the plailtcr on lome remains of walls appears to have been
painted with what is now pink colour ; feveral vaults have been diicovered, one with
iree-ftone fteps much ufed : tire hearths open before, enclofed with a circular wall be-
hind : from the remains of the fuel it is evident, that the Romans have ufed both wood
and pit coal. Bones, and t- eth of various animals ; and pieces of horns of flags, many
of the latter fawed, have been found h-re : alio fliells of oyfters, mufcles, whilks and
fnails. Broken earthen-ware and the handle of a large velFel, marked AEL. Frag-
ments of glafs veflels and mirrors ; and two pieces of « painted glafs cup, which evinces
the antiquity of that art.

An entire altar found in the fame fearch, is to be added to the preceding : three of
the fides are plain : the fourth has a hatchet exadly refemblirig thole now in ufe, and a
broad knife, or rather clever, with which the vittims were cut up.

But the moft curious difcovery is a ftone three feet high, the top formed like a pedi-
ment, with a neat fcoUop (hell cut in the middle. From each fide the pediment falls a
ftrait corded mouliin;, and between thofe. jull beneath the fcollop, is a mutilated figure,
the head being dellroyed j but from che body which iscloathed with the Sagum, and
the bucket which it holls in one hand by the handle *, it appears to have been a Gaul,
the only fculptuie of the kind found in our ifland.

Continue my ride along the coaft, enjoying a mofl beautiful profpeft of the Solway
Firth, the Ituna aelluarium of Ptolemy, bounded by the mountains of Galloway, from
the hill of Cr^ifel, near Dumfries, to the great and little Rofs, not remote from Kirkcud-
bright.

Keep on the (hore as far as the village of Alhnby : then turn to the north-eafl, ride
over a lo\v barren woodlefs trad, and uifnial moors, feeing on the left Crefel in Scot-
land, and on the right Skiddaw, both quite clear ; the lall now appears of an infulting
height over its neigiibours. Had the woather been miity it would have had its cap j and
probably Crefel, according to the old proverb, would have fympathized :

* It" evtr Skiddaw wears a cap,

CkKI uuiit :ull well of iliat.

Dine atWigrnn, a fmall town, with fome manufii<Elurcs of coarfe checks. Doftor
Burn fays that the church has never been rebuilt fince the days of its founder Odard de
Lof^is, cotemporary with Henry I About a mile or two to the right is old Carlifle,
fuppofed by Mr. Horfely to have been the Olcnacum of ihc Notitia.

From Wigton the country continues very flat and barren, to a finall diflanceof Car-
lifle. Near that city a U'tter cultivation takes place, and the fields often appear covered
with linen manufadures : crofs the river Cauda, that runs through the fuburbs, and
enter the city at the Irilh gate.

Carlille is moft pleafantly fituated ; like Cheftcr is furrounded with walls, but in. very
bad repair, and kept very dirty. The caftle is ancient, but mukes a good appearance
at a diltance : the view from it confifts of an extenfive tracl of rich meadows of th j
^'iver Eden, here fonniog two branches and infulating the ground: over one is a bridge

• Montfaucon SuppI lll.p. 38. tsb. xi,

▼ot. nu D D of

»i'

,1'

■-,1 >^i

BiR,

''!'-

.■l-ri

20i.

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND*

of four ; over the oilier one of nine arches. There is hefides a profpeft of a rich
country; and a diflant view of Cold-fclls, Crols-fells, Skiddaw, and other moun-
tains.

'J'he caftle was founded by William Rufus, who reflored the city, after it had Iain
two hundred years in ruins by the Danes. Richard III. made Tome additions to it : and
Henry VIII. built the citadel, an oblong with three round bafUons feated on the wed fide
of the town: in the inner gate of the callleis Itill rcinaiuin^; the old Portcullis; and here
ai'e fiiewn the apartments of Mary (^ueen of Scots, whore liie was lodged for fome time-
after her lauding at Workington ; and after being lor a lutle fpace entertained with flat-
tering refpedt, iound herlelf prifoner to her jealous rival.

C.arlifle has two other gates befuies the Iriih, viz. tlu' Englifli and the Scotch. The
principal Iheet is very ipacious ; in it is a guard-houlo, built by Cromwell, commanding
three other itrcetsthat open into this.

The cathedial, begun by Walter, deputy under William Rufus, is very incomplete,
Cromwell having pulled down part in 164910 build ban-acks: there remains iome por-
tion that was built in the Saxon mode, v itli round arches, and va(t maily round pillars,
whole Ihalts are only fourteen feet two inches high, and circumferi.nce full leveuteen
and a half: the reil is more modern, faid to have been built by Kdward III. who had
an apartment to lodge in, in his frequent expeditions into Scotland. The arches in thia
latter building are fiiarp pointed, the pillars round andclullered, and the infide of thq
arches pi ettily ornamented. Above are two galleries, but with windows only in thu
upper ; that in the ca(l end has a magnificent fimplicity, and the painted glals an un-
conmion nratnefs, noiwithftanding thtre is not a fnigle figure in it.

The choir was not founded till about the year 13 .;4; the tabernacle work in it is ex-
tremely pretty ; but on the aiiles on each fide are fome ftrange legendary paintings of
the hillpry of St. Cuthbert and St. Auguiline : one reprefents the faint vifited by aa un-
clean fpirit, who tempts him in a moil indecent manner, as thefe lines import :

The fpyrit of Fornication to lilm doth jiptr ;

Awl ihui he chaftcticth hy» body with ihoriic and with bryer.

At the well end of tho church is a large phiin altar tomb callc;! the Blue-flon-' : ctj
this ihc tenants ot the dean and clupter by certain tenures were obliged to pay their
rents.

There had been only one religious houfe in this city; a priory of black canons found-
ed by Ilcury I., replaced on the fupproflion, by a dean and four canons fecular ; but
what the tyrant Henry VIll. had fpared, inch as the cloillers and other reliques of the
priory, fell in nfter-tinies vidim? to ianatic lury ; no remains are to be feen at prefeiit,
except the patev.ay, anil a handlbmc building called the Frutry, or the lodging-room of
the lay-brothers, or novices.

13'. fore this pious foundation, St. Cuthbert in 6J^6 fixed here a convent of monks, and
a runnery, overthrown in the genend dtlola'.ion of the place by the Danes.

I>i;t to trace the nnfiquify of this city with hiUoiic regularity, tlie reader fiioulJ learnj
that aft^r laying afide all fabulous accounts, the Rritai; s call it Caer-Lu.did, that ir wis
r-'ir.i^d I>y Anioi.iMc, at the author of his iuueraryj Lu^ovallium, or the city of Lua! on
the vallum or wa!!.

Tl.ut it was probiibly a place of note in the feventh century, for Egfrid prefented it to
St. Cu'libeit with fifteen miles of territory aroimd ; that the Dv.nes entirely deftroyed
it in the niiuh century, and that it rcma'n'.d in ruins for two hunvlrod years. Will'am
Ru!us, iu 1092, in a progrelis he made .nto thefe parts, was ftruck with the fituation,

founded

PEWNANT'S SECONn TOUR IV SCOTLANU.

fi03

founded the caflle, nbuilf the town and fortified it as a bulwark aj^ainfl the Scots : he
pljiUfd there a largt- colony from the Ibuth, who are faid to bo the liriL who introduced
tillagi; in tliat part ol ilit; iionh.

• Henry 1., in 1122, f;ave a lum of money to the city, and ordered fome adJitiona! for-
tifications. Stephen yielded it to Daviil, King of Scotland. Ahvr the rtcovery into
the hands of the Kngijfli, it underwent a cruel fiege by William th^; i.ion in « 173 ; and
was again b( fugeri by Roliert Bruce, in 1315; and in the reign of l;ichard II. was al-
moll entirely Otitmycd by fire. I'he greater events from that period are unknown to
iiic, till itsreddiiiuii to the rebels in >7.>5, on November i6th, when its weaknefs made
if untenable, even had it not been feized with the epidemic panic of the times,, It was
retak ^n by the Duke of Cumberland, on the 30th Deceinber following, and the fmall
feli-devoted garnfon made prifoners on terms that prefervcd them (witiiout the fliadow
of i'npeachment of his lii^hnefs's word) for future jurtice.

The town at prelent cmililis of two pariflies, .St. Cuthbert's and the cathedral, and
contains about four tliouf.md inhabitants ; is handl'omeiy built, and kept very neat.
Here is aconfidentble manufadure of printed linens and coarl'e checks, which bring in
near 30c ol. per annum in dutie.s to the erown. It is noted tor a great manufafture of
whips, whichemjdoyii nun.bers oi chduren ; here are aUo made moft cxcllent fifli -hooks j
but I was told that the mourning them with ilie.s is an art the inhabitants of Langholm
are celebrated for.

May .8.' Saw, at Mr. Bernard Burton's, a pleafing fight of twelve little induflrious
girls fpinning at once on a horizontal wheel, which lets twelve bobbins in motion ; yet
fo cualrived that Ihould any accidei t happen to one, the motion of that might be flopped
without atiy impet'iment to the others.

At Mr. Cuil's 1 was favoured with the fight of a fine head of father ITuddleflon, in
black, wiih a large b.mu Mid l.uig grey hair, with an uplifted crucilix in his hand, pro-
bably taken in the attitude in which he lulled the foul of th,' departing profligate
Charles II..

In this city I had the pleufure of being introduced to that worthy veteran Captain
Gilpin. 1 received from liiin numb-r.s of fi.ie drawin(.',s of views, aiiii antiquities rela-
tive to thi.sc(junty. Some have been engravea to illultratc this worl.j others I prefcrva
ill memory of tlie good ;md ingeiiious iio:ior.

Crols the little river Petrel, the thir t that bounds the city, and at about three miles
eafl, lee Warwick, or Warthu ick church, reinarka; le for its tribune or rounded eaft end,
with thirteen narrow niehes, ten feet eight hi,^h, and fventecn inches broai', reaching
alnvift to the ground, and the top of each arched ; in two or three is a fmall window.
The \vh(>le church is built wilh good cut-ilone: the lengih is leveiity feet, hut it once
extended above one ;,r,d twenty feet farther veil ; there being Hill at tliat end a good
rou.'i'led areh, now filleil up.

Tliis chureh is of great antiquity, but the lUue of the f nindation ".inkno\.n. It was
granted in the time of Wiliiaia the Conqueror * to the abbey of tt. Mary's York, and
then meutioneii as a chapel.

. Beneath it is a haadloine bridge of three arches over the F.uen, a beautiful river.
Rivie for two niih s over a rich ana well cultivated tracl, to (^'.01 bie caflie, luv.y a modern
boufc, fe-ated on an eiMincrico above the river, v\hich runs ihrouch a dei p and f.iiely
wooded g!tn ; that part next the houi'e jiidicioufly planned and bid out i i Vialiis: in
one of them is the votive altar engraven in Mr. Gordon's Itinerary, tab. 43, wilh tolerable
exattnefs, e.\cept oil the top, for the hollow is triauguiar, not round.

* Dll-ddlt'.s Monall. I. J. 7.

D D 2 The

1^
in

■I

■f'l
lli.l

lii."

I ■ li ill

fiO|

PEKNANT*« SECOND TOUR IN «C0T1^AKD,

The fight from this walk of the celebrated cells, and the arch of the ancient priory,
were fo tempting chat I could not refill crolling the river to pay a vifit to thofe curious
remains. The lad is the gateway of the religious houfes of Wethc el, with its fine elHp.
tic arch : the houfc was once a cell to the abbey of St. Mary in York, given by Ranulph
dc Mefchines, Earl of Carlifle, and maintained a prior and eight monks •.

A little farther in the midit of a vaft precipice, environed with woods, are cut, with
much labour, fomc deep cells in the live rock : the front and entrance (the lafl is on one
fide) are made of fine cut-ftone ; in the front arc three windows, and a fire-place: the
cells are three in number, divided by partitions of the native rock, four feet three inches
tliick : each is twelve feet eight inches deep, and about nine feet fix wide in the lower
part, where they are more extenfive than in their beginning: before them, from the door
to the end, is a fort of gallery twejity-thrce feet and a halt long, bounded by the front,
which hangs at an awful height above the Eden. There are marks of bolts, bars and
other fecurities in the windows and doorj and veftiges, which (hew that there had been
doors to the cells.

Thefe are called Conftantine's cells, but more commonly the fifeguard, being fuppofed
to have been the retreat of the monks of the neighbouring priory, duruig the inroads of
the Scots ; no one who fees them will doubt their fecurity, being approachable only by
a molt horrible path, amidll woods that grow rather out of precipices than flopes, im.
pending over the far lubjacent river ; and to encreafe the difficulty, the door is placed
at no fmall height from this only accefs, fo that probably the monks afc'cnded by a lad-
der, which they might draw up to fecure their retreat.

I fearched without fuccefs for the infcription on the fame rock, a little higher up the
river. The words, as prefcrved in the Archaelogia t, are

Maximus rcripfit
Le XX vv cond. cafuijiit.

The firft line is faid to be a yard diftant from the other, and near, is a coarfe figure
of a deer. The meaning is too dark to be explained.

Return to Corbie ; and find in the houlie an excellent picture of a mufician playing
on a bafe-viol ; the work of a Spanifli mafter, part of the plunder of Vigo. A large
piece of the Enip;.ror Charles V. and his Emprefs ; he fitting with a ftern look, as if
reproving her, and alluding to a caikct on a table before them. She (lands, and has in
her countenance a mixture of obHinacy and fear.

On the flair-cafe is a full length of Lord William Howard, third fon of the Duke of
Norfolk, known in thefe parts by the name of bald Willy. He lived in the time of Queen
J!lizabeth, and was the terror of the Mofs troopers, ruling with a rod of iron, but by his
nece(rary fev.rity civilized the country.

There are no traces of the old callle. The manor belonging to it was granted by
Henry II. to Hubert ile Vallibus, who configned this and Warwick to Odard, who gave
Corbie to his ehlefl fon, Olbert and Warwick to his younger fon, William. By the
dea<h of 0(bert, William became pufTtfTed of both. His eldefl fon, John, fixed himfelf
at Warwick, and took the name of the place, which continued in the family till its ex-
bnflion, in the male line, in j 77 :. In the 3 1 ft of Edward I it was held by Thomas de
Richemount : from him, came to Sir Andrew de Harcia, the unfortunate Earl of Car-
lifle, executed in the time of Edward II. and on his attainder, to Sir Richard de Salkeld :
from his heirs to Lord William Howard then of Naworth, who fettled it upon his fecond
fon, in whofe line it (till continues. «

• Dugdale'* Monall. I. 389.

t Ibid. 86.

Returqed

MMNANT'a SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

ios

Returned to Carllfle, and continue there till the 30th of May. Crofs the Eden, that
flows about ten miles below into the Sol way Firth. Pafs over near the village, of Stan-
wick a mile from Darlifle. The fite of the Pifts, or more properly Adrian's or Sevc-
rus's wall, begun by the firft Emperor, and completed by the laft, who may with more"
juftice be faid to have built a wall of Hone, near the plnce, whore Adrian had made his
of turf. For that reafon the Britains ftyled it Gaulfcver, Gal-lwer, and Miir-fvcr. But
at prefent not a trace is to be flifcovered in thcfe parts, except a few foundations, now
covered with earth, to be feen in a field called Wall-know. From thence it pafles be-
hind Stanwick to Hiflfopholm bank, an eminence above the river ; on which are veftiges
of fome dikes defcribing a fmall fquare, the fite of a fort to defend the pafs ; for the
wall reached to the edge of the water, was continued to the oppofite fide, over Soceres
meadow, and extended ten or twelve miles farther, till it terminated at Bowlnel's, on the
Solway Firth. .Adrian's wall, or rather rampart, was made on the north fide of the
wall, and is vifible in fome places, but ceafes at or near Burgh, the Axelodunum of the
Notitia. Probably this was a ftation for cavalry, for near Hiilbp bank is a ftupendousi
number of horfes' bones, expofed by the falling of the cliff.

Crofs the Leven, and ride through the village of Arthuret : in the church-yard is a
rude crofs, with a pierced capital, forming the exa£t figure of the crofs of the knights of
Malta, and it is probable, it was erefted by one of that order. In the fame ground was
interired the remains of poor Archy Armftrong, jefter or fool to Chirles I. and by acci-
dent, fuitable to his profeflion, the day of his funeral was the firfl: of April. Archy had
long fhot his bolt with great applaufe, till it fell unfortunately upon the prelate Laud *,
who, with a pride and weaknefs beneath his rank and character, procured an order of
council, the king prefent, for degrading the fool, by pulling his motly coat over
his head, for difcharging him of the King's fervice, and baniining him the court.—
Near the village are fome high and irregular fandy eminences ; probably natural, not-
withQanding a contrary opinion has been held, becaufc fome coins and an urn have been' .
found in them.

. Reach Netherby, the feat of the Rev. Mr. Graham, placed on a rifing ground, >*a(hed
by the E(k, and commanding an extenfive view j more pleafing to Mr. Graham, as her
(ees from it a creation of his own ; lands that eighteen years ago were in a ftate of na-
ture; the people idle and bad, Hill retaining a fmack of the feudal manners : fcarce a
hedge to be feen : and a total ignorance prevailed of even coal and lime. His improv-
ing fpirit loon wrought a great change in thefe parts: his example inftilled into the in-
habitants an inclination to induftry : and they foon found a difference between floth and*
its concomitants, dirt and beggary, and a pleAty that a right application ot the arts of huf-
bandry brought among them. They lay in the midft of a rich country, yet ftarved in
it ; but in a fniall time they found, that inftead of a produce that hardly fupportedthem-
felves, they could raife even fuppKes for their neighbours : that much of their land was
fo kindly as to bear corn for many years fuccefiively without the help of manure, and for
the more ungrateful foils, that there were lime-ftones to be had, and coal to burn them.
The wild trad foon appeared in form of verdant meadows or fruitful corn-fields : from
the firft, they were foon able to fend to diftant places cattle and butter: and their dairies
enabled them to fupport a numerous herd of hogs, and carry on a confiderable traffick in
bacon : their arable lands, a commerce as far as Lancalhire in corn.

A tradl diflinguifhed for its fertility and beauty, ran in form of a valley for fome fpace
in view of Netherby : it has been finely reclaimed from its original ftate, prettily divided,

" Wh«n the news arrived at court of the tumults in Scotland, occafionej by the attempt to iiitroJuce the
liturgy (a projeft of l.audi, Avchy unluckily met with the Archbflhop; nid had the iircfumpiion to arte
Hi» Ofitcc, Who i» fool now i

8 well

f! ■ 1!

i!.>

■i'pi

■M

" t

]■ ■•mif

■• m

liiii

totf

MNKAKT*! »ECOKS TOW* IM »COTLAWB,

well planted wlih hcilges, and well pciiplod : the ground originally not worth fiT-pence
ao acre, vvas improved to the value of thirty fhillings : u trutl complctt'ly improved in all
refptftg, except in houfts, tiie ancitnt clay- dabbed 1 abitations lldl exii'ing I faw it in
that fituation in th? yoar 1769: at this time a melantlioly ext i\r nf hlark turbery, tho
eruption ot the Solway mol's, having iti a i^sv d.i)« r(.vi'ri,' I },ials andtcm, levelled the
boundaries ot ahnoll every turm tivllroyed moll ot the hou'ts, and liriven th- po(iruiha«
bitants to the utnioft diltrtf;;, till th*y touuil (which vvas not loni; Irom their l.iMilloril
every relief that a humane inmu ceuld lu;;gell. Happi'y his fnitune favoured Ins incli*
iKUion to do ^ood : tor the inltam lufs ot tour huiidad poumis a year could prove no
ciicck to his benevolence.

On vifiiing liie piaie irom whence this difafler had (lowed, it was apparently a natural
phaucinjnor., withuut any thing wonderlid or unpreceilenied. Ptlluin mot's, near Gar-
ilang, had nude the lapie I'ort of eruption in the prolent century ; and ("h.itinor>, be-
tween Mancheder and W.irringiun, in the time of rienry VI I. ,\s l.'-land cxprelli.'S it,
** brad up within a m"le of Morley-haul, und delb'oied much grounde with nn)He there*
about, iuui didroied much frefrit water fifliche thtreribout, firit corruptin.a; wiih Ihnkin,!;
water Glafebrooke, and fo GlalebiiHike carried (linking water and i^oile inio Merl y
Water, and Merfey corriiptiii cariied the rounin;^ imll..', part to the Ihores ot Wales, part
to the ifle of Man and him into Irtland ; and in the very top of Chateiy mi.rc, wlure
tho niolfe was hyeft and brake, is now a fair plaine valley as was in tymcs paltc, and a
rylle runniih hit, and peaces of linall trees be found in the bottom."

Solway Mofs confdls of fixtet n hundred acres ; lies fome height above the cultivated
tr::6l, and leems to have been nothing but a colledlion of thin peaty naid : the lurface
itfelt was always fo near the t>ate ot a quagmire, that in mod places it was unfafefor any
thing heavier than a fportimaii to venture on, even in the drielt fummer

'J'he fhiMorcrull tiiat kept this liquid within bounds, nearelt to t lie valley, was at firft
of futiicient Ibength to contain it : but by the :"mprudence of the pt at-di^jger*, who were
continually working on that fide, at length became fo wcuktnetl, iS not longer to bo
able to refifl the weight prefling on it : to this may be added, the tluiuity of tlie mofs
^as greatly increafed by three days rain of unuiual viol nee, which preceded the erup*
tioH ; and extended itielf in a line as far as Newcallie : took in part of Durham, and
a fmall portion of Yorkfliire, running in a parallel line of about equal breadth i both
fides of which running north and fouth, expcrimced an uiicommcin drought. It is
iJngular that the fall ot NewcaAle bridge and this accident happened within a night of
each other.

Late in the night of the 17th of November of the laft year, a farmer, who lived
aearefl the mofs, was alarmed with an umdual noife. The crult had at once given way,
and the black delu^^e was roUin;; towards his hnufe, when he was gone out with a lan-
tern to fee th'j caule of his Iright : he faw the llream approach him ; and tirit thought
that it was his dungliill, that by fome fupeniatural caule, hid been let in motion ; but
loon difcovering the danger, ho give notice to his neii^hliours with all expedition : but
others received no oth-^r advice but vhat ihi,s Stygian tide gave them : fome by its
noife, maiiy by its entrance into tlair houfes, ard I have been allured that fome
were furprized with it ev.n in their beds : thele pad a horrible night, remaining totally
ignorant of their fate, and the cuufc of their calamity, till the morning, when their
neighbours, with diHiculty, got them out throu^.!;h the roof. About three hundred
acres of mofs were thus diiciiargeil, and above four hundred of land covered: the
houfvs either overthrown or idled to their roois ; and the hedges overwhelmed; but
provitiemially not a human life loll : fcveral caillo wore fuiiocated ; and thole which

were

pennant'* ancoND tour iv scoti.ahu.

«07

tvere houfed had a very fmall chance of efcnplnp;. The cafi; of a cow ia fo finp;ular as to
defcrvc meniioi.. Sht; uas thcotily one out ot ei_(];ht, in iho l';imc cow-houlo, that was
favfd, after having liood lixty hours up to the nock in mud and water : whtiU (lie was
/cliffvcd, flie did not rcFufe to cat, hut would not talle water : nor could even look with-
out fliewing maniti.(l hgns of honor.

The eruption huifl from the ph\cc of its difcharp;?, lilo a cataraiSt of thick ink ; and
continued in a flreain of tlie fume appearance, iiU'imix/d with }^reat fragments of peat,
with their heathy fmface ; then Uovved like a tide ehaiged wiih pieces of wreck, lillinj5
the whole valley, running uj) every little openinjj, and on its retreat, loavinfj; upon the
fhore tremendous heaps of turf, inoniorials of the height this dark torrent arrived al. —
The farther it flowed, the more room it had to expai' 1, lelVcning in depth, till it mixed its
ftreani with that of the I'fk.

The furface of the inols received a confiderable change : what was before a plain, howf.
funk in the forni of a valt buloii, and the lofs of the contents fo loweretl the furface as to
give to Netherby a new view of land and trees unfeen before.

Near this niois was the (hamnful rxlditibn in 1 542, of the Scotch army, under the
command of Oliver Sinclair, minion of James V. (to Sir Thomas Wharton, warden c»f
the marches.) The nobility, defperate with rage and pride, when they hcclrd that fa»
vourite proclaimed general, preferred an immediate furrender to a handful of enemies,
rather than fight for a King who treated them with fuch contempt. The Englifli com*
mander obtained a bloodlefs viclory : the whole Scotch army was taken, or difperfed,
and a few fugitives periflied in this very niofs: as a confirmation it is faid, that a few years
ago fome peat-diggers dilcovered in it the flielctons of a trooper and his horfe in com-
plete armour.

In my return vifit the ancient border-houfe at Kirk-andrews, oppofite to Netherby t
it confilis only of a fquare tower, with a ground floor, and two apartments above, one
over the other : in the fird: floor it was ufual to keep cattle ; in the two lad was lodged
the family. In thofe very unhappy times, every one was obliged to keep guard againft
perhaps his neighbour ; and fometimcs to fliut themfelves up for days together, without
any opportunity of tailing the frefh air, but from the baitlemented top of their cadelet.
Their windows were very fmall ; their door of iron. If the robbe/s attempted to break
it open, they were annoyed from above by the flinging of great itones, or by deluges ot*
Raiding water *. • ■ •.

' As late as the reign of James I. watches were kept along the whole border, and at
•very ford by day atid by night : fetters, watchers, fearchers of the watchers, and over*
feers of the watchers were appointed. Befides thefe cautions^ the inhabitai.ts of the
marches were obliged to keep fuch a number of flough dogs, or what we call blood-
hounds : for example, " in thefe parts, beyond the Eflc,' by the inhabitants there were
to be kept above the foot of Sark, 1 dog. Item, by the inhabitants of the iufyde of Eflc,
to Richmond Cluch, to be kept at the Moot, 1 dog. liem, by the inhabitatitsof the pa*
rilh of Ariliuret, above Richmond Clugh, to be kc*pl at the Parley head, i dog ; and
fo on throughout the border." The chief ofTicors, baiiiils, and coudaliles throughout the
diltrid being diretk-il 10 fee that the inhabitants kept their quota of dogs, and paid their
contributions for their maintenance. Perfons \s ho were ajigrieved, or had I^ft any thing;
were allowed to purfue the hot trode with hound ;nid horn, with hue and cry, and all
other accuflonieil manners of hot purluit j .

■J

• Life of Lord Keeper Guildford, p. 136. »

+ Mcholfon'« bordtr laws, p. 127. In the Appendix is to be f-.cn an order for the fecun'ty of t'r.c
korJcrt.

The

. 1-

'1 ,!

'ml

■'•'Ml

aol

riMWANT'l tlCOMD TOUR IN lOOTLANB.

The neceOity of all this was very ftrong ; for before the accefllon of JamM I. tothefe
kingdoms, the borders of both were in perpetual feuds: after that happy event, ihoi't
that lived by hoflile excurfions, took to pillaging their neighbourR ; and about ihut p««
riod got the name of mofs-troopera, from their living in the mud'c^ of the country.

'They were the terror nf the limits of both kingdoms ; at one time aiTiouaicd to foma
thoufands, but by the feverity of the laws, and the adiviiy of Lord William Howard,
were at length extirpated, 'I he life and manners of one of the pJumlering chieftains it
wellcxcnipiified by tlieconfelTion of Giordie Bourne, a noted tiiief, who fullered when
Robert Gary, Earl of Monmouth, was warden of one of thefe marches : he fairly ac«
knowledged, *' That he had lived lon^ enough to d'> fo many villninies as he had done)
that he had layne with above forty men's wives, what in England, what in Scotland ;
that he had killed fcven Engliihmen vith his owne hands, cruelly murthering them{
that he had fpent his whole time in whoring, drinking, dealing, and taking deep revenge
for flight offences •."

Return to Netherby. The houfe is placed on the file of a Roman flation, the caflra
exploratorum of Antoninus, and was well fituated for commanding an extenfivc view
around. By fignifics a habitation ; thus, there are three camps or (tations, with this teN
mination, not very remote from one another, Netherby, Middleby, and Ovorby. The
firft, like Ellenborouj^h, has been a rich fund of curiofities for the amufoment of anti-
quaries : at prefent the ground they were difcovered in is coveted with a good houfe
and ufeful improvements ; yet not long before Lcland's time ^* ther hath bene mar*
velus buyldings, as'appear by ruinous wallcs, and men alyve have fene ryni^es and (ta>
pies yn the walles as yt had been (layes or holdes for (hyppes \." There is a traditioi^
that an anchor had been found not remote from Netherby, perhaps under ihe high
hnd at Arthuret, i. e. Arthur's head, beneath which it appears as if the tide bad once
flowed.

Every thing has been found here that denotes it to have been a fixed refidence of the
Romans ; a Hne Hypocauil, or bath, was difcovered a few years ago, and the burial
place, now a (hrubbery, was pc'inted out to me. I'he varicu;^ altars, infcriptious, uten-
li's, and every other antiquity colLded on the fpot, arecar<:iaily preferved, anJ lodged
in the green houfe, with (ome others colleQed in diflfercni parts of the country.

June I ft. Take a ride to Liddcl's Stringth, or the Mote. A ftrong entrenchment
two miles S. W. of Netherby, on a ftecp and lofty clay cliff, above the river Liddel,
commanding a vaft extent of view : has at one end a very high inount, from whence the
country mi^ht be explored to very great advantage : in the middle ib the foundation of
a fquare building, perhaps, the prxtorium ? This place is fmall, rather of a circular
form, (Irongly entrenched on the weak fide ; has before it a fort of half moon, with a
vaft fufs and dike as a ft-curity. From this place to Netherby is the veflige of a road.
That this fortrefs has be. n originally Roman is probable, but fmce their time has beea
applied to the fame ufe by other warders. " It was, fays Leland, the moted place of %
gentilman cawled Syr Water Sflcby, the which was killyd there and the place delfi / f?^
yn King Edward the thyrde when theScottes whent to Drylnm J."

It was taken by ftorm by David the lid. The governor, Sir Walter, wou'u hwa
compounded for his life by ranfome, but the tyrant, after caufmg his two foni> to be
Araiigled before his face, ordered the head of the father, diitra<i\ed with grief, to be
ftruck off §.

• C«ry'i Mrmoir*, id, rn.
X Lclaod Itin. vii. 55.

1x3.

f Leiand'i Iti'n. vli. p. {6. 3d. ed.
i Stow't Chronicle, 243.

Defcend

PrNNANT*« BECONn TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

•07

Difccnd the liilt, and croflin" the Lidck-I, cntpi* Scotland in l.iddcfdalo, a jiortiun
of till' county ctf Dmnliica : .1 m il IcriiU' and cu'tiv.ittd ti.ict ol low arable and pn.'Uirtj
l.iiul. Kirp by the river fide lor three niilis farther to IVnton-lins, wlicrc is i moft
wikl but pidurol'qne fconc of tho river, rnj'idly flowing alon;^ rude rocks boiti.ij.l by
cliffs, cloalhcd on each (idc jjy ti vls. The botli ii the watrr rolLi uvlt allutn.s vaiiou:i
forms ; l)Ut the moll lingular nrc beds ot flonc rcgul.'rly i]iKulra:i'/ul,ir, and dividod by
a narrow vacant (pace from eai '1 other, relumhling iinmcnlc malL-:. of l.udi Hchuuntii,
with iheirlepta loll. li"low tlicfo, tlio rocks appro. icii '"'ich other, leaving ' nly a dv-.'p
and narrow channel, with a pretty wood-'n alpine bridge ovei .i d.^pth of turmus w.it.T,
black and terrible to the fight. The I ides of the rock are itrangcly perforated with
great and circular hollows, like pots ; the work of the voriiginous motion of the water
in great iloods.

A firmer I met with here told me, that a pebble, naturally perfoi ated, was an infal-
'ih',' cure, lumg over a horfe that was hag-ridden, or troubled with nodurnalfwoats.

lentil 11 and pafs through the parifli of Cannoniby, a (inall fciulo plain, watered by
tnc Klk, where foine canons regular of St. Auguiliae had pitched their priory at IchII
I oforc the year 1 296, when William, prior of the convent, i\*ore ailegiance " to Lldvv I.
The parifli is very populous, containing above two thoufund fouls. Much coal and
Hmcfione is found here.

Moft part of the houfes are built with clay: the perfon who has building in view,
prepares the materials, then funmions his neighbours on a fixei. day, who c inie fur-
niflied with victuals at their own expence, let cheerfully to Wi. k, and complete the
edifice before night.

Afccnd % bank on the fouth fide of this valley, to a vaft height bove it : the fcenory
is great and enchanting ; on one fide is a view of the river f lli, t w beneath, running
through a rocky channel, and bounded by immenfe precipices ; in various places fud-
denly deepening to a vaft profundity ; while in other parts it glides ovr-r a bottom co-
vered with moil'es, or coloured ftones, that reflecl through the pur>. water tciats glau-
cous, green, or fappharine : thefe various views are in moft places fu ly open to fight ;
in others fuffer a partial interruption from the trees, that clothe the (U p bank, or (hoot
out from the brinks and fifl'urcsof the precipices ; the trees arc in general oak, but often
intermixed with the waving boughs of the weeping birch.

Two precipices are particularly diftinguiflied : one called Carfidel ; the other Gil-
nochie's garden : the lall is faid to have been the retreat of a celebrat .d outlaw ; but
originally had evidently been a fmall Britifli fortrefs, guarded on one fide by the fteeps
of the precipice, on the other by a deep intrenchment.

The ride was extremely diverfified through thick woods, or fmall thickets, with fud-
den tranfitions from the fhade into rich and wcll-hulbanded fields, boun Jed on every
fide with wooc's ; with views of other woods ftill rifing beyond. No wo' ler then that
the inhabitant > of ihcfe parts yet beliuvc the fairies revel in thefe delightfu fcenes.

Crofs the Kik, through a ford with a bottom of folid rock, having 01. one fide the
water precipitating itfeU down a precipice fi)rming a fmall cataraft, which ould atFoid
a fccne not the molt agreeable to a timid mind. The water too was of the uoft cryft..!-
line, or colourlefs ckarnefs, no ftreani I have ever feen beiag comparable; To that per-
fons who lord this river arc often led into diitrclLo, by being deceived as :o its depth,
for the gre.it tranfparency gives it an unreal ftiallowncls.

This river is inhabited by trouts, parrs, loches, minnows, cfils, and lain jries j and

.mm

ivi

ir ,M

VOL. ill.

• Kcidi's Scotch Bidiof J, 2 <o.
£ £

what

319

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

what is fingiilar, the chub, which with us loves only the deep and (Ult waters bounded
by clayey banks.

On the oppofite eminence fee Hol-houfe, a defenfible tower like that at Kirk-andrews,
and one of the feats of the famous Johnny Armftrong, Laird of Gilnockie, the moft
popular and potent thief of his time, and who laid the whole EngUfh borders under
contribution, but never injured any of his own countrymen. He always was attended
with twenty-four gentlemen well mounted : and when JiunM V. went his progrefs in
1528, exprcfsly to free the country from marauders of this kind, Gilnockie appeared
before him with thirty-fix perfons in his train *, moft gorgeoufly apparelled; and hini-
felf fo richly drelfed, that the king faid, " What wifnts that knave that a king flioulJ
have?" His majefty ordered him and his followers to immediate execution, in fpite of
the great offers Gilnockie made ; who finding all application for favour vam» he, ac-
cording to the old ballad, boldly told the king,

To fcik liot Wiiter beneath cold yee.

Surely it 13 a great foUie ;
I half ufked grace at a gracelefs face,

But there id nane for my men and me.

I faw a boy, a dlred defcendant of this unfortunate brave, who with his whole hmi^y
are faid to be diftinguifhed for their honefty and quiet difpofition, happily degenerating
from their great anceftor.

Continue my ride on a fine turnpike road, through beautiful woods, to Mr. Max-
well's of Broomholmc, environed with a moft magnificent theatre of trees, cloathing
the lofty hills, and the whole furmoimted by a barren mountain, by way of contraft.

The rent of the ground which Mr. Maxwell keeps in his own hands, and that of a
farm now disjoined from it, was in the tmfettled times of the beginning of the laft cen-
tury only five pounds Scotch, or eight ftiilHngs and four-pence Englifh. At prcfent
Mr. Maxwell's fiiare alone would take a hundred pounds ftcrling annual rent. This is
mentioned as an illuftration of the happy change of times, and the increafe of revenues
by the fecurity the owners now enjoy, by the improvements in agriculture, and the
cheapnefs of money to what they were a century and a half ago. Indeed it ihould be
mentioned that the old rent was paid by a Maxwell to a Maxwell ; and perhaps there
might be fome fmall matter of favour from tiie chieftain to his kinfman ; but even ad-
mitting fome partiality, the rife of income muft be amazing.

The road continues equally beautiful, along a fertile glen, bounded by hills and woods.
Come in view of a bridge, with the pleafing motion of a mill wheel fccn in p.-rfpcdive
through the middle arch : the river was here low, and the bed appeared rougliened with
tranlverfe waved rocks, cxtenfivcly fpread, and fliarj)ly broken.

Ihe town of Langholme appears in a I'lnnll plain, with the entrance of three dalip,
and a-^ many rivers, from which they take th.-ir names, enrerin;;- into it, viz. Waehup-
dal>.-, Kufdale, and Kfkdale ; the lafl extends thirty or lorty miles in length, and the
fides as far as I could fee, bounded by hills of fi,iootl) and venlant grafs, the fwect food
of the (iicep, the great ftaple of the country. To give an idea of the confidcrabic
tratlic cariieil on in thefe animals, the reader may be told, that from twenty to thirty-fix
ihouland hnubs are fold in the feveral fairs that are held at Langliolme in the year. 'Jo
this muft be added, the great profit made of the wool, fold into I'lngland for our coarfer
manufat^ures ; of the llieep themfelves fcnt into the louth, and even of the checfc and
butter made from the milk of the ewes f.

• Lindfcy, 147.

j- Fci a ful!(.r a(.\o.iit of i!ic iiianajjcment of llic fticep of this co.inty, vidt the Appendix.

The

MNNANT's SBC0NI> tour, in RCOTrAND.

The trudees for encouraging of improvements give annual premiums to fuch who
produce the fineft wool, or breed the bell tups j a wife meafurc in countries emerging
from iloth and poverty.

The manufaftures of Langholme are fluffs, fergcs, black and white plaids, &c. moftly
Jbld into England.

The caftle is no more than a fquare tower, or bordcr-houfc, once belonging to the
Armltrongs. In my walk .to it was Ihewn the place where feveral witches had fullered
in tlie laft century : this reminds me of a very fingular belief that prevailed not many
years ago in thcfe parts ; nothing lefs than that the midwives had power of transferring
part of the primseval curfe bellowed on our great firft mother, from the good wife to
her hu(band. I faw the reputed oftspring of fuch a labour ; who kindly came into the
world without giving her mother the leaft uneafinefs, while the poor hulband was roar- "
ing with agony in his uncouth and unnatural pains.

The magiftrates of this place are very attentive to the fupprcflinn of all excefllve ex-
ertions of that unruly member the tongue : the brank, an indrumcnt of punilhment, is
always in readinefs, and I was favoured with the fight : it is a fort of head-piece, that
opens and inclofes the head of the impatient, while an iron, (harp as a chilTel, enters the
mouth, and fubdues the more dreadful weapon within. This had been ufed a month
before, and as it cut the poor female till blood guflied from each fide of her mouth, it
would be well that the judges in this cafe would, before they exert their power again,
confider not only the humanity, but the legality of this pradice.

The learned Doftor Plot • has favoured the world with a minute defcription, and a
figure of the inftrument, and tells us, he looks on it " as much to be preferred to the
ducking-ftool, which not only endangers the health of the party, but alfo gives the
tongue liberty 'twixt every dip ; to neither of whith this is at all lyabie."

Among the various cuiloms now obfolete, the mod curious was that of hand-Bfting,
in ufe about a century part. In the upper part of Eflcdale, at the confluence of the
white and the black Elk, was held an annual fair, where multitudes of each fex repaired.
The unmarried look out for mates, made their engagement by joining hands, or by hand-
fiding, went oft' in pairs, cohabited till the next annual return of the fair, appeared
there again, and then were at liberty to declare their approbation or diflike of each
other. If each party continued conllant, the hand-filling was renewed for life ; but if
either party dilfented, the engagement was void, and both were at full liberty to make
a new choice ; but with this provifo, that the inconftant was to take the charge of the
offspring of the year of probation. This cuftom feemed to originate from the want of
clergy in this county in the days of popery. This traft was the property of the abby
of Melrofs, which through ceconomy difcontinued the vicars that were ufed to difchargc
here the clerical offices ; inftead they only made annual vifitations for the purpofes of
marrying and baptifing, atid the perfon thus fent was called Book in Bofom, probably
from his cai-rying, by way of readinefs, the book in his bread ; but even this being
omitted, the inhabitants became nccefiitat-jd at firft to take this method, which they
continued from habit to pradife long after the reformation had furniflied them with
clergy.

Perfons of rank, in times long prior to thofe, took the benefit of this cuftom ; for
Lindefcy f, in his reign of James II., fays, " That James fixth Earl of Murray begat
upon Ifabcl limes, daughter of the Laird of Innes, Alexander Dunbar, a man of fingu-
lar wit and courage. This Iflibcl was but handfill with him, and deceafed before the

* Hid. StafTordflure, 389, tab, xxxii.

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pennant's second tour m Scotland.

marriage ; where-through this Alexander he was worthy of a greater living, than he
might fucceed to by the laws and praftifes of this realm."

Of the fports of thefe parts, that of curling is a favourite, and one unknown in Eng-
land ; it is an amufement of the winter, and played on the ice, by Aiding from one
mark to another great ftones of forty to feventy pounds weight, of a hemifpherical form,
with an iron or wooden handle at top. The objeft of the player is to lay his ftone as
near to the mark as poflible, to guard that of his partner, which had been well laid be-
fore, or to ftrike off that of his antagonift.

Return and pafs the march dike, or the Scotch border, and continue at Netherby
that night.

June 2. Pafs through Longtown, a place remarkable for the great trade carried on
during the feafon of cranberries; when for four or five markets, from twenty to twenty-
five pounds worth are fold each day at three- pence a quart, and fent in fmall barrels to
London.

Crofs the Elk, on a bridge of five arches, a light ftrudure, as mofl; of the bridges of
this country are. Go through the lanes which had been rendered impaflable at the
time of the eruption of the Solway mofs, which took its courfe this way to the E(k.
The road was at this time quite cleared ; but the fields to the right were quite covered
with the black flood.

The fpace between the Elk and the Sark, bounded on the third fide by the March
dike, which crofles from one river to the other, feems properly to belong to Scotland ;
but having been difputed by both crowns, was Ityled the debateable land. But in the
reign of our James I. Sir Richard Graham obtaining from the Earl of Cumberland (to
whom it was granted by Queen Elizabeth) a leafe of this trad, bought it from the
needy monarch, and had intercft enough to get it united to the county of Cumberland,
it being indifferent to James, then in poffeflion of both kingdoms, to which of them it
was annexed.

Ride by the fide of the Roman road, that communicated betwctn Netherby and the
camp at Barrens. Crofs a fmall bridge over the Sark, and again enter Scotland.

On the banks of this rivulet the Englifh, under the command of the Earl of North*
umberland, and Magnus with a red main, received a great defeat from the Scots, under
Douglas Duke of Ormond, and Wallace of Cragie. Numbers of the former were
drowned in their flight in Solway firth, and Lord Picrcey taken prifoner; a misfortune
owing to his filial piety, in helping his father to a horfc, to enable him • to efcape.

At a little diflance from the bridge, flop at the little village of Gretna, the refort of
all amorous couples, whofe union the prudence of parents or guardians prohibits : here
the young pair may be indantly united by a firtierman, a joiner, or a blackfmith, who
marry from two guineas a job, to a dram of whilky : but the price is generally adjufled
by the information of the pofiilions from Carlifle, who are in pay of one or other of the
above worthies ; but even the drivers, in cafe of ncceffity, have been known to under-
take the facerdotal office. If the purfuit of friends provi-s very hot, and there is not
time for the ceremony, the frighted pair are advifed to flip into bed, are fhewn to their
purfuers, who imagining that they are irrecoverably united, retire, and leave theni to

confummRte lliclr unfmifbeJ loves.

This place is diftinguiflied from afar by a fmall plantation of firs, the Cyprian grove
of the place j a fort of laud-mark for iugitive lovers. As I had a great dcfire to fee

• Hill, of Douglas's, p. 179.

the

PEKNANT's SECOKD tour in SCOTLAND.

aij

the'hlgh prieft, by ftratagem I fucceeded : he appeared in form of a fiflicrman, a flout
frllow, in a blue coat, rolling round his r)lctnn chops a quid of tobacco of no common
lizc. One of our party was fuppofed to come to explore the coaft : we queilioned
him about his price ; which, after eyeing us attentively, he Itft to our honour. The
church of Scotland does what it can to prevent thefe clat.delMne matches ; but in vain,
forthofe infamous couplers defpife the fuhnination of the kirk, and excommunication is
the only penalty it can inflidl.

Continue my journey over a woodlefs flat traft, almofl hedtjelcls, but produfliiveof
excellent oats and barley. Pafs by Rig, a little hamlet, a fr- of chapel of eafe to
Gretna, in the run-away nuptials The performer here is an alehoufe keeper.

On the left is Solway firth, and a view of Kefwick- fells, between which and Burnf-
work-hill in Scotland, is a flat of forty miles, and of a great extent in length. The
country grows novv very uncultivated, and confiRs of large commons. Reach

Annan, in Annandale, another divifion of Dumfriesfliirc, a town of four or five hun-
dred inhabitants, feated on the river of the fame name. Veflels of about two hundred
and fifty tons can come within half a mile of the town, and offixty as high as the bridge.
This place has fomfe trade in wine : the annual exports are between twenty and thirty
thoufand Winchefter bufliels of corn.

The caftle was entirely demolifhed, by order of parliament, after the acceflion of
James VL, to the crown of England, and only the ditches remain. But Annan was in
a manner ruined by Wharton, lord prefident of the marches, who, in the reign of Ed-
ward VI., overthrew the church and burnt the town ; the firft having been fortified by
the Scots *, under a Lyon of the houfe of G lames.

The Bruces were once lords of this place, as appears by a ftone at prefent in a wall of
a gentleman's garden, taken from the ruins of the caftle, and thus infcribed : " Robert
de Brus Counte de Carrick et fenteur du val de Annand 1 300/'

After dinner make an excurfion of five miles to Ruthwell, pafling over the Annan
on a bridge of five arches, defended by a gateway. The country refembles that I paflfed
over in the morning j but at Newby-neck obferve the ground formed into eminences,
fo remarkable as to occafion a belief of their being artificial, but are certainly nothing
more than the freaks of nature.

The church of Ruthwell contains the ruins of a moft curious monument ; an obc-
lifl<, once of a great height, nov lying in three pieces, broken by an order of the general
afltmbly in 164^, under pretence of its being an objeft of fupurftition among the vulgar.
When entire it was probably about twenty feet high, exclufive of pedeftal and capital ;
making allowances in the meafurement of the prefent pieces for fragments cli'pped off,
when it was deftroyed : it originally confilled ot two pieces ; the lowelt, now In two,,
had been fifteen feet long ; the ujiper had been placed on the other by means of a
focket : the form was fquare and taper, but the fides of imoqual breadth : the two op-
polite on one fide at bottom were eighteen inches and a half, at top only fifteen ; the
narrower fide fixtecn at bottom, eleven at top. Two of the narrovveft fides are orna-
mented with vine-leaves, and animals intermixed with Runic charafteis around the
margin : on one of the other fides is a very rude figure of our Saviour, with each foot on
the head of fome beads : above and each fide him are infcribed in Saxon letters : " Jefus
Chriftus — judex cquitatis, certo falvatoris mundi et an" — perhaps as Mr. Gordon f
imagines, " Angelorum — bedise ct dracones cognoverant inde ;** and laftly are the
words, " frcgerunt panem."

iW'^fi;'!

AyftougU's Hill, of the wars of- Scotland and England, 321.

t Itin. \6\.

Beneath

■m

ai4

PB>INANT*S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Beneath the two animals is a compartment with two figures, one bearded, the'other
not, and above is inlcribed, " Sandus Paulus."

On the adverfe fule is our Saviour again, with Mary Magdalene wafhing his feet,
and the box of ointment in his hand. The infcriptions, as made out by Mr. Gordon,
are : '* Alabaltrum unguenti — ejus lachrymis caepit rigare pedes, ejus capillis— capitis
fui temebat— et prastcriens vidi."

The different fculplures were probably the work of different times and different na-
tions ; the firfl that of the chriftian Saxons ; the other of the Danes, who either found
thofe fides plain, or defacing the ancient carving, replaced it with imne of their own.
Tradition fays that the church was built over this obeiifk, long after its eredWon ; and
it was reported to have been tranfported here by angels, it was probably fo fecured for
the fame reafon as the fanta cafa at Loretta was, left it (hould take another flight.

The pedeftal lies buried beneath the floor of the church : I found fome fragments of
the capital, with letters fimilar to the others; and on each oppofite fide an eagle, neatly
cut in relief. There was alfo a piece of another, with Saxon letters round the lower
part of a human figure, in long veftments, with his foot on a pair of fmall globes : this
too feemed to have been the top of a crofs.

Scotland has had its vicar of Bray ; for in this church-yard is an infcription in memory
of Mr. Gawin Young, and Jean Stewart his fpoufe. He was ordained minifter in i6i 7,
when the church was prefbytorian : foon after, James VI. eftablilhed a moderate fort of
epifcopacy. In 1638, the famous league and covenant took place : the bifhops were
depofed, and their power aboliflied ; prelbytery then flourifhed in the fullnefs of acri-
mony. Seftaries of all forts invaded the church in Cromwell's tnne, all equally hating,
perfecuting, and being perfecuted in thei/ turns. In i66o, on the reftoration, epifco-
pacy arrived at its plenitude of power, and prelbyterianifm expelled; and that feft which
in their profperity fliewed no mercy, now met with retributory vengeance. Mr. Young
maintained his poft amidft all thefe changes, and what is much to his honour, fupported
his charader ; was rcfpe^ed by all parties for his moderation and learning ; lived a
tranquil life, and died in peace, after enjoying his cure fifty-four years.

The epitaph on him, his wife and family, merits prefervation, if bat to fhew the num.
ber of his children r

Far from our own amid<, our own we 1y :
Of our dear bairns, thirty and one us by.
anagram.
Gavinut juniii.s
Uiiius agni ufui
Jean ateuart
a true faint
t true faint I live it, fo I die ii.
tlio men faw no, my God did fee it.

This parifh extends along the Solway firth, which gains on the land continually, and
much is annually wafhed away : the tides recede far, and leave a vaft fpace of lands
dry. The fport of falmon-huniiag is ahnoft out of ufc, there being only one perfon on
the coaft who is expert enough to pradife the diverfion : the fportftnan is mounted on
a good horfe, and furniftied with a long fpear : he difcovers the fifh in the fhallow chan-
nels formed by Elk, purfucs it full fpeed, turns it like a grcy.hound, and after a long
chace ftldom fails to tranfix it.

The falt-makers of Ruthwell merit mention, as their method feems at prcfent quite
local. As foon as the warm and dry weather of June comes on, the fun brings up and
iacruds the furface of the fand with fait : at that time tiiey gather the faud to the depth

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

215

of an inch, carry it out of the reach of the tide, and lay it in round compaft heaps, to
prevent the fait from being waftied away by the rains : they then make a pit eight feet
long and three broad, and the fame depth, and plaiiler the infide with clay, that it may
hold w ater j at the bottom they place a layer of peat and turf, and fill the pit with the
collefted fand ; after that they pour water on it : this filters through the fand, and car-
ries the fait with it into a leflfer pit, made at the end of the great one : this they boil in
fmall lead pans, and procure a coarfe brown fait, very fit for the purpofes of faking
meat or filh. James VI., in a vifit he made to thefe parts, after his acccflion to the
crown of England, took notice of this operation, and for their induftry exempted the
poor falt-makers of Ruthwell from all duty on this commodity ; which till the union,
was in all the Scotch afts relating to the fait duties, excepted.

In this pari/h was lately difcovered a fingular road through a morafs, made of wood,
confiding of fplit oak planks, eight feet long, faftened down by long pins or ftakes,
driven through the boards into the earth. It was found out by digging of peat, and at
that time lay fix feet beneath the furface. It pointed towards the fea, and in old times-
was the road to it ; but no tradition remains of the place it came from.

Return through Annan, and after a ride over a naked traft, reach Springkeld, the
feat of Sir William Maxwell : near the houfe is the fite of Bell-caftle, where the Duke
of Albany, brother to James III., and the Earl of Douglas, lodged the night before their
defeat at Kirkonnel, a place almod contiguous. This illuftrious pair had been exiled
in England, and :nvaded their own country on a plundering fcheme, in a manner un-
worthy of them. Albany efcaped y Douglas was taken, and finilhed his life in the con*
vent of Lindores *.

In the burying-ground of Kirkonnel is the grave of the fair Ellen Irvine, and that of
her lover: flie was daughter of the houfe of Kirkonnel, and was beloved by two gentle-
iflcn at the fame time : one vowed to facrifice the fuccefsful rival to his refentment, and
watched an opportunity while the happy pair were fitting on the banks of the Kirtle, that
wafhes thefe grounds. Ellen perctivcd the defperate lover on the oppofite fide, and
fondly thinking to fave her favourite, interpofed ; and receiving the wound intended
for her beloved, fell and expired in his arms. He inflantly revenged her death ; then
fled into Spain, and ferved for fome time againft the infidels : on his return he vifited-
the grave of his unfortunate miftrefs, ftretched himfelf on it, aiul expiring on the fpot,
was interred by her fide. A fword and a crofs are engraven on the tomb-ftone, with-
*' hie jacct Adatn Fleming ;" the only memorial of this unhappy gentleman, except aa
ancient ballad of no j^reat merit, which records the traj^ical event f.

Excepting a glen near Springkeld, molt of this country is very naked. It is faid to
have been cleared of the woods by ad of parliament, in the time of James VI., in order
to dedroy th: retreat of the mols-trooperf;, a pell this part of the country was infamous
for: in fad the whole of the borders then was^ as Lindefay expreffes, no other thing
but theft, reiff and fl.iu^^hter. Thty were polTclfed by a fet of potent clans,all of Saxon
defcerit ; and, like true defcendants of Iflimael, their hands were againlt every man,
and every man's hand againft them. The Johnllons, of Lough.wood, in Annandale j
their rivals the Maxwells of Caerlavoroc, the Murrays of Cockpool, Glendonwynsof
Glendonwin, CarnMiiers of Holmain, Irvines of Bonfliaw, Jardins of Applegarth, and.
the Elliots of Liddefduic, may be enumerated among the great families.

But befid.s thefe were a fet of clans aud fuinames on the whole border, and on the

■1 . . -^Mi".

* Humi-'s Hift of ilie Doujjlas's, folio, p. 206.

I Which luppcntd ciihu th« latter end of the leign of James V., cr the beginniog of that of Mary.

debateable

2i4

PINKAKT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

c1oliatcv.ble ground, who, as my author • fays, were not landed ; many of them dirtin-
j:ui(hed by iicins dc ^ucnr, in the manner as feveral of our unfortunate bravo are at
\^\x-l\ nt, fuch as Tom 'I'rotter of the hill, the Goodman Dickfon of Bucktrig, Ralph
Burn of the (loit, George Hall, called Pat's Geordic there, the Lairds Jok, Wanton
Sym, Will c-f Powder-lampat, Arthur fire the Braes, Gray Will, Will the Lord, Willie
o' Gratna-liill, Richie Gi aham the Plump, John Skynbank, Priors John and his bairnes,
Ileior of the Ifarhw, the griefes and cuts of Harlaw-, thefe and many more, merry
men all, of Robin Hood's fraternity, fuperior to the little dillindions of meum and
tuum.

June 3. Vifit the Roman flation at Burrens, in the parifli of Middleby, feated on a
fiat, bounded i)n one fulc by the fmall water of Mien, and on another by a fmall birn.
Jt was well defended by four ditches and five dikes ; but much of both is carried away
by the winter floods in the river that bounded on one fide : a hypocauft had been dif-
covcred here, iiifcribcd Hones dug up, and coins found, fome of them of the lower em-
pire. Obferved a place formed of fquarc floncs, which I was told contained, at the
time o{ the difcovery, a quantity of grain : I was alfo informed, that there had been
a large vault a hundred and twenty feet long, defigned for a granary ; but this has long
fmce been deflroycd for fake of the materialo. Mr. Horfley imagines to have been the
L'jtuni biilgium of Antoninc, being on the north fide of the wall, with a military road
between it and Netherby, and that it was the place where Agricola concluded his fe-
cond year's expedition. As thart general was diftinguifhed for his judicious choice of
fpots of encan-pment, fo long after, his I'uccefTors made ufe of this, as appears by a
medal of Conflantius Chlorus being found here, for that Emperor lived about two
hundred and twenty years after Agricola.

The country now begins to grow very hilly, but ufefully fo, the hills being verdant,
and formed for excellent flieep-walks : on the fides of one called Burnfwork, about
two miles from Burnns, are two beautiful camps, united to each other by a rampart,
that winds along the fide of a hill ; one camp being on the fouth-eaft, the other on the
norlh-w eft : one has the pratorium yet vifible ; and on the north fide are three round
tumuli, each joined to it by a dike, projecting to fome diftance from the ramparts, as
if to pretzel the gate on that quarter, for each of thefe mounts had its little fort : the
other camp had two of thefe mounts on one fide, and one on each end j but the veftiges
of thefe are very faint : both of thefe camps were furrounded with a deep ditch, and a
Arong rampart both on tlie infide and the outfide of the fofs ; and on the very fummit
of the hill is a fmall irregular intrenchment, intended as exploratory, far the view from
thence is uninterrupted on every part. Thefe camps are very accurately planned by
Mr. Gordon, tab. i. p. 16. Thefe alfo were the work of Agricola, and highly probable
to be, as Mr.TIorflcy imagines, the fummer camp of that at Burrens.

The view from the fummit is extremely cxtenfive : the town of Lochmaban, witli
its lake and ruined callle, built on a heart-fhapcd peninfula ; Queenlbury-hill, which
gives title to the Duke ; Hartsfcll, and tlie Loders, which difpute for height ; yet a
third, tht DrifFels, was this day patched with faow j and laftly, Ericflone, which fofters
the Annan, the Clyde, and the Iweed.

Defcend and pais through the final! town of Ecclefechan (occlefia Fechani), noted for
the great monthly markets for cattle.

Niar this place, on the cftate of Mr. Irvine, writer, was found an antiquity whofe ufe
is ratlior doubtful : the metal is gold ; the length rather more than iv.ynin inches and

• T,ikf:) from a frarjaie-:'. of a -; larlo book, printed in iCo?, containing nair.cs of clans in every flieiiff-
don, f<c f* ■.

7 a half;

pennant's 8BC0ND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

117

a half; the weight 2 oz. and a half, and 15 gs. It is round and very flender tn the
middle, at each end grows thicker, and of a conoid form, terminating with a flat circular
plate : on the fide of one end are (lamped the words Helcnus fecit ^ on the other is
prick'd .... IIIMB. From the flendemefs of'the middle part, and the thicknefs of
the ends, it might perhaps ferve as a faftcning of a garment, by inferting it through holes
on each fide, and then twiiling together this pliant metal.

Keep along the plain, arrive again on the banks of the Annan, and have a very ele-
gant view of its wooded margent, the bridge, a light ftrufturc with three arches, one of
fifty-feet, the others of twenty-five, with the turrets of Hoddam cadle a little beyond,
overtopping a very pretty grove.

The caftle confifts of a great fquare tower, with three flender round turrets : the
entry through a door protefted by another of iron bars ; near it a fquare hole, by way
of dungeon, and a ftaircafe of ftone, fuitec! to the place ; but inftcad of finding a cap-
tive damfel and a fierce warder, met with a courteous laird and his beauteous fpoufe ;
and the dungeon not filled with piteous captives, but well llored with generous wines,
not condemned to a long imprifonment.

This caftle, or rather ftrong border-houfe, was built by John Lord Harries, nick-
named John de Reeve, a ftrenuous fupporter of Mary Stuart, who conveyed her fafe
from the battle of Langfide to his houfe at Teirigles, in Galloway, and from thence to
the abbey of Dundrannan, and then accompanied her in a fmall veflel in her fatal flight
into England. Soon after it was furrendered • to the regent Murray, who appointed
the Laird of Drumlanrig governor and lord of the marches. Before the acceflion of
James VI., Hoddam was one of the places of defence on the borders ; for " the houfe
of Howdam was to be keped with ane wife ft:ont man, and to have with him four well-
horfed men, and thir to have two ftark footmen fervants to keep their horfcs, and the
principal to have ane ftout footman f."

In the walls about this houfe are preferved ahars and infcriptions found in the ftation
at Burrens : as they do not appear to have fallen under the notice of the curious, an
enumeration of them perhaps will not be unacceptable, therefore fliall be added in the
appendix.

Near Hoddam, on an eminence, is a fquare building, called the Tower of Repentance.
On it is carved the word Repentance, with a ferpent at one end of the word, and a dove
at the other, fignifying remorfe and grace. It was built by a Lord Harries, as a fort
of atonement for putting to death fome prifoners whom he had made under a promife
of quarter.

Proceed over a country full of low hills, fome parts under recent cultivation, others
in a healthy (late of nature. Reach, in a well cultivated and woody flat, the callle and
houfe of Comlongam, the property of Lord Stormont, and the birth-place of that orna-
ment of our ifland, Lord Mansfield.

The caftle confifts of a great fquare tower, now almoft in ruins, though its walls of
near thirteen feet in thicknefs might have promifed to the architeft a longer duration.
Many fmall rooms are gained out of the very thicknefs of the fides ; and at the bottom
of one, after a defcent of numbers of tteps, is the noifome dungeon, without light or
even air-holes, except the trap-door in the floor, contrived for the lowering in of the
captives. This fortrcfs was founded by one of the anceftors of the Murrays, Earls of
Annandale, a title which failed in that name about the time of the Reftoration.

* Holliiiihed'iHift-ofScotl. 39J.
VOL. III.

r F

f Border Lawi, app. 197.

■:kM

Juni;

;i3

PENNANTS SBQONO TOUR IN OCOTLAND.

June 4. RiMe along the flioro by tho end of Lockernefs, a morafs of about ten milos
in length, aikl three in brtadth, with the little water of Locker running through it.
This iviOi, from recent furvey, appears to have been overflowed by the fea, which con-
firms the tradition relating to fuch an event. This invafion of the tides was certainly
but tenijjorary, for fVoni the numbers of trees, roots, and other vegetable marks found
there, it is evident that this morafs was, in fome very diflant period, an extenfive forelt.
Near a place called Kilblain I met with one of the ancient canoes of the primaeval inha-
bitants of the country, when it was probably in the fame (late of nature as Virginia,
when firll difcovered by Captain Philip Amidas. The length of this little veffel was eight
feet eight, of the cavity of fix feet feven, the breadth two feet, depth eleven itiches; and
at one end were the remains of three pegs for the paddle : tho hollow was made with
fire, in the very manner that the Indians of America formed their canoes, according to
the faithful reprefentation by Thomas Harriot *, in De Bry's publication of his draw-
ings. Another of the fame kind was found in J 736, with its paddle, in the fame mo-
ral's : the lad wits feven feet long, and dilated to a confiderablc breadth at one end ; fo
that in early ages neceflity dictated the fame inventions to the moft remote regions !•
Thefo were long prior to our vitiiia navi^ia, and were in ufe in feveral ancient nations :
the Greeks called them Movo^vXx and (ry.x(pn : fome held three perfons, others only
one I ', and of this kind feems to have been that now mentioned. Thofe ufed by the
Germans § were of a vaft fize, capable of holding thirty men ; and the Gauls on tho
Rhone had the fame fpecies of boats, but were indifferent about their fhape, and content
if they would but float, and carry a large burden ||.

At Mr. Dickfon's, of Lockerwood, faw a curiofity of another nature, found in the
neighbourhood : a round pot of mixed metal, not unlike a fmall Ihallow mortar, with
two rings on one fide, and two handles on the other.

Over Lockermofs is a road remarkable for its origin : a ftranger, a great number of
years ago, fold fome goods to certain merchants at Dumfries upon credit : he difap-
peared, and neither he nor his heirs ever claimed the money : the merchants in expec-
tation of the demand very honeftly put out the fum to intereft ; and after a lapfe of
more than forty years, the town of Dumfries obtained a gift of it, and applied the fame
towards making this ufeful road. Another is now in execution by the military, which
is alfo to pafs over Lockermofs, and is intended to facilitate the communication between
North Britain and Ireland, by way of Port Patrick.

In this morning's ride, pais by a fquare inclofure of the fize of half an acre, moated
round. This was a place of refuge ; for in family difputes, fuch was truly neceflary,
and here any perfon who came remained in inviolable fecurity.

See the ifle of Cuerlaveroc, with a border-houfe in the middle, built by a Max-
well. This place is far from the fea ; but ftyled an ifle becaufe moated.

Vifit Wardlaw, a iiiull hill with a round Britifli camp, furrounded with two fofles on
the top ; and on the fouth fide the faint velliges of a Roman camp, now much ploughed
up. The profpe(fk from this eminence is fine, of the firth, the difcharge of the river
Nith or Nid, the Nobius of Ptolemy, and a long extent of the hills of Galloway.

The Roman encampment on this hill might probably be the Uxelum of Ptolemy,
cfpecially if we are to derive that word from the Britifli, ucAely high ; for the fite of the

• A fervant of Sir Walter Rali igh, feiit to Virgiiv'a to make drawings and ol)fervatioiis.
f My ingenious frieiid Mr. Stu.irt tclls mc, tliat the Greeks dill made ufe of canoes of this kind, to
ufs frnull .irms of the lea ; and tliat they llylc them Mc>o?u?.a, from bcinjf formed of gnc piece of wood.
+ Pr.lvari ^;ir^f.Tirfm. lib, V, c. 2;. p. 5oy, V cllcius raltrcidus, hb. li. c. I07.

cro

\ Polyirii S'.rdtaije

I riiuiiirlill. Nat. xw. c. .(O.

II Livii, llb.xvi, c. 26.

fortrefs

pennant's second tOVK m SCOTLAND.

219

fbrtrefs of Caerlaveroc is on fuch a flat as by no means to admit of that epithet, or to
be allowed to have been the ancient Uxelum, as Mr. Horfley conje^'^'rcs.

Thecaftle has undergone its different fieges: the fird that appear^ hiftory, and the
mod celebrated, was in the year 1300, when Edward I. fat down before it in pcrfon.
Enraj^ed at the generous regard the Scots (hewed for their liberty, and the unremitted
efforts made by their hero Wallace, to free his country from a foreign yoke, the Enolifli
monarch fummoned his barons, and all the nobility who held of him by military tenure,
to attend with their forces at Carlifle on the feaft of St. John the Baptilt. Oa that oc.
cafion, as the poet of the expedition relates, there appeared,

foifTant et vint et fept ban Feres *,

each of which, with the arms of the baron, are illuminated in a beautiful manner ; and
in the catalogue are the names t of the moll puiflant peers of this kingdom, with a
little euloge on each ; as a fpeciinen, is given that of Robert ChlFord, ia whom it may
be fuppofed valour and beauty were combined :

Se je f ftoie nne pticellette
• Jc Je douroie ciier 1 1 con,
Tant ell de lui bonis li rccori.

The poet then defcrtbes the caftle and its fituation with great exaftnefs, and gives it
the very fame form and fite it has at prefent ; fo that I cannot help thinking that it was
never fo entirely deftroyed, but that fome of the old towers yet remain :

Kaerlaverok cafteausedoit
Si fort lei fie^e ne dnubtoit ;
Ainz ki 11 rois illicec venift.
Car rendre mi le convenift.
James mais kill riill a ion droit,
Gariiiz qiiant befogns en vendroit
Dcgent deengint et de vitaille.
Com un!i efcus eftoit de taille,
Car ni ol ke irois coftez entnur,
Et en chtfcune angle une lour.
Men ki le une eftoit jiimilee,
Tant hauti et tant Inngue et tant lei,
Ke par defouz eftoit la porte
A pont tournis, bien faiie et forte,
Et autres defenfea aflea, Sec,

It is worth obferving, that it was taken by force of engines, and the Englifli as late as
the time in quedion ufed much the fame method of attack as the Greeks and Romans
did ; for they drove the enemy from the walls by fliowers of ftones, flung from engines
fimilar to the catcpulta of the ancients ; and they ufed alfo arietes, or battering rams.

Entre Ics affaiM efmaia,
F rere Robrrt kienvoia
Mtinte piere par Robinet ;
Jnq au loir dts le mptinet
Jje jour devant cefle ne avoit,
De autre part ancore i levoit
Tvoiy autres ergins moult plus grans
Et il penlbles et engrans,
Ke le chadel du tout confondl
Tant il rtceut mo't piereerfondc.
Dcfchocs et kang's ateint fcnt
A fes coups rien ne fe defFent.

• I am indebted to Marmaduke Tunftall, Efq for the M. S. account of this fiege, finely copied from the
original, in the Mufiura j which appears to have been compofed in very old bad French, foon after the
cvtnt it csltbratcd. f Appendix.

FF2 On

-•1

.iM

120 pennant's gECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND*

On the furrender Edward behaved with more moderation than was ufual to hhnt
for his laurels were wont to be blighted with deeds unworthy of his hcroifm ; but ia
this cafe the poor reliqucs of the garrifon experienced his clemency :

I^or» fon Iflii'cnc ce eft U fomc «

Ke de iins Ice de autret faidant home

A grant mcrveille rcfguardei

Mei tenui furent et giiardez

'Pant ke li Royi tn ordena

Ki vie et mcmhre Iciir donna

Et ■ chafm robe nouueic,

Lort fu joieufc la nouul}.

A totite li oft du chaftel pri»

Ki tant clloit de noble pri*.

It appears that the king immediately mounted his colours on the dftle ; and ap.
pointed three barons of the fird reputation to take charge of it.

Puis fift le Rojr porter amont
Sa bannirre et la feynt Kymont
La faint George ci la faint Edwart
Et u r.det par droit efwart
I^a b'cgravc et le Herifurt
Et ceW au Seigneur di Cliffort
A ki le chafteaui fut donnct.

NotAnithftanding the care Edward took to fccure this place, it was retaken by the
Scots the following year ; but very foon after was repofleffed * by the Englifli, after a
very long fiege. It appears that the Scots again recovered it, for in one of the invafions
of the former, the gallant owner. Sir Euftace Maxwell, fupported a fiege in it of fome
weeks, and obliged the enemy to retire ; but conAdering that it might fall into the hands
of the Englifh, and become noxious to his country, generoufly difmantled it, and for
that piece of difinterclled fcrvice was properly rewarded by his prince, who remitted
to him and his heirs for ever, the annual pecuniary acknowledgments they paid to the
crown for the caftlo and lands of Catrlaveroc f. It was again rebuilt; biu in 135^
(being then in pofl'efllon of the Englilh) was taken by Roger Kirkpatric, and levelled
to the ground J. Notwitliftanding thefe repeated misfortunes, it was once more re-
Itored ; and once more ruined by the Earl of Suflcx in 1570 ||. From this time the
lords of the place fccm for fome interval to have been difcouraged from any attempt
towards reftoring a fortrefs fo diftinguifhed by its misfortunes ; for Camden in 1607,
fpeaks of it as only a weak houfe belonging to the Barons of Maxwell ; yet once more
Robert firft Earl of Nitbfdalfj-, in 1638, ventured to re-eftablifli the ftrong hold of the
family ; ftill it was ill-fated j for in the courle of Cromwell's ufurpation, it was fur-
rtndered on terms ill prcfcrved, and a receipt was given for the furniture by one Finch ;
in which, among other particulars, is mention of eighty beds, a proof of the hofpitality
or the fplendor of the place. The form of the prefent caftle is triangular ; at two of
the corners had been a round tower, but one is now demoli(hed, and on each lide the
gateway, which forms the third angle, are two rounders. Over the arch is the crefl; of
the Maxwells (placed tliere when the caftle was laft repaired) with the date, and this

• Maitland'» Hlft. Scot. II. 460. f Crawford** Peersgc uf Scotland, 370.

■J Major dc gellis ^cotornm, 24(<. more probably rendenj dcfcncckfs.

II Camden 1 annals in Kcnnct, 11. 429. It appears to mc that the prefent are the antient towerc, fo
e!ia4\ly do they anfwer to the old pottic defcriptioa j but that the ownersj till the year 163I:), negltcled it
M a furtrefs, yet iuhabitcd it as a niaiifloii.

motto.

PClfNANT'fl SECOND TOUR IN SCOTtANr

•SI

motto, •* I bid ye fair," meaning Wardlaw, the hill where the gibbet (ktmii } for in
feudal times, it fecms to have been much in ufe.

The caftlc yard is triangular : one fide, which feems to have been the rcfidence of th
family, is very elegantly built ; has three (lories, with very handfome window caf*-^ .
on the pediment of the lower are coats of arms ; over the fecond legendary talt s ;
over the third, I think, Ovidian fables, all neatly cut in ftone. The oppofite fule is
plain. In front is a handfome door cafe, leading to the great hall, which is ninety-ono
feet by twenty-fix. The whole internal length of that fide a hundred and twenty-
three.

The antlent caftle ftood about three hundred yards fouth-eaft of the prefcnt building.
It is of the fame (hape, but fomewhat lefs, and lurrounded by a double ditch.

The Maxwells, Lords of Caerlaveroc, are of great antiquity : but their hidory mixed
with all the misfortunes and all the difgrace fo frequent in ill-governed times. They
and the Johnftons had perpetual feuds : in J593 the clans had a conflid at iheHoInels
of Dryfe ; the chieftain of the Maxwells, and many of his Ions were flain. John, a
furvivmg fon, takes his revenge : a meeting between him and Johnfton, a predeceffor
of the Marquis of Annandale, was appointed in order to coinpromife all diflerences ;
both met, attended only by a finglc friend to each ; the friends quarrel ; the Laird of
Lockerwood goes to part them, but is fhot through the back by the other chieftain ;
who defcrvedly met his fate on the fcafFold a few years after. His forfeiture was taken
off, and his brother not only reftored but created Earl of Nithfdale : in 1715 the title
was loft by the convi£lion of the Earl of that day ; who efcaped out of the tower the
night before execution, by the difguife of a female drefs. The eftate by virtue of en-
tail was preferved to the heirs.

Continue my ride along the coaft to the mouth of the Nith, which empties itfelf into
the vaft eftuary, where the tide flows in fo faft on the level fands that a man well
mounted would find difficulty to efcape, if furprifed by it. The view of the oppofite
fide of Creffel, and the other Galloway hills, is very beautiful, and the coaft appeared •
well wooded. In a bottom liesNewby abby, founded by Devorgilla, daughter to Alan,
Lord of Galloway, and wife to John Baliol, Lord of Caftle-Bernard, who died and was
buried here : his lady embalmed his heart, and placed it in a cafe of ivory, bound with
filver, near the high altar ; on which account the abby isoftener called Sweet-heart and
Suavi'Cordium.

Pafs by Fort-Kepel, the firth gradually contrafting itfelf; and to this place veflels of
two hundred tons may come. The country on both fides the river is extremely beautiful ;
the banks decorated with numerous groves and villas, richly cultivated and well inclofcd.
The farmers ftiew no want of induftry ; they import, as far as from Whitehaven, lime
for manure, to the annual amount of twenty-five hundred pounds, paying at the rate
of fixpence for the Winchefter bufliel : they are alfo fo happy as to have great quanti-
ties of fhell marl in the neighbouring moralfes j and are now well rewarded for the ufe
of it ; much wheat and barley are at prefent the fruits of their labour, inftead of a
very paltry oat ; and good hay inltead of rufhes now clothe their meadows. Reach

Dumfries, a very neat and well-built town, feated on the Nith, and containing about
five thoulimd fouls. It was once pofleffed of a large ftiare of the tobacco trade, but
at prefent has Icarcely any commerce. The great weekly markets for black cattle are
of much advantage to the place; and vaft droves from Galloway and the (hire of Ayr
pafs through in the way to the fairs in Norfolk and Suffolk.

The two churches are remarkably neat, and have handfome galleries, fupported by
pillars. In the church-yard of St. Michael are feveral monuments in form of pyramids,

very

323 PENMANT'« second TOUK, IN SCOTLAND.

very ornamental, and on foine Rravc-ftoncs are infcriptlons in memory of tho martyrs
of the country, or the poor vii^tims to the violence of the apolhte archbifliop Sharp, or
the bigotry of James II. before and after his accellion. Powers were given to an in.
human let of milcreants to dellroy \i\vm fufpicion of difaffeftion ; or for even declining;
to ^ive aufwers declarative of their political principles ; and fuch who refuled (before
two witnelVeb) were iiillantly put to death. Many poor pcafants were fliot on moors,
on the (hores, or wherefoever their enemies met with them : pcriiape? enthufiulm mij^ht
polTefs the fuflerers; but an infernal fpirit hid pollellion of their perfecutnrs. The
memory of thele (Itgitious deeds are prcfervcd on many of the wild mnors by infcribed
gravc-ftones, much to the fame efl'cd as the following in the church-yard in this
city ;

On John Grierfon, who fufTered Jan. i, 1667.

t'r<liiiu'alli lliia ftonr ilolli lie

Dull l:iL-iirirr(| tii tyranny ;

Yet picciou* ill Inimnniul'ii (igliti

Since marlyr'd lot lili l^iiiRly |■'^!^lt ;

Winn lie con.lctnnn tlirff lii-liini (Iruilijr*

By li.n"rr*jti', faints (hall bt llu' r jiiilj.;cj.

Another on James Kirke, fnot on the fands of Dumfries, fltall conclude this dread*
ful fubjcd :

By bloody Pnicr ami wrrtclicd Wiight
I li II my life in v'rt.it <Ufi)ij;lit
Miot (liiiJ Mithoiit tliir time to try
And lit me for ricrn ly.
A wiNirfh of pM'latic rJ){C
As tvir \va>. ill any a^e.

This place like mofl other confiderabltr towns in Scotland, has its feceders' chapel :
thefe are the rigid prefbyteriaiis who pofllfs their r li,;i()n in ail its original lournefs ;
think their church in danger bicaufe their niinilfeis i!e>!enerate into m()J(.ratinn, and
wear a gown ; or vindicate patinnage. I'o avoid thele horrul iiinovaiioiis, they fepa.
rate themielves from their imaginary falle bn-thren ; renew a luL inn leaguj and cove-
nant, and prelerve to the bed of their power all the rags and ntts bequeathed to them
by John Knox, which tiie more ftnfible preacherb of this day are lliiving to darn and
patch.

Here I firfl found on this fide the Tweed, my good old mntht^r church become a
mere conventicler, and her chaplain fupported by a iewof her chiUlren, tlifpofcd to llick
to her in all conditions.

Inquired for the convent of Dominicans, and the church in which Robert Rnicc and
his aliociatcs flew JohnCuuiinin, I.orJ oi Badenock, and owner of gnat part t t liie lord-
Ihip of Ualloway. Cummin had betrayed to Kdwanl I. the generous defign of Bruce
to relieve his country Irom llavery ; in relentment Bruce lUibbed liim ; on retiring,
was afk_'d I y his friends, whttlier he was fure of liis blow, but anTwering with ibme
degree of uncertainty, one of them, Roger Kirkpatric, replied, I mac ftckcr, rettirned
into the church and completed the ileid. In nien-ory, the f«miiy adumed a bloody
dagger for a crt ft, and thofe words as the moito. 'ihe church thus dcfded with blood
was pulled down ; and another built in a diflcrtiit place, anci dedicated to St. Michael,
the tutelar faint of the town. Robert Bruce alio built a chapel here, as fbon as he got
full pofl'efllon of the kingom, in which prayers were to be daily offered for the repofe
of ilie luid of Sir Chriitopher S(.tt)n, who v^as moil barbarouily executed by Edward I.
for his attachment to Bruce, and for his defence of his country.

Dumfries

rP.NNANT'8 SECOND TOUR IN iCOTI.AND. §ty

Dumfnos was continu:\lly fubjed to the inmiul.s of the Ent;lifli ; ami was frcquontly
riiincJ by thvin. To prevent their iiivanona ajjroiit ilitcli aiul inouiul, calUd W.irJir's
diki'3, were formtj from the Nith to Lockeniuils, where watth and ward were con.
Uantly kept ; and when an enemy appeared the cry was a Lorshurn, a Lorcbtirn. 'i ha
moaning is no further known, than liiat it was a word ol alarm tor the inhabitants to
take their anus : and the lame WDrd as a memento ol' vijjilanee is inlcribed on a ring
of lilver round the ebony Half given into the hands of the provoll as a badge of olHcc
on tlie day wi iiiiniial eleiikion.

On molt ul the eminences of thcfe parts beacons were likewife eftablilhed for
alarmim; tiie country on any irruption of their fouthern neighbours : and the inhabit-
ants able to bear arms were hound, on the firing of thefe lignais, to repair iiillantly
to the warden t)f the marches, and not to ilep:u't till the enemy was driven out of the
country, and this uiuler pain of high trealbn.

This regulation was eltablillied in the days of Archibald the Grim, Karl of Douglas,
and afterwards reiieweil with much folemnity by William Earl of Doughis, who al-
femblod the lords, freeholders, and principal borderers at the college of Lincluden, and
caufed them there to fwear on the holy evangelills, that they flioulil truly obferve tha
Itatutes, ordinances, and ufages of the marclies, as they were ordained in the time of
the faid Archibald.

June 5. Had a beautiful view of an artificial water-fall juft in front of a bridge,
originally built by Devorgilla, who gave the ciilloms ariling from it to the I'Vancilcan
convent at Dumfries. It confills of nine arches, and conneds this county and that of
Galloway.

Crofs it ; pafs through a finall town at its foot, and walk up GorbcUy hill, remark-
able for the fine circumambient profped of the charming windings of the Nith towards
the fea, the town of Dumfries, Tcrregles, a houfe of the Maxwells, and a rich vale to-
wards the north.

Vifit the abby of Lincluden, about half a mile diftant, feated on the water of the
Cluden, which is another boundary of Galloway on that fide. This religious houfe
is feated on a pleafant bank, and in a rich country : and was founded and filled with
Bcncdidine nuns, in the time of Malcolm IV. • by Uthred, father to Roland, Lord of
Galloway. Thefe were expelled by the Earl of Douglas (known by the titles of Archi-
bald the Black, or Grim, and the Terrible) probably, as Major infmuates, on account
of the impurity of their lives f, for the Earl was a man in piety fingular through his life,
and inofl religious according to thole times. He fixed in their places a provollry,
with twelve beadfmen, and changed the name to that of the college.

Part of the houfe and chancel, and fome of the fouth wall of the church are the
fole remains of this antient ftrudure : in the chancel is the elegant tomb of Margaret,
daughter of Robert IIL and wife of Archibald Earl of Douglas, firll Duke of Terouan,
and fon ot Archibald the Grim. Her effigy, at full length, lay on the ftone, her head
rclling on two cufliions ; but the figure is now mutilated, and her bones, till lately,
were icattercd about in a moll indecent manner, by fome wretches who broke open
the ropofitory in fearch of treafure. The tomb is in form of an arch, with all parts
moft beautifully carved : on the middle of the arch is the heart, the Douglas's anns,
guarded by three chalices, fet crolfways, with a ftar near each, and certain letters I
':ouId not read. On the wall is infcribed,

A L'uide de Dicu.

* Hope'ij Minor Praflics, 511, Malcolm dicil, \\(t^,

•f Major dc Gcfh Scot. zW^. Arcliibald died A. D. 140a.

and

Iff

Ql;

ni-''

fei

ill!

' -', '

;1 ■

atA

rENNAMT's aSCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

and at fome diftance beneath,

Hie jacet D-na Margareta regi'i Scotic fiUa qusdam comitlflTa de Douglas Dna Gollovldl«
et vallii Annandis.

In the front of the tomb are nine fhieids, contsuning as many arms : in one are the
three ftars, the original coat of this great houfe, for the heart was not added till the
good Sir James was employed in carrying that of Robert Bruce to the Holy Land :
befides thefe, are the arms after that event j and alfo their arms as Lords of Annan-
dale, Galloway and Niddefdale. Near the tomb is a door-cafe, richly ornamented
with carving ; and on the top the heart and chalices, as in the former.

In other parts of the remains of the church are the arms of the Douglaffes, or
Dukes of Terouan, Earls of Angus, of Ormond, and of Murray ; here are befides the
arms of John Stewart, Earl of Athol, with the motto, " Firth, fortune, and fil the
fetters."

Beneath one of tlie windows are two rows of figures ; the upper of angels, the
lower of a corpfe and other figures, all much defaced, but feemingly defigned to ex-
prcfs the preparations for the interment of our Saviour.

Behind the houfe are veftiges of a flower-garden, with the parterres and fcrolls very
vifible ; and near that a great artificial mount, with a fpiral walk to the top, which is
hollowed, and has a turf feat around to command the beautiful viows ; fo that the
provoft and his beadfmen feem to have confujted the luxuries as well as neceflaries of
Ufe.

Return to Dumfries, where Mr. Hill, furgcon, favoured me with the fight of the
head of an old lady, excellently painted, about forty years ago, by Mr. John Patoun,
fon to a minifter in this town. After painting three years in Scotland, about the year
1730 he went to London, where he read leftures on the theory of his art ; at length
was tempted to make a voyage to Jamaica, where he died in a few weeks, leaving
behind him the character of a good man and able artifl

Before we left the town, we were honoured with its freedom, beftowed on us in the
politeft. manner by the magiftrates.

June 6. Continue my journey due north through the beautiful Nithfdale, or vale of
Nith, the river meandring with bold curvatures along rich meadows ; and the country,
for fome fpace, adorned with groves and gentlemen's feats. At a few miles diftance
from Dumfries, leave on the left Bardanna- and Keir, conjeftured by Mr. Horfley to
have been the Carbantorigum of Ptolemy. Travel over fmall hills, either covered with
com, or with herds of cattle, flocks of black-faced flieep, attended by little paftors,
wrapped in their maides *, and fetting the feafons at defiance The river (till keeps its
beauty, wandering along a verdant bottom, with banks on each fide cloathed with wood
and the more diftant view hilly. Ride through a traft covered with broom, an indica-
tion of barrcnnefs ; and arrive in fight of Drumlanrig, a houfe of the Duke of
Queenfbury, magnificently feated on the fide of a hill, an immenfe mafs embofomed
in trees. Crofs a handfome bridge of two arches, of a vart height above the Nith,
which fills the bottom of a deep and wooded glen j and, after a long afcent through
a fine and well-planted park, arrive at the houfe :

A fquare building, extending an hundred and forty-five feet in front, with a fquarc
tower at each comer, and tkree fmall turrets on each : over the entrance is a cupola,

* A fort of long cloak,

whoff

PENKAKT's 8SC0NO TOUR IM SeOTLAMV)^

s«5

whofe top is in fliape of a vaft ducal coronet ; within is a court, and at each angle %
round tower, each containing a ftair-cafe : every where is a wearifome profufion of
hearts carved in ftone, the Douglas arms : every window, from the bottom to the third
ftory, is well fecured with iron bars ; the two principal doors have their grated guards ;
and the cruel dungeon was not forgot ; fo that the whole has the appearance of a mag-
nificent ftate prifon. Yet this pile rofe in compofed times ; it was built by Williatu
Dukeof Queenfbury, begun in 1679, and completed in 1689. His grace feemed to
have regretted the expence ; for report fays, that he denounced, in a writing on the
bundle of accounts, a bitter curfe on any of his poderity who offered to infpeft them.

The apartments are numerous : the gallery is a Iiandred and eight feet long, with a
fire place at each end : it is ornamented with much of Gibbon's carving, and fomegood
portraits ; obfervcd among them.

The firft Dutchefs of Somerfet, half length, no cap, with a fmall lovo-lock.

William Duke of Queeiifbui-y, diftinguilhed in the reigns of Charles and James II., by
many court favours, by his fervices to thofe monarchs, by his too grateful return in aflid-
ing in the cruel perfecutions of his countrymen averle to the tell, and by his honourable
difgrace, the moment James found him demur to a requed fubverfive, if complied with,
of the religion and liberties of Great Britain.

John Earl ofTraquair, Lord High Treafurer of Scotland in the turbulent reign of
Charles I., a prudent friend of the indifcreet Laud, and like him a zealous churchman ;
but unlike him, waited for a proper feafon for bringing his project to bear, inflead of
precipitating matters like the unfortunate prelate. A faithful fervant to the crown j
yet, from his wife advice brought under the fcandal of duplicity. Was cleared early
from the fufpcion by the noble hiftorian ; and foon after more indifputably by his im-
peachment, and by his conviction by the popular party ; by his imprifonment ; by his
taking arms in the royal caufe on his releafe ; by his feccnd confinement ; by the fe-
queftration of his edatcs : and finally by the diftrefsfui poverty he endured till deaths
he gave full but unfortunate teftimony of untainted loyalty.

John Earl Rothes, Chancellor of Scotland, in his gown, with the feals by him. He
was in power during the cruel perfecutions of the covenanters in Charles II 's time ; and
difcharging his trult to the fatisfadion of the court, was created Duke of Rothes, a title
that died with him.

A head of the Duke of Perth, in a bufhy wig : a pod-abdication Duke, a converted
favourite of James II. and Chancellor of Scotland at the time of the revolution, when he
retired into France.

George Douglas, Earl of Dumbarton in armour ; a great wig and cravat. Inflrufted
in the art of war in the armies of Louis XIV. was general of the forces in Scotland un-
der James II. difperfed the army of the unfortunate Argyle. A gallant ofGcer, who
when James was at Salilbury, generoufly offered to attack the Prince of Orange with his
fingle regiment of the Scottifli Royal, not with the hope of viftory, but of giving him
fuch a check as his fovereign might take advantage of : James, with equal generofity,
would not permit the facrifice of fo many brave men. Dumbarton adhered to his king
in all fortunes, and on the abdication partook of his exile.

General James Douglas, who in 1 69 1 died at Namur.

Earl of Clarendon, Ion of the Chancellor, half-length in his robes.

A good portrait of a Tripoli Ambaffador.

In the gardens, which are moll expenfively cut out of a rock, is a bird cherry, of a
great fize, not lefs than feven feet eight inches in girth } and among feveral fine filver
tirs, one thirteen feet and a half in circumference.

VOL. III. o c June

'■m

■::1M

1:1' . .H^

■■\i--' A

:|i3) y

ti6

PBNNTAKT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

' June 6th. In my walks about the park fee the white breed of wild cattle, derived
from the native raccof the country; and ftiU retain the primaeval favagenefs and fero-
city of their anceftors : .were more fty than any deer; ran away on the appearance of
any of the human fpecies, and even fct oft' at full gallop on the ieaft noife ; lo that I was
under the neceflity of going very foftly under the fhelter of trees or bulhes to get a near
view of them : during fummer they keep apart from all other cattle, .but in fevere
weather hunger will compel them to vifit the oiu-houfesin fearch of food. The keep-
ers are obliged to (hoot them, if any are wanted : if the bead is not killed on the fpot
it runs at the pcrfon who gave the wound, and who is forced in orucr lo favc himfelf,
to fly for fafety to the intervention of fome tree.

'Ihefe cattle are of a middle fize, have very long legs, and the c iws are fine horned :
the orbits of the eyes and the tips of the nofes are black : but the bulls have loft the
manes attributed to them by Boethius.

Ride to Morton caftle, about four miles dirtant, feated on a fteep projeftion,in a lofty
fituation, near the Auchenlec hills. This was originally the feat of Uunenald, prede-
ceflbrof Thomas Randolph, afterwards created Earl of Murray by Robert Bruce,
when that caftle and that of Auchencafs, near MoSat, was difpofed of to Douglas of
Morton, predeceflbr of the Earls oi* Morton : but at the time that title was conferred,
the caftle and lands of Morton being fettled on a Ion of a fecond marriage of that family,
the parliament, on a proteftation on his part, declared, fhat the bellowing that title
fhould not prejudice his right to the caftle and lands, but that it was taken from a place
called Morton in Weft-Lothian.

At prefent remains only one front, with a number of fmall windows, each to be af-
cended ontheinfide by a flight of ^eps: at each end is alfo a rounded tower. I find
little of its hiftory, any farther than that it was among the caftles demoliftied by
David II*, on his return from England, probably in compliance with a private agree-
ment made with Edward HI.

Two miles north from Morton ftood the caftle of Durifdeer, demoliftied at the famo
time with the former. In the church of Durifdeer is the maufoleum of the family of
Drumlanrig: over the door of the vault are four fpiral pillars fupporting a canopy, all
of marble : and againft the wall is a vaft monument in mL>mory of James Duke of
Qutenfbury : his grace lies reclined on his arm, with the collar of S. S. round his neck.
ThfDutchefs, in her robes, recumbent; four angels hold a fcroll above, with thi^jn-
frrirtion :

I]ic
ii) fodem tumulo
cum cliaiidlmi's coiijii^ris ci'neribus
mifci voliiit fuis
• jacobui Dux Quceiifbariae et Dovernl ;
0^.1 i
ad lot ct taiila lionoiis
Kt nij'oiuirum fallrf>ia
■Qna tuiilus antt'i fubditus
attt;.Mt, fvcctus, Loiidiiii
(atu itlTit f.xta die
Julii anno Chrilli Kcdi.'niptori3

1711.

And beneath is an afteftiopate and elegant epitaph op his Dulchcfr, who died two yeara
^fore his Grace.

• Cuthtie, fii, ^o.

June

PEKNAN r's SECOND TOUR IK SCOTLAND. lljr

June 7th. Vifit Tibbir caflle, about a mile below Drumlanrie, placed on a fmall hill
above the little ftream, the Tibber. Nothing remains but the foundations overgrown
with (hrubs : It is fuppofed to have been a Roman fort, but that in after times the Scots
profiting of the fituation, and what h;id been done before, built on the place a fmall
caftle ; which tradition fays, was furprized by a ftratagem in time of William Wallace *.

The beauties of Drumlanrig arenot confined to the highed partof the grounds ; the
walks, for a very confiderable way, by the fides of the Nith, abound with moll pidurefque
and various fccnery : below the bridge the fides are prettily wooded, but not remarkably
lofty ; above the views become wildly magnificent: the river runs through a deep and
rocky channel, bounded by vail wooded clitFs, that rife fuddenly from its margin ; and the
profpeft down from the fummit is of a "terrific depth, encreafed by the rolling of the
black waters beneath : two views aio particularly fine ; one of quick repeated, but ex-
tenfive, meanders aniidft broken Iharp-pointed rocks, which often divide the river into
feveral channels, interrupted by fliort and foaming rapids, coloured with a moory teint.
The other is of a long (Irait, narrowed by the fides, precipitous and wooded, approach-
ing each other equidiltant, horrible from the blacknefs and fury of the river, and the
fiery red and black colours of the rocks, that have all the appearance of having fuf.
taincd a change by the rage of another element.

Crofs ihe bridge again, and continue my journey northward for fix or feven miles, on
an excellent road, which I was informed was the fame for above twenty miles farther,
and macl^ at the fole expence of the prefent Duke of Queenibury : his Grace is in all
refpeds a warm friend to his country, and by praemia promotes the manufaftures of
woollen (luffs, and a very ftrong fort of woollen (lockings ; and by thefe methods will
preferve on his lands a ufeful and indudrious population, that will be enabled to eat their
own bread, and not opprefs their brethren^ or be forced into exile, as is the cafe in
many other parts of North Britain.

The ride wais, for the moft part, above the Nith ; that in many places appeared in
fingular forms : the mod ftriking was a place called called Hell's Cawdron, a fudden
turn, where the waters eddies in a large hole, of a vail depth and blacknefs, overhung,
and darkened by trees. On the oppofite fide is the appearance of a Britifh entrench-
ment ; and near Durifdcer is faid to be a fmall Roman fortrefs : the Roman road runs
by it, and is continued from thence by the WelUpath, through Crawford moor, to
Elven-foot, has been lately repaired, and is much preferable to the other through the
mountains, which would never have been thought of but for the mines in the lead-
hills.

The river alTumes ai milder courfe ; the banks bordered with fields, and thofe oppo-
fite, well wooded. On an eminence is the houfe of Eliock, environed with trees, once
one of the po(re(rionS of Lricluon, father to the Admirable ; and before, at fome dif-
tance, is the town of Sanquhar, with the ruins of the callle, the ancient feat of the Lords
Crichton. The parifli is remarkable for the manufa<^ure of woollen (lockings, and the
abundance of its coal.

Quit Nithfdale, and tifrn fuddenly to the right ; pafs through the glen of Lochbuni
between vail mountains, one fide wooded to a great height, the other naked, but finely
graffed, and the bottom walhed by the Menoch, a pretty (Ircam ; the glen grows very
narrow, the mountains encreafe in height, and tlie aicont long and laborious. Ride
by Wanlock-head in the parilh of Sanquhar, the property of the Duke of Queenf-
bury ; Ibmetimes rich in lead ore. Crols a iinall dike at ihc top of the mountain,

/■i.'iiSlj

* Cordon's Itiii. 15,

o o a

enter

323

Pr.NN ant's second TOtTR IN SCOTLANS.

enter Lanerkfhire, or Clydjfdale; and continue all night at the little village of Lead,
hills, in the parifli of Crawford : tho place confUts of numbers of mean houfes, inhabited
by about fifteen hundred fouls, fiipportcd by the mines ; for five hundred are employed
in the rich/ous terrains of this trad. Nothing can equal the barren and gloomy ap-
pearance of the country round : neither tree, nor flirub, nor verdure, nor pifturefque
rock, appear to amufe the eye ; tlie fpedator nmrt plunge into the bowels of thefe
mountains for entertainment ; or pleafe himfelf with the idea of the good that is done
by the well beftowed treafures drawn from thefc inexhauftible mines, that are ftillrich,
baffling the efforts of two centuries. The fpace that has yielded ore is little more thAti
a mile fquare, and is a flat or pafs among the mountains : the veins of lead run north
and fouth ; var)', as in other places, in their depth, and are from two to four feet
thick ; fome have been found filled with ore within two fathoms of the furface j others
fmk to the depth of ninety fathom.

The ore yields in general about feventy pounds of lead from a hundred and twelve
of ore, but affords very little filver ; the varieties are the common plated ore, vulgarly
called Potter's ; the fmall or fteel-grained ore, and the curious white ores, lamellated
and fibrous, fo much fearched after for the cabinets of the curious. The laft yields
from fifty-eight to fixty-eight pounds from the hundred, but the working of this fpecies
is much more pernicious to the health of the workmen than the common. The ores
are fmelted in heaths, blown by a great bellows and fluxed with lime. The lead is
fent to Leith in fmall carts, that carry about fcvcn hundred weight, and exported
free from duty.

The miners and fmelters are fubjeft here, as in other places, to the lead diftemper,
ormill -reek, as it is called here ; which brings on paifies, and fometimes madnefs,
terminating in death in about ten days. Yet about two years ago died, at this place,
a perfon of primaeval longevity : one John Taylor, miner, who worked at his bufinefs
till he was a hundred and twelve : he did not marry till he was fixty, and had nine
children ; he faw to the laft without fpedacles, had excellent teeth till within fix years
before his death, having left off tobacco, to which he attributed their prefervation j
at length, in 1770, yielded to fate, after having completed his hundred and thirty-
lecond year.

Native gold has been frequently found in this tra£t, in the gravel beneath the peat,
from which it was waflicd by rains, and collefted in the gullies by perfons who at diffe-
rent times have employed themfelves in fearch of this precious metal ; but of late years
thefe adventurers have fcarce been able to procure a livelihood. I find in a little book,
printed in 1710, called Mifcellnnca Scoticd •,that in old times much gold was coUeded
in different parts of Scotland. In the reign of James IV. the Scots did feparate the gold
from the fund by walhiiig. In the following, the Germans found gold there, which
afforded the king great lums ; three hundred men were employed for feveral fummers,
and about ico,oool. fterling procured. They did not difpofe of it in Scotland, but
carried it into Germany. The fame writer fays, that the laird of Marchelton got gold
in Pentland hills ; that fome was found in Langham waters, fourteen miles from Lead-
hill houfe, in Meggot waters, twelve miles, and Phinland, fixteen miles. He adds,
that pieces of gold, mixed with fpar and other fubftances, that weighed thirty ounces
were found ; but the largert piece I have heard of does not exceed an ounce and a
half, and is in »ho poffeffion of Lord Hopetoun, the owner of thefe mines.

Continue my journey through dreary glens or melancholy hills, yet not without
feeing numbers of fliecp. Near the fmall village of Crawford John, procured a guide

* lor « fiirtlicr account of golii fomi'l in Scotland, fjc p. 4»6, of the jd part of this Tour.

over

PSNN ant's SECOKO TOUR IM SCOTLANP,

«25

ever five miles of almoft pathlefs moors, and defcend into Douglafdale, watered by the
river that gives the name ; a valley diftinguifhed by the refidence of the femily of
Douglas, a race of turbulent heroes, celebrated throughout Europe for deeds of arms ;
the glory, yet the fcourge of their country ; the terror of their princes j the pride of
the northern annals of chivalry.

They derive their name from Sholto du glallc, or the black and grey warrior (as
their hiftory • relates) a hero in the reign of Solvathius, king of Scotland, who lived
in the eighth century j with more certainty, a fucceflbr of his, of the name of William,
went into Italy in queft of adventures, and from him defcend«d the family of the Scoti
of Placentia t> that flourifhed in the lad age, and may to this time continue there. But
the Douglaffes firft began to rife into power in thedays of the goodSir James, who died:
in 1330. During a century and a half their greatnefs knew no bounds, and their ar«
rogance was equally unlimited : that high fpirit which was wont to be exerted again ft
the enemies of their country, now degenerated into faction, fedition, and treafon ; they
emulated the royal authority ; they went abroad with a train of two thoufand armed
men ; created knights, had their counfellors, eftablifhed ranks, and condituted a t par>
Hament : it is certain that they might almoft have formed a houfe of peers out of their
own family ; for, at the fame time there were not fiewer than fix Earls of the name of
Douglas I). They gave fhelter to the moft barbarous banditti,^ and proteded them in
the greateft crimes : for, as honeft Lindefay exprefles, " Oppreflion, ravilhing of
women, facrilege, and all other kinds of mifchief, were but a dalliance : fo it was
thought leifome to a depender on a Douglas to flay or murder, for fo fearful was their
name, and terrible to every innocent man, that when a mifchievous limmer was ap-
prehended, if he alledged that he murdered and flew at a Douglas's command, no man
durft prefent him to juftice §."

Douglas caftle, the refidence of thefe Reguli, feems to have been proftrated almoft
as frequently as its mafters : the ruin that is feen there at prefent is the remains of the
laft old caftle, for many have been built on the fame Ate. The prefent is an imper£e£t.
pile, begun by the late Duke : in the front are three round towers ; beneath the bafe
of one lies the noble founder, and the tears of the country painted above. He was
interred there by his own directions, through the vain fear of mingling his afhes with
thofe of an injured dead.

The windows are Gothic : the apartments are fitting up with great elegance, which
fliew that the ftorms of ambition have been laid, ai I that a long calm of eafe and con>
tent is intended to fucceed.

The infcription on the foundation«ftone of the pr Tent caftle deferves prefervation,
as it gives a little of the hiftory :

Hoc latuft

Hujai munitiifimi PrKdii

Familix de Douglas

Ter folo aequati

£t feme] atque iterum inftaurati

Imperantibus

Edwardo primn Anglie

li!c apud Scotos Roberto

primuin fie didio

Tandem furgere cxpit

Novia munitionibus firmatum

• Hume*8 Hi'ft. of the Howfes of Douglas, 3,
I Sucbaaan, Rcrum Scot. lib. xi. fe^. 9.

t Idemj p. 5.
U Camden, Br. II. uii.

$ F«ge 35.

Juflu

" aj** pennant's second tour in Scotland.

■ '' Juffii et funiptibua

. - • Jereniflimi ft potentiflimi Arcliibalda

Dncis Je Douot.AS, &c. &c.

Piincipij faniilia: ejus nominii

In i:cota antiquiffiiiiK

£t maximc notabilis

Anno Chkisti

MDCCLVII.

Near the cadle are feveral very anticnt a(h-trees, whofc branches groaned under the
weight of executions when the family knew no law but its will.

In the church were depofited the remains of feveral of this great name. Firft ap-
pears the effigies of good Sir James, the mod diftinguiftied of the houfe, the favourite
of Robert Bruce, and the knight appointed, as mod worthy to carry his maker's heart
to be interred beneath the high altar in the temple of Jerufaleni. He fet our, attended
with a train of two hundred kn'ghts and gentlemen, having the gold box, containing
the royal heart fufpended from his neck. PIo firfl put into the port of Sluys, on tlie
coaft of Flanders, where he ftaid for twelve days, living on board in regal pomp (for
he did not deign to land) and all his vefTels were of gold *. Here he was informed,
that Alphonfo King of Spiin was engaged in war with the Saracen King of Grenada :
not to lofc this blefled opportunity of fighting againft the enemies of the crofs, he and
his knights failed inflantly for Valentia, was moll honourably received by the Spanifli
monarch, luckily found him on the point of giving battle ; engaged with great valour,
was furrounded by the infidels, llain in the fight, and the heart of Robert Bruce, which
was happily refcued, inflead of vifiting the Holy Land, was carried to the convent of
Melros, and the body of Sir James to this church ; where his figure lies crofs-legged,
his holinefs having decreed that fervices againll the infidels in Spain (hould have equal
merit with thofe performed in Paleftine.

Near Hiin, beneath a magnificent tomb, lies Archibald firft Earl of Douglas, and
fecond Duke of Tcrouan, in France ; his father, (lain at the battle of Verneuil, being
honoured by the French king with that title. He lies in liis ducal robes and coronet.
This Earl lived quite independent of his prince, James I. and through refentment to
the minifter, permitted the neighbouring thieves of Annandale to lay wafte the country,
when his power, perhaps equal to the regal, might have fupprefled their barbarity. He
dfed in 1431.

The Douglafles and Percies were rivals in deeds of arms ; and fortune, as ufual,
fmilcd or frowned aliernately on each of thcfe potent families.

Jamesi the Fat, feventh Farl of Douglas, next appears in effigy on another tomb : a
peaceable chieftain, who feems to have been in too good cafe to give any difturbance
to the commonwealth. Ho died in 1443, and his lady Beatrix de Sinclair, lies by
him Their offsprin^^ is alfo enumerated in the infcription.

Ride for fome time in Douglafdale, a traft deficient in wood, but of great fertility ;
the foil fine, and of an uncommon depth, yielding fine b;\rlcy and oats, moft flovenlv
ktpt, and full of weeds j the country full of gei^tle rilings. Arrive in a flat extent
of ground, defccnd to the river Clyde, crofs a bridge of three arches, afcend a fteep
road, and reach

Lanerk ; a town that gives name to the county. Here the gallant Wallace made
his firft effort to redeem his country from the tyranny of the Englifh ; taking the place
and flaying the governor, a man of rank f. The caillc flood on a mount on the fbuth

• FroKTart, !ib. i. c. it.

t D'Tchanaii, lib viii, c. i8.

fidt

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

231

fide of the town ; and not far to the eaft, is a ruined church, perhaps belonging to the
convent of Francifcans, founded by R.obert liruce, in 1314..

Not very far froniLanerk are the celebrited falls of the Clyde, the moft diftant
are about a half hour's ride, at a place cahed Cory-Lin; and are feen to moft ad-
vantage from a ruinous pavilion in a ;enr'.enian's garden, placed in a hifty fituation.
The cataraft is full in view, feen over bj tops of trees and bullies, precipitating itfelf
for an amazing way, from rock to rock, with fliort interruptions, forniiiig a rude flope
of furious foam. The fides are bounded by vaft rocks, clothed on their tops with
trees ; on the fummit and very verge of one is a ruined tower, and in front a wood,
overtopt by a verdant i)ill.

A i^ath condu6ls the traveller down to the beginning of the fall, into which projefls
a high rock, in floods infulated by the waters, and from the top is a tremendous view
of the furious ftream. In the clifts of this favage rctr6at the brave Wallace is fald
to have concealed himfelf, meditating' revenge for his injured country.

{)n regaining the top the walk is formed near the verge of the rocks, which on
both fides are perfedly mural and equidiftant, except where they overhang ; the river
is pent up between then. U a diftance far beneath ; not running, but rather Aiding
along a ftony bottom flopuig the whole way. The fummits of the rock are wooded;
the fides fmooth and naked , the ftrata narrow and regular, forming a ftupendous
natural mafonry. i^fter a walk of above half a mile on the edge of this great chafm,
on a fudden appears the great and bold fall of Boniton, In a foaming (heet, far-pro-
jefting into a hollow, in which the water Ihews a violent agitation, and a far-
extending mill arifes from the lurface. Above that is a fecond great fall ; two leffer
fucceed ; beyond thjm the river winds, grows more tranquil, and is feen for a
confiderable way,, bounded on one fide by wooded banks, on the other' by rich and
fwelling fields.

Return the fame way to Lanerk : much barley, oats, peas, and potatoes are raifed
about the town, and fome wheat ; the manure moft in ufe is a white marl, full of
fhells, found about four feet below the peat, in a ftratum five feet and a half thick ;
it takes effeft after the firft year, and produces vaft crops. Numbers of horfes are
bred here, which at two years old are fent to the marflies of Ayrlhire, where they are
kept till they are fit for ufe.

June 9. Again pafs over the bridge of Lanerk, in order to vifit the great fall of
Stone-bk-rs, about a mile from the town : this has more of the horrible in it than either
of the other two, and is feen with more difficulty ; it confifts of two precipitous cata-
racts falling one above the other into a vaft chaim, bounded by lofty rocks, forming
an amazing theatre to the view of thofe who take the pains to defcend to the bottom.
Between this and Cory-Lin is another fall called Dundofflin ; but being fatiated for
this time with the noife of waters, we declined the fight of it.

Return over the bridge, and walk to Cartland-crags ; a zig-zag den of great ex-
tent, bounded by rocks of a very uncommon height, and almoft entirely clothed with
trees. It is a place of laborious accefs from above, fo difficult is it amidft the (hade of
trees to find a way free from precipice, i he bottom is watered by the river Moufe ;
and the udes, at every fliort turn, finely varied with the different appearance of rock,
wood, and precipice. Emerge into the open fpace ; remount our horfes, and ride for
fome miles along a rich vale, with the Clyde paffing along the bottom ; all parts are
rich in corn, mo;idow.s, orchards and groves. Crofs the Nathan. At Nathan foot,
gnin the heights, which are far lefs fertile ; and, after going over the river Avon, reach
the town of Hamilton.

2 The

^-'■n

.JicJ'i

*J*

PBNNANT's SECOKD tour in SCOTLANDf

The original name of this place, or the lands about it, was Cadzow, or Cadyow, a
barony granted to an anccdor of the noble owner on the following occafion : In the
time of Edward II. lived Sir Gilbert de Hamilton, or Hampton *, an Englifliman of
rank ; who, happening at court to fpcak in praife of Robert Bruce, received on the oc«
cafion an infult from John de Spenfer, chamberlain to the King, whom he fought and
i!ew ; dreading the refentment of that potent family t, he fled to the Scottifli monarch,
who received him with open arms, and eftabliihed him at the place the family now pof.
fefles ; whofe name in after-times was changed from that of Cadzow to liamilton ; and
in 1445 the lands were erefted into a lordlhip, and the then owner Sir James, fat in
parliament as Lord Hamilton.

The fame nobleman founded the collegiate church at Hamilton in 1451, for a pro-
voft and feveral prebendaries. Tlie endowment was ratified at Rome by the pope's
bull, which he went in perfon to procure |.

The old caille of Hamilton being poirelTed by certain of the name who had been
guilty of the deaths of the Earls of Lenox and Murray, was on the 19th of May 1579
furreiidered ; and, by the order of the king and council, entirely dempliflied ||.

Hamilton houfe, or palace, is at the end of the town ; a large difagfeeable pile, with
two deep wings at right angles with the centre ; the gallery is of great extent, fur-
nished (as well as fome other rooms) with mod excellent paintings.

That of Daniel in the lions' den, by Rubens, is a great performance : the fear and
devotion of the prophet is finely exprefled by the uplifted face and eyes, his clafped
hands, liis fwelling mufcles, and the violent extenfion of one foot : a lion looks fiercely
at him, with open mouth, and feeras only reftrained by the Almighty Power from mak-
ing him fall a vidim to his hunger : and the deliverance of Daniel is more fully marked
by the number of human bones fcattered over the floor, as if to fhew the inllant fate of
others, in wiiofe favour the Deity did not interfere.

The marriage feaft, by Paul Veronefe, is a fine piece ; and the obflinacy and refill-
ance of the intruder, who came without the wedding garment, is ftrongly expreffed.

The treaty of peace between England and Spain, in the reign of James I., by Juan de
Pantoxa, is a good hiftorical pifture. There are fix envoys on the part of the Spa-
niards, and five on that of the Englifli, with the names infcribed over each : the En-
plifli are the Earls of Dorfet, Nottingham, Devonfhire, Northampton, and Robert
Cecil.

Earls of Lauderdale and Lanerk fettling the covenant ; both in black, with faces full
of puritanical foleninity.

James, Marquis of Hamilton, and Earl of Cambridge, in black, by Vanfomer. This
nobleman was high in favour with James VI., knight of the garter, lord high fteward
of the hnufliold, and lord high commiffioner of the parliament ; and fo much in the
eftecm and aftVdion of his matter as to excite the jealoufy of Buckingham. He died
in 1625, at the early age of thirty-three. Such fymptoms ^ attended his death, that
the public attributed it to poifon, and afcribed the infamy to the duke.

His fon James, Duke of Hamilton, with a blue ribband and white rod. A principal
leader of the prelbyterian party in the reign of Charles I., dark, uncommunicative, cun-
ning. He managed the truft repofed in him in fuch a manner as to make his politics
fufpedcd by each fadion ; .ind notwithftanding he was brought up in the fchooi of
Guftavus Adolphus in a military capacity, his conduft was ftill more contemptible : he

• In Leiceflerftiire, viJe Burton's Hift. of that couoty, p. ia6.
X Crawford'^ Teciage, IJ9. || Moylcs, 34.

f Buchaaao, viii. c.
f Wilfou, a85.

49.

ruintd

rCNNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. a33

ruined the anny he faintly led into England, rather to make his royal marter fubfervient
to the dclign of the Scots, tlian to do his majelly any real fervicc. Was fliamefully
taken, and ended his days upon a fcaflbld.

Next to his is the portrait of his brother, and fuccelTor to the title, William Earl of
Lancrk, who behaved at the battle of Worcefter with genuine heroifni, was mortally
wounded, and died with evc' .ntimcnt of calninefs and piety ; regretting the enthu-
ilafm of his younger days, and his late appearance in the royal caufe.

James Duke of Hamilton, who fell in the duel with Lord Mohun. The firft a leader
of the tory party in the reign of Queen Anne ; the lafl a ftrong whig : each combatant
fell ; whether the Duke died by the hands of an alTciffin fccbnd, or whether he fell by
tliofeof his antagonift, the violence of party leaves no room to determine.

Next appears a full length, the fined portrait in this kingdom : a nobleman in a red
Xilk jacket and trowfers ; his hair fhort and grey ; a gun in his hand, attended by an
Indian boy, and with Indian fcenery around : the figure feems perfectly to ftart from
the canvas, and the adion of his countenance, looking up, has matchlefs fpirit. It is
called the portrait of \Villiam Earl of Denbigh, mlfcalled governor of Barbadoes. His
daughter married the firft Duke of Hamilton, which ftrengthens the opinion of its
being that of her father. The painter feems to have been Rubens ; but from what
circumftance of his lordlhip's life he placed him in an Indian foreft, is not known.
, The old Duke of Chatelherault, in black, with the order, I think, of St. Michael,
pendent from his neck, which he accepted with the title, and a penfion, from Francis I.
of France, at the time he was Earl of Arran, and regent of Scotland. He was declared
next in fucceflion to the crown, in cafe of failure of heirs in Mary Stuart ; a rank that
his feeble and unfteady conduft would have difabled him from filling with dignity.

A head of Catherine Parr, on wood, by Holbein.

Another, laid to have been that of Anne Bullcn, very handfome, drelTed in a rulT
and kerchief, edged with ermine, and in a purple gown } over her face a veil, fo tran-
Iparent as not to conceal

The bloom of yoiing dcfire and purple light of love.

Maria Dei Gratia Scotorum Reginr, 1586, set. 43. A half-length : a ftifF figure,
in a great rufl", auburn locks, oval but pretty full face, of much larger and plainer
features than that at calllc Braan ; a natural alteration, from the increafe of her cruel
ufage, and of her ill health ; yet dill prefervcs a likenefs to that portrait. I was told
here that flie fent this piclurc, together with a ring, a little before her execution, to the
reprefentative of the Hamilton family, as an acknowledgment of gratitude for their fuf-
ferings in her caufe.

Earl Morton, regent of Scotland ; a nobleman of vaft but abufed abilities ; rapacious,
licentious, unprincipled j reftrained by no confideration from gaining his point ; intre-
pid till the lail hour of his being, when he fell on the fcaffold with thofe penitential
horrors * that the enormous wickcdnefs of his pafl life did naturally infpire.

The rough reformer, John Knox, a fevere reprover of the fornier. The Earl, at
the funeral of Knox, in a few words delivered this honourable tcftimony of his ipirit ;
" There lies he who never feared the face of man."

Alexander Henderfon, a vain, infolcnt, and bufy minifter during the troubles of
Charles I., who was deputed by his brethren to pcrfuade his Majefty to extirpate epif-
copacy out of Scotland : but the king, an equal bigot, and better cafuift, filenced his

:!:!H.:-^siri|

VOL. III.

* Spotfwood, 3 1 4. Lives of the DouglalTes, 356,
H H

arguments j

Mit

=34

pr.NN ant's second tulr in Scotland.

nrgumenfs; and Hendcrfon, chagrined with his ill rucccfs, retired, and died of a broken
hi-art.

A head of Ilobbcs (as a contrail to tho two former), with (hort thin grey hair.

Lord Iklhaven, author of the famous (peech agaiiid tiie union.

Philip II. a fall len;;th, with a (Irange f^^urc oi Fame bowing at his feet, with a label,
and this motto : " Pro mcrcnte adfto."

Two halt-length?, in black, one with a fiddle in his hand, the other in a grotefque
attitude, both with the fame countenances, good, but fwarthy ; midakcnly called
David ^izzio's, but I could not learn that tticre was any portrait of that unfortunate
man.

Irrcfillible beauty brings up the rear, in form of Mifs Mar)- Scott, a full length, in
white fattin, a moft elegant figure ; and thus concludes the lilt with what is more pow-
erful than all that has preceded ; than the arms of the warrior, the art of the politician,
the admonitions of the churchman, or the wifdom of the philofopher.

About a mile from the houfe, on an eminence, above a deep wooded glen, with the
Avon at the bottom, is Chatelherault, fo called from the eftate the family once poflcffed
in France ; is an elegant banqucting-houfe, with a dog-kennel, gardens, &c. and com-
mands a fine view. The park is now much inclofed ; but I am told there are ftill in it
a few of the wild cattle of the fame kind with thole I faw at Drumianrig.

Continue my journey : crofs the Clyde at Bothwell bridge, noted for the defeat of a
fmall army ofenthufiaftsin i67(), near the place, by the Duke of Monmouth, who dif-
tinguiflicd himfelf that day moie by his humanity than his conduft j but it is probable
he difliked a fervicc againll men to whofe religious principles he had no averiion : he
might likewife aim at future popularity in the country.

Bothwell church was collegiate, founded by Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas, in
J 398, for a provoll and eight prebendaries. The oulfide is faid to be incruftcd with a
thin coat of ftone, but 1 confofs it efcaped my notice. In it are interred the founder
and his lady, daughter of Andrew Murray, fon to King David Bruce, with whom he got
the lordlhip of Bothw'jll.

The calllc, now in ruins, is beautifully featt d on the banks of the Clyde : tradition
and hidory are fdent about the founder. It is faid to have been a principal refidence
of the DouglaflTes ; and while F.dward I. was in polVeflion of Scotland, was the chief
ilation of his governor ; and after the battle of Bannockburn, was the prifon of fonie of
thel'.nglilh nobility taken in that fatal field. Major * fays, that in 1337 it was taken
by the parti;^ans of David Bruce, and levclUd to the ground. That leems a favourite
phrale uf the hiilorian ; for to me it appears to be in the fame flato with that of Cacr-
Javeroc, and v.asonly difmantled; for in both, fome of the remaining towers have all
the marks of the early llyle of building.

Thcprcfcnt n iidencc of the family, called Bothwell houfe, is modern, built between
ninety ami a hundred years ago by the young I'arl ot Forfar, who was killed at the
battle of Duribhiin. He was paternal uncle to the late I^uke of Douglas, who fuc-
cccded to the illate. The centre is but fmall, being chiefly taken up with llair-cafe
and lobby, 'ihc Duke of Douglas added the wings, in which are the principal apart-
nuiits. It dands \ery near the ancient caflle.

On the fouth lideof the Clyde, oppofite to the caflle, are the remains of Blantyrc, a
priory of canons regular, founded before the year 1296 j mention being made in that
Year of Frcrc William I'riour de Bluntyr f.

+ Keuli, 139.

The

PENKANT 8 SECOND TOTJR. IN SCOTLAND.

«3S

The country from Bothwcll bridge is open, very fertile, compofed of gentle rifings,
divcrfified with large plantations. Reach

Glafgow, the belt built of any fecond-rate city I ever faw ; the houfcs of (lone, and
in general well built, and many in a good tafte, plain and unaflcftcd. The principal
llrect runs ead and wed, is near a mile and a half long, but unfortunately not ftraight j
yet the view from the crofs, wiicre the two other great Iheets fall into this, has an air of
vail magnificence. The tolbooth is large and handlome, with this apt motto on the front :

Hxc doniiis odit, aniat, ptinit, cotilervat, honorat,
nL'c]uitiani, paccm, crimina, jura, proboi.

Next to that is the exchange : within is a fpacious room, with full-length portraits of
all our monarchsfince James I. ; and an excellent one, by Ramfay, of Archibald Duke
of Argyle in his robes as lord of fefllons. However expert he might have been in the
laws of his land, the following form of relpitr to a wrenched convid does not fpeak
much in favour of his regard to decency.

Edinr Fcbry 28thj 1728.

" I Archibald Earl of Iflay, do hereby prorogate and continue the life of John Rud-
dell, writer in Edin', to the term of Whitfunday next, and no longer, by G — d.

"ISLAY, I.P.D."

Before the exchange is a large equeflrian ftatue of King William. This is the fmeft
and broadeft part of tne ftreet : many of the houfes are built over arcades, but too nar-
row to be walked in with any conveniency. Numbers of other neat ftreets crofs this at
right angles.

The market-places are great ornaments to the city, the fronts being done in v^ry fine
taflc, and the gates adorned with columns of one or other of the orders. Some of
thefe v.'arkets are for meal, greens, fi(h or flelh : there are two for the laft which
have conduits of water out of feveral of the pillars, fo that they are conflantly kept
fweet and neat. Before thefe buildings were conft rudled, mofl; of thofe articles were
fold in the public (Ircots; and even after the market-places were buiU, the magillrates
with great difficulty compelled the people to take advantage of fuch cleanly innovations.

Near the meal-market is the public granary, to be filled on any apprehenfion of
fcarcity.

The guard-houfe is in the great flreet, where the inhabitants mount guard, and regu-
lailydo duty. An excellent police is obferved here j and proper officers attend the
markets to prevent abufes.

The police of Glafgow confifls of three bodies ; the magiftrates with the town-
council, the merchants houfc, and the trades houfe. I'he lord provoll, three bailies,
a dean of guild, a deacon convener, a treafurer, and twenty-five counci'-men, compofe
the firft. It mud be obferved that the dean of guild is chofen annually, and can con-
tinue in office but two years. The fecond confids of thirty-fix merchants, annually
elefted, with the provolt and three bailies, by virtue of their office, which make the
whole body forty. Ihe dean of guild is head of this houfe, who, in cc ii^undion with
his council, four merchants, and four tradefmen (of which the precedi' ;; dean is to be
one), holds a court every Thurfday, where the parties only are admitted to plead, all
lawyers being exclmli'd. He and his council have power to judge and decree in all
adions refpetling trade between merchant and merchant ; and thole who refule to fub-
mit to their decifioiis are liable to a fine of five pounds. The fame officer and his
council, with the mailer of work, can determine all difputes about boundaries, and no
proceedings in building fhall be (topped except by him ; but the plaintiff muli lodge a

H H 3 fuilicicnt

■\ M

' 'it

1 f.>

"f 1

aj(?

rCKNANT's fF.COND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

fiifiicii"nt Cum in his hands to f.itisfy the dcfVndant, in cafe the firft fliould lay a ground-
li'fs com|TJaint : and, to prevent dilay, the dean and his afliftants are to meet on the
fpot within twenty-four hours; and to prevent frivolous dilpiites, (hould the plaintiff
be found not to have been aggrieve'd, he is fined in twenty fhillings, and tho damage
fiiftaincd by the delay : but atjiiin, flunild he iinaj^inc liinifelf wronged by the dptilion,
he has power (after lodging forty fliillings in the hands of the dean) of appealing to the
preat council of the city ; and in cafe they alfo decide againft hitn, the futn is forfeited
and applied as the dean (hall think fit. 'I'lie fame niagillrate is alfo to fee that no en-
croachments are made on the public flrects: lie can order any old houfes to be pulled
down that appear dangerous; and, 1 think, has alfo power in fome j)laccs of diipofing
of to the bell bidder, the ground of any houfes which the owner fuffers to lie in ruins
for three years, without attempting to rebuild. Befides thcfe affairs, he fuperintends
the weii'its and meafurcs; punifhcs and hnes tranfgrelfors ; fines all unqualified per-
Ions who ufurp the privileges of freemen ; admits burgell'cs : the fines to aliens is i ool.
.Scotch : and finally, he and his council may levy a tax on the guild-brethren (not ex-
ceeding the above-mentioned fum at a time) for the maintenance of the wives and chil-
dren of decayed brethren ; the money to be dillributed at the difcrotion of tho dean^
his council, and the deacon convener.

The third body is the trades houfe: this confifls of fifty-fix, of which the deacon
convener is the head : there are fourteen incorporated trades, each of which has a
deacon, who has a right to nominate a certain number of his trade, {o as to form the
houfe : thcfe manage a large flock, maintain a great number of poor, and determine
difputcs between the trades. In this place may be mentioned, that the merchants hof-
pital, founded by the merchants of Glafgow in 1601, has a large capital to fupport the
poor : that the town's hofpital contains four hundred indigent, and is fupportcd by the
magiflrates and town-council, th.e mcrchaus houfe, the trades houfe, and the kirk
felhons. I lutcliinfon's hofpital, founded in 1642 by two brothers of that name, lias a
fund of twelve ihoufand pounds } the town-council a revenue of fix thoufand pounds
per annum.

The old bridge over the Clyde confifls of eight arches, and was built by ■\Villiani Rea,
bifhc-p of this lee, about four hundred years ago. A tuw one has been lately added of
feven arches, \\i:h circular holes between each to carry otl the (uperlluous waters in the
groat floods. This bridge deviates from the original plan, which was very elegant, and
tree from certain defeds that difgrace the preferit.

The city of Glafgow, till very lately, was pcrftclly tantali/.ed witfi its river: the water
was fliallow, the channel much too wide for the ufual quantity of water that flowed
down, and the navigation interrupted by twelve remarkable fhoals. The fecoiid incon-
veniency continually increaled by the wearing away of tlie banks, caufed by the preva-
lency of the fouth-wcfl winds that blow here, and oftiri with much violence, during
more than half the year : thus what is got in breadth, i > loll in depth ; r iid flioals are
formed by the lofs of water in the more contracted bed. Spring-tides do not flow
above three feet, or neap-tides above one, at Broom) -law -quay, clofc to the town; fo
that in dry feafons lighters are detained there for feveral weeks, or are prevented from
arriving there, to the great detriment of the city.

To remedy this evil, the city called in feveral engineers : at Kngth the plan propofed
by my old friend, Mr. John Golburne, of Chefter, that honcft and able engineer, was
accepted, and he entered into contract with the magillrates of Glafgow to deepen the
channel to feven feet at the quay, even at neap tidvs. lie has made confiderable pro-
gref^in the work, and has given the iUpuUted depth to within lour miles of the place.

For

'■'1

pennant's SPCOND tour in SCOTLAND. igf

For a prol'cnt relief he has ilecpened tlie intermediate flioals, and particiilnrly he has
f;ivtn at leafl i ar fitt of water iiUMiediatcly below the quay, in a flioal called the Murit,
uhich was above a quarter of a mile long, and had over it only eighteen inclics of
water. Before this improvement Iij;hter8 of only thirty tons burden could reach the
quay ; at prefent vellols'of fevcnty come there with eafe.

Near the bridge is the large ahns-Iioufe, a vail nailery, a (lone ware manufai^ory,
and a great porter brewery, which fuppliija ibine part ot Ireland * : befides thefe arc
niaiiufaiSturcs of linens, cambritks, lawns, tullians, tapes, and ftripcd linens ; fugar-
houfes and glafs-houl'es, great roperies ; vafl manufactures of ihoes, boots, and faddles,
and all forts of horle furniture ; alfo vad tanneries carried on under a company who
have 6o,oool. capital, chiefly for the ufe of the colonifls, whofe bark is found unfit for
tanning. 'I'ho magazine ot faddles, and other works refpedling that bufmcfs, is an
amazing fight : all thefe are dcftined for America, no port equalling this for the con-
veniency of fituation, ami fpeedily fupplying that market. Within fight, on the Ren-
frew fide, are collieries, and much coal is exported inrr Ireland, and into America.

Thi' great import of this city is tobacco. The following llatc of that trade for the
throe lait years exhibits its vafl extent and importance :

1769.

1770.

From Virginia,

25457 hogiheads.

29815

Maryland,

9641

8242

Carolina,

460

9>3

Total, 35558

38970

So that it appears the increafe of importation from Virginia, in 1770, was 435 hogf-
heads, and from Carolina, 453, and that it decreafed in Maryland, 1359. But what is
remarkable, that in the fame year not any part of this vafl Hock remained unfold ; the
whole being difpofed of in thu following proportions :

lioglh.

To Irelantl, ^^q

Bremen,

1303

F' ; ce, 15706
Holland, 10637

Spain, &c.
Norway,

885
557

I) ukirk, 1907

Denmark,

200

Hamburg, 2416

America,

Total exported ■

37938

jl- 'f '.

which, with 1032 fold inland, balances the account.

In the lafl year 1771, the commerce fUU improved, for from

Virginia, 35493

Maryland, 12530

Carolina, 993

Total,

49016

• Dublin is extrtmely capable of fupplyinp; Ireliind with this liquor, but, as I am credibly informed, is
attnoft prohibited ihe lUtcmpt by a harii anil unpolitlu.il tax.

1 The

'?!

a^8 pennant's second tour in Scotland.

The exports alfo increafcd, but not in the fame proportion with thofe of lad year :

Ireland took 3509 hogfh.

France,
Holland,
Dunkirk,
Hamburg,

16098
14546

2786

Bremen,
Norway,
Denmark,
Spain, &c.
Barbadoes,

Total,
Sold inland,

80 that this year it appears that there is unfold,
fo balance the ercat fum of.

1176
665

390
297

44799
1 142

4594 »
3°75

49016

"But this encouraging inference may be drawn : that, notwithftanding all our fquab*
bles with the colonies, thofe of the firft importance improve in fheir commerce with
their mother country : receive alfo an equal return in the manufactures of Great-
Britain, which, they wifely difpenfe to thole whom unavailing affociations of prohibition
bind from an open traffick with us.

'I'he origin of foreign trade in this great city is extremely worthy of attention. A
merchant, of the name of Walter Gibfon, by an adventure firft laid the foundation of its
wealth : about the year 1668 he cured and exported in a Dutch voflcl, 300 lafts of her-
rings, each containing fix barrels, which he fcnt to St. Mart-n's, in France, where he
got a barrel of" brandy and a crown for each : the (hip returning, laden with brandy and
iiilt, the cargo was fold for a great fum : he then launched farther into bufmefs,
bought the vclfel, and two large fliips befides, with which he traded to different parts
of Europe, and to Virginia : he alfo firft imported iron to Glafgow, for before that time
it was received from Sterling and Burrowftonefs, in exchange for dyed ftuffs : and even
the wine ufcd in this city was brought from Edinburgh. Yet I find no ftatue, no
rrattful iiifcription, to preferve the memory of Walter Gibfon!

Glafgow, till long alter the reformation, was confined to the ridge that extends from
the high-church, or cathedral, and the houfos trefpafl'ed but little on the ground on each
fide. This place (\%hofe inhabitants at this time are computed to be forty thoufand) was
lo incotifiderable, in 1 357, as not to be admitted in the number of the cautionary towns
affigncd to Kiiward III. for the payment of the ranfome of David II •. But the roviiuie
of the archbidinp was, at the reformation, little lefsthan a thoufand pounds ftcrling per
annum, bcfidis fivcral emoluments in corn of dilferent kinds. Religion was, before
that period, the commerce of our chief cities ; in the fame manner as commerce is their
relii^ion in the prtfent age.

Some writers attribute the foundation of this fee to St. Kentigern, in 560, and make
him the firft bilhop : others will give him no other rank than that of a fimple faint, it
is with more certainty known, that the cathedral was founded or refounded, in 1 136,
by John, governor to David I., and who was the firft certain bifliop of the place ; for it
WPS not crcded into an archbiftioprick till 1500, wlien Robert Blacader had firft the
title.

• Anderfon't DiA. Coirncrcf, i.

This

- J

pennant's SKCONO tour in SCCTtAND.

23a.

This fine church was devoted to deflru6lion by the wretched miniftcrs of 1 578, who
aflTembletl, by beat of drum, a multltudo to tfi'eft the demolition : but the trades of the
city taking arms, declared that they would bury under the ruins the ftrll pcrfon who
attempted the facrilege ; and to this fonfiblc zeal are wo indebted for fo great an orna-
ment to the place. It is at prefent divided into three places for divine fervice; two
above, one beneath, and deep underground, where the congrcgp '.'"on may truly fay,
clamavi ex profundis. The roof of this is fine, of ftone, and fuppcjrtcd by pillars, but
much hurt by the crowding of the pews.

In the church yard is an epitaph on a jolly phyfician, whofe praftice fhould be re-
commended to all fuch harbingers of death, who by their terrific faces fcare the poor,
patient prematurely into the region? f eternity :

Stay, panVnger, and view tin's rtone.
For under it lies fuch a c^nc
Who cured many while he lived ;
So gratious he no man giitved :
Yea when iiis phyfick's force oft' fnilej,
Hii pltaf.int purpofe then prevailed ;
For of his Ood he got the (;race
To live in mirth, and die in peace ;
Heaven has his foule, his corps this (lone;
Sigh, palfenger, and then he gone.
Dohor Peter Low, 1612.

Befides this church are the College Church, Ramfliorn, Trone, St. Andrew's and
Wint. The F.iij^lilh chupel, college chapel, a highland church, three feceding nieet-
ing-houfes, a Moravian, an independent, a methodill, an anabapiid, a barony church,
and on« in the luburbs oi the Gorbels.

But the mod beautifid is that of St. Andrew's, or the New Church, whofe front
graced with an elegant portico, docs the city great credit, if it had nut been disfigured
by a flendor fquare tower, with a pepper-box top ; and in general the (lecples in Gla(-
gow are in a remarkably bad tafte, being in faiEt no favourite part of archltedure with
the church of Scotland. The infide of that jult mentioned is iinidied not only with
neatnefs but with elegance ; is fupported by pillars, and very prettily ftuccood. It is
one of the very few exceptions to the flovenly and indecent manner in which the houfcs
of God, in Scotland, arc kept : reformation, in matters of relii;i,Mi, jjldoin obfervcs
mediocrity; here it was at firlt outrageous, for a place commonly no:iL was deemed to
iavourof pop ry ; but to avoid the imputation of that extreme, l hoy ran into another;,
for in many parts of North-Britain our Lord feems (lill to be woriLipped in a liable, and
(;ften in a very wretched one ; many of the churches are thatched w r.h heaili, rnid in
fome places are in I'l^h bad repair .s to be half open at top ; fo thai the people appear
to worfliip as the Druids did of old, in open temples. It is but coiiur.i'';i jultice to lay,
that this is no fault of the clerj?;y, or of the people, but entirely of the landed iiuerell ;
who having at the reformation, Ihared in the plunder of the church, were burthened
with the building and repairing of the houfes of worfliip. It is too frequently the cafe,
that the gentlemen cannot be induced to undertake the moil common repairs, without
being threatened with a procefs before the lords of fellions, or perhaps having the pvo-
cefs adually made, which is attended with odium, trouble and e.xpence to the poor in-
cumbents.

Near the cathedral is the ruin of the cartle, or the bifliop's palace ; the great tower
was built by John Cameron, prelate in 1426. Buchanan* relates an abfurd tale, that

• Lib. sL c. :!5'

12 this

;?>

% 1 J

;rf!>'^i'V-i:

'.'

»40 pennant's SECONB tour in SCOTLAND.

this bifhop was fuinmoncd to the great tribunal by a loud preternatural voice ; that he
aflembled his fervants, when to their great terror the call was repeated ; and the bifliop
died in great agonies. His offence is concealed from us, for he appoai-s to have been a
good and an able man.

Archbifliop Bethune furrounded the palace with a fine wall, and made a baflion over
one corner, and a tower over another. This ca(lle was befieged in 1544, by the regent
Arran, in the civil difputcs at that time ; who took it, and hanged eighteen of the
ganifon, placed there by Lenox, a favourer of the reformation.

In Glafgov/ were two religious houfes and an hofpital. One of Dominicans, founded
by the bifhop and chapter in 1279, and another of Obfervantincs in 1476, by John
Laing, bifliop of Glafgow, and Thomas Forfyth, reftor of the collogc.

The univerfity was founded in 1450, James II., Pope Nicholas V. gave the Bull, but
bifliop Turn' all fupplied the money. It confills of one college, a large building with a
handlbme fn t to the ftreet, refembling fome of the old colleges in C)xford. Charles
I. fubfcribed 200I. towards this work, but was prevented fi'om paying it by the enfuing
troubles ; but Cromwell afterwards fulfilled the defign of the royal donor. Here are
about four hundred ftudents who lodge in the town, but the piofefl'ors have good
houfes in the college, where young gentlemen may be boarded, and placed more im-
mediately under the profeffor's eye, than thole that Hve in private houfes. An inconve-
niency that calls loudly for reformation.

The library is a very handfome room, with a gallery, fupported by pillars ; and is well
fumiflied with books. That beneficent nobleman, the firit Dukeof Chandos, when he
vifited the college, gave 500I. towards building this apartment.

In poffeffion of the college is a very fingular verfion of the bible, by the Rev.
Zachary Boyd, a worthy, learned and pious divine of this city, who lived about a cen-
tury and a half ago, and dying, bequeathed to this fcmiiiary of knowledge his fortune, and
all his manufcripts, but not on condition of priming his poem as is vulgarly imagined.
•It is probable that he adapted hisve.-fe to the intellects of his hearers, the only excuTe
for tne variety of grofs imagery, of which part of the foliloquy of Jonas in the fifti's
Vbelly, will be thought a fufticient fpecimen :

What lioiife if this? here's noit'ier coiil nor candle j

Whirt I iiothlnjf Init guts of (ilhcs haiidlf,

1 and inv tabic iiic both here within,

Whtre dny ne'er d.iwn'd, wliire I'uii did never (hine.

'i'hehke of this on earth man never f.iw,

A hving iiiau within ainonlicr's maw !

Huryed unJtr mouiitniiis, wliich iic t:ii;h and P.eep !

rhiiijfed under wattrs hiindu'. lathonu deep !

Not fo was Noah in liis honlc ol trie,

For throu^'h a window he the h'f;ht did fee ;

He railc<l above the lii^hctl waves: a vvondcr,

land my boat iuv all the wattrs uiu1-,r .'

He and Lis ark nii^ht go and alfo come ;

But I lit ftiil in fuch .1 ilrait'i.eil room

As is moll uncouth ; hcul and leei together,

Aniunp; fuch guaic as would a thoulViiiJ rmother;

V\ here I iniondnd in niclanclioly fink,

Chuakcd, fufTucate with cxcremcntal tUnk !

McfTrs, Robert and Antlrcw Foulis, printers and bookfellcrs to the'univerfity, have
inQituted an academy for painting and engraving ; and like good citizoub, zealous to
promote the welfare and honour uf tUtir native place, have, at vail cxpence, formed a

molt

J ' '

is .

PBNNANT'ij SECOKD TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

241

vnoll numerous coUedion of paintings from abroad, in order to form the tafte of their
eleves.

The printing is a confiderable branch of bufinefs, and has long been celebrated for
the beauty of the types, and the corrednefs of the editions. Here are preferved, in
cafes, numbers of monumental, and other ftones, taken out of the walls on the Ro-
man ftations in this part of the kingdom : fome are well cut and ornamented : moft of
them were done to perpetuate the memory of the vexillatio, or party, who performed
fuch or fuch works ; others in memory of officers who died in the country. Many of
thefe fculptures were engraven at the expence of the univerfity ; whofe principal did me
the honour of prefenting me with a fet.

The I ft plate is vei-y beautiful : a vifcory, reclined on a globe, with a palm in one .
hand, a garland in the other ; a pediment above, lupported by two fluted pilailers, with
Corinthian capitals : beneath is a boar, a common animal in fculptures found in Britain,
probably becaufe they were in plenty in our forefts. Both thele are in honour of the
Emperor Antoninus Pius.

None is more inftrudive than that engraven in plate III, on which appears a vidory
nbout to crown a Roman horfeman, armed with a fpear and fhield. Beneath him are
two Caledonian captives, naked, and bound with little daggers, like the modern dirks,
by them. On another compartment of the ftone is an eagle and fea-goat, to denote
lume vidory gained in the courfe of their work near the fea : for it was devoted by ^
party of the Legio fecunda Augufta, on building a certain portion of the wall.

The XVlth is monumental : the figure is very elegant, reprefenting one gracefully
r'^ 'tn bent, dreffed in a loofe robe : beneath is a wheel, denoting, that at the time of his
•J a was engaged with a party on the road : and by him is an animal, refembling

•« -M ' Ii fimon or Siberian goat.

In this ftreet is the houfe where Henry Damly lodged, confined by a dangerous illnefs,
fufpeded to arife from poifon, adminiftered at th« mftigation of Bothwell. Here the
unhappy prince received a vifit from Mary Stuart, and took the fatal refolution of re-
moving to Edinburgh. This fudden return of her aflfedion, her blandifhments to en-
veiglr- hini from his father and friends, and his confequential murder, are circumftances
unfavourable to the memory of this unfortunate princefs.

June 1 1. Take boat at the quay .; and after a paffage of four miles down the Clyde,
reach the little flying houfe of Mr. Golborne, now fixed on the Northern bank, com-
manding a moft elegant view of part of the county of Renfrew, the oppofite fhore.
After breakfaft furvey the machines for deepening the river which were then at work :
they are called ploughs, are large hollow cafes, the back isof caft iron, the two ends of
wood ; the other fide open. Thefe are drawn crofs the river by means of capftanfj,
placed on long wooden frames or flats; and oppofite to each other near the banks of
tile rwcr. Are drawn over empty, returned with the iron fide downwards, which
fci apes the bottom, and brings up at every return half a ton of gravel, depofiting it on
the bank : and thus twelve hundred tons arc cleared every day. Where the river is too
wiiie, the ihoros are contraclcd by jetties.

Proceed down the river ; on the left the water of Inchinnan opens to view ; the prof-
ped up the moft elegant and the fofteft of any in North Britain ; the expanfe is wide
and gentle ; the one bank bare, the other adorned with a fmall open grove. A little
ille tufted with trees divides the water ; beyond the fine bridge of Inchinnan receiving
the united rivers of the white and black Cart, and the town and fpire of Paifley,
backed by a long au;l fertile range of rifing land, clofc the fccne.

viii.. ju. XI On

^Ji

fl43

pennant's second Tour in Scotland.

On the right is a chain of low hills, Camfey fells, nmninfr N. W. and S, E. diverge
ing N. E. and advancing to the water fide, terminating with the rock of Dunbuc, that
ahnoft reaches to the Clyde.

Pafs under Kirkpatric, where the river is about a quavtov of a mile broad ; at this
place is a confulerable manufadurc of all forts of iiulbandry tools, began about four
years ago ; but it is far more celebrated for being the fuppofed termination of the Roman
wall, or Graham's dike, built under the aufpices of Antoninus l^ius. Not the lca(t
rclique is to be feen here at prfent ; but about a mile and a half to the caltward on a
rifiiii; ground above the bridge c .he bum of Dalmure, near the village of Duntochcr,
are tiie velliges of a fort and waich-towcr, vith a very deep fofs. The houfes in the
village appear to have been formed out of the ruins, for many of the Rones are fmoothed
on the fide ; and on one are the letters N. E. R. O. very legible. This wall was
guarded with fmall forts from end :o end, that is to fiy, from near Kirk))alric to within two
miles of Abcrcorn, or, as Uede calls it, the monallcry of Abercurnig, or the Firth of
Forth, a fpac , of thirty-fix miles eight hundred and cightv-feven paces; of thefe forts
ten are planned by the ingenious Mr. Gordon, and numbers of tue infcriptions found
in them, engraven. This great work was performed by the Ibldiery under Lollius
Urbicus, lieutenant of Antoninus, in purfuance of the plan before pointed out by the
great Agricola, who garrifoned the whole fpace between the two iirths, removing, as it
was, the barbarians into another idand *.

Ireland will fcarce forgive me if I am filont about the birth-place of its tutelar faint.
He firlt drew breath at Kirkpatric, and derived his name from his lath r, a noble Ro-
man (a Patrician) who lied hither in the time of perfecution. St. Patric took on him-
felf the charge of Ireland ; founded there 365 churches, orda-ned 365 bilhops, 3000
priefts, converted i 2Cc,o perfons in one dillrid, baptized feven kings at once, ella«
blilhed a purgatory, and with his italf at once expelled every reptile that itung or
croaked.

Somewhat lower, on the fame fide, Dunglafs projects into the water, and forms a
round bay. On the poin: is a ruined fort, perhaps on the fite of a Roman ; for prob-
ably the wall might have ended here, as at this very place the water is deep, and at all
times unfordable by foot or horfe. The fort was blown up in 1640, as fome fay, by the
defpcrate treachery of an Engliili boy, page to the Eari of Haddington, who, witli
numbers of people of rank, were mifeiably uellroyed f. IJelow this the river widens,
and begm^ to have the appearance of an iciluary : the fcene varies into other beauties ;
the hills arc rockv, but cloathed at the bottom by ranges of woods, and numbers ol pretiy
villas grace the country. Dunbuc n\akes I'ow a confiderable figure : the plain of
Dumbarton opens; the vaft and Itrange bicapitatcd rock, with the ibrtrefs, appears full
in front ; the town and its i'pire Ivyond ; tiie line river Levcn on one fide, and the vail
mountains above Loch-lomond, and the great bale and foaring top 4' Ben-lomond clofe
the view.

The Roman fleet, in all probability, Iiad its ftation under Dunbartop the Glota or
Clyde, has theie fufhcient depth of water ; the place was convenient ai.,, i'ecure; ne:!r
the end of the wall, and covered by the fort at Ouiiglais ; the ph;uos on the top of the
great rock is aucnher ftrong proof that the Roiuans made it their harbour, for the
water beyond is impafiablc for Ihijjs, or any vctlek oi large burden.

• Tacit u».

•| Wliiulutk, 35. Crawford's Peerage, 1 £2.

After

PENNANT fl SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

fi43

After a long conteft with a violent adverfe wind, and very turbulent water, pafs
under, on the S. fiiore, Newark ; a cadcllatcd houfe, with round towers. Vifit Port-
Glafgow, a confulerablc town, with a great pier, and numbers of large fhips: de-
pendent on Glafgow, a creation of that city, iince the year 1668, when it was pur-
chafed from Sir Patric Maxwell of Newark, houles built, a harbour formed, and the
cultom-houfe for the Clyde eflablilhed.

Proceed two inilcs lower to (Ireenock, anciently called the bay of St. Lawrence ; a
place ftill more confiderablc for its fliippiug than the former ; and Hke the other a port
of Glafgow, twenty-two miles dillant from it. The Firth here expands into a fine
bafon, four miles wide, and is land-locked on all fides. Dine here, contradt for a vef-
fel for my intended voyage, and return to Glafgow at night.

June 1 2. Crofs the new bridge, at whofe foot on that fide is Corbel, a fort of fuburbs
to Glafgow. The county of Lanerk ftill extends three miles down the river ; but after
a Ihort ride, I enter the (hire of Renfrew.

Leave on the left the hill of Langfide, noted f 'r the battle in J568 ; which decided
the fortune of Mary Stuart, and precipitated her into that fatal (tep of deferting her
country, and flinging herfelf hito an eighteen years captivity, terminating in the lofs of
her head, the difgrace of the annals of her glorious rival. Ride through a fine coun-
try to Cruickfton cadh, feated on the fummit of a little hill ; now a mere fragment,
only a part of a fquarc tower remaining of a place of much magnificence, when in its
full glory. The lituation is delicious, commanding a view of a wcU-cultivated trafl,
divided into a multitude of fertile little hills.

Thir was originally the property of the Crocs, a potent people in this county ; hut
in the reign of Malcolm IL was conveyed, by the marriage of the heirefs, daughter
of Robert de Croc, into the family of Stuarts, in after-times earls and d kes of Lenox,
who had great poffeilions in thele parts. To this place Henry Darnly retired with his
enamoured queen, Cruickflon being then, as Cliefdcn in the time of Villiers,

TIic feat of wantonnefs and love.

Here fame fays that Mai7 fird refigned herfelf to the arms of her beloved, beneath a
great yew, Itill exifting ; but no loves would Anile on joys commenced beneath the
ihade of this funereal tree ; the hour was unpropitious.

llle (lies primus Letlii, prinnisque malorum, caufa fult.

It was even fard * that Mary, unconfcious of events, ftruck a coin on the occafion,
uith the figure rf the fatal tree, honored with a crown, and diftinguiflied by the motto,
*' Dat gloria vires." But I have opportunity of contradicting this opinion from an ex-
amination of the coins themfelves, whofe dates are 1565, 1566, and 1567!. The
tn-e is evidently a palm, circninfcribed, " Exurgat Dtus, diflipentur inimici ejus."
Pendent from the boughs, is the motto above cited, which is part of the following
lines taken from P>-opertius, alluding; to a fnail climbiag up the body of the tree, a
nioilefl coniparifon of tlie honors that Henry Darnly received by the union with his
royal fpoufe :

Map;mini iter afciMilo, fed dat milii gloria vires,
Koii iuvnt ex f.'.cili, lata corona jiigo.

Lib. iv. El. 2.

• B:(lu-.p NicIiolfoTi's Scottirti Libvaiy, 323.
I Sec yifo Atidcifon'j Coir.s, tab. ifij.

1 I 2

Vifit

'■1 -'

¥'l

244

ni*MANt*« SfiCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Vifit Palflcy, a confiderable but irregularly built town; at the diftance of two miles
from Cruickilon, fix miles wed of Glafgow, two miles lbuth-we(t of Renfrew, and
fourteen fouth-call of Greenock. It was eredted into a burgh of barony in the year
i.>88, and the affairs of the community are managed by three bailies, of which the
tldeft is commonly in the commiffion of the peace, a treafurer, a town-clerk, and ie-
venteen counfellors, who are annually elcded upon the firft Mov.day after Michaelmas.
It ftands on both fides the river Cart, over which it has three Itonc bridges, each of
two arches : the river runs from fouth to north, and empties itfclf into the Clyde^
about throe miles below the town : at fpring-iitles veffels of forty tons burthen come
up to the quay ; and, as the inagiftrates are now clearing and deepening the river, it
is hoped that ftill larger may hereafter get up. The comnuinication by water is of
great importance to the inhabitants, for fending their goods and manufadlures to Port-
Glafgow and Greenock, and, if they chufe it, to Glafgow; and betides, was thtf
grand canal finilhed, they will have an cafy communication with the Firth of Forth, ar,
the canal joins the Clyde about three or four milts north of Paifley.

Notwithflanding its antiquity, this town was of little confequence till within thefe laft
fifty years ; before that period fcarce any other maniifadure was carried on but coarfa
linen checks, and a kind of ftripcd cloth called Bengals; both which have long been
given up here ; while thefe were the only manufaduro, the inhabitants feem to have
had no turn for enlarging their trade, for their goods were exp^feJ to fale in the week-
ly market, and chiefly bought up by dealers from Glafgow : foine of tlieiii, however,
who travelled into England to fell Scots manufadures, picked up a more genenii
knowledge of trade, and having favcd a little money, fettled at home, and thought of
ellablilhing other branches ; to which they were the more encouraged, as their acquaint-
ance in England was like to be of great life to them.

About fifty years ago the making of white Hitching threads was firft introduced info
the weft country by a private gentlewoman, Mrs. Millar, of Bargarran, who, very much
to her own honour, imported a twift-niill, and other neceflary apparatus, from Hol-
land, and carried on a fmall nianufadure in her own family : this branch, now of fuch
general importance to Scotland, was foon after eftablilhcd in Pailley ; where it has ever
fince been on the increalo, and has now difful'ed itfelf over all parts of the kingdom.
In other places girls are bred to it ; here they may be rather faid to be boni to it ; as al-
moft every family makes fome threads, or have made formerly. It is generally com-
puted, that, in the town and neighbourhood, white threads are annually made to the
amount of from 40 to 50,000!.

The manufadure of lawns, under various denominations, is alfo carried on here to
a couiidcrable amount, and to as great perfection as in any part of Europe. Vult
quantities of foreign yarn are annually imported from France, Germany, &c. for this
branch, as only the lower priced kinds can be made of our home nimifaclured yarn.
It is thought the lawn branch here amounts to about 70,0001. a inually. The filk
gauze has alfo been eftabliftied here, and brought to the utmoft pcrfevtion ; it is w. ought
to an amazing variety of patterns; for fuch is the ingenuity of our wi .ivers, that nothing
in their branch is too hard for them. It is commonly reckoned that this branch amounis
to about 6o,oool. annually.

A nianufafture of ribbons has, within thefe twelve months, been eflabliflied here,
and both flowered and plain are nude, in every refped as good as in any place in Eng-
land. In thefe different branches a great number of people are employed, many of
them boys and girls, who muft otherwife have been idle for .'ume years. It muft be
tolrcinely agreeable to every nun who wifties well to his country, to fee in the fummer

feafoa

MNMANT's second tour in SCOTtAND*

«4S

feafon, bcth fides of the river, and a great many other fields about town, covered with
cloth and threads ; and to hear, at all feafons, as he pafles along the (Ireets, the induf-
trious and agreeable noife of weaver's looms and twid-mills. The late unfortunate
ftagnation ot trade has been felt here, as *vcll as in mofl other parts of the ifland; but
it is hoped, if things were a little more fettled, trade will revive, and the induflrious
artificers be again all employed.

Befides thefe general manufa6;urcs, feveral others of a more local kind are carried
on here j there is a vj'ry corifiderable one of hard-foap and tallow candles, both of
which are eftecmed excellent of Uieir kinds, as the gentlemen concerned fpared no
erpence to bring their manufafluro to pevfe^wion ; their candles, efpecially their mould-
ed ones, are reckoned the befl and mod elegant that have been made in Scotland, and
great quantities of them are fent to England and to the Wed Indies. They are made
after the Kenfington manner, and with this view they had a man from London, at very
high wagos. There are alfo two tanning works in town» and a copperas work in the
neighbourhood.

Before the year 1735, the whole people in the paridi, town and country, faid their
prayers in one church, and the reverend and learned Mr. Robert Miller difchaj-ged
the whole duties of the paftoral office for many years without an afliftant ; but fiiice
that period the town has increafed fo much, that behdes the old church there are now
two large ones, and two fecedhig meeting-houfcs. The church firft built, called tlie
Laigh, or low-church, is in form of a Greek crofs, very well laid out, and contains a
great number of people: the other called the high church, is a very fine building, and
ai it flands on the top of a hill, its lofty ftone fpire is ften at a vaft diftat.ce ; the church
is an oblong fquare, of eighty-two feet by fixty-two, within the walls, built ot free-
ftone,, well fmoothed, having ruftic corners, and an elegant ftone cornice at top : though
the area is fo large, it has no pillars ; and the feats and lofts are fo well laid out, that
though the church contains about three thoufand people, every one of them fees ths
niiniftcr: in the condrudion of the roof, (which is a pavillion, covered with flatf,
having a platform covered with lead on the top_) there is fomething very curious ; it is
admired by every man of tafte, and with the whole building, was planned and conduc-
ed by the late very ingenious Baillie Whyte, of this place. The town houfe is a very
handibme building of cut-Hone, with a U fpire and a clock: part of it is let for aii
inn, the reft is ufed as a prifon and coi . oonis ; for here the fherifl'-courts of the coun-
ty ar'^ he' J. The flefii-market has a genteel front of cut-ftone, and is one of the neat-
eft «..d moft commodious of the kind in Britain ; butchers' meat, butter, cheefe, tifti,
wool, and feveral other articles, are fold here by what they call the tron-pound of
twenty-two Englifli ounces and a half. The poor-houle is a large building, very well
laid out, and ftands cppofite to the quay, in a fine free air j it is fupported by a imall
tax, impoltd upon the inhabitants quarterly. There are at prefent in the houfe above
fixty, of which number about thirly-fix are boys and girls, who are carefully educated,
and the boys put out to bufinefs at the cxpeiice of the houfe. Befides thefe, many
out-penfioners have weekly fuppiies. Moft of the mechanics and artificers in town,
and feveral others, that fall not under thefe denominations, have formed themfelves
into focicticp, and have eftabliftied funds for the aid of their diflrefl'ed members ; thefe
funds are generally well managed, and of very great benefit to individuals.

The old part of the town runs from eaft to weft upon the fouth flope of a ridge of
hills, frdm which there is a pleafant and very cxtenfive profpeft of the city of Glaf-
gow, and the adjacent country on all fides, but to the fouthward, wJiere the view ter-
minates on a ridge of gretn hills, about two milts diftant. Including the late buildings

and

i )\

\-n

't h

246 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

and fuburbs, it is about an Knglifli mile lonp, and niucli about the fame breadth. So
late as the year 1746, by a \ory accurate iiirvcy, it was found to contain fcarce four
ti)cut'and inhabitants ; but it is now thought to have no fewer tlian from ten to twelve
thouland, all ages included. The Earl of Abercorn's burial place is by much the
greateit curiofity in Paiiley : it is an old Gothic chapel, without pulpit or pew, or any
ornament whatever ; but has the fineft cclio perhaps in the world : w lien t!ic enil-door
(the only one it has) is fliut, the noife is equal to a loud and not very didant clap of
thunder; if you ftrikc a (ingle noteof mufic, you hear the found gradually afcendiuT;,
till it dies away, as it" at an immenfe dillance, and all the while dillufinj!; iti'elt throu;!,h
the circumambient air : if a good voice fini^s, or a mufical indrumcnt is well played
»ipon, the eft'e£t is inexprelfibly agreeable. In this chapel is the mounmcat of Marjory
Bruce : flie lies recumbent, with her hands clofcd, in the altitude of prayer : above
was once a rich arch, with fculptures of the arms, &c. Her llory is fmgular: fhe v.a»
daughter of Robert Bruce, and wife of Walter, great flcward of Scotland, and mother
of Robert II. lu the year 1317, when flie was big with child, Ihe broke her neck in
lumting near this place : the Ccfarian operation was inllantly performed, and tha
child taken out alive ; but the operator chancing to hurt one eve witii his iiillrument,
occafioned the blemilh that gave him afterwanls the epithet of Blear-eye ; and the
monument is aifo [lyled that of Queen Bleary. In the fame chapel were interred Eliza-
beth Muir and Euphemia Rols, both conibrts to the fame monarch : the fird died before
his acccflion.

About half a mile fouth-wcft of Paiflcy lies Maxwelton : a very neat little village,
crcfted fince the year 1746, where the manufactures of filk gauze are cairied on to a
coiifiderabic extent.

There is f-axce a veflige remaining of the monallery, founded in 1 160, by Walter
fon of Allan, " Dapifer Regis Scotia: pro anima quondam regis David et anima Ilenrici
*' regis Anglix et anima comitis Ilenrici et pro ialute corporis et anima; Malcolmi ct
" pro animabus omnium parentium meorum, et bencl'aflorum nee non et mei ipfius
" ialute, kc." The monks, who were inftruifled with this wtigiUy char;"?, were firft
of the order of Cluniacs, afterwards changed to Cidercians j and lallly, the firll order
was again reflon-d.

The garden wall, a very noble and cxtcnfive one of cut done, conveys fome idea of
the ancient grandeur of the place : by a rude inl'cription, Hill extant, on the north-wefl
corner, it appears tol;ave been built by Georg'> Shaw, the abbot, in the year 1484, the
fame gentleman who four years after procured a charter for the town of Paifley. The
infcription is too fmijular to be omitted :

Tliy c.il'it llif aWot Gcorj^e of SIuw,
/.tj.iut ir.v abhty jiil n'.akf iliis w.iw
An liiindud fi)ur liiiii(lri.<Uli /rar
r^i;;!iiy-fi)iir tl;e (!:i'e but weir,
I'ray for bis fjlv,i;i' n
That laid this noble fo'.i.ulniion.

As the frcat rtewriils of Scotland were th' ir patrons and Iktt faflors, they enjoyed
ampl" privileges, and verv cnnjcrable rcvtiiu.-s ; they were tii;- p-.i'rons of un fewer
than thiity-one pariflies, in diii'jrcnt parts of the kiiigdoin. The monks o{' this abbey
wrote a ciironii^le of Scots affair?, crdled the black-bonk of Paiflev, an authentic copy of
whicli is faid to h-ive been biirnt in the abb'-y of Holyrood-!bni(o, during Cronr.vell's
ufurpat'on : another ropy taken from Mr. Robi.rt SpottifwooJ'L-; library, was carried to
>Jnglaiid by Geiicral Eambert. The churluuuy of the monallery is laid to be ftillex.

taut ;

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

347

tant ; the nccount of the charters, bulls of confirmation, donations, &c. is brought
down to th'.' year 154^. John Hamilton, llu; lad abbot, was natural brother to the
Duke of Hamilton, and, upon his promotion to the fee of St. Andrew's, in 1546, re-
figned tlR' abbacy of P.iifloy in favour of Lord Claud Hamilton, third fon of that
Duke; which refijniation was aiterwards confirmed by Pope Julius III, in the year
1553. This Lord (.'laud Hauiilton, titular abbot of Paifley, upon the difl'olution of
the nionafleries obtaiiu d from King James the Vlth, a charter, ercding the lands bc-
lon(iiii;f to the abliacy into a temporal lordfliip : this charter is dated at Edinburgh,
July 29, 1587. He was, by the lame prince, created a peer, in 1J91, by the tiile of
Lord Paifley, and died in i6^i. In 1604 his elded fon had been created Lord Aber-
corn, and in 1606 wns railed to the dignity of an Karl. The family is now reprefcnted
by the Right Hon. James Earl of Abercorn, Baron Hamilton ofStraban, in Ireland, Sec.
Thi^ lordfliip of Paifley was difpofed of to the Earl of Angus, in the year 1652, and by
him I ) William Lord Cochran, afterward-. Earl of Dundonald, in 1653, in ^^hich
famil) it contituieil till the y;'ar 1764, when-the prcfent Earl of Abercorn repurchafed
the p'.ternal inh<'r''ance of his family. The abbey-church, when enure, has been a
grand building, in form of a crofs ; the great north window is a noble ruin, the arch
very lofty, the middle pillar wonderfully light, and dill entire : only the chancel now
remains, which is divided into a middle and two fide-aiflcs ; all very lofty pillars, with
Gothic arches ; above thefe is another "angc of pillars, much larger, being the feg.iient
of a circli', and above a row of arched niches, from end to end ; over which the roof
ends in a fharp point. The outfide of the building is decorated with a profufion of or-
naments, efpccially the great wed and north doors, than which fcarce any thing
lighter or richer can be imagined.

But notwithdanding popery and epifcopacy were expelled this country, yet fuper-
ftition and credulity kept lull pollcflion in thefe parts. In 1697 twenty poor wretches
were condemned for the imaginary crime of witchcraft, and five actually fuffered at the
ffake on June 10th in the fame year*. One young and handfome ; to whom is attri-
buted the heroic reply mentioned in my former volume f. So deep was the folly of
excefs in belief rooted here, that full credit fecms to have been given to an account that
one of the condemned (a wizzard) was drangled in his chair by the devil, I fuppol'e
left he fliould make a confeflion to the detriment of the fcrvice.

The vcdigcs of the Roman camp at Paifley, are at prefent almod annihilated. Of
the outworks mentioned by Camden, there are no traces ol any excepting one, for at a
place called Cadle Head, arc dill kit aflwmarks, but nothing entire. There had
been a military road leading to the canip, which is fuppofed to have been the vanduara
oi Ptolomy.

Continue my journey towards Renfrew. On the road fee a mount or tumulus,
with a fofs round the bale, with a fmgle done erected on the top. Near this place was
dcli-';'.ted and fl^iin Sumerk'd Tiiano of Argyle, who in 1159, with a great army of
banditti, colledcd from Ireland | and other parts, landed in the bay of St. Laurence,
and led them in rebellion againlt Malcolm iV. 'I'hat this mount was raifed in memory

• N.iira'Ive<<f the (linbollcal prai^ices of .ibove twenty wizzarils, &c. f rlTiteil 1697.

■|- 'i lit f.'iil ill \'v iiilnii.s 111 (iv' ii itply equally (;ri-:it Ilt-i [jtifccutors liarl only om cirrunillance acjai'iift
liir: tliiit if CDiieealiiijr litiliif, f ir wlieii the nioh e.imc to fc/.e lur iiic>'lifi, fiic hid herftlf in t'le coal-hole.
On her tri.il the by- llai.dei h pit) in;; htr \oiith and innoceiiee, Udviftd her to plead In r hel'.y .heriplicd
ui'h ilie utiuoil r.iiiit, that imuv ithllanding iliey ha<l power to put her to deadi ; they never fiiould make
l.tr ('■ liroy her repctalioii by fo iiifamoub aple.i.

I 141

l/.-:'^m

,'■■■ t-r

h'&Vk

Pr.NNANT's SrCOND TOTJR IN BCOTI.AND.

r * ■

J.'

; j-*

of (o fignal an event is not improbable, cfpcclally as wi; are told by a moft rcf|)Oinablt;
writor •, that his troops retired iiiini"lcll 'd ; ihcrelore iiiijjht have leil'ure to fling up
tiiis ufual tribute to the honour of their leader.

Reach Renfrew the county town, now an inconfiderable place. Robert II. had a pa-
lace here, which flood on a piece of Rrtnuul of about h.ilf an acre, ftill called the Caflle
hill ; but nothing remains but the ditch which lurroimded it. 'I his monarch full made
Renfrew an independent flieriffdom, for before it was joined to that of Lanerk.

Pafs by the tower of Inch, or ifle fo called, from its cnce havinjr been, as tradition
fjiys, funoundod by the Clyde. Mr. CrawfonI, in his hiltory of the county info/ms us,
it had been the property of the barons Rols of Haulkhead.

All the land in th'Te parts excellent, bet niofl ill and flovenly dreffed. Crofs the
Clyde, pafs by Panic, a village where the b.ikers of CJlafgow have very confiderable
mills on the water of Kelvin, and a great tracl of land, at prefent valued at ten thou^
fand pounds; originally granted to them by the regent Murray, in reward for their
fervices in fupplying his army with bread previous to the decifivc batib of Langlide,
Return again to Glaijgow.

June 13. Set out in company with Mr. Golbornc for Loch I.oinond. Pafs for a
few miles over a pleafant country, hilly> well cultivated, and often prettily planted,
and thick fet with neat villas. Go over the lite of the Roman wall, near Bcmulie,
where had been a confiderable fort, whofe plan is engraven by Mr. Gordon. Crofs the
Kelvin, and enter the fliirc of Lenox, or (licritFdom of Dunharton.

Sec on the right Mugdoc caille, a fquare tower, the antient feat of the Grahams;
and near it is a mount, probably the work of the Romans, for they penetrated on this;
fide as far as the banks of Loch-Lomond, a gold coin of Nero and another of Trajan
having been found in the parifh of l!)ruinmond. The country now grows high,
nioory, black, and dreary. Pafs over Fenwick bridge, flung over a dark and rocky
glen, (haded with tree*;, impending over a violent torrent. Leave at fome diftance ou
the right the fmall houfe of Mols, inmiortalizcd by the birth of the great Buchanan.
Crofs a handfome bridge over the water of Enneric, and brcakfaft at the village of
Diummin or Drummond with the Rev. Mr. Macfarlane, the niinifter of the place,
'ihe parifli, which takes its name from Druim, a back, from the ridges that run along
it, is in extent nine miU-s by feven ; and fome years ago contained about a thoufaivd
eight hundred fouls, but the number is much reduced by the unfeeling pra£lice of
melting fevcral lefler farms into a greater. Arrive once more within fight of the
charming Loch-Lomond.

Approach its fliores, go through the narrow pafs of fiualmacha, where the Grampiaa
hills finifli in the lake. Many of the illes run in a line with, and feem to have been a
continuation of them ; appearing like lb many fragments rent from them by fome
viulcnt convulfion. Arrive in a beautiful bay-: the braes of the hills on the right are
lofty, fome Wled with fmall pebbU-s, others have a ftTruginou.s look. The iflands are
mountainous, and exhibit variety of charnis. Inch»Culloch, or the ifle of nuns, has on it
the remains of a church, is finely wooded, and is faid to iiavc been the feat of the fair
reclufes. Inch-Murrin, or the illeof St. Murrinuj, is two miles long, is a deer-park,
and has on it the ruins of a houfe once belonging to the family of Lenox. On this
rfi.md John Colquhoun, laird of Lufs, with fcveral of his followers, were barbaroufly
murdered by a party of iflanders, who, under condud of Lauchlan Maclean, and Mur-
lioc Giblbn in I439) carried fire and fword through this part of North Britain.

• Rev Dr. John Macphcrfon.

Various

pennant's second rovv. in bcotland.

Various oilior ifliinds grace this fine cxpanfo : Inch-Lnnalj; of pt cat extent is
lilackcuod witli tho doip }!;recii of yews. 'I'he ofprcy inhubils a ruiivd calUe on Incli-
Galbr.iiili ; and fcvtral little low aiui and naked ilKs IVrve to dlverfify tlie fcenc.
I'roiu this fjiot the boundaries of the water are magnificent and dlllindt ; the wood( d
fide of the wellern, and the foaring head of Ben-lonioad on the eafltrn, forui a view
that is alniod unequalled.

The top of this great nmuntain is compofed of a micaceous fl.ite, mixed with quartz.
The JK'lftiMiii procioii/Hiis, A \>\;mt unknown in England, prows on the ujiper partfl.
I'turniigans inhabit iis funiniit, and roes the woods near its bafe, the moll louthern
refort of thofe animals in our iHand.

The height ol Ben-loniond from the fiirface of the lak? is three thoufand two hun-
dred and forty feet ; the profpect from the fummit of vail extent ; the whole extent
of Loch-lomond with its wooiled ifles appears jufl bcn-ath. Loch loung, Loch-kettering,
Lochcarn and the river C lyde form the principal waters. The mountains of Arran
appear very dilHnft, and to tlie north, Alps upon Alps fill up the amazing view.

Rtturn the fame way, and vifit Buchanan, the feat of tlie Duke of Montrofe, in a
low and mofl. difadvantageous fituation, within a mile of the lake, without the lead
view of fo delicious a water. This had b^"n the feat of tho Buchanans for fix or fevcn
ages, till it was pui chafed by the family ot Monfrofe, fomctime in the lall century,
'i rees grow well aliout the houfe ; and the country yields a good deal of barley and
oats, and fome potatoes, but • ory little wheat.

Ills Grace has in his podeihon a portrait of his heroic anccflor James Marquis of
JMontrufe ; his fix victories, groat as they were, do him lefs honour than his magna-
nimity at the h( ur of his death : he a'cended the gibbet with a dij^nity and fortitude
that caufed the i'^uominy of his punidimcnt to vanilli ; he fell with a gallant contempt
of the cruelled infults ; with that intr^'pid piety that blunted the nialict.' of his enemies,
and lilt them filled with the confufion natural to little minds, difappointed in the
llrained contrivances of mean revenge.

It is amufing to read the wxv.k cllecls of fear, envy, and rancour in the reports of
the times: " The witches (laid the wretched covenant! rs) were confulted at his
birth i it was predirted that the boy would troutJe Scotland ; and while he was a fuck-
ing child (add they) he eat a venomous toad *.

Walk in the alternoon over the neighbouring environs. See the water of Enneric
that dilcharyes iilell hcvc into the lake.- Salmon in their annual migration pafs up the
I.even, traverl'e the lake, and feck this river to depofit their fpawn.

'i'he furface of L(Kh-lomond has for feveral years pa 11 been obfervcd gradually to
increal'e and invade the adjacent iliore ; and there i.> realon to fuppofe that churches,
honil'S, and other buildings have been loll ii the water. Near l.ufs is a large heap of
ftones at a uillanco in>m tho (hore, known by the name of the Old Chur*. 'i ; and about
a mile to the iouih ot that, in the middle of a large bay, between Caniflraddan .md
the ille Inch lavenack, is another heap, faid to have been tho ruins of a houfe. lo
conlinn this, it is evident by a paiVage in Camden's Atlas Britannica, that ?n ifland,
cxiiUng in his tMiie, is now loft, for he Ipi.aks of the ille of Camftraddan, placed be-
tween the lands of the fame name and Inch-lavannck, in which, adds he, was an
houfe and orchard. Ijefides this proof, large trees with their branches Hill adhering
are freciucntly found in the mud near tho Ihorc, overwhelmed in lormer times by the
iucixafe of water. Tliis is fuppofed to be occafioncd by the vail quantities .t fione

vol.. III.

' Stag'.ji'iiiig State of Scoti-h Statcfmcii, p 14.
K K

'i;iiI1

\'iH_

■;»ii

urd

t* ',"■

950

PFNNANT's 8EC0ND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

and gravel that is continually broiiglit down by the mountain rivers, and by the Tills of
the banks of the I.evcn : thi- (irit tilling the bod of the lake, the lull impcdinj; itii
ilifcharj'c through the bed of the river.

Mr. (jolbornc, at the reiiuell of the C vcral proprietors, has made a voya|;e and fur-
%'cy of the lake, in order to plan loine nliif from the encroachment of the water.
He propnf( s to form a conltant navij^ation down the Lcven, by deepening the channel,
and cutting through the neck of two great curvatures, which will not only enable the
iidiabit.mis of the environs of l.och-lomond to convey their flate, timber, bark, &c. to
the market ; but alio by lowering the lurface of the lake, recover fomc thoufands of
acres now covered with water.

'Ihe tide flows up '' Leven two miles and a quarter. From thence as far as the
lake is a r.ipid current, the fall being nineteen teet in live miles ; the watrr is alio full
of fljoals, lo that in dry fcalons it becomes unaavi, able; and even at bell the velfels arc
drawn up by a number )f horfes.

I mull not leave the pariflj of Drummond without faying, that the celerated Napier
of Merchillon, author of the logarithms, was born at Garlics, within its procinfls.

June 14 and 15. Still at (Ilai'gow: am honoured with the freedouj of the city.

June 16. Set ('lit for Greenock, pafs again through Renfrew; the country very fine,
the hincs for Ibnie fpace well planted on both fides. Ride over Inchinnan bridge, near
which Matthew Earl of Lenox, in 1 506, built a magnificent palace ; get upon fome
high grounds, and, above the feat of Lord Glencairn, have a fine view of the Clyde,
Dunbarton, and all the northern fliore. Reach Greenock ; after dinner take boat
and crofs into the fliire of Lenox, and land where the parilh of Rolheath juts out, and
narrows the bay to the breadth of three miles, formin.; in that part a fort of (f rait ; the
profpedt in the middle of this paflage uncommonly fine ; a contr;\lt of fertility and fa-
vage views ; to the cad were the rich fliores of the (hires of Reiiirew and Lenox, the
pretty feat* on the banks, and the wooded peniniula of Ardniore; and to the weft
appears the craggy tops of the hills of Argylefhire. Vifit Rofeneath houfe a neat feat
of the Duke of Argyle, dated 1634; the grounds well planted, the trees thriving; in
one part of the walks am fliewii a precipitous rock, to which I was informed that the
hero Wallace was purfued, ami obliged to leap down to avoid captivity ; his horfe
pcrifhc d ; the hero efcapcd unhurt. This country was the feat of the Mac-Aulays,
who llruggled long with the Campbcis in_ defence of their rights, but their genius
proved the weaker.

Crofs over the mouth of Loch-gair, which runs to the north fix or feven miles up the
country, the end overhung with lofty ragged mountains. Vifit Airden capel, a new
houfe of Lord Frederic Cainj)bell, fituate on an eminence, commanding a moll beauti.
f'ul view of the Renfrew fhore, and the profpeft of the ports of Port-Glafgow and
Greenock, continually animated with the movement of fliips, and the bufy haunt of
comnu rcL. Ardin-capel was anciently poffeifed bv a family of the fame name ; but in
the time of James IlL it was changed to that of Mac-Aulay, from the word Aulay
happening to be the Ciu-ilUan name of the owner.

A VOYAGE TO THE HEBRIDES.

June 17. Go on board the Lady Frederic Campbell, a cutter of 90 tons, Mr. Archi-
bald I l.ompfon, mafter. Sail at half an hour pall two in the afternoon; pafs on the
left, the villaj^e and little bay of Gourock, a place of failors and fifliermcn ; on the

7 right,

ITNNANT fl (<rCOND TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

3<l

light, the point of Rofenc:\th, in Lcnnx ; botwccn which, and that of SiroiU', in
Cowal, a portion of Ar^yk'fliirc, opens Loch-I.minji;, or 'Aw loch of fhip'', v.hicli runs
north iiiiiny miles up tin; country. This is the Skip.iliord of tl'c Norucyjans, luwinff
in their tongue, the fame fignification. 'I'o this place, in 126;^, Ilaco Kiiigof Norwav,
detached, with fixty fliips, fonic of his officers, who landed and dellroycd all the
country roimd Loch-I-oinond *. Immediately beyond the point of f^itrone the land is
again divided by the Iloly-Loch, or Loch-Seant, extendinir w.-fiward. On iir, northern
liiore is Iviinuui, oner the feat of a collegiate church, founded by Sir Duncan Camp-
btl, in 1442, and fince iliat time tho burial-place of il-.e hou!c ol- Argylo.

Steer fouth, conveyed rather by the force of the tide than v .nd ; the channel (Irair,
and fo narrow as to make every objei't dillintt. On the caltera fhore is tho fquai-e
tower of Leven, and a littK; farther projects the point of Cdoch. Almolt oppofiie, on
the wcdern fide, are the ruins of the cilUe of Dunoon : this fortnfs was polVefled by
the Englifli in 1334, but was taken in behalf of David Rruce, by Sir Colin Canipbel,
of Lochow, who put the garrifon to the fword ; in reward he was made hereditary
governor, and had the grant of certain lands toward its fupport.

The view down the Firtii now appears extremely great : the Ihiro of Renfrew bounds
one fide ; the hills of Cowal, Hoping to the water edge, and varied with woods and
corn-lands, grace the other; in front are the freater and the Icf' ;r Cumrays, the firfl
once remarkable for its church, dedicated to St. Coumba tj nd at p'-.^fent for the
quarries of beautiful frec-llone ; the lad for the abundance of rabbi! the ifle of
Bute, with its fertile fhorc, lies oblique, and the ftupcndous mountairs »i Arran, foar
at fomc diftance far, far above.

Am carried by the point and caftle of Tow art, the flat fou' v "\ extremity of (jwal,
leaving on the eart the fhirc of Ayr. Towart is the proper y 0/ the Lamonds, who,
during the civil wars, fiding with Montrofc, were bcficged in it, and, on the furren-
der, put to the fword J. At adiftance is pointed out to me, in that county, the fitc
of Largs, diftinguifhed in the Scottilh annals for the final defeat of the Norwegians in
1263, which put an end to their invafions, and refliored to Scotland the poffeflion of
the Hebrides.

Steer towards the coaft of Bute, and in the evening land .it the little point of Squo-
log, and walk up to Mount-Stewart, the feat of the Earl of Bute ; a modern houfe,
with a handfome front and wings : the fituation very fine, on an eminence in the
midft of a wood, where trees grow with as much vigour as in the more foutliern
parts, and extend far beneath on each fide ; and throflles, and other birds of fong,
fill the groves with their melody.

The ifle of Bute is about twenty meafured ri'os long; the breadth unequal, per-
haps the greateft is five miles; the number i;' <; .cs about twenty thoufand ; of in-
habitants about four thoufand ; here are two pariihes, Kingarth and Rothefay ; at the
laft only the Erfe language is ufcd. It mufl: be obferved alfo, that in the laft church
were buried two of the bifliops of the iflcs 5, but whether it was at limes the refidence
of the prelates does not appear.

The country rifes into fiiiall hills, is in no part mountainous, but is highefl: at the
fouth end. 'Jhc (Irata of Hone along the Ihore from Rothefay bay to Cil-chattan, is a
red grit, mixed with pebbles ; from the firft, tranfverfe to Scalpay bay, is a bed of
flate, which feems to be a continuation of that fpecies of ftone, rifing near Stonehive,

• Univetfds villa') in circul'.ii Lacus Lokiildfrii vallarunt. Torfxus, Hift, Oread. 167.

\ Dcdu of the Hits, 6. ^ Uuchi'iian's Claiis, part i, IJ2. ^ Kciih, 180.

K K 2 on

f' .>;!

'*!. <

>t i

'^^' '■*'\'a

I Jl

I'm

252

rENNANT'3 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTIAND,

on the caflcrn fule of Scotland, and continucil, with ionic interruptions, to this ifland ;
Init is of u bad kind, both at its orig'n and termination. In the fouth end is fouie
liiTJoftone ; fonic fpoitcd Hone, not unlike lava, is found near the fouth end.

The quadrupeds of tliis illand arj hares, polecats, weafels, otters, feals, and as a
compliment to tlie loil, mohs. Among the birds, groufc and partridge are found
here.

'Ih;; cuIiiva:ion of an extenfivc tnnfl- on this eaftern fide is very confidt^rable. In the-
article of inclofure, it lias the dart of the more fouthcrn counties of this part of the
kingdom: the hedges are tall, thick and vigorous ; the white-thorns and wicken trees
now in full flower, and about two thoufand acres have been thus improved. Ihe
manures are coral and fca-fliells, fca-wceds, and lime. I obferved in many places whole
llrata of corals and (hells of a vail thickne's, at prefent half a mile from the fea, fuch
lofles ha's th.ii element fuftained in thefe par(s. The ifland is deflitute of coa', but Ifill
much lime is burnt here, not oidy for private ufe, but for exportation at a cheap
rate tu the ports -^f Greenock -ind Port-Glafgow.

The produce or the ifl.md is barley, oats, and potatoes. Tlie barley yields nine
from one; the oats four. Turneps md artificial graifes have been lately introduced
with ^'ood luccefs : fo that the inhabitants may have fat mutton throughout the year.
A great number of cattle are alfo reared here. The highefl farm here is fixty pounds
a year, excepting a fingle fliecp farm which rents for two hundred, but the medium is
about twenty-five. Arable land is fet at nine or ten fliillings an acre ; the price of la-
bourers is eight-pence a day. Rents are at prefent moftly paid in money ; the rent-
roll of the ifland is ibout four thoufand pounds a year. Lord Bute poflTelfes inuch the
greater fliare, and two or three private gentlemen own the reft.

The air is in general temperate ; no mills or thick rolling fogs from the fea, called
in the north a harle, ever infelt this ifland. Snow is fcarcely ever known to lie here ;
and even th;it of lall winter fo remarkable for its depth and duration in other places,
was iii this illand fcarce two inches deep. The evils of thi* place are winds and rains,
the iafl coming in deluges from the v.ell.

When the ] refent Larl of Bute came to his eflate, the farms were pofleflfed by a fet
of men, who carried on at the fame time, the profeliion of hulbandry and fifliing to
the manifed hijurv of both. His Lordfliip drew a line between thefe incongruent em-
ploys, and obliged each to carry on the bufinefs he preferred, dillind from the other:
vet ifi judice to the old farmers, notice mull be taken of their (kill in phnighing even in
their ruded day---, for the ridges were firait, and the ground laid out in a manner that
did tivm much credit. But this new arrangement, with the example given by his
l,or(!(!iip of incloling ; by the encouragement of burning lime for fome, and by tranf-
p(>r:inij gra'-s to the nearcil market th'^ produce of all, has given to this ifland its
preT^'Ht flourillilng afp.'d.

This ificwiih that of Arran, the greater and the lefler Cumbrav, and Inchmarnoc,
form a county under the name of Bute. This fliire and that of Caithnefs fend a mem-
ber to p>;rliameiit alternately.

C;ivil caufes are determined here as in other counties of this part of the kingdom, by
the flieriH'-depute, vho is always refident : he is tlu judge in hnallcr matters, and has
a fiMary of abi-iit a hundred and fifty pounds a year, judices of peace have the liur.e
powers here, and ovv;r the whole ceuiity, as in other places ; but in North Britain no
o h'-'r qualificaiion iSi rccpiijed, aft. r Mfinination, t' an taking cut their commiilions, and
giving the ufual oaths.

Criminal*

PF.NN ,NT 9 SKCOND TOUR INL SCOTI^AND. 25^

Criminals are lodged in the county jail ;it Rothefay, but are removed for trial to
Inverary ; wliere the judges of the court of judiciary meet twice a year for the de-
termining of criminal caidls of a certain diftricl.

The Earl of Bute is admir.il of the county by commiflion from his Majefly, but no
way dt-pendcnt on iho Lord High Admiral of Scotland ; fo that if any maritime cafe
occurs within this jurifdid^ion, \(.'vcn crinios of as high a nature as murder or piracy,)
his Lordfliip, by virtue of the powers as admiral, is fuflicient judge, or he may delegate
his authority to any deputies.

June iH. Vifit ihe Ibuth part of the ifland : ride to the hill of Cil-chattan, a round
eminence, from whence is a vad view of all around, inlular and maiidnrd. Oblbrve,
on the face of the hills, that the rocks dip almoft perpendicularly, and form long co-
lumnar Hacks, Ibme oppufrng to us tluir fides, others their angles ; are hard and
cherty, but not bai'altic ; a term I apply to the jointed columns refembling thofe of the
giant's caufeway.

Defcend to 'he ruin of old Kin-garth churc'i. Two cemeteries belong to it, a
higher and a lower ; the lull was allotted for the interment of females alone, becaufe
in old times certain women being employed to carry a quantity of holy earth, brought
from Rome, lofl fome by the way, and I'o incurred this penalty for their negligence,
that of being buried feparatod from the other fex.

Near this place is a circular inclofi e called the Devil's Cauldron : it is made of
flcne, of excellent mafonry, but without mortar, having the infide faced in the moft
fmooth and regular manner. The walls at prefent are only fevcn feet fix inches high,
but are ten feet in thicknefs ; on one fide is an entrance, wide at the beginning, but
grows gradually narrower as it approaches the area, which is thirty feet diatneter.

Mr. Gordon has engraven in tab. iii. a building fimilar to this, near the courfe of
the wall, called Cairn-fual, and llyles it a caltcllum. TIus, I prcfume, could never have
been defigncd as a place of defence, as it is fituated beneath a precipice, from whofe
fummit the inmatos might inflantly have been opprelfed by Hones, or niilllle weapons ;
perhaps it was a fancliiary, for the name of the church. Kin garih, impliei?, kin, chitt
or head, garth * a ianduary ; the common word for places of refuge, girth being cor-
rupted from it.

The fouth end of Bute is more hilly than the reft, and divided from the other part
by a low fandy plain, called Langal-chorid, on which are throe great upright Itoues,
the remains of a driiidi>.;d circle, origin.illy coiupofed of twelve.

Return over a coarle country, and pafs by lands lately inclolcd with hedges, grow-
ing in a very profperous manner. Pafs by Loch afcog, a fmall piece of water, and foou
after by Loch-fad, atH>ut a mile and three quarters long, narrow, rocky on one iJo,
prettily xvooded on the other. The other lochs are Loch-yuyen, and Loch-Greenan,
and each has its livcr. Reach R(Mheray, the capital; a fiuall but well-built town, of
fmall houfcR, and ;ibout two hundred families, and within thefe few years much im-
proved. The females fpin yarn, the UKn fuppv)rt thcmfelves by fifliing. The town
h.'is a good pier, and lies at the bottom of a line hay, whole mouth exadly opens op-
pofite to that of Loch-Streveu in Cowal : here is a fine depth of water, a fecure re-
treat, and a ready navi;;aiiim down the I'irili for an export trade; magazines for
goods for foreign parts mi.;!u moil advantageoully be eftablilhed here.

The callle has ieen built at dilf.rent times, the prolent entrance by Robert III. the
rcll is quite round, wiih rouml towers at the fides, and is of unknown antiquity.

ally iiKaii? no more than ymd tr inclofure.

TTufbec,

'■fl

^■i:'M

^^i¥

:? '-y

.■■>;l

254

PHNNANT's SrCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

'It

i :

Ili'fbec •, grandfon of Somcrled, was killed in the attack of a caftle in Bute, perhaps
of this. Haco -f took, the caflle and whole ifland in the year i 26t^. It was feized by
r.dward BlUIoI in 1334 J, when pofleTed by the high fteward of Scolland, a friend of
the Bruces, and heir to the crown. In the year following the whole ifland, as well as
that of Arran, was ravaged by the Engiifh, under the command of Lord Darcy, Lord
Jiiftice of Ireland. Soon after the natives of Arran and Bute arofe §, and, unarmed,
made an attack with flones on Alan Lile, the Knglifli governor, put his party to flight,
and recovered the Ibrtrefs. It became in after-times a royal refidence: Robert 111. ||
lived there for a confiderable time ; much attention was bellowed on it, for in the reign
of James V. we tiiid that one of the articles of accufation againft Sir James Hamilton,
■was his not accounting for three thoufand crowns, deflined to reform the callle and
palace of Roiay ^. hi 1544, the Earl of Lenox, aflilltd by the Englifli, made hini-
felf maflir of the place ; and in the beginning of the laft century (on what occafion I
do not recollect) it was burnt by the Marquis of Argyle.

Bute is faid to derive its name from Bothe, a cell, St. Brandan having once made it
the place of his retreat ; and, for the fame reafon, the natives of this ifle, and alfo of
Arran, have been fomctimes ftylcd Brandani. It was from very early times, part of
the patrimony of the Stuarts : large poflbnions in it were granted to Sir John Stuart,
natural Ion of Robert II. by one of. his midrelles, but whctiier by his beloved More
or Moreham, or his beloved Mariota de Cardny, is what I cannot determine **.

Continue our ride along a hilly country, open, and under tillage ; pad on the right,
the caftic and bay of Games, long the property of the Bannentynes ; turn to the weft,
defcend to the fhore, and find our boat ready to convey us to the veflel, which lay at
anchor a mile diftant under Inch-mamoc.

An ifland fo called from St. Marnoc, where appear tlie ruins of a chapel, and where
(according to P'ordun ft) had been a cell of monks. The extent of this little ifle is
about a mile, has a hundred and twenty acres of arable land, forty of brufli-wood,
near three hundred of moor, and has vaft (Irata of coral and fliells on the weft fide.
It is inhabited by a gentleman on half-pay, who, with his family occupies the place
under Lord Bute.

June 19. Weigh anchor at three o'clock in the morning ; am teized wul* cahns,
but amufed w ith a fine view of the circumambient land ; the peninfula of Cantyre,
here lofty, floping, and rocky, divided by dingles, filled with woods, which reach the
water-edge, and expand on boih fides of the hollows ; Inch-mamoc and Bute lie to the
eaft ; the mountainous Arran to the fouth ; Loch-fiie, the Sinus Lclalonnius of Ptole-
my, opened on the noi th, between the point of Skipnifli in Cantyre and that of La-
mond in Cowal, and fliewcd a vaft expanfe of water wildly bounded ; numbers of
herring-bufles were now in motion, to arrive in time at Campbeltown, \o receive the
benefit of the bounty, and animated tiie fcene.

Turn northward, leave the point of Skipnifli to the fouth-weft, and with difliculty
get through a llrait of about a hunJrcii yards wide, with funk rocks on both fides,
into the fafe and pretty harbour of the oadern Loch-Tarbat, of capacity fufiicicnt for a
number of fliips, and of a fine depth of water. '1 he fernery wa,; pifturefque ; rocky
little iflands lie acrofs one part, fo as to form a double port ; at the bottom extends a
fniall village, on the Cantyre fiiie is a fquare tower, with velliges of other ruins,

• Torfius. f Diu'hanan. J Doftliuii, 317.

^ Major, r:!;. [I I'jottliiiis ^^^. «' Liii.lefay, irtj.

•* Vide Sir J.imci Dalr)mfle's CoUcitluns. l^Jii^burgli, I70j,p j). v\xviii Usxiii.
ft Lib. ii. c. iQ.

built

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND,

^55

built by the f<imily of Argyle to fecure their noi ilicrn dominions from the inroads of
the inhabitants of the peninfula ; oil the northern lido of the entrance of the harbour
tht rocks are of a moll grotefque form : vafl: fragments jiilecl on each other, tlie faces
contorted and undulated in fuch figures as if created by tulion of matter after fome in-
tcnfe heat ; yet did not appear to me a lava, or under any fufpicion of having bcea
the rcci'emcnt of a volcano.

I,and at the village, where a great quantity of whifky is dillilled.

Vifit the narrow neck of land which joins Cantyre to South Knapdale ; it is fcarccly
a mile wide, is partly moraflV, partly interfered by (trata of rocks, that arc dipping
continuations from the adjacent mountains of each dillri(ih There have been plans for
cutting a canal through this illlnnus to facilitate the navigation between the weftern
ocean and the ports of the Clyde, and to take away the ne^eflity of failing through
the turbulent tides of the Mull of Cantyre : it is fuppofed to be prafticable, but at
vafl; cxpence ; at an expence beyond tlie power of North Britain to effett, except it
could realize thofe funis which the wiflios of a few of its fons had attained in idea.
While 1 meditate on the project, and in nnagination fee the wealth of the Antilles fail
before me, the illufion burlls, the fiiores are covered with wrecked fortunes, real dillrefs
fucceeds the ideal riches of Alnafchar, and difpels at once the beautiful vifion of Aaron
Hill *, and the much all'edled traveller.

Afcend a fmall hill, and from the top have a view of the weflern Loch-Tarbat, that
winds along for about twelve miles, and is one continued harbour, for it has eight
fathom water not very remote from this extremity, and opens to the fea on the wcH
coafl, at Aird-Patr'c : the boundaries are hilly, varied with woods and trafts of heath ;
the country yields much potatoes and fome corn, but the land is fo interrupted with
rocks, that the natives, inltead of the plough, are obliged to make ufe of the fpade.

The time of tlie tides vary greatly at the terminations of each of thefc harbours : at
this the flood had advanced in the eaft loch full three quarters, in the other only one
hour. According to fome remarks Mr. James Watts of Glafgow favoured me with,
the fpring-tidcs in Eaft-Tarbat flow ten feet fix inches } in Well-Tarbat only four feet
fix inches, or, in very extraordinary tides, two feet higher. The tides in the weft
loch are mod irregular ; fometimes neither ebb nor flow ; at other times ebb and flow
tv^icc in a tide, and the quantity of falfe ebb is about one foot. The me. u height of
the firth of Clyde is greater than that of Weft-Tarbat.

It is .lot very long fince veflels of nine or ten tons were drawn by horfes out of the
well ibch into that of the ead., to avoid the dangers of the ISlull of Cantyre, fo dreaded
and fo little known was the navigation round that promontory. It is the opinion of
many that thel'e little illhmufes, fo frequently ftiled Tarbat in North Britain, took their
name from the above ciicumltance ; tarruing fignifying to draw, and bata, a boat. This
too might be called, by way of pre-eminence, the tarbat, from a very lingular circum-
llance reh'.ted by Torfa;us t- When Magnus the Barefooted, King of Norway, ob-
tained from Donald-bane of Scotland the ceflion of the wellern ifles, or all thofe places
that could be furrounded in a boat, he added to them the peninfula of Cantyre by tliis
fraud : he placed himfelf in the iNjrn of a boat, held the rudder, was drawn over this
narrow tracl, and by this fpecies of navigation wrefted the country froni his brother
monarch.

In the afternoon attempt to turn out, but am driven back by an adverfe gale.

Vide Tour of 1 7fij, I (led. p, 215. aded. p. 128.

t Hift. Orc»d. 73.

piai

1 I

: '■' (!s

■mi

June

2 6

riiKNANT B SECOND TOUR IK BCOTLANO.

Jane 20. Get out early in the niornin^ iiUo the fame expanfc as bcfure : land on
Inch-Biii, or the ycUowiflc; an ontire rock, covered with the lich.n p;uiitin\iB. Sail
hy Inch-SkaitL' ; atnufed by tlie fportincr ot feals. Hail a fniall fifliing-boat, in order
to purchalc iomo ofits cargo : am ani'wercd by the owner that he would not fell any,
but that pint v^as at my fcrvice ; a piece of generofity of greater merit, as hi this fcarco
feafon the fubftance of the whole laniiiy depended on lhi> c;(Jod f<^r.une of the day.
'Ihiis in cliell' parus hofpitality is fre.nd even among the mod ndi^ent.

Moll of the morning was pall'.'d in a dead calm : in the afternoon fucceolcd briik
gales, but from points not the moil favourable, which occafioned frequent tacks in
light of port : in one broke our toj)-faii yard. During thefe variations of our courfe,
hud good opportunity of obfcrvlng the compofition ot the ifle of Arran : a feries of va(l
mountains, running in riducs acrofs the whole ; thtir tops broken, ferrnted, or fpiring ;
tiie funimi: of Goatficld r Tmg far above the reft, and the fides of all floping towards the
water eJge; a fcen.', at ih's dillance, of fava^^e lljriiity.

Anotlicr calm within two miles of land : take 10 the boat, and approach Loch-
Ranxa, a fine bay, at the north end of the ifie of Arran, vhcr;.' 1 land in tlic evening.
Ihe ajiproach was magnihccnt : a fine bay in fnjnt, about a mile deep, having a ruined
caflle near the lower tnd, on a low far projecting neck of land, that furms another har-
bour, with a narrow pafllige; but within has t!uee fathom of water, even at the loweft ebb.
iJtyond is a little plain watered by a II roam, and inhabited by the people of a fmall village.
Thewhnl'Ms environed with a theatre of mountains j and in the back ground the fer-
rated crags of Grianan-Athol foar above.

Vifit the caflle, which confifls of two fquare parts united, built of red grit flonc : in
one room is a thiinney-picce, anil fire-place large enough to have roafled an ox ; but
now flrewed vith the ihclls Oi hnipet;?, the hard fare of the poor people who ccca-
fionally take refuge here.

'I'his foriref.^ was founded by one of theScoiiini monarchs, and is of fome antiquity ;
for I'ordun, who wrotf about the year 1380, fpeaks of this and Brodie as royal caflles.

'i he village of Kanza and a fmaU church lie a little farther in the plain : the !a(l was
founded and endowed by Anne Duchefs of Hamilton, in aid of the church of Kilbride,
oi«e of the two parilhcs this great illard is divided into.

Am infornud of a b. iking fhark that had been harpooned iome days before, and lay
on the fliore < n the ( i)porite fide of the bay. Croh ovir to take a view of a fdli (o
rarely to be met with in other parts of Great Britain, and find it a monfler, notvvith-
flanding it was much inferior in f\zc to others that are loniotlmes taken j for there have
been initanctsof tlitir btin" Irom thirty hx to forty f-xt in 1 /ngth.

This w.is tuinty-feven feet four incb.es long. 'I'iic tail coiuilfed of two unequal
lobes; the upper five feet long, tlie ui)pcr three. The circumference of the bouv
^^reat ; the Ikin cincre -.u -, and rougli. 'ihe upper jav n.uch longer than the low et'.
'ihe teeth minute, difpolcd in number.: along the jaws. 'J he eyes placed at oiil\ four-
tcfU itichv-s diKanrc from the tip of the ncfe. 'i'he apertures U) th(' gills very Iji'i ',:uk1
iurnillied witii firuiiiL-rs of the liibltance oi whalebone.

'1 hefe '■■■': :re called in the l-'.rl'e C'airban, by the Scotch Sail-fifh, from the appearance
of Ve dor. .1 linr, above water. '1 hty inhabit mofl parts of tiie vvedern coalls of the
northern feas : Liiuiieu-? fa)s within the rrcl.'c circle; they are found lov.'er, on thi>
foafl of Norway, about the Orkney ille^, the ILbiides, and on the coaC of Irel.md in
the bay of Dalilhannon, and on tlie Welch co;'.lts about Anglcf a. 'I'hey appear in the
firih in June in fmall fliuals of (even or eight, continue th'.Te till the end uf Julv, t;iul

'4 th n

1':

pennant's SECOKD tour in SCOTLAND.

^57

then difappear. They are moft inoffenfive fifli ; feed either on exanguious marine ani-
mals, or an algfc, nothing being ever found in their flomachs except fome dilfoived
giceiiin^ natter.

They iwim very deliberately with their two dorfal fins above water, and feem qui-
efccnt as if aflcep. '1 iiey are very tame or very ftuplJ, and permit the near approach
of man : will I'uffi^r a boat to follow them without accelerating their motion, till it comes
almoit within contaft, when a harpooner (trikcs his weapon into the fifh as near the
gilLs as polliblej but they are often fo infcnfible as not to move until the united ftrength
of two men ha^ forcrd in the harpoon deeper : as foon as they perceive themfelves
wounded, they fling up their tail and plunge headlong to the bottom, and frequently
coil the rope round them in their agonies, attempting to difengage themfelx'es from the
weapon by rolling on the ground, for it is often found greatly bent. As foon as they
difcover that their efforts arc in vain, they fwim away with amazing rapidity, and with
fuch violence that a velTel of feventy tons has been towed by them againft a frefli gale :
they fometimcs run off with two hundred fathoms of line, and with two harpoons in
them ; anil will find employ to the fifliers for twelve and fometimes twenty-four hours
before ih: y are fubchied. When killed they are either hauled on fiiore, or if at a dif-
tance, to the veflel's fide. The liver (the only ufeful part) is taken out and melted into
oil in vcflT'ls provided for that purpofe : a large fifli will yield eight barrels of oil, and
two of fedimcnt, and prove a profitable capture.

Th? commillioncrs of forfeited eftates were at confiderable expence in encouraging
this fpecies of fifhery ; but the perfon they confided in mod (haraefully abufed their
goodnefs ; fo at prefent it is only attempted by private adventurers.

Return, land again and walk through a pretty wood of fmall trees, u^^ the fide of a
hill that bounds the weltern fide of the bay. A gigantic frog *, of the fpecies called
by Linnasus, Bombina, prefented itfelf on the path. In the courfe of our ramble, fall
in with the manfe, or minifter's habitation ; pafs a cheerful evening with him, and meet
with a hearty welcome, and the beft fare the place could afford. Return to our fhip,
which had anchored in the bay.

June a i . Procure horfes, and (accompanied by Mr. Lindfay, the minifter) ride up
the vaMey, crofs the little river Ranza, and leave that and a corn-mill on the right.
Afcend the fteeps of the barren mountains, with precipices often on the one fide of our
path, of which our obfHnate fteeds preferred the very margin. See to the weft the
great crags of Griaiiau-Athol, with eagles foaring over their naked fummits. Pafs
through woods of birch, fmall, weather-beaten, and blafted : defcend by M..c farlane's
Cam, crofs the water of Sannocks, near the village of the fame name : fee a ln\v mo-
numental I tone ; kttp along the eallern coaft ; hear a fermon preached beneath a tent
formed of fails on the beach ; the congregation numerov . devout, and attentive, feated
along the fliore, fonviing a group.- pidurefquo and edifyh'.g.

Dine at the Corry,a fuall houfe belonging to a gentleman of Ayrftiire, who vifitsthis
place for the benefit of goats whey.

Much barrennefs in the mtirning's ride: on the mountains were great maflcs of moor-
ftone ; on the (horc, mill-ltone . : ' red grit-llone.

The ride is continued along the coaft beneath 1. w clifi^s, whofe fummits were cloathed
vith heath that hung from their margins, and :. "i-.ed to diftil fhowt . . f cryllalline
water from evfry leaf, the effect of the various fprings above. Meet i; ': -ck of goaty,
fkipping along the (hore, attended by their herdfman ; and obfcrved them colleding as
they went, and chewing with great delight, the fca plants. Reach

• Vide Enum«ralion of Animals and Plints, No. 231.

▼OL. HI. L h Brodie

258 PENNANTV SKCOND tour in SCOTtAND.

Brodiocafll?, f'ated on an eminence amidlt flo>i' idling plantations, above a fmall bay,
open to the eafl. This place has tiot at prefein mudi the appearance of a fortrefs,
having been niodernizi-d ; is inh ibited by the Duke of Hamilton's agent, who enter-
tained me with the utn'.od civiluy. It is a place of much antiquity, and feemsto have
been the fort held by the Eiiglilh under Sir John Mailings in 13 0, .vheii it was fur-
prifed by the partizaus of Robert Brace, and the garrifon put to the fword. It *v:,.j
demolilhed in 1 456 by the Earl of K.A's, in the rci^V" '^f James II. ; is laid to hav- btea
rebuilt by Janus V., and to have been garriibned in the tin)e of CronuvoU s ul'urjjatior .
Few are the records preferved of thefe dilbint plai-'s, th-Tcfore very wide mutl bv tlieir
hilloric gaps.

Arran, or properly Arr-inn, or the ifland of moar.tuins, fe^ms not to have be ,>r. no-
ticed by the ancients, notwithllanding u mu(l have been known lu the Rvnnans, vhofe
navy, from the time of Agnt.>!a, had its ftation in tl; Glota ^L.'.r uiuni, or the firili of
Clyde: Camden indeed makes this Hhnd the Glota of rViuoninejbiu ;^^' fuch name occurs
in his itinerary; it therefore was bellowed on Arran by lome of hit. commentators.

By the immcnf^: cuirns, tlit: valt monumental Hones, and many r.-iiquv' of Ji idifm,
this ifland muf hii-'- Incn confiderabic in very ancient t-fies. H ic are ilill l;adi;ions
of the hero Hn;;a!, (';■ Fin-mac-coul. who is uppoled here to have enjoyed th> pleaiuroa
ofthechace; .i;iu iianv pb.ce: w -.lia his -Muie : but I can difcover no.iung but oca'
hillory that relates to the alanJ, it:'; (i'.e iisne of Magnus fh„ Barefooted, the Norwegian
vidor, who probably included Ar. j.ii »!^. hv : jr.que'is of Cantyre *. If he did not con-
querthat iiland, it w?s c;.'r;.iinly ir.c)<;..ied ai;; n^( thofc that Donald-bane was to cede ;
for it appears that Acho t, one of li.ij i .u:ceiVoi;j of Magnus, in 1263, laid claim to
Arran, Bute, and the Cumrnys, in con»".>qaence oi: that promilb : the two lirll he iubdueJ,
but the defeat he i;;ct with .u t.;!rgs foon obli-^ed him to give up his conquells.

Arran was the property of the crown : Robert Bruce retired here durin,', his dif-
trefici, and met with protedi'>n from his faithful vafials: numbers of them f ;lloweJ
liis fo.iunes ; and after tlv battle of Bannockbourn hf rewarded feveral, fuch as the
^{ac-cooks, ?>'l.ic-kinnons, i\i.'.':-brides, aiid Mac-louis, or FuUertons, with diii.rent
charters o, ' >nds m their native country. All thefe are now abforbed by this j^reat
faiinly, exccfu the FulUrlons snd a Stuart, defiended from a fon of Ro!)ert III., who
gave him a fen'cnunt htre. In the tun- of the J.">< an of the illes, his defcendani pof-
ieCed callle Dou;;i. ; anj " he and his bluid," fays the dean, " are the btlt men in that
countrcy."

The manner ill v. Mch Robert Bruce difcovcreu hii arrival to his friend.'-', is fo de-
fcriptive of the fimplicity of tiie tiuK's, that it merits lio'.ice, in the very words of tlui
faithfu) old poet, hiilorian of that great pnnco :

Tlie Kill}! then bl<*iv Vt '.orn id tiy,
And jjbrt li!i men tl.at ivcre liiin by,
1-iold ttiriii Ilill ill p.iviiif •
And lyii Hj;ain hii horn I. lew he :
Jiiiiu-3 lit Duw^l.is htarJ him blew,
And writ the hlalt f<iuii can he kiiuw :
A. id f.ii J I jrtlle yon is ihc King, '

I ken liiin mcII by ills blowing :
The ihiid time thcrtwitli als ht blew,
^ Ai.d tf.tii ^^'r Rolicrt l5i)yil'. him knew.

And faij, yo'i is the Kin;^ but il.eid,
(j.i wc will fiirth to har good fpecii. Bar bouh.

• Torf«u5, 71.

r Buchanan, lib vii. c. 6.i.
6

About

PENNANT d SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

359

About ihe year 1334 this ifland appears to have formed part of tho edate of Robert
Stuart, great fteward of Scotland, aftervvardvS Roiiert II. At that time * the inhabitants
took arms to fupport the caufe of their mafter, who afterwards, in reward, not only
granted at their rcqueft an imnumity from their annual tribute of corn, but added fc-
vcral new privileges, and a donative to all the inhabitants that were prefcnt.

In 1 456 the whole ifland was ravaged by Donald Earl of Rofs, and lord of the iflcs.
At thnt period it was dill the property of James II. ; but in the reign of his fuccelTor,
James III., when that monarch matched his filler to Thomas Lord BoyJe, he created
him Earl of Arran, and gave him the ifland as a portion : foon after, on the difgrace of
that family, he caufcd the countefs to be divorced from her unfortunate hulband ; and
bellowed both the lady and ifland on Sir James Hamilton, in vvhofe family it continues
to this time, a very few farms excepted.

Arran is of great extent, being twenty-three miles from Sgreadan point north to
IJcinnean fouth ; and the numbers of inhabitants are about feven thoufaiul, who chiefly
inhabit the coaflis ; the far greater part of the country being uninhabitable by reafon
of the "afl: and barren mountains. Here are only two parifiies, Kilbride and Kilmore,
with a fort of chapel of eafe to each, founded in the laft century, in the golden age of
this ifland, when it was bleft; with Anne Duchefs of Hamilton, whofe amiable difpofition
and humane attention to the welfare of Arran, render at this diftant time her memory
dear to every inhabitant. Blefled pre-eminence ! when power and inclination to dilFufo
happinefs concur in perfons of rank.

'1 he principal mountains of Arran are, Goat-field, or Gaoil-bheinn, or the mountain
of the winds, of a height equal to mod of the Scottiflj Alps, compofed of immenfe piles
of moor-ilone, in form ofwoolpacks, cloathed only with lichens and mofles, inhabited
by eagles and ptarmigans. Beinn-bbarrain, or the fliarppointed ; Ceum-na-caillich,
the ftep of the carline or old hag ; and Grianan-Athol, that yields to none in rug-
gcdnefs.

I'ho lakes are I.och-jorfa, where falmon come to fpawn ; Loch' tana; Loch-na-h-
JTira, on the top of a high hill ; Loch-mhachrai, and Loch-knoc-a-charbtil, full of large
eels. The chief rivers are, Abhan-mhor, Moina-mhor, Slaodrai-machrai, and Jorfa ;
the two laft remarkable for the abundance of falmon.

The quadrupeds are very few : only otters, wild cats, fhrew mice, rabbits, and bats :
the flags wliich ufed to abound are now reduced to about a dozt :n. The birds are
<"ngie!;, hooded crows, wild pitrcons, ilares, black game, tjrous, ptarmigans, daws, green
plovers, and curlowr,. Mr. Stuart, in afcending Goat-field, found the fecondary fea-
ther of an eagle, white with a brown fpot at the bafei which feemed to belong to fome
I'nkninvn ipec.-s. It may be remarked that the partridge at prefent inhabits this ifland,
a proof of th(? advancement of agriculture.

Tho climate is vci y fcvere : for befides the violence of winds, the cold is very rigo-
rous ; and fnow lay Here in the vallies for thirteen weeks of the laft winter, in fumm t
the :iir h remarkably falubrious, and many invalids relbrt here on that account, and to
drinli fhe whey of p,onrr, milk.

The princii^al diicd'e here is the pieurify : fmallpox, meaflcs, and chin-cough vifit the

ifl-ind ncc itv ;'?venc^ eight years. The pradice of bleeding twice evt-ry year u-i'tn^ ro

havi ', .,1 [vAja ie.l a- a preventative againft the pKurily ; but it is now performed with

;- i.tmoft regular:' ■ -it fpriiig ami fall. The Duke of Hamilton keeps a Auiv.vn in

,,ay, V lio at thofo feaiijns makes a to'"»- of the ifland. Oa notice of his appio.ioh, liie

* Bociliius, 318.
L 1. 2

irinbit-'.ni'.

I ft

1- i

it; f ^

z6o

tennant's second tour in scoti.akd.

hm\

inhabitants of each farm afTemblc in the open air, extend thtir arms, and are bled into
a hole mado in the ground, the coniiniMi roceptade of the vital fluid.

In burning levers a tea of wood forrel is ufed with fuccefs, to allay the heat.

An infufion of ramfons, or allium urfiiium in brandy, is eltecmed here a good remedy
for the gravel.

The men are ftrong, tall and well made ; all fpeak the Erfe language, but the ancient
habit IS entirely laid afide. 'I'heir ilietis chiefly potatoes and meal ; and during winter
fome dried mutton or goat is added to their hard fare. A deep dfjedion appears in
general through the countenances of all : no time can be fpared for amu'ement of any
kind ; the whole being given for procuring the means of paying their rent, of laying in
their fuel, or getting a fcanty pittance of meat and cloathing.

The leafes of farms are nineteen years. The fuccceding tenants generally find the
ground little better than a cjput mortuun: ; and for this realon, fhould thoy at the ex-
piration of the leafe leave the lands in a good (late, fome avaricious neighbours would
have the preference in the next letting, by oiFcring a price more th in the perfon who
had expended part of his fubftance in enriching the farm could poflibly do. This in.
duces them to leave it in the original flate.

The method of letting a farm is very fingular : each is commonly poflefTed by a
number of fmall tenants ; thus a farm of forty pounds a year is occupied by eighteen
diflerent people, who by their leafes are bound, conjunftly and feverally, for the pay-
ment of the rent to the proprietor. Thefe live in the farm in houfes cluflered together,
fo that each farm appears like a little village. The tenants annually di\i.le the arable
land by lot ; each has his rids;e of land, to which he puts his mark, fuch as he would
do to any writing ; and this fpecies of farm is called run-rig, i. c. ridc;o. They join in
ploughing : every one keeps a horfe or more ; and the number of thofe animals con-
Aime fo much corn as often to occafion a fcarciry ; the corn and peas raifed bdng (much
of it) defigned for their fubfiftence, and that of the cattle, during the long winter. The
pafture and moor-land annexed to the farm is common to all the pofieiTors.

All the farms are open. Inclofures of any form, except in two or three places, are

J|uite unknown : fo that there nudt be a great lofs of time in preferving their corn, &c.
rom trefpafs. The ufual manure is fea plants, coral, aFid fliells.

The run-rig farms are now difcouraged j but fince the tenements are fet by roup, or
audion, and advanced by an unnatural force to above double the old rent, without any
allowance for inclofing ; any example fet in agriculture ; any fecurity of tenure, by
lengthening xhi leafes, afl'airs will turn retrograde, and the firms relapfe into their u'd
Itate of rudenefs ; migration will increafe (for it has begun), and the rents be reduced
even below their former value : the late rent? were fcarce twelve hundred a year ; the
expected rents three thoufand.

The produce of the ifland is oats, of which about five thoufand bolls, each equal to
nine Winchcder buflieir, are fown : five hundred of beans, a few p-as, and above a
thoufand bolls of potatoes, are amitrallv fet ; notwithftanding tiiis, five hundred bolls of
cat-meal are annuaily imported to fubfii'l the natives.

The live Hock of the ifland is 3 183 milch cows j 2000 cattle, from one to three years
old ; 1058 horfes ; 1500 (heep ; and 500 goats ; many of the two laft are killed at
Michat-lmas, and dritd for winter provifion, or fold at Greenock. The catt'e are fold
from frriy to fifty {hillings per head, which brings into the ifland about 1 200I. p r annum :
1 think that the fale of horfes alfo brings in about 300I. Hogs were introduced here
only two years ago. The herring-fifliery round the illand brings in 300I. ; tlie lale uf
hcrring-ncts> tool, j and tiiat ot thread about 300I., for a good deal of fla.K k fown

8 h-i...

;',,

PENNANfS SECOND TOUR INT SCOTLAMD.

25l

here. Thefo are the exports of rlie ifland ; but the money that goes out for mere ne-
coflarics is a nu l.mcholy drawback.

I he woiueri manutadurc the wool for the cloathiiig of their families; they fet the
potatoes, and Jrefs and fpin the flax : they make butter for exportation, and chcefc for
their own iil't*.

The iniiahitants in general are foher, religions, and induftrioiis : great part of the
fiinnncr is cinployi-d in getting peat lor fuel, the only kind in ufe h.'re ; or in building
or repairing their houl'es, for the badnefs of the materials requires annual repairs: be-
fore and after harvell they are bulled in the heiring-fifliery ; and during winter the men
make their hening-nets ; while the women are employed in fpinning their linen and
woollen yarn. Tlie light they often ufe is that of lamps. From the beginning of
February to the end of May, if the weather permits, they are engaged in labouring
their ground : in autumn they burn a great quantity of fern to make kelp : fo that,
excepting at new-year's-day, at marriages, or at the two or three fairs in the ifland,
they have no leifure for any amufements j no wonder is there then at their deprefllon
of fpirits.

This forms part of the county of Bute, and is fubjeft to the fame fort of government :
but befides, juitice is adminillered at the baron's baily-court, who has power to fine as
high as twenty fliillings ; can decide in matters of property, not exceeding forty fliil-
hngs ; can iinprifon for a month : and put Jelinquents into the flocks for three hours,
but that only during day time.

June 2 2. Take a ride into the country : defcend into the valley at the head of the
bay ; fertile in barley, oats, and peas. See two great flones, in form of columns, fet
ereft, but quite rude i thefe are common to many nations ; are frequent in North
Wales, where they are called Main-hirion, i. e. tall Hones, Meini-gwir, or men pillars,
and Lleche : are frtquent in Cornwall, and are alfo found in other parts of our ifland :
their ufe is of great antiquity ; are mentioned in the Mofaic writings as memorials of
the dead, as monuments ot friendfliip, as marks to diflinguifli p' ■ • s of worfhip, or of
folemn aflcmblics *. The northern natic i erected them to perpei;"^te the memory of
great anions, luch as remarkable due'.'j ; of which there are proofs b/'. '^ Denmark
and in Scotland ; and the number of (tones was propcmionable to the lu: • ler of great
men who fell in the fight f: but they wer" befides erected merely as fepulchral for per-
fons of rank J, who deferved well of their country.

Not far from hence is a Hone, the iv (t fincular that I ever remember to havefeen,
and the only one of the kind that ever fell within my obfervati- n : this lies on the ground,
is twelve feet long, two broad, one thick ; has t one end the rude attempt to carve a
h(.ad and (hoiikler-, and was certainly the firft deviation from the former fpecies of
monument ; the firlt eil'ay to give to (lone a refemblance to the human body. All
that the native, fay of this, that it was placed over a giant, and is called Mac Bhrolchin's
ilone.

Afccnd a deep hill, with vaft gullies on the fide ; and, on fj. ' . • 'Hg, arrive in a
plain inhabited bv curlews, reloriiiiii; tliere to breed, and which .:.;.¥ ioim I our hjad?
like lapwings. At a place called Mi>ni quil is afmall circle of fmall flones, placed clofe
to each other : whether a little druidical place of worfliip, or of alleiiibly ; or whether

• Jnftiiia, xkIv. ?6.

f VVi>rmii iv'lonum. Dan. 6z, 63. BoethiuSj Scot. Tiifc. et Rccentcs Mores, 10.

I llil' '^cot. 20.

a family

1 ff-i'^JllW'

■■•'11' ■■■I* '.' n

i'lj

. , 1

iGz

I'fcNNANTS PtCOND TOUR IN UCoTI.AND.

•r

a family place of fcpulturc, as \i ufiial • with ihe nortlu'rn nations, is not cafy to dc
fcrmine. If an um is found in the CLiitro of this coronet, as is no< uncoainion, the
doubt will cciife.

Pafs by the river Muchnii, fluwintj tlirouirh a rocky ch.innel, wiiich, in one part has
worn through a rock, and left lb coiitr.ictod a j^-.p at the top as to fi.rm a very ealy
flop a-crofs. Yet not lonq; ago a poor woman in the attempt, after jrcitiiig one foot
over, was Ifruek with ftich horror at tlic? treri'T; 1 ■• t i,v<iit ueneitli, that Ih;.' remain. 'd
for fome hours in that attirudo, not darinjf r) dh. , i ■■ oiiier foot over, till Ibnie hinJ
pail'engcr luckily came by, and alliiled Iki out'>» her dillrefs.

Arrive at I'ormore, an cxtenlive jil lin of ^ood Rrouiid, but quite in a ftate of na-
ture: feems formerly to h.iVe boen cult!\at^d, for there ai)pear feveral ve(U;4es of dikes,
which mij^ht have fervcd uS houmlaries. Ihere is a tradition that in old tinus th?
(liores were covered with wooils ; and tlrs was tiie habitable part.

The want of trees in the intenud part at prefent, and the 1.: i." 'aimer in which
they grow about lirodie, favour this opinion.

On this plain are the remains of four circles, in a hue, extending N. K. by S W. ;
very few Hones are Handing to pcrfcd tiie indolure, but thofe are of a great lize ; and
(land remote from each othc. One is fifteen feet high and eleven in tircumt^ rence.
On the outfide of thcfe circl" are two others: <ine diill-rs from all I have feen, con-
filling of a double circle of I' ones and a mound within the lelfer. Near ihefe are the
rcliques of a (tone che(:, iormed of five llat (tones, the length of two yards iu
the infide : the lid or top is loll. In the middle of thefe repofitorios was placid the
urn rdled with the allies of the dead to prevent its b;iiig bioken ; or to keep the earth
from mixing with the burnt remains. In ail probability there had been a cairn or heap
of flones aixnc.

By the number of the circles ; and by their fjqueRred Jituntion, titis feems to have
been iacred ground. Tlier* circles were formed for religious purpolis; Boeihius re-
lates, that MainuR, fon of Fergus I. a reflorer and cultivator of religion alter the
Egyptian manner (as he calls it) inftituted feveral new and folemn ceremonies : and
caui'cd great Rones to be placed i!\ form of a circ.'^; ; tiie I "rj^eit w;v> lituate I tow iirds the
fouth, and ferved as an altar for the facrificrs to the iinmorlal gou,- |. lioethius is right
in part of his account : but the objecl of the worlhip \s.is the Am |, and what con-
firms thi5^, is the fituation of the aliar pointed towards that luminary in his meridian
glory. In this place the altar ami many of the (loncs tire loll : probably carried to
build houfes and dikes not very remote from the place.

At a fmall diftance farther is a cairn of a moil liupcndou: f;?.?, formed of great
pebbles : which are prefervetl from being Vifrercd r'oout by i circle vi large (loncs,
that furround the whole bale : a tircumfl.nicc ilmctimcs iifual in ih.le monumental
heaps §.

Delcend through a narrow cleft of a rock io a put of tlv weflcrn flnre called
Drum-an-duin, o" the ri. ,f? of the fort, from a round tower ihat Hands abjve. 'liu*
beach is hounded by clilTs of whitKh grit il me, holl.v.\d boni ati. into vail caves. The
moll remarkable are thofe of Hn-mac-cuil, ur l'in.,al, the fon o! t'umhal, ilie father of

in !" itlbci^j's Surcia Hodionii
rtf J Hi t..b. :.'^c, 2 51. 315.

• Olaus Magnus, lib. t. e. '.6. Varionr ciiclci rf ilii'« fnturc a-r 'n
ft Anliqii.i, tab, 104. Othti very curioui am quii'i^ fitnilir 10 iln.li
32;. nnii 32s.

•f l)i>itliiu(, lib. II. p. 15. * D(if\i)r M.-icpiicrfjii, ji. ^j^.and M- Macpbcrfon, ji 162.

^ BorUfc Aiitiq. Corn V -ill, tab. Xiii. Jig. 4.

O.Tian,

I'ENNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND. 2^3

Oflim, who, tnidition fays, reii I in this ifland for the fake of hunfincj. One of
thclc caverns is a hundred and tw ivefeet long, and thirty hij^h, narrowing to thu top
like a G'thic arch ; towards the end it branches into twt) : wihin thcfe t.vo recelies,
which penetiaie x'ar, jure en e:!ch fide fevcral fniall holi s, oppofite to each other: in
thefo were placed 'M'lverfe b ams, that held the pots in which the heroes feetheil their
vcnlfon ; or i)rubahly, according to th.' ni(jd^" of the times, the bags* to. m d of the fkins
of aniniahi fliiin ii\ the chace, which were Idl d with fljfti, and ferved as k ttles futfi-
cicntly itn^i^ to warm the contents ; fi)r the heroes of old devoured their meat hJf
raw t, holding, that the juices contained the bed nourifhment.

On the front of the divifion between thefe receffes, and on one fide, are various very
rude fij^urcs, cut on the Hone, of men, of animals, and of a clymore or two-handed
fword : but whether thefe were the amufements of the Fingallian age, or of after times,
is n<it eafy to be al'certained ; for caves were the- retreats of pir.'.tos as well as hero 3.
Here are fevcral other hollows adjacent, which are ftiewn as the liable, cellars a:id
dog-ki nnel of the great Maccuil : one cave, which is not honoured with a name, is
remarkably fine, of great extent, covered with a beautil'ul flat roof, and very well
lighted by two augult arches at each end : through one is a fine perfpective ot the pro-
montory Carn-baan, or the whit .' heap of (tones whofc fide exhibits a long range of
columnar rocks (not bafaltic) of hard grey whin (lone, relting on a horizontal ilra-
tum of red ftone : at the extremity one of the columns is infulated, and forms a hue
obeli fk.

After riding fome time along the fliore, afcend the promontory : on the fummit is an
ancienf retreat, fecured on the land fide by a great dike of loofe (loms, that inclofes the
acceinble part ; within is a fingle flone, fet erect ; perhaps to mark the fpot where the
chieftain held his council, or from whence he delivered his orders.

From this fione is a fine view of Cantyre^ the wellern fide of Arran, being feparated
from it by a ftrait about eight miles wide.

Leave I le hills, and fee at Feorling another ftupendous cairn, a hundred and four-
teen feet over, and of a vail height ; and from two of the oppofite iides are two vail
ridges ; the whole formed of rounded Hones, or pebbles, brought from the fliores.
Thel'o immcnfe accumulations of Hones are the fepulchral protedions of the heroes
among the ancient natives of our illands : the (lone-chell, the repofitory of the urns and
allies, are lodged in the earth beneath ; fometimes one, fometimes more, are found thus
dcp'ifited ; and I have one indance of as many as ieventeen of thefe Hone chcHs being dif-
cov'i'^d under the fame cairn. The learned have aliii^ned other caufes for tliefe heaps
of Hones ; have fuppol'ed them to have been, in times of inauguration, the places
where the chieftian eitd Hood to Ihcw himlelfto the bell advantange to the people ; or
the place from whence judgment was pronounced; i-r to have been erected on the
road fide in honour of iViercury ; or to have been formed in memory ol fome folemn
compad \. Thefe might have been the real'ons, in fom..' i^Jlances, wliere the evidences
of Hone chcfts and urns are wanting ; but thofe generally are found to overthr v.v all
other I'yilems.

Thefe piles may be juHly fuppofed to have been proportioned in fize to the rank of
the perlon, or to his popularity : the people of a whole diitrict allembled to fliew their
relpeck to the decealed, and, by an active lionouring of his memory, foon accumulat.Hl
heaps equal to thole that allonifh us at this lime. But thefe honours wore not merely
thofe cf the day ; as long as the memory of the deceal'ed exiikd, not a paflenger wtuit

• Maji.r, 111). V. J), jry. -j- [loelliius Mor<.s Scot. It.

I Vijc Kowkuii's Myn. Ait. 50. Boil. ft Aiui^. (Joriiwall, 2oy.

I'll

fit!

, I'

' < ,

:64 PfNNANT'j iECOND ToUR IN SCOTLAND.

by without ■.iJdiiii^ a floiu-' to the heap : they fuppofcJ it wouKl be an honour to ihj
lieaJ, and aocc'|)tablt' to his nuncs.

Quinqn.tm fcfliiiaa, nnn eft inor,i loiiga : liccliit
IiijcAo ter pulvcrc, currai.

To this moment there is a provcrhini oxpivflion amonp; thi- Tlighlandors alhidvc to
the T Id )Madico: a fupjjliant will tell his patron, " C'lirri mi doch er do chariic '," I
will add a llone to your cairn, meaning, when you are no mure I will do all pollible
hor.our to your memory.

'I htnv was atiotli'T fpccion of honour paid to the chieftains, that I believe is Hill re-
taincil ill this idaiid, but the nafon is quite loll : that of fweaiinjv by his name, and pay-
ing as ^reat a refp;Cl to that as to the mofl f,i r'>d oath "f : a familiar one in Arran is,
by Nail : it is at prcleut unintelligible, yet is lulpcclcd to have been the lumo of lomc
ancient hero.

llu'le cairns are to be found in all parts of our idands, in Cornwall, Wale-?, and all
parts ol' Norih Britain; they ere in ufe among the northern nations ; Dahlberg, in
his 323d plate has iiivi-n the figure of one. In Wales they are called Carneddau ; lait
the proverb taken from them, with u^ is not of the complimeiital kind : " Kara ar dy
ben," or, a cairn on yi)ur lie-ul is a token of imprecati-.n.

Dine at Skeddag, a fmall hamlet : after dinner, on the road fide, fee, in Shifkin or
iScafgaiii chuivli yard, a tomb Hone called that of St. Maol Jo;;, that is, the fervant of
Jisi's. The flint is reprefeiiteJ in the habit of a pri-fl, with a chalice in his han.ls,
and a crofier by him : the Hone was broken al)oiit half year ago by fome facrilegious
fellow, in fearch of treafure ; Inir an iflaiuler, who iK>od by, alhired me, that the at-
tempt did not go unpmiiihid, for loon afur the aud.icious wretch was vifited with a
bro' en L'g.

Sr. IMacd-Jos was a companion of St. Cnhimba : the lall cliofe Jona for the place of
his refidcnce ; this f..int fixed on the little illand of Lamladi, and officiated by turns at
Shifkin, where he died at the age of a hundred, and was there interred.

In thi' evening's ride pafs by fome farms, the only cultivated trad in the internal
parts of the country : law one of forty pounds a year, which had fixty acres of arable
land annexed to it. Am iinfornicd thai the general fize or value of farms was eight or
nine pounds a year.

Return to Brodic caOIe.

June 23. 'I'ake a ride to vifit other parts of the ifland : go through the village
of Brcdie, at a fmall diilance beneath the tallle. Vilit Glencloy, a plain, on whi.:h are
five earthen tumuli, or barrows, placed in a row, with another on the outfide of them :
on the top of one is a dvprelTioii, or hollow ; on that of another is a circle of Hones,
whofe ends juH appear above the earth. 'Ihefe are probably the memorial of fume
battle : the common nu'ii were placed beneath the plain barrows ; the leaders under
thofe ili:!ingui|]Kd by trie Hones.

Pafs by the ruins of Kirk-michel chapel : vifit Mr. Fullerton, defcenJed from the
Mac- Lcv.is, ori'^iiially a French family, but fettled in this illand near leven hundred
years. He is one ol thj l-^ffer proprietors of this iiland : his farm is neat, well culti-
vated, and iiictole.l with very thriving hedges. Robert Bruce, out of gratitude for
the pr.iteclion he received from this genilenum's anceltor, Fergus Fullerton, gave
him a charter dated at Arnele, Nov. 26, in the 2d year of his reign, for the lauds of
Killmicht-l and Ar) uhunyne, or Straiih-oughlian, which are Hill in the family.

• Luaor Matphcrfou, 3i(j. | Bocthiui, lib. i.p 4.

A mile

i,\:

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

«''5

AmWc fiirther is a retreat of tlie ancient Inhabi'aTits, called TDrr-nn-fcIiiin cadi",
furroimJcd with a great Ibue dike. Mere Robert IJruce Ihellercil liimleU' for fotuti
lime, under the proteftinn of Mai -Louis.

Two miles farther «':i(l, near thetiip c\' aproatlhll Dunfuin, on tlie brow, is a groat
Hratuni of moll fingul.w (tone, of a dull black-grein c:ill, fiiMotlj y,U>lXy furface, lha(-
tery in itscompolitioii, femi-tranfparent, in fniall pieces, and of ;i moll viin:ouH app'.'ar-
ance : it fometimes breaks into f(;rms rallur re,7nhir, and like tiiofe of tint fpecies called
Ireland cryllal ; but cannot be reduced ;o that tl.U i, as it (Iriki s fire with llei I, and re-
fufes to ferment with acids. Some pieces, more niaiure, bre?k like pjafs ; tuliiehit
feems an imperfed fpecies, lefs pure than the Iceland agate *, and like that to have
been thecfl'td of a volcano. ,

The other foflil produdions of this ifland, that I had an opportunity of feeing, were,

An iron ore. Bolus martialis, Cronfled, fee. 87, 207.

A mofl ponderous white !par, in all probability containing lead, found near Sanno.x.

The (lone called Breccia quartzofa, Cronded, fed. 2y^,

Schidus ardcfiaof Linnaeus, p. 38. No. 5. A fine fmooth black kind of (late.

Granites durus grifeus of Cronfled, fed. 270, No. c6. Like our Cornifh moor-
flone, but the particles finer.

Very fine and large black cryflals, that would be ufoful to feal-cutters and lapidaries.

Great variety of beautiful Sardonyxes : and other beautiful Hones indifcriminately
called Scotch pebbles.

A coal-mine has formerly been worked near the Cock of Arran, at the N. end of tlie
ifland. The coal had all the qualities of that of Kilkenny, and might prove of the ut-
mofl benefit to this country, was the work purfu -d ; not only as it might prove the
means of reftoring the falt-pans, which tonnerly tlourilhcJ here, but be of the utmoll
benefit to agriculture, in burning the lime-llone wivcli ahouiuls in many parts.

In the courfe of my ride, on the other fid-.- of the hill of Dunfuin, facing the bay of
Lamlafli, faw, on the road fide a cairn, of a ditVerent kind to what I had feen before:
it was large, of an oblong form, and compofed like the others of round Itoncs : bur
along the top was a ftries of cells, fome entire, but many fallen in : each was covered
with a fingle flat (lone of a great fize, reding on others upright, that fcrved as fupp "ts ;
but I could not count them by reafon of the lapfe of the lefl'tr dones. Dodor 7 .a'c
fays, that in Cornwall the number of upright (tones arc three; but in W;Me4i ib- •
fometimes exceed that number.

Thefe cells are called in Wales, Cromleh and C'cd va en or done cheds : ; Vi jpokc;
of largely by Mr. Rowland f, and by Dodor Borlafe, J, and by Wornii<'s ' . Mi, 1
the name of Ara, or altar: the Hrd is divided in his opinion, for he par'iy liu •■
the notion of their having been altars, partly to their having been fepu!.-hrt;>
pofes them to have been originally tomb?, but that in after-times facrifices wcr^ pei-
formed on them to the heroes depofited in them : but there can be doubt of tlie former.
Mr. Keyfler prcferves an account of King Harold having been interred beneath a tomb
of this kind in Denmark : but Mr. Wright difcovered in Ireland a flieleton depofited be-
neath one of thefe Cromleh |]. The great fimi'arity of the monuments throughout the
north, evinces the famenefs of religion to have been fpread in every part, perhaps with
fome flight deviations. Many of thefe monuments arc both Britilh andDanilh ; for we
find them where the Danes never penetrated. It mud not be forgotten, that at one end

«.'

■my

* Pumcx vitreus, Lin. fyft. iii. 182.
§ 105. II Louthiana.

VOL. in.

t 48.

tai3, &c.

M M

■t'4

1#%'% J

;/i

w^r^

2C6

pennant's second tour lit SCOTLAND.

'I;
il

St.-

f|:

of the cairn in quoflion are fevcral great floncs, fonie extending beyond the cairn ; and
on one fide is a large ercd Itone, [perhaps an i)bjeft of worfliip.

Return near the lliore at tlie litatl of Brodic bay, and lee a vail ftratum of coral and
fliells, the gift of the fta fome ages ago, fonic part being covered with peat.

June 2 4. In the afternoon leave Ihodic caftle, crofs a hill, defcend by the village of
Kilbride, and reach the harbour of Lmnlalh, where our v^ffel lay at anchor in the fafeft
port in the uuiverfe, a port perfectly Virgiiian :

Hie inli;la juntiim
Fffivit objcdu b'tTum.

a beautiful fcniiUuiar bay forms one part : while the lofty illand of Lamlafli extending
belore the mouth llrcurcs it from the ea'l; winds : leaving on each fide a lafe and eafy
cntr.nice. 'I'iie whole circumfcnnce b i.bout nine mili.'S ; and the depth of the water is
fufiicicnt for the largcit fliips. 'Ihis is a place of quarantine : at this time three nier.
chantmea belonging to Glafgow lay here lor that purpofc, each with the guard boat
altern.

In the bottom of tlie hay was a fine circular bafin or pier now in ruins ; the work of
the good Diitchel's of Hamilton.

Land on the iiland of Lamlafli, a v;ifl mountain in great part covered with heath ; but
has a fiiificient pallure and aiable land to feed a few milch ci.a\s, fheep and goats, and to
raifc a little corn and a few potatoes.

Ill the year 155^, the Englifh fleet under the Eiyl of Suffex, after ravaging thecoaft
of Cantyrc, at that time in poilclUon of James Mac-comel, landed in this bay, and
burned ami deftroycd all the neighbouring country : proceeded afterwards to Cumray,
and treated it in the fame manner.

Buchanan gives tliis the Latiii name of Molas and MolalTa, from its having been the
retreat of St. Maol-jos : for the fame r^afon it is called the holy ifland, and Htllan
Leneow •, or that of Saints, and fometimes Ard-na-molas. St. Maol-jos's cave, the
relidence of that holy man, his well of moll falutary water, a place for bathing, his
chair, and the ruins of his chapel arc (liewn tj llrangers ; but the walk is far from
agreeable, as the illand is greatly inlellcd with vipers.

'1 he Dean of the illes li'vs, that on tliis ille of Molas was foundit by John Lord of
the illes ane Monailry of Friars which is decayit. But notwithllanding this, it contri-
buted largely to the i'upport of others on the main-luul. Thus Lamlalh and the lands
round the bay ; and tliole from Corry to Loch-ranza, were annexed to the abbey of
Kil-whinnin. And ihofe of Shilkin, Kilmore, Torelin, and Benans to that of Sandale
orSadile. in Cantyre. I imagine that 1 mult have leen the fite of it frot;i the top of
Cam baan : therefore take the liberty of mentioning it as having been a convent of
Cidercians, founded by Reginaldus, fun of Somcrled, lord of the ifles : the lame
Somcrkd who was flain near Renfrew in 1164. Here was alfo a caiUe l;i longing to
the futcellors of th.at petty princv ; whole owner Angus, lord of the iilfs, gave protec-
tion during his dillrelks to Robert Bruce.

June 25. Weighed anchor :A lialf an hour pall one in the n.orning, and gdng
through the fouth pi.flaue of the har.'.our, j-.t )nto the middle of the Firth. Have a
niHgi.iticent view on ail luks oi ,\rran ar ' Lamafli, and the coafl of C>ir.iyrc on one
fuk; ; Jinii of the coads of C'unningliain and (.'arrick on the other. In front hr the
lulls of Gallo\^ay and the c^ail of Ireiand ; and the vail crag of Ailla, app'jaring here

• forduii. Ub, ii. c. 10.

li'ie

■

PENNANT S Sr.COND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

i6-

like an lucllncil h:iy-cock, rofe in t!ie miilll of the channel. In our courfe leave to
the wed the little and low ifland of I'iada, oppofito, and as if rent fi'ona that of Arran,
a ciicumftanco the name from bladhan, to break, feems to import.

After a very tedious calm reach the crarr of Ailfa, and anclior on the N. E. within
fdty yards of the fide in twelve fathom wale, gravelly bottom. On this fide is a
iinall beach, all the reft is a perpendicular ruck for an ama^:ing height, but from the
edges of the precipice, the mountain alfumes a pyramidal form ; tlie whole circum-
ference of t'le bafe is two miles. On the call fide is a ltup;rndous and amazing af-
femblage of precipitous columnar rocks of great lieiglu riling in wild feiics one above
the other ; beneath thefe, amidft the ruins that had talien from time to tiuie, are groves
of elder trees, the only trees of the j^lace : the Hoping furface being almoft entirely
CO ed with fern and (hort grafs. The quadrupeds that inhabit th.is rock are ^oats
anu rabbits ; the birds that neftle in the precijiices arc numerous as fwarms of bees,
and not unlike them in their flight to and from the crag. On the verge of the preci-
pice dwell the gannets and the Ihags. Beneath are guillemots, and tiie razor-bills,
and under them the grey gulls and kittiwaks, helped by their cry to fdl the deafen-
ing chorus. The pulRns made themfelves burroughs above, the fca pies found a
fcanty place for their eggs near the b:ifo. Some land birds made this their haunt :
among them ravens, hooded crows, pigeons, wheat-ears and rock-larks; and, what is
woj.dcrful, throfllcs exerted the fame melody in this fcene of horror as they do in the
groves of Hertfordihire>

Three reptiles appearetl here very unexpeftedly : the naked black fnail, the ccrni.
mon and the (Iviped (hell fnail ; not volunteer inhabitants, but probably brought in
the i'alads of fome vifitants from the neighbouring ihores.

'1 his rock is the property of the Karl of C'alhis, who rents it for 33I. per ann. to
pcoj.le who come hero to take the young gannets i'or the table, and the other birds for
the fake of their feathers. The lalt are caup^ht when the young birds ;.re ready for
their flight. The fowler afconds the rocks v.ith great hazard, is provided with a long
rod, fnrniflied at the end v.'ith a fliort h.iir line with a running nooi'e. This he flings
I'ound the neck of the bird, hawls it up, and repeats it till lie takes ten or twelve
dozen in an evening *.

Land on the beach, and t'md t\v ruins of a chap.>l, and the velliges of places inha-
bited by lilhermen who relort her.' during the lealon for the capture of cod, which
abound here from January to April, on the great bank, which begins a little fouth of
Arran, pall'es this rock, and extends three h>agues beyond. Tlu; filh are taken with
long linrs, very little dilFerent fiom thofe deferibed in the third volume of tlu; Br.
Zoology : a repetition is unnecoflary ; the h(h are dried and then faked, but there are
feldom fullicient caught for foreign exportation.

With much dilliculty afcend to the callle, a fquaro tower of ihree luirii's, each
vaulted, placed pretty high on this only accediljle p.irr ot the rock. The path is nar- •
row, over a vail (lope, fo ambiguous that ii wants but little of a true precipice : the
walk is horrible, ti)r the deptli is alarming. It woidd have been thought that nothing
!)ut an eagle would have fixed his habitation herej and probably it was fome cliieftaui
not Kfs an ai.inuil of rapine. The only m.n-k of civiiiz ition 1 law in the callle was an
oven; a eonveniency wtiieli many parts of No)'h Britain are yet llrangers to.

In I ^()7 on" B irelav of I.adyland undertook the romantic defign of polUlli.ig him-
felf of this rock, and of iortifying it tor t!te I'ervice of the Spaniardo. lie arrived there

) ! i

* I c:iiiui)t learn where i'kII- RmUicvs are ufcd.
M M C

with

X ■ t' '.!■

268

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

j - ■

with iR few afTiftants, as he imagined, undifcovcretl ; but one day walking alone on the
bcncii, he unexpetledly cncounterod Mr. John Knox, who was fent to apprehend him ;
and the moment he <"aw the untriendly party, in delpair, he rufliod into the fea, and
put an end to his exiltence *.

Made a hearty dinner under the {hade of the caftle, and even at that height pro-
cured fine water from a fpring within a hundred yards of the place. The view of tl>c
bay of Girvan in Carrick, within nine miles, and that of Campbeltown, about twenty-
two, bounde.l each fide of the Firth.

The vvc:ither was fo hot that we did not afcend to the fummit, which is faid to be
broad, and to have had on it a fmall chapel, defigned (as is frequent on the promon-
tories of foreign Ihores) for the devout feaman to otfer up his prayer, of iiipplication
for a fafc voyage, or of gratitude for a fafe return.

In the eveniPLf return on board, and llecr towards Campbeltown, but make vefy
little way, by reafon of the ftilhiefs of the night.

June 26. In the morning find ourfelves within nine miles of the town, having to the
fouth (near the end of Cantyre) Sanda, or Avoyn, or illand of harbours f, fo called
from its being the llation of theDaiiilh fleets, while that nation p(jircirL\l the Ilchridcs ;
a high ifland, about two miles long, inhabited by four families. InFordun's time here
was the chapel of St. Annian, and a fanduary for the refuge of criminal J. Near it is
Sheep ifland ; and a mile to the eall lies Peterlbn's rock, dreaded by mariners. The
Mull, or extremity of Cantyre, lies at a lm;dl didance beyond this groupe.

Dircd Mr. Thomplon to carry the vtfTel round tlie Mull, and to wait under the
the iile of Gigha. Take the boat, and make fer Campbeltown ; after feven miles
reach the mouth of the h:irbour, crolfed by a finall and high iiland, with a deep but
narrrow pafiagc on one fiue ; on the other, connected to the land by a beach, dry at
the cl.ib of the tides, and fb imv, that Ifrange fhips, milfaking the entrance, fbmetimes
run on fltore. The harbour widens to a very conliderable extent, is two miles in length,
and of a confidcrable depth of water, even clofe to the town, which Hls at the bottom.

Campbeltown is now a very confiderable place, having rifen from a petty fifliing
town to its prefent flourifliing (late in lefs than thirty years. About the year 1/44 it
had only two or three finall veflels belonging to the port ; at prefent there are feventy-
eight fail, from tv.tnty to eighty tons burthen, all built for and e.'npK yed in t!ie hcrriiig-
lilherv, and aoout eight hundred faiiors are employed to man them. '1 his town in"
ho. was ercattd by the tiihery, for it was appointed the [dace of rendezvous [\>i- the
buffes ; two hundred and fixty have been fecn in the harbour at once, but their num-
ber declines fince the ill payment of the bounty. I do nut know the gradual increule
of the inhabitants here, but it is computed that tlure are leven ihouiand iii the town
and parilh. 'I'wo ininilters ofiiciate, befides another for the chur^'i vi' the lecedcrs,
called the Relief-houi'e. '1 his is a remarkable neat building, and quiie fhauus that of
the elLiblinied church ; was railed by a vohuiia'. y lubfcription vl 2\oo\. collected
chiefly among the pofterity of opprelTed natives of i.he l.ou lands, ciicfaiiMged to fettle
here fin times of periecuiion^ by tlie Argyle family, lli-le Hill L-eji them:i.lves itif-
UntX from the old inhabitant>, retain the z.'al cjf their anceliois are obliinately avert'c
to patronag'', but are elleemed the moll: indidtrious people in t!ie countiy.

'1 he antieiit name uf this place was ('ean-loch-ehiile Li u-aiu, or the end of ihe loch
of St. Ktrran, a faint of tlie neighbourhood. Ihe country of which it is i..c caj ..■-

* '^pol:f.v(ii)il\ 1 lill of ^C'lt J) 4)63111)4,7.

f liiichuMian, lii>. i. 35. Tlic ;U:iii of ilic illcs c,-l!i ii Avoji', fia iht r.riiucs uf Diiimr' k ., .'. . . :i
lti(!, Iluvir. I luiJuii, lib, ii. e. i_.

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND. 269

is Cantyre, the mofl fouthern part of Argylefliire ; derived from Ceann, a head and
tire of the land ; was the country of the Epidii of the Romans, and the extremity, the
Epidii promontorium, now the Mull of Cantyre^ noted for the violence of the adverfe
tides, compared to the force of a mill-race, from whence the modern name. Magnus
the Barefooted made a conqueft of it, and added it to the Hebrides, making an ifland
of it by the ratio ultima regum. Tortitus fays, that the antient name was Saltiria, or
Satiria, perhaps Norwegian *.

This peninfula, from the Tarbat to the Mull, is abov^e forty miles long, and from
five to twelve miles broad : is hilly, but, comparative to other parts, cannot be called
mountainous j is open and in general naked, but near Campbeltown are fome thriving
plantations. The country is at prefent a mixture of heath and arable land ; the land is
good, capable of bearing wheat, but little is raifed for want of mills to grind it j either
the inhabitants buy their flower from England, or fend the grain they have to be ground
in the fhire of Ayr. Much bear is fown here, great quantities of potatoes raifed, and
near 800I. worth annually exported. Numbers of black cattle are reared, but
chiefly killed at home, and failed for the ufe of the bufles at Campbeltown. Much
butter and cheefe is made ; the laft large and bad. There are befides flieep and goats;
the laft killed for winter proviiion.

Notwithftanding the quantity of bear raifed, there is often a fort of dearth : the
inhabitants being mad enough to convert their bread into poifon, diftilling annually
fix thoufand bolls of grain into whifky. This fcems a modern liquor, for in old
times the didillation was from thyme, mint, anife f, and other fragrant herbs, and ale
was much in ufe with them. The former had the fame name with the ufquebaugh,
or water of life ; but by Boethius' account, it was taken with moderation.

The Duke of Argyle, the principal proprietor of this country, takes great pains in
difcouraging the pernicious practice ; and obliges all his tenants to enter into articles, to
forfeit five pounds and the flill, in cafe they are deteded in making this liqueur d'en/er'y
but the trade is fo profitable that many perfift in it, to the great negleil of manufac-
tures. Before this bufinofs got ground, the women were accuftomcd to fpin a great
deal of yarn (for much flax is railed in thefe parts) but at prefent they employ them-
ftlvcs in diftilling, while their hiilbands are in ihi.' lielJ.

Rural economy is but at a low ebb here : his Grace does all in his power to promote
that moft iifefiil of arts, by giving a certain nun^bcr of bolls of burnt lime to thofe
who can fticw the largtft and beft fallow ; and allowing ten per cent, out of the rents
to fiich fanners who layout any money in folid improvements; for example, in in-
clofing, and the liko. 1 he Duke alio fliew.s nmch humanity in another inftance, by
permitting his tenants, In the places of hi eitates where Hags inhabit, to deftroy them
with impunity ; rcfi^ning that part of the antient chieftain's magnificence, rather than
beafts of chace Ihoul-l wafte the bread ot the poor.

Cantyre was granted to the lioul'e of Argyle after a fupprelFion of a rebellion of the
Mac-donalds cl the iiles (and 1 iuppofe of this peninfula) in the beginning of the laft
ctntuiy |, and the grant was afterwards ratified by parliament §. The antient inhabi-
tants were the Mac-d(maIJs, M;ic-eachrans, Mac-kays, and Mao-maths.

June 27. Take a ride along the weft fide of the bay. Sec, in Kilkerran church-
yard, feveral tombs of ariitieers, witli the inilruments of tlieir trades engraven: amoagft
others appear a go^ie and lliears, to denote that a tavlor lay betieath. A little fur-
ther on the Ihorc are the ruins of Kilkerran cailL-, built by James V. when he vifitcd

• 'r.Hf'xi.is, 73. I' IVniliiua lie Morlbus Scot. ti.

X Dr. Uiogtaj^liy, ii, 1141. «) Ct,.wU,nrj I'magc, 19.

this

^•1

■'■^'*f^ I

■'ll

■fs

270

PF.NNANT's second TOUa IN SCOTLAND.

this place in order to quell a rebellion : he was obliged to fly to it for protcflion, and,
as is iaid, to abandon it to the fury of the infiirgeats, who took the fortrois, and hung
his governor.

Turn to the fouth, and vifit fome caves in the rocks that face the Firth : thcfi.' are
very magnificent, and very various ; the tops arc loft v, and refomblo (Gothic arcliivs ;
one has on all fides a range of natural foats, another is in form of a crofs, witli tliree
fine Gothic porticos, for entrrnces; tliis had been tlie rofidoncc of St. Ivcrran, had
formerly a wall at the entranci , a fccond about the niiiUlle, and a third far up, form-
ing different apartments. On the iloor is the capital of a crofs, and a round bafoii,
cut out of the rock, full of fine watiT, the be\crage of the faint in old times, and oi
failors in the prefent, who often land to drefs their victuals beneath this flidter. An
anticnt pair, upwards of feventy years of age, once made this llu'ir habitation for a
confiderable time.

Rfturn ; view the crofs in the middle of the town : a mofl beautiful pillar, riclily
ornamented with foliage, and with this infcription on one fide ; lUc . c// : crux : Do-
mini : I'vari : M : H : Eachyrna . qtnncLim : Rccloris : cic Kyrcciin : ci : Domini : Andre :
thJti : ejus : /?ft7,/'-« (fe Kil : comnn : qui banc criicem fieri faciebai. Mr. Ciordon (by
report) mentions this as a Oaniili obelilk, but does no*^ veniuro thi> dofcriinion as he
had not opportunity of feeing it : liis inlormant iaid, that it was brought from Jona,
which concurs with the tradition of this place.

At night ain admitted a freeman of Campbeltown, and, according to the cuflom of
the place, confult the Oracle of the Bottle about my future voyage, aliiiled by a nu-
merous company of brother burgcfles.

June 2S. Leave Candu'ltown with a full fonfj of all the civilities tvceivcd there.
Ride over a plain about five miles wide. iSoe on the road fide a gnat wheel, defigned
for the raifing water from the neighbo'-ring collieries. 'I'lie coal is eight fett thick,
dips one yard in five, and points N. E. by N. W. ; is iA^. on the bank for four (hil-
lings per ton ; but futficient is not yet railed for the ufe of the ctiuntry.

This plain is fruitful, pretty much inclofed, and the hedges grow well ; a great en-
couragement for further experiments j the improveii land is rented here from tiitecii
to twenty fliillings an acre.

Obferve on the road fide the ruins of the chapel of Cill-chao\'ain, or Kil-chyvain ;
wit! in are fome old grave flones, engraven with fi.L'urcs of a two-handed fvvord, and
of oogs chafing a deer.

Ride three miles along the fands of Machrai'-Shanaisbay, noted for the tremendous
fize and roaring of its waves in Itormy ieafons ; and for the lofs of many Ihips, which,
by reafon of the iownefs of the land, uv received into dcfbuCtion.

Dine at a tolerable houfe at liar ; vi'il the gnat cave of B alach-a'-chaochaii., near
the fhore. Embark in a rotten, leaky boat, ami pafiii:g through fix miles of rijiplinf/
fea, find late at ni;lit 01 r veflel faie at anchor, under the '.alt tide of th" ille of Gigha,
in the little harb lur of Caolas-giogl.'ui, protected by Gigha, and 'he little ille ol t'ar.i
on the welt and fouth, and by a cinin of v..fl rocks to thv e.dl : numbers appear jult
peeping above water in (evoral pans, and others that run mit far from the C'aniyrc
fliorc corrtfpond with theiu lo exactly, as Jo mak'' it probable that they once formed
the fame bed.

June 29. (.and on Gigha, an illand a ut fix niiies, and one broad; the moft
eadeni of the Hebrides : this, with Cara. forms a parifh in the county of Bute, in the
prclbytery of Ciantyre. I las in it no high hills, and is a !ni.\ture "f mc!-, pallure, and
arable land- Produces barley, bear, oats, flax, and potatoes. Malt is made here and

6 txportt d ;

PENNANTS SKCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

371

exported ; and about a hundred and fifty bolls of bear ; Infomuch that fomctimes the
natives feel the want of it, and fuller by a fcarcity arifing from their own avarice.
They alfo rear more cattle than they can maintain, and annually lofe numbers for want
of fodder.

The ifland k ilivid?d in'^o thirty mnrklands, each of which ought to maintain fourteen
cows and four hofeh, bifides producing a certain quantity of corn. Ihe bear yields
five, the oats three fold. Each niark.la;.d is commonly occupied by one farmer,
who has fevcral in.ini'd fcrvants under hun, who live in feparate cottages and are-
allowed to keep a R'w catilo and Iheep. Tie wages areirom three to four pounds a.
year to the men favanrs; from twenty to thirty fhillings to the women. The young
men employ themfelvcs in the funinur in the Jierring filhery j but during winter give
themfelvcK up L'iiliit.1) 10 .ai iiiadive lilo.

1 his ifland contains ah iUt fivj hundred inhabitants, and the revenue is about fix
hundred a year ; mf/d of it brlongiii .; to Mr. Macneile of Taynifh. In old times the
lair J w.is fl)led Thane of i igiia : his family has been long owner of thefe little terri»
tories, this fca-girt reign, but was diipofT-fled of it in 1549, by the * clan Donald, and
recovered it a^ain ; but hiltory mnits the tinij of relloration. DHconient lias even
reached this fmall ifland, and two families have migrated to America.

Breakfall with the minitter, who may truly be laid to be wedded to his flock. The
ocean here forbids all wandering, even if inclination excited j and the equal lot of
the Scotch clergy is a (Idl ftronger check to every afpiring thought : this binds them
to their people, and invigorates every duty towards thofe to whom they confider them-
felvcs connedled for life ; this equal lot may perhaps blunt the ambition after iome
of the more fpecious accompliflunents ; but makes more than amends by Iharpening
the attention to thofe concerns " hich end not with this being.

Vifit the few wonders of the ifle : the firll is a little well of a mofl miraculous qua-
lity ; for, in old times, if ever the chiehain lay here wind-bound, lie had nothing more
to do than caule the well to be cleared, and inltantly a tavouraole gale arofe. But
miracles are now ceafed.

Kxamiue the ruins of a church, and find iome totnbs with two-handed fwords, the
Claidh-da laiinb of tlie hero depofited beneath.

A little farther, at Kil cliattan, is a greic rude column, fixteen feet high, four
broad, and eight inches thick, and near it, u cairn, (^u a line with this, at Cnoc-a*-
chara, is another, and liiU higher in tlie lame direction, at Crioc-a'-crois, is a crofs and
three cairns ; probably the crols, after the introdudiou of Chnftianity, was formed out
of a pagan monument liir.ilar to the two ionner.

In tlie Lotlom a little t.ilt from thele, is a large artificial mount of a fquare form,
grov.hig lei's and lefs towards the top, which is 11 it, and has the velHge of a brealt-
wall around. The mount Roineliiorg in Sweden, engraven by M. Dahlberg,
No. 325, is I'omcwhat liiuilar : this probably uas the work of the Danes, the neigh-
bouring nation.

Return to the fliore ; obferve a vaft bed of molt pure and fine fand, ufeful in the
gl-Afs manutatlure : the fame fpecies, but dcliled with a mixture of fea fand, appears
again on the oppofite coalt of Cantyre.

'I'he birds that appe;ir here at prefent are the common gull, comnon fandpiper, and
fea pic. 1 he great ardic diver, of the Britilh Zoology, fomctimes vints thefe feat., and
if; lltlcd in the lirl'e farbluwchaille, or t!» .■ ' ordfman of the ocean ; becaufe, as is pre-

:ma

:^i

■ ,' \

^L.:':

■i;.^

Dean of i!.e If!cs, 7,

tended.

'»'n;KANT*S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

tc'ndeci, It never leaves that clement, never flies, and hatches the young beneath its
wing.

The wciihcr extremely fine; but fo calm that Mr.Thompfon is obligcil to tow the
vcilel out of this little harbour, which is of unequal depths, but unfit for velTels that
draw more than fourteen feet water. Pais under Cara, an ifle one mile long, divided
by a narrow channel, fourh of Gigha, is inhabited by one family, and had once a chapel.
At the fouth end it rifes into a hill cxadly formed like a loaf of bread. The property
of this little place is in Mr. Macdonald of I.argis.

Attempt to ffcer for the ifland of Hay, but in vain. Am entertained with the variety
and grcatnofs of the views that bound the channel, the great found of Jura ; to the cafi
the mountains of Arran over-top the far-extending fliores of Cantyre ; to the wcfl: lies
Jura, mountainous and rugged ; four hills, naked and diflimSt, al'piro above the red,
two of them known to the feamen by the name of the Paps, ufcful in navigation : far
to the north jufl appears a chain of fmall iflcs ; and to the fouth the u. 'nd of Rathry,
the fuppofed Ricnea, or Ricina of Pliny *, on the coall of Ireland, which (Iretchjs be-
yond tar to the well.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE HEBRIUES.

The leifu'-o of '. calm gave ample time for refledion on the hiitory and greater events
of the 'ilands now in view, and of the others, the objc£ls of the voyage. In juflice to
that atM n.'i learned writer the Rev. Dr. John Macpherfon, late minifter of Slato in
Skie, U\ : acknowledge the afliftance I receive from his ingenious elTay on this very
fubjcft ; tor hi? 'abours greatly facilitate my attf mpt, not undertaken wit^^out confult-
irg the auth'' " refers to ; and adding numbt.'j of remarks overfeen by him, and
giving a confiderable continuation of the hiftory. It would be an olh-ntatious tafk to
open a new quarry, when fuch heaps of fine n^aterials lie ready to my hand.

All the accourts left us by the Greek and Roman writers are enveloped withobfcu-
rity ; at all times brief, even in their defcription of places they had cafielt accefs to, and
might have defcribed with the moR fatisfailory precifion ; but in remote places their
rclatio""^ furnifh little more than hints, the food for conjtdure to the vifionary antiquary.

That Pythcas, a traveller mentioned by Strabo, had vifited Great Britain, I would
wilh to make only apocryphal : he afferts that he vifited the remoter parts; and that
he had alio feen Thule, the land of romance among the ancients, which all may pretend
to huve feen; but every voyager, to fwcll his fame, made the illand he law lall the ultima
Thule of his travels. If Pythe.-s had reached thcle parts he might have obferved float-
ing in the leas multitudes of gelatinous animals, the medufx of Linn.xus, and out of
thefe have formed his fable : he made his Thule a compofition of neither earth, fea,
nor air, but like a compofition of them all ; then, catching his fnnile from what floated
before him, compares it to the lungs f of the fea, the Arillotelian idea of thefe bodies ;
and from him adopted by naturalifls, fuccelTors to that great philofopher. Strabo very
juflly explodes thefe abfurd talcs, yet allows him racri: in defcribing the climate of the
places he had feen. As a farther proof of his having vifited the Hebrides, he mentions
their unfriendly fl^y, that prohibits the growth 'f ihc uner fruits; and that the natives
are obliged to carry their corn under melter, to beat the grain out, led it diuuld be
fpoiled by the defcd of the fun, and violence of the rains J. This is the probable part
of his narrative ; but when the time that the great geographer wrote is confidered ; at

• Lib iv. c. \^i. + Hiil. Aug. lib. XV. Sttabo, lib. ii. p. ■j\.

j buabo, lib. iv. lu). Thi. is alio ncntiontd by Diodonis Sicubu.

a per

lOU

^^m

I'ENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 273

a period that tlicfe iflands had been ncgleded for a very long fpaco by the Romans, and
Avhen the dilHcuhies of getting among a fierce and uiifriemlly nation mu(l be ahnolt
infuperable, doubts innumerable rcfpeding the veracity of this relator mull arifc : all
that can be admitted in favour of him is, that he was a great traveller, that he might
have either vifited Britain, with fome of the nations comniercinf^ with our iile, or have
received from them accounts, which he afterwards drcfl'ed out mixed with the ornaments
of fable. A traflic mull have been carried on with the very northern inhabitants of
our iflands in the time of Pytheas, ibr ono of the articles of commerce mentioned by
Strabo, the ivory bits, were made either of the teeth of the walrus, or of a fpccies of
whale native of the northern feas.

The geographer Mela, who tlourifhed in the reign of Claudius, is the next who takes
notice of our lefl'er iflands. He mentions the Orcades as confiding cf thirty ; the
JEmoda: of feven. The Romans had then made a conqueft of the former, and might
have feen the latter ; but from the words of the hiftorian, it is probabl': that the Shet-
land iflands were thofe intended ; for he informs us, that the yKmodx were carried out
over againd Germany: the fite of the Hebrides will not admit o: this dcfcription, which
agrees vcy well with the others; for the ancients extended their Germany, and its
imaginary iflands, to the extreme north.

Piiny the elder is the next that mentions thefe remote places. He lived later than
the preceding writers, and of courfe his information is fuller : by means of intervening
dii'coverics, he has added ten more to the number of the Orcades : is the firll writer
that mentions the Hebrides, the iflands in quefl;ion ; and joins in tiie fame line the
.'Emoda;, or, as it is in the befl: editions more properly written, the Acmoda^- *, or ex-
treme point of the Roman expeditions to the north, as the Shetland ifles in the higheft
probability were. Pliny and Mela agree in the number of the iEmoda:, or Acmoda: ;
the former makes that of the Hasbudes thirty ; an account extremely near the truth,
dedutting the little ifles, or rather rocks, that furrounded moft of the greater, and many
of them lo indillinci: as fcarcely to be remarked, except on an adual furvey.

Solinus fucceeds Pliny : if he, as is fuppofed, was cotemporary with Agricola, he has
made very ill ufe of the light he might have received from the expeditions of that great
general, vvhofe ofiicers might have furniflied the hillorian with better materials than
thofe he has communicated. He has reduced the number of the Haibude.^ to five : he
tells lis, that " the inhabitants were unacquainted with corn ; that they lived only on
fifh and milk ; that they had one king-, as the iflands were only feparated from each
ot'.ier by narrow (b-aits ; that their princj v.-as bound by certain rules of government to
do juflice ; and was prevented by poverty from deviating from the true courfe ; being
fupported by the public, and allowed nothing that he could call his own, not even a
wife; but then he was allowed free clu^ice, by turns one out of every diftrict of any
female that caught his aflcdion, which deprived him of all ambition about a fu;-
celforf."

By the number of thefe iflands, and by the miuute attention given by the hiftorian
to the circumfiancc of their being feparated from each other by very narrow ftraits, I
flioukl irnagiiie that which is now called the Long ilLuul, and includes l.ewis. North UIll,
Beabecula, South Uill, and Barra, to have been the live Hacbudes of Soli. ms ; for the
other great iilands, fucli as Skie, Sec. are too remote from each other to f )nn the pre-
CL-ding very characterilUc defeription of th.u chain of ifl.uult:. The!e might naturally
fall under the rule of one petty prince ; aliuoll the only probable part of Solinus's
narrative.

Lib.

c. j6.

f Polyhiilor, c. 31;.

VOL. lit.

N N

After

"'ml;'-

t; "■'. . ','1

;t^,:r;i'

' ■' ■■■il
1 iivMfl

t .^r

V A- : ■

'^•!|

S74 PENNANT*8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

After a long interval appears Ptolemy, tiic Egyptian geographer : he alio enumerates
five Ebihia", aiui lias given each a name ; the wellorn, Kbuiia ; the caflcrn, Ricina,
Maloos, Epidium. ('ainJcn conjei^liires them to li." tlie modern Skio, Lewis, Rathry,
or Raeline, Mull, and Hay ; aiul I will not controvert his opinion.

The Roman hiftorians give v^-iy little light into the geography of thefe parts. Ta-
citus, from whom molt might have been expeJ^eil, is q\iite filent about the names of
places ; notwithllanding he informs us, that a fleet by command of Agricola performed
the circumnavigation of Hritain. All that he takes notice of is the difcovery ami tho
conquell of the Orknies: it fliould fcom that with the biographers of an ambitious
nation, nothing fccmed worthy of notice, but what they could dignify with the glory
of vidory.

It is \cr)' diflicult to aflign a rcafon for the change of name from Ebuda- to Hebrides ;
the lall is modern, and fcems, as the annotator on Di Macplierfon fuppofos, to have
arifen from the error of a tranfcribor, wlio changed tiic u into ri.

From all that has bgcn colleded from the ancionrs, it appears that they were ac-
quainted witii little more of the Hebrides than the bare names : it is probable that the
Romans, either from contempt of fucii barren fpots, from the dangers of the feas, the
violence of the tides, and horrors of the narrow fninds in the inexperienced ages of
navigation, never attempted their conqueft, or faw more of them than what they had
in fight, during the few circumnavigations of Great Britain, which were expeditions
more of oflcntaiion than of utility.

The inhabitants had probably for fonie ages their own governors : one little king to
each illand, or to each groupe, as necelTity required. It is reafonable to fuppofe, that
their government was as much divided as that of Great Britain, which it is well known
was under the dirf(^Uon of numbers of petty princes before it was reduced under the
power of the Romans.

No account is given in hiflory of the time thefe iflands were annexed to the govern-
ment of Scotland. If we may credit our Sa.\on hillorians, they appjar to have been
early under the dominion of the Pic\s ; for Bede and Adainnanus inform us, that loon
after the arrival of St. Cohimba in their couutry, Brudeus, a Pic^ifh monarch, made
the faint a prtlcnt of the celebrated ifland of Jona *.

But neither the holy men of this ifland, nor the natives of the rcll of the Hebrides,
enjoyed a permanent repolc after this event.

The firft invafion of the Danes does not feem to be rafily afcertained r it appears
that they ravaged Ireland, and the ifie of Rathry, as early as the year y;^^. In the fol-
lowing century their expeditions became more frequent: Harold Harfager, or the
Light-haired, purfued in cy^ feveral petty princes whom he had expelled out of Nor-
way, who had taken refuge in the Hebrides, and molefled his dominions by perpetual
defcents from thofe iflands. 11." feems to have made a rapid conquelt : he gained as
many victories as he fought battles ; he put to death the chief of the pirates, and made f
an indifcriminate flaughtcr of their followers. Soon afrer his rotus-n, the iflanders re-
poflefled their ancient feats ; and in order to reprefs their infults, he fent Ketil, the
Flat iiofed, with a fleet and fome forces for that purpofe. He foon reduced them
to terms ; but made his vidories fubfervient to his own ambition ; he made alliances
with the Reguli he had fubdued ; he formed intermarriages, and confirineil to them
their old dominions. 1 his efl'eded, he fent back the tie ct to Harold, openly declared
himfelf independent, made himfelf prince of the Hebrides-, and caufeJ them to ackuow-

Bciff, lib. iii. c. iv. A<iamnanu» vit Columbz, lib. ii. c. ic, aud i'i.

j M'orfwus, 10-

ledge

PliNNAKT B SECOND TOITR IS SCOTl.AN,!!.

^75

Icdj^o him ns fuch by tho payment of tributr*, and the badges of vaflalago*. Kt'tH re-
maiiK-d diirinjr life maflcr of tho iilanJ.^, and his fubjcdls appear to have been a v^arlike
fct of freebo(5trrs, ready to join wivh any adventurers. Thus wliea Kric, Ton of Harold
ITarfaper, after bein^ driven out of his own country, made an invafion of Knglmd, he
put with hi*, fleet into the Hebridc;, received a large reinforcement of people, fired with
the hopes of prey, and then proceeded on his plan of rapine f. After the death of
Ketil a kingdom v^n- '"n after-times compofi-d out of them, which from the refidcnce of
the little monarch ;:; he ido of Man, .as lliled that of Man |. The iflands became
tribuvaiy •^o that of Kwi way ^ for a confiderable time, and princes were fent from
thence || i > govern ; but at length they again (hook oft" the yoke. Whether the little
potentates ruled independent, or wht'ther they put themfelves under the protedlon of
the Scottifh nionarchs, does not clearly appear ; but it is reafonable to fuppofe the lafl,
a.s Donald-bane is accufed of making the Hebrides the price of tiie afll!lance given him
by the Norn egians agamil his own fubjecfts. Noiwithltanding they might occafionally
feek the protection of Scotland, yet lIj y . jr were without princes of their own : from
the ciironickvs of the kings of Man •• we learn that they had a fucceflion.

In 10M9 is an evident proof of the independency of theiflanders on Norway ; for on
the death of I/.igman, one of t'uir inonarchs, they fent a deputation to O'Brian, King
of Irela:' ', to requcft a regent of royal blood to govern them during the minority of
the*) young prince. They probably i ight in turn compliment in fome other refpefts
fht'i Scottilh neighbours: the iflanders mud have given them fome pretence to Ibve-
reignty, for,

In 1093, Donald-bane, King of Scotland, calls in the affiftance of Magnus, the Bare-
footed, King of Norway, and bribes him with a promifcofall the iflands ft : Magnus
accepts the terms, but at the fame time boafts that he does not come to invade the ter-
ritories of others, but only to refume the ancient rights of Norway. Ilis conquefts are
rapid and complete, for befidesthe iflands, by an ingenious fraud J J, he addsCantyre to
his dominions.

The Hebrides continued goveriied by n prince dependent on Norway, a fpecies of
viceroy appointed by that court, and who paid, on aifuming the dignity, ten marks of
gold, and never made any other pecuniary acknowledgement during life ; but if another
viceroy was appointed, the fame fum was cx.idted from him§§. Thefe viceroys were
fometimes Norwegians, fometimes nati' .. of the ifles. In 1 097 we find that Magnus ||||
deputes a noblenun, of the name of li' jmund : in after-times ',ve learn that natives
were appointed to that high oflice ; yet ihr feem at times to have fliaken off their in-
dependency, and to have alfumed the tit' ^ of king. Thus in 1206 we find ^ King John
gives to his brother monarch Reginald, king of the ifles, a fafe condud ; and in fix
years after, that Reginald fwears iidelity to our monarch, and becomes his liege-man.
It is probable they fuited their allegiance co their conveniency ; acknowledging the fu-
periority of England, Scotland, or No'-way, according to the neceflity of the times.
Thus were the Hebrides governed, frc a the conqueft, by Magnus till the year 1263,
when Acho, or Haquin, King of Norway, by an unfortunate invafion of Scotland, ter-
minating in his defeat at Largs, fo weakcv.ed the powers of his kingdom, that his fuc-
cellor, Magnus IV., was content in 1266 to make a ceflion of the iflands to Alexan-
der 111. ; but not without ftipulating for the payment of a large fum, and of a tribute

■i?i';:,

■fis

* y

* ToiTx'in, 1 4.
+ ll.id. 23,
i ISKl. :,;.

II Camilcn. 14J4.
• • 111 Camden
ff Biicli.nn.iii, lib. vii. c. 2}-

1 1 'Vinlvewi, 73.

N N 2

§j Hift. Normannorum, p. icoo.
;;]| Cliion. Man.
1| Rymcr'j facdera, I. 140. 159.

ij6

pennant's SIXOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

of a hundred marks for ever, which bore the name of the annual of Norwajr. Anmle
provifion was alfo inndo by Maginis in the lame treaty, for the fccurity of the rights
and properties of his Norwegiiiii iubjetts who chofc to continue ia the illes, wlierc inuny
of their pollcrity icmnii'. to tnis day.

Notwitliftan '.'■' j this revolution, Scotli i i ems to li:ivc roceivi-d no real acquilition
of ftrength : the iilands Hill reiiKum* I gov -ned by powerful chieftains, the dcfcend j' ■ of
Somerlcd, thane of Ileregnidi'l, or Argyl, , who, man ying the dniighter of Olav , Iw.iig
of Man, left a divided dominion to his fons Dugal and Reginald : from the firfb were
defcended the Mac-dougals of Lorn j from tlu lafl tiie powerful clan of the Mac-don.i'ds.
ThcIordOiip of Argyle with Mull, and the iflands north of it, fell to the Ihare of the
firfl J Hay, Cantyre, and the fouthcrn iilcs were the portion of the lad : a divifion that
formed the diftindion of the Sudereys and Nordcreys, which will be farther noticed in
the account of Jona.

Thefe chieftains were the fcourgen of the kingdom : they arc known in liillory but
as the devaftations of a tempefl ; for their paths were marked with the melt barbarous
defolation. Encouraged by their diftance from the feat of royalty, and the turbulence
of the times, which gave their monarhs full employ, they e-';erciied a regal power, and
often aflumed the title; but are more generally known in hillory by the (tile of the
Lords of the ifles, or the Earls of Rofs ; and fometimes by that of the great Mae-donald.

Hiftoriansare ftlent about their proceedings, from th.; retreat of the Danes, in 1263,
till that of 1335, when John, lord of the ifles, withdrew his allegiance *. In the be-
ginning of the next century his fuc^jeifors were fo iiidt'pendpnt. that Henry IV. \ fent
two ambafladors, in the years 1405 and 140R, to form an alliance with tlie brothers
Donald and John : this encouraged them to commit frvdi hoflilities againll thei.- natural
prince. Donald, under pretence of a claim to the earldom of Rofs, invad. il and made
a conqueft of that country ; but pjnetrating as far as the Odre of Aberdeen, after a
fierce but undtcifive battle with the royal i)arty, thought proper to retire, and in a
little time to fwear allegiance to 1 "> ;i march |, James 1. lint he was permitted to
retain the county of Rofs, andaiVoru? she title of earl, llis fuccefTor, Alexander, at
the head of ten thoufand men, ;)':• '^-eJ and burnt lnvcrner«; at length terrified with
the preparations made againft l>i,.i, J' i; ;.t the royal feet, and obtained panlon as to life,
but was committed to llrict confinc-.i!,:!!.

Hiskinfman and deputy, Donald Builoch, refenting the imprifonmrnt of hi; -liieftain,
excited another rrlvllion, and uelln^yed the country with fire and fword ; but on his
flight was taken and put to deadi by an Irifh chieftain, with whom he fought pro-
tection.

Thefe barbarous inroads were very frequent with a fet of banditti, who had no other
motive in war but the infamous inducement of plunder. In p 251 we fee their cruel
invafion of the (hire of Lenox, and the horrible malTarri' in confequence.

In tlie reign of James II., in the year 1461, Donald, another petty tyrant, and I'.arl
of Rol's, and lord of the ifles, renewed the preicnce of independency, furprifed the i aflie
ot Invernefs, forced his way as far as Athol, obliged the Earl and Countefs, witli the
principal inhabitan;?, to Lek refuge in the church of St. Bridget, in hopes of finding
focurily iivm h\3 cruelty by the fanctity of the place; but the barbarian and his fol-
lowers fet fire to the church, put the ecclefiadics to the fword, and, with a great b oty,
carried the Earl and Counlels priloners to his caltle of Claig, in the illand of Hay §. In

• Biicliannn, !il>. ix. c 12,

f Ryina't, Fa;dira, viii. 41b'. 527.

t Roctti lib xvi. ^42.
§ Riicli.inan, lib. xii. c.

19.

a fccond

n!NV ant's SKPONO tour in SCOTLAND. §ff

a lecond expedition, immediately following the firfl, he fuffcred the penalty of hi.s im-
piety ; a tenipefl overtook hitn. and overwhelmed iiioft of his adbciates, and he efcap-
iiig to Inverncfs, pcrifli d by tlir hanJ,s of an Irifli hu ^)er* : his furviving followers
rclunied to Hay, convcyid the Earl and Countefy of Athol to the landuary u.jy had
violated, and ex])idtcd their ciiine by rcftoriiig the plunder, and making large donations
to the flirine of tin: oflonded faint.

Jolin, fucceffor to the lafl Esrl of Rofs, entered into an alliance w ith Edward iV. f,
font anibair.i.iors to the court of England, wlu '".dwarJ empowered the liifliop of
Durham, and Earl of Worccfli^r, the prior oi St. John's of Jerufalem, and John Lord
Wenlock to conclude a treaty with him, another Donald Balloch, and his fon and heir
John, "hey agreed to fcrve the king with all their power, and to become his fubj 1:3 :
the Earl was to have a hundrca /narks ■' 'ing for life '^n time of peace, and two hun-

irf allies, in cafe of the conqueft of Scotland,

dred pounds in time of war; and ih<"<
were lo have confirmed 'o them ,dl tise r
in cale of a truce with e Scottiil" t '<^'
about the year 1 476, Edward, from a
and dropt his new allies. James, clet u;
them a powerful army, under the Earl 0

ns to the north of the Scortilh foa ; and

. iney were to be included in it J. But

f politics, courted the allimce of Jameslll.,

fubdue this rebellious race, fent again-(i

and took leave of him with this good

wifli, *' Eurth, fortuni-, and fil the fetters;" as much as to fay, " Go forth, be fortli-
nate, and bring home many cajjiives ;" which the family of Athol have ufed ever fince
for its motto. Rois was terrified into fubmi(Kon, obtained his pardon, but was deprived
of his earldom, which by 'xQ. of p-arliamcnt was then declared una' cnably annexed to
the crown ; at the fame time the kinj; reftored to him Knapdale and Cantyre§, which
the Earl had rcfigiied, and inveftcd him anew with the lordlhip 01 the illes, to hold
them of the king by fervicc and relief ||.

Thus the great power of the illes was broken ; yet for a confiderable time after, the
petty chieftains were continually breaking out into fmall rebellions, 01 harraffed each
other in private wars ; and tyranny fcems but to have been multiplied. James V.
found it ncceflary to make the voyage" of the ifles inperfon in 1536 ; Ibized and brought
away with him feveral of the moll confiderable leaders, and obliged them to find fecu*
rity for their own good behaviour, and that of their vafl'als. The nam.cs of thefe chief-
tains were (according to Lindelay **) Mydyart, Mac-connel, Mac-loyd of the Lewii,
Mac-niel, Mac-lane, Mac-mtofli, John Mudyart, I\Iac-kay, Mac-kenzie, and many
others ; but by the names of feme of the above, there feem to have been continental
as well as infular malecoiitents. lie examined the titles of their holdings, and finding
feveral to have been ufurpod, re-unitcd their lands to the crown. In the lame voyage
ho had the glory of caufing furveys to be taken of the coafls of Scotland, and of the
iflands, by his pilots Alexander Eindefay ; which were publifhcd in 1583, at Paris, by
Nicholas de Nicholay, geographer to the Ercnch monarch ft.

The troubles that fucceed the death of James occafioned a neglect of thcfe infulatcd
parts of the Scottifli dominions, and left them in a (late of anarchy : in 1614, the Mac-
donalds made a formidable inluncction, oppugning the roval grant of Cantyre lo the
Earl of Argyle and his relations J|. The petty chieftains continued in a fort of rebel-
lion, and the fwordofthc greater, as ulual in weak go\ , rnniciit, was employed at;;ain!i;

Hollnftifd Hid. Scot. 279.

f For the fake of malcing a diveifion Ii
to enter into an alliance with ihcfc Reguli

(liveifion in tliclr favour, both EiUvarJ III ami Henry IV. condefcendcd

j; Rym. Fied. xi. 483, 4-'4. s Bott. Ilitl. Scot. app. 393. „ . ^^u.. ,

•• i'. 15J. If lir. Topograplj. 6i7. \\ I'tuds ot the clans, yi> liiogr. liiitaii. ll.ii.fi

;i Molfnfhed Chr. Scot. iK:
I. II

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(716) 873-4S03

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278 PJEKNANt's second tour in SCOTLAND.

them t the encouragement and protedion given by them to pirates, employed the
power of the Campells during the reign of James VI. and the beginning of that of
Charles I. •

But the turbulent fpirit of old times continued even to the prefent age. The heads
of clans were by the divifinns, and a falfe policy that predominated in Scotland during
the reign of William III. flattered with an unreal importance : inftead of being feated
as bad fubje£ls, they were courted as defirable allies ; inftead of feeling the haad of
power, money was allowed to bribe them into the loyalty of the times. They would
have accepted the fubfidics, notwithftanding they detefted the prince that offered them.
They were taapht to believe themfelves of fuch confequence that in thefe days turned
to their deflruction. Two recent rebellions gave legiflature a late experience of the
folly of permitting the feudal fyftem to exift in any part of its dominions. The aft of
1748 at once deprived the chiettains of all power of injuring the public by their com-
motions t. Many of thefe Ret^uli fecond this effort of legiflature, and negleft no op-
portunity of rendering themfelves hateful to their unhappy vaflTals, the former inftru-
ments of ambition. The Halcyon days are near at hand : opprefllon will beget depopu-
lation ; and depopulation will give us a dear-bought tranquillity.

The remainder of the day is pad in the luund of Jura : about twelve at noon a plea-
fant but adverfe breeze arofe, which obliged us to keep on towards the north, fome-
times tacking towards the coaft of lower ^napdale, black with heathy mountains, ver-
dant near the (hores with tracts of com : advance towards upper Knapdale, ruggid and
alpine : am told of a dangerous rock in the middle of a channel. About one o'clock
of June 30, receive notice of getting into the harbour of the fmall ifles of Jura, by the
veflel's touching ground in the entrance. On the appearance of daylight hnd our-
felves at anchor in three fathom and a half of water, in a mod pi^urefque bay,
bounded on the well by the ifle of Jura, with the paps overihadowing us } and to the
eaft feveral little iflands cloathed with heath, leaving narrow admiffions into the port at
North and South : in the maps this is called the bay of Meil.

Land on the greater ifle, which is high and rocky. A boat (iUed with women and
cluldren crofles over from Jura, to coled their daily wretched fare, limpets and perri*
\rinkles. Obferve the black guillemots in little flocKS, very wild and much in motion.

Mr. Campbell, principal proprietor of the ifland, is fo obligini; as to fend horfes :
land in Jura, at a little village, and fee to the right on the ihore the church, and the
".giinifter's manfe. Ride weftward about five miles to Ard-fin, the refidence of Mr.
Campbell, feated above the found of Hay.

Jura, the moft rugged of the Hebrides, is reckoned to be about thirty-four miles
long, a^ in general ten broad, except along the four>d of Hay : is compofed chiefly of
vaft mountains, naked and without the poltibility of cultivation. Some of the fouth,
and a little of the Weftern fides only are improveable : as is natural to be fuppofed, this
ifland is ill peopled, and does not contain about feven or eight hundred inhabitants j
having been a little thinned by the epidemic mij^rations.

The very old clans, are the Mac-il-vuys and the Mac-raines : but it feems to have
changed mafters more than once : in 1 549 J, Donald of Cantyre, Mac-guillayne of
Doward, Mac-guillayne of Kinlyck-buy, and Mac-duffie of Colonfay were the proprie-

* Tn the beginninjf of the lad century the Idanders were continually harrafling Ireland with their plun.
derin^ invaflons « or landing there to fnpport rebellions : at length it wat in«de trcafon to rccMve tticfc
Hofcridian Hfdfhanks, aa the/ were Ityied. C.imden II. 140;.

f The ad for tboUfhing heritable jurifdidlions. Sic. | Dcm «f xke iin.

tors;

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

279

tors : Mac-lean of Mull ha J alio a fliare in 1586. At prefent Mr. Campbell by pur-
chafe from Mr. Campbell of Shawfield j Mr. Mac-neile of Colonfiiy, Mr. Campbell
of fihawfield ; and the Duke of Argyle divide this mafs ©f weather-beaten barrennefs
among them.

In 1607 Jura was included in the lordfhip of Cantyre, by charter, dated the laft of
May, then granted to Archibald Earl of Argyle.

The produce is about three or four hundred head of cattle, fold annually at 3I. each,
to graziers who come for them. About a hundred horfes are alfo fold annually : here
are a few fheep with fleeces of mod excellent Bnenefs, and numbers of goats. In good
feafons fuflicient bear and oats are raifcd as will maintain the inhabitants : but they
fomctimes want, I fuppofe from the converfion of their grain into whifky. But the
chief food of the common people is potatoes and fi{h and fhell fifh. It is to be feared
that their competence of bread is very fmall. Bear produces four or five fold : oats
three fold.

Fern afhes bring in about a hundred pounds a year : about two hundred tons of
kelp is burnt annually, and fold from 3I. 10s. to 4I. per ton.

Sloes are the only fruits of the ifland. An acid for punch is made of the berries of
the mountain alh : and a kind of fpirit is alio diftilled from them.

Neceflity hath inftru£ted the inhabitants in theufeof native dyes. Thus the juice of
the tops of heath boiled fupplies them with a yellow ; the roots of the white v^ater lily
with a dark brown. Thofe of the yellow water iris with a black : and the Galium
verum, Ru of theiflanders with a very fine red, not inferior to that from Madder.

The quadrupeds of Jura are about a hundred flags. Some wild cats, otters, floats,
rats and feals. The feathered game, black cocks, grous, ptarmigans, and fnipes.
The flags mud have been once more numerous, for the original name of the iiland
was Deiry, or the ifle of Deer, fo called by the Norwegians from the abundance of
thofe noble animals.

The hard fare of thefe poor people feems to have been no impediment to the popula-
tion of the ifland, nor yet to the longevity of the natives. The women arg very pro-
lific, and very often bear twins. The inhabitants live to a great age, and are liable to
very few diflempers. Men of ninety work ; and there is now living a woman of
eighty who can run down a fheep. The account given by Martin of Gillour Mac«
craiii, was confirmed to me. His age exceeded that of either Jenkins or Par : for he
kept a hundred and eighty chriftmafTes in his own houfe, and died in the reign of
Charles I. Among the modern inflances of longevity I forgot to mention John Arm-
our, of Campbeltown, aged one hundred and four, who was a cockfwain in our navy
at the time of the peace of Utrecht j and within thefe three years was (lout enough to
go out a fhooiing.

This parifh is fuppofed to be the largefl in Great Britian, and the duty the mofl
troublefome and dangerous : it confifls of Jura, Colonfay, Oranfay, Skarba, and
f'everal little ifles divided by narrow and dangerous founds ; forming a length of not
Icfs than fixty miles ; fupplied by only one miniller and an affiflant.

Some fuperftitions are obferved here at this time. The old women, when they un-
dertake any cure, mumble certain rhythmical incantations; and like the ancients, en-
deavour decantare dolorem. They prcferve a flick of the wicken tree, or mountain
afh, as a protcQion againfl elves.

I had fome obfcure account here of a worm, that in a lefs pernicious degree, bears
fome rcfemblance to the Furia infernalis * of Linnasus, which in the vaft bogs of Kemi

' }|

* Faun. Slice No. 2070.

drops

28o

PENNANTS SECOND TODR IN SCOTLAND.

drops on the inhabitants, eats inta the flefli and occaHons a mod excruciating death
The Fillian, a little worm of Jura, fmall as a thread and not an inch ia length, like the
Furin, infmuates itfelf under the &in, caufesa rednefsand great pain, files I'wiftly from
part to part ; but is curable by a poultice of checfe and honey.

After dinner walk down to the found of Ilay, and vifit the little ifland of Fruchlan,
near to the fliore, and a mile or two from the eaftern entrance. Gn the top is a ruined
tower of a fquare form, with walls nine feet thick ; on the weft fide the rock on whicli
it (lands is cut through to a vaft depth, forming a fofs over which had been the draw
bridge. This fortrefs feemed as if intended to guard the mouth of the found ; and
wasalfo the prifon where the Mac-donalds kept their captives, and in old times was
called the caftle of Claig.

July I. Ride along the (hore of. the found: take boat at the ferry, and go a mile
more by water : fee on the Jura fide fomc (heelins or fummer huts for goatherds, who
keep here a Hock of eighty for the fake of the milk and cheefes. The laft are made
without fait, which they receive afterwards from tlie afhes of fea tang, and the tang
itfelf which the natives lap in it.

Land on a bank covered with flieelins, the habitations of fome peafants who attend
the herds of milch cows. Thefe formed a grotefque groupe j fome where oblong,
many conic, and fo low that entrance is forbidden, without creeping through the little
opening, which has nootherdoor than a. faggot of birch twigs,placed there occafionally:
they are conit rutted of branches of trees, covered with fods ; the furniture a bed of
heath, placed on a bank of fod ; two blankets aiid a rug ; fomc dairy veflels, and
above, certain pendant ihelves made of bafket work, to hold the cheefe, the produce
of the fummer. In one of the little conic huts, I fpied a little infant afleep, under the
protection of a faithful dog.

Crofs, on foot, a large plain of ground, feemingly improveable, but covered with a
deep heath, and perfe^ly in a ftate of nature. See the arftic-gull, a bird unknown in
South Britain, which breeds, here on the ground : it was very tame, but, if difturbed,
flew about like the lapwing, but with a more flagging wing. After a walk of four
miles, reach the Paps : left the lefler to the fouth-eaft, preferring the afcent of the
preateft, for there are three ; Beinn-a-chaolois, or, the mountain of the found ; Beinn>
iheunta, or the hallowed mountain ; c" ' Beinn-an-air, or, the mountain of gold. We
began to fcale the laft ; a taftc of mu /Our and difficulty j being compoled of vaft

(tones, flightly covered with n offes n.. . .ne bafe, but all above bare, and unconnedked
with each other. The whole feems a cairu, the work of the fons of Saturn ; and Ovid
might have caught his idea from this hill, had he feen it.

Afrc^ifTe fcriint rcanum celefte G'gantes,
iMtaquf coiigtftot fliuxifTc aJ lidcra monte?.

Gain the top, and find our fatigues fully recompenccd by the grandeur of the profpeft
from this fublime fpot : Jura itfelf afforded a ftupendous fct-ne of rock, varied with
little lakes innumerable. From the weft fide of the hill ran a narrow ftripeofrock,
terminating in the fea, called, the fide of the old hag. Such appearances are very
common in this ifland and in Jura, and in feveral parts of North Britam, and the
North of Ireland, and all fuppofed to be of vulcanic origin, being beds of lava of
various breadths, from three feet to near feventy. Their depth is unknown ; and as
to length, they rini for miles tt g.-ther, crofs the founds, and often appear on the oppo-
fitefhorts. They frequently appear three or four feet above the furface of the ground,
fo that they are called on that account Whin-dikes, forming natural dikes, or boundaries.

» The

■1 .;

lik

PENNANT 3 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

aSl:

The filTin'es were left empty from earlieft times. It is impoflible to fix a period when
fome tremendous vulcanic eruption happened, hkc that of late years infcfled Iceland,
with fuch fatal effefts, and filled every chafm and every channel with the liquid hva.
Such a dream poured itfelf into thefe fiiTures, that cooled and confolidated ; and remains
evident proofs of the fliarc which fire had in caufing the wondrous appearances we fo
frequently meet with, and fo greatly admire. In a certain bay in the ifle of Mull, there
remains a fiifure which efcaped receiving the fiery llrcam. The fides are of granite :
the width only nine or ten feet ; the depth not lefs than a hundred and twenty. It
ranges N. by W. and S. by E. to a vail extent : and appears againfl: a correfpondent
filTiirc on the oppofite Ihore. In the Ph. Tranf. tab. iv. is a view of this tremendous
gap : together with the two (tones which have accidentally fell, and remained hitched
near the top of the northern extremity. Thefe and numbers of other vulcanic curio-
fities in the Hebrides, are well defcribed by Abraham Mills, Efq. of Macclesfield,
who in 1788 vifited feveral of the iflands, and in the Ixxxth vol. of the Ph. Tranf. has
favoured the public with his ingenious remarks. To the fouih appeared Hay, extended
like a map beneath us j and beyond that, the north of Ireland ; to the weft, Gighaand
Car, Cantrye and Arran, and the P'irth of Clyde, bounded by Airfhire ; an amazing
traft of mountains to the N E. as far as Ben-lomond ; Skarba finifhed the northern
view; and over the Weftern Ocean were fcattered Colonfay and Oranfay, Mull, Jona,
and its neighbouring groupe of ifles j and flill further the long extents of Tirey and Coi
juft apparent.

On the fummit are feveral lofty cairns, not the work of devotion, but idle herds, or
curious travellers. Even this vaft heap of (tones was not uninhabited : a hind pafTed
along the fides full fpeed, and a brace of ptarmigans often favoured us with their ap-
pearance, even near the fummit.

The other paps are feen very diftindly : each inferior in height to this, but of all the
fame figure, perfedlly mamillary. Mr. Banks and his friends mounted that to the
fouth, and found the height to be two thoufand three hundred and fifty-nine feet : but
Beinn an-6ir far over-topped it ; feated on the pinnacle, the depth below was tremend*
ous on every fide.

The ftones of this mountain are white (a few red) quartzy and compofed of fmall
grains ; but fome are brecciated, or filled with cryftalline kernels, of an amethyftine
colour. The other (tones of the ifland that fell under my obfervation, were a cinereous
Hate, veined with red, and ufed here as a whet (tone : a micaceous fand (tone ; and
between the fmall illes and Ardefin, abundance of a quartzy micaceous rock-flone.

Return by the fame road, crofs the Sound, and not finding the veffel arrived, am
moft hofpitably received by Mr. Freebairn, of Frccport, near Port-afkaig, his refidence
on the fouthcrn fide of the water, in the ifland of Hay.

July 2. Walk into the interior parts : on the way fee abundance of rock and pit
marie, convertible into the beft of manures. Vifit the mines, carried on under the di-
reftions of Mr. Frocbairn, fince tht^ year 1763 ; the ore is of lead, much mixed with
copper, which occafions cxpence and trouble in the feperation : the veins rife to the
furface, have been worked at intervals for ages, and probably in the time of the Nor-
wcpians, a nation of miners. The old adventurers worked by trenching, which is ap-
p v'tnt every where : the trenches are not above fix feet deep ; and the veins which
op'.'ucd into thetn not above five or fix inches thick ; yet, by means of fome inflru-
ment, unknown to us at prefcnt, they picked or fcoopcd out the ore with good fuccefs,
following it in that narrow fpuce to the length of four feet.

VOL. in.

o o

The

flSa

PENNAKT S SECOND TOUR. IN SCOTLAND.

The veins are of various thicknefles ; the ftrings numerous, conducing to large
bodies, but quiclcly exhaufted. The lead-ore is good : the copper yields thirty-three
pounds per hundred ; and forty ounces of filverfrom a ton of the metal. The lead
ore is fmelted in an air-furnace, near Freeport ; and as much fold in the pig, as fince
the firit undertaking by this gentleman, has brought in fix thoufand poundts.

Not far from thefe mines are vaft ftrata of that fpecies of iron called bog-ore, of the
concreted kind : beneath that large quantities of vitriolic mundic.

On the top of a hill, at fome little diftance, are fome rocks, with great viens of emery
running in the midft, in a horizontal direftion, and from one to three feet thick.

A Anall quantity of quickfilver has been found in the moors, which ought to encou-
rage a farther fearch.

Continue the walk to the neighbouring hill of Dun-Bhorairaig : on the fummit is a
Danilh fort, of a circular form, at prefent about fourteen feet high, formed of excellent
niafonry, but without mortar : the walls are twelve feet thick ; and within their very
thicknefs is a gallery, extending all around, the calerne for the garrifon, or the place
where the arms were lodged fecurc from wet. The entrance is low, covered at top with
great flat ftone, and on each fide is a hollow, probably intended for guard rooms ; the
infideof the fort is a circular area, of fifty-two feet diameter, with a ftone feat running
all round the bottom of the wall, about two feet high, where might have been a general
relting-place of chieftains and foldiers.

On the outfide of the fort, is another work, under which is the veftigc of a fubter-
raneous paflage conducing into it, a fort of fally port. Round the whole of this an-
cient fortrefs is a deep fofs. Three of thefe forts are generally within fight, fo that in
cafe of any attempt made on any one, a fpcedy alarm might be given to the others.
Each was the centre of a fmall diRrid ; and to them the inhabitants might repair for
fhelter in cafe of any attack by the enemy : the notice was given from the fort, at night
by the light of a torch, in the day by the found of trumpet : an inilrument celebrated
among tne Danes, fometimes made of brafs, fometinies of horn *. The northern
Bards fpeak hyperbolically of the cfteft of the blaft blown by the mouth of the heroes.
The great Roland caufed his trunipet Olivantf to be hoard twenty miles, and by the
found fcattered about the very brains of one of his hearers.

Return, and fee on the road fide the ruins of a chapel dedicated to St. Colomba j and
near it an ancient crofs.

July 3. Several gentlemen of the ifland favour me with a vifit : and offer their fcr-
viceto conduct me to whatever was worthy of attention. Set out, in their company,
on horieback, and ride fouth, crofling the country ; find the roads excellent, but the
country quite open ; and too much good land in a ftate of nature, covered with heath,
but mixed with plenty of natural herbage. See fome ftunted woods of birch and hazels,
giving Ihelter to black game. On Imiriconart, or the plain ridge, are the veftiges of
ibme butts, where the great Mac-donald exercifed his men at archery. Reach arid
dine at Kilarow, a village feated on Loch-in-daai, a vaft bay, that penetrates very deeply
into the ifland. Oppofite Bomore, fliips of three hundred tons may ride with fafety :
which renders it r«. very convenient retreat.

Near Kilarow is the feat of the proprietor of the ifland. In the church yard is now
proftrate a curious column, perhaps the (haft of a crofs, for the top is broken oflf ; and

• Wormii Mufeum, 378. Doatc's Nat. Hift. Ireland, 197.
f Wormii Mon. Dan. 381.

Smith's ll'ti\. Cork, ii. 40^.

near

PENK amy's SSCONO TOUR IN SCOTLAKH.

383

near It is a flat (lone, with a hole in the middle, the probable pedeflal. The figures and
infcriptions are faithfully exprefled in the plate given by Mr. Pennant.

The two mod remarkable grave-ftones are, one of a warrior, in a clofe veil and
fleeves, with a fort of phiUebcg reaching to his knees, and the covering of his head of
a conic form, like the Bared of the ancient Irifli * : a fword in his hand, and dirk by his
fide. The other has on it a great fword ; a beautiful running pattern of foliage round
it ; and a griilin, a lion, and another animal at one end : near to them is a plam tablet,
whether intended to be engraven, or whether like Peter Papin, Lord of Utrique, he was
a new knight, and wanted a device, mud remain undetermined.

On a little flat hill, near the village, are the remains of the gallows : this was the
place of execution in the days of the lords of the ifles. From hence is a pretty view
of the loch, and the church and village of Bomore.

This part of the ifland is in many places bounded by a fort of terrafs near twenty-
two feet high, entirely formed of rounded fea-worn pebbles, now fome hundred yards
didant from the medium line between high and low water mark ; and above twenty,
five yards above it. This is another proof of the lofs fuftained by the fea in the Scot-
tifli iflands ; which, we know, makes more than reprizals in other places.

Ride along the head of the bay ; at Tralaig, on a heathy eminence that faces the
fands, are three deep hollows ; their infide once lined with (lone : thefe had been the
watch-towers of the natives, to attend the motions of any invaders from the fea. Ob.
ferve near them a great column of rude (lone.

Pafs by two deep channels, at prefent dry : thefe had been the harbour of the great
Mac-donald ; had once piers, with doors to fecure his (hipping : a great iron hook, one
of the hinges having lately been found there.

The velfels then in ufe were called Birlings, probably corrupted from Bydinga t, a
fpecies of (hip among the Norwegians : but by the fize of the harbours, it is plain that
the navy of this potentate was not very confiderable.

Turn a little out of the road to fee the fite of one of his houfes, called KiUchoman,
and a deep glen, which is pointed out to me as the place where he kept his fat cattle :
fuch a conveniency was very neceflfary, as mod of the edabliflvment of the great Mac-
<lonaId's hou(hold was paid in kind. Mr. Campbell, of Balloie, favoured me with the
(late of it in 1 542, which was as follows :

North Cantyre.

In money, 1 25I. i o B.

Oat-meal, 388 dones three-quarters.

Malt, 4 ch. 10 bolls.

Marts, i. e. a dalUfed ox, 6.

Cow, I.

Muttons, 41.

Cheefe, 307 d. three-quarters.

South Cantyre.

In money, 1 62I. 8 B. 48.

Meal, 480 d. 2 pt.

Malt, 25 ch. 14 B. 2 fir.

Marts, 48.

Mutton, 53.
Cheefe, 342 d. three-quarters.

Hay and Relnds ^.

Money, 4sl. id. Meal, 2593d. Marts, 301. Mutton, 301. Cheefe, 2 161, 3 pt.
Geefe, 301. Poultry, 301.

• Mr. O'Connor's DiiT. Hid. Irelaml, in. + Torfaeus, 106.

X A traA of Hay to the wed between KiUrow and SunJerland.

00 2

'l'-'i!''i

M-m

Total

-w.-i

S84

PENNANT*S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLANDi

C. B. d.

332 I H 6

366 2 lO

122 2 6

553 6 8

45 ' • »o

2*37 2 0

604

2 18 3

1666 2 11

"own by nature.

Proceed

Caiiipcll, \'{a.

The im-

Total in money, 332I. 18 B. 6.

Meal, 306 1 ft. three-quarters, 2 pt. at 2 B.

Mah, 30 chal. 8 bolls, 2 fir. at 5 B.

Marts, 356, at 2 marks,

Mutton, 595, at 2 B.

Checfe,

Geefe, 301, at 4d.

Poultry, 301.

In Scotch money

Obfcrve, near this place, a tr.i£t quite covered with clover, fown by nature.

well, and am comiuded to SundeHand *■, the feat ot" Caiiipcll, !• fq.

provements of his lands are excellent, and the grals lb good, and the fields fo clean, as
to vie with any place. Near the houfo, in a wi.ll-lhclteu J nook, is an apple-orchard,
which bore picntiiully : thefe, with (hawberries, arc the fruits oC theie remote ifl.uids ;
the climate denies other luxuries of this nature : and even in thefe articles, Pomuna
fmiles but where Ihe finds a warm proteftion.

About a mile from the houfe, on the coail, feparated from the land by a deep but dry
chafin, is a large rock, with a pretty large area on the top : on it are veftigesof various
habitations, the retreat of the ancient natives in times of irrefiftible invalion : here they
were fecure, for the afcent is as difiicult and hazardous as moft I have undertaken.
The place is called Burg-coul, and by the name refers to Fingal, orFin-mac-cuil.

Sat up late, which gave me opportunity of knowing the lightnefs of tlu* night in the
ifland at this f'eafon : for at half an hour pad one in tlie morning, I could read the fmall
print of a newlpapcr.

July 4. Vifit Locii-guirm, about two miles diftant from Sunderland j a water of
four miles in circumference, (liallow, but abounding with trout. It is moil remarkable
for a regular fort of the Mac-donald's, placed in a finall illand, but now in ruins : the
form is fquare, with a round baftion at each corner ; and in the middie are fome walls,
the remains of ll.e buiklii)gs that flieltcred the garrifon : beneath one fide, between the
two bailions, was the place where Mac-donald fecured his boats : tlioy were drawn be-
neath the protedion of the wall of the fort, and had aiu)ther on tluir outfide, built in
the water, as an additional fecurity- The Dean of the ifles fays, that in his time this
caflle was ufurped by Mac-killaync, of Doward.

Dine at Mr. Campbell's, of Balnabbi. His land is quite riante ; his paflures in good
order ; and his people bufdy employed in hay-making : oblervcd one piece of good
grafs ground, which he aifurcd me was very lately covered with heath, now quite de-
flroyed by the ufe of Ihell-fand. Perhaps it may feem trifling to mention, that fome
tx:ellent new potatoes were ferved up at dinner ; but this circumllance, with the for-
wardncfs of the hay harveft, Ihews what may be cll'i-cted by culture in this illand,
when the tenure is fecure, for both Sunderland and Balnabbi are proprietors.

See, near the houfe, three upright flones, of a (lupendous fize, placed nearly cqui-
dillant : the largcft was fevcnteen feet high, and three broad.

Ride two miles N. W. fo Doun vollan, where fome high rocks projod one behind
the other into the fea, with narrow Ifthmufes between : on the afcent of each arc llrong
dikes, placed tranfverfel}-, and a path leading towards the top ; and on fome parts are

* Xearll)'? place ij the dangerous I)ay of Sallego.

hollows.

PKNNANT's SliCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

a85

hollows, probably the lodginj^ of the occupiers. The lafl of thefe recks terminates in a
precipice over the lea, and was the dernier relbrt oF the defendants : fuch were the for-
tifications of the barbarous a»;cs : here were thead'ailants lucct^fsful, the garrifon had no
altcrnalive but to perilh by the edge of the fword, or to precipitate theinfelves into the
or.an.

Jn various parts of this nLighhourhood' arc fcattered fmall holes, formed in the
ground, large en(niQ;h to hold a fnv^le man in a fitting polhire : the topis covered with
abroad (lone, and that with earth: into thefe unhappy fugitives took melter after a de-
feat, and drawing tugctlicr fods, found a temporary concealment from enemies, who in
early times knew not the giving or receiving of quarter. The incurfions of barbarians
were always fhoit ; fo that the fugitives could ealily fubfifl in their earths till the dan-
ger was over. i\ien were then alniod in a Hate of nature : how ft rong was their re
feniblance tn beads of prey ! Th^; whole fccnery of this place was unfpeakably favage,
antl thi- inhabitants fuilable. l-'alcons fcreamcd inceflantly over our heads, and wc dif-
turbed the eajdes perched on the precipice.

Coininuf clamlv,i ing among the rocks impending over the fea, and fpilt by intervals
into chalins, narrow, black, and of a ftupendous depth ; whofe bottom appeared and dif-
appoared according to tiie momentary corulcations of the furious foam of the waves, roll-
ing from the heavy ocean. Proceed along a narrow path, furrounding the face of a
pron onfory hanging over the water, Ikipping nimbly over a way that fear alone could
make d mgtrous, laughing at a bulky companion whom the reft had diftanccd.

Defcend a deep tract, and found part of our company (who chofe a lefs pidurefquc
road in poffLnion of the fine cave of Saneg-mor : the entrance was difficult : but after
fome travel found the infide of an auguft extent and height j the roof folid rock, which
returned with the nolle of thunder, the dlfcharge of t-iir mufliets. Within this cavo
was another flrait bclbre us, with a fine arched entrance : feveral of the company had
got into it, and palling wiih their tapers backwards and forv.'ards, from rccefs to recefs,
appeared at our diUance like the gliiling fpedres of Shakefpeare in the pit of Acheron.
We followed, and found our grotto divided into numbers of far-winding paflagcs, fome-
time opening into fine expanfes, again clofing, for a long fpace, into galleries, paflable
but with difficulty : a pcrfoet fubtcrraneous labyrinth. A bagpiper preceded : at
times the whole fpace was filled with the found, which died away by degrees to a mere
murmur, and loon after again aftonlfhcd us with the bellowing, according as the mean-
ders conduced him to, or from our fingular (lations.

July 5. Tal- l.avo of the hol'pitable family of Sunderland: ride along a dlflorent
road acrofs the w...^i.l ; pals by feme cairns, and fome ancient fences on the heaths.
Reach the head of Loch-Druinaid, a place celebrated for the battle of Traii-dhruinard,
in 159S, between the lord of the iilos, and Sir Lauchlan Mac-loan, of Mull: the lafl,
with fifteen hundred mm, inv;idcd Hay, with a view of ufurping it ironi his nephew :
the firif had only eleven luuuhei.', and was at firft obliged to retreat till he was joinevl
by a hundred anil twenty frefh u^rces : this decided the engagement. Sir Lauchlan was
llain, with four-l'core of his jjilncipal kinfmen, and two iunulred of his foldlers, who
lay furrounding the body of their chiuftain. A ftone on the i'pot, was erccled in me-
mory of his lall.

Sir Lauchlan confultcd a witch, the oraclj of Mull, before he fet out on his expedi-
tion; and received tliree pieces of advice; fu-rr, not to land on a ThurfJay : a liorm
Jorced him into dilojcdience. The fecond, not to drink of a certain I'pring : which he
ilid through ignorance. The third, not to light befide Lcch-diuinarJ : but tliic the
latcs may be I'uppoicd to have d^tcriniaed.

Ride

I'll
A,

•85

fENNANT'a SliCONO TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Ride by Loch-finlagan, a narrow piece of water, celebrated for its ifie, a principal
rofulenci* of the great Mac-donald. The ruins of this place and chapel ftill exift, and
alio the (lone on which he ftood when he was crowned King of the ifles. This cuftom
fcems to have been common to the northern nations. The Danes * had their Kong<
ftolcn.

Thf ceremony, (after the new lord had collected his kindred and vaflals) was truly
patriarchal. After putting on his armour his helmet and his fword, he took an oath to
rule as his anccflors had done } that is, to govern as a father would his children : his
people in return fwore that they would pay the fame obedience to him as children would
their parent. The dominions of this potentate about the year 1586 confided only of
Hay, Jura, Knapdale and Cantyre. So reduced were they, from what they had been,
before the deprivation of the great Earl of Rofs, ia the rr ign of James III.

Near this is another little ille, where he afTembld.! his council : lilan na Corlle, or.
The ifland of council ; where thirteen judges condantly fat to decide differences among
his fubjefts ; and received for their trouble the eleventh part of the value of the affair
tried before them t-

In the firfl ifland were buried the wives and children of the lords of the ifles ; but
their own perfons were dcpofitcd in the more facred ground of Jona.

On the (hores of the lake arefome marks of the quarters of his Carnauch and Gilli.
glaffe?, the military of the ifles : the firft fignifying a ftrong man ; the laft, a grim look-
mg fellow. The firft were light armed, and fought *vith darts and daggers ; the laft
with Iharp hatchets J. Thole are the troops that Shakofpcarc alludes to, when he
fpcaks of a Donald, who

From the weilcrn ifles
' Of Kernes and Callow glafTes was fupplicd.

Upon the fhorc are remains of a pier, and on a ftone is cut, A. II. or, CEncas the
fecond, one of the lords of the ifles, in wl»ofe reign it was founded §. This proves fuf-
ficcntly that Mac-donald was not their general title, as fomc have imagined : the mil-
take arofefrom two of the name of Donald, who were moft remarkable for the ravages
they made in Scotland, in the reign of Edward Baliol, in 1368, and that of James I. in
1410. As the title is popular ftill in the ides, I chufe to continue what is fo much in

ufe.

Befidcs thofe already mentioned, the lords had a houfe and chapel at Laganon, on
the fouth fide of Loch-an-daal : a ftrong caftle on a rock in the fea, at Dunowaick, at
the fouth-eaft end ol'the country ; for they made this ifland their refidence after their
cxpulfion from that of Man, in 1304.

There is a tradition, that while the ifle of Man was part of the kingdom of the ifles,
that the rents were for a time paid in this country : thofe in filver were paid on a rock
ftill called Creig-a-nione, or the rock of the filver rent : the other, Creig-a-nairgid, or,
the rock of rents "n kind. Thcfe lie oppofite to each other, at the mouth of a harbour,
on the fouth fide of this ifland.

• Stophanis notae in fax. Gramm. iq.

f Tliefe were tlie Armin or Tieriia heads of the principal familin} who alfo aflifleJ the lord of the iilei
with their advice.

t Camden, •4»». , t^

J lioethius, 38J. Fordua fay«, that the lord of the ifles had here duas manfiones et Caitrum Domano-

rum,

»3

Return^

PXNNANT*9 SZCOWD TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

287

Return to Freeport, and go on board my veffel, now at anchor on the Jura fide of
the found in Whitefa lane bay. *

The ifle of Hay, Ifla, c, as it is called in Erfe, He, is of a fquare form, deeply in>
dented on the fouth by th.* great bay of Loch-an daal, divided from Jura, on the north-
cad, by the found which is noar fourteen miles long, and about one broad. The tides
the mofl violent and rapid ; the channel clear, excepting at the fouth entrance, where
there are fome rocks on the Jura fide.

The length of Hay, from the point of Ruval to the Mull of Kinoth, is twenty-eight
miles ; is divided into the parifhes of Kildalton, Kilarow, Kilchoman, and Kilmcnie.
The latitude • of Freeport, 55° 52' 29' N. The face of the ifland is hilly, but not
high : the loftieft hills arc Aird-iuifdail, Diur bheinn, and Sgarb-bhcin. The land in
many parts is excellent, but much of it is covered with heath, and abfolutcly in a
ftate of nature.

The produce is corn of different kinds ; fuch as bear, which fometimes yields eleven
fold, and oats fix fold ; a ruinous didilhition prevails here, infomuch that it is fuppofed
that more of the bear is drank in form of whiiky, than eaten in the fliape of bannocs.
"Wheat has been railed with good fucccfs in an inclofure belonging to the proprietor j
but in an open country where moft ol the cattle go at large, it is impoHlble to cultivate
that grain, and the tenants arc unable to inclofe. Much flax is raifed here, and about
2000I. worth, fold out of the ifland in yarn, which might be better manufadlured on
the fpot, to give employ to the poor natives.

A fet of people worn down with poverty ; their habitations fcenes of mifery, made of
loofe ftones, without chimnics, without doors, excepting the faggot oppofed to the
wind at one or other of the apertures, permitting the fmoke to efcape through the
other, in order to prevent the pains of f'ufibcation. 'fhe furniture perfedlly correfponds :
a pothook hangs from the middle of the roof, with a pot pendent over a gralelefs fire,
filled with fare that may rather be called a permifTion to exifl:, than a fupport of vigor-
ous life ; the inni.,tes, as may be expefted, lean, withered, dufky, and fmoked-dried.
But my picture i» not of this ifland only.

Notwithflanding lUc excellency of the land, above a thoufand pounds worth of
meal is annually imported, a famine threatened at this time, but was prevented by the
fcafonable arrival of a meal fhip ; and the inhabitants, like the fons of Jacob of old,
flocked down to buy food.

Ale is frequently made in this ifland of the young tops of heath, mixing two thirds
of that plant with one of malt, fometimes adding hops. Boethius relates that this liquor
was much ufed among the Picls, but when that nation was extirpated by the Scots, the
fecret of making it perifhed with them f.

The country blefl with fine manures ; bcfides fea-wrack, coral, fhell-fand, rock and
pit marie, it pofTefles a traft of thirty fix fquare miles of limeftone. What treafures,
if properly applied, to bring wealth and plenty into the ifland.

Numbers of cattle are bred here, and about feventecn hundred are annually exported
at the price of fifty fliillings each, 'f he ifland is often overl'locked, and numbers die
in March for want of fodder. None but milch cows are houfcd ; cattle of all other
kinds, except the faddle-horfes, run out during winter.

The number of inhabitants is computed to be between feven and eight thoufand.
About fcven hundred are employed in the mines and in the fifhcry ; the reft are

* I am greatly indebted to Dr. Lin;l for tlic true latitude ; and for a beautiful map of the Ifle from
which I tjke my meafurtituiits. I" Defer. Regiii Scotorum,

gentlemen.

■I .;if

.i|', ;i::,

:■'<?

a88

rtNNANT 8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

•A

gcnilcmfn-farmers, fubtcnants oj^fcrvants, The women fpin. Few as yet have ml-

'I'ho forvanfs arc paid in kinil ; the fixth part of the crop. They have houfos gratis:
the mailer piv*.';; them the feed tor the lirll year, and lends them horles to plouj^h an-
imally the himl annexed.

The air is lei's heahliy than that of Jura : the prefent epidemical difeafes arc dropfics
and eanccrp ; the iiaUual tlToit ■. oi l)ad l(.od.

'I'he qiiadiupids of tliis illand ww. (Icatv, wpufeK, n(t rs, and hares: the lafl fmall,
dark-coloured, and bail runners. Tlie bir.ln are ca;;l.s, p<'re}^rine falcons, black and
red giiiie, and a Vfry few ]njvmi'.',ans. Ivl brvadvl ^oof.iiulers breed on the (liore
anioni.^ the loofe IK c", wiUI }ve!'' in the moors. Herons in the ifland in Loch-i^uirni.
The lifli are plail'e, (nieardab, large dab;:, nuiIKts, bdlan, lump-iifli, black yoby,
greater draj;onit, aiu! tiial rare nihth' I.-i-adiigjilu- of M. (loii.ui.

Vipers fvvarm in the heath ; tli.; nat'ves retain the viil^uj- crr^ir of their (liiii^incj
with their forked tongues ; that a fword on which the poilbn has fallen will hil'j in
water like a red hot iron; i\nd th.at a p'udtice ot lunnan ordure is an infalliMo cure
for the bite.

In this illand fevcral antient dlv^-rfions and fuporOiiions are flill prefervcd ; the
lad indeed arc almolt extinct, or al moll lurk only among the very meanell of the
people.

The late wakes or funerals, like thofe of tfie Romans, were attended with (ports and
dramat'c entertainments, ctnnpoled of many parts, and the adors often champed their
ilrelles fuitable to their churaders. The fubjed of tlu ilrama was hillorical and pre-
ftrved by memory.

The adive (ports are wrcfllin';. Another i?. performed by jumpinvj on a pole held
up horizontally by two men ; the performer H^Iits on his knee,--, takes hold with both
hands, bends and kiffes it, and then fprin;:s oti". Me who (uccceds in tlie feat when the
poll is at highefl elevation, c;;rries the pii/. ■.

A locond i;ame of adivity is played bv tuo or three hundred, who form a circle :
and every one places his (lick in the ground belon; him by way of barrier. A pcrlon,
called the odd man, (lands in the iniddl.', and delivers his bonnet to any one in the
ring. This is tiimbly handed round, and the owner is to recover it ; and on fuccecd-
ing, takes the place of the perfon whom he took it from, and that perlon ai^ain takes
the middle place.

'ihere are two other trials of flrength : fu-ft, throwing the nodgehammer. The
other feems local, 'i'wo men (it on the ground foot to foot ; (arh lays hold of a (hort
Hick, and the champion that can pull the other over is the winnt r.

The power of fafcination is as Itrongly believed here as it v.a-o by the fliephcrds of
Italy in times of old :

Ntfcio (juia tcncros oculis milii fafcinat ajrn is ?

But here the power of the evil eye ad'eds more the miieh cov/s than lambs. If the
good houf'wile perceives the cHid of the malicirnis on any of her kine, (he takes as
much miik as (he can ihain from the enchanted herd, for the witch commonly leaves
very little. She then boils it with certain herb:-, and adds to them Hints and untem-
percd (b.el ; after tliat (lie iccures the door, and invokes the three facred perlbns. This
puts the witch into fuch an agony, that (he comes nilling-willing to the huul'e, begs to
beaduiittcd, to obtain relief by touching the powerful pot ; the good woman then

makes

rBNNANT'B SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. sSg

makes hor tenns ; the witch rcftorcs the milk to the cattle, and in return U freed from
her piins.

But (hmotimcs to favc the trouble of thofc charmR (for it may happen that the dif-
onlcr may arife from other caufcs than an evil-eye,) the trial is made by initncrging in
milk a certain herb, and if tiiu cows are fuper-naturally atfedleJ, it inlUiitly diilills
blood.

The iinfuccefsful lover revenges himfelf on his happy rival by charms potent as thofo
of the (hepherd Alphcfibicus, and cxaflly fimilar :

Nr^c tn'but nodii ternoi Amirylli colore! :
Nc(fle AmaryUi mndo.

Donald takes throe threads of different hues, and ties three knots on each, three
times imprecatini; the mod cruel difappointments on the nuptial bed : but the bride-
groom to avert tne harm, Hands at the altar with an untied (hoe, and puts a fixpence
beneath his foot.

A prefent was made rae of a dach clun ceilach, or cock-knee (lone, believed to
be obtained out of that part of the bird ; but I have unluckily forgotten its virtues.
Not fo with the clach crubain, which is to cure all pains in the joints. It is to be
prefumed both thefe amulets have been enchanted ; for the (ird very much refembles
a common pebble, the other is that fpccies of foHil (hell called Grypnites.

I was alfo favoured wuth rc\ ^ -al of the nuts, commonly called Molucca beans, which
are frequently found on the wedern (hores of this and others of the Hebrides. They
are the feeds of the Doliehos ureniy Guilandina Bonduc. G. Bondttcettay and m'tmofa fcari'
dens of Linnaeus, natives of Jamaica. The fifth is a feed called by Bauhin,/r«<!7Mj exot :
crbkularis fulcis nervifque quatuor^ whofe place is unknown. The four firft grow in
quantities on the Itecp banks of the rivers of Jamaica, and arc generally fuppofed to
drop into the water, and to be carried into the fea ; from thence by tides and currents,
and the predominancy of the eaft wind, to be forced through the gulf of Florida into
the North American ocean, in the fame manner as the SargalTo, a plant growing on
the rocks in the feas of Jamaica. When arrived in that part of the Atlantic, they fall
in with the wederly winds, which generally blow two-thirds of the year in that traft ;
which may help to convey them to the (hores of the Hebrides and Orknies*. I was
for refolving this phenomenon into (hipwrecks, and fuppofmg that they might have been
flung on thefe coafts out of fome unhappy velTels j but this folution of mine is ab«
folutely denied, from the frequency and regularity of the appearance of thefe feeds.
American tortoil'es, or turtles, have more than once been taken alive on thele coads,
tempeft-driven from their warm feas ; and part of the maft of the Tilbury man of war,
burnt at Jamaica, was taken up on the vreltern coaft of Scotland , fafts that give pro-
bability to the (irll opinion.

Hiftory lurniihes very few materials for the great events or revolutions of Hay. It
feems to have been long a feat of empire, probably jointly with the ifle of Man, as
being mod convenienny fituated for the government of the red of the Hebrides ;
for Crovan the Norwegian, after his conqued of that idand in 1066, retired and
finifhod his days in Hay f. There are more Dani(h or Norwegian names of places in
this ifland than any other; almod all the prefent farms derive their titles from them,
fuch as Perfibus, Torridale, Torribolfe, and the like. On the retreat of the Danes it
became the feat of their fuccelTors, the lords of the ifles, and continued after their

m
f i

■ I i

'4m

•rl

* ; i

■ ' i '

VOL. in.

♦ FLil. Tranf. abridged, iii, 540.

•)• Chron. Man.

■s •■is

powe*

29©

pennant's SECONB tour JN SCOTLANtJr

power was broken, in the reign of James III. in their defcendants, the Mac-donalds,
who held, or ought to have held it from the crown. It was in the poffeflTion of a Sir
James Mac-donald, in the year 1598, the fame who won the battle of Traii-dhruinard
before mentioned. His power gaye umbrage to James VI. who direfted the Lord of
Mac-lcod, Cameron of Lochiel, and the Mac-neiles of Barrn, to fupport the Mac-
leanes in another invafion. The rival parties met near the hill of Bjn-bigger, eaft of
Kilarow; a fierce engagement enfued, and the Macdonalds were defeated, and almofl
entirely cut oil". Sir James efcapcJ to Spain ; but returned in 1 620, was pardoned,
received a penfion, and died the fiime year at Glaigow, and in him expired the lafl of
the great Macdonalds. But the King, irrigated by the dillurbances raifed by private
wars, waged between thefe and other clans, rcfumed * the grant made by his prede-
ceffor, and transferred it to Sir John Campbel of Calder, who lield it on paying an
annual feu-duty of five hundred pounds flerling, which is paid to this day. The ifland
was granted to Sir John, as a reward for his undertaking the conqueft, but the family
confidered it as a dear acquifition, by the lofs of many gallant followers, and by the
expences incurred in fupport of it. At prefent it is in pofleflion of Mr. Campbel, of
Shawfield, and the rents are about 2300I. per annum.

July 6. TVeigh anchor at three o'clock in the morning; with the afTiftance of the
tide get out of the Sound. See on the north-weft fide the place where that gallant
enemy Thurot lay, at different times, expecting the fit opportunity of his invafion, to
be determined by the news he had of the fuccefs of the Brcft fquadron. He was told
that he lay in a dangerous place ; but he knew that his fecurity confiftcd, in cafe a
fuperior force came againll him, in being able eiiher to take to fea, or efcape through
the Sound, according to the quarter the attack came from. His goncrofity and hu-
manity are fpoken of in high terms by iheiilandtrs ; and iiis ilidrois appeared very deep
when he was informed of the niifcarriage of C.Dnflan's flc'tl.

Leave on tlie coalt of Hay, neiu* the n-.ovith of the Sound, the celebrated cave of
Uarah-Fhearnaig, or Uam-nihor. Fourteen or fifteen families retire to it during the
fine fcafon, as their fhcelins, or fummer refidence, and three families refide in it the
whole year.

About eight or nine milts from the mouth of the Sound lie the iflesof Oranfay and
Colo:ilay. The ftillnef'i of the day made the paffage tedious, which induced us to take
boat; the view midway was very fine of Hay ami Jura, of the opening into Loch-
Tarbat, a bay penetrating deep into Jura, and affording anchorage for large vefl'els; as
was experienced a very few years ago by one of eight hundred tons, driven in during
night : the mafter found an opening, and palTed providentially between two rocks, at
a fmall diftance from each other ; and, finding himfelf in fmooth water, dropped an-
chor, and lay fccure in a fine natural wet dock. A difcovery worthy the attention of
mariners f.

Beyond Jura appears the gulph of Corry-vrekan, bounded by the ifle of Skarba ;
the mountains cf Mull fucceed ; and before us extend the fhorcs of the two iflands,
the immediate objedfs of our vifit. Land about one o'clock on Oranfay ; the fhip ar-
rives foon after, and anchors within Ghudimal, which, with two or three other little
rocky ifles, forms a harbour.

• Ftuds of the Iflc«i 99.

i Mariners liave ovcilooktd tin? account of this harbour given by Ahxandcr Lindfay, pilot to Jamri V.
in hii ravicdtijn round Scotiatid, in 1^36, wlio proiio\inccs it to have good anchorage. Jnnui In perfon
executed iTii- ^rcat dcfigii of taking charto of tlic coafts of hit dominium, and founding ilic mull dillant
and djngtrc'j! rockj.

8 After

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

291,

After about a mile's walk reach the ruins of the antient moiiaftcry, founded (as
fonie fliy) by St. Coluniba, but with more probability by one of the Lords of the ifles,
who fixed here a priory of canons regular of Auguftinc, dependent on the abby of
VIoIyrond in Edinburgh. The cl.urch is fifty-nine feet by eighteen, and contains the
tombs of numbers of the antient iilanders, two of warriors recumbent, feven feet long :
a flattery perhaps of the fculptor, to give to future ages exalted notions of their prowels.
Befides thefe, are fcattered over the floor leflcr figures of heroes, priefls and females ;
tjie lafl feemingly of fome order : and near them is a figure, cut in ftone, of full fize,
apparently an abbefs.

In a fide chapel, beneath an arch, lies an abbot, of the name of Mac-dufie, with fwo
of his fingers elated, in the attitude of benedirtion : in the fame place is a flone enriched
with foliage, a flag furrounded with dogs, and a Ihip with full fail : round is infcribed,
*' Hie jacet Murchardus Mac-dufie de Collonfa, An. Do. 1539, menfe mart, ora me ille.
ammen."

This Murchardus is faid to have been a great oppreffor, and that he was executed,
by order of the Lord of the ifles, for his tyranny. Near his tomb is a long pole, placed
there in memory of the enfign-ftafFof the family, which had been prcferved miraculoufly
for two hundred years : on it (report fays) depended the fate of the Mac-dufian race,
and probably the original perifhed with this Murchardus.

Adjoining to the church is the cloifter, a fquare of forty-one feet : one of the fides
of the inner wall is ruined ; on two of the others are feven low arches, one feven feet
high including the columns, which iire nothing more than two thin ftones *, three feet
high, with a flat ftone on the top of each, ferving as a plinth ; and on them two other
thin ftones, meeting at top, and forming an acute angle, by way of arch : on the fore-
fide are five finall round arches ; thefe furround a court of twenty-eight feet eight
inches. This form is peculiar (in our part of Europe) to this place ; but 1 am told that
the fame is obferved in fome of the religious houfes in the iflands of the Arf hipelago.

Several other buildings join this, ajl in a ruinous ftate ; but a moft elegant crofs is
yet ftanding, twelve feet high, one fcot feven broad, five inches thick.

St. Columba, when he left Ireland, made a vow never to fettle within fight of his
native country : accordingly when he and his friend Oran landed here, they afcended
a hill, and Ireland appeared in full view. This induced the holy men to make a fudden
retreat; but Oran had the honour of giving name to the ifland.

July 7. Afcend the very hill that the faint did : lofty and craggy, inhabited by red-^
billed choughs and ftares. On the top is a retreat of the old inhabitants, protected by
a ftrong ftone dike and advanced works. On the plain below is a large round mount,
flat at top, on which had probably been a fmall Danifli fort, fuch as are frequently feen
in Ireland. Nearer the ftjore in the eaft fide of the ifland is a large conic tumulus ; and
on the fame plain, a fmall crofs placed, where a Mac-dufie's corps is faid to have relied.
1 Take a boat and vifit Bird ifland, and fome other rocks divided by narrow paflages,
filled by a moft rapid tide. Saw feveral eider ducks and fome Ihieldrakes. The
iflanders ncgletl; to gather the down of the former, which would bring in a little
money.

This ic the bird called by the dean of the ifles colk. From the circumftance of its
depluming its breail, he fables that, " at that time her flciche of fedderis falleth of her
hailly, and fuylos to the mayne fea againe, and never comes to land quhyll the zeir end
again, and then (he comes with her nev fleiche of fedderis ; this fleiche that flie leaves
reirly upon her nelt hes nae pens in the fedderis, hot utter fine downes."

* Oil one ol tlicfc tlicic ij an inscription, which was copied, 'lut by fome accident loft.

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29a

pennant's SnCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

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i

The feals are here numerous : a few are caught in nets placed between thefe rockc.
The great fpecies is taken on Du hirtach, a great rock about a mile round, ton leagues
to the weft ; reported to be the neareft of any to America.

Oranfay is three miles long ; the fouth part low and fandy, the reft high and rocky :
is divided from Colonfayby a narrow found dry at low water. This ifland is a fingle
farm, yielding bear, flax, and much potatoes, which are left in their beds the whole
winter, covered with fea-wrack, to protect them from the froft. The manure is (hell
fand and wrack : the laft laid on grafs will produce but one crop ; on corn-land it will
produce two. Sixty milch cows are kept here ; and this year eighty head of cattle
were fold from the ifland at throe pounds a-piece : fome butter and cheefe are alio
exported.

This ifland is rented by Mr. Mac-Neile, brother to the proprietor of both iflands.
The rent is not more than forty pounds a year ; yet according to the cullom of the
ifles, the farm employs a number of fervants, viz. a chief labourer, who has fifty fliil-
lings a year, and a (tone of meal per week ; a principal hordfman, whofe wages are grafs
for two cows, and meal fufficient for his family ; a cow-herd, who has twenty-four
fhillings a year and fhoes ; one under him, whofe wages are about fixteen fhillings ;
and a calf-herd, who is allowed ten fliillings. Befides thefe are two other men, called
from their employ aoircannan, who have the charge of cultivating a certain portion of
land, and alfo overfeeing the cattle it fupports : thefe have grafs for two milch cows
and fix fheep, and the tenth flieaf, the produce of the ground, and as many potatoes as
they chufe to plant. The maid fervants are a houfekeeper, at three pounds a year ; a
principal dairy maid, twelve marks Scots each half year j and five other women, five
marks.

Crofs the found at low water, and enter the ifland of Colonfay, twelve miles long,
three broad, full of rocky hills, running tranfverfcly, with variety of pretty meandering
Tales full of grafs, and moft excellent for pafturage. Even the hills have plenty of
herbage mixed with the rock. The vallies want inclofures and want woods, the com-
mon dcfedl of all the Hebrides : thev yield bear and potatoes ; much of the firft is ufed
in diftillation, to the very ftarving 0/ the iflanders, who are obliged to import meal for
their fubfiftence. About two hundred and twenty head of cattle are annually exported
at 3I. each. In 1736 the price was only five-and-twcnty fliillings ; but the rife cci-
menced two years after the rebellion. Ytt even this advance does not enrich the people
of this pretty ifland, for their whole profit is exliaufled in the purchafe of bread, which
their own induftry ought to fupply.

Oats are fown here about the middle of April, and yield three and a half. Bear pro-
duces eightfold. Forty orfiftv tons ol kelp an; annually made in both iflands. The
materials are coUefted on the mores in the middle of April, and the kelp exported in
Augull, at the rate of 3I. iop. or 4I. per ton.

. Their poverty prevents them from ufing the very means Providence has given them
of raifing a comfortable fubfiftence. They have a good foil, plenty of limeflone, and
fuflicient quantity of peat. A fea abounding with fifii ; but their diilrefl'ed ftate difables
them from cultivating the one, and taking the other. Thefe two iflands contain eight
thoufand four hundred acres, of which about two thoufand fix hundred are arable.
How inadequate then is the produce of cattle ; and how much more (o is that of corn !

The foil of this ifland is far fiiperior in goounefs to that of Oranfay ; yet how dif-
proporfionably lefs arc the exports : Oranfay owes its advantages to the good manage-
ment of the tenant.

pennant's skcond tour in scotlantj.

253

111 both illaiuls arc between five and fix hundred Ibuls. The old inabitants were the
Miic-dufics and the Mac-vurechs. The firft were chief: " This iHe (fays the dean) is
brukit beane gentle capitane callit Mae-dufyke and pcrtcncd of auld to Clandonald of
Kyntyre," and it is no'v brukit be ane gentle capitane callit Mac-neile, who has never
raifed his rents, has preferved the love of his people, and loll but a fingle family by mi-
gration.

This Ifland, fince the time of the dean, wa§ the property of the Argyle family, who
fold it to an anceftor of the prefent proprietor about fixty years ago. 1 conjefture that
the ancient owner might have forfeited by engaging in the lafl rebellion of the Mac-
donalds ; and that it was included in the large grant of iflands made to the Campbels,
in reward for their fervices.

Met with nothing very interefting in the ride. Pafs by a chain of finall lakes, called
Loch-fad, by two great ereft Itones monumental, at Cil chattan, and by a ruined chapel.
There are three others ; but notwithltanding, from this circumflance, Oranf.iy and Co-
lonfay might be fuppoied to have been ifles of fandity, yet from the reformation till
within the lafl: fix years, the facrament had been only once admiuiftcred.

Reach Cil-oran, the feat of the proprietor, Mr. Mac-neile, who entertained us with
much politcnefs. His houfe is well-iheltered, and trees grow very vigoroufly in its
neighbourhood. There is fcarcely an illand, where vallies protefted from winds may
not be found, in which trees might be planted to great advantage. Afli and maple
would fucceed particularly well ; and in many places the befl kinds of willows would
turn to good account, and produce a manufacture of bafkets and hampers, articles our
commercial towns have a great demand for.

Rabbits abound here j about a hundred and twenty dozen of their fkins are annually
exported.

Bemaclcs appear here in vaft flocks in September, and retire the latter end of April
or beginning of May. Among the domeltic fowls I obfervod peacocks to thrive well in
the farm at Oranfay ; fo far north has this Indian bird been naturalized.

Neither frogs, toads, nor vipers are found here ; or any kind of ferpent, except the
harmlefs blind-worm.

I met with no remarkable fofTils. Black talc, the mica lamellata martialis nigra of
Cronfted, fed. 95, is found here, both in large detached flakes, and immerfed in indu-
rated clay. Alfo rock (lone formed of glimmer and quartz. An imperfed granite is
not unfrequent.

July 8. In the morning walk down to the eaflern coaft of the ifland, to a creek
guarded by the little rocky iOe of Olamfay, where fmall vefl'els may find flielter. Find
Mr. Thompfon plying off at a mile's diftance. Go on board, and fail for Jona. The
lofty mountains of Mull lay in the front : the eaftern views were Hay, Jura, Scarba,
and the entrance of the gulph of Corryvrekan ; beyond lies Lorn, and at a diftance
fours the high hill of Crouachan.

Steer to the north-weft ; but our courfe greatly delayed by calms : take numbers
of grey gurnards in all depths of water, and find young herrings in their ftomachs.

Towards evening arrive within fight of Jona, and a tremendous chain of rocks lying
to the fouth of it, rendered more horrible by the perpetual noife of breakers. Defer
our entrance into the found till day-light.

July 9. About eight of the clock in the morning very narrowly efcape ftriking on
the rock Bonirevor, apparent at this time by the breaking of a wave : our maftcr was
at foiac dilUnce in his boat, in fcarch of fea-fowl, but alarmed with the danger of his

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vcffel, was haflening to Its rclitf ; but the tide conveyed us out of reach of the rod;,
and Hived him the trouble of landing us, for the weather was fo cahnasto froc us from
nii^f apprehcnfiDns about our lives. After tiding for three hours, anchor in the found
of Jona, in three fathoms water, on a white fandy bottom ; but the fafefl anchorage ii
on the oaft fide, between a little ille and that of Mull : this found is three miles long
and one broad, (hallow, and in foine parts dry at the ebb of fpring tides : it is bounded
on the ealt by the illand of i\lull ; on the weft by that of Jona, the mod celebrated of the
Hebrides.

Multitudes of gannets were now fifliing here : they precipitated themfelvcs from a
vaft height, plunged on their prey at leaft two fathoms deep, and took to the air again
ns foon as the V emerged. Their fonfe of feeing mull be exquifite; but they are ofttii
dt'ceived, for Mr. Thompfon informed methathe had frequently taken them by placing
a herring on a hook, and finking it a fathom deep, which the gannet plunges for and is
taken.

The view of Jona \'ttas very piflurefque : iho e:\ft fide, or that which bounds the found,
exhibited a beautiful variety ; an extent of plain, a little elevated above the water, and
ahnoft cove/ed with the ruins of the facrcd buildings, and with the remains of the old
town Hill inhabited. Beyond thcfe the illand rifes into little rocky hills, with narrow
verdant hollows between ("for they merit not the name of vallies), and numerous enough
for every reclufc to take his folitary walk, undifturbed by fociety.

The illand belongs to the parifli of Rofs,in Mull ; is three miles long and one broad ;
the eafl fide nioftly flat ; the middle rifes into fmall hills; the weft fide very rude and
rocky ; the whole is a fingular mixture of rock and fertility.

The foil is a compound of fand and comminuted fca fhells, mixed with black loam ;
is very favourable to the growth of bear, natural clover, crowsfoot, and daifies. It is
in perpetual tillage, and is ploughed thrice before the fowing : the crops at this time
made a promifing appearance, but the feed was committed to the ground at very dif-
ferent times ; fomc, I think, about the beginning of May, and fome not three weeks
ago. Oats do not fuccecd here ; but flax and potatoes come on very well. I am in-
formed that the ioil in Col, Tir-I, and North and South Uirt, is fimilar to that in Jona.

Ihe tenants here run-rig, and have the pafturagc in common. It fupports about a
hundred and eight head of cattle, and about five hundred flieep. There is no heath in
this ifland : cattle unufed to that plant give bloody milk ; which is the cafe with the
cattle of Jona tranfported to Mull, where that vegetable abounds; but the cure is foon
efFefted by giving them plenty of water.

Servants are paid here commonly with a fourth of the crop, grafs for three or four
cows and a few flieep.

The number of inhabitants is about a hundred and fifty : the moft flupid and the
moft lazy of all the illanders ; yet many of them boaft of their defceut from the com-
panions of St. Coluniba.

A few of the more common birds frequent this ifland : wild geefe breed here, and
the young arc often reared and tamed by the natives.

The beautiful fea-buglofs makes the fhores gay with its glaucous leaves and purple
flowers. The eryngo, or fea-holly,is frequent; and the fatal belladonna is found here.

The granites durus rubcfcens, the fame with the Egyptian, is found in Nuns-ifle, and
on the coaft of Mull : a breccia quartzofa, of a beautiful kind, is common ; and the
rocks to the fouth of the bay of Martyrs is formed of the Swedifli trapp, ufeful to glafs-
makers *.

* Cronllcd, No. cdxvii.

Jona

pennant's second tour in scotlanb. a95

Jona derives its name from a Hebrew word fignifying a dove, in allui'ion to the name
0f the great faint, Columba, the founder of its fiimc. This holy man, inftigated by his
zcaV )cft his native country, Ireland, in the year 565, with the pious defign of preaching
the gofpel to the'Picts. It appears that he left his native foil with warm refentmenr,
vowing never to make a fettloincnt within fight of that hated ifland. He made his firfL
trial at Oranfay, and on finding that place too near Ireland, fucceeded to his wi(h at
Hy, for that was the name of Jona at the time of his arrival. He repeated here the ex-
periment on fevcral hills, erecting on each a heap of ftoncs ; and that which he laft
afcended is to this day called Caraan-chul-i-eh-Eirinn, or tht- eminence of the back
turned to Ireland.

Columba was ibon diftinguiflied by the fandity of his manners: a miracle that he
wrought fo operated on the Piftifh king, Braduus, that he immediately made a prefent
of the little ifle to the i'auit. It feems that his majcfty had refuied Columba an audi-
ence, and even proceeded fo far as to order the palace gates to be fliut againft him } but
the faint, by the power of his word, inltantly caufed them to fly open.

Asfoon as he was in poiTefTion of Jona he founded a cell of monks, borrowing his
inditutions from a certain oriental monadic order *. It is faid th:it the firft religious
were canons regular, of whom the founder was the firft abbot ; and that his monks, till
the year 716, differed from thofe of the church of Rome, both in the obfervation of
Eafter, and the clerical tonfure. Columba led here an exemplary life, and was highly
refpefted for the fanftity of his manners for a confiderable number of years. He is
the firft on record who had the faculty of fecond-fight, for he told the victory of Aidan
over tlie Pifts and Saxons on the very inftant it happened. He had the honour of bu-
rying in this ifland Convallns and Kinnatil, two kings of Scotland, and of crowning a
third. At length, worn out with age, he died, in Jona, in the arras of his difciples ; was
interred there, but (as the Irilh pretend) in after times tranflated to Down, where, ac-
cording to the epitapli, his remains were depofited with thofe of St. Bridget and St.
Patrick.

Hi tres in Diino tumiilo uimulantur in uno ;
Jjrigida, Palricius, atque Columba plus.

But this is totally denied by the Scots ; who affirm that the contrary is fhewn in the
life of the faint, extracted out of the pope's library, and tranflated out of the Latin into
Erfe, by father Cal-o-horan, which decides in favour of Jona the momentous difpute f.'

After the death of St. Columba, the illand received the name of Y-columb-cill, or
the ifle of the cell of Columba. In procefs of time the ifland itfelf was perfonified, and
by a common blunder in early times converted into a faint, and worfliipped under the
title of St. Columb-killa.

The religious continued unmolefted during two centuries ; but in the year 807 were
attacked by the Danes, who with their ufual barbarity put part of the monks to the
fword, and obliged the remainder, v^-ith their abbot Cellach, to feek fafety by flying
from their rage. Tlie monaftery remained depopulated for feven years ; but on the
retreat of the Danes received a new order, being then peopled by Ckmiacs, who con-
tinued there till the diflblution, when the revenues were united to the fee of Argyle.

Took boat and landed on the fpot called the Buy of M.irtyrs, the place where the
bodies of thofe who were to be interred in this holy ground were received during the
period of fuperftition.

T.'

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• Sir Roger Twifden's Rife of Monaftic States, 36.

f U. S. in Advoc. L'br. 1693.

Walked

»»95

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

' Walked about a quarter of a mile to the fouth, in order to fix on a convenient fpot
for pitching a rude tent, formed of oars and fails, as our day refidence, during our Itav
on the ifland.

Obftrvc a little beyond an oblong Inclofure, bounded by a flone dike, called Claoh-
nan Druinach, and fuppofed to have been the burial-place of the Druids, for boms of
various fizes are found there. 1 have no doubt but ihat druidilin was the original reli-
gion of this place ; yet I (uppofe this to have been rather the 'common cemetery of the
people of the town, which lies almoft clofe to the bay of Martyrs.

Having fettled the bufuiefs of our tent, return through the town, confiding at pre-
fcnt of about fifty houfes, molHy very mean, thatched with ftraw of bear pulled up by
the roots, and bound tight on the roof with ropes made of heath. Some of the houfes
that lie a little beyond the reft Teemed to have been better conftruded than the others,
and to have been the manfions of the inhabitants when the place was in a flourilliing
ftate, but at prefent are in a very ruinous condition.

Vifit every place in the order that they lay from the village. The firfl: was the ruin
of the nunnery, filled with canonefles of St. Auguftme, and confecratcd to St. Oian.
They were permitted to live in community fur a confiderabie time after the reforma-
tion, and wore a white gown, and above it a rotchtt of fine linen •.

The church was fifty-eight f^et by twenty: the roof of the eaft end is entire, is a
pretty vault>nade of very thin fton s, bound together by four ribs meeting in the centre.
The floor is covered fome feet thick with cow-dung ; this place being at prefent the
common (belter for the cattle ; and the ifl.mders are too l.i/j;y to remove this fine ma-
nure, the colleftion of a century, to enrich their grounds.

With much difficulty, by virtue of fair words and a bribe, prevail on one of thefe
liftlefs fellows to remove a great quantity of this dunghill, and by that means once more
expofe to light the tomb of the lall priorefs. Her figure is cui on the face of the ftone ;
an angel on each fide fupports her head ; and above them is a little plate and a comb.
The priorefs occupies only one half of the furface ; the other is filled with the form of
the Virgin Mary, with head crowned and mitred ; the child in her arms ; and to denote
her Queen of Heaven, a fun and moon appear above. At her feet is this addrefs, from
the priorefs : " Sancla Maria ora pro me." And round the latly is infcribed • " Hie
jacet Domina Anna Donaldi Terleti f filia quondam priorilTa dc Jona quae obiit an o m"
d° xi"" ejus animan altiflimo commendamus "

Mr. Stuart, who fome time paft vifited this place, informed me that at that time he
obferved this fragment of another infcription : " Hie jacet Mariota filia Johan : Lauch-
lani Domini de . . . ."

Befidcs this place of fepulture, was another on the outfide, allotted for the nuns ;
where, at a refpedable diliance from the virtuous rcclufes, lies in folitude a frail filler.

Uhis nunnery could never have been founded (as fome aflbrt) in the days of St. Co-
lumba, who was no admirer of the fair fex: in lac\ he held them in fuch abhorrence, that
hedeteftcd all cattle on their account, and would not permit a cow to come within fight
of his facred walls ; becaufe " 'Sfar am hi bo, bi'dh bean, 'Sfar am bi bean, bi'dh
mallacha :" " Where there is a cow, there muft be a woman; and where there is a
woniun, there mull be miichiet."

Advance from hence along abroad paved way, which is continued in a line from the
nunnery to ti^c cathedral : ant)ther branches from it to the bay of Martyrs ; and a third,
xurruwer than the others, points towards the hills.

• Ktitli, 280.

+ Oi- Charlei.

UNKANT's second tour 1M aCOTLAKD.

•97

On tlvs road is a large and elegant crofs, called that of Maclcane, one of three hun-
dred and fixty that were {landing in this ifland at the reformation *, but immediately
after were almoft entirely demoliflied by order of a provincial aflembly, held in the
ifland. It feems to have been cuftomary in Scotland for individuals to ereft croffes,
probably in confequence of fome vow, or perhaps out of a vain hope of perpetuating
their memory.

Arrive at Reilig Ourain, or the burying-place of Oran, a vaft enclofure ; the great
place of interment for the number of monarchs who were depofited here, and for the
potentates of every ifle, and their lineage; for all were ambitious of lying in this holy
ipot. The place is in a manner filled with grave-ftones, but fo overgrown with weeds,
efpecially with the common butter-bur, that very few are at prefent to be feen.

I was very dofirous of viewing the tombs of the kings, defcribed by the Dean of the
ifles, and from him by Buchanan : the former fays f, that in his time there were three,
built in form of little chapels ; on one was infcribed, ** Tumulus RegUm Scotiae.**
In this were depofited the remains of forty-eight Scottifh monarchs, beginning with
Fergus II., and ending with the famous Macbeth : for his fucceffor, Malcolm Canmore,
decreed for the future Dumferline to be the place of royal fepulture \. Of the Scottilh
monarchs interred in Jona, fixteen are pretended to be of the race of Alpin, and are
Itylcd, Righrid Ailpeanach.

Fergus was the founder of this maufoleum (Boethius calls it abbatia %), and not only
direded that it fliould be the fepulchre of his fucceflbrs, but alfo caufed an office to be
compofed for the funeral ceremony.

The next was infcribed, " Tumulus Regum Hiberniae," contaiiung four Irilh mo-
narchs; and 'he third, " Tumulus Regum Norwegise," containing eight Norwegian
princes, or more probably viceroys, of the Hebrides, while they were fubjeft to that
crown.

That fo many crowned heads, from different nations, fhould prefer this as the place
of their interment,' is faid to have been owing to an ancient prophecy :

Seachd bliadiia roimh'n bhrak
Thig miiit tliar Eirin re aon tra'
iitliar lie ghu irm ghlais
Ach Snamhaidh I cholum clalrich.

Which is to this effeft : " Seven years before the end of the world a deluge fiiall
drown the nations : the fea, at one tide, fhall cover Ireland, and the green-headed Hay |
but Columba's ifle (hall fwim above the flood."

But of thefe celebrated tombs we could difcover nothing more than certain flight
remains, that were built in a ridged form, and arched within ; but the infcriptions were
loft. Thefe are called Jomaire nan righ, or the ridge of the kings. Among thefe
flones were found two with Gaelic infcriptions, and the form of a crofs carved on each i
the words on one were, " Cros Domhail Fat'afich," or the crofs of Donald Long-
Ihanks ; the other fignified the crofs of Urchvine o Guin. The letters were thofe of
the moft ancient Irifli alphabet, exhibited in Valiancy's Irifli grammar.

Among the fame rtones is alfo the following : " Hie jacent quatuor priores de— ex
una natione V : Johannes, Hugonius, Patricius : in decretis olim Bacularius, alter Hu-
gonius II qui obiit an. Dom. millel's^" quingenteflimo."

• Short Defer, of Jonn, 1693. Advoc. Libr. M. S. f ?• '9' t Boethius, lib. vii. p. itu

^ Lib. vii, p. 119. I! Correfted by Jolm Lloyd, Efq. of Wyg-fair, Flintfliire.

VOL. HI. Q Q I am

:ii$^

'5 -i";

::''*«

(;

098 PtNNANT's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

I am indebted to Mr. Stuart for thefc ihrcc infcriptioiis, which he met vith in his
former voya;^e ; nrrivinp; before the growth of the all-covoring weeds. Mr. Frazier,
fon to the Dean of ths iflv'>, informed Mr. Sach.'verel, governor of the iflc of Man, who
vifited Jona in »688, that his father liad colleded there three hundred iufcriptions, and
prefented them to the Earl of Arg) Ic ; which were afterwards loll in the troubles of
the family.

'l"he chapel of St. Oran ftands in this fpace, which legend reports to have been the
firfl building attempted by St. Coluuiba } by the working of fomc evil fpirit, the walls
fell down as fall as they were built up.

After fome confultation it was pronounced, that they never would be permanent till
a human vi6lim was buried alivo : Oran a companion of the faint, generouQy oll'ered
himfelf, and was interred accordini;ly : at the end of three days St. Columba had the
curiofity to take a farewell look at his old friend, and caufed the earth to be removed.
To the furprize of a'l beholders, Oran Itarted up, and b^^gan to reveal the fecrets of
his prifoH-houfe; and particularly declared, that all that had been laid of hell was a
mere joke. This dangerous impiety fo fliocked Columba, that, with great policy, he
iiiltanily ordered the earth to be flung in again ; poor Oran was overwhelmed, and an
end for ever put to his prating. His grave is near the door, diflinguiHied only by a plain
red flonc.

Bocthius * gives us reafon to fuppafe, before this period, Jona to have been the
habitation of the weird fillers and cacodiEinons j for King Natholocus, like Saul of old,
confulted in this ifland an old witch, of unconmion fame : no wonder, therefore, that
the prince of darknefs fhoulJ be iutereilcd in the overthrow of edifices that were to
put an end to his infliit nee.

In Oran's chapel are feveral tum').<:, and near it many more : within, beneath a re-
cefs formed with three neat pointed arches, is a tomb-lloiie withafliip and feveral orna-
ments. I forgot whether the fails were furled ; in that cafe the d ceafed was d;;rcended
from the ancient Kings of Man of the Norwegian f race, who ufed ihofearms.

Near the fouth end is the tomb of ihe abbot Mackiiinan's father, inl'cribed, Ihccefl
crux Lauchlani Mc. Fingon et ejus (ilii Johannis Abbatis de lly. faCia an. 13o. 11. m >+ +
cccclxxxix.

Another of MacdonaKl of Hay and Cantyre, commonly called JnIUl^^, or Angus oig,
the chief of the name. He was a (trong friend to Robert Bruce, and was with liiiu
at the battle of Bannockbourne. His infcription is, Hie jacet corpus Angufii iilii
Domini Angufii Mc. Domhnill de I'ay.

In another place lies the grave-flone of Ailean Nan Sop, a Ceatharnarch, or head of
a party, of the name of Macleane ; from whom is defceuded the family of Torloifg.
The Itone is ornamented with carving and a fhip.

A Macleane, of Col, appears in armour with a fword in his left hand. A Macleane
of IJuart, with armour, (hield and two-handed fword. And a third, of the lun»e name
of the family of L-jchbuy : his right hand grafps a piltol, his Lfi a fword. Befides
thele, are numbers of other ancient heru.s, whole very names i;ave peiifhed, -.iid they
deprived of their expeiled glory : their lives were, like the path of an arrow, doled up
and loll asfoon as pall ; and projajly in ihole times of barbaiiim, as futalto tlieir fel-
low creatures.

About le\enty feet fouth of the chapel is a red uiipolifliod flone : beneath which lies
a namtlefs King oi riauec. But the memory of the famous old dotitcrof Mull has had

Lib. vi. y yo.

f Doctor Miitj>hi I l"cn.

a better

FENNANT 3 3EC0KD TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

499

a better rate, and is preferred in thele words : Hie jacct Johannes Bctonus Maclenorum
tamilire, medicus, qui niortuus ell: 19 Novembris 1657. JEt. 6y Donaldus Betonua
fecit. 1674.

Ecre cailit jiirulo virtricil moUi« in'qux (
CJi)i lotic* alois folverac ipfe malia.
Soli Deo Gloria.

A little north weft of the door is the pcdcftal of a crofs : on it arc certain (tones,
that fecm to have been the fupport of a tomb. Numbers who vifit this ifland (I fup-
pole thcelcd impatient for the confinnmation of all things) think it incumbent un them
to turn each of thefe thrice round, according to the courfe of the fun. They are called
Clacha-brith ; for it is thought that the briith, or end of the world, will not arrive till
the ftonc on which they (land is worn through. Originally, fays Mr. Sachcverel,
here were thrco noble globes, of white marble, placed on three ftone bafons, and thefe
were turned round ; but the fynod ordered them, and fixty croflTes, to be thrown into
the fea. The prefcnt ftoncs are probably lutftitutcd in place of thefe globes.

The prccintt of thefe tombs was held facred, and enjoyed the privileges of a Girth,
or fanftuary •. Thefe places of retreat were by the ancient Scotch law, not to (helter
indifcriminatcly every offender, as was the cafe in more bigotted times in Catholic
countries : for here all atrocious criminals were excluded ; and only the unfortunate
delinquent, or the penitent finner fhielded from the inftant ftroke of rigorous juftice.
The laws are penned with fuch humanity and good fenfe, that the reader cannot be dif-
pleafed wuh feeing them in their native fimplicity f.

" Gif any fleis to Halik Kirk moved with repentance confelTes there that he
" heavily finned, and for the love of God is come to the houfe of God for fafetie of
" himfelf, he fall nocht time life nor linime bot quhat he has taken frae ante man he
" fall reftore fame-ikill to him, and fall fatisfie the King according to the law of the
" countrie.

" And fwa fall fwere upon the Ilalie Evangell that there-after he fall never commit
" reif nor theift." Alex. 11. c 6.

*' If ane manflayer takes himfelf to the immunitie of the Kirk, he fould be admon-
«• iiTed and required to come forth and prefent himfelf to the law ; to know gif the
" flauchter was comniitted be forthocht felonie or murther.

" And gif he be admonifled, and will not come furth ; frathat time furth in all time
" thereafter he fal be banilhed and exiled as ane comjnitter of murther and forethocht
*' felonie ; keep and refervand to him the immunitie of the kirk to the whilk he take
" himfelf." Rob. ii.c. 9.

Particular care was alfo taken that they fliould receive no injury during their retreat:
penalties were enafted for even linking ; but for the murder of any, " The King was
to have from the flayer twentye nine kyes and ane zoung kow ; and the offender was
alfo to afTithe to the friends of the defunft conforme to the laws of the countrte."
Wil. c. 5. -

The cathedral lies a little to the north of this inclofure : is in the form of a crofs.
The length from eall to well is a hundred and fifteen feet. The breadth twenty-three.
'1 he length of the iranfcpt leventy. Over the centre is a handfome tower : on each of
which is a window with fbme llono work of diifercnt forms in every one.

On thefouth fide of the chancel are fonu" Oorhic arches fupportcd by pillars, nine
feet eight inches high, including the ciipitals ; luiJ tight feot nine inches in circumfer.

• Fo (Jun, lib. ii. c. 10.

\ Fri>m
Q Q 2

till' I?<rg'"ara M;ij(ftntenk

I ?'n iirf

'Mm

encc.

:h- '^^

3CO

?ENMANT 3 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

eace. The capitals arc quite poculiar ; carved round with various fuperflitious figures,
among others is an angel weighing of fouls.

The altar was of wnite marble veined with grey, and is vulgarly fuppofcd to have
reached from fide to fide of the chancel : but Mr. Sacheverel •, who fawit whenaU
mod entire, alTures us, that the fize was fix feet by four.

The demolition of this ftone was owing to the belief of the fuperftitious ; who were
of opinion, that a piece of it conveyed to the poflfeflbr fuccefs in whatever he undertook.
A very finall portion is now left ; and even that we contributed to diininiHi.

Near the altar is the tomb of the abbot Mac-kinnon. His fi/ure lies recumbent,
with this infcription round the margin, *' Hie jacet Johannes Mac-Fingonc abbas de Ily,
qui obiit anno Domini MitleHimo quingentcHiino, cujus animx propitictur D£us altilfl*
mus. Amen."

On the other fide is the tomb and figure of Abbot Kenneth.

On the lloor is the effigy of an armed knight, with a whilk by his fide, as if he juft
had returned from the fcaft of fliells in the hall of Fingal.

Among thefe funeral fubjcds, the interment (a few years ago) of a female remarkable
for her lineage mud not be omitted. She was a dired defcenJant, and the lad of the
Clan-an-oifter, odiarii, or door-keepers to the monaftery. The fird of the family came
over with Columba, but falling under his ciifpleafure, it was decreed on the impiecation
of this irritable faint, that never more than five of his clan (liould exid at one time ;
and in confequence when a fixth was born, one of the five was to look for death.
This, roport lays, alway happened till the period that the race was extinguiihcd in this
woman.

It is difficult to fay when the prefent church was built : if we may credit Boethius, it
was rebuilt by Malduinus, in the feventh century, out of the ruins of the former. But
the prefent drufture is far too magnificent for that age. Mod of the walls are built with
red granite from the Nuns ifle in the found.

From the fouth-ead comer are two parallel walls about twelve feet high, and ten feet
didant from each other. At prefent they are called Dorus targh, or the door to the
Ihore : are fuppofed to have been continued from the cathedral to the fed, to h. ve
been roofed, and to have formed a covered gallery the whole way.

In the church-yard is a fine crofs, fourteen feet high, two feet two inches brnad, ani
ten inches thick, made of a fingle piece of red granite. The pededal is three feet liigh.

Near the fouth-ead end is Mary's chapel. Befides this, we are informed, that there
were fcveral other founded by the Scottifh inonarchs, and the Reguli of the iflcsf.

'1 he monallery lies behind the cathedral. It is in a mod ruinous date, a fmall r.:ni-
nant of a'cloideris Kfr. In a corner are fome black dones, held fo facred, bm for
what reafon I am ignorant, that it was cudomary to fwear by them : perhaps from their
being neighbours to the tutelar faint, wliofe grave is almod adjacent.

Boethius I gives this monadery an earlier antiquity than perhaps it can judly claim.
He fays, that after the defeat of the Scots, at the battle of Munda, A. 1). 379, the
furvivors with all religions fled to this iOand ; and were the original foundeis of this
houfe. But the account given by the venerable Bede is much more probable, that Sr.
Columba was the original founder, as has been before related.

This ifle, lays the Dean, hes beine richlie dotat by the Scotch kings : and mentions
feverai little iiUmds that belonged to it, which he calls Soa, Naban, Moroan, Reringe,

• P i3».

X Lib. vi. p. 108, 109.

t Buchanoo; lib. i. c. 37. Dean of the iflcs, 19.

Inch

PENKANT's second tour IK SCOTLAND.

jot

Inch Kenzie, Forfay, and Kannay. Ifthcfe had been all the endowments, they would
never fcrve to icuu the religious into the temptation of luxury ; but they were in pof-
feflion of aconfuicrable number ofciiurches and chapels in Galway, with large ellates
annexed, all which wore tak^n from them, and granted to the canons of llolyrood
houle by William I. between the years 1 172 and 1 i8o*.

Columba was the tird abbot : he and his fucceflfors maintained a jurifdidion over all
the other monafteries that branched from this ; and over all the monks of this abbey
that exercifed the prieflly or even cpifcopal fundion in other places. One of the infti-
tutcs of Loyola feenis here to have been very early eftablirtied, f )r the oieves of this
houfe feem not to think themfelvei. freed from their vow of obedience to the abbot of
Jona Bede 1 fpeaksof the fm;^ular pre-eminence, and fays that the ifland always had
for a governor an abbot-prelbytcr, wliofe power (^by a very uncommon rule) not only
cvci-y province, bureven the bilhops theinlelves, obeyed. From this account the enc-
mies to epifcopacy have inferred, that the rank of bilhop was a novelty, introduced into
the church in corrupt times ; and the authority they affumevi was an errant ufurpa-
tion, fince a fimple abbot for fo confuliTablt' a fpace was permitted to have the fuperi-
orlty. In anlwer to this, archbifliop Ufher J advances, that the power of the abbot of
Jona was only local ; and extended only to the bilhop who refided there : for after the
conqued of the iflc of Man by the Enulifli, and the divifion of the fee after that event,
the bifhop of the ides made Jona his refidence, which before was in Man. But not-
withllanding this, the venerable Uede feems to be a llronger authority, than the UKler
annals quoted by the archbifliop, which pretend no more than that a bifliop had always
refided in Jona, without even an attempt to refute the pofitive aflertion of the moft re-
fpcctabie author we have (relating to cl.urch matters) in tho'e primitive times.

North of the monaftery are the remains of the bifhop's houfe : the refidence of the
bill ops of the ifles after the ifle of Man was feparated from them. This event happened
in the time of Edward I. On their arrival the abbots permitted to them the ufe of
their church, for they never had a cathedral of their own, except that in the ifle of
Man. During the time of the Norwegian reign, which lafted near two hundred years,,
the bifliops were cholen without refpeit of country, for we find French, Norwegian,
li.n;; ifli aiul Scotch among the prelates, and they were generally, but not always, con-
fc ■■ tPtl at Drontheim. Even after the cefllon of the Ebudae to Scotland by Magnus,
the patronage of this biffioprick was by treaty referved to the archbifliop § of Drontheim..
Tins fee was endowed with || thirteen iflaruts ; but fome of them were forced fronx.
thim by the tyranny of fome of the little chieftains; thus for example, Rafa, as the
hnneil Dean fays, was pcrteiniug to Mac-Gyllychallan by the fword, and to the bifliop
of the ifles by heritage.

The title of thefe prelates, during the conjunSion of Man and Sodor, had been univer-
fally miftaken, till the explications of that moll ingenious writer Pr. M;\cpherlon ^ : it
was always fuppofedto have been derived from Soder, an imaginary town, either in^
Man or in Jona : whofe derivation was taken from the Greek Soter or Siviour. Dur-
ing the time that the Norwegians were in pofleflion of the ifles, they divided them into
two parts : the northern, which comprehended all that lay to the north of the point ofi

• Sir JaiiifS Talrymplt's Coll. 271, »72,

f lial)ire autcm folct ipfa iulula rtdlorein femper Abbatem Prffbytenim, cujusjuri «t omnis Provincia
et ipi) etiam bpifc>>pi online imilitato >'«bt.'aiit rlFc ftibjedli. Lib. iii. c 4.
X l)c lirit Lcclef Piimoid. cap. xv p 701.

^ Sir Daviil Dairy mpk's \nnals of ■>colland. 17H. i{ The Dean*

^ t. 2^2, untl Turfxus, iu many parli uf l>is hillory uf the Orkney*.

Arna*-

joa PENNANT a deCONO TOUR IN ICOTLANn.

Arnamurchan, ami were c3lL'cl the NorJcroys, from nonlcr North, anil cy an iflanJ.
And the Siulcr'-ys took in thofe that lay to the louth of that promontory. 'I'his was
only a civil divilion, for the fake ot' governing thcfc fcattcrcd ilonunions with more
facility I for a feparnto viceroy was lent to e;ich, but both vhto fubjod to the fame
jiirifdidion civil and cccli'fi;Wlical. But as the Svidfreys was the moll important,
that had the honour of giving name to tho bithopriik, ;uid the Ilk* of Man retained both
titles, like as England unites that of France, noiwi'hftan.ling nuiny centuries have
elapied fmcoour rights to the now ufurprd titles are loll.

I'rocccd on our walk. 'I'o the well of ilu' convent is the abbot's mount, overlooking
the whole. Uoncath fecm to havj boon ill;; garjcnj once will cultivated, for we arc
told that the monks tranl'planted from other places, herls Ivtli efciilent and medicinal.

IJeyond the mount are the ruins of a kiln, and a granary : and near it, wn. tb mil.
The lake or pool that fcrved it lay behln»l ; i-; now drained, and is the turb- : \ , th^ fuel
of ihc natives : it appears to have been once divided, f ^r alonj; the uiidui.' ri ^ I'fetl
way, pointing to the hills. They ne^led at prcfoiit the convenience "f a tiiill,au I ufo
tinly quern?.

North from the granary extends a narrow ilat, with a doi.'.'e dike anv. lofs on one
fide, and a fingle dike on the other. At the end is a iqu;' (• < iitaining a cairn and
furroundcd with a llone dike. 'I his is called a burial place ; u uuift have l^'ccn in very
early times colemporary with other cairns, perhaps iu the days of Druioifm ; for bi-
(liop Pocock mentions, that he had feen tw») (loins fcvcu feet high, with a third laid
acrofs on their tops, an evident cromleh : ho alio adds, that the Irilh name of the
ifland was lifli Drunifh ; which agrees with the account I have fomewherc read, that
Jona had been the feat of Druid« expelled by Columba, who found them there.

Before I quit this height, I mull oblerve, that the whole of their rtlipious buildings
were covered on the north fide by dikes, as a protedlion from the northern invaders,
who paid little regard to the fanclily of their charatlers.

The public was greatly intcrelleil in the prefervation of this place, for it was the re-
pofitory of molt of tie ancient Scotch records*. The library here mud alfo have
been invaluable, if wc can depend upon Botthius, who alferts that Fergus the II. affift-
ing Alaric the Cli^th, in the facking of Rome, brought away as his Ihare of the plunder,
acheft of books, which he prefented to the inonaltery of Jona. iEneas Sylvius (after-
wnrds Pope Pius II.) intended, when he was in i^cotland, to have vifited the library hi
fcarch of the loll books of Livy, but was prevented by the death of the King, James I.
A fmall parcel of them were m 1525 brought to Aberdeen f, and great pains were
taken to unlold them, but through age and the tendernefs of the parchment, little could
be read : but from what the learned were able to make out, the work appeared by the
flyle to have rather been a fragment of Salluft than of Livy. But the rei^iller .ind
records of the ifland, all written on parchment, and probably other n:orc antique anil
valuable remains, were all ilellroyed by iK* w 'ife than Gothic lynod +, which at the
reformation dec'artd war againll all fcicnct.

At prefent, this oiko cclcbrati<l iVat o'" I..'/-!.. 1. deflitutc -i even a fchorl-nuflir ;
and this feminary of holy men wants c en a muuitcr to aflill them in the common
duties of rcligioi>.

• Vide Mac-kfn7,ic, Slillinj;flett, LInv'I.

+ IVmiI iiM, lit) vij |, I i^, I'ji.liiH loviiu, quotr(^ hy T'fhrr, Br. Keel y',7.

I «tn iiiformeil thm nutilirrs dt the rr<i.ul» of the HclTiilrH wne pri U-rn'il .if Droii K ■111 till i[i, -
wtic drlltoyfd hy iIk groat tire wlmli h.ij,ptiu:d 111 itiat <.iiy tiihcr in thr tail or pnl'iiii icijtii.y,
I M. Jr. Advocates Library.

' y

.iv.1

I'".

I'KNNANT « sr.COND ToUR IN SCOTLAND. JOJ

July 10. Crofs the iflanJ over a \no'\ fertile i-l'vateJ tra£\ to the fouth-wert file, to
vifit the laiuliiij; place ot St. Coluiiiba ; a hnall bay, with a pebbly beach, inixevl with
variety oF pretty (loiics, fiich as violet . 'louroJ quartz, nej)hritic Itones, and tra^in.-iits
of porphyry, granite ;uk1 '/.cvblitz iimMv- : a v«(l trad near tliis place was covered witli
heaps t itoiies, ol uneqaal fizus : th.fe, a» . Vaiil, were the penances of monks who
wee to raife heaps ol «liinonfioiis i .(aal u> th«r crimes : and to judge by foine, it is no
binT"l> of charity to think thvii- wtix- anvvig them enormous (inners.

On one '"'de is (hewn an t)bloti;.^ hjap of earth, the fuppofed fize of the vefTcl that
tranlported St. Coliimba and his tv- -Iv^ difcipli-s from Ireland to this illand.

On my riturn faw, u;i the ri,i;ht hand, on a fnull hill, a fnull circle of ilones, and a
little cairn in the middle, evidently Druidical, ' ' illed the hill of the Angels, Cnoc
nar-aimgeal ; from a ttadition that the holy mm li.t : there a conference witn thofe ce-
leflial beings foon aftu-r his nrival. IJilhop l*oc ick . )rmed me, that the natives were
accuflomed to bring their hories to this circle ut the fv.. uf St. Michael, and to courle
round it. I conjedlure that this ufage originated from tl cuftom ofblellliM the horfes
in the days of rujjerllition, whcit the prielf and th holy v. ter p»)t were ailed in : but
in latter tnnes the horfes are (till afl'embk\Ubut the • Ton i "rgotten.

The traveller mud not negleft to al"cei\d th.- hill Dun ii ; from v uofe fummit is a
moll pidurefquc viow of the long chain of 11 ic iflai. iieigl Sours to this; of the long
low iflos of Col and Tir-l to the weft; and :lie vail ' i^hl f Kum and Skle to the
north.

July 1 1. At eight if the clock in the morning, with he lirft fair wind we yet had,
fct fail for the found : t .c view of Jon t, its clullered to ;he great ruins, and the fer.
tllity of the ground, W( re fine contrails, in our pall'ag
barren Mull.

Loch-Scrvban, or Lot i-Leven in Mull, foon opens
cape, placed nt our maps ir too projecling, fee Loch in
ifles of Ulva and Gom.'tra in its mjuth. On Ulva arc
colour than ufual. In Lo. h-Screban that in"el igent vn
coveri'd in a glen near Ardli u head, a wonderl il colletflioi.
difpofed, fome cred, others l)ending a-s if prellu.d by the in
td by lava and vitrified man r. Ai infulated rock of a ve

10 be feen at the extremity ol 'he glen, fupported by lofty bau ic pillars (lightly inclined.
Tlie greater part of the rock s formed of rude I iva, but one iide confifls of pillars lying
horigontally upon the others, and regularly reding on them tHI »lHey reach the fummit
of the lava, and form on that j art a mod beautiful and Angular ^teg *.

On the well appears the b autiful groupe of the Treafliuniiti ifles f. Neareft lies
StafVa, a new giant's cauP way, rifing amidft the waves ; but "'ith columns of double the
height of that ill Ireland; glofy and refplendent, from the beams of the caftern fun.
Their grtateft height was at thi fouthern point of the ifle, of which they feemed the
fupport. They decreafed in h ^ht in proportion as they advanced along that face of
Staffa oppofed to us, or the ead( n fide ; at length appeared loft in the formlefs ftrata :
and the reft of the illand that apj eared to us was formed of flopes to the water edge, or
of rude but not lofty precipices. Over part of the ifle, on the wedern fide, was plainly
to be feen a vaft precijuce, feemii..;ly columnar, like the preceding. I wilhed to make a

• Plill. Ttaiif Ixxx [>. 73. tab. iv.

f Thife an molt crruacuufly placid in he nups a vcr}- confidrrable diftancc t03 far (o the north.

2 nearer

the red granite rocks of the

i our view. After palling a

Gaal ; a deep bay, with the

altic columns of a lighter

r Mr. Mills in 1788, dif-

nUltic columns, varioufly

uient weight, and attend-

lurprizing compofitioa is

;. <n

' ! f!^^'

•r^-.

304

pennant's second tour rN Scotland.

nearer approach, but the prudence of Mr. Thompfon, who was unwilling to venture in
thel'e rocky foas, prevented my farther fearch of this womlious ifle; I couKi do no
more than caufe an accurate view to be taken of its eaftcrn fi .-, and of thofe of the
other pidurefaue iflands then in figiit. But it is a great «:onlolation to mo, that I an\
able to lay before the public a moil accurate account communicated to me through the
friendfliip of Sir Jofeph Banks, wlio, on Auguft 1 2 of this fummor, vifited tiiefc parts
on his interefting voyage to Iceland.

ACCOUNT OF STAFFA, By Sm Joseph Banks, Baronet.

Auguft 12. •' In the found of Mull, we came to anchor, on the Movven fide,
oppofite to a gentleman's houfe, called Drumncn : the owner of it, Mr, Maclcane,
having found out who we were, very cordially aiked us afliore ; wo accepted his invi.
tation, and arrived at his houfe, where we met an Englifli gentleman, Mr. Leach *,
who no fooner faw us than he told us, that about nine leagues from us was an ilhuid
where he believed no one even in the Highlands had been f, on whieh were pillars
like thofe of the Giant's-Caufeway : this was a threat objed to me who had wilhed to
have feen the caufeway itfclf, would time have allowed ; I therefore refolved to pro-
ceed diredly, efpccially as it was jult in the way to the Columb-kill : accordingly,
having put up two days provifions, and my little tent, we put off in the boat about
one o'clock for our intended voyage, having ordered the fhip to wait for us in Tobir-
more, a very fine harbour on the Mull fide.

*' At nine o'clock, after a tedious paffage, having had not a breath of wind, we
arrived, under the diredion of Mr. Macleane's fon, and Mr. Leach. It was too dark
to fee any thing, fo we carried our tent and baggage near the only houfe upon the
ifland, and began to cook our fuppers, in order to be prepared for the earlielt dawn,
to enjoy that which from the converfation of the gentlemen we had now railed the
highelf expectations of.

** The impatience which every body felt to fee the wonders we had lieard fo largely
defcribed, prevented our morning's refl ; every one was up and in motion before the
break of day, and with the firft light arrived at the fouth-weft part of the ifland, the
feat of the moft remarkable pillars ; where we no fooner arrived than we were ffruck
with a fcene of magnificence which exceeded our expedations, though formed, as we
thought, upon the moft fanguine foundations ; the whole of that end of the ifland
fupported by ranges of natural pillars, moftly above fifty feet high. Handing in natural
colonnades, according as the bays or points of land formed themfelves ; upon a firm
bafts of folid unformed rock, above thefe, the ftratum which reaches to the foil or fur-
face of the ifland, varied in thicknefs as the ifland itfelf formed into hills or vallies;
each hill, which hung over the columns below, forming an ample pediment ; fome of
♦hefe above fixty feet in thicknefs, from the bafe to the point, formed by the Hoping
of the hill on each fide, almoft into the fhape of thofe ufcd in architecUuo.

•" I cinnot but txprrfs the obmjntiuni I ha»e to this pfiillcman for his very kind intent urns of informing
rric of tiiit matchlci'ii cuiiofity ; fur I am informril ihal he purfucd me in 4 boat for two miles, tu ,i( quaint
roe uitli whrft ht liad ol fcivid ; but, unfortunately fur me, ne out-lailed his liberal inti'i tion."

f '• V\ hen I lay in the found of Jona, two gentlemen, from the ifle of Mull, and wliofo fi'tllement* were
there, fctmed to know nothing of this place } at Icail they never mentioned it ai «ny thing wonderful "

" Compared

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

305

" Cojnparctl to this what are the cathedrals or the palaces built by men! mere mo-
dels or playthings, imitations as diminutive as his works will always be when compared
to thofe ot nature. Where is now the boafl of the archirefl ! regularity, the only part
in which he landed himlclf to exceed his miflrefs. Nature, is here found in her pof-
feflion, and here it has been for ages undefcribcd *. Is not this the fchool where the
art was originally lludiod, and what has been added to this by the whole Grecian
fchool ? a capital to ornament the column of nature, of which they could execute only
a model ; and for that very capital they were obliged to a bufli of Acanthus : how
amply does nature repay thole who fhuly her woiidci fid works !

" With our miiuls full of fuch rellcdi ns we proceeded along the fliorc, treading
upon another Giant's Caufcway, every (lone being regularly formed into a certain
number of lidcs and angles, till in a (hort time we ariived at the mouth of a cave,
the molt magniticent, 1 iuppofe, that has ever been defcribed by travellers.

" The mind can hardly forn\ an idea more magnificent than fuch a fpace, fupported
on each fide by ranges of columns ; and roofed by the bottoms of ofe, which have
been broke oft' in order to form it ; between the angles of which a ^ ilow ftalagmitic
matter has exuded, which ferves to define the angles precifely ; aiid at the fame time
vary the colour with a great deal of elegance, and to render it ftill more agreeable,
the whole is lighted from without ; fo that the farthefl extremity is very plainly feen
from without, and the air within, being agitated by the flux and reflux of the tides,
is perfectly dry and wholefome, free entirely from the damp vapours with which na-
tural caverns in general abound.

*• Wc afkcd the name of it. Said our guide, the cave of Fhinn ; what is Fhinn ?
Hiid wr. Fhinn Mac Coul, whom the tranflator of Oflian's works has called Fingal.
How fortunate that in this cave we fliould meet with the remembrance of that chief,
whole exilttHice, as well as that of the whole epic poem is almolt doubted in England.

*' Enough for the beauties of Stall'a ; I fliall now proceed to defcribe it and its pro-
dudions more philofopically :

" The little illand of Stafta lies on the weft coaft of Mull, about three leagues
north-eaft from Jona, or the Columb Kill ; its greateft length is about an Englifli mile,
and its breadth about half a one. On the weft fide of the ifle is a fmall bay, where
boats generally land ; a little to the fouthward of which the firft appearance of pillars
are to be obferved ; they are fmall, and inftead of being placed upright, lie down on
their fidos, each forming a fegment of a circle ; from thence you pafs a fmall cave,
above which, the pillars now grown a little larger, are inclining in all directions : in
one place in particular a finall mafs of them very much refemblc the ribs of a fliipt i
from hence, having palfed the cave, which, if it is not low water, you muft do in a
boat, you come to the firft ranges of pillars, which are ftill not above half as large as
thole a little beyond. Over againft this place is a fmall ifland, called in Erfe, Boo-fha-
la, or more properly Hhiiacha-illc, or the herdi'man, feparated from the main by a
channel not many fathoms wide ; this whole ifland is compofed of pillars without any

• •• Stjffa is takrn not lor of by nnchainn, but in the fliglitcll manner ; anil among tlie thonfancls who
tiavc naviirati'd tl.ele fcas, nunc have paid the Wall attention to iti> grand und tlriking charai^\erillic, till thi*
piefint ye;ir.

'• 'rhi< ilhind is the propcily of Mr Laiulihn Mac C>_i.ulrc of Ulv.i, ;md in now to he lUfpofeil of.

f " 'I'lie CilAni's C.uifcway has its hendini^ pillar^ ; but I imagine them to be very diflercnt from theff .
Thol't I faw vvfi e tuc\, and ran along tiie face of a l,.^Ii clift', btiit (Irangtly in their middle, as if unable,
at their orignul formation, while in a loft Hate, to fupport the mafs of ii.eumbent earth that prcfTed on
thim.

VOL. in. R li ftratum

3o6 pennant's second tour in qcoti.and.

ftratiim above them ; they are ftiil finall, but by much the neateft formed of any about
the place.

*' The firf^ divifion of the ifland, for at high water it is divided into two, makes a
kind of a cone, the pillars converging together towards the centre ; on the other,
they are in general laid down flat, and in the front next to the main, you fee how
beautifully thoy are packed together, their ends coming out fquare with the bank
which they form : all thcfe have their tranfverfe feftions cxaft, and their furfaces
fmooih, which is by no means the cafe with the large ones, which are cracked in all
diredions. I much qucition however, if any one of this whole ifland of Bhuachaille
is two feet in diameter.

" The main ifland oppofed to Boo-flia-la and farther towards the north-weft is
fupported by ranges of pillars pretty ereft, and, though not tall, (as they are not un-
covered to the bafe, 1 of large diameters j and at thtir feet is an irregular pavement
made by the upper fides of fuch as have been broken off", which extends as far under
water as the eye can reach. Here the forms of the pillars are apparent : thefe are of
three, four, five, fix, and feven fides, but the numbers of five and fix are by much
the mod prevalent. The largefl I meafured was of feven ; it. was four feet five inches
in diameter. I (hall give the meafurement of its fides, and thofe of fome other forms
which I met with.

" No. I.

4 fides,

Side I.
2.

3-
4-

diam. i
Ft, In.

> 5
I I

1 6

I I

tft.

5 in.

No.

5 fides,

Side I.

3-
4-
5-

diam. 2 ft. 10 in.

Ft. I...
I 10
1 10

» 5
I 7i
I 8

« No. 3.

6 fides,

diam. 3

ft.

6 in.

No.

7 fides,

diam. 4 ft. 5 in.

0 10

2 10

2 2

2 4

2 2

1 10

I II

2 0

2 2

I I

2 9

I 6

» 3

•* The furfaces of thefe large pillars in general are rough and uneven, full of cracks
in all directions : the tranfverfe figures in the upright ones never fail to run in their
true directions ; the furfaces upon which we walked were often flat, having neither
concavity nor convexity : the larger number however were concave, thoiigii fome
were very evidently convex ; in fome places the interftices within the perpendicular
figures were filled up with a yellow fpar ; in one place a vein pafl'ed in among the mafs
of pillars, carrying here and there fmall threads of Ipar. Though they were broken
and cracked through and through in all directions, yet their perpendicular figures
might eafily be traced : from whence it is eafy to infer, that whatever the accident
might have been that caufcd the diflocation, it happened after the form:"i'Mi of the
pillars.

8 " From

^li

.1;

pennant's second tOUR IN SCOTLAND.

3^7

Ft.

In.

371

250

117

" From hence proceeding along (bore, you arrive at Fingal's cave : its dunenfions
though 1 have given, I fhall here again repeat in the form of a table :

" Length of the cave from the rock without

from the pitch of the arch
Breadth of ditto at the mouth - • -

at the farther end . - -

Height of the arch at the mouth . . -

at the end
Height of an outfide pillar - . -

of one at the N. W. corner
Depth of water at the mouth
at the bottom

The cave runs into the rock in the direction of N. E. by E. by the compafs.

" Proceeding farther to the N. W. you meet with the higheft ranges of pillars, the
magnificent appearance of which is paft all defcription : here they are bare to their very
bafis, and the ftratuni below them is alfo vifible ; in a fhort time it rifes many feet
above the water, and gives an opportunity of examining its quality. Its furface rough,
and has often large lumps of flone (licking in it, as if half immerfed j itfelf, when
broken, is compofcd of a thoufand heterogeneous parts, which together have very
much tlic appearance of a lava ; and the more fo as many of the lumps appear to be
of the very fame (tone of which the pillars are formed : this whole flratum lies in an
inclined pofition, dipping gradually towards the S. E. As hereabouts is the fituation
of the higheft pillars, I fliall mention my meafurements of them, and the different ftrata
in this place, premifing that the meafurements were made with a line, held in the hand
of a peribn who flood at the top of the cliff, and reaching to the bottom, to the lower
end of which was tied a white mark, which was obferved by one who ftaid below for
the purpofe ; when this mark was fet off from the water, the perfon below noted it
down, and made fignal to him above, who made then a mark in his rope : whenever this
mark paffed a notable place, the fame fignal was made, and the name of the place noted
down as before j the line being all hauled up, and the diftances between the marks
mcafured and noted down, gave, when cniparcd with the book kept below, the dif-
tances, as for inflance in the cave :

" No. I. ill the book below, was called from the water to the foot of the firft pil-
lar, in the book above ; No. i. gave 36 feet 8 inches, the higheft of that afcent, which
was compofcd of broken pillars.

" No. I. Pillar at the weft corner of Fingal's cave:

1. From the water to the foot of the pillar ...

2. Height of the pillar - - -

3. Stratum above the pillar

No. a. Fingal's cave :
J. From the water to the foot of the pillar

2. Height of the pillar

3. From the top of the pillar to the top of the arch

4. Thicknefs cf the ftratum above

By adding together the three firft meafurements, we got the height of the
arch from the water

R R 2

Ft.
12

In.
10

8
6

4
4

117 6

No.

ii'!!

IP*,

■■ki

'"■:j|

' ■■■■'if-.iit

.'"M

308

"U'

pennant's second tour INn SCOTLAND.

No. 3. Corner pillar to the weftward of Fingal's cave :

Stratum below the pillar of lava-like matter •

Length of pili.ir
Stratum above the pillar

No. 4. Another pilhu- to the weftward :
Stratum below the pillar
Height of the pillar
Stratum above - - «

No. 5. Another pillar farther to the weftward :
Stratum below the pillar
Height of the pillar
Stratum above

Ft.
1 1

54
6\

17
5'

In.
o
o

r»

o
1

8
I

" The ftratum above the pillars, which is here mentioned, is uniformly the fame,
confifting of numbcrlcfs fniall pillars, bending and inclining in all dirccHons, foine-
■ imes fo irregularly, that the (loncs can only be faid to have an inclination to afl'unie a
columnar form ; in otiicrs moro regular, but never breaking into, or difturbing the
ilratum of large pillars, whole tops every where keep an uniform and irregular line.

" Proceeding now along fhove round the north end of the idand, you arrive at Oua
na fcarve, or thi- Corvorant's Cave : here the ftratum under the pillars is liftul up very
high ; the pillars above it are confiderably lofs than thofe at the N. W. end of the
ifland, but ftill very confiderabie. Beyond is a bay, which cuts deep into the ifland,
rendering it in that place not more than a quarter of a mile over. On the fides of
this bay, efpecially beyond a little valley, which almoft cuts the ifland into two, are
two ftages of pillars, but fmall ; however, having a ftratum between them exadtly the
fame as that above them, formed of innumerable little pillars, fliakcn out of their
places, and leaning in all diretflions.

*' Having paffed tliis bay, the pillars totally ceafe ; the rock is of a dark brown
ftone, and no figns of regularity occur till you have pafTed round the S. E. end of th/;
ifland fa fpace almoft as large as that occupied by the pillars,) which you meet again
on the weft fide, beginning to form themfelves irregularly, as if the ftratum had an
inclination to that form, and foon arrive at the bcntiing pillar.^ where I began.

" The ftone of which the pillars arc formed is a coarfe kit. J of bafaltcs, very much
refembling the Giant's Caufew.iy in Ireland, though none of iheiu arr lu-ar To neat a.s the
fpecimcns of the Litter, which I have feen at the Hritifli Muieum ; owing chiefly to
the colour, which in ours is a dirty brown, in the Irifli a fine black : indeed the whole
produdion feems very much to rtlemble the Giant's Caufeway ; with which I ftiould
willingly compare it, had I any account of the former before me *■."

Proceed with a fine breeze; fee, b;'yond Stalia, B.ica-b.-g, and tlie Dutchman's-
cap, formed like a Phrygian bonnet ; and coinpofed of ruje baiahlc pillars. Next
fucceeds Lunga f, varying into grotelqiie (hapjs as we recede from it ; tlie low Hats of

• As this account is tcplcil froni .a'.t l'aiik-.'ti j urn.il, I take llic llhirty of f.iy.n^ (vvlni by thiii liinc
that gentleman is well ac(('.i.iiiitrj with,) tiiat .St;:lla is a );iviii:'in: iTiiil.s of Ij.il.dtts, or (ji.int's (. aufe^vay , but
in moii ref| eftb Icpcnor 10 the Irifli l:i praiul ur. I naill .id ! lh.it the iiitrtie is Ni)rw»);ia!i ; aM>l molt [jrc-
pcrly ! ; ilowcd o;i aituuiil ct its hiigular ItruClure : itafla being dnivcil I'rom ; t.if, a ItalF, prtip, or, lii;a-
rativtly, a colu-in.

f (l/ At the bottom of the pri'it of the rocks of Caiiiiay, 1< .1 very i'l'jr.l.ir view of Liiii a, a; il
the l)i)tclirnan'6 ciiiJ, as tl;ev a]ip..^r,d aboiK lijlitor nine miles iliC.ii.t, thellifl S. S. by W. lit l.iit
.S \V. by S.

2 I-'aJa

r"'i'

pennant's SECONJ tour in SCOTLAND. 309"!

I'lada next fliew thenifelves ; and, ladly, the -ifles of Cairn-bcrg more and beg, with
columnar appearances : the [ivii noted for its ancient fortrefs, the outgard to the Su-
dereys, or fouthern Hebrides.

In the year 1249, J^hu Diingadi, appointed by Acho of Norway, king of the north-
ern Hebndes, was entrufted with the defence of this caftle ; and, in return for that
confidence, declined to furrcnder it to Alexander III. of Scotland, who meditated
the conqueft of thefe iflands. It was in thofe days called Kianiaburgh, or Biarna-
burgh*. The Maclcanes pofleflcd it in 1715, and during the rebellion of that year,
was taken and re-taken by each party.

In our courfe obferve at a diltance, Tirey, or Tir-I, famous for its great plain, and
the breed of little horfts. To the north, feparated from Tirey by a fmall found, is
the ifle of Col. I mufl: not omit obferving, that the firft is reported by a very fenfible
writer, to be well adapted for the culture of tobacco f.

Pafs the point Ruth-an-i fleith, in Mull, when Egg high and rounded. Muck fmall,
and the exalted tops of the mountainous Rum, and lofty Sky, appear in view. Leave,,
on the eaft, Calgarai bay in Mull, with a few houfes, and fome figns of cultivation ;.
the firll; marks of population that had flicwn thcmfelves in this vaft ifland.

The entrance of the found of Mull now opens, bounded to the north by cape Ard-
namurchan, or, the height of the boilterous fea ; and beyond, inland, foar the vaft
fummits of Benevilh, Morvern, and Crouachan.

Towards afternoon the fky grows black, and the wind frefhens into a gale, attended
with rain, difcouraging us from a chace of feak^, which we propofed on the rock
Heifkyr, a little to the welt, where they fwarm. To the wed of Cannay, have a fight
of the rock Huinbla, formed of bafaliic coKunns |.

Leave, three leagues to the welt, the cairns of Col, a dangerous chain of rocks, ex-
tending from its northern extremity.

Sail under the vaft mountanis of Rum, and' the point of Bredon, through a moft
turbulent fca, caufcd by the clafhing of two adverfe tides. See feveral fmall whales,
calleil here Pollacks, that, when near land, are often chafed on fliore by boats : they
are ufually about ten feet long, and yield four gallons of oil. At feven o'clock in the
evening lind ourfelvcs at anchor in four fathom water, in the fnug harbour of the ifle
of Cannay. Formed on the north fide by Cunnay, on the fouth by the little ifle of
Saiula ; the mouth lies oppofite to Rum, and about three miles diftant ; the weftern
thannel into it is impervious by reafon of rocks. On that fide of the entrance next
to Sanda is a rock to be ftiunned by mariners.

As iuon as we had time to cait our eyes about, each fhorc appeared pleafing to hu--
inaniiy ; verdant, and covered with huiuircds of cattle : both fides gave a full idea of
plenty, for liie verdure was mixed with very little rock, and fcarcely any heath ; but a
ihort coiiverfation vvitii the natives foon dilpelled t'.is a;^reeable error; they were at
this very time in fuch want, that numbers for a long time had neither bread nor meal
for thi.ir poor babes ; fiJh and milk was their whole fubfiftence at this time : the tirft
was a precarious relief, for, befiJes the uncertainty of fuccefs, to add to their diftrefs,
their (lock of iilli-hoeks was ahnoft exhaufted ; and to ours, that it was not in our
power to fupply them. The rubbans, and other triHes I had brought would have been
infults to peofile in dillrefs. 1 lamented that my money had been fo ufelei'sly laid out ;.
for a lew dozens of filh-hooks, or a lew pecks of meal, would have made them happy.

i'i»

' ■' ''ii-i

:'||

■1

■ ' ■ !
'/ ■ ! ■

; .t

■'.iji'i

'i^' m

U"j if"

•'H111

• Toifiius, 164. t Account cmrcnt betwixt England and Scotland, by John Sprucl.

"i 'J'lli^ was difttjvtred l)y Mr. MiuJucli MaL-kciiv.ie.

Th«

•^ICJ

PENNAKT 3 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

'1 he Turks orefl: caravanforas. Chriftians of different opinions concur in eftabliniing
Ii'>!'pit;:i nniouj; the ihvary Alps, for the reception of travellers. I could wifii the public
b< ur.!v, or private charity, would found in fit parts of the illcs or mainland, magazines
ui meiil, as prefcrvativcs ap;ainfl famine in thefe diftant parts.

Tho crops hail faiUd here the lall year; but the little corn fown at prefent had a
promiling afpoct ; and the potatoes are the bcfl; I had feen, but thefe were not fit for
ufe. I'he illcs 1 fear annually experience a temporary famine j perhaps from inipro.
vidrnce, perhaps from eagcrnefs to increafe their flock of cattle, which they can eafily
difpofc of to fatisfy the demands of a landlord, or the oppreflions of an agent. The
people of Cajmay export none, but fell them to the numerous bufTes who put into this
Port us Sahilis vn difi'ercnt occafions.

The tattle arc of a middle Hze, black, long-legged, and have thin flaring manes from
the neck along tl.e back, and up part of the tail : they look well, for in fevcral parts of
the iflands they have good warm rccelTes to retreat to in winter. About fixty head are
exported annually.

Each couple of milch cows yielded at an average feven flones of butter and cheefc ;
two-thirds of tiio firil, and nne of the lafl. The cheefe ibid at three and fixpcncc a
Hone, the butter at eight fliillings.

Here are very few fiietp, but liorfes in abundance. The chief ufe of them in this
little -tliflricl is to form an aimual cavalcade at Michaelmas. Every man on the ifland
mounts his horle unlurniilied with faddle,and takes behind him either fome young girl, or
his neighbour's w ite, ami then rides backwards and forwards from the village to a cer-
tain crofs, without being able to give any rcafon for the origin of this cuflom. After
the proceflii)n is over, they alight at fome pablic-houfe, where, flrange to fiiy, the fe-
males treat the companions of their ride. When they retire to their houfes an enter-
tainment is prepared with primreval fimplicity : the chief part confifls of a great oat- cake,
called StruanMicluil, or St. Michael's cake, compofed of two pecks of meal, and
formed like the quiiJnmt of a circle; it is daubed over with milk and eggs, and then
placed to harden betore the fire.

Matrimony is luKl in fuch eileem here, that an old maid or old batchelor is fcarcely
kn(n\n ; fiich firm belief have they in the dodrine of the ape-leading difgrace in the
world below : fo to avcnd thut danger the youth marry at twenty, the lafTes at feventcen.
'I'lie fair fex are uRti here with more tendernefs than common, being employed only
in domellic atlairs, and never forced into t'.ie labours of the field. Here arc plenty of
poultry and of c,ugs.

Abundance of cod and ling might be taken, there being a fine fand-bank between
this if.c and the rock Heilk'jr, and another lietween Skie and Harra ; but the poverty
of the inhabitants will not enable them to attempt a filhi ry. \Vhen at Campbeltown I
enquired about the apparatus requifite, and found that a vellel of twenty tons wasnecef-
fary, whicli wnuld cofl two hundred pounds ; tiiat the crew fhoiild be compofed of
eight hands, whole monthly cxpcnccs would be fourteen pounds; that fix hundred
fathom of long line, five hundred hooks, and two fluoy lines (each eighty fathoms
long), which are placed at each end of the long-lines with buoys at top to mark the
place when funk, v.ould altogether colt five guineas ; and the vell'el mull be provided
vi;h four (as; (">) that tiie whole charge of fuch an adventure is very confiderable, and
pafl the ability of thefe poor people *.

The length of ihj ifland is about three miles, the breadth near one ; its furface hilly.
This was the property of the bifhop of the ifles, but at pref-nt that of Mr. Macdonald
of Clan- Ronald. His factor, a refident agent, rents moft of the ifland, paying two
• I:i Br. Z ;j1 hi. No. 73, is an account ol'a fiftiery of this nature.

guineas

iH!

.W-

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

31*

guineas for each penny-lanil ; and tlvfe he fets to the poor people at four guineas and
a half each ; and cxadis, bifides tliis, three days la' our in the quarter hoin each perfon.
Anotlier head tenant pofilflos other penny-lands, which hii fets in the iame manner, to
the inipovL-rifliinti; and very (larvint^ of the wretched iiihal itants.

The penny-lands derive their name ircm fonie old valuation. The fum requifite to
ftock one is thirty pounds : it maintains feven cows and two horfes ; and the tenant
can raife on it cij;ht bolls of fuiall black oats, the produce of two ; and four of bear
from halt a boll of feed ; one boll of potatoes yields fcven. The two lad are manured
with fea-tang.

Thearalde land in every farm is divided into four parts, and lots are cafl for them at
Chridmas: the produce, when rcajjed and dried, is divided among them in proportion
to their rents ; and for want of mills is ground in the quern. All the padure is com-
mon, from May to the beginning of September.

It is faid that the fador has in a manner baniflied flieep, becaufe there is no good
market for them ; fo that he does his b^lt to deprive the ii.liabitauis of cloathing as well
as food. At prefent they lupply themfelves with wool from Rum, at the rate of eight-
pence the pound.

All the cloathing is manufaflured at home: the women not only fpin the wool, but
weave the cloth : the men make their own flioes, tan the leather with the bark of wil-
low, or the roots of the tnrmcntUla crccla, or toriKcntily and in defedt of \\ax-thread, ufe
fplit thongs.

About twenty tons of kelp are made in the fliores every third year.
Sicknefs feldum vifits this place : if any dilbrder feizes them the patients do no more
than drink whey, and lie Itill. The I'mall-pox vifits th*in about once in twenty years.

All difputes are fettled by the faclor, or, if of great moment, by the jullices of the
peace in Skie.

This ifland, Rum, Muck, and Kgg, form one parifli. Cannay is inhabited by two
hundred and tv>enty fouls, or wliich all, except four families, are Roman Catholics ; but
in the whole parifli there is neither church, manfe, n ir fchool : there is indeed in this
ifland a catechili, who has nine pounds a year from the royal b>umty. The minifl:er
and the popilh priell refide in I gg ; but, liy reafon ot tlie turbulent leas that divide
thefe iiles, are very felJom able to attend their floekr. 1 admire the naoderation of
their congregations, who attend the preaching of cither indfferently as they happen to-
arrive. As the Scotch are oeconomiits in religion, I would recommend to them the
pradice of one of the little Swils mixed cantons, who, through mere frugality, kept
but one divine, a tnoderate honed fellow, who, deering clear of controverlud points,
held forth to the Calvinilt flock on one part of the day, a'ld to his Catholic on the other.
Me lived long among them much rcfpcded, and died lamented.

The proteltaiit natives of many of the ifles obferve Yule and Pafch, or Chriflmasand
Eader; which among rigid prelbyt^riaus is elteemed fo horrid a fuperdition, that l^
have heard of a minider who under' eiit " renfure for having a goofe to dinn.r on
Chridmas day ; for having been convided of holding that on^' day was more holy than
another, or to be dilliiiguiflied by any external marks of fe'Hvity.

In popirti times here was probably a refident minider j^ for here are to be feen the
ruins of a chapel, and a hnall crofs.

Much rain and very hard gales the whole night, the weather being, as it is called in
thefe parts, broken.

July 12. Bad weather Hill continues, which prevented us from feeing fo much of
this ifland as we intendeil, ani al.i of vifit'n^ the rock llumhla. Go on fliore at the
neared part, and vifit a lofty ueuuv.! rock, that juts into tlie lea ; on one fide is a little

tower.

'ill

fill

• it

■ ■^:'m

312

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

lower, at a vaft hcic;ht above us, acccflible by a narrow and horrible path ; it feems fo
fmall as fcarcc to be able to contain half a dnzi'n people. Tradition liays, that it was
built by fome jealous regulus, to confine a handfome wife in.

To the north-weft above this prifon is the (lompafs-hill, in Erfe called Sgar-dhcarg,
or the red projecling rock. On the top the needle in the mariner's compafs was ob-
ferved to vary a whole quarter ; the north point ftanding due weft : an irregularity pro-
bably owing to the nature of the n)ck, highly impregnated with iron. Mr. Mills ob-
ferved in this ifland bafaltic columns.

In the afternoon fome coal was brought, fonnd in tho rocks Dun-eudaln, but in fuch
fmall veins as to be ufelefs. It lies in beds of only fix inches in thicknefs, and about a
foot dirtant from each other, divided by ftrafa of whin-llone. Fuel is very fcarce here,
and often the inhabitants are obliged to fetch it from Rum.

July 13. A continuation of bad weather. At half an hour after one at noon, loofe
from Cannay, and after palling with a favourable gale through a rolling fea, in about
*wo hours anchor in the i.le of Rum, in an open bay, about two miles deep, called
Loch-Sgriofard, bounded by high mountains, black and barren : at the bottom of the
bay is the little village Kinloch, of about a dozoii houi'es, built in a fingular manner,
with walls very thick and low, with the roofs of thatch reaching a little beyond the
inner edge, lb that they ferve as benches for the lazy inhabitants, whom we found fitting
on them in great numbers, expedling our landing, with that avidity for news common
to the whole country.

Entered the houfe with the beft afpefV, but found it little fupcrior in goodnefs to
thofe of Hay; this indeed had a chimney and windows, which didinguiflu'd it from the
others, and denoted the fuperiority of the owner ; the rc(t; knew neither windows nor
chimnies. A little hole on one fide gave an exit to the fmoke : the fire is made on the
floor beneath ; above hangs a rope, with the pot-hook at the end to hold the veflel that
contains their hard fare, a little filb, milk, or potatoes. Yet, beneath tho roof I entered,
I lound an addrefs and politeiicfs from the owner and his wife that were aftonilhing :
fuch pretty apologies for tho badnefs of the treat, the curds and milk that were offep^^d,
which were t-iuiered to us with as much readinefs and good will, as by any of old Ho-
mer's dames, celebrated by him in his OdvlTey for their hofpitality. I doubt much
whether thefr cottages or their fare was mucli better ; but it mull be confefled that they
might be a little more cleanly than our good holtefs.

Rum, or Ronin, as it is called by the dean, is the property of Mr. Macleane of Col ;
a landlord mentioned by the natives with much affection : the length is about twelve
miles, the breadth fix ; the number of fouls at this time three hundred and twenty-
five ; of families only fifty-nine, almolt all proteflant. The heads of families, with
their wives, were at this time all alive, excipt live, tiiree widowers and two widows.
They had with them a hundred and two Ions, andoiily feventv-fix daughters: this dif-
proportion prevails in Camay, and the other liitle iflands, in order, in the end, to pre-
ferve a balance between the two iexcR ; as the men are, from iheh- way of life, lo per-
petually expofed to danger in thele (lorniy IVas, and to other accidents that might occa-
iion a dipnpu'ation, was it not fo providentially ordered *.

The ifland is one gr.at mountain, divided into leveral points ; the higheft called
Aifgol)hal!. AI)out this hay, and towards the ead fide, the land Hopes towards the
water fide; but on the fouth-weft forms precipices of a (iupendous heij^ht. The fur-
face of Rem is in a manner cov::red witli heath, and in a ttate of nature ; the heights
rocky. There -'i very little arable land, excepting about the nine little hamlets that

• III Chrflir, anddtliti larpo towiiL, thini; h tilt number of inaU's cxciedj iht luimtur of ftmales boiii ;
yrt V hen arrived to the age of puSertv tlic IciiK.ltsi arc much ir.orc iiuintiuus than males ; becuiife the latter,
Ui «very period of life, art men li.ible to f»t,.l difcatcs.

the

rENNANT 6 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 313

the natives have groupr-d in difl'crent places, near which the corn is fown in diminutive
patches ; for the tenants here run-rig as in Cannay. The gnatell farmer holds fivu
pounds twelve Ihillings a % and pays his rent in money. Iho whole of the iiknd is
two thoufand marks ".

The little corn and potatoes thoy raife is very good ; but fo fmall is the quantity of
bear and oats, that tiiere is not a fourth part produced to ftipnly their annual wants :
all the fubfidence the poor people have befuies is curds, milk, and fifli. They are a
well made and wlII looking race, but carry famine in tiieir afiKcl: : are often a whole
fununer without a grain in the iiland ; which they regret not on their own account
but for the fake of their poor babes. In the prcfent cccononiy of the ifland, there is
no prol'pcrt of any improvement. Here is an ablurd cullom of allotting a certain (lock
to the land ; for example, a farmer is allowed to keep fourteen head of cattle, thirty
fheep, and (ix mares, on a certain tract called a penny-land f. The perfon who keeps
more is obliged to repair out of his fuperlluity any lofs his neighbour may fullain in his
herds or flocks.

A number of black cattle is fold, at thirty or forty fliillings per head, to graziers
who come annually from Skie, and other places. The mutton here is fmall, but the
mofl delicate in our dominions, if the gooilnefs of our appetites did not pervert our
judgment : the purchafe of a fat Iheep was four fliillings and fixpence : the natives kill
a few, and alfo of cows, to fait for winter provifions. A f-w goats are kept here:
abundance of mares, and a necelHiry number of ftallions j for the colts are an article of
commerce, but they never part with the fillies.

Every penny-land is refhided to twenty-eight fums of cattle: one milch cow is reck-
oned a fum, or ten flieep ; a horle is reckoned two funis. By this regulation, every
perfon is at liberty to make up his fums with what fpecies of cattle he pleafes ; but then
is at the fame time prevented froni injuring his neighbour (in a place where grazing is in
common) by rearing too great a (lock. This rule is often broken ; but by the former
regulation, the fuflerer may repair his lofs from the herds of the avaricious.

No hay is made in this ifland, nor any fort of provender for winter provifion. The
doniedic animals fupport themfelves as well as they can on fpots of grafs prefervcd for
that purpofe. In ev.ry farni is one man, from his oflice called Tear cuartaich, whofc
fole bufinels is to preferve the grafs and corn : as a reward he is allowed grafs for four
cows, and the produce of as much arable land as one horfe can till and harrow.

Very few poultry are reared here, on account of the fcarcity of grain.

No wild quadrupeds arc found, excepting flags : thefe animals once abounded here,
but they are now reduced to eighty, by the eagles, who not only kill the fawns, but the
old deer, feizing them between the horns, and terrifying them till they fall down fomc
precipice, and become their prey.

The birds we obforved were ring-tail eagles, ravens, hooded-crows, white wagtails
wheat-cars, titlarks, ring ouzels, grous, ptarmigans, curlews, green plovers, fafced*
dars or arclic gulls, and the greater terns : the l)ean mentions gannets, but none ap-
peared while we were in the ifland.

At the foot of Sgor-mor, oppofite to Cannay, are found abundance of agates, of that
fpecies called by Cronfled, fed. Ixi. 6, Achates chalcedonifans, improperly, white cor-
nelians : fcvcral Angular Itrata, fuch as grey quartzy (lone, Crnnlled, fed. cclxxiv ;
another, a mixture of quartz and baialtes, a black ftone, fpotted with white, like por-

■MlSl

* A iSeotcli mark 13 licllc more tliaii tlilrtfen-pcncc-f.vrtliinfj.

■\ I'lic divilicu iiiio ptiin) -lands, and much of the rural aconoiry agree in both iflands.

VOL. III. S S

phyry

r^NNANT 8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

phyry, l)ut with flio appearance of a liiva : fine jjrit, or free ftone, anil iho cinereous iii«
doratcd hole of Cronilod, fed. ixxxvii.

July 14. Land again : walk live miles up the fides of the ifland, chiefly over heath
and moory };r(nuul : crofs two deep ^jullies, varied with fever.il pretty cafcadcs, falling
from rock to rock : pafs by great tnalVes of llone, corrOvKd as if they had lain on iha
fhore. After a long afcent reach I-och-nan-grun, a piece of water amidft the rocks,
beneath fonie of the highcfl peaks of the mountains. Abundance of terns inhabit tliis
loch. Return cxceliively wet with conilant rain.

Notwithdanding this ifland has feveral dreams, here is not a fingle mill ; all the
molinary operations are done at home : the corn is graddaned, or burnt out of the car,
inlUad of being thraflied : this is performed two ways; firfl, by c\itting oft' the cars,
and drying them in a kiln, then fetting fire to them on a floor, and picking out the
grains, by this operation rrndered as black as coal. The other method is more expe-
ditious, for the whole flieaf is burnt, without tlie trouble of cutting ofl' the ears : a mod
ruinous pradice, as it dedroys botii tliatch and manure, and on that account has been
vife'.y prohibited in fome of the illauds. Gradanued corn was the parched corn of
Holy Writ, 'i'hus Boaz prefents his beloved Ruth with parched corn; and Jefle
fends David with an llphah of the fame to his funs in the camp of Siul. The grinding
was alfo performed by the fame fort ofmachiive the quern, in which two women were
ncccfl'arily employed : thus it is pro])he(ied " two .vomen diall be grinding at the mill,
one fliall bo taken, the other leli." I mud oblei ve too that the illand lafles are as
merry at their work of grindi.r^r iln> Graddan, t!)e x^vjw- of the ancients, as thofe of
Greece were in the days of Aridophanes,

Willi warbled as they jTroiind llicir partlied corn •.

The quern or bra is made in fome of the neighbouring counties, in the mainland, and
cods about fourteen (hillings. This method of grinding is very tedious : for it employs
two pair of hands four hours to grind only a fingle buJhel of corn. Indead of a hair
fieve to fift the meal the inhabitan"^- liere have an ingenious fubditute, a flieep's fkin
dretched round a hoop, and performed with fmall holes made with a hot iron. They
knead their bannock with water only, and bake or rather toad it, by laying it upright
againd a done placed near the fire.

For want of lime they drefs their leather with calcined fliells : and ufe the fatne me-
thod of tanning it as in Cannay.

The inhabitants of Rum are people that fcarcely know ficknefs : if they are attacked
with a dyfentery they make ufe ot a decoction ot the roots of the Tormentilla crecta in
milk. The fmall-pox has vifited them but once in thirty-four years, only two fickencd,
and both recovered. The meafles come often.

It is not wonderful that fome fuperditions diould reign in thefe fequedered parts.
Second fight is firmly believed at this time. My informant faid that Lauchlan Mac-
Kerran of Cannay had told a gentleman that he could not red from the noife he heard
of the hammering of nails into his coffin : accordingly the gentleman died within fifteen
days.

Molly Mac-leano (aged forty) has the power of forcfceing events through a well-
fcraped blade bone of mutton. Some time ago Ihe took up one and pronounced that five
graves were foon to be opened ; one for a grown perfon : the other four for children ;
one of which was to be of her own kin : and fo it fell out. Thefe pretenders to fecond

* Nubtt. aft V. fu'cnc 11. Craddan i« derived from Grad quick, as the proccfs is expeditioui.

4 fight,

PI want's 81 uND TO' R IN BCO"! .ANIj.

3«5

fight, like the Pvthian prieflefs, durinp tht! >f)Jntioa ^«ltf Into I' fices, foam at the
inoutli, prow pale, ami feign to abllain liom i ^i ior a ir Mh^ lb overpowered are they
by the vifions imparted to them during their roxyfins.

1 muft not omit a mofl; convenient fpccies nt ^icond (igtit, polTefied by a gentleman of
a neighbouring iflc, who forefees all vifitors, 16 I. u, tinu to prepare accordingly : but
enougli of thei'e talcs, founded on impudence and nurtured by folly.

Here are only the ruins of a church in this ifland ; fo the minifter is obliged to preach,
the few times ho vifits his congregation, in the open air. The attention of our i npifli
ancellors in this article, delivers down a great reproach on the negligence of tiieir re-
formed defcendants : the one leaving not even the moll didant and lavage part of our
dominions without a place of worfliip j the other futt'ering the natives to want both in-
llrudur and temple.

July 15. 'Ihc weather grows more moderate; at one o'clock at noon fail from
Rum, with a favourable and brilk gale, for the ifle of Skie. Soon reach the point of
Slate, at the fouth end, a divifion of that great ifland, a mixture of grafs, a little corn
and much heath. Leave on tlie right the point of Arifalg. Pals beneath Armadale in
Skie, a feat beautifully wooded, gracing moll unoxpedlodly this almoll treelefs traft.
A little farther to the weft opens the mouth of Loch-in-daal, a fafe harbour, and oppo-
fite to it on the main land, that of Loch-Jurn, or the lake of Hell, with black mountains
of tremendous height inipemiing above.

The channel between tho fliire of Invernefs and Skie now contrads ; and enlarges
again to a fine bay oppollte Glenelg, between the main-land and Dunan ruagh, where
is good anchorage under Skie. At the north end of this expanfe, the two fides fuddenly
contraft, and at Kul-ri form a (Irait bounded by high lands, not a quarter of a mile
broad ; the Hood, which runs here at the fpring tides at the rate of feven knots an hour,
carried us through with great rapidity, into another expanfe perfectly land locked, and
very piclurefque. We were now arrived amidft an ampliitheatr- of mountains; the;
country of Kintail bounded us on the norih and ealt: ; and Skie (which from Loch-in-
daal became more lofty) confined us with its now wooded cliiVs to the fouth. The
ruins of an ancient cadle, feated on the pinnacle of a rock, and fomc little ifles formed
our wellern view. Thefe of old belonged to the Mac-kinnons, a vi.ry ancient race,
who call themfclvcs Clan-Alpin, or tb.e defcendants of Alpin, a Scotch monarch in thi:
yth century. Some of the line have fiill a property in Skie.

The violent i'qualls of wind darting from the apertures of the hills teazcd us for an
hour, but after various tacks at hill I\lr. Thompfon anchored lafely beneath Mac-kin-
non's call le, amidft a fleet of builes, waiting with anxiety for the appearance of herrings,
this year uncommonly late. The hard rams were no finall advantage to our fcenery.
We lay beneath a vail hill called Glailbhein, cloathed with birch and oaks, inhabited
by roes : catarads poured down in various places amidft the woods, rcmiiuling me of
the beautiful cafcades between ScheiJeck and Meyringen, in the canton of Underwalil.
This part is in the diilricl of Strath, another portion of Skie.

July 16. Land at a point called the Kyle, or paH'age, where about fourfcore horfes
were coUecled to be tranfported n l,i ri/gc to theoppoiite lliore, about a mile dillant, in
file fame manner as, I'olyhius * informs us, Hannibal palied his cavalry over the rapiil
Rhone. They were taken over by fours, by little bo;Ms, a pair on each fide held with
halters by two men, after being forced oifa rock into tl:o lea. "We undertook the con-
veyance of a pair. One, a pretty grey horfe, fwuin admirably : tin; otiicr was dragj^^'J

* Lib. iii. c 8.
S R 2

aluni';

3i6

FKNN ant's second TOTIR IW ICOTI.ANO.

along like a log ; but as foon as it arrived withiti fcont of liis companions before,
l:indcJ, revived, dil'engagcd itlclt, and took to the lliore willi prent alacrity. Some
very Rintlcinan-liko men attended thel'c animals, and with great pohteiiel's ollered their
lervices.

Among the crowd was a laJ cralis aurihiit ; his ears had never been fwaililled down,
and they liood out as nature ordained ; and I dare lity his lenfc ot hearing was more
accunite by this liberty.

'1 ho horned caitle ol' Skie are fwam over, at the narrow pnfTage of Kul-ri, at l<nv
water ; lix, ei^ht, or twelve are palled over at a time, tied with ropes made ol twilled
withies faitened from the imder jaw of the on" to the tail of the preceding, and I'o to the
ne.xt ; the firll is fadened to a boat, and thus are convev :d to the oppolite Ihore. This
is the great pafs into the ilLuul, but is di'ilitute even of a horle-feity.

Jidy 17. At (ivc in the morning quit our fituation, and pafling through a narrow
and fliort foimd, arrive in another (ine expanfe, be.iutifullv laiul-l ickeil by tlie mainl.'nd
(part of Rolslhirc) the illands of Rona and C'roulin, Rola, dillinguifhed by the high
hillock, called Duncanna ; Scalpa, and the low verdant ille (^f Pahay, in old times th.*
feat ot aflaflins *. Skie (hows a verdant flopo for part of its fhore : beyond ioar tl.o
conic nakeil hills of Straith, and flill farther the ragged heights ol Blaven.

See, behind us, the ruins of the cadle, and the entrance of the bay we had left, the
opcniii;;s into the great lochs of Killerne and t'arron, and, as a b.ick-ground, a bouiid-
lefs chain of rugged mountains. The day was perfedly clear, and the fea fmooth as a
mirrour, dilhirbed hut by the blowing of two whaLs, who entertained us for a cunlider-
able fpace by xhcjit d\aus from their orifices.

Mr. Mac kinnon, junior, one of the gentlemen we faw with the horfes, overtakes us
in a boat, and pred'ed us to accept the entertainment of his father's houfe of C'.oire-
chattachan, in the neighbouring part of Skie. After landing near the ille of Scalpa, and
V alking about two miles along a Hat, arrive at the 'juarters fo kindly provided ; direct-
ing Mr. i hompfon to carry the veffel to the nortli part of Skie.

The country is divided by low banks of earth, and, like the other idands, has more
palluragc than corn. In my walk to Kilchrid, the church of the pariih of Stratii, {.\\w
in the road-lidc drata of hme-donc and done-marle, the former grey, the lad whiie,
and in many parts didblved into an impalpable powder, and ready to the hands of the
farmer. It is edccmed a fine manure, but better lor corn than grafs.

Ntar the church ;ire \:\lMlrata ot line wliiie marble, and iome veined with grev,
which I recognized to iiave been the bed, from whence the altar at Jona had been
forintd. Oblerve alio great quantities of wiiite granite, fpotted with black. MidV'--.
I.igh'iojt and Stuart afceiid the high lime-done mountain of Btinn-dmardal, and tual it
in a manner covered with that rare plant the Dryas adop^ la.

On my return am entertained with a rehearfal, I may call it, of the Luagli, or walk-
ing ol Cicih, a fubflitute iur the fulling-mill : twelve or fourteen women, di\iJed into
two equal numbers, fit down on each fide of a long board, ribbed lengthways, placing
the cloih on it : fird th'.y I cgin to work it backwards and forwarils wich their hands,
finping at the fame time, as at the quern : when they iiavc tired tlieir h.i!\ds, every fj.
ma'e ufes her leet for tiie fame purpole, and fix or feven pair of naked feet are in the
ini d violent agitation, wcirkiug one againd the oiher: as by thi.s time they grow
very earned in their labours, the fury of the fong rifes ; at length it arrives to
fuch a pitch, that without breach of charity you would imagine a troop of female dc-
tnoniacs to have been alVeinbled.

• Iiii!:i tiiLc uf ihc Utan all d.eft little iflcs were full of wooJs, at prtfcnt quite iiaktd,

Thev

I *

FF.NNANT 8 SECOND TOUR IN 8C0TI.AVI). 317

They fine; in the faino manner when tliey arc ciitfinj^ down the cnrn, wlicn thirty or
forty join in chorus, kri'ping time to the ibund tit a bagpipe, asthj (irccian lallcs wero
wont totio to that ot'a lyre during vintage in the days ot Homer*. 'I'hc fubjedoK the
ivwy^s at the I,ua;^liailh, the quirn, and on this ocealion, are roinetimcs love, lometinii-'s
panegyric, and olten a rehearfal oi the deeds of the ancient heroes, but commonly all
the tunes flow ;ind nielauclKjly.

SinginfT at the quern is now almolt out of date fincc the Introdudionof water-mills.
The laird can oblige his tenants, as in ]''.iii;land, to make ul'e of this more expeditious
kind of grindin;; ; and empowers his n\iller to I'ear^li out and break aiiy qujriis lie cui
fuul,as nuuIiiiK'S that defraud him of the toll. Many centuries pad, the l(>;^ill;iture at-
tempted t ■> difcourage thi'fe aukward mills, fo prejudicial to the landlords, who hatl beetl
at the exponco of others. In 1284, in the time of Alexander III. it was provided, that
" na man fall prelume to grind quiieir mailhloch, or rye, with hands mylni.>, except he
be compelled by dorm, or be in lack of mills quhilk fould grind the faiiien. And iu
this cafe gd' a man grindi'S at hand mylni'S, lie fal giftlie thi- itin mi'aCure annuiUcr, and
f',if anie man contraveins this our prohibition, he lall tine \u:. hand mylucs perpjtUid-
lie."

July I?. Walk up Ri>inn-a-caillich, or, the hill of the old hat^ ; ono of thofj pic-
turefqiie mountains that madi' Inch a figure from the lea. Alter aleendiui^a fmallpirr,
find its fides covered with vail loofe lloncfi, like the paps of Jura, the {helti.r of ptarmi-
gans: the top Hat and naked, with an artificial cairn, of a molt enormous li/o, rep' rt' d
to have been the place of (epulture of a gigantic woman in the days of Fingul. Th^'
profped to the well was that of defolation itfelf ; a lavage ferics of rude mountains, dif-
coloured, bfick and red, as if by the rage of fire. Nearell, joined to this hill by a rid;j,e
is Reia an ghrianan, or the mountain of the Sun ; perhaps venerated in ancient tunes.
MaUmore, or the round mouiuain, appears on the north. The ferrated tops of Blavcn
affed with alloniflnnent ; and beyoiul them, the chdlcrcd height of Ouillin, or the
mountain of C'uchullin, like its ancient hero f, " (lood like a hill that catches the clouds
of heaven." '1 he deep recedes between thefe Alps, in times of old, polfelled " the
foils of the narrow vales, the hunters ot deer j" and to thistimt: are inhabited by a fine
race of lings.

The view to the north-call and fouth-wefl: is not Icfs ainufing : a fea fprinkled over
with various iiijs, and the long extait of coall foaring into all the forms of Alpine wild-
nefs. I nmll not omit that the point of Camilkotel, on the Ibuth of Skie, was Ihowed
to me at a dillance, famous for the cave which ;',ave iheltcr for two nights to the young
adventurer, and his fiithful guide, the aiu ient Mac kiiinon.

Leave t'.oire-chattachan, after experiencing every civility from the family ; and from
the Rev. Mr. NichoUbn, the minifler. Wind afMiii; th-^ bottoms ot the lleop hills. P.ils
bv the end of Loch-na]ipan to the louth. See a lionc dike or fence called Paraicnam
fiadh., or the inclolurw' lA' a deer, which feeins once vo have bocn continued up a neigh-
bouring hill. In one angle is a ludlow, iii the days of OlJian, a pitfall covered with
boughs for the dellrudion of the animals chafed into it. I'iaces of this name are very
connnon, and vury neceifary, when tlie food of mankind was tho beads of the field.

Turn towards the northern coult ; pals by the end of Loch-lligacluux, and foon after
by the fide of tiie finall frelh water Loch na-caiplich, filled ui;h that fcarce plant

• lliail, xviii. liiir 570.

t His iiliiUiicc is lai'J to have been at D>infcaich, iu this iflaiiJ. The litcr.il meaning of Quillin, cr
CuUiii, is a narrow dark hulluw.

Eriocaulon

'.i!i

31 S PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Kriocaulon decangulare, firft difcovered by Mr. James Robertfon. Breakfaft at Scon-
fcr, one of the pod-offices, an inn oppofite to ftafa, an illand nine miles long and throe
broad, divided from Skie by a found a mile broad. On the fliore, the houfe of Mr.
iMacleod, the owner of Rafa, makes a pretty figure. The Dean fpeaks of this ifland,
'' as having maney deires, pairt of profitable landes inhabit, and manurit, with twa
caiUcs, to wit, the caftle of Kilmorociir, and the caltle of Brolokit, with twa fair orchards
at the faids twa cables with ane parifh kirke, called Kilmolowocke. In his time, he
fays, it pcrteining to Mac-ghyllichallan of Raarfay be the fword, and to the bifliopeof
the illes be heritage." This ufurpcr was a vafTul of Macleod of Lewis, who probably
confii^ncd it to his chieftain, from whom the prefent proprietor derives his family.

Continue our journey pointing to the fouth-wc(t. Meet great droves of fine cattle,
on their way to change of pafturc. See a finall quantity of very poor flax, raifed fron»
tJK- feed of their country, a very unpro'".table management ; but the greatefl part of the
land was covered with heath. Leave to the left the mountains of Cuchullin, Cullin, or
t^uiliin, which reach to the Tea. Come to the end of Loch-lJracadale, which pierces
the iiland on tiiis fide. Skie is fo divided by branches of the fea, that there is not a place
five niilts diftant froui a port ; fuch numbei's of good harbours arc there in a place
dcititute of trade, and without a finale town. Near the end of this loch the ground is
more cultivated ; but all the corn land is dug with the caschrom or crooked fpade,
inltcad of being ploughed : ciglit men are neccllary to dig as much in a day as a fingle
plough would turn up : the harrows are commonly tied to the horfes tails ; but in very
wet land, the men and women break the i'ods by dragging over them a block of wood,
with teeth and a long handle, called Raachgan.

Delcend through a narrow pals, and arrive inRantly in a ti*aft flat as any in Holland,
oponihg to the well a fine diflant view of north and Ibuth Uill, and other parts of the
Long illand : bounded on the other three fides by high precipices, cidivened with cata-
racts formed hy the heavy rains. In a wood in a fiiiig corner lies Talylkir, inhabited by
Mr. Macleod, lieutenant-colonel in the Dutch Icrvicc, who with tlieutin()(l hofpitality
Iheltered us from the inclemency of the day. This houfe belongs to the chief of the
tKune ; and in old times \s as .dways the portion of a IVcond ion : lie enjoyed it for life,
with the view of giving hin\ the means ot educating his children ; v. ho after that were
left to the care of fortune ; which cuflonr filK-d loreign '"ervice with a gallant let of
officers. Daughtei's of chieftains were generally portioned with caltle ; and often with
a fet of flout men, who in feudal times were valuable aequiliiions to the hulhand, who
eflimated his wealth by the power of his people, for he inllantly adopted and incorpo.
rated them with his own clan.

It will not be impertinent to mention here the origin of the Scotch regiments in the
Dutch fervice. They were formed out of fome independent companies, lent over either
in the reign ofF.lizabeth or James VI At prefent the common foLIJers are but nomi-
nally national, for fuice thefcireity of men, occafioned by the late war, Holland is no
longer permitted to draw her recruits out of North Britain. Hut the oflieers are all
Scotch, who arc obliged to take oaths to our goveinment, and to qualify inprefenceof
our ambalVador at the Ilaeue.

June 20. See here a Cly-more, or great two-handed fword, probably of the fanre kind
with the //;^?r^;/tJ\if/.'(/// of the Caledonians, mentioned by Tacitus : an unwieldy weapon,
two inches broad, i.loid)ly edged ; the length ol llie blade three feet leven inches ; of
the handle, fourteen inches; of a plain traiifverU- guard one foot; the weight fix
pounds and a half. Thel'e long fwords were the original weapons of our country, as
appears by a figure of a foldier, Icund among the ruins uf London, after the great fire,

A. D.

pennant's second tour IM SCOTLAND.

319

A.D. 1 666, and proferved at Oxfor^i * : his fword is of a vafl length, his hair flowinfj,
his legs bare, his lower garment fliort, and fiiftened by a girdle round his waift ; the
fagum is flung carelefsly over his bread and one arm, ready to be flung ofl-', as cuftoni
was, in time of adtion. The great broad fword, and much the fame kind of drefs, were
preferved in tho Highlands to the la'l age, at the battle of Ki'Iicrankie : the upper gar-
ment was thrown off by the Highlanders, in order to enable them to ufe this two-
handed inftrument with greater effect. But the enormous length of weapon has been
found ufelefs againd the firmnefs of determined troops, from the battle of the f Mons
Grampius, to the recent victory of Culloden. The fhort fwords of the forces of Agri-
cola, and the bayonets of theBritilh regulars, were equally fuperior.

Colonel Macleod favours me with a weapon, common to the Romans, Scandinavians,
and Britons. It is a brazen fword, whofe blade is twenty-two inches long ; the handle
(including a round hollow pummel) five and a half ; the middle of the blade fwell*? out
on both fides, and the edges very (harp ; the end pointed ; we are told | that the Scab-
bards are of brafs, but this was deftitute of one. The weapon was found in Skie.
The fame kind is met with in many parts of Scotland and of Wales, which the Danes
have vifited j and they have been frequently difcovered in tumuli, and other fepulchres,
in Denmark and HoH'ace, dcpofited there with the urns in honour of the deceafed §.
Others, fimilar, have been found in Sweden ||.

Walk down the eaft fide of the vale, and fee the well of CuchuUin. Take boat near
the lofty infulated rock, Stach in nuchidar, or that of the fuller, pyramidal and inclin-
ing : am rowed beneath a range of magnificent cliffs, at whofe bafe were lodged plenty
of white cryftallized zeolite, and vaft rocks of (lone, of the appearance of lava, filled
with rounded kernels.

Our boat's crew were iflanders, who gave a fpecimen of marine mufic, called in the
Erfe, Jorrams: thefe fongs, when well compofed, are intended to regulate the ftrokes
of the oars, and recall to mind the cuftoms of claffical days.

Medix flat margiiie puppfs
Qiii voce alternos nautarutn temperct iiftui,
Et remis didtet fonitein, pariterqvie rthtis,
■Ad numeuim plaudat refonantia cxruUi loiifis.

SiLivs, lib. iv.

But In modern times they are generally fung in couplets, the whole crew joining in
chorus at certain intervals : the notes are commonly long, the airs folomn and flow,
rarely chearful,it being impoflible for the oars to keep a quick time : the words gene-
rally have a religious turn, confonant to that of the people.

July 21. Vifit a high hill, called Briis-mhawl, about a milo fouth of Talyflvir, having
in the front a fine fcries of genuine bafaltic columns, refembling the Giant's caufeway :
the piUars were above twenty feet high, confiding of four, five and fix angles, but mpltly
of five : the columns lefs frequently jointed than thofe of the Irifli ; the joints
being at great and unequal didances, but the majority are entire : even thofe that are

{'ointed are lefs concave and convex on their oppolite furface than the columns of the
brmer. The dratum that reded on this colonade was very irregular and fliattery, yet
feemed to make fome effort at form. The ruins of the columns at the bafe made a

* Montfaiicon, Antiq iv. 16. tab. x.
X Sibbald Append. Hill. Fife, p li.
§ Wormii Mon, Dan. p. 48. tab. p. 50. Worm. Miif.
tact. iii. II Dalilbcrg, Suec. Ant. tab

•j- Taciti vit. Agric. c. 36.

Jacob. Mu^ Rfjj. Ilavn'ae. pars 11.

354-
3'4-

grand

\to

PENNANT S srcOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

prand appearance : thefo were tlie ruins of the creation ; thofe of Rome, the work of
Jiuinan art, fcem to them but as the ruins of yelterciay.

At a fm.ill diltance from thefe, on the Hope of a hill, is a traCi of fome roods entirely
formed of the tops of feveral feries of columns, even and clofe fet, forming a reticulated
i'urface of amaiiing beauty imd curioilty. This is the molt northern balaltcs 1 am ac-
t]uainred with : the lall of four in tlic Britilh dominions, all running from fouth to
north, nearly in a meridian : the Giunt's Caufeway appears fuil j Slafla fuccceds ; thu
jock of Hunibhi, about twenty leagues further ; and, (inally, the column of Briis-
nihawl : the depth of ocean, in all probability, conceals the loit links i)f this chain.

'lake leave of Talylkir. S • very near to the houfo the veliiges of fome fmall
buildings, and bv tiuin a he;ip or liunes, with a bafaliic column fet erecl in the middle.
Crofs a range of barroix lands for ii.ur miles ; reach Loch-liracadale. Exchange our
horfes for a boat. Pafs over this be uitiful land-locked harbour abounding with fafe
creeks. Cod-filh fwarm h(.ro in tlie lu'rrinsr feafon purfuing the fhoals : a man with
a fingle hand line caught in three hours as many as were fold for three guineas, at
the rate of twopence a piece. Land, after a trajcCt of four miles, and find ready a
new fet of horles.

This feems to me the fittcft place in the ifland for the forming of a town. The
harbour is deep and unlpcakably fecure. It is the Milford haven of thefe parts; it
opens at its mouth to the belt part of the fea. Skie has not in it a fingle town or even
village. But what is a ^^reater \\t)nd<.'r, there is not a town from Camphelton in
the Firth of Clvde to Ti.urfo at the end of Caithncfs, a trad of above two hundreu
miles.

Proceed : ride by, at Struam, a beautiful Danifli fort on the top of a rock, formed
with mofi excellent maionry. 1 he figure as ufual circular. The diameter from out-
fide to outfide fi\fy fi-et ; of the inlide ibrty-two. Within are the velligts of five
apartments, one in the centre, finir around; the walls are eighteen feet high. The
entrance fix feit high, covered with great ilones.

About a furlong north-wefi of this, is another large rock precipitous on all fides
but one. On that i.^ the ruin of a very thick wall, and the traces of a dike quite round,
even on the inacceflible parts. Between which and liio wall is a large area. This
feems to have been built without regularity, yet probably belonged to the fame nation.
Each feems defigned to cover an alVomblage of people who lived beneath their pro-
tcdion in a hollile country, for under both are remains of numbers of finall buildings
with regular entrances. 'Ihe laft inclofure is fuppofed to have been defigned for the
fecurity of the cattle, of which thefe free-booters had robbed the natives; and this
fpecies is dillinguilhcd by the name of Boaghun.

Thefe forirelies are called univerlally in the Erfe, Duns. I find that they are very
rare in the country from whence they took their origin ; no people will give themfelves
the trouble of fijrtifyiiig ag.iinll the fecurity of Irieiids. Mr. Frederic Suhm of Ci")pen-
hagen, whom I had the pleafure of addrefling on this fubjeC^, could point out but a
fingle, inflance of a fimilar tower, and that on the Sualllberv, a mountain half a Nor-
wegian league dil'lant Irom DnMitheim. But we may expoCl further elucidations from
a Ikilful antiquary now on the tour of the country.

About two miles farther, fee near the road-fiile tiro large conoid cairns; pafs near
the end of Doch-cu-roy, a branch of the nuble Loch-Biacadale, anu fuon after reach
the callle of

Dun-vegan, the feat of Mr. Maclcod, a gentleman defcended from one of the Nor-
wegian vicc-roys, governors of the ifles while they bore a foreign yoke. But the an-

i tiquity

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

321

ing, return with more than wonted vigour,
aboliflied ; the delegated rod of power is n(

tiquity of his defccnt is an accident that would convey little honour to him, had he
not a much more fuhflantial claim ; for, to all the milkinefs of human nature ufually
conconiitant with his early agx?, is added, the fenfe and firmnefs of more advanced
Vik'. He feels for the diflrclfis of his people, and infenfible of his own, with uncom-
mon difintcrcftednefs, has rclievetl his tenants from their oppreflive rents ; has received
inflead of the tra(h of gold, tlie treaiurc ()f warm affections, and unfeigned prayer.
He will foon cxptricnce the good eflefts of his goncrofity ; gratitude, the refult of the
fenfibility ftill cxifting among thofe nccuflomcd to a feudal government, will (hew itfelf
in more than empty words ; and in time they will not fail exerting every nerve to give
his virtue the due reward. Feudal governments, like that of unmixed monarchy, has
its conveniences and its bleflings. The bit rart'ly occur from the imperfeftion of
human nature : One Being only can lay claim to that ; therefore it is the bufinefs of
every honclt n\an to refilc the very appearance of undivlJed power in a prince, or
the Hiadow of independency in a fubjeit. The Highlanders may blefs the hand that
loofencd their bonds ; for tyranny more ofton than protection was the attendance on
their vaflalage. Yet ftill from long luibitudc, and from the gleams of kindnefs that
darted every now and then amidil; the florms of fcvciity, was kindled a fort of filial re-
verence to 'leir chieftain : this ftill is in a ^eat degree retained, and may, by cheriih-

The noxious part of the feudal reign is
now no more. IJut let not the good part be
loft with the bad : the tender relation that patriarchal government experiences, (hould
ftill be retained ; and the mutual inclination to beneficence preferved. The chieftain
fliould not lofe, with the power of doing harm, the diipofition of doing good. Such are
the fentinionts of Mr. Macleod, which ripen into aftions, that, if perfiUed in, will bring
lafting comfort into his own bolbm, and the moft defired of bleflings amongft a nu-
merous clan.

The caftle of Dun-vegan is feated on a high rock, over a loch of the fame name, a
branch of Loch Falart. Part is modernized, but the greateft portion is ancient : the
oldeft is a fquare tower, which with a wall round the edge of the rock, was the origi-
nal rtrength of the place. Adjacent is a village and the poft-ofHce ; for from hence
a pacquet-boat, fupported by fubfcription, fails every fortnight for the Long Ifland.

Here is preferved the Braolauch (hi, or fairy-flag of the family, beftowed on it byTi-
tania the Ben-(hi, or wife to Oberon king of the fairies. She bleflfed it at the fame
time with powers of the firft importance, which were to be exerted on only three oc-
cafions : but, on the laft, after the end was obtained, an invifible Being is to arrive and
carry off ftandard and flandard-bearer, never more to be feen. A family of Clan y
Faitter had this dangerous office, and held by it free lands in Bracadale.

The flag has been produced thrice. The firft time in an unequal engagement againfl
the Clan-Roland, to whofe fight the Macleods were multiplied ten-fold. The fecond
preferved the heir of the family, being then produced to fave the longing of the lady ;
and the third time, to fave my own ; but it was fo tattered, that Titania did not feem
to think it worth lending for.

This was a fupcrlUtion derived from the Norwegian anceftry of the honfe ; the
fable was caught from the country, and might be of ufe to animate the clan. The
Danes had their magical ftandard, Reafan, or, the raven, embroidered in an inftant
by the three daughters of Lodbroke, and fillers oF Hinguar, Hubba, or Ivar *. Sigurd
had an enchanted flag given him by his mother, with circumftances fomewhat fimilar

VOL. III.

* Affer. vit. Alfred. i«.
T T

t«

. .?(', }

3a»

FBKNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

If';

to the Dun-vegan colours : whofoever bore it in the day of battle Was to be killed ;
accordingly in one of his battles three ftandard-bearers were fucceffively flain ; but on
the death of the lad he obtained the vidory *.

Here is preferved a great ox-horn, tipped with filver ; the arm was twlfted round
its fpires, the mouth brought over the elbow, and then drank off. The northern
nations held this fpecies of cup in high eftcem, and ufcd the capacious horns of the
great Aurochs t. They graced the horpitable halts of kings J, and out of them the
ancient heroes quenched their thirft : Haquin §, weary with flaughter, calls aloud for
the mighty draught :

Hen labor immenfus, fc(roi quam velFicat artui ! ..

Quis mihi jam prxbct cornua plena mero \

In this caftle is alfo preferved a round (hield, made of iron, that even in its decayed
flate weighs near twenty pounds ; itfelf a load in thefe degenerate days ; yet they were
in ufe no longer ago than in the beginning of the lad century. Each chieftain had his
armour-bearer, who preceded his mailer in time of war, and, by my author's |j account,
in time of peace ; for they went armed even to church, in the manner the North
Americans do at prefent in the frontier fettlement, and for the fame reafon, the dread
of favages.

In times long before thofe, the ancient Scotch ufed round targets, made of oak,
covered with the hides of bulls ; and long fliields, narrow below and broad above^
formed of pieces of oak or willow, fecured with iron : I guefs them to be of the fame
kind with the Norwegian (hields figured by Wormius ^, and probably derived from the
fame country. They had alfo a guard for their (houldcrs, called Scapul j and for
oflFenfive weapons had the bow, fword, two handed fword, and Lochaber ax, a weapon
likewife of Norwegian origin. But the image-tombs of ancient warriors are the belt
leflures on this fubjed.

Mr. Macqueen informs me, that near this place is an Anait, or druidical place of
worlhip, of which there are four in Skie, much of the fame fituation and conftrudion.
This lies in the heart of an extenfive moor, between the confluence of two waters.
To the eaft ftands one hill, to the weft another : which gradually flope down toward
the plain, and from which a clear profpedl might be had of all that pafTed below.
From one of thefe waters to the other is a ftrong ftone wall, forming an equilateral
triangle ; the rocks face it towards tiie water, and every crevice is filled with (tones
regularly laid ; fo that it feems to have been on that fpot inaccefllblc in former days.
N.Mr the centre of this triangle, is a fmall fquare edifice of quarried (tones, and on
each fide of the entrance which leads to it from the wall, are the remains of two
houfes, both within and without. In thofe lodged the priefts and their families; the
fervants moll probably on the outfide. A ilrong turf rampart proteded alfo the wall
from water to water, acrofs a rifing ground, which hath been cut through by a road
leading from the Tempul na Anait tas the edifice is called) a great way into the
moor. There is no tradi.ion of the ufe of this place. My learnod fritnJ fuppofes it
to have been dtfigncd for the worfliip of the Earth, Bendis or Diana, whicli, accord-
ing to Ilefychius, was fuppofcd to be the fame. Plutarch gives the fame go jjclii tijc
title of Anait, the name of this place of worfliip ; and Pliny fpeaks of a country in

• Torf3Pii5, J7.

f Ururum cornibui, Barbari rcptcntrionalei potant, urnafque binas capitis uniuscornua implent.
lib. ii. c. 37. \ Saxo Oramnut. 94. ^ Worinii Moa. Dan. jiiy.

■! Timothy Font'* M. S. Advo. Library. 5 Worm.

Pliiiii

Armeniai

PP.NNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND,

3«3

Armenia, called Analtica, from Anaitis, a goddefs in great repute there, where a
noble temple had been built, which was plundered of its immenfe riches by thefoldiers
of Antony in his Parthian expedition. Paufanias alfo fpeaks of the temple of Diana
the Anait. Thefe temples were erefted when the purity of the Celtic religion had
been debafed by the extravagance of fancy, and idols introduced. Here we may fup-
pofe that this deity was worfhipped in the utmoft fimplicity.

July 22. Proceed on our journey; pafs over a black and pathlefs traft of moor
and bog, for about fifteen miles. Dine on a foft fpot of heath, with that appetite
which exercife and the free air never fail to create. Arrive on the banks of Loch*
Grilernis, a branch of Loch-fnifart : take boat ; obferve that the ropes for the filhing-
nets are made of the purple melic grafs, the pund-glafs of the Highlanders, remarkable
for lading long without rotting. After a paffage of a mile, land at Kinglburgh ; im-
mortalized by its miftrefs, the celebrated Flora Mac-Donald, the fair protedrefs of a
fugitive adventurer ; who, after fome days concealing himfelf from purluit, in the dif-
guife of a lady's maid, here flung off the female habit. I had the pleafure of her ac-
quaintance at the firft Sir Watkin William Wynne's in the year 1746; but at this
time I unforturiately found that (he was abfent on a vifit.

Mr. Macdonald did me the favour of prefenting me with three very curious pieces
of antiquity : an urn, a Glain-naidr, or ferpent-bead, and a Denarius, found not re-
mote from his houfe. The firft is an urn of elegant workmanfliip, found in a ftone
cheft, formed of fix flags as before defcribed : this urn was filled with alhes ; was
placed not prone, as that mentioned in the former volume, but with the mouth up,
and covered with a light thin ftone. This was difcovered beneath an immenfe

cairn

The Glain-naidr, or Druidical bead, as it Is vulgarly called, is an unique in its kind,
being of a triangular fliape ; but, as ufual, made of glafs, marked with figures of fer-
pents coiled up. The common people in Wales and in Scotland retain the fame
fuperOitions relating to it as the ancients, and call it by the name of Serpent-ftone.
The Gauls, taught by their priefts, believed the ftrangeft tales of their ferpents, de-
fcribed from the profe of Livy, in a moft fpirited manner, by the ingenious Mr. Mafon,
who thus makes his Druid demand of a fapient brother :

But tell me yet
From the grot of charms and Tpcllt,
Where our matron filler dwells ;
Breiuius, hai> thy holy hand
t Safely brought the Uruid wand,

And the potent adder.ftone,
Gendcr'd 'fore the autumnal moon i
When in undulating twine
The foaming fnaket prolific join ;
When they liifs, and when they bear
Their wund'rout egg aloof in air ;
Thence, before to earth it fall.
The Druid in his holy pall.
Receives the prize,
And inilant flics,

Follow'd by the envenom'd brood.
Till he crofs the filver .lood.

The ancients and modems agree in their belief of its powers} that 'good fortune
attends the pofleffor wherever he goes. The ftupid Claudius, that Ludibrium auls

T T 2 Augujii

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

Augujiif put td death a Gaulifli * knight, for no other reafon than that he carrieu ovum
anguinutHi a ferpent-rtone about him. The vulgar of the prefent age attribute to it other
virtues; fuch as its curing the bite of the addvr, and giving eafe to women in child-
birth, if tied about the knee : fo ditficult is it to root out follies that have the fanclion
of antiquity.

The laft favour that I was indebted to Mr. Mac-donald for, is a denarius of the Em-
peror Trajan, found on a njoor near the fliore of I.och-Grifernis ; a probable, but not
u certain evidence that the Romans had landed in tliis ifland. We have no lights from
hiftory to enable us to fay what was done during tlio reign of that emperor : in the fuc-
ceeding, Adrian reduced the bounds of the empire to the place Hill called his wall, and
loft all communication with the idands j but in the following reign tlii.y were extended
to their ancient bounds, and tlve illes might be vifited from the Ciioia ciluurium, the
llation of the fleet, and the money in queltion loft at that time in Skie. But its being
found there may be accounted for by another fuppofition ; that qi its having been the
booty of an ifland foldier, taken from the Romans in fome of the numberlefs ikirmiflies
in one of the following reigns, and brought here as a mark of vidory.

I obferve that the great fcallop-fliell is made ufe of in the dairies of this country for
the (kiinming of milk. In old times it had a more honourable place, being admitted
into the halls of heroes, and was the cup of their feftivity. As Doclor Mac-pherfon
exprefles it, " The whole tribe filled the hall of the chieftain ; trunks of trees covered
with mofs were laid in form of tables from one end to the other ; whole beeves or deer
were roalled and laid before them on rough boards, or hurdles of rods woven together:
the pipers played wiiile they fat at table, and fdence was obferved by all. Atter the
feaft was over, th.'y had huiicrous entertainments ; a prailice ftill continued in part of
the in^hlands : thefeinaics retired, and the old and young warriors fat in order, down
trom the chieftain, according to their proximity in blood to him ; the harp was then
touch;.'d, the fong w;,s raifedjand the fliga-crcchin, or tlnj vUiaking-lhfll, went round."

Am lodged this night in the ftiiie bed that formerly received the unfortunate Cliiarlcs
Stuart. Mere he lay one ni,i;hr, after having been for Ibme time hi a female habit un-
der the protection of Flora Macdonnld. Near this place he refumed the drels of his
uwn fex by the alliilance of the mailer of the houfc, Mr. Alexander Macdonald, who
fufl'erf d a long imprifonnient on that account ; but neither the fear of pmiiflunent, nor
the piomJlLS ijf reward, could induce him fo infrinj^e the rights of hofpitaliiy, by be-
traying an unhappv tn;ui v> ho had Ikmg hiinlclf unucr his protetflion, lie prelL-nted mo
with a pair of gloves worn bv Charles Stuart while he :ij>p?ared in the character of the
tend.T fex : they are kept :;s a memorial ol a daring adventure, moft onequaily fup-
porti'd.

July 23. Leave Kingtbui'gli, travel on a good horfe road, pals by a caini, with a
great done at the top, called the hi;',h-ft.one of Ugg. 1 niuft remark, that the Danes
left Leliind them m many \A,Ki s the names ot their deities, their heroes, and th.ir bards :
thus ill the rock !Iumbla i? perpetuated the name of iJunibluv f, one of their ancivnt
kings; the ille ol (Junna { airumed thj title of one of the Valkyrii', the fatal filt-.-s;
Ulva takes its name trum the bcar-bet^otieii hero LMvo § ; and the Hone ot Ugg foenis
to have been ere» ted int«ein<n'y of tlie poet Uggerus |{.

Blneath is the fertile bottom of" Vg;^, laughing with eorn : afcend a hill, anJ on the
other fide defcend into the parilh of Kihnore, the granary of Skie. Leave, on the left.

* Pliiiii, lib. xxix. c. 3.
f bax. Gram. 5.

I'quitini Romanum c Vocowiisi a pcP|»Ic of Daiipliitijr.
X 'I'otfxuJ, 36. § S«x. Gram, txjy

II Il»'(i. )<8.

Mugg

iaftot,

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

3^S

Pfuggaftot, the principal houfe of Sir Alexander Mac-donald, lineally delcended from
tie lords of the ifles : all the ellatcs at preient polllHed by that gentleman were bi-
llowed by John, the lafl Regains, and luirl of Rols, on hiy brother Hugh, and con-
iirnied by a charter dated at Arus, in the year 1449, and afterward: by James IV. ac
Sterling, in 1 495. _ ^

Beneath the houfe was the bkeofSt. Coluniba, now drained ; once noted for a mo-
naftery of great antiquity, placed in an ilUuid. i'he ruins evince its age, being built
with great (lones, without mortar, in the manner cuftomary in the times of druidifm.
The cells and fevoral rooms are Hill very dilHnguifliable. The chapel is of a later date,
and built with mortar, as arc all the other chapels in Skie, and in the little iflands along
its fliores : thcfe chapels were ferved by the monks : the place tliey landed on, in order
to difchargc thefe religious duties, was called Pein-orah, or the land of prayer; for
after folemnly recommending themfelves, and the objeds of their journey, to the Mofl
High, they ibparated, and took their refpedive routes.

Purfue our journey. A minifter, who gave us the pleafure of his company, obferved
to us, that a couple were in purfuit of him in order to have their nuptials celebrated :
unwilling to be the caufe of deferring their happinefs, I begged he would not on my
account delay the ceremony : we took poirefllon of a cottage ; the minilter laid before
them the duties of the marriage ftate, afked whether they took each other willingly ?
joined their hands, and concluded with a prayer. I obferved that the bridegroom put
all the powers of magic to defiance, fur he was married with both fhocs tied with their
latchct.

Not many years have elapfed fmcc it was cuftomary in fome parts of the north of
Scotland for tlie lairds to interfere in the marriages of their vaflals, and direft the pair-
ing of their people. Thefe fl range tyrannies, thefe oppreflions of inclination, feem to
have occafioned the law of Alexander I. to prevent fuch a foundation for domeftic mi-
fery j it is indeed the cafe of the widow only that he took into confideration. " Na
widow ''fays the fhitute) fould be couipelled to marie gif fche pleafe to Hve without ane
huflrand, but fchc {'ould give fecuritie that fche fall not marie without confent of hir
loj'd, gif fche holds of ane other than the king."

Take a repad at the houfe oi Sir Alexander Mac-donald's piper, who, according to
ancient cuftom, by virtue of his oflice, holds his lands free. His dwelling, like many
others in this country, confifts of feveral apartments : the firft for his cattle during
winter ; the fecond is his hall ; the third for the reception of ftrangers ; and the fourth
for the lodging of his family : all the rooms within one another.

The owner was quite mafter of his inftrument, and treated us with feveral tunes.
In feudal times the Macdonalds had in this illund a college of pipers, and the Macleods
had the like ; thefe had regular appointments in land, and received pupils from all the
neighbouring chieftains. • The Mac-kartcrs were chief pipers to the firft ; the Mac-
krumens to the laft.

The bagpipe has been a favourite inftrumcnt with the Scots, and has two vaneties :
the one with fliort pipes, played on with the fingers ; the other with long pipes, and
founded with the mouth : this is the loudeft and moft ear-piercing of all mufic, is the
genuine highland pipe, and fuited well the warlike genius of the people, roufed their
courage to battle, alarmed them when fecure, and collected them when fcattered ; fo-
laced them in their long and painful marches, and in times of peace kept up the me-
mory of the gallantry of their anceftors, by tunes compofed after fignal vidories ; and
too often kept up the fpirit of revenge, by airs expreilive of defeats or mall'acres from
rival clans. One of the tunes, wild and tempeftuous, is faid to have been played at thei

bloody

ll ^..L^i'

'■. 'i> ■■^]\

!t:::l

32€ pennant'u second tour m Scotland.

bloody battle of Harlaw, when Donald, Lord of the ifles, in 1410, oppofcd the powers
of .Tamos I. under the condutt of Alexander Stuart, Karl of Mar.

Neither of thefe inllruments were the invention of the Danes, or, as h commonly
fuppofed, of any of the northern nations ; for their ancient writers prove them to have ,
been animated with the c angor tubariun. Notwiihllunding they have had their fceck-
pipe long amongd them, as their old fongs * prove, yet we cannot allow tlicm the ho-
nour of inventing this melodious inftrument ; but mull allert that they borrowed it
from the invaded Caledonians. We mu(k Uill go fanlicr, and deprive even that an-
cient race of the credit ; and derive its origin from the mild climate of Italy, perhaps
from Greece.

There is now in Rome a mofl beautiful bas-relievo, a Grecian fculpturo of the high-
eft antiquity, of a bagpiper playing on his inllrument, cxaftly like a modern highlander.
The Creeks had their Ao-xaj/.^j, or inftrument compofed of a pipe and blown-up Jkin :
the Romans in all probability borrowed it from them, and introduced it among their
fwains, who (till ufe it under the names oi piva and cormi mufa f.

That mailer of niufic, Nero, ufed one | ; and had not ihe empire been fo fuddenly
deprived of that great artift, he would (as he gracioufly declared his intention) have
treated tho people with a concert ; and, among other curious inftrunients, would have
introduced the utricularius, or bagpipe. Nero perifhed, but the figure of the inftru-
inent is preferved on one of his coins, but highly improved by that great mailer. It has
the bag and two of the vulgar pipes, but was blown with a bellows, like an organ, and
had on one fide a row of nine unequal pipes, refemb ing the fyrinx of the god Pan§.
The bagpipe, in the unimproved ftate, is alfo reprefented in an ancient (Sculpture, and
appears to have had two long pipes or drones |(, and a fingle (hort pipe for the fingers.
Tradition fays, that the kind played on by the mouth was introduced by the Danes.
As their's was wind mufic, we will admit that they might have made improvement, but
more we cannot allow : they were (killed in the uie of the trumpet ; the highlanders in
the piohb, or bagpipe.

Non tuba in iiTa ill!*, conjeAa at tibia in utrcm
Dat belli fignum, et tnaitem vocat horrida in arma f .

Proceed two miles farther ; pafs under a high hill, with a precipitous front, ftyled
Sgor-more, or the great projeftion ; and immediately after reach Dun-tuilm caftle, or
the caftle of the round gralTy eminence, placed at the verge of a high precipice over the
fea ; the ground adjacent formed of fine verdant turf.

Find our ve(rel at anchor under the little rocky Elan-tuilm, lofty, and of a pifturefque
form.

Take leave of feveral gentlemen, who, according to the worthy cuftom of thefe
iflands, convoyed us from place to place, and never left i!S till they had delivered us
over to the next hofpitable roof, or feen us fafcly embarked. Among others who did
me this honour was Doclor John Maclean, whofe family have been hereditary phyfi.
cians for fome centuries to that of Mac-donald. They have been educated at the ex-
pence of the chiefiain ; and receive to this day an appointment in land, holding the farm
of Shulilta at the gates of the ancient refidence of the Mac-donalds, the caftle of Dun-
tailm, which the Dodor enjoys together with a penfioii from the late Sir James Mac-
donald.

• From Dr. Solandtr, f From Dr. liumey. % Suftonlim, lib vi. c. J4.

J Monlfaucon, Antiq. Suppl. iii. isS. lab.73. f. 2, || Ibid. f. i. fl Melviai Topog Scoiix.

Dun-tuilm

PENNANT a SnCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND* 327

Dun-tvulni caflle is a ruin, but was inliabifoil as late as 1715. It was the oric;inaI
feat of the Mac-donaUis in Skic : near it a'hill, called Cncxk an eirick,, or the hill of
pleas : fuch eminences are frequent ne;ir the houfes of all the great men, for on tholV,
by the alTiftance of their friends, th.'y determined all did'eKences between their people :
the place was held facred, and to the relpcft paid to the decifions delivered from the
fummit, may in Tome meaTure be attributed the flciiSk obedience of a fierce and military
race to their cliicftain.

Near this place wa<} p inted to me the fpot where an inceftuous pair (a brother and
filler) had been buried alive, by order of the chieftain.

In the rocks are abundance of finail comprelTed ammonita:, and on the fiiores faw
fragments of white quartz, the heftic (lone fo often mentioned by Martin.

Skie is the largeft of the Hebrides, being above fixty meafured miles long ; the
breadth unequal, by reafon of the numbers of lochs that penetrate far on both fides.
It is fuppofed by fome to have been the Eadern iEbudae of the ancients ; by others ta
have been the Diimna. The modern name is of Norwegian origin, derived from Ski,
a mill, and from the clouds (that almoll continually hang on the tops of its lofty hills)
was llyled Ealand (kianach, or the cloudy ifland *. No epithet could better fuit tha
place ; for, except in the fummcr feafon, there is fcarcely a week of fair weather : the
lummers themfelves are alio generally wet, and feldom warm.

The weAerly wind blows litre more reguhirly than any other, and arriving charged,
with vapour from the vafl Atlantic, never fails to daih the clouds it wafts on the lofty
fummits of the hills of Cuchullin, and their contents deluge the ifland in a manner un.
known in other places^ What is properly called the rainy feafon commences in Augull :
the rains begin with moderate winds, which grow ftronger and ftronger till the autumnal
equinox, when they rage with incredible fury.

The hulbandman then fighs over the ruins of his vernal labours : fees his crops feel
the injury of climate j fome laid proftrate ; the more ripe corn (hed by the violence of
the elements. The poor forefee famine, and confequential difeafe : the humane tackf-
men agonize over dillrefles that inability, not want of inclination, deprives them of the
power of remedying. The nearer calls of family and children naturally firlt excite
their attention : to maintain and educate are all their hopes, for that of accumulating
wealth is beyond their expe£lation j fothat the poor are left to Providence's care j they
prowl like other animals along the (hores to pick up limpets and other fliell-fi'.h, the
cafual repafts of hundreds during part of the year in thefe unhappy iflands. Hundreds
thus annually drag through the feafon a wretched life; and numbers unknown, in all
parts of the weflern iflands (nothing local is intended), fall beneath the preflure, fome
of hunger, more of the purid fever, the epidemic of the coafts, originating from un-
wholefomc food, the dire effeds of neceflity. Moral and iimocent vitlims ! who exult
in the change, firft finding that place " where the wicked ceafe from troubling, and
where the weary are at red."

The farmer hbours to remedy this diftreCs to the beft of his power, but the wetnefs
of the land late in fpring prevents him from putting into tlie ground the early feed of
future crops, bear, and fmall oats : the laft are fitted for the climate ; they bear the
fury of the winds better than other grain, and require lofs manure, a deficiency in this
ifland. Poverty prevents him from making experiments iii rural oeconomy : the ill
fuccefs of a few made by the more opulent determines iiim to follow the old trad, as
attended with more certainty, unwilling, Uke the dog in the fable, to grafp at the fha-
dow and lofe the fubflance, even as poor as it is.

- t>'l

DoAor Mac-phcrfou, iSz,

The

323 tennant's seconp Totra in scotlanp.

T\\c prOLluce of the crops very rarely are in any degree proportioned to the wants ol
the inhabitants : golden fealons have h.ippeiuxl when they have had fiiperfluity ; but
tile vears of famine are a^ ten to one. 'I'he helps of the conininn y.-ars arc potatt^s :
•t is diflicult to f.iy whether tl)e difcovery of AnKTica by tin' iSpaniards lias eontribiifd
to prefcrve more lives by the introduction of this v 'getablc, or to iiavo caiifcd ii\ore to
perilh by the infati.ible luft after the precious metals of the new world.

The ditTiculties the farmer undergoes in this bad climate are unknown in the foutii ;
thrr'' he fows his feed, and fees it flourifli beneath a benign fun, and fccurcd from every
invafion. Here a wet iky brings a reludant crop* : the ground, inch^fed only witii
(urf mounds. aoceHiblc to every animal : a continual watch employs nundicrsof hi:.
people : fon\e again are occupied in repairing the damages fullaincd bv flioir hoiif'p
from ftomiR th'' preceding yuw ; others are labouring at the turlierries, t.) provide fuel
to keep off the rigour of the feverc feafon ; or in fencing Mie natural (the only) grallcs
of the country to preferve their cattle from ftarving, which are the true and proper
rtaple of thefe iflands.

The quantity of corn raifcd in tolerable feafons in this ifland is efleemed to be about
nine thoufand bolls. The number of mouths to conlume them in tlie prtlbytcry of
Skie t, near thirteen thoufand : migrations and dcpreflion of fpirit, the lall a common
ca^ifc of depopulation, having fince the year 1750 reduced the number from fifteen
thoufand to between twelve and thirteen: one thoufaiul having croffLd the Atlantic,
others funk beneath poverty, or in defpair, ceafed to obey the lirft great command,
•' increafc and multiply."

In that year the whole rent of Skie was three thoufand five hundred pounds. By
an unnatural force fome of the rents are now doubled and trebled. People long out
of all habit of induflry, and ufod to the convivial tables of their chieftain, were un: ble
indantly to fupport fo new a burden : in time not very long preceding that, they l.'lt
the return of ibme of their rents ; they were etiabled to keep hofpitality ; to receive
their chieftain with a well-covered board, and to feed a multitude of poor. Many of
the greater tackfmcn were of the fame blood with their chieftains ; they were attached
to them by the ties of confanguinity as well «s affeclion : they felt from them the firft
aft of oppreflioti, as Cafar did the wound from his beloved Brutus.

The high advance in the price of cattle is a plea for the high advance of rents; but the
fituation of the tackfman here is particular : he is a gentleman, and boaftsthc fame blood
with his laird: (of five hundred fighting men that followed Macleod in 1745 in his
majcfly army, four hundred were of his kindred) has been cheriOied by him for a ferics
of years often with paternal afFeftion : has been ufed to fuch luxuries as the place af-
fords, and cannot inflantly fink from a good boanl to the hard fare of a common far-
mer. When the chieftains riot in all the luxuries of South Britain, he thinks himfelf
entitled to (hare a due degree of the good things of this life, and not to be for ever
confined to the diet of brochan, or the compotation ofwhifkey. During the feudal
reign their love for their chiel tains induced them to bear many things, at prefent into-
lerable. They were their pride and their glory : they drained every nerve in fupport
of them, in the lame manner as the French, through vanity, relufe nothing to aggrandize
their Grand Monarque.

• Tl.e momrnt the corn is tuf down, a certain iMiinhiT of fliravrs are pntlirrcd in a hr.ip, and tkatched
•n the lop : the tirtl dry momfiii that li.ipiiriis, the thatili i^ taUcii otF, and the (hovis iiom' dry are carried
in ; ai'd this i.i ri'|»c^'rd till the wl.olrtr.m is iVciirtJ.

■^ Which coiiijjtih ntli Rinn, Ciuiiay, M,:i.k, ami Kgg. bil'ulcs the I'cven iiuriflies in thii Rit-ut ill.ind.

2 Rcfentment

pbnkant's second tour m Scotland.

3*9

Rcfentmcnt drove many to feek a retreat beyond the Atlantic : they fold their (lock,
and in numbers made their firft elTay. They found, or thouglit they found, while
their paflions were warm, an happy change of fituation : they wrote in terms favouring
of romance, an account of their fituation : their friends caught the contagion ; and
numbers followed ; and others wore preparing to follow their example. The tackf-
nien from a motive of independency : the poor from artachment ; and from cxcefs of
mifery. Policy and humanity, as 1 am informed, have of late checked this fpirit fo
detrimental to tiie public. The wifdom of legidature may perhaps fall on fome methods
to conciliate the atVeclions of a valuable part of the community : it is unbecoming my
little knowledije? of the country to prcfume to point out the methods. It is to be
hoped that the head will, while time- permits, recolleft the ufe of the mod diftant
nicmbers.

The proper produfts of this and all the Hebrides, are men and cattle : the ufe of
firll nceit not bo infilled on, for England cannot have forgot its fad deficiency of re-
cruits towards the end of the late long and dellruftive war : and what it owed in the
courfe of it to North-Britain. In refped to cattle, this in particular bears the pre-cmi-
nence of having the largell breed of all the Highlands. The greater tenants keep their
cattle during winter in what are called winter-parks, the driefl and bed ground they
have : here they arc kept till April, except the winter proves very hard, when they
are ft ddered with ft raw : in April the farmer turns them to the moor-grafs (cotton,
grafs) which fprings firft, and at night drives them into the dry grounds again.

The poorer tenants, who have no winter-parks, are under the necefllty of keeping
the cattle under the fame roof with themfelves during night ; and often are obliged to
keep them alive with the meal defigned for their families. The cows are often forced,
through want of other fu^id, to have recourfe to the ftiores, and feed on the feaplants
at low water : by inftin£l they will, at ebb of tide, haften from the moors, notwith<
ftanding they are not within fight of the fca.

One of the greater farms in Skie is thus ftockcd :

Fifty cows, and their followers, viz. 20 young heifers, fit for bull ; 30 ditto, three
years old; 35 ditto two years old •. 40 yearlings, or finrks. Of thefe the owner can
i'cll only 20 cows at 45s. each at an average ; can make butter and cheefe for his family,
but none for fale, for their beft cow will not yield abov; thre« Englifli quarts of milk,
at a meal. Such a farm was formerly rented for 16I. a year, at prefent is raifed to 50I.
The greateft rent in the ifland is 80I., but the mediuiv from 30I. to 40I.

In Skie whin a tackfman has a greater farm than ho can manage, he often fets off
part to a Bowman or Aireach, who takes care of the ftock of cattle on a certain traft ;
and binds himfelf to give to thr; tackfman every year four ftono of cheefe, and two of
butter, from each couple of milch cows. If there is any arable ground, he is provided
with horfes and a plough ; and feed lufficient to fow it ; and receives part of the crop j
and fome additional grafs ground for two or three milch cows, for his trouble.

'1 here is certainly much ill management in the diredlion of the farms : a tackfman of
fifty pounds a year often keeps twenty fervants ; the lazieft of creatures, for not one
will do the leait thing that doer not belong to hir department. Moft of them are mar.
ried, as in Hay. 'I heir common food is Brochan, a thick meal pudding, with milk,
butter or treac'c ; or a thinner fort, called Kafoch, taken with thdr bannocs. This
number of fervants fcemed to aniwer the retainers in great families before that perni-
cious cullom was aboliflied by Henry VII. ; in feudal times they were kept here for the
fame bad end. The caufe is now no more, but the habit cannot fuddonly be fliaken off;

VOL. lu. '■■ u charity

. Mm

n!' 'I
• i ' JH

,1;;

It I

i';il

33°

pennant's BCCOND tour in SCOTLAND.

charity forbids one to wifli it, till foine employ is thought offer them ; othcrwifo, like the
poor cott.igors bt-foro-im-ntioni'il, (larvii^g imid be their portion.

Cattje is at prcfetit the only trade of the iflaiid ; about four thoufanil are ai\niially
fold, from forty (hillings to three pounds a head. The lofs luflained in Skie by the le-
verity of the iait winter, and the general failure of the crops the preceding feafon amount-
ed to five thoufand ; perhaps in fonic ineafure owing to the farms being ovcr-ftockcd.

About two hundred and fifty horfcs are purchafed Imm luuce every year.

Here are no (heep but what are kept for home confumption, or for tin- wool for the
cloathing of the inhabitants. Hogs are not introduced here yet, for want of proper food
for thofe animals.

Goats might turn to good advantage if introduced into the wooded parts of the ifland.
Thife animals might be procured from the neighbourhood of I.ochnefs ; for being
naturalized to the climate, would fuccced betti-r than any importeJ from the foulhern
parts of Europe, or from Barbary. As an inducement, I mult inform the natives of
the Ilebriiles that in the Alpine part of Wales a well haired goatlkin fells for fven and
fix. pence or half-aguinea.

About three hundred tons of kelp are mac'.e hero annually, but It is thoui^ht not to
anfwcr, as it robs the lanil of I'o much manure.

There are not above two or three Hated houfes in the ifland ; the general thatch is
fern, root and (lalk, which will lall above twenty years.

The roots of theorobus tuberofus, the cor nuilte or carmel of the Highlanders, arc
in high ellet.m in this and the other illands : th -y fometimes chew them, at others make
a fcrmcnteil liiiuor with them. They imagine that they promote expectoration, and t.'iat
they are very rlFicacious in curing any dift)rders of the bread -r lungs: they alio ufe it
as a remedy againit hunger, chewing it as fonic of our poorell people do tobacco *, to
put off th.it uneafy fenfation.

l.igurticum Scoticum, Scotch parfley, or the fliunis of this ifland, is alfo much valued;
in medicin.>, the root is reckoned a good carminative, and an infufioii of the leaves is
thought a good purge for calves. It is behdes ufed as a food, either as a lall.ul, raw, or
boiled as greens.

Very few fuperllitionscxi I here at profent : pretend -rs to fjcond-fight are quite out
of repute, e>-.i;jj)t among llie mult ignorant, and at prelent very (hy of making buall-i of
tJicir f.iculties.

Poor Browny, or Robin Good-fellow, is alio put to flight. This fi rviceable fprife
was wont to clean t!ie houfes, helpeil ti churn, thrailied the corn, an I would beIabo\ir
all who pretended t») make a jclt of him. Ho w.is reprel'ented as (lout and blooiuiii"-,
had fine long flowing hair, and went about with a wand in his hand. He was the very
counter-part of Milton's Lubbar-ficnd, who

Tells h w t'le drii(l.;in'^ jTohWn fweat
'V> till . hir. crc;.'ni.!jo'.vl duly fct j
Wliiii III one iii.:lit, er>" gli.njjl. i)f iiiorti,
IIIj (ha'lovvy (1-ilc liatli tliraili'd tliecDril
'Iliui ten d.iy-lj!>'iir!i could not tncl ;
Then l.iys )ii n down tlic lul.li.ir ticnd,
And llrtt-h'd alinij; ilie cliiiiii.ty'i Iciigtii,
l}ai!;« at thv.- fire liib lairy llre:i^lli.

The Gruan;nch Is a deity in form reprefenting ih.' lafl ; and who was worfliipp-d In
eld timei hy libations oi milk ; and mdkmaidb (lill retain thccullom by pouring luiae

Vide Mr. Spcnce'j life of Mr. Robert Hill, tay!jr, p. ic3.

Pr.NNANT .1 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

33'

on crr.tain floncs that boar his name. Griiafrach fignifics the fair-haired, and is fappofci
by Mr. Macciuciiv * to ii.ivf been an emblem of Apollo, or the Sun; and to corre-
f[)oiui witli thf epithet -, fuToxiiUof. A (lone was du^ up near MulVtlbiir^h, dedicated
Apolliiii Griinno Grianach the Sunny, an ephithet probably borrowed from tlio Cale-
donian:). The fame deity nn<.;ht alio receive the title uf Galaxius from the libation of
luilk Hill retained in thole parts.

A wild I'pecies of ma^ic was praclifedin the did'-ift of Trottcrnefs, that was attended
vith a horrible folemnity. A f.imily who pretended to oracular knowledge praCtiled
tlule erremonies. In this country is avail catarad, whole waters fallin(.!; from a high
rock, jet I'o far as to form a dry hollow beneath, between them and the precipice. One
of thefc iinjiodors was fowed up in the hide of an ox, and to add terror to the ccrc-
ninny, was placed in this concavity, the trenibliiij^ inquirer was brought to the place,
wliire ilic (h;'.de and the roaring of the water;-, enrrealld the drrad of the ocealion.
The qutllion is put, and the perl'on in the hide delivers his anfwer, and io ends this
fpjcies of ili\ illation (lyled Taghairm.

liut alltlielc itih- talis are totally explodid, nnd good-fenfe and poliflied manners pre-
vail, inlKad of that barbarity whieii in 1598 induced James VI. to lend here a new colony
to civili/ ■ till' natives ; who were fo littk- dil'pofed to receive their inltruc\ors, that his
Majefly was in the end obliged t> dclill from his d''lign f. At prefent the illand forms
part of the (hire of Invernels. 1 he flirriil' of that county appoints a fubllitute who rcfides
iiere and takes cognizance of fmall dil'putes about property, and petty crimes ; but, on
account of thu diltance, avoids harrafling the inhabitants, by requiring their attendance
on the Lords of Sellions and Judiciary Courts at Invernefs, the jurymen being feledted
from among the gentry and inhabitants of the mainland.

July 24. After a molt tempeduous night, loofe from our harbour at two o'clock at
noon. Go through a narrow channel at the north end, a rock lying in the middle.
Having to the welt a view of Filher's rock ; and to the north a (trange chain of rocky
ifles, very fingular in their appearance ; and varying in their forms in the procefs of our
courfe. The highed is called Bordh-mor-mhic-leod, or Macleod's great table J.
Another Is called l'"lada. < ^n the fird Mr. Thompfon took in our abfence the little
Petrel, which with nuinbi rs of others were lurking l)eneath the loofe ftones, and be-
trayed themfelves by loud twittering. Thefe are the lead of palmipeds; the dread of
mariners, who draw a certain prefage of a llorin from their appearance ; for they al-
ways colleft in numbers at the approach of a temped beneath the ftcrn ; running along
the waves in the wake of the (hip, with a fwiftnefs incredible. This bird is the Caniillti
of the ocean : like her,

She fwept the feas, and as (he I'kimm'd along,
Her flying tccl uubailiM on billuws hung.

The fcamcn call them Mother Gary's chickens: fome devotees ftyled them Petrels,
from the af lupt of the apodle St. I'eter to tread the water. They are feen in all parts
of the ocean ; and were not overlooked by the ancients, who named them Cypfelli,
and take notice of this remarkable particular.

:tV i

^•'\m

pcui

• Sic Mr. Macquccn'j curinns account in the Appendix to the ihiid volume,
\ Jdiilloiii Rcnim Britan. Hilh Lib. viii. p. 24(;.

I Two views of ihcfe wiKl rocks (2) as ihey appeared from Dun-Tuilm ; the other (3) a3 they ap-
mcd from the cnft, arc engrave J at the bottom of a view in Loch-jurn given by Mr. Pennant.

u u a

Mr.

33* PENNAKT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Mr. Thompfon alio fliot one of thofe enormous Teals, or the gretitki\/y n. quad.
No. 266 ; but to my great regret it funk as foon as killed.

Have a full view of the ifle of Lewis, the Lodhus of the Norwegians : and ofFit a
groupe of little iflos calk-d Slant, or Schant, and fomewhat to the north of thofe is the
fine harbour, and town of Stornaway. It was my intention to have (leered for that
pori, but was diHiuided IVom it by tlio accounts I htd from the gentlemen of Skie,that
u putiid i'evei" laged there w itii great violence.

Dircrt our courle for Loch-Broom, in the county of Rofs. An eafy breeze carries
us oft' the cape Ruth an ri, in the maps Row-rie. About eight o'clock in the morning
of July 25, — find oiirfelvcs near a connderable number of fmall ifles, with a mod
dreary appearaTice, mifcallcd the S*. ..uner iflands. Within is a great bay fix miles
broad and eight deep, bounded by vail and barren mountains, patched with fnow.
'1 he wind chops about and blows very frelh, fo th.it after many teazing tacks, about
nine o'clock in the evening drop anchor under ille Martin, in the bottom of the bay,
which is htre called Loch-Kinnard. To the fouth is a hill, which we landed on, and
afcended, and law on the other fide great loch Broom, or Braon, narrow, of a vail
depth, avid running many miles up the country. At its head receives a river fre-
quented by falmon in April.

This parilh is one of the larceft on the mainland of Scotland, being thirty-fix miles
long and twenty broad. It has in it feven places of worfliip, three catechills*, and
about two thoufand examinable perfons : but is deftitute of a parochial fchool. None
of the people except the gentry underfiand Englilh. The country is uihabited by the
Mackenzies, even quite from KintJl, whole chieftain is the Earl of Seaforth.

It is a land of mountains, a mixture of rock and heath, with a few flats between
them producing b^ar and black oats, but never fulficiont to fupply the wants of the in-
habitants.

Cattle are the great fupport of the country, and are fold to graziers who come for
them even as far as from Craven in Yorkfhire, at the rate of thirty (hillings to throe
pounds a head. A great deal of butter and cheefe is fold to the bulfes. I.and is fet
here by the Davoch or half Davoch ; the la(l confiils of ninety-fix Scotch acres of arable
land,fuch as it is, with a competent quantity of mountain and grazing ground. This
maintains fixty cows and their followers ; and is rented for (ilty-two pounds a year.
To manage this the farmer keeps eight men and eight women lervants ; and an ovcrfeer,
who are all paid partly in money and partly in kind. The common fervants have thirty
fliillings per annum, houfe, garden, (ix bolls of meal and (hoes. The dairy maids
thirteen (hillings and four-pence and (hoes : the common drudges fix and eight-pencL*
and (hoes.

The tender cattle are houfed during winter. The common manure of the country is
dung, or fca-wraik.

July 27. Still on board. The weather very bad.

July 28. Land at the bottom of the bay, in Ruls-diin.. Procure horPs. Obf.-rve
fome houff.s built for the veteran it)U1icr;; and failors ; but as ufual all delerti'd. IVo-
cecd up Snath KnnarJ, which with Coyi;:ic!i that bounds the north fide ol rhc bay isa
foi feited ellate, and unalienably annexed to tlie crown. The cniumiiru)ii is give all
pulHble encouragement to the tenanis j and have power to grant longer leafo;; than the

• A catecliift is one who jj'irj from lioufc to houfe to inftrir^ the people In the ptIiu;!plL'j of riii^rinii,
aixl ill the c.Te;li f'lis, fljipi uvcl by the jjericial airvmbly ; and appointed by its coniiniuce, ;iiiil arc I'm).
piirLcd cut of liiij Mrfjdly'a buuiity.

6 lairds

pennant's second TCUR in SCOTLAND.

333

laird? are inclined to do, which keeps the people under the government contented,
anil banifhes from thtir minds all thoughts ot" migration.

Kindnefs and hofpitality poffofs the people of thofc parts. We fcarce pafled a farm
hut the good woman, long bLfore our approach, fallied out and flood on the road-
fidc, holding out to us a bowl of milk or whey.

yVfcend a very high mountain, and pafs through a birch-wood, impending over a pretty
little loch ; various other woods of the fame kind were fcattered over the bottoms, but
the trees wore fmall. Roots of pines filled all the moors, but I faw none of tho'c trees
flanding. Pafs under fome great precipices of limeflone, mixed with marble ; from
hence a molt tremendous view of mountains of flupendous height, and generally of
conoid forms. I never faw a country that feemed to have been fo torn and convulftd j
the fhock, whenever it happened, fhook off all that vegetates; among thefe afpiring
heaps of barrenncfs, the lugar-loaf hill of Suil-bhein made a confpicuous figure; at
their feet, the blacknefs of the moors by no means affifled to cheer our ideas. Enter
AHynt, in Sutherland : ride by Loch-Camloch ; enjoy fome diverfity of the fcene, for
it was prettily ilccorated with little wooded iflands. Reach Led-beg, where we ob-
tained '^nartL'rs, and rough hofpitality.

I'his country is environed with mountains, and all the flrata near their bafe, and in
the bottoms, are compofcd of white marble, fine as the Parian : houfes are built with
it, and walls raifed ; burnt, it is the manure of the country, but oftener nature dif-
folves, and prefents it ready prepared to the lazy farmer.

This tract feems to be the refidencc of floth, the people almofl torpid with idlenefs,
and moft wretched ; their hovels moll miferable, made of poles wattled and covered
with thin fods. There is not corn raifed fufficient to fupply half the wants of the in-
habitants ; climate confpires with indolence to make matters worfe, yet there is much
improveable land here in a ffate of nature, but till famine pinches they will not beftir
thtmfelves; they are content with little at prefent, and are thoughtlefs of futurity ;
perhaps on the motive of Turkilh vaiVals, who are oppreffed in proportion to their im-
provements. Dil'pirited and driven to defpair by bad management, crowds were now
pafTmg, emaciated with hunger, to the eaftern coaft, on the report of a fhip being there
loaden with menl. Numbers of the miferables of this country were now migrating ;
they wandered in a llate of tlefperation, too poor to pay, they madly fell themfelves
for their paflago, preferring a temporary bondage in a itrange land, to ftarving for life
in their native foil.

Every country has had its prophets : Greece Its CafTandra, Rome its Sibyls, England
its Nixon, Wales its Robin Ddu, and the Highlands their Kenneah Oaur. Kenneah
long fince predifted the migrations in thefe terms : " Whenever a Macleane with long
hands, a Frazer with a black fpot on his face, a Macgregor with the fame on his knee,
and a club footed MacKod of Rafa, fliould have exilted ; whenever there fhnuld have
been fuccjflively three Macdonalds of the name of John, and three Mackinnons of the
fame Chnllian luune ; oj>pjel1or; would appear in the country, and the people change
their own land for a llrau;;e one " 'I'he preditlions, fay the good wives, have been
fulfilled, and not a lin^le breach in the oracular effufions of Kenneah Oaur.

In a country vvlierc i inoranc and poverty prevail, it is lefs wonderful tliat a tragical
aflair fhuuld happen, rin;ilar to that at Tring, near our polifhed capital. About three
years ago lived in this iicigh!)ourhooil, a woman of niore than common ftrength of
underilandiiig : (he was olt^n cunlultt d on the ordinary occurrences of life, and ob-
tained a ibrt of riTpcd wliich excited the envy of another female in the lame J.iilriv^T:.
'1 iie lafl gave out that her nciglibour vviis a witch } that fhc hciiclf liad a good geniuj!,

and

334

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

and couKl counteract the evils dreaded from the other : at length, (lie fo worked oti
the \vi\ik iniiuis of the iiiiiple vul;;ar, that they determined on deftrcying her rival,
and cru'Cled their piirpofe by inlligating a parcel of chiMrcn to llrangk; her. The
murder was inquired into, but the inciters had fo artfully concealed thcmfelves, that
ihcy eictped their rew;ird, and no punilhnicnt was inllicUHl, except. what was fuitcd to
the t('r.di.-r vcars of the dtUided children.

Aflynt parilh contains between three and four tlioufand fouls ; and fends out five
hundred head of catile annually ; and about two or three lulls of lahnon are taken
every yc.ir in the water of lunard, on the eoafl.

1 faw here a male and female red-throated diver ; wliich convinces me of my miftake
ill i'uppolin;.; anoilur to have been of this fpecies *.

July 28. it was our defi^^n, on having the ihip, to have penetrated by land as far as
the extremity of the illand ; but we were informed that the way was impaifable for
horfcs, and that even an iil.uul foot meiVcMp,, r niiill avc.id part of the hills by crolling
an arm cjf the fea. Return the lame J'oaii thrcnuha variety of bog and hazardous
rock, th;\t nothing bui our ihoeleis little llecds could have carried us over. At length
■we arrive fafely on board the Ihip,

A woivl'roiis ti l<i;n
Of licavc'ii's ki;id care, with itiks iiiihrokcn.

I'ound in our harbour (imc bufl'es, jud anchored, in expeOation of (inding the
flioals of herrings ulually here at this fealbn, but at pri !>. nt were difappoinred : t. few
were taken, fufficient to convince us of (heir fuperiority in goodnefs overtlio.'V -^'ne
fouth ; they were not larger, but as they had not waded thitnfelves by being . •,
their backs, and the part next to the tail, wtre double the thickncfs of the oth • 'A
the meat rich beyond cxprdlion.

Mr. Anderfon f gives to the Scotch a knowledge of great antiquity in the licrring
fifliery : he fays that the Nethcrlanders reforted to thefe coafts as early as A. 1). 8 j6,
to purchale falted fifli of the natives ; but impofing on the flrangers, they learned the
art, and took up the trade, in after-tiines of fuch innnenle emolument to the Uutrh.

Sir Walter Raleigh's obfervations on tliat head, extracted from the fame author,
aae extremely worthy the attention of the curious", and excite reflexions on the vaft
flrength refuhing from the wifdom of well applied induffry.

In 1603, remarks that great man, the Dutch fold to difl'erent nations, as mai.y her-
rings as amounted to 1,759,0001. (ferling.

In the year 1615, they at once fent out 2000 buffes, and employed in them 37,000
fifhermen.

In the year 161 8 they fent out 3000 fliips, witli 50,000 men, to take the herrlngF,
and 9000 more Ihips to tranlptnt and fell the hlh, which by fea and land enipli>y(d
150,000 men, befides thofe lirll mentioned. All this wealth was gotten on our calls j
while our attmtiim was taken up in a dillant whale fifhery.

The Scottilh monarchs for a long time feemed to direct ail- their attcinion to the
prelcrvati'.n of tlie lalmon filliery ; probably becaufe ilvir fubjeds were hich novices
in fta affairs. At length James 111. endeavoured to (limulaie his great men to thefe
patriotic undertakings; tor by an ad of his third parliament, he compelled " certain
lords l;,irtual and teiuforal, an I burrows, to make (hips, buflies. ami boats with nets
and other pertinents (or lifliing. That the fame Ihould be made :i\ each burgh ; in

Br. Z^ol. i. No. 2 J'.

f DIA Commcicc, !. ji.

number

^£N^'ANT's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

335

number according to the fubftancc of each burgh, and the leaft of them tob>3 of twenty
tons : and that all idle men be compelled by the llieritls in the country to go on board
the fame."

But his fucccflurs, by a very falfc policy, rendered this wife inrtitution of little efFe£l ;
for they in a manner prevented rhcir fubjeds from becoming a maritime people, by
directing that no white fifli fhould be fent out of the realm, but that (trangers may
con>e and buy them * ; that fruc ports be firlt ferveil 5 the cargoes fold to freemen,
•who are to come and tranfport the fame f. The Dutch at this very time having an
open trade.

It is well known that there have been many attempts made to fecure this treafure
to ourlblvcs, but without fuccefs ; in the late reign a very Urong ellort was made, and
bounties allowed for the encouragement of Britilh adventurers ; the firll was of thirty
fliillings per ton for every buls of fevcnty tons and upwards. This bounty was after-
wards raifcd to fifty fliillings per ton, to be paid to fuch adventurers who were entitled
to it by claiming it at the places of rendezvous. The buflls are from twenty to
ninety tons burden, but the belt iize is eighty. A vellel of eighty tons ought to take
ten lads, or a hundred and twenty barrels of herrings, to clear expences, the price of
the fiih to be admitted to bo a guinea a barrel : a Ihip of this lize ought to have
eighteen men and three boats ; one of twenty tons iluuld have fix menj and every
five tons above require an additional hand.

To every ton are two hutiiired and eighty yards of nets ; fo a vefTel of eighty tons
carries twenty thoufand fquare yards ; each net is twelve yards long, and ten deepy
and every boat takes out from twenty to thirty nets, and puts them together fo as to
form a long train : they are funk at each end of the train by a (lone, which weighs it
doun to the full extent ; the top is fupported by buoys, made of flieep's fkin, with a
hollow (lick at the mouth, falhened tight ; through this the lliin is blown up, and then,
ftopt with a peg, to prevent the efcape of the air. Soineticnes thefe buoys are placed
at the top of the nets ; at other times the nets are futlered to fink deeper, by the-
lengthening t!ie cords fallened to tliein, every cord being for that purpofe ten or
twelve fiuhoms U-n.^. But th.' belt filheries are generally in more fliallow water.

The nets a e made at CJreeiicck, in Kiiapdale, Bute, and Arran ; but the bed ai*e
procured tVum Ireiaiul, arJ, I tiiink, Irom fome part of C'.aernarvonfliire.

'I'he iilliiiig is always performed in t!ie ni;;ht, unlels by accitlent. The bulies re-
main at aneiior, and kud nut t!iei buns a little before fun-let, w'lich continue our, ia
winter and lununer, till day li;,;iit ; ouen taking up auil emptying their nets, v/hich
they do ten or twelve times in a nigiit in cafe of good luccels. l)uring winter it is a
moil dangerous and fatiguing employ, by reafon of the greatnefs and frequency of the
gales in tiiefe feas, and in fuch gales are the moll fucce'iful ca;:;ture.s ; but, by the
providence of Heaven, tiie filhers are feldom lolt, and, v.Iiat is wonderful, few are
villted with iilnefs. They go out well prepared, with a warm great coat, boots, and
Ikin aprons, and a good proviilou of beef and fpirits. The fame good fortune attends
tile buile;?, who, in the tt'itipeiluous I'eafon and hi the darkell nights, are condnually
Ihifting in thefe narrov/ feas ironi haiht)ur to harbour.

Sometimes eitrhty barrels of herriiu'-s are taken in a ni'iht bv the boats of a fino;le
velTcl. It once ha|Tj)ened in Locli-Slappan, in Skie, that a buL; of eighty tons might
have taken two hundred barrels, in one iii;dir, with ten thouilrid I'quaro yards ofn';t;.
but the mailer was ujliged to deliU, for want of a fuflicient number of hai^ds to pre-
ferve the capture.

• ♦ James V. Parliara. VII. f Jjiiicb IV. anJ Jnmcs VI.

TJlC

My '^i.i'lS

•V'.! nil

ic:-><i E^^a

33«

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

The herrings are prefervcd by falling, after the entrails are taken out ; an operation
performed by the country people, who get three-pence per barrel for their trouble,
and fometimes, even in the winter, can get fifteen pence a day. This employs both
women and cnildren, but the faking is only entrufted to the crew of the bufu:;. The
fi(h are laid on their backs in the barrels, and layers of fait between them. The ent
trails are not loft, for they are boiled into an oil : eight thoufand fifh will yield tea
gallons, valued at one (hilling the gallon.

A vciTel of eighty tons takes out a hundred and forty-four barrels of fait : a draw-
back of two {hillings and eight-pence is allowed for each barrel ufed for the foreign or
Irifli exportation of the fiOi ; but there is a duty of one fhilling per barrel for the home
confumption, and the fame for thofe fent to Ireland.

The barrels are made ot oak-ftaves chiefly from Virginia ; the hoops from feveral
parts of our own ifland, and are made either of oak, birch, hazi'l, or willow ; the laft
from Holland, liable to a duty.

The barrels colt about three (hillings each ; they hold from five to eight hundred
fi(h, according to the fize of the fifh, are maile to contain thirty two gallons. The
barrels are infpccled by proper officers ; a cooper examines if they are (\atuteable and
good, if faul'y, he deftroys them, and obliges the maker to (land to the lofs.

The herrings in general are exported to the Weft Indies, to feed the negroes, or to
Ireland, for the Irifh are not allowed to fifli in thefe leas By having a drawback of
five-pence a barrel, and by re-packing the fifh in new barrels of twenty-eij^ht gallons,
they arc enabled to export them to our colonies at a cheaper rate than the Scots can do.

'i'he trade declines a-pace ; the bounty, which was well paid at (lift, kept up the
fpirit of the fifhcry, but for the laft fix years the detention of the arrears has been very
injurious to feveral adventurers, who have fcld out at thirty per cent lofs, befides that
of their intercft.

The migrations of the herrings has been very fully treated of In the third volume of
the Britifh Zoology : it is iuperlliious to load this work with a repetition, I (hall there-
fore only mention the obfervations that occur to me iu this voyage, as pertinent to
the prefent place.

Loch-Broom has been celebrated for three or four centuries as the rcfort of herrings.
They gcncniily appear here in July ; thofe that turn into this bay arc part cf the brigade
tha' detaches itielt from the wellern column of that great army that annually deleris
the valt depths of the arctic circle, and come, heaven direftetl, to the feats of popula-
tion, ort'ered as a cheap food to millions, whom waileful luxury, or iron-hearted avarice
hath deprived, by enhancing the price of the wonted fupports of the poor.

'I ho migration of thefe fifli from their northern retreat is regular : their vifits to
the weiern ifles and coails, certain ; but their attachment to one particular loch, c.<-
trenirlv precarious. All have their turns : that which fwarmed with filh one year,
is totally deferred the following, yet the next lech to it is crowileJ witfi th'- (lioils.
Thefe changes of place give o*ten full employ to tlie bufTjs, \\ho are continuully
iliitting their harbour in quell i -lews refpecling thefe important wanderers.

'1 hey conmioiily appear here iii July, tlv -atter end of Augiift they go into d.rp
water, and continue th.re (cr fome time, without any apparent caul'e ; in N ovemljor
they return to the fhallows, when a new filhery conunenc-s, wh'cli contimie; lis
Januarv, at that time the herrings become full ot roe, and are ul' IjIs as articles of
comii erce. Sonie doubt whether titele herrincs that appj.ir in Novcmb t me not
part of a new migration; for they ar«' as fat, and inaivc lite lame appearauce as thole
that compofed the fult.

Tlic

VENNANT'S SECOND TOUR IV SCCTLAND. 337

The fi^ns of the arrival of the herrings arc flocks of gulls, who catch up the fifli
while they Ikim on the furlace ; and of gannets, wiio plutigc auJ bring them up from
confidcrablc depths. Both thefe birds are clofely attended to by the fifliers.

Cod-fifli, haddocks, and dog-fifli follow the herrings in vad multitudes : thefe vora.
cious fifli keep on the outfidesof the columns, and may be a concurrent reafon of driv-
ing the (hoals into bays and creeks. In fumnier they come into the bays generally with
the warmcft weather, and with eafy gales. During winter the hard gales from north-
well are fuppofed to afiill in forcing them into flielter. Eafl v inds are very unfavour-
able to the fiflicry.

In a fine day, when 'he fifli appear near the fjrface, they exhibit an amazing brilliancy
of colours: all the various corui'cations that dart from the diamond, fapphire, and eme-
rald, enrich their trail ; but during night, if ihey break, i. e. play on the furface, the
lea appears on fire, luminous as the brightefl phofphorus.

During a gale, that part of the oc^an whic'i is occupied by the great flioals, appear as
if covered with the oil that is nnitteu from tlicm.

They feem to be greatly afi'ecled by lightning : during that pha-nomenon they fink
towards the bottom, and move regularly in parallel flioals one above the other.

The enenties that alfail thefe iilh in tlu v. iatjr feafon are varied, not diminiflud : of
the birds, the gannets difappear ; the gulls flill co'.uinue their perfecutions ; Vvhales,
pollacks *, and porpcfl'es are added to tlieir number of foes : thefe f-illow in droves ; the
wiialcs deliberately, opening their v.dt mouths, taking them by huiu'.rjds. Thefe mo:!-
Hers keep on ihe outfide, for the body of the phalanx of herrings is lb thick as to be
impenetrable by thefe unwieldy animals.

'J'lie herring-lifliers never obferve the remains of any kind of food in the flon\achs of
that filli, as long as they are in good condition : as foon as they become foul or poor,
they will greedily rile to the fly, and be taken like the whiting-pollack.

'x'hey do not depoiit their fpawn in fand,or mud, or weeds, hke other fiih, but leave
it in the water, fufpeiuled in a gelatinous matter, of fuch a gravity as prevents it from
fio.uing to the furface, or linking to the bottom. The fiihermen difcover this by finding
the flimy matter adhering to the hay ropes fometlme^ in ufe to hold the Hone that finks
the nets, the middle part being llimed over, the top arid bottom clear.

Before 1 leave this bay it -.lUin: be obfervcJ, that there are here, as in mofl; of the
lochs, a few, a very few of the natives who pjflels a boat and nets, and fifli in order to
fell the capture frefli to the builes : the utmolt thefe poor people can attain to are the
boat and nets; tliey are too indigent to become mailers of barrels, or of fait, to the
great lofs of the pvd)lic as well as theirielves. Were magazines of fait tllai)li(lied in
thefe diltant parts ; was encouragement given to th -fe dillant Briions, fo tiiat they mi^ht
be enabled by degrees to iuniiili themfelves with the. requilites for -filhing, they would
loon lorm themfelves into feainen, by the couiie of life tht-y mull apply themfelves to ; tlie
bullbs would be crtain ol linding a ruuly marl^ei of filh reai'.y cured ; the jrativus t.iu ;;ht
indudrv, which would be quickened by the jirofus made by the commodity, which tlK'y
mitjlit all'ord cheaper, as t Jvin at their very doors, without the wear and tear of di.iar.t
voyages, as in the prjlVnt cal'e. Half of the Irarids employed now in fifhing and curing
generally come out as raw JLainen as tlie inhabitants of thel'e parts: they do not return
with much greater experi.iKe in the working of a iliip, being emploved enlirelv in the
boats, or in iulting of t!ie herrings, and feem on board as aukuard as nr.'.riues in com-
parifon of able I'eamcn. A bounty on thefe home captures would lUmulate the people

tin

**'
%

vol.. ni.

* A ffi, ill wliiili.', \'.liofc ip'.'C'fs 1 cai'.'iot ilcU'i'iVii-
X X

"jS PrNNANl's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

to induflry ; would drive from their minds the thou.^hts of migrations ; and would
nevor leffcn the number of feamcn, as it woulJ he an incitement for more adventurers
to fit out velVels, bccaufe they would have a double chance of freiglit, from their own
captures, and from thofe of the refidents, who might form a ilock from fhoals of fifli,
which often efcape while the former are wind-bouml, or wandering from loch to loch.

July 29. Weigh anchor, and fail with a favourable breeze towards the mouth of
the bay, with a defign jf returning fouth ; but towards evening the wind changes, cold
weather and hard adverle gales fucceed, which oblige us to tack and anchor in the
mouth of Little Loch-Broom, an arm of the fea, about [even miles long, and not half a
mile broad, bounded by high mountains, covered in many ptrts with birch woods. The
hill Talloch-F.flic may vie with the higiiell I have fecn.

For two hours amufe ourfelves with taking with hand lines abundance of cod, foinc
dog-fifh, and a curious ray.

The night was muflt tempeftuous: our fituation was difagreeable, us I\Tr. Thomp-
fon thought our vcflll would drive, and that he ihould be obliged to cut iiis cables and
put to fea; which, under the circumftances of a black night, a furious (lorm, and rocky
narrows, did not contribute lo the repofe of frefh-wator feamen.

July 30. The wind grows moderate : in weighing anchor difcover on the cable
fcvcral very uncommon aiteriic. No fooner was our anchor on board, but a furious
fquall arifcs, and blows in blads like a hurricane, drivhig us before it at a vail rate, till
we arrived wiiliin a mile ot the bottom of the loch. Drop anchor, but v.'ithout eil'ccl ;
are obliged to weigh again, while the furious gale engages an attentioii to the fails, and
ilings us into a double perplexity in this narrow llrait, where for an iiour ou. tacks
were alinoft perpetual, and the veflll frequently in no Imall danger. The blatls from
the mountains were tremendous, not only raifing a vaft fea, but catching up the waves
in eddies, and railing them up in the air to a furprifing heiglit. At length we were
relieved from our diilrcfs by a fuccefsful anchorage, under a high and finily wooJed
hill, in ei_,ht fathom water, but within a fmall dillance of eighty.

I'rocure hc^rfes, by favour of Kenneth Mac-kenzic, Eiq. of Dundonnel. Rid^' about
a tnile on the fide of the hill, above the loch ; arrivi' in a fniall but fertile plain, winding
among tl;e vail mountains, and adorned with a pretty river and woods of alder. Here
we were njoiced v ith the light ot eiiclofur :s long il rangers to us : the hay was good,
the bear and oats txcelLnt ; but tlv,.' manner of manuring, called in thefe parts tatning,
was vciv fmgular : many of the Ik Ids were covered witli the boughs of alders, hnvW
cut : tliefe are lelt during the wh( le winter "to rot ; in ]\1 irch the ground is clears. >f
the undecavid parts, and tlijn plou'jied. Fern is alio ufed for the fame end. Reach

Du;;dunncl. Determined to go !)y land to \ ifit Loch-nv.uve, a great lake to the Ibuth ;
ariddireiil Mr. Thompfon to fail and wait tor us at Clair-loch.

We found ourlclves ilated in a fpot equalized bv few in piclurefque and magnificent
fcenery. 'Ihe banks of the river that rulhes by the iio'.ile are fringed wiih trees, and
the courfe often interrupted by cafcades. At a fmall diltance the ground begins to rife:
r.s we mount, the eyes are ci.icrtained with new objects ; the river rolling beneath the
dark Ihade of alders, an extci.t ot plain compofed of fields bounded by groves ; and as
the Walk advances, appears a deep and tremcndnis hollow, fliagged with ti< s, and
winding far amiilll the hills. Wc are alarmed with the roar of invilible catar.ias, long
before their place is difccnvred ; and tind them precipit.iting themfelves down narrow
ch.dins of Itupendous depth, fo narrow at top, that highlanilers in the eageruefs of the
chace will fearlelVly fpring over ihele baraiiira. They meander for miles imidll the
mountains, and are the .■•t'-'-wern work of water, brar«ch olf into every glen, hid with trees

7 of

Pr.NMANT'8 SECOND TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

syj

of various fpecies. Torrents roll nvcr their bottoins often dartinj:j ilown preciiiiccs of a
thouiand forms, lofing theinfelves beneath the undcniiincd rocks, and appcariin;- again
vhite with the violence oftiic f;dl. By laying afide the boughs, and creeping to the
verge, got fight of thefc oiherwife latent cataraiils ; but the piMfped fuOicieniiy tired
my head. Befidcs thefe darkfome waters, nuiltitiules of others precipitate thenifclves
ill fiiH view down the lieep fides of the adjacent hills, and create feu* ieveral hundreds
of feet a feries of ni(.(t; magnificLnt falls.

Above lifcs a magnificent hill, which as far as the fight can reuclt is doathed with
birch and pines, the flielter of Hags, roes, and black game.

T-. the well is a view where tlie awful, or rather the horrible, predominates. A
chain of rocky mountains, fomc conoid, but united by links of a height equal to nioit
in North Britain, with fides dark, deep, and precipitous, with funimits broken, fliarp,
ferrated, and fpiring into all terriiic forms ; with fnowy glacicres lodged in the dec'p
(li.ide.l ap 'rtures. '.i'hefe crags are called Sqnr-fein, or hills of wine : they ratlur merit
the title of Squr-fhain, or rocks of wind ; for here iRolus may be laid to make his refi-
dence, and ever employed in fabricating bblis, fqualls, and hurricanes, which he leal*
ters with no fparing hand over the fubjacent vales and lochs.

July 3 1 . Mod agreeably detained with the good family of Pundonnel by a violent
fall of rain, which rendered the waters impaifable. Oblerve after dinner that cloud-
berries •, that grow on the adjacent mountains, wereferved as a dcfert.

Augulli. y\fter taking a dcoeh-an-doruis, or a door-cup, proceed foulh, afccnd a
fleep Itill far above a bank woodml with various trees, among others the wych-elm
grev,' native. To the weft were the vad mountains, naked, rugged and dreary, their
bafes floping, furrowed with long clefts, emptying their precipitated waters into the
river beneath, Defcend into a vale with birch-trees thinly fcattered over it ; and the
extremity crolTed by a high rock wooded and divided in the middle by a vafl: and foam-
ing cafaraft, the waters of Loch-nan-niun, or the lake of birds. On the weft fide is an
amazing mountain ffccply floping, compofed of a whitifli marble, fo extenfive, fmooth,
gloffy and even, as to appear like an enormous flieet of ice ; and is, I doubt not, as
flippery. Our guide called the hill Lecach. The oppofite fide of the vale was preci-
pitous ; varied with trees and cafcades, that fell among the branches. The whole of
fl fcene was truly alpine.

Afccnd again. Arrive amidfl flrata of red and white marble, the way horrible,
broken, lleep, and flippery ; but our cautious fteeds tried every {fep before they would
venture to proceed. Black morafly heaths fucceed, named Glian-dochartai. Dine on
the fide of a rill at the bottom, on plentiful fare provided by our kind hod, whofe fon,
Mr. Mackenzie, and another gentletnan of the name, kindly undertook the charge of
us to the next llvige. Ride through a narrow llrath called Kin-loch-ewe, where we firlt
tiw the figns of houfes and a little cultivation (ince morning. This terminates in a
meadowy plain, doled at the end with l.och-maric : the p.ight proved wet and tem-
pelUious; we therefore determined to defer the voyage till u;e iiext day, and to take
flieher in a whilkey houfe, the inn of the placi;-. IMr. Mackenzie complimented Mr.
Lightloot and me with the bedlli-ad, well covered with a warm litter of lieath: we lay in
our cloaths, wrapped ourlelvc s in plaids, and cnt<iyed a good repofe. We llept like the
Lufitanians of rild \,fuper iborcs I.KrhaiOs. Our friends did not lofe their fleep; but
rreat was our furprife to fee them form their bed of wet hay, or rather grafs coUeded
from the fields ; they iKing a plaid over it, undivffed, and lay moll comfortaldy, without

Ru'oas Chamxmovi'.s.

t Strabo, lib, iii, 233.

X X '}.

injury,

340 Pr.NNANT S SLCOND TOUR tM SCOl'I.AN D.

iniury, in wliat in a little; timo mull havi- bccoim." an t rraiu hot-bed ; fo bLft with luirdy
ct'iillitiitions aro cvt u tiii.- j';i'ntl(.'im n of this country !

Aui;u(l 2. At ll'Vt'ii in the niorniii<; t;\kv a lix-o;ired boat, at tlvj rafl cnil of I.och-
marcc : keep on tho north ihorc bonc;4th Itocp rock:^, ir.odly liilf^il witli pinos waving
over our ho;u!^;. Obfcrvo on tlu- ninrc ;• voung man of good apprarancc, hailin;^ the
boat in tho Erfo Ianguap;c. I di-mani'.fd v.hat he waiitcvl ; was iiiformeii a plac' in the
boat. As it was cnt'ri. ly lillcd, i was obliged to rcfufo his rc(.|ujlt. Ho follows us for
two miLs through every dithcuhy, and by his voice and gellures threatened revenge.
A< length a rower thought (it to acquaint us tliat he wiis the owner ol the boat, and
only wanted admillion in lieu ol one of them. 'Hie bc^at was orilereil to (horc, and tho
mailer taken in with proper apologies and aiteniprs to footh him for his hard treatment.
Inlload of infulting us with alnife, as a Ciiaron ot .South IJritain would have done, he
inltantly compoleil himleli, and told us through an iii'.erpretcr, that he felt great pride
in fnuiing that his condect hail gained any deg^ree of approbation.

("ontintie ourcourle. The lake, which at the be;Miining wasonly half a mile broid,
80W, nearly half its length, widens into a great bay, bending towards the fouth, abuijt
four mil',\s in breadth, fdleil with little iflcf, too much cludeied and indillindl.

Land on that called Jnch-maree, the favoured ille of the faint, the patron of all the
coall from Applvcrofs to Loch-broom. Tho (hores aro neat and gravelly; the whole
furfacc covered thickly with a be.iutiful grove of oak, alh, willow, wicken, birch, fir,
hazel, and enorn\ous hollies. In tlie midll is a circular dike of (loncs, with a regular
narrow entrance ; tho iimer part has been ufed lor ages as a burial place, and is dill in
ufe. I fufpedl the dike to have been originally druidical, and that the ancient fuperlli-
tion of Paganiftii had been taki n up by the faint, as the readied method of making a
conquell over the minds of the inhabitants. A llump of a tree is fliewn as the altar,
probably the nn'morial of one of (tone ; but the curiolity of the place is the well of the
faint, of power unfpeakable in cafes of liin;icy. '1 he patient is brought into the (acred
illand, is made to kneel before the altar, v here hi'^ attendants leave an oll'ering in money :
he is then brought to the well, and dps lome of llie holy water : a fcconJ ofl'ering is
made; that done, he is tlitice dipped in the hike; and tiie fame opcratioa is repeated
ever/ day lor Come weeks; and it oltai happe'us, by natural caules, the patient receives
fome nlief, of which the I'aint receives the credit. I nuili add, th.it the vifitants draw
from ihe (late ot the well an omen of the difpolition of St. i\Iarce : if his well is full,
they (uppoft' he will be propitious ; if not, they proceed in their operations with fears
and doubts ; but kt tho event be what it will, he is held in high elteem : the common
oath of the country is by his name : if a traveller palVes by anv of his relh'n;.',-piac'.'s, they
never negh.d to leave an offering ; but the faint is lb moderate as not to put hiia to any
fxpence : a (lone, a flick, a bit of rag contents him.

'J'his is ;he molt beautiful of the iflcs ; the others liave only a few trees fprinklcd over

tlieir furiace.

About a mile farther the lake again contracls. Pafs beneath a hiiih rock, formed of

/liort preci[;ices, with flielvcs between, filled with multitudes of felf-fown pines, making

a molt Leauiiiul aj)pearanc'.'.

'Ihe fouth (Ide of the water is bounded with mountains adorned with birch woods,

mixed with a few pines : a military road runs along its length. The mountains are

not very high, but open in many parts to give a view of others, w'.iofe naked and

broken tops ftiooting into fiiarp crajjs, (Irangely diverfify the Icene, and form a noble

termination.

Towards

pennant's SLCOND tour in SCOTLAND.

31»

Towards the bottom of the l;\kc' Is a hoadhuul, finely wooded to the very fuinmit.
IKiL' the water fiiddenly narrows to the breadth of a hundred yards, and continues fo
lor near a mile, iL.' banks elonthcd uiih trees, and often bending into little femilunar
bays to the very extremity ; from wiience its waters, after the courfe of a mile, a con-
tiiuial '-apUc, ilil'ehanjje into a deep and darkfoine hole called I'ooUEwe, which opens
into tlie large bay of Loch-Kwe.

The lake we had left is eighteen miles \ox\%: the waters are laid to be fpecirically
lighter than molt otitis, and v<'ry rarely frozen : the ilepth is various, in fome plates
fixty fathoms; but the bottom is very imeven : if ten feet of water were drained away,
tlie whoK' wt)uld apjiear a chain of liitle lakes.

The fjlh arc lalmon, char, and trout ; of the laft is a fpecies weighing thirty pounds.
Land ; are rtceived by the Rev. Mr. Dounie, miniller of GairkKh, whom we atti-nJ
to church, and hear a very edifying plain counnent on a portion of fcripturc. lie takes
VIS home with him, and by his hofpitality makes us experience the dilVerence between
the lodgings of the two nights.

Augud 3. '1 ake a view of the envuons : vifit the mouth of the river, where the
falmon-filhery fupjilies the tenant with three or four lalls of filh annually. On the
bank are the remains of a v('ry ancieni iron furnace. Mr. Dounie has feen the back
of a grate, marked S. G Hay, or Sir Geor;^e Hay, who was hea I of a company here
in the time of the Queen Rogent, and is fuppofed to have chofln this remote place for
the iiike of qu'et in tliofe tuibuh nt times.

Potatoes are railed here on the very peat-moors, without any other drains than the
trenches between the beds. The potatoes are kilii-dried for prefervation.

It is to be hoped that a town wil form itfelf here, as it is the (lation of a government
packet, that fails regularly from hence to Stornaway, in Lewis, a place now growing
confidtrable, by the ciicouragement of Lord Seaforth, the propiietor. This is a fpot
of much concourfe; for lure terminates the military road, wiiich croflTes from the eaft
to the well lea, connnencing at Invernefs, and pafling by Fair-burn and Straih-biaan to
this pl.ice. Yet I believe the bell inn on the kill thixty miles is tJiat of ]\lr. Roderick
Mac donald, our la; dlord the lad night but one.

Ride above fix miles f)Utli, and readi G.(ii-lorh,oonfifling' of a few fcattcred houfes,
en a line biy <>f the fame name, l^ieakfafl at I'lowerdale, a good houfe, beautifully
feated beneath hills finely woodt-d. This is the feat of Sir Heiftor Mackenzie, whofe
anceilor received a u rit of fire and fwonJ againlf ti)c ancient rebellious owners : he luc-
cceded in this cominiflion, and received their laiids for his pains.

The parilh of Gair-loch is verv extenfive, and the immber of inhabitants evidently
increale, owing to the limple method of life, and the eonveniency they have of drawing
aluppoit fri^n the fiflicry. If a voung man is poflelVrd of a herring-net, a h.md-line,
and three or four < (avs, he iminCiUately thinks himfeU aiile to fupport a taiuily, and mar-
iiiS. 'i lie pnii nt number of loiiisare about t.vo ihoviCand eight hundred.

Herrings ofl'i r themft-lves in flioals from June to January : cod-ftlh al ound on the
great land-bark, one corner of which reaches to this bay, and is fuppofed to txtvnd as
far as (.V.ipe-Wradi, and foutii as low as Roiia, oil .^kie ; with various brandies, all
fwarming with cod and ling. 'Ihefifhery iscarri.d ou with log-lines, begins in Fe-
bruary, ami (.nds in April. The aiuiual capture is uncertain, from live to twenty-
fevtii thoufand. The native.-- labour under fome oppreflious, which might be eafily rev
moved to the gnat advancement of this conun-rce. At pnfei.t the fi ill are fold to
fome merchants) from Campbeltown, who conirad for them with the laird, at two-
pence

I^IIU-

34»

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND,

pence-halfpenny a piece, after bcini; cured and diii'd in the fun. The merchants take
only tliofc that niealure eighteen inches from tlie rills t(i tW fitting on of thL- tail, and
cbhge tlie people tu let them iuwe two tor oneof all that are beneath that length. I'ho
lifli are feiit to liilboa : ling has alio been carried there, but was rejected by the Spa-
niards. This trade is far from bi in '^ pufhed to its full extent; is monopoli/cd, and
tile poor lillicrs cruelly forced to fell their fi(h tor three-halfpence a piece to thole who
fell it to the merchants.

I'he w;<nt oi' a town is very fenfibly felt in all ili >fe parts : there is no one commo-
dity, no one ariiile of life, or implement of tifliery, but what is gotten with dilliculty,
and at a great price, brought from a dillance by thole who are to make advantage of
the necellities of the people. It is much to be lamented that after the example of tiie
I'/arl of Seaforth, they do not colled a nuniber of inhabitants by fcuing their lands, or
granting leafes for a length oi years for t uilding ; but (till fo much of the fpirit of the
chieftain remains, that thev ilread giving an independency to liieir people; a falle po-
licy ! as it would ( nrieh both parti'S, an. I in.;ke the landlord more rel'pedable, as mailer
of a fet of decent tenants, than of thoulaiuls ot bare-footed half-ltarved valfals. At
prefent adventurers from ilKlant parts take the employ from the natives : a town would
create a market ; a market would foon occalion a concourle of (hipping, who would
then arrive with a certaiiuy ot a cargo ready taken for them ; and the mutual wants of
llranger and native would be fupplied at an eafy rate.

Thele and various other hints. Hung out to this refpedable part of our iflarid, in dif-
ferent parts of thele travels, have b^en adopted, and ads of parliament framed to carry
them into execution. 1 have only to widi everv luce Is to their elVorts ; ami (hall think
labours undergone in pointing out to my northern fellow I ubjeds their local advan-
tages fully repaid, by the relledion of having by my mite comrihutcd to iheir happinefs
and imprcvement. Let them not fight with the heavens, and thev will fucccil. Let
them cherith men, cattle, and fitheries, and the benefits will be telt irom the extreme
north to ilic mod fouthern promontory of our happy illand.

By example of a gentleman or two, fome few improvements in farming appear.
Lime is burnt; featang uled as manure ; and (ht-ll fand imported by fuch who can
afford the freight. But the bell trade at prefent is cattle : about five hundred are an-
nually fold out of this parith, from the price of one pound (even to two pounds five a
piece. About eij'hty horfes, at three pounds each, ami a huiulnd and fifty Ihecp at
three pounds per fcore. Tlic cattle arc blooded at (pring and fall : the blood is pre-
ferved to be eaten cold.

We found our vefTel faftly arrived at anchor with many others, under the (liclter of
a little ifle, on the fouth (ide r)f the bay. Wei^jh and get under lail with a good breeze.
Pafs by the mouth of Loch-'lorriJon : a few lea);ues farther by Apple-crols bay, fmall,
with populous and well cultivated (horcs. The back ground molt uncommonly moun-
tainous.

Apple crofs houfe is inhabited by a mod hofpi'able gentleman as fame reports: we
lamented there tore our inability to pay our n Ipccts.

On the right leave the ill-s cf Rona niu! K.da and Scalpay : before us is ('loulin,
and beyond foar the vaft hills of Skie. S.iil clofe under Cruulin, inhabited l)y two
families, produchii; a little corn and a few caiile. Almolt oppolite to its louthern end
is the common entrance into the two great '^chs, Kilferne and ('arron.

Pais the found between Skie and Kintaii , anchor about nine o'clock, and once more
fliYp beneath JNlac-kinnon's cadle.

Augud

PENNANT 8 snCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 343

Aiigufl 4. In failing down the bay, iiad to the north- cad a full view of Kiniail in Rofs-
(hire, the original ft-at of thi Mac-kenzics, or rather Mac-Kenneths •, a patronymic from
thi-ir threat ancellor Kenneth, fon of Colin Fitzgerald, of tlie houfi; of Defmond in
Ireland. To him Alexander 111. made a grant of thofe lands for his good fervices at
the hattle of Liirgfi, His poflcrity, a warlike race, filled all the lands ; lor the heroes
of North-llritain, like Polypes, multiply the more exceedingly by cuts and wounds.

Leave to the raft the entrance into Loch-Lung and Loch-Duach ; two miles from the
fouth fide of the laft are the dangerous pafTes of Glen-flieil and Strachell ; where, on
June the loth, 17 19, a petty rebellion, projected by Cardinal Alberoni, and to have
been lup[H)rted by tiie Spaniards, was fuppreflld. A tempell dilperfed the hoftile
iquadron, and only about three hundred forces arrived. The Highlanders made a poor
(land at Strachell ; but were quickly put to fliv^ht, when they had an opportunity of
deftroying the King's forces by rolling down ftones from the heights. I muft not omit
that among the clans that appeared in arms, was a large body lent by a neighbouring
chieftain, m-rely for the battle of that one day ; and win or lofe was to return home
tliat night.

Pals through the Kil-ru, bufietted fevcrely on the way by violent fqualls. Land on
the tiiil fide in the parilh i>f Glen-elg, in the county of Iiivernefs. The veflel anchors
three miles diftant on the oppofite fide of the bay, under Skie.

Walk up to the church ; and obferve near it a fingular tree, whofe boughs had bent
to the ground, and taking root formed a ftrange arbour. Pafs by the barracks of
Berncra, built in 1722, handlbme and capacioin, defigncU to hold two hundred men:
at prcfent occupied by a corporal anil fix foldiers. The country lament this negled.
They are now quite fenfible of the good effeds of the military, by introducing peace
and iecuiity : they fear leaft the evil days fliould return, and the ancient thefts be re-
newed, as foon as the banditti find this protection of the people removed.

Walk up the valley of Glen-Elg, or ihe vaie of Deer: vifit Mr. Macleod, the
miniltcr, and receive all the welcome that the Res angujhi Domils would permit. He
Ihewed us, at a fmall diflance from his houle, the remains of a mine of black lead,
nej;It ded on account of the poverty of what the adventurers found near the furface ; but
it is probable, that atajiroper depth it may be found to equal thai of Cumberland. A
poor kind of bog iron ore is alfo found here.

Above the manff, on the top of a hill, is a Britifli fortrefs, diked round with ftone,
and in the middle is ihe veltige of a circular inclofure, perhaps of a building, thefhelter
of the oilicers. Within fight is another of thefe retreats, ^^ hich are called in the Erfe,
Badhun, or the place of refuge.

• 'I''i ft were tlic tliief gentlemen, in 1603, in the flicn'fWom of Invernef=, wliich at that tline included
le (Uiic of that Baiiic, KoU, Stiathiiavcrn, CaithneG, Sutherland, and the Nortlicin Hebridte.

M icloyd, of Lewis,
Mailovd, of Harri«a,
Donald Goinu-fiiiin,
Macnill, of bariay,
Mvilcalioun, of Rofay,
John Mudzait, captain of

tiie Clanrnnn.iln,
The Laird of Glengarry
The L if Kncydart,
Mac-ken/.ie,
L. of G.uhiche,
L. of lialnagowne,

L. of Fowles,

Shcrrife of Cromartic,

Dumbeith,

Forfe,

Oianftcale,

^^ackye,

Ntii Ilutclufoiin, in AflTent,

Mat'kentofciic, captain of the

Claiichaniroun,
Jj. of Glcnewes,
Ravniild Mac-raynoldj of

Keppache.

(ifB';! Kfl'ii

i'l'l

... ,

Ml '■M

) m

Tills

amaag

BBBBI

i^mmm

314

FEKNANT'd SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

This valloy is tho property of Mr. Miidcod, of Punvcqnn, acquired by a nnniapo of
ananccOor with ? daiighter of Lord liiillct. Tho parilh is of vallixtiTit, and coinprf".
hcnds Knndiart and North Mornr. CJIenol^^ has near iVvon humlrcd inhahi';\nt», :(!1
prnttd.tnts ; the other two diftritlfi aio alniofl ciifiroly nt tho pi)pi(h priruafion. The
reader wlio has the ciiriolity to know tho number of Roman (lailioiic:; in tliclc partf? of
North Hritain, may fatisfy his curiolily in the Appendix, from an abftraft t.ikrn from the
Report made by the getitlomcn appointed liy the General A\(lemoly,in 1760, to vifit
thele remote Highlands, and ilic Hebrides, for tho purpofc of enquiring Into the ftatcuf
relif:ion in thole parts.

'1 his part of (Jlen-Elp; is dividcil into two vallie8 ; Glen-more, where the barracks arc,
from will* h is a military read of lilty-one i\ules extent, reuchini; to I''ort-Aut;u(lus : the
other isGlen-bcg. 'ihe pnrilh lends out a coiilidor.ible ninnbir ofoattle: ihcfe valli. «;
would b<" fertile in corn, was it not ior the pla^jueof rain, which prevents lillago to Inch
a deforce, that the poor inhabitants leel the fnmo dilln fiiaas their ueij'Jibours.

Walk back by the barr.uk •. to Glen-bcg, to vilit the celebrated edilices attributed to
the DanpR : the fiiiM". placed ab;<ut two miles from the mouih of the valley. Tho
more entire fide appcarsof a molt eleg.ant tajier form: the prifent h( i^lit is thirty feet
fix inches ; but in 1722, fome Goih purloined from th." top, feven feet and a half,
under pretence of aj)plying the materials to certain public building.;. l\v the appear-
ance of lomc ruins that now lie at the bale, and which have lailen oHlince that time,
1 believe three feet more may be added i > the hi.it;ht, which will make the whole about
forty-one,

'Ihe whole is built with dry wall;:, but the courl'es moil beatiiiriilly dilpoftd. On
one fide is a breach of at leall one quariir of the circumftrence. The diameter within
is thirty. three feet and a I all, taken at a dillance often feel fn.m the liittom : the wall in
th:;t part is ieven feet four inches iliick, but is formed liiiir.n r and liiinneriill it reaches
the top, whole breadth 1 forgot to cauleto be mealurcd. '1 his infide wall is quite per-
pendicular, fo that the inntT diameter muii have been equal Iroin top to bottom : but
tho exterior wall Hopes, oncreafing in thickfiefs till it readies the ground.

In the tii'ckntls of the wall wire two '.-alleries; one at the IovvlT part, about fix feet
two inches high, and t\K) leet five at the liOttom, iiarrt wing to the top; (lagged,
and alio covered over with great llat lloncs. 'I'his gallery ran quite round, and that
horizontally, but was divided into apartments : in one plaei- with lix llai;s, plav''( d equi-
dillant from each other ; and were aceellible above by means cf a !iole lioin another
gallery : into the lower were two entrances (before the ruin of the other fide there had
been two otht is) above each cf thefe entrances were a row of holes, running up fo the
top, divided by flags, appinrint;; likefnelves: mar ti.e top was a circle of pi'ojeding
Aones, which probably were intended to hold the beams that formed tho roof: above
is another hole like the forir.er. None of thefe openings pals through, for there is not
the appearance of wiii'.Iovv nor opening on t'.ie outlide wall. Ali thefe holes are fquare ;
arc too fmall to a imit the fuiinan botjy, fo were probably defigned to lodge arms, and
difJercnt other matters, fecure from w.t or Iiarni.

Over the fuff gallery was another, divided jicinitonly by flags. This alfo went
round, but was free from any feparation : the height was five feet fix; only twenty
inches wide at bolt jm. 'J his was alio covered with llags at top.

At a diilance uboie, In the broken fides of the wall, was another hole ; but it fi eined
too fmall for a gallery. Theafcent was not fafe, fo could not venture up. The heidit
was taken by a little boy, who fcrambled to the top.

Tile

PKNNANT> BECOND TOUR IM (COTLAND, 345

The entrance was a fquarc hole, on the well fule : before it were the remains oF
fomo biiiljinj!;, wirh a narrow oponinp that led to the jloor. Alinull coiitl^iio'.is to this
ontranco or nortiro, was a fniall circle fornu-d ui nulo (loncJ', which was called tlio
fuiindativm ()t the Druids* houfos. It probably was forinod for foine religious pur-
pulV. 1 was told tlxMc wert' ni;iny others of (his kind Icait-red over the vall.-y.

At Iffs than a fjuarfi-r of a mile dillant from this Hands the focnd tow t, on a little
flat on tho Tide of the hill. The form is fiinilar, but the number of galleries differs:
here arc three, the lowed goes entirely round ; but at the ead ''nd is an aperture now of
a fmall dcntli, hut onceof li'ch extent, tliat the ^oats which flieltered in it were often
lofl : on tluu account thi entrance was fdled witii (tones. This it Cx feet high, four
feet two inches broail, and Ha,:!;ii;( d above and below.

A fccond gallery was of the fame height, but the breadth of the floor only three feet
live.

The third gallery was of fuch difficult accofs that I did not attempt to pet up : it
was fo narrow and low, that it was with difHculty that the child who climbed to it could
creep throujrh.

The prcfont iicight of this.fowcr is only twenty-four feet five inches ; the diameter
thirty ; the thicknei's of the lower part of the wall twelve feet four.

I could not perceive any ti ces of the winding flairs mentioned by Mr. Gorden : but
as thefe buildings .lave full -ed great'" fincc that gentleman faw them I have no doubt
of his accuracy.

Thefe were in all probability pi --i i .(f defence ; but it is difficult to fay any thing on
the fubjcct of their origin, or by vliat nation they were crefted. They are called here
Caiflcal ' eilbah, or the ■ !''"Rof Teiiha, bi > by a mother for her four fons, as tra-
dition, delivered in this t anil tion of lour lirle linci, infornii> :

My fdin- font a fair rian,
I It It iiiilic (lialli of one j^Ien :
My Malc-oiiil), my l)ViIy Cliuiul,
My Telve,niy TrodJam.

There had been two others, now totally demoliflied, and ench named after her child-
ren. Mr. Gordon meniions others of this kind ; one at Glen-dunin, two at E.ider
Fearn in Rofs-fliire, and two or three in Lord Reay's country : one of which is called
the Dune of Dornadilla, from an imaginary prince, who rei,i;ned twoluiiidrcd and fixty
years before the Chridian :x;ra. 'I'liis appears to be fo well defcrihed by an anonymous
writer in the Edinburgh ma[;axine, that it will pofllbly be acceptable to tlie reader to
find it copied in the note *.

The

9 ir'n

•111

• •' III the nioft tiortliern part of Scotland, called I.orc. Reay's country, not far from Tongue, and near
tile head of the river wliith ruin into the Nuilh Sea at Loch ''Cribol, h tlit rciniiiiisdf a (lone tower, which
I appicheiiJ to he a Druidic work, and to ht the grcatcll pitce pf antiquity in tliis ifl.iiid. It is furpfiling
that it li fo little known cvtn to the nativci of that country : I don't remember to have ever fcen it men-
tioncw in any book whatever, nor do I rccolleft whetlier Mr. Pennant has received any Information con-
ccining it. This tower is tailed by the ncighbouiiujr inhabuantt, the Dniie of Dornadilla. It it of a cir-
cular lorm, and now nearly refembling the frulltuin of a cone : whether, when perfect, it terminated in a
point, I cannot pretend to gue!« ; but it feenis to have been formerly higher, by the rubbifh which lies
round it. It i<> built of ftone. without cement, and 1 take it to be bctwccu lo and 30 feet high Hill. The
entrance is by a veiy low and narrow duor, to ])af3 through which one h obliged to Hoop much ; but, per-
haps, the ground may have been raifed lince the firll erection.

•' When one is got in, and placed in the centre, it is open over head. All rniii'd the fides of the walU
are ranged ftone Hielves, one above atwther, like the dieives in a circular bcaufalt, u-aching from near the
bottom to the top. The llonei \Nhich compofe thtle Hielves are l'up;>orted chiefly by the (lores which

vol.. III. V Y fort*

34^

tcnnant's second tour m scotlamo.

The rain, which jjovired a deluge during the whole of this walk, attended with a mod
violciit pale, prevented us from going abroad : but we found a nvoft comfortable
lodging uricicr the hcifpitable roof of the Rood niiniftcr.

AiiguR 5. 'Jlic whole morning continued wet and boifterous. In the evening crofs
over to Skic : Ice, near the fhore, cut on the live rock, an infcription in rude characters.
It mud Inve been of great antiquity, as it was difcovered by the accidental digging of
peat at the depth of four feet.

Auj^nll 6. Weigh anchor at eight o'clock in the morning, and turn out with wind
and tide adverfe. After a ftruggle of three or four miles, put into I.och-Jurn, or the
lake of hell, vn the lavcrncfs coaft , and anchor about two o'clock near a little iflc to the
fouth fule. !Viir miles within the mouth. Land on the north fide, three miles dillant
fi'jm our lliip, and vifit Mr. Macleod of Arnifdale : I (liall never forget the hofpitality
of the houfc : before I could utter a denial, three glafles of run. cordialized with jelly
cf bilberries, were poured into me by the irrefiilible hand of good Madani Macleod.
MeflVt:. Lightfoot and Stuart fallied out in high fpirits to botanize : 1 defctnded to my
boat to make the voyage cf the lake.

Steer S. F. After a (mall fpace the water widens into a larg ? bay, bending to the fouth,
which tears the iiameof Barrildale: turn fuddenly to the eafl, and pafs through a very
narrow (Iralt, with fcveral little ifles on the outfide; the water of a great depth, and
the tide violent. For four miles before us the loch was flrait, but of an oval form ;
then fuddenly contrads a fecond time. Beyond that was another reach, and an inflant-
aneous and agreeable view of a great fleet of buffes, and all the bufy apparatus of the
herring fiflicry ; with multitude of little occafional hovels and tents on the fliore, for the
accommodation of the crews, and of the country people, who refort here at this feafon
to take and fell herrings to the flrangers. An unexpected fight at the diflance of
thirteen mi!es from the fea, amidfl the wildefl fcene in nature.

A litfle farther the loch luddenly turns due South, and has a very narrow inlet to a
third reaeh : this flrait is fo fliallow as to be fordablo at the ebb of fpring-tidcs ; yet
has within, the depth of ten and fevcntcen fathom : the length is about a mile ; the
breadth a quarter. About feven years ago it was fo filled with herrings, that had
crowded in, that the boats could not force their way, and thoulands lay dead on the
ebb.

The fccnery that fiirrounds the whole of this lake has an Alpine wildncfs and magni-
ficence ; the hills of an enormous height, and for the moft part cloathed withextcnfivc

form the wall*, and which projedl ali round jiift In that place where the fhdves ,ire, and in no others : eacli
of the (helvts is f'parated into fevtral divilioiis as in a l>ook-c:ife. There in fimii: rttnaiii: of an awkwaril
(lair-cafe. What ufc the rtielvcs could be apph'ed to I cannot conceive. It could not l;c of any tnih'-
tary 'ife from its filuation :<l the bottom of a (loping hill, whirl) wholly commands it. 'I'hi' motl IcainfJ
ainoiig the inhabitai)ti, fiich as the }:eiitry and tlirgy, who all i;-eak he Frilh lai^jnaf^c, cniiid i;ive no infor-
nistit-n or tra<!i!iir. concerninj; it? ufe. or the ')rl);in and mcaninj^ of its name. But fimic years liner I iiaii-
pcncd, ;it an auition of books in LoncUin, to look into a Ircntli bcok, contain'n^ {/aulidi antiijiiitiv s, ai.d
theie I faw a pti- 1 of the remains of a Driii«l!u- temple in l-'raiice, whijh j^reatly rel'eniMi s the to-.vrr I nm
fpeakii g of, h..ving like fhelvcs iu it. And reading a late paniplilet on the anticjnity "t iIk- Iri/h hingii igr,
i think I tail piitly ttjce the otijjin of the name l)orna<hlla At page 24, the author l.iyi, that Durn
mtar s a r< und iliJiu , fo th.it ;ibdorn would mean ihe round lionc of t!ii prirtU : ki i^ of, and I)i i-; (,",,1/ ; at
p.nge .}?, he la)i. In the lill line, uila means a phce of devotion ; fo that Dorn-na l)i-ii!la will li,;nii'y the
round llouc pi !ce of the worrtilp of God ; or perhaps it rnijjht jilhide to f.ime round done prefv'ivtd within
as.ilaciid eni'.,un> of divinity. A* I r.in ni.t acquainted with the Irifli l.mj^'u.ij^e, it any of your cnrvc-
fpondeii's t-n >,'.'vt <ii^y be ter aceount, either of the natiiie of inch Diiiidic temiiles, or of this name iu

parliiular, ii vmII, jiihaps, Ic acceptable to others as well js your humble fcrvant."

furefl!

FeNNANT's SECOND tOUR IM SCOTLAND.

a-*;

forefls of oak and birch, often to the very fummits. In many places- are extenfivre
trafts of open fpace, verdant, and only varied with a few trees fcatterea over them :
arnidfl the thiLkeft woods afpire va(t grey rocks, a noble contraft ! nor are the iofty
headlands a lefs embellifhment ; for through the trees that wave on their fuinmit, isau
awful fight of (ky, and fpiring fummits of vaft mountains.

On the fouth fide, or the country of Knodyart, are vaft numbers of pines, fcattered
among the other trees, and multitude of young ones fpringing up. A conflagration had
many years ago deftroyed a fine foreft ; a lofs which, in a little time, it is to be hoped,
will be repaired. Befides this, I can add fome other pine forells to my former lift • :
that near Loch-maree ; Abernethy, and Roth-murchu ; both belonging to gentlemen
of the name of Grant ; Glen-moio, the Duke of Gordon's ; and Glen-taner, the pro-
perty of Lord Aboyne. Our old botanifts are filent about thefe Britifli produftions,
till the time of Mr. Evelyn and Mr. Ray. This fpecies of pine feems not to have been
cultivated in England, till the former, as he fays, received fome feeds from that unhappy
perfon, the ':.te Marquis of Argyle : but Speed, in his chronicle, mentions the vaft fize
of thofeon the banks of Loch-Argicke, and their fitnefs for marts, as appeared by the
report from commiflioners fent there for that purpofe, in the time of James f VI.
I'aylor, the w:\ter-poet, fpcaks in high terms of thofe in Brae-mar, '* That there are as
many as will fervo to the end of the world, for all the (hippes, carracks, hoyes, galleys,
b ate?, druinlcrs, barkes and water craftcs, that are now in the world, or can be thefe
lorty years J.

It is not wonderful, that the imagination, amidft thefe darkfome and horrible fcenes,
fliould figure to itldf ideal beings, once the terror of the fuperftitious inhabitants : in
Icfs-enliglitincd times a dreadful fpe£lre haunted thefe hills, fometimcs in form of a
great dog, a man, or a thin gigantic hag called Glas-lich. The exorcift was called in
to drive away thefe evil Genii : he formed circle within circle, ufed a multitude of
charms, forced the Daemon from ring to ring, till he got it into the laft entrenchment,
when if it proved very obftinate by adding new fpells, he never failed of conquering
the evil fpirit, who like that which haunted the daughter of Ragucl, was

With a vengeance fent
From Media poll to Egypt, there faft bound.

In our return from the extremity of this fequcftered fpot, are moft a^eably amufed
with meeting at leaft a hundred boats, rowing to the place we were leaving, to lay their
nets ; while the perfons on (hore were bufied in lighting fires, and preparing a repaft
for their companions, againft their return from their toilfome work.

So unexpcdod a profpeft of the bufy haunt of men and ftiips in this wild and ro-
mantic tradt, afforded this agreeable reflettion : that there is no part of our dominions
fo remote, fo inholpitable, and fo unprofitable, as to deny employ and livelihood to
thoufands ; and that there are no parts fo polilhed, fo improved, and fo fertile, but
which mull (loop to receive advantage from the dreary fpots they fo effeftually defpife ;
and muft be obliged to acknowledge the mutual dependency of part on part, howfoever
remotely placed, and howfoever different in modes or manner of living. Charles Bran-
don's addrefs to his royal Ipoufe may well be applied to both extremes of our ifle :

Cloth of gold, do not defpife,

Altho' thou art match'd with doth of friie.

Clotli of fri/.e, be not too bold,

Altho* thou art match d with cloth of gold.

• I ft, iJ, id edit. pp. 183, 19). aiz.
X I'tiiniltire rilgrlroage, 136.

\ Speed's Chronicle, p. 9.

"■'r^'!\

II, f i !«

Infill

Y V 2

Return

^f II

349

FPKMANt's SF.COND tour in SCOTLAND.

Return to Armifdal?, and pal's a mod cliearful evening. Mr. Lightfoot j'sturned
happy in hcxving iounii thi.* r.zalea procunibens ; Mr. Stuart loaden with fine fpecimens
oi amiantt'.us aiul Mack talc.

Rtturn on board at midnight : the night mod: cxccdivcly dark, but every ftroke of
cur oars, cvi i y progrellive motion of our boat, hung a mod refplendcnt glory around,
and left fo long and himinous a train in our wake, as more than compenfattd the
want of flars in the firmament. This appearance was occafioned by myriads of nofti-
hicous Nrrcids, that inhabit the ocean, and on ev^ry agitation become at certain times
apparent, and often remain (licking to the oars, and, like gl'.iw-worms, give a fine
light. Mr. Thompibn informed us, that they were moft brilUant before rain and
tenipefts. He was not deceived in his predictions.

There is not an inllance of any country having made fo fudden a change in its
morals as this I have jud vifitcd, and the vaft trad intervening between thefe coafts
and Loch-nefs. ijecurity and civilization poflefs every part ; yet thirty years have
not elapfed fince the whole was a den of thieves, of the nioU extraordinary kind.
They conduced their plunderirg excurfions with the utmofl policy, and reduced the
whole art of theft into a regular fyllem. From habit it Io!l all the appearance of cri-
minality ; they confidercd it as labouring in their vocation, and, when a party was
formed for an cNpcdition againil their neighbour's property, they and their friends
prayed as carneftly to heaven lor fucctfs, as if they were engaged in the mod laudable
defign.

The conflant petition at grace of the old Highland chieftains, was delivered with
great fervour, in thefe terms : " Lord ! turn thou the world urfide down, that Chrif-
tians may make bread out of it." The plain Englifli of this pious rcqueit was, that
the world might become, for their benefit, a fcene of rapine and confufion.

They paid a facrcd regard to their oath ; but as fuperllition mulf, rmnng a fet of
banditti, infallibly fuperlcde piety, each, like the diflincl cads of Indians, had his par-
ticular objed of veneration j one would fwear upon his dirk, and dread the penalty
of perjury, yet make no fcruple of forfwearing himfelf upon the Bible ; a fecond would
pay the fame refpcd to the name of h's chieftain ; a third again would be moll re-
ligicufly bound by the facred hook, ..ivl a fourth regard none of the three, Hnd be
cr< dited only if he fwore by his cruciii.c. It was always necelTary to iliftover the in-
clination of the perion, before you put him to the tell : if the objei^ of his venem.tion
was millaken, the oath was of no fignification.

The greatcd robbers were ufed to prefervc hofpitality to thofe that ci.iue to their
houfej:, and, like the wild Arabs, obRrved the ftridell honour towards their guefts, or
thcle that put implicit eonfiJence in them, 'i'he Kennedies, two common thieve;, took
the young Pretender under proteilion, and kept I.im widi faith inviolate, notwithllaud-
ing they knew an imuunfe rewa i was offered for his head. They often robbed for
his fupport, and, to fuppiy him with linen, thiy once furprized the b.ig^'age horles of
one of our general officers. They often went in difguife to Invtm ' to buy pro-
v:.. ms for him. At length, a very confiderable time after, one of ii. poor hllows,
who had urlue to refill the temptation of thirty thoufand poundt., was hanged for
Healing a cow, value thirty {hillings.

The greattd crime among thefe felons, was tliat of infidelity among themfelves : a
criiiiinal unJtrwent a (ummary trial, and, if corivided, never milled ol a capital puuilh-
nient. The chieftain had his oflicers, and dill'erent departments of government; he
had his judge, to whom he entiuded the decifion of all civil difputes ; but, in criminal
cauics, the chief, alUIled perhaps by feme lavouritcs, always undertook the procels.

14 'llic

11 i

pennant's second tour in PCOTLANn. 349

The principal men of his fnnii'y, or his officers, formed his council ; where every
jhing was deb;ited refpcding their expeditions. Eloquence was held in great eftcem
among thum, for by that tht-y could fometimes work on their chieftain to change his
opinion ; for, notwiihflanding he kept the form of a council, he always referved the
decifive vote in hinifclf.

When one man had a claim on another, but wanted power to make it good, it was
held lawful for him to ileal from his debtor ay many cittle as would fatisfy his demand,
provided he fent notice (as foon as he got out of reacu of purfuit,) that he had them,
and would return them, provided fatisfadlion was made on a certain day agreed on.

When A creach, or threat expedition, had been made againft dillant herds, the
owners, as foon as difcovery was made, rofe in arms, and, with all their friends, made
indant purfuit, tracing the cattle by their track for perhaps fcores of miles. Their
nicety in didinguifhing that of their cattle from thofe that were only cafually wander-
ing, or driven, was amazingly fagacious. As foon as they arrived on an eftate where
the track was loft, they immediately attacked the proprietor, and would oblige him to
rcvover the track from his land forwards, or to make good the lofs they had fudained.
1 his cuftom had th^ force of law, which gave to the Highlanders this furprizing (kill
in the art of tracking.

It has been obferved before, that to fteal, rob, and plunder with dexterity, was ef-
teemed as the liigheft aft of heroifm. The feuds between the great families was one
great caufe. There was not a chieftain but that kept, in forae remore valley in the
depth of woods and rocks, whole tribes of thieves in readinefs to let loofe againft his
neighbours ; when, from fome public or private reafon, he did not judge it expedient
to refent openly any real or imaginary affront. Fnm this motive the greater chieftain,
robbers always fupported the leffer, and encouraged no fort of improvement on the
eftates but what promoted rapine.

The greateft of the heroes in the laft century, was Sir Ewin Cameron, whofe fife
is given in the other volume. He long refiiled the power of Cromweil, but at length
was forced to I'ubmit. lie lived in the neighbourhood of the garrifon fixed by the
ufurpcr at Invcrlochy. His vaifals perfifted in their thefts, till Cromwell fent orders
to the commanding-ofticcr, that on the next robbery he ftjould feize on the cliieftain,
and execute him in twenty-four hours, in c;>fe the thief was not delivered to juftice.
An acl of rapine foon happened ; Sir Ewin received the mclTage, who, inftead of
giving himfelf the trouble of looking out for the offender, laid hold of the firft fellow
he met with, lent him bound to Inver-lochy, wliere he was inftantly hanged. Crom-
well, by this leverity, put a (lop to the excilFes, till the time of the reftoration, when
they were renewed with doable violence till the year 1745.

Rob-Roy Macgregor was another diftir.fj;uifli?d hero in the latter 'rid of the laft, and
the beginning of the prefeut century. He c-ntributed greatly tovva forming his
protertion into a fcience, and eftablilhing the police above mentioned. e Duke ot

Montrofe unfortunately was his neighbour; Rob boy frequently faved hio Grace the
trouble of collefting his rents; ufed to extort them from the tenants, and at the fame
time gave them formal difcharges. But it was neither in the power of the Duke or of
any of the gentlemen he plundered to bring him to juilice, to ftrongly protected was
he by feveral great men to whom he was uleful, Roy had his good qualities, he
fpent his revenue generoufly ; and, ftrange to fay, was a true friend to the widow
and orphan.

Every period of time gives new improveinent to the aits A fon of Sir Ewin Ca-
mevoo refmed on thofe of Rob-Roy, and, inftead of diflipaiing his gains, accumulated

wealth.

' W.

^''^m

iF 'i

SULHIKtl: ■ •

350

PBNNTAMT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

wealth. He, like Jonathan ^'H\il tue Great, never ftole with his own hands, but con-
duiftcd his commerce with an addrcfs, and to an extent unknown before. He em-
ployed feveral companies, and fet the more adroit knaves at their head, and never luf-
fered merit to go unrewarded. He nover openly received their plund.;r, but em-
ployed agents to purchafe from them their cattle. He acquired confiderable pro-
perty, which he was forced to leave behind, after the battle of Culloden gave the fata!
blow to all their greatnefs.

The lad of any emine ce was the celebrated Barrifdale, who carried thefe arts to
the hij^helt pitch of perfedion : befides exerting all the common praflices, he im-
proved that article of commerce called the black meal to a degree beyond what \v:is
ever known to his predeceflbrs. This was a forced levy, (c) called from its being com-
monly paid in meal, which was raifed far and wide on the eilate of every nobleman
and gentleman, in order that their cattle might be fecured from the k-fier thioves, over
whom he fecrttly prefidcd, and protefted. He railed an income of five Iimdred a
year by thefe taxes ; and behaved with genuine honour in refloring, on proper con-
fideration, the ilolen cattle of his friends. In this he bore fome rclfmblance to our
Jonathan, but diftered, in obfefving a drift fidelity towards his own gang ; yet he was
indefatigable in bringing to jiiftice any rogues that interfered with his own. He was a
man of polifhed behaviour, fine addrefs, and fine perfon. He confuiercd himfelf in a
very high light, as a berefaftor to the public, and preferver of general tranquillity, for
on the lilver plates, the ornaments of his Baldrick, he thus addrelfed his broad-iword :

F« tibi erunt artM, pacis componert morei ;
Pa-cerc fubjeftis ei dehellare fiipi rb»>».

Aug. 7. After a mcfl fcmpeftuous and rainy night, fail at eight o'clock in the morn-
ing, defigning to reach the found of Mull but the wind proving contrary, we ran
over to llle Oranfay in the ifle of Skie, a fafe harbour j where we continued confined
by adverfe winds till the next day.

Aug. 8. At half an hour after one at noon, fail. As foon as we got out, we
found a vafl fwcll from the fury of the laft night's florm ; the waves mountainous,
but, thanks to a gentle breeze, we made our way finely through thi m.

Pafs on the ealt, Loch-nevifli, or the lake of Heaven, a fine and piflurefque inkt.

Pol-morrer where fmall craft may lie. About half a mile inland from this bay is
the jrrcat frefh-water lake called Loch-morrer ; next is the country of .\rifaig, and its
celebrated point ; for within this, a little to the fouth, in Loch-nan-ua, or the bay of
caves, landed the young Pretender, on July 25, (745 ; and from hence concluded his
Phaetonic expedition, SeptemK-r Joth of the following year. The two frigates that lay
there in May of the fame fun-mer, with arms and ammunition, had an engagement off
this point with two of ours, and maintained their (lation. They landed p;nt of their
jflores, but finding the caufe defperatc, returned to Fra.'ce with feveral of the fugitives
from the battle of Culloden. *

Sail by Loch-Hailyort, and the country of Moydarr, the mofl foutherly part of the
fliire oflnvernefs. Leave to the well the point of Slate in Skie; the valt hills of Bla-
ven and Cjchullin open to view, then fucceeds the mountainous Rum ; keep clofe
under the ifle of Egg, diftinguifhed by the lofty fpiro of Squr-egg. Pafs immediately
under the point ot Ard-na-murchan, the mod northern part of Argykfhire. Turn
into the found of Mull, a fine opening five miks broad : to the call of tiie point is
J-och-funart, penetrating deeply into the country of Morvcn. At the head is Stron-

tian.

HENNAKT'3 second TOUa. IN SCOTLAND.

35^

tian, noted for a lead-mine. About nine o'clock at night anchor in Tobir Moire bay,
in the ifle of Mull.

This bay is a mod beautiful circular bafon, formed by Mull on one fide, and the ifle
of Culvt, on the other. All the banks are verdant and embellilhed at this time with
tbrce cafcadfs. It takes its name from a chapel and well, dedicated to the Virgin
Mary. Herein 1588 the Florida, one of Philip's invincible Armada was blown up
after the jifpcrfion of the fleet ; fome fay by accident, others by the defperate refolu-
tion of '. Scotchman. Several attempts were made to recover the funk treafure. One
ill 1688, by William Sacheverel, Efq. who fitted up diving bells, and tried them with
fucccfs at tlie depth often fathom, and report fays, he got up much treafure. A piece
of the wreck was given me by an old inhabitant of the place; to be prefeived in me-
mory of this fignal providence, fo beautifully acknowledged by Queen Elizabeth in
the motto of the medal ftruck on the occafion :

Afflarit Deu8, et Jiflipantur.

In this bay alfo the unfortunate Earl of Argyle may be faid to have wrecked both life
and fortune, in the year 16S6 : for in this place he made the fird landing with a f'w
friends, in his fatal invafion in concert with the Duke of Monmouth. The mod ii..
human medal I ever favv (next to that in memory of the maflacre of Paris, by Charles
IX.) is one in my poffcfllon, ilruck'by James II. on occafion of the fad cataftrophe of
thefe two noblemen. Their heads are placed on two altars, at whofe bafe are their
bleeding corpfes ; the motto,

Ambitio malefuada ruit.

A little north is Bloody-bay, fo called from a fca-fighi between a Macdonald of the
ifles and his fon. The former was fupported by Heftor Obhar Macleane, the fame who
died glorioufly at the batile of Floddon, covering his monarch, James IV., from the
arrows of the Englifli a»-chcrs.

On the oppofite fliore of Morven is Dun-an-gal, a ruined caftle of the Macleanes.
In this the rebels of 1719 put a fmall garrifon, which foon furrendered to one of our
men of war that attacked it.

Aug. 9. Leave Tober Moire at eight o'clock in the morning, and about half pad
ten, anchor oppofite to Arcs cafl''', featcd on a rock above the lea, and once a feat of
Macdonald of the ides. At the foot of the reck is the ruin of an oval pier, where he
fecurcd his boats.

Brcakl'ad with Mr. C.mipbel of Aros, and collefl a few particulars of this rough
ifland : that it is twenty-four Scotch miles long, and about the fame in breadth ; that
it is divided into thv great parifhcs, viz. Torcay, Hnfs, and Kilmore, or Kil-ninian,
contairiini; in ail ne:.! lour tlioufand catechifable perfons ; that it is in general rocky
and barren, and docs not yield corn enough for its inhabitants ; that it fends out an-
nually about eighteen himdred head of cattle, fold from thirty to fifty fhillings a-piece;
that there ar,^ but few fheep ; that the graziers have fuffered greatly this year by the
lofs of cattle, but that none of the iicople have as yet migrated. That the ul'ual manure
isfii'llland, vvhich the farmers procure from Tir-ey. That there \ '-oal in ihe ifland
nearly inaccr i^le by the badneis of 'he roads! and that this mofl .!■■,[ .^rtant article,
which alone wuuld bring wealth ai. ! r mfort to the ifle is unaccountably ncglefted !

'ihe illand nas originally part oi .ho domini' :jS of the Lords of the Hies, but in
aficr-tinics became the polfellion of the ant" nt and valiant fa'-'.!? of the Macleane' ,
who dill retain ha'f. The other moiety is . . litigated properly o\ the Duke of A;-

352

PHNNANT's SECOMO tour in SCOTLAND.

gyle, whofe .ncedor poilefled litinlclf of it in 167.;, on account of a ilibt ; and after
tho courts ol i.i •' had muJe an aJjudicaiion in liii' favour, he was obliged to fupport
their decree bv force of arms.

Sail ai^ain down the found, which in general is about four milcs broad ; the coaft
on botli fuL'S iir-pes and is p:uched with corn-land. 'Jhe northern coafl is Morvcn, the
celebrated countr) of Tiugal.

Leave on !hi.-< fide Loch-aylin, a fafe harbour, will', :i mod c:"T'^rafted cntr.mce. A
little hirtliei "s Caflle-ardtoinilh, a ruin .>n a hw headland ji; tiuji!; into the found,
where in i (>.)!, John I'.iirl of Rofs, rind Lord o* ;."e Iflc,, liv d '•i regal flate *. His
treaty with hdward IV. is dated, ex rri/lcl/o n./tro /he! thorrisOili.,- 1. 19, A. D. 1441 f.

Ou the Mi)d l:dc is M ic aiiefler" . bay, v.nl be! ,v, th i, \.

W I

he ibund opens to

thc-ead is Calile duart, i-n-ce the fc't of the Macleanes, lords ol the idand, but now
garrifoned by : lieutenar.. ai.d a detut.hinent ;<om l''ort-\Villiain. Morven, near Ard-
torniGi, begins to i^row lofty ud woodeu ; and the Mall beyond this caflle appears
vei7 mountainous,

Traverfc the broad water of Lo' 'i-l'nn'^'';, which L-iJ* i.p to Lochaber. Have a
fine view of the v.if' niounta.iu. avd tl.; p"cturefc)ue liii!.; cf (iK-n-co. P.ifs to the
fouthciCi end of Lifmore, and fleer liort'i between ilia '0 anl Middle Lorn. Sail by
the ifle '^f Kerrera, noted for the de uh o! Alex..> der i'. in i:.»9, while he lay there
with a mighty fleet meditating the conquell of the Hebrides, then pofl'cd'ed by the Nor-
r.'f»g,i :,r',!'.

Oppofite to this ifland, in Lorn, is the bay of Oban, where are the cuftom-houfe
«:n(' pofl-ofrice.

On a grpi^.t rock within land, precipitous on three fides, is the cadle of Dunolly, once
the refidence of the chieftains of Lorn.

Continue our courfej and, palling wuh difficulty through a very narrow found,
formed by the Il.ui Bi^ach and the main Liiid, arrive in a fine bay. Anchor under the
antient cadle of Djui-diiflage, or Stephen's Mount ; and inilantly receive, and accept,
a mod polite invitation from the owner, Mr. Catnpbcl.

This cdlle is fabled to have been ioundtd by Lwin, a Pididi monarch, cotemporary
with Julius CaMar, naming it after hiiufelf Kvoniuin. In f.id, the founder is unknown,
but it iscertaiidy of great antiquity, and the lird feat of the riclifli and Scottilh princes.
In tlv's place was lojig preferved the famous Hone, the P.illadium of North Britain;
brought, fuys Legend, out of Spain, where it was fird ulVd as a feat of judiceby Ge-
thalus, cocviu with Mofes. It continued here as the coronation chair till the reij>n of
Kenneth the Stconi, v.lvo removed it to Scone, in order to f vure his reign ; for, ac-
cording to the intcription,

Ni faliat fatum, Scoti, quocunqiie local tim
liivcnicnt lapidcm, regiiaii triKutur ibidem.

Mr. Campbe! (htv.ed to me a very pretty little ivory image, found in a ruinous pirt
of the cadle, that was certainly cut in memory of thia chair, and appears !o have been
an in?uguration kulpture. A crowned monarch is repiefented littiug in it, with a
book ill one hand, ccntainii?g the laws of the land, winch he was fweariui^ to o'^
ferve. They never took the oath by kiHine the Bible, but uy holding up the ru''^..
hand ).

• Guthrie, iv. C18.

^ Anoiiymoui Corrcfpondcn*, dati

' 'trier's Tn.]. Ix. 4^7.
:■■'» lilt), Nov. 2yib, 1780.

fENNANl's SECOKD TOUR IN SC0TI,AND.

353

The caflle is fqiiare; the infulc only cit^hty-fcven feet, partly ruiniius, partly habit-
able. At three of tlie corners arc round tuwers, one of ihem projeds very little. The
entrance is towards the fea at prcfent by u ftair-cafe, in old times probably by a draw-
bridge, which iell from a little gateway. 'l"he niafonry appears very ancient, the tops
battlemented. This pile is feated cm a rock, whole fides have been pawd to render it
precipitous, and to make it conform to the Ihape of the calUe.

In 1307 this cadlc was poflefled by Alexamler Macdougal, Lord of Argyle, a friend
to the Knglifli ; but was that year replaced by Robert Bruce, when Macdougal fued for
peace with that prince, and was received into favour *.

I And, about the year 1455, ^^'^ ^° h-Ave been a refidence of the Lord of thellles ; for
here James laft Earl of Douglas, after his defeat in Annandale f, fled to Donald the
Regulus of the time, and prevailed on him to take arms, and carry on a plundering
war againft his monarch James the Second.

At a fmall diltance from the caftle is a ruined chapel, once an elegant building, and
at one end an inclofure, a family cemctry, built in 1740. Oppofite to thefe is a high
precipice, ending abrupt, and turning fuddenly toward the fouth-ea(L A perfon con-
cealed in the recefs of the rock, a little beyond the angle, furprizes friends ftationed
at fome diftance beneath the precipice, with a very remarkable echo of any word, or
even fcntence he pronounces, which reaches the laft diftinft and unbroken. The re-
petition is fingle, but remarkably clear.

Aug. 10. After breakfaft ride along the edge of a beautiful bay, with the borders
fertile in fpots. The bear almoll ripe. Crofs a ferry at Connel, or Conf hull, or the
raging flood, from a furious cataraft of falt-water at the ebb of fpring tides. This
place is the difcharge of the waters of Loch-etive into the fea, where it fuddenly con-
trafts to a fmall breadth ; and immediately above, certain rocks jut out, which more
immediately dirjft the vaft pent up waters to this little ftrait, where they gu(h out with
amazing violence, and form a fall of near ten feet.

Loch-etive runs far up the country, and receives the waters of Loch-aw at Bunaw.
Here is at times a confiderable falmon fifliery, but at prefent very poor. See at a dif-
tance, on the northern bank, the fite of Ard-chattan, a prior/ of monks of Vallis
Caulium, founded, A. D. 1 250, by Duncan Mac-coul, anceftor of the Macdougals of
Lorn. Here Robert Bruce is faid to have held a parliament, but more probably a
council ; for he remained long mafter of this country before he got entire poflfeflion
of Scotland.

A mile from Connel, near the fliorc, is Dun-Mac-Sniochain, the ancient Beregonium,
Borogomum. The foundation of this city, as it is called, is attributed by apocryphal
hiftory to Fergus IL and was called the chief in Scotland for many- ages : it was at bed
luch a city as Caefar found in our ifland at the time of his invafion ; an oppidum, or
fortified town, placed in a thick wood, furrounded with a rampart and fofs, a place of
retreat from invaders \. Along the top of the beach is a raifed mound, the defence
againft a fudden landing. This, from the idea of here having been a city, is ftyled,
Straid-a-mhargai, or market-ftreet ; within this are two rude eredl columns, about fix
feet high, and nine and a half in girth, behind thefe a peat-mofs, on one fide a range
of low hills, at whofe neareft extremity is an entrenchment called Dun-valire. On
the weftern fide of the moral's is an oblong infulated hill, on whofe fummit, the country-
people fay there had been feven towers, ^ could only perceive three or four excavations
of uo certain fornv, and a dike around thtin>

* Barhnur.

t De Ucllo Gallico, lib. v.
VOL. HI,

C. 21.

t Lives of the DouglaCTo, 203.

Z Z

III

■ •'M

5'^ 1

■ \T

.ii.iuwina.jiii .ji«iuaj.iwmjmuiw.ggBgg

S^SSSKS^.-.^

354

pennant's second tour in SCOTI-AND.

In moft parts of the hill are dug up great qiuintitits of difTcrcnt fort^ of pumices, or
fcoriii of diflVrent kinds : of ihcm one is the pumex cinerarius ; the other the P. moUiris
cf Linnjcus ; the lafl very much refcmbling fome that Mr. Banks favoured me witli
from theifland of keland. The hill is doubtlefs the work of a volcano, of which this
is not the only vefligo in North Britain.

Ride on a fine road to Ard-muchnage, the feat of the late Sir Duncan Campbell ; a
very handlbme houfe, and well finidicd. Sir Duhcan, at the age of forty, began to
plant, and lived to fee the cxtenfive plantations in his garden, and on the pidturefquc
hills round his lands, arrive to perfedUon. The country about rifcs into a lofty but
narrow eminence, now finely wooded, extending in a curvature, forming one fide of aa
enchanting bay, the other impending over the fea.

On my return obferve, near the hill of the fevcn towers, a druidical circle, formed
of round ftones placed clofe together. The area is twenty-fix feet in diameter ; and
about ton fett dillant from the cutfide is an creil pillar feven feet high. At fuch (tones
as thefe, my learned friend, the late Dr. William Borlafe *, remarks, might have flood
the officers of the high priefl, to command filencc among the people^ or fome inferior
perfon verfed in the ceremonies, to obferve that none were omitted, by warning the
olliciating priell:, in cafe any efcaped his memory.

Retarn, and lie on board.

Augufl 1 1 . Weigh anchor at fix o'clock in the morning. Sail by the back of
Loch-nel hill, forming a moft beautiful crelcciit, partly cultivated, partly covered witU
wood to the fummit. Land near the north end of the ifle of Lifmore, which is about
nine miles long, one and .a half b)oail,and contains about fifteen hwndred inhabitants f.
It derives its name from Liofmor, or the great garden ; but tradition lays it was ori-
ginally a great deer foreft j and as a proof, multitudes of flag horns of uncommon fixes
are perpetually dug up in the molTes. At prefent there is fcarce any wood ; but the
lelfer vegetables grow with uncommon vigour. The chief produce of the land is bear
and oafs: the firll is raifed in great quantity, but abufed by being dillilled intowhifky.
The crops of oats are generally applied to the payment of rent ; lb that the inhabitants
are obliged for their fubfiftence aimually to import much meal.

The ground has in mofl parts the appearance of great fertility, but is extremely ill-
managed, and much impoveriflied by cxcefs of tillage, and negled of manure. Pit and
rock marie are found here. The whole ille lies on a lime-ftone rock, which in many
places peeps above ground, forming long feries of low (harp lidgcs. No ufe can be
made of this as a manure for want of fuel tobu-ii it. The peat here is very bad, being
mixed with earth ; it mufl firft be trampled with the feet into a confidence ; is thea
formed into fmall flat cakes, and mud afterwards be expofed on the ground to dry.

About a hundred head of cattle are annually exported, which are at prefent remark-
ably fmall : they feem to have degenerated, for I law at Ard-muchnago the fkull of an
ox dug up in this ifland, that was of much larger dimenfions than any now living ia
Great Britain.

liorfes are in this ifland very fliort. lived : they arc ufed when about two or three
years old ; and are oblVrved (bon to lofe all their teeth. Both they and the cows are
hoiifed during winter, and fed on draw.

Otters are Ibund here ; but neither foxes, hares, nor rats. INIicc are plentiful, and
very dedrudlive.

'i'liere ar^: tlirce final I lakes : two abound with fine trout ; the third only with eels.
Variety of the duck kind frequent ihcfe waters during winter.

• Antiq Cornwall. f Or bcntcii 9C0 and icoo examinable pcrfons.

Waits

PENNANT S 3F.C0ND TOUR. IN SCOTLAND.'

3S5

Walk up to a D.nnifh fort : at prefcnt tho height is fcvtntccn feet ; whhin the wall is
a gallery, and round the area a Unit, as in tliat defcribcd in Hay.

Vifit the church, now a mean uiodern building. In tho churchyard are two or three
old tombs, with clymores engraven on ihcni : here is alfo a ) cmarkublii tomb, confining
oF nothing more than a thick log of oak. This I'ubllituto tor a grave-flone mull have
been in this country of great antiquity, there being no word in tiic Erie language to
pxprefs the lall, it not being ftyled Ickbd Utbidb, a grave Jh)h\ but dara^ lUhidJ)^ or a
grave %. On a live rock are cut the radii of a dial, but the index is loft. On another
rock is a fmnll excavated balbn, perhaps one of the rock bafons of Dr. Borlafe, in times
of druidifm ufed for religious purpofes.

'Jhis ifland had been the fite of the biHiop of Argyle : the fee was disjoined from that
of Dunkeld aboul the year 1200, at the rcqueft of John the EnglKhman bilhop of that
diocefe. There are no reliques of the cathedral or the bidiop's houfe, whofe refidencc
was fuppofed to have been latterly in the caflle of Achanduin, on the weft fide of the
ifle, oppofite to Duart in Mull.

The inhabitants in general are poor, are much troubled with fore eyes, and in the
fpring are afilifted with a coftivenefs that often proves fatal. At that feafon all their
provilions are generally confuined, and they are forced to live on flieeps* nulk boiled,
to which the diftemper is attributed.

The itle of Lifmore forms but a fmall part of the parifli : the extent is not to be com-
prehended by an Engliflitnan. From the point of Lifmore to the extremity of Kinloch-
beg is forty-two computed miles, befides nine in Kingerloch. It comprehends this ifle,
Appin Duror, Glenco, Glencreran, and Kingerloch, and contains three thoufand exa-
minable perfons, under the care of one minilter and two miftionaries.

Get on board, and have in mid-channel a moft delightful view: the woods of Loch-
nellj the houfe of Airds ; beyond is the caftle of Ellenftalker, featcd in a Ihtle ifle ; the
country of Appin ; the vaft mountains of Lochaber ; Dunolly, Lifmore, and various
other ifles of rrotefque appears pce *. To the fouth appear the Slate iflands, Scarba,
Jura, ^r.:" Hay ; and to the well, Oranfay and Colonfay.

Sail between Inch and the Mail 'fl< leaving the noted Slate ifland of Eufdale to the
caft, and dole to it Suil and Luing. ci ily the property of the Earl of Breadalbane :
within thefe are the harbours of Eultiale, of Cuain, between Luing and Suil; Bai-driic,
cff Luing ; and below is that of Black-muil bay.

Oppofite to Luing, on the welt, is a groupc of rough little ifles, of \ .^ich Plada and
Beliia-hua arc produftive of flate. In the broad balbn between thefe ! Luing is a
moft rippling tide; even in this calm forces us along with vaft celerii) A violence:
the whole i'uriace difordered with eddies and whirlpools, rifwig firft with furious boil-
ings, driving and vanifhing with the current. Anchor under the eaft fule, beneath tho
vaft mountain of Scarba, an ifland of great height, about five miles long, chiefly covered
with heath; but on this fide are fonie woods, and marks of cultivation. I\lr. Macleane
lives on this fide, and favours ■ ' "-^'h a viiit, and oflers his fervicc to ftiew us the cele-
brated gulph of Corry-vrekiu .ii.^h wo did not wait till morning to fee, as our ex-
pedtations were raifed to the higheft pitch, and we thought of nothing lefs than that it
would prove a fecond Mal-ftrom. We accordingly took a moft fatiguing walk up the
mountain, through heath of an uncommon height, fwarming with grous. We arrived
in an ill hour, for the tide did not fuit, and we faw little more than a very llrong
<:uiTcnt.

* Among them that of Durlsfiiiic-
/ /. S

AuouR

*^'^v

I
t

^•K

I i 'V.'!

.'J t '

ilii

35«

pfnnant's second tour m Scotland,

Aupuft 12. This morning wo take boat, and after rowing two inilos, land and wilk
along the rocks till wi* roach a fit pl.icc for furvcying this phscnonionon The chaunci
between this ifle and Jura is about a mile broad, expofed to the weight of the Atlantic,
which pours in its waters here with great force, their courfe being direded and confined
by the found between Colonfay and Mull. The tide had at this time made two hours
food, and ran with a furious current, great boilings, attended with much foam *, and in
many placf.. <')un?d cohfiderable whirlpools. On the fide of Jura the current daflies,
asisrti.i'j. '« .i.ppole, againfl fome funk rocks. It forms there a moll dreadful
back ride, nh.ch m tempells catches up the vefll-ls that the whirlpools flini^ into it ; fa
that almcil certain dellrudion attends thole that are fo unfortunate as to be forced in at
th> le feafons. It was our ill-luck to fee it in a very pacific (late, and paflabic without the
Icall hazard.

The chief whirlpool lies on the Scarba fide, near the weft end. Mere, as that {kilful
pilot Mr. Murdock Mack( V " ^ed me, it is of various depths, viz. 36, 47, 83 and 9 1
fathoms, and at fi>nu pl.ic -0 unfr.ihoni.iile: the tranfitions fudden, troin the Idler to
the greater depths : the bottom all (harp rocks with vaft chafms between ; and a fa-
thotnlcfs one where the greateft vortex lies, from which, to the eaft -n end of Scarba,
clofe to fliorc, the depth are 13, 9, 1 2.

There is another whirlpool off a little ifle on the weft end of Jura, which contributes
to the horrors of the place. In great ftorms the tides run at the rate of fifteen miles an
hour ; the height of the boilings are faid to be rlreadful, and the whole rage of the wa-
ters unfpcakable. It is not therefore wonderful that there Ihould have hr'vn here a cha-
pel of the Virgin, whofc afliftance was often invoked, for my hillorian t -lys, that {he
worked numbers of miracles, doubtlefsly in favour of diftrefled mariners.

S'rarba contains forty inhabitants. Mr. Mac-leane, the proprietor, refides here.
Whon he favoured us with his company, he came with two of his fons and their tutor;
for in North Britain there is no gentleman of ever l'< '"mail an eltafo, hut Uridly attends
to the education of his children, as the lure fouiioation of tl. u- futi n fortune. A
pcrfiin properly qualihrd and eafily procured at a cheap rate attends in tl • aniily, where
the father ices that jullice is done to them, at far lels expence than if ht lent them to
dill.mt fchofls.

Leave Scarba ; pafs between Nether-Lorn and the ifles of Luing and Suil to he eaft,
and of Tcnuy and Shuna to the well, all inhabited, and the firit almod covered with
excellent corn. In 'I'oracy is an ancient tower once belonging to the great Mac-don.i .J,
who made it his halfwav hunting feat in his progrels from (lantyre to his northern
iflcs; for which reafon it was called Dog caftle; and here he made it a n.oft laudable
ruletr ; "tide til' he had , nt the whole of his revenue collefted in the neighbourhood.
According to the n pnrt \, thefc ifles and part of the neighbouring mainland form a
parift), whofe church is in Suil.

Take boat ; turn at the point of Suil, am carried by a rapid tide through the gut of
Cuan ; vilit tufdale, the noted flate ifland, whole length is about h.df a mile, and com-
pofed en.'irelv of Uate, interfered, and in fome parts covered, with whin-llone, to the
thicknels of fixteen feet: t; • Itratum of flate is thi.tv-lix, dipping quick fouth-eaft to
north-weft. In ord' 1 o be railed, it is at firii; biaded with powder; the j.;. cater pieces
are then divided, a . ' of^ in wheel-barrows, and lalUy fplit into the nierchantdbie

• From m variiii coI<-u.»ii iscailcd Coircbhreacaln, or the fputtcJ or pbiJcd cau!dt<in.
f Forduii, lib. II. c .0.

j Maik by the gentleman fent, io 1760, by order of the General AlTcmbl}', to iufpeft the flate of religion
in the iilaiids, &c. MS:

I a fizcs,

PP.NK WT'S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

357

flzcs, from elglUeen by fou'tt-cn inchefi, to nine hy fix, anJ put on bmrd at the price
ol twenty fliillinjfs piT thuuliUKl. About two millions and a halt" arc fold annually to
England, Norway, C^anaila, and the Will Indies. In the flates are multitudes ot cubic
pyrilte. In one phuc, about fixieen feet above highwater-niark, jud over the flatis, is
a thick bed of fi all fragments, worn fmootii , as if by the adlion of he waves, and mixed
with thtin are multitudts of the common fea fhelis ; a proof of the vail retreat of the
ocean in thefe parts.

There are manv other pood (late quarries in this neighbourhood, as on the iflcs of
Suil, Luing, t)alna-hua, and Kerrera, and fome few oppofili. to them on the coatt of
N' I her Lorn.

The boat takes us the length of the weftern fide of Suil. At the north point, turn
into Clachan Firth, the narrowed (Iniit I ever was in, dividing that ifland from Lorn,
in parts lb contrafted as wruld admit the flinging an arch from fhorc to fhore. The
depth i*; very various : in lome parts fifty fathoms ; in others fo (hallow as to be ford-
able at the ebb of fpring-tides. On the banks of the iflaml and mainland, the ftrata of
ftonc rife in form of walls, of a great height, and not above two feet and a half thick,
extending far, fo as eafily to be miffaken ibr the bounds of an inclofure.

Arrived in the beautiful bay of Ard-maddie, or the height of the wolves. A houfe
fmall,but elegant, Rands in front, and the fitles of the bay high, entirely cloathed with
wood. Here 1 find thekindcll welcome from nu worthy acquaintance, Captain Arclii-
bald Campbell, tenant here to the Earl of Breadalbane, who, with the utmolt friendfhip,
during the voyage charged himlelf with the care of my groom and my horfi s. Here
I alio took leave of Mr. Archibald Thompfon, whofe attention to the objetts of my
enquuies, obliging condudt throughout, and fkill in his profcflion, demand my warmefl
ackno\\led;^ments. Thus ended this voyage of amufemcnt, fuccefsful and fatisfadlory
in every part, unlefs where embittered with refledions on the fufferings of my fellow-
trtatures. Gratitude forbids my filence refpedinLf the kind reception I univerfally met
with ; or the attive ztal of every one to facilitate my purfuits; or the liberal conuiiu-
nication of ev^ry fpecies of information, ufetul or entertaining.

I retired to my chamber, filled with n fleCfions on the various events of my voyage ;
and every fcene by turns prefentcd itft If before my imagination. As loon as my eyes
were doled. I difcovered that " the flumber of the body was but the waking of the
foul *." All 1 nad feen appeared to have been dull and clouded to my apprehenfion,
ferving to evince '• that our waking conceptions do not match the fancies of our fleep f."
I imagined mylllf again gently wa ted down the found of Mull, bounded on each fide
by the former dominions of mighty chieftains, or of heroes immortalized in the verfe of
Qlfian. My bufy fancy was worked into a fpecies of enthufiafm, and for a time it

Bellied forth
The form? of tMngs iinkiiouti;
Tur;i<.U them to (hape, and fjiive lo airy nothing
A ioc-tl habitation and a name;.

A figure, drefied \n the garb of an ancient warrior, floated in the air before me : his
target and his clyinore feemed of no comtnon fizc, and fpoke the former llrengih of
the hero. A graceful vigour was apparent in his countenance, notwithilanding time
had roubed him of part of his locks, and given to the remainder a venerable hoarinefs.
As loon as lie had fi.xed my attention, he thus feemed to addrefs himfelf to me :

* Brown's Rcligio Medici,

t Ibid.

liia

j'li

" Stranger,

358

PBKNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

•' Stranger, ihy purpoft' is not unknown to n^" ; 1 liavo attcmlc^l thee (liulfiblc) in
nil thy VDViijiic ; Ikivc lympathifi'd with tlicc in tli :• • lin^; (ear at tlic inifcry of my oncc-
lovoJ country ; ami fi;^Iis, liicli as a fpirit can emit, luvc been laithful echoes to thofo
of thy corporeal frame.

•' Know, that in the days of my exigence on earth I pofTeniHl an ample portion of the
tra£t thou fetll to the north. 1 was the dread of the ncij^hbouring chieftains ; the de-
light ol niy people, their protedor, their friend, fluir father: no injury ilicy cwt re-
ceived palled unrevenged ; for no one excelled me in conferring bcnriits r)n my clan, or
in repaying iitlultson their enemies. A t.ioufand of my kindrt-d followed me in arms,
W'herefoever I commanded. Their obedience was to n\c implicit, for my word was to
them a law ; my name the moll facred of oaths. I was (for nothing now can be con-
cealed) li^rce, arrogant, defpotic, irritable : my pallions were flrong, my anger trcmcn«
(lous ; yet 1 had the arts of conciliating the atl'ei\ioiis of my peijple, and »s s the darling
of a numerous brave. They knew the love I bore iluin : they faw, on a thoufand oc-
cafionc, the llroiig' (I proofs of my alTedion. In the day of battle I have covered the
weak with my lliield, and laid at tiiy feet tlieir hollile antagonilts. The too grateful
vail.il, in roiurn, in tlie next conillit, has Iprung lefore me, and received in his own
bofom the Ihaft that has been levelkd at mine. In retreats from ovcr-powering num.
li -rs, I was ever lall in th « field. 1 alone have kept the enemy at bay, and purcliafed
fafety for my people with a hundred wounds.

" In the Ihort intervals of peace my hall was filled with my fri-^ndb and kindred : my
hofpitality was ec}u d to my deeds of arms ; anti hecatombs of beeves and deer covered
my rude luit welconv^ tables. My neareit relations lat next to me, and then fucceeded
the braveff of my cl:in; and bclmv them, the emulous youth leaned forward to hear
the gallant recital of our pall actions. Our bards rehearfed the valiant deeds of our
j.',reat anccRors, at\d inflamed our valour by the fublimity of their verfe, accompanied
\4ith the infpiring found of tlie ear-piercin;.'- j)(.el)irec!its.

*♦ The crowds of people that attended at an humble diilancc partook of my bounty :
thtir families were my care ; for I beheld in their boys a future fupport of the greatnefs
if my houfe, an hereditary race of warriors.

" My numerous kindred lived on lands the gift of my diftant progenitors, who took
care to plant their children near the main llock ; the cions took firm root, and proved
in aftcr-tinus a grateful fhelter to the parent tree, againft the fury of the fevered florms.
'Ihcfe I coniiderid, not as mercenary tenants, but as the friends of good and of adverfe
fortune. 'I'heir tenures were cafy, their duchas * inviolate : I found my intcreft inter.
woven with theirs. In fupport of our mutual welfare, they were enabled to keep • be-
coming hofpitality. They cherifhcd their neighbouring dependents j and could receive
my vilits in turn with a well-covered board.

" Strong fidelity and warm fricndfliip reigned among us; dirturbed perhaps by the
momentary gufls of my pafllons : the lun that wai'med them might experience a fliort
obfcurity ; but the cloud foon palTed away, and the beams of love returned with im-
proved advantage. I lived beloved and revered : I attained the fulnefs of years and of
j;lory ; and finifhed my courfc, attended to my grave with the full torankb of my la-
menting people.

" My progeny for a time fiipporfed ihe great and wild magnificence of the feudal
reign. Huir diilance from court unfortunately prevented tliem from knowing that

• From dulliaich, native ci Miitry 'I'licy Iirld tlieir farms at a fm.i!l rnit, from father to fon, by a k'lid
of prifcrilicd tight, wliich the HIgl.laiiilu* calkJ dthhat. Thii tenure, in the feudal tinci, watctletmcd
(acred audiiiviuUblc.

they

PENNANT 8 SECONn TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 359

they hnd a fuparlor; and their ideas of loyalty were r.gul.tcd only by the rcCpift or
attention paid to their fancied independency. Their /auals were happy or inlfcrabie,
accon'ing to thedifpofition of the little monarch of tl. ti.' c. Two centtiricH, from my
days, had elapfid before their greatnefs knew its final period. TUc (hackles of tlie
feudal govcrnmont were at length flruik off, and pollihly liappinefji was annoiinccil to
the me.inelk vallal. The target, thf dirk, atul the clyniore, too long abided, were
wrelled from our hands, and \vc were bid to Icarti the arts of peace, to IprcuJ the net,
to (hoot the (hutlle, or to cultivate the |.'roiind.

" The mighty chieftains, tlie brave and difintereded heroes of old times, by a tnofl
violent and lurprifing transformation, at once funk into rapacious landlords ; determined
to compenfate the lols of power with the increafe of revenue ; to exchange the wartti
afFef^ioiis of their people for fordid trad). Thi ir vifits, to thole of their forefathers,
are like the furveys of a cruel land-jobber, attended by a lot of quick figlned vidturef,
fkilled in pointini.; out the mod exquidte methods of oppreflion, or to inflruiSk them in
the art of exhaulHng their purfes of'fums to be waflod in diflant lands. Like the taik-
niafters of Egypt, they require them to make brick without draw. They leave them
in their primaeval poverty, uninflrufleil in any art for their future Ivipport ; deprived
of the wonted refourccs of the hofpitality of their lord, or the phntiful boards of his
numerous friends, Tht^n' experi' nco an indantanfous defortion; arc (lung at once into
a new date of life, and demand the fodering hai»d as much as the mod infant colony.
■When I hover over our vales, I fee the fame nakednels exid, the fame mifery in habita-
tion, the fanic idle difpoiition. Would 1 could have leen the fame fpirit and vigour as
in days of yore But the powers of their fouls are funk with oppreflion, and tliofe of
their bodies lod with wart. Th y look up in defpair at our deferted cadles; and, worn
out with famine a'ul dif afe, I'.rop into an unnoticed grave.

" The ties of adldion anionglt relations are now no more ; no diduidlion is at pre-
fent made b'. twixt proximity of blood and the mod didant dranger. Intereft alone
creates the preference of man to man. The thoufands that with joy expedled the return
of their cl.ieftain, now retire with fullen grief into their cottages ; or, in little grouper.

No vafTal now fprings to receive the
- wiflies to plant his own in the bofom

look of the warriors and friends

progeny : feature and habit are

ilous by adopting the idle fa-

; ! loft to all the fweet alTedions

.r^ 11 ;> of your travels ? What arts

exprcls their rage in curfes both loud and dc
weapon levell'. d at the bread of the lord, but
of the opprcHbr.

" Ihe iicient native, full of the idea n
of his youth, is lod in ailmiration at »hT . v
changed; the one cfl'eminattd, the o''--)-
fliions of foreign climes : lod tr the I'-vc < il
of patriarchal life! What then, may 1 L

have you brought home, that will lerve 10 brm^ .ubfidence to your people ? To re-
compencc them for your drafted revenues? W.iat to clothe the naked ? To feed the
hungry ? To furni.'h thein with more coniicrtablc protection from the inclemency of
the weather ? They require no great matters ; a fmall portion of raiment, a little meal.
With fail comparifon they learn, tliat chieftains dill exid, -who make their people their
care ; and with envy they hear of the improving date of the vaflals of an Argyle, an
Athol, a BreaJalbanc, and a Bute.

" Return to your country : inform them with your prefence ; redore them to the
laudable part of the ancient manners ; eradicate the bad. Bring them indrudlors, and
they would leirn. Teach them arts adapted to their climate; they would brave the
fury of our fcis in lilhing. Send them materials for the coarfer manufatSturcs; they
would with patience (it down to the loom j the\- would weave the fails to waft your

navies

■ii

,i*^

360 Tr\NNANT*S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

navies to vidory ; and part of them rejoice to fliaiv the glory in the inoR liiflaiit
combats. Soled a portion of them for the toils of the ocean : iiuike your levies, en-
roll them; difcipline ithem under able veterans, ind lend aninially to our port;,
the fmaller vcflels of your tremendous navy. Tri.it them with i'words, and a fmall re-
taining pay. If you have doubts, elhiblilh a place <i\jn>ics, in vacant times, the depo-
fite of their weapons, mder proper garrifon. They would fubmit to any reftridions ;
and think no rellraints, founded on the fafety of tlie whole, an infringement of liberty,
or an invafion of property. Legiflature has given tliem their manumillion ; and tlu-y
no longer confider themfelves as part of the live (lock of their chieftain. Draft ih;>iu
to diftant climes, and they will facrifice their lives in the ji'il caufe of government with
as much zeal as their fore-fathers did under the lawlefs diredion of my valiant ancellors.
Limit only the time of their warfare ; fweeten it only with the hopes of a return to tl -
native country, and they will become willing fubditutes for their Southern brethiui.
Occupied in the foft arts of peace, thofc (liould extend your manufadures ; and thefe
would defend your commerce. Perfuade their governors to experience their zeal ; and
let courtly favour rife and tall with their adions. IIav(> not thoufands in the late war
proved their lincerity ? Have not thoufands expiated with their blood the folly of re-
bellion, and the crimes of their parents ?

" If you will totally negled them ; if you will not refide among them ; if you will
not, by your example, inllrud them in the fcience of rural ceconomy, nor caufe thun
to be taught the ufcful arts : if you cannot obtain leave for them to devot»' themfelves to
the fervice of their country, by deeds of arms ; do not at leall drive them to dcfpair,
by opprelfion : do not force them into a dillantland, and neceflltate them to feek tran-
quillity by a meafure which was once deemed the punilhment of thomoft atrocious crimi-
nals. Do not be guilty of treafon againll your country, by depriving it of multitudes jf
ufeful^nu umbers, whofe d fence it may too loon want, againfl our natural enemies. Do
not create a new fpecies of difafledion ; and let it not receive a more- exalted venom, in
a continent replete with the mod dangerous kind. Extremes of change are always the
word. How dreadful will be theonce-exillent folly of Jacobitifm, transformed into the
accurfed fpirit of political libertinifm !

" Leave them (if you will do no more) but the bare power of cxiftence in their na-
tive country, and they will not envy you your new luxuries. Wade your hours in the
lap of dillipation ; refign yourfelf up to the fafcinations of Acrafia; and fport in the
bower of blifs. Cover your tables with delicacies, at the expencc of your famidied
clans. Think not of the wretches, at thofe feafons, lead your appetite for the /jort
ifcuvrcs be palled, and you feel a momentary remorfe for death occafioned by ye, ye
thoughtlcfs deferters of your people ! With all my failings, I exult in innocence of fuch
crimes ; and felicitate myfelf on my aerial date, capable of withdrawing froni the fight
of miferies I cannot alleviate, and of oppredions I cannot prevent."

DOWNING, to

Lancader *,
Hefs-Bank,
C'anmel lands,
Cartmel,

ITINERARY.

Miles.

Mil.'*.

Ulverdone,

Whitrig iron-mines, and back to

Jlverdone,

I I

Hawkfhead,

Graithwaite,

• Vide Itinerary of Tour, 1 769.

Boulncfs,

PEKNAHt'« SECOND TOUR IN SCOTtANP.

Boulncfs,

Atnblefide,

Kefwick 16, Ormathwaite 3,

Cockermouth (by Bridekirk)

Whitehaven,

Workington,

Mary-port,

Annan,

Ruthwel, and back to Annan,

Spring-kcld,

Bumfwork-hill,

Hoddain 3, Murray thwaite i,

Comlongan,

Caerlaveroc,

Dumfries,

l.inciuden, and back to Dunifries,

Drunilanrig,

Morton-caltlo 4, Durifdeer 2,

Drunilanrig 3,
Lead-hills,

Mount Stuart, in the iflc of Bute,

Cil-chattan hill,

Kingarth manfe 2, Rothcfay 5,

St, Ninian's-Point,

Tnch-Mamoc,

I.jch-Tarbat,

I-och-Ranz:a,

15i-odicca(llo,

I'in-uiac cuil'.s cave, and back to

BrocMc,
Kirk-niichel, Dunrion,and attain

to Bmdic,
Lainlafli ido,
Craii; of Ailla,
('aaipbrltowii,
Kiikcnan caves, and back,
Ibr,

(ii,;lui ifl'-,
Siitall illc;i of J.;ra,
Ardlin,
P.ij>s oi Jura,

VOL. Ml.

361

Miles.

Allanby,

Wigton,

Carlifle,

Warwick, Corbie, and back to

»3

Carlifle,

Netherby,

Langhohnc, and back to Netherby,

SCOTLAND.

! ,

Miles.

- _, * ' ' < . -

Miles.

Douglas,

Lanerk,

Hamilton,

G lafgow,

Greenock, and back to G lafgow.

Cruickfton-cadle,

Paifley 2, Renfrew 2, G lafgow 5,

Drummond,

Loch-Lomond,

Buchannan,

G lafgow.

9
'3

Greenock, by land,

$•1

VOYAGE.

Miles.

Miios.

Port Frecbaim, in the iflc of Ilay,

Brorarag,

->
^

Killarow,

Sunderland,

Sanncg cove, and back to Sunder-

land,

Fort Free-bairn,

Oranfay,

Killoraii, in Colonfay,

Port (.)lamfay.

Jona,

Cannay, **

Loch-Sgriofart, in Rum,

Point of Slate, in Skie,

IVIac-kinnun's cafllo.

Sconlcr,

'I'alyikir,

■ i8

Loch-Biacadalo,

Crofs the loch,

Duavctran,

Kin^;iburi;h,

Dun-

^ !«

1^'

'■1 11'

jl-

KaHMMtt*.

36a

pennant's SECANIi TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Dun-Tuilm,

Loch-Broom,

Little Loch Broom>

Dundonnd,

Loch-marce, the F.aft end,

Loch-maree, the Weft end,

Pol. ewe, I , Gairloch, 6,

Mac-innon'scaftle,

G!en-elg,

Glen beg, and back to GIen-e!g,

Loch-Juni, extremity of,

Arnifdale,

Itte Oran£ty,

Miles.

Milts

»5

Ard-na-murchan point,

Tobir-moire bay, in Mull,

»5

Aros,

Caftle-Duart,

Dunftaffage,

Beregonium,

Ard-muchnage,

Dunftaffage,

Lifmore,

e!g, 6

Scarba,

Ardmaddie,

Circuit round Suil, &c.

»5.

yf 7017? IN SCOTLAND, ^c.^PART Ih

ADVERTISEMENT.

THIS fccond part brings my journies of 1769 and 1772 to a conclufion. I ber
leave to return thanks to the fL'veral gentlemen who gave thcmfolvcs the trouble of fiip-
plying me with materials, and with variety o* remarks and (bictures that have ferved
to corrtdt the many miftakes I may have committed. 1 hold myfelf peculiarly indebted
to

— Frazer, Kfq. of Invcrnefs ;

'Ihe Riv. Mr. Mac-intyre, of Glenurchic ;

The Rov. Dr. Fergufon, of Moulinci

'Ihc Rev. Dr. BilVet, of Logiorait;

John Machenzie, Kfq. of Delvin ;

Mr. Thomas Marlliall of Perth ;

Dr. Piunmiond ;

The Rev. Mr. Duff, of Tibbirmoor j

The Rev. Mr. Scott, of Meigle ;

John Haliburton, Efq. of Dundee ;

The Rev. Mr. Bell, of Aberbrothic ;

Bat rick Scott, Efti. of Roflie ;

Mr. Alexander Chriftie, late Provoft of Montrofe j

Robert Barclay, Efg. of llriej

Profeflbr Watfon of St. Andrews ;

George Skene, Efq of C.arefton ;

Mr. James Gillies, of Brechin ;

George Chalmer.'!, Llq. of Dumfcrlinej

and fuperlativcly to

Mr. George Allan, of Darlington.

1 muft

■ijr:

TENNAKl's SECOND TO»R IN SCOTLAND.

363

I mufl apologize fo the public for fo haflily paffing over two places of which ampler
iiccoiints might have been expcdcil. I have lived fo long in Chefler that a moro
"niinute hiilory of it ought to have been given ; but after all, it would have reomod tri-
vial, on the apprarancc of the labours of the Rev. Dr. Foot Gower, which the Public
has very long expcfled. I fliall rejoice on a future occafion to have opportunity of
drawing from fo rich a magazine, a variiiy of materials for a farther elucidation of the
refpcftabic capital of fo refpeftable a county.

I wilh I could afllgn as good a rcafon for my worfo than negleifl: of the venerable
I.incohi. When I pafled through it in 1769, I muft have been planetdlruck, not to
have obferved the amazing beauties of the external as well as internal architec-
ture of the cathedral. I could not flille my remcrfe. Lall year I haftened thi-
ther; and with all figns of contrition, made the amende /jononil^/v before the great door.
I trull that my penitence was accepted by the whole chapter. A recantation of the
little rcfped I payed to its external elegance will be a fubjcd of a future volume, a
Tour through the eaftern parts of the Mercian kingdom.

Downing, Mardi, I, 1776. THOMAS PENNANT.

For numbers of corrcclions in the prcfont edition I am obliged to friendly ftriftures I
received from Sir David Dalrymple, Baronet, of Hails. T. P.

Downing, Deo 2f), 1790.

Part II.

AUGUST 15. Pais this day at Ard maddie. The houfo conunands a beautiful
view of the bay, and tiie iflc of Suil, where the parifli church and the manfe of the
minider of the parifh are place), accellible at all times, by rcafon of the narrownefs of
the channel of Claclian. This tratt is hilly, finely v.'ooded near the houfe, and on the
aiijacent part of the ihore ; contains about eleven hundred examinable pcrfons, and
abounds with cattle. A quarry of white marble, veined with dull red, is found on the
well (ide of the bay.

'I his parilh lies iji Nethcr-Lorn, a diftrict of the vaft county of Argyle. Thefe di-
vifions {tor there are three Lorns) were, in the time of Robert Bruce, poffefled by the
Mac-iiOugals, opponents of that prince ; paffcd from them to the Stuarts ; but in the
tiftetnih century were transferred * into the family of the Campbells, by the mar-
riages of three co-l.tireilcs, dau.;hfcrs of the la(l Stuart, Lord cf Lorn. Sir Colin of
Glt.iurchie, furnamed the black, took to his (hare Ifabel the eldefl ; difpofed of the
fccond t:> his half brother Archibald ; and referved for his nephew (Colin, firft Earl of
Argyle, then under his guardianihip) the youngcll Marr.tte Na Nhaghn, or Margaret
the Rhymer.

'1 his county was part cf tlie ancient Ergadia, or Jarghatl, or land of the weftern
Caledonians, which extended as far as Gairloch, in the Ihire of Rofs. It formed part
of the dominions of the old Scots, whofe kingdom reached from the Firth of Clyde,
along the whole coalt, even as far as Dunglby head in Caithnefs f.

Augull 14. Leave Arn-maddio. Ride along a fme road, for feme time by thu
iide oi an arm ot the lea, called, from the plenty of Ihells, Loch-fuchan. Go by a

MS. Hill, of the Campbells.

f Dotflor Mac[)heilor, J34.

A 3

heap

'}• •

■ '-^

i -

-lit

]:'

,.^

•i? '

~>fj

i' ■

'■'¥1

364 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

heap of ftoncs, called Cairn- Alpine, becaiifc from hence the hodiosof the Aipiniatlc--, or
lucceirors of thiit mon;irch, wore eniixirked for iiiteraient in the rnccJ ;.;rounil of Juna.
After quitting thi.s Idch arrive in a barren trad of bhick heathy land, enlivened now
and then with fonv- pretty lakes. Reach the banks of I, och- Aw, where that fine
water is contracted to the breadth of a])out ihree quarters of a mile. Am wafted over
in a horfe boat ; land on a fpor (lyled Port-fonnachan, and after aiwiit ten miles ridini^,
pafs between hills, finely planted with feveral forts of trees, Inch as Wtynioiiih pinct, ike.
and roach tho town and caille of Inveraray *, ieated on a fmall but beautiful plain, of
the fide of I-och-Fino, This had !on;; been the feat of the Campbells. It was inhabited
about the latter end of the fourteenth century by Colin, furnamod Jonjrailach, or the
W^ondcrful, on account of his marvellous exploits ; and, I may add, his odd whims :
among which, and not the 'ealf, may be reckoned the burning of his houfeat Inveraray
on receivini.;; a vilit from the O'Neilesof Ireland, that hemijjht have pretence to eiiter-
lain his illudrious gueils in his magnificent field equipage. The great tower, which
was ftanding till very lately, was built by the black Sir C'olin, for his nephew, the firft
Earl of Argyle, at that time a minor f. I do not difcovcr any date to afcortain the time
of its foundation, any further tlian that it was prior to the year 1480, the time of Sir
Colin's death. The power of the family, and the diilicult approach to the place, pre-
lerveti it from the i".lult of enemies, excepting in two inlhmces : in December, 1644,
amidll the fiiows of this fevere climate, the enicrprifing Montrol'e jri'ired down his
troops on Inveraray, tliroUj^h ways its chieftain thou ',!it impervious. The Marquis of
Argyle made his elcape in a liitle filhing boat, and left his pcoplo to the mer.ilefs wea-
pons of the invaders, who for a twelvemonth carried fire and 1 word ihrougli the whole
Campbel race, reta.iating, as is pleaded |, the fimilar barbarities of its leader.

After the unfortunate expedition of his Ion, in 16S5, this place and people ex-
perienced a frefh calamity : another clan, deputed by the govormnentto carry deflruc-
tion I'.roughout the name, was lot Hip, armed with the dreadful writ of fire and fword,
to ad at difcretion among an unhappy people j feventeen gentlemen of the name were
inftantly executed. On the fpot is erefted a column, with an iiifeription, commemo-
rating, viih a moderation that docs honour to the writer, the ju.iicc of the caide in
which hi:, relation fell.

In 17 15, Arrhibald, Duke of Argyle, then Earl of Hay, colledod a few troops in
this place, in order to prevent the rebels from becoming mailers of lo important a pafs,
through which they mighc have led their forces to Glalgow, and from thence into the
north of England. General Gordon approached within a finall dillance, reconnoitred
it, and adi'.ally cut fafdnes to make the attack ; but was deterred from it by the de-
termined appearance of the garrifon.

The figure of thf magnificent bridge over the Aray is engraved by Mr. Pennant.
That tine llrud'.ire, built at the expenceof go\ennent, and deflroyed by the violent au-
tumnal flood of this year.

The portraits in the cafUeare few; of them two only merit notice. The firfl is a
h'^ad of the Maiquis of Argyle, his hair Ihort, his drofs black, with a pi, "in white turn-
over. A diiliiiguifheJ pcrion during the rci;/,n of Clinrl. s I. and the confequont uuirpa-
tioii. A n;m, as hisoun fathor llyled him, of crait and fubtihy. In !iis heut no friend
to the rcyal cauf'\ temporizing according to the complexion of the times ; yielding an

• In ( III', Inner aoro.

f In tlif ijuai t') tiiiti.in of the Tour, I "^9, is a print, f;ip|)ofti! to !)c that of ''lO olil cndlc, copitJ (mm
ririe iiirco'bccl witll ili ra.iitrj but '.h- Gordons claim ii as a v.t.v ot Ci«l.'c-Ccldw'ii, l!ii feat of lli'.ir
chieftaiiij. ; MoutroJi.'. War-, jj. \y

b hearty

pennant's 3HC0N0 TOUR IN SCOTl.ANE).

3^5

hearty but fecret concurrence with the clififtVftcd powers, and cxtenJinr; a fer^ned and
timid aid to the fliacklt'd nn aUy of Charles II. when he cntniftpcl himftlt" to his northern
i'uhiicts, in if' 50. At all limes providina; j)lL"aj of merit with both parlirs, appanntly
linc^rc with the iiliupirs unly. With tlicm he took v.n aclive part * during their plcni-
tu 'e of power, y t at fird chiiined onlv prote(^liin, freedom, and payment of his debts
due from the l''.i.i;li!!i parliament f- Mis intcreft feeins to have been conflantly in view.
While Ch.iVicf: was in hi;, hands he received from that penetrating prince a promifToiy
note lor great honours and greaf emoluments |. He is charged with encouraging his
people in various :.ds of murder and cruelty § ; but the provocations he had received
by the horrible lavages of Montrofe, may perhaps CAtenuate retaliation nn liieh of his
neighbours, who, for any thing that appeal's, partook of the excefles lie is charged
alio v.'iih poiTeHing himielfof the cllatts of tliofe who were put to death by his au-
thority ; a charge not repelled in his fine defence on his trial. His generohty in de-
clining to take an open part in the piofecution of his arch enemy Montrofe, would
have done him great honour, h.ad he not meanly p'aced liiinfelf in a window, to iee
the falKn hero pafs hi a cart to receive jud"^nuin [), On the reiioration, he fell a
victim to his n-.nnes. It v.'.s intcni'ed lli",t he llicuki undergo ti.e lame ignominious
death, which was ;;fter\vards chang. d to iliat of bJiea.iiau. " I e.nlJ, ;lays he,) die

like a R ;man, but 1 cbcofe r-lh^r to die like a C'hiidian.'

e u .1 w

iih he

roi.ui ; 111

ought to

hks hill moments with iruth exculpating himlelf iVum having any coieern in the uiur-
ih.er oi his Rosa! M.JLr; calming liis conicicpce with the opinion, tha.t his criminal
eonpliances were but \\\c epidemic dileaie and iault of the tim.s. His guilt of irea-
Ibn was iiuiifputable ; but the ad of grace in 1641, arid the otlier in 165
hav.' been his lecr.rities iron; a capital punifhment.

Here is alio a Iiead of ills fen, tb-e Farl of Argyle, a fteady, virtuous, but unfor-
tunate chan.ijter. l'"in!i lo iils tridl ihrough all the misforumes of his Royal Mailer,
(diaries I. W;is apij/einted colonel of his guards in 1650, but i'eorned to receive
his commilHon from the tyrannical llates ot his country, aiivl infilled on receiving-
it from his Majeity rdone. Neither the difeait: at Uunbar, or at Woreeller ab-atcd his
zeal ii^r the (klperate caufe ; lie betook himlelf to liie Highlands, and f r a long time
rehltetl the ui'urping povvcis, notv ithitaiulhig he w.s call oil', and his adherents ileclared
traitors by the z.alous Marquis, his father^. Sullered, after his fubmilhon to the
irrehllib e t\ranny of the tiu;-s, a lojig imprifonment His rcleafe, at the reiioration,
fubjcckd him but to friHi troidiLs ; ingratituvic f'.ems to have been the fird return to
his ferviees. A bare recital of his fnccel's with the King, in repelling certain injuries
d<jne him, was en'itled Leaiing-making, or creating diiienfions between his Majefty
and his fubj(.t^^ For this, by the LScottiih lavs', he was condemned to lofe his head : a
fentence too uiijull to be permitted to be put into execution. After a long imprifon-
ment, \ias nllor.cl to favour, to his irrtvu.e, and to the title of Karl. In all his adions
he prelerved a patriotic, yet losa! modc;ation ; but in 1681, delivering in an explana-
tion of an oa.ili he was to take, as a ti'li not to atlcmpt any alteration in church or
Hate*", lie was a^aiii liiigraced, t!i.J,anvl a Icct nJ time conde.nned ; and the infamous
fcnteiiee would h (vl- been exi cuieJ, had he mt elcaped fix in the poss'er of his enc-
nii(.s. In . 685, in c(nKert with the Duke of Mwnmouth, he made a fatal attempt to
reitore the hberti.s of his couiitry, then invaded i y James JI. He tailed in the delign,
and -"y. put to death on his termer fetitencc.

• Wliilrln:!;o, (;f'!, 5^7.
j "-tulf Trials, ii I 17
*• yiatc Tiials, iii. ^^t.

f Tl'.e f iiic, J 29.

CaiU', IV.

I Eiogr. Br ii. 1(50. (Edit. 174^* )
^ V\ liili.lu;:kc, 563.

\66

pennant's second tour in SC<JTLAND.

On the day of execution he eat his dinner, and took his afternoon's nap with his ufual
compofure. faUing with a cahnnefs and conllancy fuitable to the goodnefs of his lif(j.

Jull before he kfc the prifon, his wife, a frugal lady, alk^d him for the golden but-
tons he wore in his fleeves, left the executioner (hould get them. *' Is this a time for
fuch a requeft ?" fays the brave Earl. He afcended the fcalfold, and then took, them
out and ordered them to be delivered to his Countefs.

A little before his death he coinpofed his epitaph, I think (lili to be feenin the Grey,
fryar's church yard, Edinburgh. The vcrfes are rather to be admired, as they 'hewtd
the ferenity of hU mind at that awful period, than for the fmoothnds of the numbci-.s ;
but ihe Latin tranflaiion, by the Rev. Mr. Jamifoa of Glafgowj cannot but be acceptable
to every reader of tafte:

Audi, tiofpct, quicunque vcni',«, ttimuliimqiic rivllls,

Et roirati* qii.ili ctimine t'jicliis erain.
Non nie cninfii liubct, non mc ma'.iis abAulit eiror,

Va vitiihii nullum, mc pt'pulit patiia.
Solus atnor paii'i'x, vciique iinmcnfa cupido

Difriicla-. jiiflu fiiiTKie tela m.'.;uii.
OppriTior, cii ! rtdic'iS; vi ful . it (lauJt- meoiiim,

HoftibiH c*t ixvh virtima tern . cada
Sit lici-t liic iioftcr labor itritus, h:<Mtl Drus 3.qtiui

DcfpicicC popiilum f«cii!a cu^d] fuum.
Namquc alius veiiiit talii nuluiiil''^ ortui

Qiii totits nipiuni tine btahit opui.
Sat n.iFii credo !qu:imvi< en ui ^.iifc fccctur)

Hinc pctur ar'.hcrci lucida tempia puli.

Thou, patrciiger, vvl-.o fhalt Inv^ fo mui.Ji time.
As view my i>iavi', an ! a(k «liat was my ciimc :
Ko iliiln of trror, n i black vices' bund.
Did mc cr)m]>cl to K:ive in. ii ilivc land
I.ovc (o my couiitiy, tiutb condtmii'd to die,
Did forte iry bands torgot'ti) aim< to liy.
Moie troni friends' fiaud nu tail pioceedul hilh
Than foes, tho' iluice they did .ntrempt my dratH.
0.1 n.y dcfign tlu)' Providnu-e did frown,
Yet (I'.d, at lall, will fuitly raifi hit own.
Anotlier hjnd «ii|i more fuccefsful Ipted,
Shall raife the lemnaiit, bruifc the ferpcni's liead.

The line woods and cafcados at Efachoflen mufl not pnfs unnoticed ; nor the fert.'ic
Tract of corn-land between it and the fea ; nor the deer-park, called Beauchamp, with
j's romantic i.,lons ; ni>r the lake Du-locli, noar the loot of Glenfliicra, a frefli water,
communicating witli I,och-fme, which receives into it falmon, fea trout, tluunders,
and even herrings, fo that the family, during the feafons, fmd it a never-failing refer,
voir of flj.

The tu.iny * fr 'qucntsthis and fweral other branches of the fea, on the wcftern coafl
during the Icafcr. oi hi-nings, wliich they purluc: the Scotch call it the Mackerel,
llure, or Oor, fiom it."! enormous liz., it btiii.^ the largcll of the genus. One that was
taken oil Inveiaray, when I was there i.i 1769, weighed between four ;'nd live hundred
p<')unds. I hefo li(h arc taken by a hook, baited with a herring, and, notwithllandin ;
their vaft bulk, ii)on lole their Ipirit, anl tamely fiibmit to their l"ati\ I'heir capture is
not attended to as much as it merits, for tliey would prove a chi,np and uholcfouio

• Dr. '/..) \. iii. No. 133. tab. jz.

food

pennant's second Tour, in scoTi-and. 3^7

food to the poor. The few that are caught are cut in pieces, and either fold frcfh, or
fiiltcd in caiks. Tunnies are the great fiipport of the convents in the countries that
bound the Mediterranean fea, where they fwarm at Rated feafons, particularly beneath
the great promontories of Sicily, theThunnofcopia * of the ancients, hccaufe watchmen
vere placed on them to obferve the motions of the tunnies, and give fignals of their
approach to the fifhcrinen. In Scotland they arrive only in fmail herds of five or fix,
arc difcovercd by their playing near the furfacc, and by their agility and frequent leaps
out of the water.

In the midft of the Duke's cftate, not far from the caflle, is a traft of about a hun-
dred a year value, the property of the Earl of lircadalbane f > a gift of a chieftain of
this houfc loan ancellor of his Lordfliip, in order to maintain the v.id train of followers
tliat attended on the great in feudal days : fo that, whcnevc-r the owner of Taymouth
paid his relpefts to his Lord in Inveraray, the fuitc might be properly accommodated ;
the difficulty c{ fupplying fo vaft an addition to the family with furage might be tb-
viated, and quarrels prevented b.'tween two luch little armies of retainers.

Aug. 1 5. Return north, and reach Cladich, a village on the banks of Loch-aw, fo
named from Evah, beliefs of the country about the year ic66, when the name was
fn-fl changed from that of Loch cruachan. 1 have here the ploalure of meeting Mr.
Macintyre, minillcr of Clachan-dyfart, in the beautiful vale of Glcnurchie H'' coa-
duQs mc to a cairn, in which had been found the alhes perhaps of feme ancient hunter,
and the head of a deer, probably buried with them, from the opinion, that the de-
parted fpirit might ilill be delighted with its favourite employ during the union with
the body j

Kiidcm fi.'t]iiicur teliure repodos.

The cuflom of burning the dead was common to the Caledonians as well as the Gauls \.
ijoth were attentive to the fecurity of thofe poor remains ; thought a Hewlett, imi^iety,
and the Violation of them the greatell ad of enmity The Highlanders to this day re-
tain a faying, derived from this very remote cudom. If th. y vouK! . xprefs the malice
of an enemy, they would te'l him that was it in his power " ho v\ouId uifli to fee their
alhes floating on the water: Dl)itr,^e In mo luaib leVi/gc."

Take boat, and vifit Inch-hail, a liule ifle, on which had been a cell of CiflcrcIanF,
dependent on Diinkeld. Amidd the ruins of the church are fome tombs oF rude
fculpture; among others, one of a Campbel, of Inveravv, of uncommon workmanfiiip
indeed !

Pafs under Fraoch Elal, a fmall but lofty ifland tufted with trees, with the ruins of a
fortrefs appearing above.

A little higher to the north opens the difcharge of the lake ; a narrow ftrait, flag-
ged on each iiJe wuh woods. I rum hence, after a turbulent courfe of three miles, a
feries of cataracts, the water drops into Loch Ltiv.\ an arm of the fea.

On the fide of this 11 rait is a military road leading from Dalmalic to Bunaw ; and
near it is the cave of Mac I'haidan, a chieftain, who, taking p;'.rt againft his country
with I\dw. L was purfued and flain in this retreat by the hero Wallace.

Vilit Kilchurn cadle, a ma,;nilicent pile, now in ruins, (eated on a low ifle, near the
fouthern border of the lake, \\ hole original name was Elan kei'-guhtrn. The lortrit
was built by Sir Colin Campbvl, Lord of Lochuw, who died, aged 8 , in 1480 : others

• Strabo, lib V Ojipiiiii. HiIiiiK lib. iii 6^8.

•I It liir. lai'Iy bini •. xi.iiai ui''' ' v L ;r.l I'ri.ul.ilbatve, fo nocor raodato tbe Diikf.

* t'uiii moituis c:i!r..irU i>tqu>. Jtloiiiunl apu vtvtiuibus vli.ii, Miia. bb. iii. c. 2.

fav.

368

PENKANT's second tOUR IN SCOTLANB.

f;iy, by his lady, during the time of his abfencc, on an expedition againft the infidels,
to which he njigiit have been obliged by his proteflion, being a knight of Rhodes.
His fiiccefl'ors added greatly to it. Within are fomc remains of apartments, elegant,
aiid of nn great antiquity. The view from it of the rich vale, bounded by vail moun-
tains, is fine ; among wjiich Crouachan fours pre-eminently lofty.

This idand was probably the original feat of the t)'Diiimhms, Lords of Lochow, thi'
ancellors of the Campbels, who, in the reign of Malcolm Canmore, afl'umed their pre.
fent name, on account of the marriacie of a Malcolm Mac-Duimhm (who had gone
into Trance in queft of adventures) with the heirefs of Bellus Campus, or Beauchamp
in Normandy. From thofe lands Giallaefpig, or Archibald, his fon, took the name ot
Campbel, came into England with the Conqueror, and, viliting the country of his an-
cellors, married Evah, fole daughter of the chieftain ; and thus became poiVcfTor of the
cftate of Lochow. This barony, and the land of Ardfcordvrch ', were conlirinixl by
Robert L to Colin, ion of Nigel Campbel, by the tenure of providing for the King*3
fervice, whenever it was demanded, a fliip of forty oars, completely furnifhcd and
manned, and the attendance cultomary with the other barons of Argylcfhire *.

1 nmit not leave this parifh without mentioning a deep circular hollow, in form and
of the fize of a large cauldron, in a moral's near Hamilton's.Pafs, on the fouth lide of
the lake. J li; re is a t.adiiiou that this was one of the vatts frequent in the Highland
turberi's, from which the old natives drew an undluous fulillance, uled by them t ;
dye their cloth black, before the introdudion of copperas, Sec. The ingredient wa..
colleded from the fides of the hole, and furface oi' the v.ater; the cloth or yarn was
boiled in it, and received a lading colour.

Aug. i6. Continue my journey for iome time through the vale of Olenurchie, pol-
fefled by the Campbels f iince the time of Sir Colin before mentioned, anceflor ot the
Breadalbane line, the famous knight of Rhodes, furnameil from his complexion and
from his travels Duibh Na Roimh, or Black Colin of Rome ;|. This tract is of great
fertility, emh.lliflied \uih little groves, and watered by a line dream. 'I'hc vie^v bounded
on one fide by the great hill of Crouachan, and on the other by that of Benlaoighe.
The vir.lley now contnds into a glen, abounding vith cattle, vd deflitute both of arable
land aiKl meadow ; IvA the beads gather a good fudenance from the grafs that fprings
among the heath. See frequently nn the road fides fmall vcrduu hillocks, ftyled by the
common poop!, , (hi an, cr the E.iiry-haunt, bccaufe here, fiy they, the f.urics, who
love not the elareof liav, m.'.ke their retreat, after the ci.lebr.'.:ion of their hocturnal
revolt^.

I'afs by a little lake, vlufe waters run into the wedern fa. On the r. ;kI fide a
lead-mine is worked to I'oine advanta'.;.-, by means ef a I v.l. The veins are rich' d
near t!;e fi.rface, but d\\i:u!le aw;;y towards the fof'8. At triis place erter the ilillricl
of Breailalbane, in Perthfhire, and br(.ak!a!t at 'I'yendruin, or ttie Iioufe of height,
being the mi.d elevated h..biiation in North l>ritain. BreuJall;;!ie nl!o fignifying tfe
lof'i'.d trad of Albin, or Scotland. '1 hcfe hills are a part of that lofiv ran ;e cdu-
mtncing at Loch Lomond, traverfing the country to the (irlh of DcMp.oeh, and ca'lVd
by Tom.' writers, l))-i;!n-.\lbi:!. In my [afTage, in 'yt'-o, fi-rMn the Kin.-;'s-l!Oufe to this
place, 1 rode n-.ar the mMintaiiis uf B.-ndni-m. One < f tliem k eclehr.-.red fur llie
hollow fouiiii it ferds forth about twcntv-four honis I) i',re any luavv rain. The
fpi.'it of the niount.iin fliriek'?;^, warns the pealants t;> fhelti r their r.ock'j; and utters
liie fame awful progno;iic:-, tliat N'irgil aTtributes to th(;le ol Italy ;

i Cudunan'i C'ians, i yj.

A-a. ':„% Di/on-.-.l:.. N'j. XLVII.
Ms. Ii:il. of l:ic Caii'p'fls.

PENNANT .S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Conti'nun ventiii fiirp;cntibu», aiit fret^ ponti
iiiLipiiint ngitata tuiiitTcer<:, et ariiliu iiltis
M()ntil>us auiliri fragor.

Whin windi npproncli, tlie vxM fia lieavvs around ;
From tlie 'bleak mountain cnmes a liollow foiinj.

3^9

\Vh \rtcn

Immcdiati'ly below the village of Tyendrum rlfes the river Tay, wliich takes its
courfo into the cafltrn fca ; filch oppofite currents have two llreanis, not half a mile
iliflant from each other. Ride over the fniall plain of Dalrie, perhaps the feat of tlie
Da reudini mentioned by Bede *, or the ancient government of Dalriota, noticed by
Camden, or perhaps from having been the fcene of the following aftion, was calked
Dal-rie, or the King's field. On this fpot was the conflid between Robert Bruce and
fhe forces of Argylefliire, under Macdougal chieftain of Lorn, when the former was
defeated. A fervant of I.orn had fcized on Bruce, but the prince elcapcd by killing
'he f('l'-vv with a blow of his battle-ax ; but at the fame time lolt his mantl,' and
broicht, which the affailant tore away in h's dying agoni's. The brotche was long
prefervcd in the fnmily, at length deftroyed by a fire, that confumed the houfe of
Dunolly, the refidence of the rcj)iTfentative. One I have lern had been the property of
Tacleane of Lochbuy, In fhe ifle of Mull, and is faid to be made of filvcr fminci on the
rflaie. The wor4cman(hip is elegant, and fecms to be of the time of Oiiccn Kl'ZP.belh t.
It i. about five inches diameter at bottom. Round the upper margin is a Inw r.|)viglit
rim ; within that are ten obrlifl<p, about an inch and a quarter high, prettily (ludded,
and the top of each ornamented with a river pearl, Tlu;fe furround a iVcond rim j
froin that rifes a neat cafe, whofe fides projefl: into ten ilemi rounders, .ill neatly (UvU
dcd. Ill the center is a round cryilalline ball, a r'.agical gem, fuch as dcfcrihcd in the
tour of 1769. This cafe may be taken off; has a confiderablc hollow, in wliich
night have been kept amulets or reliques ; which, with iho afliflance of the powerful
fton(\ mull needs prove an infallible picfcrvative agaiiift all harms.

i'.ntfr Strarh-lill.m, or the vale of St. Tillan, an abbot, who lived in the -•ear 703,
and retired the latter end of his days. He is pleated to taheund.^r his proteftion the
difordcrod in mind ; and works wonderful cures, fay his vatarlcs, even to this day.
The uiilinppy lunatics are brought here by their friends, wl;o (irft perfoi-m the cere-
inonv of the Deafil, thrice round a neighbouring cairn ; afterwards oiler on it their
rag: , or a little bunch of heath tied with worked ; then thrice immerge the patient in
a holy nool of the river, a fecond Bcthefdaj and, to conclude, leave him fad bound
the nhoic night in the neighbouring chapel. If in the morning he is found lool'e, the
laint is fuppofed to be propitious ; for if he continues in bonds, his cure remains
doubtful f but it often happens that death proves the angel that releafes the afiiifted
before the morrow, irom all the troubles of this life.

The Deafil |, or turning from ea(t to well, according to the courfe of the fun, is
a ci (loin of high antiquity in religious ceremonies. The Romans § pradlifed the mo-
lion in the manner now performed in ^Scotland. 'J'he Gaulifh Druids made their cir-
cum-o'ution in a manner dl'-eilly reverfe; but tl.e Druids of Gaul and Britain had
probably the fame reaibn fir thefe circum-ambulations ; for as they held tlie omni-
prefenre of their God, it might be to iailruft thur difciples, that wherclbever they

'. M

■

Fir

I ■: J

• I i- i. C. I.

f 'l[\h fine ornament Is in t!ie polllfnon of ilir Rev. Dr. I.ort, Idtc Crteli IVoftfTor at C'an.Iiriii.^e, who
favoured me with the loan of It.

J |-'rom Dtaa or l)es, the right hand; and Syl, the I in. § IMiiul Mill Mat, lib xxviii i

VOL. HI. "., I! turned

4im

^;,:^,

'II , ■.

.miiMUiniMILHIIj) iiwuynHiUfS

., .mjimnLMijiwuMi..

37^

PENNANT 8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

The number of
arcli enchaiurcftj

turned their face, thoy \v»Te fure to meet the afpcd of tlic Deity *
turns was alio rolij^ioiilly obfcrvcd in very ancient days: thus I
Mcdoa, in all her charms attends to the facad three :

'Per fe convirtit, trr rumti» (liimine crinem

Irroravit acinii ; tiriiia uKil • ' 'lu ota

tiolvit, el In ilura fiibmillo o i li'c terra,

Nox, ait, *cc. *

Slic tiirn'd her thik'o aromul, ami thrice ihc threw
' On her long trifli.^ the lini'lu al Jtw ;

Thru yelh"njr tl ricr a inoll tiinlic loiind.
Iter hiirc knee beiiJctl un the Minty (ground.

The faint, tiie ohjcQ of ihe veneratii n in qticftion, was of mod fingiilar fervfce to
Robert Bruce, accordini:; to 'he crcdul ais Boothius, infpiring his foldicrv witli un-
coiniiion courage at tiio hartio of naniiocl<.lnii-n i, by a miracio wnuic.ht the day bofor>j
in his favour. His Mij. Ily\, chaphiin u;is dirccU'd to liii:!;^ with him into the field, the
arm of the faint, lodg...i in a filvor Ihriuf. 'J'he prod man, fearing, in cal" of a de-
feat, that the Knglilh ii'i^^ht become malUre of tlie precious liinl'*, brouj^ht only the
empty cover ; but, wiiile tlie King was invoking the aiil of St. iMilm, the iid of tho
fl)rine, placed before liim on the altar, opened and fhvit of its own accord : en in-
fpefliop, to the womler of the whoL- anny, tho arm was found relluftd to irs pl.icc ;
the loldiers accepted the omen, and alVured of vidory, fouglit wiJi an enthuriifin th.it
cnfured fuccefs. In gratitude for tlic airiflance hi- received that day fri>m the faint,
he founded here, in 1314, a priory of ciiions regul.ir, and coniecrated it :o him. At
the dilTolution, this hotde, with all the revv-nucs and fupei^orities, were granted to an
anceAor uf the prelent poifcflbr the Earl of Breadalbane |.

'J his part of the country is in the parifii of Killin, very remote from th^ church. As
the chapel here is d'.'ftitutc of a rcfident minifler, Lady Glenurchv, with dilUivuillvd
piety, las jud ellablilhcd a fund for the iiipport of one; has built a rood houfe for
h')", .iCC;;mmodation, and Lord Breadalbaiie hxi added to llie glebe.

i ' c trad is at pref nt almolt entirely (locked with (outh-coumr)' fliecp, which have
in a I -anner expcll'd t!ie breed ol black c.mle. Shet ;> are found to turn inori- to the
advaiitagc of the proprietors ; but wliether to the beneiit of the community, is a doubt.
The live dock of cattle of this kingdom decreafes ; from whence will our navy be
viduallcd ? or how will ihofe, who may bo able t.) purchale animal food, be fiipplied,,
if the mere private intercit of the farmer is lufilred univerfally to take place'? Mil-
lions at this time look up to the Legillature for reHridions, that uill once more rc-
llore plenty to thefe kini'doins.

Pals near the feat of Rob-Roy, the celebrated froe-booter mentioned in the former
volume.

Ijittr Glen-Dochart, and go by the fides of Loch-Dcjchart, beautifully or:iamontec!
with trees. In a lofty i:land emhofoined in wood, is the ruin of a cadle, one of the
nine under the rule of the great knight of Lochow. It was once taken by th.e Alac-
gregors, in a manner that did credit to the invention of a rude age. The place was
not i'.ccedible during fummer ; the alfailants therefore took advantage of a irofl, formed
vad lafeines of (Irau- and boughs ot trees, rul! -d iliele bef re them on the ice, to pro-
tect tiiem againd the arrows of the garrilon, till they could get near enough to make

Burliifc'k Antiq. Coniwal, 133.

-| liucthiuf, 3c 2.

t Ktiilr, 241.

the

VnUKAVr tt SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 7^1

tljt'ir attack, by foulinp at oncp the walls of the forti'efs. The Vcltas • of the northern
nations were ot this Kind: die ancient Swodes and (Joilis praftilVd an -attack of the
hmc n;'.turc' ; bi.t did, what pprhaps the RT'o-grcgorr. mij^ht alH) have don-.', wait for ,
liij;h wind in their favour, rfill the Veltn: as iKar as poinbl ■ to tho fort, fct them on firt,
and under favour of the flame, dillrolling tfi'"" beficgod, never failed of a fiicccfsful
t'vent.

I mufl ol'erve that the Mac-gr 'gors were of old a tnoft potent people. They pof-
ftflld Glonun.i'1. , wore owners of Glon-Lion, and ar^' even {w'A to h.ive been the ori-
ginal founders of Balloch or Taymnuth, or at Icaff to have had th;.'ir rcfidcncc there
before they wli ' fuccerded by the Campbells \.

Somewhat farther, oppolite to the farm of A^ uoflan, is a fmall lake, noted for a fl )at-

'^Mfts its quartrrs with ilie
ntly dcfcrib; 1 \ by the

ing >' !, fifty-one feet long, and twenty nine broad, thr

wir ,,. like the illuids (f tho Vadnnonian lake, ■. 'itly cIcK

ymtB^ ) ftrcngth furticient to carry an involuntti ;"-'i',^> the cattle Ui-it might

I : kvding on this mobile p'um, deceived wit., ir.ij '.' ; tiTa ce of its l-uip, lirin

l»r not indee<! boaft of car ying on its ibrfacc the carkfonic groves oi thofc on

the Cu Iters ; but, like the l.ydian Calnmina §, tnny be launched from the Hdos

of the .h poles, and can fliew plinty of coarfe grafs, fon;e fin.'I willows, and a

little bird) iree |j.

Proceed by the fides of the river, fincc its pafTiige through Loch Dothart, afuming
the name of that lake. 'J'he p^^'l-fifhcry in this part of the river fume years ago was
carried on with great fuccell;, anc the pearls were citcemcd the fairefl: and largcft of any.

The military road through this country is planned with a diftingulfhcd want of judg-
ment ; a feries of undulations, quite unneceflary, dillrefs the traveller for a confidorablc
part of the way. Near Acliline the eye begins to be relieved by the fight of inclofures ;
and fome plantations begin to hide the nakcdnefs of the country. On approaching tlic
village of Killin, every rond and every path was filled with groupcs oi jieople, of both
fexeo, in neat dreffes, \.vm\ lively j)laids;, returning from the facranient. A fober and
decent countenance dillinguiflicd every party, and evinced the deep fenfe they had of
fo folemn a coninieinorati(m. ]Jreadalbane in general is exempt from the charge of
impropriety of conducl on theie occafions, which happens fometimesj and by the un-
djicerning, the local fault is indifcriminatcly attributed to the whole.

Crofs two bridges. The river here forms two iflands, beautifully planted with firs :
Ini/libuy, the molf eafterly, is remarkably pidfurefque, the water rolling with tremen-
dous force Qi\ eacii fide for a long trad over a feries of broken rocks, and fhort but
quick-repeated cataradls, in a channel of unfpeakablc rudenefs.

Reach Killin, or Cill-Fhin, from the tradition of its having been the burial-place of
Fingal. Mere is an excellent inn, built by Lord Breadalbane, who, to the unfpcakable
comfort of the traveller, eftablillied others at Dalmalie, 'J'yendrum, and Kenmorc,
where they are as acceptable as caravanferas in the I'laft.

Mount Strone Clachan, a hill above Mr. Stuart's, the minirter's houfe, and am over-
paid tor the labour of the afeent by a moft enchanting view. .'\. mofl delicious plain
ipreads itlelf beneath, divided into verdant meadows, or glowing with ripened corn ^

• Olaiis M.ij;nii3 (!c Gtnt. Sept. Ill:), vii c. R, y. -j- Buchanan's Clans, :5'!?, 139.

X Epilt nil. viii. ]•■,]) 20 ^ Plinii Nat. Hia. lib. il. c. 95.

11 'I'lic tliickiK'lV, of iliis illf is twenty. five iiichts. Perhaps, at Mv. Gain) .nfiirms to be the cafe of other
^o.il!i)g in.inii^, tills niij;ht liave <iii^;iiiatt(i funn ihe twiltrd roots of t!ie felii-'.iius maiii'cus, and fcirpu^
I iilpiu hi;-, loiivertcd iiuo a iiioic fniu inaU by the addition of the care.t cxfpitofus. \'ide .Atiixn.
Aod. VII. a(>.

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Sciences
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33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

IT-

FSNNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND^

embellilheJ wilh woods, and watered with rivers uncommonly contrafted. Qn one
fide, pours down its rocky channel the furious Dochart ;, on the other, glides between-
its wooded banks the gentle Lochy, forming a vail bend of ftill water, till it joins the
firit ; both terminating in the great cxpanfeof Loch-Tay. The northern and fouthern
boundaries fuit the nugiiificence of the lake ; but the northern rife with fuperior ma-
jefty in the rugged heights of Finlarig, and the wild fummits of the ftill loftier Laurs,
often patched with fnow throughout the year. Extenfive woods clothe both fides, the
creation of the noble proprietor.

At the foot of the firft, amidft woods of various trees, lie the ruins of the caftle of
the fame name, the old feat of the Campbells, the knights of Glenurchie, and built by-
Sir Colin between the years 1513 and 1523 *. The venerable oaks, the vaft chefnuts,
the alh trees, and others of ancient growth, give a fine folemnity to the fcene, and com-
pliment the memory of progenitors, fo ftiulious of the benefit of pofterity. Tradition'
is loud in report of the hoipitality of the place, and blends with it tales of gallantry \
one of feftivity,. terminating in blood and fiaughter. Amidfl: the mirth of a.chri(lenbg,
in the great hall of Finlarig, inhabited, I think, at that time by Sir Robert, fen of the
chieftain, news. arrived that the Mac-donalds of Kcppoch liad made a creach into the-
lands of fome of their friends, had acquired a great booty, and were at that time palling
in triumph over the hill of Strone-clachan. The Campbells, who were then affembled^
in numbers to honour the occafion, took fire at the infult, and, warm with the convivial
cheer, darted from the table to take fudden revenge. They afcended the" hill with-
thoughtlefi bravery to begin the attack, were overpowered, and twenty cadets of the-
family left dead upon the fpot. News of the difafter was immediately fent to Taymouth,
the refidence of the chicftuin, who difpatched a reinforcement to thyfe who had efcapedj-
They overtook the Mac-donaUls at the braes of Glenurchie, defeated them, flew the;
brother of the chieftain, refcued the booty, and. returned *^ack triumphbg in the com-
pletion of their revenge.

Auguft 17. Crofs a large arch over the Lochy, winding to the north-weft; through
a fmallbut elegant glen, whofe fertile bottom is finely bounded by woods on both fides. .
Turn Ihort to the eaft, and continue my journey on a fine road, at a confiderable height-
above Loch-Tay. The land Hopes to the wafer edge, and both abov-e and below the
highway forms a continued traft of cultivated ground,^ rich in corn, and varied witlv
groves and plar-tations. The abundance of inhabitants on this iide furpaffes that of
any place in Scotland of equal extent ;, for from Finlarig to the forks of the Lion, about
fifteen nutes, there are not fewer than feventcen hundred and eighty fouls, happy under
a humane chicftam. Their habitations are prettily grouped along the fides of the hilly,
are Iniall and meajij oft<;n withuut windows or doors, and are the only diigrace to the
niagnificciice of the fcenory.

The oppofitc part of the lake is Icfs populous, and lefs fertile ; yet from the patches-
of corn-land, and the frequent woods, exhibits a mod: beautiful vitw.

In going through Laurs obfcrve a druidical circle, lefs complete than one that flioulj
have been mentioned before, at Kinnel,. a little fouth-wed of Kjllin j which confids of
fix vaft; (tones, placed equi-diftant from each other.

The windings of the lake in the courfc of the ride become very confpiruous, appear-
ing to form three great bendings. Its length is about fifteen miles, the breadth one :
the depth in many places a hundred fathoms ; and even wifhin as nli.^y yards of the
lliore is fifty fathoms deep. It abounds with fiih, fuch as. pike, perch, falmpn, char,,

Ijlac!\ Uook at Taymouth.

trout)

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

trout, famlets, minnows, lampries, and eels. A fpecies of trout is found here that
weighs thirty pounds.

All this country abounds with game, fuch as grous, ptarmigans, ftags, roes, &c.

Roes are in a manner confined to Glen Lion, where tiiey are protedcd by the prin-
cipal proprietor. Foxes are numerous and deftrudive. Martins are rare ; but the
ycllow-breafted was lately taken in the birch woods of Ranuoch. The otter is common.
The vulgar have an opinion that this animal has its king or leader ; they defcribe it as
being of a larger fize, and varied with white. They believe that it is never killed,
without the fudden death of a man or feme other animal at the fame inftant ; that its
fkin is endued with great virtues, is an antidote againft all infe£lion, a prefervative to the
warrior from wounds, and infures the mariner from all difallers on the watery element.

The cock of the wocdj or cspcrcaiile, or capercalze, a bird of this genus, once fre-
quent in all-parts of the Highlands, is now confined to the pine forefts north of Loch-
ncfs : fr.om the fize it is- called the horfe of the woods, the male fometimes weighing
fifteen pounds.. The colour of the bread is green, refembling that of the peacock :
above each eye is a rich fcariet (kin» common to the grous genus : the feet of this and
the black cock are naked , and the edges of the toes ferrated ; for thefe birds, fitting
upon trees, do not want the thick feathery covering with which nature hath, cloathed
thole of the red game and ptarmigan, who during winter are obliged to refide bedded
in the fnows. Bifhop Lefly * defcribes three of the fpecies found in Scotland ; the
capercalze, which he truly fays feeds on the extreme Ihoots of the pine, the common
grous with its feathered feet, and the black cock : he omits the ptarmigan. It has been,
my fortune to meet with every kind : the three laft frequently ; the capercalze only at
Inveriiefs.

Woodcocks appear in Breadalbane in the beginnmg or middle of November ; but
do not reach Ard-maddie, or, I may fay, any part of the weftern coaft of the Highlands
till the latter end of December, or the beginning of January r they continue there in
plenty till the middle or latter end of March, according to the mildnefs or rigour of the
leafon, and then difappear at once. In the firft feafon they continue arriving in fuc-
fieflion for a month ; and in every county in Scotland (where they are found) fly regur
larly from call to vvelh 1 heir firft landrng-placos are in the eadern counties, fuch as.
Angus, Mcrns, etc. ufually about the end of OQober ; hut their ftay in thofe parts is
very (hurt, as wcodvS are fo fcarce. Woodcocks are very rarely feen in Caithnefs; and"
there are'ftill feworin the Orknies, or in the more remote Hebrides : one or two ap-
pear there., as if by accident driven thither by tenipefls, not voluntary migrants. There
is no account of tliele bird.s having ever bred in Scotland, any more than of the fieldefara.
and redwing ; yet all three make .tieir fumnier refidence in Norway, from whence, in
all probability, niimy of them vilit our iflands.

Sea eagles breed in ruined towers, but quit the country in winter ; the black eagles
continue there the whole year. Tliey were lb numerous a few years ago in Rannoch,
that the commiflibners of the forfeited- eftates gave a reward of five (hillings for every
one that was deftruyed. In a little time fuch numbers were brought in, that the
honourable board thought fit to reduce the reward to three iliillings and fix-
pence ; bat a fmall advai'ce, in proportion as the birds grew fcarcer, in all probability
would have cffVdtd their extirpation. But to relume the journey. The whole road
en the fide of the lake is excellent, often croflfed by gullies, the effeds of j^reat rains, or
torrents from the melted Inow. The public are indebted to Lord Breadalbane not only

• Hi'l. Scutix, p. 24, Tlie female of the capercalze is of the colour of the common grou*.

for

i.:i

mm
id

1".
I » >

6'! j'il

374

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

for the goodnefs of the way, but for above thirty bridges, all made at his expencc, to
facilitate the palfage. Crofs the opening into the liule plain of Fortingal, mentioned
in my former Tour, noted for its camp, the mod northern work of the Romanr. that I
could get any intelligence of. It ieems to have been the caftelluin of fnine advanced
party in the time of Antonine,or Commodus, or perhaps a temporary flation in that of
Severus. in whole reign the Romans abandoned thefe parts. A copper veflel, with a
beak, handle, and three feet, was found in it. 1 did not hear of any coins met with on
the fpot ; but, in digging the foundation of a tower nonr Taymouth, fourteen filver
denarii were difcovered, but none of a later date than Marcus Aurclius.

I mufl: aifo commemorate again the wonderful yew-tree in the church-yaru of Fortin-
gal, whole ruins mealure fifty-fix feet in circumference. The middle part is now de-
cayed to the ground ; but within memory was united to the height of three feet :
Captain Campbell, of Glen-lion, having allured me that, when a hoy, he his often
chmbed over, or rode on, the then conueding part. Our anceftors feem to have had
a clallical rcafon for planting thefe difmal trees among the repofitories of the dead ;
and a political one, for placing them about their houfes : in the firft inftance, tht'y were
the fubfHtutes of the inv'ifa cuprcjfus \ in the other, they were the defigned provifion of
materials fur the Hardy bows of our warlike anccltors.

Who drew,
And almod joined, iht horns of the tough yew.

In the days of i^rchery fo great was the confumption of this fpecies of wood, that the
bowyers were obliged to import flaves of yew * for making the belt fort of bows. I'his
tree is not univerfally difperfcd through England in its native Uate; or at leall is now
in moft parts eradicated, on a< count of its noxious qualities ; yet it is flill to be found
in quantitits on the lofty hills that bound the water of the Winander, thofe near Rydal
in AVellmoreland, and on the face of many precipices in different parts of this kingdom.

Not far from the church is the houfe of Colonel Campbell, of Glen-lio;i, a beautiful
tale that runs feveral miles um the country, w.\tered by a river of the lume name.

I mull add to my account of the cryllal gem in poHeflion of that gentleman, that'
there was a remarkable one in poffellion of Sir Kdward Harlev, of Brampton Brian, fet
in a filver ring, refembling the meridian of a globe, with a c: .1 the top, and on the

rim the powerful names of Uriel, Raphael, Michael, aUki iriel. This predided

death dictated receipts for the cure of all curables f ; and unocher, of much the fame
kind, even condclcended to recov:'r loll goods +. It was cultomary in early times to
depofic thefe balls in urns or fepulchres. Thus twenty were found at Rome in an ala>
ballriiic urn, cafed with two great floncs, and lodged in a hollow made in each to receive
it. The contents were bt fides the balls) a rin^- with a Hone fet in it, a needle, a comb,
and fome bits of gold mixed with the alhcs : the needle Ihcwed thefe remains to have
been thofe of a lady.

In the tomb of Childeric, King of Franco, was found another of thefe balls. Some
Merlin might have bellowed it on him ; which mull have been an invaluable gift, if it
had the fame powers with that given by our magician to the Briiilh Prince.

Such was tlie f^lafTv v^vht that Merlin mae^e,

Ai,(l ^^avi; iMilo King Rytti.ct- for his gird.
That iivtr lots iiis kingilum ml^ht invade, >

Ihit he it knew at home l>clore he huid
Tydings thereof, and fo them (lill dcbarr'd ;

• StattrtcjsHcn.VIlI. 0,9. fift. 6.

■f Aubrey's MifttUaiiies-

t IbiJ.

PEKNAKt's second tour in SCOTLAND.

It was R famous prcfent for a prince, . ,-

And worthy worke of iufinite reivarcJe,
Tliat trcafons cou'd betray, and foes convince :
Happy this rcalmc Iiad it remayncd ever fince

375

« I

Approach nearTaymouth, keeping ftill on the fide of the lake. Leave on the right,
not far from the flxore, the pretty ifle of Loch-Tay, tufted with trees, Ihading the
ruinvS of the priory. From the ancient inhabitants of this holy ifland, the prefeat
noble owner has liberty of fifliing in the lake at all times in the year ; which is denied
to the other land-owners in the neighbourhood. But it was neceflary ft)i- the monks
to be indulged with that privilege, as their very exiflence depended on it. To this
ifland the Campbells retreated at the approach of the Marquis of Montrofe, where they
defended themfelves for fome time againft that hero. A fhot narrowly miffed him,
which enraged him to that degree as to caufe him inftantly to carry fire and fword
through the whole country. It was taken and garrifoned ; but in 1654 was furren,-
dcred to General Monk t-

On the right is a plantation, the orchard of the monaftcry. In It is a black cherry-
tree that meafures, four fett from the ground, ten feet three inches in circumference.

Crdfs the Tay on a temporary bridge, juft below its difcharge from the lake, where
it properly begins to affume that name. A moft elegant bridge is now conftruding in
this place, under the dircdlion of Captain Archibald Campbel, after a defign by Mr.
Baxter, partly at the expence of Lord Breadalbane, partly by that of the neighbouring
gentry, and partly by aid of the commidioners of forfeited eftates. It confills of three
large arches, and a fmaller on each fide, in cafe of floods. Reach

Taymouth, his lordftiip's principal houfc, originally called Balloch caflle, or the caftle
at the difcharge of the lake ; was built by Sir Colin Campbell, fixth kniglit of ^Lochow,
who died in the year 1583. The place has been much modernized fince the days of
the founder ; has the addition of two wings, and loft its caftellatcd form, as well as the
old name. We are informed that this Sir Colin " was an great jufticiar all his tyme
thn chtht quhille he fuftenit that dadlie feid of the Clangregour ane lang fpace. And
befydis that he caufcd cxecuft to the death many notable lymmcris. He behaddit the
Laird M'Greg' himfelff at Candomir in prefcnce of the Erie of AthoU, the juftice clerk,
and fundrie other noblemen +."

By a poem I met with in the library at Taymouth, it appears that this unfortunate
chieftain, furnamed Duncan Laider, or the Strong, made a very good end ; and deli-
vered, in penitential rhymes, in Spenfer's manner, an account of his paft life, his forrow
for his fins, and his pathetical farewell to the various fcenes of his plundering exploits.
Like Spcnfcr, he perfonifies the vices. The two firfl ftanzas will fufficc for a fpccimea-
of his manner :

Qtihn pafTit wes tlie tyme of tcnciir age,
, And youth with infolcnce maid acqiientance.

And wickitnefs enforced evill conrage,
Quhili Mijjht with Criieltie maid alliance ;
Theti Fallhcad tiike on Mm the (governance.
And mc hctaucht anc lioiifhald fur to gyde

Callit evil comp.inie, baith to ganij and ryde.

Mymailler houdiald wcslicicht Opprcffioun,
Rtif my ik'ward that caiilt of na %v anjr ;
Mm thine, hlaiichtir, ay of ane prolcflioun,
My ciihl'-iilaris, bene thir yearii lang :
Rccept, that oft tuik mony ane fang,
AVas ])orter to theyttli<, to oppin wydo,
.•Vnd Cov:i;i':e wes ch.tmbcil.inc at ;ill tyde.

• Speiifti'i I'alry Qiictn, Book III. c. 2. ftanza 2 r. I- Whitdcck's Mem. 592. $ Black Bo;ik.

c The

sirs' W H

■I'm'
■iMi

I If •' -

i.3
i ' 'W

ir'm

376 PENNANT** SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

The mod remarkable part of the furnilure of Taymouth is the portraits ; here being
a mod confiderable co'.ledion of the works of Jamefon, the Scotch Vandyck, an eleve
of this family.

In the fame room with the famous genealogical pidlure are about twenty heads of
perfons of the fame family. Among them is the laft Sir Duncan Campbell, a favourite
of James VI. ; and not lefs fo of Anne of Denmark ; who, after the acceflion, often by
letter folicited his prefence at her new court ; and font him, as a mark of innocent
eilceni,a ring fet with diamonds, and ornamented with a pair of doves.

The other piftures of Jamefon's performance are in a fmall parlour ; but unfortu-
nately much injured by an attempt to repair them. There are the heads of

William Graham, Earl of Airth, 1637. He was originally Earl of Menteith, a title
derived from a long train of anceftors. He was much favoured by Charles I. who in-
dulged his pride by conferring on him, at his requeft, the earldom of Slrathern,
which he pretended to, as being defcended from David Stuart, nephew to David II.
Unfortunately his vanity induced him to hint fome pretenfions to the crown. Charles
punilhed his folly by depriving him of both earldoms ; but, rcK-ming foon after, created
him Earl of Airth, with precedence due to the creation of Malile, E. of Menttith by
James I.

John Lord Lefsly, 1 6^6, afterwards Duke of Rothes ?. He died in 1681; and hrd,
according to the extravagant folly of the times, a funeral of uncommon magnificence f.
The Duke of York being at that time in Scotland, was alked how be Ihould be buried,
his highnefs anfwered as chancellor of Scotland ; his relations, ill verfed in courtly lan-
guage, concluded that his funeral was to be at the public exptncc, and beftowcd on it a
luni their circumftances would not admit of. But a happy confequcnce of this vanity
was a law reflridting the idleexpence of coftly funerals.

James, Marquis of Hamilton, 1636, afterwards Duke of Hamilton.

Mary, Marchionefs of Hamilton, 1636, daughter to the former, and on the death of
her brother, heirefs to the title and fortune This lady is dilHnguifheii for her works of
piety and charity, in the ifle of Arran, by the glorious titU^ of the Good.

Archibald Lord Napier, 1637, grand-fou of the celebrated John Napier, author of
the Logarithms.

William Earl Marifhal, 1637, a remarkable fufitrer in the caufes ol Charles I. and II. :
rewarded, on the reftoration, with the privy feal of Scotland.

The Lord of Loudon, 1 637, afterwards chancellor of Scotland.

Thomas Hamilton, Lord Binning, fon of the firft Earl of Hadington, and fuccefTor
to the title. In 1640, being comn.andant of the garrifon of Dunglas, then held for the
Covenanters, was blown up, with feveral other perfons of quality, by the defperate
treachery of his page, an Englifh boy, who had been infulted by the company on ac-
count of fome fuccefs of the Scots, and in revenge fet fire to the powder magazine ;
one gentleman, who at the time Rood at an open window, was blown out and fur-
vived ; the boy's arm was found in the ruins with a ladle in it, with which ho was fup-
pofed to have carried the fud.

John Earl of Mar, 1636, made Knight of the Bath at the creation of Henry, Prince
of Wales.

Sir Robert Campbell, of Glenurdiie, 1641 .

Sir John Campbell, of Glenurchie, 1642.

• Vide Vol. I. io«.

f Rfprefented in four large plates, publiihed by Tlwraas Soomcr*.

PENKANT'8 8EC0HD TOUR IN 8C0TLAND.

377

Tn the drawing room arc two portraits, by Vandyck, of two noble brothers, diftin-
guiflicd charafters in the unhappy times of Charles I. The firft may be ftiled one of
the nioft capital of that great painter's performances. Sir Robert Waipole, the bed
jud^^c of paintins^s in his time, was of that opinion, and would have given any price for
it. '1 luT" is particular reafon for the exquifite finifhing of this pifture ; Vandyck was
patronized by his lordfliip, lived with him at Holland houfe, and had all opportunity to
complete it at full leifure. The beautiful, the courteous, the gallant Henr)' Rich, Earl
of Holland, is rfprefented at full length, dreflcd with the elegance he might have ap-
peared in to win the affedtions of the Queen of his unfortunate mailer. He appears in
a' white and gold doublet ; a fcarlet mantle, laced with gold, flows gracefully from him ;
his white boots are ornamented with point ; his armour lies by him. Charles was
llruck with j^'aloufy at the partiality (hewn to this favourite by Henrietta. He direfted
his lordlhip to confine himfelf to his houfe; nor was the reftraint taken off, till the
Queen refufed on that account, to cohabit with her royal fpoufe.* But neither loyalty
to his mailer, nor tendernefs to his iair miflrefs, could prevent him from joining the
popular party after receiving every favour from the court, his earldom, the garter,
command of the guard, and groom of *he ftoie. With unfettled principles, he again
deferted his new friends, fliifting from fide tu Jide. At length, immediately before the
murder of his fovereign, roufed by the dangers of one to whom he was fo much in-
debted, he made a fingle effort in his favour ; but, on the firfl: appearance of danger
(as he had done more than once) fled the attack, was taken, and ended his days on the
fcaffoid, falling timidly, inglorious, unpitied.

In the fame room is the portrait of his elder brother Robert Earl of Warwick, high
admiral of England, in the fervice of the parliament. The fhips in the back ground
denote his profeffion. His perfon, like the Earl of Holland's, elegant ; his mind more
firm, and his political conduct more coherent. He left a court he had no obligation to ;
adhered to the Parliament as long as it exifled, and fupported bimfelf by the power of
Cromwell, as foon as the tyrant had deftroyed that inftrument of his ambition. He
was of great popularity with the puritanical party, kept open houfe for the Divines of
the times, was a conflant attendant at their fermons, " made merry with them and at
them, which they difpenfed with. He became the head of their party, and got the
ilyle of a godly man. Yet of fuch a licence in his words and in his adions, that a man
of lefs virtue could not be found out f." What a pifture of fanatical priefl-hood ?
which could endure, for its own end, the vices of the great ; yet at the fame time, be
outrageous againfl: the innocent pleafuresof the multitude.

In the dining room arc portraits ^a later time. John, the firft Earl of Breadalbane,
a half length, in his robes. His lady, daughter to the unfortunate Holland, is in an-
other frame, near him. His lordfliip was unhappily a diftinguifhed charafter in the
reign of King William. He had formed a humane plan for conciliating the affe£lions
of the clans by bribing them into loyalty, till refleflion and cooler times would give
them opportunity of feeing the benefits that would refult from change of government.
The chieftains at once attended to his propofals ; and, at the fame time, gave affurance
to their old mailer, that they would prefcrve terms no lopger than was confiftent with
his intereft. Enraged at their perfidy, and perhaps actuated by feudal refentment, he
formed the common fcheme in North Britain, of extirpation by fire and fword. The
mod pernicious indeed of the clans was fingled out for execution ; but the manner and
the feafon were attended with circumllances of fuch a nature, that caufed the indifferent
to Ihudder j the clans to refent with a long and fatal revenge.

• Royal and Noble Authors, i. 13*. 2d. ed. \ Clarendon.

VOL. III. 3 c In

4t:

•I
il

378

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR. IN SCOTLAND.

In the library is a hiftory of Thebes, in verfe.

The will of Duncan Laider, before quoted ; a long poem in manufcript.

His lordfliip's policy • furrounds the houfe, which Hands in a park, one of the few
in North Britain where fallow deer are feen.

The ground is in remarkably fine order, owing to his lordfhip's afliduity in clearing
it from the ftones with which it was once covered. A blaiicr w;'s kept in conflant em-
ploy, to blafl with gunpowder the great ftones ; for by rcalbn of their lize, there was
no other method of removing them.

The Berceau walk is very magnificent, compofcd of great hme trees, forming a fine
Gothic roof, four hundred and fifty yards long. I'hc Ibuth terrace on the banks of the
Tay is eighteen hundred yards long ; that on the north, two thouland two hundred,
and is to extend as far as the junftion of the Tay and the Lion, about eighteen hun-
dred more : each is fifty feet wide, and kept with the' n jatnefs of the walks of a London
villa. The river runs with great rapidity, is clear but not colourlefs; for its pellucid-
nefs is that of brown cryftal, as is the cafe with mo[l of the rivers in Scotland. The
Tay has here a wooden bridge, two hundred feet long, leading to a white feat on the
fide of the hill, commanding a fine view up and clown Strath Tay. The rich meadows
beneath the winding of the river, the beginning of Loch-T;iy, the Jifcliarge of the river
out of it, the pretty village and church of Kinmorc, i'orm a molt pleafing and inagnifi-
cent profpeft.

The view from the temple of Venus is that of the lake, with a nearer fight of the
church and village : the two fides of the fine water are feen to vail advantage.

Much flax is cultivated in thefc parts. A few years ago, when pramia were given
for the greatpft crops, from fevcnly to a hundred and twenty hoglhcaJs of lin-feed were
annually fown ; and each peck yielded two ftones of drefled flax ; and when the yarn
fold higheft, two thoufand pounds worth has been fold out of the country. The
prefent low price affefts the trade of the country, yet ftill more flax is imported than the
land produces.

Oats, bear f, and potatoes arc the other crops. Oats yield from four to fix-fold at
the moft, oftener lefs ; bear, from eight to ten, at an average, fix. The corn railed
feldoni fuffices the number of inhabitants ; fur they are often obliged to have recourfe
to importation.

Every pcrfon has his potatoe-garden ; and they often change the fort : the London-
Lady has been found to iuccced beft, which in fome farms yields from feven to ten fold.
Some people have diftilled from this root a very ftrong fpirit, which lias been found to
be cheaper than what is dillilled from any grain. Starch is alfo made of it ; and, in
fome families, bread.

Corcar, or the Lichen omphaloidcs, is an article of commerce ; great quantities have
been fcraped from the rocks, and exported for the ufe of the dyers, at the price of a
ihilling or fixteen pence a ftone.

A good many fhecp are now reared here. The beft fat weathers fell for eleven fiiii-
lings each. Thofe of the old fmall kind for only fix. Much wocJl is Tent out of the
country.

The bert bl;ick cattle have been fcsid for five guineas per head ; but the ufual price of
the four year old is about live and iorty Ihillings. While on this fubjed, 1 cannot help

• This word fignilics here, iniprovfitienti, ordemefne.

I A yaiiety of Rarley with Iquare heads, and four rows of Rrain, calKd hy old OoiTarcl, r>enre
Bailef, or li.irify l)i^^ and Hordctun polylliclium vcniiiin, to diftingiiifli it froin llic coimiiiin kind, wliidi
hf fivlr\ tloiJcura dylUclion. Us fuiu baricn la.ids, and rijicns cavly, wliitli icconimtndj ilit id!: in iliij
riiiiy cii.r.att.

men-

T»EKNANT'5 Sr.COND tour in HCOTL.Wf).

27^

mentioning the diflrefsful Hate of this country, prcviour, to the rebellion ; for, till the
year 1745, Lord Breadalhanc \vasoblia;ed to Iceep a coailant guard for the protecti(m
of his valials cattle, or to retain fj-ics amoniT the thievilh cLuir, havin^j; roo much Ipirit
to fobmit to pay the infa. nous tax of black meal to th'- plundering chi' ftains.

Fewhorfes are roared here. Such which feed on the tops of the higher hills are of.
ten afFedK'd with a didemper that commonly proves fatal, if a remcviy is not ;viplied
within twenty-four hours. It artackr. them in the month:-; of July and Aui^'u'!:, uiually,
after a fall of rain, on or before the dew rifes in the morning. An univerfal fwelliiig
fprcads over the body; the remedy is cxercife, chafing, or any method that promotes
urine and perfpiration. The vulgar attribute this evil to a certain animal that fcatterr,
its venom over the grafs ; but more probably it urifes from fome noxious vej-.ctabic
hitherto unobferved.

Auguft 19. Crofs the Lion at a ford near its union with the Tay. To the north
foars the rocky hill of Shi-hallin, or the paps; and to the left lies the road to Ram-
noch, noted for its lake and pine foreft.

Vifit Cadle Menzies, the feat of Sir Robert Monzies, placed romantlcly at the foot
of the northern fide of Strath-Tay. The woods that rife boldly above, and the grey
rockr, that peep between, arc no linall emhellifliment to the vale. Far up the hill are
the remains of a hermitage, formed by two iides of native rock, and two of wall, fome
centuries part, the retreat of the chief of the family, who dilgulled with the world, re-
tired heie, and rcfigned his fortune to a younger brother.

Crofs I'aybrMge, and vifit on the oppofitc fide, Monefs, a place Mr. Fleming isfo
happy ai; to call himfelf owner of. A neat walk conduds you along the fides of a deep
and well-wooded glen, enriched with a profufion and variety of cafcades, that itrike
with aUonilhment. The firll, which lies on the left, runs down a rude ftaircafe with
numbers of landing-places, and patters down the flops with great beauty. Advancing
along the bottom, on the right, is a deep and darkfome chafm, water-worn for ages;
the end filled with a great cataraft, confiding of fevcral breaks. The rocks more pro-
perly arch than impend over it, and trees imbrown and (hade the whole.

Afceiid a zig-zag walk, and, after a long labour, crofs the firft cafcade. The path
is continued among the woods to the top of the hill : emerge into a corn-field, re-enter
the wood, and ililcover, from the verge of an immcnfe precipice, another cataract,
forming one vail fhc, t, tumbling into the deep hollow, from whence it gufhes furioufly,
and is inlUntly lofl in a wood beneath.

Ni) flranger mufl omit vifiting Monei. . i:. being an epitome of every thing that can
be admired in the curiofity of water-falls.

Au ;u(l. 20. Leave Tay mouth. Soon reach the eaftern extremity of Lord Bread-
albanc's eflate ; which, I may now fay from experience, reaches near a hundred miles;
having leen the other end among the llate iflands in the weftern fea. The ancaftorof
Lord Breadalbane's being afked why he placed his houfe at the extremity of his eflate,
aniuered, that he intended it fhould be in time in the middle of it. In thofe days he
might have a profpeft of making his words good.

Ride along the banks of the Tay. The river flows. in frequent reaches of confidcr-
able lenijth, which are finely bordered with corn-fields, intermixed with fmall groves;
both which fpread on both fides, far up the hills. Crofs Tay-bridge, and continue the
fame iort of plealing rule, with one variation only, and that for a fmall fpace, where
th<' banks heighten, and are cloathed with hanging woods; and near them are afew
rifings covered with broom.

3 c 2 A little

ll: : :|

380

FHNNANT*8 SECOND TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

A little below Tay>bndge enter that divifionof Porthfliire, called Atliol, infamous^
fays Camden, for its witches ; with more truth, at prefent, to be admired for its high
improvements, natural and moral.

Enter the pariOi of Logierait, containing about 2,200 inhabitants. Go through the
little town 0/ Logierait, in feudal davsthe ieat of the regality court, where the family of
Athol had an extenfive civil and cnminal jurifdidion. By power delegated from the
crown, the great men had formerly courts, ** with fock, lack, pitt * and gallous, toill
and hame, infangthief and outfangthief, had power to hald courts for flauchter ; and
to doe juflice upan ane man taken with theift, that is I'eifed thairwithin hand have-nnd,
or on back bearand." Juftice was adminidered with great expedition, and too often
with vindidve feverity : originally the time of trial and execution was to be within tliree
funs : about the latter end of the lad century, the execution was extended to nine days
after fentcncc : but, on a rapid and unjuft execution in Hamilton f, in the year 1720^
the time was to be deferred tor forty days, on the fouth, and fixty on the north, of the
Tay, that the cafe might reach the royal ear, and majelly have opportunity of exerting
its brighteft prerogative.

Above the town, is the poor remnant of the cadle, defended on the accefllble fide by
a deep ditch : the other is of great (lecpnefs. It is faid to have been a hunting feat of
Alexander III. The profpeft from hence is fine ; for three beautiful vales, and two
great rivers, the Tay and the Tumel, unite beneath. This was felefted a", the place of
execution, that the criminal might appear a (Iriking example of julUcc to lu great an ex-
tent of country. I niuft add, that Pexecuieur de la haute jujlice had his houfe free, and
two pecks of meal, and a certain fee, for every difcharge of his office.

Dcfcend, and am ferried over the Tumel : reach the great road to Blair, and turn-
ing to the left, reach Dallhian ; where on the fummit of a little hill, in an area of a
hundred and fixty feet diameter, is the ruin of St. Catherine's chapel : on the accef-
fible fide of a hill is a ditch of great depth. This place feems to have been an ancient
Britifh pod ; and that in after-tnnes the founder of this chapel might prefer the fitua-
tion on account of the fecurity it might atlbrd to the devotees in a barbarous age.
There are in other parts of this parifh remains of chapels, and other religious founda-
tions, as at Killichaflie, Tillipuric, Chapcltown, andPilgir; and at Killichange may be
feen aruin, furrounded with woods, with the rolling waters of the Tumel adding fo-
kmnity to the fituation.

Enter the pariHi of Moulinc, Ma-oline, or tlic little lake, from the wet fituation of
part : that called the Hollow of Mouline is the mofl: fertile. The parilh contains about
two thoufantl five hundred fouls. Their m;uiufaftures, and thofe of Logierait, are the
fame : in both great quantities of flax being I'pun into yarn ; and much fl-ix imported
from Holland and the Baltic for that purpole, befides what is railed in the country.
Notwithflanding the apparent fertility of thefe vales, the produce of oats, bear, and
potatoes, is not equal to the confumption ; but quantities of meal are imported. Bar-
ley bread is much ufed in tliefe part' , and elleemed to be very wholdbnie.

To the honour of the landlords of all the trads I paflcd over fince my landinpf, none
of the tenants have migrated. They an' encouraged in manufactures and rural oecon-
omy. The ladies promote the article of cleanlinefs among the lower order of females
by little /rtf;«/<; : for example the Duchtls of Athol rewards with finart hats the laffos
who appear neateft in tiu)re parts, where her Grace's influence extends.

Women were ufually punifhcil by drowiung. f Life of Captain Porteout. Loniion iTi'j, p. 38.

pennant's 8BC0N0 TOUK. IN SCOTLAND.

3J1

In this (Mrifh are confiderable natural woods of oak : they arc cut done in twenty
years for the fake of the bark, which is here an important article of commerce. The
timber fells at little or no price, being too finall for ufe.

'I'he common difeafcs of this country ^l may fay of the Highlands in general) are
fevers and colds. The putrid fever makes great ravages. Among the nova cohort
febrlum which have vifited the earth, the ague was till of late a ftranger here. The
Glacach, or, as it is fomctimes called, the iVIac-donalJs dil'order, is not uncommon.
The afHided fmds a tightncfs and fulIncCs in his chclt, as is frequent in the beginning
of conlumptions. A family of the name of Macdonald, an hereditary race of Mac-
haons, pretend to the cure by gbcach, or handling of the part affefted, in the fame
manner as the Irilh Mr. Grcatrcaks, in the lalt century, cured by (troking. The Mac-
donals touch the part, and mutter certain charms \ but, to their credit, never accept a
fee on any entreaty.

Common colls are cured by Brochan, or water gruel, fweetened with honey; or
by a dole of butter and honey melted in fpirits, and adminidered as hot as pulTible.

As I am on this fubjedt, I (hall in this place continue the lid of natural remedies^,
which were found cfHcacious before they began to

Fee tlie DoAor for his naufeous dianglit.

Adult perfons freed themfelves from colds, in the dead of winter, by plunging into
the river ; immediately going to-bcd under a load of cloaths, and i'weating away their
complaint.

Warm cow's milk in the morning, or two parts milk and one water, a little treacle
and vinegar made into whey, and drank warm, freed the Highlander from an inveterate
cough.

The chin-cough was cured by a decotftion of apples, and of the mountain afh,
fweetened with brown fugar.

Confiimptions, and all the diforders of the liver, found a fimple remedy in dtinking
of biiUcr-milk.

Stale urine and bran made very hot, nnJ applied to the part, freed the rheumatic
from his excruciating pains.

Fluxes were cured by the ufe of meadow fweet, or jelly of bilberry, or a poultice of
flour and fuet ; or new churned butter ; or ftrong cream and frefh fuet boiled, and
drank plentifully morning and evening.

Formerly the wild carrot boiled, at prefent the garden carrot, proved a relief in can-
cerous, or ulcerous cafes. Even the faculty admit the faUitary effefl of the carrot-poul-
tice in fweetening the intolerable foetor oF the cancer, a property till lately neglefled
or unktiCV/n. How reafonable would it be therefore, to make trial of thefe other re-
meflies, founded in all probability, on rational obfervation and judicious attention to
nature !

Perfons afFefted with the fcrophula imagined they found benefit by expofmg the
part every day to a dream of cold water.

Flowers of daifies, and narrow and broad leaved plantane, were thought to be reme-
dies for the ophtlialmia.

Scabious root, or the bark of a(h tree burnt, was adminidered for the tooth-ach.

The water r.umnculusis ufed indead of canthrailes to raife bliders.

But among the ufeful plants, the Corr or Cor-raeille * mud not be omitted, whofe
foot dried are the fupport of the Highlanders in long journies, amidd the barren hills-

•-Orobus tubcruriMj wood peafe.

Hudf. H. Ang. 274.

dedltutet

i'if

\'\n\\

38:

pennant's 91 ( OND tour TM iCOTLAND.

(loftitiite of the fiipports of life; and a fm:\ll quantity, like the alimentary povvdcrt?, will
tor a long time ivpi-l the attacks of luinpi't*. Inlufeil in liquor it is nn ap;rccal)lo bcvcr-
a.«;e, and, like iht* Ncponihe of thi; G retks, cxhiliratcs tlii> mini. IVoni the fimilitiid.'
of found in tht> name, it fioms in bi* iht'faniL- with Chara, the root difcoviTcd by 4iii."
foKliors of Ctcfar at thf fii .^e of Dyirachiun* •, which ll(.\ poil in milk was fuch ari'licf
to tho familhcd army. Or we may reafonably bclivvo it to have been tlio CnI'donian
food difcnbid by Dio f, c^l which tho quantity of a bean wniiUI prevint botlt bunker
and thirfl : and this, lays tlu' liittorian, flicy have ready for all occafions.

Among the plants of nu re rarity, mull be reckoned the trailing thyme leaved Azali a,
and the reclining Sibbaldia. Tht- firll is found on Crouachan, and on IJenmore ; the
lad rn Henmore.

Mr. John Smart informed no, that he had difcovored, in fomc part of nrrailalbnnc,
the Heiula Nana, or Diva. 1 IJirch. This plant j^rmvs in plenty in fume boggy ^ro'.md
in the canton of Sthweiiz, where the nativis believe it to be the fpecies with which our
Savicur was fcourged ; and from that pi^rind it was curled with a llunted growtli.

For burns, they boil cream till it bect)mes oil, and with it anoint the part.

The Itch declines in pn portion as eleanlinels gains ground. It may happen that
that diforder may be fought in the pui lieus of St. Giles's, and other feats of tilth, po-
verty, and debauchery, in our great towns.

During tho unhappy civil wars of this kingdt ni in the lafl century, a loalhfome and
horrible dillemper, origin.Tiing front the vices of mitnkind, made its apjjearancc in the
Ilighlaiuis, and washipijoled to havir been communicated (ird by the parliament's gar-
rifon at Invcrlochy. It has llnce dillufeil itielf over moll parts of the Uighlandb, and
even crept into the Lowlands, feoming to have accompliflied the divine menace, in vifit-
ing the fin^ of the father upon the children ti thi third ami Inu'ih generation.

The ricital is dii.igreeable, but too curious to be (iipnrefl. d j and therefore, not to
betray the delicate mind into a ililgulting nairative, I tliru.^ it into the Appendix, and
leave the perulal to the choice of the reader.

I Ihall now proceed from the dilortlers of tho body to thofe of the fold ; for what
clfe are the fuperllitions th;\t inlcft Miaiikiiul ? a f t w utmoticed before at e dill prelerved,
or have till ui'diin a .'mall Ip.ice I ee i found in tin' pl.icir I li, ve vilitcd, and which may
merit mention, as their exiltence in a little time may Ii.ippily b'' loll.

After marriage, the bride immediately walks round the chuich, unattended by the
bridegroom. 1 he precaution of Inolening every knot about the new-joined pair is
flridtly obferved, for feat* of the penalty denoiinceil in the former volumes. It mull be
remarked that the cuflom is obferved evtn in France, /ituer Piii^uiiUtta being a coni-
mon phrafe for difappointmentsof this nature.

Matrimony is avoided in the month of January, which is called in the Erfe the cold
month ; but what is more fingnl.r, the ceremony is avoided even in the tnlivdiing
month of May. Perhaps they might have cau;;ht this luj)erlliiion from the Romans,
who had the lame dread of entering into the nuptial date at that leafon ; for the amo-
rous Ovid informs us,

N'(C vidii.x tx'.!'"! tat'fm, ntc virgin's npfa
'rt'inpora, ijtia: r.u|>nc n')u diuttirf.a fnii.

U.K.- i)ij')<iiic ill- r;iil.i, li te piovcih.i l.unjui.t,
Miiili maias Maiu nubcrc vului a.ijt.

I'jlt;, V.

•J'7-

♦ C*f,.r, dc I'll Ciril. l.T). iii.

t III \ita Seven'.

M.i

rCNNANT S tBCOND TOUR IN 8C0TI.AN0.

No tit^cii tlicii (liall burn i for ii«vrr bride.
Wfil in ill frafon, lon^ her blif* cnjav'il. ,

If yoii arc fund of pro\mht, atwiya Uv

383

Nu lafa provct ihrifiy, who ii wc(i in May.

After baplifin, the full inciu that the company tallea is crowcHe, a mixture of meal
nnd water, or meal and ale thoroughly mixed : of this every perfun takes three fpoon-
fulls.

The mother never fcts about any work till fho has been kirlced. In the church of Scot-
land there h no ceremony on the occafion ; but the woman, attended by fome of her
neighbourHjRoes into the church, fomctimcs in Iervice-time,but oftener when it is empty j
coes out ajjain, furrounds it, rcfrclhcs herfclf at fome pubiic-houfe, and then returns
hoiuc. Ik'Ibre tliis ceremony Iho is looked on as unclean, never is permitted to eat
wiih the family ; nor will any one eat of the viduals flie has drcded.

It has happened that, after baplifm, the flither has placed a balket filled with bread
and cheefe on the potliook that impended over the fire in the middle of the room,
which the company fit around , and the child is thrice handed acrol's the fire, with the
delign to frudrate nil attempts of evil fpirits or evil eyes. This originally feems to have
bcH'H defigncd as a jjiirification, and of idolatrous origin, as the Ifraelites made; their
children pafs tlirouifli the fire to Moloch. Tlie word ufed for charms in general is colas
or knowlege, a proof of the high repute they were once held in. Other charms were
ftyled paiders, a word taken from the Pater nojkr. A necklace is called padreuchain,
becaufe on turning every bead they ufed one of thefc liders. Other charms agaui are
called toifgeuls, from the ufe of particular verfes of tiie gofpcl.

The fupcrftition of making pilgrimages to certain wells or chapels is flill preferved :
that to St. Phillan's is much in vogue ; and others again to different places. The ob-
jed is relief from the diforders mankind labour under. In fome places the pilgrims
only drink of the water ; in others they undergo immerfion.

A riighlamler, in order to protedt himfelf from any harms apprehended from tlie
fairy tribe, will draw round liiir.felf a circle witli a fapling of the oak. This may be a
relique of druidifm, and only a continuation of the refpedt paid to the tree held in fuch
veneration by thepriedhuoil of our ancedors.

They pay great attention to their lucky and unlucky days. The Romans could not
be more attentive on fimilar otc.ifions; and iurcly the Highlandcrmay bi," excufed the
fuperliition, lince Augullus * could fay that he never went abroad on the day following
the Niifuliiia, nor began any ferious undei (.iking on ihe Nona, and that merely to avoid
the unlucky omen. The Scoiiifli mountaiiiLers (.deem the 14th of May unfortunate,
and the day of the week that it has happened to fall on. Thus Thuiiday is a black day
for the prcfent year.

They arc alio very claflical in obfervuig what they fird meet on tho commencement
of a journey. They confuler the looks, garb, and ciiaraiEler of the fird pcrfon they fee.
If he has a good countenance, is decently clad, ar.d has a fair reputation, they rejoice in
the omen ; if the contrary, they proceed with fears, or return home, and begin their
journey a fccond time.

The beltein, or the rural facrifice, on the firfl: of May O. S., has been mentioned
before. Hallow eve is alfo kept facred : as foon as it is dark, a perfon fets (iro [o a
bufli of broom fadened round a pole, and, attended with a crowd, runs about the village.
He then flings it down, keeps great quantity of coinbuilible matters in it, and makes a
threat bunlire. A whole trail is thus illuminated at the fume time, and makes a line

IHf

1 ■

11
i'. ■'■■ij

ill!

1:'

I (Ml

• SuttouIuBj vit. Aug. c. (jz.

appearance.

3*4

pbnmant'8 second tour m scotlawd.

appearance. The carrying of the fiery pole appears to be a rdiqiie of (Iruidifm ; for,
lays Dodlor Boriafe *^ fares preferre was efteemed a fpecies of pai^ai.ilin, toibiiliien by
the GalHc councils, and i\\^ accfnfores facularum were condemned to capital puuifhaicnt,
as if they facrificed to the devil.

The Highlanders form a fort of almanack or prefage of the weather of the cnfuiiig
year in the following manner: They make obfervation on twcK'e days, beginning at
the lall of December, and hold as an infallible rule, tl>at whatfoover weather happens
on each of thofe days, the fame will prove to agree in the corrcfpondent months. Thus,
January is to anfwer to the weather of December the jiil ; February to that of January
ift ; and fo with the reft. Old people (till pay great attention to this augury.

To thefe fuperftitions may be added certain cuftouis now worn out, which were pe-
culiar to this country.

In old times the great Highland families fent their heir, as foon as he was weatieJ,
to fome wealthy tenant, who educated him in the hardy manner of the country, at his
own expence. When the fofter-father rellored the child to his parents, he always ftriit
with him a number of cows, proportioned to his abilities, as a mark of the fcnfe he had
of the honour done him. A ftrong attachment ever after fubfifted between the two fa-
milies : the whole family of the foiler-father was received under the protcdion of the
chieftain, and held in the higheft elleem.

To this day the greater chieftains are named by their clans from fome of their an-
ceftors, eminent for llrength, wifdom, or valour. Thus the Duke of Argyle is ftylcd
Mac-chailean mhoir, the fon of the great Colin. Lord Breadalbane, Mac-chaileau
mhic Dhonachi, the fon of Colin, fi^n of Duncan. The head of the family of Dunftaf-
fage, Mac-Innais an Duin, or the fon of Angus of the hill.

Moft of the old names of the Highlanders were derived from fome perfonal property.
Thus Donald or Don-fliuii fignifies brown eye ; Fin-lay, white head ; Dun-can, brown
head \ Colin, or Co-aluin, beautiful ; and Gorm-la, a blue eye.

The old Highlanders were fo remarkable for their hofpitality that their doors were
always Uft open, as if it were to in\ite" the hungry travellers to walk in and partake of
their meals ; i)ut if two crofs flicks were feen at the door, it was a fign that the family
was at dinner, and did not dcfire more guefls. In this cafe the churl was held in the
higheft contempt j nor would the moft prcfling neceflity induce the paflenger to turn
in. Great hofpitality is ftill preferved through all parts of the country to the ftranger,
whofe chara^er or recommendations claim the moft diftant pretenfions. But this virtue
muft ceafe, or at beft leflen, in proportion as the inundation of travellers increafes : a
quick fuccefllon of newguefts will be found to be a trouble and an expence unfupport-
able ; but they will have this confolation, that good inns will be the coafcquence even
of a partial fubverfion of the hofpitable fyftem.

Strift fidelity is another diftingui/hing charafter of the Highlanders. Two inftances,
taken, from diftant periods, will be fufficicnt proofs of the high degree in which they
pofll'fs this Oiining virtue. In the reign of James V., when the Clan chattan had raifed
a dangerous infurreftion, attended with all the barbarities ufual in thofe days, the Earl
of Murray raifed his people, fupprefled the iniurgents, and ordered two hundred of the
principal prifoners to execution. As they were led one by one to the gallows, the Earl
offered them a pardon in cafe they would dilcover the lurking place of their chieftain ;
but they unanimoufly told him, that were they acquainted with it, no fort of punifliment
fhould ever induce them to be guilty of a breach of truft to their leader f.

• Antiq. Cornwall, 136.

f Lcfly de origine, moribus, et rebus gellit Scotorunit

405.

The

PEKN ant's second TOUR IN fiCOTLAl>JD.

Tlio other example is taken from more recent and mercenary clays. la the year
1746, when the young pretender preferred the prefervation of an unhappy life by au
inglorious flight, to the honour of falling heroically with his faithful followers in the
tield of Culloden, he for five months led the life of a fugitive, amidft a numerous and
various fet of mountaineers. He trufted his peri'on often to the loweft and mod diflb-
lutc oi the people ; to men pinched with poverty, or accuflomed to rapine ; yet neither
the fear of punifhnient for allifUng the wivtched wanderer, nor the dazzHng allurement
of the reward of thirty thoulimd pounds, could ever prevail on any one to violate the
laws of hol'pitality, or be guilty of a breach of truft. They extricated him out of every
diiliculty; they completed his deliverance, preferving his life for mortifications more
alllicfting than the dreadful hardfhips he fuftaincd during his long flight.

Soon after entering the parifli of Mouline, leave on the riglit Edradour. At thi:;
place, on the top of a fteep den, arc the remains of a circular building, called the Black
caiUe, about fixty feet diameter within fide, and the walls about eight feet thick. It is
fuppofed to have been inhabited by an Knglifli baron who married a Scots heiie's in the
reign of Kdward I. There is another about a mile wofl: from the village of Mouline,
near Balyou'an, and a third on an eminence fouth of the former. One of thefe an-
fwers to another fimilar at Killichange, in the parifli of Logierait. Souie conjcfture
thefe round buildings to have been intended fo/ making figuals with fires in cafe of
invafions ; c^hsrs think them to have been Tigh Falky, or a llorehoufe for the conccal-
nient of valu»;';'.e efFefts in cafe of fudden inroads. The firll is a very probable opinion,
as I can trace, approaching towards the weft fea, a chain of thefe edifices, one within
fight of the next, for a very confiderable way. It is not unlikely, if fearch was made,
but that they may even extend to the eaft fea, fo as to form a feriec of beacons crofs this
part of the kingdom.

My worthy fellow-voyager, Mr. Stuart, has, from remarks on feveral in the neigh-
bourhood of Kiliin, enabled me to trace them for feveral miles. To begin with the
mod eaftern, next to thofe I have mentioned, there is one on the hill of Drummin,
oppofite to Taymouth, on the fide of the vale ; another lies within view, above the
church of Foriingal : on the hill l)ruim-an-timhoir is a third, oppofite to Alt-mhuic, eaft
ofMiggerny: one under the houfe of Ca.Tiiy, called Caftal-mhic-ntil; and another,
about iialf a mile weft, of the name of Caftal-a-chon-bhaican, a crooked ftone called
Con-bhacan, being ercfted about two hundred feet eaft .'rom it, and fo named, from a
tradition that theNimrods of old times tied their dogs to it with a leathern thong, when
they returned from the chace. The figure of this building dilFers from the others,
being oval* : the greateft length within the wall is feventy-one feet ; the breadth forty;
the tliickncfs at the fides twelve feet, at the ends only eight. The door at the eaft end
low and narrow, covered with a Hag.

But the moft entire is that llylcd Caflal-an dui, lying at the foot of the hill Grianan,
on the farm of C'.adily, three miles well from Miggerny. On the north-weft fide is a
ftone twenty-nine feet long, and nine thick, which fupplies part of the building on the
outfide. The form of this building is a circle : the thicknefs from eleven to twelve
feet ; and within the place where the great ftono (lands, is an additional ftrength of
wall, about eight f'ct thick. The moft complete place is nine feet and a half high : tlio
diameter within the wall is forty-five feet. The greateft part of the ftoncs ufed in this
edifice arc from three to fix feet long, and from one and a half to three feet thick.

• Tlic i'ayti.s na ain rif;lif, ov t!ie \vi;rk of one nii^ht, cnj^ravctl book iii. tab. viii. of Mr. Wi^hl'l

Loiuhiatui, is i'litiil.ir tu lln'ii.

mm k

1:^^';! I

i;d

VGl.. 111.

About

'iN -'■ ',/ii,

38<J pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

About three hundred yards weft from this is another, called Caflal-an-Deirg. A
mile farther weft is another, of the name of Fiam-nain-boinean ; and laftly, within fight
of this, five miles diftant, on the fide of a hill called Bcnchaftal, is one more, the moft
wederly of any we have yet had intelligence of. Moft, if not all of thefe, lie in Glen-
Lion. The tradition of the inhabitants refpe^ling them is included in thefe lines :

Da chaiftcaKdru^ a!(r Frann
Ann an crom-ghlcann nar clach.

That is, «* Fingal, the king of heroes, had twelve towers in the winding valley of the
grey headed ftoncs."

I mud mention two others, that are out of the line of thefe, yet might be fubfervient
to their ufe. One iits on the north fide of Loch-Tay, about five miles eaft of Killin,
abo\e the public road. The other called Caifteal Baraora, on the fouth fide, about a
quarter of a mile from the lake, and a meafurcd mile eaft of Achmore, the feat of Mr.
Campbel, of Achalader.

On the top of a great eminence, a furlong from this, are the remsdns of a vaft in-
cIoiuM, a (iron^ hold, of the fame nature with that I faw in GIen>elg*, to whkh the
inhabitants might i v've their cattle in time of invafion, on the fignals given from the
round towers. The form tends to an oval ; the greateft length it three hundred
ard fixty feet ; the breadth one hundred and twenty. No part of the wall is entire,
but the Oones that formed it lie in ruins on the ground to the breadth of fifteen feet.
Within, near the eaft end, is the foundation of a fklanffular building, thirty.eight feet
long, ttn broad. This poft commands a vaft view of the weft end of Breadalbane,
nlmoft tn the head of the vallies of Glen.Dochart and Gten-Lochy ; and at a very fmall
diftnnce f um it is feen the hill of Drummin, firom whofe round tower the fignal might
eafily be received.

The round edifices of this internal part of Scotland, and thofe of the coaft and of the
iilands, feem to hare been erected for the fame purpofe, but probably by different ar-
chirt £ts. The former arc the labours of much lefs (kilful workmen ; the ftones more
rude, the fecings lefs exaft and elegant, but not inferior to the manner now in ufe in
the common dry walled houfcsofthe country.

I cannot but tliink that all thefe buildings were originally conftrufted by the natives ;
and that thofe fo frequent in the iflands, and of fuch fuperior workmanfhip, might have
been rebuilt by the Danes and Norwegians, on the fame model, but more artificially
than thofe they found on the fpot. From all the enquiries I have maJe among the
naiivtT. of Scandinavia, I do not learn that any fuch buildings are known there, a fingie
inftance excepted on the Sualeft)ergtt a mountain half a Norwegian league dilUmt from
Drontheim. If no more are difcovered, it is probable that the invaders did not brin^^
this mode of building with them. But they might have confidered the ufe and conve-
niency of thefe flrudlurea, and adopted the plan, making fuch improvemcius as a|>>
peared to t'^m neceffar)*. Thus, in fome they formed walls, with galleries within ; and
in others, erefted fmall buildings in the areas J, to proted them from tho inclemency
of the weather ; for being in an enemy's country, the Danes were oblii; d to uie them
as little garrifons : on the contrary, the natives never might confider them in any other

• ViiyajTcto th« Hebrides, p 3^6 — p. j6i of thi» voJunre.

f 'I'hc hiiilciiiij alluded to was thr work rf King Suerre, , who died in IJOJ. ahoiit a huciilt'il A'.i] f.vir
jtiTH'Ur ihtfe iflcs wrre made fubjeft to Norway by Maj^ui the rjareloottd. iiucrre iiilj^ui ihi.ur.iit
ha»f I '-III itic modrl of this fingle lower from the Hcbr'iii*.

( Vide the Voj.^ge to the Mcbiiikit, p. 219. 291, 358. - p. 265 of this volume.

5 l'g''t

pennant's second tour in SCOTLANto.

3^7

'ig'it than as flioit and temporary retreats from an invading enemy. It is alfo pretty
ortain, that tiie Danes either never reached fome of the places where we now fee thefe
t-uildings, or at leafl: never made any more than a fliort inroad. On the other hand,
they poflefled the idands and fome of the coalls for a long feries of yearsj and had ample
time fo fo m any improvements that were agreeable to them.

A few other antiquilies are alfo found in this parifli. On a plain below Dirnanean
in Strath- Ardle. is a circulai- mcimt, compofed of fmall round (tones, mixed with earth,
coated with turf, on whofe fummit is an ereft four-fided ftone, of a confiderable fize.
This fcems a fepulchral memorial of fome perfon of rank, whofe urn is probably be-
neath. Another ilone of the fame kind is alfo to be feen at fohie diftance from it, at
the edge of the river.

At the eaft erid of the fame plain is the appearance of a grave, fixteen feet long,
with a large ftone at each end. In the language of the country this is ftyled the grave
of high blood, from a tradition that a Danifh prince was ilain and interred here. It is
fufpedcd that a (kirmifli might have been fought here, and the flain in general buried
in this place.

Of caftles of a more modern date, this pariih boafts only one, in the hollow of Mou-
line, of a fquare form, built with bad whin ftone, cemented with hot lime, fo ftrong as
I'carcely to be broken. Two round towers yet remain, and a tranfverfe wall. The
vedigti of the ditch is ftill to be traced. The inhabitants afcribe the building to one of
the Cummins ; but Sir James Balfour •, with more certainty, gives it to Thomas of
Galloway, Earl of Athol, and acquaints us that it was the refidence of the ancient Earls.

Proceed on my way ; and, after a fhort ride through a barren and dreary traft, am
again enraptured with the charms of Faikally, which appears like fairy ground, amiciil
the wild environs of craggy mountains, (kirted with woods ; it is feated in a beautiful
meadow, on one fide bordered with woods, on the other bounded by thei Tumel, rival
in fize to the Tay, which at a fmall diftance appears again guftiing from between the
wooded rocks, and tumbling down a precipice of great height, to water thefe delicious
fcenes.

Salmons annually force their paflage even up this furious catarafl, and are taken here
in a moft artlefs manner : a hamper, faftened to a wicker-rope, pinned into a cleft of
the rock by a ftick, is flung into the ftream : now and then a fifli, in the fall from its
effort to get up, drops into this little ware. It is not to be fuppofed that the owner can
enrich himfelf by the capture : in hGt, the chance of his good fortune is hired out at the
annual rent of one pound fourteen fhillings.

At other times the fiflier flings into the ftream below a crow-foot, or caltrop, faf«
tened to a long rope. On this inftrument the falmons often transfix themfetVes, and
are drawn up to land. Another method, of much rifque to the adventurer, is at timet
pradifed. A perfon feats himfelf on the brink of the precipice, above the catara&s,
and fixes one foot in the noofe of a wicker-cord : here he expefts the leap of a falmon,
armed with a fpear : the moment the fifh rifes, he darts his weapon at the hazard of fall-
ing into the water by his own effort, or the ftruggle of his prey.

A little to the eaft of this h\\ the Ganie unites itfelf with the Tumel, a river thqt
rifcs from a lake thirteen computed miles above Blair. The noted pafs of Killicrankie
is formed by the hills that impend over it on each fide ; the waters of the Garrie rufli-
ing beneath in a deep, darkfome, and horrible channel ; in the laft century a pafs of
much danger and difficulty, a path hanging over a tremendous precipice, threatening

• MS.
*, D 2

deftru&ion

■ '1:1

388 pennant'^ SUCONl) TOUR IN bCOTl.AND.

ileftnicllon to tlu> loaft fiilfo (lep of the travclL-r ; iit prcfoiit a fmo road, formed by the
Jbldiory 'ont by govonimcnt, and cncourajfcd by lixponce per day addt'd to the pay,
j^ivcs an cafy acccfs to tlic rumotcr Highlands. A line arcli over the Garrie juuis the
once impervious (ides.

Near the north end of this pafs, in its unimproved and arduous ftate, on an open
fpacc, was fought the celeljrated battli) of Killicrankie ; when the gallant VifcouiU Dun-
dee fell in llie moment of vidory, and with him all (lie iiopesof the abdicating monarch.
The enemies of this illuilrious hero made his eulogy : Mackay, the defeated genenil, in
the courfe of his flight, pronouncing the death of his antagonilt : " Was Dundee alive,"
favs he, " my retreat would not have been thus uninterrupted." His body was inter-
red in the church of Blair. His glory required no infcription to perpetuate it j yet the
elegance of his epitaph, compofed by Uodlor Archibald Pitcairn, merits repetition, doing
equal honour to the hero and poet :

Ukirne ScotoniT, potuit qtio fofplie folo

Liberia? pati ix falva fuiliV tir.c.
Te morienlc iiovos iici t-jjil Si:otiii civcM :

Acccpitquc 110VO6 lie moriciite Dfos.
Ilia tibi riipcrcflc iiegat, tu nnn potrb illi,

Ergo Caledonia: nomcti inane \a!c'.
Tuque vale gentis prifc* fortifiime duiflor,

C)ptime icotonimatque ultinie, Giamt, vale.

O la(l and bed of Scots ! who didft maintain
Thy country's freedom from a foreign reign ;
New people fill the land, now th«y are gone ;
New gods the temples, and new kings the throne :
Scotland and thou did each in other live,
Thou could'll not her, nor cou'd file thtc furvlve ;
Farcwel, ihou, living, that didll fiipport the iUte,
And cou'dll not fall, but by thy counlty's fate. Dr. vhEv.

Auguft 21. Continue my ride to Athol-houfe, in the Blair of Athol, featcd on an
eminence above a plain watered by the Garrie ; a molt outrageous llream, whofe ra-
vages have greatly deformed the valley by the vaft beds of gravel it has left behind.

1 he houfe or callle is of uncertain antiquity : the okiell part is called Cummin's
tower, bting fuppofed to have been built by John, commonly called de Strathbogy, who
enjoyed the title of Athol in right of his wife. It became the principal feat of his fuc-
cetfors. In 1644 the Marquis of Montrofe pofleiFed himfelf of it, and was jouied by a
large body of the Athc.l Highlanders, to whofe bravery he was indebted for the victory
at "iibbirmoor. In the troubles of 1653, the place was taken by dorm by Colonel
Daniel •, an officer of Cromwell, who, unable to remove a magazine of provifion lodged
there, dcilroycd it by powder. In 1689, it occafioned one of the greateft events of
the time, being the taufe that brought on the celebrated battle of Killicrankie. An
officer beloi-.ging to Vifcount Dundee flung himfelf into it, and reliifing to tleliver it to
Lord Murray, Icn to the Marquis of Athol, was by him ihreatencil v>ith a fiego. His
lorddiip, to eilcct the reduction, aliembled a body of forces and marched towards the
place. Dundee know ihe importance of preferving this pafs, and the communications
wiih the Highland clans, in whom he had the grcatell confidence f. With his ufiial
expcditi«n he joined the garrifon ; and in a few days alter ct'iicluded h's gloriovis life
wi;li tlie wcll-kiiov.n defeat of the royal forces under iMackay.

V,l.;n!c>.k,5Sj.

f E.i:3'r.!5's Me:ncir3; 95:

The

PKNNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND. 389

The lift fn^ge it experienced was in '746, when it was gallantly defended by Sir
Andrew Agiuw againfl the rebels, who retired from before it a few weeks preceding
the batth:" of Ciilloden. As foon as peace was eft;ibli(hed, a confiderable part of that
fortrcl's was reduced in height, and the infule inod magnificently furniflied.

J'hc views in front of the hoiifc arj planted with fo much form, as to be far from
plcafnig, but the piiSihirefque walks among the rocks on the other fide cannot fail to
attratt:\ the admiration of every traveller of talie. The late Noble owner, with great
jiui>;nient, but with no lefs difficulty, cut, or rather blafted out, walks along the va(t
rocks and precipices that bound the rivrr? Banovy and Tilt. The waters are violent,
and form in various places cafcades of great beauty. Pines and trees of feveral fpecies
wave ioleninly over the head, and darken the romantic fcene. The place appeared to
great advantage : for the Highlands, as well as other beauties, have their good and their
bad days, 'J'heglen, thr.t in 1769 I thought deficient in water, now by reafon of the
rains, looked to great advantage, and finiflied finely the rich fcenery of rock and wood.

The York cafcadc, a mile from the houfe, merits a vifit. It firll appears tumbling
amidll the trees, at the head of a fmall glen. The waters are foon joined by thofe of
another that dart from the fide. Thefe united waters fall into a deep chafm, appear
again, and, after forming four more cataracts, are loft in the 'I'ilt, which likewiie dif-
appcars, having for a confiderable fpace excavated the rock we ilood on ; running in-
vifible, with a roaring torrent, before it emerges to day.

!t is but of late that the North Britons became fenfible of the beauties of their coun-
try ; but their fearch is at prefent amply rewarded. Very lately a cataraft of uncomnioa
height was difcovered on the Bluer, a large ftream about two miles north from this
place. It is divided into five falls, vifihie at once, and in a line with each other : the
four uppermoft form together a fall of a hundred feet ; the fifth alone is nearly the
fame height ; fo that when the whole appear in front, in high floods, they fecin one
fiieet of near two hundred feet : a fight icarcely to be paralleled in Europe.

Trees of all kinds profjicr here greatly : larches of twenty years growth yield plank
of the breadth of fifteen inches. Tlie late Duke annually leifencd tlie np.kcdnofs of the
hills, and extended his plantations far and wide. His attention to the culture of rhubarb
mud not pafs unnoticed : for his benevolent defign of rendering cominon-aud cheap
this ufcful medicine, is bUll with the utmoft fuccels. The roots which he had culti-
vated in the light foils, fimilar to thole of the Tartarian dcferts, the native place, in-
creafe to a valt lize : fome when frefli having been found to weigh fil'ty pounds, and
to be equal in fmell, talle, and efl'eft to thofe we import at an enormous expence to
our country. On being dried, they flirink to one quarter of their ori.'inal weight.
There is reafon to fuppofe that the Scotch rhubarb may be fiiperior in virtue to the
foreif^n, the lad being gathered in all feafons, as the Mongall hunters chance to pafs.
by. They draw up the roots indifcrimiiiatoly, pierce them at one end, and fling theni
on their belts, and then leave them to dry in their tents without further care.

Aug. 22. Leave Athol houfe. Return by Fafkally along the great ro:id to the junc-
tion of the Tumel with the Tay. Nature hath formed, on each fide of the v.de, mul-
titude of terrafles, fome with gralVy fide, others wooded. Art hath contributed to
give this road an uncommon magnificence : fuch parts, which want cloathing are
planted not only with the ufual trees, but with flowering flirubs ; anti tb.e fido« of the
way are foddod in the noatelt manner. In a little time tlie whole way from Dalna-
cardoch to Perth, near forty-five miles, will appear like a garden ; if our fifter Peg goes
on at this rate, 1 wifli that, from a confellld flattern, (he docs not become downright

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39°

pbknant's second tour in scotlamo.

On approaching Dunkeld, the vale becomcB very narrow : at laft loaves only fpace
for the road and the river, which runs between hills covered with hanging woods. The
town of Dunkeld is feated on the north fide of the Tay ; is fuppofed to take its name
from the word Dun a mount, and Gael the old inhabitants, or Caledonians, and to
have been the Cajirum Caledonia^ and the Opp'tdum Caledoniorum of the old writers *.
At prefent I could not hear of any vcfliges of Roman antiquity. The town is fniall,
has a lliare of the linen manufadure, and is much frequented in fummer by invalids,
who refort here for tlii; benefit of drinking goats' milk and whey.

This place in very early days became the feat of religion. Conftanline III. king
of the Pitts, at the indance of Adamnanus is faid to have founded here a munaflery
of Culdees, in honour of St. Columba, about the year yzy : thefe religious had wives
according to the cuftom of the eaftern church, only they were prohibited from coha-
biting dum vicijjim adimnijirartmt. About 1 127 that pious prince David I. converted
it into a cathedral, difblaced the Culdees, and made Gregory their abbot, the fird
bifhop, who obtained from Pope Alexander 111. ample proteftion and confirmation f.
The revenue at the Reformation was 1505I. 10s. 4d. Scots, befides a large contribu-
tion of different forts of grain \.

The prefent church was built by Robert Arden, the uth bifhop, who was interred
in it, about the year 1436 §. Except the choir, wliich ferves as the parifli church,
the reft exhibits a fine ruin, amid the folemn fcene of rocks and woods. The extent
within is 1 20 feet by 60. The body is fupported by two rows of round pillars, with
fquared capitals. The arches Gothic.

In the veftry-room is a large monument of the Marquis of Athol, who died in 1703.
It is hung with the arms of all the numerous connedions of tiiis illuftrious houfe,
which, by its great accedor Sir James Stuart, called the Black Kniiiht of Lorn, and firlt
Earl of Aihol of the prefent family, may boaft of being related to every crowned head
in Europe, excepting the Grand Segnior.

In the body of the church is a tomb with the recumbent cfUgics in armour of Alex-
ander Stuart, Earl of Buchan, third fon of Robert II. by Elizabeth More ; a perfon of
moft uncommon impiety || ; and for his cruelty jullly ftyled the Wolf of Badenoch.
Yet his epitaph, when entire, ran thus :

" Hic j.icet bcnai memoriai, Alexander Senefcallus comes de Buchan ct dominusde
Badenoch, qui obiit 24 Novcmb. 1394 "

The catliedral was demoiifhed in 1559 : the monuments were deftroyedin 1698, by
the garrifon that was placed there at that time. I looked in vain for the tomb of Mar-
jory Scot, who died at Dunkeld, January 6th, 1728. Her epitaph was compofed by
Alexander Pcnnicuik, and is faid to have been infcribed in memory of her longevity.
It thus addreffcs the reader :

Stop, pafTenper, until tny life you read.
The living may get knowledge from the dead.
Five limci live years I liv'U a virgin life ;
Five times five years I liv'd a happy wife ;
Ten times five years 1 liv'd a widow cliade ;
Nov.- wearied of lhi« mortal life I reft.
P-etwixt my cradle and my grave were fe«n
Eigiit mighty kings of Scotland and a queen.

♦ Bopthius, lib. i« p. 167. Buchanaa, lib. ii. c. n. f Keith, 46.

t Maitland, Hill. Scot. i. 2^4. } MonteitU'i Epitaphs, 229.

i 4th Edit. Tour Scot. t^-j.

Fuur

MNNANT's second tour, in SCOTLAND. 391

Four limci five years a commonwealth I faw,
Ten times the fiibjcAs ri(e againll the law )
Thrice did I fee old prelacy piili'd down,
And thrice the cloak wa» hunibled by the gown.
An end of Stuart's race I faw, nay more,
I faw my country fold for Englifhore.
Such dcfolation* in my time have been ;
I have an end of all pcrfciRion fecn.

The great ornament of this place is the Duke of Athol's extenfive improvements,
and magnificent plantations, bounded by crags with fummits of a tremendous heig?it.
The gardens extend along the fide of the river, and command from different parts
the mod beautiful and pidurefque views of wild and 'gloomy nature that can be con^
ceived.

Afcend the hill, and from a fouthem brow have a view of a chain of fmall lakes^
on whofe banks is Leagh Wood, an eftate granted by James III. to John Stuart, Earl
of Athol, as a reward for his vi£lory over the great Macdonald of the HI«*s.

Return towards the north, along an extenfive flat, bounded on the right by vafl
and precipitous crags. On this plain is planted abundance of rhubarb, by way of trial
whether it will fucceed as well in thefe wild tracts as in the manured foils. Walk
thriMigh a narrow pafs, bounded by great rocks. One retains the name of the King's
feat *, having been the place where the Scottifh monarchs placed themfelvcs, in order
to SreGt their fhafts with advantage at the flying deer driven that way for their amufe-
ment. A chace of this kind had very nearly prevented the future miferies of the un-
happy Mary Stuart. The ftory is well told by William Barclay^ in his t^eatife contra
Monarchomachos : it gives a lively piduie of the ancient manner of hunting ; and, on
that account, will perhaps be acceptable to the reader in an Englifh drefs.

" I once had a fight of a very extraordinary fort, which convinced me of what I •
have faid. In the year 1563, the Earl of Aihol, a prince of the blood royal, had,
with much trouble and vafl expence, a hunting-match for the entertainment of our
mod illullrious and mofl gracious Queen. Our people call this a royal hunting. I
was then a young man, and was prefent on that occafion: two thou fand Highlamiers^ .
or wild Scotch, as you call them here, were employed to drive to the hunting ground
all the deer from the woods and hills of AthoU, Badenocb,' Marr, Murray, and the
countries about. As thefe Highlanders ufe a hght drefs, and are very fwift of foot,
they went, up and down fo nimbly, that in kfs than two months time they brought
together two thoufand red deer, befides roes and fallow deer. The Queen, the great
men, and a number of others, were in a glen when all thefe deer were brought before
them ; believe me, the whole body moved forward in fomething like battle order.
This fight dill drikes me, and ever^ill drike me; for they had a leader whom they
followed clofe wherever he moved.

" This leader was a very fine dag with a very high head : this fight delighted th^Queen
very much, but fhe fooii had caufe for fear ; upon the Earl's ^ who had been from his
early daysaccudomedto fuch fights) addreffing her thus, * Do you ob&rve that dag
who is foremod of the herd, there is danger from that dag, for if either fear Or rage
(hould force him from the ridge of that- hill, let every one look to himfelf, ior none of
us will be out of the way of harm ; for the reft wHl' follow this une, and having thrown
us under foot, they will open a paflfage to this bill behind us.' What happened .a mo-

* ny mitlake the view of this place, iathe firft and fecond edit, of the TouTy i* caUed the King's fe.it,
near Ulatr.

ment

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iiimmiaijimii 1

mmu!L";.':!,;;;a

,1$

19!

PliNNANT 3 8EC0ND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

mcnt alter confirmed this opinion : for the Queen ordered one of the heft dogs to be
let loofe on one of the deer; this the i.\o^ purfues, the leading ft;»g frighted, he flies hy
tlie fame u.iy ho had come there, the reil ru(h after him and break out where the
ihickjil body cf tlic lHi;h!,indvn; was ; they had nothing for it but to throw themfelves
flat ou tl;j Ii.'ath, w.d to all iw the doer to pafs over th.m. It was told tlie Queen lliat
feveral ot the Iligldanders had been wouniL'd, and that two or three had been killed
outri;_;ht ; and that the vholc body had got oil", iv.ul not the Highlander;;, by their Ikill
in hunting, fallen upon a lh\uagcin to ci:t oJl' the rear from the main body. It was
of thvil'e that had been feparattd that the ( )ue.i.'s dogs and thofe ol tiie nobility made
ilaugliter. There were killed that day 3^1^ deer, with five wolves, and fome roes."

l-rom the fummit of the King's feat is a beautiful profpifl to ih^' nordi of Straih-Tay ;
and to the iiuith, a lliil finer one 01" the winding of the river, through a tract cnriehed
with corn-fields, and varied with Irequent woods ; \m\.\, al a dillance, the celebrated
vood of Birnum, and hil! of Dunfinane.

On dcfcending into the gardens, vifit the houfe, or rather villa, belonging to the
DukeofAthol; fmall, but furniflied with peculiar eh'gance ; the wind. avs arc finely
painted by Mr. Singleton, an elcve of the houfe, whole performances do him nmch
credit.

Crofs the Tay, to vifit the improvements on the banks of the great torrent Bran,
which ruflics impetuoufly over its rugged bottom. All this part is a mixture of culti-
vation, with vaft rocks fpringing out of the ground? among whicii are conducted
variety of walks, bordered with flowers and flowering flirubs, and adorned with num-
bers of little buildings, in the ftyle of the oriental gardens.

Continue my ride on the welt fide of the Tay, and loon quit this augufl entrance
into the Scottiflj Alps. The mountains gradually fink, the plain expands, and agri-
culture increafes. Arrive in the plain of Stormont, a part of Stratlmiore, or the great
plain, being the nioft cxtcnfive of any in North Britain, bounded on the north by the
Grampian hills, on the fouth by thofe of Ochil, and of Seidlow, and on the eaft by the
fea ; 11 retching at one extremity within a fmall diftance of Sterling, at the other to
Stonchive in the Merns, but dillinguiflied in diiferent places by ditferent names.

Pafs by a neat fettlement of weavers, called, from the inhabitants, Spittlefields. This
country is very populous, full of fpinners, and weavers of buckrams and coarfe cloths
orftentings; of which twelve millions of yards are annually exported from Perth.
Much flax is raifed here, and the country is full of corn, but not fuflicicnt to fup-
ply the numerous inhabitants. Late at night reach Inch-tuthel, the modem Del-
vin, the feat of John Mackenzie * Efq. where I found a continuation of Highland
hofpitality.

The fituation of this houfe is of ftrangc Angularity ; on a flat of a hundred and fifty-
four Scotch acres f, regularly flecp on every fide, and in every part ol equal height ;
that is to fay, about fixty feet above the great plain of Stormont, which it Itands on.

• Mr. Mackenzie's father, wlio was a ynnd aiitiqiiary, litld this to have b;'cn pait of tfir land (jrniitod
by Kenneth to the gallant Hay, ilie hero of tlie battle of Loncarty, wliofe dtlcendants poll'circcl u f mr or
live centuries.

f The difference between the mtafiircs of land in Scotland and thofe iiftd in England, is in proportion
to the Scots fall of fix Sjols dU Icn^rili and the Erj^lifli perch, which by llatutc a in linf;ili Civc yjids aixl
a half, whereby the acres (land thus: one Scots acre if, one acre one rood and one ptreh Ln^^lifli ; ico
Scots are 1 ?5 acres 2 roods ;3 perches : fu that the proportion in nearly as four is to five. It i» to be ob-
fervcd, that there is no ilatnlc tor the Scots chain, ab there is for the Englith ; only a very old ciillom, wliicli
lecms to have been br(inj;ht troni the Parii Royal Arpent, which is nearly the faiuc with' that ulcd at pre-
kat in Scotland, and called the bcoii acre.

•■Ml 'Tho

PBHNANt's second TOtTA IN SCOTLAND.

.193"

The figure is alio remarkable, and much better to be exprefled by an engraving than
by any defcription of mine.

Two nations took advantage of this natural rtrength, and fitUatcd thenifelwR on it.
The Picls, the long poflenbrs of tliclb callcrn parts of the kingdom, in all probability
had here an oppidum, or town, I'uch as uncivilized people inhabited in enrly liines ;
often in the tnidft of woods, and fortified all round with a dike. Hero we find the
vclligcs of I'uch a defence, a mound of Hones and earth lunning along the margin of
the llcep, in many places entire, in others, time or accident hath rendered it lefs vifible,
or hath totally ddlroycd it. The ifones were not found on the foot, but were brought
from a place two miles dilbnt, where quarries of the fame kind are flill in ufe.

Another ilike crofics the ground, from margin to margin, in the place it begins to
grow narrow. 'I'his feems intended as the firll defence againd an enemy, (hould the
inhabitants fail in defending their outworks, and be obliged to quit their rtation and
retire to a flronger part. Near the extremity is what I fliould name their citadel ;
for a fmall portion of the end is cut off from the reft by five great d'kes, and as many
deep fofles, and within that is the llrong hold, impregnable againft the neighbouring
nations.

This place had alfo another fecurity which time hath diverted from them : the
river Tay once entirely environed the place, and formed it into an ifland, as the name
in the antient language, which it flill retains, imports ; that of Inch-tuthel, or the ifle
of Tuthel. The river at prefent runs on one fide only ; but there are plain marks on
the north in particular, not only of a channel, but of fomc pieces of water, oblong,
narrow, and pointing in the diredion the Tay had taken, before it had ceafed to in-
fulate this piece of ground. I cannot afcertain the period when its waters confined
themfelvcs to one bed ; but am informed that a grant Hill exifts from one of the
James's of a right of fifliing in the river, at Caput-mac-Athol, caft of the place.

It is not to be imagined that there can be any traces of the habitations of a people
who dwelt in the moll perifliable hovels : but as the mofl barbarous nations paid
more attention to the remains of the dead than to the conveniency of the living, they
formed, cither for the protection of the reliques of their chieftains from infults of
man, or favagc beaft, or for fepulchral memorials, mounts of different fizes. Ancient
Greece and ancient Latium concurred in the fame practice with the natives of this
illand. Patroclus among the Greeks, and Hedlor among the Trojans, received but the
fame funeral honours with our Caledonian heroes, and the aftjes of Dercennus * the
Laurentine monarch had the fame fimplo protedtion. The urn and pall of the Trojan
warrior might perhaps be more fuperb than thofe of a Britifli leader : the rifing monu»
ment of each had the common materials from our mother earth :

The fnowy honen Iiia friends and lirothers place,
With tears collcded, in a golden vafc ;
The golden vafe in purple palls they rolled,
Of foftell texture, and inwrought with gold.
Lall o'er the urn the facred earth they fpread.
And rais'd a tomb memorial of the dead f .

Or, as it Is more ftrongly expreffed by the fame elegant tranflator, in the account of
the funeral of Patroclus :

High in the midH they heap the fwelling bed

Of rifing earth, memorial of the dead \.. » : *

• jTlnild, lib. xi. line 849.
:^ The fame, book xxiii. line ^Kj.
VOI,. III.

f Pope's Hoiner'j Iliad, book xxiv. line 1003.

B -;i

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l^^'^m

3 E

Monun\cnts

394

PPNMANT's SBOONO TOOR in SCOTLAND.

Monuments of this kind are very frequent over the face of this plain : the tumuli
are round, not greatly elevated, and at their baiis furrounded with a fofs. Many bone*
have been found in fome of thefe barrows, neither lodged in (lone cheils nor depofited
in urns.

The Romans, in their couife along this part of Britain, did not negle£l fo fine a ntu<
ation for a (lation. Nutwithdanding tiie great change made by inctofures, by planta*
tion, and by agricuhurc, there are iHil vcftiees of one ftation five hundred yards iquare.
The fide next to Dolvin houfe is barely to oc traced : and part of another borders on
the margin of the bank. There is likewife a fmall fquare redoubt near the edge, facing
the Ead-inch in the Tay, which cohered the (lation on that fide.

The firft %vas once inclufed with a wall fourteen feet thick, whofe foundations are re.
membered by two farmers of the name of Stertan, aged about feventy ; who had received
from their father and grandfather frequent accounts of a(he8, cinders, brick, iron,
utenflls, weapons, and large pieces of lead, having been frequently found on the fpot
in the couffe of ploughing * : and to the weft of this ftation, about thirty years ago,
were difcovered the veftiges of a large building, the whole ground being filled with
fragments of brick and mortar. A re<5langular hollow made of brick is (bll entire : it
is about te« or twelve feet long, three or four feet wide, and five or fix feet deep.
Boethius calls ihis place the Tuhna of the Pi^; and adds, that in their time, it was
a mofl yf)g)km dty } but was deferted and burnt by them on the approach of the
Romans tiptfer Agncola. He alfo informs us, that it bore the name of Inch-tuthel in
his izft'f. The materials from which this hiftorian took the early part of his work are
unknowa ^ us, any further than what we learn from himfelf, that they were records
fent to hiM in 1525 from Jona ; but by whom compiled, remains undifcovered. I do
not doubt his alfertion } nor do I doubt but that fome truths colleflml from traditions
may be fcattcred amidft the innumerable legeiuiary tales, fo abundant in his firft
books. Thb I womU wifli to place among the former, as the a£kual veftiges of two
nations are ftill to be traced on the fpot. I would alfo call it the Orrea of the Ro.
mans, which ike learned Stukely fuppofes to have been Perth, notwithftanding he
places it in his map | north*eaft of the Tay, aad on the very fpot where the prefent
Delvin ftands.

Aug. 24. Leave Delvfa. Crofii the Tay, at the ferry of Caputh. Pafs over a (hort
trad of barren country. On the banks of a fmali rill are velliges of an encampment,
as is fappoCsd, of the Danes, and to have been called from tho(e invaders Gaily Bum,
or the bum of the ft rangers. A little farther, in a very fertile improved country, is
Loncarty, celebrated for the fignal vidory obtained by the Scots, under Keimeth III §,
ever the Danes, by means of the gallant peafant Hay, and his two fons, who, with no
other weapons than yokes which they fnatched from their oxen then at plough, firft
put a ftop to the fli]^t of their countrymen, and afterwards led them on to conqueft.
Thefe fpirited lines are a perfed pidure of the adion :

Quo niirft, civet ? Heia 1 hodi obvcrtite vultui !

Non pudet infami vertcre tcrga fuga i
Hoftis (go vobU ; ant fcrnim vertlte in hoftem.

Dixit, et armatut dux prseit ipfc jugo.
Quiii qui ibat vaftum condenfa per agmina Dan&m

i)at ftragem. Hinc omnis coiifequiturque fuga.

• By letter from tb* Re». Mr. Biflirt, minirtcr of Caputh.
X In his accottU of Richaid of Cirencciler.

t Hid. Scotir, lib. iv. p. 64.
§ Who brgan his reign in 976.

ScrvaTi't

^ PlMNANt'S IBCOND TOtfR IN SCOTLAND. 395

Scrvitit civei. ViAorrm reppulit hnftcm,

UnuB cum nirit agminii indar crat.
Hie Dccios a^nofce luoii magnc xmuta RomiTi
Aut prior hac ( aut te hit Scoiix major adhuc *.

*t1)e noble families of Hay derive their dcfccnt from this rudic hero, and, in memory
of the aflion, bear for their arms the inftrumcnt of their vif^ory, with the aliufive
motto td J uOJiigo. Tradition relates, that the monarch gave this deliverer of his coun-
try, in Inward, us much land as a grey-hound would run over in a certain time, or a
falcon would iurround in its iiight : and (he (lory fays that he chofe the laft. There is
lomething heroic in this tale : but after all the truth 11, the family may be derived from
the ancient (lock of De la Have of Norman origin.

Over this tra£t arc fcattered numbers of 'I'uniuli, in which are frequently found bones
and entire (keletons, fometimes lodged ui rude coihns, formed of Hones, difpofed in
that form ; at other times depufited only in the earth of the barrow. In one place is
an upright (lone, fuppofcd to have been laid over the place of fepulture of the Danifh
leader. The prefent names of two places on this plain certainly allude to the iStion
and to the vanquilhed enemy. ** Turn again Hillock" points out the place where the
Scots rallied, and a fpot near eight 1 umuh, called Danemerk, may defign the place of
greated (laughter.

Continue my ride through a fine plain, rich in corn ; the crops of wheat excellent.
I'he noble Tay winds boldly on the left ; the eaftem borders are decorated with the
woods of Scone. The fine bridge now completed, the city of Perth, and the hills and
rifing woods beyond, form a moti beautiful fintfhing of the profpeO.

Perth, till about the year 1437> was the principal city of Scotland, the frequent re<
fidence of Its princes, and feat 01 parliaments and courts of juftice. It is placed in the
middle of a verdant plaitli which it divides in two parts, one called the north, the other
the fouth Inch. I'his city rofe after the de(lru£lion of the old Perth or Bertha, a place
above two miles higher up the river, which was overwhelmed by a flood in the time of
William the Lion in laio, who, with his family, with difficulty efcaped in a fmall (kifF.
William re built the town in a place Ids liable to fuch calamities } and called it St. John's
Town in honour of the faint.

Old Perth was a place of commerce in the year 1 128, is evident from the charter of
David I. to the abbey of Holyrood houfe, in which he gives a hundred fbillings out of
his fmall tithes there, or the duties arifuig from the firfl merchants that fhould come in-
to the port. In 1 160 fgund here fecurity in a flrong tower from an attack made on
him by Ferquhard Earl of Strathern, who made here an unfuccefsful attempt to feize
his perfon t-

The new Perth became confiderable, not only on account of its being a royal red-
dence, but likewife by reafon of the vafl commerce which its fituation on one of the
firll rivers in North-Britain would naturally convey. Its importance foon gave it walls
and fortifications. Major I calls it the only walled city in Scotland. The cadle flood
near the Skinner*gate (Ireet. The importance of the place made it frequently expe*
rience the calamities of war. Edward 1., when he over- ran Scotland, pofTeifed himfelf of
this city. In 1312 it was taken by Robert Bruce § in the month of January ; when
he put to death the chief perfons both P^nglifh and Scotch, but fpared the common peo«
pie ; after which he levelled the fortilications. After the fatal battle of Dupplin in
1352, Baliol, with fmall oppofition, entered the place, and left it in poiTeilion of the

* Jok. Johnftoni Heroet Scoti.
X p. ao. % Fordun, 7, 144.

3 B 2

f Annals Scotland, u6.

enemies

M'.'

J^ 'u

1 1'
1 1

!S.

I mf.

a'i '

y)(>

PEKNANt'.i second tour in SCOTLAND.

enemies of his country. I.Jward III. who knew its Importance, repaircJ the walls, and
rcdoral the tortilicaiions iit the expenco of the rich abhits of Arbroth, Clowpcr, I,in-
doros, niihni'rinciih, l)iimriiliiic, iinJ St. Andrew's ; and placed ther^-, as jjovcrnur,
Sir I hmuas Oilurid. It re maincd iiiuior a fi>rii};n yoke but a finall time ; for iti i "5 |o
Robert Stii.iit, >',u;u\iiaii of Scotland, with a llrom; army, and the affillanc- of William
l)i>Ui'ln»^, \vho came opportunely from Franc.', wiih five fliip.s, relKired h;.' place lo its
natural niaiJer, alter a f;allant defence of two months and two weeks, by liU' governor
Sir Tiiomas Ochtied •.

I do not recoil ct that it underwent anv fle(»(» from that period till the religious wars
of i55(); \then the (piecn regent, provokrd by the inlult of ilic iuhabiianis on all flu!
held venerable and holy t, placid there a garrilon of French. The zeal however of thij
congregation foon collected a potent army to its relief under Argyle, who, after a fhurt
liege, obliged the {',arrilon to capitulate and n-lire.

Perth from that time remainetl in peace above a century. In *C.\,\ tlie Marquis of
Montroie feized the place, after the baitle of I'ibbirmoor ; aiul Cromwell, in July 1671,
after a weak defence from a weak garrilon, made liimfelf malfer of this important ''ity :
and,to fecure the poflcllion, the Eiiglifh comnullioncrs ordered J a citadel to b' * .ilt
on the South Inch, capable ol containing live hundred URii, the reuiains of w' \< iJl
retain the name of Oliv.-r's Mount.

The Earl ol Mar's army, in the rebellion of 1 7 1 (;, lay a confiderable time in this place,
and fpent hrre con fulorahU' funis of money. This circumilance cc/inibuted as much
to enrich the city, as the fettlcment of numbers of () iver's forces, after the ellablifhment
of peace, allifttd in introducing that fpirit of induftry, which, to this moment, dillin-
guilhcs the inhabitants.

Perth is large, well built, and populous, and contains about eleven thoufand inhabi-
tants, nine ihouland of whom are of the ellabliflied church of Scotland ; the rell of a
variety of perfuafions, fuch as Kpifcopalians, Non-jurors, Glaflitcs, and Seceders ; the
fecond chitily confills of a congregatii 1 of venerable females. The town has but one
parifli, iupplied with three churchc , befides the chapels fur fuch who diilent from the
eitabliihed church.

The two principal flreets are remarkably fme : in fome of thelefTer ones are ffill to
be feen a lew wooden houfes in the old llyle ; but as they decay, the magiflrates pro-
bibit the re-buildiii-^ them in the fame manner. 'I'he great improvement of the town is
10 be dated from the year 1745, it being fiippofed to have increaled one third fmce that
turbulent period : for the government of this part of Great Britain hud never been
propi riy fettled (ill a little after that time.

Thei'ay waflies the call fide of the town, and is deep enough to bring velfels of one
hundred and tv\enty tons burden as far as the quays : and, if Dutch-built, or flat-bot-
tomed, even of two hundred tons burden. This enables tlie inhabitams of Perth to
carry on a very confiderable trade. The exports are as f . v O' white and brown
liners, about feventy five thouland p;inds worth are annii'l) ' ' ' London ' 'ides
a very gr( at quantity that is dilpol'ed of to Edinburgh and ■ .1; "" - : i.id Londoii, Man*
cheflerand Glalgow take about ten thouland pounds worth ot linen yarn.

Linfced oil forms a confiderable article ot commerce. Seven water-mills bclonginj^
to ihi;; plp.ce arciu full employ, and make, on a medium, near three hundred tons of oil,

■f 'I'l.- I ,f'." • ts ainir; '". ltd fcvtr^l cxctlTcs ; fiiili ns inttrriijitlTi^r the priefls in thiir fcrmons, nailiinj a
pair uf r. ' .i ' I.' f rv !!ir head of l3t. I'Vaucii, ;:!id ii cow'o tail to hio rump, &c. &c.

vhich

fKNNAN'r's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

397

wliich is tl)i' ^y fi'iit to London, and hrings In fr>>»n ci'^ht to nine thourand pounds.
'I'lu; full mili lor tliis purpnfo wa« eredcd, al)i>ut i!i • lioginning ol this century, by John
Duki- of Aittol. At the firll a glafs oi .^hilky, mixtd with hnK .is much oi the oil, was
a fartjionabli tlr;\ni ; I iir tliis foon j;riw out of uk', iis well .» the cuitoin of throwinsf
aw.iy the liii oi\i akes j v^lii' h arc now (old at a fjoocl pritf, and »i' d with tlic utniolt
fucccfs ill f I'diug citrli' The gciitleni in U now living;, who liitl miiroduced llalUfcd
liccf il)to ti markit ol i' rth. Ik-fure that liiuf th<' vie f<(t part of Sc<illai» I lived on
fait meat ilinnii'Jinut ilit- vn inter, ,>s the naiiv 's of tJK' \l l>iidfs do at prefent, and as the
Kii;.',lifli did in the lnulal times •. So f r b.hiiid has l'> >rih Britain bi-'on in the con-
veniencics of life, aiuf fuch rapid proc;nlft t d if <d late i\i.ide to warily attaining tlicUJ.

The cxportsof wheat and barley art* from twentv f 'Ur M>/thiriy thouand b>>lls.

Coiifiderable quantities of i.dlow, b ib' wax, ilrvikd fhc'cp-ikins, ..; Jed and raw
calvc-lkins, and goat-lkins arc (l)ippcd ttom this ^^lacf.

The exports of falinon to London . nd the Mediterranean brings in ti ° thoufand
two liuiulied pounds llcrlinj^. That filh is taken here in preat ahundam Three
thouiaiid have been caught in one niorninj;, \\^ij.;l\Mig, one with anoihe . fixte pounds
apiece ; the whole capture being forty eij;ht tliouland pounds, 'llie fh'-ry i ijns at
St. Andrew's-ilay, and ends Augull 26. h, Old Siyle. 'Ihe retir of the t ties mount
to three thoufand pounds a year.

No bof^igars are (een about the ftrects. In July 1776, fixtee perfon vrre < ofen
from different quarters of the town, to afl^ is the place for poor rates, for th*.' n mte-
nanco of the indigent.

It is to no purpole to fearch for any rcina ns of the monadic antiquities i
fanatic fury having in a few hours prollr.iti> I the magnificent works of mi

*• Pull down the nefts, and the rooks will 'Iv

away,

was

e maxun o;

place i
.1 piety.
' ro'
laion

of ?ils

prieft

ifiure :

' time

-31 by

nes L

apollle Rnox, and his dilc pics took tifedua care to put in execution live
their mailer.

'ihe Dominicans firft felt the cfTef^ of their rage. After the conclufion of
feiinons, inciting the demohtion of images and church ornaments, an indile
began the celebration of maf's. A boy in his '.eal flung a ftone and injured ;i
the populace took that as a fignal to begin the demolition, and in a very Ih
plundered the monadery, and laid all in ruin, 'litis houfe was founded in
y\lexander II. In '-1.37 its walls were polluted by the execrable murder of
the I) ft and moll accom|)liflu'd prince of the nai ic. He had retired to this cor nt on
the rumour of a conlpiracy. The atuick was made : the heroifm of Catherine )oug-
lals, an attendant on the Oneen, mult not be paOld in fjlence. She ran and ihi 'he
door on the firlt alarm ; but, mifling the bar \vh :h fliould have fecured it, fubllnu.fd
her lender arm in ilie place, wniJi was inllantly :ru(hed to pieces by the efforts ot the
affaihns.

The Obfervantinos, a branch of the Francifcaii had here a monaftcry, founded by
Lord Oliphant, in 14(30. It underwent the iani fate with the other. In it, fay the
writi IS on the retormaiion, wrre found eight pui heons ot fall beef, wine, beer, and
plenty of olhtr provifions, belides mod excellent furniture, confiding of (heets, blan-
Kets, and beds; and yet there were only eight p.'rlons in the convent; from whence
they drew an interencc how ill the monks obf rved their vows of poverty and abili-

fl
11

-'J I ^

111" 'I

■1-1

• We admire tlir ftoi-k of provifions in the larJi-rof the cl<';r '■ peftctr about the year 1327, when, aa
laleas May, the cari-iifl'ts (it 80 fiiltid hfi'Tts, 500 b.icoii«, aii< 60 niutliins were lound, mtrc rtliquti of
kit winter provifiunt. Dut in ihufc dayii, there wa 110 hay, no liarvcllcd fuud for domcliic animaU.

nence ;

398

pbmmamt'3 sEcatto tour in sootlako.

»ence ; never confidering that the religious houfes were the fupport of the poor, and the
inns of the rich; and that their regular atts of charity and hol'pitality obliged the .1 to
keep thefe large ftocks of provifions, without affording the means of applying them to
the purpofe of feltiih luxury.

The rigid order of CarthuHans founded a place here. James I. on his return from
his Englifh captivity, eQablifhcd a convent of them in 1429 *, as thefe monkifh lines
exprefs :

Annus mlllenus vicenua flcque novenus
Quadn'iigcntenus Scoti« fctt imiticra pirniis :
Semina n»Tum, gcnninn monim, myfllca mdia
Cum tibi, Scotia, fit Carthufta, fponfa novella.

The vicar of the Grand Chartreufe in Dauphine was the firfl fuperior. On the dif-
folution, James VI. created George Hay, of Nethercliff, commendator of this priory,
with the title of Lord, but finding the revenue too fmall to fupport the dignity, wifely
refigned it into his Majefty's hands.

The church belonging to this monaftery was faid to have been one of the fmefl in
Scotland. In it was the tomb of the royal founder, that of his Queen, Jane, daughter
of the I)v:ke ofSomerfet, fonof John of Gaunt, and that of Margaret, Queen of James
IV. and daughter of Henry VII. in right of whom the crown of England devolved on
the royal family of Scotland. In the houfe was preferved the doublet in whicii James I.
was murdered ; which the monks, with pious regard, (hewed, llained with bloud, and
pierced in many places with the fwords of the confpirators.

Leave Perth, and pafs over the South-Inch, a green beautifully plant' d. Keep af-
cending a hill for a confiderable fpace, and enjoy a rich view of the carfe of Gowrie, and
of the firth of Tay, bounded by that fine trad on one fide, and the county of Fife on
the other. On paffing the heights of this afcent, have a full view of Strathern : con*
tinue my way, for fome time, on the fine terrace that runs along the northern fi le ; and
iiniih this day's journey at Dupplin, the feat of my noble friend the Earl uf Kina^ul.

In the houfe are feveral very fine pidures : among others

The adoration of the fliepherds ; the worfhipping of the wife men in the ea^l ; and
Diogenes remarking the boy drinking out of his hand ; three capital pieces, by Paulo
Painni. The figures uncommonly fine.

Two monks praying : heads. By Quintin Metfis.

A fine half length of St. Jerom, half naked : a figure of intenfe devotion. His eyes
lifted up, his mt^uth opening. By Lamanfe.

A fine head of an old woman, looking over her (boulder, keen and meagre. By
Honthorft.

Heads of Polembergh, the painter, and his wife. By Honthorft.

The head of Boon, a comic painter, playing on a lute. By himfelf f.

Head of Spenfer the poetic ornament of the reign of Elizabeth ; the fwcet, the me-
lancholy, romantic bard of a romantic queen ; the moral, romantic client of the moral
romantic patron. Sir Philip Sydney ; fated to pafs his days in dependence, or in ftrug-
gling againd adverfe fortune, in a country infenfible to his merit : either at court

• Thf leftft from th* Grnfril of thf oriicr, dated from La crandeChartreufi.-, Augiift 19th, 142^, is ftill
fitaiit ; addreffrd to J«mrt, fig"ifying prrmiflion to freA a himfc of that order at Perth. Tlie General
alfo ofFcri to fend two monks into Scotland to fupvrintend the building.

f For an account of thefe thrc paintctt eonfult Mr, Walpuli'* Anecdotes, 410. voL ii. p, 113. 1 jr.
rol iii. j;.

rSNKANT't SECOND TOUR IN SCOtLAND. 599

To loofe good ityw, tiMI might be better fpcnt,
To wade lonr nights in penfivc difcontcnt ;
To fpeed to Jay, to be put back to-morrow.
To feed with hope, to pine with fear and forrow ;
To have his prince's grace, yet want her pecri:
To have his afltiiiff, yet wait many years ;
To fret his foul with croflTcs and with cares.
To cut his heart with comfortlefs defpair ;
To fawn, to crouch, to ride, to wait, to run ;
To fpead, to give« to want, to be undone *.

Or in Ireland to be tantalized with the appearance of good fortune i to be feated
amidft fcenery indulgent to his fanciful mule ; yet, at length, to be expelled by the
barbarous Tyrone ; to have his houfe burnt, and his innocent infant perilh in the
flames ; to return home ^ to die in deep poverty ; lamenting

That gentler wits (hould breed
Where thick (kin chufFes laugh at a fchoUer's need \.

May it not be imagined, that, in the anguifli of his foul, he compofed his Cave of
Defpair |, as fine a defcriptive poem as any in our language P Might not his didrefles
fumifh him with too powerful arguments for fuicide, had not his Una, or his innate re-
ligion, fnatched him from the danger ?

Another poet, equally neeleded, but of too merry a turn to fink under any preflTure,
is the droll Butler, whofe nead, beautifully painted by Sir Peter Lely, is here alfo.
This poet, inftead of whining out his complamts to infenfible Majefty, rallies his mo*
narch with the fame pleafantry that he expofed the ridiculous characters in his immorv
tal poem :

This prince, whofe ready wit and parts

Conquered both men and women's heart*/

Was fo o'ercome with kni^rht and Ralph,

That he could never claw it off ;

He never eat, nor drank, nor flept.

But Hudibras ftill near him kept ;

Nur would he go to church, or fo»

But Hudibras mud with him go )

Nor yet to vifit concubine.

Or at a city feall to dine,

But Hudibras mud (till be there,

Or all the fat was in the fire.

Now after all, was it not hard

That he (hould meet with no reward.

That fitted out this knight and 'fquire

This monarch fo much did admire i

That he (hould never reimburfc

The man fur equipage and liorfe.

Is fure a (Irange ungrateful thing

In any body but a King.

Rut this good King, it feems, was told

Py fome that were with him too bold,

•* If t'er you hope to gain your ends,

♦" Carefs your foes, and trull your friends."

.Such were the doftrines that were taught,

'Till this unthinking King was brought

I'u leave his friends to ilarve or die ;

A poor reward for loyalty ^ !

• Mother Hubbard's Talc.
t Buuk I. canto iz.

+ Quoted in the Brltifti Biography.
\ butler's Remains.

it' ij

iJd

Mrsi

.ii^_^.iijii«ni.iii^ I .

■M

K*.--

4^Q PENNAKT'S SliCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Mrs. Tofts, in the cIiaraQer of St. Catherine : a beautiful piclure. Mrs. Tofts IWcA
at the very introduclion of the opera into this ivingdom, and fung in company witli
Nicolini ; but, boinj;; ignorant of Italian, chaunted her recitative in Englifli, in anl'wcr
to Ims Italian: but the charms of their voices overcame this abfurdity. Ilcr character
may be colleded from the following epigram :

S.) hi iglit Is tliy beauty, fo clianiiinjj tliy fonp,

As bad drawn botli the btiills and their Orphcui along ;

But I'uch in thy av'ricc, and luch iii thy pride,

That the Inaila niiill have ll.irv'd, aui\ the poet liavc dy'd *.

A head of Prince Rupert, by Lely, covered with a vafl: wig; tlie unfortunate moAc
for that great artill, (lift' and ungnicelul. Rupert after a thoiifand anions, dillinguifhed
as miicii by their temerity a valour ; after feveral battles won and lolt by his excels oi
courage, at once diri;raced himfelfby a pannic. Accuilomed to face «n enemy in the
field, and to acl the part of the afl'ailanl ; Iij I'eems to have lo'.t all fpirit when cooped up
within walls. He knew fo little of himi'elf that he promifed his ill-fated uncle a four
months defence of the important town of Biiibil ; but as loon as the attack was made,
lie funk bcneatli it, and made an a'nioll inllant furrender. After he was commanded by
Charles fo quit the kingdom, he llill attempted fome naval f-rvices ; but neither ac-
quired fame nor fuccefs. After the re ftoiation he recovered his former reputation ;
and in the naval engagement with the Dutch, to which all later battles have been but
play, his temerity feemcd to have been lolt : but his courage and contlucl fiione with
equal luflre. His adive fpirit never fuftered him to relt even in thj intervals of peace.
I.ove and the Arts were his relaxations. Mifs Hughes, an adreJs, was the objed of
the lirft. Among the lalt \vc owe to him the art of mczzotinto fcraping. He invented
a metal for gre.it guns, and a method for boring them. He alio taught the lirft Kirkby
the art of giving the line temper to lilh-hooks.

Robert Ilarley, Karl of Oxford, in a gown and velvet cap. By Riehardfon.

A beautiful miniature of Sir John Kainly, chancellor oi t!ie exchequer in the reign
of Charles II., and one of the comniiilionu's of the tiealury in tiial ol James II. on the
difjilacing of 1 lyde, Earl ot Roclieller. By C'ooper.

A head of Sir Thomas Nicholfon, attorney-general. By J.imefon.

George llav, fu'll Earl of Kinnoull, ami chancellor of Scotl.md in 1622, who died in
1634. His drefs a black robe furred ; arulV; a laced linen cap : the feals by him. A
fine full length, painted in the year 1633. Aged 63. By Mytens.

His fon, the fecond Earl, captain ot the guards to t'harles 1. a tall upright figure,
with great rofes in his (hoes; an adive but unfortunate royalilt, continued in arms as
late as the year 1654, when he was totally defeated, and made priloner, by the ufurp-
ing powers in Scotland.

Sir George Hay of Meginnis ; full length, in iirmour : done at Rome, 1649. By
L. Ferdinand.

Below Ihiirs, in one of tlu bed chamber,'^, is a hall-lengtli portrait of the eehbrateJ
James Hay, Vifcuunt Donealter, and Earl of Carlille, one of the moil lingular diame-
ters of the age. His engaging manner recommended him to the favour of Janus 1.
who firll be flowed on him the title ef Lord Hav, with rank n-xt to our barons, but
without privilege of fitting in the Eiiglilh Farliaiiient. Si-on alter, \\iilioul external
ceremonv, but by the mere delivery of the letters patent, before witnelVes in the privy

• She rttiicd from England, and died at Vtuiec, about twelve ycai 5 ago.

chamber.

fCNNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTtAND.

401

chamber, at Greenwich, he conferred on him the honour of an Englifii peerage; and
this the lawyers held to he equally valid with any formal vertiture*.

His niajofty then .procured him the fole daughter and heirefs of Lord Denny, the
grcatell match of that time; and never ccafed heaping on him honour, favours, and
riches, which he fcems not to have coveted for ariy other end than to indulge his vio-
lent paflion for drefs, luxury, and magnificence. He was a man of the greateft expence,
and introduced more txcefs in cloaths and diet than any other that ever lived f ; and
was the inventor of all thofe expenfive fufliions from which others did but tranfcribe
their copies. His drefs in the portrait at Dupplin is an exception ; being black flaflied,
and puffed with white ; his hair fiiort and curled ; his beard peaked ; but when he
made his public entry into Paris as ambafllidor, his cloak and hofe were of white beaver,
lichly embroidered with gold and filver. His cloak had no other lining than embroi-
O.cry, the doublet cloth of gold richly wrought, and his white beaver hat brimful of
embroidery. His horfc was fliod with lilver fhoes, (lightly tacked on, fo that every
curvet flimg off" one to be fcramblod for by the populace ; and that was inllantly re-
placed by a farrier who attended for the purpole |.

Sumptuous as his apparel was on this occafion, it fell fhort of the drefs in which he
?.)d the Earl of Holland appeared when they efpoufed, by proxy, Henrietta Maria ; for
they received her clad in beaten filver. 'Ihey certainly did not confult the Graces in
this fliffnefs of fplendor.

In his embaffy into Germany the fame pomp followed him. At the Hague he met
with his contrail in the frugal Maurice, Prince of Orange ; who being told he ought to
give an entertainment to the great Englifli ambaflador, " Let him come," fays his
highnefs ; and looking over his fimple bill of fare, feeing only one pig, ordered a
couple §, by way of making the treat more fumptuous, nor could he be prevailed on
to alter it. What a feall was this to him who feemed to have realized the entertainments
of Sir Epicure Mammon ! who ufed to have the board covered, at the entrance of his
guefls, wiili diihes as high as a tall man could reach, filled with the greateft delicacies ;
and after they had foaftcd their eyes, would caufe them to be removed for a frefh fer-
vice ; who once permitted one perfon to carry off in his cloak-bag forty pounds worth
cf fvveatmeats ; another to eat a pye compofed of ambergrife, inufli, and magifterial of
pearl ||. It is not furj)rifing that with all thefe extravagancies '.le wafted above four
hundred thoufand pounds ; not that his generofity, attended vv'ith uncommon affability
and gracefviinefs of manners, and with a great and univerfal underftanding, Ihould rivet
him in the affedion and cfteem of the whole Englilh nation. But that with the luxury
of an Apicius, he could mingle the honeft fentiments of a Clarendon in his advice to
his prince^; and that he dared to deliver to his opiniative mafterdifagreeable truths, and
unpalatable counfcls, are fads more aftonifliing than any of his walteful fooleries. To
conclude, he finiflied his life in 1636, and quitted the Itage conviva fiitur**^ dying, as
the noble hiftorian obferves, with as much tranquillity of mind to all appearance, as

• Camden'g Annala, 161;. In the former edition of this volume I followed the trauilation in the Com-
pute Ili'.lory of England, ii. 644, but find now I was milled by it.

f Clarendon,! Oi. % Wilfun, 92, 93. 94. § VVilfon, 154. j] Lloyd, ii. 6:.

^ Cabala, asquotid in D'akc's Patliamentary tiillory, v. jjo.

*• Old Olborn, vol. i p. 157, makfs liim die like a blafpliemous lunatic ; for when his own weaknefa
had palTid :» judgment that he could not live many days, he did not forbear his entertainments, but made
divero brave cloaths, as he faid, '' to outface naked ai'd defpicable death withal," f.iyiiig, " that nature
wanted wildom, luve or power, in making man mortal and fubjefltu difeafes, "

VOL. Ul.

ufed

1^^

.:■!

w'i

■■«::

■'■■If

402

pennant's second tour in ocotland.

ufed to attend a man of the mod fevere exercife of virtue, and with as little apprehen-
fion of death, which he expefted many days.

In this apartment is a half-length of his fon and fucceflbr to tixe title ; but in the
dining room is a full-length of the fame, a moll beautiful portrait, by Cornelius Janfen.
It is difficult to fay which is mod elegant, the perfon or the drefs of this young noble-
man, for it is drawn at an early period of life : all his father's fancy feems exerted in
the habit, bcfet with loops and buttons : a love-lock graces one fide of his neck : one
hand is on his ftaft' of office, the other on his fide. His hirtory is but brief He mar-
ried Margaret, daughter of Francis fourth Eurl of Bedford ; was appointed captain of
the yeomen of the guard to Charles I.; and for taking anadlive part in putting the com-
miffion of array in execution, in the county of Effex, was by the parliament font to the
Tower. In 1643 he appears among the nobility, who figned the letter at Oxford to
the popular general ; but foon after deferted the royal caufe, aild took t!)e oath ap-
pointed by parliament for thofe who flung themfelves under its protection *. At length,
diflrcfled in his circumftances, he retired to Barbadoesf, an ifland granted to his father,
and died in 1660.

But the mod remarkable head is that of the celebrated Catherine, Countefs ofDef-
mond. She lived to the age of fome years above a hundred and forty, and died in the
reign of James I. Sir Walter Raleigh fpeaks of her marriage as a fad well known to
all the noblemen and gentlemen of Muiiller |. He gives us room to think that fhe died
before the publication of his Hiftory, which was in the year 1614. Suppofing then her
ladylhip's age to have been a hundred and fifty at the time of her death, (he might have
danced in the court of King Edward, at the age of nineteen, a blooming widow, that
prince not dying till 1483.

This lady was a nioft popular fubjeft with the painters : befides this at Dupplln,
there are not fewer than four others in Great Britain, in the fame drefs, and wit.iout
any diflercnce of feature. 'Ihe mod ancient is on board, in a bed-chamber at Dcvon-
fhire-houfe, with her name and age (140) infcribed. T he honourable John Yorke
has another, at his feat near Cheltenham. There is a fourth in pofleffion of Mr. Scott,
printer, in Chancery-lane ; and the lihh is in the dandard clofot in Windfor cadle.
The lad was a prefent from Sir Robert Car, Karl of Roxburgh, as is fignified on the
back ; above that is written with a pen, Rembrandt, which mud be a miflake, for Rem-
brandt was not fourteen years of age in 161 4, at wliich time it is certain that the Coun-
tefs was not living §. The pii^ure at Uupplin, which is much in the manner of that
celebrated painter, is prol.ably a copy done by h'un after fome original he might have
met with in his own cout.uy, for it does not appear he ever vifited England.

Take the earlied cppuri unity of paying my rel'peds to Mr. Oliphanf, pod-mafter-
general, at his feat of Rollie, a few miles from Dupplin. I am in a particular manner
indebted to tiiis gei.tlenian lor the liberal concern he took in my journey, by directing
that all my correlpondcncies relating to it fhould be freed and forwarded to me. A true
uillance of national politenels, and a peculiar honour done to mylelf.

In my roa>l crols the Earn, and pals by the church of Fort-teviot, once the fite of a
Pictilh palace, where Ketmcth II. departed this life||, ami where Malcolm Canmure is
fail! to have reflilej. Near this place, a htile to the wed, are the veltiges of a camp,
occupied byl'-dward Batiol, immediately before the battle otDupplin, in Aui;ud 13^2.
Donald, Earl of Mar, regent in the minority of David II., lay encamped on the hill,

• Wtiifdock, 8v '45- t St.ig|Tfrin(r State, &c 151. I Hift.ofilic World, book i, ch. v. fed. 5.
i Grai;njcr'j Biygr, vol. ii. 8vo, J77y-bc. || CJulhrif, i. 156.

»2 at

pennant's second toor in 8C0TLA:4».

403

at no great diftancc from Dupplin houfe. By an unhappy but common difagreement
in feudal times, the other part of his forces were feparated under the Earl of Dunbar,
at Aucliterardcr, a few miles diftant. This had determined Mar to ftand on the defen-
five till he could be joined by the former ; but Baliol ci"ofling the river in the night,
and beginning his attack, he was induced partly by that, partly by the reproach of timi-
dity from the F.arl of Carrick, to fuffer his prudence to give way to raflinefs, and to
renew the fight with Baliol, fupported by the Englifli archers, the befl troops then in
Europe. A horrible carnage enfued : three thoufand Scots fell on the fpot, among
whom were the flower of the nobility ; with no farther lofs to the enemy than two
knights, and thirty-three 'fquires, without that of one common man. The day was
particularly fatal to the Hays. Hiitorians relate that the name would have been ex-
tinft, had not feveral of the warriors left their wives pregnant. We may be permitted
to qualify this, by fuppofing, as feems to have been the cafe, that the line of the chief-
tain would have failed but for I'uch an accident, a podhumous child preferving the race ;
or perhaps the whole may have been an invention, borrowed from the Roman ftory of
the Fabii.

Auguft 26. Determine on a little journey up Stratheam, and to the head of the
river, at the loch of the fame name. At a fmall diftancc from Dupplin, at the top of the
hill, firft meet with the Roman road, twenty -four feet broad, formed with great ftones,
and vifible in many places. It continues one way by Tibbirmoor to Bertha, and from
thence over the Tay near Perth ; and to the weft paffes a little to the north of the caftle
of Innerpeffery, and is continued on the other fide of the river, where it falls into the
camp at Strageth, and from thence to that at Ardoch. Mr. Maitland feems to have
traced the Roman roads andxamps of North Britain with great induftry, and to have
difcovered many that were never before obferved. It was my ill fortune not to meet
with his book till I had in a manner quitted the claflical ground, therefore muft refer
the reader to his firft volume of the Hiftory of Scotland for an account of thefe curious
remains.

Proceed weft. Pafs by the great plantations at Gaik-hall : in thefe woods is a fmall
circular intrenchment ; and about half a mile farther, on Galk-moor, is another, whofe
ditch is eleven feet wide ; the area within the bank (ifty-fix in diameter ; and between
this and Innerpeftery are two others, fimilar, placed fo near, that every thing that ftirred
beneath, or at a certain diftance around, could be feen, having probably been the tite of
little obfervatory forts, fubfervient to the ftations eftabliftied by Agricola, on his conqueft
of this country.

Reach the village of Innerpeffery. At this place is a good room, with a library, for
the ufe of the neighbourhood, founded by David, Lord Madderty, which ftill receives
new fupplies of books. Juft beneath crol's the Earn in a ferry-boat, and turning to the
left vifit the Roman camp at Strageth : much of it is now defaced with the plough ;
but many of the vaft foffes and ramparts are to be feen in feveral parts ; alfo the rows
of fofles and ramparts facing the exterior fouth-weft fide. According to Mr. Gordon,
who caul'ed it to be furveyed and engraved, the length is ninety-five paces, the breadth
near eighty.

Breatfaft at Mr. Keir's, agent to the forfeited eftate of the Duke of Perth. The
ground here is fertile, and about this place (Muthel) is well cultivated ; the land is
manured with grey marie, filled with river fhells, though lodged eight feet beneath the
furface ; and turnips and cabbages are raifed to feed the cattle j an example, if followed,
of the ftrft importance to the country.

iU) .

■i-H

* ) ■

3 P 2

Proceed

t'v. -,ff?|

404 fknnant's second Toira in Scotland.

Proceed alnncj the military road towards Critf. Sec on the road fide a row of neat
fmall houfos, intiiidcJ lor quiet retreats for diilj.indod fnkliery, but, as ufual, dofcrtul
by the colonilts. 1 his feems to have been the only Utopian proji'd of the coiumif-
lioners appoiiitid by his Majelly for the management of the forfeited eilates unalienably
annexed to the crown, by the ad of 25 (Jeorf:;e II. But as thefe gentlemen, with rare
patriotifm, difcharge their trull without falary, they ought not to be liable to cenfure,
like hiniini^ plav.*men, on every trifling failure *.

The lervice that this board has been of to North Britain is {o confiderable, that it
merits a little farther attention than I have hitherto paid it. Firfl, I mull premifc thai
the grofs rent of thefe cflates amounts to about eight thoufand pounds ; but after pay-
ing certain annuities to the widows of attainted perfons, miniflers* Ilipends, and other
public demands, the falaries of agents, and other neccffary officers, the clear refidue,
which comes into the hands of the rcceiver-gencral, amounts to little more than 5000I.

The application of this money has proved a great benefit to the country ; out of it is
paid annually two hundred pounds to fchoolmalters ftationed in many remote parts of
the Highlands. The like fum annually for the purpofe of bringing up the fons of the
poorer tenants to ufeful trades ; fuch as blackfmiths, cart-wrights, coopers, weavers,
Hax-dreflers, &c. &c. ; who, befidesthe expence of their education, are furnilhcd with a
fet of tools, and a reafonabie aid towards enabling them to purfue their refpeftive trades,
when they return to fettle in their own country.

The commiflioners often fend the fons of ibme of the better fort of tenants into the
Lowlands, and fome into England, to be taught the beft fort of farming. They en-
courage artificers to fettle on the annexed eftates, by affording them proper accommo-
dation, and beftowing on them feafonable aids. They havp from time to time expended
large fums for the purpofe of introducing and eltablifhing the linen and the woollen
manufadures, and for promoting fifheries in the Highlands ; for making highways, and
erecting bridges within the annexed eflates and countries adjacent. In particular, they
beftowed, under the fandion of His Maiefty's permiflfion, an aid of eleven thoufand
pounds towards building a bridge over trie fay at Perth j a noble work, and of great
national utility.

They have caufed large trads of barren and uncultivated grounds on different parts
of the edates to be inclofed, and planted with oaks, firs, and other trees, now in a very
profperous condition, and which will in time be of confiderable value. They allow
certain fums to tenants for inclofing their farms, free of interell for three years, after
which they are to pay five per cent, advance in th'^ir rent. They employ fkilful perfons
to make trials for difcovery of mines and minerals, of medical and other uleful indige-
nous plants. They lend their aid to every undertaking of public utility, that comes
within the intent of the ad, and conllantly keep in view and hope to accomplifh the
great objcds of it : " the civilizing of the inhabitants of the annexed eilates, the pro-
moting among them the protcllant religion, good government, induftry, manufadures,
and the principles of loyalty to the prcfent royal hne."

Soon after leaving thefe houfes, the unfortunate proofs of their good intentions, ob-
ferve on the right and left two great rocks, called Concraig, running eaft and weft for
a vafi way ; their fronts ftecp, and perfedly fmooth and even, fo as to be enfily niif-
taken for a wail. Go over the bridge of Crief, and pafs through the town. It is plea-

• Several njvantagrs fullowfj iliis plan, netwithftanding the primary objcft mifcairied. 1. It caufed a
great deal of gruuiid to l;e intlofcd with hedges aiid ditches, z. It gave rife to fcveral plantations. 3 It
produced a proper manner of building cottages, and left comfottitblc niaiifioos for a mure iudulliious people
after they were dcCcrlcd by their firlt iumatcs.

fantly

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

405

fantly feated on the fide of a hill, and tolerably well built. It pofTeffcs a fmalt fliare of
the coarll; linen manufafture.

Turn to the north-weft, and have in front a fine view of the ferpentinc Earn, and
numbers of little hills tufted with trees, and backed by immenfe rugged mountains.

Pafs by Auchtertyre, the feat of Sir William Murray, lituated on a hill, fprinkled
over with good oaks, and commanding a molt elegant view. The pretty Loch Moni-
vard lies beneath, whole bottom yields a quantity of excellent marie, which is dragged
up for a manure. The church of the fame name lies at a fmall diftance from it. About
the year '511, this place was a horrid fcenc of feudal revenge. Walter Murray, abbot
of Inchatfery, having a claim on the tytlies of this parifli, then the property of the
Drummonds, rode the boundaries in a manner that was interpreted by them infulting
and tumultuous. They were determined to repel the abbot and his party, and at the
inftant were accidentally joined by an ally, the captain of Dunftaffage, who was likewife
on an errand of revenging the murders of fonic Drummonds by certain of the name of
Murray. The abbot fearing to be overpowered, took fanduary in the church ; when
a (hot from one of his party flew a follower of Dunftaffage, who took inftant and cruel
vengeance, by burning the place and all that had retired into it.

Pafs by Laurs, a feat of Colonel Campbell, agreeably placed amidft woods. Go
through the village of Comerie, near which are four great ftoncs, ereft, and placed fo
as to form a fquare. They appear to me the portal of a druidical temple, or place of
worftiip, now deftroyed ; and that it was meant to dignify the entrance, and infpire the
votaries with greater reverence, as if it was the place of peculiar fanftity. The curious,
by confulting p. 187, and tab. xv. of the learned Borlafe's Antiquities, may find a com-
plete hillory of what thefe ftones form only a part.

The valley begins now to grow very narrow, being continually interfered by fmall
but beautiful hills, moftly cioathed with woods, which occafion every half mile or lefs an
agreeable change of fcene ; new vallies fucceed, or little plains beyond plains, watered
by the llarn, here limpid and rapid ; frequently to be croiTed on genuine Alpine bridges,
fupported by rude bodies of trees ; over them others covered with boughs, well gra«
veiled over. 'I'he higher we advanced the more picturefque the fcenes grew ; the little
hills that before interfeftod the vales, now changed into great infulated rocks, fome
naked, others cioathed with trees. We wound about their bafes frequently through
groves of fmall oaks, or by the fide of the river, with continued views of the vaft rug-
ged Grampians on each hand, foaring far above this romantic fcenery. Some little
corn and grafs filled the fmall plains where there was fpace free from trees. The lalt
was now in harveft ; but fo fliort, that the peafants were obliged to kneel to cut it with
a fickle. Their induftry went fo far as to induce ihem to cut it even among the bufties,
and carry it into open places for the benefit of drying it in the iree air.

At once arrive in fight of Loch-Earn, a fine extent of water, about eight miles long
and one broad, filling the whole vale. A pretty ifle tufted with trees divides the lake
at this end. The boundaries are the vaft and rugged mountains, whole wooded bafes
bound the margin, and very rarely give any opportunity of cultivation. A fine road
through woods impends over one fide, and is a ride of uncommon beauty. The great
rocks that lay above us guarding the lands of Glen-Karken, are moit wild and pidu-
refque ; for a while bend inwards, then foar precipitous, prefenting a wooded front,
overtopped with naked rocks, opening in parts to give a view of corn fields and farm
houfcs, at a dreadful height above us.

'J'his lake is the termination of Strathern towards the north-weft, and gives name
to the river which gives name to the valley. The word is originally derived fron^ the

3 Celtic,

"ilii'

it!)

1'.

Ill

III;!

. f

i i .
■ ' ('r

■::| •<},'■■ ■' -^

.'IV, I ; I ,

;;' I! 1 »'5'

-Hi

■M

4o6

rEKNANT's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND*

Celtic, Eryn, or Hcryn, the weft, as the river runs from that quarter. The Romans
adopted it ; and Claudian in particular fpcaks oi this country, when celebrating the
vidtories of the elder Theodofius.

maduerunt Saxone fufo
Orcades : incaliiit Pidloriim fangiiinc Tliule:
Scotorum cumulos flcvit glaciahs lerne *.

The Orknies firll lie dyed with Saxon (jor«,
Then Thule with tlic Pirtifli blood grew Imt ;
ley Strathern bemoan'd liiijje heaps of Scots.

Return and dine at Comerie. Near this place, on a plain of fome extent, is the
famous camp which Mr. Gordon contends to have been occupied by Agricola, imme-
diately before the battle of Mons Grampius, and to which, in order to fupport his
argument, he gives the name of Galgachaa, as if derived from Galgacus, leader of the
Caledonians at that fatal engagement. This camp lies between the river of Earn
and the little ftream called the Ruchel : and on a plain too contracted for fuch a
number of combatants as Tacitus fays there was, to form and aft in, or for their
charioteers or cavalry to fcour the field. There are indeed fmall hills at the foot of
the greater, where the Britifh forces might have ranged themfelves before the battle ;
but the didance from the fea is an infuperable argument againft this being the fpot, as
we are exprefsly informed that Agricola fent his fleet before, in order to diftrad and
divide the attention of the enemy, and that he himfclf marched with his army till he
arrived at the Grampian mountains, where he found Galgacus encamped. From the
whole account given by Tacitus, it fhould be fuppofed, that adion was fought in an
open country, at the foot of certain hills, not in a little plain amidft defiles, as the
vallies about Comerie confift of. A conjecture may be made hereafter concerning the
fpot where the Grampian victory was obtained. The battle which was fought here,
might have been that occafioned by the attack of the Caledonians on the ninth legion.
Claffical authority informs, that, in the general infurredion of that gallant people in
the fixth year of Agricola's command, he divided his army into three parts ; one might
be at Ardoch, the other at Strageth, the third or the ninth legion might be fent to pufh
up the defiles of Comerie, in order to prevent the enemy from furrounding him, or
taking advantage of their knowledge of^ the country, or his inferiority of numbers t«
Mis three divifions lay fo near, as to enable them to affift each other in cafe of an
attack.

The Caledonians naturally direfted their force againft the weakeft of the three
armies, the ninth legion, which probably had not fully recovered the lofs it fuftained
in the bloody attack by Boadicia \. The camp alfo was weak, being no more than a
common one, fuch as the Romans flung up on their march. It has no appearance of
over having been ftative : and it is probable that as foon as Agricola had, by an ex-
peditious march, relieved this part of his army out of a difficulty they were fairly in-
volved in, he deferted the place, and never hazarded his troops again amidft the
narrows of this hoftile country. Weapons and other inftruments have been difcovered
on the fpot, in the courle of the forming the roads through this pal's. A brazen fpur,
iron bands, a fort of iron hammer, and a moft curious fmall iron battle-axe, or rather
pick-axe, have been met with j which are evidences of a conflift on this fpot.

• De IV. Codf. Honorli. lin. ji.

+ Ne iupcrante numrro ct pcrilia loconim circiimiretur, divifo, et ipfe in trci partei exercitu ioceflit-
Vita Agiiculv. I 'i'aclii Annalet, lib. i^iv, c. 31.

The

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

407

*rhe camp, notwithftanding it could not boaft of any great (Ireneth, is beautifully
defigned. The tour entrances are entire, guarded .by curtains wnhin and without ;
but there are no vertiges of the praetorium, w confirms my fufpicion that the at-
tack was begun befon' all the ufual works were Loinplet; d. On the north fide of this
is another fquare entrenchment, join''d to this by a regular communication. One fide
had been bounded by the Ruchel, but at prefent that little ftream has removed itfelf
to fome diflaiice. Within this entrenchment is another : I cannot help thinking that
thele works were intended as a ftationary fort, it having the fituation that the Ro-
mans confulted, that of a river on one fide, but that it was left unfinilhed for the fame
reafon that the camp was. The fize of the camp is about nine hundred and feventy-
five feet by nine hundred. There are fome particularities about this place worthy to
be mentioned ; fuch as the multitude of oblong hollows that lie parallel, and divided
from one another by banks three feet wide, which are to be feen juft on the outfide
of the northern aggei of tlie camp. Tli.fe feem to have been places for drefling the
provifions for the foldiery, not places of interment, as was fufpefted ; for Mr. Macnab,
fchooimader of Comerie, at my rcqueft, was fo obliging as to caufe ftveral of thefe
holes to be dug through, and informed me that nothing but large quantities of wood
charcoal was to b? found, the cu'inary fuel ; and not the eaft trace of urn or human
bones were met with to countenance the other opinion. B^-fides thefe are two remains
of antiquities, both monumental. The on'^ Britifli, a vaft upright ftone, near the edge
of the camp : perhaps eredlcd, after the retreat of the Romans, by the Caledonians,
over fome chieftain flatn in the fight. The other a va(l tumulus, which probably co-
vered the ilj>n. This was a Rotnan tribute to the memory of their unfortunate
countrymen. Germanicus performed fuch exequies over the remains of the legions of
Varus in Germany, and carried the firft foJ to the heap. Primum extruendo tumulo cef"
plttm Cafar pofutt^ gratijjimo munerc in dcfunSloSy et prafentibus dolor is fociis *.

Aug. ij. Vifit Caflle Drummond, feated boldly on the fide of a hill, amidfl a fine
extent of woods, commanding a great view down Strathearn. The houfe is very uiu
equal to the fituation, being both mean and fmall \ nor is it of any great antiquity*.
On the back part are fome remains of the old cafile, built by Sir John Drummond,.
hereditary fteward of Strathearn in 149^, after removing from the ancient feat of the
family at Stobhall. The family derive themfelves from Mauritz, an Hungarian of
royal blood, who, having the conduft of the mother and fillers of Edgar Atheling, in
their flight from the Norman ufurper, was (with his royal charge) driven by a ftorm into
the Firth ^)f Forth. The reigning monarch Malcolm Caumore fell in love with, and mar-
ried the Princefs Margaret, one of the fillers ; and, in reward to Mauritz, for his
Ikiliul pilotage, made him a confiderable grant of lands, and caufcd him to aflume
the name of Drymen, or the high ridge ; but figuratively the great wave of the fea,
in memory of the perils from which he had delivered the fair Queen.

The caltle was befieged immediately after the cruel burning of the church of Moni-
vard ; the chieftain and his followers having retired thither to fcreen themfeK es from
their merited punilhmeni. It loon furrendered to the King, James IV. on condition
that their lives fliuuld be preferved ; but as foon as that Prince got them in his power,
he carried them to Stirling, where they fuffcrLd death for their impious barbarity.
It was afterwards befieged, taken and garrifoned by Cromwell's forces, and finally, at
the Revolution, totally demoliflied. The ruin of the family was completed in 1745,
when the Duke of Perth, by an unfortunate attachment, forfeited the ancient titate, to

. «■■-■

■ fill

' ffil

Taciti Ann. lib. i. c, 62.

the

■, '&!

4o8

pennant's SECONO tour in SCOTLAND.

the amount of four thoufand a year, an J loft his life, worn out with the fatigues of the
winter's campaign.

Continue my ride foutherly. See, on the top of a moor about four miles from
Caftle Drummond, a fmall but fbong exploratory fort, called Kemp, or, more pro-
per'y, Camp-Caftle. The area is fevetuy-fix feet by fixty-four, and is defended by
three deep ditches. This feems to have been a place of obiervation fubfervient to that
of Ardoch, two miles didant. 'i'he Roman way, which is continued from the camp
at Strageth, pafles by this fort, and leads me to the next. On each fide are to bi- ob-
ferved multitudes of holes, moftly of a round form, out of which probably the materials
had been got for the making of the roads, liich at leafl are frequent on the fides of the
Roman roads in England and in Italy.

Pafs through a fmall glen, or rather a deep hollow, which croflTcsthc road, and fee a
deep and oblong trench, perhaps made as a lodgment for a fmall party to difeiid this part.
A little farther, on a line with this, is a fmall round area, like tholi- on (Jafliiiioor,
but confiderably ftronger, bting furrounded by not fewer than three folles. Not r.--
mote from this, on the Iroiit of a ileep dell, is a regular lunette, with a very ftrong
fofs ; and near that again another round fort, defended by two diteheii.

From this lunette is a great fofs, which paflls half a mile wide of Ardoch, and, as
I was informed, fell into the water of Kneck, at two miles dilhmce fro i. its origin.

1 am now in the midll of clallical ground ; the bufy fcene of adion in 'he third yrar
of Agricola's expeditions. Through this valley he led his troops, when he carried the
terror of his arms as far as the Tay ; when he palfed unmolefted through n^^w difcovcrcd
nations, with the elements warring againft him *. Here after all the difticuhies he niL-t
with in condu£ling his forces through the forefts, and wading through icHuaries firll
tried by himftlf t ; he found an anjple fpace for eroding of fortreflcs, and cftablifliing
of ftations J. Of thefe

Ardoch forms the firft and chief, feated at the head of two vales, and commanding
a view into each : into the fertile Strathallan, which I rds to Stirling, the probable
rout of Agricola; and into the Glacialis lerne, the prefcnt Sfrathtarn, an open tnut,
which, under the common name of Strathmore, gave full fpace for the operations of
this celebrated leader.

As this ftationary camp was the moll important, fo it was fecured with greater
ftrength and artifice than any of the reft. No general everrqualicd him in the judicious
choice of fituation ; no camp he maiie was ever taken by ftorm, or obliged to furren-
der, or to be deferted §. This he fixed on an elevated fituation, with one fide on the
fteep bank of the little river of Kneck, and being fortified on that part by nature, he
thought fit to give it there the fecurity of only a fingle fofs. The other three have five,
if not fix folfes, of a vaft depth, with ramparts of correfpondent heights between. The
works on the fouth fide are much injured by the plough ; the others in fine proferva-
tion. In the area is the prstorium, or the quarter of the general, in a tolerable per.
feft ftate. The area is four hundred and fifty feet by four hundred. The four porta-,
or entrances, are plainly to be diilinguifhed ; and the road from the pnttorian port to
the prxtorium very vifible. This Itation was of force iufTicient to baftle any liege
from a barbarian enemy : this was one of tiiofe that he made a winter garrifon during

* Tertiui exprditioniim annui novat girntes aperuit, vadatis ufq'it: ad I'auni (xf^iiario nnmrn rd ' n.iti-
onlbus, qua totmidinc tcrriti lioilcs, qnanquam confliclatirm fxvis teinptllatibiis, txttcitiim laetffere non aiil'.

f ^iluaria ac fylvas ipfe prvfitcntarr. X Hontndifqiic iiifuptr crillellis fpafium fuit.

^ Adiiotabaiit pcriti. non alium ducem opportunitatca locorum fapientiu« Ifgifle ; nullum ab AgricoU
pofitum caUcUum aut fi hoftium cxpugiratum, aut paftione aut fugadclcrtum.

the

rENNANT 3 SHCONI) i

m SCO .AND.

409

en*

if I

the remaining time of his command in the country ; and by layin\ ii % yeif^
zincs of provifions freed the foldiers from all apprehcnfiouis of a ockMt *, j
abled thcni to muke frequent failles.

To the north of this fortrefs are the outlines of three inclofu . rurro\iii
recollkct right, by only fingle ramparts. They are the works of diUi .it \) .s, or
perhaps might have been the fummer camps to this ftation ; or they might have been
the procellria to the place, a fort of free towns, built and inclofed with flight entrench-
ments, under the cover of the fort, which might be ftyled their citadel f. The fird is
contiguous to it, and receives into the well fide the Roman road. The meafurements
of the area are a thoufaud and eighty feet by eight hundred and forty. The porta;
arc quite fdled up.

Another very large one lies north of this, and part of the fouth, and even trefpalTcs
on, and takes in a linall portion of it. The four entrances are very vifible, and each
has, by way of defence, oppofite to it, on the outfide, a Ihort rampart. The dimen-
iions of this are two thoufand fix hundred feet, by fixteen hundred and feventy. The
prefent road to Stirling runs through the midll of this.

A third, which feems never to have been completed, breaks in on one fide of the
greater ; it points towards the Kneck, and either never reached that water, or has
been on that fide totally defaced.

Many antiquities have been found about this ftation, fuch as bits of bridles, fpear-
heads, and armour, which were depofited at Ardoch-houfe, the feat of Sir William
Stirling, where they remained till the year 1 7 1 5, when they were carried away by the
foldiers. Since that time a very curious fepulchral monument has been difcovered
there, and prefcnted to the College at Glafgow. It is infcribed thus :

Dis tnanibus Ammonius. Damionis cob. 1, Hifpanorum Jlipend'wrum XXVII. He*
redes F. C.

This is engraven in the xvth plate of the College Antiquities, and mentioned by
Mr, Horfley among the Scottifh monuments. Sir William Stirling did me the honour
of informing me, that feveral coins have been found there, but now difperfed ; and
that there is in his poflbflion an urn filled with aflies, a fragment of the unburnt fcull,
and a piece of money. The laft; had, in all probability, been put into the mouth
of the deceafed as the fare of Charon for wafting him over Styx.

I muft^ not omit, that oppofite to Ardoch, on the other fide of the Kneck, is a place
called the Keir. Here, fays Mr. Gordon, ("for I did not vifit it,) are a great many
circumvallations and ramparts of ftone and earth, and regular terraces defcending on
the fide of the hill. In Wales we have many Britifh polls that bear the general name
of Caer ; and had I time to have examined it, I Ihould doubtlefs have found it to have
been one.

Nor mull I leave this place without obferving, that from its ramparts is to be fcen
the plain of Sherifi'moor, where the ill-difputed battle of Dunblain was fought in 1715.
'Ihe Earl of Mar lay with his army the evening before at Ardoch.

On leaving this fine rcHque of antiquity, proceed down Strathearn. Pafs by a ftu-
pcndous Cairn. Crofs an extenfive black moor, and foon after reach TuUibardine |,
a great old houfe, the original feat of the Murrays, and which gives the title of Mar-

lib;

f 1::'

* Crebrx eruptiones ; nam adverfus moras obfidionis, annuis copiis firmabantur.

+ Vide Hoilley, p 101.

% From Tullocli, a hillock, and Bardin, bards ; this place being fuppofed to have been appropriated to
the fupport of a bard. In old times dillrids were allotted by the great men for their fupport, which often
became hereditary in their families. Doctor Macplierfon, ai8>

VOL. III. 3 o quis

4IO

TENNANT 8 .SKCOND TOUR IN BCOTLAVD.

quh to the heir of Athol. In 171 5 it was maile a garifon by the rcbclj, and for fome
time iinpcdtid the advance of tho King's army towards IVrtli. lii'loro tlic houfc, ac-
cording to honell l.iiulc-fay, was (lu'un the lfnj;tli and the breadth of tlie great (hip,
the Circat Michatl, built by James IV. and defcribod by ins hillorian with molt fcrupu-
lous minutenefs *. The dimenfions, fays he, were cxprciVed here by the (liipwrights,
by a plantation of imw thorns, which I looked for, but in vain.

Near the houfc is a very neat cafe of a fmall church ; but tlic inftde is quite ruinous.

Dr.-»w near the Ochil hills, verdant and fmooth ; fee at a fmall diftancc, at their
foot, Kincardine, an ancient feat of the Montrofo family. 'I'o the left is the fmall
town of Auchterardire, which, with Muthel, Blackford, Dinin, and feveral other
villages, were burnt by an order of the Pretender, dated from his court at Scone,
the 17th of January, and the fifteenth year of his reign, 1715—1716. This cruel
command was executed in a moft uncommonly Icverc feafon ; and the poor inhabi-
tants of every age and fex left expofed to the vigour of the cold. 'J'o palliate thcfe
proceedings, the necefiity of obflrutUng the march of the King's forces towards Perth
was pleaded : and that the Pretender, on his flight from that city, left in the hands
of General Gordon, for the ufe of the fufferers, a large fum of money, with a letter
to the Duke of Argyle, requeuing a proper dillribution.

Go through Dinin, and reach Dupplin at night.

Aug. 28. Ride to fee the ruins of a great cairn on the road fide, about a mile north
«f Dupplin, which had been lately dcmolilhed. On removing the ftones. were dif>
covered at the bottom a great number of cheds whofe dimenfions were two feet
eight by two feet two, every one confifting of five flags, forming four fuies and a lid.
In all excepting one were bones, and mixed with them in fome of the chefls were
round perforated bodies, which I fufpefl to have been druidical beads ; there were
beHdes numbers of rings, heart- (haped trinkets, and others of a flat and oblong form,
all made of a coarfe glafs.

At a fmall diflance from this place is the plain of Tippir-moor, where the Marquis
of Montrofe gained a fignal viftory over the Covenanters, a rabble from the county of
Fife, with an inferior army of half-armed Highlanders and Irifh. *• If ever God fpake
word of truth out of my mouth," fays one of the cnthufiallic divines to his friends, ** I
promifeyou in his name aflured vidory this day :" but he was poflTefTed with a lying
ipirit ; for two thoufand of their flock fell in the field, and two thoufand more were
taken prifoners. Tradition records a barbarous fuperllition of the Irifh troops, who that
momi ig put to death an innocent herdfman they happened to meet, from the notion
that vidory would declare itfelf for the party which firft drew blood.

* " In thii fame yrarthe Kin? of Scotland bilged a great (hip, called the Great Michael, wliich was the
jfreatcft ftiip, and of mod ftrengdi, that ever failed in England or France; for thi« fhip wa« of fo great
ilature, and toolc fo much timber, that, except Falkland, (he wafted all the ivooda in Fife, which wai oak
wood, by all timbec that was gotten out of Nonoway ; for (he was fo llrong, and of fo great length and
breadth, (alt the wrights of Scotland, yea and many other ftrangerd, were at her device, by the King's
commandment, who wrought very bu.'ily in her, but it was year and day ere (he was complete.) To wit.
She was twelve fcore fool of length, and thirty fix within the fides ; (he was ten foot thick in the wall, and
toanls on every fide, fo (lack and fo thick that no cannon could go through her. This great (hip cum-
bred Scotland to get hei to the fea. From the time that (he was afloat, and her malls and fails lomplt-te,
with towk and anchors ofTeiring thereto, (he was counted to the King to he thirty thoufand pounds of ex-
pcnccs,by her aitilUry which was very great and codly to the King by all the lell of her ordirs. To wit.
.She bare many ca«ntins, fix on every fide, with three great balTils, two bchii <\ in her dock, and one before,
with three hundred (hot of fmall artillciy, that is to fay, my.iii(l and battered falcon, and quarter-falcon,
(lings peftilent ferpetens, and double dogs, with hagtor and culvering, cors-bows and hand-bowa. She had
three hundred mariuers to fai: her ; (he had fix fcore of gunner: to ufe het artillery ; ai.d had a thoufand
meii of war by her captains, (hippers, and quarter-mailers."

14 Reach

FKNNANT • StCOND TOUR IW SCOTLANO,

411

Reach the church of Tippir-moor, which takes ito name from a holy well, iloilicat.,il
lo the Virttin Mary. This parilh was rometime the rcfulence of the bilhop of Dunkeld.
Bifliop Gatfred died here in 1249; and Bilhop Sinclair in 1337*. 1 he hill re-built
and riftored tho church of St. Serf, on the north fide of the water of Almond, once
the chief of this parilh ; but, as report goes, was afterwards di ferted on account of ,\
chilli of Lord Ruthven's being drowned in the river, in returning from being baptized.

Below the minifter's houl'o is a rhomboid intrcnchnient, call I the Ward : but there
is not the lead tradition about the delign of it. A liltle farther is a higli copped
tumulus or mount, llyled the round Law, fuch places beiny in thel'e parts generally
fuppofed to have been the feats of jullice.

At a fmall dillance from hence arrive at tho high banks above the river Almond,
which here waters the plain that extends to Perth, and falls into the Tay, about a mile
above that city. Near this place war feated the ancient Bertha, or Perth, which
Boethius afli-rts had been the refidence of the Scottifli Kings. Hero, lays he, Kenneth
exercifed feverc juflice on the great Banditti |. This place, (liys Buchanan \, was be-
ficgcd by the Danes before the battle of Loncarty ; it was totally dellroycd by a flood
in 1210, and the city re-built on the fpot where the prel'mt Perth Hands. The tide of
the Tay, in former times, reached this place ; from which circumltance is derived the
name. Bertha, being a contraftion from Aber-Tay, or the place where the Tiiy met the
fea §. An anchor has been found here; and, as I have been told, that on digging, are
to be found almoft every where old walls, vaults and caufeways, far beneath the pre-
fent furface of the ground. The Romans had a ftation on its banks, which their road
pointed to: and lUII the falls of the cliffs produce many proofs of the truth of the af-
iertion. About eight years ago, by the lapfe of a great piece of land, was difcovered
great quantities of excellent iron, in Ihort thick bars, from one to two feet in length, as
if it had been cut for the conveniency of retailing.

Other falls have produceil dilcoverics dill more fingular, and have layed open a
fpecies of interment, as far as 1 know, hitherto unnoticed. Some years ago, in the
face of a broken bank, were difcovered, fix pillars in a line, ten feet diftance from one
another, and eighteen feet high from the top of the ground to the bed of the Almond,
(hewing out of the bank a femicircular face. Thefe proved to have been the contents
of certain cylindrical pits, funk in the earth as places of fepulture. The urns were
placed in them, and the hollows filled with earth of a different kind from the banks,
and fo ftrongly rammed in, as to remain coherent, after the former had in part been
\va(hcd away. The Rev. Mr. DutT has defcribed thefe hollows in a manner fomewhat
different, comparing them to the fcgments of a cone, with the broader part downwards j
sjtid to have been filled with bones, aihes, and fragments of urns. Thefe funebrious
veflels have been found here of diff"erent fizes ; one of very uncommon dimenfions as
well as materials : being of fine clay only half an inch thick ; and entirely plated in the
infide with brafs. It is capable of containing ten gallons ; and was filled with alhes.
Other urns of a fmall lize have been met with in thefe pits ; one held fome wood aflies,
and part of a lacrymatory ; an evidi. nee of the nation they belonged to. So that if
we may rely on the map of Richard of Cirencefler, this place might have been the
Orrea of the Romans.

A mile farther, on the plain, is the ancient houfe of Ruthven ; once the feat of the
unfortunate Gowries. It confilts of two fquare towers, built at different times j and

.: I

• Mill'i LivM of the Bilhopi of Dunkeld, MS.
I Lib. VL c. 31.

j Annals Scotlajid, 138.
302

t Lib. XL p. 11-.

diftindt

■■M

'i'-S

4i:

TENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

diflincl from each Other ; but now joined by buildings of latter date. The top of one
of the towers is called the Maiden's leap, receiving its name on the following occalion :
a daughter ot the firll Earl of Gowrie was addreifed hy a young gentleman of inferior
rank in the neighbourhood, a frequent vifitorof the family, who never would give the
lead countenance to his paHion. His lodging was in the tower, feparatc from that of his
miilrefs ;

Sfil vttiicic p:itres quod non potucte vctare.

The lady, before the door was fluit, conveyed herfelf into her lover's apartment ; but
feme prying Duenna acquainted the countefs with it ; who cutting oil", as (he ihouglit,
:ill pofTibility of retreat, haflencd to furprize them. The young lady's ears were quickj
ihe hoard the footUeps of the old countefs, ran to tlie top of tlie leads, and took the
dtfp Tate leap of nine feet lour inches over a chafm of fixly feet, and luckily lighting
on the battlements of the other tower, crept into her own bed, where her aftoniflied
mother found her, and of courfo apologized for the unjufl i'ulpicion. The fair dauijh-
tcr did not choofc to repeat the leap; but the next night eloped, and was married.

But this place was the fccne of more ferious tranfaclions, which laid the fouiidation
of a refentuieni that proved fatal to its noble mailer. Here was executed the generous
dcfign of freeing James VI. from his worthlefs favourites, who werepoifoning his youth
with exalted notions of royal prerogative ; and inlliliing into him thofe principles which,
in after times, proved fo deftrudive to his progeny. Gowrie, whh numbers of other
peers, inveigletl James into this callle, in the year 1582, on his return from a hunting
match in Athol. When he was about to depart, he was (lopped by the nobles in a body,
who prefented him with the memorial againfl the ill conduct of his principal favourites.
He endeavoured to free himfelf from reflraint, but was prevented; and upon his burft-
ing into tears, was told by the guardian of Glames, that it was better childrcn.weep than
bearded men. This was called the Raid of Ruthven. The confpirators carried him
off; but on his efcapc he again religned himfelf to Arran, a favourite void of every
fpecies of virtue, and even, after an act of oblivion, declared them guilty of high trea-
fon, and aiflually put Gowrie to death at Stirling, after a trial injurious to his Majefty's
honour.

After the doubtful confpiracy of the two fons of this unfortunate nobleman at Perth,
and after their deaths, and poflhumous conviiflion, the very name was abolifhed by aft
of parliament ; the houfe indeed was preferved ; but to obliferate all memory of fo
deteded a family, even the name of that was changed to Hunting-Tower.

Near this houfe is the (lone building called the Lowfwork, fo llylcd from Low the firfl
contriver. Tliis fervcs to divert part of the water of Almond into an aqueducl, leading
to Perth, which is of the greated fer\ ice to the various mills at this prefent time, and
anciently afTided to make the place ahnod impregnable, by fdling the ditch that fur-
rounded the walls. On one fide of this aqueduft is the boult of Balhoufie, a done work,
perforated with an orifice, thirty-two inches round, guarded with a circle of iron at each
end. This hole is permitted, by very ancient ufage to convey a portion of water to the
mill of that name. A contraft is dill extant between tlie magidrates of Perth and
Eviot, then the owner of Balhoufie, in 1464, about the repair of this boult ; and very
lately the fame has been renewed by the Earl of Kinnoul, the prefent noble poffeflbr of
thofe lands •.

• As it Is my wiHi to prcferve tlic memory of evtry beiu-fador to the human fpecies, I vnn{\ not omit
mention of Alexander Clirillic, ail Irifh-Scot, wlio about tifty yearj afjo in this,iatin". at 3 place lalatl
Tnllocli, fti u;>the firll lil.achirg ground ; and waa ilic firll pcrfjn wlio introJucid tlic rigul culture of
]^taloe»iDlo thi* country.

Mr.

PENNANT'S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 413

Mr. DufFfrom this fpot pointed to me the fite of Tillilum, near Perth, once a con-
vent of Carmelites, in the eafl end of the parifh of Tippir-moor. The founder is not
mentioned : we only learn from Keith that Richard Invcrkeithing, Bifliop of Dunkeld,
built here a fine chapel and a houfe, in 1262, and that the fynods of the dioccfe were
wont to be kept here for fear of the Cattarranes, or the Highland robbers, till the year
1460, when Thomas Lauder, Bifhop of Dunkeld, removed them to his own cathedral *.

In my return to Dupplin had a diftant view to Mcthwon, a place lying between Tip-
pir-moor and the Almond, noted for the defeat Robert Bruce received here from the
Engliflijin 1306, under Aymcr de Valence, F.arl of Pembroke.

^j"hc banks of this river, about two miles higher than Bertha, aflbrdod an untimely
grave to the fair friends, Beflie Bell, and Mary Gray, two neighbouring beauties, cele-
brated in an elegant Scotch ballad, compofed by a lover deeply Itricken with the
charms of both. One was the daughter of the Laird of Kinvaid, the other of the
Laird of Lednoch. A pcftilence that raged in 1666, determined them to retire from
the danger. They felcdtcd a romantic and fcqueftered fpot, on the fide of Brauchie
Burn, where

Tliey l)igf;ed a bower en yon Burn brae,
And lliick'd it o'er with radicj.

Here they lived for fome time, and as (hould feem, without jealoufy, for they received
the vifits ot their lover, till catching the infedion, they both died, and were both in-
terred in the lands of Lednoch, at Dronach Haugh f.

Auguft 29. Leave Dupplin, and re-vifit Penh. Am honoured by the magidratcs
with the freedom of the city.

Pafs over the part of the North-Inch. On this plain, in 1396, a private war between
the Clan Chattan, and the Clan Kay, was decided in a manner parallel to the combat
between the Horatii and Curiatii. A cruel feud raged between thefe warlike tribes,
which the King, Robert the III., in vain endeavoured to reconcile : at length the Earls
of Crawford and Dunbar propofcd, that the difference fliould be determined by the
fword, by thirty champions on each fide. The warriors were chofen, the day of com-
bat fixed, the field appointed, and the King and his nobility alTembled as Ipedators.
On reviewing the combatants, one of the Clan-Chattau (feized with a panic) was mif-
fing ; when it was propofcd, in order to form a parity of numbers, that one of tlie
Clan Kay Ihould withdraw ; but fuch was the fpirit of that brave people, that not one
could be prevailed on to refign the honour and danger of ihe day. At length one
Henry Wind, a liidier, who happened accidentally to be prefent, oftered to fupply the
place of the loll Macintofli, for the fmall fum of a French crown of gold. He was ac-
cepted ; the combat began, and Henry fairly earned his pay, for by his prowefs vic-
tory declared itfelf in favour of his party. Of that of Clan-Chattan only ten and the
volunteer were left alive, and every one of them dangeroudy wounded. Of the Clan-
Kay only one furvivod, who, declining fo unequal a combat, tlung himfelf into the Tay,
and fwam over uiuvounded to tlie oppofite Hiore ];.

Ride over the bridge of Perth, the moR beautiful Rrudlure of the kind 'U North
Britain, defigned and executed by Mr. Smeaton. Its length is nine hundred feet ;
the breadth (the only blemi(h) twenty-two within the parapets. The piers are founded
ten feet beneath the bed of the river, upon oaken and beachcn piles, and (tones laid iix
puzzalane, and craiupcd with iron. The number of arches nine •, of which the centre

• MS I,;fc<.f the Bitb.ips.
I Uudianaii, lib- X c. 2, 3.

f Gabions of Perlli, p. 19.

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414

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

IS fevcnty-fivc feet in diameter. This noble work opens a communication with all the
differ.'nt prcat roads of the kingdom, and was completed at the expence of twenty-fix
thoufand pounds : of this the commiflioners of forfeited cflat?s, by his Majefty's pcr-
miiTion, f;ave eleven thoufand ; Perth, two ; private fubfcribers, four thoufand feveii
hundred and fifty-fix ; the royal borou.;hs, five hundred. But ftill this great work
would have met with a check for want of money, had not the l-.arl of Kinnoull, with
his characlcriflic public fpirit, advanced the remaining fum, and taken the fecurity of
the tolls : with th>ihaz:ird only to himfclf.

Several precedinj^ bridijes have been wallicd away by the violent floods, that at times
pour down from the Highlands. 'I'he firfl misfortune on record is that which bcfelit
in 1210, in the time of William the Linn, bi.forc recited bv me. I am uncertain
whether it fuffercd a fccond time before the year 1329 ; or wluther the order given
that year by Robert I., for liberty of getting (loncs out of the quarries of Kynkarachi
and Balcormoc *, for the building of that, the bridge of F.arn, and the church of Perth,
was not for re-building the former, which might have lain in ruins fince the days of
William. After this, it met with a fucccfiion of misfortunes, in the years 1573, 1582,
and 1589 ; and finally, in the year 1612, when it had been juft re-built and completed
in the mofl magnificent manner, a fatal flood overthrew the whole : a judgment, faid
the people, on the iniquity of the place, for in 1 606 here was held that parliament,
•' at which bifliops were ereded, and the lords rode firfl in their fcarlet gowns" t-
From that period it lay neglcfted, till the late fuccefsful attempt reflored it at lead to
its former fplendor.

On reaching the eaftern banks of the Tay, make a digreflion about a mile and a half
to the left, to fce the celebrated abbey of Scone J, feated amidit beautiful woods, and,
at a fmall diftancc from the river. Long after the foundation of the abbey. Scone had
been a place of note. It is called by fomc the ancient capital of the Fids : but it
certainly was the feat of the princes of Scotland as early as the time of Kenneth. Oi;
a tumulus, ftill in being, they kept their court of juftice : on this they fat to deter-
mine- the pleas between their barons, whence it was called the Mons Placiti de Scona\
omnis term, or the Mote hill of Scone. It is alfo, fometimes called Boot hill, in allu-
fion to a fuppofed ancient pradicc of bringing to this place, a bootfull of earth from
different ciiates, when the proprietors were here to be invelted in them. Mote,
in the Galic tongue, fignifics a court ; for in very early times it was cullomary for
the great people to deliver their laws from eminences of this kind. Our Druids had
their Gorfeddau, where they fate aloft, and delivered their decrees, their fentences, and
their orations to the people.

It has been faid, that Malcolm Mac-Kenneth, or Malcolm the II. feated in the famous
chair, placed on this mount, " gave and diflributed all his lands of the realm of Scot-
land amongft his men, and rcferved nathing in propertie to himfelf, bot the royall dig-
nitie, and the Mutchill in the towne of Scone §." So that it ftiould feem the very ex-
iftence of his royal dignity depended on the poflTeflion of this hill of authority. But I
muft remark with Mr. Guthrie, that this dillribution ought to be taken in a more
limited fenfe : it being incredible that any Prince ihould thus totally diveft himfelf of all
the royal demefnes. It is niofl: probable that he only renewed to his barons the grants

• On openiag this quany, for the materiali of tlic piffent bridge, numteriof the ancient tools were
difcovered.

f Gabioni, 82.

X Or Scyor, a« it is callfd in a charter of Alexander II. Vide Anderfon'i Dijlomata, No. \XX.

<, Regiiiip Majeli. p. i. and Doethiui, lib. XI. p. 245.

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

415

of thuir lands, and in reward for their faithful fervices made their tenures fure and here-
ditary, which before they held precarioufly, and on the will of the crown *.

'I'ne abbey was founded by Alexander the Firft, in 1114, and was dedicated to the
Holy Trinity and St. Michael the arch-angel, and filled with canons regular of St.
Auguftine It is faid to have been originally a feat of the CulJees, which is not im-
probable, as it is not to be fuppofcd that fo noted a place could be deftitute of fome re-
ligious order. I'hc revenues at the reformation were confiderable : amounting to
1140I. 6s 6d. Scots ; befides fixteen chaldrons and two firlots of wheat ; feventy-three
clialdron.s thirteen bolls, two firlots and two pecks of bear ; fixty-two chaldrons of
meal ; eighteen chaldrons and three bolls of oats j and one lafl of falmon.

In the church of tl.is abbey was preferred the famous chair, whofe bottom was the
fatal ftovic, the palladium of the Scottifh monarchy ; the ftone, which had firft ferved
Jacob for his pilluw, was afterwards tranfported into Spain, where it was firft ufed as a
feat of juftice by Gethalus, cotemporary with Mofes. It afterwards found its way to
DunftafFage in Argylefhire, continued there as the coronation chair till the reign of
Kenneth II. who to lecure his empire removed it to Scone. Here it remained, and in it
every Scottifh monarch was inaugurated till the year 1296, when Edward I. to the
mortification of North-Britain, trah Hated it to Weftminfter abbey ; and with it, accord-
ing to ancient prophecy, the empire of Scotland.

The ceremony of placing the new monarch in the coronation chair was hereditary ia
the ancient Earls of Fife. Edward, in the midd of his ufurpation, paid a ftri£t atten-
tion to that point : the office was in Duncan the eleventh Earl ; but as he was under
age and with the King, I find in Rymer's Foederat a writ dated Nov. 21, 129a, at
Norham, direfting one John of Perth, inftead of the young Earl, to perform the cere-
mony of putting his creature John Baliol into the regal chair at Scone.

This abbey, with the church, in the year 1559, underwent the common fate of re-
ligious houfes, in the furious and ungovernable feafon of reformation. This was de-
molilhed by the zealots of Dundee, in refentment of one of their company being killed
by a fliot from the houfe. The nobility who were prefent ftrove to divert their rage,
being more interefted in the prefervation, from the profpeft of Iharing in the plunder
of the church.

In the church is the monument of Sir David Murray, anceftor of Lord Stormont,
the prefent owner of the place. Sir David's figure is placed in an attitude of devotion,
with a long infcription, relating his lineage, offices and virtues. Charles II. was
crowned in this church before he fet out in the expedition that terminated in the fatal
battle of VVorcefter. The crown was placed on his head by the Marquis of Argyle,
the wily peei being for once cheated by the young prince, who flattered him with the
hope of feeing one of his daughters mother of a line of kings J.

In the year 1715 the old Chevalier refided here for fome time, and iffued out fix
proclamations, among which was one for his coronation on the 23d of January 1716 ;
but before that time his refolution failed, and he fled from a crown he was unworthy to
wear. His fon, in 1745, made the place a (hort vifit.

Return the fame road ; pafs near the end of the bridge of Perth, and after a Ihort
fpace, ride beneath the vaft rocks of Kinnoull, which threaten deftruftion to the tra-
veller, from the frequent falls from this black and ragged precipice. Many awful ruins
are fcattcred far beyond the road } one of which a few years ago overwhelmed a fmall.

• Hift. Scotland, I. 2a6.
t CUrendon, vi. 395.

■\ Vol. ii. p. 600.

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^if) PENNANTS SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND

cuttao-c and the poor inhabitants. Beautiful aj^atcs arc frequently found in this hill.
Ill cxaiv.iiiing the fragments that lay beneath, I difcovered a confiderable quantity of
lava, a proof of its having been an ancient volcano.

In tl'.o church of KinnouU is the magnificent monument of Chancellor Tliy *. His
hirdlliip i '. rcprcfonted Handing under a rich entablature, fupported by three pillars :
two elegantly carved, the third plain, Airrounded by a coronet. His drefs is a long
»vin\ n, great rufl", and fmall clofe cap. The feals and a fcul! are placed on a table be-
fore hin'i. Bcnoadi is a fpace defignod for the epitaph, but left uninfcribed.

Soon reach the noted Carfe of Ciowrie, a fine tracl: that extends in length fourteen
miles, and in breadth four, bnunded on the north by a range of hills called the Braes
of Gowrio, and by the river 'lay on the fouth. Too r.uicii cannot Ix' faid of its ferti-
lity. It is covered with curn of every fpecies ; peas and clover all in great perfe6\ion ;
varied with orchards, plantations, and gentlemen's feats. The roads are planted on
each fide with trees, which, with the vaR richnefs of the country, reminded me of Flan-
ders ; and the extenfive corn lands, with the mud houfts, dabbed on the outfide with
cow-dung, for fuel, immediately brought before me the idea of Nortliamptonfliire. It
agrees with the kill alfo, in finding during fummer a great deficiency of water for com-
mon ufes, and a great lack of fuel all winter ; fo that the following is become a pro-
verbial faying, (falfe, I trufi, in the la(l inflance) " that the Carfe of Gowric wants wa-
ter all funmier, fire all winter, and the grace of God all the year through."

The view of the Tay and the oppofite fliorc add great charms to the view. On the
fouthern bank (lands Elcho, a poor convent of Cillertian nuns, founded by David
Lindfay of Glanerk and his mother, on a piece of ground belonging to Dumfcrline ;
endowed afterwards by Madochf, Earl of Strathcarn, with the lands of Kinnaird in
Fife. But the reclufes were never very opulent, as their whole revenue at the Refor-
mation amounted but to fixty-four pounds fix fhillings and eight-pence.

A little further the Tay begins to fpread confiderably, and to aflume the form of an
scflujry. At a hamlet called Hawkeftone, fee on the road fide a very large ftone, faid
to be that on which the hawk of the pcafant Hay alighted, after it had performed its
flight round the land which was given to the gallant rultic in reward of his fervices : on
it is infcribed in modern letters, I know not why, the word Caledonia.

Reach Errol, a fmall town, remarkable for the beautiful views, particularly thofe
from the gardens of Mr. Crawford, feated on a knowl, with a rich view of land or
water from every part. Here I remarked the arbor vita of a very uncommon fize,
being five feet fix inches in circumference. The feeds ripen here very well.

Obferve, about a mile to the left, Caflle-Lion, a feat of the Lions Earls of Strathmore.

The Carfe of Gowrie terminates a few miles farther, when the land grows higher,
but fiill continues f "'e and improved.

The fouthern boundary of the Tay is the fliire of Fife, a beautiful extent of country,
rifing gently from the water edge. Newburgh, a port of Perth, where velTels of three
hundred tons may lie, is to be fecn on that Ihnrc, a little eaft of Abernethy. Farther
on are many places of note that lie on that coafl, and were fecn in the courfe of this
day's ride. The firft is Lindores, a little tall of Newburgh, a rich abbey, founded by
David Earl of Huntingdon, brother to William the Firll, on his return from the Holy
Eand, about the year 1178. The pious uihabitants were Tyroncfian monks, drawn
Irom the abbey of Kelfo, whom Boethius pronounces to have been famous for the inno-

• r,;

■ George H^y firll Eatl of Kinnoull.

t Probably Malaifc or Maurice, fur 1 fee no Madoclia among the Earls.

ccncy

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

417

cency of their manners. Their revenue in money was two thoufand two hundred and'
forty poimds fourteen (hillings and fourpence Scots ; and they had befides twenty-two
pnrifli churches dependent on them. The Duke of Rothefay, eldeft fon to Robert II.,
who was flarved to death at Falkland by his uncle, was, according to report, buried in
the church of this abbey.

A few miles nior^ to the eaft, on the fame fliore, are the ruins of Balmerino, or Bal-
nvrinoch, a molt beautiful abbey of Ciflercians (tranfplanted from Melrofs), begun by
Alexander II. and his moihcr Emergarda, in 1229, on lands purchafed by her for a
thoufand marks from Kichard de Ruele, who refigned this and the lands of Cultreach
ant! Ballindean to her in 1215, for this pious ufe. Various other donations were be-
llowed on it ; among which may be reckoned Corbie and Birkill, and its parks, be-
queathed by Lawrence of Abernethy, becaufc the royal hjundrefs had left him in her
will a legacy of two hundred marks (tcrling. The prcceptory of Gadvan in Fife alfo
belonged to this abbey, and two or three of the monks always refided on it. The re-
venues of the place were not large, not exceeding feven hundred and four pounds two
fliillings and tenpencc halfpenny in Scots money. At the Reformation Balmerino was
ereded into a barony, in favour of Sir James Kiphinfton.

Near thevilb<:e of Invergovvrie quit the (hire of Perth, and enter that of Angus, and
after a ride of throe or fuur miles arrive at Dundee, a well-built town, feated on the
aelluary of theTav, about eight miles from the mouth, in lat. 56. — 24. 30. long, from
London 3 — 5. 3. weit, and is the third in rank of the royal boroughs. The number
of inhabitants in the town and fuburbs amount nearly to fourteen thoufand. Here are
three eilablifliea churches, with three mniifters and two afliftants, for the difchargd of
the duty of the parilh, which includes a certain diftrift near the town ; befides, there
are two epifcopal chapels, a meeting-houfe for the Glaflites *, and three for the burgher
and antiburghcr fcceders.

The town is feated on the fide of a hi!', and is rather irregularly laid out. Above ft
is Law of Dundee, a mark to fcamen. The harbour is artificially protected by piers,
and furnilhed with a quay, on which are three very handfome public warehoufes, built
in 1756. The largcft iscoinpofed of a centre a hundred feet long, with two handfome
wings, all built of iree-doiie, and their corners adorned with ruftic work. The harbour
is very commodious, and very acceflible by people that are acquainted with it. There
are on the north ftiore, near tht entry of the asfluary, two light-houfes, very completely
finifhed, and well attended, bein the property of the fraternity of feamen at Dundee ;
but the want of a new furvey is luch to be regretted, as the fands have of late years
(hifted : the public therefore look up to the admiralty expedting its attention in this
important article. The port will contain about two hundred fail, has at fpring tides
fourteen feet m ater, and admits velTels of upwards of three hundred tons burden. There
are at preieiit iibout feventy fliips belonging to the place, and one of two hundred and
fixty-four tons, that is employed in the Greenland whale-fiihery. An attempt is now
making to revive the coafting cod-fifhery.

The manufadfures of Dundee are linen, efpecially of Ofnaburghs, fail-cloth, cordage,
threads, thread- Itockings, buckrams (a new work in Scotland), tanned leather, and
fhoes, for the London market ; hats, which has fet afida their importation from Eng-
land for the fupply of thefc parts j and hdlly, as an article of trade, may be mentioned
a fugar-houfe, erected ;>bout feven years ago, which does confiderable bufuiefs. Here
was, in memory of man, a manufadurc of coarfe woollen cloth, called plaiden, which

• Or the foUowtrs o< Mr, John Glafs, founder of ihc fcA of Independent! In North Britain,

VOL. HI. 3 11 was

^l8 pennant's second tour in srOTI.AND.

was exported undrcfled, undycd, to Sweden, (Jermaiiy, and the United Prnvinccs, for
cloathing the troops of thofc countries ; but thi.s \v;is rupctfeded bv tlut of Ol'nahiirphs,
which commenced in the year 1747, and is new the llajilc of the ctninty of Angus.
Tn 1773, 4, 44^,460 vards were Itaiuped ; the price from fourpence l(> fixp.n:'^ a yard.
'J'hefe are Ihipped for London, Ne\vc,\llle, Leith, l^urrowlloneft;, and Glafi^ow, from
vhcnco tiiey are fent to the \Vcil Indies and America, for t!ie cloarhin^ of tiie flavcs.
To the fame phiccs are alfo exported threads, foap, Ihoes, l;;ather, an. I falLiry goods.
To Sweden and Norway are fent potatoes, and dredingij of llix ; auil in tim'\s of plenty,
when exportation is allowed, corn, meal, and llour, i iv,' falmon taken near Brough-
Tav caftle is fent falted to Holland.

In refpecl: to imports, it receives from North America, Rr.fTia, Memi 1 and Dantzick,
Sweden, Norway, Spain, Portugal, the ufnal exnoi ts of thofj countries ; and from
Holland undrett flax, for the manufadure nf threads and line linens, pot-allus, linfeed,
clover-feed, old iron, and madder, fortheufe of dyers. Such is its prefent Hate.

The public buildings, ancient and modern, are th.efe : the magnificent Gothic towrr
of the old church, a venerable and fuperb building, now finding by itfelf, giving reafon
to every fpedator to regret the lofs of the body. The only remains are the cho'r,
called the Old Kirk, whofs well: end is crofTed by another building, divi led into two
places of worfliip, evidently of a later condrudion, and probably built out of the ruins
of the old : the la!l, when entire, was in form of a crofs, and, according to Boethius,
founded by David Earl of Huntingdon, brother to William I of Scoiluud, and dedi-
cated to the blefl'ed Virgin. This happeneii on his return from his third crufade, in
which he had accompanied Richard 1. in 1189, and carried with him five hundred of
his countrymen. After undergoing various calamitie'* incident to thefe pii)us warriors,
on his return to his native country lie was nearly pcrifliing by flnpwreck in fight of this
place, when vowing to crc£t a temple to the Virgin he was inllantly relieved, and fliewed
his gratitude in this fuperb pile *. It mud be confefTed that he called in the aid of other
well-difpofed people ; for he obtained a mandate from the Pope, ftill to be feen in the
Vatican t> recommending, to aflid in the expcnce, a coUeclion throughout Chriftendom.

The time that part of the body of the church was deflroyed is not certainly known ;
it was probably at the time of the Reformation, when the zealots of this place made
excurfions far and wide to deftroy the churches of other cities.

This place had feveral religious honfes ; one of Mathurines, founded by James Lind-
fay, whofe charter was confirmed at Perth, in 1392, by Robert III. Another of Do-
minicans, by Andrew Abercrombie, a burgefs of the town. A third, of Francifcans,
by Devorgilla, daughter to Alan Lord of Galloway; but that was fupportcd only by
alms. Lady Beatrix, dowager of William Earl of Errol, gave them a hundred pounds
Scots, on condition that the monks prayed (with a low voice) for her foul, and that of
her hufljand. In 1482 they confided of a warden and fourteen brethren. The fourih
was a nunnery, whofe name is barely mentioned |.

The town-houfe is a mod elegant drufture, begvin in the year 1750, and finifliod in
1734. It was carried on under the direftions of the father of the gentlemen to whom
we owe the Adclphi. It contains the poft-otFice, the court-room, with vaulted repofi-
tories for the records, the guildhall, and the council-chamber.

• Boethius, lib. xiii. 175, 276.

+ Ic was fhewn to Dodtor William Raitt, in i7-(0, by the Pope's librarian.

I Keith, 243. 272. 274. ifj.

Here

111*1

PEKNANT's SFX'OND tour in SCOTLAND.

419

' '*'ii

Hero is a new church, built in a flylc that docs credit to the phicc, nnJ vvliich fhsws
an onlarpi,enKnt of mind in the j-rclbyterians, who now begin to think that the Lord
may be praifed in beauty of liolinefs.

There is not a relique left of the ancient caftlc; but its fite may be found where ths
Lion inn row (lands.

Two or three miles eafl of Dundee, on the river, are the ruins of the fort called
Brough-Tay Crag ; over againll: which is I'arton Crags, or Eafl; Ferry, from whence
IS the road to St. Andrew's. This place was taken by the Englifli fleet, in 1547, on
the invafion of Scotland by the Duke of Somcrfct. The Knglifh remained in pofleffion
of it till 1550, wlun it was furrendered to the French under M. Defle, who by its cap-
ture freed the Scots from a moil troublelbme neiq-hbour.

This place derives its name from Dim, a hill, and Dee or Tay, the river, on which it
ftands J for Tay feems to have been corrupted from Dee, a common Celtic name for
feveral rivers. Boethius fays that its ancient name was Alectum, but I cannot learn
on wh?t foundation. The Roman fleet entered this a^n:uary, and might have had a
ftatioii n fomc part ; but from diligent enquiry I cannot learn that there have been
either camp or road, or coins, or any other traces of that nation difcovered in the
neighbourhood.

The firft notice I find of it in hlflory is on the occafion before mentioned, when the
Karl of Huntingdon founded its church, and changed, as Boethius aflerts, its name
from Aleftum to Dei Donum. It was a confiderable place in the time of Edward L,
who in his northern progrefs, in 1291, reduced it and other places that lay in his way.
About the year 1311 it was in poifeflion of his fon, who placed there as governor Wil-
liam de Montfichet *. In 14^.3 it entered into an obligation with Edinburgh, Perth,
and Aberdeen to raife eleven thoufand pounds towards paying the ranfom of James I.,
then prifoner in England [• This is a proof of its wealth at that time ; and an evidence
of its commerce in 1458 may be coUecled from the royal privilege granted to it by
James II., of the following tolls towards the repair of the harbour, which were thus im-
pofed : on every Ihip ten (hillings ; on every crayer, bufs, barge, or ballinger, five (hil-
lings; on every fcrcoft, twelve-pence; on every great boat, fix-pence |.

But Dundee received a dreadful check by the fiega it underwent by the Engli(h,
under Gener;U Monk, in September 1651. The governor. Major-general Lumfden,
was fummoned ; but returning a very infulting anfwer. Monk determined to (torm the
place. By means of a Scotch boy he difcovered the (ituation of the garrifon, that it
was fecure, and generally by noon in a (late of intoxication. He made a feint, as if he
intended to raife the fiege ; but returned inftantly with his forces fupplied with (lieaves
of wheat cut out of the neighbouring fields ; with them they filled the ditch, fuccecded
in their attack, and put about fix hundred of the garrifon to the fword. The governor
periflied, as Sir Philip Warwick fays §, by the hands of a fanatic oflicer, after quarter
was given, to the great concern of the humane Monk. The booty was immenfe, for
befides the we.ilth found in the town, there were fixty fail of (hips in the harbour ||.

I mud not quit Dundee without faying thatDudhope, the feat of the gallant Vifcount
Dundee, lies a little north of the place. It had been the ancient refidence of the Scrym-
feours, and was rebuilt in i6co by Sir John Scrymfeour, a family ruined in the civil wars.
It fell at length to the crown, and was granted by James VII. to the Vifcount, then only

f\ Ayhffc's Ancient Calendar?, 123. 306

A ndei foil's Di5l. of Commerce, I. 277.

§ Memoirs, 361.

[! Vide Gumblt'3 Life of G:n. Monk, 4:. Whiuluclci.', jol-i, ^oj

Graham

1!'l

430

FENNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

Graham of Claverhoufo ; on his heroic death it was given to the Marquis of Douglas,
and ftill remains in that houfe.

Aug. 30. In the morning continue my journey, and turn from Dundee northward^
The country grows a little more hilly ; is Itill much cultivated ; the foil is good, but tha
fields of wheat grow fcarcer. Leave on the loft Bahiinbi, a ruined callle with two
round towers. On the right is Clay-pots, one of the feats of the famous Cardinal
Beaton.

Leave, unknowingly, to thn wert; a curious monumental ftonc, fot up in memory of
the defeat of Camus^ a Dahifli commander, flain on the fpot, about the year 994.
According to Mr. Goriion *, it is in foiin of a crols. On one fide is a moll rude
figure of our Saviour crucified ; beneath, a ilrange Centaur-like monfttr with fix legs.
On the upper part of the other fule is a man, his head furrounded with a glory, and an
angel kneeling to him. B; neath arc two forms like iEgyptian mummies; and in the
third compartment, two men with bonnets on their heads and books in their hands.
The battle was fought near the village of Barray, w here numbers of tumuli mark the
place of flaughter ; but Camus Hying, was flain here. Commiflary Maule mentions a
camp at Kaer-boddo, fortified with rampart and fofs, to this day (lyled Norway dikes.

Reach Paninure, a large and txcellent houfe, lurrounded by valt plantations. It was
built about a hundred yi ars ago, on the fite of the feat of the ancient family of the
Mauk's, in the barony of I'anmure, conveyed into that houfe by the marriage of the
heirefs of the place, daughter of Sir William de Valoniis, lord chamberlain of Scot-
land in the rvi^n of Alexander II. Tiiis barony and that of Banevin had been granted
to his father Philip de Valmiis, and confirmed to himfelf by William to be held by the
fervicc providing half a fwldicr whenfoever demanded f.

In the houfe arc fome excellent portr.iils of ilillinguifhed perfonages ; among them
a half-lengtii of the Karl of Loudon, chancellor of Scotland during the civil wars of the
lail century, edeemcd the moll eloquent man of his time, and the mofl adive leader of
the covenanting party. We may learn from his hillory, that the regard pretended by
the faction for the interefls of religion was mere hypocrify. The proof may be co!lec"t:ed
from the imprifonment of this nobleman in the Tower, in the year 1639, for the highed
act of treafon ; for joining in an offer to put his country under the protection of the
French king, provided ho would afiiit; the party in tiieir dcfigns J ; for offering to unite
with powers the moll: arbitrary in Europe, and the moll cruel and inveterate perfecutors
of their Calviniilical brttliren ; but ihe violence of party would have induced them to
have heard a mafs which they pretended to abhor, provided ihey could rejett the inno-
cent liturgy, and tyrainiize over finking monarchy. Afier the quarrel of tlic Scots
with the Euglifh parliament, he united in the endeavours of his countrymen to rillore
Charles 11., yet pafled fentcnce, as chancellor, on the gallant Montrof, with all the
fourncfs of his old trit-nds, and with ail the infolcnce of a Jefierles. On the defeat
of the King at W^orcelter, his new attachments obliged him to avoid the rage of the
ruliiig powers : he (led to the Highlands, at length made his peace, and lived in oblcu-
rity till iiis death in 166^.

A haif-leiigth of the (irft Earl of Panmure, in his robes. He was lord of the bed-
chamber toCJiarles I., and a faithful fervant to 1/is i\Iaje!ly in all fortunes. After the
King's dcaih he retired into Scotland, wiiere, in 1654, he was fined, by an onlinaiiec
of the i'lot'cb'r':- councd, in the .'um of ten llioufuui pounds, for no other reafon than
that iii.s Ions were eng;iged in the royal caufe.

I;iii. ij.;. tab. liii. fig. i.

t Aui'.cr.'br.'s Dii'loinritn, Nj, xxvII;.

X ClarenJon, 1. la;.
James

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

421-

James Earl of Panmure, in a long wig, and armour, difgraced by James II. for non-
compliance wiih that Prince's defigns in favour of popery ; yet, at the convention of
the edates at the Revolution, was a flrenuous advocate in defence of his old mader.
In 1715 carried his attachment fo far as to join the infurgents in favour of the fon ; be-
haved with gallantry at the battle of Sheritl-moor, and forfeited his eftate and honours
in the caufe. »iis neph(>w, by his merit, recovered the title, being created on that fcore
Earl of Panmure in the kinj^dom of Ireland , and fortune, in this inftance a judicious
goddt'fs, fiipplied him witii the means of purchafmg the large family ellate.

A fine head of Princi.' Rupert, looking over one fhoulder.

A fine portrait of the Duke of Monmouth, fitting : his hair long and beautiful ; his
drcfs, a brown fattin mantle, and a laced cravat.

A head of the Duke of Hamilton, killed by Lord Moliun.

Charles XII. of Sweden, with his ulual favage look.

The Due d'Aumont, the French ambafliuior in the reign of Queen Anne, who came
over on the occafion of the peace. He is faid to have paid this fine compliment to the
troops that had helped to reduce the dangerous power of his mafter, by obferving em-
phatically, at a review near London, " that he was very glad to fee them in that
pJace •."

Mr. Colefliill of Chigwell, Yorkfhire, a half-length, in a black cap, furred gown,
with a gold chain.

His daughter, grotefquely drelTed in black ; her arms perfe£tly herijfeh with points.
She was the lady of Sir Edward Stanhope, prefident ot the north, whole pidlure in fmall
is by her.

Auguft 31. Proceed eaftward through an open country, and in two hours reach
Abcrbrothic, or Arbroath, feated on the difcharge of the little river Brothic imo the
fea, as the name imports ; aber in the Britifh implying fuch a fituation. It is a finall
but flourifliing place, well built, and flill encrcafing : the town has been in an improv-
ing ftate for the thirty laft years, and the number of inhabitants greatly augmented.
This is owing to the introducHon of nianiifadures ; the number at this time is faid to
be about three tho'iiand five hundred : thefe principally confift of weavers ot coarfe
brown linens, and ,bme fail-cloth j others are employed in making white and coloured
threads ; the remainder are either engaged in the (hipping of the place, or ia the necef-
fary and common mechanic trades.

The brown linens, or Oliiaburghs, ucre manufaftuved here before any encourage-
ment was given by government, or the linen company eredcd at Edinburgh. The
merchant who fird introduced the manufadurc is itill alive, and has the happinefs of
feeing it overfpread the country. It appears from the books of the (lamp-office in this
town, that (even or eight hundred thoufand yards are annually made in the place, and
a fmall diltrid round. Beiide this export, and that of thread, much barley, and (bme
wheat is fent abroad j but lb populous is the country, that more than an equivalent of
meal is imported.

'I'he foreign imports are flax, flax.feed, and timber, from the Baltic. The coad-
ing trade confills of coals from Borrow (lonefs, and lime from Lord Elgin's kilns in Fife.
The firfl forms aconiideraiilo article of commerce, this being the lalt port to the north
into which that commuUity may be hrougiu, free from the heavy duty commencing after
it has pafltd the promontory, the Rcii [lead. The coalt froni the Buttonefs, or nor-
thern cape of the Firth of lay, is uuirciy deftitute of a port, as far as the harbour

\. . 1C|:

I i

irJ
F

u- .1

ti.i'

if*';.- T'

• Jr..

■1

' <'■''.)

Cbintriunicatcd by the Rev, Mr. Grangci-, to whufc llberiil Uirpaliliun I find nfiyklforteu indebted.

SSw

421

pennant's second tour m scotiand.

of rj<'nirofi'. In fad this oaflern fiile of the kingdom is :\s unfavourah'c to the fcaman
ns it is to the planter. Whofoi'vor will give thcnifclves the trouble of calling their eye
on the niaj', will perceive tiiat from the 1 lumber'? nunith to John-a-Groat'shuile, tlu-re
is an uncommon fcarcity (if retreats for the clillre(li;i.l navi<^ator : they occur feiJom, and
have often near thci • entrances the obllrudions of iiuui to render the accrls illllicult.
On the weflern fide of tlic kingdom nature hath dealt out the harbours with a perfect
profufion ; not a headland can be doubled, but what oH'ers a fafe anchorage to the dif-
trelTed veflel.

Abcrbrothic would have wanted a harbour, had not the aid of art been called in ;
for in default of a natural, a tol(.>rablo artificial one of piers has b-'eii formed, where at
fpring tides, which rife here filteen feet, Ihips ol two hundred tons can C(jme, and of
eighty at neap tides; but they mull lie dry at low water. This port is of gre t anti-
quity : there is an agreement yet extant b'.tv.rin the abbot and the bmyjiers ot Abcr-
brothic, in the year i 194, conrcrning the ni.ikiii;; of the harbour. Hnth parties were
bound to contnbuiL" their proportions ; but the largell fell to the fliare of the former,
for which he wa>- to rece've an annual tav, pavabic out of every rood of land lyin;^
within the borough. This is a royal borougli, am!, with Montrole, Brechin, Inverbervie,
and Alicideen, returns one member to p.nli i-innr.

The glory of this pi. ce was the abbey, whole very ruins give fome idea of its former
magnificence : it lies on a rifiiig above t!ie tuwn, and prelents an extenfive and venc-
r.;ble front; is mod delicioufly lituated, commands a view of the fea to the call, of a
fertile country to the wed, bounded by the Grampian hills ; and to the fouth, of the
op.-nings into the firths of Tay and Forth.

The abbey was once incloled with a (Irong and lofty wall, wiiich furrounded a very
confiderable trad : on the fouth-welt corner is a tower, at prefent the lleeple of the
parich-church ; at the fouth-oaft corner was another tower, with agate beneath, called
the Darn-gate, which, from the word darn, or private, appears to have been the retired
way to the abbey. The magnificent <hurch ftands on the north fide of the Iquare, and
was built in form of a crofs: on the fide are three rows of falfe arches, one above the
other, which have a fine efi'cd, and above them are very high windows, with a circular
one above. In April laft a part adjoining to the wefl end fell fuddcnly down, and de-
llroyed much of the beauty of the place. The length of the whole church is about
two hundred and leventy-five feet, the breadth of the boily and fide-aiflcs, from wall to
wall, fuxty-fevcn : the length of the tranlept an hundred and lixty-five feet ; the breadth
twcnty-fcven.

It feems as if there had been three towers ; one in the centre, and two others on each
fide of the well end, part of which fiill remains. On the Ibuth lide, adjoining the
church, are the ruins of the chaptcr-houfe ; the lowt r part is vaulteii, is a fpacious
room, well lighted with Gothic windows. Al)ove is another good ap.irtment.

The great gate to the abbey fronts the nortli : above the arch had been a large gal-
lery, with a window at each end. At the north- well corner of the monafiery (land the
walls of the regality prilon, of great (Irength and thicknefs : within are two vaults, and
over them fome light apartments. The prifon did belong to the convent, which re-
figned this part of its jurifdidion to a layman, whom the religious elected to judge in
criminal aflairs. The family of Airly had this oflice before the Reformation, and con-
tinued poiTefTed of it till the year 1747, when it was fold and vefled in the crown with
the other heretable jurifdidions.

In the year 1445, the eledion of this officer proved fatal to the chieftains of two
noble families. Tb« convent had that year choltn Alexander Lindefay, efdeft fon of

8 thf

PENNANT 3 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

423

f :\

the Karl of Crawford, to be the judge or bailey of their regality ; but ha proved fo
oxpfiifivc by his number of followers, and high way of living, tliat they were obliged
to riMtjovL- liim, and appoint in his place Alexander, nephew to John Ogilvie of Airly,
who had an hereditary claim to the place ; this occafionod a cruel feud between the
families ; each aflVmblcd their vaflals, and terminated the difpute near the town. The
Liiullays were victorious, but both the principals fell in the battle, with about five
hundred of their followers.

Very i^'W otiur buildings remaiii. In the area within the great gate is to be feen
pan of thi; abbot's lodgings, built on (trong vaults, throe flories high, confiding of
Ibino large and liandfonK* rooms.

This al)!)i;y was founded by William the Lion in 1178, and dedicated to our cele-
bratv'd pti i.ate Thomas a. Hecket. The founder was buried here, but there are no
remains of his tcmb, or of any other, excepting that of a monk of the name of Alex-
andcr Nicol. '1 he monks \ve;e of the Tyronenfian order, and were fird brought from
Kello, whofe abbot declared thole of this place on the firft inQitution to be free from
his Jurifdiction. 1 he lad abbot w;\s the famous Cardinal Beaton, at the fame time arch-
bifhop of St, Andrew's, and, before his death, as great aitd ablblute here as Wolfey
was in F.nghmd. On the KcK rmation, Jchn Hamilton was commendatory abbot. In
i6:8 it was eredted into a barony, in favour of his fon James, then was conveyed to
the Earl ol' D)fart, and finally bought by Patrick Maule of Paimiure, with the patron-
age of thirty four pounds.

The revenues were very groat : in the year 15^2, they were reckoned twothoufand

five hundred and fifty-throe pounds Scots, befides the va(t contributions of corn from

the tenants, who paid their rents in kind. The ordinance for the yearly prov'fion of

the houfe in 1530, will ferve to give fomc idea of the great charity and hol'pitality of

of the place. There was an order for buying,

800 weathers,

i8o oxen,

1 1 barrels of falmon,

1200 dried cod-fifli.

All which appears additional to the produce of their lands, or what thei. tenants

brought in. This profufion of dores would feem very extraordinary, when the r.um-

bcr of monks did not exceed twenty five : but the ordinance acquaints us, that the

appointments of that year exceeded thofe of 1528, notwithilanding in the lid the king

had been there twice, and the archbifliop thrice. In the chartulary of the tioufe, thefe

vifiis are complained of as an intt)lerable burden, and with rcafon, for befides loading the

abbey with vad expence, it deprived thcn\ of the means of exerting their ulual ho'pi-

tality towards the poor.

King John, the Englifh monarch, granted this monadery mod uncommon privileges ;
for, by charter undtr his great feal, he exempted it a teloniis ct conflict luiine in very
part of England, except LiMuion.

In this monadery Robert Bruce convened the nobility of this kingdom, who here
framed the fpirited letter and rcmondrance to Pope John, dated April 6, 1320; in
which they trace the origin of the Scots from the greater Scythia, through ihc Tyrrhe-
nian fea, and the pillars of Hercules into Spain ; they inform him that they expelled
the ancient Britotis, dedroyed the PiiSts, and maintained this kingdom free, through a
a race of 113 kings of uninterrupted lineal defccnt. They drongly ad'ert their inde-
pendency of the F.iiglifii, and dilclaim the right that EdwanI 11. prctendeil i.^ the
kingdom. They entreat his IJolinefs tu admonilh Edward to dcfilt from liii^ iiudiiiiies ;

and

82 chalders of malt,
30 of wheat,
40 of meal,

tli;

»' «ia

til

'1^ %'

1
1

11,

;*.■■

■11

"i>^

424

PENNANT'fl SrcOND TOUR !N FCOTI.AKD.

and heroicjilly :\rquaint the Pope, that even fliouli.1 nine- dcfort thar caufo, tli^y w nilJ
choofe anotluT h .kUt, (fo liitio notion luul they < vc ii thin rf horcilitary right,) and
never lubniit cvi li to (.■Niri'iniiy to tho unjiiit pri'tciiCioiis oi' the Kuplini tnoii:\i\-h.
" Ciii (Ruberto) tanqu.ini illi per qiiein I'ahis in popiilo ladta ell, pro nwllra iib^rtatr
tuenda tani jure qiiaui im ritis tenenuir et voUunus in oiiiiiilnis ailher re; qvicm fi ab
inceptis defiiterit l'{ef;i .\ni;loruin ant An_i;liei ; nos aiit rei;num nollrinn vol.-na liilj-
jicere, tanquain ininiicuin tioilnini, et fiii iiolhilipie juris fiiltverlonMu, Ihnim expellore
nitereniur, et aiiuni regein nollruin, qui ad deteiilioiieni nollrvun lulliiTret, raLereniu.-.
Quia quanidiu centum vivi renianleriiit, nunquani An;^loruin iloniino aliquaieuus vo-
lunius fubjugari ; non enini |)roptcr gloriaiu, iliviiiis aur hoiu>res puj;naniu;>, led
propter iibertatem fohunniodo, qui nemo bonus nili liuud cun» vita aniitlit,''

'1 here is no iinmediaie anfwer Iroin liie I'ope extant ; Init tliere is realon to fiippofe
tliat this very intportant reinonllrance had great wei'^ht ; (or in Auj^uft ol the lan»«
year, he fent a bull * to Kdward. to exliort hiin to n>ake peace with the Scots, in order
that the operations agaiiill tiie Inrulel.s in the Holy-land nnj.;ht be luirlucd wiiliout in-
terruption. There is alio a kit -r In^n his HoPncIs i tc^ ihs lame prince, lo acquaint
him, that at the eaniell nquelt of Rol ert, he had fufpiiidtd the lenience of cxrom-
munication, perhaps ihrouyh fear of lofnij; tlic whole Scottilh nation by too rigorous
a procedure.

After dinner continue my j nit-ney towards Montrofe. I am informed that near the?
road Hands the cliureh of St. Vidian, a CJotliic buildiiip; iupp>)rted by pillars, with
illes on each lide, and iKuuling on a pretty green mount, in ilie niidil ol a valley, 'i'ho
church returns a fine echo, repeating dillincUy an hcKanuter verfi*.

Pals through an open country, and oblerve, that the plantations are vaflly moflT'-d,
being expofed to the cankering blalls of the eallern winds, winch bring with ihein fre-
quent rain«i, and great volumes of black fog. Ride by cxtcnlive fields of peas and po-
tiUoes ; the lall a novelty till williin the lall tweniy years.

The open country continues as far as Lunan,wh re theinclofnres commence. To the
right is the promontory called the Ked-head, forming one horn of Lunan bay, ojien to
the call v\iiid. The (hore in this part is high, bold, and rocky, and often excavated
with vail hollows, extrjinely worthy the attention of the traviik-r; no place exhibits
a greater variety ; fome open to the lea, with a narrow mouth ; and, i.,ternally, in-
ftantly rife into lofty and fpacious vauhs ^md fo extenfively nitandring, that no one has,
as yet, had the hardinels to explore the iid.

Others of ihefe caves fhew a magnificmi entrance, diviiled in the middle by avail
column, forming two arches of a h( ight anJ grandeur that Ihames the work of art in the
noblell ot the Gothic cathedrals. J he voy.iger may ;imure himfelf by entering in a boat
on one fi e of the pillar, Imr' unding it, and n turni.ig to the da on tlie other. But
the moll allonilhing of all is \he cavern, called the Geylit Pot, that alinolt realifcs in ro-
niantic form a lable in the Pertian 1 ah s. The traveller m.iy make a confiderable fiib-
terraneous voyage, with a pictun 'que fcenery of lofty rock above, and on every fide;
he may be rowed in this folemn Icene fill he finds hiujfelf fuddenly tellored to the fight
of the heavens; he finis himf. It in a circidar chalm, open to the day, with a narrow
bottom, atu! extenfive top, widiiiing at the margin to two hiin.lrtd le i in diameter ; on
gaining the lummit a moft umxpetted proljvd appears; he rinds himfelf at a dillance
from the lea, an)iilll corn fi.Uis, enjoys a tine view of the ccuntry, and a gentle-
.man's feat at a fmall dillance from the place out of which he emerged. Such

Hymft'i Fvdrrn, ii fi^fi.

t Idem, 848.

may

l>RNNANT*a HECOND TOtJR IN SCOTLAND.

415

may be tho amufoment of the ciirioiis in the cahiis of the fummcr-fcafon ; bm
when tlie dorm isilircdtoil from the call, thi* view troiii the edge of this hollow is trc-
iik'IkIous ; for from the lui^iit of above threi? hundred feit, they miy look down on th«
furious w;ivfs, whitened wifli foam, and fwelliu'; in tiu'ir lonj; conhnement.

The clills of this Hiorc are not without their lingularitieR : peniufulatcd rocks, of (lu-
ponilous height, jut frequi-ntly from their front, pncipirous on all fidoij, and walhed by
n ^reat do|)th of water : the itUiiuiis that joins them to the land is extremely narrow,
impadablc for any more than two or three perfons a-hreail ; but the tops of the rocks
fpread into verdant areas, containin;^ veilij^es of ruile foriilications, in ancient and bar-
barous times the retreat of the neiidibourinfi; inhabitants froM\ the too powerful invader.

On the fouth fide of I.unan water is Red-call li-, once a reiidence of William the
l.ion. After croilinj^ thut water, the country beciuncs inclolecJ, and divided into fields
of about ei^;ht or ten Sooich acres ia lize, fi-nced with walls or banks, plante^l with
French furze, or with white-thorn. A great fpirit of huibandry appears in thefe parts,
dpeeially in the paiifh of Cliaij;, which I now enter. The improvements were origi-
nally bej^im by two brothers, Meil'rs. Scotts, of Rodie and Duninald, wlio about forty
years a}.;o made their experimi-nt on an citato of eij;ht or nine hundred a year value ;
and at i)rei"nt they or their heirs find the reward of indullry by receiving; from it three
th(Mirand pounds per atimmi. The principal manure is lime, but every Ipccies of good
huibandry is piadifed here, ami the produce is correlpoiulent ; all kinds of grain
yield fix from on.-; the f;rals-land is let from iwcnty-five to thirty fliillings an acre.
The improvements made of .1 farm on live hundred a year, held by Mr Patrick Scott,
mull not be f()ri;otten, ar~ he has the merit of making land not worth five (hillings per
acre, at prefent worth twenty. There need no llronger proof of the improvements in
huibandry, and the fertility of the land in this neighbourhood, than to mention the an-
nual exports of hear, meal, and malt, from the port of Montrofe, which in favourable
feafons amount to twenty ihoufand bolls.

On the fouth tide of this paiilh (which is a prontontory between Lunan bay and
the South Efls.) is a great body of bhiiHi limeftone, 1 may fay, at prefent tantalizing the
honell fanner, who by reafon of the dcarnefs of coal is forbidden the ufe of it ; a fatal
duty oi thrct: (hillings and three-pence a ton on all coal, commencing at the Red-head,
to the infinite prejudice and difcouragcment of rural economy in thefe parts. The
tho«i!;htlefs impofition of a tax, before the ufe of lime was fcarcely known in thefe
parts, is now ftverely felt, and obliges the farmers to negleft the cheap manure Provi.
dvnce intended for them ; and at great cxpence to import their lime from the Earl
of F.lgin's works on the Firth of Forth, which cofts them about fcventeen pence per
boll. Nature hath denied them coal, peat, and wood ; fo that at prefent they cannot
burn their lime with the imported fuel at lefs than twenty-pence the boll.

Reach the village of Ferryden, oppofite to Montrofe, and, crofTmg over the (Irait or
entrance to the harbour, arrive there late at night.

Montrofe, or more properly ^1 Mi-roi's, derives its name either from Moin rofs, the
fenny promontory •, or from Ni.int er ofc, the mouth of the ftream t, is feated partly
on an ilhnu.s, partly on a peninfula, bounded on one fide by the German ocean, on the
other by a large bay, called the halbn or back lands. This peninfula is evidently a
large beach, formed in old times by the fea, as appears by digging to any depth J.

• Irvine's Momencl. Scot. ij,H. | Baxter, Gloff. Ant. Brit. 170.

( Mr Maitl itul, vol. i p. 20 j, (tippoffs thif the tjravel, thus ilifcovercd, to have been the matenali of »
Rdtiiai) WAV. which w.is foiitiniifd fartlier noiih ; and afl'iTts, that there are vcftiges of a camp On th«
■t.i^'hh('iirii'(; links or faiidy pl.iiii, but 1 received not the Icall account ot any fuch antiquitie*.

VOL. HI. 3 I The

114

V 1

I' 'Hrn

^*^^^^w^^^^3s^5^¥55^

BOI

446 rCNNANT's S2C0ND TOUR IM SCOTLANDi

The end of this forms one fide of the entrance to the harbour ; a rocky point, called
by Adair, Sciirdincfs, at this time Montrofe-nefs, lies on the I'outh-fide, and certain
fands, called the Annot, on the northern. On the firft is a fquare tower, a fort of
light- houfe, to dircft the courl'e of velfels in dark nights. The Annot fantls, after
violent ftorms from the caft, appioach nearer to the Nefs, bi't are again removed tO'
their (Id limits by the iloods of the Elk, a circumltance to be attended to by mariners.
The tide rufhjs up this entrance with a great head and vail fury, but the depth of
water is confiderablc, being fix fathoms in the middle, about three days bi?fore iprini.!;-
tide. The breadth is fcarcely a quarter of a mile, but the bafon inlhmtly expands into
a beautiful circle of conliderable diameter ; but unfort''-iately moll of it is dry at low
water, except where the Southefk forms its channel, in which veili. I^i of fixty tons will
float even at the loweft ebb. Inch-broik lies on the fouth iide of the entrance, and
oppofite to that is the pier, which Ihips of any Cvac may roach, tl\at can bear the grou'ul
at low water.

Montrofe is built on the eaft fide of the bafon, and confifts chiefly of one large flrcot,
a confidcrable breadth, terminated at one end by the town-houle or ToU-boolli ; a
handfome pile,withelegant and convenicntapartmcntsfor the aflemblies of the magillrales.
The houfes are of rtone, and, like thole in Flanders, often with their gable ends towards
the flreets. The houfe in which the Marquis of Montrofe was born is fiill to be Teen. Th;i
town contains about fix thoufand inhabitants, of which fifteen hundred are Epiicopalians,
the reft arc of the elhblilhed church, with theufual fchifms of Seceders, Glallltes, Non-
jurors, 5cc. Numbers of genteel families, independent of any trade, refuie here as a place of
agreeable retreat, and numbers keep their carriages ; thele are principally of tl;e church
of England. '1 heir chapel, which was founded in 1722, is very neat, has a painttd
altar-piece, and a finall organ. It is occafionally frequeuted by the Preibyterians, who
ihcw here a moft laudable moderation. It is chiefly in the fouth and fouth-well, that
religious bigotry rJgns, and that ufually among the common people. Our biflio; s, who
have vifitcd Scotland, have never failed meeting with a treatment the moll poiite and
refpeftful, but the introduction of the order is impraclicable in a country where the
natural as well as reli^Jmis objcclions are fo llrong ; for the finances of North Bi itaiii
can never bear the pomp of religion, even (hould the people be induced to admit the
ceremonial part.

In the times of popory the Dominicans had a convent hero, founded by Sir A'.l m
Durward, in the year 1230. The friers wtre afterwards tranfporied to an hoi'pitai
near this city, rebuilt by Patrick Panter, but in 1524 were permitted to return to iiu;ir
old fjat •. Maitland fays, that tlvir houfe was caiied tlu abbey of Celurca ; I fup-
pofe from the ancient name of the lown which Bo.tliius belh^ws on it.

The town has increafed one-third fincc the year 1745; at that time there w.'s not a
fjngle nunufaclure, the inhabitants lived either by one another, or by the hiring out
of Ihips, or by the f.dmon trade. At prefent the maiiufac1ur-s have rilen f'^ a great
pitch : for example, that of lail-cloth, or fail duck, as it is lure called is very roii-
liderable; in one houfe eighty-two thoufand five hundred and lixiy-lix pieces liavo
been n)ade fince 1755. Each piece Is (hirty-eight yards long, and numbered from VIU,
to I. No. VUI. weighs twetiry-four pounds, and every piece, down to No. I., gains
three pounds in the piece. 'I'he thread for this cloth is fpun here, not by thecouimon
vlieti but by the l.;inds. Women are employed, who have the llax placed round their
waiilb, twill a t!n\ad with each liand as they recede Ironi a wheel, turned by a bov at
the end of a <;rcat room.

Kcldi,

:o.

Coarf*-

PENKANT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

4*7

Coarfe cloth for fliirts for the foKlicrs is alfo made here ; befides tli'is, coarfe linens,
which are font to London or Manchofter to ho printed; and cottons, for the famepur-
pofe, are printed nt Perih. Gn-at quantities of line linen, lawns and cambricks are
nianufadTlured in ihis town, the lall from two Ihillings and fix-pence to five Ihillings a
yard. Diapirs and Ofnahurghs make up the fuin of the weaver's employ; which are
exported to London, and from tlience to the Well-Indies.

Mrch thread \r- fpiiii here, from t\vo fliillingp and fix-pence to five (hillings a pound.
It is Ipun both in town and countiy, and brought here by the rural fpinlters to be
clcaiuJ and made into parcels : and much of it is coloured here.

'IIk- Ijle.ichcry is vory confidcrablo, and is tho property ui the town: it is not only
iifod by the manufaftinvrs, but by private families, for the drying of their linen; all
paying a ccrtai' .ce to the perfcm who rents it from the magiftrates. The men pride
tliemfelvcs on the l".nuity of their linen, both wearing and houfchold ; and with great
rc;'.('on, ns it is the effect oi the Ikiil aiid induflry of their fpoufes, who fully emulate the
charad 'r of ilie good \\ife, fo admirably defcrilx'd by the wife!! of men.

'j'he f'.lii'on fidiory of tliefr parts is v.ry coiifideraljle ; from ii.\ hundred to a thou-
fand h3n:^ls ai-e annually exported, valued at three pounds each ; and about fifteen hun-
dred pounds worth of kitted or pickled fiili. I\Iuch of thelrLfli fiili is fold into the coun-
try, Irom three hahpence to two pence-hallpcinny a pound. The filhermen begin to
take ialmoiis about the fccon.l of Fe!)ruary, and leave oil" at Michaelmas. Its import-
ance has been conlidercd in very early times, and the legiflature confulted its preferva-
tion by molt fevere penalties *.

(Quantities of white-filh, fuch as the cod kind, turbots, &c. might be taken on the
great land banks olTthis coalh The long Kortys extend parallel to it ; and beyond that
lie Moiitrofe pits f, <i great bank with fix pits in it of uncommon depths, and fingular
in their fituation. They are from forty to a hundred fathom deep, reckoning from the
furface of the water, and pollibly may be fubmarine fwallows. Thefe banks fwarni
witli fifh, but are fhamefullv negleded, or left perhaps to foreigners. In the laif cen-
tury about five huniired barks and boats, which during winter were employed in the
lierring fiflieiy on thefe coaRs, during fpring and part of fumiuer turn their thoughts to
t!ie capture of cod and ling J, and alter curing, carried their cargoes to Holland, Mam-
burgh, iito the Halrie, to England and to France. By fome mifchance this filhery was
loll; atid the cirgocsto Hollanders and llamburghers fairly beat the natives out of
their trade. In ihe time of Htiu-y VIIl. England was fupplied with fait filh from this
iijarkcr : the Ilabhciilyn ■, Abertloen) lilh was an article in every great larder §.

IiicrcJi le nun.;);"rs of lo!'ilcrs are taken on this coalt, from the village of Ufan.
5:>ixty orfevcntv thnu'anil are fent annually to London, and fold at the rate of twopence
l:alii)ei)nv a-plL-e, provided they are live inches round in the boJy » J^'^d if lefs, two are
allowed for one 'I'lw attention of the natives to this fpccies of fdhery is one reafon of
the negle(5t of that of white filh, to the great lot's of the whole country, which by this
inattention is deprived, of a ciieapand comlortable diet. Agates of very beautiful kinds
;.re gatlured in quamiii.s bmealh thfclifls, and fent to the lapidaries in London.

1 caiuK^t diicover any voltiges of antiquity about this place, except a large mjunt
called the Eorthill, on tlieealt h^'e m" the town. No marks are left of its ever having
been fe.rtili.d ; but the materials uiight have been applied to other purpofes ; and
there is a tradition that it was in lull repair when Edward ill. was in Scotland.

• \':o-"".nr, i • ft;. <- n;im!i.oiul's Cli-n't of the Nor'h ?ca.

\ Ai.coiiipt ninciii l>eUvt.cn I'liglaiiJ and Scot'.iiikl. p 2'i. ^ NoniiumhtrhnJ Houfliold Book.

•: I 2 Bocthius

,j; ll|

li ,'l!

1 1

'iii-^'l

fiMi iin«Mi«iiMi(ai„

42S

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

Boethius • relates, that it was a fortified place at the landing of the Danes, a little before
the battle of Loncarty : that thofe barbarians put the inhabitants to the fword, levelled
the walls, and deflroyed the caltle. This the only remarkable event which I can dif-
cover to have happened to the town. In this century it was diflinguifhed by the flight
of the Pretender, who, on the 4th of Ftbruary, 17 16, el'capcd on board of a frigate
which lay in the road, and conveyed him fafe to Fiance.

September i . This day we were honoured with the freedom of the town ; and
handibmely entertained by the >n;igi(lrates. I obferved that the L-al of the diploma
was imprclfed with roles allufive to its prefent name, which feems a poetical fiction :

Aurcolis iitbs p'\Aa rofis : niuiis mnlliter urbi

linminct, liinc uibi iiomina f:ii\.\ caiiunt.
At vcltri's pttliibtiit quoiul m ilixifl'c Cclurcani,

Nomint lie piifco tt nobillitata novo ell.
lit piif. a a'qiie i:ova iiirii;ni3 viitute, viruinque

Ingciiiis, Patriae qui pc|icrerc dccus f .

Leave Montrofe, and after five mik-s riding, crofs the North-Efk, at North Bridge.
This river and that of South-Elk ril." in the extroine northern borders of the county,
among the Benchichin hills : this, flowing along Glcndk, retains the fame name from
the fource to the fea ; the ether is called the White Water for a confiderable way from
its fountain. Near this bridge is 1" gglis Madie, Ecclefia Magdalcna', the feat of the
Falconers, barons of Halkerton, whole family took its name from the office of an ancef-
tor, falconer to William the Lion. After pafling the river, enter the county of Merns ;
or, the fliire of Kincardine.

Some derive the firit from Merns, a valiant nobleman, who, fubJiiing the country,
received it in reward from his princo Kinneth II. Camden with miich probability
fuppofes it to retain part of the name of the old inhabitants, the Veniiconcs cf Ptolemy,
it being common for the Britons in difcourfc :<< thange the V into M. The other
name is taken from the ancient capital, Kincardine, now an inconfiderablc village.

Lie this night at the village of Laurence Kirk. The cultivation of the land in the af-
ternoon's ride appeared lefs llrong than on the South-Elk ; but qrcat cflbrts are making
towards the improvement of the country. Streams of corn fecm darting from the hills
towards the centre of the valley, and others again radi.ite from ihe coafls : I doubt not
but in a few years the oblcure or heathy parts will entirely vanifli, and this whole trad
become one glory of cultivation.

September 2. Proceed through a fine rich bottom, called the hollow of the Merns,
bounded on one fide by the Cirampian hills, on the other by a rifing ground, that runs
almolt parallel to them. 'I'hi- Grampians prefent here a low heathy front ; the hollows
and theeaftern bonndary fertile in corn. Pafr, near the two feats of MelTrs. Carnegie,
and Lord Gardinfton. Crofs the water of Bervie, which falls into the fea a few miles to
the eaft. Near its mouth lies the fmall town of Inner-hcrvie, made a royal burgh by
David Bruce, who landed there affer his long retreat into France. The rock he de-
barked on is to this day called Craig Davy.

Near the village of Druni-lelhie the country grow9 hilly and heatiiy. Pafs near
Glen-bervie, the Icat of Sir Jarn(S Nicholfon. Incline now towards the fhore,and find
an improvement in the country, which continues till I reach

Stone-hive, or Stone-iiaven, is a fmall town, but the head of the burgh of the (hire :
the flierifi's court liaving been removed from Kincardine to this place by ad of parlia-

• Lib. XI. p. 218.

t Jonftpo,

ment

:-s

IM NNANT S SJiCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

42y

ment in the reign of James VI. It is placed at the foot of fome hi^h cliffs in a fmall bay,
with a mod rocky bottom, in one part opening a little, fo that fmall veffels may find ad-
mittance, but that mult be at high water. A pier laps over this harbour from the north
fide, to give them fecurity after their entrance. 1 he town confifts of about eight
hundred inhabitants. The manufadures are fail cloths and Olhaburghs, which began
about fcven years ago ; and contributed much to make the place more populous.
Here is alfo a confiderable one of knit worded and thread (lockings. Women gain
four-pence a day by knitting, and fix-pence by fpinning ; the men, a {hilling by weav-

The manufaclures of thr* Merns may be divided thus : the (locking trade employs the
nptivrs from the banks of the Dee to this place. From hence to the North-Efk they
are wholly occupied in weaving.

Vifit the celt brated caftle of Dunnoter, built on a lofty and peninfulated rock, jut-
ting into the fea, and divided by a vail chafm, a nutural fofs, from the main-land. The
conipofition of the rock is what is called Plumb pudding ftone, from the pebbles lodged
in the hard cement. Kittiwakcs arid fome other gulls breed on the fides.

The entrance is high, through an arched way. Beyond that is another, with four
round holes in front, for the annoying any enemy who might have gained thefirft gate.
The area on the tcp of this rock is an Englifh acre and a quarter in extent. The build-
ings on it ari? numerous, many of them vaulted, but few app; ared to have been above a
century and a half old, excepting a fquare tower of a confiderab'e height, and the build-
ings that defend the approach. The fides of the rock are precipitous, and even that
part which impends over the iflhmus has been cut, in order to render this fortrefs flill
more fecure. The cillcrn is alniod filled up ; but had been of a great fize, not lefs
than twenty-nine feet in diameter.

The view of the clifl's to the fouth is very pi^lurefque. They projeft far into the
fea, in form of narrow but lofty capos. 'I'heir bafcs are often perforated with great
arches, pervious to boats.

Thiscadle was the property of the Keiths, earls Marechalsof Scotland, a potent and.
htroic family : but in the 1715, by one fatal Hop, the fortune and title became forfeited j
and our couiury loll the fcrviccs of two moll dillinguiflied perfonages, the late earl,
and his brother the general, the abkfl oflicer of the age. According to the Scotch
pt'crage *, the property of the Keiths in this county came to them, in the reign of David
IJrUce, by the marriage oi Sir William to Margaret, daughter of Sir John Frafer : but I
have been informed that this fortrefs had been the property of an Earl of Crawford,
who exchanged it for an eilate in Fife, with an Earl Marechal, on condition that he and
his dependants (hould, in cafe of uecelfity, be permitted to take refuge there.

About the year i 2^6 this callle was taken by Sir William Wallace, who, according to
his hidorian, Blind Marry f, burnt four thoufand Englifhmen in it. I fortiear to re-
peat Ills account, finct' he is fuppofcd by the judicious annalilt to have been an impoilor.

In 1336 it v.a^ rc-fortified by Edward 111 , in his progrefs through Scotland ; but as
foon as the conqueror quitted that kingdom, the guardian. Sir Andrew Murray, in-
ftar.tly retoi-k it. Hillory leaves us in the dark after this for a very long period. I do
not ietoil<.d any mention of it till the civil wars of trie lalt century, when it was be-

• Crnwfutil's 3 ig.
' f 'I lie liiic 10 his poem informs us that it was compoftd la Ij6i ; bat that mud be a miftakc ; for
Miji'T. M'lio wiv>te in '518, TjNb, that Ulinil Harry lived whtn he was a child, compofcd the life of Wallace,
»;id, like Humtr got his livtlihood by rttiiiiig hii vtrfts at the houfts of great men. Major gives but
liul-: credit to the ^'oi:n. Set lib. iv. c 15.

fieged;

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430 PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

fiegcd, ami the church again burnt. The tmcliiion is, that it was defended by the
I'.arl Marcchal, againft the Marquis of Monirofc, by the perfuLillon of Andrew Cant.
The marquis, according to the barbarous cuftoni of the time, fot fire to the country
aroi;nJ ; which, when Andrew faw, he told the noble owner, that the flames of his
houfes " were a fweet-fmclling favour in tl;e nofhils of the Lord ;" fuppofing that his
lordfliip fullered for rightcoufnels' fake. This cafUe was inhabited till the beginning of
the prcfent century, when an agent for the York-buildiiig company reduced it to tlie
prelent ruinoi;s rtatc by pulling down and felling many of the material;;. '1 he annota-
, tor on Canu'i nientionG the (lately rooms in the now buildings anil tho library. He
alfo fpeaks he.-?, of St. Pardie's church, famous for boin.g the burial place of Sr.
r.illaiiius, who in 431 was fent by Pope Ciulellinc to preach the gofpel to th.e Scots :
Init it lies about fix miles well of Stone hive, in a deep den, environed on all fides but
the foiith by li- :h mountains.

Wait on Robert B;irclay, Efq ; at his feat at Urie, about a mile diflant from Stone-
hi.e. This gentleman, by the example he lets his neighbours in the fine managemi.nr
«^f lu's land, is a moll ufeful and worthy character in Ins country. i-I ■ has been long a
peripatetic obfc'-ver of the I'iil'ercnt modes of agriculture in all parts of Great-Britain :
his journics being on foot, followed by a fervant with his baggage, on horfeback. Ho
has more than once walkci! to London, and by way ot experiment has gone eighty
n.iles in a (iav. He has ledu :ed his remarks 10 pradiee, much to liis honour and
eiViolumrnr. Th? barren heaths that once furnninded him, are now converted into rich
fields of wheat, bear, or oats ; and his clover was at this time under a fecond harvcft.

He is lik'.wiie a great planter: he fills all his dini;ks with trees, but avoids planting
tho eminences, for he fays they will not thriv • on this eaderncoail, except in iheltcred
boitoms. The few^ plantations on the upper grounds are Hunted, cankered and mol's.
grown.

Mr. Barclay favoured mo with the following accoui\t of the progrefs of his improvc-
mcn;^. Uc fi;!l lit abf)ut them with fpirit in the ye.v,- 1768 ; linee which he has re-
cl.iimcd about four hundred acres, and coitinues to rnnlh about a luuulred annually,
by draining, kvelling, cl.-aring aw:,y the (tones, and liming. Tiiefe, with the
ploughing, feer', &c. amount to tiie expence of ten pounds an acre. The firfl: crop
is com-.nonly oats, and bvingsin iix povinds an acre: the fecond, white peas, worth
fomctimcs as nuich, but ccnorally only four pounds : turnips are third cr. >ps, and ulually
worth fix pounds; the (ourth is barley, of the fame value : clover ("ucceeds, worth
about four pounds: and la(ly wheat, which b:'iri^s in about (even pounds tea (hillings
an acre, but ofiener morr.

As foot! as the land is once thorou;:hly improved, it is thrown into lids courfe : tur-
nips, barley, clovi r and wheat; fon-.eiimes turnips, barley, clover and ry-.grafs. He
irinctimes breaks up the lait (or white pe?s, ami afterwards for wh'Mt : andibmetimcs
fa'lr.ws from the gr\fs, an^l manures it for whiat, by (biding his fheep

■] he land tlnis improved was originally heath, and ven that which was arable, pro-
<!i:ced mod tniferaJ'le crops of a poor dec;enerate > ;, and was npon the whole not
worth two iTiillings an acre ; but i;i ns prelent improved (Late is wonh twenty, and the
ttnants live twice a.- well as before the improveinrnt.

Some of the fields have been (allow eil (rem lr;uh, imuI fown with vheaf, and pro-
duced large crops, (Jne ficki of thirty-four acres, wiiith had been moilly heath, was
the firif vcar falioued. i!r;.ined, cleared <if tlie fion^s, limed, 5cr. and (own with \\lie,,r,
which produced in the l.ontion market tivo himdr-dand l- v^nty p,ou; d' , cl- ar of all
exptnces. Mr. liarclay has lately trcct \1 a mih ior (Im (i. ur, the on y o.ie in tiie

li Lou:u^,

PENNANT S SliCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 43 1

county, which fully anfwers ; and has ferved to encourage many of his neighbours to
fow wheat where it was never known to be railed before. At prefent near eight hun-
dred bolls are annually produced within ten miles of the place.

The firlf tut nips for feeding; of cattle wc»"0 raifcd by this gentleman : and the markets
ai'c now plentifully fupplied with h\(h beef. Before that period frefh meat v, :'s hardly
known in thefe paru^, durinjj; the winter and fpring months. Every perfon killed his
cattle for winter provifions at Mich;u'luias ; and this was called laying-in time. Necef-
lity urged this"; for fo low was the Hate of farming, that winter fodder for the fattening
of cattle was then unknown. So that this country, till within thefe few years, was in
the fame condition with that of Kngland above three hundred years ago : in that period
beeves, flicep, and hogs were killed at I\I,irrinn.-5S, and preferved failed till the fpring ;
when vegetation was renewed, and the half Ihirvecl cattle recovered their fi..(h,a:i'd were
become hi fur fl.uiphter : fo that the feafon of frelh meat fcarcely killed half the yeai".
The Hebrides are dill in this fitualion.

The great grand-father of Mr. Barclay was not lefs eminent for his improvements in
allairs fpiritual. The celebrated Robert Barclay made Urie his refidence, and here
compofed that apology ior the Ouakers which will ever remain an evidence of his attli-
ties and his piety. His moderate difpofuion and cool head gave credit to the fed ; for
it was the peculiar happincfs of George Fox to have united himfelf with hie worthy
brother, fince George's tenet^', as Moiheim exprefles, delivered by him in a rude, cou-
fufed, and ambiguous manner, wci ? prefcjited in a diiferent form by the maiterly hand
of Barclay, who dreflcd them with fuch fagacity and art, that they aihnned the afpeft
of a regular fyftem. To him then is owing the purification of the opinions of the pro-
feflbrs of it at this time. He was the great reformer of quakerifm, and his foUuwcrs
iviay exult in him as in one who would do honour to any reli 'ion.

September 3. Leave Urie, and return by the fame road as far as Red Mears, where
We turn to the north-well:, and travel near the foot of the Grampian hills, through a
fine open country. Go near the hcule of captain Falconer, with excellent improve-
ments around ; and foon after by Fafque, the f^at of Sir Alexander Ramfiiy, a gentle-
man dillinguiflied for the fine method of agriculture. Stop at Fettcr-cairn, a fmall
village, for the fake of refrefhing ourfelves and horfes.

Ill this morning's ride, obferve a p;irticular neatncfs in the cottages of ihe country.
Tiiey arc made i-ither of red c'ay, or oi I'ods, placed on a fione foundation ; the roofs
are prellily thatched, and bound by a neat net-work of twilled llraw rope, which keeps
them extremely tigiu.

Near I'ctter- cairn wiis the rcfulence of Finella, the dauglit r of a nobleman of large
poiilff.oiis in tl;is country, infamous for her aiValli nation of Kenneth 111 , in 994. She
artfully ir.finuated herfelfinto his favour, and inveigling hini into her palace (under pre-
tence of revealing fome confpiracies, fhe was really privy to) there caulod him to be mur-
dered. The place was belli: by his friends, but Finella efeaping out of a window, joined
the confederates in her wickednefs. Sueli is the relation given 1 y Boethiiis and Bu-
clianan*, but the relations of tliol'e earlv timey are often doubtful and fabulous.

About two miles from tiiis place, on the road-fuie, is a cairn, of a ilupendous fize,
and uueouunon form, which probably might give name to the pariih. Tiie fhape is ob-
long, and the height at leult thirty feet. At fome dillance from t!ic ground the fides
are funned into a broad terrace : the cairn rifes again conhderably above that, and con-

1:'

,'"■(£

,1,

l^nttluii';, lib. XI. p, rjj. Buchanan, lib. VI c. 41.

A'.i^'ilix.

M.ijor, p. 94, calls the lady, Comitlfia

'li

432

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLANX).

fifls of great loofe ftoncs, mixed with much femi-vitrified or hva like matter. On one
fide is a large long (lone, probably once creft. Along the top is an oval hollow, about
fix feet deep : its length, within, a hundred and fifty-two ; the breadth, in the middle,
fixty-fix ; the length from the outfido of the furrounding dike, a hundred and fixty-
feven ; the breadth, eighty-three. 'H.-oUiav be prcfumtd to have been monumental ;
the northern nations thought no labour too great in paying thel'e funeral honours to
their deceafed heroes. The tumulus of llaco was the fizo of a hill* : whole years,
as well as whole armies, were employed in amafling ihefe (lupcndous tcftimonics of re-
fped. Three years were confumcd in forming one, the common labour of two uterine
brethren, Norwegian chieftains f.

Travel over an ill-cultivjited flat ; crofs the North-Kfi;, at the bridge of Gannachid, a
vaft arch, cad from rock to rock, built by fiibl'cri;)iion, by one Miller, ii.-ncath is a
vail chafm, near fifty feet deep from the top of the baitlemenia ; thro\i;Ji this the
water runs with great force. A rocky channel, with lofty precipitous fides, hinged
with wood, forms mod pidurefquc views for above a quarter ol a mile above and below
the bridge.

Re-enter the fliire of Angus ; on w hofe borders lies the cafleliatcd houfe of Edzcl,
once the feat of the mofl ancient branch of the Lindfays, of the caflle of Invermark,
who acquired it about three hundred years ago by the marrijgc of an anceflor with the
heirefs of a Sterling, v;ho built the houfe, and was Lord of Glenelk, which by this
match was conveyed to ihcm. Thty were remarkable for being chi^^f over a «u.
nierousfet of fmall tenants. Not fixty years are paft fince the Laird kept up the parade
of being attended to a church by a band of aimed men, who iervcd v.ithout pay or
maintenance, fuch duties being formerly efleemed honourable. 'Hiis caille was de-
ferted by the then owner on account of a murder he had committed on his kinfnian.
Lord Spynic, in 1607. Lhis affair involved him in difficulties, and he retired on tint
account, to the houfe of Auch-mull, about two miles higher on the North Lfkas the in-
fcriptlon on the houfe fhews. A little after tho Laird ol Kdzel thought j<io[er to beilow
on one Durie, a barren knowl near the houfe, and by charter conltituted him and hit.
family hereditary beadles of the parilh, and annexed the perquifite of two baimocks fur
ringing the bell at the funeral of every farmer, and one for that of every cottager ;
which remained in the family nil very lately when it was purchafcd by the E;^rl of Pan-
mure, the prefent owner of the eflate. '1 his is mentioned to fliew the affeClation of
royalty in thefe Reguli, who made their grants and conferred places with all the dignity
of majefly.

After riding two miles on black and heathy hills, afcend one divided into two fum-
mits, the higher named the white, the lower the bl.ick Catter-thun, iron» their diflcrent
colours. Both are Caledonian polls, and the firfl if mod uncommon drength. It is of
an oval form, made of a (lupendous dike of Id (l- white 'tones, whofe convexity from
the bafe within to that without, is a hundred ar.-i twenty two feet. On the outlide, a
hollow, m.adc by the difpofition of the dones, furrounds the whole. Round the bafe is
a deep ditch, and below that a hundred yards, ne the vediges of another, that went
round the hill. The area within the dony mound is flat; the axif er length of the
oval is four hundred and thirty-fix feet ; the tranlverfe diameu r, two hundred. Near
the cad fide is the foundation of a reftangular building ; and on mod pans are the
foundations of others, fmall and circular : all which had once their fuptrdrudures, the

• Tocii Haconii faduofi f'jucrandi rlnci^ frratil, collerj fpcftiita' magniti:dinl« cxitruunt. Worm. Men.
Dan. 33. f IkiJ. 39.

3 fliclter

Tti'.NAhi i ^tgOND TOUR. IN SCOTL^VNO. 433

jflir-ltor of the pofTcfTors of the po(l. Therp is alfo a hollow, now uliiioR filled wiUi
(lonoK, tht) well of the place.

The oilier is called broan, from tl;e colour of the ramparts, which arc compofed only
of cai ih. It is of a circular fi)ini, and confilts of various concentric dikes. On one
fide of this rifcs a final! rill, which running down hill, has formed a deep gully. From
the fide of fiie fortrefs is another rampart^ which extends parallel to the rill, and then
reverts, forming an additional pod or retreat.

It is tu be obferved, that thefe poRs were chofen by the Caledonians with great judg-
ment: they fixed on the fummits of a hill commanding a great view, and perfectly de-
tached, having to the norh the Grampian hills, but on that fide feparated from them
by the lofty and rugged banks of the Welt- water, which gives them additional fecurity *,
Tofts of this kind are, as 1 am informed, very common at the foot of the Grampian hills,
intended as places of retreat for the inhabitants on the invafion of an enemy. There
is one above J'hcfdo, in the Merns ; another called Barmkine hill, eight miles well of
Aberdeen. I have feen a long chain of fimiJar polls in my own country ; they are ge-
nerally fituatedon high hills, over-looking the lower,or on lefl'er hills over-looking plains,
and feem defigned as afyla for the people of the low and defencelefs countries.

The literal tranflation of Catter-thun is Camp-town. Thefe pods are of the fame
kind with that made by Caraclacus, on tiu: borders of North ^Vales. Tunc mon-
tibiis arduis, ct Ji qua clcmcntcr iicccdi potcra)it, in modum valli /lixa prci:Jlruit \. It is
very probable that the Caledonians occupied thefe hills before the battle of Mons Gram-
plus, which might have been fought in the plains below, where there was ample room
for large armies to act in, and for the armed chariots to perform their careers. In thefe
rude faltneffes the Caledonians might leave their wives and children, as was the cuftom
of the other Britons, and then defcend into the bottomsj to repel the invaders of their
liberties. It is difficuit to fix the fpot ; but there are not fewer than three Roman
camps not remote from this range of hills, which Agricola might have occupied, and
before one of them drawn out his forces to have received the enemy. Of thefe one is
at Kiethic, near lirechin j a fecond near Caerboddo, between Forfar and Panmure ; and
a third near Kcnnymoor, called Battlcdikes J. In the neighbourhood of one of thefe
feems to have been the celebrated action ; after which he led his army to the confines
of the liorefti §, rece' 1 hollages, and ordering his fleet (then in all likelihood lying in
the Tay) to perfoni. ic voyage round Britain, retired by flow marches into winter
quarters.

Defcend, and after travelling three miles reach Brechin, a town confiding of one
large and handlome ftrect, and two fmaller, fcated on the top and fide of a hill, wpfliod
by the river South-Elk. yVt the foot of the town is a long row of houfi's, independent
of it, built on ground licld in feu from the family of North-Elk. It is a royal burgh,
and with four others feiuUi a member to parliament. In refpecl to trade, it has only a
fmall Iharein thecoarfer linen manufacture. It lies at no great didance from the har-
bour of iMontrofo ; and the tide flows within tv.'o miles of the town, to whicli a canal
might be made, v hich perhaps might create a trade, but would be of certain fervice in
conveying down the i;ai--n of the country for exportation.

^ ■Ji;

it A'
I* -a is

* For a full a:covint of ilie nature of thefe polls fee ni) Tnur in Wales.

t 'I'ac'ti Annalts, 111), xii c. 3?. % Tlitlc notices ot the camps from Maltlnr.ci.

\ TranMatofB, niiilal by the fouiul, imagine thefe to h ivc hten mountaineers ; but the woid i pro',i;ibl'/
Celtic, aiid thould be rcnJ>.Tu!, as the iigeaious Mr. iWWwx \\\\i done, the ptopl': of Filtlhire.

VOL. III.

Br'.\hin

434

PENNAin's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Brechin was a rich and ancient biftioprick, founded by David I. about the year 1 1 ?o:
at the Reformation its revenues in money and in kind amounted to feven hundred a
year ; but after that event were reduced to a hundred and fifty, chiefly by the alienation
of the lands and tythes by Alexander Campbell, the fiHl proteilant biihop, to his chief<
tain the Earl of Argyle, being recommended to the fee by his patron, probably for that
very end.

The Culdees had a convent here : their abbot Lend was witnefs to the grant maila
by King David to his new abbey of Dumfermline. In after-times they gave way to the
Mathurines, or Red-friars. The ruins of their houlc, according to Maitland, are ftill
to be feen in the College-wynde.

Here was likcwife an hofpital, called Maifon dc Dieu, founded in 1256 by William
de Brechin, for thcrcpofc of the fouls of the Kings William and Alexander; of John
Earl of Chcfter, and Huntingdon his brother ; of Henry his father ; and Juliana his
mother. Albinus, bifhop of Brechin, in the reign of Alexander III., was witnefs to the
grant. By the walls, which are yet ftanding, behind the weft end of the chief ftreet,
it appears to have been an elegant little building.

The cathedral is a Gothic pile, fupportr(i by twelve pillars ; is in length a hundred
and fixty.fix feet, in breadth fixty-one ; part is ruinous, and part ferves as the parifh
church. The weft end of one of the aifles is entire ; its door is Gothic, and the arch
confids of many mouldings ; the window of neat tracery ; the fteepie is a handfome
tower, a hundred and twenty feet high ; the four lower windows in form of long and
narrow openings : the belfry windows adorned with that fpecies of opening called the
quatrefoil ; the top battltmented, out of which rifes an hexangular fpire.

At a fmall dillance from the aifle flands one c{ thofe fingular round towers, whofe
ufe has fo long baPled the conjedurcs of antiquaries.

Thefe towers, as far as n>y reading or onqiiirics have extended, appear to have been
peculiar to North Britain and Ireland : in the laft frequent ; in the former only two at
this time exift. That at Brechin ftood originally, as all 1 have feen do, detached from
other buildings : it is at prefent joined near the bottom by a low additional aifle to the
church, which takes in about a fixth of its circumference. From this aifle there is an
entrance into it of modcr.j date, approachable by a few fteps, for the ufo of the ringers,
the parifliioners having in time pait thought proper to hang their bells in it inftead of
the fteepL'. Two handfome bells are placed there, which are got at by means of fix
ladders, placed on woode'' femicircular floors, each refting on the circular abutments
within-fide of the tower.

Til'.* height from the ground to the roof is eighty feet ; the inner diameter, within a
few feet of the bottom, is eight feet ; the thickncfs of the wall at that part feven feet two
inches ; fo that the whole diameter is fifteen feet two ; the circumference very near
forty-eight feet ; the inner diameter at the top is feven I'cet eight ; the thicknefs of the
walls four feet fix ; the circumference thirty-eight feet eight inches ; which proportion
gives the building an inexprcflible elegance : the top is roofed with an oftagonal fpire,
twenty-three feet high, which makes the whole one hundred and three. In this fpire
are four windows, placed alternate on the fides, refting on the top of the tower; near
the top of the tower are four others, facing the four cardinal points ; near the bottom
are two arches, one within another, in relief; on thetopof the outmoft is a crucilixion;
between the mouldings of the outmoft and inner are two figures, one of the Virgin Marv,
the other of St. John, the cup and iamb : on each corner of the bottom of this arch is
a figure of certain beafts ; one, for auj^ht 1 know, may be the Caledonian bear, and the
other, wiili a long fnout, the boar ; the ftone-work within the inner arch has a fmall

10 flit.

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

435

flit, or peep-hole, but without the appearance of there having been a door within any
modern period ; yet I imagine there might have been one originally, for the filling up
confifls of larger ftones than the reft of this curious rotund. The whole is built with
nioft elegant mafonry, wliich Mr. Gough obfervcd to be compofed of fixty courfes *.
I am informed by Mr. Gillies, of Brechin, that he has often feen it vibrate in a high
wind.

The learned among the antiquaries are greatly divided concerning the ufe of thefe
buildings, as well as the founders. Some think thciu Pidilh, probably becaufe there
is one at Abernethy, the ancient feat of that nation ; and others call them Danifli, be-
caufe it was the cuftom of the Danes to give an alarm f in time of danger from high
places. But the manner and fimplicity of building in early limes of both thefe nations
was fuch, as to fupcrfede that notion ; befides, there are fo many fpecimens left of their
architcfture, as tend at once to difprove any conjefture of that kind : the Hebrides,
Caithnefs, and Rofs-fliire, exhibits rcliques of their buildings totally different. They
could not be defigned as belfries, as they are placed near the fteeples of churches, infi-
nitely more commodious for that end ; nor places of alarm, as they are often eredled
iu -'ituations unfit for that purpofe. I muft therefore fall into the opinion of the late
worthy Peter CoUinfon J, that they were inclit/oria, ct arSli incluforii ergajlula^ the pri-
fons of narrow inclofures : that they were ufed for the confinement of penitents, fome
perhaps conftrained, others voluntary, Punchad o Braoin being faid to have retired to
luch a prifon, where l;e died A. D. 987. The penitents were placed in the upper ftory ;
after undergoing their term of probation, they were fuffered to defcend to the next ;
(in all 1 have feen there are inner abutments for fuch floors) after that they took a fe-
cond ftep ; till at length the time of purification being fulfilled, they were releafed and
received again into the bofom of the church.

Mr. CoUinfon fays, that they were built in the tenth or eleventh century. The reli-
gious were in thofe early times the bell architects §, and religious architedure the beft
kind. The pious builders cither improved themfelves in the art by their pilgrimages,
or were foreign monks brought over for the purpofe. Ireland being the land of fanc-
txty, patria/an^orunit the people of that country might be the original inventors of thefe
towers of mortification. They abound there, and in all probability might be brought
into Scotland by fome of thofe holy men who difperfed themfelves to all parts of Chrif-
tendom to reform mankind.

The caftle of Brechin was built on an eminence, a little fouth of the town ; but not
a relique is left. It underwent a long fioge in the year 1 303, was gallantly defended
againlt the Englifli under Edward HI., and notwithftanding all the efforts of that potent
prince, the brave governor, Sir Thomas Maule, anceftor of the prefent Earl of Panmure,
held out this fmall fortrefs for twenty days, till he was flain by a ftone caft from an en-
gine I] on Auguft -zoth, when the place was inftantly furrendered. James Earl of Pan-
mure built, in 17 1 1, an excellent houfc on this fpot ; but in 1715 engaging in the re-
bellion, had but a (hort enjoyment of it.

I muft not forget to mention the battle of Brechin, fought in confequence of the
rebellion raifed in 1452 on account of the murder of the Earl of Douglas in Stirling
caftle. The vidory fell to the royalills, under the Earl of Huntly. The malcontents
were headed by the Earl of Crawford, who retiring to his caftle of Finehaven, in the

Archscologia, it. 83.

-f Louthiana, part iii. 18.

§ Mr. Wilpole's Anted. Painting, 410. i. 114. Mr. Bentham's Elj'i 16.
Crawforfi's Peerage, 389. Camden's Remains, 301.

3 K 2

t Archxologia, i. 307.

'■[ If' '■

I'm

i-s:t

"r.

frenzy

ilH

42,6 FPNVANT's second tour IK SCOTI.ANn.

frenzy of ilifgrace dpclarcd, " he wouM willinjjly pafs kvcn yc;ir« in licll to obtain the
glniy which fell to th" fharr of th<.' rival general ',

Sept. 4. This niorninj; \v^ wci'i.' honourcil wiili the tVci'iliMn of t!;,'' town ; afrcr whic!;
wc continued our journi'y live niilcs to C'arcHonjthe iVat ol Mr. Skene, wliori.: wc palFcd
the day and evening in a irn!l n'M-ceahie ni:\nner.

Sept. f. After ;i (Iiort ride ford the So»itli-l'lk, !;,'avinj; en the rif,ht the ruiiied eallkv
of Finehavcn, once the fi.it of the I.inde.'ays, Karls of I'rawford. A Spanilh chefniit
of vafl fize was till of laie years an i rnament to the place : it wa-; ef the fprcading kind ,
the citcumfercncr near tlu; jjnmnil was Unty-two iect ci;;ht ; of tin; t(ip, thirty. live liinc
inches; of one of the largell branches, twcnty-fl.rec feet.

Above the caftle is the hill called the rallle hill I'f linchaven, a f,reat nnincnce or
ridge, with a vail and lonj; hollow in the top. Along the id;;;eh are vail niall'es of lion;,
ftrongly cemented by a feini-vitrifi.d fuhltance, or lava. '1 hefe maflcb fii'ni of a ton-
weight ; they were procured out of the hill, and |il \ced as a defence to the place, it
having been a Britilh polf. The form of the hill (whieli ends abrupt at onj end, at
the other is joined by an ifthmus to the neighbcniring laiKl\ togetlu-r \^ilh the cavity in
the middle, renders it extremely fit for the purpofe. 'I'lie ilUnuus is fecured by a deep
ditch cut tnnfverfely.

This hill is certainly the efleCt of a volcano; at the one end of the I'.oHow arc two great

holes of a funnel flrape, the craters uf the place thnni.;!! v. Inch the matter had been

• ejected. One is fixty feet in diameter, and abovr- thirty deep ; and had been much

deeper, but it was from time to lime made more Ihallow v\ the liinging in of iloncs, as

cattle were fomciimes loft in it.

On both fides of the hill are found in digging great quantities cf burnt earth, that
fcrve all the purpofes uf tarras, or the lamous /ir//i;-.; ptilc.liH:!!! cr /'nzz^/imj, Co in-qnent
in countries that abound with volcanoes, and fo ulelul lor all works that arc to lie un.
ihr water.

On defcending from this hilt find ourfelves at Abcrlcnini. In the church-yard, and
on the road fide are to be feen fome of the curious cnrvcd ftoncf, fuppofcd to have been
ercded in memory of vidorics over Danes, and other great events that happened in
thofc parts. Thefe, like the round towers, are local moiuinient.s ; but (Hll more con-
fmed, being, as far as I can learn, unknown in Ireland ; and indeed limited to the
eaftern llde of North Britain, fori hear of jione beyond the tirth of Murray or that of
Forth. The greateft is that near Forres, taken notice of in the Tour of 1769 ; and is
alfo the farthed north of any. Mr. Oordon defcribis another in the county of Mar,
near the hill of Benachie ; the next are thefe under confideration. The hrlt detcriheil
hy thai ingenious writer t, is that figure which llands in the church-yard. On one fitle
is the form of a crofs, as is common to molt, and proves them at Icalt to have been the
work of a Chri'lian people.

The next which i faw is on the road, with both fides full of i'culptuie. On one a
neat crofs included in a circle ; and b' neath two exceedingly rude figures of angels,
which fome have miitaken for characters. On tlie other li Je are the figures of ctrtain
inftrumcnis, to me quite unintelligible; beneath are two men foinding a trninpet,
four horfemen, a footman, and feveral animals, leeminglv v.ild horfer. purfucd by dogs ;
under them is a centaur, and bclmid them a man holding iome unknown animal |.
This is the ftone mentioned by Boethius to have been put up in memory of a def at of
a party of Danes, belonging to the army of Oamus, on this ipot. " (Juo loco ingcns

• Giith:i'c, Iv. !y

■\ Iiiii. Scpteutr. 1;; I.

I Tab. xviii. fig. I.

rr.NNANT*!? SECOND TOUR !N 8C0Tl,ANI>.

437

Ihpls eft ercOii!!, Iluic animantium cfligics, nonnullis cum charaftcribua arlificiof^, ut
ruin fiebat,qun; rem };cftam poflcritati annunciarcnt, (unt infculptiu*."

On a mriiuliis on thi; road liiic is a third, with various fculpturcs pad my comprehcn-
fion. Tills is oiij^ravt'u by Mr. Gordon, tab. iv., and mentioned by iiim p. 158.

Near this is a fourth pillar quite pl:>in, wliicli was probably crcdled over the gravft
of lomc pt'ri'on wlio was dcomed perhaps unworthy the troul)I(' of fculpture. This is
as artlefs as any of tlic old Britiih muimments, which I apprehend thof'" carved ftones
fucoeedc.d. 'lliefe wav, from their exceflive rudonefs, the firfl clTorts of the; fciilpfor,
imitative of the animal creation ; and his fuccef-i is i'uch as might be expected : b\it in
the orn;inunts about the crolFes, and the running patterns along the fides of fome, is a
fancy and elegance that docs credit to the artids of thofc early days. IJocthius is wil-
lii)g I hat ihefe iiigr.ivcn pillars (hould be I'uppofed to have been copied fnHn the Egyp-
!i;ui;;, a'ul th;it the figures wore hijroglyphie, as exprefliv^of meaning as thofe found on
thecitO's of mumni'is, or the fculptuiod obLlUks of Kgypt [. Tlie hiflorian's vanity in
Juppifing his countrymen to have been derived from that ancient nation, is dcllitute of
all authority ; but his conjedure that the figures we fo frequently fee on the columns of
this country had their frguification, and were the records of an urdettinnl age, is fo rea-
ff nable as to be readi'y ..dmitted. It was a method equally common to the mofl civi-
lized and to the moll barbarous nations ; connnon to the inhabitants of the banks of
the Nile, and the natives of Mexico \. In the northern hemifphere, monuments of this
nature I'eeu. confined to the trad above mentioned : they cannot be compared, as the
learned bi (hop NichoU'Ki does, to the Runic Hones in Denmark and Sweden ; for they
will be found always attended v;ith Rtmic inl'criptions, by any one who will give himfclf
the trouble of conlulting the antiquities of thofe nations 5-

I mud take notice of a newdiicovered ftonc of this clafs, found in the ruins of a
cha'pel in the den of Auldbar, near Carellon, by Mr. Skene, who was fo obliging as to
favour me with the drawing of it. On one fide was a crol's ; in the upper compartment
of the other lidc were two figures of men, in a fort of cloak, fitting on a chair, perhaps
religious perions ; beneath them is another, tearing afunder the jaws of a certain heal!: ;
Hear him a fpear ar.d a harp ; below is a perfon on hori'eback, a bead like the mufimon,
which is fuppoled to have once inhabited Scotland ; nnd lalUy, a pair of animals like
bullocks, or the hornlefs cattle of the country, going fide by fide. This done was about
feven feet long, and had been tixed in a p'xleltal found with it.

Proceed towards I'orfar. About a mile on this fide of the town is a moor, noted
for a battle between the Pids and the Scots, in the year 831. The Scots, undor Alpin,
had rather the advantage ; by them therefore might the great cairn near ,ie fpot be
compofed which to this day is called Pids Cairiiley. The bafe was once furroundeJ
with a coronet of gre;, upright columns ; but only one remains, which is eleven feet
high, feven broad, and eiglitt-en feet in glrih.

Fcrfar, the capital of the county, contains about two thoiifand fouls ; but, fince the
groat a:ra of the proiperity of North Britain, has increafed above half. The manu-
fi'dures of linens in this neighbourhood, from four-pcm ■• to feven pence a yard, are
very confiderable, and bring, as is faid, near twenty thoulaiid a year.

'i"hc cadlc flood on a Imall hill near the town, but at prefent not a fragment is
left.

• Boethius, lib. xi. p. 24^

-\. Coiiquell of Mixico. fol. 73. Purchas's Pilgrims, iii. 1068
^ W'oiiuii Mon. Danici 474. 4^5.

+ T jelfjiua, lib. ii. p. 20.

The

■i

'9m

43'

rCNNANT'a SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

The lake lits, or rather did lie, at a fiiuH didancc from the caftlc, and, accordinj*
to truklitifm, once lunoundcd the town j there being in leviral parts, even to this day,
iu;uk'. of the defcrtod channel : of late years it has been very confidenibly reduced by
driiuin^;, to which the vail quantity of fine marie at the bottom was the temptation.
l his fine manure is found there in (I rata from three to ten feet thick, and very often
ii met wii'.i beneath tlie peat in the moors. The land improved with it yields four
crops lucccflivcly, after which it is laid down with barley and clover. The county of
Angus is fuppofed to be benefited, within the fix lad years, by this pradice, by an
advance of four thoufand a year in the rents. Much of this is owing to an old fea-
inan of this country, Mr. Strachan of Balgayloch, who invented the method of drag-
eii;^ up the marie from the buttom of the waters, in the fame manner as the ballaii is
tor (hips.

About a mile north of Forfar, lay the cell or priory of Reflenot, dependent on the
tbbi.y of Jedburgh. Tiiis houfe was placed in a lake, and accelhble only by a draw-
bridge ; hero, therefore, the monks of Jedburgh depofitcd their papers and all their
valuable effects •.

Five miles further is the caftic of G lames, a place much celebrated in our hiftory ;
fnft for the murder of Malcolm the Second, who fell hero by the hands of aflaflins,
in a pnrtage ftill (hewn to (Irangers. It might at the time be part of the podeirions of
the family of the famous Macbeth, who tells us, through the mouth of Shakefpear,

By Sincl'* dcatli I know I »m Thane <if Glamcs.

This Sinel being, as Boethius informs us, father to that tyrant. Probably after his
death it became forfeited, and added to the property of the crown ; for, on the ac-
cefTion of Robert the lid., it was bellowed (then a royal palace) on his favourite Sir John
Lyon, prcpUr laudabik ct Jidck fervitium. The ancient buildings were of great extent*
as appears by a drawing from an old print, which the Earl of Strathmore did me the
honour to prefent to me. The whole confided of two long courts divided by builJ-
ing ; in each was a fquare tower and gateway beneath, and in the third another tower,
which conditutes the prefent houfe, the red being totally dcdroyed. This has received
many alterations, by the additions of little round turrets, with grotefque roofs ; and by
a great round tower in one angle, which was built in 1686, by the redorer of the
cadle Patrick Lord Glames, in order to contain the curious dair-cafe, which is fpiral ;
one end of the dcps reding on a light hollow pillar, continued to the upper dory.
Befides the fpot of alTaflination, is fliewn the feat of poetry and mufic, an ancient fef-
tivity, where the bards took their place, and fung the hcroifm of their patron and hia
anccflors. In early times a chieftain was followed to court by his poets, and his abled
muficians : hence it was, that in the hall of a Celtic prince, a hundred bards have druck
up at once in chorus f. And even about a century ago every chieftain kept two bards,
each of whom had his difciples, infeparable attendants.

The mod fpacious rooms are, as ufual in old cadles, placed in the upper dories,
and furnjfliod with all the tawdry and clumfy magnificence of the middle of the lad
century. The habitable part is below dairs. In one of the apartments is a good por-
trait of the fird Duke of Ormond, in armour, by Sir Peter Lely ; the greated and mod
virtuous character of his age.

His daughter, Countefsof Chefterfield, a celebrated beauty, and the greated coquet
of the gay court of Charles II. beloved by the Duke of York, and not Irfs by George

* Keith, 140.

t DoAor Macpherfon, 119.

Hamilton.

FEVNANT*» SECOND TOUR IM 8C0TLAKD*

439

Hamilton. She was neglc(f\od at firfl by her hiirt)and, who, rouzcd by the attention of
others to l»is fair fpoufe, becamo too late enamoured with her charms. At Icn^uh a
mutual joalouCy feizcd the lady and her lover Ilamihoii ; lie, in the frenzy of re-
venge, pL-rl'uadcs the Earl to carry her from the (cene of gallantry, to pafs her CJirift-
mas at his feat in Derby (liire •. She difcovers the treachery of her lover, but contrives
to inveigle him to vifit her in her retreat, through all the real inconveniences of bad
roads, dreadful weather, and dark nights, with tht? additional terrors of imaginary
precipices and bogs, whirh fljc had painted in her billet, to add to the mifery of his
journey. A bad cottage is provided for ins concealment \ a f:\.Ue confidante brings
Jiim at midnight into a cold pafliige, under promKb of an interview ; he remains there
till day approaches ; the night began with rain and ended with froft ; he waa cafed
vith ice, perhaps complaining,

Me tuo lonp^aj ntreiinte nofles,
Lydia, Juimid.

He quits his ftation in defpair, ictires to his cabin, is terrified with the news of Lord
Chellirlield being at home, is alarmed with th found of hounds, and the Earl enjoy-
ing the pliaiurcs of thechace; pcfps out, and find tlic country beautiful, and neither
hog nor precipice; in a word, returns to LoiiJon the next night, tlie ridicule of the
gay monarch and his merry court ].

I mud not forget another portrait, that more in • eduitoly relates to the houfe of
Patrick Lord Glames ; who, I am informed, wro^ \.u own memoirs, and relates that
he married the daughter of the Earl of Middleton, Lord Commiflioner in the time of
Charles IL ; and fuch was the fimplicity c \\nners at that !■ iie, he brought his lady
home mounted behind him, without any < ihei train than a man on foot by the fide of
his horfe.

In the church-yard of Glames is a ftone fimilar to thofe at Aberlemni. This is fup-
pofed to have been erefted in memory of the aifailination of King Malcolm, and is called
his gravc-Uone. On one front is a crol's, on the upper part is lome wild bead, and op-
pofite to it a centaur; beneath, in one compartment, is the head of a wolf, thele ani-
mals denoting the barbarity of the confpirators ; in another compartment are two per-
fons fliaking hands, in their other hand is a battle-ax : perhaps thefe two are repre-
fcnted in the act of confederacy. On the oppofite front of the flone are reprefented
an eel and another fifli. This alludes to the fate of the murderers, who, as foon as
tliey had committed the horrid ad, fled. The roads were at that time covered with
fnow ; they loft the path, and went on to the lake of Forfar, which happened at the
time to be frozen over, bu, lot fuflicicntly ftrong to bear their weight, the ice broke,
and they all periflied mifer.i i?; This fact is confirmed by the weapons lately found
in ilraining the lake, particularly a battlc-ax, of a form like thofe reprefented in the
fculpture. Several brafs pots and pans were found there at the fame time, perhaps
pan of the plunder th'. aflaflins carried oft with them.

Near Glames are two other ilones, one with the crofs on one front, an angel on one
tule, and two men with the heads of hogs on the other ; probably fatirically alluding
to ilie name of Sueno, or the (wine, a Danifh monarch. Beneath are four animals re-
femhling lions; on the oppofite front is a fingle eel. This is in the park of Glames J.

,1k

i.i'.itr is at the village of Colfens, a mile weft of the caftle, and is called St.
Oi land's Hone. The crofs takes up one front ; on the upper part of the other are

* Brcidhy-hall, near Burton-ufon-Trtnt.

\ V'lilv Uurdua's lutt. 163.

•f Memoires du Grammout.

•I

*H )

t'-'u

certaia

^<^\

^==- . ii

440

PBKNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

certain unknown inflruments ; beneath are horfemen and dogs; under them a fcul{>«
ture, whicii in my drawing reprefents a boat ; beneath that a cow, and anoth'ir
animal *.

I inifled feeing Denoon caftle, which I am informed lies two miles to the fouth-weft
of Glanies. According to Mr. Gordon, it is fcated on an eminence, environed with
llccp rocks, and almoll inaccefTiblc. On the north are two or three rows of tcrrafll-s.
It is of a fcmicircular form, and cncompaffcd with a ftupcndous wall of floue and earth,
twcnty-feven feet high, and thirty thick. The circuit three hundred and thirty-five
yards. The entrances arc on the fouth-eaft, and north-welt. Within the area are
\ elligcs of buildings, and there is a tradition that there was a fpriiig in the middle.
'J'his appears to me to be the fame kind of faftnofs as that of Calter-thun.

Sept. 6. Proceed tc Belmont, the feat of the honourable Smart Mackenzie, Lord
Privy Seal i>f Scotland, where I found the molt obliging reception. It is featcd hi the
parifii of Aki^lf, where I again enter the county of Perth.

The gro'.:;id ot this parilh is very fertile, and much improved of late by the manure
of fheil-rnu"'. It yielils barley, oats, fome wheat, and a little rye; and, in general,
more grain than I'le iii!iabitants, who amount to about twelve hundred, can confutne.
Much ilax is railed, many potatoes planted, and of late artificial graflls begin to find
a place here. Improvements in agriculture, ani.1 in making good roads, go on moli
profperoully und^i* the aufpiccs of Lord Privy Seal. The only manufacture in the pa-
lilh is that of coarfe brown linens, which employs about a hundred weavers. But fince a
great proprietor has thought proper to debar the inhabitants from the ufcofalarge
peat niols, it is feared that the manufacturers mud remove (as many have already done)
i'or want of that cflential article, fuel.

Belmont Hands entirely on clallical ground ; for on its environs lay the laft fcene of
the tragedy of Macbeth. In one place is (hewn his tumulus, called Belly Duff, or, I
fliould rather call it, the memonal of his fall ; for to tyrants no fuch reiped was paiJ,
and their remains were treated with the utmofl indignity among the northern nations.
Thus Amlethus, after dellroying the cruel Fcngo, denies every honour to his body [■.
And Starcather beautifully delcribes the obfequies of the wicked :

Cxforum corpora cuirii
Excipjanl fatrmli. proniptiiUnie i-iulnveia liclor
KfTiviit, officiii men' i) caritma liijjrinii'!,
lit biillfs iiuiigiia trjii. Ko'i t,i!M ris il!i«
• imipa loj^ufve pfim tiinmli coirijx'tK't li.^norem ;
Pirtida fpargaiitiir canipis, aviiiir(|ii-- lerciida
Moinbus, iii*cllo niaculcnt ivis ui^dn^iic tubo *.

By the final fy liable, I fliould choofc to ilyle it a monument to perpetuate the me-
mory of the gallant Macduff. It is a vorduut mount, furrounded by two tcrraffes,
with a cope at top, now fliadcd by broad-leaved laburnums, of great antiquity. The
, battte, which began beneath the callle of Dunfinane, might have fpread as far as this
place. Here the great ftand might have been made; here Macduff might have fum-
moncd the ufurper to yield ; and here I imagine him vittering his laft defiance,

* Ibid. I had not an opportunity ot feeing either of tlufc. Mr. Skene, of CarelloR( favoured mc with
a drawing of the lait. {■ taxoCiram lib. iv p. 55.

I Idem, lib. vi, p. 119. Aviurr.ipic tcrrenda

Morfibii».
Shakefptarc puti in idea fimilar to thi« iri the mouth of ^Tacbcth :

our inuiiutiKiiti
Shall be, the mawt of kitei.

I will

PEKNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND. 441

I will not yield
To kifs tlie ground before yciiiij;- Mnlcolm'u feet ;
/' ml to be baited with the rabble's eiirff.
Thoiish lilriiam wood he come to Dunritiane,
And ihoii oj>po!i'd, be of no woman born.
Yet I will try the lalb. Bcfure my body
I throw my warlike fliicld. Lay on, Maedufl !
And damn'd be he that full erica, " Hold ! cnougli ! * "

III a field on the other fide of the houfc is another monument to a hero of that day,
to the njcmory of tlie brave young Seward, who fell, flain on the fpot by Macbeth. A
ftupendoiis ftone marks the place, twelve feet high above ground, and eighteen feet and
a half in girth in the thickeft place. The quantity beiow the furface of the earth only
two feet eight inches ; the weight, on accurate computation, amounts to twenty tons ;
yet, I have been allured, that no (lone of this fpecies is to be found within twenty miles.
But the pains that were beftowed on thefe grateful remembrances of departed merit,
may be learned from the filial piety of Haralti, the fon of Gormon, who employed his
whole army, and a vaft number of oxen, to draw a Hone of prodigious fize from the
fhore of Jutland, to honour the grave of his mother f.

Near the great flone is a fmall tumulus, called DufF's-know; where fome other
commander is fuppofed to have fallen. But Meigle is rich in antiquities, the church-
yard is replete with thers of a more ornamented kind, abounding with hier'^G;Iyphic
columns. Mr. Gordon has engraved all I faw, one excepted ; however I venture to
caufe them to be engraved again from the drawings of my fervant ; for, notwithftand-
ing 1 allow Mr. Gordon to poflefs great merit as a writer, yet his (ketches are lefs ac-
curate than I couid wiih.

The mod curious is that whereon is feen, in the upper part of one front,
dogs and horfemen, and below reprefented four wild hearts, refembiing lions, de-
vouring a human figure. The country people call all of them Queen Vanora's grave-
(lones, and relate that (he was the wife of King Arthur ; I fuppofe the fame lady that
we Wel(h call Guinever, and Guenhumara ; to whofe chaftity neither hiftorians nor
bards \ do much credit. The traditions of thefe parts are not more favourable to her
memory. The pcafants aflcrt, that, after the defeat of her lover, (he was imprifoned in
a fort on the hill of Barra, oppofite to this place, and that there (he died, and was in-
terred in the parifh of Mciglc. Others again fay, that (he was torn to pieces by wild
hearts, to which this fculpture alludes ; if, as Mr. Gordon jullly obferves, the carvings
niie;ht not fometimes prove the foundation of the tale.

It is reported that her grave was furrounded by three ftones, in form of a triangle,
mortifcd into one another. Some of them have holes and grooves for tliat purpofe,
but are now disjointed, and removed to different places.

Another ftone, is very curitnis: on it is engraved a chariot, with the driver
and t\x o pcrfons in it ; behind is a monfter, refembiing a hippopotamus, devouring ii
prortrated human figure. On another ftone is the rcprefentation of an elephant, or at
leaft an animal with a long probofcis. Whence could the artilts of a barbarous age
acquire their itieas of centaurs, or of animals proper to the torrid zone ?

Sept. 8. Leave Belmont. Pafs beneath the famous hill of Dunfinane, on the fouth
fide of Sti itlunorc, on whofe fummit ftood the cartle, the rcfidencc of Macbeth, full in

* TI'C fiMiiulation of all this tnle is overthrown latrly by the learned and accurate author of the Annals
of J-cotland ; l.iit out of rifi;td\ to the nt'inberUfH fiiblime pafTnpie;; it has furniflu'd the poet with, 1 fuffcr
it 10 rciiiii its (ilace here. f Wormii Mon. Dr.n. 39.

I leflcry III Monmouth, p. 351. Percy's Rtliqucs, iii. 4.

vol.. 111. 3 L view

'^i

no*

44»

NNNANT'3 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

view of Rirnam wood, on the oppofite fide of the plain. No place could be better
aiiapteJ for tht.- feat of a jealous tyrant : the fides are flccp, and of the moft difficult
afcent, the fununit cotiimanding a view to a great didance in front and rear. At pre*-
fent thsre are not any remains of this celebrated fortrels : its place is now a verdant
aroa, ot an oval f )nn, fifty-four vanls by thirty, and furroundod by two deep ditches.
On the north is a hollow road, cur thrciui;h th.' rock, leading up to the entry, which-
lies on the north-ealt, facing a deep narrow chafm, between tin's and the next hill.
The hiil has been dug into, but nothing was difcovcred, excepting fonie very black
corn, wl)ich probably had undtTf:one the operation i.f Graddan, or burning. This
place was fortifieil with great labour, for Macbeth depi-ndeil on its Urength and natural
fteepnels as a fecure rt treat againll every enemy. Ue fumnioncd the Thanes from all
parts of tho kingdom to ailid in the work. All came excepting Macduff, which fo en«
rag< d the ryrant, that he threatened to put the yoke that v/as on the oxen then labour-
ing up the iteep lide of the hill, oji the neck of the dilobedient Thane *.

A little to the eaftward is a hill called the King's-fcat, where tradition fays, Macbeth
fat as on a watch-tower, for it commands a more comprehenfive view than Dunfi-
nane. Here his fcout might be placed, who brought him the fatal news of the niu-xh.
of Birnatn wsx>d :

As I '11(1 (land my watch iipciii the hill,

I louk'd towatii Biriiairi, aiij anon, metlioiight

The wooJ began to move !

On the plain beneath thofc hills are fcveral other vnonuments of antiquity, fuch ?s a
great ftone Iving on th« ground, ten feet long, called the I,ong Man's Grave. Here ars
«iro feyeral tumuli compoled of earth and Hones of a pyramidical form, called here
Lawes. One of a confiderable fize, near a gentleman's feat, called Law-town, is fup-
pofed to have been that from which Macbeth adminillered juflice to his people. No
prince ruled with ni'-rc equity than he did in the beginning of his reign. He was the
firft of the Scottilh monarchs that formed a code of laws, which weie duly obferved
during his government, but afterwards were neglected or forgotten, as Buchanan fays,
rcuch to the lofs of the kingdom in general.

(\ntinue our ride weftward. Pafs through Perth. Reach Dupplin, where wc
continue till next morning.

iupt. 9 Carols the rivtr Earn, r.t F.nrn-bridgc, near the houfe of Moncrief ; keep on
the iViuth fide of Strathearn, and breakfall in its eadern extremity, at the village of

Aberneihy, i'arrd near the junction of the larn and the Tay, and once the capital
of the Pic'liiii ki.igdoni. The (-rigin of theft, people has been givatly litigated ; fome
fuppoie tliem to iiave been foreigners imported from 8cai;dinavia f, or out of .Sa.\uny ;
but apparently wiib.uut any foundation. 'Ihert- is no n ..Ion to iuu'ginc them to have had
anv other or';^i!i tliau from th.- Caledonians, the ancient inhabitants of the country.
They were the uncon-'iered part, who, on the death of Severus, recovered from !iis
fonu 'he conqucfls ol ihe fa'i.cr, who haralTed the Romans anil foiuh:rn Rritons with
frequent excunion.-, and wlio, with tluir kindred Scot^^, on the retreat of the Romans-,
forced thjir cnnlinciiicnt, now call -d Graham'^-dike, and with irrcfiflildf fury extended
th-'ir dominions as far as the banks of the Huudjer.

'I'wo kingt.omK h.u! b.-n i ndcd : the one (lyli'd that of the Pil'~, th- other iliat
of the Scots. K.ich of them were Utw names : the iint that mentions the Picts is

* Euclia'inn, 1'') >";' c it.

I '^tillii)j.';ni.tt, fjnotiii ly Mr. HtUiilicrfon, 7:}.

Kuiuenius

FENMANt's SBCOND tour in SCOTLAND.

443

Eumeniusthepanegyrlft, who wrote in 309, and the firfl: whofpcaks of the Scots is
Ammianus Marcellinus,

The words are of Celtic origin : Pift is derived from Pifteich *, or Piftich, a plun-
derer or thief: it was beftowed on them by their foutherri neighbours, who probably
experienced the cruchy of their exciirfions. The Caledonian offspring accepted the
title, as it convcyi-d, iu thoLr iilei, an addition of honour inllead of infamy; for the
northern nations, h-oni the carliefl antiquiiy, held rol)bery to have be< » honourable;
nor does that opinion icem to be worn out to this day with fome of the northern
princes.

The kingdom of thi; Picts was on the eallern parts of Nortli Britain : that of the Scots
on the \ve!teri\. The lall dcrivc'd their name from Scottan, a fmall flock f, or from
Scuite, wanderer? [;. The iiril: pcrliaps from their making inroads in fmall parties, the
lad from their ackrowlcdged way of life, runninj^ about feeking whom they might de-
vour. As foon as tliefe two nations had-cdablillied a power, wars, attended with
various fuccel's, aro;'"; b;'t'.veen thf'!n : at length the Scots proved vidlorious; they
totally fubdued their Fictiih neighbours, cut rtl" multitudes, forced numbers to tiy
abroad for fccurity, overturned their kingdom, incorporated the lew which were left,
and made their very name to ccale.

That the Romans might alio give the name of Pitli to the Britifii nation? from the
ciftom of painting their bodies with woad and other dyes is incontedible, notwithlland-
ing it is denied by many of the Scoltilh authors. Th'^y argue from the inconfiilency
of the Roman writers, fome of whom alfert that the Britons went naked, others that
they were cloathed in fkins, others with garments called Brachtc. That any were fo
wretched as to be dcditute of cloathing in this fevere climate is very improbable : no
northern nations yet difcovcred, were ever found in fucha Hate of nature. But, fay the
former, as the Britons were cloathed, why fhould they give themfelves the trouble of
adorning their bodies with paintings, fmce they could neither Ihew them through vanity
to their friends, or as objecls of terror to their enemies ? It is difficult to trace the caufe of
cuftoms in fuch didant periods ; but we know at prefent, from recent authority, that there
are two nations, who to this day retain thecudom of painting their bodies, and fome of
thiMn the mod concealed parts, which they are as averfe to expofmg as any European.
Both of thcfe people are cloathed : thofe of Otaheitt' have one kind of drefs ; the new
Zealanders another. In didant ages they may leave off the cudom of tattowing
their Ikins ; and the authority of our modern voyages become a<^ difputable as tliofe of
Cajfar, Diem Cafiius, or Ilerodian, are with fome later writers. But that the painted
hodic;; of oiu" ancellors migiit be capable of driking terror int(^ their enemic s is very cer-
tain ; for in an aclion tliey freed § themfelves from the incuir.branccs of the loofer
garments, and part at load of their bodies painted with wild fancy, was left expofod lu
the vicv/ o\ the adoniflicd foe.

1 cotdd not hear that there were the lead remains of antiquity at Abernethy that
could bi.' attribt'.ted to its ancient polVoiVors. The Picts have left memorials of their
feat iU Inch-tulh(.l, and marks of their retreats in time (^f danger on the fuinmlr of
many a hill. ALovl' tlic houfe of Moncrief, on Mordun hill, is a fallncls, formed by a
bulwark of (tones, furruunding about two acres of ground, which might have been the
citadel of Abernethy, tiie refuge of its inhabitants in time of war, at lead of its women,
its children ||, and its cattle, while the warriors kept the field to repel the enemy.

* I frMiry's llilloty of lUitaln, i. 19;.
t lliiiiyN Hilldi y of Uiitiiin, i. li],.
;| Coii/n^e.'. ac lilxroa ill ha tuta transfcrrctit.

3 L

f Doftor Mai-phcrfon, 108.
f) Mr James M.n.'plitrfi)n, 21 J,
Tacitus Vil. Aj^viLol.r, c. 2 ;.

■

Here

444

PKKNANT S SECONn TOl! .'. IN ."CCTLAND.

Here is indeed a round tower like tiiat of Brei Iiin ; but I am more willinji^ to give
tlieie edifices to the Irilh than the Pids. The Scots have fullicient rtmains of antiquity
to forgive this concenion ; the tower at Aberncthy is itncovercd ; tl)c liei|,^ht within is
fevcnty-two feet; the inner diameter eiglit feet two; tli« ihicknt-fs of llie wall at lop
two feet feven ; at bottom three feet four ; the circumference near the ground forty-
feven. Within is, at prefent, a bell, platform^, and ladders, like that iu the capital of
Angus.

St. Bri>;id, a virgin of Cnilhpefs, here firfl dedicated hcvfelf to I'ac fervices of heaven,
not wiih vows frail as human nature, but with a refolute pciieverance iu the dutits of
the monadic life: and with her nine others adopted the fame courfe *. At this place
file died in 513, and left fuch a reputation for piety, " that the mod: extravagant ho-
Hours were paid to her memory. The Hebrides paid her i\m\v^ honours: to her the
preated number of their churches were dedicated : from her tlioy had oraculiT re-
iponfes ; Ly the divinity of St. Brii'jd, was one of thwr mod fokmn oaths : to her they
devoted the fird day of February, and in the cveiiinjx of that fedival performed many
llrange coreinonicscf a Druidical and moll f'uperditious kind !•"

Here were pvefervcd her reliqucs ;. here, in honour of her, was founded- a collegiate
church ; and this place was a biilioprick, the metropolitan of all Scotland, til! it was in
840 tramlated to St. Andrew's by Kenneth 111., after his victory over tiie Picls +. Be-
fore Vvhich it was a populous city, given by Ncclanus, king of the Picts,to God and St.
Briq;id, till the day of judgment §.

Afcend the Ochil hills, and iu LTs than two miles crofs a rivii'cf , and enter into the
fiiire of Fife ; the neareit or moll foutherly part of the Roman Caledonia, the Otholini;'.
and the Rofs of the Picts jj. The Forth-ever or Over of ihe Saxons, and the Fife of
the prefent time ; the lad Irom Fifus DuH'us, a warrior of tli! country.

Near the jundion of Fife and Strathern, not far iVom the ipoi I palled, is IVIugdrum
crofs, an upright pillar, with fculptures ou each fide, much defaced j but dill may be
traced figures of horfemen, and beneath them certain animals. Near this place (lood
the crofs of the famous MacduQ", Thane of Fife, of which noihiag but the pedelhU
has been left for above a century palt. On it were infcribcd certain i\Iac:.ronic verfes,
a drange jargon, prelrved both by Sibbald ^ and Gordon • *. Mr. Clunningham, who
wroe an elfay on the crofs, trandates the Unes into a grant of Malcolm Canmore, to
the Larl of Fife, offeveral emoluments and privileges; among others, he allows it to be
a fanftuary to any of Macduff's kindred, within the ninth degree, who fhall be acquitted
of any man-flaughter, on flying to this crofs, and paying nine cows and a heifer 1 f.

Defcend the Ochil hills, and arrive in a pretty valley, called the ftrath of Eden,
bounded on the fouth by the Lomond hills, and watered by the river Fdcn. Go
through a fmail town, and after croflmg the vale, reach

Falkland; another fmall town, mnJe a royal burgh by James II. in '45S. Here
ftood one of the feats Jof the Macduil's, Earls of Fife. On the attainder of Murdo
Stuart, fev'^nteenth Ear!, it became forfeited to the crown in 1424. James V. who
grow very fond oi the pk;ce, enlarged and improved it. The remains evince its former
ma,»5nificcnce and elegance, nid the fme tade of llie princely archited. The gateway is
placed between two fine rcund towers ; on the right hand joins the chapel, wliofe roof is
of wood, handfomely gilt and painted, but in a invii ruinous condition. Btrcath are

• *i;otfwood'i Tlift. Ch Scotlaiitl, il, I?. Boethiiis, lib. x. p. 181.

f I-ortor Macplitrfon, 239. | Keith's liilhujis 2. § Camden, 1238. E<Jlt, 1722.

y BurthitM, lit) iv. p. 61. SibbalJ, Fife, i. ^ SibbalJ, Fiff, (,»:, 93.

•* Goiduii, 16}. If Canulcn, I2j0.

feveral

PENKANT*S SECOND TOtTR IN SCOTLANUr

445

fevcral apartments. The front next to the court was beautifully adorned with ftatucs,
heads in bas-relief, and elegant columns, not reducible to any order, but of fine pro-
portion, with capitals approaching the Ionic fcrol. Beneath forue of thefe pillars was
Hifrribed. 1. R. M. G. 1537, or Jacobus Rex. Maria de Guife.

This place was alfo a favourite rcfidcnce of James VI. on account of the fine park,
and plenty of deer. The eail fide was accidentally burnt in the time of Charles 11. anU
the park ruined during Cninnvell's ufurpation, when the fine oaks were cut down ia
order to build the fort at Perth.

In the old cadlc w;is cruelly (larved, by the vi'Iany of his uncle the Duke of Albany,
David Duke of Rothefay, fon to Robert HI. For a time his fife was prolonged by fho
charity of two women ; the one fupplying him with oaten cakes, conveyed to him
through the prifon grates : the other, a wet nui 'e, with milk, conveyed by means of a
pipe. Both were deteftcd, and both mod barbaroufly put to death *". The death cil
this Prince occafioncd a parliamentary enquiry. The murderers were acquitted ; and,
pardoned : certainly the innocent would never have required fuch fecurity f.

Near the prefcnt palace are feveral houfcs, marks of the munificence of Jmies VI.
who built and bellowed them on hb attendants, who acknowledge his bounty by g! ate-
ful infcriptions on the walls, moftly in this flyle:

" Al praifc to God and thankis to the mod excellent monarchc of Great Britane of
whofe princclie liberalitie this is my portioune. Nicol Moncrief. 1610." ^

Continue our journey along the plain, which is partly arable, partly a heath of un-
couunon flntnefs, darkened with prodigious plantations of Scotch pines. In ihe
miJil is Melvil, the feat of the Karl of I.even and Melvil ; a fine houfe, with nine win-
dows in front, dciigncd by the famous Sir William Bruce, and executed by Mr. James
Smith, and built in 1692.

The nobi. owner is defccnded, by the female line, from Alexander Lefly, firft of the
title ; a gallant and mo!l trultrtl oflicer, under the great Gultavus Adolphus. To him
he gave the de once of Straliund, when beficged by the Imperiaiills, whofe commander,
the impious or the frantic WaKlein, fwore he would take the place though it hung in
the air from heaven by a ch.ii!! of adamant J : but Lefly difapointed his rodomontade.
On his return to Scotland he headed the covenanting army, during part of the civil
wars, and contributed greatly to the viftory of Marfton-moor, in 1 644. After the death
of Charles I. he favoured the loyal party, was imprifoned, and fuffcred fequedration ;
fo little did the parliament refpect his former fervices. A neat miniaMn'e of him is pre-
fervcd here, and a fine medal given himby Guftavus, for his brave defence of Stralfund.

Gufbvi'.s himfelf, at full length, in a fliort buff coat. This portrait is an original,
brought (Hitcf Geriiuiny by the General.

George, li/arl of A'Klvil, Lord '• ''gh Commiflioner in 1690, a poll he received as a
reward for his fuftciings in J 683. ^hen he had the honour of being accufed of corre-
Ipouding with th(! virtuous Lord Rufl'el ; was obliged to fly into Holland, and, on re-
tufing to appear en being cited, fuft'ered, till the revolution, the forfeiture of his eftate.

Da\ id, Karl ot Leven, commander of the forces in North-Britain, from 1 706 to
171c, a f'..- half-length, in armour, looking over his ihoulder. 13y Sir John dc
l\iedina.

In the garden is a fquar. lower, one of the fumrner retreats of cardinal Beaton , j;i ■
near it is Cardan's well, named from the celeb •■.-' phyfician, who in 1552, wat !. xC

1/1.) >i

■|&

i -'.:

• Vule Sir David Dalrymple's remarks on Hid. Scotland, 778
■f Buchanan, lib. x. c, 10. X Hurl's kiUol Guftav

99.

for

446 PENMAN r*3 SECOND TOOR IN SCOTLAND.

forlrom Milan, to Hamilton, a' ,bbi(hop of St. Andrew's.'who was here illofan afthma.
Cardan eftofted his cure but to jvrelerve him for a moft ignominious fate, which the phy-
lician, by caftinr; the nativity ol his patient, foretold. The prelate'was afterwards hang,
cd on a live tree at Stirling, and the following cruel farcafm coinpufed on ilic occafion :

Vive dill, fclix aibor, fempcrqiie vircto
FronHlliDB, lit nobiu ta)ia pumu rvias,

Soptomber 10. I. cave Mel -'l. The country is well inipr acJ, ■riiilolbd, and f.n.'ed
with quickf.t hedges. Pafs b) Dairfie church, and talicllate.l huuic. The chi.'n 1 is
ancionr, but of elegant ,u .^hited-.ire ; the loiver nolyg' val, tcr>iun;'ting i i ;? f, ire. l',j
built at the edge of an eminence, over the rvor F.den, which v. aihes a bca'.iitui bctc ,11.
The view from it ol the bridge, the church., and hun'e, ar" ..'^commonly plealing.
'I he ellateof Dairfic was (mre the property ol ilia fee ofbt. Andiew's, but in 1550 was
fcuod out to l.amont of Darfie, to be held by di:!| paid 10 this day. It was afterwards
Iv'd fo archbilhop Spotfwood.

Alter pailiiiij over a barren moor, h.ivc a mofl t'xtcni";vc viov>. . Beneath on i'tw north
i? the Ed.?n, diCcharghip 'tfelf into a fiuall bay iUKki Gai,/ bridge, <::onn(fing of fix
ar.:!irs. built by Henry W.u'diaw, bifhop of St. Andre^^'s, ^'■ho died in ,.>. j : beyond
it rhet Ruarv v>' 'l; i ay, jii'jat part of tiic count) of Anjrus, lermin;i,"f>g with the Red-
head, which, w' h FiiVriefs in this county, forms the great bay oi St. Andrew's. Full in
ffui.r, -u t:ie bo^.Kiu oi" ■, i;;ng f'ei'cent, appears the city, |)l:iccd at th^' extremity of a
plai:! at the wattr'^- '"d;;.'. Ita numerous tow(>rs and fpircs gives it an air of vaft niagni-
ficerico, and I'e'-vc to r it • the expectation of ili angers to the iiighed pitch. On entering
the well povu ■! vci'' built ilrr%'!, (Irait, and of a vait length and breadth, appears ; but
\o rtrars g. ;. un, „md Such h dreary lolitude lay before us, tliat it formed the perfect klcii
of having bi*tn laid waile by the peflilcnce.

On a faitiier advance, the towers and fpir .s, which at a d'ftance afforded fuel) an
app^araiii. -■ of grandeur, on the near view Hiewed thcmfelves • o be the awelul remains
of the mai>i.'i icent, the pious works of pad generations, A fori'igner, ignoran: of the
hiftory oi thi-- country, v.ould naturally inquire, what cdamity La-s this city undergone ?
hiis it fuficrt d a bombardment fruinfome barbarous ciil my ? or has it not, like Liiljon, felt
tls.' tiiore inevitable fut y ot a convidfive eartiuju.'ke ? but how gr.-at is the horror on ro-
t; -.Lng, that this dcUrudion vas owing to the more barbarous zeal of a minilier, who,
1', 'iis difcourles, firil eidlamed, and thru permitted a furious crowil to overthrow edi-
hc <=, dedicated to th it very Bejng h • pretended to lioinuir l)y their rtiiii. The cathe-
dral was the labour of a hundred and li\fy years, a building that did honour to the coun-
trv : yet in Ju:ie 1 c ^(), }Jm Knox eii- cied its dem; liti^ii lii a hngle day.

if we may credit Kgend, or. Aiuuvw's owes its origin to a lingular accident. St.
Rvgulus, '^r St. I'ule, as f.e is cftiii calki',, a Greek vi' Achaia, was warned by a viiu)n
to leave his njuse coui/'.ry, and vi|it Albicn, an ille placed in the remntill par: t)f the
vi ci, IJ ; and to take with liim the ann-bone, tlnve linger?, and ihrv^i toe:; of St. Amlrew.
IL' obeyed, Slid fetting (ail with liis companions, a'tcr being grievoully t.'mpeit-toll,
was in 37c at l-'Ugth (hip wrecked on the to;dls of Otiiolinia, in the territoi ; of Ih-r-
fi^ultus, King ot the Tiets. His nuijeily no (ooner lii-arJ of the arrival of the nious
• irang'^rs, and tiieir precious relique.^, thyr, he gave oiders fo; 'leir reception, prelented
the luiiit with liis own palace, and I'u.ltit mar the church, -. '. ..j to this day bears the
nam',' ol Rrgulus.

The place was then rtvled Mucrofs; c, the land urbna!- : . round was forefl, and
t'ic lands bellowed on t aint were called iJjrehid. ;"'; > .ars equalled in fize the

\2 I.'ryman.

PEWNANT'a SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

44)

Erymanthian ; as a proof, two tuiks were chained to the altar of St. Andrew, each fix-
tecn inches long, and four thick. But Regulus changed the name ,to that of Kilry
niont : hern he eftabliflied the firft chridian priefts of this country, the Culdees ; a word
which fome derive irom cultores Dei, or wor/hippers of God ; others with more judice,
from Kelcdei, or dwellers in cells. Thefe h;'.d the power of chiifing their own bifhop,
or overfeer, profefled for a long time a monadic life, and a pure and uncorrupt religion,
and withdood the power of the popes. But David 1. Tiding with his holinels in a dif-
put'j between the Culdees and the prior and canons of St. Andrew's, about the right of
chuiing a bifliop, would have engaged the former to admit the laft to partake ot the
powers of cletlion ; but on their refufal entirely diverted them of their right. From
that time their authority ceafed, and probably their order, notwithftanding they arc
mentioned again in 1298, as oppofmg the eleftion of Lamberton, and even appealing
to the pope i a fign that the original dodtrine of the Culdees was loft, and that thelc
were only fecular priefts, who founded their pretenfions to vote on the ancient ufugc
of their prcdecefTors. The prior and canons after this retained the right of eleclion.

This church was fupreme in the kingdom of the Pi£ls, Ungus having granted to
God and St. Andrew that it ftiould be the head and mother of all the churches in his
dominions *. This \\z% the prince who fird direttcd that the crofs of St. Andi'ew (hould
become the badge of the country. In 518, after the conquell: of the Pids, he rcmov.d
the epifcopal fee to St. Andrew's, and the bifliop was ftyled Muximus Scotorwn Epifcopus.
In 1 441 it was erefted into an archbiflioprick, by Sextus IV., at the intcrceliion of .
James III. In 1 606 the priory was fupprefled, and the power of eleftion, in 1617, trans-
ferred to eight bifhnps, the principal o[ St. Leonard's college, the archdeacon, the vicars
of St. Andrew's, Leuchars, and Coupar.

The cathedral was founded in 1161 by bifliop Arnold, but many years elapfcd till it
attained its full magnificence, it not being completed before 1318. Its length, from
eafl: to weft, was three hundred and feventy feet ; of the tranfept, three hundred and
twenty-two. Of this fupcrb pile nothing remains but part of the eafl and well ends,
and of the fouth fide ; with luch fuccefs and expedition did facrilege efleft its ruin.

Near the eaft end is the chapel of St. Regulus, a fingular edifice. The tower is a
lofty equilateral quadrangle, of twenty feet each fide, and a hundred and three high.
The body of the chapel remains, but the two fide-chapels are ruined. The arches of
the windows and doors arc round, fome even form more than foniicircles ; a proof nf
the antiquity : but I cannot admit Hcrguftus, to whom it is attributed, -to have been ihe
founder.

The priory was founded by Alexander I. in 1122, and the monks (canons regular
of St. Auguiline) were brought from Scone in 1 140, by Robert bilhop of this fee. By
aft of parliament, in the time of James I., the prior hid precedence of all abbots and
priors, and on the days of feftival wojc a mitre, and all epifcopal ornaments f. De-
pendent on this priory wcie thofe of Lochleven, Portmoak, Monimufk, the ifle of May,
and Pif.enween, each originally a feat of the Culdees.

The revenues of the houfe were vaft, viz. In money, 2237I. as. lo^d. 38 chaldrons,
I boll, 3 firlots of wheat ; 132 ch. 7 bolls of bear; 1 14 ch. 3 bolls, 1 peck of meal ;
? 5 1 ch. 1 o bolls, I firlot, i peck and a half of oats ; 3 ch. 7 bolls of peas and beans ; ;
480 acres of lanil alfo belonged to it.

Nothing remains of the priory except the walls of the precind:, which fliew its vaft;
t xtent. In one n.u-t is a moll artleis gateway, formed only of feven ftones. This inclo-
fure begins .'ir tljc Cuthedral, and extends to the fliore.

* Camden, 1233.

t Keldi, 237.

Ill

- I

111

« :

»J]

l?::' !'■'

The

:vil

448

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

The other re'ig'ons houfes were, one of Dominicans, founded in 1274 by bifhop
Wifhartj another of Obfcrvantines, founded by bifhop Kennedy, and finifhed by his
fKrccflor, l^atiick Graham, in 1478; and, according to fome, the Carmelites had a
fi urih

Imm diately above the harbour Rood the collegiate church of Kirk-heugh, originally
f' unded by Conflantiiie III., who, retiring from the world, became here a Culdce.
I'lom its liaving been firft built on a rock, it was ftyied Prapofttura fan6ta Maria
dc n t)e.

On the eaft fide of the city are the poor remains of tlio caftlc, on a rock overlooking
the f(.;i. I'his fortrc fs was founded, in 1 40 1 , by bilhop Trail, whaAvas buried near the
hiyh altai" of the cathedral, with this hngular epitaph :

Hie fuit ecclcfix direAa rolutnna, fcneilra
Luci'la, Thiiribulum rcdolcns, cainpana fonora.

The entrance of the caflle is flill to be feen ; and the window is fhewn out of which
it is pretended that cardinal Beaton leaned to glut his eyes with the cruel martyrdom
of George Wilhart, who was burnt on a fpot beneath. 'I'his is one of thofe relations

V hofe verity we (hould doubt, and heartily wifh there was no truth in it • ; and, on
enquiry, we may confole ourfelves that this is founded on puritanical bigotry, and in-
vented out of hatred to a perfecutor fufficiently deteftable on other accounts. Beaton
\^ as the diredor of the pcrfccution, and the caufe of the death of that pious man ; and
in this caflle, in May 1546, he met with tl,;.^ reward of his cruelty. The patience of a
fierce age, as the able Dr. Robertlbn obferves, was worn out by this nefarious deed.
Private revenge, inflamed and fancflificd by a falfe zeal for religion, quickly found a fit
iiiilrument in Norman Lefly, eldell fon of the Earl of Rothes. The attempt was as
bold as it was iliccefsful. 'Jhe cardinal at that time, perhaps infligated by his fears,
vas adding new ftrcngth to the cafllt-, and, in the opinion of the age, rendering it
impregnable. Sixteen pcrfons undertook to furprize it : they entered the gates,

V hich were left open I y the workii;en, early in the morning, turned out his retinue
\fcithout cnnfufion, and forced open the door of the cardinal's apartment, which
he had barricadoed on the firll alarm. The confpirators found him fcatcd in his chair •
they tran6lixcd him with their fwords, and he expired, crying, " I am a priell ! fie ! fie 1
all is gone!" He merited his death, but the manner was indefenfible, as is candidly
admitted by his enemy, the hillorian and poet, Sir David Lindlay .

A» for tliij carjim!, I grant,

Hf was a man we might well want;

God will tiirjjivc It fooD. •

Lut uf a tiiuli the fuotb to Uy,
Altho' the loon be well away,

The I'ait wai foully doiie.

The confpirators were inflantly befieged in the caflle by the regent, Earl of Arran-
and, nutuiththnuiing they had acquired no greater flrength than a hundred and I'ifiy
iiKU. ri filled all his cliorts for five months : at length they funontlcred, on the regent
engacing to procure for them an abfolution from the pope, and a pardon from the
5c 4ti(li parliiur.ent.

I Ihall llep (rather out of courfe) to the cluirch of Sf. Nicholas, remarkable for the
ni'jnumeiit of a prelate, whofe life and death bears, in fonie refpefts, a great fimilitude

• 13iown's Vulgar Errori.

10 ,.^

PZNKAMT'cI second tour m SCOTLAt^D.

449

to that of the cruel Beaton. Archbiftiop Sharp was originally bred a rigid prefbyterian,
had the full confidence of the party, and was entrufled with their interefts at tne time
of the Refloration. Tempted by the fplendour of the preferments of our church, he
apollatized from his own, received in reward the archbiflioprick of St. Andrew's, and,
as i^ commonly the cafe with converts, became a violent perfeculor of his deferted
brethren. His career was flopped in 1679. Nine enthuftads, fome of them men of for-
tune, inftigated by no private revenge, bound themfelves by vow to facrifice him to the
fufleiings of their fed. They had enquired the Lord's mind anent, i. e. concerning the
murder, and the word bore in upon them, " Go and profper*." On the third of
IVIay they met him in his coach on Magus-moor, four miles from the city, accompanied
by his daughter. As foon as he faw himfelf purfued, he ^<ve up all hopes of life, was
taken out of his carriage, and, amidfl the cries and entreaties of the lady, moll cruelly
and butcherly murdered. He died with the intrepidity of a hero, and the piety of a
chrifli;jn, praying for the alTaflins with his latefl: breath ! The murderers all retired to
feparate prayer ; and one of them, William Daniel, after prayer, told them all that
the l.ortl had laid unto him, " Well done, good and faithful fervantsf."

The monument is very magnificent : in the lower part is reprefented the manner of
his death ; in the middle the prelate is placed kneeling, the mitre and crofier falling
from him ; an angel is fubflituting, inftead of the firft, a crown of glory, with the allu-
llvc words, pro viitra ; and above is the bas relief of a falling church, fupported by the
figure of the archbilhop. This piece of flattery is attended with as flattering an epitaph :
the difputablo parts of his life are fully related ; his undoubted charity and deeds of
alms omitted.

In the church of St. Salvator is a mod beautiful tomb of blfliop Kennedy, who died,
an honour to his family, in 1466. The Gothic work is uncommonly elegant. Within
the tomb were difcovered fix niagnificMit macccj, which had been concealed here in
iroublefome times. One was given to each of the other three Scotch univerfities, and
three are preferved here. In 'lie top is rcprcLnted our Saviour; around are angels,
with the inftruments o*-" 'ie pafllon.

With thf^feare flievvn lome filver arrows, with u -ge Olvcr plates affixed to them, on
which arc infcribcd the arms and nam^s of the noble y rl}, victors in the annual com-
petitions in the generous art of arci:?ry, which were Ji.'pt but a few years ago; and
golf is now the reigning game. That fport and football were formerly prohibited, as
uillefs and unprofii )hle to the public ; and at all weapon fchawings, or reviews of the
people, it was ordered that " fute-bal and golfe be utterly cryed down, and that bow-
inarkcs be maid at ilk parifli krk, a pair of buttes and ichutting be ufed. And that ilk
men fchutte fox flholles at leutf, under the paine to be raiped upon them that cummis
not, at lealt twa pennycs to be given to them that cummis to the bow-markes ta
drinkej."

The town of St. Andrew's was ercftcd into a royal borough by David I., in the year
1140, and their privileges were afterwards r-^r firmed. The charter of Malcolm IV.

ib p'eff rved in the tolbouth, and appears wrii

a bit of parchment ; but the con-

tents equally valid v.itli what at thistiir.e would require whole Ikins. In this place is to
b.' lem the nionilrous ax that, in 1646, took off the heads of Sir Robert Spotfwood
;i;ul i)ther diRinguiflicd loyalifls, for the wretched preachers had declared that God re-
quir d *heir blood. Here are kept ihu filver keys of the city, which, for form fake, are

• Rim i on tlic liillnry of SooiIiiikI, by Sir David Dalryinp'e, tfij.
•J- Skviit'o bcoltilh A.'l'i of Tj:! JaiiHsll. c 05.

VOL. III. 3 M

t Ibid.

iiji

■■■ 'ii

III

1 11

<f'l»

delivered

i' ■'.^■''"^idiiS.^

^Uvj^

45° PENMAN r 8 81.C0NP TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

delivcrod to the King fhoiiUI he vifit the plact*, or to a victorious enemy, in tokon of
fubiiilflion. It vindtrurnt a fie'jc in 1.^37, at which time it \v:ir, polliflfc) hv tlic F.iiglilh
anil other partlz;'.ns of Raliul ; b>if the Ioy:>Iilf.«, under the K;uls of M.wch and Kite,
made th'-nifeives nurtcr'^ of it in tlirce wnks, hy the help of their lettering nuichints.
It furrendered on terms of fectjrity to the inhabitants as to hfe, limbs, and furt/nie.

The city b j;rcjitly •■■ vl ; 1 'he number of inliab'tants ; at prefrnt it fcaicdv ex-

ceeds two tlunifand 1 he;\ 'i\r 1 o certainty of the fuin when it was the Ra' of the pri-
n'ato, and in the lulnc's uf iti. glory. All we know is, that duri 4^ the period of its
fj)I(ndour thtrr vit^: bctwci-n fixly and feventy bakers; but at this time nine or ten arc
fulTicient for th' [)larc. '1 he circuit of tliis city is a mile, and contains three priiitipal
ftrects. The trade of St. Andrew's was alio once very ctudiderable. I am informed
ti)at, during the time of Cronuvell's ufurpation, fixty or feventy villMs ludnugcd to the
port; at piv lent only one of any fi/e. 'I' ' -rbour is artificial, guarded by piers,
with a narrow entrance to ^'ivo (heiter to vctlels from ihe violence of a moft heavy lea.
The inanufadurcs this city might in former times poirefs are now reduced to one, that
of golf-balls, which, triHing as it may feem, maintains feveral people. The trado is
commonly fatal to the artilts, for the balls are made by fluflin^^ a great quantity of feaihcrs
into a .athern cafe, by help of an iron rod, with a wooden handle, prcfled againll the
brr-aft, V hich ftlilom fails to bring on a conlumption.

The celebrated univerfity of this city was founded in 141 1 by bifliop Wardlaw, and
the next year he obtained from Bencdid 111. the bull of confirmation. It confilted once
of three c> lieges : St. Salvator's, founded in 1458 by biihop Kennedy. This is a hand-
lome buildinr, with a court or quadrangle w ithin : on one fide is the church, on another
the library; the third contains apartments for fludents; the fourth is unfinillied.

St. Leonard's college was founded by prior Hepburn in 1512. This is now united
vith the lall, and the buildings fold, and converted into private houfes.

The new, or St. Mary's college, was eflabliflied by archbifh j llamilton ii) 155, ,
b'U the houfe was built by James and David 13ethune, or Beaton, who did not live t'
complete it. This is faid to have been the fite of a fcholj illujtris long bifore theelh.
blifinnent even of the uiiiverfity, where fcveral eminent clergymen taught, gratis, the
fcicnees and langiiagis. But it was called the new college, becaufe ot its late eredi* a
into a divinity college by the archbifhop.

The univerfity is governed by a chancellor, an office originally defi^ned to be perpe-
tually vefled in the arrhbifhops of St. Andrew's; but Tince the Reformation, he is
cK ct< d by the two principals, iiid the prufelVors of both the colleges.

The prefcnt chai.t !lor h the Earl ol Rinnoull, who, with his charaderillic s'-eal for
promoting all good wotks, has ellalilifli.d lure premium?, to I>e dillributi d among the
ftudcnts, who make the bell figure ii the annual exerciies. The eiled is already very
n;rarcnt, in exciting ihe ambition I'f a generous youth to receive thefe marks of dil-
liiidion that will honour their latell dav;-.

The rector is the next creat oHlcer, to whofc care is committed the privileges, difei-
piine, and (latutcsof the u/iiverfity. T';^ colleges iiave their rtf'ors, and profelfors of
different fciences, who are iruUfari able in their atttntion to t'le inllrudion of the ihi-
denis, and to that eflliitial artir' ■ ir ni rals. 'Ihis place poilelles feveral very great
advantages rcfpcding the cducai.ju of ) uuh. The air is pure and falubrious ; the
place for oxercife dry and extenfive; the exercifes themfelves healthy and innocent.
1 he univerfity is fixtd in a pcniniulated country, remote from all commerce with the
^orld, the haunt of didipation. From the fniallnefs of the fociety every Undent's
charaAer is pcrfcQIy known. No little irregularity can be committed, but it is

14 inltantly

HiNNANT 8 StCOND ToUR IM SCOTLAND.

4JI

, for the iiicur-

inftantly ilifcovi .i and checked : vice cuiinnt attnin a head in t!ie pbc
ridable are n. ver perinittod to remain the conuptors of the relt.

I'lie fludeiits may be boarded in the co1Ic|[>(r, or in private houfes, or in thofe of the
profcifors. 'Ihe price at the colleges is only eidit pounds for tlie feirions, which ialls
Kvon months. 'I'he dit't is very I'oo 1, and a mailer always pn fides ai ihc! tabic.

The price at iht- profillors, or at private houfes, is from ten to tweiity-five pounds a
quarter. I obferved at one of the profellbr's, young gentlemen i'rom Haih, from Jiour-
tleaux, and from linn ; a proof of the extenlivc reputation of thu univerfity, notwiih-
(tanding the (Indents are iar Jrom numerous: there are at prcfent little more hau a
hundred, who during feliions wear ri d gowns without lleeves.

Sept. 1 2. Leave St. Andrew's; afcend a hill, and find the country on the heights very
uncultivated, and full of moors. Here firlt meet with collieries on this fide of North
liritain. Defcend into a tr.\ci rich in corn, and enjoy a moll extenfive and beautiful
view of the firth of Forth, the Bodotria of Tacitus. 'I'he Bafs ifland, with the flwres of
Lothian, extending beyond Edinburgh, bound the fouthern profped. 'I'o the left, a
few mdcs from the coalt of Fife, appears the ifle of May, about a mile in length, inac-
ceflible on the weflern fide, on the ealtern is fafc riding for fhi|)s in wefterly ftorms.
This ifle in old times was the property of the monks of Reading, in Yorkfhire ; and iu
it David L founded a cell, dedicated to all the faints, who were aft'Twards fuperfeded
by Adrian, a holy man, murdered by the Danes in Fife, and buried lure. By his inter-
celTion the barren had the curfe of iteriliiy removed from them ^ and great was the
refort hither of female pilgrims.

It was afterwards annexed io the priory of St. Andrew's, having been purchafed by
biflinp Lamberton for that purpofe, from the religious of Reading, in defiance of all the
remonftances of that tremendous monarch, the conqueror of Scotland. In later times a
liglithoule has been erected on it.

Reach the (here of the fine bay of Largo ; pafs by the lands of the fame name, bc-
ftowed in 1482 by James 111. on that gallant feaman, his faithful fervant, Sir Andrew
Wood, in order to keep his fliip in trim. With two fliips he attacked and took five
Englilh men of war, that infeded the firth ; and foon after had equal fucccfs againfl
another fquadrnn, fent out by Henry VII. to revenge the difgrace *. The Scots, during
the rei;4nb of James III. and IV., were ftrong rivals to England in maritiiiie affairs.

Continue my ride along the curvature of this beautiful bay, and meet with the cheer-
ful and frequent fuccellion of towns, chateaux, and of well-managed farms. The country
ig populous : the trade is coal and (alt; the laft made from the fea water. The coal
is exported chiefiy to Canipvcre and Rotterdam, and generally oats are brought back
in return.

Go through the village of Lundie. In a field not far diflant are three vaft upright
ftoncs ; the largefl is fixteen feet high, and its folid contents two hundred and feventy.
There are fragments or veRiges of tfiree c'hers ; but their fituation is fuch as baffles
any attempt to guefs at the form ')f their original difpofition when the whole was
entire. Near this place the Danes met v. ith a confiderable defeat from the Scots, under
the condud of Macbeth and Banquo : it is therefore probable that thefe ftones are
monuments of the victory. Mr. Dougal, of Kirkaldie, who was fo obliging as to fa-
vour me with their admeafurcment, gave himfelf the trouble of caufing the earth about
them to be examined, and found, on digging about four feet deep, fragments of human
bones.

Staggering State, Sic. 147.
3 M »

^iil

Breakfaft

45»

MNNANT'f UCOND TOUR TN ICOTLANrt

Bivakfalt at the town of Levin, on the water of the fume name, ir lin^ trom Loch*
leven, near Kinrofs. The moutli forms a h;jrbour, where at \\\^U \,iiter veffcls of a
hundred tons may enter. Somewhat farther are the piers uf Methcl, built iu tlie lalt
century by David Earl of Wemys. Go through the villages of Uuci(havcn, VVi inys,
and Kafter-Wcmys ; all in the beginning of the la(l century carrying on a confidprable
fiftiery. (In an eminence impending ov«r the lea is th.> hoiile of Wemys, the fcit of
the ancient family of that name, delcendi'd from the old Karls of Fife. The place de.
rives its title from the various caverns in the clilTs beneath. I forgot to mention, that
on the (hores near St. Andrew's, and on dllVercnt parts of this coali, is found that beau-
tiful plant, \\w palmonaria nuiritima^ or fea bi»j^lors,one()f the moll elegant in ourilland.
It is frequent alfo among liie Hebrides ; i'.nd immediati-ly attrads the eye by its fme
glaucous colour, an<l by the fme red and blm' fiowers which tulivon the dreary beach.

Pafs through a trad of collieries, and oblirve muUitiuK's of circular holes, furrouiuied
with a mound, and filled with water. Thefe coal-heughs, or pits, were once the fpi.
racles or vent-holes in inexperienced days of mining. Many ul the beds have been on
fire for above two centuries; and there have bein formerly ind.uices of eruptions of
fmoke apparent in the day, of fire in the night. The vioK;ncc of the cor.llii^ratiun has
Ccafed, but it Hill continues in a certain (le,!;ree, as is evident in tiuie of fnow, whicli
melts in llreams on the furface wherever there are any (iiVures. Georj^^e Agrieul.i, the
great metatturgiil, takes notice of the plntii'uneuon at this place *.

Buchanan, from this circumllance, fixed on tht- iieighl'ourhooil of Dyfart for the
fcene of exorcifm in his Francilcanus, aud jjivcs an admirable d(.fcriptivc view ol it un-
der the horror of an eruption :

Campin trat lalc inciiltii', noii fJoribiM fiorti
yVrii'lviil, noil mtfl'rajMi, mm Ijoiidihiin aibott
Vix llciilis fic'CiH vdliliir arcii.-i myricil :
£t prcorum riira in folia vplli^ia tcrrii :
VIcini Difcita vocaiit. IIjI faxca fiibtor
Antra tcjiiiit iii^ran viilciiTii: (emina (runtrl :
Sulpliurtlii pafTitn concrpta inccniii.« vciii*.
Fumiltram volvunt ncbulain, picroqur vjpnre
Semper aiihrlut luimtit : czcilque iucUif,i cavcrm's
FlaniMia furcht. (Kirn lavlaiu'o penetrate Tub auiM
Cnnatur, tnlts pafllm fpiraciila cnmpls
KinJil, ct iiif;rn(i tillurcm panJit b'atii :
Trtei uJor, trillifque babitu) r<i(.ic'l>)iic locorum.

A little beyond this once tremendous place is the town of Dyfart, a royal burgh,
large, and full of people. Leave on the loft the cafUe of Ravenfheugh, feated on a clift".
Pal's by Path-head, a place of check-weavers and nailers : a modern creation, for within
thefe fixty years, from being fcarcely inhabited, about four hundred families have been
collefled, by the encouragement of feuing. Adjoining is Kirkaldie, a long town, con-
taining fixteen hundred inhabitants : this is another royal burgh, where 1 experienced
the hofpitality and care of Mr. Olwald, its reprefentative, during a (hort illneisthat over-
took me here.

This, like innft other maritime towns of Fife, depends on the coal and fait trade. Tlie
rountry is very j npulous, but far le!s than it was before the middle of the lall century,
when the filhcries were at their height. During winter it pofTefled a vaft h( rring-fdhery ;
in fpring a mofl profitable one of white fiih. One fatal check to population was the
viftorits of Mouiiofe. The natives of this coaft were violently feized with the religious

• Dc Natura FoflHium, p. 597. Agricola died in 1555.

furor

PtNKANT 3 S?CONT) TOUK IN ICOTLAND. 453

furor of the times, and took up the caufu of the covenant with inofl Jifll-^;' -01011 zeal.
Iii(ii;!;;itcil liy their proachcrf, ilicy crowdcU under the banners of the ,;oJJy, md fiv«
ihouland loll vitliins to cnthuli.idic dchifion at tlie battle of 'l"ippir-n>o<

Of late years many ol the inhabitants have rcnjoved to the fouth•v^ .ilern parts of
this kingdom ; yet Kill fuch nun^bers rtmain, that more provifions are confumcd than
even this fertile country can liipply. 'I'hcrc is one uhifs of men on this coaft, and I
believe in moll of the coal countries of North Hritain, from whom all power of migrat-
ing is taken, bi' their inclinations lor it ever fo flrong. In this very illand is, at this day,
to be found a remnant of ilavcry paralleled only in Poland and Rullia ; tlioufands of our
fcllow-fubjeds an? at this time the property of their landlords, appurtenances to their
eltates, and transferable with lliem ti> any piirchafers. Multitudes of colliers and falters
are in this fituation, who are l-oiuid to tlie Ipot for tlieir lives; and even ftrangers who
come to lettlc there are bound by the lame cruel ciillom, unlels they previoufly lUpulatc
to the contrary. Should the poor people remove to another place on a temporary cel-
fation ol the works, they arc liable to be recalled at will, and conllrained to return on
fjvero penalties *. This, originally founded on valTtlage, might have been continued to
cheek the wandering fpirit of the natieii, and to prcferve a body of people together, of
vhofe lofs the whole public might otherwile feel the moll fatal elFefls.

During my Hay at Kirkdklie I lent my fervant, Mofes Grilfith, to l)o6lan, about four
miles diltanl, where he dr^w the colunm moll crroiicoufly figured h) Sir Robert Sib-
bald \. It is at prefent much defaced by time, but dill are to be dilcerned two rude
figures of men on horfeback ; and on the other fides may be traced a running pattern
of ornament. The ftone is between fix and feven feet high, and mortifed at the bottom
into another. 'I'his is faid to have been eroded in memory of a vidory, near the Leven,
over the Danes in 874, under their leaders Hungar and Hubba, by the Scots, com-
manded by their prince, Coudantine II.

Sept. 1 5. Coniinuo my journey. After proceeding about a mile, pafs by the Grange,
once the feat of the hero Kirkaldie, a (Irenuous partizan of Mary Stuart, after her florm
of misfortune commenced ; before, an honell oppofer of her indifcretions. After an
intrepid defence of Ed'uburgh calUc, he fell into the hands of the regent Morton, who,
fearing his unconquerable ipirit, bafely fufftred him to um' • j the jnoll ignominious
death.

Leave on the left the ruins ofScafield cafilc, a fquare tov" •. \ ' j
former times the feat of the Moutrays. A little farther i" 1 .:>.ah'
borough. The callle was one of the feats of the k'iicf ' ' ^' •'■
Robert II., who, giving his daughter in marriage 'o hi. ";' '. 1 ,'
part of portion. At this place is the ferry between wh: ; ■
Lcith, a trajett of feven miles. Below this tv)wn, on ti .o;. ..

Scoticum, or Scotch parlley, the fliunis of the Hebrides, where it is often eaten raw as
a fallad, or boiled inilead of greens. This root is elleemed a good carminative; and an
infufion of the leaves in whey is ul'ed there as a purge for calves.

Oppofite to Kinghorn, nearly in the middle of the firth, lies Inch-kelth, an ifland of
about a mile in length. It is faid to derive its name from the gallant Keith, who fo
greatly fignalized himfilfliy his valour in 1010 in the battle of Barry, in Angus, againll
the Danes; after which he received in reward the barony of Keith, in Lothian, and this
little ilk*. This feetiis to be the place that Bede calls Cacr-Guidi, there being no other
that will fuit the fituation he gives it in thw' middle of the Forth J. His tranllator renders

• Thisdifk'race, I btlicve, it now uuJcr coiifidtration of pavliament, and will, 1 hope, be removed.

i! near the Ihore, in

., a fmall town and

!i(>, till the time of

. -d this town in

If and the port of

grovv'i the ligujlicum

I Hiil of 1-iff, p 34'

X hill. I'ccl. lib. i. c, 11.

Caer

H'i

r 'I

ffy^

454

PCNNANT 8 »r OND TifUR IN SCOTI.ANn.

CaCi" bv th.^ word city ; but it fliouKi be rendered a fort or pod, whiofi will give proba-
biliiy to Beiie's account,

III 1549 the Kiikiliih tiect, font by Edward VI. to aifift the lords of uic con^rc(;;uion
ar;;unn the queen do\vac;er, landed and hepin to fortify tliis il];'.nd *. of the importance
-ofwliich thty grew feniihle after their nigiecl of fecuring the port of Leith, fo lately in
their power. Tliey left here five companies to cover the workni-en, under the comniari
of (dotterel ; but their operations were foon interrupted by M. D.llr, geneia! of t!iL«
French auNJliuries, who took ilie plice, alter a g.d'aiit dJonce on tl;e part of the
Englifli. 'Ihc Scots kept pi-lTellicn for I'oine years ; but at lall the fortifications wer>;
dellroyed by ad of parliament, to prevent it from being of any ufe to tiie foiiner f. 'I'i.e
French gave it the name oi" I'ljle dcs chcvaux, Irom its properly of {oow fattening
horfes.

In M97, by order (.^S. council |, all venereal patients in the neighbourhood of tlio
capital were tranfported there, nc quid (htri»u>:fi ir/pul'/iiti apcni. It is remarkable
that this dilbrder, which was thoii<.'lit to have made its appearance in Europe only four
years before, IhouJd make fo quick a progrefs. The horror of a difeafe, for which
there was at that period no cure known, mull; have occailoned tliis attention to Ib^p
the contagion ; for even half a century after, one of the firlt monarchs in Europe,
Francie I., fell a vidim to it.

About a mile from Kinghorn is the precipice fatal to Alexander III. who, in 128^,
was killed by a fall from it, as he was riding in the dulk of the evening §. A mile
beyond this is the town of Brunt-illand , the befl; harbour on the coall, formed by a
rocky ifle, eked out with piers, for there are none on this fide the' country entirely
natural. 'I his is dry at low water. The church is fquare, with a lleeple rifing in the
centre. 'I'he old caflle built by the Duries commanded both town and harbour. The
place has a natural firength, which, with the convenieiicy of a port oppofite to the
capital, made it, during the troubles ot 1 ^60, a molt delirable poii. I'he Fre'ncb,
allies of the (Jueen Rigci.t, fortified it flrongly. in 1715 it was iiirprifed, and pof-
feiled by the rebels, who here formed the bold deiign over a body of troops to the op.
pofite (hore ; which was in part executed under the conduct of Brigadier Macintoih,
iiotwiihdanding all the ellorls of cur men of var.

A little farther is Abcrdour, another fmall town. The Earl of IVIoi ton has a pleafant
feat litre. In old times it belonged to the Viponis |j ; in 1 126 was transferred to the
IMoriimeis by marriage, and afterwanls to ihe Douglales. William, Et)id of Liddef-
dale, furnamed the Flower of chivalry, in the reign of David II. by charter, conveyed
it to James Douglas, anceltor of the preleiit noble owner. '1 he monks of Iiich-cohn
had a grant for a burial pl.ice here, irom Allan de Mortimer, in the reign of Akx-
i'nder III. 1 he nuns, ulually ilyled the poor Clares, had a convent at this place.

I had the piealure of feeing near Abcrdour, a moll felc£l colkclion of |.icluri s, made
by Captain Stuart, who, with great politenel;^, obliged me with the fight oi them. It
'S in vain to attempt the defcription of this elegant cabinet, as I may fay, one i)arr or
other uftd to be always on the march. This gentleman indulges his elegant and lau-
dable pallion lo far as to form out of them uii cabinet pcrtiii/\ which is his amufement
on tne road, in quarters ; in fhort, the companions of all his motions. His houfe is
very fmall; fo get at his library 1 afcmded a ladder, which rem; ided me of the habita-
tion of Mynhier Bifcop, at Rotterdam, the richell repofitory in Europe under the
poorefl roof.

• Lidev, 479. I Maitland, ii. icr R. f Vide Appendix,

fj AnualiScoiU'il, i'3. Ij Sibbald'* Fi»"c, in.

Two

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

455

Two or three miles to the weft lies Iiich-colm, a fmall ifland at a little diftance from
the fliore, celebrated for a inonaltery founded about 1 1 23, by Alexander I. on this
fingular occafion. In p^fling the firth of Forth he was overtaken with a violent Itonn,
which drove him to this iflaiid, where he met with the niofl hufpitable reception from
a poor hermit, then refiding here in the chapel of St. Coliimb, who, for the three
days that the King continued there tempefl-bound, entertained him with the milk of his
cow, and a few fhell-iilh.' His Majeity, from the lenic of tlie danger he had efcaped,
and in gratitude 10 the faint, to wliom he attributed his fafjty, vowed fomc token of
refp^-fl, and accordingly founded here a monallery of Auguflinos, and dedicated it to
St. Columba *. Allan de Mortimer, Lord of yVberdour, who attended Edward III. in
his Scotch expedition, beliowjd half of thofe lands on the monks of this iflaud, for the
privilege of a family burial place in their church.

The buildings made in confequence of the piety of Alexander were very confiderable.
Thcrs- are fUll to be f'.en a large fquarc tower belonging to the church, the ruins of
the church, and of feveral other buildings. The wealth of this place in the time of
Edward III. proved fo llrt)ng a temptation to his fleet, then lying in the Forth, as to
fupprefs all the horror of I'acrilegc, and refpecl to the fanclity of tlie inhabitants. The
Englifh landed, ajul fp.ired not even the furniture more immediately confecrated to
divine worfhip. IJut due vrugoance overtook them, for, in a florm which inflantly
followed, many of them perilhed ; thofe who efcaped, flruck with the juflice of the
judgment, vowed to make ample recompence to the injured faint. The tempefl ceafed,
and they made the promifed atonement \.

The Danifh nionumenr, figured by Sir Robert Sibbald, lies on the fouth-eafl; fide of
the building, on a rifing ground. It is of a rigid form, and the furface ornamented
witli fcale-like figures. At each end is the rcprefentalion of a human head.

Boothius gives this iflaud the nauie ofEinonia, from Y mona, or tlie ifle of Mona.

Afii.r leaving this place, ftc, on the left, Dn:iil)riill.'I. the fat of the E.irl of .vlurray.
In 1592 this was the fceneoi the eiu. 1 murder of the boany, (n- the handfome Earl, wliofia
charms were ftippoteil to have en^a'.',td the l.eart of Amie of D.mmark, and to have
excited tlie j^alouly of her r.)yal Jpoufe. The tonuer at leafl was the popular notion
of the time :

I!c was a biavv j^Miiaut

And lie pl.iyM al llic gllivi- ;
A<>i\ [\\c hiHiny K.iil of Miiiry,

Oil ! lie u.iij tliL Q^v.cuts love.

Political roafons W'^re given for his arrefl: ; but more than an arrefl fcems to have
been inteiiiKi!, lor the cfjiiuniHiou was entrufled to tiis inveterate enemy Iluntly, who,,
witli a number of arm \1 n\cn, furrouauing the houfe ia a dark night, let it on fire,
on Murray's refufal to furreiuler; he ei'capcd the llames, but was unfortunately dif-
covir.d by a (park that fell on his helmet, and " as ilaia, in telling Gordon of Ruckic,
who !;ad wovuulod hin< in the tae.*, " i'uu '\!-vc fpilf a bjttc- face tl\i!i \our atain."

Ride through Iiwerkeilhiag, a royal burgh ; and, during the time of David I. a
royal refidcnce. It was much favoured by William, who, in their firfl charter, ex-
tended its liberties from tht> water of Dovau to that of Leven. Tlie iNIowbrays had
large poll'eflions here, forfeited in the reign of Robert I. The Francil'cans had a con-
vent in this town ; and, according to Sir Robert Sibbald, the Dominicans had another.

Separated from the bay ol Inverkeithing by a fiuall headland, is that of St, INIargaiet
the place where that illuliiious prineels, afterwards queen of Malcdm 111. landed

* Ooctliiua,. lib. xii. p. 2Cj, I lb. lib. XV. p 31^,

with

it-

■^

•*■■:, III

4s6 pennant's second tour in scotx.and.

with her brother Edgar in 1068, after their flight from England, to avoid the confe-
quences of the jealoufy of the Conqueror, on account of the title of the former to the
crowii. This paflage is alfo called the Queen's ferry, being afterwards her familiar
paffage to Dumfermline, her ufual refidence.

The village on this fide is called the North-ferry. At this place ftood a chapel,
ferved by the monks of Dumfermline, and endowed by Robeit I. Near it arc the
great granite quarries, which help to fupply our capital with paving ftones, and em-
ploy a number of veflels for the conveyance. The granite lies in perpendicular (lacks,
and above is a reddifli earth, filled with micaceous friable ncdules.

From Kinghorn to tliis place the firth coutrads itfeif gradually ; but here, by the
jutting out of the northern fljore, almofl "niltantly forms a ftrait of two miles in
breadth, and beyond as fuJdenly opens in a large and long cxpanfe. Ah lui midway
of this llrait lies Inchgarvie, with the ruins of a fort. This was a fine fiation to review
the fliores I had travelled, and to feall the eye with thti whole circuniambier.t view.
The profpcd on every part is beautiful : a rich country, divedified with the quickeft
fucccdion of towns, villages, callles, and feats ; a vaft view up and down the firth
from its -extremity, not remote from Stirling, to its mouth near Miiy ifland, an extent
of fixty miles. 'I'o particularife the objeds of tliis rich fcene mull l-e enumerated, the
coalls ol Lothian and of Fire, the ifles ot Garvie and Inch-colm, the town of l)um-
fcrline ; the fnuili and noitli ferries, and Burrowftoncls, fiuuukiiig at a diftancc, from
its numerous lalt-pans and (ire-i ngiuis : ^n the louth fide ;ire Hopetoun houle, Dun-
das calile, and many other gentlemen's feats, with Biacknefb caltle, once an important
fortrefs : on the north fule are Rofylh taHle, once the feat ot the Stuarts, formerly a
royal houfe and the le.it of Queen Margaret ; DunibiilTel, and, in 'he didant view, the
calile and town of Burnt-inand ; Leiih, with its roads often tilled witii fhips, and a mag-
nificent view of Edinburgh calile on the IcUi allilt to coinpLte this various pidure.

/\i> I am nearly arriv d at the extremity, permit me to take a review of the pinin-
fula ot Fife, a county lo jnipuloiis, that, excepting the environs of London, fcaice one
in South-hriti in can vie with it ; fertile in foil, abundant in cattle, iiappy in collieries,
in iron, Hone, lime, aiid Iree-flone, blcll in manufaftuns, the property remarkably
well divided, none iutuhingly ptnverful, to diilrels and often to depcpulaie a cuunir)',
molt of the fortunes of a ulclul mediociity. Tlie number of toi\ns is perhaps un-
paralKled in an equal trad of coaft, for the whole fhore (rem Crail to Culrols, about
forty Kng'ifh uiik;-, is one or.iinucd chain of towns and \illag s. With juflice. there*
fere, docs Joliniton celebrate the advantages of the country in ihefc lines :

Opplda fic t(.tc) fiiiit Ipaifa in iittori;, iit uiium

Dixeris ; ji que i ,io |)liiii'in junClii t.nltm.
Littorc jiiot ^iiivo [•" rtl'X vol. initiir ;irir.x

(^uittjiit ir.Jia iillii) imidivur i.r.i f.:!.) ;
Pine t< ( hie icinis ir.ttia'i^m pupj^iutii x.('jor,

Urliibiis tt ciiItis pcne lot ot;; liomiiui n.
Cun a t.peii^ i Jtii.ti il iinii lieil:; fiiii ticfcit ;

^'ccllll,l cur I dumi fttiula 1111.1 (01 is
Q^a: ir,;iiia < t qii.is i.o;i ttnas .iu:'ii(j!",i juvculUJ

Hit ! fr,.pili iiiitrti ;i!i<!i't adirc tia'uf,
Au'it ope, virtuf, \iiriai diia piili

Ji ucta, ctiam lucro li .n::ui fuiir lu 1.
Juy (ci-e virf; .Tiiinii s, ciilluinqiii' ilrlirf
jnanimis profiint dtiinna, pcritla, l.iljor.

After Laving pa.'^ed by th.e Qu^^en's ferry, turn nimo.'l due north. .See, on the road
fide, a great done, culled Quccii Margaret's, (or traditijn i\;y$, fhe ivpoltd hcrielf on

5 * it

pknnant's skcond TOTia IN Scotland.

457

u m licr way to Dunifennline. In a little U\n? luwc a fine view of that flounlliing
town, and the ruins of its cathedra! ;ind pahic^ full in front.

Duniftrniiine hcs at tho diliance of four miles from tlie firth, is prettily fituated on
a riling ground, and tliecouiUry r;iuiid is bo;pitirully d.ivided by low and well-cultivated
hills; iho grounds arc incNilid. and planted wiih hedge -row trocs, 'J'hc town wants
the advantage of a river, but has a fniall flreiuii for econoniic ufes, which is conduded
through the (Irects in a flagged chuiuul. At i::> difchargc it joins another rivulet,
then arriving at ,a fall into a wooded dell of a hundred feet in depth, becomes again
iii'efui ill turning hvo mills, placed one below the other, with room for as many more.
1 hree of (he mills are lor corn, the lou) th for P.ax, the fifth for b>.ating iron. This
dell wuuls about the wellern fide of the town, is cloathod with trees, and in one pnrt
contributes a moll pidurei'que fccnesy to the walks laid out by Mr. Chalmers, whole
feat is on th.e oppofue banks.

This place is very populous. The number of inhabitants are between fix and feven
fhouland ; and fuch have been the improvements in manufaclures as to have increalcd
near double its ancient number within the lafl twelve years. The manufnctures are
damalks, di;ipers, checks and ticking, to the anir.mt of forty thoufand pounds a year;
thelc employ in town and neighbourhood about a thoufand looms. I was informed that
the number might be doubled if it was not prevented by the low duty on foreign linens,
which encourages a foreign importation. But probably fome other bi"anch of Britifli
trade might receive its injury in a greater degree, was that importation to be checked.

That the iron bufinefs does not llomifli more in this place is a matter of furprife.
Iron Hone abounds. Mere are collieries in all parts, even to the very entrance of the
town ; and tlio coals of fuch variety, that in diilerent parts are found, befides the
Scotch, thofe which have the qualities of the Newcaflle, and of the Kilkenny. I am
informed that, on the Pittencrlef efhue, are feven feams of coals in the depth of thirty
lathom, from the thicknefs of two to that of eight feet, all of which may be worked
w ith a level without the afliflance of any machinery. The price of coal here is from
twenty-pence to half-a-crown a ton.

The moft remarkable modern building here is the Tolbooth, with a flender fquare
tower, very lofty, and topped with a conic roof. Mr. Chalmers has alfo made a work
of vail cxpence over the glen on the welt end of the town, in order to form a com-
munication with his cllnte, and to encourage buildings and improvemems on that fide*
To eliccl: which, he liilcil that part of the glen with earth, after making a drain for
the water beneath, \\hi.:h runs through an arched channel three hundred feet long,
ten high and twelve wide.

This place has been at times, from very dlllant periods, the refidence of the Scotitli
monarchs. Malcolm C.inmor lived here, in a caflle on the top of an infulated hill, in
the midll of the glen ; but only fome poor fragments remain. A palace was afterwards
built on the fide next the town, which, falling to decay, was re-built by Anne of Den-
mark, as appears by the following infcription :

Propylaiuft ct fupcrjii itctas (edcs vctujlule et injuriis temponim coHapfas dirutafque ; a
fundanuntis in banc ainplionmformam, rejiituit et injiauravit ^mm Regina Irederici Da-
iiorum Regis augujiijjiriiifilia: anno falutis 1600.

The ruins arc magnificent, and do credit to the reftorcr. In this palace fhc brought
forth her unfortunate fon Charles I. A gateway intervenes between the royal refi-
dence and the magnificent abby.

Begun by Malcolm Canmorc, and finifhed by Alexander T. It was probably firft
intended for the pious and more ufeful purpofe of a religious infirmary, being ftyled in

VOL.. III. 2 N fome

■!i;i!

III

RUCjfewWt •fJ^Xf^ax^T',

li:

458 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

fome old manufcripts * Monajlerium ab morte infirmortm. David I. chanpjed it into
an ahby, and brought into it thirteen monks from Canterbury, but at the diitblution it
fupported twenty-fix t- Its endowments were very confiJerable. At the Reformation
the revenue, in money alone, was two thoufand five hundred and thirteen pounds
Scots. Some of the grants were fingular : that of David 1. gives it the tythe of all
the gold found in Fife and Fotherif, a proof of the precious metal being then dif-
covered in flreams flowing from tlic: hills. Another, from the fame monarch, inverts
it with part of the feals taken near ICinghorn ; and a third by Malcolm IV., gives them
the heaJs except the tongues) of certain fmall whales, called crefpeis, which might be
taken in fuch part of Scotchwalir (the firth of Forth) where the church flood ; and the
oil eJitraQed from them was to be applied t ) its ufe.

The remains of the abby are confiderable, and evince its form t fplendour. The
window of the room near the gateway, called Frater-hall, is very beautiful. The ab-
bot's houle is adjacent. In i.^Oj, Edward 1. burat down the wht)le abby, excepting
the church and cells, pleading in excufe of his facrilege, that it gave a retreat to his
enemies. In plain words, becaufe the gallant nobility of the country fometimes held
their affemblies here to free themlelves from an Englilh yoke.

Part of the church is at prefent "n ufe. It is fupportetl by three ro.vs of mafTy
pillars, fcarcely feventeen feet high, and thirteen and a half in circu:.,ference. Two
are ribbed fpirally, and two marked with xig-zag lines, like th)fe of Durham, which
they refemblc. The arches are alfo Saxon, or round. As the church was built by
Malcolm C-nmor, at the inilancc of Turgot, bifhop of St. Andrew's (once prior of
Durham) that might be the reafon .{ wa,s conllrucled in a fimilar ftylef. From this
time the celebrated Jona loll the honour of being the cemetery of the Scottifh monarchs.
Malcolm and his queen, and fix other kings § lie here ; the two firll apart, the others
under as many flat 'Lones each nine feet long.

In the church is the tomb of Robert Pitcairn, abbot, or rather commendator of
Dumfermline, fecretary of llate in the beginning of the reign of James VI. in the re-
gency of Lenox. He was of Morton's ladion, and was fent to the court of Eliza-
beth, to folicit the delivery of Mary Stuart into the hands of the King's party ||. He
attended James in his confinement, after the Raid of Ruthven, and artfully endea-
voured to make friends v/iih each fide ; but, failing, was imprifoned in Lochlevencadle,
and died in 1^84 His epitaph fets his virtues in a very high light :

Ilic ClU9 tft hfroi mndica Robfrtiis in iirna

Pltcarnii.i, j-a.riic f|n« colnm !i(|iie fii* :
Q_ii£m virtus, ijravius j^ciifrnfo pccttore dignl

C riiftbaiit vtia rt cuin pitiatc ti'K's
Pi. ft viiritu viix fluchit j^^cn mole rrlift*

Corporib, elylium prrgii In uihbra nciniu.

Sepfcmhcr 16 Leave Dumfermline. At a Jiftance is pointed out to mo a tumulus,
planted with trees, cal'e-' the penitent-mount, frjm a vulvar notion, that it w.is formed
by facks full of fand, brought there fr,-,rn dillant places by the frail, by way of p:nance
for thtir fins At Clune am fl'-uck with the magnificence of the profpecl, exieiuling
weft to Benlomond, and eaft o Old-Cambus ; a view of the whole Forth, and the
callles of Ediiiburgh ar ' Stirling, two mofl capital objects.

• Keith. n6. t Keiili's App<-iuliK. \ Bocihiiis lib. xii p. 163.

I Ei'u r, Alrxanrltrr I , D^tvid L, Malcolm IV., Alexander (! , and Rob.it L'rucc.
I MclvU'i Mcmuirt, i 1 a.

DefccnJ

PENNANT S SECCND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

459

Befcenti towards the fhore ; and near it, reach the Lime-kilns, belonging to the Earl
of Elgin, the greutelt perhaps in the univerfe ; placed amidft inexhaullible beds of lime-
ftones, and near imtneiife feanis of coal. The kilns are placed in a rovy ; their open-
ings arc beneath a covered way, formed by arches and pillars in front, into a magnifi.
cent colonade. They lie beneath the (Irata of liine-ftome, which, when broken, is con.
veyed into them by variety of rail roads; and for fliipping the lime, either bur:it or
crude, is a convenient pier. A hundred r.nd twenty men are conflantly employed, and
a little town built for thorn. Abov(; t.velve thoufand pounds has been expended on
this ufeful projcd, which proniifes to vurn out ss much to the emolument of the noble
family, which lo generoufly engaged in it. as to the whole caflern coalt of North Britain,
which either wants ihis great fertilizer, oi' fuel to burn the ftone they ufelelsly polfels.

By the following account it is pleafing to obferve the improving (late of agriculture,
and of building, in thefe parts of the kingdom j for the laft alio occafions a confider-
able confu uption :

Sold, from Martinmas, 1770^,10 ditto, 177 1.

57515 bolls o^ lime fhells, or unflaked lime,

2852! chaldcrs of lime, . . - -

J7814 carts of Hme-(l one, - - . -

From Martinmas, 1771, to ditto, 1772,

65341 bolls of lime-ftiells •,

2271 chalders of lime,
520CO carts of lime-ftone,

■f.

2335

9-4

1 1

864

3874

33^°

1250

it|

4630

1 1

Oppofite to the Lime-kilns, on a rock projecting into the Forth, is Blacknefs cadle,
once a place of great importance in preferving a communication between Edinburgh and
Sterling ; now a (helter to a few invalids. This fortrefs is a large pile, defended by
towers, both fquare and round. Irvine f fays, that in his time it was a (late prifon : he
adds, that it was of old one of the Roman forts, and that it ftood on the beginning of
the wall. But Mr. Gordon feems, with more truth, to place its commencement at
Ciairn, or Caridden, weft of this place. Blacknefs was once the port of Linlithgow,
had a town near it, and a cullom-houfe ; both which were loft by the new commerce of
fait and coals that rofe at Burrowftonefs.

Alter a ride of four miles enter a portion of Perthihire, which juft touches on the
Firh, at Culrofs ; a linall town, remarkable for a magnificent houfe with thirteen
windows in front, built about the 1590, by Edward Lord Kinlofs, father to .he Lord
Bruce, fiaiu in the noted duel between him anu Sir Edward Sackville.

Some poor remains of the Ciftercian abbey are (till to be i^Qn here, founded by Mal-
colm, Earl of Fiie, ir, 'xj. The church was jointly dedicated to the virgin, and St.
Serf, cujifelFor. The revenue, at the dilTolution, was feven hundred and fixty-eig'jt

* A bull i« four butheli, of Hbuut feventcen F.ngliih gallons cAcb.

3 N a

t Nomendatura, p. 23.

pounds

(||!t

( t.

ji;
•I

.i^o

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTI..\NB>.

pounds Scots, bcfidc'S tlie ronts paid in ls.ipd. The number of nionkn, cxcliifivc of the
abbot, were niui*.

('ontinue !ny ride, in fiulit of vafl plantations ; and, iA a Hiort rp;ice, enter the little
fhiro of Clackmannan, ulii:h, wiih diat of Kinrofs, altern >t.lv elect a incmber, thtir
mutual reprefenrative. 'I'hj final! town of Clackmannan is pleatantir feati'd on a hill,
along the feat of the chief of the Braces, Hopin;^ (n every fuie ; and on ihe fuminit is
the caftle, commaudiiUT ;i noble view. The la'-,i^e fq lare tow.-r is called after the ntimo
of Roheit Bruce ; whole ^Teat fword and calipie is ilill prefervcd here. The hill is
prettily wooded, aiul, witli the tower, fcjrms a picfurefque obj.'d. On the v/eltern lidc,
crofs the little river D.vau, ami, after a mil.*,' ride, reach the town of Alkv,',, remark-
able for its coal trade. ScolL-nd exports annually, above a hundred and eighteen thou-
fand tons of coal, out of which, I was informxl, Alloa alone fends forty thoufand.
The town and parilh is very populous, containing five ihoufand fouls. I found here
the n>oll polite reception from iVlr Krikine, repr -leniative of the family of Mar,' who
lives in thu caille, now moderni/.ed, on one lide of the toan. ihe jjardens planted ia
the old ftyl', are very extenfive. In the houfe are foniepond portraits, panicvdarly one
of the celebrated Lucy, Countefs of Bedhjrd *, a full leuj^th, in black, with a ruff, and
a coronet on her head. She fits with a pcnfivc countenance, her face reclined on one
hand, and is, without bcauly, an elegant figure. She v.as filler to John Lord Harring-
ton, and wife to Edward l'"arl of Bedford, and became, on the. hath of her brother,
pofleffed of great part of his l".rge fortune. She alVected ilie patronage of wits and
■ ets ; and probably pofleifed pi '^. of the qualities they .iitributed to her, or the philo-
lopliic Sir William 'IVinple i would never have coiuiffcended to celebrate her fine
taile ia gardenin ;. She miglit purchale every perfeclion from the former y for
Uonne informs us,

SIic rji:icJ upon liini lur fv^-cet lliowrri of gold j::

on Ben Johnfon, haunchis of vcnifoa § ; and they, in gratitude, beflowed on her aa
many beauties and as many virtues as ou^ht to liave put vaiiity herfclf out of counte-
nance. She makes the rough Donne declare,

Leaving; Uiat Ijiuie ptMiCc am! all .ijjpcale.
To higl.ci couits, Icnfi's dtcitc iitiiic
TIk' mi;ic, till' miignziiic, the O'lmnuiiiwcale,
Tbo tloty I'f btauty, in 'i'witk'iarn is, arnl von.

Who liaili ucn on,', \voii!J b >tli,Hs who liuj Lin

li. i'aradil'e, would fitk tlic Clicrubiii jl.

Tn a word, her id^ay became too fubllrne lor domeflic alTairs ; Hie fpent her own and
part of her liufband's great fortunes, and iiaving eltablilhed her character for tafte, de.
parted this life in the year 162'!.

Catherine, daughter and heirefs of Francis Karl of Rutland, wife of George Villars,
Duke of Buckinpjiain, by V^inifyrk. She is painted littin.j with her children, and
the head of the duke in an oval above her. 8h • afterwards married the Earl of An-
trim. " Slie was a lady'*, fays the noble liidoria , " of great wit and fpirit ; who, by
her influence over Chailes I., forced him, uiule. pretence of his majefly's fcrvicc, to
gratify her vanity, by creating her hulband a marquis •[."

A remarkal le halt length of Mary Stuart, on copper, in a gauze cloak, crown oa
her head, and paffion flower in her hand ; fiekly and pale.

• Painteii by Cornelius J, infer, in if^jo, in the ^!-"tli jim- of lur aj;e.

X Ad 'inotcd by Ml". Granger. ^ lipigiam «5th. ^ I'l^mt, [>. Si, f!

I Gni(l<n<) of F!plciirii«.
, Hill, of Rebellion, ii. .j74.

A head

PJ?N:^ANT's second tour in SCOTLANDi

46 (

A head of Anne of Do-nmark. A princefs of fo fpotlofs a life, that malice could not
find u bl mil1i in hor ; therefore \v« II mi^^ht 'Wilfon * fuy, oh lier monument a charac-
tt;r i-f virtue may he engraven. When heaven claims her, a livin;^ qusen cannot efcape
the fame epitaph.

SoptemhvT 17. Tlic CXhil hills hcp;in bryond Alloa to approach very near to the
Fnrfli, between which is a narrow arable tract, well cultivated and adorned with wooiIh.
lu thefe hills was found, in th • be^qinning of this century, a larij;o body of native filver,
beauiiftdly ramifu-il ; and of late years, fome cobaJt ore. The view of Stirlin;^-, and the
windiiv^s of the Forth, new a river, are extremely elegant. Am now again in a por-
tion of l\rth(hire. Turn halfa mile out of liie road, to vifit the ancient abby of

Caiubus-Kinncth, or rather its remains, nothin;; being left by the rude hand of re-
forniation, excepting a vait fquare tower, and an arched door way, between which is a
fmc view of Stirling, on its doping rock. 1 his lioule was founded by David 1. in i 147,
for canons-regular of St. Augufhne, brought from Aroil'e near Arras ; but ihe fupcriovs
Were often called abbots of Stirling. Keith fays, that it now belongs to Cowan's hof-
pital, in that town. James III. and his queen wore biu-ied in this place.

After a iTiort ride, reach the bridge of Sterling ; a little hi^jher up the river, flood
the wooden bridge, celebi-ated for the defeat of the I'lnglilh in 1 297, by Wallace. 'I he
Engtiih were commanded by Earl Warren ; who, aeaind his jiKi'.anei;t, at the infliga-
tion of Hugh de Creflingham, treafurer of Scotland, and a cier^-yman, crolVed t!ie
bridge, and was defeated with horrible (laughter, before the army could be formed on
the oppofite fide. Creflingliam was flain. So deteiled was be by the Scots, that ihey
flayed hij, body, and cut his lldn into a thoufand pieces, by way of infult on his pride
and avarice. The F.nglifh, on their retreat, burnt the bridge, abandoned their bag^^;age,
and fled to Rerwiok 1".

Enter Sterling, a town, fays Boctbius, which gave name to fterling monev, becaufe
Oibert, a Saxon prince, after the (n'erthrow of the Scots, eflablidicd here a mint |. It
was alio anciently called Striveling ; as is faid, i'rom the frequency of llrifes or conilicls
m the neighbourhood : and from this old name the prefent I'eetns to have been formed.
The town contains about four thoul'and inhabitants ; has a manuflifture of tartanes
and Ihalloons, an«l employs about thirty looms in that of carpeu. The great llreet is
very broad ; in it is the tolbooth^ where is k' pt the {fanJard forth? wet meafures of
Seotlaiid. The other ftreets narrow and irregular j the well: fide had been defended
by a wall.

■ I cam;ot trace the founi!a:ion of the caftle : if we may credit Boethiu?, it was a place
of Ihvngth in the middle if the niiuli century. 'Ihe Romaiis had a camp and a mili-
tary way nn the well fide : it migiit be their Alauna, but clouds and darknefs rell on
this part of our hillorv.

Sterling is a miniature rofemblante of Edinburgh, built on :\ rock of the fame fcrrii
viih that on which the capital of Ncrth-Britain is placed, witti a flcng furtrcfs on the
fuinniit.

l he caQIc is of great flrength, impending ever a fleep precipice. Within fide ftands
the palace, built by James V. a prince that had a flrong turn to the arts, as appears by
his buildini^s here anti at Falkland. This pile is hu-ge, of a fquare form, orr.ainented
on thr"e fides with pillars, relling on grotefquc figures, jutting trom the wall. On the
*op of each pillar, a fanciful ilatuc.

• Life i>f (anus I
I l.iS. x. \>. -04,

8 Two

179, f Annals of ScotlnnJ, 2^2.

btoliiig money is dtiivcJ Irom llic nitrtliaiitii 0( die Eiiftciiiig;; •" Coeil.ins is

461

pennant's SUCOND tour in 8C0TJ.AND.

Two rooms, called the Queen's and the nurfory, arc large ; the roofs of wood, di.
vided into fquares and other forms, wtll carved.

A clofot is lliewn, noted for the murder of William Eurl of Douglas, in 1452, trc-
pnimed here by a f.'fe condud from J.iincs M. 'Ihis nobleman, too jHJteiit tor legal
execution, had entered info allociailons injurious to his prince ; wlio coiimianiied liim to
rcfcind the oflVnfive alliance ; and, on rcfufd, (labb.'d the earl with his own hand. In
jcvonge, the friends of Douglas iuilaiitly burnt the town.

'J he parliament-houfe is a vaft room, a hundred and twenty feet long, with a timbered
roof. This town, during the reigns of Mary and James \ I , was much frtquented by
the court and the nobility. In September, 1 S71, a bloody attempt was made here by
the queen's party, on the Regent Lenox ; who was furprizv^d at midnight, furroundcd
by his friends, and hi full fecurity. F.xcipt the Earl of Morton, none of the numerous
nobility made the lead refillance, bur funcndered themfeives quietly to the enemy,
Morton defended his houle till it was all in flames. '1 his gave the townfmen time to
rccolleft their courage ; they in turn atacked the alfailants, who, (truck with a panick,
gave themfeives up to th. ir own prifoners. But the unfortunate Lenox fell a vidim ti»
the manes of the archbifhop of St. Andrew's. Sir David Spence, to whom he had
furrendered, periflied in the attempt to fave him, being fliot by tl:e bullet that flew his
noble captive.

From the top of the caflle is by far the finefl view in Scotland : to the eafl is a vail
plain, rich in com, adorned with woods, and watered with the river Forth, whofe mean-
ders are, betore it reaches the fea, to frequent and fo large, as to form a multitude of
moil beautiful peninfulas ; for in many parts the windings approximate fo clofe as to
leave only a little illhmus of a few yards. In !his plain is an old abbey, a view of Alloa
Clackmannan, Falkirk, the firth of Foriii, anJ the country as (at as Edinburgh ; on
the north, lie the (Jchil hili.s and the moor where the battle of Dumblain was fought ;
to the weft, the ftrath of Menteith, as fertile as the eaftern plain, and terminated by
the Highland mountains ; among which the fummit of Ben-lomond is very con*
fpicuous.

Among the houfcs of the nobility, the moft fuperb wa'^ that of the Karl of Mir, be.
gun by the regent, but never finilhed ; the front is ornamented with the arms of the
tamiiy, and much fculpture. It i.s laid to have b^en built from tne ruins of Cambus-
kenncth, and that being reproached with the facrilege, diredcd thefe words, vet extant,
to be put over the gate :

FITpy. fpfik. Fiirth I. cair notht.
Ciinlidir. wtil I cair iiuilit.

Near the caflle are F.dmonrton's walls, cut through a little wood, on the vafi fteeps.
Nature hath firangcly buttn Ifed it up with Hones of imnK-nfe fize, wedged between
each other with more of the fame kin i piled on their tops. Ikiirath, on the flat, are to
be feen the veftiges of the gardens belonging to the palace, call d the king's knot;
vhero, according to the tafte of the times, the flowers had been diipofed in beds and
curious knots, at this time very eafdy to be traced in ihe fantallic form of the turf.

Above thefe wa'ks is the Ladies-hlll ; for here fat the fair to lei' ihtir faithful knights
exert their vigour and aJdrefs in the tilts and tournametas, p»rfonned in a hollow be-
tween this fpot and the caflle.

The church or royal chapel was collegiate, founded by pope Alexander VI. at the re-
queft of James IV, • for a dean, fubdean, faciiftan, chanter, trcafurcr, chancellor, arcli-

• Ktlth, i8j.

dean,

PEKNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND. 46^

dean, fixtcen chaplains, and fix finging-boys, which, with the chaplains and amufic-
mafler, were appoInt''d by the king. The queen's confeffor was the dean, who had
epifcopal jiirifdidinn. Tlie wholemofl richly endowed.

The Carmelites had a houfe iie'e, loundi-'U by James IV. in 1494. Remorfe for his
father's death feeius to have iiiltlLated him to attempt thefc pious atonements. To
this nl ice he was wont to retire from all wordly affairs, and to perform the duties of
reli,. ' A.' with all the au-leritiis of the devoted inhabitants.

Bt ath the walls .vas another, of Dominicans, cflabliflied in 1233, by Alexander II.
In this church was iiiLerred, an impoftor, who. at the indigationof the Countefs of Ox-
ford, affumed the chariifter of Richard II. After his retreat, he found here an honour-
able fupport to the day of his death *.

The hofpital for decayed merchants, founded by John Cowan, a merchant of this
town, is very richly eiuiowed. Here is another, founded by Robert Spittal, taylor to
James IV. for thi. relief -nt oidy of merchants but decayed tradcfmen.

This place has experuiiccd its fiegcs, and other calamities of war. In 1 175 it was
delivered, by William to the Englifli, (with fjveral other places) as a fecurity for his
acknowlcdgemen\ that he held the crown of Scotland from the kings of England.
An ingloriouo cei..on, extorted by his unfortunate captivity. But Richard I. the fuc-
ceeding monarch, ref^ored themf-

During the wars l .'tween the Englifli and Brucean Scots, it often changed marters.
In 1299 it was in poffeffion of Edward I. whofe affairs in Scotland were at that time fo
bad, that he was obliged to fend his governor an order to furrender. But the year
following, he retook it, after a mod gallant defence by William Oliphant, who gave it
upon terms ill obferved by the conqueror.

In 1303, it was again taken by the Scots, under Lord John Sowles : Oliphant re-
fumed the command, and in the next year fuftained a fecond ficge. It was battered
mofl furioufly by the artillery of the age, which call Hones of two hundred weight
againfl the walls, am! made vafl breaches. At length, when the garrifon was reduced
to a very few, the brave governor fubmittcd and was received into mercy.

In the reign of Edward II. it was befieged by Sir Edward Bruce. The governor.
Sir Philip Mowbray, made a valiant defence ; but, in confequence of the battle of Ban-
Rocbourne, was redu''d to yield to the vidorious army. During the wars of Edward
III. it was reciprocal..- laken and re taken ; the laft time in 1341. The other great
events of this place !).;>.■> flipped my memory. I mufl make a long flride to its memor-
able fiege in the wii! er of 1746, when the gallant old officer. General Blakeney, baf-
fled all the efforts ot the rebels to reduce this important place.

In ihe evening, pafs through the fmall town of St. Ninian, and the village of Ban-
nocbounie.

Afcend a hill, and pafs by the reliques of Torwood, noted for having given fhelter
to Walbce, after th fatal battle of Falkirk. Some remains of an oak, beneath which
the hero is laid to have repofed, is dill pointed out with great veneration. Over this
place paffes the Ron.^n military road, which I traced before to the north of Dupplin,
At fome diUancf? from this, leave, in a valley on the left, the two mounts, called Duni-
pace, placed on the north bank of the Carron, Car-avon, or the winding river. Night
clofed on me before I reached this place, h 1 mull fpeak by quotation from an inge-
nii;us tffay on the an. Equities of Sterlingffiire, publilhed in the Edinburgh magazine.
'I he one, fays the iiutlior, is ptrfedly round and above fifty feet high. J he other,
which hofeems unwilling to admit to be the work of art, is of an irregular form, and
• Kei:b, 271. t Majoi, lib. iv. c. 5 p. 135, ij6.

6 compofed

e I!

hit

i'l r I

I'l

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/VIJ4

IM-NNANT's SliCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAKIU

comnofcd of gravtl. Mi- Gordon cpajeilurw them to have been c>.pl'.ir..if>!\ mout t ,
the writer of tfii* cfl.iy, tliat they weie I'epulchial. 'llie h\il fectns hell J'oiiUiioJ, loi, it
I recoil .c'''-, t!;e tops of ovp'oratory iiills are tninciited or flat.

'lo the!\oilh-i>all oi ii '•, (mi ll'.o lame fule ol Jio river, at the iliflance of a few miles,
ftooil the celebrated antiquity call- «i Arthur's oven, wliicli Mr. f' r.ioii fiippofis to ilave
bi'eii alacclhr-,, orliltli chapel, a lepofitory lor ilic lioir.aii ii.' 'a or ll--uu!ai\ls.

'I [lis biuKi"!}; was circiihir, \iprij;ht on llie ful-s, auJ loundeJ to\\aril>s iho top, iii
wliicli was an optnin}; eltven feel fix inclies in diatnei t. lirneat'i this was on one flJv;
a 'qiiai'r aperture, like a uindo\f ; under that a door, wf'ole top i. /iiied a Ron an aieli.
i lie lKi.;l:t to the round oponin^i!; at the top was twemy-iwo fei'l ; l!ie inner diameter
of ihe InriJingat the bottom, niiietten !• et fix inehes ; round the intide, l^iJ-ihius in-
fornib us, were flonc fe:»ts ; and on the fouth fide an all; r. 1 h ».!lo ,u (piaii'ils lis that tin*
flour was leliellated, ;»s appeared by the Iragnu nts that in, lu be picked up in his time*.
lie adds, that there were on fonic of the ilones the feulptuic o( ea_;les. siearly drfaeecl
by a;;c; and that there had been an infcripiion on a poiiihed ilone, lijruiiying rliat tb:*
builoinv^ was cre>:led bv Vc!palian, in honour of the enij)iror C'.laiulii.is, and the podde;s
X'ictory. 'i'his he fpeaks by tradition ; for our Kdward, coiapirror of Se4nland, is
ch-rgod with can vii;g it away with him. All the old hillori.ms that take notice ol tins
(difue a^^ree that it was the work iif the Uonians, fVom the liriiilh Nennius to the
Scotch Berhanan. l!ow far that may be allowed will be a (uturc coniidera'.iuii : at
j'relent I fliall only, in oppolition to Mr. Moitlanil, alilrt v. hat it was not, a inau'oleuiii
refenibliii;.; th.e 1( judehre of Metellai, wdiich is a round tcAver, totally open at top. A
more apt eoniparilun might be found in the Calidarium of the baths of Dioclehan |,
whole vaulted nmf, reunded, and with a central aperture, agrees wall thai of the de-
plored Scottifh antiquity.

L ■aveai a hnallddlaiicc on the left Camelon, the fiteof a Roman towji, whofe flreets
and walls might he tvnred in the midll of the ruins in the time of IJuchanan § ; but, as
1 was informed, im' .. "elique is to be feen at prellnt worthy of a vilit. 'The fea once
flowed up lothi ■; -ui, if the report i)e true, that fragnieiits of anchors have been found
near it ; and licds -' ! vfter-flielis in various places, at :his time remote from the Forth,
which is kept cu^iKn'ied from overflowing the flat tiacl In many j) rts between this
place and Borrowltosufs. Buchanan luppofes tliis town to liave been me Caer guidi of
the venerable Bcde || ; but as that w liter exprefsly fays, that it lay in the middle of the
I'orth, it was probably a lortrcfs on Inch-Keitii, as Iiis Alcluith is another on the firth
of Cdyde.

Lie at Falkirk, a la'-ge ill-built town, fupported by the great fairs for black cattle
from the Highlands, it being computed that 24,000 head are annually fold her-.

Carron wharf lies wpovi the river, which falls a few miles below into the F' ;ih, and
is not only ufeful to the great iron works ereded near it, but of great fervice even to
Glafgow, confiderable quaiuilies of gcods deflined for that city b -ing laiuled here. 'I'iie
canal, which is to form a communication between this firth and that of ("dyde, begins
on the fouih fide of the mouth of the Carrun. lis courfe will be above thirty miles,
afllllcd by ihirty-nine locks. Its wefiern termination is to be at Dalnuiir-buirn-foot,
eight milt s below Glafgow ; but, for the convenienev of that city, it is jn-opofed to Ibrni
another branch fnjiii the great trunk, at a place called the Stocking-blcachfield, be-
tween two and throe miles diltant from the city.

• Lib. iii. p. ■i4. t Aiio'cliita di Roma dcU' abate Veiuiti, torn. ii. p. y. tab. 67.

+ Idem, lorn. i. p 93. tab. 32. $ Lib. i. c. 21, iv. c 36. [] Hid. Ewtltf. lib. i. c. 12.

Sept,

rKNNANT*« SECOND ' iVVL IN SCOILAND.

465

jti cafe tlicy were no ^i
I laplcii ' >m the vmv ih
th(? legato of Ante. .;,
ends at Cacridtien, tv • .
to Mr. Gordon, in lengti
dcfuiid^'d, I think, by twc

Sept. 18. Near Cuiiendrir houfe at a finall ilJft.mce cafl ftoin I''a,kii-k, arc fomo lar^e
remains of Antoninus' wall, or, as it is c 'Kil li re, Graham's dike, from tile notion that
o eCir.iliani, or (iiiniub*, f'lril niado a l)t\,tuh in if, foon after I'e iv ircat of ilie Rotnans
ovit of Ikiiain, This va(t work was clfcdVjd bv L illiiis Urbicu, , governor of li.itaiii,
during the itign of Antoninus Pius, as appeal;, by inlcriptians iTund on ll mk's Jifco-
vcred among the ruins of tha chain of forts that defended it. Mu:t. of tluni are in ho.
nour of the emperor ; one onl mentions the lieutenant f. 'f he wall itfcif was of turf,
which in this place wa,, fortv feet or ;ad, and the difjli thiricen feet deep. Loliiua, after
defeating the IJritons, and rccov ting the country, which was, as Tacitus I cxpreiles it,
*• loll ai> foon as won," rellored i the empire ihe boundary l.'ft 1 y Agricola, and re-
moved the bai jrians to a greater dill.ince^. It is probable that .,ullius might either
place his forts on the ^ lite with thofe built by Agricola, 01 make ufe of ^he fame

but the firfl is n.ort probable, as <ilt^-fiv ,•' had
)b. left the ifland, to the re-conqueft of fl c ■: [)a;\." by
^ wall begins near Kirk-P.'.trick, on the firt' ;* \ '.ly !•■, and
•II of Abc'corn, on th< lirth of Forth, being, according
-fix miles, eight hundred and cighty-feven pace;;, and
■ uot thirteen forts. It is piobable that the Romans did
not keep p )irei';lon even of this wall for any length of time ; for there are no iafcrip-
tions but in honour of that fingle empcnir.

Continue our journey over a naked and barren country. Leave on the right the
nunnery of RLmwel, founded by Malcolm IV. in 1 156. The reclufes were of the Cif-
tercian order. Crofs the water of Avon, and enter the (hire of Linlithgow, and foon
after have a beautiful view of the town, the caftle, and the lake. This is fuppofed to be
the Lindum of Ptolemy, and to take its nanu' from its filuation on a lake, or lin, or llyn,
which the word iin or llyn figniiies.

The town contains between three and four thoufand fouls, and carries on a conft-
dcrable trade in drefling of white leather, which is fent abroad to be manufadurod. It
alio employs many hands in drelling of flax, and in wool-combing ; for the laft, the
wool is brought from the borders. Its port was formerly Blacknefs, but finco the do.
cline of that place, Burrowftoncfs, about two miles diftant from Linlithgow.

The caflle was founded by Edward L who refided in it for a whole winter ; but in
1307 we find that icwas taken and demolilhed by one Binny, a Scot.fman. In th'»
reign of Edward III. the Engliih poHcflied it again ; for there is extant an order for tho
cudody of the hofpital to John Swanlund ||.

1 cannot dilcover by whom it was re^built. It is at prefent a magnificent edifice, of
a f4aarc form, finely featcd above the lake. James V. and VI. ornamented it greatly.
Theinfide is much embelliflicd with fculpture : over an inner gate are nichcr;, in former
times holding the ftatues of a pope and a cardinal ; ere£ted, as tradition fays, by James V.
in Compliment to his holinefs for a prefent of a confecrated fword and helmet ^. On
an outward gate, detached from the building, are the four orders of kniglithood, which
his Majefty bore, the garter, thiftle,holy-gholl, and golden-fleece.

Within the palace is a handfome Iquare : one fide is more modern than the others,
having been built by James VI., and kejpt in good repair till 1746, when it was acci-

• Bo{thin>

f Horfley, Scotland, tab. viii. Sec alfo my firfl volume, where fome of the infcriptions are mentioned.

% Hift. iib i. c 2. I Ca^ itolii^us. |J Calendar of Charters, by Sir Jof. Ayioffe, 162.

I Ltrflxi, Hift. Scot. 353.

11 'IT

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33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTEK.N.Y. 14580

(716) S72-4503

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466

PEKi^ANT's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

dentally burnt by the King's forces. The pediments over the windows are neatly carved,
and dated 1619.

The othiT fides are more ancient : in one is a room ninety-five ft>et long, thirty feet
fix inches wide, and thirty-three high. Ai one end is a gallery, with three arches, per-
haps for mufic. Narrow galleries run quite round the old part, to preferve conunu-
nications with the rooms ; in one of which the unfortunate Mary Stuart firfl lc\w light.
Her f.iiher, James V., then dying, foretold the miferies that impended over her and the
kingdom. " It came," faid he, " with a lafs, and will be loll with one."

The chapel was built by James V., and takes up one fide of the fquare. The kitchen
for the ufe of the kings and queens is below ground. I heard here of a letter from
James VI. to borrow fome filver fpoons for a fead ; and of another to borrow from the
Farl of Mar a pair of filk ftockings, to appear in before the Englilh ambalfador.
Though I cannot authenticate thefe relations of the fimplicity of the times ; yet I have
n curious letter from the fame monarch, to borrow a thoufand marks, in the year 15:<9,
being that of his wedding, telling the lender (Ji-.hn Boifrt/ell, of Balmato), " Ye will
rather hurt your fclf veiry far, than fee the difhounour of your prince and native coun-
try with the povertie of baith fct downe before the face of llrangers."

The church would be a handfome building, if not difgraced with a moft ruinous
floor. I was lliewn the place remarkable for the perfonated apparition that appeared
to James IV., while he was meditating the fatal expedition into England ; and which^
as honcft Lindfay relates, as foon as it had delivered its meffage, " vanifhed like a
blink of the fun, or a whip of a whirlwind." The tale is told with wonderful finipli-
city, and would be fpoiled in the abridgment: " Tiie king (fays tiie hiftorian*)
came to Lithgow, where he happened to be at the time for the council, very fad and
dolorous, making his devotion to God to fend him good chance and fortune in His
voyage. In this mean time there came a man clad in a blue gawn in at the kirk-door,
and belted about him in a roll of linen-cloth ; a pair of botrikins on his feet, to the great
of his legs, with all other hofe and clofe conform thereto ; but he had no thing on his
head, but fyde red yellow hair behind, and on his haflits, which wan down to his flioul-
ders ; but his foreherd was bald and bare. He feemed to be a man of two and fifty
years, with a great pyke-fiaff in his hand, and came firft forward among the lords, cry-
ing and fpeiring for the King, faying, he defired to fpeak with him. While at the h(i
he came where the King was fitting in the delk at his prayers ; but when he faw the
King, he made him little reverence or falutation, but leaned down groflings on the deik
btfore him, and faid to him in this manner, as after follows: ' Sir King, my mother
hath fent me to you, defiring you not to pals at this time where thou art purpofed ; for"
if thou does, thou wilt not fare well in thy journey, nor none that pafleth with th?e.
Further, fhe bade thee mell with no woman, nor ufe their counfel, nor let them touch
rhy body, nor thou theirs ; for if thou do it, thou wilt be confounded and brought to
fh^me.' "

In one of the fireets is fhewn the gallery from whence Hamilton, of Bothwel-haugh,
in 1 570, with a blamelcfs revenge fliot the regent Murray. Hamilton had embraced
the party of his royal miftrefs, Mary Stuart, The regent bellowed part of his efiate
on one of his favourites, who, in a winter's night, feized on his houfe, and turned his
wife naked into the open fields f, v/here before morning (lie became furioufly mad.
Love and party rage co-operated fo ftrongly, that he n^ver refted till he executed
hispurpofe. He followed the regeni from place to place, till the opportunity of allow

• P. 111.

t Roberlfon, i. 511.

march

PENNANTS SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.,

4'57

march through a crowded ftreet rendered his intent fiiccofsful. Ite H^d to France, ant!
being there folicited to deftroy the admiral Collgni, he Replied, with a generous rei'eru-
ment, "That notwithflanding his injured afFedion compelled him to commit one mur.
dcr, nothing (hould induce him to proftitute his fword in bafe affaffination."

Proceed along Strathbrock, watered by the Almond. To the right are Bnthgate
hills, once noted for mines of lead-ore, fo rich as to be deemed filvcr mines. Dine at
Kirklifton bridge; near this place in 1298 Edward I. encamped, jurt before the butlle
of Falkirk. He had beftowed among his foldiers a donative of wine, a fuJden and na-
tional quarrel arofe between his ErjgliOi and Welfh troops : the lalt wrecked their re-
venge on the clergy, and flew eighteen Englifh ecclefiaflics. The Englifli horfe made
great flaughter among my countrymen, who in difguft feparated thomielves from the
army*. Edward had not fewer than fifteen thoufand Welflimen, which he drew from
his new conquefts with the defign of oppofmg them to the Highlanders f. About a
mile farther, after crofling the Almond, enter the fliire of Edinburgh. ,

This river runs into the Forth, about four miles from this place. On the caftern
bank of its influx is the village of Cramond, once a Roman ftation and port. Many
medals, infcriptions, and other antiquities |, have been difcovered here. Mr. Gordon
fays there is one, and Mr. Maitland that there are three Roman roads leading to it j
but my time would not permit me to vifit the place.

On the right hand, at a fmall diftance from our road, are fome ruJe ftones. On one,
called the Catftean, a compound of Celtic and Saxon, fignifying the ftone of battle, is
this infcription : *' In hoc tumulo Jacet veta F. vitti," fuppofed in memory of a perfon
ilain here.

Vifit, on the road fide, Corftorphine, a collegiate church, in which are two monu-
ments of the Forefters, ancient owners of the place, each recumbent. One preferves
the memory of Sir John Forefter, who made the church collegiate in 1429, and fixed
here a provoft, five prebendaries, and two finging-boys. Here is alfo an infcription to
the fill provoft, Nicholas Bannochtyne, dated 1470, concluding with a requeft to the
reader to " pray for tho> pope and him." Crofs the water of Leith, at Coltibridge, and
foon arrive" at Edinburgh.

I ftiall here take notice of thofe remarkable places which efcaped my notice in my
former tour, or at leafl: merited a little further mention than I at that time paid them. I
Ihall begin with the caftle that crowns the precipitous fummit of this fingular city.

That fortrefs is of grent antiquity. The ancient Britifli name was Caftell Mynydd
Agned. Our long-loft Arthur, if Nennius § is to be credited, obtained one of his vic-
tories in its neighbourhood. His name is ftill retained in the great rock impending
over the city, literdlly tranflated from the Britifh, Cader, the feat cf Arthur. Maitland,
who gives the moft probable account of the derivation of the name, attributes it to
Edwin, King of Northumberland, who, from the conquefts of his predeceflbrs, was in
pofleflion of all the traft from the Humber to the firth of Forth. Accordingly we find,
in very old writers, that the place was called Edwinlburch, and Edwinfburg [|. It con-
tinued in the hands of the Saxons or EngUfli, from the invafion of 0£i:a and Ebufa, in^
the year 452, till the defeat of Egfrid, King of Northumberland, in 685, by the Pifts,
who then re-poflcflTed themfelves of it. The Saxon Kings of Northumberland recon-
' quered it in the ninth century, and their fucceflbrs retained it till it was given up to
Indulfus, King of Scotland, about the year 956. All the names in this trad are of Saxoa
origin, and the language rtow fpoken is full of old Englifli words and phrafes.

■ AnnaU Scotland, 21:7. f Carte, ii. 264. | Gordon's Itln. 1 16, 117. Hoifcly, p. 704.

. JC.61. II Vide Maitland Hid, Edinburi^h, 6,

302 The

' Hi

•?:Ul

4€i

PENMAN r's SECOND TOUK IN SCOTLAND.-

The caftle is cf great ftrength ; and, as it was for a long time ruppofcd to be imprcg-
rablr, was railed the IVaiJencaflle. Edward I., in i a 6, made hinifclf n^afler of it in
a few days ; but in the reign of his fiicccnbr it was, in i;, 17, furpri^jd and taken by
Thomas Randolph, Earl of Murray. It fell again into the hands of the Englifli, who,
in 134!, lo!t it by a ftratagcm contrived by Sir William Douglns. He entered the har-
bour of I.tith, with a veffel loaden with provifions, and mnnned with about two hundred
Highlanders. He dif<;uirod twelve in the drels of jienfants, and placed the reft in am-
bulh aniidlt the ruins of an a' bey. He led the firll up to the caflle, accompanying
twelve hones laden with oats and fuel : he offered thefe to fale to the porter, who
ti lling him that the garrifon flood in great want of them, let Sir William into the ^jate-
way. They flew the porter, blockaded the gate, by killing their horfes in the midft of
it, and alfembling their other party by found of horn, made themfelves mafters of the
place.

The hero Kirkaldie diflinguidied the year 1573 by a gallant defence of this caflle,
•which he kept, in hopes of niendi-ig the fortunes ofTiis unhappy miftre(s,then impnlbned
in England. For tjiree and thirty days he refifted all the efforts of the Scots and the
tnglifh, excited by courage and emulation. At length, when the walls were battered
«Jown, the wells deftroycd, and the whole rendered a heap of rubbifli, he refolved to
perifh gloriouJly in the latl intrenchment ; but the garrifon, which wanted his heroifm^
or had not the fame reafon for defpair, mutinied, and forced him to furrender •.

In 1650 it fuftained a ficge of above two months againft the parliament army, coiti'
manded by Cromwell, and furrcndered at length on very honourable terms f.

At the Revolution, it was held for fome time by the Duke of Gordon for the abdU
eating prince. When his grace furrendered his charge, he made terms for every 009
under his command ; but, with uncommon fpirit and generofity, fubniitted his own
life and interelts to the mercy of the conqueror J. After the city was pofTefled by the
rebels in 174c, it underwent a fliort and impotent fiege. The royalills, under the
Generals Guell and Prefton, kept quiet pofTeflion of it, after a few weak and unavailing
hoHilities.

Beneath the floor of one of the pafTagcs were interred the remains of William Earl
of Douglas, and his brother. Thefe noble youths (too powerful for fubjeQ«) wsrr^
inveigled here, on the faith of the royal word, and while they were fitting at table w
their prince were feized and hurried to the block. Hillory mentions an uncomn .
circumllance. A bull's head was ferved up, a fignal in thofe days of approaching death.
The Douglafes grew pale at the fight, accepting the omen ^.

In a fmall room in this fortrefs Mary Stuart brought into the world James VI., an
event of which fome uncouth rhymes on the wall inform the flranger.

The regalia of Scotland are faid to be preferved here, and a room in which they arc
kept is pointed out, but made up and inacceflible. According to Maitland, they were
.icicnowlcdged to have been here in 1707, as appears by a formal inllrmnent preferved
by that hiiNjrian.

'J he great cannon called Mons-meg, made of iron bars, bound together with iron
hoop«:, was a curif fity preferved in this fortreCs, till it was tranfported fome years ago
to J.Mudon. It is fiiid to have been brought here from Roxburgh, and that one of the
fame kind proved fatal to James II., by burfting near the royal perfon.

RcibrrtfoiJ, li. 48.

« \V|,;ttlotlc, 485.
$ liiil oi ihe DougUfcs, I J4.

t Hift. C^irdont, ti. 6i6.

The

rxNN ant's second totir in SCOTLANP. 4^st

The city is of far later date than thecaflle. Walfingham, who wrote about the year
1440, fp?aks of it as a mean place, and the houfes covered only with thatch : yetFioifr
fart, who lived prior to the former, fays, it was " la principal fiege du royaume, et aufli
par ufage le Roy d'Ecoce f'y tenoit, (car ij y a bon chaltel, & bonne groffe ville, et beau
heure •.)" But it feems not to have been in any very flouriihing condition till the rtigu
of James I., in whofe laft year ('436) a parliament was firft held here. After thofe
ricetinps were continued, its profperity incre;ifed, and the importance of Perth, before
confiderable, began to Kffen. Till that period, the princes and parliaments of Scotland
thought the firth of Forth a proper fecurity a^ainft the inroads of theEnglifli, who often
carried their depredations as f;ir its this city, and ofcen facked it.

1 fhould mention that, befides the callle, it was alfo guarded by walls and gates. The
firft began near the fouthern bafe of the caftic, and, protetling the town on tho foutli
and eaft, terminated near the North loch, then filled with water, and a fuificient fecurity
on that fide.

'ihe f^atcs are numerous, but none that are now (landing are in any degree remark -
ablo. The Ncthcrbow-port, which flood at the head of the Cannongate ftreet, was
built in the roign of James VI., but is now demolilhed. A figure of it is preferved in
IVkiitliind't. Hillory of Edinburgh ; and a flill finer, but fcarce, etching of il is fometimes
met with, the work of Mr. Alexander Runciinan.

To purfue the dcfcription of Edinburgh, I (hall begin with the great flreet, which,
under fcveral names, is continued ahnod in a line from the caftle to Ilolyrood-houfe,
bfing in length a mile and a half, and in fome places eighty feet wide, and in the part ,
called the Iligh-ftrcet, finely built.

Ill the Itreet called the Caftle-hill is the great refervoir for fupplying the city with'
water. Below this is the lavvu-market, where every Wednefday are fold linens,
checks, &c.

The weighlng-houfe, which brings m a large revenue to the city,.ftands at the Bow-
head, at the upper end of the lawn-market.

Near rhat are the Luckenbooths, with the tolbooth,or city prifon. The guard -houfe
is a little lower. I think the guard confifts in all of feventy-five men, commanded by
the provoft and three lieutenants, who are ftyled captains. The men are well cloathed
and armed. Inftead of the halbert, they dill retain the ancient weapon, the Locha-
ber ax.

In the Parliatnent-clofe, a fmall fquare, is the Parliament-houfe, where the courts of
juftice are held. Beneath are the advocates' library, and the regifter-ofTice. In my
former Totir I mentioned certain curioHties preferved in the library ; but neglefted the
notice of others in a fmall but feleft private cabinet.

Among others in the cabinet of Mr. John Macgowanjdifcovered. near this city, is an
elegant brafs image of a beautiful Naiad, with a little fatyr in one arm; On her head
I.S a wine-vat, or fome fuch ve(rel, to denote her an attendant on Bacchus ; and beneath
one foot, a fubvertcd vafe, cxpre(rive of her character as a nymph of the fountains.
The fatyr is given her, not only to (hew her relation to the jovial god, but from the opi-
nion that the Naiades were mothers t of that fylvan race.

A veffel refombling a teapot, with a handle and fpout: it wants a lid, but the ori-
fice is covered with a fixed plate, full of perforations, like thofe of a watering-pot. .
f'ount Caylus has given, a figure of a pot of this kind ; but is as ignorant as myfeU". of
its ufc.

• FroifTart, lib ii. p. 145.

■\ Monifaucon, from thr authority of Nbnnui.

Antiq. Expl. i. part it. 36 n

Some

: I

::ii: I '4

Hii !

I 'hi

*^^^'«tbmiisSiai^aaat:

^4^ PiiNNAHT'^ &fiCONl> TOUa IN SCOTLAND.

Some fp^arheaJs, arid a brazen celt finely gilt. This cnibellifliraent of the laft in-
timites, that the inltrumcnts of that fort were not for mechanic uI'l^s, but probably the
heads of iavrlin5 or cnfign Itaffs *.

In ths fami? colledion is an iron whip, a mod cruel inflrument of punifhrnent among
the Romans f. The handle is fhort ; the lafli, a chain dividing? into thwe parts, with
a buUot at tho end of each. Thefe bullets wore fomotimes of lead, fomctimes of J cop.
^cr. Whips of this kind are often feen in paintings of martyrdoms. It is Angular,
that the Europeans found among the natives of Uengat this clallical fcourgc, or one
nearly relembling it: the bullets in the Indian chawbuc, or whip, being affixed to
tho!i}:;s inilcad ot chains.

1 he preat church, divided info four places of worfliip j and St. Giles's, with its
tower terminated by a crown ol' llone, built by a Milne, ancedor of a celebrated race
of architecls, grace part ot tlio llreet below the Parliament-clofe.

'1 he Trone church is remarkable for its fine Ionic front.

Here are four chapels for the ufo ot" the protollants of the church of England. The
new one, when completed, will be a mod elegant building, and the front adorned with
a beautiful portico, fupported by fix Doric pillars, with fuitable finilliing. Over tho
rltar is an afcct.fion by Mr. Kunciman, and licre arc befides four other paintings by
the fame gentleman. Th.'fe, wiili a fine organ, are comfortable proofs of the mo-
deration that at prefent reigns in tho church of Scotland, which a few years ago would
have I ookt'd with horror on tlielb innocent decorations, and never have ptrmittcd to
'Others what they did not approve. Perhaps the dil'approbaiion Hill continues; then
how fir more meritorious is this toleration !

At tho bottom of Canon-gate (lands the magnificent palace of Holyrood-houfc, once
>an abby of canons regular of St. Augufline, founded by David I. in 1128, and dedi-
cated to tho holv-crofs. This was the richell of the religious houfes in North Britain,
the annvial revenue, at the Reformation, amounting to two thoufand nine hundred
and twei.ty-fix pounds Scots §, befides numbers of rents in kind. In 1547, it was
almoft ruined by the Regent Duke of Somerfet, who totally uncovered it, and took
away with him the I?ad and bells.

That beautiful piece of Gothic architecture, tho chapel, is now a ruin, the roof
having fallen in. It was fitted up in a mod elegant manner by James VII. At the
end was a throne for the fovcroign, and on the fides twelve flails for the knights com-
panions of the thillle ; but, in 1688, the whole was demoliihed by the fury of the
mob.

In the apartments belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, who is hereditary houfe-
Icoeper, are feveral curious jiortraits. Among them, a full length of a tall youth, with
his hat on a table. It is calle«.l that of Henry Darnley, but, by the countena;ice, I
Ihould rather imagine it to be that of Henry Prince of Wales (j.

A head of Jants IV. in black, with ermine ; the hair lank and fl^ort. From the
great refomldance to Henry Vll. I am tempted to think it the portrait of Janies V.,
who was defcended from the daughter of Henry.

Mary Stuart, aged about fifteen ; a half length, ftraight and Sender ; large brocade
iloev'.s, fmall ruff, liUburn hair.

A head of Cardinal Beaton, black hair, fmooth face, a red callot. An ambitious,
cruel, and licentious prielt ; fo fuperior to decency, that he publicly married one of his

• TiorU'r, A'lti Cornwall 4 Caylin, v!i. 2 i j. J MontLucon, V. part ii. 245.

* A Sc'i'c h pound 11 twenty pence ; a Scotch maik thinrcn prnce.

I Vide Mr. Giaiit'^''* '^•"iJ"P''y'*' 3''- '^'^ «»!'*•

10 fix

pennant's 6EC0NB TOOR IN SCOTLAND.

47 1

\ fix natural children to the maflcr of Crawford, owned her for his daughter, and gave
with her (in thofe days) the vail fortune of four thoufand marks, Scots. ■ » , ;. , •

A ftern half length of John Knox, writing.

Lord John Bclarys, in <i red doublet and ilaihed fleeves, young and handfome ; fon
of Lord Fauconberg. A perfon, lays the noble hillorian, of exemplary induftry and
courage, who raifed fix regiments for the King's fervice, and behaved with great fpirij
in feveral engagements ; at length, being niaje commander in chief of the forces ii^
Yorklhirc, at the battle of S.lby, funk beneath the fuporior fortune of Sir Thomas
Fairfax, and was by him taken prifoner. He received great honours at the Redora-
tiuM, and lived till the year 1689.

A fine old portrait,- a half length in rich armour.

Twenty fmall heads, in black lead, of the family of Hamilton and its allies. Very
neat.

The life of Hercules, in ten fmall pieces, highly finifhed, but with a fliff outline, like
the manner of Albert Durer. In the back ground ave views of Fleinifh houfes, fo
probably thefe were the work of a Fiemifh artilt. Perhaps of John de Mabeufe, who
was In Kngland in the time of Henry VllL The fet is fuppofed to have been part of
the coUedion of Sir Peter Lely *.

Edward Earl of Jorfey, a nobleman in great trufl with King William ; ambafTador to
France, and ficrttary of flute ; in the next reign, lord chamberlain, and appointed lor^l
privy feal on the day of hie death, Auguft 11, 1711.

At Lord Dunmoro's lodgings is a very fine pifture, by Mytens, of Charles I. and his
Queen, going to ride, with the Iky fliowering rofes on them. The Queen is painted
with a love-lock, and with browner hair and complexion, and younger than any of her
portraits 1 have feen. A black ftands by them holding a grey horfe ; and the celebrated
dwarf JtH'cry Ilutllbn attends, holding a fpaniel in a firing. Several other dogs are
fporting around. The little hero in this piece underwent a life of vafl variety. He
was born the fon of a labourer at Oakham, in 1619 ; at the age of fevert he was not
eighteen inches high, at which time he was taken into the family of the Duke of Buck-
ingham, at Burleigh on the hill, and had there the honour of being ferved up to table
in a cold pye, to furprize the court then on a progrefs. On the marriage of Charles
the Firfl, he was promoted to the fervice of Henrietta ; and was even fo far trufled as
to bo fcnt to France to bring over her Majefty's midwife. In his paffage he was taken
by a pirate, and carried into Dunkirk. His captivity gave rife to the Jeoffreidos,, a
poem, by Sir William Davenant, on his duel in that port with a turkey-cock. His
diminutive fize did not prevent his aSing in a military capacity, for, during the ciyil
- wars, he ferved as captain of horfe. In following the fortunes of his miflrefs into
France, he unluckily engaged in a quarrel with Mr. Crofts, who came into the field
. armed only with a fquirt ; a fecond meeting was appointed, on horfeback, when JefFery
killed his antagonifl at the firft fliot. For this he was- expelled the court, which fent him
to fea, when he was again captive to a Turkifh rover, and fold into Barbary. On his
rrleafe he was made a captain in the royal navy ; and on the final retreat of Henrietta,
attended her to France, and remained there till the Refloration. In 1682, this little
creature was made of that importance as to be fuppofed to be concerned in the Popifh
plot, and was committed to the gate-houfe; where he ended his life, at the age, of
fixty-three, pafTed with all the confcquential aftivity of a Lilliputian herof.

, • Walpole's AiiPcd. Painting, J. ;o. ■#

-^ \'i(le VuUcr, Wriglit's Rntlandfhirf, p. loj, and the. more enteruining aceount iu Mr. WalpcJe's
Aiivilotta ol I'uiittini', vol. ii. 10.

The

! 1 1

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;■ ii

i:!:i;il

hi: f -"■

5li

47*

PENNAKT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

• The precinAs of this abby, including the park (next to be mentioned) and a fpace
as far as Du Jdingfton, is dill a place uf refuge to the unfortunate debtor ; and has its
bailey, who keeps courts, and puniflies offenders within his jurifdiftion.

The college, founded by the citizens of Edinburgh, in 1582, in confcquence of a
legacy left in 1558, for that ufeful end, by Robert Reid, bifliop of Cirkney, is a very
inean building. It is built on the fite of the collegiate church of Kirk-of-ficld, for.
tnerly dedicated to St. Mary, and in popiih times fupplied with a provoll and ten prc-
4)ends.

The mufeum is at prcfent totally empty, for fuch has been the negligence of pad
times, that fcarce a fpecimen of the noble colledion dopofrcd in it by Sir Andrew
Balfour, is to be met with, any more than the great additions made to it by Sir Robert
Bibbald.

The ft'flion, as they term It, of the univcrfity of Edinburgh, begins on November r,
and continues fix months. Soon after the commencement a gencr.1l day is appointed
for matriculation, if a form can be fo called, which is annually repeated by each Un-
dent, as long as iw (lays. It was begun in the year 1764, and was looked upon as
'an innovation, intended both to gain a footing for fome authority over the (Indents,
and to raife a fund for the public library. The manner was this : a folemn obligation
(in Latin) to behave well, to refpecl the authority and intereds of the univcrfity, and
•obey its laws (of which they were allowed to be entirely ignorant) was written in a
book, and the (ludents fubfcribed their names underneath in alphabetical order. A
fum, not lefs than half-a-crown, was at the fame time demanded, for the ufe of the
library ; in return for which a ticket was given, entitling the bearer to the ufe of books,
upon dcpofiting their value in money by way of fccurity. I never heard of the lead
cognizance taken of the morals and conduct of any ftudent, though I believe there are
a few inrtances of cxpulfion for very flagitious crimes. Degrees in phyfic ufed to be
•conferred like thofe in divinity and law, at the plcafure of the heads, without any ne-
<eflity of having ftudied either there or at any other univerfity ; but, on the lad in-
flaiice of this kind, in the year 1763, or 64, leveral dudents, piqued at a proceeding
which put on a footing with thcmfclves perfons whom they thought not entitled to
academical honours, mutually engaged nut to take a degree at Edinburgh. The pro.
felfors, alarmed at this refolution, gave an aflurance, that for the future no degree in
phyfic fliould be conferred without at lead two years dudying at the place, and at-
tendance upon all the medical claflTcs. This has been, I believe, rigoroufly adhered to ;
moreover the examinations, previous to conferring the degree, are faid to be very
drift. By a regulation of a later date, degrees are only granted in the fummer, twice a
year, during Uic recefs from bufinefs. The number of medical dudents are now an-
nually reckoned at about three hundred ; a majority of whom, being only defigned for
the lower branches of the profeffion, day but one feflion. Every one is at liberty to
attend ivhat le^ures he chooft>s, and in what order ; except that thofe who mean to
graduate, muft, during thtir day, attend all the truly medical ones. They who have
leifure and means properly to complete their medkal education, feldom day lefs than
three U llions, and frequently more. Ledures in botany, and attendance on the in-
firmary, go forward m the fummer ; and a good many of the fludents, cfpecially thofe
who come from a didance, continue at Edinburgh during that feafon.

This uoiverfity began to be celebrated for the dudy of medicine about the year
1730; when a number of gentlemen, natives of this country, and pupils of the illuf-
trious Boerhaave, fettled here, and filled the profeffor's chairs with fuch abilities, as
lerved to edablifh Edinburgh for the Heat of indruclion in the healing art. It was

its

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

473

its peculiar pfood fortune to h:\vc a fuccodion of profeflfors of mod diflinguKhed parts,
uhiclj has preftrvcd its hunt- wiili uiidiiniiiilhtxt ludrc to the very prtTcnt time.

Near the collepo is the Trade s-maidon-horpital, a plain, neat building, uith eleven
windows in front, fmindcd in 1707, by the mechanics of the city, for the maintenance
of the daughters (^f their decayed brethren. Mrs. Mai7 Krfkine (of whom more will
be menti med hereattcr^ contiibuted largely towards this dofign, anil had the honour
of being eniiiletl joint touiidrefs. It maintains, at prdeiit, fiftytvNO girls.

Somewhat farther are two < liurcher- under one I'oof, called thf Grey fliers. The
convent bclor.ging to it was founded by Janus I, for the purpofe of inllrucling hi's
people in divinity and pliilofopliy, and was laid to have been fo maj.'nificent, that the
fuperior, who was lent for from /uric-zee to prtfidc, at fu!l declined accepting it. la
this church I had the fiitisfadion of hearing divine fervici' perfirmed by the celebrated
Dr. Robertfon. It began with a hymn; the miniller then repeated a prayer to a (lauding
cotigrcgation, who do not diflrait their attentiDn by bows and compliments to eacU
other, like the good people in England. lie then gave an excellent comment on a
portion of Scripture, wTiich is call d the Icclnre. After this fuccecded another hymn,
and prayer, the fennon, a third hymn, and the benediction.

Near this church is a pleafing groupe of charitable foundations, the genuine fruits
ef religion. Immediately behind it is the great workhoufe, the receptacle of the poor
of the city. When completed, it is to confilt of a centre and two wings, bur the laft
are not yet fmiflicd. It maintains about fix or feven hundred perfons of all ages j
each of whom contribute by their labour to their fupport. litlides ihefe are about
two hundred outpenfioners, who have fixpence or a fliilling a week. Near it are three
other buildings dependent on it ; one for the reception of lunatics, tiie fecond for th«
fick, the third for a f(.rt of weaving fchool.

The orphan-hofpital was begun in I733» under the aufpices of Mr. Andrew Gair«
diner, and other charitable perfons. At prefent it maintains feventy poor children,
who weave their own cloaths, and afllft in the whole economy of the houfe. The
building is very handfome, and has nine windows in front.

To the weft of this is Ilerriot's-hofpital, a magnificent pile of Gothic Grecian archi-
teflure, founded by George Herriot, goldfmith and jeweller to Anne of Denmark,
who left the vail futn of near forty four thoufand pounds fterling for the building ana
endowment. It is deOincd for the fupport of boys, and maintains at prefent a hun-
dred and throe. Within is a handfome fquare, with the flatuo of the founder. In
the council-room is his portrait, a half length liy Scougal : in !" : hand are fome jewels ;
for to that branch of his bufinefs he owed his fortune, partu 1 .rly by the profulion
bought for the wedding of the princefs of Bohemia. He was n.ember of the Englilh
parliament; and died, aged 63, in the year 1623.

In the fame room is a head of William Aytone, mafon, and builder of the hofpital.

Behind this is another fme foundation, called Watfon's hofpital, a building with
twenty-one windows in front. The founder owing his rife to tlie charity of a relation,
eiiabiifhed this houfe, for the fupport of about fixty boys, fons and grandfons of de-
cayed merchants of Edinburgh. They are educated here, and apprenticed out ; and,
after having i'erved their times with credit, and remained after that three years un-
iiuirried, rtctive fifty pounds to fet up with.

The Mercbants-maiden-hofpital lies north-eaft of Watfon's. It owes its inflitution
to the merchants of Edinburgh, and the fome Mrs. Mary Erfliine before mentioned,
lor the maintcnarce of the girls of diftrelfcd burgefles. It fupports about fixly, who

vol., iir. 3 V appear

t:i

' i ;'

II :

r: i

rr-

i'S:

474 MMKANT 8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

appear on Sundays in a ilrcfs tr\i\y Jimplcx niunditihy in dark brown gowns, black filk
handkerchiefs, and bl.ick filk bonnets.

The private aflsol' charity are alfo very con fulorablc. Every Sunday a colle^ion is
made for the fick and nccellitous. Such a religious nfpi'dl do the common people
pay to this fund, that nothinj^but extreme dlllrefs will induce them to apply tor re-
jicf. It feems to them a fort oF facrilepe to partake unnecellarily oia bounty deliincd
for the miforable ; and children will undergo any labour to prevent their parents from
becoming burthenfmne to this parochial ftock.

The New Town is connetled to the city by a very beautiful bridge, whofe higheft
arch is ninety-five feet high, and feventy-two feet wide. This bridge is flung over a
deep glen, once filled with water, and called the North-loch, but at prefent drained.
To the eafl and to the north of this bridge, is a motley aflemblage of churches, metho-
dift meeting, hofpituls, and play-houfe. I'hc old Trinity collegiate church, founded by
Mary of Gueldres, mother to James III is a Gothic pile. Near it is an hofpital, founded
on the diilblution of the ioriner : it maintains, in a moll comfortable manner, numbers
of aged perfons of each lex } for bcfides good diet, they have the luxury of a garden
and library.

Leith, the port of Edinburgh, is feated about two miles to the eafl, is now a confidcr-
able town, divided into two parifhcs, called north and fouth Leith, feparated by a river
of the fame name, 'i he original name was Inverliith, and is firit mentioned in 1329,
in a grant of it to the citizons of Edinburgh, under whofe jurifdiilion it lies. They ap.
point out of the old magillrates a baron bailiff, who with the adillancc of other officers
directs the affairs of the place. It was for fome time the rofidencc of Mary of Lorrain,
queen regent, who fo. lowed by her court, gave rife to feveral handfomc buildings ftill
exiding. The fame princcfs, when (he called in the aflillance of the French, fixed
their forces here, and caufed it to be fortified, on account of the convenient harbour and
its vicinity to the capital. Here Mary Stuart landed on her return from France, in
1 56 1, and in two years after deli royed the independency of the place, by mortgaging,
for a great fum of money, the fuperiority of it to the city of Edinburgh •. When
Henry Vlll. propofed the match between his fon Edward and Mary, he followed his
demand in a manner worthy fo boifterous a prince. In this rougli courtfhip, as it was
humouroufly fiylcJ, lie fent the Earl of Hertford with a numerous army to fccond his
demand, who burnt both tiiis place anii Edinburgh.

After tliat it was fortified by the French, and underwent a long ficge 1 the French
be havcd with fpirit, and for a great length of time baffled all the attemits of the Eng-
li(h, who fiipportctl the lords of the congrogaiion. At length it was yielded on compo-
fition, and the fortification razed. In 1571, it was reforlified by the P'arl of Mor-
ton ; and in a little k'fs than a century afterwards, a citadel was added by general
Monk, demoliflied on the refloration.

The harbour is but iuiliiferent ; yet by means of a fine pier large vefTels He here
with fccurity. The fuuthern fhnre of the Forth is fliallow and f ndy: no part between
Leith and Inch-Keith is above ^en fathom deep. The north is of a great depth, and
lias a rocky or foul bottom. Oppofite to Kinghorn is a ledge of rocks called theBlae,
which at a low ebS are only four fathoin from the furfiice. Yet the water deepens to
fifty fathoms witliiii a fliip's length. The pier is a beautiful and much frequcnteii
walk : and the annual races are on the fands, near low-water mark. It h.ts happened
often when the heats have been lonij, that the horfes run belly deep in the flowing
tide.

• RuLcitfon, i. jjJ

The

PBNNANT 8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

^75

The difproportlon of rain between this and the wcftem fide of the kingdom has been
flrongly cxcmplilicd ht-re. Lcith lies in a line fixty miles didant from Greenock.
Some years ago, when the rope-walks of both places were uncovered, it was obferved
that the workmen at the laft were prevented by the wet from working eighty days more
at Greenock, than at Leith, and only forty days more at Glafgovv ; fo fudden is the
abateniout of rain, and fo quick io the chiinge of climate, on receding from welt toeaft.

In my return to Edinburgh, pafll'd by Rcftalrig, the ancient refulence of the Logans.
The la!! pofloflor was accufed , five years after his death) of being concerned in the
Cowrie confpiracy ; and was cited to appear, but proving contumacious, his eflate was
forfeited, his bones burnt, and his heirs declared infamous.

On the aid of this month I vifued Hawthornden, the feat of the celebrated hiftofian
and poet, Drummond, about feven miles fouth of Edinburgh. The houfe and a ruined
callclct are placed on the brink of a vaft precipice of free-ftone, with the North-E(k
running in a deep den beneath. In the houfe are preferved the portraits of the poet
and his father.

In the front of the rock, juft beneath the houfe, is cut a flight of twenty-feven fteps.
In the way, a gap, palfable by a bridge of boards, interrupts the defcent. Thefe flcps
lend to the entrance of the noted caves, which have been cut with vad labour out of the
rock. The dclccnt into the great chambers is by eight fteps ; but, on the firft entrance
on right and left, are two rooms ; that on the right confifts of a gallery, fifteen feet
long, with a fpace at the end (twelve feet by feven) whofe fides are cut into rows of
fquare holes, each nine inches deep, and feems to have been the pigeon-houfe of the
place, there being an entrance cut through the rock. On the left hand is another
gallery, and through the front of this is a hole, facing the bridge, which feems intended
as the means to draw in the boards, and fecure the retreat of the inhabitants. In this
gallery is a little bafon cut in the rock ; perhaps a Bcnitoire.

The grand apartment faces the door, and is ninety one feet long ; the beginning is
twelve feet wide, the reft only five feet eight ; the height fix. In a recefs of the broader
part is a well, fome fathoms deep. Above is cut a funnel, which pierces the roof to
the day. Near the end of this apartment is a (hort turning, that lends to another gal-
lery, twenty three feet by five.

Thefe curious hollows have been fuppofed by fome to have been the works of the
Pi£ts } but to me they feem to have been defigned as an afylum in troublefome times for
fome neighbouring inhabitants, in the fame manner as Wetherell cells were for the
monks of the abbey. It appears by Major*, that the brave Alexander Ramfay, in 134 1,
made thefe caves his refidence for a confiderable time. To him reforted all the gallant
youth of Scotland; and to him parents fent their fons to be initiated in the art of war.
From hence he made his excurfiov.c to the Englifli borders with his pupils ; each inroad
was to them a ledure for valour and ftratagcm.

Thefe alone attradt the attention of Grangers ; but the folemn and pi£lurefque walks
cut along the fummits, fides, and bottoms of this beautiful den, are much more de-
fer%'ing admiration. The vaft mural fence, formed by the red precipices, the mixture
of trees, and grotefque figure of many of the rocks, and the fmooth fides of Pentland
hills, appearing above this wild fcenery, are more itriking objeds to the contemplative
mind.

After crofling the river, and clambering up a fteep hill, difcover on the fummit a
work of art, not lefs admirable than thofe of nature which we had fo lately quilted, I

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• De Geftis Scotorum, lib. ». c. 16. p. 236.
3 P 2

mean.

^^t^as^^

SECOND TOUR JN SCOTLAND.

476 ppnnant's

mean, the chap.I ot" Rullyii, Rutk.iyn *, i r the hill in tho glen ; a ciirioiis piece of
Gothic architc'ifliiro, ioumlvd, in 1.(46, by Williiun St. Clarf, prince «t Orkney, lor a
provort, fix prebend., iit'8, aiij tai)iiiij!;ini',.bi>y:i. 'llu'oulliileis ornamenteil with a mul-
titude otpinn-KU'S, and variety of luihcroiiu iiulptun-. 'Ihe infule is lixty-niiio feet lonj^,
the breadth thirty four, fupported l)y two row,-, of chillercd pillars, betwcn fevcn and
eight feet hi^h, with an ailleontacli fide. '11 le a re lie;, areobtufely (Jotiiic 'Jliele arches
are continued acrofs the lido aifl.s, but the renter of tin; ( luircti is one continued arcii,
elegantly diviilod into compartments, and liiiely fculpturid. Tho capitals of tito pillars
areenriclk'd with fuli.tge, and yarioty n| figuri't. ; aud.aniidii a heavenly concert, appears
a thi.ruliiin blovinjjtiie anricnt Ilij^hland b.t[\pipe. In lliort, in all parts is a profufioa
to exquifite, as feenis ovtn to have aili-'ded wlihrofpecl the barbarilm of Knox's manual
reformer!;, Co as to inciuc." thorn to 1j, .ire thi.-, beautiful ;ii;d vtiierable pile.

In a deep den far beneath, amidll wooded eminences, are the ruins of the caiUe, fixed
6n a pcniiiiulat;'d rock,;tcceiIil)!e by a bridi'e of lliipen.iou'? hcij^ht. This had been
the feat of tli.' preat name of Sinclair. Ot lliii; houfc was <Jlivi r, favouriti- of James V.
and the innocent caufe of the lols of the battle of Scilway Mols, by the hatred of the
nobility to his preferuJ command, lie lived in poverty to }!,ivc a fine lelVon of the
uncertainty of proi'p^iity to tli'.* piid^' oF ili" wortlif'lh /Vrr.in, minion to James VI.
appcarin}^ belore the inlokiit favourite, in ilie garb of adverfity, repeating only thefe
wordii, " I am Oliver Siiielair."

Near this place, tl.o En^'.liili, under John de H.^grave, re(,'(tu of .Scotland, in 1302,
received three defcts in one day from ilie Scots, under John Cmnmiii and Simon
Fraaer.

In my return, vifit St. Catlnrine's well, noted lor the Pffroleum fwlmming on the
furface. A little farther, to tiie l-.Tt, is a nolod camp of an oval form.

On returning into iliis city, I cilletl at Mr. Braid vvooil's acidemy of ihimb and deaf.
This extrau'rdir.ary prulelRr hud uiidu" his care a number of youn;f pvrlons, who had
received the rionHtIii..n hear, the divine inllaius ; but from the unluippy conllruction
of their organs, were (till tluy had rejeivtd his inilrudions) denied the power of
Utterance. Every id.a was l.ici^cd up, or app ared hut in their eye*;, or at th.ir fmgcr
tnds, till their mafkr inllruded ilicin in art*; unknown to us, who h.ive the faculty of
hearing. Apprcheiifion re.ici;csus by the grofllrlL'nfe. 'i'liey fee our words, and our
uttered thoughts -become to them viAble* Our ideas e.xprelled in Ipeech lliike their
e rs in vain : th:ir eyes receive them as they part fioni our lips. i'hey conceive by in-
tuition, and fpeak by imitation. Mr. Braidwooil firli teaches them the letters and their
power;. ; and the ideas of words written, begiiming with the moi fnnpl..'. The art of
fpeakmg is taken from the motion of his lips ; i»i.-> wurJs being uttered flowly anddi!-
tinftly. Their anfwers are flow and foniewhat harili.

When 1 entered th^* room, and found myfelf furnnmded with numbers of human
forms fo oddly circumdanced, I felt a fort of anxiety, inch as I mijjlit be fuppokd to
feel had I been environed by another order of beiiiLs.. 1 was loon relieved by being
introduced to a molt angelic yimng creature, of about the age ol ihiiteen. S'-.c ho.
nourtd me villi her ntw acquired converfation ; but I may truly lay, that I could
fcarcely bear the power of her piercing eyes ; (he looked me through and tlir.jugii.
She Toon faiisfied me that flie was an apt Icholar. She readily apprehended ;dl I laid,
and returned me anfwers with the utmoll facility. She read ; Ihe wrote well. Her
reading was not by rote* She could clothe the fame thoughts in a new fet of words,

* A minute account of this chapel, its carYlngtj &c. arc in a Uuk bobk, printid by Mr. William AulJ)

and

PINNANT't BBCONO TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

477

and never vary from the original fcnfo. I have forgot the book fhc took up, or the
R-nteuces dm made a new viTfiun of y but the cifaii was us follows :

Original paflagc.

I,(iri! Bacon li«i diviilcd the wliolt of linnuii know-
Ird^c iiili> hi(li>ry, pnrtry, miil pliilDfiiiiliy, wliiill
arc rcfiMvwt to ilic tliiff powrri of the niind, ine-
nioiy, iniaginatiuii, and rcafon *•

Vtrfion.

A nolilfman hut parted the totiil cir all of maei'»
fliidy, or undri lUiidiiip;, iiid) nn at ciiiiiit of the life
mufiiieri, rrll^'iuii, and cuKomi of any prnple or
C( uiitiy t vttfi; or metre; moral or natural knowlirdffei
whii h are poiiited to thk three faculltci of the loul
or fpirit | the faciiltie* nf remembering what i» p*A,
tiiouglit orcuiiccption. and right judgment.

T left Mr. Braidwood and his pupils with the fatisfadion which mufl refult from a re*
fledion on the utility of his art, and the merit of his labours : who, after receiving un-
der his care a Being that feemed to be merely endowed with a human form, could pro-
duce the (livina particiiLi aura, l.itciit, and, but for his fkill, condemned to be ever
latent in it ; and who could rcUorL- a child to its glad parents with a capacity of exert-
ing its rational pf)\vcrs, by expri flivo founds of duty, love, and affedion.

Before I quit E linburgh, 1 mull mention that it is the firfl royal burgh in Scotland;
is govenitd l)y a provoll, who li;is iji." aikiition of lord, four bailies, and a dean of guild :
who did mo the i;i(lini;iii(hed lioiKuir of eoiifcrring on me its free.lom, after an elegant
tntcrtaimnent at the houfe of the Rij^ht Honourable John Dalryinple, Lord Provol:.

1 refer the reader to the Appeiulix for a lill of the manufatlures in atid 'out this
great ciiy. If the mention ol Icv.rul may bethought too minute, it muft be confidered,
now many ^ycn of the ii^'ccfr.iries of life were wanting in North-Britain, till the rifing
induftry of the age determined that this country (hould fupply its own dehciencies. In
the time of James VI. how deplorable was its trade ! for, as old Ilackluyt fings, it evea^
imported its wheel-barrows and cart-wheels :

And ilie ^cots bene charged knownen at the eye,.
Out of (•liiiidcra witli li tit merctiii',
And ureal pltmic of liulxrdufllcrs wnre
And halt licr fhippcs with car'.-whieles bare,
And wiih hairowrs arc laden tt' with fublUncc V
I'liU!) moil ludc are in iter ihevildiiit' f .

But notwithflanding the prefent progrofs that Scotland has made in the ufeful arts, it
mud (lop at a certain point, proportinate to its wealth and popuhilion, which (land thus
in rcfpei-t to England: when the land tax is at two (hillings in the pound, Scotland
pays 23977!- c-R. 7d. and England 99496CI. os. 4d. that is, lefs than the proportion of
I to 41. The landed property of the former is i,ooc.oool. per annum ; of the latter
l6,cco,oool. But if the wealth in moveables is added, thedifterence will be as i to 20»
In rcfped to numbers of people, England has 8,000,000; Scotland only 2,000,000.

8e|)t. 26. Leave Edinburgh. Ride through Dalkeith, and have the pleafure of pafs*
inp: the day with Sir Juhn Dalrymple, at C'randon caftle. I'he country good, full of corn,
and decked with numbers of .'mall woods. Dilpofo of the morning by vifiting the caflleS
of Crichton and Borthwick. The firil is feated on the edge of a bank, above a grafly
g!cn. Was once the habitation of the chancellor Crichton, joint guardian with the Earl of

* This wos read fince, by another ycung lady; but that wUich I heard wai not left difficultj nor left
faithfully traidlattd.

f LlU. Voyijjes, i. 887.

I. Callendar,

II li

478 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

Callendar, of James II. a powerful and fpiritcd ftatefman in that turbulent nre, and the
advifcr of the bold but blooJy deeds againd the too potent Douglaffes ; fads cj ufable
only by the plea of neceflity of ilate. During the lite t)f Crichton, it w.is l> 'i.'g<?d,
laken, and levelled to the ground, by Wiliiam Earl of Doughis, after a fiege of nine
months •.

It was rebuilt, and fonie part, which appears more modern than the refl, with much
elegance. The front of one fide of the court is vory handfome, ornamented with
diamond-fhaped facets, and the foffits of the ftaircafe beautifully carved ; the cafes of
fome of the windows adorned with rofettes, and twifled cordage, riic dungeon, called
the Mafmore, is a deep hole with a narrow mouth. Tradition fays, tiiat a perfon of
fome rank in the country was lowered into it for irreverently pafliiig this cadle, with-
out paying hip refpedls to the great owner.

The parilh church had been collegiate ; founded in 1449, by the chancellor, with
the confent of his fon, for a provoft, nine prebendaries, and two finging-boys, out of
the rents of Crichton and Lockerwort.

About a mile farther is Borthwick caftle, feated on a knowl in the midfl of a pretty
vale, bounded by hills covered with corn and woods ; a mod pidurtfque fcene It
confifts of a vaft fquare tower ninety feet high, with fquare and round ballions at equal
diftances from its bafe. The ftate rooms are on the urft (lory, once accoflible by a
draw-bridge. Some of the apartments were very large, the hall forty foot long, and
had its mufic gallery, the roof lofty, and once adorned with paintings. The caltle was
built by a Lord Borthwick, once a potent family. In the vault lies one of the name,
in armour, and a little bonnet, with his lady by him. On the fide are numbers of little
elegant human figures. The place was once the property of the Earl of Bothwel, who
a little before the battle of Carberry-hill, took refuge here with his fair confortf.

Lodge at a good inn at Blackfhields ; a village, as I was informed, lying in a portion
of Haddingtonfhire, furrounded by Lothian.

Sept. 27. After croffing a rivulet enter the fliire of Berwick. Afcend Soutry-hill,
from whence is a fine view of the firth of Forth, the county of Fife, the Bafs ifle, and
the rich county of Eaft Lothian immediately beneath us. '1 "his advantageous fituation
made it a noted beacon, which caufed it to be particularly noticed in the old Scotch
laws on that account J. Crofs a tedious dreary moor, and defccnd irto Lauderdale ;
a long narrow bottom, uninclofed, and deftitute of wood, but abundant in corn. Reach
Lauder, a fmall town, noted for an infolent aft of jullice done by the nobility on the
<|pftart favourites of James III. Cochran a mafon, created Earl of Mar, Hommil a tay-
lor, Leonard a fmith, Rogers a mufician, and Torftfan a fencing-mafter, dirofting all
his councils. The nobility alTembled here with their vaflTals, in obedience to his Ma-
jefi y's fummons, in order to repel a foreign invafion ; but took this opportunity to
free themfelves from thofe wretched minifters. They met in the church to confult
the necefiary meafures, and while they were in debate, Cochran, deputed by the King,
knocked at the door to demand the caufe of their aflcmbly. His attendance, and his
tirefs, as defcribed by Lindefay, are inoft defcriptive of the fellow's arrogance, " who
was well accompanied with a band of men of war, to the number of three hundred
light axes, all clad in white livery, and bhck bends thereon, that they might be known
for Cochran the Earl of Mar's men. liimfelf was clad in a riding-pie of black velvet,
with a gri'at chain of gold about his neck, to the value of five hundred crowns ; and
four blowing honis, with both the ends of gold and filk, fet with precious ftones. His

h
h

• Lives sf the DougldfTcs, 169,

% ^kciic't AUci, p. i'i. i2iti pari Jamei 11.

f Critical Enquiry, &c. 3d cd. j&y.

horn

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 479

horn was tipped with fine gold at every end, and a precious ftone, called a berryl,
hanging in the midd. This Cochran had his heuuiont born before him over-gilt with
gold, and fo were all the reft of his horns ; and all his pallions were of fine canvas of
filk, and the cords thereof of lin-j twined filk, and the chains upon his pallions were
double over-gilt with gold *." Mt^ was feizril, thus equipped, his chain and his horns
torn from him, and, with his c( nirades, hanged over a bridge (now dcmoliihed) in fight
of the King and the wlu'-le army.

Near the town is Thirloftaiie caflle, a fingular old houfc of the Earl of Lauderdale.
The front fmall, bounded on each fide with a great round tower, capt with dated
cones. The infide had been heavily Ituccoed by the Duke of Lauderdale, one of the
noted cabal in the time of Charles H. His portrait, by Lely, is to bo feen here; a
much more advantageous one than that by the noble hiftorian, who paints hiin " info-
lent, imperious, flattering, didembling, had courage enoujih not to fail, where it was
abfolutely neceflary, and no impediment of honour to rellrain him from doing any
thing that might gratify any of his pnflionsf.''

After riding two miles tlu'ough a long trad of coarfe fheep-walks, turn out of the
great road, and enter the fliire of Roxburgh.

Pafs by Threrpwood, infamous in lormcr days for mofs-troopers ; defcend into a
little vale, and fee fome ruined towers at Cohnflie and Ililflap ; al'cend again, and foon
after fall into a pretty valley woodcu and watered by the Gala ; and at a houfe of
the fame name receive every civility from its owner, John Scott, Efq. We have now
croffed the water, and are in the county of Selkirk, or the forclt of Etrick, which
was formerly referved by the Scottifli princes for the pleafure of the chace, and
where they had fmall houfes for the reception of their train. One in Gala Shields, the
adjoining village, ftill keeps the name of Hunter's Hall.

This country is fupportcd chiefly by the breed of Iheep, which fell from eight to
twelve pounds a fcore. 'I'hey are generally fold into the fouth, but fometimes into the
Highlands, about the month of March, where they are kept during fummer ; and,
after being improved by the mountain-grafs, are returned into the Lowlands the be-
ginning of winter. The ufiial weight of a wether is from thirteen to eighteen pounds
of twenty-two ounces per quarter. The fleece has been of late much improved by
the ufe of oil and buttei", inftead of tar; and the wool, which once was fold at five
ihillingsand iixpence, now fells for ten fliillings per (tone of twenty-four pound;..

1 he fhecp inhabit the hills, but the ground is lo indifferent that an acre will maintain
but one. A Iheep farm of fifteen hundred acres is let for eighty pounds. Numbers
of cattle are reared here ; and much chcefe and butter made, bu»; the laft very bad in
general, and ufed chiefly for greafing the flieep. The Dorfetfliire breed has been in-
troduced here, but, in this northern climate, in two or three years they lofe their pro-
lific nature.

I am uncertain whether a cullom that prevails a little north of Coldftream, does not
extend alio to thefe parts. About Duns, the fair fpinfters give much of their leifure
time to the fpinning of blankets for their wedding portion. On the nuptial night, the
whole (lock of virgin induftry is placed on the bed. A friend of mine has, on fuch
an occafion, counted not fewer than ten, thick and heavy. Was the Penelope who
owned them forfuken by her Ulyflfes, flie never could complain, like the Grecian
fpoufe,

Non tgo ctft'tto jacuintra fiigida Ui\o !

M,: I

li:-^

(v,

p. 78. folio cJ.

t III. ^4.

About

PsS'flS

480 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

About a mile weft of Gala Shields are very evident vcftiges of the great ditch callej
the Catrail, which is twenty-five feet wide, bounded on each fide by a great rampart.
It has been traced twenty two miles ; pafl'es four miles weft of Hawick, up DocUich-
hill, by Fairnyfidc-hill and Skclfe-hill, acrofs F.llen water, alcends Carria,i;j-liill, and
goes by the Maiden Paps, reaches Pear fell on llie Dead-water, on the borders of
Northumberland, and from thence m;iy be traced beyond Langholme, poiuliiig to-
wards Cannonfby, on the river Eik. ():i feveral parts of its courfe arc (tmiig round
forts, well forti led with ditches and ramparts, fome even exceeding in Itrength thole of
I he Romans. Whether it ever reached fartiier north than Gala b.s not b vn dil-
covered, but the tradition is, that it extended from iVa to lea. Ivir. Gordon, iht o:;!y
antiquary that has explored it, traces it no farther ; but h:\s oblerved the cliiin of
forts towards ead Lothian. It is probable, that is was calt up by the inlKiijitants ot tho
country north-weft of it, as a pvotodion a;::;ainll; tho iiim.ids uf invaviers ; iiut wh ) ihcy
were, or what was the date of the work, are ditlicultics not to be determined iroiii
hiftorical authority.

Sept. 2 ». C> ntinue my journey for a time along a fertile bottom, and, n >:'r
the jundion (the lafl in this place,) of the Gala and the Tweed, a hue river, agaiu
enter the Hiire of Roxburgh.

All the country is open, and much of it full of corn. H -re the farmers injudicioufly
cut up the fides of the hills, and fpoil their fine flieep-walks to get a little hue and bad
corn.

At a place ca'led Bridgend flood, till within thefv.- few years, a large pier *, the re-
maining one of four, which foriMed here a large bridge over the 'Tweed, lii it was a
gateway large enough for a carri.igeto pafs through, and over thit a room, twintyleveil
feel by fifteen, the refidenre of the pcrlbii who toi k the tolls. This bridge Wiis not
formed with arches, but with great planks laid from pier to pier. It is faiJ that it was
built by David 1. in order to alTord a pallage to his abby of Melros, which he had
newly tranllated from its ancient fite ; and alfo to facilitate the journies of the devout
to the four great pilgrimags of Scot and, viz. Scone, Dundee, Paitlev, .and Melros.

Crofs the jiew bridi;r, pafs by Darnwick, and fooii after by Skiimer or Skirmiflvhill,
noted in 1526 for a fray between the Karl of Angus and the family of the Scotts, under
their laird, Scott of Bucdeugh. Angus had pofilflion of the perfon of James V. then
in his minority ; and uled his power with fo little moderation, as to make the young
prince defirous of being releafed. The power of the Douglafl'es was often an over-
match for the regal. Such was the cafe at prefent ; James therefore was obliged to
apply to Buccleugh, a potent borderer, to attempt his deliverance. That Lord, in order
to bring His Majefty within the limits of his eltate, encouraged all kinds of excelfes
among hk people. This brought the King, attended bv Angus, to fupprefs their ile-
prcdations. Buccleugh appeared with his powers ; a fkirmifh begun, the Scotts were
defeated, and James was for a time obliged to ful^mit to the tyranny of his keeper.

At a fnull diftance lie the elegant remains of tiie abby of Melros, founded in i 136,
by David L, as thefe jingling lines import ;

Anno millriin ctnlino, tcr qtioq-ic i!fiir>,
Et ft-xto Cliridi, Mtlrolc, luml.:ta fuilli,

David peopled it with Ciftertians, brought from Rivale abby, in Yorkthlre, and
dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. At the Reformation, James Douglas was appointed

• Corrmunicaled »o me by a prntlfman wim rfn<mbcrs tJie pi'ir, now Jcinolifhcd. Mr. Gordon fuj
«n£r»vcd what remaiocd in Lis tii>ic, in his 6|th pliitt-.

commcndator

I'ENNAMl'S SECOKD TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

481

enmmondatbr, who tonV 'wn much of the buiWino; Tn order to ufe the materials in
building a large houfc T nifelf, which is fHll ftanJing, and dated 1590. Nothing is
left of the abbey, excep-.;. c? a part of the cloiflcr wails, elegantly carved ; but the ruins of
the church are of" mufl: uncommon beauty ; part is at prefent ufed for divine fervice,
the reft uncovered ; but every part docs great honour to the architeft, whofe memory
|s preferved on the walls in thefe uncouth lines :

John Miirrlo fnm tym caMit ^9S I, ^

AnA horn in P.iiyflc ci-rtainly ;

And liaJ in kepyinjr all mafom wprfc,

Of .Snnt indrovB, the liyo kirk

Of Glafgn, M<-lros, «n<l Paid ly,

Of Nvddyfil.iyl, and of Galway.

I'ray tn (jod and Mary baith.

And f*«ct St. Joliii keep this haly klik from Iltaiili.

The fouth fule and the eaft window are elegant pad defcription ; the windows lofty,
the tracery li;4ht, yet (Irong. The church had been in form of a crofs, and of confi.
derable dimenfions ; tho pillars clullcred ; their capitals enriched with mod beautiful
foliage of vine leaves anil grapes. A window at the norl<li end of the tranfept is a moft
rich rofe quatrefoil. 'I'he work of the outfide is done with uncommon delicacy and
cunning. The fpires or piimacles that grace the roof; the brackets and niches that,
till 1640, were adorned with Itatues, are niatchlefs performances. But what the fury
of the difciples of Knox had fpared, the Itupid zeal of covenanting bigots deftroyed.
In times long prior to thefc it had felt the rage of impious invaders. In 1322, the
baffled Edward II. vented his race on the abbies of Melrofs and Dryburgh. Richard II,
was not more merciful to it ; and in the reign of Henry VIII., in 1544, two of his
captains, violating the remains of the Douglaffes, felt th>j fpeedy refentment of their
defcendant, Archibald Earl of Angus, in the battle of Ancrum-moor.
. The fide of the welt end of the church, which remains (landing, is divided into five
chapels, oiice probably belonging to private families ; for (befides Alexander II., who
lay below the great altar) it was the place of interment of the Douglaffes, and othel:
potent families. James Earl of Douglas, flain at the battle of Otterbourn, was depo-
fited here with all the pomp that either the military or the religious profcffion could
bellow. Here too lies the I^ord of Liddefdale, the flower of chivalry, who fell an affaf-
finatcd vidim to the jealoufy of William I. Earl of Douglas. His eulogy ftyles him
*' terrible and fearefull in arms ; meek, milde, and gentle in peace ; the fcourge of
England, and fure buckler and wall of Scotland, whom neither hard fucceffe would
make flack, nor profpi^rous floathfuU *."

Thf fiuiation of this religious houfe is remarkably pleafant, feated near the Tweed,
and fhaded with woods, above whofe fummits foar the venerable ruins, and the tricapi-
tated top of Kldon hill. On one of the heads is a Roman camp. I have fince been
informed ol others, with military ways, to be traced in various places.

Pafs by Neuiled, and Red-abby-(lead, a houfe belonging once to the knights Tem-
plars !• Proceed to Old Melros, now reduced to a fmgle houfe, on a lofty promontory,
pcninfulated by the Tweed ; a moll beautiful fcene, the banks lofty and wooded, varied
with perpendii ular rocks, jutting like buttreflf^s I torn top to bottom. This was the fite
of the ancient abbey of Culdees, mentioned by Bede to have exifted in 664, in the reign
of the Saxon Oiwy. This place was as celebrated for the aullerities of Dridhelmus, as

• I^ife of the Douj^'liilTfS, 7S.

i NftDtioned in llie Dcfcri,.lion of tL« Parifh of Melros, p. 7, unnoticed by Keith.

\l.

'I , I

^ MM
mi

VOt.. III.

3 0

ever

R-' .. 'iiS

48« pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

ev'T Flnchal was for thofe of St. Godric. The firfl was ri'ftored to lifo after beinc: d :ii
' for an entire nipht. During that fpace he pafTcd throu4;h purgatorv and h.-ll, hid Mie
beati/ic vifion, and got very near to the conliiies of heaven. His angelic giiid.' j we
him an iifeful lelfon on tliu eliicacy of prayer, ahns, falling, and particularly iiiiHes of
holy men ; infallible means to relieve the fouls of friends and relations from the pl.'ce
of torment *.

'Jhe defcriptions which Bede has given of the feats of mif. ly and blifs are very poe.
t'cal. lie paints purgatory as a valley of a llupendous length, breadth, and depth : one
fule fdlcii by furious ilonns of hail and fnow ; the othc r with lambent, mextinguifliable
flames. In tliefe the fouls of the deccafed alternately experienced the extreme s of heat
and cold. Both Shakefpcare and Milton make ufe ot ttie fame idea: the firll iii his
beautiful defcription of the Ihue of the dead in Mcafure fur Meai'urc :

Ay, but to ('.II' anil po we know not wlicre ;
. . To lie in coKl ii'jili nation, ami to rot ;

f Tlu.i Icr.l'ihlc w.iiiu niotiuii to Iicionv.'

A kiicackci cloil ; ar.d the delighud f|)irit
To bathe in licry floculs, or to re fide
111 thrilling rijjioiis of tliick-ril)bi.d ice ;
I'o be imprifoii'd in the vicwlcl-, w imis,
And blown with rcllltfs violence ab^ut
The penilent world !

Milton's thought is drefTed only in different words :

At certain revoKitions all the damii'd

Are brought; and feel by tninri the bitter change

Of fierce extriivies, extremes by chdii^je more fierce ;

From 1 tds of ra^'iiig lire to llarve in ice

Their foft ethereal heat.

Crofs the Tweed at Dryburgh boat, and re-enter the fliirc of Berwick. On the nor-
thern fide, in the deep gloom of wood, are the remaiiis of the abbey of Dryburgh,
founded by Hugh Morville, conflable of Scotland, in the time of David I., and Beatrix
de CampoBello his wife. There are fcarce any reliquts of the church, but much of
the convent, the refectory, fupported by two pillars, IVvi^ral vaults, and other offices ;
part of the cloifler walls, and a fine radiated window of (tone-work. 'I'liefe remains are
not inelegant, but are unadorned. This was inhabited by Pn-einonftratenlian monks,
who flyled the Irifh abbies of Druin la croix and Woodburn their daughters f. At the
Reformation James VI. beftowed Dryburgh on Henry Erikine, fecond fon of the Earl
of Mar, whofe houfe as commendator is ilill inhabited.

Continue the ride through a fine country full of gentle rifings, covered with corn,

and rcfembling Picardy. Keep flill in fight of the Tweed, whole banks, adorned wilii

hanging woo3s, and variety of beautiful borders, well merit the apollrophe of the old

fong:

How fweet are tlie banks of the Tweed !

Pafs oppofite to a round tower, called Little Den, placed on ^ clifT above the river,
once a border-houfo of the Kers. Crofs the river at another ftrry. Pafs by Ruther-
ford, where Robert HI. founded an hofpital, dedicated to Mary Maj-idalene, and he-
flowed it on the abbey of Jedburgh, which was to maintain here a prieil to pray for his
foul, and thofo of his anceflors, kings of Scotland J.

Cede, lb, V. c, 12. p, 19O.

f MoiuHicon HiLernicum, 114C, 141

X Keith, jpz.

Again

PENNANT S -SECOND TOUR IN SCOTI-AND.

48.

Ap;ain enter the county of Roxburgh, and foon after fee, on a high clilTahovo the
water, a fiiiail Roinau camp, with two deep fofl'e? on the land fide, and not far dilLmr -.wi
exploratory mount. The. view grows more piclurofque ; the river, boinuhid by lifiv
cliffs, cloathed with trees ; and on a rifing a little, beyond appear the {^rtat woodb of
Fleurus, and the houfe in front, the feat of the Duke of Roxburgli.

Pais beneath the Cat^ of the once potent caflle of Roxburgh, featcd on a vaQ: and lofty
knowl, of an oblong form, Auideniy rifing out of the plain, near the junction of the
Tweed and the Tiviot. On tlie north and well it had been defended by a great fois.
The fouth impends over the Tiviot, fouie of whofe waters were diverted in former times
into the caftle ditch, by a dam obliquely eroding the ftream, and whole remains are
flill vifible. A few fragments of walls are all that exifl: of this mighty flrength, the
whole area being filled with trees of confiderablc age. At the foot was once featod a
tow n of the Hime name, deltroy^d by James II. when he undertook the fiege of the
callle, and probably never I'e built.

The ancient name of the cadle was Marchidun, Marchtnont, or the hill on the
marches *. The name of the founder eludes my enquiry. The firfl mention I find
of it is in i i32t» when a treaty was ooncluLled here on the part of King Stephen, by
Thurilan, archbilhop of York, between lum and David I. In 1 17 t» after William the
Lion was taken prilbncr near the caftle of Alnwick, Roxburgh and four others of the
ftrongefl; in Scotland were delivered to Henry II., as fecuritics for doing homage (on
his releafe) for the crown of Scotland J. 'J'hey were reltorcd to the Scots by his fuc-
cellbr. In 1296 it was taken by Edward I. § In 1342, the year in which David Bruce
returned from France, this fortrefs was redored to his crown by the valour of Alexan-
der Ramfay, who was appointed governor; an honour he enjoyed but a fhort time,
being furprifed by the envious Douglas, and ftarved to death in the caftle of Hermi-
tage ||. The Scots loft this fortrefs in the reign of Edward III., who twice c;.'lebrated
his birth-day in itf[. It was put into the hands of Lord Henry Percy, after the defeat
and captivity of David, at the battle of Nevil's-crofs **. But the moft diftinguifhed
fiege was that in 1560, fatal to James II., a wife and gallant prince, who was llain by
the burfting of one of his own cannons. A large holly, inclofed with a wall, marks the
fpot. His queen, Mary of Gueldres, carried on the attack, with vigour, took and totally
demolidicd it.

We have feen before the misfortunes that attended the firft: of this ill-fated name.
James I. fell by the hands of aifaffins at Perth : his fucceffor met at this place, in the
height of profperity, with a violent death. James III. was murdered by his rebellious
fubjeds, after the battle near Bannockbourn. James IV. loft his life in Flodden field.
James V. died of a broken heart, on the defeat at Solway j and the fate of his unhappy
daughter, Mary Stuart, is unknown to none. In her fon, James VI., adverfity remitted
for a time the perfecution of the race ; but refumed it with double fury againft his fuc-
ccifor Charles. His fon experienced a long feries of misfortunes ; and the bigotted
James fullered the punilhment of his infatuation, and tranfmitted to his ofispring exile
and feclufion from the throne of their anceflors.

Pafs by an inclofure called the Friery, the fitcof ahoufe of Francifcans, belon:^lng to
Roxburgh. Ford the Tiviot, which gives the name of Tiviot-dale to all the fine country
from Melros to this place, notwithftanding it is waihed by the Tweed j fo that the old
fong, with propriety, calls its inhabitants

ii;

■^S('l

:i M

• i

\'i

"J f

* Camikn. f HolInflK-d, Hia. Scot. 183.

5 Waliiiigham.

Major, 243. ' f Walliiijjliam, 134. 146

t Lord Lyttleton's Henry II. 8vo. v. 220. Major, 1 3 j.

•* Major, 244.

All

■'m

■'— V

484

FENNANT S 8KC0ND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

All plf.ifant men of Tivintd.ilf ,
fail by the river Tvvttd.

Have hero a moil charming view of Kelfo, its anrient church, Mr. D'ckfon's pretty
hoiife, and the elegant bridge of fix arches over the Tweed, near its jmidion with the
Tiviot. On crofllng it enter that neat place built much after the maiuier of a Fle:uilh
town, with a fquare and town-houfe. It contains about twenty fevi-n huiulreJ fouls,
has a very ccnliderable market, ard gr«'at quantities of corn are fold h re wet-k'y by
laniple. Tiieparifli church is daikHniie and inconvenient, being part vf ihat belongin^^
to tlieabbty ; but anew one is building, in an oclagonal fvirm, ei^4ht)-two feet in dia-
meter, fuppovted by a circle of pillars.

The abbey of Tyronenfians was a vaft pile, and to judgt^hy the remains, of venerabb
magnificence. The walls are ornamented with falfe round arclies, interrccling each
other. Such intcrfedions form a true Gothic arch, and may as probably have given
rile to that mode, as the arched fliades of avenues. The (teiple of the church is a v>.ft
tower. 'Ihis houfe was hunded by David I. when Earl of C.uinherbnJ. He rnl
placed it at Selkirk, then removed it to Roxburgh, aid finally, when he came to the
crown, fixed it here in i 128. Its revenues were in nioney above two thoufand a year
Scots. '1 he abbot was allowed to wear a mitre and pi ntifical rubes ; to be exempt from
epifcopal jurifdidion, and permittcxl to be prefcnt at all giueral councils.

The environs of Kellb are very fine ; the lands confill of gentle rilings, inclofed with
hedges, and extremely fertile. 1 hey have much reafon to I call of their profpects.
From iheChalkheughis a fine view of the forks of the rivers, Roxburgh hill, Sir James
Douglas's neat feat, and at a diliaiiCe Fieurs ; and from Pinnacle hill is lecu a vaft ex-
tent of country, highly cultivated, watered with l(;iig reaches ot thj Tweed, well wooded
on each margin. Thelc borderers ventund on cultivation much earlier than thofeon the
weft or eaft, and have made great progrefs in every fpecies of rural oeconomy. Turnips
and cabbages, for the ufc of cattle, covtr many large trads ; and potatoes appear in
vaft fields. Much wheat is raifed in the nei^f.bouihood, part oi which is fent up the
firth of Forth, and part into England.

The fleeces here arc very fine, and fell from twelve to fourteen fiiillings theflone, of
twenty-four pounds ; and the picked kind from eighteen to twmty. The wool is fent
into Yorklhire, to Linlithgow, or into Aberdetnfliire, for the ilucking manuladure;
and fome is woven here into a cloth cdled pi lir.s, and fold into F.nj;land to be drtiTed.
Here is alfo a confiderable manufadlure of wliite leather, chiefly to lupply the capital of
Scotland.

From what I can colleft, the country is greatly depopulated. In the reit^n of
Jainis VI., or a little before the union, it is faid that this county could fend out fifteen
thoufand fighting men ; at prefent it could not raife three thoufand. But plundering
in thofe times was the trade of the borderers, which might occalion the muUilude of
inhabitants.

I cannot leave Kelfo without regretting my not arriving there in time to fee the races,
which had been the preceding week. Thefe are founded, not on the fordid principles
of gaming, or diflipation, or fraud, but on the beautiful bafis of benevolence, and with
the amiable view of conciliating the aflfedions of two nations, where the good and the
bad, common to every place, are only divided by a rill fcarcely to be diftinguifhed ;
but prejiid.'ce for a titne could find no merit but within its own narrow bourne. Some
enlarged minds, however, determined to break the fafcination of erroneous opinion, to
mix with their fcllow-fubjeds, and to inflruft both the great vulgar and the fmall, that
the northern and fouthern borders of the Tweed created in their inhabitants but a mere

iktierence

pennant's second touh, m Scotland. 48ijr

diflfercnce without a diftinftion, and that virtue and good fenfe were equally common to
boih. At thele races the ftewards are lelcfted from each nation ; a Percy and a Douglas
may now bo feen hand in hand ; the example of charity fpreads, and may it fpread^ with
all its fwtct influences, to the remoied corner of our ifland!

What plcafing times to thofe that may be brought iti contrail ! when every houfe
was made dL-feiifible, and each owner garrifoned againft his neighbour ; when revenge
at one time diflatcd an inroad, and neceflity at another ; when the miflrefs of a caftle
has prtfciitcd licr fonswith their fpurs to remind them that her larder was empty ; and
that by a forray thi-y mull fiipply it at the expence of the borderers ; when every even-
ing the fliecp were taken from the hills, and the cattle from their pafture, to be fecured
in the low cr floor from robbers prowling like wolves for prey ; and the difappointed ■
thief found all in fafety, from the fears of the cautious owner* The following fimple..
lines give a true pidure of the times : .

Tlien Johnie Armflrong to Willie 'gun fay|.
Billir, a riding ttitn will we:
£iiki;laii(l and us have been long at feud^
Perhaps we may hit on fume bootie.

Then they're come on to Hutton-ha,' ,
They fade that proper place about ;
But ihe laird he was the wifcr man, ,
Far he had leit na geir without. -

Thefe were the exploits of petty robbers; but when princes dictated an inroad, the
confequenccs bore a proportion to their rank. An Armftrong might drive away a few
(heep ; but when an Henry direfts invafion, 192 towns, towers, ftedes, barnekyns,
churches, and baftel-houfes are burnt ; 403 Scots flain, 8i6 taken prifoners ; 10316
cattle, 1 2492 fliecp, 1 296 nags and geldings, 200 goats, 200 bolls of corn, and infight
geare without meafure, carried off. Such were the fuccefles during four months of the. .
year 1 544 *•

Crofs the river, tumalmoft due eaft, and after a ride of three or four miles find my- ■
fdf at the extremity of the kingdom. I look back to the north, and with, a grateful
mind acknowledge every benefit I received from the remoteil of the; Hebrides to the
prefent fpot ; whether I think of the hofpitality of the rich, or the cflbrts of unblameable
poverty, Oraining every nerve to accommodate me, amidft dreary hills, and ungenial
fkies. The little accidents of diet, or of lodgings, affeft not me : I look farther than
the mere differences of living, or of cuftoms ; to the gopd heart, and extenfive benevo-
lence, which foftens every hardfhip, and turns into delicacies the grofTeft fare*- My
conflitution never yet was difpofed to apathy ; for which I can claim, no meritj but am
thankful to the author of my frame, fince " I feel not in myfelf thofe common antipa-
thies that I can difcover in others : thofe national repugnancies do not touch me, nor
do I behold with prejudice the French, Italiao, Spaniard, or Dutch, much more my
fellow- fubjefts, howfoever remotely placed from me. But where I find their anions
in balance with my countrymen's, I honour, love, and embrace them in fome degree.
I was born in the eighth climate, but feem to be framed and condellated unto all : all
places, all airs, make unto me one country ; I am in England, every where, and undeK.
every meridian f."

Crofs an infignificant rill, called Riding-burn, and enter Northumberland.

■■';!'«

* Haynt'i State Papers, 43 to 51.

+ Religio Medici, p. jj. .,

PaTs.

486

PrNNAKT*3 SECOND TOUR T?T SCOTl-AND.

P.ils through C.irhain, a village, on the fomht-m banks of tlic Tweed. ITorc wan a
hoiil'o of black canons, a cell to that of Kirkham, in Yorkdiirc. It was burnt in 1296
by the Scots, under Wallace, wlio gives name to this day to an adjacL. ' fuld. See a
fragment of Wark eadlo, once the properly of the RofTcs, originally granted by Henry
III. • to Robert, fun of the Baron of Ilohnfly. It paffed afterwards into the family of
the Greys, who took tlieir title from the place. After the union of the two kingdoms,
bv tiie accefiion of James I., Lord Cirey's edate rofc from one thouland to feven or eight
thoufand pounds a year t ; fo inftantly did thcfe parts experience the benefit.

It was often attacked by the Scots, and in 1296 was taken and burnt by them. The
love of a Rolert de Rofs for a fair Scot occafioned this misfortune. He betrayed it to
his northern neighbours, and then joined the famous Wallace J. In 13^311 was again
burnt by the Scots § ; but after the battle of Klodden, the garrifon revenged its former
ilifgrace by cutting oil' numbers of the fugitives.

Leave bihind us, on the northern fide of the Tweed, Coldftream, the head-quarters
of General Monk ; from whence he marched to rellore monarciiy to his dillrellbJ
country. On the foiuhcrn fide is Cornhill, noted for its fine Roman camp ||, which we
palled unuittin;;ly on the \vk. This town lies in a large detached part of Durham, fur-
rounded by Northumberland.

All this country is open, deftitutc of trees, and almofl even of hedges ; for hedges
are in their infancy in thefe parts, as it is not above feven or eight years fince they have
been introduced. The land is fertile, fwells into gentle rifings, and is rich in corn. It
is uiif< nibly depopulated ; a few great farm-houfes and hamlets appear rarely fcattered
over the vail traces. There are few farms of lefs value than one humlred and fifty
pounds a year; they are generally three, four, or five hundred ; and I heard of one,
pofli'lled by a fingle family, that even reached twenty -five hundred : in this was a fingle
field of thr e thoufand acres, and which took fix hundred bolls of feed-wheat, of fix
Winchelter bufhels each. A humour fatal to the commonwealth prevails over many
parts of the north, of flinging numbers of fmall tenements into a large one, in order to
lave the expence of building ; or perhaps to avoid the multiplicity of receipts, lay a
whole country into a flieep-walk. Thefo devour poor men's houfes, and expel the
jincieiit inhabitants from their firo-fides, to feck their bread in a (trange land. 1 have
heard of a character (I have forgot thefpot it curies) that is too barbarous and infamous
to be overlooked ; which has fo little feeling as to depopulate a village of two hundred
fouls, and to level tluirhoufcs to the ground ; to dellroy eight or ten farm-houfes on
an cflate of a tlu;ulhnd a year, for the fake of turning almolt the whole into a flieep-
walk. There he lives, and there may he long live his own tormentor! deterting, de-
telled by, all mankind ! Wark and Learmouth, once confidcrable places, are now
fcarcely inliabiii d : the laft, formerly a great market-town, is now reduced to a fingle
farm-houfc. '1 he inhabitants have long fince been difperfed, forced to exchange the
wholdumc, the vigorous, the innocent lives of the ru>al ceconomilts, for the fickly
fliort-lived emplojs of manufaclurtrs in Birmingham, and other great towns, where
difeale, and often corrupted morahi, caufe double the confumption of people as would
happen, were they permitted to enjoy their ancients feats. The want of labourers be-
gins to be lenfibly felt. As a proof, they are retained by the year ; and policy dictates
to tliL-ir emplmcrs, the aflording them good wages : each has his cottage, a piece of
land, gratis, and a (hilling a day in fummer, and ten-pence in winter. I call this good

• l^Ufjliic'j Baron, i. r^^,
^ liulin lull, vul. i.i. ^44.

f Life of Lord Keeper tJiiilJford, lyj. J Dugdalc'l BaroH. i. 554,
ii Wallit's NoiihumbLclatid, ii, 461,

8 pay

pennant's second Toua in Scotland. - 4S7

pny in a country which ought to he v^-ry cheap ; if not, what are the fine cfTcMfls of tiie
great improveinciifs ? The Sp.'cbitor Ijuaks much of the dcferts oi the man that railcs
two ears of corn where one grew l)ifoii.'. But who will point out the man who has the
fcnil to make liis poor breilirai feel \\w happy cfl'ifl of hi;- art ? 1 believe, that at prc-
fent there are numbers who have r.uled ten fir one that were known a few years aj;o.
It woulJ bo natural to fuppofe, that plenty would introduce cheapnefs ; but till the pro-
vidential plentv of the prelent year, corn w.is exiiclly dnuble the value of what it was
fourteen year.s pail. Vet the plenty of niLMiey has not been found doubled by the poor
manufacturer or labourer. The land-owner in the north has taken full care of himfelf.
A iarni of 73I. per annum, twenty years ago, has been lately lit for 365I1, another of
230I., willbe loon let for loocl. per annum. Ai^ ellato was bought in 1759, for
6800I., it confilled of 1 i;r;o acres, of which 750 have been fold for 8400I. And all
thele improvements refult iron\ the unprincipled and iniquitous notion of making the
buyer of the produce pay not only to iatisiy the demand of the landlord, but to enable
the farmer to make a prince ly fortune, and to live with a luxury the fhame of the
times. They have lolf the r.lped.ilde chara61er of the old Englilh yeomanry, by too
clofe an imitation of the extravagant follies of their betters.

The oxen of thefe parts are very fine ; a pair has been fold for fixty-five pounds.
The wciglit of one was a hundred and fixty-eight ftones. The mountain flieep are fold
for half-a-guinea apiece ; the lowland ewes for a guint a ; the wethers for a guinea and
a half: the befl wool from fixteen to eighteen fliillings the flonc, of twenty-three pounds
and a half; — But to purfue our journey :

Obferve on the right feveral very regular terraces cut on the face of a hill. They are
nioft cxaflly formed, a little railed in the middle, like a fine walk, and about twenty
feet broad, and of a very confiderable length. In Ibme places were three, in others five
flights, placed one above the other, terminating cxaclly in a line at each end, and moil
precifely finiflied. I am told, that fuch tiers of terraces are not uncommon in thefe
parts, where they are called baulks. IMr. Wallis conjeQurcs them to be places for the
jnilitia to arrange themfelves on in time of war, that they might fhew thcmfjlves toad-
vantage thus placed rank above rank*. Mr. Gordon defcrilics feveral which hefaw in
Scotland, which he conjefturesto have been Roman, and formed for itinerary encamp,
nientst; in my opinion a lefs fatisiadory account. It appears more rcafonable, that
they were defigned for wir.it Mr. Wallis imagines, as nothing could mon^ highly gra-
tify the pride of a chieftain's heart, in this warlike country, than to review, at one
glance, his vaffals placed fo advantageoufly for that purpofe.

Reach the village of Palinlburnc, and finding neither provifion for man or horfe,
have recourfe to the hofpitality of John Aikew, Efq. ; of Palinlburne-Hall, where all
our wants were relieved in the amplelt maimer. From his houfe we vifited Fiodden
hill, celebrated in hillory for the greatefl lofs the Scots every fuflained. Here in 131 ;,
encamped Jaine;TV. in hisill-advifed invafion of England. According to the cuftom of
the time, every chieftain had his feparate'camp, whole velliges are apparent to this day.
Infatuated wiih the love of Lady Heron, of Ford, a neighbouring caltle J, he wafted his
days in inadiviiy, and fulfered the fair Dalilah to viht the Earl of Surry, the general of
his enemy, under pretence of receiving from her intelligence of his motions. She be-
trayed her credulous lover, whofe army dwindled by delay, of which clans were always
impatient. The enemy unexpectedly appeared before him j he would neither pernui a

I J

1 1

'J! I

! I[.

■ m

• Hift. Norlluimberland, il. 70.

I LiuJifaj, p. iij. Diummond, 145,

■\ Itinerary, 114, 1 15.

retreat.

488

1»BNNANT*S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

retreat, ncr fuffier his gallant mafler of artillery to annoy them in their paflafie over the
Till •. Surry cut off his paflfa^e into Scotland, atul hroiij;ht im the engagement, th \t
the devoted prince fo much wi (bed for: it raged chiefly near Hrankdon. Tlie Scots
formed a ring round their monarch, and he fell with many wounds, furronndcd by tl»e
dead bodies cf his faithful nobility. Not a gioat hoiife in Scotland but Iimenrcd the
lois of its chieftain or near relation. The body of the king was cnbaimcil, reied and
wrapped in lead ; and preCtntcd with the King's gauntlet to Queen Catherine, th.-n at
the palace at Richmond. After excommunication was taken olf (on reprefentation
that he gave figns of repftitance f in his lall moments} he was interred in tlic abbey at
Phone. On the diflTolution, the body was flung with great indecency mio a luuibf?r
room, where it continued till the reign of Queen Kliza'ieth, where Stow lays he law it.

* Some workmen wantonly cut off the head ; which \v;\s prel'ervcd for loine time bv one
Ycninge, mafler glazier to her Majefty, who tired with it, pave it to the fextnn ot Sr.
Michael's church, WooJ-ftreet, to be buried among the vulgar l)ones (.f the rharnel
houfej. Such poflhumous refpeft do the reliques of princes receive ! i'he Srois ])re.
tend that his body was never found, and that which was taken for it by the Kii^lifli,
■was that of one of his nobility; for n>any r-n that fatal day dreff-d thcinf'elv.'b in the
fame habit. They alledge, that the body found was not furrounded with the penitential

-chain § ; but it is pofTible, as Mr. Guthrie imagines, that Ijgn of remorfe for his par-
ricide was only worn on certain days. His fword and dagger arc now in the IJeralds

• office, prefented by the vidorious carl [|.

Oftober ifl. Pafs near lord caflle, now the feat of Sir John Delaval, poffefled In
'the reign of Henry III. by Odonel de Ford; and by the marriage of his daughter to
■William Tieron, pafled into that family ^ : from them to the Cans; from the Carrs to
■ the prcfenr owner.

Crofs Minefield plain, a flat of five mi-los extent ; obferve on one part a circular
*<:amp, with a fingle fofs and dike ; and oppofite to it, a fmall fquare entrenchment.
At the village of Millefield is faid to have been the refidence of the Kings of Bi'mieia
after Edwin •*. On the right is Copeland calllo ; a fquare tower, formerly the feat of
the Wallaces, but in our time transferred to the Ogles, by purchafe. Crofs the Glen,
a fmall river, but henoured with baptizing in its waters a multitude of Northumbrians,
who wtre converted by Paulinus, after King F.dwin had embraced the faith : the refi-
dence of him and his queen being at that time at Adigefrin, the neighbouring Yever-

ingtf.

Pafs by Huml ledrn hill, where, in 1401, the Scots under Archil aid, Earl ofPoiig-

las, received a fignal defeat b\ the Engilih, ccrjnandcd by Henry Percy, lurnamed Hot-

fpur, in wl.ieh Dniglas was taken pril»/n<r. On the hi I are feme maiks of (nirench-

mcnts, which the Scots flung up before tlie battle. The face of this hill is alfo di-

, \ided by imiliitudes of forraccK, ref< mbiing thofe above defcribeJ.

Ride throi'ij; \A'ooler, a fmall town. Obf'rvi- ftveral «)f the people wear the bonnet,
the l.dl remains of the Knglifh drefs in the reigns of Edward VI and Mary. The hiils
on the right apjyoac'h very near us, and the country riles on both (ides, and forms a
mixture of coni-Iand and flieep-walk. On the well appear thi- ('heviot hills, finooth
and verdant. Among them is laid the fcene <if the battle of Chevychace, i;i the cele-
'brated baUad of that name. Notwithllan.ling there is nothing but ballad authority tor

• I.indrfay, I <^. f Rymcr's Fu'lc-ra, xiii p t| '5. I .Stoa'a London, ^to. ^ 39.

j l.itidcf.iy, y'i. 117, I fi (I I.amlir'i tlill Fi'ulilrn, frntitifpitcf.

^f Dtigdilc, Baron i. ; 53. •• Camdm, ii. loy;. Wallii, ii. \f fifde, lib. 1 1, c. 13. p 95.

• it.

pennant's second TOUft m SCOTLAND.

489

it, yet itlshii',hly probably that fucli an aftlon might have happened between two rival
chi'.'ttaiiis, jealous of the invalion of their hunting-grounds. The lituits of the kinp;-
donis were then unfettled ; and even at this time, there are debateable lands amidd
thcfe very hills. The poet has ufed a licence in his defcriplion of the fi^jht, and mixed
in it fome events of the battle of Otterbournc, for neither a Percy nor a Uouglafs fell in
this woful hunting;.

Turn three miles to the fouth-eafl to vlfit Chillingham caflle, the ancient property of
the Greys, afterwards Lords of Werk, now of the Earl of Tankerville. The prefeiit
building is large, and of no greater antiquity than the time of James E. Here an; num-
bers of portnuiy,alinoft entirely niifiiamed. In the hall is the piftureof a toad, faiil to
have been found in the centre of the ftone it is painted on ; and beneath are thcfo lin:s :

rieui Stagyritn,

Tuo (i velij >)iiid imrabilius Euripo,

line venito.

riuant, ril1ki3nt(iue maii'i, et lit I.ninticut

Qu^i ttio triviutn fpoliiit lionurc :

Eiitibi iiovi qiiid, quo J iiuti pornt Al'ricu,

Ntf': fabtilotii Niliis areiiu,

I^iicni, tl,iminnm({ii(: puiam,

Aura t.iiiu'ii vitali cjfl'jm !

Cueco e rtctini fcini, ([uod vidn, I'axi,

Oblletricci liiL'Mii Liiliotoini dcdere Munui

Vivo Uufuiii.

In the park are between thirty and forty wild cattle, of the fame kind with tholb de-
fcribed at Drumlanrig.

Pafs over a dreary country, chiefly a fheep walk, open, and without tr^es ; crol';i the
Till, a fmall river, and on llcgoly moor fee tlie o6\agonal fhuft of Percy's trrofs, o t
whofo broader lides are carvjd the arms of the fiinily, crel'ents and pik?s. This was
ereded in meniory of Sir Ralph Percy, who wis flaiu here, in 1463, in battL- between
the partisans of the lioufe of Lancaller, and Lord Montacute. Lord Hungerford, and
the other leaders, fled at the firll onlbt ; he, with the fpirit of a Percy, kept his ground,
and died, confoling himfelF, that he hail '* faved the bird in his brcalt ;" meaning, that
he had prcferved his allegiance to Henry, never reflecling, as the unglozing hif-
torians • of old times remark, that he had abandoned that unhappy prince in his great-
eft neccflity, andfubmitted to his rival, Edward.

Near this crofs get on an ancient military road, micalled the Watling-ftreet, which
runs north into Scotland, and ibuth to Corbridgc. The northern part is better known
by the name of the Devil's dike : but as there is not a fingle ftation on it, from the place
it unites with the genuine Roman way near Bcuclay, it may be fuppofed to have been
the works of the Saxons, there being variety of little fortreifes near its courfe.

After a few miles riding, fall into the vale of Whiuingham, inclofed with hedges of
ancient (landing. Leave, on the right, the conic hill of Glanton-Pike, a noted beacon.
Again crofs the Till, at this place called the Bremifli. Ride through Whittingham, a
litile town, on the Aln, (here a little llream,^ and, pafling over part of the black and
dilmal Rimfide moor, lie at a neat inn, called the Half-way houl'o.

October 2. Defccnd into a cultivated narrow vale : reach. the fmall town of Roth-
bury, featcd on the Coquet, which, below the town, runs through a large extent of flat
Iree-ltone rock, in a Hit about forty feet lon^ and the wide, through which the
ilream rufhes with great violence, and has worn multitudes of thofe circular bafons

VOL. in.

• Hall, ill his reign of Edw. IV. p. 3.

3 »^

HuliuHicd, vul, iii. CC6.

called

4(0 riNM.VNT'j SFCONn TOUR tM «C0TLANO,

callfil ttii'TfiiUM's-pots. Tliin manor bclongcil to th? C.lavirinj^s; a name t:«ken from
a place in Klll-x, l>ut tluir lirll Irtdenu'iit was in tliis county. In flu; rd)^n of Kin>{
lihv., oiH' of ihini, I'illiii.miidKil hy tin.- name ot" Kitz-Rii^'cr, obtuincil a ••rant v»l this
manor, viih tlic wo( *!» In lending ; but his ninjilly rcll'ived in hinilcif 'lie liberty of
fiuiiriii/ in ihini. Ihit flii' lad ot the family rdi^ning it to tlic cruun, it waa ic giantvJ
to til* IVicii's, by I'Mwaivi HI. •

Crofs the Ciquit, on a biiJi^c of four arches; afccnci a (\vop lull, anil arrive in a
WiKHlltlii, lii'Ji;. l(.fs, ami unculiiv.tted country, wliicli coiiliinics for fomt' iuili!.s; ilio
jiicloriiivfi ciil.cr banks oi- il' -no walls. Hiach Catiihoi?, a row of nt-it hixilcs on an
emincnci", whire the country nicniis, and tn-ti^anil heJj^'.'s app.ar. Mr. W.illiy f fays,
It li^i.ilii.s til- tori on ih> Irll, uikI lliat in the rcijjn of ILiiry HI. ii bcioiiycd tu Sir
Uobtit dt.' CanduH', l;i.;lillu'iill"of thecoimty.

Below it i& W.dlin^ton; a gooJ hi.ulf, bcloii;;inj^ to Sir Walter ll'ickct, wlinfc
anceftor purclialL'd it frnn tiu iinlortiinar'j Sir | .hn Fenwii-k, beheaded in (>gfi,\a
whole fan.ily it had been from the rvi,;n ol Henry 1 V. Af er a lew inih's palsbv Ssvin-
bnrne cafllo, trolling a liuL' not'h of it, tiic true Wailin^-llrjct way, which runs into
the fhirool Roxburgh. At Cho'L'rtoii, we crofs thj Erring, a hnall ItnaMi, falling jull
below into the norih Tyne, a beautiful river, witii lloj.in,.; banks, finely tu iiv.;ti.-d. At
a fniall dillantc ii uih of Lhtjilettou, crols the fite of Adriaii'b liike, and .Scv< rus's wall,
oppohle to Walwick, the ancient t ihirnoni ; a (latioii on ili will bank of iIil* 'I'yno.
Here was flaiioned theloily of horle. or olajlcuiula AJiorum^ as apjv.ais by a fejudchral
ftone, figured I y Horltly J Several other monuuKntal inrcriptn ns have been found
there, piclei vi.d by the lame ai:'.hi>r. 'J his ua'l, whit h is tonimonlv known I y the name
ofthePicfb wid^crullcs tlic illand Irom IVa to fLajbtginirngat IJ .ulialt; % : on ihj Solw. y
firth, and cndintMu a fort at Coulln's-houfe Hear the villaj^e of VVall's-end, llieolj
Segedunuin, near ihcn'.ouih ol the 'i'yiic, a few inilrs ealt ol I'ony iEhi, or N^'ucallle.
'lie whole length of this v;:!l woi k was f]xiy-e!>;hth inilcs and tlirrc lurU^iigs || ; the
hcig'.t, in the time of Ikdc^, tw.ive feet, cxclufive perhaps - I parapet. The thick-
iiefs, I'om fevcn to nine feet. It w.iii guarded i y a innlutud " A towers, generally withia
lefs that' a mile didant ix^^m each otlKr ; ai! of ihem (ixty-iiv feet l-.iaro. IVt ween every
two of thefe lowers w^re four exploraU5ry turrets, only four yards Iqnan- : asthefc were
vithin c;dl, ccnfinels were placed in ihem to give an alarm. Belid, s itu I'e were feventeen
nations, at ab;Hit four n.ili s dillaiice from each other. '1 htfe are known bv names Inch as
Cilurnum, IVocolitia, anil the iike. A military way w.is mad'.'by Sevtrus, at the fame
time with his wall, and rar. from turret to turret, and was regularly |)avfd •'.

More to aflill my own incnuny, than to mform the nader, I may be pernn'tted to
name, in order of time, th;; number of walls or dehnces, I'ormed by the Romans, or
r-'paired 1 y them, in order to keep our nt rthrrii fcllow-lubjecfs within bounds. I he
firll was il.e chain efforts, niaile by Agricula, ln)in the tnth of Koiih to that of Clyd",
in the year 8i, to pro[ei.t his coru)uells from the incnrfions of the Caledon.uns j a...',
as Tacitus cxprLlIes it, to remove them, as it were, into another liland.

The ffcond was the vallum, or dike, flung up by Adrian, in the year 121. Span! '
bears witnefs to this ; who informs us, that -drian vifitcii Hritain, refornud n'any
things, and njadc a wall eighty miles long, to fep\rate the barbarians from the Romans.

• I)ii(T(hIi''s 15.T-oiia(»e, i 1-6, \-ui},
\ Vide V<)\»(;e to I In- H:hri('e4.
\ P.iii is)ii KiliLihly futiic mar .'.anti;.
<^t Vil. Ailriitni, c. xi.

I) Hoif.ly, 121,
-<bl)i'y lu Cumbcilai'd.

X NoriliumbcrlanJ, No. xkiv.
•• Horfcly 1 1 3.

This

49'

iclic-il -o
viiy re-
this fide

fENNANT'fl SECOND TOTJn IN SCOTLAND.

This was nude of rarth atul lion. ;. It tcrniijiatfil on the wof'crn r!',|r« nf the 1
at Axelutluniini, or Hrii ;h, on the Sulway f.mcis, anil w^s liijipolcil to h;ivi! re;
fanhcr ilian Pons iT'llii, or Ni'wcalHe, (,r, ihc ciiftorn. B.it by an account 1
cintly • n.'C(.'iv('il IVnni Mr. Robci f Trrifnn of ill f town, I fiiui it cxtcndcil on
as far a« the wuil of Scvcrus. A biol.' n (tone has lul( ly been liiliuvcrcd at W,
with this inlcription :

IIADR

M 1 1 R : CONl)

Unc. MAUM.

POS : CO^y. D.

The fhii\l was alfo of earth, made in the year 13S, by l^ollinr, TJiMcus, lieutenant
f " ^nt' 'liniis, wlin ncovciinj; the country, once conqu-'ml by Agrit, )!;», built another
t.iri" V . ' r o.i tlic bounJnry kft by th;it great general, ar.J rcnu)\ 'J the ('alodoniuns
farther from the Roman province. This is proved not only l.y C.vpitolinus, but by
fli'j in!criptions from the (lations in the courfcof if.

Tlvj fourth in tlie year 210. l)y Sovenis, as above defcrlbed. Notwithftand'ng his
hiflorian vaunts, that this emperor p netrated to the remotcft parts of the ifland, he
fc-med 10 jud^e it pnult nt to reduce its limits to t!ie vallntv of Adri.u'.

If we nvay credit Nfunius, Carafius, in 290, repaired the wail ^ f Sev< rus, and forti-
fied it with fevcn towers. A work fecmlnvjy needkfs, as it was before I'o well luj)plied
with forts. Ii feenis as if Nennius confounded the wall of Antoi tie with that of Se-
vtrus, for inmicdiately after mentioning the lali, he fpraks of P. 'gual, and iho river
Cluth. Tne fii II, bein[; Kin; id, near the end of Antonine's wall, t.' the firth ot Forth j
and the Chitli, the Clyde, wheie it terminates on the welUra roaft |

Theodofui;;, in ;6'', afirr driving the crov ds of Scotii, Aitacotti, ai d other barbarous
invaders out of the Roman province, repaired the boundary, built ne forts, and called
the parts he had recovered, V,li.iilia, in honour of the Emperor Valets §.

'Ihe provrmial Rritons, after thty were relieved from their dillrefl s, by tlic aflift-
arce of a Rom;n legion, in 426, once more repaired the wall of Anto-.ine with turf |!,
being too ignori'.nt t«i etl'ift it in any other maimer. And, finally, bv the advice of
Gallio, and the h\. Ip of a ligion under his command, the wall of Severus vas reflored ^ j
a poor fecurity to the degenerate Britons after the retreat cf the Roman .

Proceed by the village of Wall, and from a rifing ground have a die view of the
river, now enlarged ly the waters of the South 'I'yne. Pafs by IkriniiJG;c, the houfo
of the late Dr. Jurin, the celebrated ikitural philolopher. In ancient tin; s St. John of
Beverley made the adjacent woods his retreat from the worM, which gav_ name to the
place. Ford tl 0 river ; the bjautiful bridge, lately fmiflied, having been 1 ept away by
the floods. E ter

Hexam, the Haguftald of Bede, and Hextoldcfham of the Saxons. Till the 3 '^d
of Henry "'^ 11. it was called a county palatine, but at that period was fl -ipped of its
power. In ancient times it was a manor belonging to the fee of York, w. jle prelates
had here a regality and |:reat powers. Their liberties were affirmed to t .em by the
King's coiMieil in parliament, in the aifl of Edward I , and by a claufe in tiie 13th of
Edward HI. h,\d jura nga/ia, and the right of levying tenths and liflecDths. The

• AuKuft 177c. t Capitollims, Vit. Anton Pii. c v.

% lilt Br r xix. I am indrtifcii lo Mr Harrifon of" Ncwcaflle for llie ftridlureon NeiiniuiJ,

^ Anmi<ii:iis ^lar^< lliriiu, lit) xxvi. c. ^. lib. xxviii. c. 3.

It Gild.fj r. iz. Lcrie, lib. i. «. 12. % Gildas, c. J4. Bede, lib. i. c. 12.

3 R 2 paiifli

.'ii/Vi

"fl

■i.ia

492

pennant's second tour in bcotlano.

parifli was :»lfo calloil llexamfliirc, havint,', till tlie 14 of Queen Eli^ahctl), bcca a dif-
tind (hire; but in that year was united with the county of'NorthuinbcrLuui.

'I'lie town is ancient, finely fcaled on the foiithern banks, confiftin^^ of abaiit five
thoufand inhabitants, whofc chief manufa6lure is that of fliocs and gloves, and it alfo
carries on a confiderable trade in tanning. IJut ilexluini, like many other places, nuilt
vaunt of the };lory of part, times : in that of the Romans, it was probably a llation, if
one may judge from tlic half-defaced infcriplions on certain flones that antiquaries have
dircoveied worked up in the walls of the vaulls of the church* ; the molt em'ious of
which is that infciibed with the name of the I'.mperor ].ucius Scptimius Sevtrus.
Antiquaries for a time univerfally agreed, that this jilace was the Axelodunum of the
Notitia ; l>ut Mr. Horfely, wilh nuich reafon, remows it to Burgh, and conje(^lures
that llcxham inir,ht have been the Epiacum of Ptolemy t-

Very early in the Saxon lime it grew dillinguilhed by iis ccdefiaflical fj)lendor.
Hexham and the adjacent countiy were part ol^ the crown-lands of the kings ol Nor-
thumbcrhiiid, and fettled by king Kgfrid, as dower on his (]\icen Ethelreda. Wilfrid |,
biihop of York, obtained from the king a grant ol it ; and here prevailed on him to
found r. bllhoprick, which A\w but fevcn prelates, being overthrown in liio Danifh wars,
about tlic vcar 821. But the !■ ngnificcnce of the church and monallery, founded liere
in 674, by Wilfrid, is fpoken of in the highefl terms by ancient writers, 'i'hey cele-
brate (he varivty of the buildings, the columns, the ornamental carvings, the oratories,
and the crypts ; they alio relate the pains he was at to obtain arlills of the greateft (kill
from di fie real parts boin at home and abroad. They memion the richncfs of covers
for the al'.ais, the gilding of the walls v.ith gc^ld anJ filver, and the noble library, col-
I'Cled witii amazing indui'lry : in few words, lay thcv, there was not fuch a church to
b.' found on this fiJe of the Alps. As this jil.icc futfered greatly by the barbarity of
the Daner, tlicre is no veflige of the ancient ehurcli. 'J'hc prefent building, which,
w!;en entire; was large and beautiful, is probably the work of I'homasthe IVcond arch-
biihopof York, to whicii fee it had been given by Henry I. The j)relate, (truck with the
dcfolaiion of the place, ellablilhed here in 1 1 1 3 a convent of canons regular of Au-
g'lUincs. '1 he architecture is mixed; has much Ciothie, and a little Saxon, and, in
one part, the narrow fharp-arclicd windows, all which bigan to be in ufe about tint
reign. 'Ihe towcr is large, and in the centre ; the church having been in form of a
Creek crofs ; but the welt end was quite dciuoliflied by the Scots in i 296. The town
was ai;'o plundered by David II. in 1346, but faved Irom the llames, as he intended it
iis a niagaziiie for provifions.

The infide is fupported by cluftercd jiillars, with Gothic arches ; the gallery above
t.pens with Saxon arehts, including in each two of the pointed kind, (^n the w(joden
ikreen before the choir is painted the dance of death ; in each ni.ce the meagre nionder
1- feii'.ing a character of every rank. Many other paintings, now much injured by time,
udorntd this part. Beneath the dance on a molding are twelve Iquare pieces of wood ;
(uriginally there were fourteen) on each is elegantly cut in relief and gilt, a certain
capital letter, and in every one a pretty cypher of other letters, which may be thus
read. '• Orate pro anima Domini 'I'hom : S. IVior hujus icde/ia: qui fecit hoc
«ipw." Jhe letters in italics are to fupply the parts, and arc conjectural to fupply the
fir.fe.

• H'lidly, 147. Gonlon, 183, iRy. | Hoiftlj-, IC9. 3(^9.

I I iMii Vila V Wilfridi, in Gale'i Collfi?>ion, iii. 62. iict n.-ic \\\ tlial inafrniTiccnt and accurate vork,
t!it HilKjrv of i.ly, p. 2 I, -2, by the Kcv, Mr. JBenlliam, to wlioni we are full iiidtbttd foi \.\\.t notice from
Richard «t H(xh:in.'5 u^count uf il.

The

I'ENNAKl's SECOyi) TOUK IN SCO! I AND.

493

The tomb of Alfwald I. king of Northumberlatici, afladinated in ySS, by Si^^ga one
of his nobles, is (liewn beneath ;u) arch, ist the foulh end of the north tad aifle.

An lUnfravil lies recumbent, ci'uf'>-lef^g'd, the privilege of Croifaderp. On
liis fliiolJ are the arms of tlie fimily, wlio were gjcat benefaftors to this abby.
Here is aifo nnotbcr knight, wiih the lam? mark of holy > jal, mifcalled the Duke of
Soincrrct, beheaded here ia 16.1 ;. lUit the arms of the fnield, three gerbcs, fliew that
the deceafcd \ras not a I'u.uifort, who quartered the arms of Kngland and Fiiiiicc.

In the choir is a be.uiiifiil oratory, of (lone beiow and wood iibnve, moft cxqiiifitely
carved, rov/ converted into a pew. Near that is the tomb of a RtHgi.->Lis, probably a
prior. vVbove, in a Oii 1.1, are, ia Saxon chara'fters, the L'ttcr.v 11. 1., thefe being in
many parts of th^ building, are probably the iniiia's of fome of the pious bi.nef.i{lorb ;
and about the fides are feveral mod ridiculous figures, the product of tlie fj)ortivc
cliillel of tl\e fculptor : an iipe ntrin^ on a Roue with its hand to its mouth ; a d?formed
figure in a clofe hood with a pendent taflll, and a hare, or fome other animal, in his
bofom, ;nd other mondrous engravings of no meaning or moment *. Againd a pillar
is a ridiculous figure of a barefooted man, with a great club, i^erhaps a pilgrim.

Here is prefervcd the famous friddol, or dool of peace ; for whofocvcr took poflef-
fion of it was fure of remillion f. This jviace had the privilege of a fanftuary, which
was not merely conllncd to the church, but extended a mile four ways J, and the
linuis each way marked by a crofs. Heavy penalties were lcvi.>d on thofe who dared
to violate this fanctuiiry, by feizing on any criminal within the jirifcribed bounds ; but
if they prefumed to take lilm out of the dool §, the offence was not redeemable by
any fum j it was cdeemed botolofs, beyond the power of pecuniary amends; and the
ollenders wei'e Lft to the utmod feveiity of the clmrch, and fullered excommunication,
in old times the mod terrible of ])unifhmenls.

I'art of the monadory dill reniains habitable. It was granted, on the diffjlution to
Sir R'.ginald C'arnaby ; afterwards palled to the Fenwicks, and laRly to the Ulackets.
'Ihe convent gate is entire, and confi is of a fine round arch. This is evidently of a
nmch older date than ;iny c f the prcfent remains of the convent. It is of Saxon archi-
tcOure, and pi.rhaps part of the labours of the great Wilfrid.

'J'he town-houlc i-i luilt over an antient gate ; beyond that is an old fquare towur,
of three floors. The lowed hac ben -aMi it two dreadful dungeons, which, in this thievilh
neighbourhood, bed r>' the acct.nion, v. '.re fuldum untenanted.

'1 b.e littl; rivulet 11 :xold, v.iiich runt; ly tiie lovvn, v\oulJ not nierit mention, if it
did not give name to tiv, place.

Ocl. 4. Proceed eJiduard. About t'lrcc iniles from Hexham, crof;- the DivJI, on a
1 'ridge of two arch.'s. On an iii\iiience is a fqaare tower, peiping pidurelqiijly above
the trees. This w^s part of the cRate ol th ■ ui.furtunate Karl of Derwentwat-r, now
veded in Greenwich Iloljital. On the '-a' k;^ 1 1 this river was fought, in 1463, the
bloody battle of Hexham, between the Lancadrians and Yoikids, in which the firlt
w.re defeated. The inei-k Henry fled with fj grtat precipitation as to lofe his abajock,
tr cap fet with jewils, wiiicii was carried to his rl\al at York. His fajtidul conlort
Margaret betook herlell, with the infant prin:e, to a neighbou.'ing lorcd, where flie

• Since tilt publii-atiiin of tiiy fiift edition I procuicil drHwliiprs of tlicfe fi.;uri'S wl.i.h I ovt'ilocked v\lii;n
1 was at IK'xliain, and too); the aceuiinl I'f llieiii hy iiii.iiiioniiuliui!. On Ti'^lii uf liie dra\.vi;i^s 1 at once
f.1* tliit tliey weft no more t'nnii wliat I ii.eiuioii alj')ve

■\ III tlie ii;iiillir at lirve'Uy ij a llool ot ttiis kind, c.ilkd by th. f.i.ne name, and Jcliiicd for the fame life.

\ htevc'is's Colli in. llti,;dule, ii. 13-.

^ RicliaiJ of llcNli.ini, n-i qucjtv-J by Suvily, liiil. Cli. 17;.

4 \^as

^ ''n

■ M

"'! 'It

■■':"%

ill

4ii4

rr.NNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

was funounclcd with robbers, and fpoilcd of her jewels ;uilI rings. The darkncfs of
iho iii;:,Iit, and a difpute that arofe ainonj; the banditti about the divifion of llic bonry,
pave luT opponunity of making a ftcond efcapo; ! \it while flic wandered, opprell" d
with hunger and fatigue, anotlier robber approached with a drawn fword ; her fpirit
now proved her fafery. She advanced towards tiie man, and preP nting to him llic
youii;^ prince, called out to him, " Here, friend, I-cominit to you tlie proleclion of the
Im of your King." 'i lie m:;n, perhaps a Lancafbian, reduced by necfiiiy to ih

courfc of l.fe, was .'-.fTefted with her gal! nt conliiience, devoted iiimfclf to her fervic
and coiu\ali'(l his royal charge till he found opportunity of conveying them beyond the
reach of their cneinicF.

Ciofs at this place the Watling-Hreet, which runs direclly to Fbchcd-r, the anci.nt
Vindon-,ana ; pal's the 'I'yne, on a bridjre of feven avclu-^, near whole Dortl^rn end is
Corbridge, a Iniall town, but formerly confider.\b!e, for 1, eland fays, that in liis time
Were the names of dive-fe llrects, and great tcjkiT.;; of old fouiKhiiions. K,\u- Cor-
briiige is Clolchclter, a Ration on the line of the \^a I, the old C'/rllopiuim ; the Ko-
man way pidfes through.it, and was cor.linued on jIk ot!u-r flioio by a 'oridge, whi'i'e
ruins Leiand was iriformcd of by tlie vicar (f the niuilh. Mr. Ifoiiky acquaints us,
that cvi n in his time fome vuligcs wire to b.' ioui*. A linlj a' ove is ilie fmall
flrcain of Corve f. Lek'.nd, p. ; i c, oi the fetoiui vulume of his C'olkt'iai.ea, relates,
tliat King .lohr,, when hv v.;.s at I]cxli::ni, cauifd };ix;;t Aarch in be niaUealti-r a trca-
fure, he L d h(.;;rd Wi.s hiiiuen here, liut to lui« i.liiapp<''in!ment fou d i.oiliing but

ones-

Id b.-

wiri', iron, an

d lead. Abundance cf anticpiary treaiures have I

M'cn

found lure fiice : am.iiig oilicrs, an infciipiion lo Maicus Aurclius y\utoninut. ; a
<>thcr tonnntn.oraiing a ctjhort, tkat nr.uie part ct the wal; b^r" is alio a figiu-e of
Yi.5to!V, liikl;ngin Inr hai;d, I think, a f1.:g. Ikit the tnoli cuiious amiiiuiii.s are the
two Gruk iiilciiption'-, and the fiber p-laie found in the adj xcnt giounds. I he in-
fcri]>tions aru o:i two idi. rs. 'l\\c lirli i> nu'iition-d, in the luimer pan t^f th's j ,iirney ;
ai^d w:'s creded bv PuIchL-r to iIk' g.>dde!'s Allaite. 'J he other, in thi- pi Ifiriou v{
the Duke oi Ncrthun-beilai.d, is adurnid en cue fide wih a wreath, on ihf odier, with
i.n ox'sluad and a lu.ife ; amlirt-ded, astlu; iulcriplion iiviports, by ih.c chief jiricllefs
Diud'ua, tu ihc lAriun llercu!(.f J.

'I'he other a!.iii;iiity, which is alio in his Grace's cabinet, is of inatcblefs heautv and
rity : it is a pi.cc of plate, ol tiie Wiight ol a hundred aiid h'rty-ii.ht ounces.

cf an oblong ierni, twenty inchts by filiedi $, with a inargiu crrichMl wuh

running
tl

fob

re i>.

\]i)v Ici.ves and gra}

rare"!

'lie- l.illi w is about an inch beneath. In

a file i ikn.blagi' oldeiliis. /\|olo :;j"ar> fill, (land i'g at tl

e door fi

tin pk", wi.h wriaihed pillars, wJh c;'pu..i.s d il,e' Ivaves eil Acai.iluis, In one luuid
hks bow, in il.o (iilier a k.ui\l bi.incli. I'is tut Ihind <m a keptrc, aiul rear that I
)\rt reds ag aii.ll < lic <f ilie iihinn:£. Iknenin l.ini i& a lunliower, the emblem of

fa
is
n's

}'i.cbu^, ai.u a •.■liiLn

ihu

le'.b ton

le to liis chaiiit.

Ac f: Plal)i

:iJ.(l,

l-'.ll

it n<ni^ (MX J ha J

j I ffli II J HI : J ItJ

It I eUiii iliili . Ill uh .>.\e

Cl.AlM MN \!. roiif. ITcitoti

VcPa fits r.(xt to 1 ini, veiUdind cioailitd with a long re be ; Ijcr baek bans aj aii.ft a
r.)i.i.d J illar, wiih agleLc cii thctcp, and nndei l.er the uh..r, iLuiing wuii eleinal i.re.

Il<

• Mill V I 7

P J^'

T Ibul.
Ai.Iii

uit 'i ( in. \ol. II. ( 7, (j'' . \<

1 I:!' i:iiC':i<'.iuii i» bciic«ni ifoiti ili,- lizriiii: Mr. Id j^ii Galc'i. »ietiui.i, ai il dif [-ri'd by Mr Wil.

. liolK

Ccrc's

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND,

495

Ceres (lands next, with her hair turned up, and tied behind ; over her forehead a
leaf, an emblem of viii^etiition, aijd in one hand a blunted fpear. Her rube and atti-
tude an; elegant. '1 he oth-r hand points tn ht:r uecU, avd palles thn.utrh a pendent
fillet, han^^ini; below her breat, ]ija->ath her feet, atul that of the fucceeding
fi;;ure, arc two ears, perliapa of corn, but fo ill executed as to leave the matter in
doubt.

Minerva is placed with her hack to Ceres. Her figure is by no means c'l'.iivocal : her
liclmct fptar, (hield, and the head of M.dufa on her brea't, lulficifiitly murk the god-
dels. Ker ri,^ht Inmd is lifted up, as if pointinr^ to another fi^nire, that of Diana,
rireflld and armed for the chace. llcr loi\er garment is Ihort, not reachin"- toner
kne." ; over that flows a mantle, falling fo the middle of her legs, and hanging gracefully
over one arm. Her ligs drefled in bulkijis :

T.ili.t fiKti!C\i |jii)i;'.nitiii crur.i Diars
Cujii ktj'iiuir loiics, furtior ipi.i Jcras.

One hand extend.s her bow tcw:u->!s Minerva, the other holds an arrow ; between them
is a tree branch-i.g our both ot ihem, with feveial birds perched on it ; ;.mong ihem
that of Jiive, iiiimediaii. ly ov.r tue head of Minerva, pvrijaps fo mark hjr as the
daughter of that diiiy. On the fiJe next to Diana is an altar, with a fmall globular
body on it ; probably as tuy learned antiquary imagines, //A/zh/h^ f.v///-r-i?, ??ic/!e et ch'j.
C)ne kg of that god.kfs is placeil over a rock, on v\hol'c lide is ;,n urn, with a co-
pious llream llowing from it. 1 he rock and tree recal into Mr. Gale's mind, the ad-
drefs of Horace, to the lame deity :

Mjiiiii.'in ciilloa ncinoruiiKHie vlrgi).

Between the rock and the altar of eternal fire h a grey hound, looking up to her,
and a d ad deer ; both b: Ionising to tli's goi.!d<.fs of the chace.

Mr. Gale imagines it to have I'een one or tne lances, or facrificing plates, fo often
mentioned by Virgil, on which were placed the lelRr vicl ms :

Dor.a Icruiit, cun. iilaiilcjui: uiitraiis la.,cil(iii aiaa.

Continue our ride by the lide of the I'yno Reach Bywcll, a fmall vi'lagp, feated
in a manor of the I'air.e name, wli.eh Guy de Baliol was invelled with bv William Ru-
fus ', and which Hugh de iiaiiol ii.-Id afterwards by the iervice of live knights' fees,
and finding thirty loidiers f)r ttie defence of NewcalLle upon Tyne, as his anctllors had
done from tin ir fi:(l piifK-irion |.

Near the village is ,i h.^Uv !ome modern houfe, tlie feat of Mr. Fenwick. A little far-
ther is a fquare tower, Iniiit by the Nevils, iuec>.llors to the iialiols, which was forfeited
by ihe rebellion of the Karl oi Weilmoreland, in the rt.ign of Ouecn llizabelh. At
tliat time it was not.'d fir a mauufacUire o^ lits, llirrups, and buckles, for the uieof the
borderers. At (he lame time. Inch was the uidra|ipy fituation of the place, that the in-
habitants, through fear of the fhievis of 'I'ynedale, were obliged nightly, in fuinmer
as well as winter, lo bring their cai'.le and Iheep into tne itreet, and lo keep watch at
the end ; ami wht n the enemy approached, to make hue-and-ciy to rouze the pjoplo
to (ave their property |. As tins w.is a dangenuis county to travel through, the te-
nmtr-ot every manor w vre bound to gu.u\l the jiuige th.iough the preciu.-is, but no
farther, i.ord chief judice Nordi deicnbcs his attendants with ions] beardf,i]ioit cloaks.

Diigilait's Barun. i ^jj.

j- Dlounl'ii Aiicitnt Tenures, 14.

X Wallis, ii. 14;'

fill

.'if.t

long

■m
Iff

'■,m

456 pennant's SECONO tour in SCOTLAND,

lonj; baikot- hiked broail fwonl?, hangiiifr from bro;ul belts, and mounteil on little horfjs,
I'o that their legs and fwords touched the ground at every turning. His lord(hip alio
inforir.s us, that tlu^ flierill' prefentcil his train wiiii arms, i. e. a dagger, knife, penknife,
and fork, all together *.

A little beyond BywcU arc the piers of an old bridge. I have been informed that
vorknicn have remarked, that thefe piers never h.ul any fpring of arches, tiic fuper-
flruchire therefore mull have been of wood. Two or three miles fiirther is the village
of Ovingham, in which was a cell of three bl.ick canons f, belonging to the monallcry
of Hexham, founded by IJmfranvil, baron of Prudliow, the ruins of vvhofe calUe make
a tine objcd on the oppolitc bank of the river. This family came into England with
^ho Conqueror, who bellowed on Robert witli the Beard the loniihip of Riddcfdale, to
be held t'ov ever by tlie fervice of defending the country againil; tiiieves and wolves witii
the fame fword with which William entereil Nmthnmbcrland J, and the barony of
Prudhow, by the fervico of two knights f-c;; and a half. Odoncl de IJmfranvil, in 1 174,
lupportod in this calllo a ficgo againil Wil.iam I. of HcotlanJ, wlio was obligoil to retire
from leforo the place, but probably not witliout damaging the callle ; for we tind this
fame Odonel accufetl of opprcfling ami plundering his neighbours in order to repair
the roof. It continued in the family till the reign of Henry VI., when on the death of
the lait it fell by entail to tlv §. Tailboys, a Ihorc-lived race; for on the execution of
•Sir "William, after tlie battle of Ilexhim, it became forfeited to the crown. 'I'he Uuke
of Northumberland is tii- prefent owner; his right is derived from the Pcrcies, who
poflefl'.'d it for fome ages (admitting a few interruptions from attainders, to which the
name was fubjed), but from which they had the merit of emerging with fingular
honour.

RiJe for fome miles along the rail-road?;, in wliich the coal is conveyed over to the
river, and pals by numbers of coal-pits. The whole road from Corbridge is the moll
beautiful imaginable, on the banks of the river, v.hieli runs through a narro^v vale, iii-
dofed and highly cultivated. In fome parts the borders are compofed of meadows or
corn fields, flanked by flopcs covered with wood. In others the banks rile huldenly
above the water, cloathcd with hanging groves. The country is very populous, and
feveral pretty feats embellifli the prolpecls : the back view to the fouth loon alters to
barren and black moors, which extend far into Durham, and are, as I am informed,
alnioll pat!il Is.

Reach Newburn, a place of note preceding the conquelt. In thefe parts preiiiled
Copfi, created by William Farl of Northumberl.iiul, after expelling Ofulf, a governor,
fubllitutcd by IMorcar, the preceding I'larl. Ofulf being defeateil, and forced into
woods and defertod, gathered new forces, obligicl Copfi to t;ike refuge in the churcli,
vhich he let on fire, leizod him as h- fhunneil the fl.unes, and cut oil" his head j|.

In the lait ccr.tury this village was infamous for the defeat of the Englifli, in 164c,
by the Scots, vho pafl'ed through the de»'p river in the face of our army, drawn on the
oppofifc bank ready to receive them. A panic feized our torces and their commander ;
with this difleiciu;..', the troops were afliained of their llighr, and willied to repair their
difgrace, and to revenge it on a foe that hardly credit ;d its own fuccefs ; but the timid
general, uninfluenced by the fame fenfe of honour, never afterwards turned his face to
the enemy ^.

• Life nf I,(.r(! Keeper GiiilHforJ, I ^g, 140.
^ Clarciidjii, i. 144, Wliittlotk, 3;.

f T.e.nei's Mo^'all :?(;4.
I, Idtni III. [lait of tliisjoiunry.

VENNANT 6 btOOND 1\)UR IN SCOTLAND.

497

At this place quit the river, and after afcending a bank, reach the fine road that ex-
tends from Carlifle to Newcaille, almoft following the courfe of the wall.

At a mile's diflance from Newcaflle pafs over the fite of Condercum, the modern
BcViwel, where fevcral infcriplions have been found, prefcivcd in Horfely. The mofl
remarkable is the altar, dedicated to Jupiter Dolichcnus, who is fuppofed by antiquaries
to piVfide over, iron-mines *. Oppofitc to this place the Derwent difcharges itfeli into
the 'lyne.

Rea&h Newcaflle, a vaft town, feated on the fteep banks of the coaly Tyne, the Vedra
of Ptolemy, joined by the bridge to Gatefliead, in Durham, and appears as part of it.
The lowftr Itreets and chares, or alleys, are extremely narrow, dirty, and in general
ill-built ; confiding often of brew-houfes, malt-houfts, granaries, warehoufes, and eel-
lars. The keelmen chiefly inhabit the fuburb of Sandgate and the North-fhore, a mu-
tinous race, for which reafon the town is always garrifoned. In the upper pare are
feveral handfome Itreets.

The origin of this place is evidently Roman, like that of many of our great towns
and cities. This was the Pons ^lii, a Ration on the line of the wall, where the Ro-
mans had a bridge to the oppofite fliore. No altars or infcriptions are extant to prove
the name ; a great and populous town has covered the ancient fite, and deftroyed or
abforbed into it every veltige of antiquity. Some part of the wall, which pafled through
the fpace now occupied by the prefent buildings muft be excepted ; for workmen have
in the courfe of digging the foundations of new houfes, ilruck on parts of it. There
is alfo (hewn at Pandon gate the remains of one of the ancient mural towers ; and at the
Carpenter's tower was another. As old as Pandon gate, is a common proverb in thefe
parts, which fliews its reputed antiquity. The wall had paflfed from the weft, through
the Vicarage gardens, the Groat market, the north part of St. Nicholas's church, and
from thence to Pandon gate.

After the Romans had deferted this ifland, it is not probable that this ftation fliould
be entirely defolated ; but we know nothing relating to it from that period, for fonie
centuries from that great event, befides a bare name, Monk-chefter j which (hews that
it was poffeiTed by the Saxons, and noted fur being the habitation of religious men.
Thefe proved the vidims to the impious barbirity of fome unknown enemy, who ex-
tirpated throughout thefe parts every houfe of devotion. In all Northumberland there
was not a monaftery ; fothat in 1074, when Aldwhi, Alfvin,and Remfridft made their
holy vifitation to this place, they fcarcely difcovered even a church ftanding, and not a
trace of the congenial pietills they expefted to find. Their deftrudion muft have been
early ; for the venerable Bede, who died in 735, takes no notice of the place, though
he mentions Jarrow J, a convent, on the fouthern fide of the Tyne, not remote from
it. The ruin therefore of the place cannot be attributed to the Danes, whofe firft in-
vafion did not take place till after the death of that hiitorian.

It continued an inhabited place in the year loSo, when Robert Courthofe, fon to
William the Conqueror, returning from his expedition againft Scotland, halted here
with his army, and then built the prefent tower, that goes by his name ; and changed
at the fame time that of Monk-cheiler into Newcaftle, whether from the novelty of the
building, or in oppofition to fome ancient fortrefs, the work of the Romans or Saxons,
is not certain. From this time may be dated the importance of the place ; for the ad-
vantage of living in this border country, under the lecurity of a fortrefs, foon caufcd a

{ :

• Horfely, JOg.
t Hift. Eccl. lib.

VOL. III.

f Hollinftied, iii. p. ii.
c. SI. p. 310. Vita Cudbert^i, c. 35. p. 254.

3»

refort

■I

■I EU

¥■

h '■

I >

498 P£NNAI-)T*3 .SKCONli TOWR IN SCOTLAND.

refort of people. If it is true that David I. (who was poffefliHl of it as Earl ofNorthum-
berland) foundcii here two inonaflcvics and a nunnery *, it was a place of note before
the year 1 153, the time of that prince's death.

The walls of Ncwcafllc are pretty entire, with ramparts of earih within, and a fofs
without. Leland f informs us, that tliey were bec;un in the reign of b'.dward I., anit
completed in thatof Edward III. He afcribes the orii;in to the misfortune of a rich
citizen, who wi'.s taken prifoncr by the Scots out of the middle of the town. On his
redemption, he endeavoured to prevent for the future a fimilar difafter ; for he imme-
diately began to fecure his native place by a wall ; and, by his exam|)lo, the refl of the
merchants promoted the work; and it appears that in 10 lidward I. they obtained the
royal licence for fo falutary an end J. 'I'he circuit of the walls are rather more than
two miles ; but at prefent there are very confiderable buildings on their ouifides. All
the principal towers are round : there are generally two machecollated towers between
every two, which projcft a little over the wall.

Robert's tower was of great ftrength, fquare, and furroundcd with two walls ; the
height eighty-two feet ; the iquarc on the outfuie fixtv two by lifty-four ; the walls
thirteen feet thick, with galleries gained out of them : wiihin war a chapel. Not long
after the building it was be/icgcd, on the rebellion of Robert Mowbray ag.u'nft William
Rufus5, and taken. The town was taken by treachery by the Scots in i 135, or tiie
liril year of King Stephen, nor was it reftored to the Knglil'i before 1 156, when, at
Chelter, Malcolm IV. ceded to Henry II. the three northern counties. From that time
neither cadle nor town underwent any fiege, till the memorable one in 1644, when,
after a leaguer of two months, it w as taken by ftorm by the Scot?, under the Farls of
Callendar and Leven.

There were feven gates to the city : that of Pandon, o^* Pjmpedon, is moft remark-
able, leading to the old town of that name, united to N woalHein 1 299. It is laid that
the Kings ot Northumberland had a palace here, and that the houie was called Paniloi'-.
hall i).

This town was frequently the rendezvous of the Englifli barons, when fummoned on
any expedition againil Scotland; and this was alio the place of interview between tho
inonarchs of each kingdom for the adjulling of treaties. The Kings of England refkU'd
at the Side, an appendage to the caltle, fince called Lumley-place, being afrerwards tho
habitation of the Lords Lundits. The kings and nobility of Scotland rofided at the
Scotcii iifn ; the Earls of Northumberland at a great houfe of the fame name j and ihc
Nevils had another, flyled Wefhnorelanil place.

The religious houfeswere numerous: the moft ancient was a nunnery, contemporary
with the conque(l^,fo which Agas, mother to Margaret Queen of Scotland, an I Chrif-
tian her filler, retired after the death of Malcolm, at Air. wick *•. Near the dilVoIutii)ii,
here were ten nuns of the Benedidine order, whofe revenues amounted but to thirtv^
fix pounds per annum.

Poor as thefe filters were, they were more opulent than the Carmchtes, or white
friars, founded here by Edward I., whofe income amc)unted but to nine pounds eleven
and four-pence, to fuppcrt a prior, feven iriars, and two novices found there at the
Reformation If.

• Tatirrr. 30 r, Keith "f Lfl.ird's Ilinfran, v. i rj. J Cardnrr's Tlkgliili Ctievarrrs, c. iv

f li(jii:iif, ii'j. II lb. '3^1 '39. i T..nncr, 391. •• J.da'iil'* Cullclt. ii. 5^ 1.

t f Liuri.c 2H,

PENNANi's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND;

499

In the clofc of this houfc was a fraternity, ftyled the biv?thren of the penance of
Jefus Chrii>, or the brethren oi the fack, to whom Henry III. gave the place called
the Calparth.

The Doniinlrans had a houfe founded by Sir Peter Scot, firft mayor of Newcafllc,
and his fon, about the middle of the 1 3tii century. At the diflblution here were a prior
and twelve friars. The remains of this ho\ife are engraven by Mr. Grofe.

The Fraiicilcans, or grey friars, had an ellablifliment here, founded by the family
of the Carliols in the time of Henry 111. In this place Charles I. was confined after he
had put himlelf into tlie hands of his Scotch fiibjedts : part is Hill remaining, and with
fomc additional building, the refidence of Sir Walter Blacket. The famous Duns Sco-
tus, the Doctor Subtilis, was of this houfe. He died of an apoplexy, was too fuddenly
buried, and coming to life in his tomb, daflied out his brains in the lafl flruggle.

The monnflery of Auguftines was founded here by a Lord Rofs of Wcrk, in the reign
of lulward I.

When the grievous diftemper of the leprofy raged in thefe kingdoms the piety of our
anceftors eretled alyla for thofe poor wretches who were driven from the fociety of
mankind. Henry I. founded an hofpital here for their reception ; and fixed a mailer,
brethren, and filters ; but when this difeafe abated, the houfe was appointed for the
poor vifited with the peftilence ; a fcourge that heaven in its favour has freed us from.
Here were bcfides four other hofpttals, founded for the pious purpofes of redeeming
the captive, for the reception of pilgrims or travellers, for the relief of diftrefled clergy,
or the interring of the poor. Each of thefe in general the eftablilhment of individuals :
our prefent foundations the united charity of the mites of multitudes. How unequal
are the merits !

But the more modern charities in this town are very confiderable : firft, the general
infirmary for the fick of the counties of Durham, Northumberland, and Newcaftle,
which, from its inlUtution to 1771, has difcharged, cured, about thirteen thoufand
patients. The fecond is the lying-in hofpital, for married women ; and another charity
for the fupport of thofe who lie-in at their own houfes. Thirdly, a public hofpital, for
the reception of lunatics. Fourthly, the keclmen's hofpital, a fquare building, with
cloiflers, founded in 1702 by the poor keelmen, who allowed a penny per tide for that
purpofc. Bcfides thole are numbers of charity-fchools, and hofpitals for the reception
of the aged of both foxes.

The tower of St. Nicholas's church is very juftly the boaft of the inhabitants. Its
height is a hundred and ninety-four feet ; round the top are feveral moft elegant pin-
nacles, from whole bale fpring feveral very neat arches, that fupport the lanthorn, an
open edifice, ornamented with other pinnacles of uncommon tightnefs. The church
was originally founded in the reign of Henry I. The tower, built ia the time of Henry
VI. by Robert Rhodes ; and on the bottom of the belfry is an entreaty to pray for the
foul of tho founder.

The exchange contains variety of apartments, and alfo the courts of juflice for the
town. The front towards the river is enriched with two feries of columns, and is of
the architccliire of the period of James I. The builder, Robert Trollop, is buried op-
polite to it in the churchyard of Gatcflioad. His ftatue pointing towards the exchange
itnod formerly over his grave, with thofe lines under his feet :

IVrc lies Rolieit 'I'rollop,
\\''m iiijfic ydii (loiies roll-up.
WliMi (Icitli took his luiil-up,
ilio body fillfd tliis hulc-iip,

, 333 Newcaftle

• ■■;;i>

500

PRNNANTN SECOVD tour in SCOTLAND.

Newcaflfe is JIvidcti into four pnriihcs, with two chapels *, and about a dozen meet*
ing-houl'os, a d is n cuuuty containing a fm:)!! dilfriA of ton miles circuit ; a privilege
bellowed on it by Henry IV., rendering it independent of Northumberland. It fird
font members to pailiaiiient in the reign of Edward I. f, and was alfo honoured with
the i'word of rtate. It is a corp<jration, governed by a mayor, (heriff, and twelve alder-
men. Their revenues are confKlerable. An annual allowance is made to the mayor of
a thoufand pounds, beliJes a coach, furnished manlion-houfc, and fcrvants : he has alfo
extra allowances for entertaining the judges on their circuit, who lodge at the mayor's
houfe. The flicritf has aUb a handfome allowance for a public table. The receipts of
the corporation in Otlober 1774 were 20360I. 98. 8d. ; the dilburfements 19,445!. It
is reckoned that between this town and Gatelhead thure are thirty thoufand inhabitants,
exclufive of thole who live on each fide of the river, adjacent tothofe places J. ITie
exports are very confiderable, confilling of coals, lead, glafs, fait, bacon, falmon, and
grinding-flones. Here are not fewer than fixtcen glafs-houfes, three fugarhoufes,
great manufadures of (leel and iron, befides thofe of wrought iron at Swalwelt, three
miles up the river: alfo another of broad and narrow woollen cloth, which is carried
on with great fuccefs, and not fewer than thirty thoufand firkins of butter are annually
fent abroad ; and of tallow, forty thoufand hundreds.

The great export of this place is coal, for which it has been noted for fome centuries.
It is not exadly known at what time that fp cies of fuel was fird dug : it is probable
that it was not very early in general ufe. I'hat the Romans fometimes made ufe of it
appears in our former volume ; but Once wood was the fuel of their own country, and
Britain was over-run with forells, it was not likely that they would pierce into the bowels
of the earth for a lels grateful kind. But it was exported to foreign parts long before
it was in ufe in London ; for London likewife had its neighbouring foreds. We find
that in 1 234 Henry III. confirms to the ^ood people of Newcaftle the charter of his
father. King John, granting them the privilege of digging coals in the CalUe-moor, and
converting them to their own profit, in aid of their fee-farm rent of a hundred a year§ ;
which moor was afterwards granted to them in property by Edward III. The time of
the fird exportation of coals to London does not appear. In 1307, 35 Edward I.,
they were cnntid'. red in the capital as a nuifance ; for on the repeated complaints of
prelates, nobles, commons of parliament, and inhabitants of London, againd the dench
and fmoke of coals ufed by brewers, dyers, and other artificers, the King iffued out
his proclamation ag ind the ufe of them ; which being difregarded, a commiffion of
oyer anil terminer was itlued to punifli the difobedient with fines for the fird oftVnce,
and for the fecond, by the dodrudion of their furnaces ||. In 1379 we find that then:
ufe was not only tolerated, but their confumption made beneficial to the date ; for in
that year a duty of fixpeiice per ton each quarter of a year was impofed on fhips coming
from New-cadl ^. in 1421 the trade became I'o important as to engage the regula-
tions of governniint, and urders uere given about the lengths of the keels, fo that the
quantity of coal might hca'ceriained. from that period the commerce advanced con-
tinually. The prefcni itate may be colleded from the following view of the (hipping :

* If Gatrfticad is included, five pariiTies and fmirchapcN. "f Willifi, lii. 95 | Ilulton't Map, 177:.

() Andcilo;!'! Hill of Cuinmcrce i. 1 1 1 188. Hcirv 1 11 , ain<iiip[i)tlnrr privilfjijvs, granted by clisitcr
fo the mrrchanis of Kr^cultle and their litirs, that no Jew fliyuld (iay or dwell iu tdtir town. Madox,
Hid. Excli vol i. eJirioa i7''<y, \> 2.,';.

Stow'* Chruii.ioy. Prymic on Coke's luilitule, 182.

«f FocJcra, vii, 220.

Ships,

rVNNANT's SECOND TOUR tU SCOTLAND.

50ft

Ships.

35^5
363

Tons.
689,090
49,124

Chaldr. coals.
330,200
2 1 ,690

Cwt. lead.

»a3»37o foaft trade.
30,064 )rtign parts.

Tot. IQ48 7381214 35'>89o I53>434*

There are about twenty.four confiderable collieries, which lie at different diftancps,
frotn five to eighteen miles from the river. The coal is brought down in Wiiggons
along rail roads, and difcharged from certain covered places called Staiths, built at the
edge of the water, into the keels or boats, which have the advantage of the tide flowing
five or fix miles above the town.

Thefe boats are ftrong, clunify, and oval, and carry twenty tons a-piece. About four
hundred and fifty are conftantly employed : they are fometimes navigated with a fquare
fail, but generally by two very large oars: one on the fide, plied by a man and a boy ;
the other at the ftern, by a fingle man, ferving both as oar and rudder. Moll of thefe
keels go dow n to Shields, a port near the mouth of the river, about ten miles from
Newcaille, where the large Ihips lie ; for none exceeding between three and four hun-
dred tons can come up as high as the town. I muH not omit that the imports of this
place are very confiderable. It appears that, in 177 1 ,

810 Ihips, carrying 77,880 tons, from foreign parts.
140 18,650 coading trade.

were entered at this port ; and that the cuftoms for coal amount to 41,000!. per annum,
befides the 15,000!. paid to the Duke of Richmond, at one fhilling per chaldron on all
fent coaflways.

Leave Newcaft!e,and crofs the Tyne in the ferry-boat. IVIidway have a full view of
the ruins of the bridge, and of the deftruftion made by the dreadful flood of November
1771, which bore down four arches, and twenty-two houfes, with fix of the inhabitants : '
one of the houfes remained for a time fufpended over the water ; the flirieks of the
devoted inmates were for a long fpace heard, without the poflibility of affording them
relief.

This bridge was of ftone, and had flood above five hundred years. It confifted firft
of twelve arches, but by the contra£lion of the river by the quays on the northern fide,
was reduced to nine. The houfes on the bridge were generally built at diftances from
each other. About the middle was a handfome tower, with an iron gate, ufed by the
corporation for a temporary prifon. At the fouth end was (formerly) another tower,
and a draw- bridge.

By the ancient name of the flation on the northern bank. Pons ^lii, it is evident
that there had been a bridge here in the time of the Romans ; and I am informed that
there are ftill vcftiges of a road pointing direftly to it from Chefter-le-flreet. I
cannot help thinking that part of the Roman bridge remained there till very lately ; for,
from the obfervation of workmen upon the old piers, thofe, as well as the piers of the
bridge at Bywell, feem originally to have been formed without any fprings for arches.
This was a manner of building ufed by the Romans ; witnefs the bridge built over the
Danube by Trajan f, at Severin, twenty Hungarian miles from Belgrade, whofe piers I

* Hutton't Map, 1772. f Brown's Travtl«> 3. MoBlfaucon, Antici. iv. part a. p. 1B5. tab. esr.

Drownj by mil\ake, attributes it to Adrian.

believ6

'.i

^'1

i '

^9^ Pi;NNANT a SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

believe dill cxid *. AJriaii war, probably ihe founder of the briJc[o at Ncwcaflle, which
was called afttT his family naiin- I'ous iElii, iti the fame manner as Jerulalem was ilyled
^lia Capitolina, and the panu-s he indftutcd at Pincum, in Mcvfia, vEliana I'incenfia.
The coins difcovered on pulling down fomc of the piers, in 1774, confirm my opinion.
Several were difcovered, but only three or four refcued from the hands of tlie workmen.
All of them arc coins pofleriurto the time of Adrian, probably dcpofited there in fome
•later repairs. One is a beautiful Fauftina the elder, after her deification : her forehead
is bound with a fmall tiara ; her hair full, twilled, and dreflTed a la modcrne ; round is
infcribed " DiTa Fauftina." On the rcvcrfe is Ceres, with a torch in one hand, and
cars of corn in the other : the infcription, " Augufta, S. C."

The next has the laureated head of Antoninus Pius. On the revcrfe, Apollo, with
a patera in one hand, a pledrum in the other; the legend fo much defaced as to bf
illegible.

The third is of Lucius Verus (like that of Fauftina, after confccration). On the re-
verfe is a magnificent funeral pile, and the word, *' Confccratio, S. C"

The original fuperftrufturc of this bridge was probably of wot)d, like that over the
Danube ; and continued, made with the fame material, fur feveral centuries. Notice
is taken of it in the reign of Richard I., when 1 hilip Poidit rs, bifliop of Durham, gave
licence to the burgefTes of Gaiefliead to give wood to whomfoLver they pleafed, to be
fpent about the river Tyne ; which is fuppoled to mean in the repairs of the bridge ami
quay on the part belonging to Durh iin ; for one third belongs to the biihop, and two
to the town: fo that, after it was dellmyed in 1248 by a furious fir.', the bifliop and
the town united in the cxpence of building the (tone bridge, of which this calamity was
the origin, 'I'he prelate (Walter Kirkhain) h id the advantage in this ; for, armed
with fpiritual powers, he iifued out induigenciis fiom all penances to every one tliat
would afllft cither with money or labour. The town alio applieii to other l)ifljops for
their aHidance in promoting fo good a work; and tliey, in conlLquence, granted their
indulgencies : but then the clergy of the north wire lireded by their areho'-uon, to
prefer the indulgencies of their own prelate to any other. In tliir end both pa' tics fuc-
ceedcd, and the money raifed was given to Laurenilus, mafler of the bridge.

The boundaries of the bridge were (Iridly jircu rved. F.dwnrd III. by writ, 1 ■^34,
forbids the mayor and flieriffs of Newcaflle to fufl'er their Ihips to lie on the foutliern
fide. And feveral other proofs may be brought of the itrict obfervance of thefe rights
of the bifhop. By the calamity of November i/lh, 1771, this part of the bridge was

• Severin is a r\!incd place, a few n-ilfs above tlie rrmains of Ti.ijun's hrM^e, wliicli arc flill cxiAiiig
about five Engliih miles he low Dcmirkapi, or tlic Iron Cafe, 'i'liis is a narrow iMfT.igc in tlie D.iniibr. A
(j'lartcr of an hour's walk from lliete nrnjiiu in an r>l<l niinfc! caitlc on tlu- iiotilirrn ftiDre j ami llie next
place below it i? railed Tchcriii-grad, or M.uirf)-i:.iilro. Coiiiil Marfipli, I'pi'^jr. Diimil), loin. ii p. 21.
t. X. mentions, thai the river at the place i« not quite icoo yatJj wult, and ihril the piiia lan he Iccii :it
low water only j the diftance of the two firft of them i'; of fc\cnt<tn fathoms ai il a half, auj liippormj^ all
tlie otheri to be equ.'-diilant, there rr.iift have bten twenty. three in all. The iiiiif.Muy foims t"> c ifill of a
flrong cement and a number of pehblt-f, faced with bricks ; and he ohfervtd fev<ral langes of fquarc holci,
which probably were praftifed in the pieri for the infertioii of oak limbers to tonn the brid^jr ii,ion, ivhi, h
had not the leaft fprings for arches. Captain de Schad, In tlie Andiian fcrvicc, who in the )t'ar 1740 na-
vifjated down the Danube, in the retinue of the ambaffador to the Porte, and Count UhKfcui. f.uv thifc
low piers of Trajan's bridge, near Tchernetz, probably the fiime place with the ahovc-mentioiiiJ Tclurni-
grad, and thought them to be of freeftone. Topowitih Enqu-'ries on the Sta, \i. 20^ and 241. Niclujlas
Ernft Kleeman, a merchant, found thefe pjer» ftill exiftinjj in the year I76K; but tiitnks the work looked
more like rock* wafhedout by the ftream than like jiiiri ; tlmu/jh he cunlifrea to have I'cin fonic rn.ifonry
upon the northern fliore, confifting of brick and ficirtonc, joint d by a 11101 tar as haid as the lloiicj ihcni.
ftlves. N. ¥.. Kleenuin's Journey through Ciim Tariary and Tuikey, i;6b • 1770.

greatly

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLANlJ.

501

preafly dnmapcd. An aft was tlicrcforc pafTod this year, to enable the prefent birtiop,
and his fucccnbrs, to laife a fum of monry by annuities equal to the piirpol'e. Crols tliu
uiitor, and land in the bifhoprick of Durham.

Enter Gatcfhcad ; a confidcraMe place, built on the fteep banks of the fouthcrn fide
of the river, containing about five hundred and fifty honfes. Camden I'uppofes it to have
been the r.nrient Gabrofcntum, and it retained part of the name in its prefent Goaflhead,
as ifdirived from tlie Brilifli GalV, a goat. Mr. llorlelyjullly imagines this place tc/
have been too near to Pons MYu for the Romans to haveanotlicr nation hero, therefore
removes it to Diiiinburgh. It appears to me to have been very little altered from the
old Saxon nftme Geats-hcvod ; or, the head of the road : and that it was fo ilyled
from being the liead of the Roman military way which thofe new invaders found there.

It was a place eminent for ccclefiaOical antiquity. Bede mentions under the year
653, Uttan, brother of Adda, who had been abbot of a numaltery here * ; but no re-
liqaes of it now exifl. Here are the ruins of a beautiful chapel fj belonging to an hofpi-
t;d dedicated to St. Edmund, wl'.cn; ff,ur chaplains were appointed. 'I'he founder
w IS Nicholas Farnham, Bifliop of Durham, about the year 1 247. In the reign of Henry
VI. it was granted to the nuns of St. Bartholomew, in Newcallle, and in that of Ed-
w;ird VI. to the mayor and burgefl";;;; of NtwcafUe. Here was befides another hefpita),
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, in the bi ginning of the reign of Henry III, to whicli
Henry de Kcrlinton gave a farm, to hnd u chaplain, and maintain three poor men.
This was re-founded by James I. ii\ 1610.

Hugh Pudfey granted to the burgelVes of Gatefliead liberty of foreflage, on paying a
fmall acknowledgement. Edward VI. annexed this place to Newcaftle j but his fuc-
ceflor Mary reflorcd it again to the church of Durham.

Pals over a barren common, fidl of coal-pits ; then, through a rich country, inclofed
and mixed with wood. Defccnd into a rich hollow ; reach the fmall town of Cheller-le-
Ifrcet, the Cimeaceflre of the Saxons: a fmall town, with a good church and finefpirc-
Within are rang-d in nice oriler, a complete ilries of monuments of the Lumley family,
from Hie founder Liulplnis, down to John Lord Lumley, who collcdted them from old
monafleries, or cauled them to be made a-new, and obtained, in 1594, a licence from
Tobias Matthews, bifliop of Durham, for placing them there. Over each is an infcrip-
tion, with their names or hiltory. The molt remarkable is that of Liulphus, an Anglo.
Saxon of dilUndion, who, during the diitraftions that reigned on the conqueft, retired
to thefe parts, and became fo great a favourite with Walcher, bifliop of Durham, as to
raife the envy of his chaplain Leofwin, who villainoufly (faufed Liulphus to be murdered,
by one Gilbert, in his houfe near Durham. The bifliop lay under fufpicion of conniv-
ing at the horrid deed. The friends of Liulphus rofc to demand juftice : they obtained
an interview with the bifhop at Gatefliead ; but the prelate, inftead of giving thcdefired
fatisfailion, took refuge in the church with the two offenders. On which the enraged
populace, fird facrificing Gilbert and the bifliop, fet the church on fire, and gave the
del'erved punilhmcnt to the original contriver of the mifchief.

In the Saxon times Chefler-le-flrcet was greatly refpcfted, on account of the reliques
cf St. Cuthbert, depofited here by bifliop Earduff, for fear of the Danes, who at tha«r
time (about 884) ravaged the country. His Ihrine became afterwards an objeftofc
great devotion. King Athelflan, on his expedition to Scotland, paid it a vifit, to obtain>
by interccflion of the faint, fuccefs on his arms; beftowed a multitude of gifts on the
church, and direded, in cafe he died in his enterprize, that his body fhould be interred

* Lib, ill. c. 31,

t Engraven by Mr. Crofe,

t)iere>

$04

rr.NKANT S SECOND T00» IN SOOTLANO.

there. I mud not omit, that at the faiuc time that this, place was honoured with tlie
remains of St. Cuthbcrt, the biflioprick oi Limlcsfain was removed here, and endowed
vith all the lands between the i'yne and the Were, the prci'ent county ol Durham. It
was (lylcd St. Cuthbcrt's patrimony. 'I'hc inhabitants had great priviiej^es, and alwayii
thought themfelvcs exempt from all military d\ily, except that of ddLniliiig the body of
their faint. The people of the north claimed this exompiiun, on account of their beiji}{
under a continual nccellity of defending the marches, and oppofinj^ the incurfions of
the Scots. '1 he H^me excufe was pleaded by the town of Niiwcaille for not fiiuling
members to parliament. Rymer* produces a dircharf!;c from Henry III. to Robert
bifliop of Durham, Peter de IJrus, and others, of iiavinj; pcrtormtd the military fcrvicc
they owed the king, for forty days, along with his Ton Kiiward. 'llu.y, with the rell of
this northern trad, allertcd that they were Hali-wcrke folks, tliat they were enrolled for
holy work ; that they held their lands to defend the body of the (aint ; and thofe in
particular in his neighbourhood, were not bound to rnarcli beyond the confines of their
country. In facl, CheHer le-llreet was parent of the fee of Durham ; for when the rc-
hques were removed there, the fte, in 995, followed them. Taruu r fiys, that probably
a chapt»»r of monks, or rather fecular canons, attended the body ai tl'.is place from its
firft arrival : but bifliop Beke, in 1286, in honour of the laiiit, made the chujch colic,
giate, and cllablilhed here a dean, and fuitable ecclefiaftics j and, among other privi-
leges, gives the dean a right of fifliinp on the Were, and the tythe of fi(h f.

At a fmall diftance from the town, (lands l.umley calUe, the ancient feat of the name.
It is a fquare pile, with a court in the middle, and a fquare tower at each corner ; is mo.
dernized into an excellent houfe, and one of the fu-ais of the Farl of Scarborough. It
is faid to have been built in the time of Kdward 1. by Sir Robert de I.uniley, and en-
larged by his fon Sir Marmaduke. Prior to that, the tamily refidence aas at Luinley,
(from whence it took the name) a village a mile fouth of the caftle, where arc remains
of a very old hall houfe, that boafts a greater antiquity. The former was not pro.
perly callellated, till the year 1392, when Sir Ralph ^^the firfl Lord Lunilcy ) obtained
from Richard II. " Licentiatn callrum fuum de Londey denovo ;idificandum, niuro
de pctra el calce batellare et kernellare et callrum illud fic batellatum, ct k( rnellatum
tenere, &c." This Sir Ralph was a faithful adherent to his unfortunate fovereign, and
loft his life in his caufe, in the infurn-ftion, in the year 1400, againft the ufurping
Henry. There are no dates, except one im a lqu.irc tower; 1. L. 1570, when, 1 prc-
fume, it was re-built by John Lord Luii.ley.

The houfe is a noble repofitory ot portraits of perfons eminent in the flxteenth cen-
tury.

The brave, impetuous, prefuming, Robert, Earl of EfTex, appears in full length,
drefied in black, covered with white embroidery. A romantic nobleman, of parts with-
out difcretion ; who fell a facrifice to his own paHions, and a vain dependance for fafety
on thofe of an aged queen, doting with unfeafonable love ; and a criminal credulity in
the infinuation of his foes.

Sir Thomas More ; a half teagtb, drelTed in that plainnefs of apparel which he ufed,
vhen the dignity of office wMbid afide : in a furred robe, with a coarfe capuchin
Mpu i^Ie was the moft virtuous, and the greatell chara^er of his time ; who, by a cir-
euBiftanoe that might humiliate human nature, fell a vidim for a religious adherence to
lus own opinion ; after being a violent perfecutor of others, for firmnefs to the didatcs
•ftheir own oeaftience. To AkU incou^lencies are the bed of mankind liable !

• fitultw, i. »f J.

f Dugdale, Mon. it. pait. 11. p. 5.

The

»£NNANT*I BRCOKD TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

50J

The pnllnnf, flfcomplinicci, jxHtical F.arl (if Surrey ; in black, with a fwovJ and il.ig-
gcr, tluulatc 1545- 'I'hc orniitiKiU (lays Mr. Walpole) of a boirtcrous, yet not iin-
pnlinifcl ct'Urt ; a \ii^im to a jealous lyrant, and to family difcord. The articles al-
It'df^c'd aj^ainfl liiiii, and his conviction, arc llic fliiitno of the times.

A portrait of a lady in a finqiilar ilrcfs of bhuk and gold, with a red and gold petti-
coat, dated >5^)C. '1 his is called I'di/abctli, t'liid vifi' ol I'.dward Karl of Lincoln, tliL*
fair Geraldine, celebrated fi liij;lily by the ]';,iil of Surrey ; but fo ill-lavoiired in this
piihire, tluit I iii'.ll i;iveit to his lirll wifi-, I'.li/.abeth IMoiuit. (Jeraldine wastheyoun^
wife ofhis olil a ,c. Her j)ortrait at Woburn reprefcnis her an objed worthy the pen
of the amorous Surrey.

Ambrufe Dudley, I'.arl of Warwick, fon of tlio j;ioat Hudley, Duke of Northumber-
land His dn.l's a bonnet, lurre I cloak, fmall mil', and pendant George. This
peer followed the fortunes of his fath r, b'lt was received into mercy, and rcdored
m blood ; wascnateil Karl of Warwick iiy Ouecn I'.lizabetb, and proved a gallant and
f.iilliful fubj(d. He died in ijSy, and lie;; under an elegant brafs tomb in the chapel
at Warwiek.

Sir William IVter, or Petro, native of D.'vonfli'n', fellow of All-Souls college, and
afii'rwards feeretary of (late to four princes ; lleiu'y Vlll. Edward VI. Mary and Eliza-
beth. His prudence, in maintaining his poll in reigns of Inch dilVerent tempers, is evi-
dent ; but in that of Mary lie attended only to politics ; of Mlizabeth, to religion *.

The lirlt Karl of Heiiford, engraven among the illullrious heads.

A haU-lengih of the famous eccentric phyrician and chyn\i(l of the fifteenth century,
Philip Theojihraihis Paracellus Bombafl de Ilohenheim : on the pi(^ure is added alfo
tile title of Aurei'lus. The cures he v.rought were fo very furprifing in that age, that
he was fuppofed to have recourfe to fupernatural aid ; and probably, to give greater*
authority to his pradlee, he niighr infuuiatc that he joined the arts medical and magical.
He is reprcfiited as a very handl'ome man, bald, in a dole black gown, with both hands
on a great fvvord, on whole hilt is infcribcd the word Azot. This was the name of his
fanii iar fpirir, that hj k' pt in prifon in the pummel, to confuU on emergent occafions.
IJutler humouroully defcribes this circumflance :

Dombaftiis kfpt a dtvilV bird
Mult in the |)iiniiiHl ot Ult Iwoi-d ;
'I'liat taiiglit liiin all the tiiiiniiin jjranks
Of pull or luUiu- moiiiilclianks |-.

A head of Sir Anthony Brown, a favourite of Henry VlII. with a bufliy beard, bon-
net, and order of the garter. He was mall' r of the horfe to that prince, and appointed
by him one of the executors of his will ; and of the council to his young fuerelior.

Two lull lengths of John Lord Lumley : one in rich armour; a grey beard; dated
1 ^88, JKt. 54. the other in his robes, with a glove and hanvlkerchief in om hand ; a
little black fcull cap, white beard ; dated i5qi. This, 1 believe, was the performance
of Richard Stevens, aa able (latuary, painter, and medallilt, mentioned by Mr. Wal-
pole |.

This illuftrious noblctnan reflorcd the nionuiren's t'lat arc in the neighbouring
church, was a patron of learning, and a great colieclor nt i o.iks, alliltcil by his l)rother-
iri-law, Humphrey Lhuyd, the famous antiquary. Tiic books were r.ltcrwards pur-

• Piincc's Woitliies of Devoiifllire, 498.
J A need. l'aiinii)g, i, lOl.

vol.. in.

•\ HuJibras, pait li. c. ill.

3 T

chafed

lit.

eoo

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

chafed by James I. and proved the foundation of the royal library. Mr. Granger fays>
that they are a very valuable part of the Britifli IMufeum.

His firll wife, Jane Fitzallan, daughter of the F.arl ot Arundel ; in black robes, with
gloves in her hand. She was a lidy of uncommon learning, having tranflated, from
the Greek into Latin, fonv^ of the orations of Ifocratcs, and tiie Ijjliii^ou'a of l''urii)ides
into Englilli. She compliments her father hii^lily in a dedication to him, prefixed to
one of the orations, which In-gins, " Cicero, Pater hoiioratidimc, ilkiflris." She died
before him, and was buried at Ciieame in Surrey *.

The Earl himlelf, tlie lafl: of that name ; a tlirce quarters piece His valour dif.
tinguidied him in the reign of Ilenrv VIU. when he ran wiili his fquadron clofe under
the Wcills of BiHilogne, and foon reduced it. In the following reign, he oppofed the
niifuf "d powers of the unhappv protector, Somerfei ; and he declined coiuietlion with
the great Northumhcrhind. He fupported the ju(t rights of Queen IMary ; was im-
prifoned by the former, but on the revolution was employed to arred the ;d)jed fallen
duke. He was clafely attached to his royal millrefs by fimilitude of r'^ligion. In
his declining years, he aimed at being a liulbimd to Queen Elizabeth 1. Had her
majelly deigned to put herfelf under the power of man, {lie never would have given
the preference to age. On his difappointment, he went abroad j and, on his return,
firft introduced into England the ufe of coaches |.

A half length of that artful flatelinan, Robert Earl of Salufbury, i linifler of the laft
years of Elizabeth, and the firft of James I.

Thomas RatclilF, Earl of Su(rex,a full length ; young and handfome : his body arm-
ed, the reft of his drefs white ; a ftaff in his right hand, his left relting on a fword ; on
a table a hat, with a vaft plume. This motto, " amando et fidendo troppi, f m ruin-
ate." This nobleman was a confidcrable character in the reigns of Mary and Eliza-
beth ; frequently employed in embaflies; in both reigns deputy of Ireland ; and in the
firft, an adive perfecutor of the proteftants. He conformed outwardly to the relii;ion
of his new miftrefs ; was appointed by her prefident of the north, and commanded
againft, and fupprcflfed, the rebellion of the Earls of Northumberland and Weltmore-
land, notwithHanding he fecretly approved the opinions they armed in favour of. He
was the fpirited rival of Leiceftcr ; but the death of Suflfex left the event of their dif-
pute undetermined.

Leicefter. his antagonift, is here rcprcfented, in a three-quarter piece, dated 1587,
with the collar of the garter, and a ftaffin his hand.

A fine full length of the Duke ol Monmouth, with long hair, in armour.

A half length of Sir Nicholas Carew, mafter of the horle to Iknry VIII. There is
vaft fpirit in his countenance. In his hat is a white feather ; his head is bound round
with a gold it ufF handkerchief. He was beheaded in 1 539, as Lord Herbert fays §, for
being of council with the Marquis of Exeter, a favourer of the dreaded Cardinal I'ole,
then in exile. During the time of his confinement in the tower he imbibed the fenti-
ments of the reformers, and died avowing their faith ||.

Killegrew, gentleman of the bed-chamber to Charles II. in a red fafti, with his dog.
A nun of wit and humour ; and on that account extremely in favour with the king.

A good half length of Mr. 'Ihomas Windham, drowned on the coaft of Guinea, aged
42, M. D. L. a robuft figure, in green, with a red falh, and gun in his hand.

• She was dead before Dccviibci 30th, 1579, at appears by her falhet'i will. Vide Ballard's Britidi
Ladies, '6.

■t^ Camden'j Annals. Kcnnet, 383. | Idem. ^ Hill. Henry VIII. 439.

It doUiothcd, 94'j.

13 A three-

PENNANT'3 second tour in SCOTLAND.

507

A three-quarter length, unknown, dated 1596, aged 43, drefledin a ftrlped jacket,
blue and white ; black cloak and breeches, white ruff, gloves on, collar of the garter.

Here are fomc illuflrious foreigners. A half length, infcribed Fernandes de 'I'oledo,
Duke of Alva, in rich armour, with his baton ; fliort black hair, and beard. A great
olTicer, and fortunate till his reign of cruelty. He boafted, that he had caufed, during
his command in the Low Countries, eighteen thoufand people to perifli by the execu-
tioner. Pie vifited England in the train of his congenial mailer, Phillip II. I imagine
that this portrait was painted when the duke was young ; for I have feen one (fent into
England by the late Mr. Benjamin Keen) now in pofl'eilion of the Bilhop of Ely, which
rcprefonts him with a vafl flowing white beard.

A three-quarter length of Andrew Doria, the great Geonefe admiral, and patriot.
Tie is drefled in black, in a cap, a collar, with the fleece pendent ; a truncheon in his
hand, and a dagger in his girdle. View of (hips through a window.

Garcia Sarmeinta Cuna; a full length, in armour; a ruff, red (lockings, white
fliocs, a crofs on his brcall, a fpear in his hand. He was ''aptain of the guard to
Phillip II.

A three-quarter length of a man in a fcarlet robe; and over his left (houlder a white
mantle : a fcarlet cap tied in the middle, and open behind ; a narrow white ruff; and a
collar of the fleece. The fcarlet robe is furred with white : on it are feveral times re-
peated the words, Ah ! amprbis an ra jay ! Oh ! had I undertaken it !

In the hall is a tablet, with the whole hiftory of Liulphus, and his progeny, infcribed
on a tablet, furrounded with the family arms ; and round the room feventeen pictures
of his defcendants, down to John Lord Lumley, who feomed to have a true veneration
for his anceftors. Liulphus appears again in the kitchen, mounted on a horfe of full
fize, and with a battle-ax in his hand. When James I. in one of his progrell'es, was en-
tertained in this call le, William James, bifliop of Durham, a relation of the houre,ia
order to give his majelly an idea of the importance of the family, wearied him with a
long detail of their ancefl;ry, to a period even beyond belief. " O mon, fays the king,
gang na farther, let me digeft the knawledge I ha gained ; for, by my faul I did na ken
that Adams name was Lumley."

A little to the left, midway between Chefter le flreet and Durham, lies Coken, the
feat of Mr. Carr, a mod romantic fituation, laid out with great judgment ; in former
times the fcene of the favage aufterities of St. Godric. Bjfore his arrival, here had
been an ancient hermitage, given before the year 1 1 28, by Ralph Flainbard, bifliop of
Durham *, to the monks of l)urham, who permitted that holy man to make it his re-
fulence ; which he did, lirft with his filler f, and after her death ciuirely in folitude.

Attraded by the fame of the deceal'od, who died in 1 170, fome monks of Durham
retired here. Hugh Pudley, bifliop of Durham, made them an allowance, and granted
them by charter many privileges! ; fome call him founder of Finchale, the religious
houlo, \\hv>l"e ruins are Hill confulofable ; but Tanner § gives that honour to his fon
Henry, who, aht)ut the year 1 196, fottlcd here a prior and monks of the Benediftine
ordiTj fubordinatc to Durham. It maintained, at tho difloUuion, a prior and eight
monks ; when it was regrantcd to the dean and eli.ipter, its value, according to Dug-
dale, was 122I. I qs. 3d.

Proceed towards Durham. Near the city, on the right, flood Nevil's Crofs, ere^^cd
in memory of the lignal vidory over David Bruce of Scotland, in 1346. The army of

111!

• Duj^fJalc's Monail. i. 5 ; 2, where it FlanibaiJ's charter. He died in 1128.
■f- Gulielm. NeubrigieiUis, ii. c. :o. X Dcigd.ilf, i. jij.

3 T 2

§ "4'

the

5o8

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

the Fngli'fh was commanded by the two archbifliops and three? fiiffraganR, in con-
jun(ftion with fome noi l-j Iny-officers. The action was attended with great lol's to the
Scots ; wlio!"c king, after liiewiiig the utmoft valour, was taken priloncr by an Englifh-
xnan of the n;iine of Cophiiui.

Aft<'r admiriiicT the biuuiiful fi'uation of the city from an adjacent hill, enter Dur-
ham ; a jjlace ut S.ixon f .indation ; the original name was Dun-holme, from Dun, a
hill, and hi'lnie an ille, formed by a river *. But it is only a lofty narrow peninfub,
\v,;(hed tni eiu h (kle by the Wvre, tlie Viurus of the vcnerabli.- Bedef. The city is
dilpoied 0!i the fule of the hili, and along part of the neighbouring flat, and the build-
ings in g'.iieial are very ancient. Thj approaches to it are extremely pitturefque,
cfpecially that from the Ibuth, tliio.igh a deep hollow, finely cloathed with trees. The
banks oi tl; ■ river are cov red with woods, through which are cut numbers of walks,
contrived with iud;^Miie: t, ;<iid iiappy in the nioll beautiful and folcmn ken'-ry. '! hey
impend over th, \\a:er, and r ec ive a molt vtuerable improvement from the caiUe and
anci nc Lathedr.il, which tower lar above.

Ihis hill, till about the year 995, was an errant d. fert, over run with wood, and un-
inhabitable. At that period, the religious of Cunearcltre, having, tliiough fear of the
DaniOi pirates, removed the body of .St. Cuthbert to Rippon, on tii.ir return back,
when the danger was over, met with an admonition that determined them to -^epofit it
in this place J. The corpfe and the body b'-came fuildenly immoveable; no force
could draw it a ftcp farther. It was revealed to St. Eadme>-, that it fhould be brought
to Durham, and, on that relolution, a flight ilrcngth r Muoveu it to the deltined fpot,
"With the afliltance of the Karl of Northun-berlaiid, the wood was footi cleared away;
a church arofe in honour of the faint, compofed indeed of no better mittri is than rods.
But this feems to have been only a temporary temple, for the whole country flocking
in, afliiled in building one of Hone, which coll three years' labour. A provolt and
fecular canons were eltabliflied here; ihefe continued till about the year 1083, when
William de Carilepho § removed ihem, placing in their room a prior and monks of
the Benedictine order.

The Saxons of thefe parts, unwilling to fu'unit to the Norman yoke, retired to this as
a place of (Iren^nh, and built a Icrtrils, for a time a great anr.osaiice to the Conqueror.
This they called Dunholme. The Dun, or artificial hill, on which the great tower is
built, was of their work. On the approach of William, the Saxons quitted their poll.
lie poflefled himfeif of fo advantagecnis a litu.uii^n, and lounded the calUe. This after-
wards became the relidence of the prelatis, and, by ancient cultom, the keys were,
il'.iring a vacancy of the lee, hung mer the tomb of the tutelar St. C.uthbert. Theam-
Litious prelate, Hugh I'udi'ey, nepiiew to Iviiig Stephen, n paired and rebuilt fevcral
parts, which, during his time, had fulfered by fire |j, IlaifiJd, a munificent prelate in
the rci;. M of tdward 111., reitored fueli pans as he found in ruins, rebuilt the great
I'all, ai!ii that beK)ri^ing to the cniulable, and added a great tower for the farther Ic-
c'.irity of the place ^F. 'I'o the mill and amiable Tunilal is owing the magnificent gate,
the chapel, and lome adjacent biiiltliiigs •' ; and tu liilhc^p Cofins, th • firit prelate of the
fee after the keiloraiion, the preieiit beauty and inajniiicenc of thj place, aficr the
cruel havock made Lc.e by the brutal llalelrig.

• Camilcn, il. (,4'> f KccI, Hill. lib. iv c. l9.

J li ll of llic *.at'iti!isl of Diirliain, annexed lo DugiljU's St. Pan!, p. 6;.

j) S!cv< in'i. Li'i iu. I'u^ilolr, \u\. i 350. ;| Mr Ai'.iii.

1 llill. C'uUi. Durliau., Du^Jaif, 71;. •• Guudrt'iii, ijrj.

The

PENNAN'l S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

5^9

The city, or rather the precinds of the abby and caflle, were furrounded with a wall,
by Ralph Flambnnl *, in the beginning of the nign of Hi-nry I. The ad million was
through three gateways : Framwcll-gate, at the head of a bridge of the fame name ;
Claypath-gate, near the market-place ; and the Water-gate, beneath the end of the
Prtbendaries' Walk. I do not find, that at any time the fir«ngth of the place was ever
tried by a fiege.

The cathedral (lands below the caflle. It was begun in 1093, ^7 William de Cari-
lepho, bifhop of the diocefe, who pulled down the old church, built by Aldwin. In
this work he was afliltcd by Malcolm I. oi Scotland, and I'urgot, the fecond prior, and
his monks ; who, at their own expcnce, and at the lame time, made their own cells,
and other conveniences for the monalti ry.

Ralph Flainbard, fucceffor to Cuih-pho, had the honour of completing this fuperb
flrudure, with exception of certain additions, lucli as the Galil -e t, vvhich was built by
bifhfip Piidlifv ; the (tone roof, which was done by bifliop Farnham, in the time of
Hemy III, Bilh-p Sknlaw, in the reign of Richard 11. built the cloifters ; prior Foffor
beautified it with feveral fine vvindo\*s, and enriched both the church and convent with
variety of new worlds; and prior Wa' worth finiflicd whatlbever his pious predeceflbr
was prevented by death from bringing to a conclulioii J.

The revenues of this houfe at the diifolution are eflimated by Dugdale at 1366I.
10s. ^d., by Speed at 1615I. 14s. lod. The value of the bilhoprick, at that time,
282 il. IS. 5d. clear §. The reader is referred to Willis's Hiltory of Cathedrals, i. 222.
lor the eflablifhment and its revenue after that period.

This magnificent pile is 41 1 feet long, the breadth near Ro, the crofs ifle 170 ; over
its centre rifes a lofty tower, reckoned 22; feet high, ornamented on the outfide with
Go hie work ; at the weft end are two low towers, once topt with two fpires, covered
with lead In the infide is preferved much of the clumfy, yet venerable magniticence of
the early Norman llyle. 'I'he pilars are va(l cylinders, twentv-three feet in circum-
ference; iome adorned with zig zag furrows, others with lozenge-fhnpod, with nar-
rt.w ribs, or with fpiral ; the arches round, carved with zig-zag; above are two rows
of galL-ries, each with round arches or openings.

A row of fmall pilafters run round the fides of the church, with rounded arches in-
tcrfccting each other. The windows are obtulely pointed.

B'twfen two of the pillars arr the mutilated tombs and figures of Ralph and John
Lord Nfvil. Exct'|Uiiig Ricliard de Ikrnardcaltre, who in 1370 erected a Ihiine in
honor of Ikde, thefe feem to have been the only laity admitted into this holy ground
in the tariicr times.

Ralph lii-il in the year 134/, and was the firfl fecular that was buried in this cathe-
dral : his bodv was conveyed in a chariot drawn by feven hori'es as far as tlie churcli-
yarJ, (hen carried on the Ih ulders of knights into the middle of the church ; wlicre
tlie abbot ii S\ M.irvN at York, in the abtence of thebilhip or illnels cif the prior,
p(rfi)ii!ied th ' funtral office ; at w hicli were oil end eight horfes, four for war, with
four ir.en u'lntd, and lour for \)c:\ce ; and three cloths of gold interwoven with flowers.
His Ion John do Ncvil redeemed four tif the horft s, at the price I'f a luiii.lred marks.
IJiit this I'avo'.ir was not tlone craiis by the holy mvu of the place. Ralph liad pre-
fehfeil thnu with a vellment of red velvet, richly eudiroidered with gold, lilk, great
pearls and iina_,is of laintr, dedicated to St. C'.uthbert. Mis widow ailo lout to the
facrilt a hundred and twenty pounds of fdvci, for the repairs of the cathedral, aa.L

i >:L,,,

i 'm

■ !•■''«

• Gecilwin, 1 12,

t IbM. 114.

I Stcvcua, i. 132.

§ T.inucr, 1.1.

ftvcr.d

S'o

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Ri i

',1 ''

feveral rich veflmcnts for thcpcrformanco of the facrod orticos *. This was the noble-
man who was lb inltriimcntal in gaining the vidflory of Ncvil's Crofs.

Mis fon John had alfo his merits with the pietids of this church ; for, by the mag-
nificent nlfcrings ho made at the funeral of his firlt wife, ami by fome elegant and cx-
penfive work beneath the flirinc of St. Cuthbeit, in 1389, ho obtained admidion for
his remains in a fpot not remote from his father i . Both their monuments are greatly
mutilated ; having been deficed by the Scotch priibners, coniineU here after the battle
of Dunbar.

In the choir is the bilhop's throne, ckvated to an uncommon height, ereCled in
times of the triumph of fuperllition : a painful afeent to the prefent prelate, whofe \vi(h
h directed more to didini^uifh himl'elf by benevolence and hncerity, than any exterior
trappings, or badges of dignity.

On the fides ot the pulpit are the evangeli(l!5, finely inlaid.

Tlie chancel and altar-piece is of ilone, beaiiiiluliy cut into open work J, and
on each fide are two ilalls, in lloae, originally deiigned for llie rellingplaces of i'lck.
votaries.

On one fide of the choir is the tomb of biihop Hatfield, who died in i ^81, orna-
mented wiiii as many coats of arms as would ferve any Germ.m prince. Wuliitudes of
other prelatt-s and priors relied in this churcii, covered with beautiful tombs ind brall'es,
fwept away by the hand of facrilege in the time of Henry Vllf., or of undillinguilhing
reformation in fucceeding reigns, or ol fanaticifm, in the unhappy times of the lalt
centuty.

Behind the altar Hood the ihrine of St. Cuthbert, once the richeft in Great Britain:
the marks of pilgrims' feet in the wovn floor (till evince the multitude of votaries ; at
the diilblution, his body was taken out ot" the tomb and interred beneath.

Beyond this, at the extreme call end, llood nine altars, dedicated to as many faints ;
above each is a molt elegant window, extremely narrow, lofty, and fharply arched ;
above thefe, is a round window, very large and finely radiated with Ilone work, calleil
St. Catharine's, from its being in the form of the wheel ufed at her martyrdom. In
this part of the church is another fine window, divided into circular portions. All the
windows in this ille terminate iharply ; and were the work of a later age than that of
the body of the church, probably the time of prior l-'olTor.

The Galilee, or lady's chapel, lies at the well: end of the cathedral. Within are
three rows of pillars, each conliding of round united columns, the arches round, fjulp-
t ired on the mouldings with zig zag work §. This place was allotted to the female
part of the votaries, who were ii-ver permitted to pal's a certain line to the call of it,
drawn jufl hcl'oni the font. Ikre they might (land to hear divine fervice, but were
confined to this liinit on pain of excommunication. Legend aifigns as the caiife of
this averfion in St. Cuthbert to the fair fcx, a charge of feduclion brought agaiiilt him
by a certain princefs, who was inilaiiily punilhed by being ("wallowed \\\) bv the earth,
which, on the intercellion of the pacified taint, rellored her to the king her fuller. From
that time, not a woman was pert!. itted to enter any cliurch dedicated to this holy man.
Mr. Groff II relates, thai in the fifteenth century two ftinalcs, inlligated by invincible
curiofity, ureliing themfilves in man's apparel, ventured Uyoiid the prohibitory line,
were detected, and (utFered certain penances as atonement for iheir crime.

• l/iifrdaic's Baron, i. 295. f IJcin, 297.

I -ili^ned in S:iiilli'i fjltii)n of Bfdf, 2^4.

% Sci the view ot it ill Smitli'i idition if l'«>lf, Soj.

1; In h\3 accor.iit uf Durham cathedral, in hu third vulu;ne,

111

pennant's second Tour in Scotland.

5»»

Fn the Galilee Is the tomb of the venerable Bade. His remains were firft depofited
at Jairow, then placed in a golden cofiin on the right fide of the body of St. Cuth-
bert ; and finally, in 1370, tranflated by Richard of Barnard-caftle to this place.

The tomb of bifliop haiigley is near that of B?de. This prelate was chancellor of
England in the reign of Henry IV. but rcfigned that high poft, on being confecrated
biOiop of Durham. He obtained the cardinal's hat in 141 1, and, after doing many
acts of inunifkence, died in 1437.

In the vtllry-room is prcferved the rich plate belonging to the cathedral ; and here
are fliewn five molt fiipv^rb vellmcnts for the facrcd feivice : four are of greai antiquity,
the fiftli was given by Charles I.

The cloillej's adjacent to the church are 147 feet fquare, and very neat. The
chapter-houfc open^- into them : is a plain building, in form of a theatre ; on the fides
are pilafters, the arches interletUng each other. iU the upper end is a flone chair, in
old times the feat of the bifliop.

The old Fiatry was converted into a roble library by dean Sudbury, who, not living
to cimpbte his defign, by will dated '683, bound his heir Sir John Sudbury, to fulfil
his intention. This is likewife the repofitory of the altars, and other Roman antiquities,
difcovercd in the biflioprick. 'i'he dormitory, the lott, the kitchen, and other parts ot
the ancient abby, arc (lill exifling, and flill of ufe to the prefent pofTelTors.

The prcbendal houfes are very pleafantly fituated, and have backwards a mofl beau-
tiful view. After the fubvcrfion of monarchy, Cromwell, in 1657, on the petition of
the inhabitants of the county *, converted the houfes belonging to the dean and chap-
ter into an univcrfity, and afligned certain lands and revenues in the neighbourhood
of the city for its fupport. This {hort-lived leminary confided of a provolt, two
preachers, four profeiVors, four tutors, four fchool-mafters (fellows,) twenty-four
fcholars, twelve exhibitioners, and eigliteen frce-fchool fcholars. They had liberty of
purchafing lands as far as fix ihoufand pounds a year; had a common feal, and many
other privileges. On the acceffion of Richard, thefe new academics were not wanting
in gratitude to the memory of their maker ; for, in their addrefs to the fuccefl'or, they
compared Cromwell to Auguflus, and gave him the prowefs of our fifth Henry, the
prudence of our feventh Henry, and the piety of our fixth Edward ; and recommended
to the " vital b ^ams of the piteous afped of his fon, his new ereftion, an orphan fcarce
bound up in its fwaddling cloaths." This orphan tin' ved apace,' it endeavo\ircd to enn-
fer degrees, and .mimic its grown-up filters of Oxfoj ' and Cambridge, v, ho checked
its prefumptions by petitions to the new Protedor. 1 it in lefs than two years the ill-
patched machine of government fell to pieces, and with it this new feminary for
knowledge.

There are two handfome bridges to the walks over the Were : from orke the pro-
ipctl is particularly fine, towards the cathedral and cadle ; and another bounded on
tach fide by wood, with the (leeple of Elvet, a place adjoining to Durham, loaring
above. Th re is alfo a third bridge, which joins the two parts ot the town, and is
covered with houfes.

I had heard on my road many complaints of the ccclefiaftical government this county
is iulijed to ; but, from the general face of the country, it feems to thrive w.indtrtuUy
well uniler it. Notwithllaiiding the bifliops have flill great powers and privileges,
yet they were flripped of liill greater by (hituteof the 27th of Henry VIII. In tlieti ne
of the Conqueror it was a maxim, qtiuquid rex habet extra comitatum Dundmcnjim,

♦ Mr. Allan.

■•ta

Cp'fii.f>US

v*";'i

512 PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND;

epifcop'js hahct ir.tra^ jiiji oliqua fit rcvcilfio, aut prcfaipt'to in cmtrarnm, Thoy had
power to levy taxes, make truces vviili the Scots, to raife di-fenfible men within the
bilhoprick iVom fixtcen to lixty years of age. They could call a parliament, and create
barons to fit and vote in it. He could fit in his purple robes to pronounce fentencc
0^ death, whence the faying, yo///;« Dundmoifc jud'nat J}ohi ct cnfc. He could coin
money, hold courts in his own name, and all writs went in his own name. He claimed
and feiz'.il for his own ul'e all goods, chattels, and lands of perfons convided of tre.i-
fons or Jrlonics ; could ajipoiiit the great ollicers under him, and do varit-ty of ads
emulating the royal authority *. He was lord paramount in the county, and the great
people held molt: of their lands from the church. 'I'hus the potent Nevils p;;id four
pounds and a Hag annually for Raby, and light other manors. 'I'wo of the tenures
are fingular ; 1 beg leave to prefent them to the reader in the form I had the honour of
receivin'4 them from the prelent worthy prelate.

" The valuable manor of Sockburn, the leaf (jf the ancient family of the Conyoi-s,
in the county pal.itine of Durham, is held by the Bl.ickett tamily, olthebidiop of Dur-
ham, by the ealy fervicc of prefentiiig a falchion to every bifliopupun hisfirll entrance
into his diocefe, as an emblem of his temporal po;\er. When th,.' prelent hiihop made
his firll entrance in the month of Sept. 1771, he was met upon ih ' middle of Croft
bridge, (where the counties of York and Durham divide,) by Mr. Bl.ickett, ;is fublli-
tute for his brother Sir Kdward, who prellnted his Lordlliip with the falchio«, ad-
drelling him in the aiitient form of words :

" ' Sir Kdward Blackett, Hart now roprefents the perfon of John Conyers, who,
in the fields, with this falchion t, iliw a monllrous criature, a ilra;;iin, a worm, or a
flying lerpent |, that devoured men, women, and children. The tli. a owner of Sock-
burn, .IS a reward for his br.ivery, gave him the manor, with its apiMirtenances to hold
for ever, on condii ion that he meets the Lord Bifliop of Durham v.itli this falchion, on
his (iril entrance into his diocefe alter his election to that fee.'

" At Croft Bridge the billiop was alio met by the high-lljerilF of the county paljj-
tine, who is an otiicir ol his own by patent during pleal'ure, by the numbers for the
cout.fv and city of Durham ; and by all the principal gentlemen in the county and
tici^hbourhood, to welcome his l.oriidiip into his palatiuate, who C(nuluded him to
Dar ingtdii, where thiv a'l dined wiih him, after which thry proceeded to Durham.
Before they reached the city, they were met by the dean and chapter, w'lth their
congratulatory aiidrers; the bifhop and the whole company alighted from their car-
riages to receive them ; when the ceremony of the adiirels, and his I.ordlliip's anfwcr
was finifhed, tlie procellion moved on to the city ; here they were met by the corpora*

• Tlitle and many mcif are prtfi-rvcJ in Majjna Biitami'n.l < i^. Sec alfi> SpdrniaiiV Inquiry.

f l.tgtiiiJ >,'iMi fiiiiK iiIki (larticulaisof llii^ N.iliant Iciij^lit ; uliiili N i Allan txtraclcJ fri tn the Cata-
logue of the Harician M- S Nil 21 |X p 3> :

" .Sir J'...) Cotiytis Ji Si'iklnitn, Kiit whoc flew llic mni.llniiis viiiomM ami piiilon'd uiMiiif, alT<, or
woinio, v»ch cvrMlirckV and dcvrui'd ni.Miy people in fiij;lil. tor llie li'ciit of the poyliin wjs fo llroii^; that
iioe pcifoii >vn. atilc to nlitiii- it, yii he liy the pioviduice of (lod oviithrtw it. and his i)iiiiid at Sockliurn
iKfon. ih,- C'liupi. ll. I'll! Iielote lie did ( tircri'iile haung hut ( ne iliildi ) he w i-nt to • he i hiircli ii> coni-
plc'c ainioiii, and i ffirid up hi.-; fonne to tht Holy Ghull, will iiu)iui:ni:<l is Vi't to lie, and the plate
wh'-rc ihe f ipent lav i- calldi Oayllone."

t On ill portiTTci .ire ihric lii ns of Kn);lnnd, >rmtd,inl. Tin fe \s;\( t u !l Imii.i' liv Ki";; J"hn, f.i tliat
this I liliion wa. IV t made I e!ore ihai lint, noi did thcowmr Ld! tlirdia;^n. 1 lit I'Lick c.t^;Ic in a llehl,
gild wai the urns of Moiar, F. irl of ^ iirihiiinhcilaiKl This loo n.ij^iit In- the laleidoii wi;li wiiitlitlie
earls \icre invi(hd, hiini; j^i'l vvrth the fw' rd of thi' eaiidoiii.

The .Slots fie ii to h.ne hem intended In tliiir dicnifnl aniir.jl'- ; and llie l.dihion bcftowcd \\it!l an
cflale, asa repaid l^i Lnie iifcful firvice pcifornud hy a Loii)ti8 ajjaiiill iii.>tc ir.vadcri.

7 tion.

pennant's second TOUK. in SCOTLAND.

5»3

tion, the difFercnt companies \vit!i their banners, and a great concoiirfc of people ; they
proceetlcd immedi;'.tely to the cailu'iiral, where the bidiop was habited upon the tomb
of the venerable Hede, in the Galilee, at the well end of the church ; from whenco
he went in proccliion to the great altar, preceded by the whole choir finginrr 7V
Deitm ; after prayers the billiop took th,- oaths at the aliar, and was then enthroned in
the ufual forms, and attended to the callle by the liigh-(hv.'i-iiF and other gentlemen of
the county. Pollard's lands, in this county, are holdcn of the biihop by the fame kind
of fervice as the manor of Hockburn. At his I.ord'hip's firit coming to Aukland,
Mr. Johnfon met the prcfent bidiop at his firlt airival there, and, pr-i>nting the fal-
chion upon his knee, addredcd him in the old form of words, laving, ' My Lord, in
behalf of myfelf, as well as of the feveral other t.nants of I'oUaid's lands, I do humbly
prefent your Lordfhip with this falchion, at your lirll coming here, whereuith, as the
tradition goes, Pollard flew of old a great and veiiemous ferpent, which did much harm
to man and beait ; and by the performance of this fervice thcfe lands are holden."

Sept. 6 Leave Durham, and journey through a beautiful country, having near the
city views of lands, brok- i into niofl: delightful and cidtivatet! knowls ; and, on the
left, of fine hanging woods; the land much inclofcd, and the hedges planted. On
the right lies Brancefpeth calUe, originally the feat of the Bulniors, afteru'ards that of
the Nevils, Karls of Weltmoreland, forfeited by the rebellion of the lall in the time of
Queen Elizabeth. The great fteeple of Merrington is feen on the left. Turn out of the
high road, and pafs through the bifhop's grounds and park, and enjoy a line view of
the Were, running along a deep bottom, bounded by wooded and well-cultivated banks.
On the fouth fide ftands

Bifliop's-Aukland, a good town, with a large and fquare maket-place. On one fide
is a handfoine gateway, with a tower over it. This is a modern editice, defigned by
Sir Thomas Robinfon ; that built by bifliop Skirlaw * having been long fince deltroycd.
Through this gateway lies Aukland caftle, long fince the refidence of the bifliops of
Durham. It has loll its cafteliated form, and now rcfembles fome of the magnificent
foreign abbies. It is an irregular pile, built at ditferent times ; but no part is left that
can boafl: of any great antiquity. Over a bow-window are the arms of Biihop Tunftal,
who died in the beginning of the reign of Elizabeth. This was originally a manor-
houfe belonging to the fee, and was firfl encallellated f by biihop Beke ; who alio
built a great hall, and adorned it with marble pillars ; he founded a fair chapel, and
collegiate church, with a dean and prebends, which church is that of St. Andrew's, at
a fmall diftance from the town. Excepting the church, there are no relicks of the la-
bours of this p.elate ; the place having been bellowed by the parliament on their furious
partisan Sir Arthur llafelrigg, who, taking a fancy to the place, determined to tnake
it his chief refidence. lie dcmoliflied almofl all the buildings he found there, and out
of their ruins erefled a mofl magniilcent houfe [.

On the Reftoration, the former biihop, the munincent Cofins, was redored to his
diocefe. lie had a palace ready for his reception, but by an excefs of piety declined
milking \ife of it, from the confuleration that the llon.'s of the ancient chapel had been
facrilegioully applied towards the building of this late habitation of fanaticifm. The?
billiop pulled it down §, and reftoring the materials to their ancient ufe, built the pro-
lent elegant chapel. 'Ihe roof is wood, fupportcd by \\\o rows of pillars, each con-
filling of four round columns, freellone and marble alternate. The fltafts of fomc of

VOL. in.

• Lcland, Itin. i. j-j.

X Hill. Cb. Durham, Dvgdale. 87.

t Ibj'.l.

<5 Ibid.

the

-rrfs::KAX.'^r^\^ iniWiiBirLi

l\A

5 '4

ffiNNANT's SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

fe:

-»i

the marble are fixtccn feet high ; the Iona[th of the chapel is eighty-four feet, the
breadth forty-eight; the outliJe oriKunentcd with pinnacles. On the floor, a plain
iloiie, with -a movicll cpitapli, informs us that the pious reibundcr lies beneath, dying in
the year 167 i.

The principal apartments are an old hall, fcventy-five feet by thirty-two, the height
thirty-five ; ;mu1 a very handioine dining-parlour, ornament-'d with portraits of Jacob
and the twelve patriarchs. Jacob bows under the weight of years : iiis fons, with each
hit: fcriptural attribute. 'I'he figures are animat-.d ; the colouring good. I think the
painter's name is Xuhero, ^ne I do not dil'cover in any 11(1 of artills. The pictures
werebougiit by the prdeiit, from the executors of the kre bilhop, and bellowed on tht;
palace. The late generous prelate built a fuite of atliitional apartments ; but dying
bef(u-e they -were completed, they arc now furuilhed in a molt magnificent manner by
his fuccellbr.

On the old wainfcot of a room below flah's are painted the arms of a ftrangc aiTern-
b!age of potentates, from Ouecn Elizabeth, with all the Luropean princes, to the Em-
perors of Ahyllinia, Bildelgerid, Cathaye, and Tartaria ; fi.xteen peers of the fame
reign, knights of the garter, and above them the arms of every bilhoprick in England.

The caltle is feated in a beautiful park, watered by the little river Gaunlels, which
fidls, after a Ihort courfe, into the \Vere. The park is well planted, and has abundance
of valt aUlers, that bv age have loll tlie habit oi' tiiat tree, and alfume the appearance of
ancient oaks. Nothing can equal the approach through thisjirouud to the caltle, which
is varied with verdant flopes, riling grounds, woods, and deep precipices, impending
over the river. Tlie great deer-houle, Iv.iilt by bllhnp Trevor, is an elegant fquaro
building, and nr fmall einbellilhment to the place. Leland tells us, that in his time
there was a f lir park, having falow deer, wild bulles, and kin.

On an eminence on the oppofite lidc of the Were is Hiiichefter, the ancient Vinovia,
where feveral Roman cinns, altars, and iiilcriptions have bi-eii found. Several of ilie
latter are worked up in the walls of a gentleman's houfc on the llatiun, but nowlcarcely
legible. An account of them may be feen in Mr. Horlely, p. 295. Urns full of aflns
and bone?:, and figuline lacryniatories, have been alio found in the park, where the lla-
fion probably extended. A military way may be traced from this place as far as
BrancelpLth-park one w:;y, and the other by Aukland to I'eircc-bridge hilo Yorkfliirc.

Si-pt. 7. IV^ceed h^r a little way from Aukiaiid on the Roman way : leave on the
left, at a mile and a hall vliltance from the town, the church of St. Andrew's Aukland,.
once collegiate, and well endoweil by Antony bilhop of I')urham. At the dillblution
here ■wcrr> found a dean and clev.n prebends*. A houi'e culled the deanery Itill re-
mains. 'I'he cliief fuinb in this church is that of a Pollard ; a crof>-legged knight,
armid in mail to hi:> fingers' ends, with a Ikirt, formed of llripes, reaching to his kuecs,
a ihort fuord, and conic helm.

Pafs through St. Helens-Aukland and Weft-Aukland, and after a fliort digreflion fall
in with the old Roman road, which continues to IVirce or I'rieil-bridgc, wiiere
was once a chapel, founded by John Ualiol, King of Scotland, and dedicated to the
Virgin f. 'I'he gateway is Hill Handing, in what is called the Chapel-garth. Till Le-
land'stime the bridge ccjiifilted of five arches, but he fays that of late it was rebuilt with
three. The Tees flow bLUealh in a piduiefque channel finely Ihaded on each fide with
tret'i. Near this bridge, in a field called the lofis, had been a conliderabic Romari
Ualion : urns and coins in abundance have been difcovcred there. A Ilouc coflin, with

• Tanner, 116.

t Leland Itin. i. 88.

. fkeleton,

Pr.NNANT's fiCCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAKD.

5^5

:\ didcton, is mentioned by bifliop Gibfon ; but that I apprehend to be of more modern
(late. The foundatiniis of hollies have been obferved ; and Mr. HoH'ely imagines he
could trace an aqucduth He iiippofcp this place to have been the Magae of the Notitia,
I mufl obferve that the Roman road is continued in a direft line between the roads to
Rarnnrd-Ciiftlf and Darlington, and is continued over a fmall brook, and through the
theindofuro parallel to the To.'"' , .vlien it crolfos the river about tAvo hundred and fixty
paces call of the bridue, and then falls into the turnpike-road to Catterick-bridge. The
■whole breadth of the icid is flill to be traced ; and the ftones it is formed of appear to
be llrongly cemented with run lime. The Romans had iiere a wooden bridge : the
materials, Inch as the bodies of oaks, and fevcral (loops, were to be feen till wadied
away by iho }^rcat floods of 1771. On croflinn; the Tees enter Yorkfliire.

/.ftci- a ride of a few miles pafs through Aldbrough, now a little village, but once a
place of (iniiicnce, as its ruins, obfervcd by Camden, evince. In the time of Henry I.
Stephen I'.arl of Allu'inai !c and Holdorncfs had a manor and calHe iicre, the tythes of
which he beftowod on the abbey of Albemarle in Normandy * ; and that abbey in the
rei;n of Richard II. j^ranted them to the abbey of Kirkftall f. Henry III. again bc-
ftowed the place on Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent. By failure of iflue, it fell to the
crown in the time of Henry IV., who gave it to his third fon, John Duke of Bedford J.
Pafs over a large common, called Gathcrley moor, and by the fides of the Double-
dike, or Roman hedge, a vail fofs, with banks on each fide, extending from the Tees
to the Swale. On the right isDiddcrllon hill, whether a tumulus or exploratory, was
too diftant for me to determine. After defcending a hill, pafs by Gillin'g, where Alan
Fergaunt, Farl of Bretagneand Richmond, had a capital manfion-houfe §. This place
was infamous for the murder of Ofwyii, King of Deira, by his fucceifor Ofwy ; but his
Oueen yF,anfled obtained permidion from her huiband to found here a monaftery, in
order to expiate fo horrible a crime. At this time the place was called Ingetling, and
■was deftroyed in the Daniih wai-s ||. Reach

Richmond, a good town^ feated (in a fliirc of the fame name) partly on a flat, and
partly on the fide of a hill : on the lad is the market-place, a handfomc opening, in
which is the chapel of the Trinity, and in the middle a large column inftead of the old
crofs. The trade of tliis place is that of knit woollen (lockings, in which men, women,
and children are employed, the neighbourhood fupplying the wool. The (lockings are
chiefly exported into Holland. JNIuch wheat is fold here, and lent into the mountainous
parts of tlic country.

There were feveral religious lioufcs in this place and its neighbourhood. In the
town, on the plain on the north fide, was a houfe of grey friars •[, founded in 1258 by
Ralph Fitz-Randal, Lord of Middleham, and had at the dilTolution fourteen monks.
Nothing remains excepting the beautiful tower of its church. Near this was alfo a
nunnery ••. About a mile cad of Richmond are the fine ruins of St. Agatha, feated at
the end of fomc beautiful meadows, upon the river Swale. It was founded in 1 151 by
Roaldus, conllablc of Richmond cad le ; and at the time of the Reformation maintained
fevcnteen white canons, or Premonttratenfian monks. The abbot and religious, in
12^-5, iigreed with Henry Fitz-Ranulph, that he (hould hold of them in pure and per-
petual alms their poUeflions of Kerperby, on condition he paid them annually one pound
'A' cumin feed, a drug in no fmall eltecm in old timesit. Richard Scroope, chancellor

* Di)(;dale, Mon.iil. i. i;SS. f Idem, 5S9. ^ % M-gt^a Biitannn, vi. 6d8.

V Duj^JjIc, I'j.iioii. i. 46. 11 Ralfjib. ii c. 14.24.. ^ Tamer. 635. ♦* Idem, 672.

•» t Dugd.ilc, Myii. ii. O50. AiiJlorilie virtues of cumin feed conlult Old Gtriird's Herbal, 10O6.

3^'

'JM„
, '■ IB

■ni ;

■it'f

: him

C.6

PENNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

of Jlncjaiu!, was a great bcncfiiclfir to this place ; for, bpfulos his manor of Bnimrifon.
npon-Sw ;>'(', ht- graiitcil a hmulrcd ami lilty pniiiiils a yvwv lor tlio iiipport of t n aiKli-
tiitiial cantnis, two ftcubr canons, an<l twcnty-two poor men, who wori. to pray lor ttic
ropole of his I'onl, ami thofe of his heirs*. 'Ihe ruins are very vemrable, an 1 the
ma^nifictnt ardi-wojk in tiie inlidc are line prools of iIk; lliili of thi- tiimsin that ipccies
of architcdure. Tiie arch of the gateway is cxtrcnieiy oblufe ; that of the windows
grcnily pointi\l.

Near liiis pi, ire was a hofpital, dedicated to St. Nicliolas. I cannot learn the fonn-
dii'sn.Mno but find it was repaired in the tinte ol Henry V^I., who gave the patronage
to Willi in» Ayl'iouuh, one of his jiidgts; wlioreltored the hofpital at great expence,
and added ai'.oih' r cli.unitry pricIL to ilie lurnier |.

Nearer io Richmond, on an eminence above the river, are the poor rcl'ques of
St. Martin's, a c II of nine or ten Benedidines, dependent on th<' abbey of St. M.ii-v, at
Vo;k. It w.is fiiuiidjd in i loo by Wymar, chief Ifewartl to the Karl of Richmond j..
Kefidos ihcle, were v.irions other pious foundations on the Swale, whole vvat is were
facred with the baptifin of ten thoufand Saxons near Clatterick, in 627, by I'aulinus
bilhop of Yo.k|>j.

It now remains to fpcak of the fortifications of this ancient town : part had been de-
fended by walls, whicli took in little more than the market-place, and had three gates.
'IhecalUe (laiulson the foulh-weil part of the hill, in a lofty and bold fnuation, above
the Swale, and half environed by it. The remains are the walls of the precinct, iomc
Imall fquare towers, and one vc>ry lar.:!;e, all built in the Norman (lyle. This fortri.fs
uas foundi d by Alan Karl of lircta<j;iu' |!, nephew to the Conqueror, who connnaiidcd
the rear of his army at the battle of Ilalfings, was creati-d by him Karl of Richmond,
and received from him the fliireofthe linne name, and a hundred and lixty manors in
the county of York alone. This country had been before the property of the brav<.»
Edwin, Karl of Mercii. The great tower was built by Conan, grandfon of the former,
the vault of which is fupported by a fine odagonal pillar, 'i he view from the calUe is
picturefque ; beneath is the feat of Mr. York, and beyond, a profpccf up th;: Swale
into the mountainous parts of the country, rich in mineral ; and on the l)anks of the
river lived Sir John Swale, of Swale-hall, in Swale-dale, fall upon the river Swale.

Crofs the river, and after palling over a dreary niocr, lUiceiid into a valley not more
plcafant, being totally indofed with (lone fences, (io throuidi the fin;ill towns of BiU
lerfly and K^ybourne ; and foon after find an agreeable change of country, at the en-
trance of Wenfley-dalc, a beautiful and fertile vale, narrow, bounded by hi,^h hills,
inclol'ed with h< dges, and cultivated far uj), in m.iny parts cloathed with woods, fur-
mouitted with long ranges of fears, white rocks, Imooth and precipitous iu front, and
perftdly even at their tops. Tlie rapid cryllal lire divides the whole, fertilizing tlie
rich meadows wit 11 its (hiam.

See on the left Middleham caflle. 'I'he manor was bellowed by Alan Karl of Rich-
mond on his y')ungtT brother, Uintbald. His ^nndfon, llyleJ Robert Kilz-Ralpli,
receiving from C'liian Karl of Richmond all Wenlley-dale, lounded this caHle about
the year 1 190. l?v the marriage of his daughter and coheir to Robert de Nevil ^', it
pafTed into that f.iiiiily in the year i26r;. In tliis place Kduard I\^ futf 'red a Ihort
imprifonment, alter being fnrprifed by Richard Neviil, the great Karl of Warwick, and
connuiiied to the cullody of hi:, brother, the archbi.'hop of York, who proving too in-

f, JJugdalc'a liaiuu. J. 40.

t I''"'i. 479- t IJcin, i 40110404.

f Idem, i. Zii.

i BiJe, lib. ii. c. 14.

dulgent

PHNKANT*8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

5^7

dolgcnt a keeper, foon lofl his royal prifom-r, by permitting him the ploafure o*" the
chacc imfTuanled. The ruin oF his hoiile oiifiid.!. On its forfeiture, Kichard Duke
of York hecaine poircn'od of ir, and here loll his only Ion Edward. He who had made
fo many childlefs, frit in this misfortuiiL: the (Iroite of heaven. Tt is a vafl buihliiig ;
its towers deep, and turrets fquare. l*art was the work of l-'itz Ralph ; part of the
Lord Nevill, called Darabi *. Tiie hall, kitchen, and chapel, were built by lieaumont
bifliop of Durham t. It was inhabited as late as the year 1609, by Sir Henry LindU.y,
knight |.

Vifit th-i church of Wenflcy. On the floor are feveral carved figures on the ftones,
probably in memory of certain Scroopes interred there §. Alio a figure of Ofwald
I)yk'.'s, in his prielUy vtllimnts, with a chalice in his hand. The infcription fays that
he had been reclor of the parilh, and di(?d in 1607. I prelume by his habit he was only
nominal retlor. Lord CUiancellor Scroope deligned to make this church collegiate,
and obtained licence for that purpol'e from Kichard II.; bul it does not appear that the
intent was ever ( xccuted.

At a little diftance beyond the church is a neat bridge of confiderable antiquity,
which Leiand fpeaks of as " the fayre bridge of three or four arches, that is on Ure,
at Wencvl.iw, a mile or more above Midleham, made two hundred yer ago and more,
by one caullyd Alvvine, parlbn of Wincelaw."

Vilit liolton hou!e, a feat of the Duke of Bolton, finifhed about the year 1678, by
Charles Marquis of Winchelter. Here are a few portraits of the Scroops, the ancient
owners

A head of Henry Lord Scroope, one of the lords who fubfciibed the famous letter
to the pope, threatening his holinefs that if he did not permit the divorce betweea
Henry Vlll. and Catherine, that they would rejedt his fupremacy.

Helei. '. Clitlord, his wife, daughter to the Earl of Cumberland. Here is another
head of a daughter of Lord Dacres ; third wife, according to Dugdale ||, of the fame
Lord Scroope.

Another Henry, warden of the weft marches in the reign of Elizabeth, in whofe
cuftody Mary Stuart remained for fome time after her flight to her faithlcfs rival.

His wife Margaret, daughter to Henry Earl of Surry. After the difgrace of the
Earl of ElTv-x, tins lady alone flood firm to him ; " for," fays Rowland White, " fhe
endures much at her Majefty's hands, becaule flie doth daily doe all the kynd offices of
love to the Queen in his behalf. She wcarcs all black, flie mournes, and is penfive ;
and joies in nothing but in a I'olitary being alone ; and it is thought flie fates much that
few would venter to fay but herfclf ^[.'*

A head of the fame lord, inicribed " Lord Harrie Scroope, Baron of Bolton, one
of the tilters before (Jutx-ne Elizabeth, at the firft triumphe at the crownacion, aet. 22,
1558**." 'Jo thefe may be addeil the heati of his fon, Thomas Lord Scroope ; and his
fon again, Lord Emanuel, created by Charles I. Earl of Sunderland, who died the lall
of this lint?.

Crols the Ure, on a bridge of two arches, and have from it a fine view of the river
above and below, each bank regularly bounded by trees like an avenue. On the right
is Bolton caftle, built, fays Leland, by Richard Scroope, chancellor of England under
Kichard 11., after eighteen years labour, and at the expence of a thoufand marks a year.

1' i

! I*

A''.F"

n
'A

I'M

:f|

• LdaiiJ. ■\- Willis's Callit'Jrals, i. 240. 1( Mv. Grofe. § LeUiid, Iliii. viii. n.

I" Diigiliilc, Baron, i. 6;,7. «j tiulucy'i State Papus, ii. ijj. Thia letter is dated Oi^. II, 1589.

«*

He was one »( the knights cliulkii^trii on tlieucculiuu.

Moft.

1
''■■'•1 s

I! I>^

It J

518 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

Mod of ihf limber cmi.loycJ was l)r(ni);Iit Iroin I'.ni'l I y Ton (l, in Cumln-rlanil, drawn
by dr:iu^Iits ot 0x011, lucccllivoly cliaii^iHl. Ili- alio luunJi'd licri' u cliaiinirv lor (ix
pricfts*. 'llio intif^riiy ut the chancellor loon lolk hiiu the favour of his mailer ; for
on his reluf.il to put th.r leals to tin- exorbitant grants iii.uli- io lonK' of the worthies
favourites, the King demandet.1 tlu-ni Irom him ; at (iril he declined obedience, decl.ir-
ing he received them from the parliament, not his Majelly j .

This callle is noted for Iiaving been the lirll place of ennfinemrnt of Mary Sfi' t,
who was ninovcd from Carlille to iliia lorlrels, undir the care of th.' iiohlc owner.
Several of her letters are dated from hence. In the civil wars it uiuk-rvvent u fiege by
tiie parliament forces; and was, on Nov. 5, 1643, on conditions, furrendered, with
with great quantities of llores and ammunition J.

'Ilie building is fquare, wiih a vait (quare tuwer at each corner, in which wore the
principal apartmentb, hilaml obllrvej, the fmmdar manner in wiiich the I'moke was
conveyed from the chimnies ot the groat hall, by tunnels made in the walls, convoying
it within the great piers bet woon the windows. This eallle, ami the groat polk llions
belonging to it in thel'e parts, aio the propoity of the l')uko of Holton, ilorivcd by the
naniage of his ancellor, Charlc Marqiii:. of Bohun, with Mary, natural daughter of
tmanuel Scroope, Karl of Sunderland, laii male heir of this ancient Imufe.

Reach Aylgarth 5, or Aylgarth-Force, remarkable for the line arch over the Ure,
built ill 15>). 'i'he Iccnery above and below is moil imconunonly pichnvl'(jue. The
banks on both fidos are lolty, rooky, and d.uki'iu\l with trees. Above the bridge two
ri;gular precipices croi's the river, down which the water falls in two beaulilul calcades,
which are loon to groat advantage trom below. The gloom of the pendent trees, tlu»
towerin^ (leople of the church aliove, and the rage of the waters beneath the ivy. bound
arch, form all togotl.or a molt romantic view.

A little lowor down aro other falls; but the finoll is at about half a mile diflance,
vherc therivor is criilfod by a great Icar, which opens in the middle, and forms a mag-
nificent flight of ilv'ps, which grows wider and wider from top to bottom, the rock 011
«ach fide iorniing a regular wall. 'Ihi- river falls Irons (lop to Hop, and at the lowolt
drops in a rocky chaiuiol, hHod with circular balins, and intorruptod for fome fpace with
lellor falls. I'he eye is finely diiecU'd to this bcautitid cataract by the fears that bound
the rivor, boin;; lolly, prooipilous, and quite ot a Imoolli front, and ihoir lununits
Iringed with hollies and other trees.

Near Avigarih, or, as the cataracts are called, Ayfgarth-Korco, was founded the con-
vent uf white monks, brought from Savigny, in Franco, l)\ Akaries I'itz-liardolt, in
1145. Tliey wereiubject to Bylani.1, .md loceived from theiiei' in 1150, an abbot and
twelve monks, who v\erc afterwards removed to the neighlwuring abt")oy of Jorvaux ||,
'I'his was called, from the cataracts, Fors, aLo W'andefloy-dale, a: d de C'.h;.iitaie.

Crofs the ridge that divides Wenfly-dale from another charming \alloy, c.dlid IJilhopl-
dale. All the little inclolures are ne.irly ot the lame fize and form, and the meadows
are laid out wiih the utmofl reguLiiity. It ap])eared as il in this I'pot, the plan oftho
Spartan logiibtor had taken place : " if ri' moled the in-flilhons of brethren, who had
juit been dividing their inherii.ince amon;: them."

IkioT't I quitt theie delicious tradts, I mult remark, that frotn Lcyhourne to their ox-
trcm'iy there is arcelya mile biii what is I rminat. d hv a liitle tnwn; and ev<Ty fp^it
tven tar up tlie Iiills, cmbellifhed with fmall ncut houle.. liidulliy and competence

• I.ilaiiJ hill. v'ii. 1", 19. ■] Kapin, i. 459.

'f 1 ihiiik thi o (1 iiamc wa» AttLarrt. |i Tanner, 65?.

J Wiiiidock, 175,

fee m

PHNNAKT's SRCOND tour IV SCOTLAND.

5'9

form tr>reu»n amotij-; ttu'lc Iiappy rei^iona, and, Ili^hlanil as they an>, focin diflinguiflicd
l>y tliolL' circun>lt;inces from the flnthfiil hut honell natives of foiiR' of the Scof tilh Alps.
^litfcll.s ami knit Itotkinjiisaie their UKinuhtdures. The hills projucc lead; the vallics
cattle, liorfes, (hcep, wool, butter, and chccl'e.

AUt nd a (let p a mile in l( nj'^th, and at the top arrive on a large plain, a paC* between
the hills. Atdr two miles ddcind into a nitre yien, wi.teied by the Wharf; ride
through Ihiiktlon, and Srar-bottom, two villages, and lie at Ketilewel, a (mall mine
town. There are many Irad-mines about the jiLice, and fomc coal ; but peat is the
gener.d futi, and oat-cakes, or tannocks, the ulual breath '

OtJlober (j. Continue our journey alonj; a ph alant vale. Ride beneath Kilnfey-
fcar, a (hiptiuloiis rock, ninety-thrte yards hii"!!, more than perpenilicular, (or it over-
hangs at top in a manner dreatiful to the traveller. The road liad, made of brokt n
linieftoncs uncovered. '1 his vale ends in a vail: theatre of weed, and [;ave me the idea
ofan American (ctne. Alcmd, and ^vt into a hilly and lefs pleafing country. Over-
take niary droves of cattle anil horlea, nhich had been at grafs the whole iummer in
the remote^ part of Craven, w here they were kept from nine Ihillings to (oriy per head,
acconliny; to their fize. Reach

Skipton, a gtuul town, fcated in a fertile expanded vale. It confifls principally of
onebn ad llreet, the church and cadle terminating the upper end. The cafilc is faid
to have been originally built by Roliert de Romely, ht)id of the honour of Skipton.
By failure of malp ilTue, it fell to William Vh/. Duncan, Earl of Murray, who married
the daughter of Rt)inely. William leClros, Karl of Albemarle, by marriage with her
daughter, received as portion her grandfather's cdates. It fell afterwards by females
toother (amilits, fuch as William de Mandevil, Earl ot EiVex, to William de Forlibus,
and Iialdwin de Ik tun. In the time of Richard I. Avelin, daughter to a (econd William
de l''i>rtibus, a minor, fucceeded. She became ward of King Henry III. who, on her
coming (•( age, in i c6t;, bellowed her and her fortunes on his fon Edmund, Earl of
Lancalier*; 1 ut on the forfeiture o( his fon for treafon acrainfl Edward II. ihe lionour
and cad le were p ranted, in i^og, to Robert de Clillord, a Ilerefordihire Baron, in
whole line it continued till tfi htll C( nturv. I know of no remarkable event that he-
fcl this cadle, excepting t' in ,s dil'manlled by ordinance cf par.ament, in 1648, bc-
caul'e it had receiver! a . .il garriion during the civil wars.

It was rellored, vJi repaired, in 1637-1638, by the famous Anne Clifford, who
made it, with livr ( t(i, r caltlcs her alternate rclidencc. It is leated on the edge of a
deep dingle, pre'tjly yioodeil, and watered by a canal, that ferves to convey Inneltone
to the main tr. nk if the navigation, which paOes near the town. At prelent the callle
leenis more cak uiated fvir habitation than defence. A gateway, with a round tower at
a fmall diilancefrom it. The towers in the caftle arc generady round, Ibme polygonal.
Over tlie entrance is an inl'cription, purporting the time of repair, 'ihe hall is worthy
the hoipitality of the family ; has two fue-places, a hatch to the kitchen, and another 10
the cellar.

The great family piclnre is a curious ptrformai.cc ; and rtill more valuable on ac-
count of the dillinguiihed perlons reprefented. It ij- tripartite, in form ofaikreen. In
the cintre is the celebrated George Clillbrd, Earl of Cumb.rlaiui, the hero of tht^
reign ol Elizabeth ; and his lady, l\Iargaret Uu/Tel, ilaughter of Francis, itcund ],arl of
Bedftnd. He is dreded in armour, (potted with (tars of gold ; but much oi it con.
ccaled by a_,velt and (kirts reaching to his knees ; his helmet and gauntlet, lying on thi

• DugJalc, I3aion. i. fij.

floor.

''I

"1'

f I*'

520 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

floor, arc (luddeJ in like manner. He was born in the year 155^, and by the death of
his father i\>\\ under the guardianflilp of liis royal miilrol's, who placed him under the
tuition of Dodor Whitgift, afterwards Archbilliop of Canterbury. Reapplied hiiufelf
to mathematics ; but foon after leavinr; the college ho felt the Ipirit of his vvariikL' an-
ceftors rife within him, and for the reil of his life dillinguilhed himfelf by dc^ds of arms
honourable to himfelf*, and of ufe to his country, in not fewer than twenfv'-t wo voy-
ages againd the Geryon of the time, Phillip IT. who felt the clTocls of hiu prowefs,
againll the invincible armada, againil; his European doiiunions, and tlie more diitant
ones in America. He war. always fncccfsful againll: the enemy, but often futi'ered great
hardfhips by (forms, by difeafcs, and by famine. Tlie wealth wliich h.; acquircil was
devoted to thefervice of the Hate, for he ipent not only the acqiiifnions of iiis voy:urcp,
but much of his paternal fortune in buikling of Ihips; and much alfo h- ilif-
fipated by his love of horfe-raccs, tournaments, and every expjnfiv.; iliverlion.
Queen Elizabeth appointed him her cluunpion \ in all her lilting luatclus, from
the thirty-third year of her reign ; and in all thof- exeiciles uf tiltings, turn-
ings, and courfes of the field, he excelled all the nobility of his tinv.*. IIis magni-
ficent armour worn on thofe occafions (adorned with rolcs and /?t'//rj Jc hs |)is aoluilly
preferved at Appleby caftle, where is, befides, a copy of this picture. In ttie cour!e of
the life of foldier failor, and courtier, he fell into ihe licentiouinefs fomoiimes incid nt
to the profelfions : but, as the infcription on the piclure imports, the elf cis of his early
education were then felt, for he died penitently, willingly, and clui.ia ly.

His lady llatids by him in a purple gown, and svliite petticoat, cinbroiderod with gold.
She pathetically extends one hand to two beaiitiail buys, as if in tlie action of dilRiaJing
her Lord from fuch dangerous voyages, when more interelling and tender claims ur-
ged the prefence of a parent. How mull he have been afVect.d by his r fufal, when
he found that he had loll both on his return from two of his expcdiiions, if the heart of
a hero does not too often divelf itfelf of the tender fenfations !

The letters of this lady are extant in manufcript, and alfo her diary ; flie unf.)rtu-
nately marries without liking, and meets with the fame return. She mentions iLvcral
minuiix that I omit, being on'y pri)ofs of her attention to acciuMcy. She complains
greatly of the coolnefs of her Lord, and his neglect of his daughter, Anm^ Cdillord ; an 1
endured great poverty, of wh! h ihe writes in a molt moving llrain to James \. to i.veral
great perions, and to the Earl himfelf. All her letters are lunnblc, luppliant, and pa-
thetic, yet the Karl w.ls faid to have parted with her on account of her hi'Ji fpirit §.

Above the two principal fitmres arc painted the heads of two fiflors of tlie Farl, Anno,
Countefs of Warwick, and Elizabeth, Countefs of Hath; and two, tiio lilfersufihe
Countcfs ; Frances, married to Phillip, Lord Wharton ; and ALirgarct, Countefs of
Derby. Beneath each is a long infcription. The feveral infcrlptions were conipol'ed I .y

* At an .iu(li;'ncc the Farl liail after one of liis cxixdltioni, tlic (V^ccn, pfi!;i]is i](T:gncclIy, dropped one
of her ^I'lvcs. \\\i lordlhi'^) to.k \\ up, and prcft iitt-d it to her: f.i. jfracioiifly dcfirtd him to liirp it .k n
mark other tlU-eiii. Thin ^'r.ii.'t'yinjj hi-; amhiti 11 uiih ;i rcw.ir.l th.il Ciiitcil iiir iiuijtlly'ii avarice. } le
adorned it with di^imnnds, and «'iirc it in the fiont oi his high-crowned hat on days ot touninnuiita Tni".
i» cxpiLlicd ii. the tiiii- print ot him, hy Robert White.

t Mr. Walpole, in lii^ mifccU.nKdiis Aniiqu'lif, has favoiirtd iis wiili a very rnterta'iiiiij; acroii it of
invcftiturc. ' K- fuicceded the gallant old Knight .Sir Henry Lea, in 15^0, who with imieh ccremr'ny tc
fi^jiitd the offur.

|; 1 have leea ui thi- <-olUc\toii oi her Grace the Diitchefi Dowajrcr of Portia-id, ii book of diawiii^-; i,i
all K'H^hc-iillvrR of hit time, drclfcd io their rii.h armour. Among othcis is l!ie llaiiol Cuni'eil.oiJ, lu
the very armour 1 i.iciition.

fj Theie an ! fvcti' other aticcdot?! of ihc family, I found in certain M.SS. Irttcri nnJ i!i;iiii- u! the
Countefs and lur daughter.

An Mo

PBNNAMT'b second tour XK SCOTLAND.

511

Anne ClifTord, with the affiflance of Judge Hales, who perufed and methodized for her
the necc'lTary papers and evidence!* *.

'I'he two Tidc-lcaves (licw the portraits of ?icr celebrated daughter, Anne Clifford, af-
terwards Countefs of Dorfet, Pembroke, and Montgonnry ; the inofl eminent perfon
of her age for intclledlual acconiplifliments, for fpirit, majTnificence, and deeds of bene-
volence. Both thcfe paintings are fail lengths : the one reprefents her at the age of
thirteen, {landing in her (huiy, drefled in white, embroidered with flowers, her head
adonu'd with great pearls. One hand is on a mufic-book, her lute lies by her. I'he
book informs us of the fafliionable courfe of reading ajuong people of rank in her
days. I perceived among them, Eufebius, St. Augulline, Sir Philip Sidney's Arcadia,
Godfrey of Boulogne, the French Academy, Camden, Ortelius, AgrippajOn the vanity
of occult Sciences, kc. kc. Abo\' are heads of Mr. Samuel Daniel, her tutor, and
Mrs. Anne Taylor, iier governefs ; the lad appearing, as the infcription fays (he was, a
religious and good woman. This memorial of the inllruftors of her youth is % mod
grateful acknowledgement of the benefits (he received from them. She was certainly
a moft happy fubjtft to work on ; for, according to her own account, old Mr. John
Dcnham, a great allronomer, in her father's houfe, ufed to fay, *' that the fweet in-
fluence of the Pleiades, and the bands of Orion, were powerful both at her conception
and birth j" and when (lie grew up, Do£lor Donne is reported to have faid of her,
that " flie knew well how to difcourfe of all things, from predeftination to flea-fjlk" |.

In the other leaf flie appears in her middle age, in the (tate of widowhood, dreffed in
a black gown, and black veil, and white lleeves, and round her waift is a chain of great
pearls ; lierhair long and brown ; her wedding ring on the thumb of her right hand,
which is placed on the bible, and Charron's Book of Wifdom. The reft of the books
are of piety, excepting one of diftillations, and excellent medicines. Such is the figure
of the h-Toic daughter of a hero father, whofe fpirit didated this animated anfwer to the
infolcnt minifter of an ungrateful court, who would force into one of her boroughs, a
perfon difagreeable to her :

" I have been bullied by an ufurper : I have been neglefted by a court ; but I will
not be didated to by a lubjcdt. Your man (ha'nt ftand.

*' Anne Dorfet, Pembroke, and Montgomery."

Above her are the heads of her two huftiands, Richard Earl of Dorfet, who died in
1624; an aimable nobleman, a patron of men of letters, and bounteous to diftreifod
worth. The other is of that brutal fimpleton, Philip, Earl of Pembroke, the jult iub-
jocl of Butler vS ridicule, wicnn Ihe married lix years after the death of her H HI lord.
Yet llie fpcaks favourably of each, notwithftanding th-'ir mental qualifications were fo
different : " Thole two Lords, fays Ihe, to whom I wa;- by the divine providence mar-
ried, were in their feveral kindcs worthy noblemen as any in the kingdom ; yet it was
my niisfortune to have croffes and contradictions with them both. Nor did there want
malicious ill-willcrs to blow and foment the coals of diffenfion between us, fo as in both
their life-times the marble [lillars of Knowle, inKent, and Wilton, in Wiltthire, were to
me but the gay arbours of aiiguiih, infonuich as a wife man, who knew the infide of
my fortune, would often fiw, that I lived in both thefe my Lords great families as the
river oi Roan, or Rodaiuis, runs through the lake of Geneva, whhout mingling any
part of its ftieams with that of the lake."

• Life of Lov J Kctpcr Norili.

VOL. III.

■f Biniop Ralnbow'i difcourfe at her funeral, in 1657.

But

ill

■ If

522 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

But file was releafcd from her foconJ marriage by the de;'.th of her hulljand, in 1^50.
After which the greatnefs of her mind burll out in full and uninterrupteil luilre. She
re-built, or repaired, fix of her ancient caflles ; (ho reilored fevcn chMrcih s, or chapels;
founded one hofpital, and repaired anotlier. She livrd in va(l hofjiiiaiity at all her
callles by turn?, on the beautilul motive of dil'penfing her charity in rotation, among
the poor of her va(l efhitcs. She travelled in a horfe-iiitcr ; and often took new and
bad roads from caflle to cadle in order to fmd out caufe of laying out money among
the indigiiu, by employiiig thtm in the repairs. 1 he o|-)ulcnt alfo ftit the eftltt of
her generolity, for flic never fu'fered any vilitors to go away wiiiiout a prefent, ingeni-
oufly contrived according to their quality *. Aher the relloration llie was lolicited to
go to court, but declined the invitation, laying " tliat if llie went, Ihe mull: have a pair
of blinkers fuch as her hori'es had, lell (he (liould fee Inch things as would offend her."
She often fate ir perlbn as fheriffefs of the county of Weltmorelanii ; at length died, at
the age of eighi -fix, in the year 1676, and w.is intirrcd at i-\ppleby. Her great pof-
feflions devolveu to Jolin Earl of Thanet, who married Margaret, her elilelt daughter,
by the F.ari of Dorfet.

Here are four heads of this illuflrious Countefs, in the ftates of childhood, youth,
middle, and old age f. l\ly print is taken from one refenibling the lad iu the gallery at
Stra\Uierry.IIill, wliich the lion. Horace Walpole was fo obliging as to permit to be
copied J.

In one of the rooms if, a fictitious picture of the fair Rofamond, daughter of Waher
de Clifford, and niidrefs to Henry II. She is dreffed in the mode of the reign of Eliza-
beth ; but at her ear is a red rofe, an allulion of the painter to her name.

A pifture of a young perfon, with a crown by her. Another of a name infcribed,
lultus index animi ; and a third portrait, half length, of the great Earl of Cumberland,
in a white hat, are the moll remarkable unnoticed.

1 mult mention two good odagonal roonjs, in one of which is fomc fingular tapeftry,
exprefling the punifhment of the vicep. Cruautc is reprefentcd with head, hands, and
feet in the Hocks ; and Mal-bouche and Vil-parler undergoing the cutting off of their
tongues.

On the ftecple of the church is an inf. ription, importing, that it was repaired after it
had been ruined in the civil wars, by La.Iy Clifford Countefs of Pembroke, in 1655.
Within the church are infcriptions, on plain Itoncs, in memory of the three fird liarls
of Cumberland. Thofe on the two firil; relate little more tlian their lineage: but the
noble hidorian of the family informs us, that the firll Earl was brought up with
Henry VIII. and beloved by him. 'I'hat he was one of tii. mod eminent lords of his
time, for noblenjfs, gallantry, and courtlhip, but waited much of his edate. Taat the
fecond Earl at the beginning was alfo a great waller of his edate, till he retired into the
country, when he grew rich. He was much aildictcd to the lludy and practice of alchemy
and chemidry, and a great didiller of waters for medicines ; was lludious in all man-
ner of learning, and had an cxccliem library both oi written-haud books, and printed §.

• Life of I-ord Kct'pii Nurth, IJ^t.

f tSlie fayii in licr jiijiy, lli.it in |6 7, h«r piftiirc was drawn hy Latlsiiij^. She mentions alio fume of
the an.iilcniciiis of tjic liii.c, ikIi as Gltcku, at wlucli Ilic loll ijl. ami ii.iricy-brc.ik, at wlmh llie i^Uycd
on the bowlriig-jrreiti at 11 1 k'liirlh

I Ml W'jljjdir flu will u,t a rr.til il, wild the tifail of t'-c Countefs, ex.u'ily rrfemMiii;; t!)f pifliire. On
the rcvtilc i«rtligmi>, ii']jn-lriitr(l t,y a tiiiiiilc li^'urc ctowiicd, ahd iLutiiii^. In one )ia:iJ the bible ; tlic
left arm cnibiaci'a a iiuli taller tiun licifilf.

It arm cnil>iat.i'a a iruli taller ttuii ficililt.
§ Life u( Lidy Aiiuc LiiSjid, &c. by hctfelli MS.

Cominuo

pennant's SrCOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

Continue my journey through a pleafant vale, watered by the Are, or the Gentle
River, as the Celtic Ara fignifies, cxpreffive of its fmooth courl'e *. Along its Ciie
■winds the canal, which, when finifhed, is to convey the manufadtures of Leeds to Liver-
pool. Ride beneath a great aquedud, at Kildwick, and have foon after a view of the
rich valley that runs towards Leeds. Reach Kighly, at the bottom of another rich vale,
tluit joins the former. This place has a confidorable manufafture of figured cverlaft-
ings, in iniitaiion of French filks, and of fiialloons and callimancoes ; and numbers of
people get their livelihood by fpi""i"g of wool for the (locking-weavers. The an-
cient family of Kighly take their name from this town. One of them, Hjnry Kighly,
" obtained from Edward L for this his manour, the privileges of a market and fair,
and a free-warren, fo that none might enter into thofe grounds to chace there, or with
defign to catch any thing pertaining to the faid warren, without the permiQion and
leave of the faid Henry and his fucceilbrs" f.

After crofling fome very difmal moors, varied with feveral tedious afcents and de-
fcents, reach, at the foot of a very fleep hill, the great town of

Halifax, or the Holy-Hair, from a legendary tale not worth mentioning. It is feated
in a very deep bottom, and concealed from view on every fide, till approached very
nearly. 'I'he ihvets are narrow ; the houfcs moltly built and covered with (lone,
and the (Iretts have been lattly paved in the manner of thofe at Edinburgh. 'Ihe
town extends far in length, but not in breadth. Here is only one church, fpacious,
ibpported by two rows of odlagonal pi'lars, and fupplied with a handfome organ. The
C^onqueroi- bcllovved the lordfhip of Wakefield |, of which this place is part, on his re-
h:'' •■ William Earl of W^arren and Surry, who gave the church and manour to the
a' . " Lewes ; and his fuccelfjrs conllantly held courts here from that time to the dif-
i •'•• r. ^. Tlie paridi is of vail extent, contains above one and forty thoufand inhabi-
tants, and is fupplied with twelve cliapels. In the town are feveral meeting-houfes ;
one, called the chapel, is a neat and elegant building, erected by the independents, and
even ftuccoed.

Halifax rofe on the decline of the woollen trade at Rippon ; which was brought
from that town in tiie time of a Mr. John Waterhoufe, of this place, who was born in
144;!, and lived near a century. In the beginning of his lime, here were only thirteen
houfes, but in 1556 above a hundred and forty lioufliolders paid dues to the vicar || ;
and in I 738, lays Mr. Wright, there were not fewer than eleven hundred families.
The woollt-n manufadures ilourilh here greatly ; inch as that of the narrow cloth, bath-
coatings, (balloons, everlai^ings, a fort of coarl'e broad cloth, with black hair liil for
Portugal, and with blue for Turkey ; fayes, of a deep colour, for Guinea ; the lail are
packed in pieces of twelve yards and a half, v. nipped in an oil cloth, painted with ne-
groes, elephants, &c. in order to captivate thofe poor people ; and perhaps one of thefe
bundles ar.d a bottle of rum may be the price of a man in the infamous trallic. Many
b!'M)d-rcd clothes are exported to Italy, fi'om whence they are fuppoi'ed to be fent to
Turkey. The bkus are fold to Norway. The manufadlure is tar from being confined
to tiio neighbourhood, for its ir;Ha'?nce extends as tar as Settle, near thirty miles diitant,
ciiliLT ia the ("pinning or weaving branches. I'he great manufaclurcrs give out ailock
of wool to the artificers, who return it again in yarn or cloth ; but many taking in a lar-
ger quantity of work than they can finiih, are obliged to advance farther into the coun-

14,1

I !'1

* Camden, ii. R5-, wlio fays, that the Aran's, the modciii Saone, takes its rame for the fane reafon,
'"li.: .-wifn /\ar iV mtv rujiid.

f Camden, ii. iy).

t Wiight'* Halifax, 202.

X 2

§ Wriglii, 8.

[! Ibid.

ivy

5S4 pennant's SHCOND tour in SCOTLAND.

try in fearch of more hands, which caufcs the trade to fpread from place to place,
vhich has now happily extended its infiuonce ; but not always alike, for it is bounded
by the kerfies at Soylnnd,and by the bayf, at Rochdale.

October 2. In pafling through the end of Halifax, obferve a ftjuare fpot, about four
feet high and thirteen broad, made of neat alhler ftone, accefliblo on one fide by tour or
five fteps. On this was placed the Maiden, or inftrument for beheading of criminals ;
a privilege of great antiquity in this place. It feems to have been confined to the limits
of the foreft of Hardwick, or the ei -'itetn towns and hamlets within its prccinfts. The
time when this cuftom took plac? unknown ; whether Earl Warren, Lord of this
foreft, might have ellabiilhed it among the fanguinary laws then in ufe againft the in-
vaders of the hunting rights, or whether it might not take place after the woollen manu-
fadures at Halifax began to gain fbength, is uncertain. The laft is very probable i
for the wild country around the town was inhabited by a lawlefs fet, whofe d- preda-
tions on the cloth-tenters might foon ftifle the cfibrts of infant induftry. For the pro-
tection of trade, and lor the greater terror of offenders, by fpeedy execution, this cuf-
tom feems to have been eRabliflied, fo as at laft to receive the force of law, which was,
*' that if a telon be taken within the liberty of the forelt of Hardwick, with goods
ftolen out, or within the faid precini^s, either hand-habend, back berand, or con-
feflion'd, to the value of tliirteen-pence half-penny, he Ihall, after three market days or
mecting-days within the town of Halifax, next after fuch his apprehenfion, and being
condemned, be taken to the gibbet, and there have his head cut from its body. *"

Theofiender had always a fair trial ; for as foon as he was taken he was brought to
the Lord's bailiff at Halifax : he was then expofed on the three markets (which here
were held thrice in a week) placed in a ftocks, with the goods ftolen on his back, or if the
theft was of the cattle kind, they were placed by him j and this was done both to ftrike
•error into others, and to produce new informations againft him +. 'I'h? bailiff then
fummoned four freeholders of each town within the foieft to form a jury. The felon
ill)'! profecutors were brought face to face ; the goods, the cow, or horfe, or whatfo-
rvcr was ftolen, produced. If hn ^as found guilty, he was remanded to prifon, had
if week's time allowed for prepa>>,iop, and then was conveyed to this f|)ot, where his
head was (truck oft, by this machne. 1 fhould have premifoii, that if" the criminal,
either after apjirehenfioii, or in the wiy to txeeution, could elcape out of the limits of
the foreft 'part being clcfj to the town) thebailiif had no farther power over him : but
if he ftiould *'e caught within the precincts at any time after, he was inunediately exe-
cuted on his former feiitence.

This privile;^e was very freely uliJ during the reign of Kiiz.ibeth : the ncords be-
fore that titne were loft. 'l\venfy-:.vc f'uftcred in her reign, and at lealt twelve from
J 623 to 165c ; afier which 1 believe the privilege was no more exert-, il.

This matl'ine of death is now deltroxod ; but 1 fiw one of ilie r.iiiu' kiiul in a room
under the parliament-houfe at ]'Alinbiii7;h, where it was it.troihicid by the Kegent
Morton, who took a model of it as he (lalTed throu;jh Halifax, and at 1. th fuflered
by it hiir.felf. It is in form of a paint-.r'.-- eafel, and abont ten feet high : .it four feet
Irom the bottom is a crofs bar, on vhith tlie felon la}s his head, which is kept down by
another placed above. In the inner edges of the frame are grooves; in thefe is
placed a fharp axuiih a vaft weight of lead, fupported at the very fummit wiih a peg ; to
that peg is faftencd a cord, which the execuiiuucr cutting, the ax falls, and does the af-

* Wrij^*";, J'4, .ind HaliTax and its ('lli'iit law, Uc >9.
■f Gibbct-Liiw (ityn, dial he ii rxpolttl alter cuiivift^un.

fair

WNNANT 8 SECOND TOUR. IN BCOILAND*

5i5

fair cffeftually, without fufFering the unhappy criminal to undergo a repetition of (Irokea,
as ' >i., been the cafe in the common method. I muft add, that it' the fiiff'ercr is con-
demned for dealing a horfe or a cow, the firing is tied to the beaft, which, on being
whipped, pulls out the peg, and becomes the executioner.

On defcending a hill, have a fine view of a vale, with the Calder meandring through
it. Towards the upper end are two other little vales, whofe fides are filled with fmall
houfes, and bottoms w^th fulling-mills. Here are feveral good houfes, the property of
wealthy clothiers, with warehoufes in a fuperb and elegant (tyle ; the fair oUentation of
induftrious riches. Dine at a neat alehoufe, at the foot of the hill, at the head of the
canal, which conveys the manufactures to the Trent. Call here on my old correfpon-
dcnt Mr. Thomas Bolton, and am furprized with his valt colleftion of natural hiflory,
got together to amufe and improve his mind "jfter the fatigues of bufinefs.

Crofs the Calder at Lowcrby bridge ; after a deep afcent arrive in a wild and
moory country, pal's by the village of Loyland ; reach Blackftone-edge, fo called from
the colour of certain great fiones that appear on the fummit. The view is unbounded,
of Lancalhire, Chefliire, and Wales. The ancient road down this hill was formerly
tremendous j at prefont a new one winds down the fides for two miles excellently
planned. The parilh of Halifax reaches to this hill It is my misfortune that the Rev.
Mr. "Watfon's full account of this pariOi did not fall into my hands till this fheet was
going to.the prefs ; for my account would have received from it confiderable improve-
ments. A little before our arrival on the top of this l.'.U, enter the county of Lan-
cafter.

Reach Rochdale, a town irregularly built, noted for its manufaftory of bayvs. The
church is on an adjacent eminence, to be reached by an afcent of about a Irndred and
feventeen flcps. The Roche, a fmail ftream. runs near the town.

Oft. II. After fix miles ride, pafs by Middleton. In a pretty vale, on an emi-
nence, is Alkrington, the feat of Afliton Lever, El'q. where I continue the whole day,
aitraded by his civility, and the elegance of his inufeum.

0£l. 12. Wearied with the length of my journey, haften through Manchefter and.
Warrington, and find at home the fame I'atifadory conclufion as that of my former
tour.

■m

III

APPENDIX.— Number I.

Concerning the Con/lit ution of the Church of Scotland.

PRESBYTERIAN government in Scotland took place after the reformation of
popery, as being the form of ecckfiafliad government mod agreeable to the genius
and inclii)atit)ns oi the people of Scotland. '\Vhcn James VI. fucceeded to the crown
ffF.iijM.iiid, it is well known that, during his reign and that of his lucccfl'ors ot the
family cf St' w art, licfigns were formed of altering the conditution of our civil govern-
ment, anil .viulering dur kings more abrokite. The eiiablifluneut of epifcopacy in
Scotland was thought to be one point proper to facilitate the execution of thefed-iigns.
Ep'lcopacy was acconlingly eihiblilhed at length, and continued to be the gosernment
ef the church till the Revolution, when, fucli dcfigns i'ubliiling nolonj.er, Prediyteriau
government was redored to Scotland. It was edsblidied by aft of paiiiiimsnt in 1690,
and was afterwards fecurcd by an cxprcfs article in the treaty of union between the

two

:^^^i;

. ."ii

.'■.'1

• Ml

526

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

two kingdoms of England and Scotlimd. Among the nuniftcrs of Scotland there fuh-
fifts a pcrfeft equality ; that is, no minidor, coniidcrod as an individual, has anauthori-
tative jurifdidion over another. Jurildi'!:li(>n is competent tor thoni only wlien they art
in a colleclive body, or as a court of judicature ; and then there is a fubordination of
one court to another, or inferior and fuperior courts.

'1 he courts clhiblilhcd by law are ihe four following, viz. Cnurch S^fiions, Prcfby-
teries. Provincial Synods, and above all a National or General Aflc nihiy.

A Church Seflion is compnfed of the niinilier of the parifh aiui cert.iln difcnet lay.
men, who are chofen and ordained for the exerjife of difcipline, and are called Elders.
The number of thcfe Elders varies according to the extent of the paiifli. 'I'wo of
them, together with the Minifler, are necefliuy, in order to tlicir holding a legal mi>et-
ing. The minilKr always prefides in theft niei tings, and is called Moderator ; but
has no other authority but what belongs to the IVieles of any other court. The Church
Seflion is appointed for infpeding the morals of the paiilliioners, and managing the
funds that are appropriated for the maintenance of the poor within their own bounds.
When a perfon is convidcd of any indance of immoral coniiuct, or of what is incon-
fiftent with his ChrilHan profellion, the Churih Sillion iidiict;- lome ecclcliailical cen-
fure, fuch as giving him an admonition or rebuke; or if the crime be of a grofs and
publick nature, they appoint him to pjofefs his repentance in the fice of the whole
congregation, in order to make fatisfaditm for the puhlitk otiVnce. 'I'he highell
church cenfure is excommunication, which is feldom inllided but {or contumacy, or
for fome very atrocious crime obUinatelv pcrfilled in. In ionner limes there wore
certain civil pains and penalties which followed upon a fentence of excomntunication ;
but by a IJritifti ftatute thefe are happily abolilhed. The church of Scotland addrefl'.'s
its cenfurcs only to the confciences of men ; and if they cannot reclaim otienders by
the methods of perfuafion, they think it inconlillent with the Ipirit ot true religion, to
have recoule to compulfory ones, fuch as temporal p lins and penaltie'?.

If the perfon thinks himfelf aggrieved by the Church Siflion, it is competent for
him to leek redrels, by entering an appeal to the Prdbvtery, which is the next fu-
perior court. In like maimer he may appeal from the Prefbuery to the Provincial
Synod, and from the Synod to the Allembiy, whole fenteuce is liiud in all cccUlladical
matters.

A Prefbytcry confifts of the Minifters within a certain didricV, and alfo of one ruling
Elder from each Church Seflion within the didritt. In fettling the boundaries of a Prel-
bytery, a regard was paid to the hiuation of the country. Where the countrv is popu-
lous and champaign, there are inilances of thirty Minillers and as many Elders hei:!-'
joined in one Prclhytery. In mountainous countries whiTe travellin',' is more difiicult,
there are only fcvcn or eight Minillers, in fome places fewer in a i'relhvterv. 'I'lie
number of Prelbyterics is computed to be at about levt nty. Prelbyt. ; vs reviev the pro-
cedure of Church Stfliois, and judge in reh-rencts and appeals that are brought before
them. Tluy take trials of candidates for the miniltry ; ar.d if, iij >n h\ch trial, tliey
find them duly qualified, they licenfc them to preach, but not to v f'pente the facra-
menis. Such licentiates are called Probationers. It is not common li r the church of
Scotland to ordain or confer hily c^rc'ers on fuel) licentiati s till tluy be prtfentcd to
fome vacant kirk, and thereby acquire a right t) a benefice.

It is the {)rivileges ot Prefbyteries to judge their own. meii'bers, at leidl in the full
inllaiice. They mavb.judced for h nl'v, th.u is, lur preaching or publilhing lioc-
triiRS that are contrary to the publick Itandard impot'd by act of l*arliaii!> at and Adem-
Lly ; or lor any inftance of immoral conduct. Prolecutions for hi. rely were formerly

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

527

more frequent than they an? at pre/cnt, but happily a more liberal fpirlt has pr'ned
grounJ au)ong the ciei'^y of Scotland. They thinic more freely than they di^l of o d,
and confeqiKnt'y a fpiiit of inquiry and moderation fetms to be on the grc wing ' nJ ;
lb tliat profccution-, for herefy are become more rare, and are generally looked up-;,i as
invidious. Some fcnlible men among the clergy of Scotlrmd look upon fubf. ripiions
to certain articles and creeds of human compofition as a grievance, from which they
would willingly be delivered.

Pi':fl)yteries are more fevere in their cenfurcs upon their own members for any in-
flance of inmioral condud. If the perfon be convicted, they fufpend him from the
cxercife of his miniflerial office for a liiiiiiod time ; but if the crime be of a heinous
liaturc, tliey depofe or deprive him of his clerical charader ; fo that he is no longer
a minifter of the church of Scotland, bur forfeits his title to his benefice, and other
privileges of the eftablifhed church. However, if the perfon thinks himfelf injureu by
the fentcnce of the Prelbyrery, it is lawful for him to appeal to the i rovincial Synod,
within whofe bounds his Prcfbytery lies ; and iVom the vSynod he may appeal to the
National Afl'embly. Pnfbyterios hold their meetings generally every month, except in
remote countries, and have a power of adjourning themfelvesto whatever time or place
within their dillrict they fhall think proper. They choofe their own Prasfes or Mode-
rator, who mufl be a minifter of their own Prelbytery. The ruling Elders who fit in .
Picfbyteries, mull be changed every half-year, or elfe chofen again by their refpedive
Church Sedions.

Provinciid Synods are the next fuperior courts to Prefbyteries, and are compofed of
the fevcral Prelbyteries within the province, and of a ruling Elder frotn each Church
Seilio , The ancient diocefes of the bilhops are for the mod part the boundaries of
a Synod. Mod of the Synods in Scotland meet twice every year, in the months of
April and October, and at every meeting they choofe their Praefes or Moderator, who
mull be a clergyman of their own number. They review the procedure of Prefbyteries,
and judge in appeals, references at.d complaints, that are brought before them from the
inferior courts. And if a.Prelljytery fliall be found negligent in executing the ecclefi-
adical laws againfl any of their mend^ers, or any other perfon within their jurifdiftion, .
the Synod can call them to account, and cenfure them as they (hall fee caufe.

The General AiTembly is the fupreme court in ecclcfiatlical matters, and from \which
there lies no appeal. As they have a power of making laws and canons, concerning the
dilcipline and government of the church ;■ the publick fervice of religion, the King
fends alwavs a Commilhoner to rcprelent lus royal perfon, that nothing may be enaded
inconfif'. i with the laws of the Hate. The perfon who reprefents the King is generally
fome Scots nobleman, whom His Majeily nominates annually fome time before the
meeting of the alfembly, and is allowed a fuitable fal:iry tor defraying the expence of
this honourable oflice. He is prefent at all the meetings of the alfembly, and at all
tlifir debiUcs and lieliberations. After the all'euibly is conllituted, he prefents hiscom-
miilion and delivers a ipeech ; and, when they have hnilhed their bufinefs, which they
commonly ilo in twelve tlays, ho adjourns the alfembly, and appoints the time and
place of their next annual meeting, which is generally at Edinburgh, in the month of
May,

1 !ie Allembly !;. compofed of Minifiers and ruling Elders chofen annua'ly from each
Pn Ibytery in Scotland. As the number of Minillersand Elders in a Prcfbytery varies,
fii the number of their reprcfenratives mult hold a proportion to the Tiumbi-r of Mmif-
t IS and elders that are in the Prelbytery. The proportion is fixed by laws and regu-
lutions for that purpofe. Each royal burgh and univorfity in Scotland has hkewife the

6 privilege

■ '-'III

n1
'' •■'•I 111

■ y. '
■is;

SiA

pennant's second TOtIR IN SCOTLAND.

privilegft of choofing a ruling Elder to tlio AlTembly. All elections mud at lc;\l1 la
niaJe forty days betoro the iiKoting oF tlio Alll-mhly. Thoir jiirifdidion is oitlu-r con-
llitutivo or judicial. By the firll they have authniity to make laws in ecclciiadical
luaitrrs ; by the other thry juilf^f in ri.'t'orencos and appeals brought befnrc thL-ni tioin
th:.' Iiibordinatj courts, and their fontenccs are dccilive and final. Ow point, which
greaily employs their attention, is the fettltincnt of vacant pariihcs, 1 he common
people of Scotland are prcailv prijudiced againll the law of patronage. IIlIioc when a
patron prelt-nts a camiidato to a vacant parifli, the p,\rin)i()n>.'rs Irvcpicnlly make great
oppolition to the fttilemimt of the prefentee, and apjieal from the inferior courts to the
Aii'embiy. I'he All'cmbly now-a-days are not ililpDHcl to indulge the parilhioners in
unreai'unahli" oppolition to prefentoes. On the odier hand, they are unwilling to fettle
the preltntee in opp(^fiiion to the whole people, who reiufe to lubmit to his minillrv ,
becaule in this caie his minitlrations anicngil them mult be ulelefs ant' without ctfed.
'I'iie Aflembly, therefore, for the moll part delay giving fentence in fuch cafes, till once
they have iifed their endeavours to reconcile the parilhioners to the prefentee. But if
their attempts this ways prove unfuccelsful, they proceeil to fettle t!ie prefentee in obe-
dience to the acl of parliament concerning patronages. Upon the whole it appears that,
in the judicatories of the church of Scotland, there is an equal reprefcntation of the
laity as of the clergy, which is a great fccurity to the laity agiinft the ufurpations of
the clergy.

'1 he inifmefs of every minifter in a parifli is to perform religious worfhip, and to
preach in the language of the country (o his congregation every Sunday, and likewife
on other extraordinary occafions appointed by the laws and regulations of the church.
The tendency of their preaching is to inllrud their bearers in the cffential dodrines of
natural and revealed religion, and improve thefe inltrudions in order to promote the
praftice of piety and focial virtue. Of old, it was cullomary to preach upon contro-
verted and inyilerious points of divinity, but it is now hoped that the generality of the
clergy confine the fubjed of their preaching to what has a tendency to promote virtue
and ^ood morals, and to make the people peaceable and ufeful members of fociety.

Minillers likewife examine their parilhioners annually. 'I'liey go to the dillerent
towns and villages * of the parilh, and in an ealy and familiar manner converfe with them"
upon the etfential do<^rines of religion. They make trial of their knowledge by putting
quedions to them on tlufe heads. The adult as well as children are catechifed. They
likewife vilit their parilhes and inquire into the behaviour of their feveral parifliione s,
and admonifli 'hem for whatever they find blaineable in their condud At thefe vifi-
tations the minilter inculcates the praclice of ti . relative and focial duties, and infills
upon the necelTity ot the pratiice of them. And if there happen to be any quarrels
among neighbours, the miniller endeavours by the power of perfuafion to bring about
a reconciliation. But in this part of their condud much d<pends upon the temper,
prudence, and dilcretinn of minillers, who are cloathed with the fame paflions, preju-
dices, and intirmities that other men are.

• 1 muil obf<rve, that nifliop Huriift (liy hirlli a Scntcliman) adopted fti his diocffc the zoal of the thiircK
of his native comitiy, aiid its al tent ion to tlie inuruU and j»oodc(>tidii't of the clirjjy and tin ir flockH. N^t
icntent wiili the ii(i il tiiriinlal vilitatioin, he every liunnicr, diiriii^j IX weeks, ninde a pioguls through
iome tliliiirtof his liiiicetc, preaching and conlirming from church to chur(.li, fo that htlore the return of
the triennial \iiitation, he heranie well aecjiiaintrd with the hihaviour of every inciiinhri;!. He preached
every ^iitiday in f.)nu i hui<> oithe city of SalKbury ; catechifed and inlli lifted its youth for contirination ;
w« molt vigilant and flri»t in his examination of candidates for lioly orders ; was an ii'viiicible eneti.y to plu-
ralities, and of courfe to non-retidcnts ; filled hi-) office with worth nnd dij;nily. and hy his tpilcopal n\<.-
ritt, it, it tu be hi>{)ed, may have stoned fur llic acLnuwIed^cd blemilhes in his biographical character.

1 To

pennant's second tour in SCOTLANn.

To this fcnfible account of the church of North Britain, I beg leave to add another,
which may be confidcrcd as a fort of fupplcinent, and may ferve to fling light on fome
points untouched in the preceding ; it is the extract from an anfwer to fome queries I
it'nt a worthy corrcfpondent in the Highlands, to whom I am indebted for many fen-
lible communications :

" To apprehend well the prefcnt flatc of our church patronage and mode of fettle-
riient, we mud briefly view this matter from the Reformation. At that remarkable
period the whole temporalities of the church were refumed by the crown and parlia-
ment ; and loon after a new maintenance was fettled for minifters in about 960 parifhes.
The patrons of the old, fplcndid popifh livings, ftill claimed a patronage in the new-
modelled poor flipends for parifli ininiflers. The lords or gentlemen, who got from
the crown grants of the fuperiorltics and lands of old abbies, claimed alio the patronage
of all the churches which were in the gift of tliofe abbies during popery. The King
too ci.'imed the old patronage of the crown, and thofe of any eccleliadic corporations
not granted away.

" Lv y-patronages were reckoned always a great grievance by the church of Scotland;
and ac ordingly fru" the beginning of the Reformation the church declared againfl
lay-patronage and prefentations. 'ihe eccltTiaflic laws, or a£ls of aflembly, confirmed at
iait by parliament, required, in order to the fettlement of a minifter, fome concurrence
of the congregation, of the gentlemen who had property within the cure, and of the
elders of the parifii.

•' 'I'he elders, or kirk, feflion, are a number of perfons who, for their wifdom, piety,
and knowh.'dge, are tlefted from the body of the people in every parifli, and continue
for lifoy^ bene ^eretitibus, to allift the parifli miniller in fupprefling immoralities, and
regulating the affairs of the parifli. Three of thefe men and a minifter make a quorum,
and form the loweft of our church courts.

" Thus matters continued to the year 1649, when by aft of parliament patronages
were aboliflied entirely, and the eleclion or nomination of miniflers was committed to
the kirk feffion or elders ; who, in thofe days of univerful fobriety and outward appear-
ance'at lead of religion among the prelbyterians, were geni'rally the gentlemen of bed
condition in the parifh who were in cummunion with the church. After the reftoratioii
of Kiiig Charles II., along with epiicopacy patronages returned, yet under the old laws ;
and all debates were finally determinable by the general aU'embly, which even under
epifcopacy in Scotland was the lupreme ecclefiaftic court. Thus they continued till
the Revolution, when the prcfliytf.lan model was reilored by ad of parliament.

" The people chofe their ow'i miniders, and matters continued in this form till the
year 1711, when Queen Anne's miniltry intending to defeat the Hanover fuccelfion,
took all methods to harrals fuch as 'vere firmly attached to it, which the Preflayteriart
gentry and clergy ever were, both from principle and interelt. An adt therefore was
oittained, and which is flill in force, reftoring patrons to their power of eleding
niiiuders.

" By this aft the King is novi' in pofleflion of the patronage of above 500 churches
out of g^o, having not only the old rii;hts of the crown, but many patronages acquired
at the Reformation not yet alienated; all the patronages of the fourteen Scots bilhops,
and all the patronages of the lords and gentlemen forfeited in the years 1715 and 1745.
Lords, gentlemen, and magitlrates of boroughs, are the patrons of the remaining
churches. A patron mull prefcnt a qualified perfon to a charge within fix months of
tho lad incumbent's removal or death, otherwile his right falls to the prefbytery.

VOL. ni. 3 Y "A pref-

>^i||

;^^i

";;;^ii

•ii'^i

53°

PiNNANT S SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

" A prcfl)ytory connHs of fevernl niinillcrs and ilJcrs. All pariflios are annexed to
fume pivfbytery. The prcfbytcry is tlic Iccond cliuich court, and llioy revile the aClsot
the kirk-ffllidn, which is the lowed. Above tlh- ))refl)yury is the fynoJ, which is a
a court confilliiiR of feveral prcfbyteriis, and from ail thile there lies an appeal to the
general affeinbly, which is the fuprenie church court in Scotland. '1 his fuprenie court
confills of the King rcprcfcntcd by his coinnuflioiier, nunillers from the diliVr lit pref.
bytcries, and ruling ciders. 'I hey meet annu.illy at Edinburgh, enad laws lor the
good of the church, and finally determine all controverted eledions of niinillers. They
can prevent a clergyman's tranlportation from one charge fo another. They can fiiui
a prclentce qualifn-d or unqualilied, and confequuitly oblige the p.ilron to prcl'ent
aiiuthcr. They can depofe irom the miiiiflry, and ev.ry intrant into holy orders be-
comes bouuil to lubniit to the dccifions ol this ci.urt ; which, from the days of our re-
former John Knox, has appropriated to itlelf the titles of " The very venerable and very
reverend Aflcnibly" of the Clhurch of Scotland.

" All the clergymen of our comnuinion are upon a par as t;?aulhi.rity. We can enjoy
no pluralities. Non-refidencc is not known. We are bound !■ ■ a regular ilif'.harge of the
fevcial duties of our oflice. The dill'ereni cures are frec]uenlly vifiteil by the prelbytery
of the bounds; and at thefe \ilitationK (irict enquiry is made into the life, dodrinc,
and diligence of the incumbent. And for default in any of tlufe, h may be fufpended
Jrom preaching ; or if any grofs immorality is proved againll him, he can be imme-
diately depofcd and rendered incapable of ofTiciatiug as a minifler of the gofpcl. Ap-
peal indeed lies, as I faid before, from the decifu n of the inferior to t!ie fupieire court.
" Great care is taken in preparing young men lur the minillry. After going through
a courfe of philofophy in one of our four univerfities, they inuft attend at leall for four
years the divinity hall, where they hear the preledions of the profeflbrs, and perform
the different extrcifes prefcribed them : they mufl attend the Greek, the Hebrew, and
rhetoric dalles; and before ever they are admitted to trials for the miniflry before
n pivibyti ry, they muff lay teftimonials from the .iiirerent profefTors of their morals,
flicir attendance, thv.ir progrt fs, before them ; anc' if upon trial they are found unqua-
lilied, they are cither let alide as unfit for the oflice, or enjoined to apply to their flu-
dies a year or two more.

•■ ()ur livings are in general from 6ol. to 1 20I. flerling. Some fev/ livings are richer,
and a few poorer. Every minifler belides is entitled to a manfion-houfe, barn, and
ftable ; to four acres of arable and three of paflurage land. (3ur livings are exempted
from all public duties ; as are alfo our perfbns from all public flatute-works. As
fchools are eredcd in all our parifhes, and that education is, cheap, our young genera-
tion is beginning to imbibe fome degne of tafle and liberal fentiment unknown to their
illiterate rude forefathers. The Englifh language is cultivated even here amongfl thefe
bleak and dreary mountains. Your divines, your philofophers, your hillorians, your
poets, h.ive found their way to our fequeftercd vales, and are perufed with pK>afure
t ven by our lowly fwains; and the names of Tillotlbn, of Atterbury, of Clarke, of
Seeker, of Newton, of Locke, of Bacon, of Lyttelton, of Dry den, of Pope, of Gay, and
cf Gray, are not unknown in our dillant land."

APPENDIX.

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND,

53»

APPKNDIX—NuMUER 11.

Of the Fa/na Clatnofa,
By the Rev. Mr. RiiTiiEnr^RD.

•' SIR,
" WHEN I had th" ploafmv of fucinp; you liift, you dofircd mc to give you fomo
account of the proccotlinL^s of tlic church of Scothirul agaiull the ininifli-r in cafe of \
fama clamofa, I would think niyfcif ii.ippy if I couKi in tlic hall contribute to allifl you
in your laudable dcfijin of diffufing knovvlL'dj.^o, and of making one part of the kinj^ lom
acquainted with the manners and cudutns of the other. You are well acquainted with
the church courts, and the method of proc'edi.ig in ordinary cafe,>^, as 1 find from your
Tour. An appeal can h2 made from a fefTion to a prelbylcry, from a prefbytery to a
fynod, from a fynod to the g?neral ;:'Vembly, whicii is the fuprcme court, ami from its
decifion there lies no appeal. Any pji fon wiio is of a good charaftcr, may give to the
preibytery a complaint ag lind one of their members ; but the prcfbytery is not to pro-
ceed to the citation of tlie pcrfon acciill^d, (-r, as we term it, to begin the procefs, until
the accufor under Ii's iiand ,';ivt.; in the complaint, with foni^ account of its probal)ility,
and undertakes to make out the libel, under the pain of being confidcrcd asaflandercr.
When fuch anaccufation is brought before them, they are obliged candidly to examine
the affair. But, befides this, ihe prcfbytery confidcrs itfelf obliged to proceed againft
any of its members, it xfaimi claimfa of the fcandal is fo great that they cannot be vin-
dicated, unU'fs they begin the procels. This they can do vithout any particular accufer,
;!fter they have enquired into the rife, occafion, and authors of this report. It is a
maxim in the kirk of Scotland, that xcligion mu(t fuller if the fcand;iIous or immoral
adions of a miniller are not corred.'d. And wherever a miniflcr is r^ puted guilty of
any immorality, (although before the moft popular proaclier in the kingdom) none
almoft will attend upon his in::ii(lry ; therefore the prefljytery, for the fake of religion,
is obliged to proceed a;.^ainft a n\iijifter in cafe of a fama damofa. Tins however is ge-
nerally done with great tendernefs. After they have coufider( il the report railed againfl
him, then they order him to be cited, draw out a full copy of what is reported, with a
lift of the witnefTes' names to be led for proving this allegation. He is now to be for-
mally fummoned to appear before them ; and he has warning given him, at leafl ten
days before the time of his compearance, to give in his anfvvers to what is termed the
libel ; and the names of the witn'.lf - ought alfo to be fent him. If at the time appointed
the miniCier appear, the libc' is to be read to himj and his anfwers are alfo to be read..
If the libel be fouiul relevant, then the prcfbytery is to endeavour to bring him to a
confefTion. If the matter confelfed be of a Icandalous nature, fuch as unrleannefs, the
prefbytery generally depofe hiui from his office, and appoint him in due time to appear
before the co!i<^reg.uiun whore the fcandal was given, and to make public confeilion of
his crime cn^i rep.ntance.

*' If a minifler abfeiit hlmfilf by leaving the place, and be contumacious, without
making any relevant excul'e, a new citation is given him, and intimation is made at his
own church when the congregation is met, that he is to be holdtn as conil'fled, lince
he refuted to appear before them ; and accordingly he is depoled from his office.
When 1 was in C/aithnefs an inflance of this kind took place. A certain niinilter f that
county vi'as reported to have a flronger all"e(^^ion for his maid than his wife. IL; made
frequent excurfioas with this gir! ; and although no proof of criminal couvcrnuioa
could be broui^ht, yet there was gr-it caufe for cenfure, as all the cjuntry took notice

3 V 2 of

■11 '
■'■■J'

'.i^;

'«; .

;

55t PF.NNANT'S SICOND tour in tCOTtAND.

of the affair. Upon mectinfj of tlie prcftytery, his brethren candidly advifcd him to
remove from hib houfc a fervant with vv horn the public report had fcandalizod him ; that
hi r lcnm.r continuance would incrcalo the (ufpicion ; and as it jjavc otfrnce to his pa-
rilhionens, il ho wim\I(1 not iiiuncdiately difiiiifs livr, they mull confider him aa an enemy
to his own intcrelt, if not as guilty of the crime laid to his charge. Thoy remonllrited
with him in thegentlefl terms; but he was Hill refradtory, Kft the country, and carried
his favourite maid in his train. I'he prclbytery confidered this as a confulfion of his
guilt, ;md depofed hiui from his office."

APPENDIX.— NtM-nuR III.
Galic Proverb/.

1 . LEAGllAlDU a ch'bir am biul an anmbtnnn.
Juftice itfelf melts away in the mouth of the feeble.

2. *S liiidir a thlid, 's anmhunn a t/jig.

The Ihong (hall fall, and oft the weak efcape unhurt.

3. 'Sfitdii lamb an fbiumanaich.
Long is the hand of the needy.

4. *S lai.iir an t' anmhunn un uchd trelir.
Strong is the feeble in the bolbm of might.

5. '5 maitb an Sgalban siiil airraid.

The eye of a friend is an unerring mirror.

6. Cba bbi 'm bochd sbgh-ar faibbir.

The luxurious poor (hall ne'er be rich.

7. Far an tain' an abbuin^ 's dun as mugba a f mini.
Mod (lialluw — mod noify.

8. Cba mil clUtb air an o/c, acb gun a dbianamb.
There is no concealment of evil, but not to commit it.

9. G)bbt ua cloinnt'-/i)gt.', bbi *ga toirt *s ga grddiarraidb.
The gift of a child, oft granted— oft recalled.

10. Cba ncilfaoi gun ti choi mcas.
None fo brave without his equal.

i 1. 'S nitnic a tbainig condjuirlic gbfic a b^ul amadaiu.

Oft has the wilcll advice proceeded from the mouth of folly.

12. TuiJJj/icbid an /' cjcb ceithir-cbafacb.

The f«ur-footed hurlc doth often Humble, fo may the (Irong and mighty fall.

13. Mar a cbaimbcas duin' a bbcatba, bbeir e briitb air a cblimbcarfiiacb.
As is a man's own life, fo is his judgment of the lives of others.

1 4. Fanaidb duini: sbna' re s)tb, 'i bbar duinc dona dtii-kum.

The hnunatc man awaits, and he (hall arrive in peace ; the unlucky haflens,
and evil (liall be liis fate.

a 15. Cb.i

mnmant's second Tour in &cotland.

533

15. Cha do chiiir a ghtuifa ris^ ttach do chuii tuar bar it.
Succcfs mufl attend the man who bravely druggies.

1 6. C/ja ghllir a dhetirabhat acb gnhmh.

Triumph never gain'd the lounding words of boaf^.

17. *S trie a dh* fhdt amfuigheal-fochaidy 's a viheith am fuigheal-faramat<i.
Oft has the objert of caul'elefs fcorn arrived at honour, and the once mighty

fcorner fallen down to contempt.

18. Cha do deiobair Fiann r)gh nan Ihoch riamh fear a Ihimhe-deife,

The friend of his right hand was never deferted by Fingal, the king of
heroes.

19. Th)g Dia re h* aire, V cha 'n aire nar thig.

God comcth in the time of diltrefs, and it is no longer didrcfs when He comes.

EPITAPH, by Ben Jonson.
UNDERNEATH this marble he irfe
Lies the fubjcdt of all verfe ;
Sidney's fjfter, Pembroke's nother :
Death, ere thou hall kill'd another.
Fair and learn'd, and good as (he.
Time {hall throw a dart at thee.

Tranflated into Galic.
AN fho na luighe fo Ik-ftghe j

Ha adh-bheann nan uille-bhuadh,
Mathair Phembroke, piuthar Philip :

Ans gach Daan bith' orra luadh.
A bhais man gearr thu fios a coi-mcas,

Beann a dreach, fa h' iuil, fa fiach,
Brididh do bhogh, gun fhave do ihaighid :
Bithi'— mar nach bith' tu riamh.

A SAILOR'S EPITAPH, in the Church-yard of Great Yarmouth, Norfolk.

THO' Boreas' blow and Neptune's waves

Have toft me to and fro.
By God's decree, you plainly Aii,

I'm harbour'd here below .
Where I muft at anchor lye

"With many of our fleet ;
But once again we muft let fail.

Our admiral Chrift to meet.

Tranflated into Galic.

LE Uddal-cuain, 's le fheide Gaoidh

'S lionmhor amhra thuair mi riamh ;
Gam luafga a nul agus a nal,

Gu trie gun fhois, gun Deoch, gun bhiadh*

Ach

ill

534 pennant's second tour in scotlanp*

Ach thanig mi gu calla taimh,

'S leg mi m' achdair ans un uir,
Far an caiuil mi mo phramh,

Gus arifd an tog na (uill.
Lc guth na troimp' as airde filaini

L>us gidh mi, 's na bheil am choir
Coinnich' ihin Ard-admhiral a Cliuain

Bhon faith fliin ibis, is duais, is 16nn.

SAPPHO'S ODE.

BLEST as the immortal gods is he.
The youth who fondly fits by thee, &c.

Tranflatcd into Galic.

!. 'ADHMHUR mar dhia neo bhafmhor 'ta
'N t'oglach gu caidreach a fliuis re d' fqa :
S^ chluiii, fa chith re faad na huin
Do bhriara droighcal, 's do fhrea gradh cuin.

2. Och ! 's turr a d' fhogair thu mo clilofs

'Sa dhuifg thu 'm croidh' gach biiairoas bochd :
*N tra dhearc mi ort, s' me goiiu le 't aadli
Bliuaii reachd am uchd, ghrad mheath mo chail :

3. Theogh 'm aigne arls, is fliruth gu dian
Tcafghradh air feadh gach baal am bhiann :
Ghrad chaoch mo (hull le ceodhan uain

*S tac aoidh mo chluas le bothar-thuaim.

4. Chucr fallas 'ilath mo bhuil gun lilth
"itii Kal ghris chuin tre m' fhuil gu diu.
Ghrad thug am plofg a bhcannaclid leom

Is ftiiiliomh mi llioa^h gun' diog am chomm.

EPITAPH on a LADY, in the PailOi-church of Glenorchay, in North Britain.

1. AN (ho na luigh ta fan Tunis
Bean bu duilich k-om bhi ann
Bt'ul a cheuil, is lamh a ghrinnip,
Ha iad r.iofht- (lie nan tamh.

2. Tuill' cha toir am bochd dhiilt heannachd :
An lom nochd cha chluthaich thu nis n\o'
Cha tiorniaich deur blio fliuil na h'ainnis:
Co tuill' O Lr.gg ! a bhur tlhuit trcoir ?

3. Chan fhaic (liin tuillc thu fachoinri :
Cha (uidh fliin tuille air d'> bhord :
D'lhitlabh uain 'ualrccas, fine is niodhan
Ha bron *s bVmhulad air tcachd oiru.

pennant's second tour m Scotland.

S35

In Engllfli.

1. LOW (he lies here in the duft, and here memory fills me with grief: filent is the
tongue of melody, and the hand of elegance is now at reft.

2. No more fliall the poor give thee his blefllnjj j nor fliall the naked be warmed
with the fleece of ihy ilock, 1 he tear flialt thou not wipe away from the eye of the
wretched. Where now, O Feeble, is thy wont d help !

3. No more, my fair, (liall wo meet thee in the Ibcinl hull ; no more (hall we fit at
thy hofpitable board. Gone for ever is the found of niirtli : the kind, the candid, the
meek is now no more. Who can exprel's our grief ? Flow ) e tears of woe !

A YOUNG lady's LAMENIATION' on theUEATlI of her LOVER.

Tranflated from tho C iic.

GLOOMY indeed is the nijjht and dark, and heavy alfo is my troubled foul :
around me all is filent and ftill ; but ileep has forfaken my eyes, and my bofom
•knowvih ni)t the balm of peace. I mourn lor the lofs of the dead the young, the
beauteous, the I. rave, alas ! lies low Lovely was thy form, () vouili ! lovely and fair
was thy open foul ! —Why did I know i' y worth ? — Oh ! why mull I now that worth
dc plore ?

Length of years feemed to be the lot of my love, yet few and fleeting were his days
of joy. Stroiig he flood as the tree of tiie vale, but uiitiiudy he foil into the filent
houlV. Tlie morning fun faw thee flourifli as the lovely role ; before thj noon tide
heat low thou droop'it as the withered plant.

What then availed thy bloom of youth, a:id what thy arm of flrength ? Ghaflly is
the face of Love dim and dark the loul-cxprefling eye — The mighty fell to arife no
more !

Whom now fliall 1 call my frigid ? or from whom can I hear the found of joy ? In
thee the friend has lalU-n - in tliy gr.ive my joy is laid — We lived, we grew together.
O why together itid wo not alfo f.ill !

Death, thou cruel ipoiKr I iiow oft haft thou caufed the tear to flow ! many are the
miferable thou hall made, and who can el'cape thy dart of woe ?

Kind late, come lay me low, and bring me to my houfe of reft. In yonder grave,
licneath the leafy plane, my love and I ihall dwell in peace. Sacred be the place of our
ropole.

O feck not to dillurb the aflies cf the dead.

APPENDIX.— Number IV.

Account of the Fiijling Woman of Rofsjhirc.

Dunrobin, Augiid 74, j^fij.
The InformatioR of Mr Rainy, MilTio'iary-Mir.irter, in Kincardine, anent Kathtiine M'LcoJ.

K/VniARlNE M'l-KOD, daughter to Donald M'Lood, fiirmer in Crolg, in the
parKhot Kincanline, UolVlhire, an unmarried woman, aged about thirty-five years, fix-
tecn years ai^o ccntraded a tever, a,; r which flie became blind. Her father carried her
to feveral phyficians and furgeons to cure her bhndnefs. Their prefcriptions proved of

14 uo

\'M

■'»■;; ■)

•e

53^

PHNNAKT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

no effoft. He carried her alfo to a lady Ikilled in phyfic, in the neighbourhood, who,
doubtful whether her blindnefs was occafioned by ihe weaknefs of her eye-lids, or a de.
feft in her eyes, found by the ufe of fome medicines that the blindnefs was occafioned
by a weaknefs in her eye-lids, which being ftrengthened, fhe recovered her fight in
fome inealuri', and difchargt J as ufual every kind of work about her father's farm :
but tied a garter tight round her forehead to keep up her eye-lids. In this condition fhe
continued for four or five years, enjoying a good Hate of health, and working as ufual.
She contradod another lingering fever, of which fhe never recovered perfedly.

Sometime after her fever her jaws fell, her eye-lids clofed, and (he lod her appetite.
Her parents declare, that, for the fpace of a year and throe-quarters they could not fay
that any meat or liquid went down her throat. Being interrogated on this point, they
owned they very frequently put fomething into her mouth: but.they concluded that
nothing went down her throat, becaufe (he had no evacuation ; and when they forced
open her jaws at one time, and kept them open for fome time by putting in a flick be-
tween her teeth, and pulled forward her tongue, and forced fomething down her throat,
fhe coughed and ftrained, as if in danger to be choaked. One thing, during the time
flic eat and drank nothing, is remarkable that her jaws were unlocked, and fhe recover-
cd herfpeech, and retained it for feveral days, without any apparent caufefor the fame;
fhe was quite fenfible, repealed feveral quefUons of the fhorter catechifms ; told them that
it was to no pur|)ofe to put any thing into her mouth, for that nothing went down her
throat : as alio that Ibmetimes fhe underftood them when they fpoke to her. By de-
grees her jaws thereafter fell, and (he loft her fpeech.

Sometime before I faw her fhe received fome fullenance, whey, water-gruel, &c. but
threw it up, at leaft for the moft part, imnudiately. "When they put the (lick be-
tween her feeth, mentioned above, two or three of her teeth were broken. It was at
this broach they put in any thing into her mouth. 1 caufed them to bring her out of
bed, and give tier fomething to drink. They gave her whey. Her neck was contract-
ed, her chin fixed on her breaft, nor could by any force l^e pulled back : (he put her
chin and mouth into the difli with the whey, and I perceived (he fucked it at the above-
mentioned breach as a child would fuck the breall, and immediately threw it v^p again,
as her parents had told me (he ufed to do, ai 1 (he endeavoured with her iMi i! to dry
her mouth and chin. Her forehead was ccyUtraded and wrinkled : her ciin.ks full,
red, and blooming. Her parents told me that (he (lept a great deal, and foundly, per-
fpired fometimes, and now and then emitted pretty large quantities of blood at her
mouth.

For about two years paft they have been wont to carry her to the door once every
day, and fhe would (lif^w figns of uneafinels when they negkded it at the ufual time.
La(l fiimmcr, after giving hiT to drink of the water of the well of Strathconiien, fhe
crawled to the door on her hands and feet without any help. She is at prviem in a very
languid way, and (li 1 throws up what (lie drinks.

APPENDIX.— Number V.

Parallel Roads in G/cn-Rcy.

ALL the defcription that can be given of the parallel roads, or terraces, is, that the
Glen of itfelfis extremely narrow, and the hills on each fide very high, and gontrally
not ro ky. In the face of thefe hills, both fides of the Olen, there are three mads at
fmall diftances from each other, and dircdHy cppofite on each fide. 'I'hel'e roads have

been

pennant's fiECONh TOTJa IN SCOTLAND.

537

been mcafurcd in the completed parts of them, and found to be 26 paces of a man fiVL*
feet ten inches high. The two highcft are pretty near each other, about 50 yards, and
the lowed double that dKlance from the nearcft to it. They arc carried along the fides
of the Glen with the utnioft regularity, nearly as exad; as if drawn with a line of rule
and compafs.

Where deep burns or gullies of water crofs thefe roads, they avoid both the defcent
and afcentin a very ciirious manner; fo that on thn fide where the roads enter, tholV
hollows, they n:ther afceiul along the {lope, and dcfcend the oppofite (itle until they
come to the level, without the tnivcUer being fcnfiblc of afccnt or defcent. There are
other fmaller glens falling iato this (Jlen-iioy. The parallel roads fuiround ail ih.fe
fmaller ones ; but where Glen- Roy ends in the open country, there are not the finallelt
veftiges of them to I e feen. 'I'hc length of thel'e roads in Glen Roy are about feven
miles. There are other two glens in that neighbourhood, where ihefe roads are equally
vifible, ralkd Glen Gluy, and Glen-Spean, the forniLr running north welt and the
latter Ibvith from Glen Roy. Both tl. :fe roacis arc much about the lame length as
Glen- Roy.

It is to ue nbfjrved that thefe roads are not caufeway, but levelled out of the earth.
There arc foiue finall rocks, though few, in the courle of thcfe roads. People have
examined in what manner they made this pafllige through the rocks, and find no vcf-
tige of road'! in the n ck ; but tliey begin on each fide, and keep the regular lin;^ as for-
merly. So far I am indebted to Mr. Trapaud, Governor of Fort Auguftus.

I cannot learn to what nation the inhabitants of the country attribute thefe roads : I
\v:'.s informed that they were inaccellible at the eaif end, op.^n at the weft, or that
nearefl to the fea, and that there were no traces of buildings, or Druidical remains, in
any part, that could lead us to fufuect that they were defigned for a'conomical or reli-
gious purpofes. The country people think they were defigned for the chace, and
that thefe terraces were made after the fpots were cleared in lines from wood, in order
to tempt the animals into the open paths after they were rouzed in order that they might
come within reach of the bowmen, who might conceal themfelves in the woods above
and below. Ridings for the fportfmen are llill common in all great forells in France
and other countries on the continent, either that they might purine the g une without
interruption of trees, or flioot at it in its pallage.

iilr. Gordon, p. i 14, of his Intinerary, mentions fuch terraces, to the number nf
feventeen or eighteen, raifed one above the other in the mod: regular maimer, for the
^pace nf a mile, on the lulc of a hi 1, in the county of Tweedale, near a village c.dled
Romana, and alfo near two fmall Roman camps. They arc from fifteen to twenty
feet broad, and appear at four or five miles dillance not unlike a great amphiti e8tre.
The fame gentlt-man alfo has obferved fimilar terraces near other camps ot the lain«;
nation, fj-om whence he fufpefts them to be the works of the Romans, and to have
been thro.vn up by their armies for itinerary encampments. Such may have been their
ufe in thofe places : but what could liave been the object of the contrivers of the ter-
races of Gl*>n-Roy, where it is more than probable thofe conquerors never came, ro-
mains a ni)(lery, except the conjec^.ure above given fliould prove facisfadory.

,1:',:'

vol.. III.

APPENDIX.

«8

PSKHAMT's second tour m 8C0VL.\MD.

APPENDIX.— NuMiiER VI. >

Of Slough Dcggs.

SIR William Lawfon, and Sir William Hiitton, Knights, two of his Majcfties Com*
niifliuncrs for tlie Middlt (hires of Great Britain. To John Pviufgrave the Provoft Mar-
fbail, and the reft of his Majefties garryfon, fonil falutation^^. Whereas, upon due
confiJeration of the iiicrcafe of itealths dayly growing both in .leeJ and reporte among
you on the borders. We formerly concluded an.! agreed, that, for reforming thereof,
watcht ftiould be fett, and flough doggs provyded and kept, according to the contents of
his Majellies direftioiisto us in that behalf prefcribed. And for that, according to our
faid agreement, Sir William Hutton, at his lall being in the country, did appoint how
the watches fliould be kept, when and where they fhould begin, and how they might
belt and tnuft fitly contini'L, And withall for the bettering his M;ijcftics fervyce, and
preventing further danger ihut might enfue by the outlaws, in refortingc to the houfes
of Thomas Routledgc, alias Baylihead, being neerc and next adjoyninge to the wayfts,
he hnnttrlfe beingc fled amongft them, (as it is reported) order and direftion was lyke-
wil'e, that fome of the garryfon fhould keepe and refyde in his the faid Thomas Rout-
ledge's houfes, and there to remaine till further diredions be given them, unlefle he the
faid Thomas Routledgc fhall come in and enter himfelfe anfwerablo to his Majellyes
lawesj as is convenient. Further, by virtue of our authority from his Maj-ily to us di-
rected, tovwhing the border fervyce. We command you that the faid watches be duely
fearched as was appointed, and prefentment to us, or th' one of us, be mad of every de-
fault, either in conllables for their ncgled in not fettinge yt fourth, or in any perfons
flyppinge ornegledinge their dutycs therein. And that you likewyfe fee that flough
doggs be provyded accordinge to our former diredions, and as this note to this war-
rant annexed particularly fetts down. Faile yee not hereof, .is you will anfwer the con-
trarye at your perrills. Given under our hands and feals this 29ih of November 1616.

A NOTE how the SLOUGH DOGGS was agreed upon to be provyded and kept at
the charge of the inhabitants, as foUoweth :

Imprimis, beyond £(k, by the inhabitants there to be kept above the foot

of Sarks ^ . - . .

Item by the inhabitants of fhe infyde of Efkc, to Richmond Clugh, to be

kept at the Moot . . . -

Item by the inhabitants of the parifli of Arthurct above Richmondclugh,

to be kept at the Bailyhead . . -

Item Bmvcadle parifh, befides the Baylye and Blackquarters, to be kept

at Kinkerhiil - - . . -

hem the parifli of Stapilton - - . -

Ittm the parifh of Irdington - - - -

Item the parifh of Lanercoft and Walton

Item - - - ,

Itfn\ • .

I Dogg,
I D.
1 D.

1 D.
I D.
I D.
1 D.
1 D.
1 D.

I'otal

It was appointed and commanded that the chiefe ofliccr?, bnyliffis, and conl ablcs,
within every circuit and cumpafl'e wherein the flough doggs arc appointed to to krpt,

13 fliuuld

li'

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

539

fhould take charge for tafkeing the inhabitants towards the charge thereof, and colleft
the famo, and toi provydiiv^e the Slough Doggs, and to inform the cornmiflioneis, if
any refufed to pay their contribution, whereby fuch as refufed (hould be committed to
tho gar>!c till thoy paid the fame.

N. B Bifliop Nicholfon has publirtied the orders of the watches, 6 Ed. VI. in his
Border Laws, p. 215, &c. but as I have met with nothi/.g concerning the Slouch
Doggs till the time of Janus the Firft, am inclined to think it was a new inftitution,
in that King's reign, when they were alfo appointed in the Scotch borders.

APPENDIX.— Number VII.

A Letter from Mr. George Malcolm, concerning Sheep-Farms^ 'isfc.
Communicated by Jon n Maxwell, Efq. of Broomholme.

THESE grounds are not in common as in England, but are all feparate properties,
and divided into extenfive farms, with diftincl marches, from three to four thoufand
acres. They are moltly paftured with flieep ; that is to fay, the farmer depends upon
his fheep for paying the rent and yielding him profit. The cows which he keeps, and
the corn which he fows, feldom do more than maintain his family. Farms of this large
extent become neceffary ; for, as they are not inclofed, the fheep could not be pallured
with ea!e and convenience within narrow marches. Though the country was in a com-
plete ftate of improvement, it is probable the hills will never be inclofed, as nature
feems to have intended them for breeding cattie to fupply the cultivated paltrures in the
low lands which fatten. So long as they are applied to that purpofe, and I think
they can never be made fit for any other, they cannot pay the expence of inclofing.
Every flock has a fliepherd to take care of them, whofe bufinefs it is to make them
eat the ground equally, and in bad weather to keep them on fuch parts of the farm,
where they are moft (heltered from the ftorms. He can do nothing without his dog,
which, you know, he learns to do wonderful things ; but it would be wrong to men-
tion th';m to ftrangers, as they would think we bordered on the marvellous. It is fuf-
ficient to inform them, that he can command all or any part of his flock, at the diftance
of more than a mile. As the kinds of flieep, and the methods of managing them, vary
fo much in difflrent parts of tlie country^ it will be difficult to give your friend any
clear idea of them. There is a gradual decline of foil from the eafl. to the weft coaft.
This faft is put beyond a doubt, from the fize of both flieep and black-cattle 'urning
fmaller and fmaller as you advance from the eaft to the weft. The large flieep of the
eaft border have often been brought here, but thoy did n t thrive, but turned fmaller;
and I have known our lh'>ep lent to them, which you would not have known for large-
ncfs in a yoar or two. This fliews tfiai the alteration of the fize is not owing to the
fancy of the farmer, but to a nal dill'erence of foil. There are difl^erenl kinds of loil
required for different kinds ot flieep, and at difierent ages. The ho:,?, which is the
liaiiie they go by before they a-> year old, fliould have dry pafturc, well mixed with
heaths, and nor much cxpofed to ftorms of fnow, which breeds them (irni :ind found.
The ewe, which is the female, fliould have muc gia's, and not vei '.: 'h land, on
account of the lambs which they bring forth in the Ipring, and the we.'., or, which i^:
the gelded male flieep, is titteft for the very high grounds, as being ftrongeft and moft

322 ' '.rdy.

540 PllNNANT S Sl-COND TOUR IN SCOTl.ANli.

liarily. '1 his accounts for mod iarn.iTs liiuinj^ 'i\orc larms than ono, as t)no K-ldom
contains all thofe different foils and fnuatiiiiis. '1 l.iVMgh'liviotJalc, tl»o produCt which
moll lit" the [anu rs it'll is weddcrs abovL- tliree yci' ■. <iLI, and about a fcvonth or eighth
par: of tho oUitlt of iluir cwo ilock, which arc coimnorily about fixycar.3 (>ld. rhey
loll tho wedders in June, and tho ewes about Micluuliuas. 'liioY arc nioitly bought
by the En';lirii for ft-cding. It is inipolliblo to give yo»; an account of |)ricc?, as iluy
vary alinolt cv^ry (oafon. Witliin tliclc twelve yv':u;., 1 have known the livirrdtlo
weddcrs fell from ten to fifteen ihillinps, and ilu "\\es from fix to ten fliillings, Wo
Ihcar or clip Un: wool in tlie months of June and .'idy. 'I'lio price ol' the wool varii.-^
as nuicii as the price of the (luep, from th' n- lhill;ne;s and iixpence to Tin fliillin):;; unl
fixpcncc per ilcnc Englidi, fiKtec-n pounds lo the il. no. From five to btvvveen Ha and
feven fleeces ;>,o to tho Hone, The niaiket for wo >1 is fomci.me? tt Edi:ibui-j;h. - nd
I'vMuetiinos in r.n;.ja;id. In fcne parts of the eaii: t ! Tivioidal'.' tiiev do noi falve their
lli-.n, ! 'U ihcv do it in moll: places. It is thoir.';!it tar warms the meep, and uellroys
a kiikl < i veri.iia cUcd a cade, which infells them miKh. The ne. thod of falvini; if
very dillVrer.t, with reo-.ird to the quantity of butter mixed with the Mr. ;Mii alf with
rei^aid to tile qi'Mitity o;' both l.iid on the llicep. The mixture is from tweity four
pounds Eni;lifli to alu ve three Hones oi bi;;-; r 'o fixteen quarts of tar ; .uul wii'i this
quantity thev uiii falve from f ."y to '.'He lean d red and twenty (lieep. I'he greater
propotiunof butter the betar u,e wod! b, not in poiot of Hnends, but it u'allies
wliiier, and confequeTitiy takes a L :;e»* dv •• The caMer the ground is, the more falve
is laid on. It cofts from two-p. nee haUp'-iiiiy to three-pence halfpenny each Iheep. In
Tiviotdale, tlie; have gut niue'i into the ;i:\!dia' of gi'^'in;^ their fheep hay in tliefnows
of winter, whicli is oi much f'.rvice tr? li; n, I eannot pretend to give you my opi-
nion pofitively wit!': regard ' i tlie vei.t:; paid, aiui how many flieep are kept Uy the
acre : they vary witli the foil oi the ground, and often according to the opiuion the
(iitTerent landlords ertertain of the va'uc of their ellates. More grounds keep below
a flieep :o the aeie than ahov(. it ; and the rent Hands from two (hillings to three fliiU
lings aua !ixj)ence for each iheep. The rents of molt farms have :\dvanced wJhin
thtle twelve i r fourteen years, from a third to double ; which great advance has mjide
Highland f;.;i;!;ng vety uncertain, as no iniprovemcnts which meliorate the farms can
be made ; but they entiiely depend upon the rife and fall of the markets, befidcs sun-
ning a grea«^ rifque from bad fealbns. In Efkdale, where we live, we fell no weddcrs,
becaufe we cannot -Tord to breed wedder hog-, on aecoimt of a difeafe, which kills
great numbers of that nge in our grounds. Our produd is lambs and ewes at the age
already mentioned. A\ ithin theie twelve years, we br.ve /'old our lambs from two ftiiU
ling:; to lour (lii !ing^ and iixpence, and our ewes from five ihillings and fixpence to
nine fluliing'. Our ni-nkc's ire the fame as in Tiviotdale; our wool fells lower.
Many ot u.'= have a practice of milking our eves ; though it is going fall into difufe,
becaufe it is generally ;!i"Ui;ht to be liurtiu!. h renders the two lel^^ (it to bear the
itorms in v\iriter; it makes her liave lefs woo!; and the will fell at a mucii higher
price at Michaelmas, it not milked, being fatter. The great temptation to milk ewes
is to provide butter for falving, which ol late years has been very vlear. As perhaps
Mr. !'. ntay have a rurioiity to fee a calculation of how iiuich is made by milking, 1
(liall give you aii acrount ol what I made this year out of three hundred and ei;'!)!/
f ACS at Burnfoot ; for I milk at no other ol my farms.

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

S^^

I made y^ (tones Englifli oi cheefe in fix weeks at 4s. 4d. per ftone
12 Stones of butter, at 5s. Cii. per Hone Englifh

Wages of foui- women
Wages of ewe-lierd

~ll

N. B. Tlio wlicy made from the milk is more than equal to the maintenance of the
above five fervavits.
This comes to about 9]d. each (liecp.

To the north-weft of us, in Tweddale, Clydefdale, the head of Annandale, and in
Calloway, tiie farmers fell for their prndud wedder hogs, and fome of them lambs as
wo do. For the mofl part the Knglilh buy them to lay on their commons. They are
a ihort coarfe-woolled (heep, and eiteemed very hardy. In thele parts they are free of
that dircale which kills the young (hecp in our country, and which is the reafon of their
keeping all their male lambs on moft of the farms. Thefe hogs have fold, within thefe
twelve years, from five fliillings to eight fhillings and fixpcnce. The difeafes to which
fheep are liable are many. I Ihall only mention three of them, which are moft mor-
tal. That which we cfteem the v orft is called the Rot. They contract it by paftur-
inp- in wet marlhy ground, when it happens tn be a rainy feal'on in the months of Au-
guft and September. The only rcniedy is ('raining. A bad feafon will even bring on
a rot in dry grounds, where there is much grafs. !f they futfer much hunger, either
from an overftock in fummer, or from the fnows in winter, it will occafion this difeafe.
We call another difeafe the Sicknefs ; it appears to be a kind of cholir, as it fwells them
much in the body ; it mortly attacks young (heep from before Martinmas until the
fpr.ng. We have no remedy for it. The third difeafe is called the Louping-ill which
rages moftly from the ift of April to the ift of June. It deprives them of the ufe of
their limbs. We likewife know no remedy for it.

P. S. In reading over my letter, I think it right to explain that part of it, where I
fay, that there are farms of four thoufand acres, ! do not mean that thefe large farms
are all paftured by one flock of flieep, for one flock has feldom above feven or eight
hundred acres to go upon.

APPENDIX.-NuMBER VIII.

Lift of Barons fumrioned to the Siege of Caerlavroc.

•i"i

i^ip^j

KLLIS de .'^U^iJGNl.

■■M -it; St. Ai.iand.
iS>iian fitz Alan,
iltigh de Bardc ,i.
John di Beauchamp.
John de Bar.

John de la Brefte.
Walter de Bcauchamp,
John Botetorte.
Anth. Beke, Bp. of Durham
Maurice de Barkley.
Alciw de BailioU.

Barth.

Ifi

$4^

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

ai i

Barth. Badlefmeri.
Barkley.
Bafft't.
John dc C layering.
Robt. de Cliffort.
Hugh de Courtenay.

Couches.
Win. dc Canlelo.

Cromwelle.
John de Cretinpnes.
Hugh le Difpenier.
Patric de Dunbar.
Edm. Daincourt.
John Daincourt.
Earl oi Lincoln.
Hereford.
Warwick.
Bretaigne.
Oxford,
de Laonis.
Glouccfter.
John dc Engaine.
John Ic Ellrang.
Simo FrcfiU.
Thomas de Furnival.
Wm. de Ferrers.
Adam de la Ford.
Henry de Graye.
Wni. de Grantfon.
John de Graye.
Gerald de Grondonvile,
Henry de Graham.
Ralf de Gorges.
Euftace de Hache.
John de Haftings.
Simo de Haiiings.
Robt. Haunfcrt.

de Hontercomb,
Nich. de Karrn.
Philip de Kime.
The. de Lankaflcr,
Wni. de Latimer.
Wm. de Layburn.
Wm. le Marfhal!.
Waltcrus Money.
John de Moun.

Roger de Mortaign.
John de la Mare.
Hugh de Mortimer,
Simo de Montagu.
Roger de Mortimer.
Ralf de Monthermer.
Bertrand Mountboucher.
Robert de Montcalto.
Thomas de Multon.
Johes. de Odefton.
Henry dc Pery.
Rob. fitz Payne.
Hugh Poinz.
Johes. Paigneli.
Rob. fil. Roger!.
Wm. de Res.
John de Rivers.
Wm. de Ridre.
Tho. de Richmond.
Richard de Rokcle.
Nich. dc Sograve.

Segrave.
John de Segrave.

Robt. de Scales.

Rich. Sieuart.

John de St. John.

St. John.

de Taterfall.

Rob. de Tony.

Henry le Tieis.

John fitz Marmad. Thweng.
de Vavafours.

Aimar de Valence.

Rob. fil. Walteri.

John de Warron.

Rich. fil. Wmi.

/idam de Welles.

Rob. de la Ward.

Rob. de Willeby.

Alvin de la Zouch,

Edvardus Rex.

Ed. fil Regis.

Tho. fil. Regis.

Baro dc Wij^neton.
de Kiikbridc.

APPENDIX.

PINNANT's 8SC0NO TOUR IN 8C0TLAM1K

145

APPENDIX— NifMBRR IX.
Of the Gold Mines of Scotland.
From a MS. if Col. Dorthw ck and otlieri.

MR. CORNFXIUS DF.VOSSEC, a lapidary in London, -.vns the firft who difcovered ■
gold in Scoiland. In the villies of Wanlockliead (near Leadhills) Abraham Grev, a
Dutchman, who lived fo 'c time in London, got a cood quantity of natural gold. He
paiil hi;; workmen weekly, and Ivnt to diverfe men before hand, as it is written in that
parchment book, laying, with this natural gold, gotten in Greatheard's time (for fo
he was called, becaufe of his great long beard, which he could have bound his middle)
was made a very fair deep bafon, without any addition of any other gold, at Edinburgh,
in the Canongate ftnet. It was made by a Scotfinan, and contained by efiimation,
within the brims thereof, an EngJifh gallon of liquor ; the lame bafon was of clean
neat natural gold. It was then filled up to the brim with coined pieces of gold, called
unicorns (which appear to have been only coined in James III. and James IV.'s time.
For this vide Anderf. Diplom. et Numifmata Scotiae) which bafon and pieces both
were prefentcd to the French king by the regent Earl of Morton, who fignified upon
his honour to the king, faying, " My lord, behold this bafon and all that therein is ; -
it is natural gold got vsithin this kingdom of Scotland by a Dutchman, named Abra-
ham Grey." Abraham was Handing by and affirmed it upon a folemn oath, but he
faid unto the faid king, that he thought it dul engender and increafe within the earth,
and that heobferved it fo to do by the influence of the heavens j then Earl Morton flood
up, faying, " I alfo believe that it engenders within the earth, but only of thefe two
elements, viz. water and earth ; and that it wa8 made perfeft malleable gold from the
beginning by God ; and am certain that this cup, and all the pieces therein are of na-
tural Scots gold, without any other compound or addition."

Mr. Atkinfon and Mr. George Bowes, both Lnglifhmen, pr'^cured a commiffion
into Scotland unto the gold mines, and I h. , |;ened on a book of his m.:Ving in England ;
I compared the fame (having carried it with me into Scotland,) with tii< : rt of the
country ; and the countrymen at Wanlockhead faid it wis fo, and moft c i , that Mr.
Bowes difcovered a fmall vein of gold upon Wanlockhead. He fwore all his work-
men to keep it fecret from the King of Scotland and his council : and fo he promifed,
before his departure from England to the Queen Elizabeth, and by her letters to the
coimcil of Scotland, got a new warrant j fo was fufJered to dig and delve as he would,
after another faihion than Mr. Bulmer or his iien did. He digged fundry (hafts,
found oftimcs good feeling gold, and much fmall gold, of which he gave ten or twelve
ounces, to make friends in England and Scotland. He had both Englifh and Scots
workmen, and paid them with the fame gold. Mr. Bulmer's men found little or
none. And when he and his men had filled their purfes, then he caufed the ftiaft to
to be filled up again, fwearing his men to fecrecy, and keep it ilof.' from the King
of Scotland and his council. This was confeffed by fome of Mjowes's chief fer-
vants firce his death. On his return to England, he (hewed the Queen a 1 ng purfe
full of the gold found in the vein he had difcovered, and it was valued to be worth
fevcnfcore pounds. He told her Majefly he had made it very fure, and hid it up til next
going there. She liked v^ry well thereof, and pronnfing him a triple reward, and
to prepare himfclf next (pring to go there at her Majefty's charge alone, to feek for

a greater

•.I

1)'

544

VENNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

a proator vein; lie went Iionie nit to his nwu country in tlie north ol r.np;lanJ, where
he ilwcit ; but unfortunately riding to Ive the copper worlis and mines in Cumburlund,
at Kelwi'll, as he was going down into tlie deep, ihc ladder broke, the earth fell in, and
he was bruiled to death.

'Ihen Mr. Atkinlon fuccoeded Mr. Bowes, ;ind found gold which was prcfented to
King James. Cornelius Devoflee, painter to ^uem F.ii/caht tli, excellent in the trial ol
minerals and mineral ftones, and acquainted wi'li Ni>".li«>l;is Ililliaril*, golillmiiii and
miniaturejiainter to her Majelly, engaged ' i ul' i. re wiih him in karch of gold
in Scotiaiui. Doth nude an alhgnment lo iVrtiiu van Urownchurll lo operate for
them. '1 hey being informed by traviiler'' c good evperience, liow tliiit as liuul and
g)-avel have tlitir fevcral beds in Eiiglaiu!, even lo are there beds of gold ami lilver in
foreign countries they had travelled ; rocks and craigs having veins and beds of iron,
copper, and tin mintl, even 1) gold anil dlvir Iia\e tluir veins amongit rocks and in
the ground, fo they hoped to tind out a bed or vein of gold in Si' 'land. In conle-
qucnco lirownchurll fearchcd, and found goKl in lundry pi c t,, i,i..t w.is for.-'d to leave
all in the mint-houfe by command of the King, being a minor; :uul Karl Morton, re-
gent, relufed Brownchurif the 'iberty of fearch, without payii>;., full value for all fuch
natural gold as fhuuld be goMen by him in Scotland ; ami, thougli a liiitor lour months,
never obtained it, but becam • '^ne of his Majelly 's Iworn lervaiits in Scotland, to draw
linall and great pictures to t.i- King. Mr. Buluur, in ^ueen Elizabeth's time, iearched
and f'oun.l g<'ld, &c. in tliell places in Scotland ; viz. i. Upon Mannock moor in Nid-
dcfdale. 2. Weulock wa^T, on Robert moor, in Niildeiilale. 3. I'Viir moor, or Glen-
gonnar water iit Clydefdale. 4. Short cleugh water in Crawford moor. 5. Long-
Clench braes, or Long-Clcuch head. lie prcfented to the C^ueen a gold porringer,
upon which were engraven the follo\Aing lines :

I il.ite not Ri'v.'. nor yet pre ftnf,
I'lit tendiT rif of lli.it'i iliv own ;
My mind ami lioart (hall lllll invent
To fctk out triafuns )et unltnown.

But, having lofl his living by his own and others' prodigality, he recalled himfelf, and
penned a book of all his ads, wovks, ani! devices, named Buhner's Skill, and another
great book on filver-mines, minerals, mineral Hones, tin-mincp, coal-n.iiies, and falt-
works, &c. It was propofed in council fur him lo procure twenty-four gcniloinen of
land, rent io,oool. value, or 5C0I. yearly, who wm' u> dilburl'e juol, Iterling each
man, in money or vi£tuals, for maintenance of gold-mines in Scotland ; for which each
was to be knighted, and called the Knight ohhe Golden Mines, or the Golden Knight ;
but it did not take place, for the Earl of »S.i .fbury trolfed hi- views, only one knight
was made. Sir John Claypool, with Sir Bewcs Bulnur. Mr. Bulmcr wriieth of the va-
riety of Hones and metals ft)und by him in Scotland ; i. vi/ natural gold great and fmall,
«. natural filver, 3. copper-Hone, 4. had-or . 5. iron-Hun.-, 6. marble, 7. Hone-coal,
8. beds of alaballer, 9. amethyH, 10. pearls.

McmorandUin of the tnintr.ds found in Scotland by Colonel Borthwick. 1. A
filver mine on the r. Tth fide of the hill S. Jordan in the pirifh I Eovcran. 2. Gold
found about Dunidur beyond /Aberdeen 3. Silver calle' joldcn lank, at Men/.ics, in
the parifh of Koveran 4 Silvtr, at the bark of a pa^s vhc • there is a well that
feivcs Difljiair's houfhold. parifli of Eintra, li^lit miles livHih l^ Aberdeen. 5. G'ld

Mr. \Va!poic'( Antc'iotrs of Paiutingi, i 14K.

PKNNANT S 8J-C0ND TOTTR IN 8C0TL.\ND.

545

in the boggs of New Lrflie, at T mgarran, two niilcs from Dunidiir. fi. Iron at the
well of Sipa, weft fiilc of Woman hi/l, near Gilkomdoiu; miln, quarter of a tnilc fr(mi
AbtTilcrn. 7. Golil, very 1 ich, in a town called Ovcrhiil, paiifli Bccholvie, belongs
to L, Glamcs, fourteen fathoms l>iiow ilie kiln. 8. l.raJ, at tlie hiadof Louf^hlieburn,
north hdcMl Selkirk, c. Cloppir, in a place calknl KIplion, in a liili befide Allin laird
of Hilltown's lands. 10. Silver, in tin- hill of Skrill, Galloway. 1 i. Silver, in Win-
dyncil, Twctilale. 12. Gold, in (ilencloiight, near Kirkhill. 1 ]. Copper, in Lotklaw,
Fife. 14. SilviT, in the? hill fontli lide Loclicnhill. 15. Lead, in L. Drotherftone's
land. 16. Several metals near Kirkcudbright. 17. Copper, north fide Uorthwickhill,
Hawick, and liranxome. 18. Silver, in Kylefmoor, Soni, and Machlin, Ayrfliire.
19. Several ores in Orkney.

APPENDIX.—NuMui R X.

^ Dilfcrtat'wn on the Government of the People in the Wcjlcrn IJIcs,
Vriiten NovciiiIki 17, 1774, by (lie Urv. Mr. Donald MAC(Ji»snN, of Kilmuir, in the Iflc of Skie.

THE diflance of thefe iflcs from the centre of the ftate, fecurcd as they were from tli >
awe of fiiprcme power, by liip,h mountains, extenfivc moors, and impetuous feas, while
their fovereirns wore employed in quelling more dangerous infurrcdions at home, or
in ropclliiig the frequent incuvfions of their fouthern neighbours, left them in a kind of
independency on the crown of Scotland, efpccially while for fome centuries they conti-
nued to be governed by Norwegian viceroys, who coming fiom a wild and barbarous
country, ruimot be expetted Jo have brought order or civilization along with them ;
nor was the matter nnith mended when Somerlade, the famous thane of Argyle, upon
bt'ii\g ma-lied to a daughter of Olave, depute King of Man, got a footing in the illcs,
all of whiL.'i to the north of the Mull of Kintyre, together with Kintyre itielf, he pof-
fefTeii by liimfelf or his defcendants, or thofe having right from them, until about the
beginning of the fifteenth century. All this while whatever reformation was made in
the heart of the kingdom on the manners and prejudices of barbarous times, could have
made but a very (low pmurefs in the iflcs; though, as iflands, they muft be fuppof- J
to h ivc yieliled to the arts of peace and good order earlier than their njighbours upon
the . ntinent. Iflands, on account of the goodnefs of the foil, and the additional fub-
lirtti ce they draw trom the foa, are gent fally clofer inhabited ; crimes could not then
lie lo h'lig concealed among them as in dillant unhofpitable glens and mountains : they
are alio more frt quented by ftrangers ; and therefore by a fort of collifion the men
would polifli one another into good manners. They had a fiierifF of the iflcs mider the
Norwegian dynally ; but when the lands were parcelled out afterwards by the lords of
the ilks, the defcendants of Somerlade, among barons of t'iffcrcnt ranks and fizes,
each of thefe barons, afliiled by the chief men of the c mninnity, held his court on the
top of a hill called Cnock and Eric, i. c. the hill of ple.it, v.iiere the difputes they had
among themfelves were determined, where the encroachmeiu:^. of their neighbours were
conlidercd, and the manner of repelling force by force, or tiie neceffary alliances they
were to enter into, refolved on. In this period, when agriculture, trade, and manu-
faOures were at a very low pitch, the laws were icv^ and general : their little contrads
■were .. il'.enticated by being tranladed in the prefence of witnolles ; the marches of the
tliffereiu barons were fixed before a crowd by two or more fagacious men, and two or
more young lads were fcourged with thongs of leather, that they might the better re-

voi,. III. 4 A member

' w

■Ml

nilt I

-J ]

S*6

PUNNANT's 8KCOND TOUR IN tCOYLAND.

ill

inemhor tlic trnnraAlon. The lad who was thus ufod is now an old man, and a pel''
fioner to the family of Macdonald. Nor were the people in their purchafes fo dith.
dent of one another, as to infill upon a cautioner, tnai the bead or lubjed oxpol'ed
to open fale was fairly come by, or would not be reclaimed by another, which was once
a common nratftice over the kingdom, called in plain Gaiilio, Ra-difncah. The juiial
laws were more numerous, fcvcre, and particular ; for when rcdraiiits are put upon
natural liberty, and the culloms to which men were habituated in a (late of barb.uity
were to be reduced or aboliflied, men mud have very alarming examples painted before
their eyes. The laws of the lirll legillators in all countries are very fevere, and are
fuftened and moderated according to the progrefs of civilization. The legillator of the
Jews, though a very meek man, punifhes fevral crimes with the molt cruel kinds of
death, ftonmg and burning. Of Draco's la^vs, one of the firrt Athenian legiflators, it
is faid that they were written with blood ; and it is well known that the laws of the
twelve tables were very fevtre. Triiitors were put to death in the illes, being, according
to a cuflom that prevailed among the Norwegians, firft gelded and both their eyes
pulled out. Incelluous perfons were buried in marflies alive, and bankrupts, without
entering into a confideration of the nature of their misfortunes, were (hipped of their
all, clad in a party-coloured clouted garment, with ftockings of different fetf, and had
their hips dafhed againft a Hone in preiencc of the people by four men, each taking hold
of an arm or a thigh. This punilhmcnt they called Ton cruai^h ; and cowardice, when
not capitally punifhed, was accompanied with perpetual infamy. The prifons were
dark vaults, without beds, or the fmallcfl crevice to introduce light, where no friend
was permitted to comfort the criminal, who, after a long fad, was often killed with a
furfeit. This was the cafe of Heitchcn, the fon of Archibald Clerith, a traitor againft
the family of Macdonald, who died in the vault of Duntulm, of a furfeit of fait beef,
being refufed any kind of drink. The fcverity of juftice laid hold but on a few ; for
the proteOion of^the tribe or clan was generally reforted to, who did all in their power
to fave their own man from dillrefs, or to purfue with vengeance the perfon who had
offended any of their number. It often happened in this cafe, that among powerful
tribes the voice of the judge was too weak to be heard ; then religion Hepped in as a
neceflary fupplement to his power. Sanduarics, called girths, were confecrated in
every diflrift, to vhich the criminal fled ; where the fupiirllitioii uf the times, counte-
nanced by the political inrtitutions, fecured him from every aft of violence, until he
was brought to a judicial trial. To this day we fay of a man who iiies to a place of fe-
cunty, fjHg c an girt er ; and whatever party violated the fanduary, which very feldom
happened, brought the terrible vengeance of the church upon their back. Such a bridle
as tills became abfohitely neceflary to reftrain the anger and impctuofity of a lawlefs
tribe when provoked. Again, when the criminal got in among his own people, tln-y
did all in their power to jullify his condud and fave his perfon. In this cafe the refent-
ment turned on the clan, and any one of them who fell into the hands of the ofliended
was fure to fuflier dillrefs, or to be kept in durance, until the criminal was delivered
over tu jullice, which practice was at lall found expeilient to be turned into a law in the
kingdom, to prevent the clans from coming buckled in all their armour to the field, to
determine their own quarrels.

In procefs of lime they learned from their neighbours, as well as from their own ex-
perience, that to perpetuate ftrife and diforder among tribes who were almoft in full
pofllfiiun of thiir natural liberty, excepting when the local cuflom flood in their way,
was dangerous tu the public, and ruinous to themfelves. To Hop the progrefs of re-
fentinenr, they cancelled the injury by fatisfaftion with their cattle, by a mutual agree-
ment

MKWAKT's 81C0WD TOOR IM OCOTI.AND.

547

mcnt betwixt the parties, which therefore was called a compofition, to be divided be<
twixt the injured party and his clan. But as the cumpofitiun was not always eafily ac«
cepted, the principals of the diftcrent tribes fixed the value of it for every injury, and
cflimated the life of a man according to his rank : here a people void of refinement
made little diftinftion betwixt voluntary and involuntary trefpafles, for fear that impu-
nity in any cafe Hiould give a fcope to wicked perfons to abufc the indulgence of cuf-
torn or law. Tiie prcatnefs of the compofition in this cafe brought not only honour
along with it, but greater fecurity in a rude and barbarous neighbourhood. This ran-
fom was called Eric. The clan was then obliged to give up the defender, or become
liable for the penalty proportioned to the injury committed. Thus the clans became
mutual pledges for the good behaviour of the individuals who compofed them. When
fpecie found its way in among them, a price was put upon the cattle, and by the necef-
fary decreafe in the value of money, which they were not aware of, the eric came at
length to be very trifling ; but by this time the laws of the kingdom had made near
approaches to them, which were far from being welcome, to men clofely attached to
their own cudoms and connections, being deaf to the voice of parties, and to the diflinc<
tions of clans and individuals. •• The law hath come tl..- length of Rofsfhirc," faith
one neighbour by way of news to another. " O ho !" r^-plies he, " if God doth not
ftop it, you will foon have it nearer home." Much after this manner hath the progrefe
of civilization been carried on in all the countries of Europe; for fimilar caufes pro-
duce fimilar ellefls.

All the time preceding the beginning of the fifteenth century, and fomewhat later,
the government of the iHes and of the neighbouring continent was of the military kind.
The people were made up of different clans, each of which was under the diredtion of
a chief or leader of their own, and as their fecurity and honour confided in the number
and ftrength of the clan, no political engine was neglefted that coulJ be thought of to
incrcafe their numbers, or inflame their courage. The children of the principal people
were given out to nurfes : the fofler-brothers, or coalts, as they called thcrn, with their
children and connexions for many generations, were firmly attached to their will and
intereft. This fort of relation was carefully traced out, and the memory of it pref'^rvcd,
being efleemed a (Ironger bond of friendfhip than blood or alliance. It was to •' - e^fe
their numbers that bailardy was under no fort of diflionour : befides that the (..:.;*■ ;
got out of wedlock, to remove the uncertainty of their birth, exprefTed more love, ^nl
underwent more hazards on account of the clan, than the lawful children, '\ -.vnit.
they generally acquired a higher degree of ftrength both of mind and body, ii -J thr,,e-
fore were fometimes called to the fucceflion by a heroical tribe, in prefeu : :< ot ... . ■
who by the prefent laws (hould enjoy it. Such a breach in the lineage of u '>i . •, >■.
difavowed, as being a dilhonourable blot by the prefent race, though v le. i i
branches are apt to charge it upon one another, when debating upon the ideal ch'ef-
tainary of a clan. It was however reckoned no difcredit in the days of military pro^ffs.
Ai iinclech, King of Sichem, was begot by Gideon, on a concubine, and preferred :o the
fevenly children he had by his married wives. William the Conqueror was not afliamed
to call himfelf the Bafiard of Normandy ; as little was Ulyfl'es to acknowledge that he
was the fon of a concubine. The fafety of the community is the fupreme law, to which
every political confideration muft occafionally yield.

It would be allonifhing to hear that theft and plundering, inflead of being infamous,
were reckoned the molt wholefome exercile of youth, when they went without the
limits of their own community, and were not taken in the fac\, if it were not. coinmouly
known to have been the cale every where. From this fource the chieftains derived

4 A 2 rewards

548

pennant's second Toua m Scotland;

rewards for their numerous followers, and dowries fomctirnes for their Jaugliters. It
is known that one of them engaged in a contraft of marnaqe to give his fon-in-Iaw the
purchafe of three Michaehnas moons, at a feafon of the year when the nights were long,
and the cattle (Irong enougli to bear hard driving. This tranfadioii happened on the
main land, where dark woods, extenfive waltes, high forked mountains, nnd a coall
indented with long windii)g branches of the Tea, favoured tiie trade. 'Ihcie 'vcre (trong
holds, little frequented by Grangers, where the ancient i)radices and prejudices might
be preferred to the lad periods of time, without fome fuch violent ihock as that of the
year 1 74 «;. The iflanders yielded much earlier to the arts of peace and civility, for the
Dean in the year 1549 niLniions only fome petty piraciis from a lew of the hnaller
iilands which were divided from a well-poopled neighbourhood.

In the military days, the chieftain drew littK- or no rent from his people : lie had
fome of the bell farms in his own hands, to which there v/as a caiual accellion by for-
feitures J he had his proportion of the fnies laid upon the trcipalfers of the law ; he had
the herezicld horfe when any of his farmers dieil ; he had a bciiovolenceor vuUnuary
contiibutions lent him, according to the power and good intentions of every man ; he
and his cofliir, or retinue, could lodge upon them when he pleafed ; and they weri?
obliged to fupport him and his baron-like train, when he was employed in ditpenliug
juilice among them. This allowance was called a Cuttin.;- for the Court, or Gean-ii^h
Moid. When rents began to be levied, v.hich were at firlt but a moderate part of the
produce of each farm, tlie former revenues gave way gradu.dly, though fome branches
of them were preferved till within the memory of men now iivi:ig. Is'or was it nectlVai y
to ufe diltrefs for levying theie accudomed taxes or I'erviiudes ; an attachment to the
chief was the ^wW principle of the pcopk-'.s education ; a defcCl on that head wns judged
a renunciation of all virtue ; their tiioughts and words were nuich employe 1 ubvu.:
him ; it was the ufual acclamation on a furprile from any unexpected mihfortune,
" God be with the chief ! May the chief be upp^-rmoft !" and fwearing by his hand was
a common lorm of ailevcration ; on .'very fuch occafion giving him his proper 'iile.
Further, on the fide of the chienain, no art of aitabilify, generofity, or iViendlhip, which
could infpire love and ifleeni, was k'it untried to iecure a full and uiliing oi)jdtence,
which (her'igthen.v! the in preliions of education, while they were not y^t a'uleil by tii»
ci;itf, at tile iuttigation of luxury, auil the ambition of cutting an unmeaning hgure iii
the Low Covmtry, wl.-re nut'.ibers were more refpi-Cted, and his ufefulnels could wxy
well be fpareJ.

All this while the people preferved a good deal of their liberty and independence }
the diipenfation oi judi'.c, iuch as it was, kept them however in order within the limirj
of the. r own count/y : but there was a law of ano'Ju r kind planted in the human breait
by the friendly hand of our Maker, which bridled their Viatural iuipetuufJiy much more;
that was a quick f-nle of honour and liianie, which was nouridied bv lluir education,
being all bred to the ufe of arms, to hunthig, to the exertion of their Itreng'h in I'everal
umulcr ntv*-, ganus, and ieats of a^-fivity. The bard celebrated the praiies of iiiin who
dilhnguidicd himftif on any of fhefe occafions, aijd dealt out his fatirc but with a very
Ipariiig hand, for fear of roufmg up the feiocity of men, who were in ufe to judge in
tlicir own caufe, when they appealed to the fword, and either retrieved their honour or
died ; valour was t!ie virtue moll in repute; accordin-^lo their prognls in it were they
dilliii^uifhed by their cfiieiiain and frii ikLs. J'.very one oi the luperior clans tluiueiu
I'.imfclt a gentleman, a"? deriving his pedigree from an honourable llock, and propoleU
t!) do notlnng ur.worrhy of his dekenl or connections; and the iiUerior clans, tiie
Ijoddacks, au tluy called them, tread at un humble dillunce in the lU ps of their patrons,

whole

VeNNANT 3 SrCOKD TOUR IN SCOTI,AKD. 549

wlioft' cfleem ami applaufe they courted with pafllonatc keenn.efs. The love, afFeftion,.
and efleem of the community all aimed to procure hy a difinterelled practice of the fo-
cial duties, truth, genorofity, friendlhip, hofpitality, gratitude, decency of manners, for
which there are no rewards decreed in any country, but were amply paid among the
Ilighianders by that lioi\our and refpcct of which they had a very delicate talto. Ava-
rice, debauchery, churiiflinefs, deceit, ingratitude, which can fcarccly be puniHied by
the magillratc, were banifhed by the dreadful fear of fhame. 'i'hefe tv.o provifions,
which kind nature iiath made for directing the conducl of man, were fo incorporated
with the hearts and manners of the people, that the influence of them came down to
our days, and continued a good fupplement to the want of law, and to the lame execu-
tion of what law they had. Men of lively open tempers are generally fmccre, faithful,
an(' -eligious obfcrvers of their words. Men uled to termiiiate their dil'put.s by the
f\v... 1 will deleft fraud and duplicity as the true enfigns of cowardice. Yet it mull be
ownul, iliat their virtues were too much confined to their ow n community, whofe friend-
ihips and enmities every individual efpoufed, and were therefore more animated by the
fpirit of faction than by their regard to reafon and common juRice, which led them
often in a wrong way. Of all virtues their hofpitality was the moll extenfive ; every
door and every heart was open to the (tranger and to the fugitive ; to thefe they were
part'cularly humane and generou;-;, vied with one another who would ufe them belt, and
loot.. J on the perloii who fought their proieftion as a facrod depofttiim, which on no
conlideration they were to give up. Men of narrow principles are dilpofed to attribut*:
tiie uncommon hofpitality of the Highlanders not fo much to generofity as to felf-love,
the :,l)l'ohiie want of inns makin^^ it ncceflTary to receive the ftranger, in hopes of being
repaid in ilnir own periovis, or in that of their friends. Hofpitality was founded ou
iniui'.inorial cnilom, Iv.for ■ th.e tlnMights ol men wore cortraded by the ufe of weights
and ineal'iires, and rjckoiicd io lar ;i lacred obligation as to thiuk themlelves bounvl to
tntenain th.' man v\I;o frou" a principle of ill-wiil and refentment, forned * upon ihem
W'ith a numerous reiu^us.', whicii went under the name of the Ovtious Vitit.ir, Cuini'nh
Dhiiivir^h. Of this tiiere have been inifances within a century back; wiiich kind of
hofjiitahiy couKl fcaree In- hi!);).!!cvl feltintereited.

'io return IVoin this digro(ii.).i (d it he one);'.'xiut tlie favourite virtues ofthe iil.iiiders
and th(.ir neighlv.uirs on th..- opivii'te coaft. Ltt us recod^ct, that when our ibvurcigns
had ;my relpite from foreign and il ime.iic troubles, they did not neglecl; to try all
im.uis to ailiniilate thcte diitant ikitls of their dominions to their other more peacea'/lo
and iiidulhious lubjeds. 'I'he u.olt of tiie pr;iprieturs, inifi\id of iie.ldiiig of the lords
of tile illes, were, on the fall of tliat great lamily, ilireded by their belt friends to get
tilt ir charters conlirmed by King Janios IV. Km.,, Jamos V. made an expedition am^ng
them, to quell tln-ir infurrcdioi,: ; and King Jai'.:i.s Vi. jerioufly pro|i<>l'ed to introduce
the comforts of civiliv:ation amtnig lh;m, when, ia hi> fJfVeenth parliament, lie ereded
the lin-ee burghs of Kilkrrran or Campbeliowr., Inverlochy, and Stornew.iy, whicii,
though among a people iinpatieiU of foreigI^ intruders, they did not produce the full
effect inteiided bv government, y\t made way for beating and dillrefling the renegadoes
into good maimers, by means of the Campbels and lYJiclienxdes, loyal fubjeds iup'porteJ
by pulJic luihvrity, as could not mils to determine the illauuers and others to fubmit
to good order.

At length the local cnlloms, and fuch new flatutes as occafion required, enaded by
the ])ropri<-tor, his badey, and fome of the bett' r 'ort of p.opje, wire reduced into
writing, not above a century ago, ia the ifle of Sky, and proclaimed annually at thij

'till

' tj.i '"

;^i

A: I

..iiii,

I :1

* Watle a f jrcd vif.t.

charcli*-

'■I'ls

; (

hi!

- f •

550 ' pennant's second TOOR in SCOTLAND.

chnrch-doors. Some of thefe regulations are furprizingly regular and dlftlnft ; and
under the adminiftration of a humane maftcr and a judicious bailey, thj people found
theinfelvcs happy enough. While the fpirit of clanfhip prefcrved any of its warmth
the chieftain feldoni intended an injury ; and when any was oflFered, by him or by
another, it was foou demoliflied by the weight of a multitude ; but when this balance
of power was weakened and dilfolved, the people lay much at mercy. In time of a
minority, or when the proprietor took it into his head to vilit London or Edinburgh, the
oflate being left under the management of this bailey, who generally was the ftevward or
fadtor, the rights of mankind were often trampled under foot : being his milter's eves,
ears, and almoft his very foul, by whom he faw, heard, and undtrltood every thing,
any obnoxious perfon was eafily mifreprefented. In time of a ininority his powers of
doing mifchief were more unreftrained, tutors being lefs attentive than any men to their
own intereft. Scarce an imperial procurator fent to one of the diilant provinces, clad
in all the authority of the fovercign city, was more dreadful than he, wiun a jud^'^^e,
executor of the laws, raifer of the rents, a drover, and entrulted with keeping the lands.
The feats of juftice were at too great a diftance ; the law a flow, uncertain, expenlive
redrefler of grievances ; the faftor like to be fupported by his conflituent, uhiL' the
general voice of a fervile neighbourhood went along with the man in power, l !iefe
were difcouragcmcnts which the freble tffurts of a farmer could not eafily lunnounr.
In proportion as the old military fpirit decayed, all the mtural and artificial conn clions
of the clans diflblved apace j every man was then Icit lingle, to combat a force too
flrong for him to manage. In a very fcafonahle hour the heritable jurlldicfUons wore
aboliftied, and IherifFs depending upon the fovereign alone appointed to difpcnfe jullice,
which was furely a great relief to the Icidgos, where their fphere of adion was not 100 ex-
tenfivc for themfelves or the fubftitules they were able or willing to employ in oxcentric
corners ; even in that cafe the people niuftcred up more Spirit, and acquired fome
knowledge of the rights they were born to.

The proprietors had flill a hold which the laws could not even moderate ; for they
could fet what value they pleated on their freehold ; and fome among them who had run
themfi'lves in debt by high living ; fome who had a padion for money, and did not fuf-
ficently confider the ftate of their people, the greater number iniltaking the hi;4h prices
of cattle and of the other produce of their lands for the true flandard by which to dVw
mate their rent-roll, without making the neceflary allowance for the greater difburic'-
ment of the farmers in fervants' wages, implements of tillage, and in every article of
living and family-keeping ; and others, a few I believe, unwilling to fee any part of their
former authority taken away without a fuitable conipenfation for it, loaded their people
with heavier rents than the advanced price of their cattle, Sec. could bear ; and rather
than fink under this burden, crowds of them made their way to the wiids of America ;
though the rage of emigration, like a contagious dillemper, feized upon feveral who
had little caufe to complain.

P. S. The hand-fifling of the fouthem part of Scotland has put me in mind of an
cmifTion in the above. It was an ancient pradice, among the men of rank efpccially, to
take an year's trial of a wife, and if they were mutually fatisHed with one another in
that time, the marriage was declared good and lawful at the expiration of it. But when
cither of the parties infifted upon a feparation, and that a child was begotten in the vear
of probation, it was to be taken care of by the father only, and to be ranked anionr^ his
lawful children next after his heirs. He was not conluiered as a baflani, becauft- the
cohabitation was jullified by cullom, and introduced with a view of inakin .j way for a
happy and peaceal^le marriage. One of the great Lords of the Illes took fuch a trial of
a noblemati's daughter upon the continent, got u fon by her, and after feparation fettled

!i-K

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

55^

an extenfive fortune upon him in lands tcncndus de me, et hercdibiis meis, the greater part
of which his hoiinurahlt' po(b rity pofld's to this day. Such was alfo the power of cuf-
toni, that this appreuticefliip for matrimony brought no reproach on the feparatcd lady ;
and if h r character was good, flie was entitled to an equal match as if nothing had ever
happt-nod.

Adultery war, puniflied hero by dipping the guilty in a pond, or by making him or
her Hand ii> a barrel ot cold water at the church door ; and when the rigour of judicial
dil'cipline was a little foftcncd, the vielinquent, clad in a wet canvafs fhirt, was made t*
Hand before the congregation ; and at the clofe of fervice, the minifter explained to
him tile nature of liis ollence, and exhorted him to repentance.

All civil profeiTioiis were anciently hereditary in the ifles. The bards, XheJJjeanchies
or genealogiRs, the phyficians, the pipers, and even the cooks, all of whom had appoint-
ments in lands fettled on them, according to the munificent temper of the feudal go-
vt) nment. It was only in the time of our fathers, that Macdonald of Glan-ronald's
Siieanchy and Bard, Mac-Mliurach, began to pay rent for his heretable farm. The
other hereditary profeflions have long been come to a clofe, except the Mac-Kartars and
Mac-Krumens, the pipers of the family of Mac-Donald and Mac-Leod, who ftill pre-
ferve their appointments. I fhall alfo except Uoftor John Maclean, whofe anceftors
have been phyficians to the family of Macdonald for time immemorial, educated at the
expence, and preferred to the farm of Shulifta, near the gates of Duntulm. The late
Sir James Macdonald, for the farther encouragement of the above gentleman, fettled
upon him a confiderable penfion during life, to raife alfo the emulation of any of his
fons who might be bred to his bufuiefs, when they obferve a di(lin£lion made according
to the merit of thefe hereditary profeilors of medicine.

Though the profeflions were confined to one family, which might naturally be fup-
pofed to quench emulation, yet the frequent occafion thefe artills had of intermixing with
the neighbouring chiofiains, determined them to fupport the pride of their fuperiors, by
exerting their whole powers to excel every other profefTor of their own art ; becaufe
their love and attachment to their chief was the firlt principle of their education.

Neitiier have 1 heard that any of thefe families ever failed, though, according to the
courfe of things, that fometimes might have happened ; but they had the choice of the
women among their own rank, the fuperior often giving, diredions in this momentous
affair ; and among a number of children fome one or other would be found fit to fol-
low his father's, or, in cafe of an accident, his uncle's calling:. It would be llrange in-
deed, if, among ten or twelve funs, Dcilor Maclean could not find one with a genius
tor phyfic.

Of the Giiingiih.
By the Same.

BEFORE the arts of carving, engraving, or ftatuary-work were invented, or in the
countries, into which they were not introduced, the repiefentations of the Divinity
whether hij^h or fuborJinate, were no other than the trunks of trees, or rude unformed
(tones. The emblem of the Supreme God at Dodona, confecrated by tho Hyperbo-
reans, was the trunk uf an oak, and fo it was n\ the Mallilian gruve.

jimiiUcraciiic milla Deorum

Aitc carciit, cacfifque extant iufuijnia triir.t.is.

The

552

pennant's SHCOND tour, in SCOTLAND.

The emblem of Apollo at Delphi, fet up by the Pelas-Gi, the primitive inhabitants of
Greece, was no other than a pillar ol (tone. Several examples of this kind arc men-
tioned by Clemens Alcxandriniis and Eufel^ius.

As the Celtic tribes ■ttoifiiipped ipiritual Gods, whether the Supreme, or fubordinate
«jries ; they well knew that material reprcftntations could not bu ;.\-prcflivo of them,
though the trunk of a tree or a llor.e cculd very well mark out thi place of wordiip, in
a grove or on tlie fummitof a mountain, where the Imall focieties in the neighbourhood
might convene on folemn occiifions, or as the neceHity of tlie coiv.ruinity might feem
to require, in order to conciliaic the favour and allillance oithe Divini y v.honi they rc-
fort?d to. Men of diflerent religious principles have been often unjuK to one another
in common charge ofidolalr\ ; il'.c Proteilants lay it :o the account of the Catholicn,
the Catholirs to the account of Pigans of all ilcnounnationf;, which all deny, who know
bt ft what they are employed about. They lurely pray, fuch at lead: of them as can
think, not [o a (lock or a ilone, wheth.cr in a ftate of nature or formed by an into a
^atue, but ;>> tiie Divinity, of which one or the other is an emblem. Among the
variety of fuh'irern Divinities, which the Celtic tribes worfliipped, tii..' Ipirit of the fun
wrs in ihe f-uiroil rank, ihc fun being the inoft chearful, and the mod univerfally be-
neficent of all created and vifible beings. It brought jv>y and gladnefs along with it to
all the animal creation, to groves, to fields, and nitadowo. The day of its return was
celebrated in every i illricl: by a/t.v dcjoyc ; whence May-day v/as called in the Gaulic,
la Beltein, the day of Bei\s fire ; Beli^ being one of the names of tiio fun in Gaul.
Utrodian, lib. 8. The vvorlhip of the fun was fo frequent, that feveral miflook it for
the piincipal objefl of adorat'.n. The incl'ifures caded Grianan, or Cirianh:ini, the
Iloufeof the Sun, are to be met with every vh re, in which tlicy offered their lacrificcs,
-commoidy norfes, burnt betwixt two large fireb ; whenci' ihe proverb, " lie is betwixt
two Beltein fire?," which is np[)lied to one in the hands df two arthii pi'rlons, whole in-
trigues he is not ai-le to efcape. From tiiele incloliires ti)i'V alio receiveii oracular re-
fponfes. When the elegant arts were invei;ted, the Celtic Diities appeared carved, en-
graved, or painted, in fuch forms as the iinaginaiion of tin' workman fuggelled to him
as the moft: emblematical and cxpreiTn e of the common cfuicc-ir they tnteriaiiied of the
Divinities they meant to point out. Then they changed thi.- rude iu ps into figures
refcmbling living creatur(S, generally into men, as being the molt honourable foruis.
The Spirit of the Sur, or the God who, according to the aiiTient creed, guided it in
its '.ourfe, was figured as a voung liv( ly man, with lofg, yellow, dithevclkd hair : under
<his appearance Apollo hath the epitlut of yf.:<:oA-iAo;^ the golden haired, given him
by Euripides ; and of aKfifuxcp-o., the unfiiaven, by Ilon\er, alluding to beams of the
fun, which are long and yellow. This imaginary conceit of tiie llypi/vborean .Apollo
made its way to the Highlands of Scotland, wlure to this day he is called by the n mo
of Gruagach, the fiir-haired. Ihe fiiperlliiion or warm imagination of ignorant
people introduced him as a fportive f.duiary gucft into li-veral families, in which lie
played many entertaining tricks and then difappeared. It is a little more th..n a cen-
tury ago, fir.re lij hatli be( n fuppdfed fo h.ivo got an honeft mail's daughter with child,
ai Shuliibi, near to Duntulmc, the ieat of the iatnily t f M:'cdonald : though it is nmre
probable, that one of the great man's reiinut did that bufinefs for him. But though
tile Grua'^ach oflers himfelf to every one's huity as .young handfonie man, witlifair
trtlfes, his fi.ddt ir.s, uhich an- in ahnoft cv-ry viil,'.;i', are no other than rude unpo-
lifhed iiones of different figures juft as th- ; leemed call up to the hand of the Druid
who conftcraitcd them. Carving was not introduced into the Hebrides ; and though it

5 iiad,

!■•"•■,

pennant's SECONn TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

S5i

had, fuch of the unformed images as were preferved would for their antiquity be reve-
renced, in preference of any attempts in the modern arts.

The Gruagich (tones, as far as tradition can inform us, were only honoured with li-
bations of millc from the hands of the dairy maid, which were oft'ered to Gruagach
upon the Sunday, for the prefervation of the cattle on the enfuing week. From this
cuftom Apollo feems to have derived the epithet Galaxius This was one of the fober
cflcrings that well became a poor or frugal people, who had neither wine nor oil to
beftow ; by which they recommended their only ftock and fubfiilehce to their fa-
vourite divinity, whom they had always in their eye, and whofe bleHings they enjoyed

every day. ^The infcription " ApoUini Granno" (Grianich the Sunny) was on a

ftone of this kind, dug up from the ruins of the Roman Pretenture, in King James the
fixth's time— ^— The infcription in Gruter, " Apollini Befmo," fcems to have been

on fuch another, The rock idols of Cornwall, in Dr. Borlafe, feem to be of the

fame kind, though of different forms ; for it was not the fhape, but the confecration,
that pointed out the& ufes. Notwithftanding they are numerous in this ifland, you
will fcarce meet with any two of them of the fame caft. The idol (tones befides
that remain with us are oblong fquarc altars of rough (lone, that lie within the Druids
houfes, as we call them. Obferve alfo, that the worlhip of the fun feems to have con-
tinued in England until King Canute's time, by a law of his, which prohibits that, with
other idolatrous practices.

Counties.

APPENDIX.— Number XI.

0/the Numbers in the Hebrides and the Wejlern Highlands.

Proteflants

Argylc —

Argyle —
Invemefs —

Rofs

Pariflies,

Toracy ") —
Rofs MfleofMull

Kilmore ^ —

Cannay —

Muck —

Rum —

Egg —

Slate —

Strath —

Portree —

Brackadel —

Diurnifli and Watemifli

Kilmuir —

Snizort —

Loch-Broom —

AiTynt —

Gair-loch —

Applecrofs —

Lock^carran —

Kintail ~

Iflcof

Skie.

catechizable.

893
I200

1800

271

44
1400

900

1 1 00

^ 2500

2500

1300

800
2000
1600
3000
1200

';74

fouls
600

Roman

Catholics.

— 7

276

»3

390
I

■j;

■ ,1

.1 . v

VOL. (II.

Invernj^fs

554

pennant's second TOXJR in SCOTLAND.

■M ■■■

Counties.
Invernefs

Argylc

Parirticj.

Glcndg, Berncra —
K nod y art and 7
NorthMorrar3

{South Morrar
Arifag —
Moydart
Sunnari:
Ardnamurchan —
IVlorvern —

Lil'inorc and Appin

I'roti'll.mts
ciitcclii/ablo.

— 660

Roman

Cathulitts.

— — — 950

All ill
the Pa-
rilh of

4
10

439

957

1 100

2S60

300

500

Thefe arc the Parifhcs mentioned in the Report, which I either vifitcd or failed by.
The reader nmy be piobaby defirous of a view ot the numbers oontained in the other

•.■1 ^ i_ ._.! • 1- n 11 1- _• _ L\ .u . r .1 :... -_-i .i_ -r^

iflands ; whic'
tioned.

f'lali be given from the fame authority, except when othenvife men-

lavernefs —

Argyle —

Ifle of Lewis *

Stonvaway

Lochs

Elig

Barvas -

Ifle of Harris

with Remera

Pabbay

Killegray

I'.nfay

Joranfay

Scaop
North Will '
with lioyfliir >

Barra )
South Wift
with Benbecula

Erifca
Barra t

St. Kilda I
Tir-I
Col -

2000
800

1000
1000

1
I

^2000

i
J

— 1700 —

— 250

~ So

— S8

— 1240
"— 900

— 1850

IC20

— 3

•* According to tlic accriint » immwnicatfd to m« hy Mr. GHIandci-, ajjciit of the ilLnd, ilie i u:)i!tr of
foi!'., Ill 1-63, .uiiiniiitcd ti) hftwccMi lijjhi ai.d nine th.tulaiid.

t Barra wan a Prodll.irt ilk till ihr nigii of charks II. wlifii fome Catholic miirii)narii.s. t.iUiiig ad-
tantaL'e of the vfa\<c\ aui ill oniidjil of tu- rrinillcr, ljroi;jlit the inliabitaiAs over to tho'r uli.'ioii,

X from Mr. Nfacaulay'3 liillory of that illar.d. "

APrtNDlX.

-^m

FENNANT's SacOND TOUR IN SCOTLANU.

555

APPENDIX.— Number XII.

Copy of a Writ of Fire and Sword.

" CHARLES, by the grace of God, King of" Great Britain, France, and Ireland,
Defender of the Faith, To our Lovites *

MenTcngcrs, our Sherifies in that part, con-
jiin£tly and feverally, fpecially conflitut ; and to all and fundry our Lidges whom it
efleirs, grcittir.g. Forafmuchas wee and the Lords of our Privy Councell being informed,
that upon the 23d day of June lafl by pad, the Perfons underwritten, viz. Lauchlan
M'Laine of Broloies, Ilcdor Oig IVI'Laine his brother, 6:c. were orderl) denounced
rebels and put to the horn by virtue of letters of denounciation direct at the inftancc
of Duncan Fifher, Procurator Fifcal of the Jufticiar Court of Argyle for our iarcreft:
againd them, for their not compearing perfonally wiihin tiu; Tolbuith t/f the burgli of
Innerrar)', upon the faid 23d day of June lalt, before Mr. John Campbell of Moy,
Slieriife Depute of the Sherrin'edome of Argyle, to our right trufty and well beloved
Coufin and Counccllor Archibald Earle of Argyle, IJerctable Jufticiar G?neral of the
faid Shyre of Argyle and the ifles thereof, as they who were lawfully cited upon the
24th and 25th days of May lafl:, by Duncan Clarke, Mtfilnger, to have compeared the
faid day and place, to have found caution a-Sted in the bookcs of adjournal! for their
compearance the laid day, to have anfvvered and underlycn the law for their convo-
cating the number of thr -• ■ or four hundreth men in Aprile hiil, by fending of Fvrc
proces thro' thv ille of Mull, Morv^ran, and other places, and ri'malaing and abydeinf
upon th(,' lands of Kr.ok'.rlmanin in ane warlyke pollure, from the .2d of the faid
month to the lall thereof; as alio eonvocating one hundreth men, and keeping them
in arms the fpace fur laid at Gaddeily and Glenforfay ; and licklike for garrifoning
the houf ami fort of Cairnbulg upon the day of the faid month,

or ane or otht-r of them, with the number of armed perfons, and

appointing a captain and other officers for keeping the fame, and fecuring the country
againd the execution of our laws ; for their violent away carrying foveral corns, bear,
horfe, and fuyne, arreiled upon the lands of Croffehoill and Sulnavaig, by Duncan
Clarke Mi lie ger, notwithftandingof a lawful intimation made by tlie laid MeiTenger of
the fciid arrellmeiit ; and hkewife for the faid Lauchlan M'Laine of i?roloies, and Datid
Ram'iy commiirary of the ifles, and their followers, bting in Tirie in Aprile lad, and
oppicfliiig the tenants there, by quartering and Ibrninjij upon thciu, and eaufmg bring
\nt.A\ and provifion frae the tenints and polVefibrs of Kendway in Tirie, and others, to
Lauchlan M'Laine baillie, in Tirie, his houfe in Kilfaile ; and ladly, for the forfaid
perfons and their followers, in the months of March or Aprile lail, tiioir entering into
a leaf;ue and bond, and obligeing their. [i.-lvcs by oath to join and adhere one to a:!other,
and immediately thereafter garrilbned the houle and iort of Cairnbu'^ ia maJiner for-
faid, eontrai' to and in contempt of our laws and a£ts of parliairient made api'.ind thefe
i.ryn.es in maimer at length fpecitied in the criminal letters i-aife 1 a;,ainn: them therc-
..n.iii, as the faid letters of denunciation, duly execute and regidrate in the books of
ralj.iunial of the Jult'ce Court of the Shyre of Argyle, conform to theadr of parliament,
proiluced in the prejjnce of the Lords cf our Privy Counce 1 brars. Ai the jr, oce s
of the wliich horn the forenamed perfons mod proudely and eontemptuoufly lye and
rcjnain taking no reguard thereof nor of our authority and laws, bet in contempt of

e. I^oy.iI (ir true fu')jrii\»
4 B 2

■.it

:<' J 1

"*' ifl

the

i'»>l

Mi,

8 isJ ■'

V^ 1

fl^

5S<i

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

the fame haunts, frequents, and repairs to all places within this our realm, as if they
were our free leidges. Wee therefore, with the advice of the Lords of our Privy
Council, have made and conflituto, and hereby make and conftitute, the Lord Neill
Canipbrll, John Campbell younger of Glenorchy, Sir James Campbell of Lawers, John
M'Leod of Dunvegan, Sir Norman M'Leod, Campbell of Ardfiuglas,

M'Donald captain of Clanronald, Alexander Campbell, uncle to Auchinbreck,

M'AIafter of Loop, and Duncan Stewart of Appin, our commiflioners in that
part, to the efFcft after Aieceificd givand, grantand, and committand to them con-
junflly and fevcrally our full power and commiirion, exprefs bidding, and charge to
coiivocat our leidges in amies, and to pafs, fearch, feek, take, and apprehend, and,
in cafe of rofillancc or hoflile oppofition, to purfue to the death the faids Lauchlan
Maclalne of Broloes and remnant perfons forefaids rebcUs for th;: caufos above-written.
And if for their defence they (hall happen to flee :o ftrcngthes or houfes, in that cafe.
Wee, with advice forefaid, give full power and authority to our faids CommilFioners
conjiiiKflly nnd fevcrally as faid is, to pafs, perfue, and afledge the faids ftrengtiis and
houfi-b, 1 jil'..' fyre and ail kyiul of force aiul warlyke cngynes that can be had, for
winning and recovering thereof, and apprehending tlic fiids relxUs and their comp'ices
being ti'.ereintill ; and it in purfuto of the faids rcbells and their lomplices, tiiey refill-
ing to be taken, or in aifedging the faids llrengths and houfes, tliere Ihall liappcn to
be iyre raifing, nuitilation, flaughter, dcltrudion of corns or goods or other incon-
venience:^ to follow. Wee, with advvce forefaid, will and grant, and for us and our fuc-
ccfTor?, decern and ordain, that the ilimo Ihall not be imputed as ciymc or offence
to our fdid Comminioners, nor to the perfons aflKling them in the execution of this
our comniiilion ; witii power to our faids Conunillion.rs, or fuch as lliall be convocat
be them, to bear, wear, aiul make life of hagbutis and piltoils in the execution of this
cur coiumiflion, notwithllanding of any law in the coiurary. And firder, we do hereby
take our faids Con-.rniflioners and Inch perfons as (hall allill tliom in the execution ot
this our commillion, under our fpecial protei'lion and fafeguanl. And this our com-
niiflion to continow and endure for the fpaco of ane year afier the date hereof: Pro-
vydtd that our faids Commiflioners give ane account to us of their diligence and pro-
cedure herein betwixt and the firll day of January next.

" Our will is herefore, and we charge you ftrictly and command that, incontinent
thir our letters fcen, )e pafs to the market troffes of and other

places needful, and thereat in our name and authflrity command and charge all jnd
funilry our good and loving Tubjeds, in tluir r.vifl fubftantial and warlyke manni'r, to
ryfe, concur with, fortify and ifliil our faids Commiflioners in the execution of this
our conuniflion under ail highell payncs and charges that after may follow.
Given at, &c."

The above is copied from the records ol the Privy Council of Scotland, on the 2 2.1
July 1675.

APPENDIX.— NuMBLR XIIL
0/ the Sivvcm.

^f" :

■ >%.

A Loathfouie and very int'edious difcaf- ofilie venerenl kind, cnlled the .Sivvcn-?, hns
loi\n afllK'ted ih." inhabit uus of the Highlands, aiul from thence Ionic parts of the
Lowlands iu Seel LkkI, even a:, iar as the burdrs of i'.u^l.inil. Tradirion faysthitit

a was

PENNANT 8 SfiCOND TOUR IN SCOTX^AND.

$S7

was introduced by the foldiers of Cromwell garrifoned in the Hiefilands. It occafions
foul ulcers in the throat, mouth, ant' (kin, and fometimes deep boils, whicli, when ulcer-
ated, put on a cancerous appearance. It fometimes deftroys the nofe, or caufes the
teeth to drop out of their fockets ; fometimes a funeus appears in various parts of the
body, refembling a ralberry, in the Erfe language CHlled Sivven. This diforder chiefly
attacks children, and the lowell clufs of peoplf, who communicate it to each other by
their dirty habit of I'ving. It is propagated not eniy by fleeping with, fucking, or fu-
luting the infefte.^ irat even by ufing thfe fame fpoon, knife, glafs, cup, pipe, cloth,
&c. before they have been waflied and cleaned. This, like other fpccies of the ve-
nereal c! feafe, is cured by mercury; and the only means of preventing fo dreadful a
malady is by the llridell attention to every circumftance of clcanlincfs.

APPENDIX— Number XIV.
On the Duchcfs of Atholl una l^ady Wright Jijhing at AthoU-Uoitfc.

By a Lady.

WHERE f'/er-i^oted Garry nimbly flows,

Whole verdant banks the nymphs and naiads love ;

Where nature ev'ry blooming fweet bellows,
Not lefs delightful than Idalia's grove j

As contemplation led my wand'ring feet

Along the margin of the cryftal flood.
The feather'd fongfters hail'd the fweet retreat,

And gentle zephyrs whifper'd thro' the wood.

Charm'd with the fcone, filent a while I gaz'd.

Intently lifl:ening to t'le murm'ring ftream,
In grateful tranfports nature's God I prais'd.

And long my foul purfu'd the rapt'rous theme.

At length I heard, or fancy form'd the tale,

A gentle voice in -ournful notes complain j
Soft echo bore the a - nts thro' the vale.

And thus the mounv. feem'd to breathe his pain :

•* Why did I idly leavc the coral groves.

Where lafety on the breaft of filence lies?
Danger dill waits the lieedlefs fool that roves.
And in purfuit of fleeting blili- he dies.

" One fatal day, as nc. r the brink 1 flray'd.

Two plcafing forms lean'd o'er the trembling brook ;
Their gentle fmiles an artlefs mind betray'd .
Mifchief lure never wore fo fair a look !

« Each

Mi]

L\'^,:

55«

PENNANT 8 SECOND TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

•' Had) held a ma^ic wand with womi'ious grace,
A pciuldiu line convcy'd the tempting bait j
O ! fight portentous to the hnny race.

Fraught with 'he dire command ot cruel fate!

*' Mv iciidcr mate play'd lea. hy my fide ;

Vilh eager joy Ihe rn.it( n d th(; hidden dart,
Inihini, alas ! I lol^ lUy li ^ iy biide ;

What rackin^i torture feiz'd my wounded heart I

" E'er lince that hour, to pining grief a prey.
My flowing tears incrc de my native ilood j
In melancholy fighs I wailc the day,

And fhun the commerce of the fcaly brood.

*' Should chance this mournful tale at IMair relate,

Wliere dwell the dang'rous fair wiio caus'd my pain ;
They who can love fo well would mourn my fate,
And ne'er dillurb our harmlefs race again."

APPENDIX.— NuMnKR XV.
Rrpyttory of AJhcs.

TWO miles north of Coupar Angus, near a fmall village crdled Coupar Grnn^'e,
on a gentle eminence, was lately difcovcred a repofitory of the iiflies of lacrificis, which
our anceflors were wont to otfer up, in honour of tlieir deitit.s. It is a large fp.ice,
of a circular form, fenced with a wall on either lide, and paved at bottom with tiags.
The walls arc about five feet in height ,.ii 1 buiit with coarlo ftoiie. They fiain an
outer and an inner circle, diflant iwn\ each other nine feet. '1 he diameter of the inner
circle is fixty feet j and the area of i' \:- ol ;; piece with the circumjacent foil. IJut the
Jpace between the walls is filled wwh ailjcs of wood, particularly oak, .ind wiiii the
bones of various fpecies of animals. I CLuld plainly diltinguilh the extremities of fe-
veral bones of flieep ; and was informed ihat teeth of o.xcii and Iheep had been uamd.
The top of the walls and allies is near two feet below the furface of the field. The
entry is from the N. W. and about ten or twelve feet in breadth. From it a pathway
li.\ teet broad, and pavcil with finall dones, leads ea!lw;ird to a large free-flone, itand-
ing ercft between tiic walls, and reaching (wc leet above the pavement, luppoited by
other Hones at bottom. It is flat on the upper part and two feet fquare. Another
repofitory of the fame kind and dimenfions was fbiiie months ago difcovered at the dil-
tancc of thre? hundred paces fioin the former. From the numbers of oak trees that
have been digged out of the neighbouring grounds it would appear that this was an-
ciently a grove.

A further account of fimilar firuclures have been fince communicated to me,

Mr. Pennant, in the third volume of his Tour in Scotlind, gives an account of .^n

ancient building difcovered near tiie village of Coupar Grange, uithin tuo miles of

Coupar in Angus ; this he fuppoies was a repofit M-y for the allies of the facrifices which

our uncellors were wont to oiler in honour of their deities. A building of this kind,

6 and

PENNANT S 8KC0ND TOUR IN SCKJTI.AND* 559

and wliich probably had been intended for the fame jnirpojes, was lately difcovered
in the county of Edinhiirgh, in u field to the north o'' Midleton houfc, tiu fe-U of
Mr. Michclfon, and about a mile and halt Ibuth-weft of Bortliwick callle. Th.s build-
ing, likL' that defcribed by Mr. Pennant, was about a foot under the prefent fnrfacc of
the field, and was difcovered by the plough ; it differed from Mr. Pennant's in being
only an irreinilar ferment of a circle, and in having the bottom lin d wiih fine clay in
place vi Hags; like Mr. Pennant's, it had a narrow entry, pointi^ig nearly N. W. Be-
low 1 have ivcn a rude figure, with the JimeP.fions. This building is formed in go-
lieral of rough land Hones, and is open at top, the Hones not bound or overhi,<ping
one anoher as in good inafor ry, and none, even of the belt (tones, appear to have
b«en formed by art ; the furroundinr is grasol going deeper than the foundation

i)f the walls. The whole fpair bt ills was filled with materials very dif-

ferent from the circui-iiacent foil : the part of the contents was a rich black

mould, irregularly intei ,. rfed wi ot wood, burnt earth, and bones reduced

to a refemblancc of iaw-dull ; a grcu ,. th in a nv re perfed 11 !e, fome of them

very entire, all evidently the teeth oi Pi yous animals, fome plainly the teeth of

flicep and oxen, and no appcaranc ' of ; .m ■. teeth. No artihcial fubilances were
found, nor any thing clfe but fome Hones that mult have fallen from the furrounding
walls. The whole bottom was lined to the depth of fome inches with fine foft clay.
On a rifing grc and to the eafl, called are fome 1;'. ge Hones, and are

probably remains of fome ancient religious Hru£lure. About a mile to the well a field
called the CheHers, with regular terrafles, on a bank to the north of it. It is wifhed
that our Britifli antiquarians would conlider this ancient fubterraneous building, and
give fome account of it.

P. S. I am informed that a building of the above kind has been lately difcovered
in the paH of Fife.

Beginning of the entry

Length of the cnt/y

Outward wall of the circular part

Inward wall of ditto

Height of the circular walls

Width betwixt the circular walls

Inch.

6 broad.

»5

— long.

lA i|

■ i k il

JT.W

; t

..••*

Defcnption of Craighall.

CRAIGIIALL, a gentleman's feat, two miles north of Blairgowrie. The fitnaticn
of it is romantic beyond the power of defcription. It is placed in the midH of a deep
gUn, furrounded on all fides with wide-extended dreary heaths ; where are Hill to be
lecii the rude monuments of thoufands of our anceHors, who here fought and fell.

The

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Photographic

Sciences

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33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY 14580

(716) 872-4503

'56c

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

The houfe itfelf (lands on the brow of a vaft precipice, at the foot of which the river
Erecht runs deep and fullen along. It commands a profpcd for the fpace of half a
mile northward, the mod pleafant and moft awful that can be conceived. About
twice the diftance now mentioned, the river, that had for many miles glided along beau-
tifully floping banks, covered with trees of various kinds planted bv the hand of nature,
feels itfelf conBned in a narrow channel, by rocks of an aftonifning height, throijgh
the chinks of which the oaks (hoot forth and embrace each other from oppofite fides,
fo as to exclude the kindly influences of the fun, and to occafion almoft a total darknefs
below. The dream concealed from our view makes a tremendous noife, as if aflFrighted
by thp horrors of its confinement.. The echoing of the caves on every fide render the
fcene dill more dreadful. At length the river is diverted in its courfe by a promontory
of a great height, vulgarly called Lady Lindfay's Caflle; Near the fummit this rock is
feparatedtnto two divifions, each of which rifes to a confiderable height, oppofite one
to another, and appear like walls hewn out of folid done. In the intermediate fpace*
fame fays, this adventurous heroine fixed her refidence. After a few more windings,
the river directs its courfe to Graighall, having faluted feveral impending precipices as
it ruflied along ; particularly one of enormous fize and fmooth in front, at the bafc of
which, in a hollow cavern, is heard a continual dropping of water at regular intervals.

Reeky Linn.

REEKY LINN,'three miles north of Alyth,and two from the famous hill of Barry,
one of the larged and mod beautiful cafcades of water in Scotland. The river Iflay
here darts over a precipice fixty feet in height. Through the violence of the fall the
vapour is forced upward in the air like fmoke, or, as the Scotch term it, reek, from
whence it has its name. For a confiderable fpace along the courfe of the river, the
rocks on each fide rife a hundred feet, and the river itfelf, in feveral places, has been
found thirty fathoms deep.

0/ certain Antiquities in the Neighbourhood of Perth.
Communicated by Mr. Thomas Makshall.

ON the eadern banks of the Tay, about a mile and a quarter above Perth, is a place
called Rome, to which the Roman road, traced from Ardoch to InnerpeiFery and Dup-
plin, points, and is continued on the other fide of the Tay, in the manner that fhall be
prefently obferved.

At Rome is fuppofed to have been abridge made of wood ; for, in very dry feafons,
large beams of oak, placed up and down the dream, are feen. Thefe were the founda-
lions, fixed exaftly in a fpot where the tide never flows, and is only immediately out of
its reach. This bridge was much frequented, drongly guarded, perhaps often attacked ;
for in the ground on the weftern fide are frequently found urns.

About half a mile ead of Rome, at a place called SherifTtown, are the vediges of a
fort, but much defaced by agriculture. The caufeway or Roman road is continued
from Rome, turns north at the fields of Sherifitown, and palTes through a noted Roman
camp at GrafTywall.

In its courfe It goes by a druidical temple confiding of nine large dones, furrounding
an area o( twenty-five feet diameter, placed on a fummit commanding a great view.
'Ibe road then pafTes Berry-hill, and through the village of Dirige-inoor, where it is
very complete. From tlience it is continued by the houfe of Byres, Stobhall, and
Gallow.moor, near which are two other druidical temples, of nine dones each. The

road

VENNANT's second tour in SCOTLAND.

561

road afterwards paiTes near E. Hutton, and from thence runs to the banks of the Ilia
or Hay. Its whole courfe from Rome to this place is nine miles, vifible in many places,
left fo near to the villages as the ftones have been removed for building.

At the fpot where the road touches on the Ilia, a bridge is fuppofed once to have
ftood: the necefllty is evident; for on the oppofite fide was a confiderable Roman
poft. The Romans profited of the commodious accident of the two rivers, the Tay
and the Ilia, which unite at a certain diftance below. Thefe formed two fecure fences :
the Romans made a third by a wall of great thicknefs, defended again by a dicch both
on the infide and the outfide. Thefe extend three miles in a line from the Tay to the
Ilia, leaving within a vaft fpace, in form of a Delta. Near the head of the bridge is a
large mount exploratory, and probably once proteded by a tower on the fummit. On
a line with this are two others ; one about the middle of the area, the other nearer the
Tay : thefe are round ; but Mr. Marfhall doubts whether they are the work of art.
But clofe to the jundion of the Tay and Ilia is a fourth, artificial, which is Ryled Car-
rick-know, or the Boat.hill, and feems defigned to cover a landing-place. I muft note
that the wall is flyled the Cleaving-wall. It merits further difquifition, as it will pro-
bably be found to be fubfervient to the ufes of the camps at Hiethic and other places In
the neighbourhood, which fome native antiquary may have ample time to explore.

Not far from Blairgown is a vaft reQanguIar inclofure, encompafTed with a lofty
rampart and a deep ditch ; the length is an Englifh mile and a quarter ; the breadth
half a mile. Three rifmg grounds run parallel to each other the whole length of it.
Two rivulets and Lornty water take likewife parallel courfes at the bottom between
thefe rifmgs. In certain parts within are multitudes of tumuli. The fame are obferved
in greater numbers on the fouth exterior fides, and fome on the eaft. With them are
mixed feveral circular buildings, with an entrance on one part : of thefe little more
than the foundations are left, which are fix feet thick. Some include an area of forty-
eight feet ; but the greater number only twenty-feven. The ditch is on the infide ; by
which this inclofure appears to have been defigned for a different purpofe than a camp.
It probably was an oppidum of the ancient inhabitants of the country : the circular foun-
dations, the reliques of their habitations, which, when entire, might have been of the
form of the Danifh Dunes, fo frequent in the Hebrides ; as the tumuli are certainly the
places of interment.

APPENDIX.-NuMBER XVI.

An abridged Account of the EffeHs of the Lightning which broke on Melvill lioufe, in Fife*
JhirCt the Scat oftfje Earl of Leven^ on the %'jth ofOdobcr^ > 733 •"

Being Extraftsofa Letter from Mr. Colin MACt.AtJRiN, ProfcITor of Mathematic* at Edinburgh, to

Sir Haws Sluane.

« SIR, Edinburgh, December 3, 173,^.

" AT the defire of the Earl of Leven I went to Melvill houfe, and took a particular
furvey of the effefts of the lightning, which broke upon the houfe on the 27th of 0£to-
ber laft. As fome of them were very furprifing, I thought it might be worth while to
fend you the following relation, not doubting of your thinking it worthy the attention
of the Royal Society. The houfe ftands about twenty miles north from Edinburgh,
on the north fide of a plain, which extends far from eaft to weft and towards three

VOL. III. 4 ^ JnJ'ei

: \(l

562 pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

miles broad, fronts to the eaflward of fouth, and near it arc great plantations, which
alnioft furround it, and in forae places extend to the diftance of three miles.

•' We had fine weather in this country from the 9th to the 25th of Oftober, when
the mercury fell very confiderably, and tiie weather changed. The 26th was a very
bad day, having heavy rain, and in fonie places fnow and hail. On the 27lh the wind
was welt, the morning cloudy, and we had thunder and lightning in many places very
remote from Melvill.

" It was on the 27th, betwixt fix and feven in the morning, that the lightning broke
upon the houfe, attemied with loud peals of thunder. I could only meet with one man
who was in the fields at that time, who was fo much terrified that I could gather but
little IVom him. He laid the fiorm came from the N. E. towards the S. W., felt it
very hot, and a ftrong fulphureous fmell as the lightning pr.fled over him; faw it break,
as he imagined, with all the colours of the rainbow among the trees near the houfe,
filling all the country round with an extraordinary light.

" The houfe is covered with lead, and has four chimney-tops on each fide of the
cupola. Of the four on the eaft end of the houfe, .one of them, in which was one of
the kitchen vents, and where there only was fire at that time of the morning, was beat
down level with the lead roof: foine of the ftones were carried above one hundred feet
into the garden. The dates which covered the floping part of the roof on the weft end
were broke off for a confidcrable fpace. There was one breach appearing in the outfide
of the wall, which we were fiire pierced through it : this was in the attic ftory, towards
the weft end of the north front. A (lone was drove twenty feet from the breach upon
a level, broke a fplintcr off a ftone ftep of a back ftaircafe, and rebounded twelve feet.
That part of the lightning which produced the moft confiderable effetls came down the
chimney-head, which is the moft northerly of the four on the eaft of the cupola, where
there is a vent of another chimney in the kitchen. In its defcent it made feveral breaches
in that vent : it is plain that two proceeded from it, becaufe the fmoke from that chim-
ney proceeded from both ; one of them in the great ftaircafe, from which a ftone of
thirty-two pounds heavy weight was beat out, fo as to ftrike the marble floor at twenty-
fix feet diflance, meafured on a level, and after that rebounded on the adjoining walL
All th "Indows were entire in this ftaircafe; nor did any other effeds appear there.
The breach in this vent was in the oppofite diredinij, and pierced into a bed-

cham._i.. on the eaft fide, where was a noifomo, fulphureous fmell for a confiderable
time after, and a great heat : it made in the bed chamber a laru,ro breach in the plaifttr
cornice, and carried plaifter and lath quite acrofs the room. Many panes of glafs were
broke in both windows. I apprehend there niufl have boon anothor breach from the
lame vent with a fouth diredion, becaufe ot the wonderful rfled in the corner of the
great dining-room, where a finall fplinter of wood, about thirteen inches long, and not
heavier than two quills, was boat with (o much force againrt the iloor, as to leave a
mark equal to the depth and length of its own body. On takin;:: down the pannel be-
longing to this bit of niouldinj^, there was a crevice found, and this is very near oppo-
fite to the great breach in the ftaircafe, only about lour fevt liij;h"r, hut divided by the
folid mid wall of the houfe. In this dining-room many of the pidure-framcs were
fcorched, the paintings defaced and fpoilecl, but the canvas entire. Panes broke here
in all the windows ; and the window-curtains fo much finged as to blacken our hands,
on rubbing the fide next the windows. In the drawing-room at the eaft end of the
f;reat dining-room, the cornice plailter was broke in many places, and panes broke.
The bed-ch imbtr next it was already mentioned.

PENKANT's 6EC0NO TOUR IN SCOTLAND. ^6}

*' In the drawing-room on the weft end of this dining-room, the vviadows were en-
tire, the (hutters clofe, the doors locked, and no loot came down the chimney ; yet
there is a large deep fplinter tore out of a ftrong oak pannel. Before thepannel (taiids
a japaned cabinet, greatly tarniflied at one end. A pier glafs betwixt the windows, in
a glafs frame, has two breaches in the frame, and the reft entire. In the bed-chamber
next to this drawing-room nothing was obferved. In the corner of the drelfing-room
belonging to this apartment there ftood a barometer, which was broke in pieces : the
mercury difappeared, and we could find no remains of it. I muft mention in this place,
that his lordiliip would not allow a fervant to clean any part of this principal floor till I
ihould fee the efFefls of the lightning. In this drefling-roora the pannels were much
brake and (hattered ; and of thirty panes fifteen were broke.

" Below thele apartments, in the firft floor, is the bed-chamber where my lord and
lady lay, being the centre room in the weft front. Two panes of one of the windows
were broke, and the glafs found flicking on the curtains of the bed. Many pieces of
the mouldings of the pannels were broke and torn off". The mirror of a drelfing-glafs
broke to pieces, the quickfilver melted off", but the frame entire, and flood in its place i
it fmelt ol^'fulphur for fome hours after. Two fmall pictures beat from one fide of the
room to the other. A pier glafs betwixt the windows entire, but the pannel below it
beat out ; and a cheft of drawers before the pannel received no harm. The frames of
two pifturcs, which hung at the fide of the bed, were much broke ; and one of the
pannels fell out lately, when a fervant was dufling it.

" My lord's account of what he obferved is, that he was awaked whh the noife of a
great guft of wind ; that, upon looking up and drawing the curtain, he perceived the
lightning enter the room wuh great brightnefs, appearing of a bluifli colour. It made
him cover his eyes for a moment ; and on looking up, the light feemed to be abated,
and the bluifli colour had difappeared ; at the fame time he heard the thunder, which
made an uncommon noife ; he felt at the fame time the bed and the whole room (hake,
much in the fame manner one feels a horfe when he roufes, and was like to be choaked
with the fulphur. When the maid opened the door, (he was fcarcely able tb breathe
from the fulphureous fleams which filled the room ; happily the room was large, being
twenty-two feet fquare, and fixteen feet high.

*' In an adjoining bed-chamber a gilded fcreen was quite fpoiled, and though folded
up, the gilding is burnt off every leaf.

" In the parlour the gilding was melted off" the leather hangings nearly of this form\

and in the window dire£lly oppofite, at the diftance of twenty-four feet, in one of the
panes, there is a rent exadly of the fame form with the melted place of the gilding,
which does not reach to either end of the pane, about two inches long each line, the
length of the lines of the melted hangings being above two feet each. This room in
the Ibuth front.

" In the drawing-room on this ^or there were many effe£ts of the lightning. It
lias two windows to the fouth, and two to the eaft. A pannel was loofe, but kept from
falling by a half length pifture which hung before it, upon a nail in the wall above the
top of tho pannel : on removing the pidure the pannel came down, and a picfce of Itone
i!» the wall fell in, which probably had beat the pannel out of its place. On the outfide
of the houfe we difcovered two breaches oppofite to the pannel, but they did not feeni
to go deep. Several other pannels were beat out, and particularly one of nine feet high,
and three feet broad, was beat out fo to as to have the infide turned outward, and was

4 c a found

564

Pennant's seicono tour in scotLAKD.

found refting with the end upon a chair. Betwixt the two fouth windows ftood a pier
glafs, which has a piece taken out of it of a femicircular figure, nearly three inches long
and two inches deep, and no crack or flaw in the reft ot the glafs ; the gilded frame
much finged above and below : the piece was found broken, and one part had the
^uickfilver melted : above the glafs we perceived a hole in the pannel, as if burnt
through. There was only one pane broke in this room, which was in one of the eaft
windows. The hole in the pane was of the fize and (hape of a weaver's fliuttle. A
glafs (like the other) which Itood betwixt the two eail windows was broke in pieces :
the chimney-glafs not touched. The vent of this room goes to the chimney-top, which
was beat down.

*• In the adjoining bed-chamber, there were feveral pannels beat out, and fome parts
of them appeared to be burnt. A piece of (lone was found in the floor, which was
evidently beat from behind one of the pannels, from a large hard (tone, which appeared
to be much Ihattered.

** In the attic (lory is the billiard-room, above the two ead drawing-rooms : here the
floor is torn up in two places, and large fplinters ^re carried o(f from the middle of the

{>lanks. A pidlure was driven out of its frame towards the other fide of the room ; the
eather hangings torn, and the gilding melted in many places. Of forty panes in thiii
room, thirty-four were broke.

** Above the drelTing-room, where the barometer was broke, is an interfole, where
there is a confulerable breach in the infide of the wall, from which lime and rubbifli
were beat over the room. On a (helf feveral glafles were broke, as were fome bottles,
and a china bowl : four large bottles full of gunpowder on the fame flielf efcaped un->
touchtd.

•* In the under (lory, in the kitchen, one of the windows looking eaft was beat to
pieces : one of the iron bands beat to the oppofite wall ; the other was driven out of a
door, in a diredlion at right angles to the former ; the plaider below the v/indow torn
up ; and a lead cidem which itood near it received fome damage.

" No perfon in the houfe received any harm, except that my lord compbined much
of his eyes for fome days."

APPENDIX.-NuMB£R XVII.
Copy of King Malcolm's Charier to the Town of St. Andrew's.

MALCOLMUS, Rex Scottorum, omnibus fuis probis hominibus falutem. Sciatis
me concelfilTe hac Carta confirma(re Burgenfibus Epifcopi Sandli Andreae onmes liber-
lates et coufuetudines, quas mei Burgenles communes habent per totam terram meam,
et quibul'cunque portibus applicuerint. Qua de re volo et (irmiter fuper meum plena-
rium foris faftum prohibeo ne quis ab illis aliquid injufte exigat. Tellibus, Waltero
Canccllario, Hugone de Moriville, Waltero filio Alani, Waltero de Lyndyfay, Roberto
Aveael. Apud Sanflum Aadrcani,

APPENDIX.

rBNNAN'r's SECOND TOUR IN SCOYLANO.

S^S

APPENDIX.-NuMBBR XVIII.

THE ROMAN MEASURES, whereof Vefpafian's Congius was their Standard, com-
pared with the MEASURES ufed at prefent (anno 1775) in Annandale, where, as
in all other Parts of Scotland, the Stirling Jug, or Scots Pint, continues to be the
Standard.

Roman Meafures.

Englifh

Cubic

Inches.

Annandale Mearures.

Englidi

Cubic

Inches.

Difference.

3 Sextarius { Congius

lOJ'VcfB

I Scots Pint or Jiigg

io3-tV

oo',V« Cub. Inch.

6 Ditto 1 Congius

ac7'li

a Pints I Annandale Cap

206-2

•a.« D' D».

4 Congius 1 Urna

8j8-ii

4 Ditto Caps ; Flrlot

837-U

f°L D' D'.

8 Congius I Amphora

1656' 11

8 Ditto Caps i Firlot

i6;v»-i

,.OT 1)0 DO,

3 Modius 1 Amphora

- —

4 Firlots 1 Boll

6617I-'

- _ -

20 Amphora i Cultu*

33I30t'c-<5

20 Firlots 5 Bolls —

UoSQtVb

+«'-n^6 e-^'V Scots Gills.

JOHN LESSLIE.

APPENDIX.-NuMBER XIX.

Li^ of Scots Manufaduresyivhkh arc exported^ and ivcre made, ^c.

CORDAGE, ropes, and all forts of twine ; Leith, Greenock, Port Glafgow,

Earthern, Delft, and Stone wares ; PreRonpans, Glafgow.

Green Glafs bottles ; Alloa, Leith, &c.

Call and wrought iron work ; Carron.

The fined chinmey grates, made and polilhed at Edinburgh-
Cutlery ware of diSerent kinds.

Leather manufadturcs of all kinds ; Edinburgh, Kilmarnock, kc.

Linens plain, diaper, damalk, lawns and gauzes j printed, chequered, and ftriped linen,
&c. Edinburgh, Glafgow, Paifley, &c.

Stuft's of filk only, filk and cotton, filk and worded } filk gauzes, ribbons^ &c. at the
fame places.

Woollen manufaftures, viz. Edinburgh, Haddington, Muflelburgh ; friezes, ferges,
Stirling ; tartans, blankets, Stirling, Kilmarnock, &c. worlled, thread, filk dock-
ings, Aberdeen ; the Bned worded dockings from Shetland ;. docking pieces, Edin>
burgh, Stirling, Glalgow,^&c. blue bonnets, caps, &c. Kilmarnock ; carpets, carpet-^
ing, &c. Edinburgh, Kilmarnock, &c.

Painted cloths and callicoes ; ma/iy faftories near Edinburgh.

Copper, tin, and pewter manufattured ; printing-typep, greatly improvcd>

Cotton manufadures, fudians, &c.

Refined

566

pennant's skcond tour in SeOTI.ANO.

Refined fii'^ars ; Edinhurpli, Glafgow, Dundee, &c.

Ihts nearly equal to the Knglilh j Edinburgh.

Thread and yarn of nil kinds.

Thread laccj Dalkcitn, Hamilton, I.eith.

Paper both for printing and writing.

Candles.

Soap, hard and foft ; Lcitli.

SnutF.

Salt; Alloa, Kirkaldy, Predonpans, &c. Vitroil and fal-ammoniac.

Bricks and tylcs.

Conllderable breweries for exportation at Edinburgh and Glafgow.

Among the arts not cflontially neccllary for human life may be reckoned the curious
manufa£lures of loathrrn fnulF-boxes. The artifts Mulfrs. Wilfon and Clerk have ex-
tended it even to niufical inllrumtnts, and made a violin entirely of leather, which, I
hear, gives as melodious a found as the btfl: of wood : and that they have lately made a
German flute of the fame materials. Paper has bt-cn lately made of the v/teds taken
out of Duddingilon Loch ; I do not know with what fuccefs. Perhaps this was at-
tempted after the example of the Germans, who have of late made a fort of nettle, and
other vegetables.

Wsollen Manufu^urc.

WOOLLEN mamifaiJlures are mentioned in 1424, in the fecond parliament of
James L where it is difcouraged by a tax. " Item, It is ordained, that of ilk poundcs
worth of woollen claith had out of the reahne, the King fall have of the out-haver for
cuflom twa fhillinges."

After this, feveral regulations were prefcribed by Icgiflature, and the wool prohibited
from being fent into England. A law of James 11. in 1457, (perhaps for the purpofe
of peopling the boroughs, and civilizing his people, by drawing them out of the woods
into civil fociety) prohibits any but burgeffes to buy wool, " t<i lit, nor mak claith, nor
cut claith." Yet, not to leave the majority of his people naked, adds, " liot it is to be
otherwife faid, gif ane man hes woU of his awin flieip."

James VI. who (notwithftanding fome of us Englifh may think otherwife) had fre-
quent intervals of wifdom, prohibited the wearing of any cloth in Scotland but what
was the manufacture of the country.

I imagine, that in defiance of all the laws againft fmuggling of wool out of the king-
dom, it was carried to Flanders. Old Hackluyt mentions it among the few exports of
Scotland.

Moreover of Srotland the commodities
Are filled, liidis, and of wool! the flcefe,
And all thile ir.iiil pafl'e by ii9 away
Into Fhnvicrs liy Eii'^Iiind, Tooth to fav.
And all her -.KDlle w;is draped for tn fell
In the townes of Poperinge and UcU •.

At length a woollen manufafture arofe in fome degree. There was an exportation
of it into Holland till 1720: it was a coarfo kind, fuch as is made in the Highlands:
much of it was fold to Glafgow, and fent into America, for blankets for the Indians.

Holiinftied mentions thcfc towns, p. 614.

pennant's second tour in SCOTLAND.

5^7

h is in Scotland a clothing for the country people, and is worth about lod. or izd. a
ayrd. The only broad cloth worth mentioning is that made at Paul's work in £din*
burgh, which ia brought to great perfcflion.

Linen Manufaflure.

I CANNOT afcertain the time when the linen manufaftures arore. There could not
be a great call for the commodity, a century and a half ago, when people of fafhion
fcarcely changed their (hirts above once the week in England. But, thanks to the lux«
ury, or rather the neatnefs of the times, this article has become a mod national advan-
tage. The following table will fliew the flourifliing ftate of it in this kingdom ; and its
great advance in forty-three years. At the foot of it is an account of the imports of
flax into England and Scotland : and the exports of coal from the lad*

l^»!

ACCOMPT of LINEN CLDTH llamprd in SCOTLAND.

FroiT

lit Nov. 1727

tn ilh Not. 17

28.

From ift.No

V. 1770 to 1

ft.

Nov. 1771.

I'ricc pir

Crice per

Shires.

Yirdt.

Value.

Yard »t ;.

Yardi.

Value.

Yard at «

Medium.

Ahffdecn

4 ".040 J

1. 539 0

«tV

198,177

14,716

StV

Ayr - - .

26,699^

2,086 17

- -

>93.4'J

10,53°

Arjrylc - .

4.1*

3« 8

- -

Banff - .

101,618

3,810 13

- -

54.3^5

3.13*

I '.a

Rrrwicic

9.»93

36J 16

- -

56.129

5.645

7-i*

Dutr . ■

• •

. •

Caitlinef*

. .

...

. .

Clackmanniin

2,8yj

340 10

- -

.•

Cniniarly

. .

■

. .

5.591

187

Humharton

66,027

2.35" 8

- -

173.892

ii,6t8

»7

Dumfries

3,002

'5» '3

- .

43.«<57

2. '34

Ilia

Kdinhiiri'h

747

198 17

- -

214.834

19,487

■ 3

9*r

KlKin '. .

>.»54

47 >»

- -

6j,6;6

2.344

Fife - .

3<5'.9«S'

30,175 10

- -

1,885,622

72,138

9'-

''orfar . -

i9J.»*«i

«4.7n ii

c-r

- .

5,70o,S5ii

147,456

H.iil(linc;ton

.^63

'8 J

- .

"n.^'S^-

10,838

ill

Iiivernefa

10,696

401 2

- -

223,-98

6,425

64 ■>

Kincardine

a7,S85j

•.045 14

. . .

118,628

4.030

i\iiirofii - •

Si^'^ii

2,yc6 19

. . 1

79.450

2.852

•i

81.

Kirkcudbright

...

- -

1 ,303

114

94-

L^iiicrk . .

*it^f>sK

9,96s 0

- -

2,019,782

172.H7

iJiilitligow

^355

476 9

- -

3,104

ibB

Nairne - -

...

- -

14.734

853

I -I a

()ii<ii(.'yr

- -

• -

- -

3i,oK8

».257

94-

iVi-!)Itfi - .

. .

•

I'crll. . .

477.7Mt

»J.9?5 0

44-

. •

1.6-4,717

66,153

Rciitrew

«5.P7l

6,8.52 14

- - 1

^M>551

70,177

liofs - .

10,844

402 6

- -

10,145

410

Roxburgh -

ij.^^n

914 16

84-

- -

ssfi^s

3.379

«li

'Wlki.k - -

«.732t

436 II

- -

Stirling

a.54«:

191 2

- -

47.956

2,278

»5

II*-

inthtilancl -

■ - ■>

•

W'igton

Total

2,183,978

3 7

- -

16,996

69.

0
3

5
5i

9t\

103,312 9

0 II,T

13,672,548!

632,^89

■'■•&

rSNNAMT'l IBCOMO TOUR IN SCOTLAND.

An ACCOUNT of the TOTAL QUANTITIES of FLAX, HEMP, FLAX-SEED, and
LINEN YARN, imported in EneUnd and Scotland, from 5tli January 1764 to 5th Ditto 177a t
together with the TOTAL QIIANTITIES of CO AL8 exported from Scotland to Foreign Parta.
from 3th January 1765 to 5tnjanuarjr 1771.

Total of Flax &c. imported 1
in England J

Total of Flaxt &c. imported I
in Scotland. f

From 5th January 1764 to 5tU January 1772.

Flax Rough.

CM-ta. qri. lb.
5JJ.749 3 "

Hemp Rough.

Cwti. qri. lb,
1,639,136 t a a

i»a,9So 3 4

Lin feed

DulhcU.
•.7»».465 i

455. »43 I

Yarn Lintn
Raw.

lb.

j3,oo6,oay

954.97* i

Total of Coali exported from Scotland

From 5th January 1765 to jth January 1771.

Great Coali.

Tons. Cwti. qrt.
86,050 14 o

Small Coals.

Childeri. Dufli.
'7»797 7 i

I'itforan

Coals,

Duty

free.

Chaldcrs.
4681

APPENDIX.— Number XX.

Itinerary.

ARDMADY, to Port Sonnadian,

Miles.
18

loveraray,

Cladich,

Tiendrum,

Killin,

Taymouthy

Logierait,

Blair,

Dunkcid,

Delvin,

Perth,

Dupplin,

Innerpefiery,

Miles.

Crief by Fintillick,

Comerie,

To Loch-Earn and 3 imiU s along its

fide,
Back to Fintillick,
Caftle-Drummond,
Kaymes Caftle,
Ardoch,

By Tullibardine to Dupplin,
Tibbimoor, Huntingtower, and again

to Dupplin, 10

Perth, 5

I Enrol, ,0

4 Dundee,

9
18

MNNANT'i SfCOND TOUR IM SCOTLAND.

5^9

Dundee,

Pannniit',

Abcrhiotliic,

Ferridcn. Montrofe,

Nortli-UritlRo,

Lawrence Kirk,

Stontliive,

Urie,

I'ettercairn,

Cattcr-thuH,

Brechin,

('arcfton,

Forfar,

Glamcs,

Belmont,

Dunfinane,

Perth,

Dupplin by the Sterling road,

Earn Bridge,

Abemethy,

Falkland,

Melville,

St. Andrews,

Leven,

Carham,

Palinlburne,

Woolcr,

Woolcr-haugh-head,

Chillingham cadle,

Percy's Crofs,

"Wittingham,

Half-way houfe,

Rothbury,

Cambo

Hexham,

Corbridge,

NewcaflTe,

Durham,

BiOiop Aukland,

Milei.

Mile..

Kirkaldie,

By Kinghorn to Aberdour,

Dumferlinc,

Limekilns near Broomhall,

CulrDls,

Clackmannan,

Alloa,

Sterling,

Falkirk,

Linlithgow,

- 3

Kirklifton,

Edinburgh,

Hawthornden, Roflin, and back to

Edinburgh,

Dalkeith, and again to Edinburgh,

»4

Cranfton,

Crichton and Borthwick caftle, and

back to Crandon,

Blackfliields,

Lauder,

Gala-ihields,

Melros,

14
«5

Dryburgh,
Kelfo,

3
10

ENGLAND.

Miles.

Milei

Pierce Bridge,

Richmond,

Wenfley,

Kettlewell,

Skipton,

Keighly,

Haifax,

Rochdale,

Alkrington,

Manchefter, ^

Barton bridge,

Warrington,

»7

Cheder,

»5

Downing,

VOL. III.

ACCOUNT

■Mi

( 570 )

JCCOUNT OF THE DRO SACKS.
[From Garmit'4 Tour.]

AUGUST II. About fevcn o'clock in tlie morning wc fet out from Callander,
along the banks ot the Teatb, and pafll-d througli the fmall village of Kihnahng ;
on our right we fawthe houfc ofLency,the refidencc of John Hamilton Buchanan, Klq.
proprietor of that village, plcafantly fituated on an eminence ; here we croflTed the
Tcaiii, and, Ikirting the fouthern limb of Benledi, a high mountain on our right, wc
came to Lochvanachoir •, out of which the Teaih runs, though its origin is properly
in Loch Catherine.

Lochvanachoir is nearly four miles in length, and in general about one in breadth }
Its banks arc very pleafant, covered with wood, and floping gently into the water.

Soon after leaving this lake wc came to another, but fmaller, called t Lochachray.
The length of this lake is about a mile and a half, and its breadth fcarcc more than
half a mile, but its banks are very pleafant, being covered with wood. The fccnery
at the upper part is remarkably bold and ftriking.

It was here that we had the fird view of the Trofichs t, which are rough, rugged
and uneven hills ; beyond thcfcisfeen the rugged mountain Benvenu, which differs ir
nothing from the Trofachs, except in magnitude. As foon as we had parted Locha
chray, wc entered the Trofachs by a road winding among them. The fccnery here
is exceedingly wild and romantic ; rugged rocks of every (hapc furround the road,
and in many places overhang it j thcfe rocks are almoft covered with heath, and orna-
mented to the very lop with weeping birch. This part of the road piefents fcencry
which is wild and horrid ; it feemed to be Glencoc in miniature ; but the mountains,
though vaftly Imallcr, are more rugged, and being covered with heath and birch wood,
have a diflcrent character.

I (hall not enter into a farther defcription of the Trofachs, for it is impoffible by words
to convey any idea of the kind of fccnery. Thefe hills had been dcicribed to mc by
fevcral perfons who had vifitcd this place, and I had read fome defcriptions of them,
but could form no didant idea of what 1 w?s to fee : as I have no pretenfions to fu-
perior powers of this kind, 1 fhall leave the tafk to Mr. Watts, whofe pencil will
give an exnct rcprcfentation of fome part of the fccnery.

The Trofachs are compofed ot argilaceous (liillus, ftratified, and imbedded here and
there with veins of quartz. The flrata are, in fome inflanccs, nearly perpendicular to
the horizon, and in all dip very much, a proof that fome convulfions or powerful caufes
have removed thcfe lumpifh hills from their original fituation. Some fuppofe them to
have been torn from the fides of the adjacent mountains, but there are, I think, no
appearances which warrant this conclufion.

After we had followed the winding road which may be feen in the enc;raving, among
thefe ftrange mafll-s, for about three quarters of a mile, we had a fight of the lower
part of Loch Catherine, winding its way among the Trofachs, fomt- of which appear
above its bvel furface in the form of bold and rugged iflands and proiiiontoric?. The
fcencry about this lake is uncommonly fublime, particularly when wc had gone about

• Locli-van-3-clioir (ignifici the lake of the white or fair valley.

f Loeliacray is coiitrai^ed frcim Loch-a-chravy, which iiirnilks the Like of the ficUl i)f devotion. Achray
ii the name of a Tarm on its banks, where, it is believed, the Druidt had a place of woiHiip, thcic being I'ume
remains of one of tlicir temples. Stat. Accotint.

X Trofacks or Daficks, in the Celtic, fiynifiea roiigli or uneven ground*,

13 a mile

OARNr.T'fi ACCOUNT Ot TUP. DR0SACK9. 571

n mile up the ncrtlicrn bank, vvlinv the ro:iil has Ix-cti tuaih! with ^;ront labour, in
many parts out oi the lolid rock, t)iit whi -h is impaHal'lo for a carriage, and c;m
Icarccly be travilU-d over on lioikbad: vitii l"at".."ty. n^.-rc, turning back our (jyos to-
wards the 'IVoraelis, tlie vi^'W was pariiciil.iily {;raiiJ ; rocky illancls rife boldly out of
llu- lakt.', atul in tlk' back f^rouiil is Ii. iivi imi', rcarinj; ils rui,'^n«d rmntnit far ahova
the U'hoic, having its lower pail clothed wiih wood. 'I'he vijw up the lake to the
wefUvard is likewil'* very fine ; tli^' cvpanle ol watir Icinij bounded by Alpine n)oun«
tains, loltcned by dlilance, and appcaiinjr of a fine daik blue.

Loch Catlurine is about ton milcj in lcnj];th, but not mucli more than one in breadth;
and if it polllls not the beauty of ollar lakes which we had fecn, its fcencry is much
more grand ami romantic.

Near the foot of the lake, the Honourable Mrs. Drummond of Perth lias c're£lcd
fome huts of wicker work, lor ihc convenience of llranfjors who vifit this wild fcenery ;
h're they can partakt: of the reiicllinuiits which they bring from Clallandor, and (belter
themfclves from a llorm.

The wood, which abounds on the bank : of Loch Catherine, is made iqto charcoal ;
a certain portion being cut down annually, and when burnt, it is brought down to the
foot of the lake in boats, from whence it is conveyed in carts to the Carroa foundcry.
The Circea Alpina, or mountain enchanter's night-lhade, grows in great abundance
on the banks of this lake ; the pebbles found on the fhore are chiefly argilaceous and
micaceous fliifhis, with fome quartz.

Lochvanachoir abounds both with lidmon and trout, and Lochavray with pike, which
prevents almoll any other (ifli from living in its vicinity. In Loch Catherine are trout
and char, but the falmon and pike are prevented from entering this lake by a fall at
its mouth.

Thefe three lakes arc only cxpanfions of the beautiful river Teath, which may be
faid to originate in Loch Catherine, or more properly in the numerous (treams that
pour into this lake in catarads from its Ileep and rugged banks.

After having feen whatever was remarkable in the neighbourhood of Loch Cathe-
rine, we returned by the fame road to Callander j and, as it was our wifli to make the
bell of our way to Glafgow, after dinner we took the crofs road to Fintry, fixteea
miles diftant. About fix miles from Callander, we came to the Loch of Monteath, a
bcatiful little lake almoft five miles in circumference, adorned with two fmaller fylvan
ifiands. On the larger are the ruins of a monallery, and on the fmaller the remains
of an ancient feat of the once-powcrful Earls of Monteith, whofe chief refidence, as has
been before obferved, was Doune CalUe.

This lake abounds with perch and pike, which lad are very large. A curious me-
thod of catching this fifli ufed to b. praclifed : on the iflands a number of geefe were
collected by the fanners, who occupied the furrounding bunks of the lake. After
baited lines of two or three feet in length had been tied to the legs of t'l fe geefe,
they were driven into the water. Steering naturally homeward in difFereni dirediions,
the bait was foon fwallowed. A violent and often tedious ilruggle cnfued ; in which,
however, the geefe at length prevailed, though they were frequently much cxhaufted
before they reached the fliore. This method of catching pike is not now ufed, but
there are fome old perfons who remember to have feen Jt, and who were attive pro-
moters of this amufemcnt *.

i''L-

i
if

' Garnet's Tour through the Highlands, &c, of Scotland. 4to. Vol. >i. pnge 172.

4 u a ^ D.ESCRIPTION

;fii

], .

i 57^ )

A DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

Br AJ. MARTIN, Gent. *

TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE GEORGE OF DENMARK,

tOKU HIGH ADMIKAL OF EKOLAND AND IRELAND, AND OF ALI HER MAJBSTY's PLANTATION.'.,
AND OEN ; RALISSIMO OF ALU H K 11 MAJKSTv's FORCES, tTC.

MAY IT PLEASE YOUR ROYAL HIGHNESS,

AMONGST the numrious crowd of congratulating addreflers, the Iflanders de-
fcribed in the following fheets prefume to approach your Royal Perfon : they can now,
•without fufpicion of infidelity to the Queen of England, pay their duty to a Danilh
Prince, to whofe predeceflbrs all of them formerly belonged.

Th(-y can boall that they are honoured with the fepulchres of eight kings of Nor-
way, who at {hU day, with forty-eight kings of Scotland, and four of Ireland, lie en-
tomljcd in the ifland of Jona ; a place famed then fer fome peculiar faniflity.

They prefutne that it is owing to their great diftance from the imperial feat, rather
than their want of native worth, that their iflands have been fo littled regarded ; which by
improvement might render a confiderable acceflion of (trength and riches to the crown,
as appears by a fcheme annexed to the following treatife. They have fu'ered hitherto
under the want of a powerful and aft'ciSlionate patron ; Providence feems to have given
them a natural claim to your Royal Highnefs. And, though it be almoft prefumption
for fo finful a nation to hope for fo great a blefllng, they do humbly join their prayers
to God, that the protedion which they hope for from two Princes of fo much native
worth and goodnefs, might be continued in your royal pofterity to all generations.
So prays, may it pleafe your Royal Highnefs,

Your Highnefs's mod humble

and mod obedient fervant;

M. MARTIN.

THE PREFACE.

THE Weftern Iflands of Scotland, which make the fubjcft of the following book,
were called by the ancient geographers iEbuda-, and Hebrides ; but they knew fo little
of them, that they neither agreed in their name nor number. Perhaps it is peculiar
to thofe ifles, that they have never been defcribed till now by any man that was a na-
tive of the country, or had travelled them. They were indeed touched by Boethius,
Biihop Lefly, Buchanan, and Johndon, in their Hidories of Scotland, but none of
thole authors were ever there in perfon ; fo that what they wrote concerning them was
upon ti uit from others. Buchanan, it is true, had his information from Donald Monro,
who had been in many of them ; and therefore his account is the bed that has hitherto
appeared, but it mud be owned that it is very imperfeft : that great man defigncd the
hid(Ty, and not the geography of his country, and therefore in him it was pardonable.
Behdes, fince his time, there is a great change in the humour of the world, and by
conlt quence in the way of writing. Natural am! experimental philofophy has been
mucli impnivt'd fince his days ; and therefore defcriptions of countries, without the
natural hidory ot them, arc now judly reckoned to be defei^ive.

From the fecund edition, London, 1716, 8vo.

This

martin's description of the western islands.

573

This I had a particular regard to in the following defcription, rnd Jhave every where
tiiken notice of the nature of the climate and foil, of the produce of the places by fca
and land, and of the remarkable cures performed by the natives merely by the ufe
of fmiples ; and thit in fuch variety as, I hope, will make amends for what defeats may
be found in my ftyle and way of vv riting : for there is a wantonnefs in language as well
as in other things, to which my countrymen of the ifles are as much ftrangcrs, as to
other exceffes which are too frequent in many parts of Europe. We ftudy tilings there
more than words, though thofe that underlland our native language mult own, that
we have enough of the latter to inform the judgment, and work upon the affeiSlions in
as pathetic a manner as any other language whatever. But I go on to my fubjcil:.

The iflevS here defcribed are but little known or confidered, nu=: only by ftrangers, but
even by thofe under the fame government and climate.

The modern itch after the knowledge of foreign places is fo prevalent, that the gene-
rality of mankind beltow little thought or time upon the place of their nativity. It is
become cuftomary in thofe of quality to travel young into foreign countries, whilft they
are alifolute ftrangers at home ; and many of them when they retur;" ire only loaded
with fuperficial knowledge, as the bare names of famous libraries, llatt / edifices, fine
ftatues, curious paintings, late falhions, new diihes, new tunes, new ciaaces, painted
beauties, and the like.

The places here mentioned afford no fuch entertainment ; the inhabitants in general
prefer conveniency to ornament both in their houfes and apparel, and they rather fatisfy
than opprefs nature in their way of eating and drinking j and not a few among them
have a naturalbeauty, which excels anv that has been drawn by the fineft Apelles.

The land and the fea that encompaiTes it produce many things ufeful and curious in
their kind, feveral of which have not hitherto been mentioned by the learned. This
may afford the theorift fubjed of contemplation, fince every plant of the field, every fibre
of each plant, and the leaft particle of the fmalleft infeft, carries with it the imprefs of
its Maker ; and, if rightly confidered, may read us le£lures of divinity and morals.

The inhabitants of thefe iilands do for the moft part labour under the want of know-
ledge of letters, and other ufeful arts and fciences ; notwithftanding which defeft, they
feem to be better verfed in the book of nature than many that have greater op-
portunities of improvement. This will appear plain and evident to the judicious reader,
\ pon a view of the fuccefsful pradlice of the iflandersin the prefervation of their health,
above what the generality of mankind enjoys : and this is performed merely by tem-
perance and the prudent ufe of fimples ; which, as we are allured by repeated experi-
ments, fail not to remove the moft ftubborn diftempers, where the bert prepared medi-
cines have frequently no fuccefs. This I relate not only from the authority of many of
the inhabitants, who are perfons of great integrity, but likewife from my own particular
obfervation. And thus with Celfus, they firft make experiments, and afterwards pro-
ceed to reafon upon the effe6ts.

Human induftry has of late advanced ufeful and experimental philofophy very much ;
women and illiterate perfons have in fome meafure contributed to it, by the difcovery
of fome ufeful cures. The field of nature is large, and much of it wants ftill to be
cultivated by an ingenious and difcreet application ; and the curious, by their obferva-
tions, might daily make further advances in the hiftory of nature.

Self-prefervation is natural to every living creature : and thus we fee the feveral ani-
mals of the fea and the land lb careful of themfelves, as to obferve nicely what is agree-
able, and what is hurtful to them j and accordingly they chufe the one, and rejed the
other.

Th«

|.v-

•i

■„■ .1

574

martin's DliSCRlPTtON OP THE

The luiiLandmnn and the fidier couU! expert but Httle *'■ v?s without obfcrvation \n
their levcral employments; and it is by oblervation th.ii "' iiyfician commonly judges
of the condition of h.is patient. A man of obi'ervation pn jj often a phyfician to hiin-
felf ; for it was by this that our anceltors prefer. cd tiieir h'.'ulth till a good old age, and
tliat mankind laid up that ilock of natural knowledge of which they arc now poflefl'ed.

Ihc wife Solomon did not think it beneath him to write of the meuneft plant, as well
as of the talleft cedar. Hippocrates was at the pains and charge to travel foreign
countries, with a defign to learn the virtues of plants, roots, &c. I have in my little
travels endeavoured, among other things, in fome meafure to imitate fo great a pattern :
and if I had been lb happy as to oblige the republic of learning with any thing that is-
ufeful, I have my defign. 1 hold it enough for me to furnilh my obfervations, without
accounting for the reafon and way that thofe iimplcs produce them : this 1 leave to the
learned in that faculty; and if they would oblige thi; world with fuch theorems from
thefe and the like experiments, as might ferve for rules upon occalions of this nature,
it would be of great advantage to the public.

As for the improvement of the ifles in general, it depends upon the government of
Scotland, to give encouragement for it to fuch public-fpirited perfons or focieties as are
w illing to lay out their endeavours that way : and how largo a field they have to work
upon will appear by taking a furvey of each, and of the method of improvement that I
have hereunto fubjoined.

There is fuch an account given here of the fecond fight, as the nature of the thing
will bear. This has always been reckoned fufficient among the unbialfed part of man-
kind ; but for thofe that will noli be fatisfied, they ought to oblige us with a new fcheme,
by w hich we may judge of matters of faft.

There are feveral inftances of heathenifm and pagan fuperftition among the inhabi-
tants of the iflands related here ; but I would not have the reader to think thofe prac-
tices are chargogble upon the generality of the prefent inhabitants, fince only a few of
the oldeft and mod ignorant of the vulgar are guilty of them. Thefe praftices are only
to be found where the reformed religion has not prevailed ; for it is to the progrefs of
that alcne that the banilhment of evil fpirits, as we!l as of evil cufloms, is owing, when
all other methods proved ineffcftual. And for the iflanders in general, I may truly fay,
that in religion and virtue they excel many thoufands oi others, who have greater advan-
tages of daily improvement.

A DESCRIPTION, fee

TUF. ifland of Lewis is fo called from Lcog, which in the Irifli language fignifies water,
lying on the lurfacc of the ground ; which is very proper to this iiland, becaufe of
ihe great number of frefli-watcr lakes that abound in it. 1 he ifle of Lewis is by all
Itrangcrs and feafaring men accounted the outmolt tradt of iflands lying to the north- weft
of Scotland. It is divided by feveral narrow channels, and didinguilhed by feveral pro-
prictore as well as by feveral names : by the iflanders it is commonly called the Long
Iiland, being from fouth to north one hundred miles in length, and from eafl: to weft
from three to fourteen in breadth. It lies in the (hire of Roll;, and made part of the
dioccie of the ifles.

The ifle of Lewis, properly and ftriftly fo called, is thirty-fix miles in length, viz,
from the north point of Bowling-head to the fouth point of Iluflincfs in Harries ; and

VTESTERN IStAKDS OP SCOTLAND. ^y^

in feme places it is ten, and in others twelve miles in breadth. The air is temperately
cold and moifl:, and for a corrective the natives ufe a dofe of trcftarig, or ufquebaugh.
This idand is for the moft part healthy, cfpccially in the middle from fouth to north.
It is arable on the weft fide for about fixteen miles on the coaft ; it is likewife plain and
arable in fcveral places on the eaft. The foil is generally fandy, excepting the heaths,
which in fotne places are black, and in others a fine red clay, as appears by the many
veficls made of it by their women ; fome for boiling meat, and others for preferving
their ale, for which they are much better than barrels of wood.

This ifland was reputed very fruitful in corn, until the late years of fcarcity and bad
feafors. The corn fown here is barley, oats, and rye ; and they have alfo flax and
hemp. The befl increafe is commonly from the ground manured with fca-ware : they
fatten it alfo with foot j but it is obferved that the bread made of corn growing in the
ground fo fattened, occafions the jaundice to thofe that eat it. They obferve likewife
that corn produced in ground which was never tilled before, occafions feveral diforders
in thofe who eat the bread, or drink the ale made of that corn ; fuch as the head-ach
and vomhing.

The natives are very induftrious, and undergo a great fatigue by digging the ground
with fpades, and in moft places they turn the ground fo digged upfidc down, and cover it
with fea-ware ; and in this manner there are about five hundred people employed daily
for fome months. This way of labouring is by them called Timiy, and certainly pro*
duces a greater ificreafe than digging or plowing otherwife. They have little harrows
with wooden teeth in the firft and lecond rows, which break the ground ; and in the
third row they have rough heath, which fmooths it. This light harrow is drawn by a
man having a ftrong rope of horfe-hair acrofs his breaft.

Their plenty of corn was fuch, as difpofed the natives to brew feveral forts of liquor,
as common ufquebaugh, another called treftarig, ideji^ aqua-vitae, three times diftilled,
which is ftrong and hot ; a third fort is four times diftilled, and this by the natives is
called ufquebaugh-baul, id eji, ufquebaugh, which at firft tafte afFefts all the members
of tlie body : two fpoonfuls of this laft liquor is a fufticient dofe ; and if any man ex-
ceed this, it would prtfently ftop his breath, and endanger his life. The treftarig and
ufquebaugh-baul are both made of oats.

There are feveral convenient bays and harbours in this ifland. Loch-Grace and Loch-
tua, lying north-weft, arc not to be reckoned fuch, though veflels are forced in there
fomctimcs by ftorni. Loch-Stornvay lies on the eaft fide in the middle of the ifland,
and is eighteen miles diredtly fouth from the northernmoft point of the fame : it is a
harbour well known by fcamen. There are feveral places for anchorage about half a
league on the fouth of this co;tft. About feven miles fouthward there is a good h?.r-
bour, called the Birkin Iflcs : within the bay called Loch-Colmkill, three miles further
fouth, lies Loch-Erifort, which hath an anchoring-place on the fouth and north : about
five miles fouth lies Lochfca-fort, having two vifible rocks in the entry ; the beft har-
bour is on the foutli fido.

About twenty-four miles fouth- weft lies Loch-Carlvay, a very capacious, though un-
known harbour, being never frequented by any veflels ; though the natives afl"urc me
that it is in all refpeds a convenient harbour for fhips of the firft rate. The beft en-
trance looks north and north-welt, but there is another from the weft. On the fouth
fide of the ifland Berncra there are fniall iilands without the entrance, which contribute
much to the fecurity of the harbour, by breaking the winds and feas that conic from
the great ocean. Four miles to the fouth on this coaft is Loch-Rogue, which runs in
among the mountains. All the coafts and bays above-mentioned dc in fair weather

abound

i'a

li.
f

■■\n

,i'

F.l

\\ ■

«>

Sy6 martin's description of the

abound with cod, ling, herring, and all other forts of fiflica taken in the weflem
iflands.

Cod and ling are of a very 'arge fize, and very plentiful near Loch-Carlvay ; but tlie
vhales very much interrupt the fifhing in this place. There is one fort of whale re-
markable for its greatnefs, which the fifliermen diftinguifli from all others by the name
of the Gallan-whale, becaufe ihey never fee it but at the promontory of that name. I
vas told by the natives, that about fifteen years ago this great whale overturned a
fifheV's boat, and devoured three of the crew ; the fourth man was faved by another
boat which happened to be near, and faw this accident. There are many whales, of
diHcrent fizes, that frequent the herring-bays on the eafl fide : the natives employ many
boats together in purfuit of the whales, chacing them up into the bays till they wound
one of them mortally, and then it runs afliore ; and they fay that all the reft commonly
follow tlic track of its blood, and run themfelves alfo on (hore in like manner, by which
means many of them are killed. About five years ago there were fifty young whales
killed in this manner, and moft of them eaten by the common people, who by experi-
ence find them to be very nourifhing food. This I have been aflurcd of by feveral per-
fons, but particularly by fome poor meagre people, who became plump and lufty by
this food in the fpace of a week : they call it fea-pork, for fo it fignifies in their lan-
guage. The bigger whales are more purgative than thefe leflcr ones, but the latter are
better for nouriinnient.

The bays afford plenty of fliell-filh, as clams, oyfters, cockles, mufcles, limpets, wilks,
fpout-fifh } of which laft there is fuch a prodigious quantity caft up out of the land of
Loch-tua, that their noifome fmell infefts the air, and makes it very unhealthful to the
inhabitants, who are not able to confume them, by eating or fattening their ground with
them ; and this they fay happens moft commonly once in feven years.

The bays and coafts of this ifland afford great quantity of fmall coral, not exceeding
fix inches in length, and about the bignefs of a goofe's quill. This abounds moft in
Loch-fea-fort, and there is coraline likewife on this coaft.

There are a great many frefh-water lakes in this ifland, which abound with trouts
and eels. The common bait ufed for catching them is earthworms, but a handful of
parboiled nuifclcs thrown into the water attracts the trouts and eels to the place : the
tittelV time for catching them is when the wind blows from the fouth-woft. There are
feveral rivers on each fide this illand which afford falmons, as alfo black mufcles, in
which many times pearl is found.

The natives in the village Barvas retain ?n ancient ciiftom of fending a man very early
to crofs Barvas river every firit day of May, to prevent any females crofling it firft ;
for that they fay would hinder the falmon from coming into the river all the year round :
they pretend to have Icarnc d this from a foreign failo'r, who was fliipwrccked upon that
coall a long time ago. Thisobfervation they maintain to be true from experience.

There are feveral fprings and fountains of curious effects ; fuch as that of Loch-
Carlvay, that never whitens linen, which hiith often been tried by the inhabitants. The
well at St. Cowften's church never boils any kind of meat, though it be kept on fire a
whole day. St. Andrew's well, in the village Shadar, is by the vulgar natives made a
teft to know if a fick pcrfon will die of the diftemper he labours undtr. They fend
one wiih a wooden difli to bring fome of the water to the patient, and if the difh which
is then laid fofily upon the furface of the water turn round (un-ways, thoy conclude that
the patient will recover of that diftemper; but if otherwife, that he will die.

There are many" caves upon the coaft of this ifland, in which great numbers of otters

and Icals do lie

there be uUu many land and fea-lbwls that build and hatch in them.
1 1 . The

WESTERN ISLAKDS OF SCOTLAND. 577

The cave in Loch-Grace hath feveral pieces of a hard fubftance in the bottom, which
dilUl from the top of it. There are feveral natural and artificial forts in the coaft of
this ifland, which are called Dun, iVoin the Irifli word da'nii which fignifies a fort. The
natural forts here are Dunowlc, Dun-coradil, Dun-eiften.

Ihe caftle at Stornvay village was deftroyed by the Englifh garrifon kept there by
Oliver Cromwell. Some few miles to the north of Brago there is a fort compofed of
large floncs ; it is of a round form, made fapervvife towards the top, and is three ftories
high : the widl is double, and hath feveral doors and flairs, fo that one may go round
within the wall. There are fome cairns or heaps of ftones gathered together on heaths,
and fome of them at a great diftance from any ground that aftbrds ftones ; fuch as
Cairnwarp near Mournagh-hill, &c. Thefe artificial forts are likewife built upon
heaths at a confiderable diftance alfo from ftony ground. The thrufhel ftone in the
parifli of Barvas is above twenty feet high, and almoft as much in breadth. There are
three ereded ftones upon the north fide of Loch-Carlvay, about twelve feet high each.
Several other ftones are to be fcen here in remote places, and fome of them ftanding on,
one end. Some of the ignorant vulgar fay, they were men by iiichantment turned into
lloncs; and others fay they are monuments of perfons of note killed in battle.

The moft remarkable ftones for number, bignefs and order, that fell under my ob-
fervation, were at the village of Claflernifs *, where there are thirty-nine ftones fet up
fix or feven feet hight, and two feet in breadth each : they are placed in form of an
avenue, the breadth of which is eight feet, and the diftance between each ftone fix ; and
there is a ftone fet up in the entrance of this avenue : at the fouth end there is joined
to this range of ftone a circle of twelve ftones of equal diftance and height with the
other thirty-nine. There is one fet up in the centre of this circle, which is thirteen
feet high, and ftiaped like the rudder of a ftiip : without this circle there are four ftones
ftanding to the weft, at the fame diftance with the ftones in the circle ; and there are
four ftones fet up in the fame manner at the fouth and eaft fides. I enquired of the
inhabitants what tradition they had from their anceftors concerning thefe ftones ; and
they told me, it was a place appointed for worfliip in the time of heathenifm, and that
the chief druid or prieft ftoodnear the big ftone in the centre, from whence he addreffed
himfelfto the people that furrounded him.

Upon the fame coaft alfo there is a circle of high ftones ftanding on one end, about
a quarter of a mile's diftance from thofe above mentioned.

The ftiore in Egginefis abounds with many little fmooth ftones prettily variegated with
all forts of colours ; they are of a round form, which is probably occafioned by the
tofling of the fea, which in thofe parts is very violent.

The cattle produced here are cows, horfes, fheep, goats, hogs. Thefe cows are
little, but very fruitful, and their beef very fweet and tender. The horfes are confide-
rably lefs here than on the oppofite continent, yet they plow and harrow as well as
bigger horfes, thouj^h in the fpring-time they have nothing to feed upon but fea-ware.
There are abundance of deer in the chace of Ofervaul, which is fifteen miles in com-
pafs, confining in mountains, and vallies between them : this affords good pafturacje
for the deer, black cattle, and ftieep. This foreft, for fo they call it, is furrounded with
the fea, except about one mile on the weft fide : the deer are forced to feed on fea-
ware, when tile fnow and froft continue long, having no wood to flielter in, and fo are
expoied to the rigour of the feafon.

•.vl5

* Ca1emi(h, on tite wed fide, as the Editor learns by a letter from the noble and iDt«^igent proprietor,
the 1 arl of Statorth,

vol.. III. 4 B I favr

57'

martin's description of tite

I
'I

1 liwv big roots of trees at the head of Loch-Erifport, and there is about a hundred
young birch and hazle trees on the fouth-wefl: fide of Loch-Stornvay ; but there is no
more wood in theifland. There is great variety of land and fea- fowls to be icen in this
and the leffcr adjacent iflands.

The amphibia here are feals and otters ; the former arc eaten by the vulgar, who
find them to be as nourifliing as beef and mutton.

The inhabitants of this ifland are well proportioned, free from any botliiy imperfec-
tions, and of a good llature : the colour of their hair is commonly a light brown or red,
but few of them are black. They arc a healthful and ftrong-bodied people, feveral ar-
rive to a great age : Mr. Daniel Morifon, late minifter of Barvas, one of my acquaint-
ance, died lately in his eighty-fixth year.

They are generally of a fanguine conftitution : this place hath not been troubled with
epidemical difeafes, except the fmall-pox, which comes but feldom, and then it fweeps
away many young people. The chin-cough afflifts children too : the fever, diarrhea,
dyfcntcria, and the falling down of the uvula, fevers, jaundice, and flitches, and the or-
dinary coughs proceeding from cold, are the difeafes mofl prevalent here. The com-
mon cure ufed for removing fevers and pleurifies is to let blood plentifully. For curing
the diarrhea and dyfenteria, they take fmall quantities of the kernel of the black Molocca
beans, called by them crofpunk ; and this being ground into powder, and drunk in
boiled milk, is by daily experience found to be very effectual. '1 hey likewife ufe a little
dofe of treflarig water with good fuccefs. When the cough affedts them, they drink
brochan plentifully, which is oat-meal and water boiled together ; to which they fome-
times add butter. This drink, ufed at going to bed, difpofelh one to fleep and fweat,
and is very diuretic, if it hath no fait in it. They ufe alfo the roots of nettles, and the
the roots of reeds boiled in water, and add yeaft to it, which provokes it to ferment ;
and this they find alio beneficial for the cough. When the uvula falls down, they or-
dinarily cut it, in this manner: they take a long quill, and putting a horfe-hair double
into it, make a noofe at the end of the quill, and putting it about the lower end of the
uvula, they cut off from the uvula all that is below the hair with a pair of fciffars, and
then the patient fwallows a Ijftle bread and cheefe, which cures him. This operation is
not attended with the leafl inconvenience, and cures the diftemper fo that it never re-
turns. They cure gretn wounds with ointment made of golden-rod, all-heal, and
frefh butter. The jaundice they cure two ways : the firfl is by laying the patient on
his face, and pretending to look upon his back-bones, they prefently pour a pail-fuII
of cold water on his bare back, and this proves fuccefsful. The focond cure they per-
form by taking the tongs and making them red-hot in the fire ; then pulling off the
cloaths from the patient's back, he who holds the tongs gently touches the patient on
the vertebra; upwards of the back, which makes him furioufly run out of doors, ftill
fuppofing the hot iron is on his back, till the pain be abated, which happens very fpeedily,
and the patient recovers foon after. Donald-Chuan, in a village near Bragir, in the
parifh of Barvas, had by accident cut his toe at the change of the moon, and it bleeds a
frefh drop at every change of the moon ever fince.

Anna, daughter to George, in the village of Melbofl, in the parifh of Ey, having
been with child, and the ordinary time of her delivery being expired, the child made
its pafTage by the fundament for fbme years, coming away bone after bone. She lived
feveral years after this, but never had any more children. Some of the natives, both of
the ifland of Lewis and Harries, who converfed with her at the time when this extra-
ordinary thing happened, grwe me this account.

The

WESTF.RK ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. j-rg

The natives arc generally inpenious and quick of apprchenfion ; tlicy have a mecha-
nical genius, and fcvcral otboth fcxcs have a gift of" poufy, and are able to form a fatire
or panegyric extempore, without theaniilanceofany llronger liquor than water to raifc
their fancy. They are great lovers of niufic ; and when I was there they g;ive an ac-
count of eighteen men who could play on the violin pretty well, without being taught.
They are ftill very hofpitable, but the late years ol fcarcity brought tlieni very low, and
many of the poor people have died by famine. The inhahitants arc very dextrous in
the exercifes of fwimming, archery, vaulting, or lca|)ing, and are very flout and able lea-
men ; they will tug at the oar all day long upon bread and water, and a fnufli of
tobacco.

Of the inferior adjacent IJlands,

WITHOUT the mouth of Loch-Carlvay lies the finall ifland Garve ; it is a high
rock, about half a mile in compafs, and fit only for palturage. Not far from this lies
the ifland of Berinfay, which is a quarter of a mile in compafs, naturally a ftrong fort,
and formerly ufed as fuch, being almoft inacceflible.

The ifland Fladda, which is of fmall compafs, lies between Berinfay and the main
land. "Within thefe lies the ifland called Bernera Minor, two miles in length, and
fruitful in corn and grafs. "Within this ifland, in the middle of Loch-Carlvay, lies the
ifland of Bernera Major, being four miles in length, and as much in breadth : it is fruit-
ful alio in corn and grafs, and hath four villages. Alexander Mac-Lenan, who lives in
Bernera Major, told me, that fome years ago a very extraordinary ebb happened there,
exceeding any that had been feen before or fmce ; it happened about the vernal equinox,
the fea retired fo far as to difcover a ftone-wall, the length of it being about forty yards,
and in fome parts about five, fix, or feven feet high, they fuppofe much more of it to
be under water : it lies oppofite to the wcfl:-fide of Lewis, to which it adjoins. He fays
that it is regularly built, and without any doubt the efteft of human induftry. The na-
tives had no tradition about this piece of work, fo that I can form no other conjedure
about it, but that it has probably been ereded for a defence againfl: the fea, or for the
the ufe of fifliermen, but came in time to be overflowed. Near to both Berneras lie the
fmall iflands of Kaialifay, Cavay, Carvay, and Grenim.

Near to the north-weft promontory of Carlvay Bay, called Galen-head, are the little
iflands of Pabbay, Shirem, Vaxay, "Wuya, the Great and Leflfer. To the north-weft of
Gallen-head, and within fix leagues of it, lie the Flannan-Iflands, which the feamen call
North-hunters ; they are but fmall iflands, and fix in number, and maintain about
feventy (heep yearly. The inhabitants of the adjacent lands of the Lewis, having a
right to thefe iflands, vifit them once every fummer, and there make a great purchafe of
fowls, eggs, down, feathers, and quills. When they go to fea, they have their boat
well manned, and make towards the iflands with an eaft-wind ; but if before or at the
landing the wind turn wefterly, they hoift up fail, and fteer direftly home again. If
any of their crew is a novice, and not verfed in the cuftoms of the place, he muft be
inllruded perfeftly in all the punctilios obferved here before landing ; and to prevent
inconveniencies that they think may enfue upon the tranfgreflfion of the leaft nicety ob-
ferved here, every novice is always joined with another, that can inftrufl: him all the time
of their fowling : fo all the boat's crew are match'd in this manner. After their land-
ing, they fallen their boat to the fides of a rock, and then fix a wooden ladder, by laying
a Itone at the foot of it, to prevent its falling into the fea ; and when they are got up
into the ifland, all of them uncover their heads, and make a turn fun-ways round,
thanking God for their fafety. The firft injunftion given after landing, is not to eafe

4 E 3 Nature

ii.'

'»

■$^]

580 martin's description op the

Nature in that place where the boat lies, for that they reckon a crime of the highefl na-
ture, and of dangerous coiifequence to all thiir crew ; for they have a great regard to
that very piece of the rock upon which they firlt let their feet, after efcaping the danger
of the ocean.

The bigell cif thffe iflands is called Ifland-More ; it has the ruins of a chapel dedicated
to St. Flannan, fnnn whom the ifland derives its name. When they are come within
about twenty paces of thf ;iliar, they all drip theuifelves nf their upper garments at once ;
and their upper clcihes being laid upon a llone, which ibiids there on purpofe for that
life, all tlie crew pray three times before they begin fowling : the tirft day they fay the
firft prayer, advancing towards the chapel upon their knees ; the fecond prayer is faid
ns they go round the chapel ; the third is laid hard by or at the chapel : and this is
their niorninii; fcrvicc. Their vefpers are performed with the like number of prayers.
Another rule is, that it is abfolutcly unlawful to kill a fowl with a (lone, for that they
reckon a great barbarity, and diredly contrary to ancient cultoin.

It is alfo unlawful to kill a fowl before they afcend by the ladder. It is abfolutcly
unlawful to call the ifland of St. Kilda (which lies thirty leagues fouthward) by its proper
Irilh name llirt, but only the high country. They mud notfo much as once name the
iflands in which they are fowling, by the ordinary name F/annan, but only the country.
There are fcveral other things that mud not be called by their common names : e. g.
•vi/H^ which in the language of the natives fignifies water, they call burn : a rock, which
in their language is creg, mud here be called crucy, i. c. hard : Ihore in their language
exprefled by c/addac/j, mud here be called va/j, 1. e. a cave : four in their language is
expreffed gorty but mud here be called gairc, i. e. fliarp : flippery, which is exprefled
log, mud be called foft : and feveral other things to this purpofe. They account it alfo
unlawful to kill a fowl after evening- prayers, There is an ancient cudom, by which the
crew is obliged not to carry home any (heepfuct, let them kill ever fo many flicep in thefc
iflands. One of their principal cudoms is not to deal or eat any thing unknown to
their partner, elfe the tranfgreflbr (they fay) will certainly vomit it up ; which they
reckon as ajud judgment. When they have loaded their boat fufticiently with flieep,
fowls, eggs, down, fifli, &c. they make the bed of their way homeward. It is obferved
of the flieep of thefe iflands, that they are exceeding fat, and have long horns.

I had this fuperditious account not only from feveral of the natives of the Lewis, but
likewife from two who had been in the Flannan iflands the preceding year. I aflced one
of them if he prayed at home as often and as fervently as he did when in the Flannan
iflands, and he plainly confefled to me thjt he did not : adding further, that thefe re-
mote iflands were places of inherent fandity ; and that there was none ever yet landed
in them but found himfelf moredifpofed to devotion there, than any where elfe. The
ifland of Pigmies, or as the natives call it, the ifland of Little Men, is but of fmall extent.
There has been many fmall bones dug out of the ground here, refembling thofe of hu-
man kind more than any other. This gave ground to a tradition which the natives have
of a very low datured people living once here, called Lulbirdan, i. e. Pigmies.

The ifland Rona is reckoned about twenty leagues from the north-call point of Nefs
in Lewis, and counted but a mile in length, and about half a mile in breadth : it hath a
hill in the wed part, and is only vifible from the Lewis in a lair fuiinners' day. I had an
account of this little ifland, and the cudom of it, from fcvoral natives of l^ewis, who
had been upon the place ; but more particularly from Mr. Daniel Morifon, Minider of
Barvas, alter his return from Rona ifland, which then belonged to him, as part of his
glebe. Upon- my landing (fays he) the natives received me very aflcdlionately, and ad-
drelfcd me with their ufual lalutation to a Ilranger : <' God favc you, pilgrim, you arc

8 heartily

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND'. 58 1

heartily welcome here ; for we have had repeated apparitions of your pcrfon among us,
(after the manner of the fecond fight,) and we heartily congratulate your arrival in this
our remote country." One of the natives would needs exprefs his hi^h efteemfor my
perfon, by makinij; a turn round about ine fun-ways, and at the fame time blcfling me,
and wifliing me all happinefs ; but I bid him let alone that piece of homage, telling him
1 was fenfible of his good meaning towardb mo : but this poor man was not a little dif.ip*
pointed, as were alii) his neighbours; for they doubted not but this ancient ceremony
would have been very acceptable to me : and one of them told mc, that this was a thing
due to my character from them, as to their chief and patron, and they could not nor
would not fail to perform it. They conducted me to the little village where they dwell,
and in the way thither there were three inclofures ; and as I entered each of thefe, the in-
habitants feverally faluted mc, taking me by the hand, and faying, " Traveller, you are
welcome here." They went along with me to the houfe that they had afligned for my
lodging ; where there was a bundle of ftraw lain on the floor, for a {.wt for me to lit
upon. After a little time was fpent in general difcourfej.ihe inhabitants retired to their
refpective dwelling-houi'es, and in this interv.il, they killed each man a (hccp, being ia
all five, anfwerable to the number of thdr families. The fkins of the (liccp were entire,
and flayed oft"fo from the neck to the tail, that they were in form like a fack. Thcfe
Ikins being flayed ofl:' after this manner, were by the inhabitants inllantly fdled with bar-
ley-meal ; and this they gave me by way of a prefcnt : one of their number acted as
fpeaker for the reft, faying, '* Traveller, we are very fenfible of the favour you have
done us in coming fo far with a defign to indrud us in our way to happinefs, and at the
lame time to venture your felf on the great ocean ; pray be pleafed to accept of this
fmall prefent, which we humbly ofl'er as an expreflion of our fincere love to you."
This I accepted, though in a very coarfj drefs ; but it was given with fuch an air of
liofpitality and good-will, as delerved thanks. They prefented my man alfo with fome
pecks of meal, as being likewife a traveller : the boat's-crew, having been in Rona be-
fore, were not reckoned (Irangcrs, and therefore was no prefent given them, but their
daily maintenance.

There is a chapel here dedicated to St. Ronan, fenced with a ftonc wall round it ;
and they take care to keep it neat and clean, and fweep it every day. There is an altar
in it, on which there lies a big plank of wood about ten feet in length ; every foot has
a hole ia it, and in every hole a ftone, to which the natives afcribe feveral virtues : one
of them is lingular, as they fay, for pron^oting fpeedy delivery to a woman in travail.

They repeat the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments in the chapel every
Sunday morning. They have cows, (heep, barley and oats, and Uve a harmlefs life, be-
ing perfedly ignorant of mod of thole vices that abound in the world. They know no-
thing of money or g^^lJ, having no occalion for cither; they neither fell nor buy, but
only barter for fuch little things as they want ; they covet no wealth, being fully content
and fatisiycd with food and raiment ; thou;^h at the fame time they are very precife in
the matter of property among themfelves : for none of them will by any means allow
his neighbour to fifli within his property ; and every one muft exactly obferve not to
make any incroachmcnt on his neighbour. They have an agreeable and hofpitable
temper for all ftrangers : they concern not themfelves about the reft of mankind, ex-
cept the inhabitants in the north part of Lewis. They take their firname from the co-
lour of the Iky, r.iinbow, and clouds. There arc only five families in this finall iiland,
and every tenant hath hisdwelling-houfe, a barn, a houfe where their belt effeiSiis are pre-
ferved, a houfe for their cattle, and a porch on each fide of the door to keep off the

rain ov fnow. Their houfes are built with ftone, and thatched with Ibaw.

which is kr^pt
down

583 MARTlN'a PUSCRIPTION OF THE

down with ropes of tho (iimc, poifcd with ftones. They wear the fame habit wiih
thole in Lewis, ami liKak only Irifli. \Vhcn any of them conic to the Lewis, which is
I'eldoin, they arc adoiiillied to lee lo many people. Thoy much aJmire greyhounds, and
love to have them in their company. They are mij;htily pleafed at the light of horfes ;
and one ol them obfcrving a horfe to neigh, afkcdifthat horfe laughed at him. A boy
from Rona perceiving a colt run towards him, was fo much frighted at it, that he
jumped into a bufli of nettles, where his whole (kin became full of blillers.

Another of the natives of Rona having had the opportunity of travelling as far as
Coul, in the (hire of Rol's, which is the feat of Sir Alexander Mac-keneic, every thing
he faw till re was furprizing to him ; and when he heard the noife of thole who walked
in tlje rooms above liim, he prelenily fell to the ground, thinking thereby to fave hi8
life, for lie fuppofcd that the houfe was coming down over his iieaJ. When Mr. Mori-
fon tile minillcr was in Rona, two of the natives courted a maid with intention to marry
her ; and being married to one of them afterwards, the other was not a little difappoint-
cd, becaule there was no oihtr match for him in this ifland. The wind blowing fair,
Mr. Morifon failed direclly for Lewis ; but after three hours faiUng was forced back to
Rona by a contrary wind : and at his landing, the* poor man that had loll his fweet-
hcart was overjoyed, and exprelTed himfelf in thefe words; " I blefs God and Ronan
that you are returned again, for I hope you will now make me happy, and give me a
right to enjoy the woman every other year by turns, that fo we botli may have ilVue by
her. Mr. Morifon could not refrain from fmiling at this unexpeded requed, chid the
poor man for his unreafonable demand, and defired him to iiave patience for a year
longer, and he would fend him a wife from Lewis ; but this did not cafe the poor man,
who was tormented with the thoughts of dying without ifluc.

Another who wanted a wife, and having got a (liiiiing from a feaman that happened
to land there, went and gave this (hilling to Mr. Morifon, to purchale him a wife in the
Lewis, and lend her to him, for he was told that this piece of money was a thing of ex-
traordinary value ; and his dcfire was gratified the eiiluing year.

About fourteen years ago a fwarm of rats, but none knows how, came into Rona,
and in a fliort time eat up all the corn in the idand. In a few months after, fomc fea-
men landed there, who robbed the poor pei^ple ot their bull. '1 lufe misfortunes, and
the want of fupply from Lewis for the fpace of a year, ocealioned the death of all that
ancient race of people. The fleward of St. Kikia being by a llorm driven in there, told
ine that he found a woman with her child at lur breall, both lying dead at the fide of a
rock. Some years after, the miniller (to whom theilland belongcth) fent a new colony
to this ifland, with fuitable fupplies. The following year a boat was fent to them with
feme more fupplies, and orders to receive the rents; but the boat being loll, as it is
fuppc fed, I cai: give no further account of this late plantation.

'11.0 inhabitants of this little ifldnd fay, that the cuckow is never feen or heard here,
but alter the death of the Earl of Soaforth, or the miniller.

The rock Souliiker lieth four Kagues to the eall of Rona ; it is a quarter of a mile in
circumference, and abounds with great numbers of fea-fowl, fuch as Solan geefe, guilla-
mote, coulter-neb, puffin, and levcral other forts. The fowl called the colk is found
here : it is lefs than a goofe, all covered with down, and when it hatches it carts its
feathers, which are of divers colours ; it has a tull't on its head refembling that of a pea-
cock, and a train longer than that of a houfe-cock, but the hen has not fo much orna-
ment and beauty.

The iiland Siant, or, as the natives call it, Ifland-More, lies to the eaft of U(hiners in
Lewis, about a league. There arc three Ihiall iflands here j the two fouthern illands

arc

VTFSTIRK ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

5«3

are feparntcd only by fpring-tldos, and arc two miles in circumf rente. Ifland-More
hath a chapel in it dcJicated to tlic Vir;;iii Mary, iind is fruitful in corn and j;rafs : tlic
ifland joining to it on the wefl is only for paltiiragc. I faw a coiipio of cnglrs lure:
the natives told nie, that thefe eagles would never lufTcr any of their kind to live there
hut thomfelvcs, and that they drove away their yoiinj^ ones as foon as they were able to
fly. And they told me likewife, that thole ea{;lcs are fo careful cf the place of their
abode, that they never yet killed any flieep or lamb in the ifland, though the bones of
lambs, (if lawns, anil wild-fowls, are frequently found in and about their nefls j fo that
they make their purch.il'c in the oppofitc ifl.mds, the neareft of which is a league diflant.
This ilkind is very itrong and inacceffiblo, fave on one fide where the afccnt is narrow,
and foniewhat relembling a Hair, but a great deal more high and ftcep ; notwithftanding
which, the cows pafs and ropafs by it fafely, though one would think it uneafy for a man
to climb. About a mufkct-fhot further north lies the biggeft of the iflands called
More, being two miles in circumference : it is fruitful in corn and paflurage, the cows
here are much fatter than any I faw in the ifland of Lewis. There is a blue flone on
the furface of the ground here, moift while it lies there, but when dry, it becomes very
hard ; it is capable of any itnprcflion, and I have I'een a fet of table-men made of this
flone, prettily carved with dlircrcnt fi;;urcs. There is a promontory in the north-end
of the ifland of Lewis, called Europy Point, which is fuppofcd to be the furtheft to
north-wefl of any part in Europe.

Thefe iflands are divided into two pariftics, one called Barvas, and the other Ey or Y ;
both which are parfonagcs, and each of them having a minilter. The names of the
churches in Lewis Ifles, and the Saints to whom they were dedicated, are St. Columkil,
in the ifland of that name ; St Pharacr in Kacrncfs, St. Lcnnan in Sternvay, St. Collum
in Ey, St. Cutchou in Garbofl, St. Aula in Greafe, St. Michael in Tollolla, St. Collum
in (iarieu, St. Ronan in Eorobie, St. Thomas in Ilabofl, St. Peter in Shanabofl, St.
Clement in Dell, Holy-Crofs Church in Galan, St. Brigit in Barove, St. Peter in Shia-
dir, St. Mary in Barvas, St. John Baptifl in Bra;:,'ar, St. Kiaran in Liani Shadir, St.
Michael in Kirvig, St. Macrcl in Kirkibofl:, St. Dondan in Little Berneray, St. Michael
in the fame ifland, St. Peter in Pabbay ifland, St. Chriftopher's chapel in Uge, and
Stornvay church : all thefe churches and chapels were, before the reformation, fanc-
tuaries ; and if a man had committed murder, he was then fecure and fafe when once
within their precinfts.

They were in greater veneration in thofe days than now : it was the conflant praflice
of the natives to kneel at firft fight of the church, though at a great diftance from them,
and then they faid their Pater-nofler. John Morifon of Bragir told me, that when he
was a boy, and going to the church of St. Mulvay, he obferved the natives to kneel and
and repeat the Pater-noiter at four miles diftance from the church. The inhabitants of
this ifland had an ancient cuftom to f\icrificc to a fta-god, called Shony, at Hallow-tide,
in the manner following : the inhabitants round the ifland came to the church of St.
Mulvav, having each man his provifion along with him ; every family furniflied a peck
of malt, and this was brewed into ale : one of their number was picked out to wade
Into the fea up to the middle, and carrying a cup of ale in his hand, ftanding ft;ill in that
pofture, cried out with a loud voice, frying, " Shony, I give you this cup of ale, hoping
that you'll be fo kind as to fend plenty of fea-ware, for inriching our ground the enfu-
ing year .•" and fo threw the cup of ale into thi' fea. This was performed in the night
time. At his return to land, they all went to church, where there was a candle burning
upon the altar : and then ftanding filent for a little time, one of them gave a fignal, at
which the candle was put out, and immediately all of them went to the fields, where

3 they

■IHl

\'4l

!*■>"'

tig

;a-*'

584 r4ARTIN's ntSCRIPTtON OF TUB

they foil a drinking their iile, and fpcnt the rcma'ndcr of the night indo^ulng andfing.

'I'he next mornincj thoy all rt'turncd home, bcinp; well fatisfu'd that licy h;ul punc-
tually obfcTvcd this iulonui annivcrfiuy, whicli flu-v bflicvtil to bo a pow 1 ,'mI means 10
procure a ploiititu! crop. Mr. Daniel and Mr. Kenneth Morifoii, niiniilcrs in I.e«is,
tohl mc they fpen' fevpral years, be/orc they couM pcrluade liie vulj^ar 'ativos toal)<in»
don this ridicu!ou> piece cf iupcrnition } which is quite ubolifhed tor tlale thirty-two
years paft.

The inhabitants arc all protedants, except one family, who are Roman cathciicks.
I was toKI, that about fourtctn years aj,'o, three or four fillurmcn, who then foriook
the protcdant communion, and imbraced the Romifli laith, havinj^ ihe opportunity of a
Po|)ilh priell on the place, thry applied thcmf Ivtito him for lome of the holy water ; it
being ulual for the priells to Iprinkle '"t mi the bays, as an infallible means to procure
plenty of herring, as alio to bjin"; ihe i. in;. Jiofe nets that are befprinkled with it.
Thefe fifhcrs accordingly having i;ot ih^J wat< r, poured it upon their nets before they
droped them into the fea ; they li! 'v '' turned ihe iiiJide of their coals outwards, after
uhich they fet their n'-tsin ih 'cveninj- it the ufual hour, 'i'he protellant fllhers, who.
ufed no other means than Mm ing their nets into the fea, at the fame time were uncon*
cerned ; but the Papifls l(cing impatient and of expcdlation, got next morning betimes
to draw their nets, and being come to the place, they foon perceived that all their nets
were lofl ; but tljc protedants found their nets fafe, and full of herring : which was no
fmall mortification to the pried and his profelitcs, and expofed them to the derifion of
their neighbours.

'J'he protedant native? obferve the feftivals of Chridmas, Good-Friday, Eadcr, and
Michaelmas : upon this lad they have an annivcrfary cavalcade, and then both fexcs
ride on horfc-back.

There is a village called Stom-Bay, at the head of the bay of that name ; it confids
of about fixty families : there arc fome houfcs of entertainment in it, as alfo a church,
and a fchool, in which Latin and Englifh are taught. The deward of the Lew is hath
his refidence in tliis village. The Lewis, which was pofl'eded by Mack-leod of Lewis,
for fcveral centuries, is, fince the reign of King James the fixth, become the property
of the Earl of Seaforth, who ftill enjoys it.

The J/lc rif lliirr'ici.

THE Harries being feparatcd from Lewis is eighteen miles, from the nuflilncfs on
the wedcrn ocean to Loch-Scafort in the ead ; from this bounding to the point of
Strond in the fouth of Harries, it is twcnty.four miles ; and in fome places four, five,-
and fix miles in breadth. The foil is almod the fame with that of Lewis, and it pro-
duces tl'i; fame forts of corn, but a greater iticreafe.

Tl.. •: i?i'.pcrately cold, and 'h natives endeavor to qualify it by taking a dofe
of i^',f:..n/ ■, •• Prandy : - chcy brew no fuch liquors as 'IVidarig, or Ufquebaugh-
bau' r (..1 . rn coad ot Harries is generally rocky and mountainous, covered with
with grals and heath. The weft fide is for the mod part arable on the fea-coaft ; fome
parts of the hills en the cad fide arc naked without ,irth. The foil being dry and fandy,
is fruitful when manured with fea-ware. 1 he grals on the wed fide is mod clover
a-id dafy, which in the fummer yields a mod fragrant fuKll. Next to Loch-Seafort,
which for fome miles divides the Lewis from Harriis. is the notable harbour within the
ifland, by fca-faring men culled Glafs, and by the natives Sculjju : it is a mile and a half

long

W£STLkN ISI.ANIIS O? SCOTLAND. 585

long from fnuth to norll),;ind a mile in Brcacltli. There is an entrance on the foiith
anil norih ends ot" the illo, and fcvcral good h.irboiirs in tMcIi, well known to thi;
Rcnt'ralitv -t foamcn. Within the ifle is Loch-Tarbat, running lour miles well ; it hath
frvrnd fm [ iflcs, and is fomctimcs frequented by herring. Without the Loch there
is plenty «>f cod, ling, and large eels.

About half a league further on the fame coafl lies Loch-Stoknefs, which is about a
mile in length ; there is a frefh-water lake at the entrance of the ifland, which allbrds
oyrtcrs, and feveral forts of fifli, the Tea having accels to it at fpring-tides.

About a le;u(ueand a half farther louth, is Loch-Finilhay, an excellent though un-
known harh the land lies low, and hides it from the light of the fea-faring men,
till tin y Cf)nK verv near the coalt. 'I'hcrc arc, befides this harbour, many creeks on
this fide, for bark, and Iciler boats.

iMini-watfT lakes • huiiod in this ifland, and arc well ftored with trout, eels, and falmon.
Each lake has a rivor mninc^ from it t' ihe fea, from whence the falmon comes about
the beginning t t May, md ) joner if ' le feafon be warm. The beft time for angling
for falmon and t ut, i when a wa ii fouth-weft wind blows. They ufe earth-worms
commonly for b. , but cackles at fad the falmon better than any other.

There uiriel '■ " .-. -

the wells m the p 1
lately difcovi'i ^ il near
which is fiiHicient •
very effdQual for re
though they have <
to nie by thole tha
the lame effect on buti

'1 here is a well in tK
fay that thi v find it cffi

'Ihere are feveral ( -
and bcfl for.ified by \\,u
the palfage Lading to it
tage renders it feeure fro
thoufand, if he have but
throw the ftrongeft man u

•nt fpi ings ilTuing from all the mountains of this ifland, hut

11 r the fea are not good. There is one remarkable fountain

Mai ig-houfes, on the eallern coafl, and has a large ftone by it,

od a (Iranger to it. The natives find by experience that it is

4; lf)fl appetite ; all tliat drink of it become very foon hungry,

luif lly but an hour before : the truth of this was confirmed

pertedty well, and alfo by thofe that were infirm ; for it had

'i«ath, a mile to the eaft from the village Borve j the natives

'>us againfl cholics, flitches, and gravel.

in the mountains, and on each fide the coaft : the largeft

is that in the hill Ulweal, in the middle of a high rock ;

.1 narrow, that one only can enter at a time. This advan^

any attempt ; for one fingle man is able to keep off a

ibff in his hand, fince with the leait touch of it he may

...^ „.. _. jvn the rock. The cave is capacious enough for fifty men

to lodge in : it nath two wt-;*' -n it, one of which is excluded fi >m dogs; for they fay
that if a dog do but tade ol ili water, the well prefently drieth up : and for this rea-
fon, all fuch as have occafion lo lodge there take care to tie their dogs, that they may
not have accefs to the water. The other well is called the Uog's-well, and is only drunk
by them.

There are feveral ancient forts ercclcd here, which the natives fay were built by the
Danes ; they are of a round form, and have very thick walls, and a pafiage in them
by which one can go round the fort. Some of the ftones that compofe them are very
large : thefe forts are named after the villages in which they are built, as that in
Borve is called Down-Borve, &c. They are built at convenient diftances on each fide
the coafl, and there is a fort built in every one of the Idler ifles.

There are feveral ftones here erefted on one end, one of which is in the village of
Borve, about feven feet higli. There is another flone of the fame height to be feca
in the oppofite Ifle of Faranfay. There are feveral heaps of flones, commonly called
karnes, on the tops of the hills and rifing grounds on the coaft, upon which they
uied to burn heath, as a fignal of an approaching enemy. There was always a fenti-
VOL. III. 4 F Qsl

• i

■t'4

'fi

%'^

: m

586

martin's description of the

ncl at each kavnc to obferv( tlie fea-coafl; ; the ftewarJ of the ifle made frequent rounds
to take notice of the fcnthicls, and if he found any of them afloep, he itripped them of
their clothes, anJ dLfcrred their pcrfonal punifliinents to the proprietor of the place.
This ille produceth the fame kind of cattle, flicep, and goats, that are in the Lewis.
The natives gave nie an account, that a couple of goats did grow wild on the hills, and
after they had increafed, they were obfervcJ. to hring forth their young twice a year.

There are abundance of deer in the hills and mountains hero, commonly called tht:
Forcft, which is eighteen miles in length from eait to well ; the number of deer com-
puted to be in this place is at leaft two thoufand; and there is none permitted to hunt
there without a licence from the fteward to the foreller. There is a particular moun-
tain, and above a niile of Ground furrounding it, to which no man hath accefs to hunt,
this place being refcrvcd for IMacleod himfclf ; who, when he is diipofed to hunt, is
fare to find game enough there.

Both hills and valleys in the forefl: are well provided with plenty of good grafs mixed
with heath, which is all the fhelter thcfe deer have during the winter and fpring ; there
is not a flirub of wood to be fecn in all the forelt ; and, whe:i a (lorm comes, the
deer betake themfelves to the fea-coaft, wliere they feed upon the alga marina, or fea-
warc.

The mertrick, a four-footed creature, about the fize of a big cat, is pretty numerous
in this ifle ; they have a fine fkin, which is fmooth as any fur, and of a brown colour.
They fay that the dung of this animal yields a fcent like mulk.

The amphibia here are otters and feals ; the latter are eat by the meaner fort of peo-
ple, who Hiy they are very nourilhing. The natives take them with nets, whole ends
are tied by a rope to the ftrong alga, or fea ware, growing on the rocks.

Tiiis ifland abounds with variety of land and fea fov\ I, and particularly with very
good hawks.

There are eagles here of two forts ; the one is of a large fize and grey colour, and
thefe are very dcitruclive to the fawns, flieep, and lambs.

The other is confiderably lefs, and black, and Ihaped like a hawk, and more dc-
ftructive to the deer, &c. than the bigger fort.

There are no venomous creatures of any kind here, except a little viper, which was
not thought venomous till of late, that a woman died of a woimd ihe received from
one of them.

I have fecn a great many rats in the village Rowdil, which became very troublefome
to the natives, and deilroyed all their corn, miik, butter, cheefe, 6cc. '1 hey could
not extirpate thefe vermin for fome time by all their endeavours. A conlidcrable
number of cats was employed for this end, but were Hill worded, and became per-
fedlly fdint, becaufe overpowered by the rats, who were twenty to oiic. At length one
of the natives, of more fagacity than his neighbours, found an expedient to leiiew his
cat's flrength and courage, which was by giving it warm milk after every encounter
with the rats; and the like being given to all the other cats after every b.itiu, i'uc-
ceeded fo well, that they left not one rat alive, notwithllaading the great number of
them on the place.

On the eait fide the village Rowdil, there is a circle of ftone, witliin eight yards of
the ftiorc ; it is about three fathom under water, and about two (lories iiigh ; it is iu
form ^roader above tlian below, like to the lower ilory of a kiln : I faw it perfeclly on
one liu' , bit the feufon being then windy, hindered me from a full view of it. I'he
natives lay that there is fuch another circle of lefs compafs in the pool liorodil, on the
other fide the bay.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 587

The fliore on the weft coaft of this ifland affords a variety of curious fliells and walks;
as Tclitna and Turbines of various kinds ; thin Patella, fticakcd blue, various coloured,
Pcdenes, fome blue, and feme of orange colours.

The Os-fcpk is found on the fund in great quantities. The natives pulverize it, and
take a dole of it in boiled milk, wliich is found by experience to be an effectual remedy
againft the diarrhea and dyfuntcria. They rub this powder likewife, to take off the
film on the eyes of liieeji.

There is variety of nuts, called Molluka beans, fome of which are ufed as amulets
againft witchcrah, or an evil eye, particularly the while one ; and, upon this account, they
arc wore about children's neck;;, and if any evil eye is intended to rhem, they fuy the
nut changes into a black colour. That they did change colour, I found true by my
own obfervation, but caiuiot be pofitive as to the caufc of it.

Malcolm Cantpbell, Ueward of Harries, told me, th;U fome weeks before my arrival
there, all his cows gave blood ' i 'ad of nvilk for feveral days together: one of the
neighbours told his wife that thi'- muft be wiichcrafc, and it would be eafy to remove
it, if Ihe would but take the white nut, called the Virgin Mary's nut, and lay it in the
pail into wliich Ihc was to milk the cows. This advice flie prefently followed, and having
milked one cow into the pail with the nut in it, the milk was all blood, and the nut
changed its colour into dark brown ; (lie ufed the nut again, and all the cows gave pur",
good milk, •,' Iiich they alcribe to the virtue of the nut. This very nut Mr. Campbell
prel'ented me with, aiul I keep it Hill by me.

Some hnall quantity of anibergrcafe hath been found on the coafl: of the ifland Bcr-
nera. I was told that a weaver in this ifland had burnt a lump of it, to (how him a
light for the moll part of the night, but the ftrong fcont of it made his head ache ex-
ceedingly, by which it was difcovered.

j^\n ancient wouian, about iixty years of age, here loft her hearing, and having no
phylician to give her advice, flie would needs try an experiment herfelf, which was
thus : file took a quill with which fli^ ordinarily fnuflied her tobacco, a;;d filling it:
\vith the powder of tobacco, poured it into her ear ; which had the defired effect, for
Ihe could hear perfeflly well next day. iXnotlier neighbour about the fame age, having
loll: her hearing fome time after, recovered it by the iiune experiment, as 1 was told by
the natives.

The ftieep which feed here on fandy ground, become blind fometimcs, and ai*c cured
by rubbing chalk in their eyes.

A (ervant of Sir Normond Macleod's living in the Ifland of Bernera, had a mare
that brought forth a foal with bolh the hinder feet cloven, which died about a year
after : the natives concluded that it was a bad omen to the owner, and his death, which
followed in a few years alter, continued tin in in their opinion.

The nativ'.'s make ul'e of the ieeds of a white v. ild carrot, inftead of hop?, for brcw-
in<» their beer ; and they fay that it aufwers the end fulliciently well, and giws the drink
a good relilh b:fuK's.

John Cair.pbeli, forefler of Harries, makes ufe of tliis fmgular remedy for a cold:
he wi.lks into the lea up to the middle with his clothes on, and immediately alter
goes to bed in his wet clothes, and then laying the bed-clothes over hiui, pi'ocures a
l;ve\t, which removes the di'U mper ; and this, he told me, is his only remedy for all
maniyr of colds. One of the faid John Campbell's ferviints having his check fv.elled,
and there being no phyfician near, he aiked his mafter's advice ; he knew n:'thing
proper lor him, but however bid him ajiply a plaiftcr of warm barley-dough to the
place atlecled. 'liiis affuagod the fwelling, and drew out of tlie llefli a little worm,

4 »■ 2 about

■'i

588 martin's description of the

about half an inch in length, and about the bignefs of a goofe-quill, having a pointod
head, and many little toot on each fide : this wprm they call fillun, and it hath been
found in the head and neck of fcveral perfons that I have fcen in the ide of Skie.

Allium Latifolium, a kind of wild garlic, is much ufed by ibiiic of the natives, as a
remedy againll the flone : they boil it in water, and drink the infulion. and it expels
fand powerfully with great eafe.

The nat.vcs told me, that the rock on the eaft fide of Harries, in the found of ifland
Glafs, hath a vacuity near the front, on the north-weft fide of the found ; in which
they fay there is a ftone that they call the Lunar-ftone, wliich advances and retires ac-
cording to the increafe and dccreafc of the Moon.

A poor man born in the village Rowdil, commonly called St. CIcment's-blind, loft
his fight at every change of the moon, which obliged him to keep his bed for a day or
two, and then recovered his fight.

The inferior iflands belonging to Harries are as follow : the illand Bemcra is five
miles in circumference, and lies about t.wo leagues to the fouth of Harries. The foil is
fandy for the moft parr, and yields a great produd of barley and rye in a plentiful year,
efpecially if the ground be enriched by fca-ware, 'and that there be rain enough to
fatisfy the dry foil. 1 had the opportunity to travel this ifland feveral times, and upon
a ftrict inquiry I found the produd of barley to be fometimos twenty-fold and upwards,
and at that time all the eaft fide of the ifland produced thirty fold. This hath been
confirmed to me by the natives, particularly by Sir Nonnond Macleod, who poflTcfles
the ifland ; he likewifo confirmed to mc the account given by all the natives of Harries
and South-Vift, viz. that one barley-grain produces in fome places feven, ten, twelve,
and fourteen cars of barley ; of which he himfelf being diffident for fome time, was at
the pains to fearch nicely the root of one grain after fome weeks growth, and found
that from this one grain many oars had been grown up. But this happens not, except
when the feafon is very favourable, or in grounds that have not been cultivated fome
years before ; which, if manured with fea-ware, feldom fiiil to produce an extraordinary
crop. It is obferved in this ifland, as elfewhere, that when the ground is dug up with
fpadcs, and the turfs turned upfide down, and covered with fea-ware, it yields a better
produft than when it is ploughed.

There is a frefli-water lake in this ifland, called Loch-Bruift, in which there are
fmall iflands abounding with land and fea-fowl, which build there in the fummcr.
There is likwife plenty of eels in this lake, which are eafieft caught in September ;
and then the natives carry lights with them in the night-time to the rivulet running
from the lake, in which the eels fall down to the fea in heaps together.

This ifland in the fummer is covered all over with clover and daify, except in the
corn-fields. There is to be feen about the houfes of Berncra, for the fpace of a mile,
a foft fubftance, in fliew and colour exadly refembling the fea-plant called flake, and
grows very thick among the grafs. The natives fay, that it is the produft of a dry hot
foil ; it grows likewife in the tops of feveral hills in the ifland of Harries.

It is proper to add here an account of feveral (Irangc irregularities in the tides, on
Bernera ccaft, by Sir Robert IVIurray, mentioned in the Phil. Tranfa(5lions.

The tides increafe and decreafe gradually, according to the moon's age^ fo as about
the third day after the new and full moon, in the Weitern Ifles and Continent they are
commonly at the higheft, and about the quarter moons at the loweft : (the former called
fpring-tides, the other neap-tides.) The tides from the quarter to the higheft fpring-
tide increafe in a certain proportion, and from the fpring-ride to the quarter-tide in like
proportion j and the ebbs rife and fall always after the lame manner.

J It

WESTERN ISLANIiS OF SCOTLAND. 589

It is fuppofed that the increafe of tides is made in the proportion of fines: the firft
increafe exceeds the loweft in a finall proportion, the next in a greater, the third greater
than that, and (o on to the middlemod, whereof the excefs is greatefl ; diminifliing
again from that to the highed: fpring-tide, fo as the proportions before and after the
middle do anfwer one anollier. And hkewile from the highcft fpring tide to the
loweft neap-tide, the dccreafcs fccm to keep the like proportions ; and this commonly
falls out when no wind or other accident caiifes an alteration. At the beginning of
each flood on the coail, the tide niovos fafter, but in a fmall degree, incrcafing its fwift-
nefs till towards the middle of the Hood ; and then decreafing in fwiffnefs again from-
the middle to the top of the I;is';h-water ; it is ftippofed that the inequal fpaces of time,
the increafe and decreaCe of fvviftnefs, and confecjxiently the degrees of the rifings and
fallings of the fame unequal fpaces of time, arc performed according to the proportion
of fines. The proportion cannot hold precifely and exactly in regard of the inequali-
ties that fall out in the periods of the tidus, which are believed to follow certain pofitions
of the moon in regard to the equinox, which arc known not to keep a precifc conftant
courfe ; fo that there not being equal portions of time between one new moon and an^
other, the moon's return to the fame meridian cannot be always performed in the fame
time. And the tides from the new moon being not always the fame in number, or
fometimes but fifty-feven, fometimes fifty-eight, fometimes fifty-nine, (without any
certain order or fueceffion) is another evidence of the difficulty of reducing this to any
great exadnefs.

At the eaft end of this ifle there is a ftrange reciprocation of the flux and reflux of
the fea. There is another no lefs remarkable upon the weft fide of the Long Ifland ;
the tides which come from the fouth-weft run along the coaft northward ; fo that
during the ordinary courfe of the tides, the flood runs eaft in the Frith where Berneray
lies, and the ebb weft j and thus the fea ebbs and flows ordex'ly, fome four days befora
the full and change, and as long after j (the ordinary fpring-tides rifing fome fourteen
or fifteen foot upright, and all the reft proportionally, as in other places,) but after-
wards, for four days before the quarter moons, and as long after, there is conftantly a
great and Angular variation. For then (a foutherly moon making there the full fea)
the coi"''e of the tide being eaftward, when it begins to flow, which is about nine and
a half of the clock, it not only continues fo about three and a half in the afternoon,
that it be high-water ; but after it begins to ebb, the current runs on ftill eaftward
during the whole ebb ; fo that it runs eaftward twelve hours together, that is, all day-
long, from about nine and a half in the morning till about nine and a half at night. But
then when the night-tide begins to flow, the current turns, and runs weftward all night,
during both flooil and ebb, for fome twelve hours more, as it did eaftward the day
before. And thus the reciprocations continue, one flood and ebb running twelve hours
eaftward, and another twelve hours weftward, till four days before the full and new
moon ; and then they relume their ordinary regular courfe as before, running eaft during
the fix hours of flood, and weft during the fix of ebb.

There is another extraordinary irregularity in the tides, which never fails ; that
whereas between the vernal and autumnal equinox, that is, for fix months together, the
courfe of irregular tides about the quarter moons, is to run all day, 12 hours, as from
about nine and a half to nine and a half or ten, exadly eaftward ; all night, that is, twelve
hours more, weftward ; during the other fix months, from the autumnal to the vernal
equinox, tlie current runs all day weftward, and all night eaftward. I have obferved
the tides as above, for the fpace of lome days both in April, May, July, and Augult,

The

!;!F

■■:--'i

590 MARTIN S DESCRIPTION OF THE

The natives have frequent opportunities to fee this both day and night, and they all
agree that the tides run as mentioned above.

There is a couple of ravens in this ifland, which heat away all ravenous fowls, and
when their young arc able to fly abroad, they beat tliciii alio out of the ifland, but not
without many blows, and a great noife.

There are two chupels in this iile ; to wit, St. AHinh's and St. Columbus's chapel.
There is a ftone eredcd near the former, which is eight feet high, and two feet thick.

About half a league from Bernera, to the weftward, lies the illand I*abbay, three miles
in circumference, and having a mountain in the middle. The foil is Tandy, and fruitiul
in corn and grafs, and the natives have lately difcovcrcd liere a white marble. The
weft end of this ifland, which looks to St. Kilda, is called tlie Wooden Harbour, becuife
the fands at low-water dilcover feveral trees that have formerly grown there. Sir Nor-
■mond Macleod told me, that he had fecn a tree cut there, which was alterwards made
into a harrow.

There are two chapels in this ifland, one of which is dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
the other to St. Muluag.

The Iteward of Kilda, who lives in Pabbay, is ac^uftomcd in time of a ftorm to tie a
bundle of puddii gs, made of the fat ot fea-lowl, to tlie end ot his cable, and lets it
fall into the fca beuind the rudder ; this, he fays, hinders the waves from breaking,
and calms the fca ; but the fcent of the greafe ahradts the whales, which put the veilel
in danger.

About half a league to the north of Pabbay, lies the ifle Sellay, a mile in circumfe-
rence, that yields extraordinary pallurage for llieep, lb that they oecome fat very foon;
they have ihe biggell horns that ever I faw on fluep.

About a league farther to the north, lies the ille Taranfav, very fruitful in corn and
grafs, and yields much yellov, talk. It is three miles in ciicumterence, and has t.vo
chajjels, one dedicated to St. Tan-an, the other to St. Keitli.

There is an antient tradition among the natives here, that a man muft not be buried
in St. Tarran's, nor a woman in St. Keith's, becaufe otheruile the corpfe would be found
above-ground the day after it is interred. I told tl;eni tliis was a moll -.idiculous fancj

which they might foon perceive by experience, if they would but put ii to a trial
Roderick Campbell, who refides there, being of my opinion, vt'folved to embrace the
firft opportunity thai offered, in order to undeceive the credulous vulvar ; and accord-
ingly a poor man in this ifland, who died a year alter, was buried in St. Tarran's cha-
pel, contrary to the ancient cuflom and tradition of this place, but his corpfe is Hill in
the grave, from whence it is not like to rife until tlic general relurrcdion. Tliis in-
ftance has delivered the credulous natives from this univafonable fancy. Tliis illand
is a mile diitant from the main land of Harries, and whe:i the iidialit.inis go from this
ifland to Harries, with a di.rie;u to i\\y for any t'.me, tliey a;vi-cc with tliole liiat carry
them over, on a particular motion of walking npnaa certain piece of ground, unknown
to every body but themfelves, .ns a fignal to 'ann'^ i.'i;in liack.

Three leagues to the welhvard of tiiis idaad I) ■". G'aiker, about half a mile in circurii-
ference ; it excels any other plot of its extent f r iVultlulnLfs in grafs and proJui't of
milk ; it mai'itains c-i^ht or ten cows. The naiiv-s kili foals here, which are very big.

About two leagues farther north lies the illand Se irp, tv.o miles ia circumference,
and is a high land covered with heath and gitds.

Between Bernera and the main land of Ilarn .s lies the ifland Ilnfay, which is above
two miles in circumfereiice, and for the molt part arable ^--ound, which is fruitful in

corn

WESTr.RN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

59 1

corn and grafs ; there is an old chapel here for the ufe of the natives ; and there was
lately difcovercd a gravL- in the welt end of the iflaad, in which was found a pair of
fcales made of brafs, and a little hammer, both which were finely polilhed.

Bttwcen Enfay and the main laud of Harries, lie feveral fmall iflands, fitter for paf-
turage than cultivation.

Ihe little ifland Ouedam hath a vein of adamant ftone, in the front of the rock.
The natives fay that mice do not Hve in this ifland, and when they chance to be carried
thither among corn they die quickly after. Without thefe fmall iflands, there is a tra£t
of fmall ifles in the fame line with the eaft fide of the Harries and North- Vift ; they
are in all refpefts of the fame nature with thofe two iflandj, fo that the fight of them
is apt to difpoie one to think that they have been once united together.

The mofl foutherly of thefe iflands, and the neareft to North- Vift is Hermetra, two
miles in circun.R'rence : it is a moorifli foil, covered all over almoft with heath, except
here and there a few piles oF grafs, and the plant milk-wort; yet, notwithftanding this
difadvantage, it is certainly the bed fpot of its extent Ibi* pafturage, among thefe ifles,
and afibrds great plenty of milk in January and February beyond what can be feen in
the other iflands.

I iiwv here the foundation of a houfe built by the Englifli, in Charles the Firfl's
time, for one of their magazines to lay up the caflv, fait, &c. for carrying on the fifliery,
wliich was then begun in the Weftcrn Iflands ; but this defign mifcarried becaufe of
the civil wars which then broke out.

The channel between Harries and North -Vift, is above three leagues in breadth, and
abounds with rocks, as well under as above v/ater ; though at the fame time veflTels of
three hundred tons have gone through it, from eaft to weft, having the advantage of
one of the natives for a pilot. Some fixteen years ago, one Captain Froft was fafely
conduced in this manner. The Harries belongs in property to the Laird of Macleod j
he and all the inhabitants are Proteltanls, and oblerve the feftivals of Chriftmas, Good-
Friday, and St. Michael's day ; upon the latter, they rendezvous on horfeback, and
make their cavalcade on the lands at low water.

The ifland of North- Vift lies about three leagues to the fouth of the ifland of Har-
ries, being in form of a femicircle, the diameter oi which looks to the eaft, and is moun-
tainous and full of heath, and fitter for pafturage than cultivation. The weft fide is of
a quite diiferent foil, arable and plain ; the whole is in length from fouth to north nine
miles, and about thirty in circumlereiice.

There are four mountains in the middle, two lie within lefs than a mile of each
other, and are called South and North-Lee. All the hills and heath afford good paf-
turage, tiiough it ronfifts as much of heath as grafs. The arable ground hath a mixture
ol" clay in fome phi. es, and it is covered all over in fummer time and harveft with clover,
daily, and variety of other plants, plealunt to the fight, and of a very fragrant fmellj
and abounds with black cattle and flieep. The foil is very grateful to the huflsand-
man, yielding a produce of barley, from ten to thirtyfold in a plentiful year ; provided
the ground be manured with fea-ware, and that it have rain proportionable to the foil.
I have, upon feveral occafions, enquired concerning the produce of barley in this and
the neighbouring iflands ; the fame being much doubted in the fouth of Scotland, as
well us in Kngland ; and, upon the whole, I have been aflured by the moft ancient and
induilrious ol the natives, that the increafe is the fame as mentioned before in Harries.

They told n)e, likeuile, that a plot of ground which hath lain unmanured for fome
ycais, would, in a very plentiful itafon produce fourteen ears of barley from one grain ;
levcral ridges were then Ihewcd me of this extraordinary growth in different places.

6 The

592

MARTIN S DESCRIPTION OF THE

The grain Town here is barley, oats, rye ; and it is not to be doubted but the foil would
alio produce wheat. The way of tillage here is commonly by plovighing, and feme by
dipqing. The ordinary plough is drawn by four horfes, and tluy have a little plough
called riftle, /. e. a thing that cleaves, the coulter of which is in form of a fickle ; and
it is drawn fometinies by one, and fometimes by two horfes, according as the ground is.
The defign of this little plough is to ilraw a deep line in the ground, to make it more
cafy for the big plough to follow, which otlierwife would be much retarded by tlio Urong
roots bent lying deep in the grviund, that arc cut by the little plough. When they dig
with fpades, it produccth more increafe ; the little plough is likewife ufed to facilitate
digging as well as ploughing. 'Ihcy continue to manure the ground until the tenth of
June, if they have plenty ot braggir, /. c. the bro.ul leaves growing on the top of the
slga-marina.

About a league and a half to the foiiih of the ifland Ilermetra in Harries, lies Loch-
JVIaddy, fo called from the three rocks without the entry on the fouih fide. They are
called Maddies, from the great quantity of big mufcles, called Maddies, that grows
upon them. This harbour is capacious enough for fome hundreds of vell'els of any
burden : it hath feveral ifles within it, and they contribute to the fecurity of the har-
bour, for a veflll may fafely come clofe to the quay. I'he feamen divide the harbour
in two parts, calling the fouth-fide Loch-Maddy, and the north (ide Loch-Partan. There
is one ifland in the fouth loch, which for its commodioufnefs is, by the I'.nglifli, called
Nonfuch. This loch hath been famous for the great quantity of herrings yearly taken
in it within thcfe fifty years lad paft. The natives told me, that in the memory of
fome yet alive, there had been four hundred fail loaded in it with herrings at one fea-
fon ; but it is not now frequented for lifliing, though the herrings do ftill abound in it ;
and on this coafl every funnner and harveft, the natives fit angling on the rocks, and
as they pull up their hooki., do many times bring up herrings. That they are always
on the coaft, appears from the birds, whales, and other fiflies, that are their forerun-
ners every where ; and yet it is (Irange, that in all this ifland there is not one herring.
net to be had : but if the natives faw any encouragement, they could foon provide them.
Cod, ling, and all forts of liih taken in thefe iflands, abound in and about this lake.

In this harbour there is a fmall ifland called Vackfay, in which there is flill to be
feen the fcnindafion of a houfe, built by the Engliih, for a magazine to keep their cafk,
fait, ice. for carrying on a great fifliery which was then begun there. The natives told
me, that King Chailes the Firlf had a fliare in it. This lake, with the convenience of
its fifliiiigs and iflands, is certahily capable of great improvement ; much of the ground
about the bay is capable of cultivatitm, and ailbrds a great deal of fuel, as turf, peats,
and plenty ot frcfli water. It alio affords a good quantity of oyflers, and clam flielU
fifl) ; the former grow on rocks, and are fo big tlut they are cut in four pieces before
they are eat.

About half a mile further fouth is Loch-Epcrt, having a rock without the mouth of
the entrv, which is narrow: the lake penetrans fonie miles towards the well, and is a
gooti harbour, having feveral iinall ifles within it. The fea!s are vvry numerous hen-.
In the month ot July the fpring-tides carry in a great quantity o{ Mackrd, and at the
return of the v.attr they are found many times lying on the rocks. The vulgar na-
tives make ufe of the allies of burnt fea-ware, which prel'erves them for fome time in-
Aead of fait.

About two miles to the foutii of Loch-Eport lies the bay called the Kyle of Rona ;
having the ifland of that name (which is a little hill) within the bay ; there is a harbour
im each fide of it. This place hath been fouad of ^leat convenience for the filhing of cod

and

WESTERN ISLANDS Ol' SCOTLAND.

593

and ling, which abound on this coaft. There is a little chapel in the ifland Rona, called
the Lowlandeis' chapel, becaufe Ramen who die in time of fiftiing are buried in that
place, -f

There is a harbour on the foiith fido ihi^ ifland Borera; the entry feems to be nar-
rower than really it i;; : thu iiland and the oppofite point of land appear like two littla
promontories off at foa. Some vefl'els have bt-en forced in there by llorm, as was Cap-
tain IVtcrs, a Dutchman, and afr^r him an EngUfh fliip, wlio both approved of this
harbour. The fonner built a cock-boat there on a Sunday, at which the natives were
much olFendcd : the latter having landed in the iiland, happened to come into a houl'e
M here he found only ten wouicn, and they were tMiiployed (as he fuppofed) in a flrange
manner, viz. their arms and k'gs were bare, being five on a fide; and between them
Jay a board, upon which they had laid a piece of cloth, and were thickening of it with
thi ir hLUids and foot, and fingin.:; all the while. The Englifliman prefently concluded
it (o be a little bedlam, which he did not cxpeft in fo remote a corner ; and this he
told to Mr. John Maclean, who polTeires the ifland. Mr. Maclean anf^vered, he never
faw any mad people in thofe iflands : but this would not fatisfy him, till they both went
to the place where the women were at work ; and then Mr. Maclean having told him
that it was their common way of thickening cloth, he was convinced, though furprifed
at the manner of it.

There is fuch a number of frcfli-watcr lakes here as can hardly be believed : I myfelf
and fevcral others endeavoured to number them, but in vain, for they are fo difpofed
into turnings, that it is impraftical le. They are generally well '.locked with trouts and
eels, and fome of them witli falmon ; and which is yet more (1 range, cod, ling, mackrel,
i?cc. are taken in theie hikes, into which they are brought by the fpring-lides.

Tiiefe lakes have many fmall itlands, which in fummer abound with variety of land
and fea-f'owls, that build and hatch there. There are alio feveral rivers here which
aiford falmon : one fort of them is very fmgular, that is called marled falmon, or, as
the natives call it, if/lufri/iniin, being lellor than the ordinary falmon, and fall of ftrong
large fcales ; no bait can allure it, and a fliadow frights it away, being the wildelt of
filhes : it leaps high above the water, and delights to be on the I'urface of it.

There is great plenty of flicU-fiih round this ifland, more particularly cockles : tha
iflands do alfo aiford many fmall filh called eels, of a whitifli colour ; they are picked
out of the fand with a fmall crooked iron made on purpofe. There is plenty of lob-
flers on the well fide of this ifland, and one fort bigger than the reft, having the toe
ihovter and broader. ^ _

There are feveral ancient forts in this ifland, built upon eminences, or in the middle
of frefli-water lakes.

Here are likewil'e feveral cairns or heaps of ftones : the biggeft I obferved was on a
hill near to Loch-Kport. There are three (tones treated, about a foot high, at the dif-
tancc of a quarter of a mile from one another, on eminences, about a mile from Loch-
Maddy, toamufe invaders; for which reafon they are dill called fidfc fentinels.

There is a Hone of twenty-four feet long and four in breaiith in the hill Criniveal :
the natives lav, a giant of a month old was buried under it. There is a very ccnfpicuous
ftone in the face of the hill above St. Peter's village, above eight feet high.

There is another a!)oul eight feet high at Down-rofll'l, which the natives call a crofs.
There are two broad ilones, about eight feet high, on the hill two miles to the fouth
ofValay.

Tlvre is another at the key, oppofite to Kirkibafl, twelve feet high : the natives fliy
that delinquents were tied to this ilonc in time of divine fervice.
vol.. 111. 4 o There

594-

MARTIN 8 DrSCRIPriON OF TffB

Tlicre is n ftonc in form oF a crofs in tiie row oppofitc to St. Mary's church, about
five foot high: the luitivt-s call it the Water-crolsi, for tiio anciLiit inh ibiiaiits had a
cuftom of ertclinj^ tiiis fort of crofs to procure rain, aiul when they had f!;()t tiiou)!;h, ihcy
laid it flat on the grounj ; Init this culloni is now dilufed. The iiifLiior illand is the
iflamlof Iloilkir, whicli liis near three leigucs wcflwnrd of North-Vili:, is throe miles iu
tircumferonce, of a fandy foil, and very fruitful in ci^ni and grafs, and black cattlo.
The inhabitants labour Uiider want of fuel of all forts, which obiigos them to burn cows'
dung, barloy-ftraw, and dried fea-M'arc : the nativos told me, that broad baked by the
fuel of fea-ware relifh s better than that done othcr\\ifc. I'hoy are accuitoincd to fait
their cheefe with the aihos of barley-ftraw, which they fuHcr not to lie on it above twelve
hours time, becaufe otherwife it would fpoil it. There was a (lone choft lately difco-
vered here, liaving an earthen pitcher in it which was full of bones,' and as foon as
touched they turned to dulf.

There are two fmall iflands feparated by narrow channels from the north-weft of this
ifland, and are of the fame mould with the bi;^' ifland. 'I'he natives fay, that there is a
couple of ravens there which fuffer no other of their kind to approach this ifland, and
If any fhould chance to come, this couple immediately drive tliem away, with fuch a
noifc as is heard by all the inhabitants : they are obfervcd likewife to beat away their
young as foon as they are able to purchafe for themfelves. The natives told me, that
when one of this couple happened to be wounded by gun-fliot, it lay itill in the corner
of a rock for a week or two, during which time its mate brought pn)viiion to it daily,
until it recovered perfeftly. The natives add further, that one of thefe two ravens hav-
ing died fome time after, the furviving one abandoned the ifland for a few days, and
then wasfeen to return with about ten or twelve more of its kind, and having cliofen a
mate out of this number, all the reft went quite oil", leaving thefe two in poUlflion of
their little kingdom. They do by a certain fagacity difcover to the inhabiuuits any car-
cafe, onthefliore or in the helds, whereof 1 have feen feveral inllances : the inhatntanis
pretend to know by their noife whether it ho flofli or fiHi. I told them this was fuch
nicety that 1 could fcarcely give it credit ; but they anfwired me, that thry came to a
knowledge of it by obforvation, and that they make their loudoll jioill- lor llefh. Tiiere
is a narrow channel between the iiland of Heilker and one of the UflVr iflands, in which
the natives formerly killed many foals, in this manner : thoy twilled toijcthor fevoral
fuiall ropos of hcrfe hair in form of a net, contrudod at one end like a purfe; and (o
by opening and fliufiing this hair-net, thole foals were catched iu the narrow channel.
On«he foLith fide of North-Vifl are the iflands of lileray, which are acccfliblo at low
vator, each of thcn> being throe niik\s in compafs, and very fertile in corn and cattlo.

On the weflern coal! of this ifland lies the rock ICoufmil, idiour a quarter of a mile in
circumference, and is Hill famous for the yearly filhing of leals lliero, in the end of Octo-
ber. '1 his rock btlongs to the farmers of the next adjacent lands: there iy one who
furniflieih a boat, to whom there is a particular fliare due on that account, bolides hi,s
proportion as tenant. The parifli niinider hath his choic;' of all the youii"- fijly ^^j
that which he takes is called by the natives (lullen-Mory, tiiat i.^, the Viivin Mary'sllal.
T he Howard of the ifland hath one paid to him, his oilicer hath anotlu r, and this by
virtue of their ofl^ices. 'Ihefe farmers man their boats with a competent number lit for
the bufinolV, and thoy always embark uith a contrary wind, fi,r their fecuriiy aeainit
bein;.'; driven away by the ocean, and liki wife to prevent them from being diicovered
by the feals, who are ;'pt to frnoll the leeiit of them, and prelently run to fea.

When this crew is quietly landed they furround the pafles, and then the firnal for
the gaieral attack is given from the boat, and fo they beat tlicm dowu wiiii big' ILwes.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS or OCOTl.AND,

595

The fcals at this onfet make towards the fca with all fpecJ, and often force their ]mi'.
i'agc over the necks of the ftoutefl aflailants, who aim always at the forehead of tha
fvals, giving many blows before they arc killed ; and if they are not hit exadly on the
front, they contraft a lump on their forehead, which makes them look very fierce ;
nnd if they get hold of the (laff with their teeth, they carry it along to fea with them.
Thofe that are in the boat flioot at them ar, they run to fca, but few arc catched that
way. The natives told me, that fevcral of the biggcfl feals lofc their lives by endeavour-
ing to favc their young ones, whom tliey tumble before them towards the fea. I was tolj
alio, that three hundred and twenty feals, young and old, have been killed at one time
in this place. The reafon for iittacki.'u; them in Oclobcr is, bccaufe in the beginning
of this month the fcals bring forth their young on the occnn lide ; but thcfe on the ealt
fide, who are of the Idler (lature, brino forth tlieir young in the middle of June.

'1 he fealv'^ cat no fifli till they lirfl take off the ikin : they hold the head of the fiflj
b?t\vecn their teeth, and pluck the (Icin clF each fidi with thtir lliarp pointed nails ;
this I obferved foveral times, 'i'hc natives told mo that the feals are regularly coupled,
and rcfent an encroachment on their mates at an extraordinary rate, 'i he natives have
oblerved, that when a male had invaded a female, already coupled to another, the in-
jured male, upon its return to its mate, would by a (Irange fagacity find it our, and
relent it againft the aggrclVor by a bloody confiicl, which gives a red tindlure to the ie;i
in that part where they fight. This piece of revenge has been often obferved by feal-
hunters, and many others of unqueftionabie integrity, whofe occafions obliged them to
be much on this coad. I was aflured by good hands, that the feals make their addreffes
to each other by kiiTcs : this hath been obferved often by men and women, as fifliing
on the coaft in a clear day. The female puts away its young from fucking as foon
as it is able to provide for itfelF; and this is not done without many fevere blows.

There is a hole in the Ikin of the female, within which the teats are fecured from
being hurt, as it creeps along the rocks and Itones ; for which caufe nature hath formed
the point of the trnque of the young one cloven, without which it could not fuck.

The natives fait the feals with the afhcs of burnt fca-waro, and fay they are good food:
the vulgar eat them commonly in the fpring-time witli a long pointed (tick inftead of
a fork, to prevent the ilrong I'moll which their hands would otherwife have for feveral
hours after. Tlie tlefli ami broth of frefli young feals is by experience known to be
pectoral ; the meat is aRringent, and ulld as an eflcclual remedy againft the diarrhea
and dyfentcria : the liver of a leal being dried and pulverii^ed, and afterwards a. litle
of it drimk with milk, aqcavitai, or red wine, is alfo good againft fluxes.

Some of the muivcs wear a girdle of the fcal-fkin about t!;e middle, for removing the
fciatica, as thofe of the II ire of Aberdeen wear it to remove the chin-cough. This
four-footed creature is reckoned one of the fwiftcft in the fea ; they fay likewife that it
leaps in cold weather the h-i^ht of a pike above water, and that the Ikin of it is white
in iummer, and darker in winter ; and that their hair liandL': on end with the Hood, and
falls again at the ebb. 1 he Ikin is by U\j natives cut iir long pieces, and then made ufe
of infteadnf ropes to fix tiie plough to liieir horfcs when they till the ground.

The feal, though Llkcniid fit unlv lor tlie vul;;ar, is alfo eaten by pe.-fons or Jifliiic-
tion, though .undir a dii'Vrent nur...-, to wit, /'</;« .• this I have hem allared of by
^ood hands, and tl.us wc fee ihat the gi;nera!ity oi men are as m".;ch k^l by fancy as
judgment in tlieir p. dales, as well as in otiier things. '1 ho popifli vulgar, in the iilands
fouthward from thi :, eat thcfe feals in Lent im'L.ad of fiih. This oceaiioaed a debate
between a proteltaitt gentleman and a papili of i.-.y acquaiiuance : thj former alledged
that the other had traurircfl'jd the rules of his tlmrcli, bv euiing llelh in Lent : the

4 (.; 2 latt. r

111

;■';!

1'H

596

martin's nis'iPTioM 01' 'irrr

latter anfwcrcd, that he did n'^t ; for, Tajs ho, I havc> eiC u Ra-crcatuiv, which only lives
and feeds upon tifb. The piotelhiiit rcpllfd, tluiC this croitiiri' is ain|il)ibious, lies,
creeps, cats, llecps, and fo fp-iids much of its time on land, which no fiih can do niul
livp. It haih alio anoilier faciihy ih't no filh lia: , tliat is, it hreaks wind backward fo
loudly, tlft\t one may hear it at a groat dillaiice. lint the papift (Hll maintained that
he iniid b'jlicve it to be (ilh, till Inch time as the pope and his priells decide the
qut'ftion.

Ab(.,iit ilirrc loaf^iics ;ind a Iialf to the weft lie tlie Hr.all ifl;;ni'R called llawfk'T-Rock,'?,
and luiwIker-K^'j^ath, and llawfliorNimaiinieli, /</ <•//, Mcniks-Rnek, whicii liath an
altar in it. Ihe tirll ealLd fo from the ocean, as beiiiir niwv to it ; for /.k'xu or (/j,ri in
the ancient lanj^uage fignilVjs the ocean : the more f ulh rly roeks are fix or f v 11 bio-
ones nicked or iiulentcd, iar r^^ntb fitMiifies fo much. The l.ir.;cll ifland, whi( h is
northwaril, is near half a mile in circuiuf^rence, and It is covered with long grifs.
Only fmall vefTels can pafs between tliis and the fouthern rocks, beini^ neareft to
St. Kilda of all the wi ft iflands ; both of them ab'Mmd with fowls as tmich as atiy illes
of their extent in St. Kilda. The coultcrnch, guillemot, and fcarts, ;',re moil numerous
licre ; the feals likewife abound very much in And about tl\ofe ro'k: .

The ifland of Valay lies on the woft, near the main land of North Vift ; it is about
four miles !m circumterence, arable and a dry fi^ndy ioil, very frui'lid in corn and }':raf^-,
clov?r, avid daify. It hath three chap'.Is ; one dedicated to St. Uiton and another to
the Virgin Mary. There are two crolTes of Hone, each of them about fcven feet high,
and a foot and a half broad.

There is a little font on an altar, bein^fT a bi'^ ftono, round like a cnnnon-ball, and
having in the upper end a little vacuity capable of holding two fpoonfuls of water. !Uelow
the chapels there is a flat thin (lone, called lirownies Hone, upon which the ancient
inhabitants olTered a cow's milk every Sunday ; but this cudoni is now quite abolilhcd.
Some thirty paces on this fide h to be feen a little flone houfe under ground ; it is very
low aui! long, having an entry on the fea fide : I law an entry ii- tlie middle of it, which
was dilcovercd by the falling of the flones ami carfli.

About a league to the north-cad of Valay is i!)e iOind of Borera, about four miles
in circumference : the mould in fome places is f.indy, and in others bi;>.ck earth ; it is
very fruitful in cattle and grafs. I faw a marc here which I was told brought forth a
foal in her f( cond year.

Thrre is a cow Iktc that brought forth two f.^male calv.s at once, in ail things Jo
very like one another, that they could not be didinguilhed by any outward mark ; and
had fueh a fympaihy that they were never feparate, excipt in time of fucking, and tlua
they kept (till their own fide of thefr dam, which wasnc^t obferved until a dillinguifliipiT
mark was put about one of their necks by the tnilk-maid. In the middle of this ifland
there is a frefh-waftr l.dce, well Hocked with very big eels, fome of them as long as
cod or ling fifh. There is a pafTage under the flony ground, which is between the feu
and the lake, through which it is fuppofed tlie eels come in witli the fpring-tides : one
of the inhabitants, called Mac-Vanich, i. e. Monks Son, hud the curiofity to creep naked
throu);h this paflage.

This ifland affords the largefl and bcfl dulfe for eating ; it requires Icfs butter than
any other of this Ibrt, and has a nullowifh talle.

The burial-place near the houfes is called the monks-field, for all the monks that
dieil in the illands that lie northward from Egg were buried in this little plot : each
grave hath a flone at both ends, fome of which are three, and others four feet high.
There are big Hones witiiout the burial-place even with the ground; feveral of them

5 have

W'/'.f

ISl-AWDfl or SCOTLAND.

597

Thrill: Idl.inj:;*

rcl'jji'ft (til lands (il

havf irttT' ('»<»*» ii\ %'-mfl» If ade by art : the tradition is, th; t tl.cfc vacuities were
iltif^ for r vinif tlv .<r»ks* kiKcs wfi n t!i( y pnyed upon tlicm.

hi'S half a ItMgiu! fniuL nil tlie fide of Borrra: it is fingular in
-ifl, und the othtr ifland;^ that liirround it, for they are all com-
on the contrary is altnpethi r mofs tovcivd with heath, afTording
five prats in d. pth •, and is vtrv f. rviccabij ami iilvltil, fiiniilhiiig the ifland Ui)rcra, &c.
with pl.r.ty (rf good fuel. 'J'his illaiid was held as conlt'crated lor fevLnU ages, info-
iiiiKh lh;kt the natives would not iluii prcfinne In cut any livl in it.

The tattle produced litTi.' are hoii'cs, row , *heip, ami ho'.;,s, jrencrally of a low fla-
tnre. I he horles are very Uronjj', and lit fur padt:, though expoftd to the ligour «f
tiie weather a'l the winter and Iprinp in the open lieli'o. Th'^ir cows are alio in (he
Jielils all the Ipring, and tlu ir beif is fweet and tcmler aa any can be : tlivy iive upoji
fea-waro in the winter and Iprinf!;, and are fattened by it; nor are they llau';litered before
they eat plentifully of it in December.* The natives are accuilonicd to lalt their beti
Tn a cow's hide, which kcps it dole froni air, and prdcrves it as well, if not better,
than barrelf\ and tafles tliey lay bell when this way ul'ed. This beei is traniported to
Glafgow, a city in the welt of Scotland, and liorn thrnce (bcin;; put in barrels ilicre) >
exported to the Indies in iTood condition. 'I'he hills allbrd lotne hundreds of deer, \\l',o
eat fca-ware alio in winter and I'pring-tiine.

The amphibia produced here are feals and otterf. There is no fox or venomous
creature in this ifland. The _^reat eagles heie fallen thiir talons in the hack of lilh, and
ooininonly of falmon, which is often above water and oi' the furface. l he nativcii,
who in the fumnier-tiine live on the coalt, do fom'.'tiines rub the eagle of its prey after
he, landing.

Here are hawks, eagles, pheafants, moor-fowls, tarmogan, plover, pigeons, crows,
fwans and all the ordinary lea-fowls in the well illands. The eagles are very dellruc-
tive to the lawns and lambs, efpecially the black eagle, which is of a lefll-r fiz? than the
other, 'i he natives obferve, that it hxes its talons between the deers' horns, and b'.ats
its uinps tonllanily about its eyes, which |.uts the deer to run contiiniallv till it fall
into a ditch, or over a precipice, where it di.'S, and fo becomes a prey to tliis cunning
hunter. There are at the fame time leveral other eagles of this kind, which lly on both
lidts of the deer, which fright it extremely, and contribute much to its more iudden
dellruiSlion.

The ioreflcr and fev^ral of the natives allured tr.% that they had fecn both forts of
eagles kill deer in this niarmer. The fwans come hitlior in great numbers in the month
of October, with north-eait winds, and live in the frefli lakes, where they fc'ed upon
trout and water plants till March, at which time tiiey lly away again with a fuulh-ealt
wind. When the natives kill a fwan, it is connnon fvir the eaters of it to make a nega-
tive vow (i. c. they fwear never to do fonielhiijg that is in illelf impradicable) before
they taftc of the fowl.

'i'he bird corn-crakcr is about the bignefs of a pigeon, having a longer neck, and
being of a brown colour, but blacker in harvell than in funimer : the natives fay it lives
by the w ater, and under the ice in winter and i'pring.

The colk is a fowl fomewhat kis than a goofe, hath feathers of divers colours, as
white, grey, green, and black, and is beautiiul to the eye : it hath a tuit on the crown
of its head like that of a peacock, and a train longer than that of a houfe-cock. This
fowl lofcth its feathers in time of hatching, and lives mollly in the remuteft illands, as
Hcilker and Rona.

ii\

■ . "I

The

5y8

martin'* nrjcRiPTioN of tub

The fjnwllii is a fowl Icfs than a duck, it is reckoned a true prof^norticafnr of fair
woathcr ; (or when i: lings, fair and good weather always follows, av the mtivcs com-
nutnly obfcrvc : the piper of St. Kilda plays the notes which it fings, and hath cur.ipofi.d
a tune of them, which the natives juiip;ed to be very line UiUlic.

'I'he rain-poofc, bij^jrer th.in a duck, makes a doleful noife bcfijre a great rain : it
builds its neli always vipon the brink of Infh-water lakes, io as it may reach the w;tU'r.

'Ihe bonnivochil, fn called by the natives, and by the feainen billion anil carrara, iis
Mg as a goofe, having a white fpot on the bread, and thi nil party-coloured ; it fclii.nii
fl'es, but is exceedingly quick in diving. 'Ihe minilh r of North \'ilt ti>Id me that he
killed one of thi-ni which weighed fixteen jvninds and an oniuc : there Is aboiii an inch
deep of fat upon the Ikin of it, which the natives apply to the hip-huiie, and by experi-
ence find it a fuccer--lul remedy f( r removing tlu fciatit.M.

Tlie bird goylir, about the bignefs of a fwailo'v, '}-• obferveil never to land but in the
riqnth of January, al which time it is fupnofed r«i hatch ; it ciivos vith a violein fwilfiiefs.
WMien any number of thel'e ii)wls arc Icen to;;clIier, it is cunchided to be an undoubted
fign of an approaching flovm ; antl when the ihirni cralcs, th.y dJappear under tho
water. The feamen call them malifigieti, from luali clHijits, which tiiey often find to
be true.

The bird fercachan-aittin is al)out the bignefs of a large mall, but having a longer
body, and a bluilh colour; the bill isol ararnation colour. This bird (liritks moll liide-
oully, and is obferved to have a greater atl'ecli m lin- its mate i!)an aiiv i'owl wh.itfoevcr ;
for when the cock or hen is killed, the fin-\ivinij one doth fur el^lit or ten days alter-
vard make a kunciuable noile about the place.

The bird falkidar, about the bignefs of a fea-maw of the middle fize, is obferved to
•^ly with greater Iwiftnefs than any other fowl in tliofc parts, ami purines liii'er fowls,
aiul forces them in their flight to let hdl the food which they have got, and by its nim-
blenefs catches it before it touches the ground.

'1 he natives obfcrvc that an exiraordinary heat without rain, at tlie ufual time the
fea fowls lay their e/gs, hinders thein from laying any eggs for about eight or ten day^ ;
vhereas warm weai!:er, acciimpanied with rain, difpnfes them to lay much fooner.

The wild geefe are pleiuiful here, andveiy dellrucUve to the barley, notwitlillandlng
the many methods ulcd for driving them away botli by traps and guii-liiot. 'I'here arc
fome flocks of barren fowls of all kinds, which are didinnuifli ed by tluir not ji lining
with tiic retl of their kind, and they arc fecn comuioidy uj)ou the bare rocks, without
any neflr.

The air is here moifl and moderately cold, the natives qualifv it fometimes bv drink-
ing a glafs of ulquebaugh. 'lite moilUire of this place is lueli, that a loaf of fugar is
in danger to be difl'ulved, if it be not preftrved by being near the fire, or laying it among
oatmeal, in foine clofe place. Iron here becom,s <piickly rudy, and iron which is on
tlie fea-fide of a li'ule grov.s fooner ri'ily than that whicli is on the land-fulc.

Thegreatelf (now falls here with the fouth-weit wind.'-, and feldom contiinies above
three or -four days, 'i'ho ordinary liio.v /all,; with t!ie north and north-well wiitds, and
docs nr.t lie fo dc; p on the ground near the fea as on the te)ps of mountains.

The frcll contimies till the fpring is pretty far advanced, the feverity of which occa-
fions great numbers of trouts and eels fo die ; but the w inter frolfs have not this ellect,
for which the inhabitants give this reafon, viz. that the rains being more frequent in
Oftober, do, in their opinion, carry the juice and quintelfence of the plants into tiiC
lakes, whereby tliey think the tifli are nouriihed during the winter; and there being no
fuch nour!ih*nent ia the fpring, in regard of the uninterrupted runniuij of the water,

which

VE8TURN ISLANDS OP SCOTLANt),

599

vvliich carries tlio juice with it to the foa, it ilcprivcs tli'» fifli of tliis nourinuncnt, and
c<>iilcq\u'iuly ol lilo. Ami ihty aJil fiirtlier, that ilic iilli have no iucclb to the I'lipcr-
fuies of ihc water, or to t!»e \muk of it, whore the jiiic-o mi^^ht be IkuI. The natives
are the more coiifirmeil in tliuir opinion, that tiu.' (illics In lakes ami inarfli-'s are ob-
fcrveti to out-iive both wiaror and fprin); fiolls. 'I'he eall-nonh-.'alt winis always pro-
cure fair wetuher here, as they do in all ihe north-welt iflanilfi ; and the raiiin are more
frequent in tliis [lace in (^.-lnher atui Ftl>ruai v ihan at anv otlirr time of the year.

Fountain-waicr drunk in winter is n ckonv'd by tin; natives to be nuicii more wholc-
fopic than in liie (pring ; I'lr in the Litter it caiifeth the diarrhea and dyltnteria.

'I'iie difeafes that prevail lu'rc,' are f.'vors, diarrhea and dyl'tiUeri.i, (littli, cou^h, feia-
tica, mcj^iini, the linalUpox, which commonly comes once in Icventeeii years time. The
ori'iinary cure for fevers is letting blood pleiitihdly : the diarrhea is cured bv drinkinj^
aquavitu.*, and the Wronger the better. 1 he ilAh and liver of feals are uled as abovo
mentioned, both for diarrliea and dyfenteria. Milk wherein lieclic flone has been
quenched, being frequently drunk, is likewife u good remedy for the two difeafes lad
mentioned.

The kernel of the b'ack ni-t found on the fliore, being beat to powder, and drunk
in milk or aqnavitic, is reckoned a good remedy lor the laid two dileales : Hitches are
cured fonielinus by letting blood.

Their connron cure for con>;li. is brochan, formerly mentioned. Tin; cafe of the
Carrara fowl, with the fat, bcinj^ |)owdercd a little and applied to tlie hip-bone, is an
approved remedy lor the fciatica. Since the great change of the feafons, which of late
years is b.-eonie more p-ercing ai.d col!, by which the growth of the corn both in the
fpring and fnmmer fealons are relard.d, there are lome diiealL-s dilcove-ed which were
not known here b;fore, viz a fpotied fever, whieli is coimnonly cured by drinking a
glafs of brandy or aquavitic liberaTy when the dil'cafe ftizjs them, and uling it till the
ipots a})pear outwardly. 'I'his ftjver wab brought hither by a (lran;!;er from the ifland of
IMull, who inil'cled thel'e oilier iliands. When the fever is violent, the fpots appear
the fecond day, but cnmmonly on the fourth duv, and then the difeal'e conus to acrilis
the feventh day : but it the ipots do not appear the fourth day, tlie difeal'e is reckoned
mortal; yet it has not proved fo here, though it h>is carried <.fl' fevcral in the other
adjacent iilands. The vulgar are accullomrd to apply Jiamula Jovis for evacuating
noxious humours, fuch as cau!e the head-ach, and pams in the arms or legs, and they
find great advantage by it. '1 he way of ufing it is thus : they take a quantity of it,
bruiled I'inall and put into a patella, and apply it fo to the (kin a litile below the place
ullected : in a fmall time it raifes ■ btider alunit the bignels of an CL'g, which, when
broke, voids ail the matter th a is in it ; then the (kin fills and fwclls twice agi.in, and
as often voids this matter, 'iliey uie the lia plant liiuirich to cure the wound, and it
proves efli ituul for this puvpofe, and alio for th- jncgrim and burning.

'I he broth <>f.i lamb, in which the phutsji'junfiijb m^ Alexander have been boiled, is
f')urd by experience to be good aga'nd coniumptions. 'I'he green lea-plant Unarich is
by tiiem applied to tO'- tenq)lesand forehead to dry up dtfluxions, and alfo for drawing
\ip the tonlei:-. Neil Macdonald, in the idand of lleilkir, is lubjecl to the falling of the
tonfels at every change of the mcon, and they coiuinueonly for the firft quarter. This
intirmity hath continued with him all his days, yet he is now feventy-two years of age.

J'hn l''ake, who lives in Pabble, in the parilh of Kilmoor, alias St. Mary's, is con-
Ifantly troubled with a great (neezing a day or two before rain ; and if the fheezing be
more than ufiial, the rain is faid to be greater j therefore he is culled the raiu-ahnanack.
!Ie liaH had this facvilty thefe nine vears pad.

' 8 There

M\\

ri'

i4 1

6oo

MARTIN S DESCRIPTION OF TUB

n I

There is a houfe in the village callcJ Arc! nin.boothin in the prirlfli of St. Marys ; and
tie houfe-cock the re never crows from the tenth of September till the middle of March.
'I his was told me tw;i years ago, and (iiice confirmed to me by the natives, and the prc-
ftnt minirter of the parifh.

The inb.abitants of this ifland are generally well-proportioned, of an ordinary laturo
and a gocid complexion ; healthful, and iome of (them come to a great age: feveral of
my acquaintance arrived at Mie age of ninety, and npward;i ; John Mac-donald of Grim-
inis was of this number, and died lately in the nineiy-third year oi his age. Donald l^oy,
who lived in the ille of Sand, and died lately in tlic hundrcilth year of his age, was able
to travel and manage his affairs till about two years before his death. They are a vol y
chavitaMe and hofpitable people, as is any where to be found. There was never an inn
here till of late, and now there is but one, which is not at all frequL'nted for eating, but
only tor drinking ; for the natives by thf ir hofpitality render this new-invented houfe
in a manner ufclefs. The great produce of barley draws many Grangers to ths ifland,
with a defign to procure as much of this grain as they can ; which they get of the in-
habitants gratis, only for alking, as they do horfes, cows, flieep, wcol, &c. I was told
fome months before my arrival there, that there had be-3n ten men in that place at one
tiine to afk coin gratis, and every one of thefe had fome one, fome two, and others
three attendants ; and during their abode there, they were all entertained gratis, no one
returning empty.

This is a great, yet vo'untary tax, which has continued for many ages ; but thi.' late
general fcarcity has given them an occafion to alter this cullom, by making ads againft
hbcr.dity, except to poor natives and objetls of charity.

Tlie natives are much addided to riding, the plainnefs of the country difpofing both
men and horfcs to it. l hey obftrve an anniverlary cavalcade on Michaelmas day, and
then all ranks of both fexes appear on horfe-back. The place for this rendezvous is a
large piece of fn in fandy ground on the fea-fliore, and there they have horle-racing for
fmall prizes for which they contend eagerly. There is an ancient cullom, bv which it
is lawful for any of the inhabitants to ileal his neighbour's horfe the night before the
race, and ride him all next day, provided he deliver him fafe and found to the owner
after the race. The manner of running is by a few young men, who ufe neither fad-
dies nor brioles, except two fmall ropes made of bent inllead of a bridle, nor any fort
of fpurs, but their bare heels : and when they begin the race, they throw thefe ropes
on their horfes' necks, and drive them on vigoroufly with a piece of long fea- ware in
each hand, inftead of a whip; and this is dried in the fun fevcr^I months before for
that purpofe. This is a happy opportunity for the vulgar, who have few occafions for
meeting, except on Sundays : the men have their fweet-hearts behind them on horfe-
back, and give and receive mutu;d prefents ; the men prolent the women with knives
and purfes, the women prefent the men with a pair of fine garters of divers colours,
they give them likewife a quantity of wild carrots. Thisifl: bt'longsin property to Sir
Donald Mac-donald of Skat : he and all the inhabitants are proteftants, one only ex-
cepted ; they oblerve Chirllmas, Good-Friday, and St. Michael's Day.

Tbe Ijle Benhccula^ its Dijlance^ Length, Dny, Mold, Grain, Fijl.\ Cattle, Frejl) Lakes,
Forts, a Stsne Tault, Nunnery, Proprietor.

THF- ifland of Benbecula lies diredly to the fouth of North Vifl, from which it is
two miles diilant ; the ground I cing all plain and Huidy between them, having two little
rivers or channels no higher than one's knee at a tide of ebb : this pafTayc is overflowed

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

601

by the fea every tide of flood, nor is it navigable except by boats. There are feveral
fmall iflands on the eaft-fide of this channel. This ifland is three miles in length from
fouth to north, and three from eaft to wed, and ten miles in compafs. The eafUfide is
covered with heath ; it hath a bay called Vilkway, in which fmall veiTels do fometimes
harbour, and now and then herrings are taken in it.

The mountain Benbecula, from which the ifle hath its name, lies in the middle of it :
the eaftern part of this ifland is all arable, but the foil fandy, the mould is the fame with
that of North-Vift, and affords the fame corn, fifli, cattle, amphibia, &c. There is no
venomous creature here. It hath feveral frefh-water lakes well (locked with filh and
fowl. There are fome ruins of old forts to be feen in the fmall iflands, in the lakes,
and on the plain.

There are alfo fome fmall chapels here, one of them at Bael-nin-killach, Id eji^ Nuns-
Town, for there were nunneries here in time of '-.opery. The natives have lately dif-
covered a (lone vault on the eaft-fide the town, ir. which there are abundance of fmall
bones, which have occafioned many uncertain conjei^ures ; fome faid they were the bones
of birds, others judged them rather to be the bones of pigmies. The proprietor of the
town inquiring Sir Normand Mackleod's opinion concerning thorn, he told him that
the matter was plain as he fuppofed, and that they mull be the bones of infants born by
the nuns there. This was very difagreeable to the Roman catholick inhabitants, who
laughed it over. But in the mean time the natives out of zeal took care to (hut up the
vault, that no accefs can be had to it fince ; fo that it would feem they believe what
Sir Normand faid, or ell'e feared that it might gain credit by fuch as afterward had oc-
cafion to lee tht.m. This ifland belongs properly to Ranal Mac-donald of Benbecula,
who, with all the inhabitants, are Roman Catholicks; ajid I remember I have feen an old
lay capuchin here, called in the language Brahir-bocht, that is, poor brother ; which
is literally true, for he anfwers this charadler, having nothing but what is given him :
he holds hiinfelf fully fatisfied with food and raiment, and lives in as great limplicity as
any of his order ; his diet is very mean, and he drinks only fair water : his habit is no
lefs mortilying than that of his brethren elfewhere ; he wears a fliort coat, which comes
no further than his middle, with narrow fleeves like a waiftcoat ; he wears a plad above
it girt about the middle, which reaches to his knee : the plad is fattened on his bread
with a wooden pin, his neck bare, and his feet often fo too : he wears a hat for orna-
ment, and the (Iring about it is a bit of fifher's line made of horfe-hair. This plad he
wears inftead of a gown worn by thofe of his order in other countries. I told him he
wanted the flaxen girdle that men of his order ufually wt-ar : ho anfwercd me, that he
wore a leather one, which was the fame thing. Upon the matter, if he is (poke to
when at meat, he anfwers again ; which is contrary to the cullom of his order. This
poor man frequently diverts himfolf with aiiglitig of trouts; he lies upon ftraw, and
had no bell (as others have) to call him to his devotion, but only his confcience, as he
told me.

The fpecklcdfalmons, defcribed in North-Vi(l, are very plontlfai on the weft fide of
this illand.

The ifland of South-Vift lies direftly two miles to the fouth of Benbecula, being in
length one and twenty miles, and three in breadth, and in fome places tour. The eaft-
fide is mouiU:»inou8 on the coalt, and heathy for the moll p;\rt : the wcft-fide is plain
arable ground, the foil is generally fandy, yielding a^i;ood produce ot barley, oats, and
rye, in proportion to that of North-Vill, and has the fatno fort of cattle. Both call
and welt fides of this ifland abound in ^refii- water lakes, which afford trouts and eels,

VOL. III. 4 H befides

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HARTIN's D£«CRIPTI9N 01 THB

\eCid& variety of land and fea fowls. The arable land is much damnilTed by the ovsr.
ftowing of thefe lakes in divers places, which they have not hitherto been able to drain,
{hovzb the thing be pradicable. Several lakes have old forts built upon the fmall
Ukmds in the middle of them. About four miles on the fouth-ea(t end of this ifland, is
Loch-F.ynord ; it reaches feveral miles weftward, having a narrow entry, which makes
f violent current, and within this entry there's a rock, upon which there was flaveJ to
pieces a frigate of Cromwell's which he fent there to lubdue the natives. Ambergreafo
hath been found by feveral of the inhabitants on the welt coalt of this ifland, and they
fold it at Qlafgow at a very low rate, not knowing the value of it at firit ; but when
they knpw it, they raifed the price to the other extreme. Upon a thaw after a long
froll the fouth-e.ll winds call many dead hHies on the (hore. The iiihalMtants are
generally of the fame nature and complexion with thofe of the next adjncmt northern
ijlands ; they wear the fame habit, and ufe the fame diet. One of the natives is very
fhntousfur hi-i great age, being, as it is faid, a hundred and thirty years oUl, and retains
his appetite and underdanding ; he can walk abroad, and did libourwith his hands as
Mfully, till within thefe thrte years, and for any thing I know is yet living.

1 here are feveral big kairnes of ftone on the eaft- fide ti is ifl.md, <inii the vulgar re-
tiiin the ancient cudom of making a religious tour round them on Sundays un.i huli.
days.

There is a valley between two mountains on the eafl-fide, called Gler.flyte, which
affords good paflurige. '1 he natives who farm l\ come thither with u.cir c ttle in the
fummer-time. and are poffifTeil with a firm belief that this v lley is hnuiUfd by fpiuts,
vho by theinb..bitants are c < Kd the Great Men ; and that whatfoever man or wian.ia
fnters the valley, without making firft an entire refignation of themfelves to the conduct
of the great men, will infallibly grow road. The words by which he or flie gives up.
himfelf to thefe men's conduft, arc comprehended in three fentences, wherein the Glen
is twice named ; to which they add, that it is inhabited by thefe great men, and that
fuch as enter depend on their protedion. 1 told the natives, that this was a piece of
fjlly credulity as ever was impofed upon the moit ignorant ages, and that their imagi-
ary proteftors deferved no fuch invocation. They anfwered, liiat there had happened
a late inftance of a woman who went into that Glen without rcfigning herfelf to the
condufl of thefe men, and immediately after Ihe became mad ; which confirmed thent
in their unreafonable fancy.

The people rt fiding here in fummer, fay they fometiines hear a loud noife in the air,
like men Ipiaking. I inquired if their prieft had preached or argued againft this lu-
perititious cullom ? They told me, he knew better things, and would not be guilty of
difl'uading men from doing their duty, which they doubted not he j'-Hged this to be;
and that they refolved to perfift in the belief of it, until thcv found better motives to the
contrary, than have been (hewed them hitherto. The piv.teftant minifter hath often
endeavoured to undeceive thtm, but in vain, becaufe of an implicit faith they have in
their prieft : and when the topicks of perfuafion, though never fo urgent, come from
one they believe to be a heretick, there is little hope of iuccels-

The ifland Erifca, about a mile in length, and three in circumference, is partly hcathv,
and partly arable, and yields a good produce. The inner-fi^o hath a wide anchorage,
there is excellent cod and ling in it ; the natives bej'iu to manage it better, but not to
tb^t advantage it .s cap ble of. The in all ifland near it was overgrown with heath,
and about three y ars a.o the ground threw up alt that heath troin the very root, fo
thiU tbeie is not auw one ihrub uf it in all this illund. buch as have occafion to travel

&a by

Jtf'

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 66^

by land between South-Vift and Benbecula, or Benbecula and North- Vift, had need of a
guide to direft them, and to obl'erve the tide when low, and alfo for crofling the chan-
nel at the right fords, elfe they cannot pafs without danger.

There are fome houfes under-gi'ound in this illand, and they are in all points like
thofe defcribed in North-Vill ; one of them is in the South Ferry-Town, oppofite to
Barray. The cattle produced here, are like thofe of North- Vift, and there are above
three hundred deer in this ifland : it was believed generally, that no venomous creature
was here, yet of late fome little vipers have been feen in the fouth end of the ifland.

The natives fpeak the Irifh tongue more perfectly here, than in mod of the other
iflands ; partly becaufe of the remotenefs, and the fmall number of thofe that fpeak
Englifli, and partly becaufe fome of them are fcholars, and verfed in the Irifii language.
They wear the fame habit with the neighbouring iflanders.

The more ancient people continue to wear the old drefs, efpeclally women : they are
a hofpitable well-meaning people, but the misfortune of their education difpofes them
to uncharitablenefs, and rigid thoughts of their protedant neighbours ; though at the
fame time they find it convenient to make alliances with them. The churches here are
St. Columba and St. Mary's in Hogh-more, the mofl: centrical place in the ifland ; Sit.
Jeremy's chapels, St. Peter's, St. Bannan, St. Michael, St. Donnan.

There is a ftone fet up near a mile to the fouth of Columbus's church, about eight
feet high, and two feet broad : it is called by the natives the Bowing-ftone ; for when
the inhabitants had the firft fight of the church, they fet up this ftone, and there bowed
and faid the Lord's Prayer. There was a buckle of gold found in Einort ground fome
twenty years ago, which was about the value of feven guineas.

As I came from South-Vift, I perceived about fixty horfemen riding along the fands,
direding their courfe for the eaft fea ; and being between me and the fun, they made a
great figure on the plain fands : we difcovered them to be natives of South-Vift, for
they alighted from their horfes, and went to gather cockles in the fands, which are ex-
ceeding plentiful there. This ifland is the property of Allan Mac-donald of Moydart,
head of the tribe of Mac-donald, called Clanronalds ; one of the chief families defcend-
ed of Mac-donald, who was Lord and King of the iflands. He and all the inhabitants
are Papifts, except fixty, who are Proteftants : the Papifts obferve all the feftivals of their
church, they have a general cavalcade on All-Saints Day, and then they bake St.
Michael's cake at night, and the family and ftrangers eat it at (upper.

Fergus Beaton hath the following ancient Iriftj manufcripts in the Irifli charafter ; to
wit, jivicenna, Averroesy Joannes de Vigo, Bernardus Gordonus, and feveral volumes of
Hypocraies.

The ifland of Barray lies about two leagues and a half to the fouth weft of the ifland
South- Vi(l ; it is five miles in length, and three in breadth, being in all refpeds like the
iflands lying diredly north from it. The eaft fide is rocky, and the weft arable ground,
and yields a good produce of the fame grain that both Vifts do : they ufe likewife the
fame way for enriching their laad with fea-ware. There is plenty of cod and ling got on
the eaft and fouth-fides of this ifland : feveral fmall fliips from Orkney come hither in
fummer, and afterward return loaden with cod and ling.

There is a fafe harbour on the north-eaft fide of Barray, where there is great plenty
offifli.

The rivers on the eaft fide afford falmons, fome of which are fpeckled like thefe men-
tioned in North-Vift, but they are more fuccefsful here in catching them. The natives
go with three feveral herring-nets, and lay them crofs-ways in the river where the fal-
mon are molt numerous, and betwixt them and the fea. Thefe falmon at the fight or

4 H 2 Ihadow

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6o4

martin's DBSCRiyTlOM OF TH8

Si)

fliadow of the people make towards the fea, and feeling the net from the furfece tp the
ground, jump over the fird, then the fecond, but being weakened, cannot get over the
third net, antl fo are catchod. They delight to leap above water, and fwim on the fur-
face : one of the natives told me, that he kdled a falmon with a gun, as jumping above
water.

They informed me alfo, that many barrels of them might be taken in the river above-
mentioned, if thore was any encouragement for curing and tranfporting them. There
are fevcral old forts to be fcen here, in form like thofe in the other iflands. In the
fouth end of this ifland there is an orchard, which produces trees, but few of them bear
fruit in re^'ard of their nearncfs to the foa. All forts of roots and plants grow plentifully
n it ; foine years ago tobacco did grow here, being of all plants the moli grateful to the
natives, for tiu^ illanJcrs love it mightily.

The little illand Kifmul li.s about a quarter of a mile from the fouth of this ifle ; it is
the feat of Mac-nell of Barray, there is a flone wall round it two flories high, reaching
the fea, and within the wall there is an old tower and an hall, with other houfes about
it. There is a little magazine in the tower, to which no ftranger has accefs. I faw the
pfEcer called the Cockman, and an old cock he is : when I bid him ferry me over the
water to the ifland, he told me that he was but an inferior officer, his buHnefs being to
attend in the tower ; but if (fays he) the conllable, who then Hood on the wall, will give
you accefs, I'll ferry you over. .1 defired him to i>rocure me the conllable's permiflion,
and I would reward him ; but having waited fome hours for the conflable's anfwer, and
not receiving any, I was obliged to return without feeing this famous fort. Macniel
and his lady being abfent, was the caufe of this difliculty, and of my not feeing the place.
I was told fome weeks after, that the conftable was very apprehenfive of fome defign I
might have in viewing the fort, and thereby to expofe it to the conqueft of a foreign
power; of which I luppofed there was no great caufe of fear. The natives told me
there is a well in the village Tangflill, the water of which being boiled, grows thick like
puddle. There is another well not far from Tangftill, which the mhabitants fay in a
fertile year throws up many grains of barley in July and Auguft. And they fay that
the well of Kilbar throws up embrios of cockles, but I could not difcern any in the ri-
vulet, the air being at that time foggy. The church in this ifland is called Kilbarr, i. e.
St. Barr's church. '1 here is a little chapel by it, in which Macneil, and thofe defcenJoJ
of his family, are ufually interred. The natives have St. Barr's wooden image (landing
on the altar, covered with linen in form of a fliirt : all their greatelt affcverations are
by this faint. I came very early in the morning with an intention to fee this image,
but was difappointcd ; for the natives prevented me, by carrying it away, lelt I might
take occafion to ridicule their fuperflition, as fome protelLmts iiavc done formerly :
and when I was gone, it was again expofed on the altar. They have fe'veral tradirion.s
concerning this great faint. There is a chapel Mahout half a mile on the fouth fide of
the hill near St. Barr's church) where 1 had occafion to get an account of a tradition con-
cerning this faint, which was thus: " the inhabitants having begun to build the church,
which they dedicated to him, tl'jy laid this wooden image within it, but it was invifibly
tranfported (as they fay) to the place where the church now iLiiuls, and found there
every morning." This miraculour, conveyance is the reafon they give tor defilling to
work where they firll began. I tuld my informer that this extnivrdinary motive was
fufficient to determine the cafe, if true, but alked his pardon to dillent from him, for 1
had not faith enough to believe this miracle; at which he was furprized, telling me in
the mean time that this tradition hath been faithfully conveyed by the priells and natives
fucc«.nivt-ly to this day. The fouthcrn illands are, i. Muldonifli, about a mile in cir-
cumference ;

ii'

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 6o$

cumference ; it is high in the middle, covered over with heath and grafs, and is the only
foreft here for maintaining the deer, being commonly about feventy or eighty in num-
ber. 2. The ifland Sandrcray lies foutherly of Barray, from which it is feparated by a
narrow channel, and is three miles in circumference, having a mountain in the middle;
it is defigned for pafturage and cultivation. On the fouth fide there is an harbour
convenient for fmall velfcls, that come yearly here to fifli for cod and ling, vvliich
abound on the coafl of this ifland. 3. The ifland Sandreray, two miles in circumfer-
ence is fruitful in corn and grafs, and feparated by a narrow channel from Vatterfay.
4. To the fouth of thefe lies the ifland Bernera, about two miles in circumference ; it
excels other illands of the fame extent for cultivation and fifhing. The natives never
go a fifliing while Macneil or his fteward is in the ifland, left feeing their plenty of fi(h,
perhaps tliey might take occafion to raife their rents. There is an old fort in this ifland,
having a vacuity round the walls, divided in little apartments. The natives endure a
great fatigue in manuring their ground with fea-ware, which they carry in ropes upon
their backs over high rocks. They likewife fallen a cow to a flake, and fprtad a
quantity of fand on the ground, upon v\hich the cow's dung falls, and this they mingle
together, and lay it on the arable land. They take great numbers of fea-fowls from
the adjacent rocks, and fait them with the aihes of burn^ fea-ware in cows' hides, which
prefervcs them from putrefaQion.

I'here is a fort of ftone in this ifland, with which the natives frequently rub their
breads by way of prevention, and fay it is a good prefervative for health. This is all
the medicine they ufe ; providence is very favourable to them, in granting them a good
Hate of health, fmce they have no phyfician among them.

The inhabitants are very hofpitable, and have a cuflom, that when any ftrangers from
the northern iflands refort thither, the natives, immediately after their landing, oblige
them to eat, even though they fnould have liberally eat and drunk but an hour before their
landing there. And this meal they call iJ/dy/a'-u; i. e. Ocean Meat ; for they prefume
that the (harp air of the ocean, which indeed furrounds them, muft needs give them a
good appetite. Aud whater number of ftrangers come there, or of whatibever quality
or ft'X, they are regularly lodged according to ancient cuflom, that is, one only in a
family ; by which cuflom a man cannot lodge with his own wife, while in this ifland.
Mr. John Campbell, the prefent minifler of Harries, told me, that his father being then
parfon of Harries, and minifter of Barray (for the natives at that time were Protellants)
carried his wife along with him, and refided in this ifland for fome time, and they dif-
pofed of him, his wife and fervants in manner above-mentioned : and fuppofe Macneil of
Barray and his lady fhouldgo thither, he would be obliged to comply with this ancient
cuflom.

'I'here is a large root grows among the rocks of this ifland lately difcovered, the na-
tives call it Cumin- iVtris, of a whitifh colour, and upwards of two feet in length, where
the ground is deep, and in fli:ipe and fize like a large carrot ; where the ground is not fo
deep, it grows much thicker, but fhorter : the top of it is like that of a carrot.

The rock Linmull, about half a mile in circumference, is indifferently high, andalm-ifl
inacceflible, except in one place, and that is by climbing, vvhich is verv difficult. 1 ma
rock abounds with fea-fowls that build and hatch here in lununer ; luch as the guille-
mot, coulter-neb, pulHn, &c. The chief climber is coiumonly called gingich, and this
name imports a big man having (Irength and courage proportionable. When they ap-
proach the rock with the boat, Mr. Gingich jumps out hril upon a flone on the rock-
fide, and then by the aHillance of a rope of horle-hair, he draws his fellows out of the
boat upoa this hi^h rock, and draws the refl up after him with the rope, till they all

6 arrive

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martin's DESCRlPTIOl* OF THE

arrive at the top, where they purchafe a confiderable quantity of fowls and epg».
Upon their return to the boat, this gingkh runs a great hazard, by jumping firfl into
the boat again, where the vioL'nt fea continually rages ; having but a few fowls more
than his fellows, befides a greater efteem to conipenlate his courage. "When a te-
nant's wife in this or the adjacent iflunds dies, he then addreffes hinifolf to Macneil of
Barray, rcprefenting his lofs, and at the fame time defires that he would be pleafed to
recommend a wife to him, without which he cannot manage his affairs, nor beget fol-
lowers to Macneil, which would prove a public lofs to him. Upon this reprefentation,
Macneil finds out a fuitable match for him ; and the woman's name being told him,
immediately he goes to her, carrying with him a bottle of ftrong waters for their en-
tertainment at marriage, which is then confummated.

When a tenant dies, the widow addrcffeth herfclf to Macneil in the fame manner,
who likewife provides her with a hulband, and they are niarried without any further
courtfliip. There is in this illand an altar dedicated to St. Chriftopher, at which the
natives perform their devotion. There is a done fet up here, about feven feet high ;
and when the inhabitants come near it, they take a religious turn round it.

If a tenant chance to lofe his milk-cows by the feverity of the icafon, or any other
misfortune ; in this cafe Macneil of Barray fupplies liim with the like number that he
loft.

When any of thefe tenants are fo far advanced in years that they are incapable to
till the ground, Macneil takes fuch old men into his own family, and maintains them all
their lives after. The natives obferve, that if fix (heep are put a grazing in the little
ifland Pabbay, five of them ilill appear fat, but the fixth a poor Ikeleton v but any num«
ber in this ifland not exceeding five are always very fat. There is a little ifland not far
from this, called Micklay, of the fame extent as Pabbay, and hath the fame way of feed-
ing (heep. Thefe little iflands aflfbrd excellent hawks.

The ifles above mentioned, lying near to the fouth of Barray, are commonly called the
Bifliop's Ifles, becaufe they are held of the bifliop. Some ifles lie on the eaft and north
of Barray, as Fiaray, Mellifay, Buya Major and Minor, Lingay, Fuda ; they afford paf-
turage, and are commodious for fifliing ; and the latter being about two miles in cir-
cumference, is fertile in corn and grafs. There is a good anchoring place next to the
iflc on the north-eaft fide.

The Reward of the lefler and fouthem iflands is reckoned a great man here, in re-
gard of the perquifites due to him ; fuch as a particular fhare of all the lands, corn,
butter, chcefc, filh, &r. which thefe iflands produce : the meafure of barley paid him
by each f.imily yearly is an omer, as th ;y call it, contain-ng about two pecks.

There is an inferior officer, who alfo hath a right to a fhare of al! the fame produ£ls.
Next to thefe come in courfe thofe of the lowcfl pofls, fuch as the cockman and porter,
each of whom hath his refpedive due, which is pundually paid.

Macntil of Barray, and all his followers, are Roman Catholic*:, one only excepted,
viz. Murdock Macneil ; and it may perhaps be thought no i'niall virtue in him to ad-
here to the Protectant communion, confidering the difadvantages he Kibours under by
the want of bis chief's favour, which is much leflened for being a heretic, as they call
Mm. All the inhabitants obferve the anniverfary of St. Barr, being the 27th of Sep-
tember ; it is performed riding on horfeback, and the folemnity is concluded by three
turiw round St. Harr's church. This brings into my mind a (lory which was told me
concerning a foreign priell, and the entertainment he met with alter his arrival there
fome years ago, as fWllows : this priell happened to land here upon the very day, and at
the particular hour of this fulemnity, which was the more acceptable to the inhabitants,

who

WESTERN ISLANDS UF SCOTLAND.

6oy

who then defired him to preach a commemoration fermon to the honour of their patron
St. Barr, according to the ancient cuftom of the place. At this the prit-lt was fur-
prifed, he never having heard of St. Barr before that day ; and therefore knowing no-
thing of his virtues, could fay nothing concerning him : but told them, that if a fermon
to the honour of St. Paul or St. Peter could pleafe them, they might have it indantly.
This anfwer of his was ib difagreeulde to them, that iliey plainly told him he could be
no true prielt, if he had not iieard of St. Barr, for the pope himfelf had heard of him ;
but this would not perfuade the pried, fo that they parted much diflatisfied with one an-
other. 'J'hey have likewife a general cavalcade on St. Michael's day in Kilbar village,
and do then alfo take a turn round their church. Every family, as foon as the fo.
lemnity is ended, is accudomed to bake St. Michael's cake, as above defcribed j and all
flran-'ers, together with thofe of the family mult cat the bread that night.

This ifland, and the adjacent Icffer iflands, belong in property to Macneil, being the
thirty lourth of that name by lineal defcent that has polVelfed this ifland, if the prefent
gencalogcrs may be cr.^dited. He holds his lands in vaflalage of Sir Donald Macdonald
of Sia-e, to whom he pays 40I. per ann. and a hawk, if required, and is obliged to fur-
nilh him a certain number of men upon extraordinary occafions.

7 he ancient and modern Cujiomi of the Inhabitants of the Wejlern IJtands of Scotland,

EVERY heir, or young chieftain of a tribe, was obliged in honour to give a public
fpecimen of his valour, before he was owned and declared governor or leader of his
peopk', who obeyed and followed him upon all occafions.

This ciiieftain was ufually attended with a retinue of young men of quality, who had
not beforehand given any proof of their valour, and were ambitious of fuch an op»
portunity to fignalize theinfelvcs.

It was ufual for the captain to lead them, to make a defperate incurfion upon fome
neighbour or other that they were in feud with ; and they were obliged to bring by
open force the cattle they found in the lands they attacked, or to die in the attempt.

After the performance of this atchievement, the young chieftain was ever after re-
puted valiant and worthy of government, and fuch as were of his retinue acquired the
like reputation. This cultom being reciprocally ufed among them, was not reputed
robbery ; for the damage which one tribe fultained by this eflay of the chieftain of an-
other, was repaired when their chieftain came in his turn to make his fpecimen : but
I have not heard an iiiftance of this pradice for thefe fixty years part.

The formalities obferved at the entrance of thefe chieftains upon the government of
their clans were as follow :

A heap of ftones was erefted in form of a pyramid, on the top of which the young
chieftain was placed, his friends and 'followers ftanding in a circle round about him,
his elevation fi^nifying his authority over them, and their Handing below their lub-
jedion to him. One of his principal friends delivered into his hands the fword wore
by his fatht-r, and there was a white rod delivered to him likewife at the fame time.

Inuncdiattly after the chief druid (or orator) (hiod elofe to the pyramid, and pro-
nounced a rhetorical panegyrick, fi.tting forth the ancient pedigree, vaiour, and libe-
rality of the iainily, as incentives ti> the young chieftain, and lit for his imitation.

It was their culloni, when atiy chieftain marched upon a military expedition, to drav/
fome blood from the tirlt animal that chanced to meet them upon the cnoiuv's ground,,
and thereafter to Iprmkle fome of ii upon their colours. This they reckoned as a good
omen ot future fuccels.

They

%
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6o8

martin's description of TH8

They had their fixed officers, who were ready to attend them upon all occafiori,
whether military or civil. Some fan\ilics continue them from lather to fon, particularly
Sir Donald Macdonald has his principal llandard-bearcr and qiiartor-mafter. The latter
has aright to all the hides of cows killed upon any of the occafions mentioned above;
and this I have feen exaded punttually, though the ofTicor had no charter for the fame,
but only cullom.

They had a conftant centinel on the top of their houfrs called gockmin, or, in the
Englilh tongue, cockman ; who was obliged to watch day and night, and, at the ap-
proach of any body, to alk, " Who comes there ?" This oflicer is continued in Barray
lUll, and has the perquifues due to his place paid him duly at two terms in the year.

There was a competent number of yt vnig gentlcmtn, called I.uchktaeht or Guard de
CorpSy who always attended the chieftain ai home and abroaii. Thiy were well trained
■in managing the fword and target, in wivltling, fwimming, jumping, dancing, (hooting
with bows and arrows, and were llout iVamon.

Every chieftain had a bold armour-bearer, whofe bufinefs was always to attend the
pcrfon of his mailer night and day to prevent any iurprizc, and this man was called
Calloglach ; he had likewife a double portion of meat afligm-tl iiim at every meal. The
meafure of meat ufually given him, is called to this day bicyfir, that is, a man's por-
tion ; meaning thereby an extraordinary man, whofo ftrength and courage dilUnguiflied
him from the common fort.

Before they engaged the enemy in battle, the chief druid harangued the army to ox-
cite their courage. He was placed on an eminence, from whence he addroflld hinw
felf to all of them (landing about him, putting them in mind of what great tliinus were
performed by the valour of their ancellors, railed their hopes with the noble rewards
of honour and viftory, and difpelled their fears hy all the topics that natural courage
could luggeft. After this harangue, the army gave a general Ihout, and then charged
the enemy ftoutly. This, in the ancient language, was called brofuichiy kah^ i. e. an in-
centive to war. This cullom of (houiing aloud is believed to have taken its rife from
an inftinft of nature, it being attributed to moll nations th.u have been of a martial
genius: as by Homer to the Trojans, by I'acitns to the Germans, by Livy to the Gauls.
Every great family in the ides had a chief druid, who foretold future events, and de-
cided all caules civil and ecclefiaitical. It is reported of them that they wrought in thi?
night-time, and relied all day. Ca;far fays they worlhipped a deity under the name of
Taramis, or Taran, which, in Wellh fignities thunder ; and in the ancient language of
the Highlanders, Torin f'gnilies thunder alio.

Another God of the Britons was Belus, or Belinu*, which feems to have been the
AlTyrian God Bel, or Behis ; and prohal.ly from this P.e;iin deity comes the Scots terai
of Beltiii, ttie day ot May, luiviiii; its full rilo from the cullom pradilcd

by the druids in the ides, of extinguilhing all the (ires in the pariiti until the tythes
were paid j and upor> payment of them, the (ires were kindled in each family, and
never till then. In tliofc days mrlefaclors were burnt between two fins ; hence when
t'.ity wouM ixprels a man to l)e in a great ilrait, tliey f.iy, " hf is Iv twetn two tires of
Bel," which in th< ir lan^;uage they exprels thus, Edir da bin Vcaui cr Bel. Some
objed that the druit's c-ould not be in the illes, becauie no oaks grow there. To which
I anlwer, that in ihole days oaks •"'id grow there, and to this dav there be oaks growinj^
ii>. fome uf them, particularly in Sleat, the molt Iburhern part of the illec Skie. Thj
houies named aiter iliole druids (hall be deloribed eltewhere.

The manner of drinking uled by the chief men of the illes, is called in their lantrn I'^e
tireabt '• ^- ^ round j for the company fat ia a circle, the cup.bearer tilled the drink

round

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. ' 6og

round to them, and all was drank out, whatever the liquor was, whether flrong or
weak ; ihey continued drinking foniptimcs twenty-four, i'oinctimes forty-eight hours ;
it was reckoned a piece of nianliood to drink until they became drunk, and there wcrtx
two men with a b;irnnv attending punftually on fuch occafions. They Hood at the
door until fome bocanie drunk, and tliey carried them upon the borrow to bed, anc\
returned again to their poll: as long as any continued frelh, and fo carried off the whole
company one by one as they became drunk. Several of my acquaintance have been
witncflcs to tliis cudom of dnni<.ing, but it is now abolifhed.

Amonj; perfons of diHindlon it \va^ rt-ckoned an allVont upon any company to broach
a piece of wine, ale, or aquavita, and not to fee it all drank out at one meeting. If
any man chance to go out from the company, though but for a few minutes, he is
obliged upon his return, and biforo he tcd\o his fear, to make an apology for his ab-
fence in rhyme ; which, if he cannot perform, he is liable to fuch a fiiare of the reckon-
ing as the company thinks lit 'to impore ; which cuUom obtains in many places Hill,
and is called heanchiy bnrd, which, in tiieir language, fignifies the poet's congratulating
the company.

It haih been an antient cuftom in thcfe iilcs, and ftill continues, when any number
of men retire into a houfe, either to dilcourfe of ferious bufmefs, or to pafs fome time
in drinking ; upon thefo occafions the door of the houfe (lauds open, and a rod is put
crofs the fame, which is underftood to be a fign to all perfons without diftind^ion not
to approach : and if any fhould be fo rude as to take up this rod, and come in un«
called, he is fure to be no welcome gueft ; for this is accounted fuch an affront to the
company, that they are bound in honour to refent it ; and the perfon offending may
come to have his head broken, if he do not meet with a hardier reception.

The chieftain is ufually attended with a numerous retinue when he goes a hunting
the deer, this being his firft fpecimcn of manly exercife. All his clothes, arms, and
hunting-equipage are, upon his return from the hills, given to the forefter, according to
cuftom.

Kvery family had commonly two ftewards, which, in theii language, were called
marifchall laeh : the firft of thefe ferved always at home, and was obliged to be well
. vericd in the pedigree of all the tribes in the iiles, and in the Highlands of Scotland ;
for it was his province to allign every man at table his feat according to his quality ;
and this was done without one word fpeaking, only by drawing a fcore with a white
rod which this tnarifchall had in his hand, before the perfon who was bid by him to fit
down : and this was ncceffary to prevent diforder and contention ; and, though the
marijchall might fomctimes be miftaken, the mafter of the family incurred no cenfure
by luch an efcape ; but this cuftom has been laid afide of late. 'Ihey had alfo cup-
bearers, who always filled and carried the cup round the company, and he himfeif
drank off the firll i! -aught. They had likewife purfe-maftcrs, who kept their money.
Both thefe officers h.id an hereditary right to their office in writing, and each of them
had a town and land for his fervicc : for fome of thofe rights I have ften fairly written
on good parchment.

Befides the ordinary rent paid by tho tenant to his mafter, if a cow brought forth
two calves at a time, which indeed is extraordinary, or an ewe two lambs, which is fre-
quent, the tenant paid to the mafter one of the calves or lambs ; and the mafter, on his
part, was obliged, if any of his tenants' wives bore twins, to take one of them, and
breetf him in his own family. I have known a gentleman who had fixteen of thefe twins
in his family at a time.

VOL. 111. 4 1 Their

6io

martin's dbicription or tub

Their ancient leagues of friendfhip wore ratified by drinkinpf a drop of each other's
blood, which was commonly drawn out of tiie little finger. Tins waj roligioufly vtb-
IVrvfd as a lacred bond ; and if any perfon after fuch an alliance happened to violate
the famr, he was from that time reputed unworthy of all honed men's converf.ition.
Before money became current, the chieftains in the iflos bellowed the cow's head, ftct,
and all the entrails upon their dependents ; fuch as the phyfician, orator, poet, bard,
niuficians, &:c. and the fame was divided thus : the fmich had the head, the piper had
the, kc.

IT was an ancient cuflom among the iflandcrs to hang a he-goat to the boat'., mafl:,
hoping thereby to procure a favourahle uiiu! : but this is not prac'lifed at prefcnt j
though I am told it hath been done once by lome of the vulgar within thcfe thirteen
years lait part.

They had an univerfal cuflom of pouring a cow's milk upon a little hill, or big fton?,
vhere the fpirit called Browny was believed to lodge: this fpirit always app^Mred in
the fhapc of a t.ill man, having very long brown hair. There was fcarce any the leaft
village in which this luperllitious tuftom did not prevail. I enquired the reafon of it
from feveral well-meaning women, who until of late had pradifed it ; and they told me
that it had been tranfmitted to them by their ancellors luccefsfully, who bilieved it was
attended with good fortune, but the mofl credulous of the vulgar had now laid it atldc.
It was an ordinary thing among the over-curious to confult an invifible oracle concern-
ing the fate of families and battles, &c. This was performed three different ways : the
firll was by a company of men, one of whom being detached by lot, was afterwards
carried to a river, which was the boundary between two villages ; four of the company
laid hold of him, and having (hut his eyes, they took him by the legs and arms, and
then tolling him to and again, ftruck his hips with force againil the bank. One of them
cried out, " What is it you have got here ?" Another anfwers, " A log of birch-
wood." The other cries again, " Let his invifible friends appear from all quarters, and
let them relieve him by giving an anfwer to our prefent demands ;" and in a few mi-
nutes after a ninnber of little creatures came from the lea, who anfwered the qu(;llion,
and difappeared fuddenly. The man was then fet at liberty, and they all returned
home, to take their nieafures according to the predidion of their falfe prophets ; but
the poor deliuli d fools were abufed, for the anfwer was flill .nmbiguous. This was
always pradifed in the night, and may literally be called the works of darknefs.

I had an account from the mofl intelligent and judicious men in the ifle of Skie, that
about fixty-iwo years ago the oracle was thus confulled oidy once, and that was in the
parifh of Kilniartiii, on the eaft fide, by a wicked and milchievous race of people, who
are now extinguilhed both root and branch.

The fccond way of confulting the oracle was by a p-irty of men, who firfl retired to
folitary places, remote from any hoiife, and there they iingled out one of tlieir number,
and wrapt him in a big cow's hide, which they folded about him : his whole body was
covered with it except his head, and fo left in this pollnrc all night,, until his invifible
friends relieved him, by giving a proper anfwer to the quclHon in hand ; which he re-
ceived, as he fancied, from feveral perfons that he found about liim all tliut time. His
conforts returned to him at brc:ikof day, and then iie cuninumieated his news to them ;
which cfien proved fatal to thole concern^! in fuch unwarrantable enquiries.

There was a third way of confulting, which wa^ a confirniaiion of the fecond above
mentioned. The fame company w ho put llie man into the liiJe, took a live cat and put
him on a fpit } one Oi the uuijij.-r w.-s einploved to turn the ipit, and one of his con-

6 forts

WESTERN ISLANDS OP SCOTLAND.

6ii

forts enquired of him, " What are you doing?" IIi* anfwered, " 1 roafl this cat until
his friends anfwer the quctlioa j" which mull be the fame that was propofed by the
man (hut up in the hide. And aftcrwarJs a very big cat comes, attended by a number
of Icfler cats, defiring to relieve tlie cat turned upon the fpit, and then anfwers the
quediun. If this aniwer proved tlie fame that w;i", given to the man in the hide, then it
was taken as a confirmation of the other, which in this cafe was believed infallible.

Mr. Alexander Cooper, prcfent minilKr of North-Vill, told me that one John Erach,
in the ille of Lewis, aif'ired him that it was his fate to have been led by his curiofity
with fomc who confulted this oracle, and that he was a night within the hide, as above
mentioned ; iluring which time he felt and hf^ard fuch terrible things, that he could not
exprefs them : the impreflion it made on him was fuch as could n-jver go off, and he
faid that for a thoufand worlds he would never again be concerned in the like perfor-
mance, for this had difordcred him to a hiyh degree. He conf:ficd it ingenuoudy, and
with an air of great rcmorfc, and feomed to be very penitent under a jufl fenfe of fo
great a crime: he declared this about five years fincc, and is flill living in the ifland of
Lewis, for any thing I know. The inhabitants here did alfo make ufe of a fire called
Tin-egin, i. e. a forced fire, or fire of ncceffity, which they ufed as an antidote againft
the plague or murrain in cattle ; and it was perfortned thus : all the fires in the parilh
were extinguidied, and then eighty-one married men, being thought the neceflary num-
ber for eftVdling this defign, took two great planks of wood, and nine of them were
employed by turns, who by their repeated eftbrts rubbed one of the planks againft the
other until the heat thereof produced fire ; and from this forced fire each family is
fupplied with new fire, which is no fooner kindled than a pot full of water is quickly
fet on it, and afterwards fprinkled upon the people infefted with the plague, or upon
the cattle that have the murrain. And this they all fay they find fuccefsful by experi-
ence : it was pradlifed in the main land, oppofite to the fouth of Skie, within thefe thirty
years.

They preferve their boundaries from being liable to any debates by theit fucceflbrs
thus : they lay a quantity of the afhes of burnt wood in the ground, and put big (lones
above the fame ; and for conveying the knowledge of this to poiterity, they carry fon:.e
boys from both villages next the boundary, and there whip them foundly, which they
will be fure to remember, and tell it to their children. A debate having rifen betwixt
the villages of Ofe and Groban in Skie, they found allies as above mentioned under a
Hone, which decided the controverfy. It was an ancient cuftom in the iflands, that a
man ihould take a maid to his wife, and keep her the fpace of a year without marrying
her } and if Ihe pleafod him all the while, he married her at the end of the year, and
legitimated thefe children ; but if he did not love her, he returned her to her parents
and her portion alfo ; and if there happened to be any children, they were kept by the
father : but this unrcufonable cuftom was long ago brought into difufe.

It is common in thefe iflands when a tenant dies, for the mader to have his ciioice of
all the horfes which belonged to the deceafed ; and this was called the eachfuin horizcida^
i. e. a lord's gift : for the firft ufe of it was from a gift of a horfe gi-anted by all the

fubjeds in Scotland for relieving King from his imprifonment in England.

There was another duty payable by all the tenants to their chief, though they did not
live upon his lands ; and this is called calpkh : there was a Handing law for it alio, called
Cii/picj-hw ; and I am informed that this is exacted by fume in the main land to this day.

Women wore anciently denied the ufe of writing in the iflands, to prevent love in-
trigues : their parents believed that nature was too ikilful in that matter, and needed not

4 I a the

.^ii

r!^,^'

6i^ maktin's description o)- rim

the lielp of cJuc uion ; anJ liierotbro that writing would be of dangerous coulcqucnct*
to tlic w.'ak'jr li'X.

'I tie oralors, in tlicir l.nipu;i|»c calLd [/"djn •, wore in high eflc'cm both in thefe illanda
an.l the ciwuiiieiit ; U'ltil wiiliin thcle lorty years ih-'y fat always am.'U ; tli- i\oblt8 anJ
chifi's ot f.iinilics iii the /ircih or circle. 'I'hcir iuiufes unJ hitlc villjj^oB were fanc-
tu irie-?, as well a.s cliiirehos, and they took place before dr,d>)rs ul' p' y.i,-. 'I'lu- orators,
alter th.' JruiJs vn re cxiinit, wore br'u.'ht in to prJlrve ilie j;i iv .il.nry of f.iiuilies,
and to repeat tlie tame at every fucc<.irioa of u cliiof ; and upon the oi-calioti ol mar*
riaijcs and I irths, th-y uiavie ipitlialanuunis and pincL,yrics, whicli the po t or bard
proiiojiieed. 'riie orators by ilie lorce of t!uir ''loqik'nce hail a povscr.'ul afcendant
over the ;,'rcatell men i|i their time ; for If any oratiir did but alk tiu- habit, arnvs, horfe,
or any oih^'r tliiM):[ beloni'iuj; \n tlie ^r acil nvn in tli"!'' iflaiuls, it wa^ nMuilv granted
tliv-'tn, fonulimesout oi ixipect, and lonieiini. s tor ti^r of btiii^ exclaimed a.;ainll l)y a
fatiro, which in thole days was reckoned a great diflionour : but tiuto gentleman be-
coiiii .'i] inlo!>nt, lull ivir Twice both tlie prulit and elleem which wao formerly due to
their tharader ; for neither thar panegyrics nor fatires are regarded to what thi.y have
bjcn, and they are now allowed but a fmall lulary. I muft not omit to relate their
way of lliidy, whiih is wry lingular: they Ihut "their doors and windows for a day's
time,and lie on iluir backs, with a Hone upun their belly, and plaiJs about their heads,
and their eyes beiii^ covered, they pump their bruins for rhetorical eiiconiiuni or
panegyric; and indeed they turnifh lucli a Hyle from tliisd.irk cell ar. is uiulerllood by
very jew ; and if they purchafe a couple ol horfes as the rewaul of their meditation,
they think they have tlone a great matter. The poet or bard had a title to the bride-
groom's upper garb, t!.Jt is, the plaid and Iionnct ; but now he is fatisfied with what
the bridegruom pleales to give him on fucii eiccufioiis.

There was an anciuit cuttom in the itlaml of I^ewis, to make a fiery circle about the
houfes, corn, cattle, 5ce. belonging to each particular family : a in.m carried fire in hi*
right hand, and went ri)uiul, and it was cal ed i/<}//7, from the right hand, which in the
ancient language is called iL/s. An intlance of tliis round was performed in the vil-
lage Sh.idir, ia Lewis, about lixteen years ago (as I was told), but it proved fulal to
the practifer, called Mac-Calhim ; for after he had carefully pi r' 'vmed this round,
that very night following he and his family were fadly lurprife '. and ail his houlis, corn,
tattle, iS;c. were coiilumed with (ire. 'I his luperllitious cu.toui is quite abolilhed now,
for there has not been above ihii one inllance of it in to, !y years p.iif.

There is another way of the (i(//.I, or carrying fire reunU al'oiit women before tlioy
are churched, after Llnkl-bearing ; and it is ided lik «ife about cliildr- ii until they aie
chriileiud; both which are p. rfi/rm^d in the ii.-^t;;;iig and at night. Ihisison'y
praclifed yow by f./ine of the ancient iniilwivi.s: I .i. quired iluir realon for this cultoi.i,
which I ti Id them was alteg^thr unlawful ; this iliUibliged them migluily, inf. much
that the) would give me no lat;^laction. IJut i thers, that were of a mure agreeable
ttiiijjer, t "Id me iliat lire-round w. is an efuxtual means to prefcrve both tlie inotinr
and the iiitai:i f em the powir of evil fpirits, who are ready at fuch tinu's to do mil-
chief, and foiuciimts cariy ii^^-^y the ii.f i.t ; and w iien thi.y get tli.m once in thiir
poireliioii, r! turn tlmii p or lueagre (kekt' us : and tliefe iiitahis are liiid to have voii-
cious ;ipprtites, conilantly cravhig for \iv ::i. In this cafe it was ulual with thofe who
beli-vidtii.it their children wei(," thus taken awav, to dig a grave in the fields upon
quarter-day, and thereto lay the iairy ikti. ton till m xt mor:iii)g ; at whicli lime tlie
partnis went to the place, wh.trc they doubted not to find their own child inllead el

ti.i-.;

WESTURN ISLANDS OP SCOTLAND.

613

tliis fkcleton. Some of the poorer fort of people in thofe idanclH retain the ciiftom of
pirlt)iniii>n thole ruuiuls fun w.i\s about tlie perfoiis of thtir bi nef.idnrs thrte times,
whi'ii they blefu ihein, aiiJ widi loolI fuccefs to cill their cnrerprizos. Some are very
careful whi 11 they fet out tn I. .1 that the boar be firft rowed about funways ; and it this
be mgli'Ck'd, they are afraiii tlieir voy.i^e mav prov(.' unfortunate. I had this cere-
mony paid me when in the ifland of lla) by a poor woman, after I had given her an
ahns : I defin d her to let alone that complini'nt for I did not care for it ; i ut flie
jiilillcd to make tJK.'ie three ordin.iry turns, and tli.n prayed that (Jodaiid Mac C;ha>"mig,
the patron I int of that illand, mij;lit blefs and profper me in all my deli^ns and alTairs.

I attempt I. d twice to go from lla to Colli nd'ay, and at both times th.-y rowed about
the boat lun-w.iys, ihouf^h I h»rbid lb in to do it ; and by a ci)iitiary wind the boat
and thole in it were forced biek. I took boat again a thirvl time from Jura to Col-
lonl.iy, and at the lame time forbid them to row about tin ir boat, which they obeyed,
and then we landed f.ifJy at Co'li'nfay without any ill adventure, which fome of the
crew did not be ieve pofTible, for want of the u)und ; but this one inllance hath con-
vinced them ot the vanity of this luperiliiious ceremcniy. i\nothcr ancient culloiu
cblerved on the fecund of February, which the papifls there yet retain, is this : the
niillrefs and fervants of each f;imily take a fluaf of oats, and drefs it up in women's
apparel, put it in a lar^o balket, and lay a wooden clubby it, and this they call Briuh-
btd\ atid then the miitrefs and fervants cry three times, Briid is come, briiJh welcome.
'1 his thi y do jnll before going to bed, and when thev rife in the morning they lo k
among the aflus, expeiling to fee the iiiipreffion ol Briid*^ club there; which if they
do, till y reckon it a true prefago of a good crop and profperous year, and the contrary
they t.ike as an ill omen.

It has been an ancient cuflom amonyfl the natives, and now only ufjd by fome olJ
people, to Iwrar by their chii f or laird's hand.

\Vh. n a dib.ite arifes between two perfons, if one of them aflert the iriatter by your
father's luind, they r<ckon it a great indignity ; hut it uey go a degree hij.rher, and out
of Ipite fay, I y your father and grandfather's hand, the next word is commonly accom-
panied with a blow

It is a reciived opinion in thefc iflands, as well as in the neighbouring part of the
main laiul, th.'.t wt nien by a charm, or fome other fecret way, ire able to convey the
increaCe of their neighbovn's cows milk to their own ule ; and th n the milk fo charmed
doth nit produce the ordinary quatuity of butter; and the cuids made of that milk
arc fo tough, th.at it cannot be made fo hrm as other cheofe, and is alio much liuhter
in viei Jit. 1 he butter fo taken away, and joined to the charm'r's butter, is evidently
difcernihie hv a uiaik of reparation, viz. the diverfity of colours ; mat which is charmed
being IHII pakr ihan that part of the butter which hath not been charmed ; and if butter
having thele inaiks be found with a lul'pefted wom<in, flu- is pr, lently laid to be guilty.
Their ufual e. ay of recovering this lof<, is to take a little of th^ rennet from all the fuf-
pcded pcvlons, and pvit ir in an egg-fhell full of miu, and when that from the charmer
is ni.ngkd with it, it prelmtly curdles, and not before.

'Ihiti was alVerted to me by the generality of the mofl judicious people in thefe iflands;
fome of tlicm having, .is they told me, come to the kno^v ledge of it t<i their coll. Some
women make uli' of the root ot groundlel as an amulet againd fuch charms, by putting
it among their cream.

Both men ami women in thofe iflands, and in the neighbouring main hnd, aflirin
that the increalc ol milk is likewife taken away by trouts, if it happen that the diflies ov
pails wherein the milk is kept, be walhed in the rivulets where trouts are : and the way

■if ''

;'!

ii;

riij

■■:i

1 i

614 martin's DESCRtFTION OF THE

to recover this damage is by taking a live trout and pouring milk into its mnufh ; vhich
they fay doth prefently curdle, if was taken away by trouts, but otherwile thoy fay it
is not.

They affirm likewife that fome women have an lirt to take away the milk of nurfcs.

I faw four women whofe milk were tried, that one might be chofcn for a nurfe; and
the woman pitched upon was after three days' fuckling deprived of her milk ; whereupon
fhe was fent away, and another put in her place ; and on the third day after, fhe tliat
was firft chofen recovered her milk again. This was concluded to be the effect of
witchcraft by fome of her neighbours.

They alfo fay that fome have an art of taking away the incrcafe of malt, and that the
drink made of this malt hath neither life nor good tafte in it ; and on the "ontrary, tlie
charmer hath very good ale all this time. A gentleman of my acquai \dnce, for the
fpace of a year, could not have a drop of good ale in hishoufe ; and having complained
of it to all that converted with him, he was at laft advifed to get fome yeait from every
alehoufe in thepariHi ; and having got a little from one particular man, he put it among
his wort, which became as good ale as could be drank, and fo defeated the charm. After
which the gentleman in whofe land this man lived baniflicd him thirty-fix miles from
thence.

They fay there are women who have an art ot taking a mote out of one's eye, though
at fome miles diftance from the party grieved ; and this is the only charm thefe wo-
men will avouch themfelves to underftand, as fome of them told me, and feveral of thefe
men, out of whofe eyes motes were then taken, confirmed the truth of it to me.

All thefe iflanders, and feveral thoufands on the neighbouring continent, are of opi.
nion, that fome particular perfons have an evi\ eye, which affeds children and cattle ;
this they fay occaficns frequent mifchances, and fomctimes death. 1 could name fome
who are believed to have this unhappy faculty, though at the fame time void of any iU
defign. This hath been an ancient opinion, as appears from that of the poet :

Ne/cit qms tenerot oculus mibi fajjimt agnos.

Courts of Judicatory,

AT the firft plantation of thefe ifles, all matters wefe managed by the fole authority
of the heads of tribes, called in the Irifli thianiOf which was the fame with tyrannus, and
now it fignifies lord or chief, there being no ftandard .if equity or jufticc but what flowed
from them ; and when their numbers increafed, they erected courts called pwdct and in
the Englilh, baron courts.

The proprietor has the nomination of the members of this court ; he h'mfelf is prc-
fidettt of it, and in his abfence his bailiff; the niinifttr of the parilh is always a member
of it. There are n'^ attomies to plead the caufe of either party, for both men and
women reprefent their refpeQi»e caufes; and there is always a fpeedy decifion, if the
parties have their witnefles prefent, &c.

There is a peremptory fentence pafles in court for ready payment ; and If the party
againft whom judgment is piven prove refraSory, the other may fend the coniuiou
oiBcer, who has power to diltrain, and at the fame time to exart a fine of twenty pounds
Scots, for the ufe of the proprietor, and about two m^irks for hinifelf.

The heads of tribes had their ofJenfive and defenfive leajnies, called bonds nf man-
drate and manrent in the Lowlands, by which each party was obliged to afliit one anO'
ther upon all extraordinary emergencies : and though the differences between thofc

chivfuiins

WESTERN XSLAKDS Of SCOTLAVD. 615

chieftains involved feveral confederates in a civil war, yet they obliged themfelves by
the bond mentioned above to continue ftt-dfaft in their duty to their fovereign.

When the proprietor gives a farm to his tenant, whether for one or more years, it is
cuftomary to give the tenant a (tick of wood, and fome ilraw in his hand : this is immo>
diately returned by the tenant again to his mailer, and then both parties are as much
obliged to perforin their refpeiSlive conditions, as if they had figned a leafe or any other
deed.

Church DlfcipUne.

EVERY parifh in the weftern ifles has a church judicature, called the confiftory, or
kirk-liellion, where the minifter prefides, and a competent number of laymen, called
elders, meet with him. They take cognizance of Icandals, cenfure faulty perfons, and
with that ftridtnefs, as to give an oath to thofe who are fufpefted of adultery or forni-
cation ; for which they are to be proceeded againlt according to the cuftom of the
country. They meet after divine forvice ; the chief heretor of the parifh is preient, to
concur with them, and enforce their adts by his authority, which is irrefiflible within
the bounds of his jurifdiftion.

A Form of Prayer ufed by many of the JJJandcrs at Sea after the Sails are bcifted.

[This Form is contained in the Ii i(h Liturgy compofcd by Mr. John Kerfweil, afterwards Bifhop of Ar-
gyll, printed in the year 1566, and dedicated to the Esrl of Argyle. I hare fet down the original, for
the fatisfadioii of fuch readers as underiland it. J

MODIi bendaighto luingo ag dul dionfa idhe na fairrge*
Abrah aon da chaeh marfo.
Da.

An Stioradeir. Beanighidh ar long.

Fregra Chakh. Go mbeandaighe dia athair i.

An Stioradoir. Beanoaidhidh ar long.

Fregra. Go mbeandaighe Jofa Criofd i.

An Stioradoir. Beanoaidhidh ar long.

Fregra. Go mbeandaighe an (hiorad naomh i.

An Stioradoir. Crcd is egail libh is dhia athair libh.

Fregra. Ni heagal en ni.

An Stioradoir. Crcd is egil libh is dia an mac libh.

Fregra. Ni heagal en ni.

An Stioradoir. Cred is eagail libh is dia an fbiorod naomh libh.

Fregra. Ni heagal en ni.

An Stioradoir. Dia athair vile chumhachtach ar gradh a mhic Jofa Criofd, le comh
fliurtach an fpioraid naorah, an taon dhia tug eland Ifrael trid an muir ruaigh go mirb-
huiieach, agas tug Jonas ad tir ainbroind an mhil mhoie, & tug Pol Eafpol, agas a long
gon, toirind o an fadh iomarcacii, agas o dheartan dominde dar fa oradhne, agas dar
Itnadh, agas dar mbeandrghhadh, agas dar mbreith le fen, agas le foinind, agas le fola»
do chum chnain, agas chalaidh do reir a theile diadha fein.
Ar ni iarrmoia air ag radha.
Ar nathuirne ata ar neamh, &c«
Abradh each vile.
Bionh amhlvidh.

The

'''

'Ml

•I 111

I M

6i6

MARTm's DESCRIPTION OP THE

The Manner of bUJfmg the Ship when they put to Sea, '

The Steer/man fays. Let us blefs our (hip.

The A)fiver by all the Crew. Gc J .he father blcfs her.

Stecrfman. Let us blefs our (liip.

.hifxivr. Jcfus Chrifl- blefs her.

Stecrfman. Let us blcfs our fliip. ,

Anfixer. The Holy Gholl blefs her.

Stecrfman. What do you fear, fince God the Father is with you ?

AnfMr, We do not fear any thing.

Stecrfman. What do you fear, lince God the Son is with you ?

Anfiver. We do not ioar any thing.

Stecrfman, What are you afraid of, fince God the Holy Ghoft is with you ?

Anficcr, We do not fear any thing.

Steofman. God the Father Almighty, for the love of Jefus Chrift his Son, by the
comfort of the Holy Ghoft, the one God, who niiraculouOy brought the children of
Ifracl through the Red Sea, and brought Jonas tti land out of the belly of the whale,
and the ApoHle St. Paul ind his fliip to fafety from the troubled raging fea, and from
the violence of a tempeftuous ftorm ; deliver, fandify, blefs and condud us peaceably,
calmly, and comfortably through the fea to our harbour, according to his Divine will:
which we beg, faying. Our Father, &c.

A Defcriptkn ' ^ jle ofSkie.

SKIE (in the ancient language Skianach, i. e. winged) is fo called becaufe the two
oppofite northern promontories (Vaternds lying north-weft, and Trotternefs north-eaft)
refenible two wings. This ille lies for the ni.-)ft part half-way in the weftern fea, be-
tween the main land on the eaft, the fliire of Rofs, aad the wellern ifle of Lewis, &c.

The ifle is very high land, as well on the coaii, «;; higher up in the country ; and
there are feven high mountains near one another, almoft in the centre of the ifle.

This ifland is forty miles in length from fouth to north, and in fome places twenty,
and in others thirty in breadth ; the whole may amount to a hundred miles in circum-
ference.

The channel between the fouth of Skie and oppofite main land (which is part of the
fhire of Inncrnefs) is not above three leagues in breadth ; and where the ferry boat
crolfeth to Glenelg it is fo narrow, that one may call for the ferry- boat, and be eafily
heard on the other fide. This ifle is a part of the flieriffdom of Innernefs, and formerly
of the diocefs of the ifles, which was united to that of Argyle : a fouth-caft moon
caufeth a fpring-tide here.

The mold is generally black, efpecially in the mountains ; but there is fome of a red
colour, in whicb iron is found.

The arable land is for the moft part black, and yet affords clay of different colours ;
as white, red, and blue : the rivulet at Dunvegan church, and that of Nifboft, have
fullers-earl h.

The villages Borve and Glenmore afford two very fine forts of earth, the one red,
the other while; and they both feel "nd cut like melted tallow. There are other
places that itffnrd p'enty of very fine white maric, which cu»s like butter; it abounds
molt in Corchattachan, where an experiment has been made of its virtue; a quantity of
it being l^)i cad on a Hoping hill covered with heath, foon after all the heatk .' •' to the

2 ground.

WESTERN ISLANCS OF SCOTLAND. 6iy

pound, as if it had been cut with a kiiifo. They afterwards fowcd barley on the
ground, which though it grew but unequally, foine places proLlucimi; no irrain, becauftJ
perhaps it was unequally laid on ; yet tiic produce was thirty-five fold, and many (lalks
carried five ears of barley, l his account was given me by the prefent poffeflbr of the
ground, Lachlin iV'Jac-kinon.

There r.re Marcafitcs black and white, refembling filver ore, near the villap;e Sart'e :
there are likcwife in the fame place fcver-al (tones, wliich in bignefs, fliape, &c. rofemblii
nutmeg, "and many rivulets hero aflord variegated Rones of all colours. The Apples-
pkn near Loch-fallart has aggat growing in it of different li7.cs and colours ; fomt; are
green on the out fide, n)me are of a pale Iky-culour, and they i.11 ftrike fire as well as
Hint : I have one of them by mc, which in Ihapeand bignefs is proper for a fword-han-
dle. Stones of a purple colour flow down the rivulets here after great rains.

There is chrydal in feveral places of this ifland,as at Pottery, Quillin,-and Mingnis ;
it is of dillerent fizcs and colours, fome is fex-angular, as that of Quillin, and Mingnis ;
and there is fome in Minrinefs of a purple colour. The village Torrin in Strath alTord*
a great deal of good white and black marble ; I have feen cups made of the white,
which is very fine. There are large quarries of free-ftone in feveral purts of this ifle,
as at Snil'ners in Strath, in the fouth of Borrie, and ifle of Rafay. There is abundance
of lime-ftone in Strath and Trottcrnefs : fome banks of clay on the eaft coafl are over-
flowed by the tide, and in thefe grow the Lapis Cerunius^ or Ccrna Aniomis, of different
Ihapes ; fome of the breadth of a crown-piece, bearing an impreffion refembling the
fun ; fbmc are as big as a man's finger, in form of a femi-circle, and furrowed on the
inner fide ; others are lei's, and have furrows of a yellow colour on both fides. Thefe
ftones are by the natives called cramp-floncs, becaufe (as they fay) they cure the cramp
in cows, by wafliing the part affected with water in which this ftonehas been fteeped for
fome hours. The Veluminles grow likewife in thefe banks of clay ; fome of ihem are
twelve inches long and tapering towards one end : the natives call them Bot Stones,
becaufe they believe them to cure the horfes of worms which occafion that diflemper,
by giving them water to drink, in which this ftone has been fleeped for fome hours,

'I'his itone grows likewife in the middle of a very hard grey ftone on the (hore.
There is a black ftone in the furface of the rock on Rig-lhore, which refembles goats
horns.

The laph hcSlkus, or white He^tick ftone, abounds here both in the land and water;
the natives ufe thisHone as a remedy ats;ainft the dyfaiteria and diarrhea ; they make
them red-hot in the fire, and then quench them in milk, and fome in water, which they
drink with good fuccefs. They ufe this ftone after the fame manner for confumptions,
and they likewife quench thefe iloncs in water, with whijh they bathe their feet and
hands.

'I'he ftones on which the fcurf called Corkir grows, are to be had in many places on
the coaft, and in the hills. T'his fcui-f dyes a pretty crimfon colour; firft well dried,
and then ground to powder, after which it is llecped in urine, the veflel being well fe-
cured from air ; and in three weeks it is ready to boil with the yarn that is to be dyed.
The natives obferve the decreafe of the moon for fcraping this fcurf from the ftone, and
fay it is ripeft in Auguft.

T here are many white fcurfs on ftone, fomewhat like thefe on which the Corkir grows,
but the Corkir is white, and thinner than any other that refembles it.

'I heio is another coarler fcurf called Crodil ; it is of a dark colour, and only dyes a
philaniot.

The rocks in the village Ord, have much talk growing on them like the Venice-talk.
VOL. ui. 4 K This

I 'I
1 1

i
'A

' • 'I

-:ll

,i.t'fc

€t$

MARTIN 3 DESCRIPTION OF THE

This iffe 5s naturally well provided with variety of excellent bays and harbours. In
the fouth of it lies the peninfula called (v ronfo, a/ias Ifland Dierman ; it has an exceU
lent place for anchorage on the eaft-fide, and is generally known by moft Scots feamen.
About a league more eafterly on the fame coaft there is a finall rock, vifibleonly at half
low-water, but may be avoiiled by ileering through the middle of the channel. About
aleague more eafterly on the fame coaft, thcieisan anchorage pretty near the ftiore :
within lefs than a inilc further is the narrow found called the Kyle, in order to pafs whicrt
it is abfolutely neceftiuy to have the tide of flood for fuch as are northward bound, elfe
they will bo obliged to retire in order, bccaufc of the violence of the current ; for no
wind is able to carry a veflcl againft it. 'I'he quite contrary courfe is to be obferved by
veflels coming from the north. A mile due eaft from the Kyle, there is a big rock,
on the foorh fide the point of land on Skie fide, called Kaitlach, which is overflowed
by the tide of flood j a veflel may go near its out fide. Above a mile further due
north, there are two rocks in the paflage through the Kyle ; they are on the caftle fide,
«nd may be avoided by keeping the middle of the channel. About eight miles more to
the northward, or the eaft of Skie, there is fecure. anchorage between the ifle Scalpa
and Skie in the middle of the channel ; but one muft not come to it by the fouth entry
of Scalpa : and in coming between Rafay and this ifle, there arc rocks without the en.
try, which may be avoided beft, by having a pilot of the country. IVIore to the north is
Lockfligichan, on the coaft of Skie, where is good anchorage ; the entry is not deep
enough for vefllls of any burden, except at higli water : but three miles further north
lies Loch-Portry, a capacious and convenient harbour of above a mile in length.

Th«? sfland Tulm, which is within half a mile of the northermoft point of Skie, has
an harbour on the infide. The entrance between the ifle and Duntulm caftle is the
beft.

On the weft of the fame wing of Skie^ and about five miles more foutheriy, lies Loch-
Uge, about a mile in length, and a very good harbour for veflels of the greateft burden.
About two miles on the coaft further fouth is Loch-fnifort ; it is three miles iu length,
and half a mile in breadth ; it is free from rocks, and has convenient anchorage.

On the weft fide of the promontory, at the mouth of Locri-fnifort, lies Loch-arnifort,
being about two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth : there are two finall ifles
in the mcuth of the entry, and a rock near the well fide, a little within the entry.

Some five miles to the wed: of Arnifort lies Lrcli-fallart ; the entry is between Vater-
niflu'ad on the caft fide, and Dunvegan-head on the weft fide. Th;.' loch is fix miles in
length, and about a league in breadth for fome miles : it hath the iihiiid lia about the
middle, on the eaft fide. There is z rock between the north end and t'le land, atid
there veflels may anchor between the N. E. fide of th.- ille and the land; there is alfo
good anchorage near Dunvegan-caftle, two niif s further to the fouthward.

Loch-BrJtt.adil lies two miles fouth of Loch-fallart ; it is feven miles in length, and
has feveral good anchoring-places : on the north fide the entry lie two rocks, called
Macleod'^ Maidens. About three miles fduthwcft is Locheiiiard, a mile in length ; it
has a rock in the entry, and is not vifible but at an ebb.

About two miles to the eaftward, there is an ai jhoring-place for barks, between Skie
and the ifle of Soa.

About a league further eaft lie Loch-flapan and Loch-eflbrt ; the firft reaches about
four miles to the north, and the fecond about fix miles to the eaft

There are feveral mountains in the ifle of a confiderable height and extent ; as
Quillin, Scornificy, Ucin-ftore, Uein-vore-fcowe, Bein-chro, Bein niii, Kaillach : fome
of them are covered with fp'nw on the top in fummer, others arc almoft quite covered

5 with

WESTERN ISLANDS Or SCOTLAND.

619

with fand in the top, which is much waflied down with the great rains. All thefe
mountains abound with heath and grafs, which ferve as good paiturage for black cattle
and (hcep.

The Oiiillin, which exceeds any of thofe hills in height, is faiil to be the caufe of
much rain, by breakir/^ the clouu's that hover about it ; which quickly after pour down
in lain upon that quarter on which the wind then blows. There is a high ridge of one
continued mountain of confiderable height, and fifteen miles i'l length, running along
the middle of the eafl wing of Side, called Troterntfs; and that part above thefeais
fiiccd with a ftcop rock.

The arable ground is generally along the coaft, and in the valleys between the moun-
tains, having always a river running in the middle ; the foil is very grateful to the huf-
bandman. I have been flicwed feveral places that had not been tilled for feven years
before, which yi-jldod a good produft of oats by digging, though the ground was not
dunged ; particularly near the village Kilmartin, which the natives told me had not
been dunged thefe forty years lad. Several pieces of ground yield twenty, and fome
thirty fold, when dunged with fea-ware. I had an account, that a fmall trad of ground
in ihe village of Skerybreck, yielded an hurdred fold of barley.

The ifle of Altig, which is generally covered with heath, being manured with fea-
ware, the owner lowed barley in the ground, and it yielded a very good produft ; many
ftalks had five ears growing upon them. In plcniiful years, Skie furnifhes the oppo-
file continent with oats and barley. The way of tillage here is after the fame man-
ner that is already defcribed in the ifles of Lewis, Sec. and digging doth always produce
a better inarafe here than ploughing.

All the mountains in this ifle are plentifully furnifhed with variety of excellent
fprings and fountains ; fome of them have rivulets, with water-mills upon them. The
mod celebrated well in Skie, is Loch-fiant well ; it is much frequented by ftrangers, as
well as by the inhabitants of the ifle, who generally believe it to be a fpecific for feveral
difeafes ; fuch as Hitches, head-aches, ftone, confumplion, megrim. Several of the
common people oblige ihemfelves by a vow to come to this well, and make the ordinary
tour about it, called DefliI, which is performed thus : they move thrice round the well,
proceeding lim-vvays from call to weft, and lb on. This is done after drinking of the
water ; and when one goes away from the well, it is a never-lailing cuftom, to leave
fome fmall oifering ou the fl;one which covers the well. There are nine fpriigs
iffuing out of the hill above the well, and all of them pay the tribute of their water to a
rivulet that falls from the well. There is a little frelh-water lake within ten yards of
the faid well ; it abounds with trouts, but neither the natives nor ftrangers will ever
prefume to deftroy any of them, fuch is the elteem they have for the water.

There is a fmall coppice near to the well, and there is none of the natives dare ven-
ture to cut the leaft branch of it, for fear of fignal judgment to fellow upon it.

There are many wells here ellcemed elfectuitl to remove feveral d'flempers. The
lighted and wholefomell water in all the ifle is that of TombirTellibr 'k in Uge : the
natives fay that the water of this well, and the fea-plant called Dulfe, would ferve in-
ftcad of food for a confiderable time, and own that they have experienced St in time of
war. I faw a little well in Kilbride in the fouth of Skie, with one trout only in it ; the
natives are very tender of it, and though they often chance to catch it in their wooden
p ales, they are very careful to prci'erve it from being dcflroyed ; it has been feen there
for many years : tlierc is a rivulet not far difl;ant from the well, to which it hath proba-
bly had accels through fome narrow pafl'age.

4 K 2 There

il^

■Ji!

m
■441

, f

, iH

620

MARTIN 3 DESCRIPTION OJ? TUB

There arc many rivers on all quarters of the ifle. about tMrly of tliem afford fitlmon,
and I'ome of thom black mufclcs, in whicii p-r'iul do In-eed •, particul.iriy the rivtT of
Kilmartin, -ind the river OrJ. The proprietor lold mo, tlv.it fonic yt^'iws ago a pi?arl
hsd been tai^on out of the ibriner, valued at twenty pounds llerlini:;. '1 here are feveral
catarads, as that in Sker-lioren, Holm, Rig and 'J'Diit. \Vhi.ii tlie river makes a great
noife in time of fair weather, it is a fure pro^noilitk iicre of r.iin to enfue.

There are inanv frefh-water lakes in Skie, and generally, well Itocked with trout and
eels. Tjie coiiitnon lly and the earth-worms are ordinarily ufed fur angling trout ; the
beft feafon for it is a c.ilm, or a foiith-vvell wind.

'ihc larged of the f •i-lh- water likes is that named after St. Columbus, on the account
of the chapel dedicatei.1 to that Saint ; it ftamis in the ifle about the middle of t!ie lake.
There is a little irelh- water lake near the louth fide of Lochtiiiordlla'-d, in which
iniilcles grow that breed pearl.

Tills ifle hath anciently been covered all over with woods, as appears fi(^m the great
trunks of Fir-trees, &:c. dug out of the boj.'.s frecpieutly, Sec. Tliere an* feveral cop-
pices of wood, 'capered up and dowu the ille j thj largelt called Lettirhurr, exceeds
not thjec miles in 1 -ngth.

Herrings are ofi^.n taken in mofl: or all tlie bays mentioned above : Loch-effort, Sla-^
pan, Loch-fallart, Loch-fcowfar, and the Kyle of Scalpa, are.{;eneral!y known to llran-
gers, for the great quantities of herring taken in them. This fort of fifh is commonly
feen without the bay, and on thecoall all the fummer. All other fi(h follow th^? her-
ring and their fry, from the whale to the le 'I fi(h that fwims j the biggelt Will dcllro) ing
the leffcr.

The fifhers and others told me, that there is a big herring almofl double the fize of
any of its kind, which leads all thai are in a bay, and the fhoal follows it wh(.rever 't goes.
This leadiris by the fifhers called the king of herring, and when they cfiance to catch
it a'ivc, they drop it carefully into the lea j for they judge it petty treafon to dcftroy a
fifli of that name.

The fifliers fay, that all forts of fifli, from the greated to the leafl, have a leader, who
is followed by all of its kind.

It is a general obfervation all Scotland over, thai if a quarrel happen on th • cnafl
vhere herring is caught, and that blood be drawn violently, tlien tlie herring ^vay

from the coafl, without returning during that (eaCon Thi^, they fay, has bc.a ob-
ferved in all pafi ages, as well as at prelent , ^iit this 1 rela'e only as u common tradi-
tion, and fubmii it to the judgment of the learned.

The natives preserve and dry their herring without lalt, for the fpnce of eight months,
provided they be takon after the tenth of Stptiniber ; they ule jo other art in it, but
take out their guts, and then tying a p. fli about tli.ii nteks, hang them !iy pairs upon a
.ope made of heath crofs a houle ; and they cat we!!, and free from putrefaction, after
cig'it months keeping in this manner. C(>d, ling, herring, n.atkrcl, luuidocls, wniting,
turbot, together with all other fifh that are in the Scots lea.-, abound on the coalls of
this ifland.

The befl ;i.nc of taking fifh with an angl>' is in wami weather, which difpofes tl)em
to come near the fuiface of the water ; whereas in cold we.ithcr, or i .lin, thi y go to the
bottom. The befl bait forced and Img is a jiiece of Inning, whiting, thond^iek,
haddock, or eel. The grey lord, f/i/s black-uioutli, a lilh of the ll/.e and lliapc of a
fahnon, takes the limpet for bait. Th'-re is aiiothi r way of angling for this hlh, by falt-
ering a fliort white down of a goofe Li.hind the ht^ok ; uiiJ the boat bchig continually

roAed,

Wf STERN JSLANUa Of SCOTLAND.

621

rowcil, the fifli run prcotlily after tlio down, and are cafily cauglit. TIi? grey.lorJ
fu'iins ill the iurfacc oi the water, and then is caught with a I'pear ; a rope being tiod to
the I'urihcT end of it, and Iccurcd in the filliernian's hand.

All tlie bays and phices of antliorago here abound with moll kinds of flit'U-filh. The
Kyle of .Scalpa allords oyllers in fiich plenty, that commonly a fpring-tide of c'ob leaves
fifteen, fometimes twenty horfe-load of them on the fancis.

I'hc fands on the coalt of UernUill village at the fpring-tides allbrd daily fuch plenty
of niul'cles, as is fuffieient to maiiuaiu fixty p.>rlbns per day : and this was a great fup-
port to many poor families in the neighbourhood, in the late years of fcareity. The
natives obferve that all flicll-rifli are plumper at the incrcafe lliP-ii decreafeof the moon;
they obferve likewife, that all fliell-filh are plumper during a fouth-wed waid, thai\ when
it blows from the north or north-cafl quarters.

The limpet being parboiled with a very little quantity of water, the broth is drank
to increafe milk in nurfes, and likewife when the milk proves altringent to the infants.
The broth of the black perivinkle is ufed in the fame cafes. It is obfervcd, that lim-
pets being frequently eat in June, are apt to occafion the jaundice ; the outl'ide of the
fifh is coloured like the (kin of a perfon that has the jaundice: the tender yellow part
of the limpet, which is next to the ilull, is reckoned good nourifliment, and very ealy
of di^^edion.

I had an account of a poor woman, who was a native of the ifle of Jura, and by the
troubles in Kin;^ Charles the Fird's reign was almoft reduced to a darving condition;
fo that fhe lod her milk quite, by which her infant had nothing proper for its fude-
nance ; upon tliit- fhe boiled fome of the tender fat of the limpets, and gave it to her
infant, to whom it became fo agreeable, that it had no other food for feveral months
together; and yet there was not a child in Jura, or any of the adjacent illes, whole-
fomer than this poor infant, which was expoled to fo great a flrait.

The limpet creeps on the done and rock in the night-time, and in a warm day ; but
if any ilijiig touch the fhell, it indanlly clings to the flone, and then no hand is able
to pluck it off without fome inflrument ; ami, therefore, fuch as take them have little
hammere, called limpet-hammers, with which they beat it from the rock; but if they
vvatth its motions, and furprizeit, the lead touch of the hand pulls it away : and this
that is taken creeping, they fay, is larger and better than that which is pulled off by force.
The motion, fixation, talle, and feeding, &c. of this little animal being very curious, I
have here exhibited its figure, for the fatisfattion of the inquifitive reader.

I have likewil'c here exhibited the figure of the balanos, growing on Hone and fhells ;
in which very fmall wi ks are found to lodge and grow.

The pale vvilk, which in length and finalliafs exceeds the black periwinkle, and by
the naiivet ealled gil-fiunt, is by them beat in pieces, and both fhell and filh boiled ; the
broth l)eing drained, and drank lnr fome days together, is accounted a good remedy
ag.iind the don- ; it is called adead-man's-eye at Dover. It is ribferved of cockles and
fpout-lifli, that tliey ^;o deepi r in the fands with north winds than any other ; and on the
contrary, ihcy are eafier reacted with foutti winds, which are dill warpied.

h is a general oblervation of all inch as hve on the fea-coad, that they are more
prolific than any other peop e whatfocver.

The Sea Plants here, are as foUoxvs :

L'NARICIT, a very thin fmall green pi nt, about eight, ten, or twelve inches in

length ; it grows on Hone, on IhcUs, and oti the bare land. This plant is .ipplied

^ planUr-

rill

622

martin's DKSCRIPTION OP TIT8

plainer- wife to the forehead and temples, to procure fleep for fuch as have a fever, and
they fay it is effcdual for this purpolc.

The Ihwrich is likewil'e applied to the crown of the head and temples, for removing
the megrim, and alio to heal the (kin alter a blifler-plaifler oi Jianunula Jovis.

Slake, a very thin plant, almoil round, about ton or twelve inches in cinuinftience,
prows on the rocks and fands ; the natives cat it boiled, and it dilVolves into oil ; they
fay that if a little butter be added to it, one might live many years on thin alone,
without bread, or any other food, and at the fame time vinJcij^o any laborious exer-
cile. This plant, boiled with fonie butter, id given to cows in the fpring, to remove
coftiveiiefs.

Dulfe is of a reddifli brown colour, about ten or twelve inches long, and above half
an inch in breadth; it is eat raw, and thtn reckoip.-d to be looloniiig, and very good
for the fight ; but if boiled, it proves more looR'ning, if the juice be drank with it.
This plant applied plaillcr-v\ife to the tcmp.les, is reckoned ell'cdual againll the megrim:
the plant boiled, and eat with its infufion, isufed againll the cholic and Itom- ; and
dried without wafliing it in water, pulverized ami given in any convenient vehicle fall-
ing, it kilis worms; the natives eat it boileii wi^ih butter, and reckon it very whole-
fome. The dulie recommended lure is that which grows on (lone, and not that wliich
grows on the a/gti marina., or fca tangle; for though that may be likewife eateri, it will
not ferve in any of the cafes above mentiotied.

The alga nuiriiia^ or lea-tangle, or, as fome cdl it, fea-ware, is a rod about lour, fix,
eight, or ten feet long ; having at the end a blade commonly Hit into feven or eight
pieces, and about a foot and a half in length ; it grows on Hone, the blade is eat by
the vulgar natives. I had an account of a young man who h.id loil his appetite, and
taken pills to no purpofe ; and being advifed to boil the blade of the alga, and drink
the infufnm boiled witli a little butter, was rellored to his former (late of health.

There is abundance of whi'e and reil coral growing on the fouth and welt coaft of
this ifle ; it grows on the rocks, and is frequently interwoven with the roots of the
al^a ; the red feems to be a good fre/h colour when firll taken out of the fe.i, but in
a few hours after it becomes pale. Some of the natives take a quantity of the red co-
ral, adding the yolk of an egg roafled to it, for the diarrliea. Both the red and white
coral here is not al>ove live inches long, and about the bignels of a goole ouijl.

There are many caves to be feen on each qu;<rter of this ifle, fome of them are be-
lieved to be feveral miles in length : there is a big cave in the village Bornfkittag, which
is fuppofed to exceed a mile in leiifth. The natives told me that a piper, who was
over-curious, went into tlie cave uiih a defign to find out the length of it ; and after
he entered, began to play on his pipe, but ne^er returned to give an account of his
progrefs.

There is a cave in the village Kig;^, wheriin drops of water that iffue frcm the roof
petrify into a white hmy fubltance, and hang down from the roof and fides of the
cave.

There is a cave in the village Holm, having m;iny petrified twi^s hanging from the
top; they are hollow from one end to the other, and from five to ten inches in
length.

There is a big cave in the rock on the call fide of Portry, large enough for eighty
perfons ; there is a will within it, which, together with its lituation and narrow entry,
renders it an inacceflible fort; one man oidy can enter it at a time, hy the fide of a
rock, fo that vith a itjlf in his hand he is able by the ieall touch to caft over the rock
as many as (hall attempt to come into the cave.

WESTERN TSLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 623

On the fouth fide Loch-Porfry, there is a large cave, in which many fea cormorants
do build ; the natives carry a bundle of draw to the door of the cave in the night-
time, and there fctting it on fire, the fowls fly with all fpeed to the liglit, and fo are
caught in balkets laid for that purpofc The golden cave in Sleat is laid to be fcven
miles in length, from the we!t to eaft.

There are many cairns, or heaps of floncs in this illand. Some of the natives fay
they were crcfled in the times of Heatheniftn, aiiJ that the ancient inhabitants wor-
fliipped aUout them. In Popifli countries, the people flill re'Jn the ancient cuflom
of making a tour round thcni.

Others fay, thefe cairns were erefted whore perrons of diftindtion, killed in battle,
had been buried, and that their urns were laid in the ground under thi> c:;irns. I had
an account of a cairn in Kmipdale in the (hire of Argyle, underneath which an urn
was found. 'J here are little cairns to be feen in fome places on the conmion road,
which were nv.xle only where corpfes happened to refl for fome- minutes ; but they
have laid afide the making fuch cairns now.

There is an ereftcd Hone in Kilbride in Strsth, which is ten feet high, and one and
a half broad.

'1 here is another of five feet high placed in the middle of the Cairn, on the fouth
fule Lc\'h-!Jge, and is called the high (tone of Uge.

There are three fuch (tones on the fea-coafl oppofite to Skcrinefs, each of tliem
three feet high ; the natives have a tradition, that upon thefe Hones a big cauldron
was let, for boiling Fin-Mac-Coul's meat, 'liii-s gigantic man is reported to have been
general of a militia that came from Spain to Ireland, and from tlu-nce to thofe ifles :
all his ioldiirs .ir^ called Fienty from Fiun. He is believed to have arrived in the ifles,
in the nii;n of King Evan : the natives have many (lories of this general and his army,
with which I will not trouble the reader. He is mentioned in Bifliop Lefly's Ila'tory.

There are tnany forts eroded on the coaft of this ifle, and fup;)ori;.d to have Le.'n
built by the Danes ; they are called by the name of Dun, from Dain, which in the an-
cient language fignified a fort ; they are round in lorm, and they have a palfage all
round v>ahin the wall ; the door of them is low, and many o( the (iones are of fuch
liilk, that no number of the prclVnt inh;ibitants could raii'e them without an engine.

AU tluie forts Hand upon rmincnces, and are fo difpolVd, that thore is not one of
them, which i.s not in view of Ibme other ; and by this means, when a lire is niatle upon
a beacon in any one fort, it is in a few moments after comnuuiicared to i>.ll the reli :
and this hath been ;>lways obllrved upon fight of any number of foreii.',n veil'els, or boats
approaching the coalK

The forts are commonly named after the place where thev are, or t!ie perfon that
built them ; as Dun Skudborg, Dun Derig, Dun Skerinefs, Dim-David, &c.

There are feveral little (tone houfes, bjilt under ground, called carth-houfes, which
ferved to hide a few people and their goods in time of war ; the entry to them was on
the lea or river-fide : there is one of them in the village Lachfay, and another in Cam-
ftinvag.

There are feveral little ftone houfes built above ground, capable only of one perfon,
and round in form ; one of them is to be feen in I'ortry, another at Lincro, and at
Culuknock : they are called Try fii/i dniinich, i. e. Druid's-houfe. Druinich li-nilies a
a retired perfon, much devoted to conteinplatiiin.

The fewel ufed here is peats dug out of the heaths ; there are cakes of iron fou:ui in
the alhes of fome of them, and at Flodgery village there are peats from which fait petre
Iparklcs. There is a coal lately difcovercd at ilohii in Poitry, iouie of which 1 have

feen :

'lis
m

■i I iiL

lif;

624

martin's DERCaiTTION OF TIIR

focn ; tliorc arc pii^cos of coal ilu; (Hit liktnvilo ol" tlic fca-fanJ in HoUorilaofVatornis,
and lome fminil ir\ thi* villaqo IMo^llat.

'I'hv' cattle proJucc'il Ikti- aiv lioilcs, cows, flipc|), gov'ts, aivl Ijogs, Tlio comnum
work-horli-s are expoHil to the ji;^(Hir of tlu- I'taloij during the wiiu.'.raiid fpriup; and
tliouc,!! tlu7 have luithcr corn, hay, or hut leLlom (IruA-, yet tliey under).n) all tlie
labour that ott cr lioHl's hcner treated ar.' liahK' to.

'I'hc cows ,irc Hkivvile oxpofcd to the rij^onr of tlie coldell foafons, ftiul become i.v -re
flvtletons ill the lj)nng, many of tiioin not being able to rife (roni tiie prouiul vviili'Ut
help; but ihiy recover asthefcaldi bteomcs nior..- f ivour.i!)!:, and the gr.ifs gidws
up: then they acquire new beef, which is both Ivveot and tender; tiie f.ii an>i lean is
not fo inurh liparated in them as in oilier rows, but as it were l.tr.led, vvlncli renders it
very apreeablo to the talle. A covi- in this ilL- may bo twelve y-ars old, wh'. n at the fame
time iis beef is not above four, Hve, or (ix nionths old. Whei: a calf is I! lin, ii is an
\iliiai ciillom to cover another calf with its fkin, to (nek the cow whole caif liJith b -en
fl lin, or el'o llie nives no milk, nor fuflers herfelf to be approached by any body;
and if (lie difcovcr the cheat, tinn (he grows cqiaged f>>r fome days, and th.? lad re.
mcdy uf 'd 0 pacify her, is to nfe the fweetell voice, an 1 ling all the time of niHking
her. WheK any man is troubled with liis neighbour's cows, by breaking into In.-, in-
clorurep, lie brings all to the utinofl boundary of his ground, and there dra-ving a
quantity of blood from each cow, he leaves them upon the fpot, from whence they
jTo awav, without ever returning again to trouble him, during all tli^U leafon. The
cows o< ten *V(d upon the <7/jf(/ rnarina, or fea-ware; and tluy can cxacUy dillmguilh
the tide of ebb from the tide of Hood, though at the lame time they are not witb.ia
view of the fea ; and if one meet them running to the fhore at the tide of ebb, and
ofler to turn them again to the hills to graze, tiiey will not return. When the tide
has cbbfd about two hours, fo as to uncover the fea-ware, then they fleer their courfe
•diredly to the nearefl coad, in their ufual order, one after another whatever their
numb.r be : there are as many inltanccs ot this, as there are tidts of ebb on the fliore.
I had occalion to make this oblervation thirteen times in one week ; for, though the
natives gave me repeated ailurancos of the truth of it, 1 did not fully believe it, till
I faw many inllances of it in my travels along the coad. The natives have a re-
mark, that when the cows b;. longing to one perfon do of a fudden become very irrc-
ji;iildr, and run up and down the fields, and make a loud noilV, without any vifd^Ie
caufe, it is a preia^^e of tlie mailer's or niillrels's death ; ol which ih re were feveral
Iwte inllances given me. James Macdonaldof Capltil having b.en kiileil at the battle
of Kelicranky, it was obferved that night, that his cows gave blvjod indead of milk ;
his family and other neighbours concluded this a bad omen. The ininifler f* tlic
place, and the millrefs of the cows, together with fcvei al neighbours, afl'ured me ui the
truth of this.

There was a calf brought forth in Vatcrnis without legs ; it 1 aped very far, bel-
lowed louder than at.y other calf, and drank much more milk : at lait the owner killed
it. Keini' th tlie carpenter, who lives there, told me that he had feen the calf. I was alio
ii;{ rmed, that a cow in Vaiernis brought forth five calves at a time, of which iliret died.
There was a calf at Skerinefs, havng all its legs double, but the bones had but one
fkin to cover both ; the owner fancying it to be oininou;^ killeu it, after having lived
nine montl'.s. Several of the natives thereabouts told nic tli;it they hail leeii it.

There are ftveral calves th.it have a ilit in the top of lluir ear>-, and tliefe the lutives
fancy to be the iilue of a wiul bull, that tomes from theiea or Irdli iakci-j and this
calf is by them call.d arkj fyre.

1 2 There

WESTFRN 1RLAKD3 OP SCOTLAND. €2$

Thore is plenty of InnJ ami water-fowl in this idc ; ns hawk«, eagles of two kinds,
the one gfcy :\nJ of a Iarp;cr fize, the other much Icfs and black, but more dellrud\ive
to young cattle ; black-cock, hcatii hen, plovers, pifreons, wlld-geefe, tarmagan, and
cranes : of this latter f^rt, I have fecn fixty on the (hove in a flock together. The fca-
fowls are malls of all kinds, coulterneb, guillamot, lea-cormorant, &c. The natives
obfcrvc that the latter, if perfedly black, maKcs no good broth, nor is its flelh worth
eating ; but that a cormorant, which has any white feathers or down, makes good
broth, and the llcfli of it is good food, and the broth is ulually drunk by nurfes to in-
creafe their milk.

The natives obfcrve, that this fowl flutters with its wings towards the quarter from
which the wind is ioon after to blow.

The fea-fowl bunivochil, or, as fomc fcamen call it, carara, and others bifhop, is as
big as a goofe, of a brown colour, and the infido of the wings white ; the bill is long
and broad, and it is footed like a goofe; it dives quicker than any other fowl what-
ever; it is very fat. The cafe of this fowl being flayed off with the fat, and a little fait
laid on to prcferve it, and then appliL'd to the tJiigh-bone, where it niufb lie for feveral
weeks together, is an efledual remedy againfl the fciatica, of which I faw two inftanccs.
It is obferved of fire-arms that are rubbed over (as the cuflom is here) with the oil or
fat of fea-fowls, that they contraft ruft much looner, than when done with the fat of
land-fowl ; the Fulmar oil from St. Kilda only excepted, which preferves iron from
contrading ruft much longer than any other oil or greafe whatfoever. The natives
obferve, that, when the fea-pye warbles its notes incefl'antly, it is a furc prefage of fair
weather to follow in a few hours after.

The amphibia to be feen in this ifle, are feals, otters, vipers, frogs, toads, and afps.
The otter Ihuts its eyes when it eats ; and this is a confidcrable difadvantage to it, for
then feveral ravenous fowls lay hold on this opportunity, and rob it of its fi(h.

The hunters fay, there is a big otter above the ordinary fize, with a white fpot on
its breaft, and this they call the king of otters ; it is rarely feen, and very hard to be
killed ; feamen afcribe great virtues to the fliin, for they fay that it is fortunate in
battle, and that victoi y is always on its fide. Serpents abound in feveral parts of this
itle i there are three kinds of them, the firft black and white fpotted, which is the moft
poilbnous, and if a fpeedy remedy be not made ufe of after the wound given, the party
is in danger. I had an account that a man at Glenmore, a boy at Portry, and a woman
at Loch-lcah-vag, did al' die of wounds given by this fort of ferpents. Some believe
that the ferpents woiinu with the fling only, and net with their teeth ; but this opinion
h founded upon a bare conjedlure, bccaufe the iting is expofed to view, but the teeth
very rarely feen : they are lecured within a hofe of flefl>, which prevents their being
broke ; the end of them being linoki\l and exceeding fmall, would foon be deftroyed,
it it ha I not b.xn lir this fenct- that nature has given them. The longeft of the black
lerpcnts mentioned above, is from twt) to three, or at moll four feet long.

Til ■ yellow ferpent with brown 'pots is not fo poilbnous, nor fo long as the black
and white one.

The brown ferpent is of all three the Icafl: poifonous, and fmallefl and fliortefl in
fizo.

The remedies ufed here to extract the poifon of ferpents are various. Tho rump
of a ho\i!e-cnck flript of its feathrr, and applied to the wound, doth powerfully extract
the poifon, if tim-jly applied. The cock is obferved after this to fwell to a great bulk,
tar above its fornicr fize, and bcinj thrown out into the fields, no ravenous bird or
brafl will ever offer to taftc oi it.

VOL. Ill, 4 L The

!;i

"l 'A

I'V

636

martin's description of thf

The foiVoi! Qlnp taken out of an a;Ult'r\s tongue is by the natives ftecpcd in water,
with which they \va(h and core the woinul.

TIio ferpcnt's liead that j-ivi-s thi- vvi,iiiul bt iiifr apiilied, is found to be a good remedy.

New che: fe apphal tinjely exIraCb the poifon wMi.

There are two loi ts of wraflts in tlic iflo, mu' of wliith exceeds that of the common
fizc in bi^'ncls ; the natives (ay that tlic breath of it kills calves and hiinhs, and that tiie
I iter fort is apt to occafion a dfcay in luch as frtqiienrly have ihem tame about them ;
efpccially fuch as ruHer them to fuck and lickuhout tiu-ir mouths.

The infiri'jr IJlcs about Skie.

SOABRliTTILlieswit'iina

riur
quarter of a mile to the fouth of the mountain Quillin

it is five mil.s in circumference, and full of l)(<c;s, and httcr for palluraj^c than cultiva-
tion. Ahout a mile on the wefl fide it is covirvJ with wood, and the nil confiMs of
heath and \\rih, liavint; a mixture of the tiicrtHlo all over. The red garden-currants
^vow in this Ifle, and are luppufed to have bet';' carried thither by bir Is. Tlu'rc has
been no venomous creature ever I'een in this liitU-ille until within thell' two ytars laft,
that a blaik and white bi^ fcrpent was feen bv one of the inhabitants, who killod it;
they b>'liev • it came from the oppofitc coafl of Skio, wiure there arc many big ferpcnts.
riiere is abimdance of cod and linjT round this ille.

On the Iciiih of Sleat li^s ifland Oranfa, which is a pcninfult at Inv water; it is a
mile in circumfe-enre, and verv fruitful in corn and gral's. As for the latter, it is laid
Co excel any piece of ^.-round i)f its extent in thnd* puts.

In thf north entry to K\le-Akin lie fevcral fiuall id s ; the biggeft and next to Skie
is llan Nin Gdli'n, :ib.)Uf h.df a mile in circuniftrence, coverrd all over with long healli,
and the irica baaifcra : thi re is abundance of feals and fcalowls about it.

A leai^ue further north lies the iflo I'abbav, abnut two miles in circumference ; it
excels in padnrage, the cows in it afford near tlnuhle the milk tliat tliey viel.l in Skie.
In the dog-days there is a big fly in th s ill' whieii infells the cows, makes them run up
and dow;i, di'compofes them exceedingly, and hiuJers th'ir feeding, infomuch that they
IT n'l b" brought (Hit of t!ie ide to the ille of S! i'. 'I'tiis ille affords abundance of lob-
llers, liw pets, wilks, cr.ibs, and ordinary fea-plants.

About h d! a le.igue further north lies the ftuall ifle Cilliinan, being a quarter of a
mile in circunifeniice ; the whole is covered with lon\» lii/a'h, an I the crini baiiifcrn.
V/itiu'i a call further north lies the iflL- of Scalpa, very near to Skij, five miles in cir-
cumference; it is lUDiinninou'- from the I'ouih > lul alinoH to the norih end, it has wo'^ I

in feveral parts of it ; the fouih end is mod ari'd •, anil is fnutlul iu corn and L'.r.i!"-

About a mill* furth t north is the ifl • Rafay, being fey. n miles in len"th, and tlirei;
in br-adtli, floping on the w'-'t and caft (i.les ; it has lo-nc wood on all tlie q'.i:ii-t rs of
it, the whole is fitter tor p.nlurage tli ,n ( e.iivat'on, th" ground being generally very
ui. equal, but very w<ll wafred with rivuKis and fprings. 1 here is a Ipring runnin ■;
down the fice'i a high rock on the e.iil file of the ifle ; it peirittes into a >v!iite ful--
Ifijice, i)f which very tine lime is mad'', and ;h fe is a uri.:.' quantity ot it. 'I'hcre is a
quarry of good itone on the f.e.ne l';d • of rh • ifle; there is abundance of caves on the
weit lide, which ferv.' fo lodge feverd fimiiie:;, who, for their convenience in graziii;.:,
fiili'iig, hc.y rcfort thither in the lumn r. ( 'n the well fide, partieularly near to th-
villigv r.ldcfian, the {hore aK)und>: vdUi bnootii (lones of difl'erenr fizes, variigated .-el

over.

le.

Tlie fame cattle, f j
Th

nl, ritul lilh ate produced here that atv found in the ifle ef
ere is a law obf^rvra by the L.itivcs, that ail tljeir fUhing dim s niuil b • of

2 «qu;d

WP.4TERN ISLANDS OF ftCOTLANO. 627

equal length ; for tho longeft is always fiippDlLvl to have bell accefs to the lifli, wliieli
would prove a ilil.ulvantapf to (iich as Ini^lll have (b 1 vr ones.

TlK-re arc louu; l.^rts in this illc, tiic liii',l»o(t is ni tlu; fouth cnJ, it is a natural
ftrcngth, aiul in form like the crown of a hat ; it is called i")iinn-Cann, whiih the na-
tives will needs have to be Irom otu? Ciiuie, couHn to the Kiufif oF Denmark. 'rh'»
otiu'r lies on die lide, is au arliiici:'.l fort, three (Inriej high, and is called Callle Vrcokle.
The proprietor of the ifle is Mr. Muc-Lcod, u cadet of the family of that name ; his
feat is in the village Clachan, the itihabitant:. hwe as great vcneratioi\ for him as any
lubjeds can have for ihtir kini';. They prelVrye the Miemory of the deceafed ladies o(
the place, by ereftin>jr a little pyramitl of [tone for each of them, wiih the lady's name.
Thefcpyraniiils are by them called ci'oil s ; fevcralof them are built of ilone and lime,
and have three Heps ot j^radual aiceut to thcin. Th,;ie are ei^ht fuch crofles about the
village, which is adorned with a little tow-r, and leller houles, and an orchard with fo.
veral forts of berries, pot-herbs, 6cc. 'I'hj inhal'itants arc all protedants, and ufe the
fame ianguaj>;'', habit, and diet with the natives of Skie.

About a quarter i)f a mile further north lies the ille Rona, which is three miles in
length : velfels pais through the narrow channel between Rol'ay and Rona. This little
ifle is the mod uneqml rocky piece of ground to be feen any where ; there is but very
few acres ht for digging, the whole is covered with long heath, erica baccifera, wertilltts,
fi uvl Ibme mixture of grafs; it is r. ckoned very fruitful in palfurage ; moll of the rocks
v ilift of the heftic Hone, atid a confiderable part of them is of a red colour.
There is a bay on the fouth-wed end of the ifle, with two entries, the one is on the
wed fide the other on the fouth, but the latter is only acceflible ; it has a rock within
the cntr>, and a good tdhing.

About three leagues to the north-weft of Rona is the ifle Fladda, being almoft joined
to Skie ; it is all plain arable ground, and about a mile in circutnference.

About a mile to the north lies the ifle Altwig, it has a high rock facing the eaft, is
near two miles in circumference, and is reputed fruitful in corn and grafs; there is a
little old chapel in it, dedicated to St. 1 uros. There is a rock of about forty yards in
length at the north end of the ifle, diftinguiflied for its commodioufnefs in fifhing.
Herrings are feen about this rock in great numbers all fummer, infomuch that the filher-
boats are fometimes as it were entangled among the Ihoals of them.

The ifle of Tro Ja lies within half a league to the northernmod point of Skie, called
Hunifli ; it is two miles in circumference, fruitful in corn and grafs, and had a chapel
dedicated to St. Columbus. The natives tol I me that there is a couple of ravens in
the ifle, which fulFer none other of their kind to come thither ; and when their own
young are able to fly, they beat them alio away from the ifle.

Fladda-Chuan, i. e. Fladda of the Ocean, lies about two leagues diftant from the
wed fide of liiiniih point ; it is two miles in compafs, the ground is boggy, and but
indifli'erent for corn and grafs: the ifle is much frequented for the plenty of fifli of all
kinds on each quarter of it. There are v6ry big whales which purlue the fifli on the
coad ; the natives didinguifli one whale for its bignefs above all others, and told me
that it had many big limpets growing upon its back, and that the eyes of it were of fuch
a prodigious bignefs, as ilruck no fmall terror into the beholders. There is a chapel
in the ifle dedicated to St. Columbus, it has an altar in the ead end, and there is a blue
Hone of a round form on it, which is always moid. It is an ordinary cullom, when any
of tiie fdhermen arc detained in the ifle by contrary winds, to wafti the blue done with
water all round, expeibng thereby to procure a favourable wind, which the credulous
ten. ant living in the ifle fays never fails, efpecially if a ftranger wafti the done : the done

4 L '2 is

?•#•'

rif;

628

martin's description of thb

is likewife applied to the fides of people troubled with ditches, and they fay it is effeftual
for that puipofe : and fo great is the regard they have for this (lone, that they fwear
dccifive oaths on It.

The monk O'Gorgon is buried near to this chapel, and there is a ftonc five feet high
at each end of his grave. There is abundance of fea-fowl that come to hatch their
young in the ifle ; the coulter-nebs are very numerous here, it comes in the middle of
March, and goes away in the middle of Auguft : it makes a tour round the ifle fun-ways
before it fettles on the ground, and another at going away in Augull ; which ceremony
is much approved by the tenant of the ifle, and is one of the chief arguments he made
ufe of for making the like round, as he fets out to fea with his bont.

There is a great flock of plovers, that come to this ifle from Skie, in the beginning
of September ; they return again in April, and arc faid to be near two thoufand in all :
I told the tenant he might have a couple of thefe at every meal during the winter and
fpring, but my motion fcemed very difagrccabic to him ; for he ilcclared that he
had never once attempted to take any of rhem, though he might if lie would : and at
the fame time told me, he wondered how I could imagine that he would be I'o barbirous
as to take the lives of fuch innocent creatures as came to him only for felf-prefervation.

There are fix or feven rocks within didance of a muflcet-fliot on the fouth-eafl fide
the ifle, the fea running between each of them : that lying more oafterly is the fort
called Bord Cniin, i. e. a round table, from its round form ; it is about tli'- .' hundred
paces in circumference, flat on the top, has a deep well within it, the whole is larrounded
with a deep rock, and has only one place that is acccflible by climbing, and that only by
one man at a time : there is a violent current of a tide on each fide of it, which con-
tributes to render it an impregnable fort, it belongs to Sir Donald iVJacdonald. One
fingle man above the entry, without being cxpofed to fliot, is able, with a daft" in his hand,
to keep off five hundred attackers; for only one can climb the rock at a time, and that
not without difficulty.

There is a high rock on the wed fide the fort, which may be fecured alfo by a few-
hands.

About half a league on the fouth fide the round table lies the rock Jofltir, i. e. Fiflier,
becaufe many filhing-boats refort to it ; it is not higher than a fin.iU velfil under fail.
This rock affords a great quantity of fcurvy-grafs, of an extraonlinary fize, and very
thick ; the natives eat it frequently, as well boiled as raw : two of them told me that
they happened to be confined there for the fpace of thirty hours by a contrary wind j
and being without viduals, fell to eating this fcurvy-grafs, and finding it of a fweet
fade, far different from the land fcurvy-grafs, they eat a large baflict full of it, which
did abundantly fatisfy their appetites until their return home: they told me alfo that it
was not in the lead windy, or any other way troublefome to them.

Ifland Tulm on the wed of the wing of Skie, called Troternefs, lies within a mufquc t-
-fliot of the caflle of the name ; it is a hard rock, and clothed with grafs ; there are two
caves on the wed fide, in which abundance of fea cormorants build and hatch.

About five leagues to the fouth- wed fro.n Tulm lies the ifland Afcrib, which is divided
into feveral parts by the fea ; it is about two miles in compafs, and aflords very good
padurage ; all kinds of fifli abound in the neighbouring fea. On the fouth-wed lide of
the ifle Afcrib, at the didanceof two leagues, lie the two fmall ifles of Timan, direclly
in the mouth of Loch-arnifort j they are only fit for padurage.

On the wed fide of Vaternis promontory, within the mouth of Loch-fallart, lies IGi,
two miles in compafs, being fruitful ia corn aad grafs, aud is commodious for fifliing of
cod and ling.

There

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 629

There are two fmall ifles, called Mingoy, on the north-eaft fide of this ifle, which
afford good pafturage.

There is a red fliort kind of dulfe growing in the fouth end of the ifle, which occafions
a pain in the head when eaten, a property not known in any other dulfe whatever.

The two ifles Bnia and Harlas lie in the mouth of Loch Brackadil ; they are both
pretty high rocks, each of iheni about a mile in circumference ; they afford good paf-
turage, and there are red currants in thefe fmall ifles, fuppofed to have been carried
there at fird by birds.

The fouthcrn parts of Skie, as Sleat and Strath, are a month earlier with their grafs
than the northern parts ; and this is the reafon that the cattle and (hecp, &c. bring
forth their young fooner than in the north fide.

The days in funimer are much longer here than in the fouth of England or Scotland,
and the nights fliorter, which about the fuminer folftice is not above au hour and an
half in length j and the further we come fouth, the contrary is to I. e obferved in
proportion.

The air here is commonly moifl and cold : this difpofos the inhabitants to take a
larger dofe of brandy or other ftrong liquors than in tne louth of Scotland, by which
they fancy that they qualify the moillure of the air : this is the opinion of all Grangers,
as well as of the natives, lince the one as well as the other drinks at loa(t trL'bl-j the
quantity of brandy .'n Skie and the adjacent ifles, than they do in the more louthcrn
climate.

The height of the mountainvS contributes much to the moifture of the place, but more
efpecially the mountain Ouillin, which is the hufbandman's almanack ; tor it is com-
monly obferved that if the heavens above that mountain be clear and without clouds
in the morning, then it is not doubted but the weather vill prove fair ; et c contra, the
height of that hill reaching to the clouds breaks tliem, ai;d then they prefently after fall
down in great rains acconlnig as the wind bknvs : thus .vhen the wind blows from the
fouth, then all the ground lying to the north of Quillin hills is wet with rains, whereas
all the other three quarters are dry.

The fouth-well: winds are obferved to carry more rain with them than any other,
and blow much higher in tiie inofl northern point of Skic than they do two miles fur-
ther fouth; for which I could perceive no vifible caufe, unlefs it be the heii^iit of the
hill, about two miles fouth from that point ; for after we come to the fouth iide of it,
the wind is not perceiveil to be fo higii as on the north fide by half.

It is obferved of the call wind, that though it blow but very gentle in the idc of Skie,
and on the wed fide of it, for the fpace of about tliree or four leagues towarJs the weft,
yet as we advance more wefterly it is fenfibly higher; and when we come near to the
coalt of the more welteni ifles of UUl, Harries, fee. it is obferved to blow very frelh,
though at the fame time it is almoft calm on the welt fiiie t ic ifle Skie. The wind is
attended with fair weather, both in this and other weflern illos.

The fea in the time of a calm is ol)ferved to have a riiiiig motion, before the north
wind blows, which it has not before the approaching of any »)ther wind.

The north wind isflill colder, and more deli rudive to corn, cattle, c<ce. than any other.

"Women obferve that their breads contrad to a leffer bulk when the wiiul blows frem
the north, and that tln-n they yield lefs milk than when it blows from any other quarter;
and they make the like obllrvation in other creatures that ;;ive milk.

They' obferve that when the fea yields a kind of pleaiant and iVect fcent, it is a fure
prefage of fair weather to enlue.

Tlie wind in funimer blows ilronger by land than by fea, and the contrary in winter.

!':<!

; 4

''!

«.'f!*

630

martin's description of the

In the fummer the wind is fometimes obferved to blow trom cliiTerent quarters at the
fame time : I have feen two boats fail quite contrary ways, \intil they came within id's
than a league of each other, and then one of them was bcculmed, and tiic other con-
tinued to (ail forward.

The tide of ebb here runs foutherly, and the tide of flood northerly, wiicrc no head,
lands or promontories are in the way to interpofe ; lor in iucii caiV-s tlie tides are ob-
ferved to hold a courfe quite contrary to the ordinary motion in thcle iflos, and
the oppofite main land : this is obfervcd between the eaft iide of Skic and the oppofile
continent, where the tide of ebb runs northerly, and tlie tide of Hnoil foutherly, as Far
as Killach-llone, on the fouth-eaft of Skie ; both tides rumiing directly contrary to wiiat
is to be feen in all the wedern ifles and oppofite ccmtinent. The natives at Kylakiil
told me that they had feen three different ehbings fucccHively on that part o> Skie.

The tide of ebb is always greater with north winds, than when it blows from any other
quarter ; and the tide of llood is always higher v* ith louth winds than any other.

The two chief fpring-tides are on the tenth of ScptemhLr, and on the tenth or twen-
tieth of March.

The natives are very much difpofcd to obferve the influence of the moon on himian
bodies, and for that caufe they never dig tlieir peats but in the decreale ; for they ob-
ferve that if they are cut in the increafe, they continue flill nu)iil, and never burn clear,
nor are they without fmoke, but the contrary is daily obferved of peats cut in the
decreafe.

They make up their earthen dykes in the decreafe only, for fuch as are made at the
increafe are ftill obferved to fall.

They fell their timber, anu cut their ruflies in time of the decreafe.

The Difcafes known and not known in Skie tind the adjacent IJJes.

THE gout, corns in the feet, convulfions, madnefs, fits of the motlier, vapours, palfy,
lethargy, rheumatifms, wens, ganglions, king's-ovil, ague, furfeits, and confumptions
are not frequent, and barrennefs and abi^rtion \Qrj rar?.

Ihe difeafesthat prevail here are fevers, ditches, cholic, head-ach, moprim, jaundice,
fciaii.a, flone, fmall-pox, meafles, rickets, fcurvy, worms, .luxes, tooth-ach, cuugli, and
fquinance.

The ordinary remedies ufed by the natives are taken from plants, roots, flones, ani-
mals, &c.

To cure a pleurify, the letting of blood plentifully is an ordinary remedy.

AVhcy, in which violets have been boiled, is ufed as a cooling and rcfreflilng drink
for fuch as arc ill of levers. When the patient has not a fweat duly, thiir Ihii t is
boiled in water, and afterwards put oh them, which caufes a fpeedy Iweat. When the
patient is very coflivc, and without paflage by ftodl or urine, or paffes the ordinary time
of fweating in fevers, two or thro- ' mdfuls of the leaplant called dulie, boiled in a
little water, and fome frclh butter ..ih it, and the infufion drunk, procurts a palfi^je
both ways, and fweat (hortly after: the dulfe, growiiig on (tone, not that <n\ (he fca-
ware, is only proper in this cale.

To procure fleep Axcr a fever, the feet, knees, and ancles of the patient are waflu-d
in warm water, into which a good quantity of chick-weed is put, and afterv\ards Iduio
of the plant is applied warm to the neck, and between the (houldcrs, as the patient giies
to bed.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 63I

The tops of nettles, chopped fmall, and mixed with a few whites of raw eggs, applied
to the forehead and temples, Hy way of a frontel, is ufed to procure fleep.

Foxglove, applied warm plaifterwife to the part affetted, removes pains that follow
after fevers.

The fea-plant linarich is ufed to procure fleep, as is mentioned r.mong its virtues.

Erica bacctfera boiled a little in watpr, and applied warm to the crown of the head
and temples, is fed likewife as a remedy to procure fleep.

To remove ditches, when letting blood does not prevail, the part afflfled is rubbed
with an ointment made of camomile and frefh butter, or of brandy with frelh butter ;
and others apply a quantity of raw fcurvy-grafs chopped fmiiU.

The fcarlet-fovei-, which appeared in this ifle only within thele two years lad, is ordi-
narily cured by drinking now and then a glafs of brandy. If an infant happen to be
taken with it, the nurfe drinks fome brandy, which qualifies the milk, and proves a fuc-
colsful remedy.

1 he common alga, or fea-ware, is yearly ufed wnh fuccefs, to manure ths fruit-trees
in Sir Don.i'd Macdonald's orchard at Armidill : fevend affirm that if a quantity of
fea-ware bo ufetl .ibout the roots of fruit-tr^es, whole growth is hindered b; the fea air,
this will make them grow and produce fruit.

Hi-ad-ach is removed by taking raw dulle and linarich applied cold by w.iy of plaitler
to the temples. This likewife is ufed as a remedy to remove the megrim.

The jaundice is cured by the vulgar as fo'lows : the patient beiuiT llrip.ied nakel be-
hind to the n-iiddle of the back, he who atts the furgeon's part marks the l.-venth bone
from the rump on the back with a black ftroke, in order to toach it with his tongs, as
mentioned already.

Sciatica is cured by applying the cafe with the fat of the carara-fowl to the thigh bone;
and it muff not be removed from thence till the cure is performed.

FIamuh-jovis,or fpire-wort, being cut fmall, and a limpet-lhell filled with it, and ap-
plied to the thigh bone, caufes a blifter to rile about the bi^rnefs of an egg ; which being
cut, a quantity of watery matter iffues from it : the bliiter rifes three tunes, and being
emptied as often, the cure is performed. The fea-plant linarich is applied to the place,
to cure and dry the wound.

Crnu-foot of the moor is more effeftual for r.iifing a blifter, and curing the fciatica,
than ftiimula-jovis ; for th.t fometimes fails cf breaking or raifing the fkin, but the crow-
foot It idmn tails.

Several of tlic common people have the boldnefs to venture upon the JJamu/ajoviSf
infti ail of A purire : they take a little of the infufion, and drink it in melted frefli butter,
as tiie properell vehicle ; and this preferves the throat from being excoriated.

i' >r r'u,' Itone they tlriiik w i 'Uel without fait : they likewife eat allium, or wild
garlicii, and drink the infufion 01 ' iled in water, which they 6nd effedual both ways.
The ii;fuf!on of the fea plant duii led is alfo good againfl the Itone; as is likewife
the broth of wilksand limpets : and againfl the cholic, coitivenefs, and Ititches, a quan-
tity of fcurvy-^frafs boiled in water, with fome frefh butter added, and pat.>n for fome
days, is an effec^tual remedy.

To kill worms, the infufion of tanfy in whey or aquavita:, taken fafling, is an ordi-
nary medicine with the iflanders.

Caryophylaui/ilpina chamedreos fol: it grows on marble in divers part?, about Chrifl-
Church in Strath ; never obferved before in Britain, and but once in IrJand, by
Mr. Hiaton. Morifon's Hift. Ray Synoplis, 137.

Carmel,

"I I

• i\

;^f

V,i

iili

9' a

63a martin's descriptiox of the

Cai-mcl, ii/iiis KnapharJ, by Mr. James Sutherland calle.l AvgiUUts Syhaikus : it l>as
a blue flower In July v the plant itfclFis not ufeii, but the root is enlcn to expel wind:
ami tl'AV (ay it prevents drunkennefF, by fr(.H.iueii«^ rhowing of it ; and being ib uled,
j^ivcs :\ good reiilh to all liquors, milk only excepted. It is aromatick, and the natives
prefer it to fpice, for brewing Jquaviia j the root wiilkcep for many years : fome fay
that it iscoulial, and allays hunger.

;Shuunis is a plant highly vakied by the natives, who cat it raw, and alfo boiled with,
rOi, fkfhj and milk: it is ufed as a foverei'^n remedy to cure the flieep of the cough;
the root eaten fafting, expels wind : it was not known iu Hritain, except in the north
\:A\ ifles, and fome parts of the oppofite continent. Mr. James Sutherland fent it to
1'' ranee fome years ago.

A quantity of wild fage chewed between one's teeth, and put into the ears of cows or
flicep that become blind, cures them, and perfeC;tly reltores their fight ; of which there
are many frefli inlhinces both in Skie and Ilanios, by perfons of great integrity.

A quantity of wild fage choped fmall, and eaten by horfes mixed with their corn, kills
worms ; the horie mult not drink for ten hours after eating it.

'i'hoinfufion of wild fage after the fame manner, produces the like eftect.

Wild fage cut fmall, and mixed among oats given to a horfi fafting, and kept with-
out drink for fevcn or eight hours alter, kills worms.

Fluxes are cured by taking now and then a fpoonful of the fyrup of blue berries
that grow on the Mertillus.

Plantain boiled in water, and the heclic-llonc licated red hot quenched in the fame, is
fuccefsfully uieu for fluxes.

Some cure the tooth-ach, by applying a little of the Jlamulajovis, in a limpet-flicll, to
the temples.

A green turf heated among embers, as hot as can be endured, and by the patient ap-
plied to the fide cf the head artecl:ed, is likewife ufed for the tooth-ach.

For coughs and colds, water gruel with a little butter is the ordinary cure.

For coughs and hoarfenefs, they ufe to bathe the feet in warm water, for the fpace of
a quarter of an hour at-lealt; and then r<ib a little quantity of deer's greafe (the older
the better) to the iolos of their feet by the fire ; the deer's grcal" alone is futlicient in
the morning : and this method muft be continued until the cure is performed. And it
may be ufed by young or old, except women with child, for the firft four months, and
fuch as are troubl.-d with vapours.

Harts-tongue and Maiden-hair, boiled in wort, and the ale drunk, is ufed for coughs
and confumptions.

Milk or water, whercia the heftic-ftone hath been boiled or quenched red-hot, and
bemg taken for ordinary drink, is alio clficacious againit a coniumption.

The hands ani" feet often wafhcd in water, in which the heilic ftone has been boiled,
is eileenicd reltorauve.

Yarrow with the hectic flone boiled in milk, and frequently drunk, is ufed for con-
fun^ptions.

\Vattr-grucl is :'lfo found by cxperltnce to be good for confumptions , i purifies the
blood, and procures ai>petite, when drunk without fait.

There is a fmith in the parifli of Kil-martin, who is reckoned a doftor for curing
faintnefs of the fpirits. This he pcriornis in the following manner :

Thi.' paiient being laid on the anvil with his face uppermoft, the fmith takes a big
Iiaminer in both hands, and making his face all grimace, he approaches his patient ;
and tlicn drawing his hammer from the ground, as if defigned to hit him with his full

13 llrengtU

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. ' 633

ftrcnpth en his forelicael, he ends in a feint, elfe he would be fure to cure the patient of
fill diieafi-s : but the fmith being accuftomed to the performance, has a dexterity of
managing his hammer with difcrction ; though at the fame time he mufl do it fo as to
llrike terror in the pulient : and this they fay has always the defigned eflx<ft.

liie fmith is famous for his pedigree; for it has been obferved of a long time, that
there has been but one only child boni in tiie fa-'Mly, and that always a foii, and when
he arrived to man's ellate, the father dietl prelently after : the prcfenf Anith piakes up
the thirteenth generation of that race of people who are bread to be finiths, and all of
them pretend to this cure.

Iliaca pnjj'to, or twilling of the guts, has been fevcral times cured by drinking a draught
of cold water, with a Httlc oatmeal in it, and then hanging the patient by the heelb for fome
time. The lalt inllance in Skie was by John Morrifon, in the village of Talilker, who
by this remedy alone cured a boy of fourteen years of age. Dr. Pitcairn told me, that
the like cure had been performed in the fhire of Fife for the fame difcafe. A cataplafm
of hot dulfe, with its juke, applied feveral times to the lower part of the belly, cured the
iiuic pajfton.

The lea plant dulfe is ufed, as is faid above, t remove cholicks ; and to remove that
diftempcrand coftivenefs, a little quantity offn 'i butter, and fome fcurvy-grafs boiled,
and eaten with its infufion, is an ufual and effeftual remedy.

A large handful of the fea-plant dulfe, growing upon ftone, being applied outwardly,
as is mentioned above, againit the iliaca pajjio^ takes away the after-birth with great eafe
and fafety ; this remedy is to be repeated until it produce the defired effeft, though fome
hours may be inter. uitted : the freflier the dulfe is, the operation is the {Ironger ; for if
it is above two or three days old, little is to be expected from it in this cafe. This plant
feldom or never fails of fuccefs, though the patient had been delivered feveral days be-
fore ; and of this I have lately feen an extraordinary inltance at Edinburgh in Scotland,
■when the patient was given over as dead.

DuUe, being eaten raw or boiled, is by daily experience found to be an exceilenta an
tifcorbutic ; it is better raw in this cafe, and mufl be 'irft waflied in cold water.

For a frafture, the firft thing they apply to a broken bone, is the while of an egg,
and fome barley meal ; and then they tie fplinters round it, and keep it fo tied for fome
days. When the fplinters are untied, they make ufe of the following ointment, viz. a
like quantity oi hctonica pauli^ St. John's wort, golden-rod, alt cut and bruifed in fheeps'
greaie, or frefli butter, to a confiftence ; lome of this they fpread on a cloth, and lay on
rhe wound, which continues untied for a few days.

Giben of St. Kilda, i. e. the fat of lea fowls made into a pudding in the ftomach of the
fowl, is alfo an approved vulnerary for man or bealL

'Ihe \ ulgnr make purges of the infufion of fcurvy-grafs, and fome freifh butter ; and
this they continue to tak-j for the fpace of a week or two, becaufe it is mild in its ope-
ration.

They ul'e the infufion of the fea-plant ilulfe, after i: e fame manner, inftead of a
purge.

Kyes that are blood-fliot, or become blind for fome days, are cured hereby applying
fome blades of the plant feni, „ ; '. the yellow is by them reckoned bed ; ♦.! they mix
with the white of an egg, and K f it on fome coarfe flan — and the egg next to the- face
and browf, and the patient is ordered to Hern his back.

To ripen a tumor, or boil, they cut female jr-cobea fmall, mix it with fome frefii hut-
Vrr • J. hot ftone, anii -^f ; <^' it warm; and i ipens and draws the tumor quickly,

Vt'l. ill.

4 M

and

«34

martin's DttSCRlPTION or TMIi

and withovit pain: tho fame remcJy is uiod for women's broalls tliat are hard, or
1 welled.

l''or taking iho fjroms out of tho IianJs, tiicy ufe allies of burnt fi-a-ware, mixed with
l;iiC water ; and wafliini:: their hands in it, without drying them, it kills the worms.

Ikirnt allies of fea-ware prefervc cheefe inllead. of fait ; which is fr'-qiu-ntly pradifed
ill th.is i<l\ Anescf burnt fea-ware fcower llaxcn thread better, and make it whiter
than nny thinv; e!;.?.

Whtn rhcir ftej are uvcllcd and benumbed with cold, they fcarify their heels with a

'i hey mnko pliilers > f '. : plant Mercury, and fome of the vulgar ufe it as a purge, fov
\vh 1 1' it fej-'is bo.ii w;*y' .

'riu y make glifterr. ^lili of tho roots of fliij^s, water, and fait butter.

'Ih.' • Irive found out a II range remedy for fuch as could never eafo nature at feaby
Kool o\- uimc : (here were t'lree fuch men in the pnrilh of St. Mary's in Trotternefs,
two of lb' m I knew, to wit John Mac-Phade, and Finlay Mac-Phade ; they lived on thu
coail, and wen', oii.r a liHiing, and alter they had fpent fome nine or ten hours at lea,
their bellies would '"well : for after all their endeavours to get pallage cither ways, it
varimpractics' V' until they came to hmd, and then they found no difficulty in the thing,
jhis wa-, u great .nconvioienee to any boat's crew in which cither of thele t.hreo men
had been iiihing, for it obliged them often to forbear when the iilhing was molk plenti-
ful, and to row to the Ihore with any of thole men that happened to become fick ; for
landing was the only remedy. At length one of their companions thought of an ex-
periment to remove this inconvenience ; he confidered, that when any of thefe men had
got their feet on dry ground, they could then cafe nature with as much freedom as any
other perfon ; and therefore he carried a large green turf of earth to the boat, and
placed the green fide uppermoft, without telling the reafon. One of thefe men who was
iiibiodl to tlie infnniitv above-mentioned, perceiving an earthen turf in the boat, was
furprizcd at tho fight of it, and enquired for what purpofe it was brou;:,ht thither ? He
that laid it there aniwered, that he had done it to ferve him, and that when he was dif-
pofed to cafe nature, he might find himfelf on land, though he was at lla. The other
took this as an afircnt, lb that from words they came to blows: their fellows with
much ado did feparate them, and blamed him that brought the turf into the boat, finco
Juch a lancy could produce no other efl'ed than a quurrtl. All of them employed their
time eagerly in fifhing, until fome hours after, th.;t the angry man, who before was fo
much allronted at the turf, was fo ill of the fwellinj; of his belly as ufual, that he
b.egged the crew to row to the fliore, bnt this was v:.ry dilobligiiig to them all. He
that intended to try the experiment with the lurf, bi.l tiie fuk man ihuui on it, ami he
might exped to have fuccels by it ; ' u' he refuled, and Hill refeiitc-d the aflVoiit which
he thought was intended upon him : but at lall all the boat's cew urged him to try
what the turf might produce, fince it could not make him worio th.an h.; was. 'I'he
man l.eing in grt .it ,jain, was by their repeatoil iinpnruiuities pruvailod u|)ou to (hmd
with his feet en the turf; and it had the willieil eileCt, for nature became obedient
both ways: and 'hen the angry man changed his note, for he thanked his dodor, whom
he had fome hours before beat. And from that time pt -le )f thefe three men ever went
to lea without a greetv nirf in the bonf, vh». . prfA- >l elfeCtu.d. Ihis is matter of fad
fu'; cifHtly knowii and atttlted by the be*'.- part oftn^ jjar (liioners llid living upon the

The

>!5^

W£STKRN ISLANDS Or SCOTLAND. 6^$

The ancient way tlie iflandcrs ufed fo procure fweat, v/as thus : a part of an earthen
floor was covered with fire, and when it was fu0iciently heated, the fire was taken away,
and the ground covered with a licap of Hraw ; upon this Uraw a quantity of w.itcr wns
poured, and tlie patient lying on the Itraw ;, the heat of it put his whole body into a
Iwcat.

To caufe any particular part of his body to fweat, they dig an hole in an earthen
floor, and fill it wilh ha/el llickr-, and dry r ilhis ; i.bove thvjfe they put a hedtick-ftone
red hot, and pouring foinc water into the hole, the patient holds the part alTedcd over
it, and this procures a fpeedy Iwcat.

Their common way of i>n)curing fweat is by drinking a large draught of watcr-gruel
with feme butter, as they go to bed.

Of the various Effi'^s of Fifties mfcvcralConJlttutiomin thvfc IjlanJs.

Dongal Mac-Ewan became fovcrifli always after eating of fifh of any kind, except
thornback and dog-fifli.

A ling fifli having brown fpotson the (kin,caufes fuch as cat of its liver, to cafl: their
fl;in from head to foot. This happened to three children iu the hamlet of Taliflcir, after
eating the liver of a brown fpotted ling.

I'inlay Rofs and his family, in the parifli of Uge, having oaten a frefli ling fifli, with
brown fpotson its Ikin, he and they became indilpofed and feverilh for foine few days,
and in a little time after they were bliltered all over. They fay that when the frelh ling
is faltcd a few days, it has no fuch efleft.

There was a horfe in tlie village Dretill, which had the erection backward, contrary
to all other of its kind.

A weaver inFortrle has a faculty of cro(5ling and letting fall his ears at pleafure, and
opens and fliuts his mouili on fuch oecnfions.

A boy in the caflle of Duntulm, called Milter to a by-name, hath a pain and fweliing
in his great toe at any change of the moon, and it continues only for the fpace of one
day, or two at moil.

Allen Mac-lcod, being about ten years of age, was taken ill of a pain which moved
from one part of his body to another, and where it was felt, the (kin appeared blue ; it
came to his toe, thigh, tefticles, arms and head : when the boy was bathed in warm
water, he found molt eafe. The hinder part of his head, which was laR afioftcd, had a
little fweliing ; and a woman endeavouring to fquccze the humour out of if, by brufin;^
it on each fide with her nails, flie forced out at the fame time a little animal near an inch
in length, having a white head fliarp pointed, the reft of its body of a red colour, and
full ol fmall feet on each fide. Animals of this fort have been fvcn in the head and
legs offeveral perfons intheifles, and are dillinguilhed by the name of Fillian.

Vi-aj}, ho'iv prcfcrved by the Nnlhcs,

A rod of onk, of four, five, fix or eight inches about, twifted ro.md like a \vyth>
boiled in wort, -.wul well dried and kept in a little buiulle of barley- (I raw, and oeing
llocped again in wort, caufeth it to ferment, and procures yead : the r^d is cut before
the middle of May, and is frequently ufcd to furnilh yi-all ; and bein;- preferved and
\\\\\\ in tills manner, it fervcs for manv years together. 1 have feen ilie experiment
tried, and was (hewed a piece of a thick wyth, which hath been preferved lor making
ale with, for aliout twentv or thirty years.

4 M 2 T'K'

Hi.

II
f

l'':f

6;i6

MARTIN'S DE8 Il'TION OF llIE

Mi-

m
I*

T/:f Ffi'c'h of eating hcinluck-Rcot.

Fergus Kiilrd, an empiric, living in the vilhii'e 'I'all'ker, havin;^ liy a iniltakc latcii
a hcinlock-root inftcad of the white wild carn/t ; his eyes ilid prclcntiv roll a'n)ut,
his countenance became very pale, his li,i;ht had ahnofl f.iilevl him, the frame of hin
body was all in a (Iranj^e convulfion, and his pudcnJa retired fo invvarJlv, that thcio
was no difcerniup whether he had then been male or female. All the remedy ^rivcn
him in this ftate was a draught of hot milk, and a little aqua-vita adiicd to it ; which
he no fooncr drank, but he vomited prefently after, yet the root Hill remained in his
ftomach. Th«.y continued to adininilier the fame remedy for the fpace of four or five
hours together, but in vain ; and about an hour after they ceafed to give him any
thing he voided the root by ftool, and then v;is rellored to his foriper ilate of health :
he is ftill living, for any thing I know, and is of a ftrong healthful conllitution.

Some few years ago, all the flax in the barony of Troternefs was over-run with a
great quantity of preen worms, which in a few days would have deflroyed it, had not
a flock of ravens made a tour round the ground whir j the flax grew, for the ipace of
fourteen miles, and eat up the worms in a very fliort time.

The inhabitants of this ifle are generally well proportioned, and their complexion is
for the mod part black. They are not obliged to art in fonning their bodies, for
nature never fails to ad her part bountifully to them ; and perhaps there is no part of
the habitable globe where fo few bodily imperfcdions are to be feen, nor any children
that go more early. 1 have oblerved feveral of them walk alone before they were ten
months old : they are bathed all over every morning and evening, fome in cold, fome
in warm water j but the latter is moft commonly ufed, and they wear nothing Rrait
about them. The mother generally fuckles the child, failing of which, a nirtR- is
provided, for they feldom bring up any by hand : they give new-born infants frefli
butter to take away the micotiiwii, and this they do for leveral days ; they talle nei-
ther fugar nor cinnamon, nor have they any daily allowance of fack bellowed on them,
as (he cudom is elfewhcre, nor is the nurfe allowed to lalle ale.

The generality wear neither flioes nor blockings before they are feven, eight, or ten
years old ; and many among them wear no nightcaps bJore they are fixteen rears old,
and upv>;irds; fome ufe none all their life-time, and tliefe are not fo liable tc hcad-
ache8 as others that keep their heads warm.

Thfv ufe nothing by way <f prevention of ficknefs, obferving it as a ni'i' to do little
or nothing of that nature. The abliemiouhiels of the nioiheis is no hnall advantage
to the children : they are a very piolilic people, fo that many of their numerous ilUie
Hiuil feek their fortune on the continent, and not a few in foreign countries, for want
of employment at home. When they are any way fatigued by travel, or otherways,
th( y tail nut to bathe their feet in warm water, wherein red niols has been boiled, and
rub them with it going to bed.

I'he ancient cuHom of rubbing the body by a warm hand oppofite to the fire, is
now laid afide, except from ihe lower part of tlie thigh downwards to the ancle ; this
they rub before and behind, in cold weather, and at going to btd. Their fimple diet
contributes much to their flate of health, and long life ; feveral among them of my ac-
quaintance arrived at the age of eighty, ninety, and upwards ; but the Lady Macleod
lived to the age of one hundred and three years: (he had thrn ,i comely head of hair,
and a cafe of good teeth, and always enjoyed the iree ufe of her underftanding, until
the week in which fhe died.

The

WliSTtKN ISLANDS 01 SCOTLAND. 637

'i'hf inhiibitants of this ami nil tho Wcdcrn iflcs do wear their (hoes after Mr. Locke's
moiic, ill his Bcok of Kduciition ; and, ainoiii^ other great advantages by it, they reckon
tliL-lf two, that ilicy are never troul)led uitli the gout, or corns in their leet.

They he for the moll part on beds of ftraw, and fotne on beds of heath ; which
latter being made alter their way, will) tlie lops uppcrmolf, are almoft as foft as a fea-
ther-bed, and yield a jdealaut fcent after lyiii;^ on them once. The natives by experi-
ence have found it to be eifedhial for drying fupei Ouoiis humours, and ftrengthening
tho nerves. , It is very refrelhiiig after a fatigue of any kind. The Picts are Hiid to
h;we had an art of brewing curious ale with the tups of heath, but they refufed to
cummunicate it to the .Scots, and fo it is quite loit.

A native of this ifle requires treble the dofeof phyfic that will ferve one living in the
fonth of Scetl md for a purge ; yet an ifl:mder is eafier purged in the fouth than at
home. Ihofe of the bell nink are eafier wrought on by purging medicines than the
vulgar.

The inhabitants arc of all people eaficft cured of green wounds ; they are not fo
liable to feverS as others on Inch occafions ; and they never cut off arm or leg, though
never fo ill broke, and take the freedom to venture on all kind of moat and drink,
contrary to all rule in fuch cafes, and yet connnonly recover of their wounds.

Many of the natives, upon ocalion of ficknefs, are difpofed to try experiments, 'n\
which they fucceed fb well, that I could not hear of the leaft inconvenience attending
their pradlice. I fliall only bring one inftance more of this, and that is of the illite-
rate empiric Neil Beaton in Skie ; who of late is fo well known in the ifles and conti-
nent, for his great fuccefs in curing feveral dangerous diftempers, though he never ap-
peared in the quality of a phyfician until he arrived at the age of forty years, and then
alfo witiiout the advaiuage of education. He pretends to judge of the various quaU-
ties of plants and roots, by their diiferent talles ; he has likewife a nice obfervation on
the colours of thetr flowers, from which he learns their adringcnt and loofening qua.
litics ; he extrads the juice of plants and roots, after achymical way peculiar to him-
felf, and with little or no charge.

He conliders his patients' conflitution before any medicine is adminidered to them ;
and he has formed fuch a i'yftcm for curing difeafes, as ferves for a rule to him upon
all occafions of this nature.

He treats Kiveriirb'.s Lilium MeJidna, and fome other praflical pieces that he has
heard of, with contempt ; i''urv in feveral inflances it appears that their methods of
curing has failed whore his h wd fuccefs.

Some of the difeafes cured .ifm are as follows : running fores in legs and arms,
grievous head aehes ; he had the boldnefs to cut a piece out of a woman's fkuU broader
than half a crown, and by this rellored her to perfeft health. A gf^nllewoman of my
acquaiiitaince having contrafted a dangerous pain in her belly, fome uuy after her de-
livery of a child, ami feveral medicines being ufed, (he was thought puft locovery, if
flie continued in that condition a few hours longer ; at Vc^ this doftor happe^^.ed to
come there, and being employed, applied a fimple plant to the part alTeclod, and re-
Aored the patient in a quarter of an hour after the application.

One of his patients told me that he fent him •< cap interlined with fome feeds,
&c. to wear for the cough, which it removed in a little time ; and it had the like effect
upon his brother.

The fuccefs attending this man's cures was fo extraordinary, that feveral people
thought his performances to have proceeded rather from a compad with the devil, than
from the virtue of finiplcs. To obviate this, Mr, Beaton pretends to have had fome

14 education

.C.-^v

638 martin's nFscaiPTiON op the

cJiiration fioin his father, tIioui:;h ho ilioJ when he hinifclf was but a !•• I havo dif.
courlWl with him foriiuifly :\t difforcnt turns, and ;im tully fatislioil, flui . ufcs no un-
lawful iiu\»ns i\)V obtaining his end.

His difcourfo of the foveral cnnlHtiitions, th.t' qiialitic:, of pl.ints, &c. was more foli<l
than cduKI have boon oxpt-dcd from one of his ctlucaiion. Several fick pcopK' from
remote ilh^s caiue to him ; and fomc fron) ilio fluio cif Rofs, at fi-vtiiiy miles ilill.incf,
fent for his advice : 1 left him very fiicce|j.lul, but can f,ive no further account of him
fincc that time.

They are generally a very f.igacious p.^ople, quick of appnhrnfion, and even the
vulgar exceed all thofo of ihiir rank and education I ever yet law in any other country.
They have a great genius for mufic aiul nuchaiiic«. I have* obferved foveral of their
children, that, before thi'y could fpeak, were capable to dillinguilh ami make choice
of one tune before another upon the violin ; for they always appeared uneafy until
the tune which they fancied bell was played, and then they c\j)reil'ed their fatijiadion
by the motions of their head and hands.

'Ihere are feveral of them who invent tunes very taking in the fouth of Scotland,
and clffwhere : fome mulicians have endeavoured to n;\fs for iirrt inventers of them
by changing their name, bui this has been impracViC.ble ; iov whativcr l.in(»uage gives
the modern name, the tune flill continues to fpeak its true original : and of this 1 have
been fljewed feveral inllances.

Some of the natives arc very dexterous in engraving trees, birds, deer, dogs, &c.
upon bone, and horn, or wood, without any other tool than a fliarp-pointed knife.

.Several of both fexrs have a .luick vein of p'lcly, and, in their language, (which is
very empliaiic) they compofe rhyme and vcrle, both which powerfully amct the fancy :
and, in my judgment, (which is not finj^fular in this matter,) with as great forcr as that
of any ancient or modern poet I ever y. t read. '1 luy have generally very retditivc
memories, tluy fee things at a great dilt.uiee. The unhappinef; of tlieir eilucaiion,
and their w nt of converfe wi;'. foreign nations, t'cprives them of the opportunity to
cultivate an. I beauiify i:..ir gi • us, wiiich !■ ti's u) have b'-en foi-jued by Nature for
great attainments. And, on tb thcr hand, their ri.tirednels may bo rather thought an
advantage, at lead to tiieir better part : according to that of the hilhirian ; P/us rj/nit
{!fuJ his igp.oraiitia vtii.rum^ qtiiim . ^ .d Gnrros oniiuii prcccpta philijl'cphnnji : '* The i-^-
iiorance of vices is tnore powerful amc ig thofe, than all the precepts of philolbphy arc
.among the Greeks."

For they are to this day happily ignorant many vices that are pracliii d in the
learned and polite worKI : 1 could iiuiitioti K\.Tal, iir wliieli ihcy have not as ytt got
a name, or lo mueli as a notion of them.

I'hc diet generally uled by the natives confifts o** ficfli food, for they I'eldom tidlc
ary that is (alted, except butter; the geneiahty la^ but little flefh, and only perlons
of dill'ucHon tat it i^ery day, and make three meals, tor all the rell eat only two, and
they eat more boiled than roafted. 1 heir ordinary dit t is butter, cl.ecfe, ini'k, pota-
toes, C(.iworts, brociian, i.e. oatmeal and v ..tor boileil ; the latter taken wirh lomc
bread is the cond.iiit iood of feveral thoula'id.s of both fexes in this and otiu r iiles,
during the winfef and fpring : yet they underj;o many fatigues both by lla and land,
and are vcr\' health.' ul. Tiiis vtrifi s what the poet faith, I'spulis j'.it cjt ijmpbaqucCe-
rcf'juc : Nature is latist'ied with I rcui and uiii. r.

'ihere is no place fo well ftorcd wiili fuch groat quantity of good Ixef and mntmn,
vh(re 10 littie is confumcd by ea'mg. 'I'iuy gciierally u[t' no fine fauces to entice a
iallc appeuii-, nor branuy or tea for di^' Jlion ; tlie purelt water lerves thctn in luch

^ Caleb ;

WESTERN ISLANDS OF 8C0TLAND. <Jj9

cafes; tills, together with their onlifiary cxorcife, and the free air, prcfervcs their bo-
dicH and minds in a regular franjc, free ironi the various convidfions that ordinarily at-
tend luxury. Thi're is no? on .• of them too corpulent, nor too meaijre.

The mcn-lervaiits have always double the qnmtity of broad, tic. that is given to
womcn-ferviuils ; at which the latt-r are no ways ollended, in regard of the many
latij^iirs by it a and land, which the former uniiiri;o.

Oi/i, which in Knylifh fij^nifies froth, is a difh uled by feveral of the iflanders, and
fome on the oppofite main-lani, in lime of fcircity, when they want bread ; it is made
in the following maim.r : a (inantity of milk or whey is bailed in a pot, and then it i>
wrought up to tne mouth ot the pot with a long Hick of wood, having a crols at the
lower-end ; it is turned about like the Hick fur tnaking chocolate ; and being thus
made, it is fupped with lpoo;is. It is made up live or fix tim.s, in ihj fanv manner,
and llni lull is always reckoned bell, and the firll two or three frothinga the word :
the milk or whey that is in the bottom of the pot is reckoned much better in all re-
Ipcds than Hmplo milk. It may be thought that fuch as feed after this rate, are not
fit fur aftion of any kind ; but i have fcen feveral that lived upon this fort of food,
made of whey only, lor fome months together, and yet they were able to undergo the
ordinary fatigue of their employments, whether by lea or land ; and I have feen theiu
travel to the tops of high mountains, as brilkly as any I ever law.

Some wi 1 live plentifully make this dilh as abovefaid of goats* milk, whicli is faid
to be nourilliing ; the milk is thickened, and tades much better alter fo much work-
ing ; fome add a little butter and nutmeg to it. I was treated with this dilh in feveral
places, anii, being alked whether this laid dilh or chocolate was beft ? I told them that
if we judged by the etfeds, this difli was preferable to chocolate ; for fuch as drink
I'ften of the former, enjoy a belter Hate of health, than thofe who ufe the latter.

The ancient way of drclTing com, which i;, yet ufed in feveral ifles, is cMcdgrad-
J,i>i, fiom the Irilh word ,(;/■</(/; which fignli'ics quick. A woman fitting down, takes
a handful of corn, hoKiiiig it by the llalks in her left hand, and then fets fire to the
I'ars, w Inch are prelently in a flame ; (lie ha? a Hick in her right hand, which (lie
manages very dexieroully, beating oif the grain at the v^ ry inftaut, when the hulk is
qi'.iie huriit ; for if Ihe mil's of that flic mull ufe the kiln, but experience has taught
them tliis art to p.-rfeililion. The corn may be fo drelfc'd, winnowed, ground, and
baked, within an hour after reaping Irom the ground. '1 lie oat bread drclfed as above
is louiening, and that drclled in the kiln aftringent, and of greater llrength for la-
boiirer;' ; but they love the graJJan, as being more agreeable to their talle. This
barbarous cuilom is much l.'.id afide, fmce the number of their mills increafed. Capt.
Fairvveather, mailer oi an Engliih vefli 1, having dropt anchor at Bernera of Glcnleg
over againll ^k.ie, fiw two women at this employment, and, wondering to fee lo much
flame and fnuak, he came near, and finding that it was corn they burnt, he run
away in great halle, tilling the natives that he had feen two mad women very
bnly burning corn : the people came to fee what the matter was, and Uughid at the
Claptain's millakf, iliough he was not a little furprifed at the ftrangcnefs of a cultoui
that lie had never fen or heard of before.

lb. "re are two lairs of late held yearly at Portry on the eafl fule of Skie ; the con-
venience of the harbour, which is in the middle of the ifle, made them chooie this
lk)r the iittell place. The firll holds about the middle of June, the fecund about the

beginning

! H

640 MARTIN** DESCRIPTION OP THE

bfpinniriii i T Septombor, 'I'ho varliuis nn)ducl.^ oi' this ;»iui tlis ailjacont illes and con.
tincnt .'.:" fold hori', viz. horlos, cows, ni;'ep, goat.-i, hiUc%. ikins, butter, checfo, filli,
wool, \« .

All the hoiTcs anil cows I'nlil at thi- f.vir fwitn to the main larul over ono of the forric
or founJs call' il Av/'t', one of which is on tlu- rail, tlif other on tlic fouth fujf of Skio.
That on the ♦all is .iboiit a niilf bnuil, and tlio oiIkt <>n ih • loiith is half a mile ; tlicy
bi'giii when it is near low water, and fallen a twilli-d wyth abmit tho lower jaw of eacli
cow, the other end of the wylh is f,illon(.'d to another cow's t.dl, and the number To tied
tojToiher is conmionly five. A boat with foiu" oars rows ofl", and a man fitting in the
(Krii, holds the wyth in his hand to keep up the foreinoll cow's head ; and thus all thi;
five cowsfwim as i.ift as the boat rows ; and in this manner above an hundred may be
be firried over in one day. Thefe cows an' lunu timc.^' drov^- above four iumilrcd miles
further fouth ; they foon i;row fat, and prove fweet and tender beef.

T/jcir Habit,

Tlie firft habit wore by pcrlbns of diftinflion in the iflands was tlic kni-croich, from
the Irifh word Icniy which fignifies a (hirt, and crotch lallron, becaufe their Ihirt was
dyed with that herb : the ordinary number of ells ufed to make this robe was twenty-
four ; it was the upper garb, reaching below the knees, and was tied with a belt round
the middle : but the iflanders have laid it afide about a hundred years ago.

They now generally ufe coat, waidcoat, and breeches, as elle where; and on their
heads wear bonnets made of thick cloth, fome blue, fome black, and fome grey.

Many of the people wear trowis : fome have them very fine woven like (lockings of
thofe made of cloth ; fome are coloured, and others ftripetl : the latter are as well
fliapcd as the former, lying clofe to the body from the middle downwards, and tied
round with a belt above the haunches. There is a fquare piece of cloth which hangs
down before. The meafure for fliaping the trowis is a Hick of wood, whofe length is
a cubit, and that divided into the length of a finger, and lialf a finger; fo that it re-
quires more ikill to make it than the ordinary habit.

The flioes anciently wore were a piece of the hiiie of a deer, cow, or horfe, with the
hair on, being tied behind and before with a point of leather. '1 he generality now wear
Ihoes, having one thin foal only, and fliaped after tlie right and left foot ; fo that what
is for one foot will not fervc the other.

IJiit pcrfons of diflinftion wear the garb in fafliion in the fouth of Scotland.

The plaid, wore only by the men, is made of fine wool, the thread as fine as can b«
made of that kind ; it confifls of divers colours, and there is a great deal of ingenuity
required in forling the colour?, fo as to be agreeable to the riiccll fancy. For this
reafon the women arc at great pains firll to give an vxaLX p;ittcrn of tb;; plaid upo:\
a piece of wood, having the number of every thread of the llripe on it. ihe length
of it is commonly Lven double ells; the one end hangs by the middle over the left
arm, the other going round the body, hangs by the end ever the kelt arm alfo : the
right hand above it is to be at liberty to do any thing upon occafion. Every iile differs
from each other in their fancy of making p'aids, as to the (Iripes in breadth, and colours,
This humour is as different through the main land of the Highlands, in fo far that they
who have foen thofe places are able, at the firll view of a man's plaid, to guefs the place
of his refidcnce.

When they travel on foot, the ptaid is tied on the bread with a bodkin of bone or
wood ( ju(t as thu/pi/ia wore by the Germaos, according to the defcription of C.Tacitus ) :

the

Wr.8Tr.RN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

641

the plad h tied rou''u! t!ic middle with a leather belt ; it is plaited from tlie belt to the
knee very nicely : il'i" diel's for footmen is found much cafier and lighter than breeches
or trowis.

The ancient tn.ij wore by the women, and which is yet wore by fo-ne of the vulvar,
called arifhlf is ;\ white plad, havinji; a few fniall llripcs of black, blue, and red ; it
reached irom the neck to the heels, and was tied before on the breall with a buckle of
lllver or brafs, according to the quality of the perfon. I have fcen fomc of the former
of an hundred marks value ; it was broad as an ordinary pewter plate, tli • whole curi-
oully engraven with various animals, Sic. There was a lelTer bvukle, »vhich was wore
in the middle of the larger, and above two ounces weight ; it had in the centre a largo
piece of chrydal, or fomc liner flone, and this was let all roimd with fevcral Hner Hones
of a lefllr fize.

The pl.ul being plaited all round, was tied witii a belt below the bieall ; the belt
was of leather, and fevcral pieces of lilver int'nmivjd witii the leai'u-r like a chain.
The lower end of tiie belt has a piece of plate about eight inches long, and three in
breadth, curioufly engraven ; the end of which was adorned with fine llones, or pieces
ol red coral. They wore fleeves of fcarlet cloth, clofed at tlie end as men's vcfts, with
gold lace round them, having plate buttons fet with line ftoncs. The head-drcls was a
fine kerchief of linen ftrait about the head, hanginrj (town the back taper-wilb ; a large
lock of hair hangs down their cheeks above their brea(t, tlie lower end tied with a knot
of ril)bands.

'1 he iflandcrs have a great rcfpedt for their chiefs and heads of tribes, and they con-
clude grace after every meal with a petition to God for their welfare and profperity
Neither will they, as far as in them lies, futfer them to fink under any misfortune ; but
in cal'eof a decay of cftate, make a voluntary contribution on their behalf, as a common
duty, to fupport the credit of their families.

Wily of Fighting,

The ancient way of fighting was by fet battles ; and for arms, fomc liad broad two-
handed f . rds and head-pieces, and others bows and arrows. When all their arrows
were ff • '''ey attacked one another with fword in hand. Since the invention of
guns, rhry ";

where,

ch;.-i\i

fooh .. ,.,
hilloriant.

?ry early accuftomcd to ufe thenj, and carry their pieces with them

il)f\ 0: they likevvife learn to handle the broad fword and target. The

cich ti' • advances with his followers within (hot of the enemy, having firft

'.If pij.- • garments ; and after one general difchargc, they attack them with

I . ' .IV.. their target on their left hand (as they did at Killicranky), which

; iiiutter io an illue, and verifies the obfervaiion made of them by your

Aut mors citOi aut viSloria lata.

This ifle is divided into three parts, which are poflreiTed by dlftcrent proprietors. The
fouthern part, called Slait, is the property and title of Sir Donald Macdonald, knight
and baronet : his family is always dillinguilhed from all the tribes of his name, by the
Irifh as well as Englifh, and called Mac-Donald abfolutely, and by way of excellence, he
being reckoned by genealogids anJ all others the fird for antiquity among all the an-
cient tribes, both in the ilk^ and continent. He is lineally defcended h-om Somm-MJcd,
who, according to Buchanan, was thane of Argyle. He got the ifles into hi,s pofllflion
by virtue of his wife's right ; his fon was called Donald, and from him all the families

vol.. HI. 4 ^' °f

'1 *■' m

■|

f.^^

i::i

;'4

■' '4

■■■''I' !

642

martin's description or tub

V {

!!!.

of the name IMac-Doialil are dcfcemleJ. He was the firll of tliat name who had the
litlc of King of the lilos. One of that name fabfcribuig a charter graiiiod by the King
of Scots to the f.unily of Roxburgh, writes as follows : '• Don.iIJ, King of the Ifles,
witnefs." Ho would not pay homr.ge to ti' j King for the illes, but only for the lands
which he held of him on the continent.

One of Donald's fuccoflbrs married a claugliter of King Robert II,, the firfl of the
name of Stuart, by who:a he accjuircd feveral lands in tlio Highlands. The earldom of
Rols cam? to this fanrly, by nuurying the ht-'ircfs of the hoiife of Lcdy. One of the
Earls of Rofs, called John, being of an eafy temper, and too hberal to the church, and
to his vaflals and friends, his fon iEncas (by Buchanan called Donald) was fo oppofite
to his father's conduct, that ho gathered logeiher an army to oblige him from giving
away any more of p.i'> ellate. 'li^ fathc- raifcd an army againll his fon, and fought
!iim at foa, on the coall of Mull; the p .0 is fmce called the Blocdy-bay : the Ion
however had the vidoiy. This dil'nofed tho father to go ilraight to the King, and make
over the right of all his ellate to him. 'i'he ion kept polfeilion fome time after; how-
ever this occafioned ihe fall of that great family, thougii there are yet extant feveral
ancient tribes of the name, both in the illes and continent. Thus far the genealogill
Mae-Vurich, and Hugh Mac Donald, in their manuicrljits.

The next adjacent part to Slait, and joining it on the north fide, is Strath ; it is the
property of tlie laird o\' Mac-Kinnr,n, head of an ancient tribe.

On the north-weit fide of Stialh lies th.f part of Skie called Macleod's country, pof.
felFed by Macleod. Gencalogdls lay he is lineally defccnded from Leod, fon to the
black prince of Man ; he is head of an ancient tribe.

The barony of Tiotcrnels, on the north lid • of Skie, belongs to Sir Donald Mac-
Donald ; the proprietors and ail the ir.habit '.nts are pi-otellants, except twelve, who are
Roman Catholics. The former obferve the fellivals of Chrilliuas, Kaller, Good-Friday,
and that of St. Micliael's. Upon the hut r they have a cavalcade in each paiilh, and
feveral families bake the cake called St. JMichael's bainiock.

THE ifle of Bool, being ten miles in leugtli, lies on tiie well fide of ('owal, from
which it is feparated by a narrow channel, in feveral parts not a mile brinid. The
north end of this ifle is mountainous and heathy, being more deligned for palturage
than cultivation : tiie mouL! is br.iwn or black, and in lome parts clayey ; the ground
yields a good produce of oats, barley, and peaie : there is but iiille wood ^rouin.; there,
yet there is a coppice at the fide of Lochfad. The gromid is arable from the middle
to the fouthward, the heclic-llone is to be had in many parts of this iile ; and there is
a quarry of red Hone nc.ir the lown of Rola, by whi; li the f irt there, and the chapel
on its north fide, have bjen built. Rothlay, the he.ui town ot the ihire ol Boot and
Arran, lies on the call coalt ot Boo*^, and is one of the lilies ol ilie I'lince of Scotland :
King Robert HI. created his fon Duke ot Rothlay, and (Icward ol Scotlaiid ; and aiter-
wards Queen Mary created ihe Loril Darnley Duke of Kothfay, belore iier marriage
with him. This town is a very anciiJit royal borough, but thinly peopled, there not
being above a hundred families in it, and th' y nave no foreign trade. On the rior'h
flue jf Roihiay there is a very ancient ruinous fort, round in form, hiving a thick wail,
and boui three ft Ties hi di, in.! palTages roeiul within the wail , it is furrounded wuii
a wet Uitv h ; it Ins a gate on the louth, and a double gate on the cad, and a ballio'i o^i
tucli liuo hj gate, .nd w thcut ti~cfe iheic J3 a uraw-Liid^e, and the fea !lj\\s wihiu

lor:y

WESTITRN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 643

forty yards of it. The fort is Iiirge enough for excrcifing a battalion of men; it has a
chapel and i'cveral liitle lioulfs within, and a large houle of four (lories high fronting
the ealtern gate. The jjeoplu here have a tradition, that this fort was built by King
Rofa, who is faid to have come to this iflc before King Fergus I. The other forts are
Uown-Owle and Down-Allin, both on tlie v/ell fide.

The churches here are as follow : Kihnichel, Ivil-Blain, and Kil-Chattan,in the fouth
parifh ; and Lady-Kirk in Rothiay is the molt northerly pariflj : all the inhabitants are
proteflants.

The natives here are not troubled with any epidemical difeafe : the i'lnall-pox vifits
them commonly once every fixth or feventh year. The olded man now living in this
ifle is one Fleming, a weaver, in Rothfay ; his neighbours told me that h? could never
cafe nature at fea, who is ninety yeans of age. The inliabitants generally Ipeak the
F.ngliih and Irifli tongue, and wear the fame habit with thole of the oth.cr iflaiii's ; they
are very indullrious iifliers, efpecially for herrinr, for which ufe they are furiiiihed with
about eighty large boats : the tenants pay their i*ent with the profit of herrings, if they
are to be had any where on the weltern coait.

The principal heretors here are Stuart of Boot, who is hereditary flicrifF of this fliire,
and hath his feat in Rofa : Ballantine of Keams, whofe feat is at the head of the bay of
that name, and has an orchard by it : Stuart of Edick, whofe feat has a park and or-
chard. And about a mile to the fouth of Rothfay, next hes two ifles called Cumbrny
the Greater, and the LeiTer ; the former is within a league of Boot. Tiiis ifland has a
chapel and a well, which the natives efteem a catholicon for all dileafes. 1 his ifle hj a
mile in length, but the other ifle is much lefs in compafs. Both illcs are the property of
Montgomery of Skehnoriy.

AiTjn.

THE name of this ifle is by fomc derived from arran, which in the Irifli language
fignifies bread : others think it comes more probably from jrin or orfyii, which in their
language is as much as the place of the giant Fin-iVIac-Cours flaughier or execution ;
for aar fignifies flaughtcr, and fo they will have ariu only the contraclion oi arrin or fin.
The received tradition of the great giant Fin-Mac-Coul's military valour, which he ex-
ercifcd upon the ancient natives here, feems to favour this conjecluiv ; this \Wy fay is
evident from the many Hones fet up in divers places of the ille, as monuments upon the
graves of perfons cf iioie that were killed in battle. 1 his ifle is twenty-lour mihs from
ibuth to north, and fevtn miles from ea(t to wcrt : it lies between the ille of Boot and
Kyntvre, in the oppofite main land. 'I'he ifle is high and mountainous, but flopes on
each lide round the ccafl, and tlieglen is only made ufe of for til!,ige. The mountains
near IV.-odick-bay are of aconfiderableheight ; all the hills generally aiFord a good pal-
turage, though a great part of them be ci-*\'ered only with heath.

'1 lie mouki her., is of ilivcrs < olours, being black and brown near the hills, and clayey
and fandy upon the ct.all.

'i'he natives toid me that fome places of tiie iflo at!'.'rtl fidlers-earth. 'i'he coafl: on
the cad fide is rocky near the ihore ; the (loiies on ihi. coail, for fonie miles beneath
l^rcvlick, are ail of a red colour, ami of thcfe the calUe of Brodick is built. The natives
fay that the mountains near the eallle of i^r.^diek alibrd cryilai, and that the Duehefs
of Hamilton put fo great a value on it, as i.> ;)e at the charge of cutting a necklace of it j
which the inliabitants take as a great h ■.• ~ur d.'ue them, becaufe they have a great ve-
neration for her Grace. There is no cwnliderable woods litre, but a lew coppices, ye*

.1 N ?. that

vi\

i-1

644

martin's descuiphon of the

that in the glen towards the well: is above a mile in Icngili. 'I'hcio are capacious fields
of arable ground on each lide Brodick-bay, as alio on the oppofite wcftern coad. The
largeft and bed Ikld for pallurage is that on tlie fouth-wcll hde.

Several rivers on each fide this ille afiord iahnon, particularly the two rivers on the
welt called Mackir-fide, and the two in Kirkniichel and Brodick-bay.

The air !iere is temperately cold and nioiil, whicii is in fonie meafure qualified by the
frofli breezes that blow from the hills ; but the natives think a dram of (trong-waters is
a good currcdivc.

Ihere are feveral caves on the coaft of this iilo : thofe on the weft arc pretty large,
particularly that in Druim-cruey, a hundred men may fit or lie in it •, it is contrafted
gradii;<lly from the floor upwards to the roof. In the upper end there is a large piece
of rock formed like a pillar ; there is engraven on it a deer, and underneath it a two-
handed fword ; there is a void fpace on each fide this pillar.

The fouih fide of the cave has a horfe-lhoe engraven on it. On each fide the door
there is a hole cut out, and that they fay was for holding big trees, on which the caul-
drons hang for boiling their beef and venifon. The natives fay that this was the cave in
which Fin-Mac-Coul lodged during the time of his refulence in this ifle, and that his
guards lay in the lelfer caves, which are near this big one : there is a little cave joining
to the larg<^(l, and this they call the cellar.

There is a cave fome miles more foutherly or the fame coaft, and they told me that
the minifter preached in it fometimes, in regard of its being more centrical than the
pariih church.

Several crcfled ftones are to be feen on each fide this ifle: four of thcfe arc near
Brodick-bay, about the diftance of foventy yards from the river, and are fevon feet hi^h
each. 'I'he highefl of thcfe llones that fell under my obfervation was on the ibutli fide
of Kirkniichel rivi.-r, and is above fifteen feet high; there is a ftone coflin near it, which
h;i;< been fdled with human bones, until of late that the river waflied away the earth,
and the bones that were in the colfin: Mac-Louis, who had feen them, fays they were
of no larger fize than thofe of our own time. On the welt fide there are three flones
ereded in Baelliminich, and a fourth at fome dillance from thefe, about fix feet high
each. In the moor <i!i the ea'l fide Druiin-cruty there is a circle of ftones, the area is
about ihirtv paces ; there is a ([one of the fame ihape and kind about forty paces to the
we(t of the circle : the natives fay that this circle was made by the giant Fin-Mac-Cou!,
and th;it to the fing'e ftone. Bran, Vin-Mac-Cloul's hunting-dog, was ulually tied.
About half a mile to the north fide Baelliuiinich there are two ftones ereded., each of
them eight h'l t high.

ihcrf is a circle of big ftones a little to the louih oi Druim-cruey, the area of which
is about twelve paces ; there is a bmad thin ftone in the middle of this circle, fupported
by three Lifer ftones : the ancient inhabitants are repo-rted to have burnt their JVorfices
on the broad llone in lime of heathenilin.

There is a thin broad ftone tapering towards the top, cre»5led within a quarter of a
mile of tlie lia, near Machir rivor, and is nine feet high; and at fojne little dillance f. oin
the river there is a large cavern ol' ihniis.

There is an eminence of about a thi)uland paces in compafs on the fea-coaft in Druiin-
rrucy village, nnil it is fenced abiMit with a INme wall : ot old it was a fanduarv, and
whativtr number of men or cittle couM get \< iihin it were fecured from the allaults of
their enemies, the pir.ce being privileged by nnivertal confent.

The only good harbour in this ille is Lamlath, which is in the fouth-eaft end of the
ifle of that name.

'I here

Ids
he

Ihc

Ihe

WKSTERN IILANDS OF SCOTLANB. 645

There is a great fifliing of cod and whiting in and about this bay.

The whole ifle is defigned by nature more for pafturage than cultivation j the hills
are generally covered all over with heath, and produce a mixture of the erica bacciferay
cal's-tail, and juniper, all which are very agreeable to the eye in the funimer. The
highed hills of this ifland are fcen at a confiderable didance from feveral parts of the
continent and north-weft ifles, and they ferve inftead of a foreft to maintaiii the Jeer,
wiiich are about four hundred in number, and they are carefully kept by a forefler, to
give fport to the Duke of Hamilton, or any of his family that go a hunting there; for
if any of the natives happen to kill a deer without licence, which is not often grante-J,
he is liable to a fine of twenty pounds Scots for each deer : and when they grow 100
numerous, the forefter grants licences for killing a certain numberof them, on condition
they bring the (kins to himfelf.

The cattle here are horfes and cows of a middle fize, and they have alfo flieep and
goats. This ifle affords the common fea and land fowls that are to be had in tlie
weftern ifles. The black cock is not allowed to be killed here without a licence ; the
tranfgreffors are liable to a fine.

The caftle of Brodick, on the north fide of the bay of that name, (lands on a plain,
from which there is about four hundred paces of a gradual defcent towards the fea.

This caftle is built in a long form ; from fouth to north there is a wall of two (lories
high, that encompaffcs the caftle and tower : the fpace witbin the wall on the fouth fide
the caftle is capable of muftering a battalion of men.

The caftle is four ftorics high, and has a tower of great height joined to the north fide,
and that has a baftion clofe to it, to which a lower baftion is added. The fouth and weft:
fides are furrounded with a broad wet ditch, but the eaft and north fides have a defcent
which will not admit of a wet ditch. The gate looks to the eaft. This caftle is the
Duke of Hamilton's feat, when his Grace or any of the family make their fummer vifit
to this ifland. The bailiff or fteward has his refidence in this caftle, and he has a de-
putation to a£t with full power to levy the rents, give leafes of the lands, and hold
courts of iuftice.

I'here is another caftle belonging to the Duke in the north fide of the ifle, at the
head of Loch-Keniftil, in which there is a harbour for barks and boats. The ifle of
Arnm is the Duke of Hamilton's property (a very fmall part excepted) ; it lies in the
Iheriffdom of Boot, and made part of the diocefe of Argyle.

The inhabitants of this ifland are compofed of feveral tribes. The moft ancient fa.
mity among them is by the natives reckoned to be Mac-Louis, which in the ancient
language fignifics the fon of Lewis : they own themfelves to be defcended of French
parentage, their firname in Englifti is FuUerton, and their title Kirk-Michell, the place
of their refidtnce. If tradition be true, this little family is faid to be of feven hundred
years (landing. The prelent pofleffor obliged me with the fight of his old and new
charters, by which he is one of the King's coroners within this ifland, and as fuch, he
hath a halbert peculiar to his office ; he has his right of late from the family of Ha-
milton, wherein his title and perquifites of coroner are confirmed to him and his heirs.
Ho is obliged to have three men to attend him upon all public emergencies, and he is
bound by his oflico to purfue all malefaftors, and to deliver them to the fteward, or in
his abfoncc to the next judge. And if any of the inhabitants refufe to pay their rents at
the uliial term, the coroner is bound to take him perfonally, or to feize his goods. And
il it fliould happen that the coroner with his retinue of three men is not fufficient to put
his office in execution, then he fummons all the inhabitants to concur with him ; and
immediately tht y rendezvous to the place, where he fixes his coroner's ftaff. The per-
quifites

6.1 6

martin's description^ Cf TllF.

quifiter. (^ue to the coroner are a firlet or bulhel of tn\(s, and a lam1i frora -.very vllhige
in the iflc ; both which arc piiiic\ually paid liim at the oniniary teims.

The inhabitants cf this iflc are wtll proporliuiu'il, generally brown, and foiui^ of a
black complexion : they enjoy a good (late of health, and Iiave a genius ior all callings
or cmploymi nts, though they iiavc but few mochanicl' s : ihey wear the fame habit
with thoio of the nearefl ifles, and are very civil ; tli^y all fpeak the Irlfli laiii^uage, yet
the Englifh tongue prevail? on the call fide, and ordinarily the mindters prcich in i',
ai d in Iriih en the weft fide. Their ordinary afleveraiion is by Nalc, for 1 did not hear
any oath in the illand.

ul
ill

dl
il

The Churches in this Ijlc arc,

Kilbride in the fouth-eaU, Kilniore in the fuath, Cabel-ITual a chapel, Kihnichcl
in the village of that name, St. James's church at the north end.

The natives are all proteRants, they oblcrve thefeflivals of Chriftmas, Good-Viiday,
and Fafter. I had like to have forgot a valuable curinfity in this ifle, which tluy call
haul rau/uy, i. e. molingus his ftone globe: this faint was chaplain tu Mac-donald of the
ifles ; his name is cilebrated hereon the account of this globe, {o much eflcfmod by the
inhabitants. This done for its intrinfic value has been carefully tranfmitted topnilerity
for feveral ages. It is a green ftone much like a globe in figure, about the bigncfs of a
goofe egg.

1 he vntue of it is to remove ftitchcs from the fides of fick pcrfons, by laying it clofe to
the place affedfed ; and if the patient does not out-live the dillemper, th(.y fay the ftone
removes out of the bed of its own accord, and e contra. The natives ufe this flone for
fwearing decifive oaths upon it.

They afcribe another extraordinary virtue to it, and it is this : the credulous vulgar
firmly believe that if this ftone is caft among the front of an enemy, tliey will all run
away ; and that as often as the enemy rallies, if this ftone is caft among tlum, ihty ftiil
lofe courage, and retire. They fay that ISLicdonald of the iiles carried this Hone about
him, and that victory was always on his fidewhc-n he threw it among the encinv. The
cuftody of this globe is the peculiar privilege of a little family called Clan ihatfo-.is,
ahas Mac-into(h J they were ancient followers of Mac donald of the ifles. 1 his (lone
is now in the cullody of Margaret Miller, alias Mac-into(h : flie lives m Baclhiiianirh,
and preicrves the globe with abundance of care; it is wrapped up in fair lin.n cloth,
and about that there is a piece of woollon cloth, and fne keeps it llill lodged up in her
cheft, when it is not given out to exert its qualities.

IMiy,

IS a big rock, about fix leagues to the fouth-wcft of Arran; it rifes in form of a fu:-;ar-
loaf, but the topis plain, and large enough for t'rawing up a thouiaiid nun in ranks:
there is a frefti water lak(^ in the middle t)f the plain, the whole ifle is covered with
long grafs, and is iiiaccenibk, e.vcept on the fouth-woft fide, Ly a Hair cut out in the
rock ; in the middle of it there is a linall tower of thr< e ftorii s l,i,;li with the top.
There is a frefl) water fpring iftuing out of the fide of this gnar roek ; below the entry
there is a place where the fifliers take up their refidence duriiv.; their flay about this rock
in qutft of cod and ling j and there is a good anchorage lur ihcij' vtflels, very near
their tents.

This

WESTFRN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. g^y

Tills vock in the fuminer time abounds with variety of fea-fowl, that build and hatch
in it. The fiolan ,';;e('(i.' ;\nd culterncb are mod numerous here; the latter are by the
fifl'.rs calLd Jloiniic/j, wWich in the anci'Ut Irifh language fignifies Scolfnii-n.

The iflc hath a chapel on the top called Fiunnay, and an ancient pavement, or caufe-
way.

l{\d\\y is the F.arl of CaPIl's property, the tenant who farms it pays him one hun-
dred nicrks Scots yearly ; the produd oi the ifle is hogs, fo.v', down, and fi.h. The
ille Avon, above a mile in circiunlercnce, lies to the (outh of Kintyrc Mulcj it hath a
harbour ior barks on the north.

T/je I/lc Cigay.

'JliE ifle Gigay lies about a league from Lergie on the wefl fide of Kintyre ; it is
fom- miles in lengih, and oneinbrcadili, was formerly in the d ocele, and is itill part of
the flierilfdoiu of Argyle. This ifle is for the molt part arable, but rocky in other parts :
the mold is brown and clavey, inclining to red ; it is good for pafturage and cultiva-
tion. The corn growing here is oats and barley. The cattle bred here are cows,
iiorles, and fheep. Th.re is a church in this ifland called Kil-chattan, it has an altar in
theead-end, and upon it a font of Hone which is very large, ;ind h;iih a fmall hole in the
middle which L'oes quite through it. There are feveral tonib-ilones in and about this
church ; the family of the Mac-neils, the principal pofleffors of this ifle, are buried un-
der the tomb flones on the call fide the church, where there is a plat of ground fet apart
for them. Moll of all the tombs have a two handed fword engraven on them, and there
is one that has the reprelentatio:i of a man upon it.

Near the weft fule the church there is a (tone of about fixteen feet high, and four
broad, ereded upon the eminence. Alxuit fixty yards dillance from the chapel there
is a iqnare ttone eret1:ed about ten feet high ; at this the ancient inhabitants bowed, bc-
caufe it was thciv where they had the firlt view of the church.

There is a crol's four feet high at a little dillance, and a cavern of (tone on each fide
of it.

J f.is ifle affords no wocaLof any kind, but a few buflies of juniper on the little hills.
The Hones, upon wliich the Icurf coi kir grovAS, which dyes a crimmn colour, are found
here; as alio thofe that produce the crmtil, which dyes a pliilamot colour. Some of
the natives toKl me that ih.ey ui'ed to chew nettles, and hold them to their no^'rilsto
(fahch bkeding at th .• nole ; and that nettles being applied to the place, would alfo
Hop bieedin;^- at a vein, or otherwiie.

There is a well in the north end of this iile called Touhir-more, i.e. a great well, be-
caufe of its elfecls, for which it is famous amour tl>e illan.ieis ; who together with the
inhabitants ufe it as a cathcdicon for dilealls. It is covered with itone and clay, becaufe
the natives fancy that the (iream that ilows from it migUt over-flow the ille ; and it is al-
ways opened by a Dirucii, /. c. an inmate, elfe they ttunk it woula not exert its virtues.
They alcriiu' one very extraonlin<.ry ellecl to u, and it is this; that when any foreign
boats are wind bound here (wh;ch ofi^u i ippeiis) the malltv of the boat ordinarily
rivi.s the luitive i lat lets the water run, a piece of money ; and thcv fay, that immedi-
ately afterwards the wind changes in favour ot tiiofe that are tiiu.-, detained b\ i ontrary
winds. Every {haiiii;er that goes to drink of the water ot this well, is accuilomed to
1 ave on its Hone cover a oivcc of money, a ne^-dlc, pin, or one of the prettieil variegated
ituijcs tlu'v cuii and.

6 The

i
i

648

martin's description of the

The inhabitants are all protcftants, and fpeak the Irifli tongue generally, there being
but few that fpeak Englifli : they are grave and referved in their converfation ; they
are accuftomed not to bury on Friday ; they arc fair or brown in complexion, and ufc
the fame habit, diet, &c. that is made ufcof in tiie adjacent continent and ifles. There
is only one inn in this ifle.

The ifle Caray lies a quarter of a mile fouth from Gigay ; it is about a mile in com-
pafs, affords good pafturage, and abounds with coneys. There is a harbour for barks
on the north-eaft end of it. This ifland is the property of Mac- Alerter of Lcrgy, a
family of the Macdonalds.

■tf,;;

Jura/j.

THE ifle of Jurah is, by a narrow channel of about half a mile broad, feparated from
Ila. The natives fay that Jurah is fo called from Dih and Rah, two brethren, who are
believed to have been Danes : the names Dih and Rah fignifying as much as without
grace or profperity. Tradition fays, that thcfe two brethren fought and killed one an-
other in the village Knock-Cronm, where there are two (tones ereftcd of feven feet
h'gh each, and under them, they fay, there are urns with the afhes of the two brothers ;
the diAance between them is about fixty yards. The ifle is mountainous along the
middle, where there are four hills of a confiderable height ; the two hij^heft are well
known to fea-faring men, by the name of the Paps of Jurah : they are very con (pic u-
ous from all quarters of fea and land in thofc parts.

This ifle is twenty-four miles long, and in fome places fix or feven miles in breadth ;
it is the Duke of Argyle's property, and part of the flieriffdom of Argyle.

The mold is brown and greyifli on the coafl^, and black in the hills, which are co-
vered with heath, and fome grafs, that proves good pafturage for their cattle, which
are horfes, cows, (heep, and goats. There is variety of land and water-fowl here.
The hills ordinarily have about three hundred deer grazing on them, which are not to
be hunted by any, without the Reward's licence. This ifle is perhaps the wholefomell
plat of ground either in the ifles or continent of Scotland, as appears by the long life
of the natives, and their ftate of health ; to which the height of the hills is believed to
contribute in a large meafure, by the frefli breezes of wind that come from thctn to
purify the air : whereas Hay and Gigay on each fide this ifle, are mucli lower, and are
not fo wholefome by far, being liable to feveral difeafes that are not here. The inhabi-
tants obferve, that the air of this place is perfeftly pure, from the middle of March till
the end or middle of September. There is no epidemical difeafe that prevails here :
fevers are but feldom obferved by the natives, and any kind of flux is rare ; the gout and
agues are not fo much as known by them, neither arc they liable to fciatica. Convul-
fions, vapours, palfies, furfeits, lethargies, megrims, confumptions, rickets, pains of the
flomach, or coughs, are not frequent here, and none of them are at any time obferved
to become mad. I was told by feveral of the natives, that there was not one woman
died of child-bearing there thefe thirty-four years part. Blood-letting and purging are
not ufed here.

If any contraft a cough, they ufe brochan only to remove It. If after a fever one
chance to be taken ill of 1 flitch, they take a quantity of lady-wrack, and half as much
of red-fog, and boil them in water ; the patients lit upon the veflel, and receive the
fume, which by experience they find eflfeftual againft this diftemper. Fevers ;ukI the
diarrheas arc found here only when the air is foggy and warm, in winter or funimer,

a The

WESTERN ISLANDS OI' :!COI LAM).

64)

The inhabitants fur their diet make ufc of beef and multon in ihc winter and fprltig ;
asalfo of fifli, butter, ched'e, and milk. The vuli^ar take brochan frcqujntly for their
diet during the winter and fpring; and brochan and breiui ufcd for the fpace of two
days, reftorcH loft appetite.

The women ol'ill ranks eat a icfu'r quantity ol' food tlian the men : this and their
not wearing any thin;^ (trait about tlieni, is beHevcd to contribute much to the hcahh
both of the motnors and children.

'I'here arc feveral fountains of excellent water in thin iile : the mod celebrated of ihem
is that of the mountain Beinbrek in the Tarbat, called Toubir ni Lechkin, that is, the
well in a ftony defcent j it runs eafterly, and they commonly reckon it to be lighter by
one half than any other water in this iflc : for though one drink a great quantity of it
at a time, the b'jlly is not fwelled, or any ways burdened by it. Natives and llrangors
find it efficacious againit naufeoufneCs of the flomach, and the ftone. The river Niffa
receives all the water that iiruesfrom the well, and this is the reafon they give why fal-
mons hare are in goodncfs and tafte far above thole of any other river whatever. The
river of Crokbreck affords falmon alio, but they arc not efleemed fo good as thofe of
the river Niffa.

Several of the natives have lived to a great age : I was told that one of them, called
Gillour Mac-crain, lived to have kept one hundred and eighty C.hriitmaffes in his own
houfe ; he died about fifty years ago, and theije arc feveral of his acquaintance living
to this day, from whom I had this account.

Bailifl" Campbell lived to the ago of one hundred and fix yeais, he died three years
ago, he pafTed the thirty-three kill years before his death in this iile. Donald Mac
N'Mill, who lives in the village of Killearn at prefent, is arrived at the age of ninety
years.

A woman of the ifle of Scorba, near the north end of this ifle, lived fevenfcorc years,
and enjoyed the free ufo of her fenfes and underftandiug all her days : it is now two
years fince (he died.

There is a large cave, called King's Cave, on the wefl fide of the Tarbat, near the
fea ; there is a well at the entry, which renders it the more convenient for fuch as may
have occafion to lodge in it.

About two miles further from the Tarbat, there is a cave at Corpich which hath an
altar in it ; there arc many fnvall pieces of petrified fubffance hanging from the roof of
this cave.

There is a place where vcfl'els ufe to anchor on the wefl fide of this ifland called
Whitfarlan, about one hundred yards north from the porter's houfe.

About four leagues fouth from the north end of this ifli, lies the bay Da'l Yaul,
wliich is about half a mile in length ; there is a rock on the north fide of the entry,
which they fay is five futliom deep, and but three fathom within.

About a league further to the fouth on the fame coaft, lies the fmall illes of Jurah,
within which, there is a good anehoiing place ; th;; fouth entry is thebeil : iihuid Nin
Gowir mud be kept on the left hand ; it is eafily diilinguifhed by its bignefs from
the reft of the ifles. Conney ifle lies to the north of this ifluul. There are biack and
white fpotted f'erpents in this ifle ; their head being applieil to the wound, is by the na-
tives uled as '^le bell remedy for their poilbn. Within a mile of the Tarbat there is a
fionc ereded about eight feet high. Loch-Tarbat on the wefl fide runs ealterly for about
five miles, but is not a harbour tor vefl'els, or leffer boats, for it is altogether rocky.

U'hc fhore on the wefl '-.le affords coral and coraline. 'Ihcre is a fort of dulfe grow-
ing on this couli; of a wliiie colour.

VOJL. III. 4 o Between

1 1

■ '!i

I'l;

* *«i£ ' ■•4.

650 martin's di scriptiom of thk

Between the north end of Jiirah, and the itle Scurba, lies t'lc famous and dangerous
pulph, called t'ory Vrikau, abovit a jniK< in hreulth ; it yii^'lds an impetuuu. cunvnt,
not to be matched any where about the ifle of Britain. Tlic fea begins to boil iim fer-
ment With the tide of flood, and refenddcs the boihn^ of a pot ; and then increafcs
gradually, imtil it appear in many whirlpools, whicli form themfelves in fort of pyia-
nnds, anil immediately after (pout up as high as the mall of thj little veflll, andat the
fame time make a loud report. Thele v. Iiite waves run two '-^ igues with the wind be-
fore they break : the fea continues to repeat thefe various • x kions from the beginning
of the tide of flood, until it is more than hnlf flood, and then u decreafes gradually un-
til 't hath ebbed about half an hnur, anil rontinui. to boil till it is within an liour of low
water. 'Ihis boiling of tlie lea is not above a piflol-ftiot diftant from the coafl of Scarba
Ifle, where the white wiu\p meet and fpout up: they call it the Kaillach, i-e. an old
hag; and they fay that when fhe puts on her herchief, i. t-. the whiiefl waves, it is
then reckoned f,\ial to approach her. Notwithflanding this great ferment of the fea,
whicii biings Up tlv lo,\ft ihi-11 from the ground, the fmallell Hflier boat may vc . eto
crols this gulph at liie !ad hour of the tide of flood, and at the I.1II hour of the tide of
ebb.

This gulph ha'ih its name from Breknn, faid to be Ton tfl the King f D' 'imark, who
was drowned here, ca" alliore in the north of ." rah, and buried in a cave, as appears
from the tomb Aoncaiid altar thire.

The natives told me, that about tliree . fs ago an Fnglilh veflel happenea inadver-
tently to jiafs ihrou.;h tiiis gulph at the time when the lea began to boil : the whitenefs
of the wave:., and thtir Ipoutmg up, was like the breaking of the fea upon a rock ;
they fouiul themleUes attraded irrefillibly U) the white rock, as they then fuppofed it
to be : thisipiickly obliged them to conl'ult their fafely, and fo thi'y betook themfeives
to the fmal! boat with ill (peed, and thfuight it no fmall happincfs to land fafe in Jurah,
committing the vellel under all her i.iils to the uncertain condud of tide and wind.
Siie was driv n to the oppolite continent of Knapdale, where (he no fooiic: arrived,
than the tide and wind became contrary to one another, and fo the vefl'el was caR into a
creek, where flic was fate ; and then th(> mailer and crew were by the natives of this
ifle condmi^ed to her, whtie they found her as fafe as they left her, though all her fails
Were ilill hoilled.

The natives gave me an account, that fome years ago a veflel had brought -me rats
hither, which inereiled lo much, that they became very uuiafy to the people, L: Jton a
fudden they all va!iilhcd ; and lunv there is noi one o[ them m the ifle.

There is a church here tailed Killearn, the inhabitants are all protcllants, ar 4 obfervc
file felUvals of Clhridm.i?, Kaller, aiul i\!ieiiaehnas ; they do not op^n a grave on Fri-
day, and bury none on that ''ay, except the grave lias been opcm-d before.

'1 he iiatives here are verv wr.l) proportioned, being generally black of complexion,
and free from bndily Imperii ftions. 'I'hey ipeakthe Irilh language, and wear theplad,
bonii t, &c. as other iilanders.

'1 ho ifle of 11a lits to tbe well of Jurah, from which it is feparated by a narrow chan-
nel ; it is twenty-fuur miles in length from lnuth tu north, and eighteen from eaU to
W( 11 ; tht re are (ome l.ttle moiint;i;ns about the midilteon the eail fide. 'Ihe ix)all is
for the molt pan heathy and uneven, and by confequence not proper for tillage ; the
north end is alio full of heaths and hills. Thf louih-well and ucii ir. prettv wi !i cuhi-
vati.;. and there is fix miles between Kilrow oi> the wofl, and Fort Klcok in the call,
which is .<r:.'lf', and well inhabited, i'here is about one thouland little hills on this
road, aud all abound with lime-(lone ; among whicii there is lately difcovered a lead

4 mine

mi' ''

WESl'iRN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. Of I '

nunc in throe dift'erent places, but it has not turned to any account as yet. The corn
growing here is barley and oats.

'j'htTc is only one harbour in this ifle, called Loch-Dale ; it lies near the north end,
and is of a preat lonp,th and breadth ; but the depth being in tiie iiiiddK', few veflcls
conic within half a league of the land-fide.

'I'hero aie I'everal rivers in this ifle atlbrdint^ fahnon. 'J'he frefli-water likes are well
ftockcd uiih trouts, eels, and fome with falnuns ; as I.dch-Giiirm, wliieh is four miles
in circuuiference, and hath feveral forts built on an iiliml that lies in it,

Loch-Finlagan, about three miles in cireuuiurruco, alFords falniou, trouis, and e:'1s :
this lake lies in the center of the ifle. '1 he ille Finla;i;an, from which this lake hath its
name, is in it. It is famous fur being once the court in which the great J\].;c-I)onald,
king of the iiles, had his relidence ; his houfis, chapel, <^c. are now ruii.ous. His
guards <k corps, called l.ucht-taeh, kept guard on the lake-fide neareft to the ifle; the
walls of their houfes are Hill to be feen there.

'Ihe hij;h court of juilicature, confining of fourteen, fat always here; and th.cre was
an appeal to them from all the courts in the iflcs: the eleventh fliare of the fum in
di'biit.' was due to the principal iudge. There was a big Hone of feven feet fquare,
in which there was a deep impreilion made to receive the feet of Mac-Donald ; lor he
was crowned King of the Illes flanJing in this Uone, and fwore th.it he would con-
tinue his valfalsin the poillllion of their lands, and do exaft juflice to all his fubjefts;
and then his father's fword was put into his hand. The bifhop of Argyle and feven
prieffs anointed him King, in prefence of all the heads of the tribes in the ifles and
continent, and were iiis valTals : at which time the orator rchearfed a catalogue of his
anc'flors, .'^c.

There are fevr^ral forts built in the ifles that are in frefli-water lakes, as in Ilan Loch-
guirn, and Ilan Viceain : there is a fort called Dunnivag, in the fouih-weil fide of the
ill', and there are feveral caves in diirerent places of it. The largeft that I faw v as in
the north end, and is called Vah Vearnat; ; it will contain two hundred men 'o Hand
or (it in it. There is a kiln for drying corn made on the call fide of it; and on the
other fide there is a wall built dole to the tide of the cave, which was ufed for a bed-
chamber : it had a fire on the fl(H>r, and fome chairs about it, and the bed ftood clofe
to the wall. Tlure is a Hone wilhout the cave-dour, about which the common people
make a tour funways.

A mile on the louth w'^fl: fide of the cave is the celebrated well, called Toubir in
Knahar, which in the antiont language; is as nuich as to lay, the well that Tallied +Vom
one place to another : for it is a received tradition atnong the vulgar inhabitants of this
ille, and the o^ipotite iile of Clollonfay, that tins well was firfl in C.ollonfay, until an im-
prudent woman happened to walli her hands in it, and that innnediately after, rlie well
being thus abuled, came in an inflant to Ila, where It i"^ like io continue, and is ever fince
clleenied a c. tholicon for difeafes by the natives and adjacent iflanders ; aiul liie great
refort to it is coniuionlv every ruarlrr-day.

It is common with lick people to make a vow to come ro the well, and, after drink-
ing, they make a tour funways round it, and then Io;;ve ;n! oiFcring of fome fmall to-
ken, fueh as a ]iin, needle, farthing, or the like, on the lioiu^ cover which is above the
well. But if the patient is not like to recover, tliey fend a proxy to the well, who
ucls as above-mentioned, and carries home fome of ih.-: water to be drank by the (ick
perfon.

'1 liere is a little chap*. 1 befidc this well, to v ' '.:h fuch as had found the benefit of the
water, came back and returned thanks to Goil .or their recovery.

4. o ? There

; :^!

l^!!

1/!1

6k z

martin's description op THB

There arc fevnal rivi nn each fule ihs iflo, that .iOord falmon : I w.ia toki l)\ •" •«
natives, that the- Rrion • ila, a t.uMoiis judge, is, according to liis own ilrfir", • iir; \i
ftan ling on the brink of the river I.aggan; having in his riglit hand a ("pear, luch as
they life to dart at llic l.dnion.

1 here arc fonie iflcs on tlic coafl of this ifland, as Ilhind Tcxa, on the fouth-wc'?,
abuijf a mile in cirnunferoncc ; and liland Ouirl'a, a mile iikuwife in circumfcri.nce, with
the li...ill iflc called Nave.

idJ:;i

Tl'c Names of the Chui 'Jm in tl'is Jjk arc as foUo-io :

Kil-Chollim Kill, St. Columbus his church, near Port Kfcock, "il-Chovan in the
Rins, on tho weft lidc the ifle ; Kil-C'hiaran In Rins, on the wilt (ide N -is in
the Rins, St. Columbus his chiuxh in Laggan, a chapel in Kland N.ive, . .„ n

Aim, north-vvrjl ol Kidrow. 'I'licrc is a crois ftandin:; near '''. Colunil>u»'»,
Efcock fide, which is ton feet high. There nro two itoncs ki up at th • .t

Loch-Finlagan, and they are fix feet high ; all the inhahit;in»s are prolcfl. o

among tiicm obfcrvc the fcftivals of Cliriftmas and Good-lViilay. 'Ihey aic w
portioned, and indiflcrently healthful ; the air here is not near fo good as that i . .uu .,
ircm which it is but a fliort mile diltant ; but 11a is lower and more marfhy, which
mnkcs it liabe to feveral difcafes that do not trouble thole of Jura. They generally
fpeak the Irifli tongue, all thole of the bell rank fpjak Englilh ; they ulc the fame
habit and dif^ with thole of Jura. Thisilleis annexed to the crown of Scotland ; Sir
Hugh Campbell of Caddtl is the king's fteward there, a:id has one hall of tiie illand.
This illo is reckoned the furiheil; we'l of all the illes in liritain : there is a village on
the well coaft of it called Cul, /. c. the back part ; and the natives fny that it was fo
called, becaufe th ■ ancientj thought it the back of the world, as Ik ing the remotelt
pa't on that fide of it. The natives of Ila, Collonfay, and Jura fay, that there h
an ifland lying to the fouth-wed of thefe ifles, about the dillancc of a day's failing, for
which they have only a bare tradition. Mr. Maek Swcn, prefent miniller in the ilL>
Jura, gave me the followii\g account of it, which hr^ had from tho mafler of an Eng-
^ilh vcilM that happened to anchor at that little iile, and came afterwards to Jura;
which is thus :

As I was failing fomo thirty leagues to the fouth weft of Ila, I was bccalnieJ near
a little ifie, where I dropt anchor, and went afhorc. I found it covered all over
with long grafs ; there were abundance of feals lying on the rocks, and on the fliorc ;
there is likewife a multitude of fca-fowls in it : tliere is a river in the middle, and on
each fide of it I found great heaps of fifti-bones of many fc"-ts ; there are many planks
and boards cad up upon the coall of the ifle, and it being all plain, and almoll level
with the fca, I caufed my men (being then idle) to creft a heap of the wood about
two (lories high ; and that with a defign to make the ifland more confpicuous to fea-
farin ^ men. This ifle is f(.ur Englifh miles in length and one in breadth : I was about
thirteen hours failing between this ifle and Jura. Mr. John Mac-Swen above-men-
tioned, having gone to the ille of Collonfay, fomc few days after, was told by the in-
habitants, that from an eminence near the monaftery, in a fair day, they faw as it were
the tep ot a little mountain in the fouth-wcll fea, and that they doubted not but it was
Jaiui, though they never obfcvved it before. Mr. Mac-Swen was confirmed in this
opiniim by th;' account above mentioned : but when the fun)iner was over, they never
faw this little !iill, as they called it, any more. 'I'he reafon of which is fuppofed to be
this, that tile high winds, in all probability, had c:lt down the pile Qi wood, that forty
1 o , fcamen

• 11

Wi'oTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

653

fcamen had crc^rd the preceding year in that ifland ; which, by rcafon of the defcrip-
tion abovv recital, wo may aptly enough call the C'un Iflaiid.

The Jjh of CoUoii/ay,

ABOrT two leagues to the north of I la, lies the ifle Oranfay ; it is feparated from
ColloMfay only at the tide of flood : this pcriinfula h four miles in circumference, being
for the mod part a plain, arablo, dry, Tandy foil, and is fruitful in corn and grafs ; it is
lik'wife adorned with a church, «:hapfl, and monaftery; they were built by the fa-
mous St. Columbus, to whom tho thurcli is di'ilicatcd. There is an altar in this
church, and there has been a modern crucifix on it, in which feveral precious lbnc»-
were fixed ; the mn'^ valuble oi thefe is now in the cullody of Mac Duflie, in black
Raimulcd village, .. , , ••= ufed as a c "holicon fur difeafes : there are fcveral burying-
placts here, an." t^-: 'vsric^ -Hones for t molt part have a two-handed fword engraven
on them. On tj 1 ■■:''. lAc of the ciiurch within, lie the tombs of Mac-Duffie, and of
the cadets of his family ; thin' is a Ihip under fail, and a two-handed fword en^raver\
on the principal tnmb-doiie, aiul this i.ifcription, Hic jacit Makolumbiis Mac-Duffic de
(.lUonfoy : his coat of arms aiui colour-llall is fixed in a (lone, through which a hole is
mnde to hold it. 'llicTe isacrols at the call and weft fides of this church, which arc now
broken ; their hci;;ht was about twelve feet each : there is a large crofs on the weft fide
of" the church, of an entire ftone, very hard ; there is a pcdellal of three Heps, by which
they afcend to it, ir i>s fixteen feet high, and a foot ami half broad ; there is a large
crucifix on the well fide of this croft;, it has an infcription underneath, but not legible,
being almofl worn cH' by the injury of time ; the other fiJe has a tree* engraven on it.

About a quarter of a mile om the louth fide of the church there is a cairne, in which
tlicre i-i a Hone crofs fixed, called Mac-Duffie's crofs ; for when any of the heads of this
family were to be interred, iheir corpfes were laid on this crofs for fomc moments, in
their way toward the church.

On the north-fide of the church tlicre is a fquare ftone-wall, about two ftory high ;
the area of it is about fourfcoro paces, and it is joined to the church-wall ; within this
fijuare there is a lefler fquare of one ftory high, and about fixty paces wide, three fides
of it are built of fmall pillars, confiding of two thin ftones each, and each pillar vaulted
above with two thin ftones tapering upwards. There are infcriptions on two of the
' pillars, but few of the letters are perfect. There are feveral houfcs without the fquare,
which the monks lived in. There is a garden at twenty yards diftance on the north
fide the houles.

The natives of Collonfay arc accuftomed, after their arrival in Oronfay ifle, to make
a tour funwayrj abcnit the church, before they enter upon any kind of bufincfs. My
landlord having one of his family fick of a fever, aiked my book, as a fingular fiwour,
tor a few moments. I w.is not a little furprifed at the honeft man's rcquell, he being
illiterate : and when he told me the rcafon of it, I was no lefs amazed, for it was to
fan the patient's face with the leaves of the book : and this he did at night. He fought
the book next morning, and again in the evening, and then thanked me for fo great a
favour : and told me, the fick pcrfon was much better by it ; and th"s I underftood
that they had an ancient cuftom of I'aiming the face of the fick with the leaves of the
Bible.

The ifle of Collonfay is four miles in length from eaft to weft, and above a mile in
bnadth. The mould is brown and fandy on the coaft, and affords but a very finall
product, though they plough their ground three times j the middle is rocky and heathy,

which

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IMAGE EVALUATION
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Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

9)'-

654 ^ martin's description of the

which in mod places is prettily mingled with thick cver-grccns of crica-baccifcra, ju-
niper, and cat's-tail.

The cattle bred here are cows, horfes, and flieep all of a low fize. The inhabitants
are generally well proportioned, and of a black complexion ; they i'pcak only the Irilh
tongue, and ufe the habit, diet, &c. that is uCed in the Wellern Iflos ; they are all prc-
teftants, and obferve the feftivals of Chriftmas, Eadcr, and Good-Friday ; but the wo-
men only obferve the feftival of the Nativity of the IJlelTed Virgin. Kilouran is the
principal church in thiside, and the village in which this church is, hath its nonie from
it. There are two ruinous chapels in the fouih fule of this iflc. ']"hcre were two (tone
cheds found lately in Kilouran fands, which were conipofed of five Hones each, and had
human bones in them. There are foine frefli-water lakes abounding with trouts in this
ifle. There are likewife feveral forts here, one of which is called Duncoll : it is near
the middle of the ifle, it hath large ftones in it, and the wall is feven feet broad.

The other fort is called Dun-Kvan : the natives have a tradition among them, of a
ver}' little generation of people, that lived once here, called LufbirJan, the fame with
pigmies. This ifle is the Duke of Argyle's property.

Mull.

THE ifle of Mull lies on the weft coaft, oppofite to Lochaber, Swoonard, and
Moydart. It is divided from thefe by a narrow channel, not exceeding half ir league in
breadth ; the ifle is twenty-four miles long from fouth to north, and as many in breadth
from eaft to weft. A fouth-eaft moon caufes high tide here. This ifle is in the flicrifF-
dom of Argyle ; the air here is temperately cold and moid ; the frefli breezes that blow
from the mountains do in fome meafurc qualify it : the natives are accuflomed to take
a large dofe of aquavita as a corrctlive, when tlie feafon is very moid, and then they
are very careful to chew a piece of charmcl root, linding it to be aromatic, efpecially
when they intend to have a drinking-bout ; for tlu y f.iy this in fonie uicaiure prevents
drunkennefs.

The mould is generally black and brown, both In the hills and valleys, and in fome
parts a clay of diilerent colours. The heaths nilbrd abundance (;f turf and p i-.ts,
which ferve the natives for good fuel. There is a great ridge of montains about the
middle of the ifle, one of them very high, and therefore call.d Ban Vore, i. c. a great
mountain. It is to be ken from all the Weftern llles, and ;i confiJerable part of ihe
continent. Both mountains and valleys ailbrd gooJ padurage fur all foils of catrle, as
fiicep, goat?, and deer, which herd amopg tlie hi'ls and bullie?-. The; horfes are I)iit of
a low lize, yet very fprightiy ; their black cattle arc likewlle low in lizj, but their iL.'h
is very delicious and fine. There is abundance (if wild fowl in the hills and valley:^ ;
and among them the black cock, heath-hen, ptarmugan, and very line Iiawks : th>; iVa-
coall allords all fiich fowl as arc to be iiad in the Weflern liles. 'I'lio corn throwing
here is only barley and oats. Tliero is great viiriety ol plai.;.s in the hills and vallcvs,
but there is no wood here, except a L\v coppices on the coai'l. There are fome bays,
and places for anchorage about the ifle. 1 he b;iv of D aart on the cafl fule, and to t';e
north of the callle of that name, is reckoned a laie anc'ioring-place, and frequenteil liy
ftrangers. Lochbuy, on the oppofite well fide, is but an indifilrent harbour, yet vcl-
fels go into it for herrings.

The coaft on the weft iihounds with rocks for two leagues weft and foiuh-wcO. The
Bloody Bay is over againft the north end of ifland Columki', and only ht for vellels of
about an hundred tons.

Some

mil

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 6^^

Some few miles further to the north e;;ft is Loch-Levin, the entry h'es to the wefl-
ward, and goes twelve miles eaflerJy ; there are herrings to be had in it fometiniep,
and it abounds with oyflers, cockles, mufcles, clams, &c.

Loch lay lies on the fouth fide of Loch-Levin ; it is proper only for fmall veflels ;
herrings are to bo had in it fometimes, and it abounds with variety of fliell fifh : the
fmall ifles, called the While Ifle, and Ifle of Kids, are within this bay. 'J o the north of
Loch-Levin lies Loch Scaffbrd ; it enters fouth weft, and runs north-eaft ; within it lie
the ifles Eorfa and Inchkenneth, both which are reputed very fruitful in cattle and
corn.

There is a little chapel in this ifle, in which many of the inhabitants of all ranks are
buried. Upon the north fide of Loch-Scaffbrd lies the ifle of Veviy ; it is three
miles in circumference, and encompaffed with rocks and {helves, but fruitful in corn,
grafs, &c.

To the weft of Ulva lies the ifle Gomctra, a mile in circumference, and fruitful in
proportion to thv.' other ifles.

About tour miles further lie the fmall ifles, called Kairnburg More and Kernbug-
lk\vT ; thoy arc naturally very ftrong, faced all round with a rock, having a narrow en-
try, and a violent current of a tide on each fide, fo that they are almoft impregnable.
A very few men are able to dcf^^nd thefe two forts againft a thoufand. There is a fmall
garrilbn of the llanciinf; forces in them at prefent.

To the fouth of thele forts He the fmall ifles of Fladday, Lungay, Back, and the Call
of the Back : cod and ling are to be had plentifully about all thefe iflands.

Near to the north-eaft end of Mull lies the ifle Calve ; it is above two miles in com-
pafs, has a coppice, and affords good pafturage for all kind of cattle. Between this ifle
and the ifle of Mull there is a capacious and excellent bay, calied "Fonbir Mory, i.e. the
Virgin Mary's well j becaufe the water of a well of that name, which is faid to be me-
dicinal, runs into the 1 ay.

One of the fliips of the Spanifli armada, called the Florida, perifhed in this bay,
having been blown up by one Smallet of Dunbarton, in the year 1588. There was a
great fum of gold and money on board the ftiip, which difpofed the Karl of Argyle and
lome Engliflimen to attempt the recovery of it ; but how far the latter fucceded in this
enterprizc is not gentrally well known ; only that fome pieces of gold and money, and a
golden chain was taken out of her. I have feen fome fine brafs cannon, fome pieces of
eight, teeth, beads, and pins that had been taken out of that (hip. Several of the inhabitant^
ofMull toki me hat they had cor verfed with their relations that were living at the harbour
when this ftiip was blown up : and they gave an account of an admirable providence that
appeared in the prefervation of one Dr. Beaton, (the famous phyfician of Mull,) who was
on board the fliip when file blew up, and was then fitting on the upper deck, which was
blown up entire, and thrown a good way off; yet tiie Doftor was laved, and Uved fe-
veral years after.

The black and white Indian nuts are found on the weft fide of this ifle ; the natives
pulverize the black kernel, or the black nut, and drink it in boiled milk for curing the
diarrhea.

Thi re are fcveral rivers in the ifle that afford falmon, and fome rivers abound with
the black mulcle that breeds pearl. Th'Te are dlfo fome frelh-water lakes that have
trouts and eels. The whole ill .• is very well watere^; with many fprinj^s and fountains.
They told me of a Ipring in the fouth fide of the mountain Bein Yore, that has a yellow
coloured (lone at the bottopi, which doth not burn or become hot, though it fliould
be kept in tlic lue tor a whole day together.

The

'•'■% 1

,';('

' i

4 I

656

martin's DESCRIITION OF TliB

1 he amphibia in this ifle are feals, otters, vipers, of the fame kind as thofe defcribed in
the ille of Skie, and the natives ufe the fame cures for the biting of vipers. Foxes abound
in tliis ifle, and do much hurt among the lambs and kids.

There are three caftles in the ifle : to wit, the caftle of l>uart, fituated on the eaft, built
upon a rock, the eaft fide is furrounded by the fea. This was the feat of Sir John Mac
Lean, head of the ancient family of the Mac-Leans ; and is now, together with the
eftate, which was the major part of the ifland, become the Duke of Argyle's property,
by the forfeiture of Sir John.

Some miles further on the weft coad ftands the cafllc of Moy, at the head of Loch-
buy, and is the feat of Mac- Lean of Lochbuy.

There is an oUi caftle at Aros in the middle of the ifland, now in ruins. There are
forae old forts here called Dunns, fuppofed to have been built by the Danes. There
are two parifh-churches in the Jfle, viz. Killinchcn-Bcnorth, Loch-Levin, and a little
chapel, called Xilwichk-Ewin, at the lake above Loch-Lay ; each parifli hath a minifter.
The inhabitants are all Proteftants except two or three, who are Roman Catholics ;
•they obferve the feftivals of Chriftmas, Eafter, Good-Friday, and St. Michael's. They
fpeak the Irifti language generally, but thofe of the beft rank fpeak Englifli } they wear
tlie fame habit as the reft of the iflanders.

Jona.

THIS ifle in the Irifli language is called /. Co/mkil, i. e. the ifthmus of Columbus
the clergyman. Colum was his proper name, and the addition of Kil, which fignific.<»
a church; was added by the iflanders by way of excellence j for there were few churches
then in the remote and lelTor ifles.

The natives have a tradition among them, that one of the clergymen who accom-
■panied Columbus in his voyage thither, having at a good diftance efpied the ifle, and
cried joyfully to Columbus in the Irifli language, C/ji mi, i. c. I fee her ; meaning there-
by the country of which they had been in queft : that Columbus then anfwered, " It
ihall be from henceforth called V."

The ifle is two miles long from fouth to nc'h, nnd one in breadth from eaft to weft.
The eaft fide is all arable and plain, fruitfu; orn and grafs j the weft fide is high
and rocky.

This ifle was anciently a feminary of learning, famous for the fevere difcipline and
fandity of Columbus. He built two churches, and two monafteries in it, one for men,
the other for women ; which were endowed by the kings of Scotland and of the ifles ;
fo that the revenues of the church then amounted to four thoufand marks per ann,
Jona was the bifliop of the ifles' cathedral, after the Scots loft the Ifle of Man, in which
King Cratilinth ereded a church to the honour of our Saviour, called Fanum Sodorcnfe.
Hence it was that bifliop of the ifles was ftyled Epifcopus Sodoraijis. The vicar of Jona
was parfon of Soroby in Tyre-iy and dean of the ifles. St. Mary's church here is built
in form of a crols, the choir twenty yards long, the cupola twenty-one feet fquare, the
body of the church of equal length with the choir, and the two crofs ifles half that
length. There are two chapels on each fide of the choir, the entry to them opens with
large pillars neatly carved in Itq^o relievo ; the Itecple is pretty large, the doors, win-
dows, he. are curioufly carved ; the altar is large, and of as fine marble as any I ever
faw. There are feveral abbots buried within the church ; Mac-Ilikenich his ftatue is
done in black marble, as big as the life, in \\\\\ cpifcopal habit, with a mitre, crofier,
ring, and ftoncs along the breaft, &c. The reft of the abbots are done after the fame
manner \ the infcription of one tomb is as follows :

llic

WESTERN ISLANDS OP SCOTLAND. S^y

Hicjacct Joannes Muck-Fifigctie, abbas de Oui, qui obiit anno Domini milcftmo quingen-
tcfimo.

BiHiop Knox, and fevcral perfons of diftindlion, as Mac-Leod of Harrifs, have alfo
been buried here.

Thorc is the ruins of a cloiiter behind the church, as alfo of a library, and under it
a large room ; the natives fay it was a place for public dilputalions.

There is a heap of (tones without the churcii, under wliich Mackcan of Ardminur-
chin li(S buritd. 'Ihere is an empty piece of ground between the church and the gar-
dens, in which murderers, and children that died before baptifm, were burieJ. Near
to the weft end of tlie cluitch in a little cell lies Columbus' tomb, but without in-
fcription ; this gave me occafion to cire the diftich, aflerting that Columbus was buried
in Ireland ; at which the natives of Jona feemed very much difpleafod, and affirmed
that the Irifli who faid fo were impudent liars ; that Columbus was once buried in this
place, and that none ever came from Ireland fince to carry away his corpfe, which they
had attempted, would have proved equally vain and prefumptuous.

Near St. Columbus' tomb is St. Martin's crofs, an entire Hone of eight feet high ;
it is a very hard and red (lone, with a mixture of grey in it. On the weft fide of the
crofs is engraven a large crucifix, and on the eaft a tree; it ftands on a pedeftal of the
fame kind of (lone. At a little further diftance is Dun Ni Manich, i. e. Monk's fort,
built of ftone and lime, in form of a baftion, pretty high. From this eminence the
monks had a view of all the families in the ifle, and at the fame time enjoyed the free
air. A little further to the weft lie the black ftones, which are fo called, not from their
colour, for that is grey, but from the efFeds that tradition fay enfued upon perjury, if
any one became guilty of it after fwearing on thefe ftones in the ufual manner; for an
oath made on them was dccifive in all controverfies.

Mac-Donald, king of the ifles, delivered the rights of their lands to his valTals in the
ifles and continent, with uplifted hands and bended knees, on the black ftones ; and in
this pofture, before many witneffes, he folemnly fwore that he would never recall thofe
rights which he then granted : and this was inftead of his great feal. Hence it is that
when one was certain of what he afllrmed, he faid pofitively, I have freedom to fwear
this matter upon the black ftones.

On the fouth fide the gate, without the church, is the taylors* houfe, for they only
wrought in it. 'Ihe natives fay, that in the time of the plague the outer gate was quite
(hut up, and that all provifions were thrown in through a hole in the gate for that
purpofe.

At fome diftance fouth from St. Mary's is St. Quran's church, commonly called
Rcliqui Ouran ; the faint of that name is buried within it.

The laird ot Mac-Kinnon has a tomb within this church, which is the ftatelieft tomb
in the ide. On the wall above the tomb there is a crucifix engraven, having the arms
of the family underneath, viz. a boar's heul, with a couple of ftieep's bones in its jaws.
The tomb-ftone has a ftatue as big as the life, all in armour, and upon it a (hip under
fail, a lion at the head, and another at the feet. The infcription on the tomb is thus:
Hic eft Abbas Lacblani^ Mack-Fingone^ et ejus filius Abbatis de L uEtatis in Dno M" cccc
ann.

There are other perfons of diftin£lion in the church, all done in armour.

On the Ibuth fide of the church, mentioned above, is the buriaUplace in which the
kings and chiefs of tribes are buried, and over them a Ihrine; there was an infcription,
giving an account of each particular tomb, but time has worn them olF. The widdle-

vojL. III. 4 P molt

•I

6s3

martin's dsscription or t-he'

P^^

- «-•

'J^'l

moft had written on it, " The totnbs of the Kings of Scotland j" of which forty-eight
lie there.

Upon that on the right hand was written, ♦' The tombs of the Kings of Ireland j'*
of which four were buried hare.

And upon thnt on the loft hand was written, " The Kings of Norway ;" of which
eight were buried here.

On the right liand within the entry to the church-yard there is a tomb-ftone now
overgrown with earth, and upon it th-.-i"e is written. Hit: jacct Joannes Turnbiill, quondam
epijhpus Cantcrburioifts. Tiiis 1 deliver upon the authority of Mr. Jo, Mac-Swen, mi-
nifter of Jura, who fays he read it.

Next to the kings is the tninb-ftonc nf Mac-Donald of Ila ; ths arms, a fliip with
hoiftcd fails, a flandard, four lions, and a tree : the infcription, Hk jacct corpus Angiifit
Mack-Donuill ds lie.

In the weft end is the tombs of Gilbrid and Paul Sporran, ancient tribes of the Mac-
Donalds.

The families of Mac-Lean of Duart, Lochbuy, and Coll, lie next all in armour, as
big as the life.

Mac-Alifter, a tribe of the Mac-Donalds, Mac- Query of Ulvey, are both done as
above.

There is a heap of ftones on which they ufed to lay the corps while they dug the
grave. There is a ftone likewifc erected here, concerning which the credulous natives
fay, that whofoever reaches out his arm along the ftone three times, in the name of the
Father, Son, and Holy Ghoft, will never err'in fteering the helm of a veflel.

One tomb hath a clergyman, with this infcription upon it ; SanBa, 'tsfc.

About a quarter of a mile further fouth is the church Ronad, in which feveral prio-
reffes are buried : one of the infcriptions is, Hk jacet Dna. Anna Terkti,Jilia quondam
priorejfa de Jona, qua obiit anno M" Chrijii^ animam Abrahamo commendamus.

Another infcription is, Behag N'tjn Sorlevk Jl vril prwrijfa^ i.e. Bathia daughter to
Somerled, fon of Gilbert, priorefs.

Without the nunnery there is fuch another fquare as that befide the monaftery for
men. The two pavements, which are of a hard red ftone, are yet entire ; in the middle
of the longeft pavement there is a large crofs, like to that mentioned above, and is called
Mac-Lean's Crofs. There are nine places on the eaft fide the ifle, called Ports for
landing.

The dock which was dug out of port Churich is on the fhore, to preferve Columbus'
boat called Curich, wliich was made of ribs of wood, and the outfide covered with hides;
the boat was long, and fharp-pointed at both ends: Columbus is faid to have tranfported
eighteen clergymen in his boat to Jona.

There are many pretty variegated ftones in the ftiore below the dock ; they ripen to
i green colour, and are then proper for carving. The natives fay thefe ftones are for-
tunate, but only for fome particular thing, which the pcrlon thinks fit to name, in ex-
clufion of every thing clfe.

There was a tribe here called Clan vie n'ojicr, from Ojiiarii ; for they are faid to
have been porters. The tradition of thefe is, that before Columbus died, thirty of this
family Hved then in Jona, and that upon fome provocation Columbus entailed a curfu
upon them ; which was, that they might all perifti to tlie number of five, and that they
might never exceed that number, to which they were accordingly reduced : and ever
lince, when any woman of the family was in labour, both ftie and the other four were
. « , afraid

%'■

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 659

afraid of death ; for if the child that was to be then born did not die, thoy fay one of
the five was furc to die ; and this they affirm to have been verified on every fuch occa-
fion fucceflively to this day. I found the only one of this tribe living in the ifle, and
both he and the natives of this and of all the weftern ifles unanimoufly declare that this
obfervation never failed j and all this little family is now exind, except this one poor
man.

The life of Columbus, written in the Irifli charafter, is in the cuftody of John Mac-
Neil in the ifle of Barray ; another copy of it is kept by Mac-Donald of Bcmbccula.

The inhabitants have a tradition, that Columbus futitrcd no women to Ibiy in the ifle
except the nuns ; and that all the tradcfmen who wrought in it were obligal to keep
their wives and daughters in the oppofite little ifle, called on that account Womcn's-ifie. .
They fay likewife, that it was to keep women out of the ifle that he would not fuflcr
cows, ftieep, or goats to be brought to it.

Boda, in his Ecclefiaftical Hiftory, lib. iii. cap. 4. gives an account of him. In the
year of our Lord ^6$, (at the time that Juftin the younger fucceeded JiiRini in in the
government of the Roman empire) the famous Columba, a prcltyter and abbot, but in
habit and life a monk, came from Ireland to Britain to preach the word of God to the
northern provinces of thePidts ; that is, to thofe wlio by high and rugged mountains
are feparated from the fouthern provinces. For the fouthern Pids, wlio Jiavc their ha-
bitation on this fide the fame hills, had, as they aflirm thenill Ives, renounced idolatry,
and received the faith a long time before, by the preaching of Ninian the bifliop, a mofl
reverend and holy man, of the country of the Britons, who was regularly educated at
Rome in the myfteries of truth.

In the ninth year of Meilochen, fon to Pridius King of Pids, a mofl: powerful king,
Columbus, by his preaching and example, converted that nation to the faith of Chrifl.
Upon this account they gave him the illo above-mentioned Cwhich he calls Hii, book iii.
cap. 3.) to ereft a monaltery in; wliich his fucceflTors polfofs to this day, and where he
himfelf was buried, in the feventy-feventh year of his age, and the thirty-fecond after his
going to Britain to preach the gofpel. He built a m.'ole monnftery in Ireland before
his coming to Britain ; from both which monafteries he and his difciples founded fe-
veral other monallcrics in Britain and Ireland ; among all which, the monaltery of the
ifland in which his body is interred, has the pre-eminence. The ifle has a reftor, who
is always a prefliyter-abbot, to whofe jurifdidtion the whole province, and the bifliops
themfelves ought to be fubjed, though the thing be unufual, according to the example '
of that firft dodor, who was not a bifliop, but a prcfbyter and monk ; and of whufe
hfe and dodrine fome things are faid to be wrote by his difciples. But whatever he
was, this is certain, that he left fucceflbrs eminent for their great chaltity, divine love,
and regular inltitution.

This monaftcry furniflied bifliops to feveral diocefes of England and Scotland ; and
amongil others, Aidanus, who was fcnt from thence, and was bifliop of Lindisfairn,
now Holy-lfland.

T/jc Ifle of TirC'iy, isfo called from Tire a Couniry and ly an Ijlhinus ; the Rocks in the
narrciu Channel fee m to favour the Etymology.

imS ifle lies about eight leagues to the wofl: of Jona, or I Colm-Kil. The land is
low and moorifli, but there are two little hills on the foulh-wefl: fide ; the mould is ge-
nerally brown, and for the mofl: part fandy. The wefl:ern fide is rocky for about three
leagues : the ifle aft'ords no convenient liarbour for fliips, but has been always valued

4 P 2 for

€6o

martin's description op the

for its extraordinary fruitfulners in corn, yet being tilled every year, it is become l-fs
fruiifiil than formerly. There is a plain piece of ground about fix miles in compafs on
the ea(l coail, called the Rive ; the grafs is feldom fuffcrcd to grow the length of half
an inch, being only kept as a common, yet is believed to excel any parcel of land of its
extent in the iflcs or oppofite continent : there arc fmall cl.anriels in it, through which
the tide of flood comes in, and it fometimes overflows the whole.

Tiie iflc is four miles in length from the fouth-eaft to the north-weft ; the natives for
the mofl part live on barley-bread, butter, milk, cheefe, fifli, and I'ome eat the roots
of lilvor-weed ; there arc but few that eat any flelh, and the fervants ufe water-gruel
often with tlieir bread. In plentiful years the natives drink ale generally. '1 here are
three ale-houfes in the ifle : the brewers preferve their ale in large earthen veffels, and
fay they arc much better for this purpofe than thofe of wood ; fome of them contain
twelve Englifli gallons. Their meafure for drink is a third part larger than any I could
obferve in any other part of Scotland. The ale that I had in the inn being too weak,
1 told my hoft of it, who promifed to make it better ; for this end he took a hettic-
Itone, and having made it red-hot in the fire, he quench'd it in the ale. The company
and I were fatisfied that the drink was a little mbre briflc, and I told him that if he could
add fome more life to our ale, he would extremely oblige the comp;my. This he
frankly undertook ; and to cffed it toafted a barley-cake, and having broke it in pieces,
he put it into the difli with the ale ; and this experiment we found as eff"eftual as the
firft. I enquired of him if he had any more art to revive our ale, and then he would
, make it pretty good ; heanfwered, that he knew of nothing elfe but a malt, cake, which
he had not then ready ; and fo we were obliged to content ourfelves with what pains
had been already ufed to revive our drink. The natives preferve their yeall by an
oaken wyth, which they twill and put into it ; and for future ufe, keep it in barley-
ftraw. The cows and horfes are «>f a very low fiz.' in this ifle, being in the winter and
fpring time often reduced to eat fea-ware. The cows give plenty of milk ; when they
have enough of frefti feaware to feed on, it fattens them : the horfes pace naturally, and
are very fprightly, though little. The ground abounds with flint- (lone; the natives
tell me they find pieces of fulphur in feveral places. The wefl winds drive the ordinary
Indian nuts to the fliore of this ifle, and the iiaiives ufe them as above, for removing
the diarrhea ; and the water of the well called Tonbir in Donich, is by the natives drunk
as a catholicon for difeafes.

Some years ago about one hundred and fixty little whales, the biggeft not exceeding
twenty feet long, run themfclves afliore in this ifle, very feafoiiably, in time of fcarcity,
for the natives did eat them all ; and toll me that tiie fea-pork, i. e the whale, is both
whole fome and very nourifliing meat. There is a frefli-water lake in the middle of the
ifle, on the eall fide of whicli there is an old caltle now in ruins. The ifle being low
and moorifli, is unwholcfonie, and m.ikcs the natives lubjed to the ague. The inhabi-
tants living in the fouth-eaff parts are for the mod part bald, and have but very thin hair
on their heads. There is a cave in tlie fouth-vvell, which the natives are accuftotned to
watch in the night, and then take many cormorants in it. T!iere are feveral forts in
the ifle ; one in the middle of it, and Dun- Taelk in Baelly Petris : they are in form
the fame with ihofc in the northern ifles. There are feveral great and fmall circles of
(tones in this ifle The inhabitants are all Protc (lants ; they obferve the feflivals of
Chriltmas, Good-Friday, Eaflcr, and St. Michael's Day. Upon the latter there is a
general cavalcade, at which all the inhabitants rendezvous. 1 hey fpcak the Irifli tongue,
and i*ear the Highland drefs. This ifle is the Duke of iVrgyle's property, it being one

WEarnuN islands of Scotland.

651

of the iftes lately pofTeni'd by the laird of Mac-Lean : the pari(h church in the ifle is
called Soroby^ aiid is a parfunage.

The JJle of Coll.'

THIS ifle lies about half a league to the e.ifl and norrh-cafl of Tirc-iy, from which
it hath been fovercd by the fea. It is ten miles in length, and three in breadth ; it is
generally rompofi.d of little mckv hills, covered with heath. 'Jhe north-fKie is much
plainer, and arable j^rfinul, alloriling barley and oats; tlie inhabitants always feed on
the latter, and thole of 1 nv-iy on the former. The ifle of Coll produces more boys than
girls, and the ifle of Tire-iy more girls than boys ; as if nature intended both thefe ifles
for mutual alliances, without being at the trouble of going to the adjacent ifles or conti-
nent to be matched. The parilh-book, in which the number of the baptized is to be
leen, confirms this obfcrvaiion.

Thsi'e are feveral rivers in this ifle that afford falmon. There is a frefh-water lake in
the fouth-eafl fide, which hath iruuts and eels. Within a quarter of a mile lies a little
caftle, iht. feat of M.x Lean of Coll, the proprietor of the ifle : he and all the inhabitants
are Proteflants ; they obferve the feitivals of Chriflmas, Good-Friday, Eafler, and
St. Michael : at the I ittor they have a general cavalcade. All the inhabitants fpeak the
Irifli tongue, (a few excepted.) and wear the habit ufed by the reft of the iflanders.
This ifle i^ much wholefomer than that of Tire-iy. I favv a gentleinan of Mac-Lean of
Coil's family here, aged eighty-five, who walked up and down the fields daily.

Cod and ling abound on the coaft of this ifle, and are of a larger fize here than in the
adjacent ifles and continent.

On the foutheaft coaft of this ifle He the train of rocks called the Tain of Coll ; they
reach about half a league from the fliore, and are remarkable for their fatality to fea-
faring men, of which there are feveral late inftaiices. There is no venomous creature
in this ifland, or that of Tire-iy.

Rum.

THIS ifle lies about four leagues fouth fromSkie; it is mountainous and heathy,
but the coaft is arable and fruitful. 1 he ifle is five miles long from fouth to north,
and three from eaft to weft ; the north end produces fr^me wood. J he rivers on each
fide afl'ord falmon. There i^ ■ "ity of land and feafowl ; fome of the latter, efp^cially
the puffin, build in the hills as nuch as in \\\^^ rocks on the coaft, in wliich tiiere are
abundance of caves: the rock facing the well fide is red, and that on the eaft fide grey.
The mountains have fome hundreii of deer };raz!ng in them. 'l"he nativ s gave me an
account of a ftrange obfervation, which they lay prov.s fatal to the pofterity cfLachlin,
a cadet of Mac-Lean of Coil's family ; that d ^my of them Hiont at a deer on the moun-
tain Finch: a, he dies fuddenly, or contrads fonie violent diilemper, wliich I'oon puts a
period to his life. They told me fome inftanccs to this purpofe : whatever u'.ay be in
it, thi re is none of the tribe above named will ever offor to ftioot the uecr in that
nioimtain.

The bay Loch-Screford on the eaft fide is not fit i:\- anchoring, except without the
entry.

There is a chapel in this ifle ; the natives are Proteftants ; Mnc-Lean of Coll is pro-
prietor, and the language and habit the fame w ith the noriUcrn iilos,

8 IJi»

■1

66a

MARTIN S DESCRIPTIOM OF TUB

IJIc Muck.

IT lies a little to tl»o fouth-wtfl of Rum, being four miles in circumfL-rencc, all fur-
rounded with a rock; it is fruitful in corn and grafs : the hawks in the rocks here are
reputed to be very good. The cattle, fowls, and amphibia of this illand, are the fan\e
as in other iilcs ; the natives fpeak the Irifli tongue only, and ufe the habit wore by their
neighbours.

IJle Civinay.

THIS iflelies about half a mile ofl" Rum ; it is two miles from fouth to north, and
one from call to well. It is for the mull part furnnindid with a high rock, and the
whole fruitful in corn and grafs: the fouth dui liath plenty of cod and Img.

There is a high hill in the north end, wiiich dilorders the needle in the compafs : I
laid the compafs oj» the llony ground near it, and the needle went often round with
great fwiftnefs, and infttad of fettling tovvaid;< tlie north, as ulual, it fettled here due cart.
The ftoncs in the furface of the earth arc M.uk, and the rock below facing the fea is
red : fome affirm that the needle o{ a ftiip'p c<nipafs, failing by the hill, is dilordered by
the force of the magnet in this rock ; but of this 1 have no certainty.

The natives call this ifle by the name of '1 ai liii at fea ; the rock Heifkcr on the fouth
end abounds with wild geefein /\ugull, and then they call their quills. '1 he church in
this ifle is dedicated to St. Colund^us. All tlv.' natives are Kom<\i) Catholics j they ufe
the language and habit of the other ifles. Allan Mac-Donald is proprietor. There is
good- anchorage on the north-call ot tins ille.

A Defcription nf the l/Je of Egg.

THIS ifle lies to the fouth of .'^kie alout four leagues; it is three miles in lcngth»
and a mile and a half in breadth, and abf)ui nine in circumference : it is all rocky and
i-nountainous from the middle t wards the wed ; the eaft fide is plainer, and more
arable : the whole is indifferently good for padurage and cultivation. There is a moun-
tain in the fouth end, anJ on the top of it there is a high rock called Skur Kgg, about
an hundred and fifty paces in circumference, and has a frtlh-water lake in the middle
of it ; there is noaccefs to this rock but by one padagc, which makes it a natural fort.
There is a harbour on the fouih-eafl fide of this ifle, wnich may be entered into by either
fide the fmall ifle without it. There is a very big cave on the fouth-weft fide of this
ifle, capable of containing feveral hundreds of people. The coafl guarding the north-
wert is a foft quarry of w hite done, having Ibme caves in it. There is a well in the vil-
lage called /;v(?/)f«H/a, reputed efhcacious agiinft feveral diilempers : the natives told
me that it never fails to cure any perlon ol their firfl: dillafe, only by drinking a quantity
of it for the fpace of two or three days ; and that if a flrangcr lie -.x this well in the
night-time, it will procure a deformity in fome part cf his bidy, but has no efled on a
native ; and this tiiey fay f ath been frequently experimented.

There is a heap of lloius here called Martin Dij/H, i. e. a place confecratcd to the
faint of that name, about which the natives oblige tliemlllves to make a tour round
fan ways.

Thcie is another heap of flones, which ihey fay vvas confecratcd to the Virgin Mary.

In the village on the louth coal! of this ille there is a well, called St. Katherine's well ;
the natives have it in great erteem, and believe it to be a cntlmlicon for difeafes. They
told mc that it had been fuch ever fince it was confecratcd by one Father Hugh, a popilh

6 pricll.

* VrB«TBRN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 66^

prieftjin the following manner : he obliged all the inhabitants to come to this well, and
then employed them to bring together a great heap of (tones at the head of the fpring,
by way of penance. This being done, he faid niafs at the well, and then couffcratcd ii ;
he gave each of the inhabitants a piece of wax candle, which they lighted, and all of
them made the deflil, of going round the well fun ways, the pricfl leading tlicm : and
from that time ii was accounted unlawful to boil any meat with the water of this woll.

The natives obfvrve St. Katherine's anniverfary ; all of them come to the well, and
having drank a draught of it, they make the deflil round it fun ways ; this is always
performed on the fifteenth day of April. The inhabitants of this ifle arc well propor-
tioned ; they fpeak the Irifli tongue only, ;md wear the habit of the iflanders j they are
all Roman Catholicks, except one woman, that is a proteftant.

There is a church here on the eafl: fide the ifle, dedicated to St. Donnan, whofo anni-
verfary they obferve.

About thirty yards from the church there is a fepulchral urn unJer ground ; it is a
big Hone hewn to the bottom, about four feet deep, and the diameter of' it is about the
fame breadth } I caufed them to dig the ground above it, and we found a flat thin Iloue
covering the urn : it was almoft full of human bones, but no head among thetn, and
they were fair and dry. I enquired of the natives what was become of the heads, and
they could not tell ; but one of them faid, perhaps their head had been cut off with a
two handed fword, and taken away by the enemy. Some few paces to the north of the
urn there is a narrow pafliige under ground, but how far it reaches they could give me
no account.

The natives dare not call this ifle by its ordinary name of Egg, when they are at fea,
but ifland Nim-Ban-More, i. e. the ifle of big women. St. Donnan's well, which is in
the fouth-wcft end, is in great efteem by the natives; for St. Donnan is the celebrated
tutelar of this ifle. The natives do not allow protefliants to come to their burial.

The proprietors of the ifle are AJlan Mac-Donald of Moydoit, and Allan Mac-Donald
of Moron.

St. Kilda^ or HirU

THE firfl: of thcfe names is taken from one Kilder, who lived here ; and from him
the large well Tombir-Kilda has alfo its name. Hirt,. is taken from the Irifli ler, which
in that language fignifies wefl: ; this ifle lies dircflly oppofite to the iflcs of North- Vilt,
Harries, he. It is reckoned eighteen leagues from the former, and twenty from Har-
ries. This ifle is by Peter Goas, in a map he made of it at Rotterdam, called St. Kil-
der J it is the remoteft of all the Scots north- weft ifles : it is about two miles in length,
and one in breadth ; it is faced all round with a fteep rock, except the bay on the fouth-
cafl, which is not a harbour fit for any veflel, though in the time of a calm one may land
upon the rock, and get up into the ifland with a little climbing. The land rifes pretty
high in the middle, and there is one mountain higher than any other part of the ifland.
'J'licic are feveral fountains of good water on each fide this ifle. The corn produced
here is oats and barley, the latter is the largeft in the weftern ifles.

The horlVs and cows here are of a lower fize than in the adjacent ifles, but the flieep
differ only in the bigneis of their horns, which are very long.

There is an ancient fort on the fouth end of the bay called Dun-fir- Volg, i. e. the
fort of the Volfcij : this is the fenfe put upon the word by the antiquaries of the oppofite
iiles of Yifl.

The

664

martin's DESCRIPTlOt} OF TUB

'Jill- iflcSivi is nonr Ii.ilf ;i milo ilirtant from tli" wcfl full- of St. Kilda; it Is a ruilo in
ciiviimltTtncc, very liij^li, :\ml lUt'p all rouiul Hoicra, lies ubtive two Icagius north olf
St. Kilvla ; it is iicira mill.' in circunitcrtnce, tlu* mu)I1 ot it furroundinl witli a high rock.
1 ht' largfll anil tlic two UflVr ill^'s art* >jooii inr paihirage, ami abound with a prodi ;ious
ruinhcr »if lea fowl, fro'n March till Sipti'mlicr ; the Solan f^'cfe arc very nnmerous
here, inroiniuh that the inhabitants comtnonly keep yearly above twenty tlioufand
young and old in there little Hone houle , ot which thete are lomo hundreds for pr-'lerv-
inpj their fowls, efij^s, &c. 'J'he) ufc no l.dt for prefiMviiij^ their fowl ; the ej;)j;s ofihe
fci wild fowl are prekrved tome months in the allies of peats, and arc altiing^Jiu to
iiich as be not accuilotned to eat them.

The Solan j^oofe is in fize fomewhat Icfs than a land goofe, and of a white colour,
except the tips of the wiiijj;s, which are black, and the top of their head, wliich is
yellow ; their bill is lonjr, Inia 1 pointed, and very hard, and pierces an incU deep into
wood, in their defcent alter a liilj laid on a board, as fonu* uie to catch them. Whcii
they deep, they put their head under their wings, but one of them keeps watch, and if
that be furprized by the fo<.\Ur (which often happens) all the relt are then eafiiy caught
by the neck, one after another ; but if the centinol gives warning, by crying loud, then
all the fli)ck make their elcapo. When this fowl filhos for herring, it flies about fixty
yards high, and then defcends perpendicularly into the fea, but after all other fifli it dc«
IcenJsa-lquint : the reafon for tliis manner of pur uing the herrings is, becaufe they
arc in greater Ih^^alsthan any other fi(h whatfoever.

There is a barren tribe of Solan geere» that keep always together, and never mix a-
mong the reft that build and hatch. The Solan gcefe come to thofe iflands in March,
taking the advantage of a fouth-wcfl wind : before their coming, they fend a few of
their number, as harbingers before them, and when they have made a tour round the
iilcs, they return immediatily to the company ; and in a few days after, the whole flock
comes together, and Hays till September. J he natives make a pudding of the fat of
this fowl, in the ilomach of it, and boil it in their wuter-gruel, which they call brochan }
they drink it likewife for removing the cough : it is by daily experience found to be an
excellent vulnerary.

The inhabitants cat the Solan goofeegg raw, and by experience find it to be a good
pcdorai. The Solan geefc are daily making up their nefts from March till Sv?ptember :
they make them in the flielves of high rocks ; they fifli, hatch, and make theirnefts.by
turns, and they amafs for this end a great heap of grafs, and fuch other things as they eaten
floating on the water : the (leward of St. kilda told me, that they had found a red coat
in a i\d\, a brafs fun dial, and an arrow, and fome Molucca beans in another nefl.
This Solan goofe is believed to be the (harpeft fighted of all fea fowls ; it preferves five
or fix herrings in its gorget entire, and carries them to the ne(t, where it fpews them
out to ferve as food to the young ones : they are ohferved to go a fifhing to feveral ifles
that lie about thirty leagues iliitanr, and carry the fifli in their gorget all that way ; and
this is confirmed by the Englifh hooks, which aie found (licking to the fifli-bones in
their ncds, for the natives hive no fuch hooks among them.

They have another bird here called Fulmar; it is a grey fowl, about the fize of a
moor-hen : it has a (Irong bill, with wide nollrils ; as often as it goes to fea, it is a cer-
tain fign of a wtflern wind, for it fitb always on the rock, when the wind is to blow
from any other quarter. '1 his fowl, the natives fay, picks its food out of live whales,
and that it eats lorrel ; for both thofe forts of food are found in its neft. When any
one approaches the Fulmar, it fpouts out at its bill ubuut a quart of pure oil ^ the natives

furprise

WESTERN ISLANDS OP SCOTLAND.

66s

furprize the fowl and prefervethe oil, and burn in their lamps : it is good againfl rheu.
luatick pains and achs in the bones, the inhabitants of the adjacent ifles value it as a
catholicon for difeafes ; fome take it for a vomit, others for a purge. It has been fiic
cefsfuliy ufcd againit rheumatick pains in Edinburgh and London : in the latter it has
been lately "ufcd to alTuage the fwelling of a ftrained foot, a cheek fwelled with the tooth-
ach, and for difcufling a hard boil ; and proved ruccef^ful in all the three cafes.

Tlicrc is picruy of cod and ling, of a great lize, round this ille, the improvement of
which nnght be of groat advantage.

The inhabitants are about two hundred in number, and are well proportioned ; they
fpeak the Irifli language only; their habit is much like that ufcd in the adjacent ifles,
but coarfer : they are not fubjeit to many difeafes ; they contraft a cough as often as
any llrangcrs land and flay for any time among them, and it continues for fome eight or
ten days; they fay the very infants on the breail are infeded by it. The men are
ftronger than the inhabitants of the oppofite weftcrn ifles ; they feed much on fowl,
efpecially the Solan gecfc, puflln, and fulmar, eating no fait with them. This is be.
lievcd to be the caufe of a leproCy, that is broke out among them of late : one of them
that was become corpulent, and had his throat almoli: fliut up, being advifed by me to
take fait with his meat, to cxercife himfclf more in the fields than he had done of late,
to forbear eating of fat fowl, and the fat pudding called giben, and to eat forrel, was
very much concerned, becaufe all this was very difagrceable ; and my advifing him to
eat forrel was perfcflly a furprize to him : !> ■; when I bid him confider how the fat
fulmar eat this plant, he was at lafl difpofed to take my advice ; and by this means
alone in a few days after, his voice was much cleare.-, his appetite recovered, and he was
in a fair way of recovery. Twelve of thefe lepers died the year after of this diftemper,
and were in the fame condition with this man.

Both fexes have a genius for poefy, and compofe entertaining verfcs and fongs in
their own language, which is very emphatical. Some years ago, about twenty of their
number happened to be confined in the rock Slack N'armtn for fevcral days together,
without any kind of food ; the feafon then not favouring their endeavours to return home,
one of their number plucked all their knives out of the hafts, wrought a hook out of
each, and then beat them out to their former length ; he had a (lone for an anvil, and a
dagger for a hammer and file : and with thefe rude hooks, and a few forry fifhing-lines,
they purchafed fifh for their maintenance, during their confinement for leveral days in
the rock. All the men in the iile having gone to the ifle Boreray for purchafe, the
rope that faflened their boat happened to break ; and by this unlucky accident, the
boat was quite lofl, and the poor people confined in the ifle from the middle of March
till the latter end of May, without fo much as a cruft of bread ; but they had fhoep,
fowl, and filh in abundance. They were at a lofs how to acquaint their wives and
friends, that all of them were alive; but to efFe£l this, they kindled as many fires on
the top of an eminence as there were men in number : this was no fooner fcen, and the
fires counted, then the women underllood the fignal, and were fo overjoyed at this un-
expefted news, that they fell to labour the ground with the foot-fpade, a fatigue they
had never been accuftomed to ; and that year's produ£l of corn was the mofl plentiful
that they had for many years before. After the (leward's arrival in the ifle about the
end of May, he fent his galley to bring home all the men confined in the ifle, to tiieir
fo much longed for St. Kilda ; where the mutual joy between them and their wives,
and other relations, was extraordinary.

The inhabitants are of the reformed religion ; they afTemble in the church-yard on the

Lord's Day, and in the morning they fay the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Comntand-

VOL. in. 4 Q mems :

'^.

666

MARTIN S DESCRIPTION OF THE

ments : they work at no employment •till Monday, neither will they allow a ftranger
to work fooner. The officer, or (leward's deputy commonly, and fometimes any of
their neighbours, baptize their children foon after they are born ; and in the following
form : " ^. I. I baptize you to your father and mother, in the name of the Father, Son,
and Holy Ghoft." They marry early and publickly, all the natives of both fexes being
prefent ; the officer who performs the marriage tenders a crucifix to the married couple,
who lay their right hands on it, and then the marriage is ratitiod.

They obfervc the feftirals of Chriftmas, Eafler, Good Friday, and that of All-Saints ;
upon the latter they bake a large cake, in form of a triangle, furrowed round, and it
mud be all eaten that night. They are hofpitable, and charitable to Grangers, as well
as the poor belonging to themfclves, fur whom all the families contribute a proportion
monthly, and at every fcHival each family fends them a piece of mutton or beef.

They fwcar decifive oaths by the crucifix, and this puts an end to anv controverfy ;
for there is iiot one inftance, ot* the lead fufpiciou of perjury among them. The cruci«
fix is of brafs, and about nine inches in length ; it lies upon the altar, but they pay no
religious worftiip to it. One of the inhabitants was fo fincere, that, (rather than for*
fwear hitnfelf on the crucifix, he confeflTed a capital crime before the miniller, and my-
felf. They never fwear, or fleal, neither do they take God's name in vain at any time ;
they are free from whoredom and adultery, and of thofe other immoralities that abound
(b much every where elfe.

One of the inhabitants called Roderick, a fellow th.it could not read, obtruded a falfc
religion upon the credulous people, which he pretended to have received from St. John
the Baptift. It is remarkable, that in his rhapfoiiies, which he called prayers, he had
the word Eli ; and to this purpofe, Eli is our prefcrver. There is a little hill, upon
which he fays John the Baptift delivered fermons and prayers to him ; this he called
John's-Bufh, and made the people believe it was fo facrcd that if either cow or ftieep
did tafte of its grafs, they were to be killed immediately after, and the owners were to
eat them, but never without the company of the impoftor. He made thtm likewife be-
lieve that each of them had a tutelar faint in heaven to intercede fur them, and the an-
niverfary of every one of thofe was to be neceflarily obferved, by having a fplendid
treat, at which the impofter wus always the principal perfon. Ho taught the women a
devout hymn, which he faid he had from the Virgin Mary ; he made them believe that
it fecured any woman from mifcarriage that could repeat it by heart, and each of them
paid the impoHor a fheep for it.

Upon Mr. Campbell's arrival and mine in St. Kilda, Roderick made a public recanta-
tion of his impodure ; and being then by us brought to the ifle of Harries, and after-
wards to the ifle of Skie, he has made public confeffion in fevcral churches of his con-
verfe with the devil, and not John the Baptid, as he pretended, and feems to be very
penitent. He is now in Skie ifle, from whence he is never to return to his native coun-
try. His neighbours are heartily glad to be rid of fuch a vidian, and are now happily
delivered from the errors he impofed upon them, ihc ifle is the Laird of Mac-leod's
property, he is head of one of the mod ancient tribes in the ifles ; he bedows the ifle
upon a cadet of his name, whofe fortune is low, to maintain his family, and he is called
deward of it : he vifits the ifle once every fumnier, to demand the rents, viz. down,
wool, butter, chcefe, cows, horfes, fowl, oil, and barley. The deward's deputy is one
of the natives, and days always upon the place ; he has free lands, and an onicr of
barley from each family ; and lias the honour of being the fird and lad in their boat,
as they go and come to tht leffer ifles or rocks. The ancient mcafure of omer and cu-
bit continues to be ufcd ;'i this ifle. They have neither gold nor filver, but barter

2 among

WESTERN ISLANDS OF OCOTLAND. 66}^

among thomfelves and the ftewards men for what they want. Some years ago the
ileward determined to exaft a flieep from every family in the ifle, the number amount-
ing to twenty feven ; and for this he put them in mind of a late precedent, of their hav-
ing given the like number to his predeceflTor. But they anfwered, that what they gave
then, was voluntary, and upon an extraordinary occafion of his being wind-bound in
the ifle, and that this was not to be a cuftom afterwards. However the (leward fent his
brother, and with a competent number of men to take the flieep from them by force ;
but the natives arming themfelves with their daggers, and fifliing rods attacked the
fteward's brother, giving him fome blows on the head, and forced him and his party to
retire, and told him that they would pay no new taxes *. and by this (tout refiftance,
they preferved their freedom from fuch inipoiition.

The inhabitants live contentedly together in a little village on the ead-fide St. Kilda,
which they commonly call the country ; and the ifle Borreray, which is little more than
two leagues diftant from them, they call the northern country. The diftance between
their houfes is by them called the High-ftreet : their houfes are low, built of (lone and
a cement of dry earth ; they have couples and ribs of wood covered with thin earthern
turf, thatched over thefe with ft raw, and the roof fecured on each fide with double
ropes of draw or heath, poifed at the end with many (tones : their beds are commonly
made in the wall of their houfes, and they lie on (traw, but never on feathers or down,
thou^Ii they have them in greater plenty than all the weltern ifles befides. The reafon
for making their bed-room in the walls of their houfes, is to make room for their cows,
which they take in during the winter and fpring.

They are very exaft in their properties, and divide both the fifliing as well as fowling
rocks with as great nicenefs as they do their corn and grafs ; one will not allow his
neighbour to fit and fifli on his feat, for this being a part of his poflfeflion, he will take
care that no encroachment be made upon the leait part of it : and this with a particular
regard to their fucceflTors, that they may lofe no privilege depending upon any parcel of
their farm. They have but one boat in the ifle, and every man hath a fliare in it, pro<
portionably to the acres of ground for which they pay rent. They are (lout rowers,
and will tug at the oar for a long time, without any intermiffion. When they fail, they
ufe no compafs, but take their meafures from the fun, moon, or (tars ; and they rely
much on the courfe of the various flocks of fea fowl : and this laft is their fureft direc-
tory. When they go to the lelTer ifles and rocKs to bring home (heep, or any other
purchafe, they carry an iron pot with them, and each family furniflies one by turns ;
and the owner on fuch occafions has a fmall tax paid him by all the families in the ifle,
which is by them called the pot-penny.

There was another tax paid by each family to one of the natives, as often as they
kindled a (ire in any of the lelTer ifles or rocks, and that for the ufe of his (leel and
flint ; and this was by them called the (ire-penny.

This tax was very advantageous to the proprietor, but very uneafy to the common-
wealth, who could not be fumifhed with fire on thefe occafions any other way. But I
told them that the chryftal growing in the rock on the fliore would yield fire, if ftruck
with the back of a knife, and of this I (hewed them an experiment ; which when they
faw, was a very furprifing, and to them a profitable difcovcry in their efteeni, being fuch
as could be had by every man in the ifle ; and at the fame time delivf red them from an
endlefs charge : but it was very difobliging to the poor man who loft his tax by it.

The inhabitants of St. Kilda excel all thofe I ever faw in climbing rocks : they told
me that fome years ago their boat was fplit to pieces upon the weft fide of Borrera ifle,
and they were lorceJ to lay held on a bare rock, which was ftecp, and above twenty

4 ti 2 fathom

■i

663

MARTIN S DESCRIPTION OF THE

fathom high ; notwlthftandlng this difficulty, feme of them climbed up to the top, and
frpm thence itt down a rope and plaids, and fo drew up all the boat's crew, though the
climbing this rock would fecni impoffible to any other except themfelves.

This little commonwealth hath two ropes of about twenty four fathoms length each,
for climbing the rocks, which they do by turns ; the ropes are i'ecured all round with
cows* hides faltcd for the ufe, and which prefervos them from being cut by the edge of
the rocks. By the aflillance of thefe ropes they purchafe a great number of eggs and
fowls : 1 have feen them bring home in a morning twenty nine large bafkets all full of
eggs ; the leaft of the bafkets contained four hundred big eggs, and the reft right hun-
dred and above of Icfl'er eggs. They had with them at the fame time about two thou«
fund fea fowl, and fomc fifli, together with fome limpets, called patella^ the biggeft I
ever faw. They catch many fowls likewife, by laying their gins, which are made of
horfe-hair, having a noofe at the diltance of two feet each ; the ends of the rope at
which the noofe hangs, are fecurcd by (lone.

The natives gave me an account of a very extraordinary rifque which one of them
ran as laying his gins, which was thus : As he was walking bare foot along the rock
where he had fixed his gin, ho happened to put his toe in a noofe, and immediately fell
down the rock, but hung by the toe, the gin being ftrong enough to hold him, and the
Hones that fecured it on each end being heavy : the poor man continued hanging thus
for the fpace of a night on a rock twenty fathom height above the fea, until one of his
neighbours hearing him cry, came to his refcue, drew him up by the feet, and fo faved
him.

Thefe poor people do fometimes fall down as they climb the rocks, and perifh : their
wives on fuch occafions make doleful fongs, which they call lanKntations, The chief
topicks are their courage, their dexterit) in climbing, and their great affedion which
tliey fhewed to their wives and, children.

It is ordinary with a fowler, after he has got his purchafe of fowls, to pluck the fatteft,
and carry it home to his wife as a mark of his affeftion ; and this is called the rock-fowl.

The batchelors do in like manner carry this rock fowl to their fweethearts, and it is
the greateft prefent they can make, confidcring the danger they run in acquiring it.

The richeft man in the ifle has not above eight cows, eighty fheep, and two or three
horfes. If a native here have but a few cattle, he will marry a woman, though flic have
no other portion from her friends but a pound of horfe-hair, to make a gin to catch
fowls.

The horfes here are very low of ftature, and employed only to carry home their
peats and turf, which is their fuel. The inhabitants ride their horfes (which were but
eighteen in all) at the anniverfary cavalcade of All-Saints : this they never fail to ob-
fcrve. They begin at the ftiore, and ride as far as the houfes ; they ufe no laddies of
any kind, nor bridle, except a rope of ftraw which manages thehorfe's head : and when
they have all taken the horfes by turns, the (how is over for that time.

This ifle produces the fineft hawks in the weftem ifles, for they go many leagues for
their prey, their being no land-fowl in St. Kilda proper for them to eat, except pigeons
and plovers.

One of the inhabitants of St. Kilda being fome time ago wind-bound in the ifle of
Harries, was prevailed on by fome of them that traded to Glafgow to go thither with
them. He was aftonifhed at the length of the voyage, and of the great kingdoms as he
thought them, that is ifles, by which they failed ; the largeft in his way did not exceed
twenty four miles in length, but he confidered how much they exceeded his own little
oative country.

Upon

WtSTERN ISLANDS OP SCOTLAND.

669

Upon his arrival at Glafgow, he was like one that had dropt from the clouds into a
new world ; whofe language, habit, &c. were in all refpefts new to him : he never ima-
gined that fuch big houfes of ftone were made with hands ; and for the pavements of the
ftreets, he thought it muft needs be altogether natural ; for he could not believe that
men would be at the pains to beat ftones into the ground to walk upon. He ftood
dumb at the door of his lodging with the greateft admiration ; and when he law a coach
and two horfes, he thought it to be a little houfe they were drawing at their tail, with
men in it ; but he condemned the coachman for a fool to fit fo uneafy, for he th<^u^ht
it fafer to fit on the horfe's back. The mechanifm of the coach-wheel, and its runnmg
about, was the greateft of all his wonders.

When he went through the ftreets he defired to have one to lead him by the hand.
Thomas Rofs, a merchant, and others, that took the diverfion to carry hmi through
the town, alked his opinion of the High Church ? He anfwered, that it was a large
rock, yet there were fome in St. Kilda much higher, but that thefe were the beft caves
he ever faw ; for that was the idea which he conceived of the pillars and arches upon
which the church ftands. When they carried him into the church, he was yet more
furprifed, and held up his hands with admiration, wondering how it was poflible for
men to build fuch a prodigious flibric, which he fuppofed to be the largeft in the uni-
verfe. He could not imagine what the pews were defigned for, and he fancied the people
that wore maflis (not knowing whether they were men or women) had been guilty of
fome ill thing, for which they dared not flaew their faces. He was amazed at women's
wearing patches, and fancied them to have been blifters. Pendants feemed to him the
moft ridiculous of all things ; he condemned perriwigs mightily, and much more the
powder ufed in them : in fine, he condemned all things as fuperfluous he faw not in
his own country. He looked with amazement on every thing that was new to him. When
he heard the church-bells ring, he was under a mighty confternation, as if the fabric of
the world had been in great diforder. He did not think there had been fo many people
in the world as in the city of Glafgow ; and it was a great myftery to him to think what
they could all defign by living fo many in one place. He wondered how they could all
be furnifhed with provifion ; and when he faw big loaves, he could not tell whether
they were bread, ftone, or wood. He was amazed to think how they could be pro-
vided with all', for he never faw any there that drank water. He wondered how they
made them fine clothes, and to fee ftockings made without being firft cut and after-
wards fewn, was no fmall wonder to him. He thought it foolifh in women . to
wear thin filks, as being a very improper habit for fuch as pretended to any fort of
employment. When he faw the women's feet, he judged them to be of another fliape
than thofe of the men, becaufe of the different fliape of their ftioes. He did not ap-
prove of the heels worn by men or women ; and when he obferved horfes with ihoes
on their feet, and faftened with iron nails, he could not forbear laughing, and thought
it the moft ridiculous thing that ever fell under his obfervation. He longed to fee his
native country again, and pafiionatcly wilhed it were bleffed with ale, brandy, tobacco,
and iron, as Gluigow was.

TherQ is a couple of large eagles who have iheir neft on the north end of the ifle ;
the inhabitants told me that they commonly make their purchafe in the adjacent ifles
and continent, and never take fo much as a lamb or hen from the place of their abode,
where they propagate their kind. I Forgot to give an account of a fingular providence
that happened to a native in the ifle ot Skie, called Neil, who when an infant was left
by his mother in the field, not far from the houfes on the north fide Loch-Portrie ; .
an eagle came in the mean time, and carried him away in its talons as far as the fouth

I. fide

670 martin's description of the

fide of the Loch, and there, laying him on the ground, fomc people that were herd-
ing flieep there perceived it, and hearing the infant cry, ran immediately to its refcue ;
and by good Providence found him untouched by the eagle, and carried him home to
his mother. He is Aill living in that parifli, and by reafon of this accident, is dif*
tinguiihcd among his neighbours by the fimame of Eagle.

Ah Account of the Second-Sight ^ in Irijh called Taijh.

The fecond-fight iU a fingular faculty of feeing an otherwife invifible objeft, without
any previous means ufed by the perfon that fees it for that end ; the vifion makes fuch
a lively impreflion upon the feers, that they neither fee nor think of any thing elfe,
except the vifion, as long as it continues : and then they appear penfive or jovial, ac-
cording to the ohie£t which was reprefented to them.

At the fight of a vifion, the eye-lids of the perfon are erected, and the eyes continue
flaring until the objed vanifli. This is obvious to others who are by, when the perfons
happen to fee a vifion, and occurred more than once to my own obfervation, and to
others that were with me.

There is one in Skie, of whom his acquaintance obferved, that when he fees a vifion,
the inner part of his eye-lids turn fo far upwards, that after the objed difappears, he
mud draw them down with his fingers, and fometimes employs others to draw them
down, which he finds to be the much eafier way.

This faculty of the fecond-fight does not lineally defcend in a fiimily, as fome imagine,
for I know feveral parents who are endowed with it, but their children not, and vice
verfa : neither is it acquired by any previous compad. And, after a firlQ. inquiry, I
could never learn from any among them, that this faculty was communicable any way
whatfoever.

The feer knows neither the object, time, nor place of a vifion, before it appears ;
and the fame obje£l is often feen by different perfons, living at a confiderable dillance
from one another. The true way of judging as to the time and circumflance of an ob-
je£k, is by obfer\-ation ; for feveral perfons of judgment, without this faculty, are more
capable to judge of the defign of a vifion, than a novice that is a feer. If an object
appear in the day or night, it will come to pafs fooner or later accordingly.

If an objed is feen early in a morning (which is not frequent,) it will be accom-
plifhed in a few hours afterwards. If at noon, it will commonly be accomplifhed that
very day. If in the evening, perhaps that night ; if after candles be lighted, it will be
accompliflied that night : the latter always in accomplifhmcnt, by weeks, months, and
fometimes years, according to the time of ni^ht the vifion is feen.

When a (hroud is perceived about one, it is a fure prognoftic of death : the time is
judged according to the height of it about the perfon : for if it is not feen above the
middle, death is not to be expeded for the fpace of a year, and perhaps foine months
longer ; and as it is frequently feen to afcend higher towards the head, death is con>
eluded to be at hand within a few days, if not hours, as daily experience confirms.
Examples of this kind were fhewn me, when the perfons of whom the obfervations then
made enjoyed perfed health.

One mfiance was lately foretold by a feer that was a novice, concerning the death
of one of my acquaintance ; this was communicated to a few only, and with great con>
fidence ; I being one of the number did not in the lead regard it, until the death of
the perfon about the time foretold, did confirm me of the certainty of the prediAion.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 6 J I

The novice mentioned above is now a fkilful feer, as appears from many late inftances j
he lives in the f Ari(h of St. Mary's, the mod northern in Slue.

If a woman is feen (landing at a man's left hand, it is a prefage that fhe will be his
wife, whether they be married to others, or unmarried at the time of the apparition.

If two or three women are feen at once (landing near a man's left hand, (he that is
next him will undoubtedly be his wife firft, and fo on, whether all three, or the man be
(ingle or married at the time of the vifion or not ; of which there are feveral late in-
(lances among thofe of my acquaintance. It is an ordinary thing for them to fee a man
that is to come to the houfe (hortly after ; and if he is not of the feer's acquaintaiKe,
yet he gives fuch a livelv defcription of his (lature, complexion, habit, &c. that upon his
arrival he anfwers the cnara£ler given him in all refpefts.

If the perfon fo appearing be one of the feer's acquaintance, he will tell his name, as
well as other particulars ; and he can tell by his countenance whether he comes in a good
or bad humour.

I have been feen thus myfelf by feers of both fexes at fome hundred miles diflance ;
feme that faw me in this manner, had never feen me perfonally, and it happened ac-
cording to their vifions, without any previous defign of mine to go to thofe places, my
coming there being purely accidental.

It is ordinary with them to fee houfes, gardens, and trees, in places void of all three ;
and this in procefs of time ufes to be accomplilhed : as at Mogftot in the i(le of Skie,
where there were but a few forry cow-houfes thatched with (Iraw, yet in a few years
after, the vifion which appeared often was accomplilhed, by the building of feveral
good houfes on the very fpot reprefented to the feers, and by the planting of orchards
there.

To fee a fpark of (ire fall upon one's arm or bread, is a forerunner of a dead child
to be feen in the arms of thofe perfons ; of which there are feveral fre(h indances.

To fee a feat empty at the time of one's fitting in it, is a prefage of that perfon's death
quickly after.

When a novice, or one that has lately obtained the fecond-fight, fees a vifion in the
night-time without doors, and comes near a (ire, he prcfently h\h into a fwoon.

Some (ind themfelves as it were in a crowd of people, having a corpfe which they cany
along with them ; and after fuch vifions the feers come in fweating, and defcribe the
people that appeared ; if there be any of their acquaintance among them, they give
an account of their names, as alfo of the bearers, but they know nothing concerning
the corpfe.

All thofe who have the fecond-fight do not always fee thefe vifions at once, though
they be together at the time. But if one, who has this faculty, defignedly touch his fellow-
feer at the indant of a vifion's appearing, then the fecond fees it as well as the (ird ; and
this is fometimes difcemed by thofe that are near them on fuch occafions.

There is a way of foretelling death by a cry that they call Tai(k, which fome call a
Wrath ill the Lowland.

They hear a loud cry without doors, exaftly refembling the voice of fome particular
perfon, whofe death is foretold by it. The lad indance given me of this kind was ia
the village Rigg, in the ifle of Skie.

Five women were fitting together in the fame room, and all of them heard a loud cry
pafFing by the window ; they thought it plainly to be the voice of a maid who was one
of the number ; (he bluflied at the time, though not fenfible of her fo doing, contrafled
a fever next day, and died that week.

Things

■I;

■i

,;l

6yi

martin's description of the

Things alfo are foretold by fmelling, fometimes as follows : fifli or flefli is frequently
fmelled in a fire, when at the fame time neither of the two are in the houfe, or in any •
probability like to be had in it for fome weeks or months ; for they feldom eat flefh,
and though the fea be near them, yet they catch fifli but feldom, in the winter and
fpring. '1 his fmell feveral perfons have, who are not endued with the fecoud-fight,
and it is always accomplilhed foon after.

Children, horles, and cows fee the fecond-fight, as well as men and women advanced
in years.

That children fee it is plain from their crying aloud at the very inflant that a corpfe
or any other vifion appears to an ordinary feer. I was prefent in a houfe where a
child criid out of a fudden, and being aiked the reafon of it, he anfwercd that he had
feen a great white thing lying on the board which was in the corner : but he was not
believed until a feer who was prefent told them that the child was in the right : " For,
(faid he,) I faw a corpfe and the (hroud about it, and the board will be ufod as part of a
coffin, or fome way employed about a corpfe :" and, accordingly, it was made into u
coffin, for one who was in perfect health at the time of the vifion.

That horfes fee it is likewife plain from their violent and fudden flarting, when the
rider or feer in company with him fees a vifion of any kind, night or day. It is ob-
fervable of the horle, that he will not go forward that way, until he be led about at fome
diftance from the conmion road, and then he is in a fwcat

A horfe faflened by the common road on the fide of Loch-Skerinefs in Skie, did break
his rope at noon-day, and run up and down without tlie lead vifible caufe. But two of
the neighbourhood that happened to be at a little diliance, and in view of the horfe, did
at the fame time fee a confiderable number of men about a corpfe, dircfting their courfe
to the church of Snifort ; and this was accompliflied within a few days after, by the
deah of a gentlewoman who lived thirteen miles from that church, and came Irom an-
other parifli, from whence very few come to Snifort to be buried.

That cows fee the feconJ-fight appears from this ; that when a woman is milking a
cow, and then happen to fee the fecond-fight, the cow runs away in a great fright at
the fame time, and will not be pacified for fome lime after.

Before I mention more particulars difcovered by the fecond fight, it may not be amifs
to anfwer the objedlions that have lately been made againll the reality of it.

Objed. I . i hele feers are vifionary and melancholy people, and fancy they fee things
that do not appear to them, or any body elfe.

Anfw. The people of thefe ifles, and particularly the foers, are very tcmpernte, and
their diet is fimple and moderate in quantity and quality ; io that their brains are not
in all probability difordercd by undigeiled fumes of moat or drink. Both fexes are free
from hyfleric tits, convulfions, and feveral other diftempers of that fort ; there are
no madmen among them, nor any inlhnco of felf-niurder. It is obfcrved amoug them,
that a man drunk never fees the fecond fight ; and he that is a vifionary would difcover
himfelf in other things as well as in that ; and luch as fee it are not judged to be vi«
fionaries by any of their friends or acquaintance.

Objcd. 2. There is none among the learned able to oblige the world with a fatisfy-
ing account of thofe vifions, therefore it is not to be believed.

Anfw. If every thing for which the learned are not able to give a fatisfying account
be condemned as impoflible, we may find many other things generally believed that
muft be rejefted as falfe by this rule. For inllance, yawning, and its influence, and that
tthe loadflone attra^s iron \ and yet thefe are true uti well as harmlcfs, though we can

give

Y'KSTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 673

ftive no fatisfylng accovmt of their caufes. And If we know fo little of natural caufcs,
how much Ids can we pretend to things that are fupernatural ?

Objed. 3. The feers arc impellors, and the people who believe them are credulous,
and eafily impofed upon.

Anfw. The feers are generally illiterate and well-meaning people, and altogether void
.of defign, nor could I ever learn that any of them made the lead gain by it, neither is it
reputable among them to have that faculty : befides the people of the iflcs are not fo
credulous as to believe implicitly, before the thing foretold is accomplifhed ; but when
it aftualiy comes to pafs afterwards, it is not in their power to deny it, without offering
violence to their fcnfes and reafon. Befides, if the feers were d.ccivers, can it be rea-
fonable to imagine, that all the iflanders, who have not the fecond fight, (hould com-
bine together, and olTcr violence to their underftandings and fenfes, to force themfelves
to believe a lie from age to age. There are feveral perfons among them, whofe birth
and education raiie them above the fufpicion of concurring with an impofture, merely
to gratify an illiterate and contemptible fort of perfons ; nor can a reafonable man be-
lieve that children, horfcs, and cows could be pre-ehgagcd in c combination to perfuade
the world of the reality of the fecond fight.

Such as deny thofc vifions give their alTcnt to feveral ftrange paffages in hiftory, upon
the authority aforefaid of hiltorians that lived feveral centuries before our time ; and
yet they deny the people of this generation the liberty to believe their intimate friends
and acquaintance, men of probity and unqucIHonable reputation, and of whofe veracity
they have greater certainty, than we can have of any antiont hidorian.

Every vifion that is feen comes exadlly to pafs according to the true rules of obfer-
vation, though novices and heedlefs perfons do not always judge by thofe rules. I
remember the feers returned me this anfwer to my objcftion, and gave feveral inftances
to that purpofe, whereof the following is one.

A boy of my acquaintance was often furprifed at the fight of a coffin clofe by his
(houlder, which put him into a fright, and made hitn to believe it was a forerunner of
his own death, and this his neighbours alfo judged to be the meaning of that vifion ;
but a feer that lived in the village Knockow, where the boy was then a fervant, told
them that they were under a great miftakc, and defired the boy to lay hold of the firft
opportunity that offered ; and when he went to a burial, to remember to a£t as a
bearer for fome moments : and this ho did accordingly within a few days after, when
one of his acquaintance died ; and from that time forward he was never troubled with
feeing a coffin at his (houlder, though he has feen many at a diftance, that concerned
others. He is now reckoned one of the exafteft feers in the parilh of St. Mary's in
Skie, where he lives.

There is another inftancc of a woman in Skic, who frequently faw a vifion repre-
fenting a woman having a (hroud about her up to the middle, but always appeared with
her back towards her, and the habit in which it feemed to be drcffed refembled her
own ; this was a myftcry for fome time, until the woman tried an experiment to fatisfy
her curiofity, which was to drefs herfelf contrary to the ufual way ; that is, flie put that
part of her clothes behind which was always before, fancying that the vifion at the next
appearing would be the eafier diftinguiftied : and it fell out accordingly, for the vifion
foon after prefented itfelf with its face and drefs looking towards the woman, and it
proved to refemble herfelf in all points, and (he died in a little time after.

There are vifions feen by feveral perfons, in whofe days they arc not accomplifhed;
and this is one of the reafons, why fome things have been feen that arc faid never to

VOL. III. 4 «• come

674 martin's DESCRIl'TION OF THE

come to pafs, and there arc alio ievcral vifions fecn which are not underAood until
they be acconinliflied.

The fccond fight is not a late difcovery fecn by one or two in a corner, or a remote
iilo, but it is fcen by many perfons of both fexes in feveral iflcs, feparated above forty
or fifty leagues from one another : the inhabitants of many of thefe iflcs never had the
lealt convcrfe by word or writing; and this faculty of feting vifiojis liaving continuod,
as we were informed by tradition, ever finco the plantation of tliele ifles, without being
difproved by the nicell fccptic, after the Itiic^elt inquiry, feems to be a clear proof of
its reality.

It is obfcrvable, that it was much more common twenty years ago than at prefent j
for one in ten do not lee it now that faw it then.

Tile fecond fight is not confined to the Wcllern Ides ali^n^', for I liave an account
that it is likewile feen in fever.d parts of Holland, but particularly in IJotnmel, by a
woman, for which flie is courted by fome, and dreaded by others. She fees a finokc about
one's face, which is a forerunner of the death of a perlon To feen ; <\nd fiie did actually
foretel the death of I'evcral that lived there : flie.was living in that town this Lil wintir.

The corpfes-candlcs, or dead-men's lights in Wales, wliich are certain prognofiics
of death, are well known and attelled.

The fecond fight is likewife fecn in the Ifle of Man, as appears by this infiance :
C.ipt. Leaths, the chief magillratc of Belfaff, in his voyage 1690, loft thirteen men by a
vi.ilcnt florm, and, upon his landing in the Ifie of Man, an ancient man, clerk to a parifli
there, told him immediately that he had loll thirteen men ; the Captain iiuiuiring how he
came to the knowledge of that, he anfwered, tliat it was by thirteen lights which he had
ieen come into the church-yard j as ]Mr. Sacheverel tells us, in his late Defcription of
the Ifle of Man.

It were ridiculous to fuppofe a combination between the people of the Weftern Ifles of
Scotland, Holland, Wales, and the Ifle of Man, fince they are feparate 1 by long feas,
and are people of different languages, governments, and interells : they have no
correfpondcnce between them, and it is probable, that thofe inhabiting the North-weft
ifles have never yet heard that any fuch vifions arc fcen in Holland, Walco, or the Ifle
of Man.

Four men of the village Flodgery in Skie bein/^ at fuppcr, one of them did fuddenly
let fall his knife on the table, and looked with an angry countenance ; the company
obferving it, inquired his rcafon, but he returned them no anfwcr until they had fuppcd,
and then he told them tlijat when he let fall his knife, he faw a a corpfc with the ftiroud
about it laid on the table, which furprifed him, and that a little time would accom-
plifli the vifion. It fell out accordingly, for in a few days after one of the family
died, and happened to be laid on that very table. This was told me by the mafter of
the family.

Daniel Stewart, an inhabitant of Hole in the north parifii of St. Mary's in the Ifle of
Skie, faw at noon-day five men on horfeback riding northward ; he ran to meet tiicm,
and when he came to the road, he could fee none of them, which was very l'uri)rifin;.^
to him, and he told it his neighbours : the very next day he faw the fame number of
men and horfc coming along the road, but was not fo ready to meet them as before,
until he heard them fpeak, and then he found them to be thofe that he had feen the day
before in a vifion ; this was the only vifion of the kind he had ever fecn in his life-.
'J'he company he law was Sir Donald Mac-Donald and his retinue, who at the time of
the vifion was at Armidal, near forty miles fuuih of the place where the man lived.

lu A woman

Wr.STI'RN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 67^

A womnn of Stcrnbay in Lewis Iiad a maid vvlio law vifions, an'.] often fell into a
fwoon ; her milliels was very much concerned about her, but cOiild not find out any
moans to prevent her fceinp; thofe things : at lall (lie rcRinOd to pour Ibnie of the water
iil'ed in baptifm on her maid's face, believiiisr this would prevent her feeing any moi»;
li^',hts of this kind. And accordingly (he carried her maid with her next Lord's l)av
and bot!i of them fat near the baun in which the water flood, and after bantifiii, before
theminillcr had coiic!'.:Jed the laft prayer, flie put her hand in the bafin, took up a;^
much water as flic could, and threw it on the maid's face ; at which flrange adion the
miniHer and the congregation were equally furprized. After prayer, the minifler in-
quired of the woman the meaning of luch as an unbecoming and diflraded aflion ; flie
told him, it was to prevent her maid's feeing vifions : and it fell out accordingly, for
from that time fhe never once more faw a vifion of any kind. This account was given
me by Mr. Morifon minider of the place, before feveral of his parifhioners who knew
the truth of it. 1 fubinit the matter of fad to the cenfure of the learned ; but for my
t)wn part, I think it to have been one of Satan's devices to make credulous people have
an cfieem for holy water.

John Morrifon of Bragir in Lewis, a perfon of unqueflionable fmcerity and reputa-
tion told me, that within a mile of his houi'e a girl of twelve years old was troubled at the
frequent fight of a vifion, refembling herfelf in flature, complexion, drefs, &c. and
feemed to ftand or fit, and to be always employed as the girl was ; this proved a great
trouble to her : her parents being much concerned about it, confultcd the faid John
Morrifon, who inquired if the girl was indrufted in the principles of her religion, and
finding (lie was not, he bid them teach her the Creed, Ten Commandments, and the
Lord's Prayer, and that fhe fhould fay the latter daily after her prayers. Mr. Morifon
and his family joined in prayer in the girl's behalf, begging that God of his goodnefs
would be pleafed to deliver her from the trouble of fuch a vifion : after which, and the
girl's complying with the advice as above, fhe never faw it any more.

A man living three miles to the north of the faid John Morrifon, is much haunted by
a fpirit, appearing in all points like to himfelf ; and he afks many impertinent queftions
of the man when in the fields, but fpeaks not a word to him at home, though hefeldoni
mifles to appear to him every night in the houfe, but to no other perfon. He told this
to one of his neighbours, who advifed him to caft a live coal at the face of the vifion the
next time he appeared : the man did fo next night, and all the family faw the adion ;
but the following day the fame fpirit appeared to him in the fields, and beat him feverely,
fo as to oblige him to keep his bed for the fpace of fourteen days after. Mr. Morifon
minifler of the parifli, and feveral of his friends came to fee the man, and joined in prayer
that he might be freed from this trouble,, but he was flill haunted by that fpirit a year
after I left Lewis.

A man in Knockow, in the narlfh of St. Mary's, the northernmofl in Skie, being in
perfect health, and fitting with his fellow-fervauts at night, was on a fudden taken ill,
dropt from his feat backward, and then fell a vomiting ; at which all the family were
much concerned, he having never been fubjed to the like before : but he came to him-
felf foon after, and had no foit of pain about him. One of the family, who was accul-
Tomed to fee the fecond fight, told them that the man's illnefs proceeded from a very
ftrange caul'e, which was thus : an ill-natured woman (naming her by her name) who
lives in the next adjacent village of Dornfldttag, came before him in a very furious and
angry manner, her countenance full of paffion, and her mouth full of reproaches, and
threatened him with her head and hands, until he fell over as you have feen him.
This woman had a fancy for the man, but was like to meet with a difappointment as to

4 R 2 hii

1^5 martin's description op TH8

his marrying her. 'l-'Js inftancc was told me by the iiufter of the family, and other*
vhi) were prcfent when it r:3p|;.'ncd

One that lived in St. Mary's on the ;v?ft fide of the ifte ofSkie.toid Mr. Mack-Pher-
fon the minifter, and others, that Uo law a v I fiott. of a corpfe coming towards the church,
not by the common icjad, but by a niore rus:ged way, which rendered the thin^^ incrcdi.
Me, and occafioned his neighbours to call hnn a fool ; but ht bid thom have patience,
and they would fee the trutli of what he aflcrtcd in a fliort time : and it fell out accord-
ingly ; for one of the neighbourhood died, and hiscorpfe was carried along the fame un-
accuftomed way, the common road being at that time filled with a deep fnow. This
account was given me by the miniller, and others living there.

Mr. Mack-Pherfon's I'ervani foretold that a kiln fhould take fire, and being fome time
.nfter reproved by his mafter for talking fo foolilhly of the fecnnd fijiht, he anfwered that
he could not help his feeing fuch things as prefented themfelves to his view in a very
lively manner ; adding further, I have jud now feen that boy fitting by the fire with his
face red, as if the blood had been running down his forehead, and 1 could not avoid
feeing this : and as for the accomplifhmcnt of it within forty-eight hours, there is no
doubt, fays he, it having appeared in thedaytime. Theminifler became very angry at
his man, and charged him never to fpeak one word more of the fecond fight, or if he
could not hold his tongue, to provide himfelf another mailer ; telling him he was an un-
happy fellow, who fludicd to abufe credulous people with falfe pr^didions. There was
no more faid on this fubjed until the next day, that the boy of whom the feer ipoke,
came in, having his face all covered with blood ; which happened by his falling on a
heap of ftones. This account was given me by the minilter and others of his family.

Daniel Dow, alias Black, an inhabitant of Bomflcittag, was frequently troubled at the
fight of a man threatening to give him a blow : he knew no man refembling this vifion ;
but the flature, complexion and habit were fo imprefled on his mind, that he faid he
could diflinguifh him from any other, if he (liould happen to fee him. About a year
after the vifion appeared firft to him, his mader fent him to Kyle-Raes, above thirty miles
further fouth-eaft, where he was no fooncr arrived, th:\n he diflinguiflied the man who
had fo often appeared to him at home ; and within a tew hours after, they happened to
quarrel, and came to blows, fo as one of them (I forgot which) was wounded in the
head. This was told me by the fcer's mailer, and others who live in the place. The
man himfelf has his refidencc there, and is one of the precifell feers in the ifles.

SirNormand Mack-Leod, and fomc others playing at tables, at a game called in Irifh
Falmar'more, wherein there are three of a fide, and each of them throw the dice by
turns ; there happened to be one difHcuh point in the difpofing of one of the table-men :
this obliged the gamerter to deliberate before he was to change his man, fince upon the
difpofing of it, the winning or lofing of the game depended. At lad the butler, who
flood behind, advifed the player where to place his man ; with which he complied, and
won the game. This being thought extraordinary, and Sir Normand hearing one whif-
per him in the ear, afkcd who advifed him fo Ikillully ? He anfwered, it was the builer j
but this feemed more ft range, for he could not play at tables. Upon this, Sir Nor-
mand afked him how long it was fince he had learnt to play ? and the fellow owned that
he never played in his life, but tliat he faw the fpirit Browny reaching his arm over the
player's head, jfnd touched the part with his finger, on the point where the table-man
was to be placed. This was told me by Sir Normand and others, who happened to be
prefcnt at the time.

Daniel Dow above-named, foretold the death of a young woman In Minginis, within
kfs than twenty-four hours before the time ; and accordingly (he died fuddenly in the

6 fields.

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLANOt 67/

fields, though at the time of the preditElion (he was in perfeft health ; but the (hroud ap-
pearing clofe about her head, was the ground of his confidence, that her death was at
Hand.

'1 he fame Daniel Dow foretold the death of a child in his mafter's arms, hy feeing a
fpark of fire fall on his left arm ; and this was likewife accompliflied foon after the pra-
didUon.

Some of the inhabitants of Harries failing round the ifle of Skie, with a 4<^fign to go to
the oppofite main land, were (Irangcly furprizcd with an apparition of two men hanging
down by the ropes that fccured the mad, but could not conjecture what it meant. They
purfucd the voyage, but the wind turned contrary, and fo forced them into Broadford
in the ifle of Skie, where they found Sir Donald Mack-Donald keeping a Sheriffs Court,
and two criminals receiving fentence of death there : the ropes and mad of that very
boat were made ufe of to hang thofe criminals. This was told me by feveral, who had
this indance from the boat's crew.

Several perfons living in a certain family, told me that they had frequently fcen two
men daiiding at a young gentlewoman's left hand, who was their mafter's daughter :
they told the men's names ; and being her equals, it was not doubted, but fhe would be
married to one of them ; and perhaps to the other, after the death of the fird. Some-
time after a third man appeared, and he feemed always to dand neareft to her of the
three, but the feers did not know him, though they could dcfcribe him exactly. And
within fome months after, this man, who was feen lad, did adually come to the
houfe, and fulfilled the defcription given of him by thofe who never faw him but in a
vifion ; and he married the woman fhortly after. They live in the ifle of Skie j both
they and others confirmed the truth of this indance when I faw them.

Mack-Leod's porter paffmg by a galley that lay in the dock, faw her filled with men,
having a corpfe, and near to it he faw feveral of Mack-Leod's relations : this did in a man-
ner perfuade him that his mader was to die foon after, and that he was to be the corpfe
which was to be tranfported in the galleyf Some months after the vifion was feen, Mack-
Leod, with feveral of his relations and others, went to the ifle of Mull *, where fome
clays after, Maclean of Torloflc happened to die, and his corpfe was tranfported in the
galley to his burial-place, and Mack-Leod's relations were on board to attend the funeral,
while Mack-Leod flaid afliore, and went along with the corpfe after their landing.

Mr. Dougal Mack-Pherfon, minider of St. Mary's on the welt fide of Skie, having
his fervants in the kiln, drying of corn, the kiln happened to take fire, but was foon ex-
tinguiflied. And within a few months after, one of the minider's fervants told him
that the kiln would be on fire again fliortly ; at which he grew very angry with his man,
threatening to beat him if he fliould prefume to prophefy niifchief, by that lying way of
the locond fight. Notwithdanding this, the man alTerted pofitively, and with great af-
furancc, that the kiln would certainly take fire, let them ufe all the precautions they
could. Upon this, Mr. Mack-Pherfon had the curiofity to inquire of his man, if he could
jfucfsv\iihin what fpace of time the kiln would take fire ? he told him before Hallow-
tide. Upon which, Mr. Mack-Pherfon called for the key of the kiln, and told his man
that he would take care of the kiln until the limited day was expired, for none fhalt en-
ter it fooner; and by this means I fhall make the devil, if he is the author of fuch lies,
and you both liars. For this end he kept the key ot the kiln in his prefs, until the time
was over, ;*ml then delivered the key to the fervants, concluding his man to be a fool
and a cheat. Then the fervants went to dry corn in the kiln, and were charged to
have a Ipecial care of vhe fire ; yet in a little time after the k In took fire, and it was all
in a ilame, according to the prcdidion, though the man miftook the time. He told his

naader.

^'<i

•rt;^

martin's description 6F THl

martcr, tlut wiiliiu a few moments after the f.ro of the kiln had been firfl extln,'^\iiflicd,
ho law it all in a flame again; and this appearing to him in the day time, it would
coine to p;il.s the foonor.

John Mack-Nornund, and Daniel Mack-Ewin, travcUins; along tho road, two luiLvs to
tlic north ot Snilort church, faw a body ot' men cominjj from the nonh, as if tlicy had u
Oijrpfo with tluin to bo buiiM in Snilort ; this dctornitiicd fhoni to;iil' ;inct' towards the
rix'cr, which was tlicn a Utile before tliem, and having wam-il at tho h)rd, lliinking to
jneet thofe that they expected with the funeral, were altogether ililappointod ; for after
t;»king a view of the ground all round th^in, they difcovered ih.it it \v<i,s only a vifion.
Tliis was very furpri/.ing to them both, for thcv never faw any thinj; by way of the fecond
fight before or after tlut lime. This they told tlitir nei^;hboiirs wht ii they came home,
and it happened that about two or three weeks afier a coipfecuiue along that road from
another parilli, from which few or none arc brouglii to ijiiifort, except perfoas o! lil-
tinclion ; fo that this vifion wjs exactly accompiinu'd.

A gentleman who is a native of Skie, did, uhiii a boy, difobligc a fccr In the llit; uf
Rafay, and upbraid him for his uglinefs, as being black by n;iine and nituivj. ^\t laft
the fccr told him very angrily, my child, if I 4111 black, you 11 be red ;.>'er I n,;. Ihe
mafler of the family chid him for this, and bid him give <)v< • his 1 . 1'fli prediJiony,
fince no body believed then; but next morning the boy being ;u | lay lear the houfes,
fell on a Hone, and wounded himfelf in the forehead, fo dcrp, that to this day th 'n is a
hollow fear in that part of it.

James Beaton, furgeon in the ifle of Nortli-Vift, tolii me, that being in the ifle of
Mull, a fecr told liim confidently, that he was fliortly to have a bloody forehead ; but
he diircgarded it, and called the feer a fool. However .his James being called by fome
of the Macleans to go along with them to attack a veflel belonging t(» »he Earl of Argyie,
who was then coming to poflels Mull by Ibrce ; they attacked the veflel, and one of
the Macleans being wounded, the laid James, while drefling the wound, happened to rub
his forehead, and then fome of his patient's blood Iluck to his face, which accomplifhcd
the vifion.

My LordVifcount l.ubat, one of lier Majefly's Secretaries of State hi Scotland,
travelling in the fhiro of Rofs, in the north of Scotland, came into a houfe, and fat
down in an armed chair : one of his retinue, who had the faculty of feeing the fecond
fight, fpokc to fome of my l(r'''d company, dt^firing them to perfuade Iiim to leave the
Jioufe ; for, faid he, there is a great misfortune will attend fomebody in it, and that
within a few hours. This was told my lord, but he did not regard it : the feer did
foon after renew his inireaty, with much eagernefs, begging that my lord might remove
out of that unhappy chair, but had no other anfwer than to be expol'ed for a fool.
Some hours after my lord removed, and purfued his journey ; but was not gone many
hours when a trooper riding upon the ice, near the houfe whence my lord removed, fell
and broke his thigh, and being afterwards brought into that houfe, was laid in the armed
(1 air, where his wound was drefled, which ar 1 'p''iiied the vifion. I heard this in-
ftance from feveral bandi nd had it fince confin. i ' . "v lord h' ' 'f.

A man in the parifh of St. Mary's in the '.hi; / .' ' . ..tcrnefs in Okie, called Lach-
lln, lay fick for the ipace of fome months, decayiiig daily, iiifomuch that all his relations
and acquaintance dcfpaired of his recovery. (3ne of the parifhioners, called ArchibaKl
Mack-Donald, being reputed famous for his fkill in foretelling things tocomeby the fecond
fight, afferted pofitivtly that the fick man would never die in the houfe where he then
liy. This being thought very improbable, all the neighbours condemned Archibald as
> iooliib f.rophet : upon which, he paiTionately affirnaed, that if ever that fick man dies

lyi aitt

md a coi\iid-
, ifoccufion

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 6yi)

in tiic houfe wlicre he now lies, I (hall from henceforth renounce my part of heaven ;
adding wirhal, the fick man vviis to be carried r.live out of tho hoiilc in which h? then
lay, but til, It ho would never return to it alive : and tlien he named the perfons that
ftjo ,kl r-Arry out th ■ ("ick nun alive. The man having Uved nic weeks longer than his
friends imagined, and proving uncafy and troii^ilcromc to all the family ; they conlldcr-
ei! 'hat Arolnl '1 had reafnn for his p,rcii;;vtory alT^rikn, and llierefore they rcfolved
to cany him to a houfi' j >inin}; lo that in whidi he then lay : but the poor man would
by no means give his ccnient to he moved front a place where he behoved he HioulJ
n vcrdic; ( much did he re'y on t' > words oi Archibald, of whofe fliill he had feeii
many dtmond rations. Hut at lall liis triinds being fatiguei! dav nnd night with the
fick man's uneafmefs, they carried him againll his iucliiiatio, anther little houfe,

which was only feparatcd by wn entry frvjm that in which he U\ md ih' r feet were
fcarce within the threfliold, when the l^k inaa gave uj) the ghoft ; md it was remark-
able that the two ncighlviurs, which Archibald named would carry im out, were ac-
tually the perfons that did lb. At th- time of the prediclioi,, A chibal 'aw him carried
out as above, and when he was widiin tlic door of the other h; uie, u: fiuv iiim all
vhite, and the fliroud beint^ about him, orcadoned his ronhdenc is above mention d.
Tills is matter of fai:>, which Mr. Daniel Nicholfon minli' • of th
crablc number of the pariihioncrs, are able to vouch for, ul read
requires.

The fame Archibald Mack-Dorald happened to be in the villi;
night, and before l\ipper told liie 1",'. lily, that he hadjuft thcnfeer
he ever faw in his lilc; to wit, a maa with an ugly long cap, ab^nr
but that the (Irangell of all, was , little kind of a harp which
llrings only, and that it had two har 's horns Hxed in the front ol <-■
this odd vifion, fell a laughing at Ari ibald, telling him that he was i
not his wits about him ; fince he prei :uied to fee a thing that had i
not fo much as heard of in any part of r!.c world. All this could nor
opinion, who told them that they nuill > xcufe him, if he lughed at iii
complilhment of the vifion. Archibald ■eturncd to his ow i houfe, and
four days after, a man with the cap, hani 5ic. came to the ?ioufe, and t!
horns, and cap anfwered the defcription > ■ them at firfl view : he (liook
he played, for he had two bells fixed to lia cap. This harper was a y.
made himfelf a buftbon for his bread, an 1 was never before icen in tholi
the time of the predidion, he was in the i V' of Barray, which is above tw
dillantfrom that part of Skie. Thisftory s vouched by Mr. Daniel Martin, uad all his
family, and fuch as were then prefent, and live in the village where this hap] acd.

Mr. Daniel Nicholfon miniiter of St. Ma -y's in Skie, the parifh in which Archibald
Mack-Donald lived, told me, that one Sunt y after fermon at the chapel Uge, he took
occafion to inquire of Archibald, if h ■ ftill -etained that unhappy faculty of feeing the
fecond fight, and he wifhcd him to lay it a Je, if poiliblc ; for, faid he, it is no true

'charattcr of a good man. Archibald was lighly difpleafed, and anfwered, that he
hoped he was no more unhappy than his neig .hours, for feeing what they could not per-
ceive ; adding, I had, fays he, as fcrious thoughts as my neighbours, in lime of hearing
a fermon to day, and even then I faw a corpfe laid on the ground clofe to the pulpit,
and I allure you it will be accompliflied fiiortly, for it was in the day-time. Mr.
Nicholfon and feveral parilhioners then prt nt, endeavoured to difl'uadc Archibald
from this difcourfe; but he (till aflerted that it would quickly come to pafs, and that
itU his oihi.r j rcditUons of this kind had ever been accompliflied. There was none in

" the

Ki.o.kow one

'Irangeft thing

ving his head :

had. with four

All that heard

Taming, or had

"ing, and was

; Archibald's

I 1 aftt r the ac-

•thin three or

narp, firings,

head when'

ir man, and

:inrts ; for at

eagues

•li

i'
r!

68o

martin's description of yhk

the parifti then fick, and few are buried at tlut little chapel, nay fonn imes not one in a
year is buried there; yet when Mr. Nicholfon returned to preach in the faid chapel,
two or three weeks after, ho found one l^urieJ in the very fpot nametl hy Archibald.
This ftory is vouched by Mr. Nicholfon, and feveral of the parilhioners Hill living.

Mr. Daniel Nicholfon above-mentioned, being a widower at the age of forty-four,
this Archibald faw in a vifion a young gentlewoman in a good drefs frequently ftanJing
at Mr. Nicholfon's right hand, and this he often told the parifliioncrs pofitively ; and
gave an account of her complexion, ftature, habit, and that (he would in time be Mr.
Nicholfon's wife : this being told the minillcr by feveral of them, he defired them to
have no regard to what that foolifli dreamer had faid ; for, faid he, it is twenty to
one if ever I marry again. Archibald happened to fee Mr. Nicholfon foon after this
flighting expreflion, however he perfifted ttill in his opinion, and faid confidently that
Mr. Nicholfon would certainly marry, and that the woman would in all points make
up the character he gave of her, for he faw her as often as he faw Mr. Nicholfon. This
flory was told me above a year before the accomplifhment of it ; and Mr. Nicholfon,
fome two or three years after Archibald's predidion, went to the fynod in Boot, where
he had the fird opportunity of feeing one Mrs. Morifon, and from that moment fancied
her, and afterwards married her. She was no fooner feen in the ifle of Skie, than the na-
tives, who had never feen her before, were fatisfied that flie did completely anfwer the
charadler given of her, &c. by Archibald.

One who had been accuftomed to fee the fecond-fight in the ifle of E;Tfr, which lies
about three or four leagues to the fouth-wefl part of the ifle of Skie, told his neighbours
that he had frequently Teen an apparition of a man in a rod coat lined with blue, and
having on his head a llrange fort of blue cap, with a very high cock on the fore part
of it, and that the man who there appeared was killing a comely maid in the village
where the feer dwelt ; and therefore declared that a man in fuch a drefs would certainly
debauch or marry fuch a young woman. This unufual vifion did much expofe the feer,
for alt the inhabitants treated him as a fool, though he had on feveral other occafions fore-
told things that afterwards were accompliflied ; this they thought one of the moll un-
likely things to be accomplilhed that could have entered into any man's head. This
(lory was then difcourfed of in the ifle of Skie, and all that heard it laughed at it ; it
being a rarity to fee any foreigner in Egg, and the young woman had no thoughts of
going any where elfe. This (lory was told me at Edinburgh by Normand Mack-Leod of
Graban, in September t6S8, he being jull then come from the ifle of Skie; and
there were prcfent the Laird of Mack-Li'od, and Mr. Alexander Mack-Leod advocate,
and others.

About a year and a half after the late Revolution, Major Fergufon, now colonel of
one of Her Majofly's regiments of foot, was then lent by the government with fix hun-
dred men, and fome frigates, to reduce the illanders that had appeared for K. J. and
perhaps the fmall ifle of Egg had never been regarded, though fome of the inhabitants
had been at the battle of Killicranky, but by a mere accident, which determined Major
Fergufon to go to the ifle of Egg, which was tliis : a boat's crew of the ifle of Egg hap-
pened to be in the ifle of Skie, and killed one of Major Kerguibn's foldiers there : upon
notice of which the M jor diretlcd his courle to the ifle of Eu;g, where he was fufticiently
reveriged of the natives ; and at the fame time, the maid above mentioned being very
handfome, was then forcibly carried on board one of the vcflcls, by fome of the foldiers,
whore (he was kept alio vc twrnty- four hours, and ravifhed, and brutifldy robbed at the
fame time of her fine head of hair : (he is lince married in the ifle, and in good reputa-
tion; her misfortune being pitied, and not reckoned hcrcrine.

Sir

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

681

Sir Normand Mack-Leod, who has his refiilence in the ifle of Berncra, which lies be-
tween the iflcof North-Vifl: and Harries, went to the Ifleof S'kie about bufniefs, without
appointing any time for his return ; his fervants in his abfencc, being all together in the
large hall at night, one of thcin who had been accuflonieJ to iVe the fecond-fight, told
the reft they mull remove, tor they would have abundance of other company in the
hall that night. One of his fellow-fervants anfwered, that ther,' was very little appear-
ance of that, and if he had feen any vilion of conipany, it was not like to be accom-
plifljcd this night : but the fecr infilled upon it, that it was. 'I'hey ccmtinued to argue
the improbability of it, becaufeof the darknel's of the night, and the danger of coming
through the rocks that lie round the ille : but within an hour after, oneofSirNor-
mand's men came to the houfe, bidding them provide lights, kc. for his mailer had
newly landed; and thus the prediclion was immediately accomplilhcd.

Sir Normand hearing of it, called for the feer, and examined him about it ; h. n-
fwered, that he had fecn the fpirit called Browny, in human fliapc, come feveral t ■ s,
and make a fliew of carrying an old woman that fat by the fire to the door ; and it lafl
feemcd to carry her out by neck and heels, which made him laugh heartily, and gave
occafion to the reft to conclude he was mad, to laugh lb without reafon. This iaftanct
was told me by Sir Normand himfelf.

Four men from the iile of Skie and Harries having gone to Barbadoes, (laid there
for fourteen years; and though they were wont to fee the fecond fight in their native
country, they never faw it in Barbadoes : but, upon their return to England, the firft
night after their landing they faw the fecond-fight, as it was told me by feveral of their
acquaintance.

John Morrifon, who lives in Bernera of Harries, wears the plant called Fuga Damo'
fiiirii, fewed in the neck of his coat, to prevent his feeing of vifions, and fays he never
faw any fince he firll carried that plant about him. He fuffered me to feel the plant
in the neck of his coat, but would by no means let mc open the feam, though I ofl'ered
him a reward to let mc do it.

A fpirit, by the country peole called Browny, was frequently fecn in all the moft
confiderable families in the ifles and north of Scotland, in the fliape of a tall man ; but
within thefe twenty or thirty years pall he is feen but rarely.

There were fpirits alfo that appeared in the fliape of women, horfes, fwine, cats, and
fome like fiery balls, which would follow men in the fields; but there has been but few
inflances of thefe fir forty years pad.

Thefe fpirits ufed alfo to form founds in the air refembling thofe of a harp, pipe,
crowing of a cock, and of the grinding of querns ; and fometimes they have heard voices
in the air by nigjit finging Irifli longs : the words of which fongs fome of my acquain-
tance (till retain. One of them rel'embled the voice of a woman who had died fome t'me
before, and the fong related to her Hate in the other world. Thele accounts I had from
perfons of as great integrity as any are in the world.

J brkf Account of the Advantiigcs the Ifles afford by Sea and Land, and particularly for

a lijh'uig Trade.

THE North-wefl Ifles are of all other mod capable of improvement by fea and land ;
yet, by reafon of their diflance from trading towns, and becaufe of their langua e, which
is Irifli, the inhabitants have never had any opportunity to trade at homo or abroad, n- to
acquire mechanical arts, and other fcicnces : fo that they are ilill left to acl by the force

VOL. III. 4 s of

,!j

^^i

■ii;

68s

martin's descmttion of the

of their natural genius, ainl wliat they could learn by obfcrvation. Tiicy have not yrf
arrived to a competent kncrwJcdgc in agriculture, for which caufc many trails of rich
ground licncgleded, or at IcaU but meanly improved, in proportion to what they might
be. This is the more to be regretted, bccaufe the people arc as capable to acquire arts or
fcicnccs as any other in Europe. If two or more perfons ikilled in agriculture were feiit
from the Lowlands to each parilh in the ifles, they would foon enable the natives to furnilh
thcmfelvcs with fuch plenty of corn as would maintain all tiieir poor and idle people;
many of which for want of fubfiftcnce at home, are forced to leek their livelihood in
foreign countries, to the great lofs, as well as difhonour of the nation. This would
enable them alfo to furnilh the oppofite barren parts of the continent with bread ; and
io much the more, tliat in plentiful years they afford them good quantities of corn in
this infant ft;ue of their agriculture. They have many large parcels of ground never
yet manured, which, if cultivated, would maintain double the number of the prefent in-
habitants, and incrcafe and preferve their cattle ; many of which, for want of hay or
draw die in the winter and fpring : fo that I have known particular perfons lofe above
one hundred cows at a time, merely by want of fodder.

This is fo much tiic more inexcufable, bceaufe the ground in the Wcftcrn Ifles is
naturally richer in many refpeds than in many other parts of the continent j as appears
from fevcral inftances, particularly in Skie, and the oppofite Weftern Ifles, in which
there are many valleys, &c. capable of good improvement, and of which divers experi-
ments have been already made ; and befides, moll of thofe places have the convenience
of frcfli-watcr lakes and rivers, as well as of the fea, near at hand, to furnifh the inhabi-
tants with fifli of many forts, and a/ga mari/iu for manuring the ground.

In many places the foil is proper for wheat ; and that their grafs is good, is evident
from the great product of their cattle : fo that if the natives were taught and encou-
raged to take pains to improve their corn and hay, to plant, inclofe, and manure their
ground, drain lakes, fow wheat and peafe, and plant orchards and kitchen-gardens,
&c. they might have as great plenty of all things for the fuftenance of mankind, as any
other people in Europe.

I have known a hundred families, of four or five perfons a-piece at leafl, maintained
there upon little farms, for which they paid not above five fliillings (lerling, one fhecp,
and fome pecks of corn per ann. each ; which is enough to fliew, that by a better
improvement, that country would maintain many more inhabitants than now live ia
the ifles.

If any man be difpofed to live a folitary retired life, and to withdraw from the noife
of the world, he may have a place of retreat there in a fmall ifland, or in the corner of a
large one, where he may enjoy himfelf, and live at a very cheap rate.

If any family, reduced to low circumftances, had a mind to retire to any of thefe iflc;?,
there is no part of the known world where they may have the produfts of fea and land
cheaper, live more fecurely, or among a more tradable and mild people. And that
the country in ;'encral is healthful, appears from the good Hate of health enjoyed by the
inhabitants.

I fliall not offer to afllrt that there are mines of gold or fdver in the Weftern Ifle?,
from any refemblnnce they may bear to o»her parts that afford mines, but the natives
atTirm that gold dull; has been found at Griminis on the weftern coaft of tlie ifle of
North-Vift, and at Copveaul in Harries ; in which, as well as in other parts of the ifles,
the teeth of the fiiccp which feed there are dyed yellow.

Tliere

WESTERN ISLAKDS OF SCOTLAND. 683

There is a good lead mine, having a mixture of filvcr in ir, on the weft end of tlia
ifle of Ila, near Port Efcock ; and Buchanan and others fay, that tlie ille Lifmore aflbrds
lead : and Slait and Strath, on the fouth-weft of Skle, are in flone, ground, grafs, &c.
oxadly the fame with that part of lla, whore there is a lead mine. And il fcarch were
made in the ifles and hills of the oppofilc main, it is not improbable that fome good mines
might be difcovered in i'ome of them.

1 was told by a gentleman of Lochaber, that an Englifhman had found fome gold-duft
in a mountain near the river Lochy, but could never find out the place again after his
return from England. That there have been gold mines in Scotland is clear, from tlie
manufcripts mentioned by Dr. Nichollbn, now Bilhop of Carlifle, in his late Scots
Hill. Library.

The fituation of thefe ifles for promoting trade in general appears advantageous
enough : but more particularly for a trade with Denmark, Sweden, Hamburgh, Hol-
land, Britain, and Ireland. France and Spain feem remote, yet they do not exceed a
week's failing, with a favourable wind.

The general opinion of the advantage that might be reaped from the improvement
of the fifli trade in thefe ifles, prevailed among confidering people in former times to
attempt it,

I'he firft that I know of was by King Charles the Firft, in conjunclion with a com-
pany of merchants j but it mifcarried becaufe of the civil wars, which unhappily broke
out at that time.

The next attempt was by King Charles the Second, who alfo joined with fome mer-
chants ; and this fuccecded well for a time. I am alTured by fuch as faw the fifh
catched by that company, that they were reputed the belt in Europe of their kind, and
accordingly were fold for a greater price ; but this defign was ruined thus : the King
having occafion for money, was advifed to withdraw that which was employed in the
fiflicry ; at which the merchants being difpleafed, and difagreeing likewife among them-
fclves, they alfo withdrew their money : and the attempt has never been renewed fmce
that time.

The fettling a fiflicry in thofe parts would prove of great advantage to the govern-
ment, and be an ctiedual means to advance the revenue, by the culloms on export and
impon, kc.

It would be a nurfcry of ftout and able feamen in a very fliort time, to ferve the go-
vernment on all occafions. The inhabitants of the ifles and oppofite main land being
very prolific already, the country would beyond all peradventure become very populous
in a little time, if a fiflicry were once fettled among them. The inhabitants are not con-
temptible for their number at prefent, nor are they to learn the ufc of the oar, for all
of them are generally very dextrous at it : fo that thofe places need not to be planted
wiih a new colony, but only furnifhed with proper materials, and a few expert hands,
to join with the natives to fet on foot and advance a fifliery.

The people inhabiting the Weftem Ifles of Scotland, may be about forty thoufand,
and many of them want employment j this is a great encouragement both for letting
up other manufaftories and the fiftiing trade among them : befides a great number of
people may be expedted from the oppofite continent of the Highlands, and north ;
which, from a late computation, by one who had an eftimate of their number, from feve-
ral miniftcrs in the country, are reckoned to exceed the number of iflanders above ten .
to one : and it is too well known, that many of them alfo want employment. The ob-
jcilioD, that they fpeak only Irilh, is nothing : many of them underlland Engtilli, in all

4 s 2 the

684

martin's description of the

the confiderable iflands, which are fuflicient to dire£l the reft in catching and curing fifh j
and in a little time the youth would learn Englifli.

The commodioufnefs and fafoty of the numerous bays and harbours in thofe ifles,
fecm as if nature had dofii.^ncd thein for promoting trade : they are likewife furniflicd
with plenty of good water and Itoms for building. The oppofite main land affords
wood of divers forts for that ufe. They have abundance of turf and peat for fuel ;
and of this latter there i^ !uch plenty in many parts, as might fiirnifh falt-pans with fire
all the year round. The fea forces its palfage in fcveral fniall channels through the
land ; fb as it rentiers the defign more eafy and prafticable.

The coaft of each ifle affords many thoufand load of fea ware, which, if preferved,
might be fuccefsfully ufed lor making ^lals, and likewill' kelp for foap.

The generality of the bays afford all forts of fhcll-lifh in great plenty ; as oyfters,
clams, mufcles, lobfters, cockKs, &c. which might be pickleJ, and exported in great
quantities. There are great and fniall whales of divers kinvls to be had round the ifles,
and on the fhore of the oppofite continent; and are frequently feen in narrow bays,
where they may be eafily caught. The great number of rivers both in the illes and
oppofite main land, afford abundance of falmoji, which, if rightly managed, might tura
to a good account.

The ifles afford likewife great quantities of black cattle, which might fervc the traders
both for confumption and export.

Strath in Skie abounds with good marble, which may be had at an eafy rate, and near
the fea.

There is good wool in moft of the ifles, and very cheap ; fome are at the charge
of carrying it on horfeback, about feventy or eighty miles, to the fliires of Murray and
Aberdeen.

There are feveral of the ifles that aflf"ord a great deal of very fine clay ; which, if im-
proved, might turn to a good account for making earthen-ware of all forts.

The moft centrical and convenient places for keeping magazines of cafk, fait, &c.
are thofe mentioned in the refpedive ifles; as one at Loch-Maddy illes, in the ifle of
North- Vift ; a fecond in the ifle of Hermetra, on the coaft of the ifland Harries ; a
third in ifland Glafs, on the coaft of Harries ; and a fourth in Stornvay, in the ifle of
Lewis.

But for fettling a magazine or colony for trade in generJ, and fifliing in particular,
the ifle of Skie is abfolutely the moft centrical, both with regard to the ifles and oppo-
fite main land ; and the moft proper places in this ifle are ifland Ifa in Lochfallart,
and Lochuge, both on the weft fide of Skie ; Loch-Fortrie, and Scowfar on the eaft
fide, and ifland Dierman on the fouth fide: thcfe places abound with all forts of fifli
that are caught in thofe feas ; and they are proper places for a confiderable number of
men to dwell in, and convenient for fettling magazines in them.

There are many bays and harbours that are convenient for building towns in feveral
of the other iflcs, if trade were fettled among the n ; and cod and ling, as well as filh
of lelfer fize, are to be had generally on the coaft of the lefler, as well as of the larger
iflcs. I am not ignorant that foreigners, lailing through the Weftern Ifles have been
tempted, from the fight of fo many wild hills, that feem to be covered all over with
heath, and faced with high rocks, to imagine that the inhabitants, as well as the
places of their refidence, are barbarous; and to this opinion their habit as well as their
language, h-we contributed. 'J'he like is fuppofed by many that live in the fouth of
Scotland, who know no more of the Weftern Ifles than the natives of Italy : but the

lioa

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 685

lion is not fo fierce as he is painted, neither are the people defcribed here fo barbarous
as the world imagines : it is not the habit that makes the monk, nor doth the garb in
fiifliion qualify him that wears it to be virtuous. The inhabitants have humanity, and
ufe flrangers hofpitably and charitably. I could bring feveral inflances of barbarity
and theft committed by ftranger fwimen in the ifles, but there is not one inftance of
any injury offered by the iflanders to any feamen or flrangers. I had a particular
account of feanicn, who not many years ago ftole cattle and (heep in feveral of the
iflcs ; and when they were found on board their vcffjls, the inhabitants were fatisfied
to take their value in money or goods, without any further refentment : though many
feamen, whofe lives were preferved by the natives, have made them very ungratefCll
returns. For the humanity and hofpitable temper of the iflanders to failors, 1 (hall only
give two inflances : C;ipt. Jackfon of Whitehaven, about fixteen years ago, was obliged
to leave his fliip, being leaky, in the bay within ifland Glufs, alias Scalpa, in the ifle of
Harries, with two men to take care of her though loaded with goods : the Ihip was not
within ihree miles of a houfe, and fepanted from the dwelling-places by mountains ;
yet when the Captain returned, about ten or twelve months after, he found his men
and the vcficl fafe.

Capt. Lotch lo:t the Dromedary of London, of fix hundred tons burthen, with all
her rich cargo from the Indies ; of which he might have faved a great deal, had he em-
braced the aflillance which the natives offered him to unlade her : but the Captain's
fhynefs, and fear of being thought rude, hindered a gentleman on the place to employ
about fevenry hands which he had ready to unlade her, and fo the cargo was loll. The
Captain and his men were kindly entertained there by Sir Normand Mack-Leod ; and
though among otht r valuable goods, they had fix boxes of gold duft, there was not the
leaft thing taken from them by the inhabitants. There are fome pedlars from the
fliire of Murray and other parts, who of late have fixed their refidence in the ifle of
Ski'.', and travel through the rcmoteft iflcs without any moleftation ; though fome of
thofe pedhirs fpeak no Irifli. Several barks come yearly from Orkney to the Weflern
Ifles, to fifh for cod and ling : and many from Anilruther in the fliire of Fife, came
formerly to Barray and other ifles to fifli, before the battle of Kilfyth j where moft of
them being cut off, that trade was afterwards neglected.

The magazines and fifliing-boats, left by foreigners in the ifles above mentioned, were
reckoned fccure enough, when one of the natives only was left in charge with them till
the next feafon ; and fo they might be Hill. So that if a company of flrangers from
any part (hould fettle to fifli or trada in thefe ifles, tliere is no place of greater fecurity
in any part of Europe ; for the proprietors are always ready to aflilt and fupport all
ftrangers within their refpeclive jurildicl;ions. A few Dutch families fettled in Stornvay,
in the ide of Lewis, after King Charles the Second's reJioration, but fome cunning mer-
chants found means by the fecretariLS to prevail with the King to fend them away,
though they brought the illanders a grrat deal of money for the produfts of tlieir fea
and land fowl, and taui'.ht ilietn fbnx'thing of the art of fifliing. Had they ftaid, the
iflanders muft cert. .inly have made con (kIl r able progrofs in trade by this time ; for the
fmallidea of fifliing tlu^y had from the Dutch has had fo much effecl, as to make the
people of the little village of Stornvay to txcel all thofe of tiie neighbouring ifles and
continent in the fifhing trade ever fincc that time.

For the better govermnent of thofe ilk's, in c.ile of fetting up a fifliing trade there, it
may perhaps be fnind necelfary to erecl the ifles of Skie, Lewis, Harries, South and
North- Vilt, &c. into a flierivalty, and to build a royal borough in Skie as the Cs^nter,
becaule of the people's great diltance iu remote illes, from the head borough of the

fliire

636

martin's description or the

iliirc of Invorncfs. This would fccm much more necclVary here than thofe of Boot
and Arran, that lie much nearer to Dunbarton, though they be necclVary enough in
thomfelves.

It may likowife deferve the confidcration of the government, whether they flioulJ
not make the ille of Skie a free pert, bccaufe of the great encouragement fuch immu-
nities give to trade ; which always iiVucs in the welfare of the public, and adds flrength
and reputation to the government. Since t]\efe liles are capable of the improvements
above-mentioned, it is a jijrcat lofs to the nation they fliould be thus neglected. This
is the general opinion of foreigners as well as of our own countrymen, who know them ;
but I leave the further enquiry to fuch as (liall be dilpofed to attempt a trade there, with
the concurrence of the government. Scotland has men and money enough to fet up
a filhcry ; fo that there feems to be nothing wanting towards it, but the encouragement
of thofe in power, to excite the inclination and induftry of the people.

If the Dutch in their publick cdids call their fifliery a golden mine, and at the fame
time affirm that it yields them more profit than the Indies do to Spain ; we have very
great reafon to begin to work upon thofe rich mines, not only in the iflcs, but on all our
coaft in general. We have multitudes of hands'to be employed at a very eafy rate ;
we have a healthful climate, and our fifli, cfpecially the herring, come to our coafl in
April or May, and in the bay in prodigious (lioals in July or Auguft. 1 have feen com-
plaints from Loch-Ellbrt in Skie, that all the (hips there were loaded, and that the bar-
rel of herring might be had there for four-pence, but there were no buyers.

I have known the herring- filhing to continue in fome bays from September till the
end of January ; and wherever they are, all other fifli follow them, and whales and feals
in particular : for the larger fifli of all kinds feed upon herring.

A brief Def caption of the IJlcs of Orkney and Sbetlund, l^c.

THIsifles of Orkney lie to the north of Scotland, having the main Caledonian Ocean,
which contains the Hebrides on the weft, and the German Ocean on the eaft, and the
fca towards the north feparates them from the ifles of Siietland. Pidland Firth on the
fouth, which is twelve miles broad, reathes to Dungifbie-head, the moft northern point
of the main land of Scotland.

Authors diiVcr as to the origin of the name ; the Englifh call it Orkney, from Erick,
one of the firft Pidtifli Princes that pofl'cffed them : and it is obferved, that Pid or
Fight in the Teutonick language fgnifies a fighter. The Irifh call them Arkive, from
the firft planter ; and Latin authors call them Orcades. They lie in the northern tem-
perate zone, and thirteenth climate ; the longitude is between twenty-two degrees,
and eleven minutes, and latitude fifty-nine degrees, two minutes : the compafs varies
here eight degrees ; the longed day is about eighteen hours. The air is temperately
cold, and the night fo clear, that in the middle of June one may fee to read all night
long ; and the days in winter are by confequence very Ihort. Their winters here are
commonly more fubjed to rain than fnow, for the fea-air diffolves the latter. The
winds are often very boifterous in this country.

The fea ebbs and flows here as in other parts, except in a few founds, and about
fome promontories j which alter the courfe of the tides, and make them very impetu-
ous.

The ifles of Orkney are reckoned twenty-fix in number ; the leflTer ifles, called Holms,
are not inhabited, but fit for palturage : moft of their names end in a or ey^ that in the
Teutonick language fignifics water, with which they are all furrounded.

The

VESTERN ISLANDS 01- SCOTLAND. 6S'/

Tlie main land, called by the ancients Pomona, is about twenty-four lonp, and in the
middle of it, on the fouth fide, lirs the only town in Orkney, called Kirkwall, which i.t
about three quarters of a mile in lengtii ; the Danes called it Cracoviaca. '1 here has
been two fine edifices in it, one of them called the King's Palace, which is fuppoicd to
have been built by one of the bilhops of Orkney, becaufe in the wall there is a bifliop'a
mitre and arms engraven, and the bilhops anciently had their rcridenceiu it.

The palace now called the Bilhop's, was built by Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney,
^uno 1606.

There is a ftately church in this town, having a llecple erefted on four large pillars
in the middle of it ; there are fourteen pillars on each fidC the churcli : it is called by
the name of St. Magnus's Church, being founded, as the inhabitants fay, by Magnus
King of Norway ; whom they believe tobeinten-ed there. The feat of Juilice for tliefe
ides is kept here; the fleward, flieriif, and commiHiiry, do each of theni keep their re-
fpeflivc courts in this place. It hath a public fchool for teaching of grammar learning,
endowed with a competent falary.

This town was ereded into a royal borough when the Danes polTeired it, and their
charter was afterwards confirmed to them by King James the Third, /Jimo i486. They
have from that charter a power to hold Borough-Courts, to imprifon, to arrcft, to
make bye-laws, to chufe their own magiitralcs yearly, to have two weekly markets ;
and they havealfo power of life and death, and of fending coinmiflioners to Parliament,
and all other privileges granted to royal boroughs. This charter was dated at Edin-
burgh the lafl day of March, i486, and it was fince ratified by King James the V. and
King Charles the II. The town is governed by a provofl, four baililfe, and a common-
council.

On the weft end of the main is the King's palace formerly inentioned, built by Robert
Stewart Earl of Orkney, about the year 1574. Several rooms in it have been curioufly
painted with fcripture ftories, as the flood of Noah, Chrift's riding to Jerufalem, &c.
and each figure has the fcripture by it, that it refers to. Above the arms within there
is this lofty infcription, Sicfi/it, (//, is' erit. This iOand is fruitful in corn and grafs,
and has feveral good harbours ; one of them at Kirkwall, a fecond at the bay of Ker-
fton village, near the weft end of the iflc, well fccurcd againft wind and weather ; the
third is at Deer-Sound, and reckoned a very good harbour ; the fourth is at Graham-
fl)all, towards the cart fide of the ille, but in failing to and from the eaft fide, feamen
would do well to fail betwixt Lambholm and the main land, and not between Lamb-
holm and Burray, which is fliallow.

On the eaft of the main land lies the fmall ifle Copinfha, fruitful in corn and grafs ;
it is diftinguiflied by fea-faring men for its confpicuoufneis at a great diftance. 1 0 the
north end of it lies the Ilolm, called the Horfe of Copinfha. Over againft Kerfton
Bay lie the ifles of Hoy and Waes, which make but one iflc, about twelve miles ia
length, and mountainous. In this ifland is the hill of Hoy, which is reckoned the high-
eft in Orkney.

The iflc of South-Ronalfliaw lies to the eaft of Waes, it is five miles in length, and
fruitful in corn ; Burray in the fouth end is the ferry to Duncanfbay in Caithnefs. \
little fuither to the fouth lies Swinnaifle, remarkable only for a part of Pightland-Firth
lying to the weft of it, called the Wells of Swinna : they are two whirl-pools in the kdy
which run about with fuch violence, that any velTcl or boat coming within their reach,,
go always round until they fink. Thefe wells are dangerous only when there is a dead
calm ; for if a boat be under fail with any wind, it is eaiy to go over them. If any boat
be forced into thcfe wells by the violence of the tide, the boat- men eaft a barrel or aa.

oac

■1

!, 1

■■'■ ''.

688

MARTIN S DESCRIPTION OF THE

oar into the wells ; and while it is fwallowing It up, the fca continues calm, and gives
the boat an opportunity to pals ovt-T.

To the north ot the main lies tlu'ine of Shajjinflia, five miles in length, and has an
harbour at Elwick on thcfouth. Further to the north lie theillesof Stroiif;!, five niiks
in lergth, and Ella which is four miles ; Ronfa lies to the north-well, and is (ix miles
long. The ifle Sanda lies north, twelve miles in length, and is reckoned the mo, I fruit-
lul and beautiful of all the Oreades.

The ifles of Orkney in general are fruitful in corn and cattle, and abound with (lore
of rabbits.

The fliecp are very fruitful here, many of them have two, fonie three, and others
four lambs at a time ; they often die with a difcafe called the Sheep-dcail, which is oc-
cafioned by httle animals about half an inch long, that are engender., d in their liver.

The horles are of a very fmall fize, but hardy, and expofed to the rigour of the fea-
fon. during the winter and fpring : the grafs being then fcarce, they are fed with fea-
waro.

The fields every where abound with variety of plants and roots, ami tlie latter arepe-
i.icrally very large ; the common people drcfs their leather with the roots of Tonnentil,
nllcad of bark.

The main land is fumiflied with abundance of good marie, whieh is ufed fuccefsfully
by the hull^andman for manuring the ground.

The inhabitants fay there are mines of lilvcr, tin and lead in the main land, South-
Ronalfliaw, btronfa, Sanda, and Hoy. Some veins of marble are to be feen at Buck-
quoy, and Swinna. 'Ihere are no trees in thele id.s, rxcipt in gardens, and thole bear
no truit. Their common fuel is peat and turf, of which there is iuch plenty, as to fur-
niili a falt-pan with fuel. A fouiIi-i-aU and north welt moon caufe high water here.

The Finland fifhcrmen have been frequently feen on the coall of this ille, particularly
In the year i68 . The people on the coail law one of them in his little boat, and en-
deavoured to take him, but could not come at him, he retired fo fpeedily. They fay
the fifii retire from the coaft, when they lee thefe men come to it.

One of the bouts, lent from Orkney to Edinburgh, is to be feen in the Phyficians
Hall, with the oar he makes ufe of, and the dart with which he kills his fifli.

There is no venomous creature in this country. The inhabitants fay there is a fnail
there, which has a bright (tone growing in it. '1 here is abundance of (liell fifli here, as
oyfters, inulci< s, crabs, cockles, ^c. ot this latter they make much fine lime. The
rocks on the fliore afl'ord plenty ot fea ware, as niga-nuirina^ StC.

'Ihe fea abounds with variety of filh, but clpeci.dly herring, which are much ne-
glcittd fiuce the battle of Kill'yih, at wliich time, the titliermen from Fife were ahnoll
all killed there.

'1 he cliirt [uoilud of Orkney that is yearly exported from thence, is corn, fifh, hides,
tallow, butter, Ikinsot foals, ottcr-fkhis, lamb tkins, rabbit-lkins, lUifts, white fait, wool,
pens, eiovvn, leathers, h;lm^, 5cc.

Some l| rinicc ti, and ambergreafe, as alfo the os capier are found on the fliore of
feveral (■! tliole illes.

This c./untry affords plenty of lea and land fowl, as geefe, ihicks. Solan geefe, fwans,
lyres, and eagles, which are fo Itrong as to carry away children. 1 here is alfo the
cleck-goofe ; the (hells in which this fowl is laid to he produced, are found in feveral
ifles flicking to trees by the bill ; of this kind 1 have feen many : the fowl was covered

* by

WPSTnUN ISI.ANDS OF SCOTLAND.

689

hv a flu'll, and the head Ituck to the tree by the hill, but I never faw any of them with
life ill thfiu upon the tive ; but tl\c nx'vcs told nie, tlial they had oblerved them to
move wiiii the lie;U ot tiic luii.

The Pids are believed to havi; been tnc firfl inhabitants of thefe iflcs, and there aro
houfes of a round form in fevt nil parts of the country, c.dled by the name of i'itls
houl'es; and for the fame reafon, the Firth is called Pij^htl uid orl'entland lutli. Our
hidorians call thefe hhv- the ancient kinf^dom of the Picts, Jiuchauun gives an account
of one Helus Kine; of Orkiuy, who bviufi; dcfeuteil by Kiiij; F,wen the fecond of Sect-
land, became defperate, and killed himf.lf. Tiie e(1i;ries of this Belus is engraven on a
ftone in the church of liirlii on the main land. Boethius makes mention of another of
their kings, allied B.ihnus, and by others Gethus, who Ixin^ vanquilhed by tllaudius
C}i:far, was by him alterwards, toj^'tlu r with his wife and lamily, carried captive tJ
Rome, and there led in triumph, /fniw C/j/i/fi 4:.

The Picks poilelTed Orkney until the reij^n of Kenneth the fecond of Scotland, who
fnbdued the countiy, and annesred it to his crown. From that time Oikney was peace-
ably poflTeir-d by the Scots, until about the year 1099, that Donald Uane intending to
fecure the kingdom to himfclf, proinifed both thefe and the Weltern Ifles to Magnus
King of Norway, upon condition, that he (houlil fupport him with a competent force :
. which he performed ; and by this means became mailer of thefe ifles, until the reign of
Alexander the third, who by his vali>ur expelled the Danes. The Kings of Denmark
did afterwards refign their title for a funi of money, and this refignatiou was ratified
under the great leal of Denmark, at the marriage of King James the fixth of Scotland,
with Anne Princefs of Denmark.

Orkney has been from time to time a title of honour to feveral perfons of great qua-
lity : Henry and William Sinclairs were called Princes of Orkney ; and Rothuel Hep.
burn was made Duke of Orkney : Lord George Hamilton (brother to the prefent Duke
of Hamilton) was by the late King William created Earl of Orkney. The Earl of
Morton had a mortgage of Orkney and Zetland from King Charles the firft, which
was fince reduced by a decree of the Lords of SeiTion, obtained at the infbnce of the
King's advocate againU the carl ; and this decree was afterward ratified by atl of par-
liament, and the Earldom of Orkney, and LonHliip of Zetland, have fmce that time
been crecl:ed into a ffewartry. The reafon, on which the decree was founded, is faid to
have been that the ]",arl's deputy feized upon fome cheits of gold found in the rich Am.
ilerdam Ihip, called the Carlm.lan, that w.is loil in Zetland 1664.

There are feveral gentlemen of ellates in Orkney but the Oueen is the principal pro-
prietor ; and one half of the whole belongs to the crown, belides the late acceiiion of
the bilhop's rents, which is about oooo merks Scots per Jlnnrim. There is a yearly
roup of Orknev rents, and he that offers hi^'hefl: is preferred to be the King's (teward
for the time; and as fuch, he is principal jud.rc of the country. Hut this precarious
L'afe is a public lilb to the inhabitants, el;:ii'clal!y the poorer foit, who complain tha::
they would be allowed to pay money for their corn and meal in time of fcarcity ; but
that the llcwanls carried it otFto other parts, and negletf ed the intereilofthe couatrv.
'J'he interdl; of tlie n"own fullers likewile by this means, for much of the crown I uids
lie walie : whereas it there were a conllant ilcwaid, it might be much better managed,
both ibr the crown and the inhabitants,

'I'here is a tenure ot land in Orkney, diilering from any other in the kingdom, and
this they call IJdal Right, from Ulaus King of Is'^orway, who after taking pofleflion of
thofe iflands, gave a right to the inhabitants, on condition of paying the third to

vol,. III. 4 T 1 imfelf J

£90 martin's DFSCRtPIION 01' TirE

himfolf; and tliis riglit the inhabitants haJ rucci;llivi.ly, without any cliai'tor. All th;

lanJs ot" Orkney aro Udul lands, King's lands, or icuud land. .

'I hey diflcr in their mcafures from otln.r parts of Scothuui, for they do not ufc
the peck or lirlet, but weigh their corns in Pil'inorcs, or Pundlers; the lead qiiaiuity
they call a Mcrk, which is eighteen ounces, and twenty-four make a Leilpound, or
Settcn, which is the fame with the Danes that a (lone weight is with us.

The ancient State of the Church of Orkney.

TIIK churches of Orkney and Zetland iflis were forniorly under the government of
a bilhop ; the catludral church was St. Magnus in Kirkwall. 'J'here are thirty-one
churchi..s, and about one hundred chapels in the country, and the whole make uj) about
cightetn pariflies.

This diocefe had levcral great dignities and privileges for a long time, but by the fuc-
codion and change of many mad.'rs they were lelfened. Dr. Robert Keid, their bifliop,
made an eredion of feven dignities, viz. i. A provort, to whom, under the bifliop, the
government of the canons, hv., did belong; he had allotted to him the prebendary of
Holy 'I'rinity, and the vicarage of Si)uth Konallhaw. 2. Anarch-deacon. 3. A pre-
centor, who had the prebendary of Ophir, and vicaragv of Stenuis. 4. A chancellor,
who was to be learned in both laws } to him was giv: n (he preb.iulary of St. Mary in
Sanda, and the vicarage of Sanda. 5. A treafurer, wiio was to keep the trealure of
the church, and facred veflments, &c. he was reclor ol St, Nicholas in Stronfa. 6. A
fub-dean, who w;>s paribn of Hoy, ;?cc. 7. A fub-chanttr, who was bound to play on
the organs each Lord's Day, and feftivals ; he was pr(l)cndary of St. Colme. IL'
eredcd feven othiT canonries and probends; to which dignities he alligned, befides
their churth(;s, the rents of the parfonagcs of St. C'dme in Waes, and Iloly-C.rofs in
Wcllra, as alio the vicarages of the pariih churches of Sand, Wick, and Stromnels.
lie erected, Ixflides thele, thirteen chapl.vns; every one of which was to have twenty-
four mtils of corn, and ten merks of ino'^cy for their yearly falary -, befides their daily
diltributions, which were to be railed from the rents of the vicarage of the cathedral
church, and from the foundation of Thomas Bilhop of Orkney, and the twelve pounds
ratified by King James the Third, and James the I'ourth of Scotland. To thefe he add-
ed a Sacril^, and lix boys to bear tapers. The charter of the erecUon ib dated at Kirk-
wall, Otlober 28, Anno 1554.

This was the ftate of the church under popery. Some time after the reform ition,
Bilhop Law being made Bifliop of Orkney, and the earldom united to the crown (by
the forfeiture and death of Patrick Stewart Larl of Orkney,) he with the confent of his
chapter made a contrad with King James the Sixth, in which they rcfign all their ec-
clefiallical lands to the crown ; and the king gives back to the bilhop feveral lands in
Orkney, as Horn, Orphir, &c. and His Majefly gave alfo the Commiflariot of Orkney to
the bilhop and his fuccelfors ; and then a competent number of perfons for a chapter
were agreed on. This contraft was made Anno 1614.

The ancient Monuments and Curiofitia in thefe IJlanJs are asfjlloio :

IN the ifle of Hoy, there is the Dwarfie-flone between two hills, it is about thirty-
four feet long, and about fix teen feet broad ; it is made hollow by human induflry : it
has a finall fquare «ntry looking to the call, about two feet high, and has a ftone pro-
portionable

WrSTERK I NDS 0» f )T1 ANH 6(ft

poiiionabli? at two feet diflancc 1" lure thv t-ntry. At one oi ;he mdi W^iil this 11 Jtte
ilu'n.' is cut out ;i bed auJ pillow, capablt; of two perrons lie in ; a he other op-
pofite cm! there is a void rpaoeeut out releiiihling a bed j .111 J>ove boti h-le iherc is
a large hole, whiili is iiippoled was a vent for I'lnoke. The cutninon traJition is, that a
gi;im and iiis wife iiKide this iheir place of retreat.

About a mile to the well of the main laud at Skeal-houfe, there is in the top of high
rocks many (l(nus dilpofed like a ilrcet, about a quarter of a mile in length, and between
twenty and thirty feet broad. Tluy difler in figure and magnitude, are of a red colour ;
fome refendde a heart, fome a crown, leg, flioe, laft, weaver's fliuttle, &c.

On the weft and eaft fide of LochStenuis, on the main land, there are two circles of
large (lone eredei.1 in a ditch ; the larger, which is round on the north-weft fide, is a
hundred paces diameter, and fome of the Hones are twenty feet high, and above four in
breadth ; they are not all of a height, nor placed at an equal diftance, and many of
them are fallen down on the ground.

i\bout a little diftance further, there is a femi-circle of larger ftones than thofemon-
tionei above. There arc two green mounts, at the eaft and weft fide of the circle,
which are fuppofcd to be artificial ; and fibule of filver were found in them fome time
ago, which on one (ide refembled a hoil'e's-lhoe, more than any thing clfe.

The hills and circles are believed to have been places defigned to offer facrlfice in
time of Pagan idolatry ; and lor tliis realbn the people called them the ancient temples
of the Gods, as we may find by Boetliius in the life of Manius. Sc^veral of the inhabi-
tants have a tradition, that the lun was worlhipped in the larger, and the moon in the
lefl'er circle.

In the chapel of Clet, in the ifle of Sanda, there is a grave of nineteen feet in length ;
fome who had the curiofity to open it, found only a piece of a man's backbone in it, big-
ger than that of a horfe. The minillor of the place had the curiofity to keep the bone
by him for fome time. The inhabitants have a tradition of a giant there, whofe ftature
was ^fuch, that he could reach his hand as high as the top of the chapel. There have
been large bones found lately in Weftra, and one of the natives who died not long ago,
was for his llature diftinguiflied by the title of the Micle, or great Man of Waes.

There are creftcd ftoncs in divers parts, both of the niair, and lefter iiles, which are
believed to have been erected as monuments ot fiich as diftinguiflied themfelves in battle*.

Th' iv have been feveral ftrange inftances of the eft'cds of thunder here ; as that of
burning Kirkwall fteepic by lightning in the year 1670. At Stromnefs a gentleman"
had twelve kinc, fix of which in a Hall were fuddenly killed by thunder, and the other
lix left alive ; and it was remarkable that the thunder did not kill them all as they ftood,
but killed one, and mifted another. Ihis happened in 1680, and is attefted by the.
minifter, and others of the parifti.

There is a ruinous chapel in Papa Weftra, called St. Tredwels, at the door of which
there is a heap of ftones ; which was the fuperftilion of the common people^ who have
fiich a veneration for this chapel above any other, that they never fail, at. their coming
to it, to throv.' a ftone as an offering before the door : and this they reckon an indilpen-
libleduty enjoined by their anceftors.

Lady-Kiik in Soiith-Ronalfliaw, though ruinous, and without a roof, is fo much reve-
renced by the native-', that they chufe rather to repair this old one, than to build
a new church in a v:-: ■:■: convenient place, and at a cheaper rate : inch is the power of
rducatiun, that thefe nvn cannot be cured of thefc fupcrfluous fancies, tranfmitted
to them by th.ir i;;r.oi ant unccilors.

4 T 2

Within

^5* martin's pescription of the

Witlilii thf nnciont fabric of I.ail) -Cluinli tlu'it' is a Uonc of four feet in lenetli, and
two in broadih, t.ipciing at both i nJs : this Hone lias rn};ravcn on it the pnnt of two
feet, concerning whicli the inh.ib;t.\iits have tlie following tradition : that St. Magnus
wantiii;:; a boat to carry him over l'i;j;htlanil Firih to the opjjofite main land of C'.aithnefs,
made ufe of this llone iiilU ad of a lioat, and alierwanls carrieil it to this church, where it
continues ever lince. But others have this more reafonable opinion, that it has been
lifed in lime of Popery for di'Iincpuiits, who were obligetl to ftand barefoot upon it by
way of penance. Several of the vulgar iiiliabiting the Krt". r ilLs obferve the amiiver-
fary of their rofpedive faints. There is one day in harveit on which the vulgar ablhiin
from work, bccaul'o of an ancient and foolifli tradition, tltat it they do their work, the
ridges will bleed.

They have u charm for flopping exceHIve blecdinj^, either in man or heart, whether
the caufe be internal or external; which is performeil by fending the name of the pa-
tient to the channLT, who adds foinc more words to it, and, after repeating thofe worils,
the cure is periornied, tl.ough the charmer bo feveral miles didant from the patient.
'J'hcy have likewife other charms which they ufe frequently at a dillance, and that alfo
with fuccefs.

The inhabitants are well proportioned, and feein to be more fanguinc than they are ;
the poorer fort live much upon fi(h of various kinds, and fometiines without any bread.
The inhabitants in general are fubjed to the fcurvy, iinj^uteil to the fi(h and fait meat,
which is th "ir daily food ; yet feveral of the inhabitants arrive at a great age : a woman
in Kvie brought forth a child in the fixty-thlrd year of her age.

One living ii\ Kerilon lately was one huiuhvd and twelve years old, and w^-nt to fea
at one hundred and ten. A gentleman at Sironfa, about four years a:;o, had a fon at
a hundred and ten years old. One William Muir in Wedra lived a hundieii and forty
years, and died about eighteen years ago. The inhabitants r|)i.'ak the Miiglilh tongut' :
feveral of the vulgar fpeak the Danilh or Norfe language j and many among them retain
the ancient Danilh nanus.

Thofe of Uelirutftion are hofpilable and obli;j,iii';, the vulgar are generally civil and
affable. Both of thiin wear the habit in falhion in the Lowlands, and fume wear a
fea! Ikin for fhors ; which they do not ftw, but only tie them about thtir feet with
flrii'.gs, and fmctiines thongs of leather : they are gi'uerally able and (lout feamen.

The common people are very l.iborious, and undergo great faiigu^.i, and no fmall
hazard in filhing. Ihe illes of Orkney were loruierly liable to freiju. nt incurfions by
the Norwegians, and thofe inliabiting the Wellern Illes of Scotland, 'io prevent which,
each vidage was obliged to iuruilh a large beat well manned to oppole l!ic enenly, and
upon '.heir landing all the inhabitants were to appear armed ; and beacons were fet
on the top of the highefl hills and rocks, to give a general warning on the fight of an
approaching enemy.

About the year 1634, Dr. Graham being then bifliop of Orkney, a young boy called
William Garioch, had lome acres cf land, and fomc cattle, ^'c. left him by his father
deceafed : he being young was krpt by his uncL-, who had a great del:re to csbtain the
lands, &c. belonging to his nephew ; who, being kept fhort, Hole a fetten of barley,
which is about tweniy-eight pound weight, from his uncle; fi;r which he purfued the
youth, who was then eighteen years of age, be lore the Iherilf. The theft being proved,
the young man received fentence of death ; but going up the ladder to be hanged, ho
prayed earnellly thai God would inllict foine vifible judgment on his uncle, who out of
covetinihiels had proeureil his tieath. Tiie uncle happened after this to be walking in
the chuichyaid ol Kiikwall, and as he ftcud upon the young man's ^rave, the bidiop's

dog

WESTTRN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 693

dog run at him all of a fiuKlcn, aiul tore out his throat ; and fo he became a monu-
iiunt of God's wriitli againit luch covetous wn.tch( s. 'I'liis account was given to Mr.
Wallace miiiilltr there, by Icveral that were witnclVcs of the fact.

Schclland.

SCHETLAND lies north cafl from Orkney, between the 6oth and 6i(l degree of
latitude ; the dilhuue between tin li id of S;inda, wliich is the luofi northerly part of
Orkney, and Swinburg-lu .ul, tlie niofl loiitherly point of SclieiianJ, is commonly
reikoned to be tw(.iity or tvcnty-one leagues : the tides running betwixt are al-
ways impetuous, and Iv ■lUiU'; as well in a ralm as when a Irolh gale blows; and tiit:
i created danger it; near the lair Ille, which lies nearer to Scheiland thati Orkney by
our leagues.

J he largeft ifle of Sdu tlanl, by the natives called the main-land, is fixty miles in
length from I'ouih-well to tlie nortIi-e.,ll, and from lixteen to one mile in breadth.
Some call thele ifles Ib'thland, others llogliianil, which in the Node tongue fignifics
high-land ; Schctl;iiul in the f.ime language figiiiries lea land.

This ifle is for the mod part molly, and more cultivateil on the Hiore than in any
ether part ; it is mountainous and covered with heath, w hieh renders it fitter for paf-
turagc than tillago. The inh.ibilants depend upon the Orkney ifles for their corn. TIil:
ground is generally fo boggy, that it makes riding im|)i;idicable, and travelling on foot
■ not very pleafaiU ; there bein^ fcvcr;d parts into which ptopK; Ihik, to the enilaiigcr-
ing their lives, of which there have b en lever.d Lite inllanc>.s. About the fummcr
folllice, they have |o much light all night, that llicy can lee to read by it. 'I'hc fun fets
between ten and eU:veii, uiid rifes between one and two in the morning, but then tlic
day is fo much the fliorter, ami the night longer in the winter. Ihis, together with
the violence of the titles and t iiipclloiis \\w^, tli pi ives the inhabitants of all foreign cor-
rel'poiulence from October tilt April, and often till May; during which fpace, they arc
altogether ftraut'ers to the rell of mankiiul, of whom they hear not the lead news. A
rcmarka!>lc inllancc of this lu'ppcnid after the late Revolution : th.'y had no account
of the I'rince of Orange's laic landing in I''.iigland, coronation, he. until a fifhermau
happened to land in tiiefe ifles in the May following: and he was not believed, but in-
dicted for Iii;;h-trcaron for fpreading Inch news.

The air ot tins ille is cold and piercing;, notwithftanding which, many of the Inha-
bitants arrive at a great age ; of which there arc fcveral remarkable inllr.nces. Bu-
chanan ill his Hilt. lib. i. gives an account of one Laurence, who lived in his time, fonie
of whole cjllspring do dill live in the parilh of Wats; this man, after he arrived at one
hun.lred years oi ago, married a wile, went out a fifliing wlicn he was one lumdred
and forty \vars olil, anil, upon his return, died rather of old age, than of any diltemper.

'1 he inhabitants give an account of Tairville, who arrived at tha agj cf one hundred
and eighty, aiul never ilrank any malt lirink, dillilled waters nor wine. They fay
that his Ion lived longer tlian him, and that his grandchildren lived to a good age, and
fcltlom or never ilrank any llronger lic|uors than milk, water, or bland.

The liifeafe that alllicls the inhabitants here moll is the fcurvy, which they fuppofeis
occalioned by their eating too much falt-fifli. There is a didemper here called badard
fcurvy, which clifcovirs iilllf by the lalling of the hair from the peoples' cye-brows,
antl the falling of their notes, ^c. and as loon as the fymptoms appear, theperfons are
removed to the helds, where little honfes arc built for them on purpolo to prevent in-
fedion. The principal caufc of this didempcr is believed to be want of bread, and

14 feeding

;

694

MARTIN d DESCRIIMION OF TiJR

fecJii\^ on fifli alone, particularly the liver : many poor families arc fomctimes without
bread, i'or tliree, four, or five months togethers. They fay likewife tiiat their drinking
of bland, which is tlu'ir univerfal liquor, and prcfcrved for the winter as part of their
provilions, is antJthcr caufe of this dillcnipor. This drink is made of buttermilk mixed
with watrr; there Iv many of theui who never tafle ale or beer, for their fcarcity
of broad is fiich, that they can fpare no corn for drink : I'o that they have no other
than bland, but what they get from forei^^n vellcls that refort thither every fumnier
to 11 fh.

The ill^'s in general afford a great quantity of fcurvy-graft, which, ufed difcreetly, is
found to be a good remedy againft rliis difeafe. 'l"he jaundice is commonly cured by
drinking the powder of Ihell-fnails among their drink, in the fpace of three or four
day?, rhey iirll; dry, tiun pulvoriz>' tlie fnails ; and it is obfervable, that though this
dull Ihould be kept all the year round, and grow into vermine, it may be dried again,
and pulverized f-r that ulo.

'I he illes ailord abundance of f^'a-fowl, which fcrve the inhabit.mts for part of
tluir food during funnncr and harveit, and the down and feathers bring them great

gai". . ^ . .

'I'he feveral tribes <)t iowl here build and hatch apart, and every tribe keeps clofe
t-ogx?ther, as if it were by CiMilVnt. Some of the lelfer illes are fo crouded with variety
of fea-fow 1, tl\U they darken the air when they Hy in great innnt-.ers. After their coming,
which is connnonlv in I'l'bruary. they lit very dole tutrether for fome time, till they re-
cover the fatigue of their long tlight from their remote quarters; and after thev have
hatched rh.eir young, and lind they are able to ily, they go away together to lonie other
uiiknown p'ace.

The people inhabiting tii.' lefler ill.s have abundance of eggs and fowl, which con-
nibuie to nuiiniain their families during the fummer.

The common people are generally very dextrous in climbing the rocks in quefl: of
thofe eggs and fowl ; but this cx^rcile is attended with very great danger, and fome-
linies provLS latal to thole that venture too far.

The molt remarkable experiment of this lort, is at the ide called the Nofs of Bralfah,
ani! is as follows : the Nols being about fixteen fathom dillant from the fide of the
oppofite main ; t'-e higher and lower rocks have t\*o llakes t'allened in each of them,
and to thel'e there are ropes tied : upon the ropes there is an engine hung, which
fiiey call a cradle ; and in this a man makes his way over from the greater to the lelfer
rocks, where he makes a coniiderable purchafe of eggs and fowl ; but his return being
by an afcent, makes it more dangerous, though thole on the great rock have a rope
tied to the cradle, by which they draw it and the mm fife over for the moft part.

There are lome rocks here computed to be about three hundred fathom high ; and
the way of climbing tliem is, to tie a rope about a man's middle, and let him down
with a baikct, in whicn he brings up his eggs and fowl. The illeof Foula is the moll
dangerous and fatal to the climbers, for many of them perilh in the attempt.

'i'he crows are ver\ numerous in Schetland, and difter in their colour from thofe on
the main land ; for the head, wings, and tail of thofo in Schetland are only black, and
their back, bread, an ! tail of a grey colour. When black crows are feen there at any
time, the inhabitants : y it is a prefage or approaching famine.

There are fine ha- its in thefe illes, and particularly thole of Fair Ifle are reputed
atnong the befl that i-:c to be had any where ; they are oblerved to go fir ft)r their prey,
and particularly for moor-fowl as far as the illes of Orkney, which are about lixteen
leagues from thtnu

S There

WESTERN ISLANDS 01- SCOTLAND.

695

Tlierc are likewife in;iny eagles in and about theH' illes, which are very dcftrudive
to the fheep and lambs.

Tills country produces little horfcs, commonly called Shellies, and they are very
fpriglitly, though the leall of their kind to be feen any where ; they are lower in (hi-
ture than thole of Orkney, and it is common for a man of ordinary ftrength to lift a
Sheltie from the ground; yet this little creature is able to carry double. The bhuk
are eileemed to be the molt hardy, but the pyed ones feldom prove fo good : they live
many times till thirty years of age, and are ht for fervice all the while, 'i'hei'e horibs
are never brought into a houfe, but expofed to the rigour of the feaibn all the year
round ; and when they have no grafs, feed upon fea-ware, which is only to be had at
the tide of ebb.

The ifles of Schetland produce many fliecp, which have two and three Iambs at a
time J they would be much more numerous, did not eagks dt Itroy them : tluy are like-
wife reduced to feed on fea-ware during the frolt and ihow.

The Icfflr I/ks cf Schetland arc as f'Jkvj .•

The ifle Trondra, which lies oppofite to Scalloway town on the weft ; three miles
long, and two broad.

Further to the north-call lies the ifle of Whalfey, about three miles in length and as
many in breadth ; the rats are very numerous here, and do abundance of mifchief by
deploying the corn.

At fome further diftance lie the fmall ifles called Skerries ; there is a church in orte
of them. Thefe iiles and rocks prove often fatal to feamen, l^ut advantageous to the
inhabitants, by the wrecks and goods that the winds and tides drive afhore ; which
often fupply them with I'uul, of which they are altogether deRitute. It was here that
the Carmelan of Amderdam was call away, as bound for the Eall Indies, ann. 1664.
Among the rich cargo ilie had feveral chells of coined gold, the whole was valued at
3,oco,ooo guilders ; of all the crew four only were favcd. The inhabitants of the ftnall
illes, among other advantages they had by this wreck, had the pleal'ure of drinking
liberally of the llrong drink which was driven alhore in large calks, lor the fpace of
three weeks.

Between Br-ilTa-Sound and the oppofite main, lies the Unicorn, a dangerous rock,
vlfible only at low water ; it is fo called ever fince a vcflel of that name periflied upon
it, coiiunanded by William Kiikaldy of Gronge, who was in eager puriuit of the Karl
of Both well, and very near him when his Ihip II ruck.

On the caft lies the ille called Fifliolm ; to the north-eaft lies Little Rue, and on the
weft Mickle Rue ; the latter is eight miles in length and two in breadth, and has a
good harbour.

Near to Elling lies the ifles of Vemantry, which have feveral harboui-s ; Orney,
Little Papa, Ileliflia, &c.

To the north-weft of the Nefs lies St. Ninian's Ifle ; it has a chapel and an altar in
it, upon which fome of the inhabitants retain the ancient fuperftitious cuftom of burn-
ing candle.

Papa-Stour is two miles in length ; it excels any ifle of its extent for all the con-
venieces of human life : it has four good harbours, one of which looks to the fouth,
another to the weft, and two to the north.

The Lyra-Skcrries, fo called from the fowl of that name that abound in them, lie
near this ifle.

About

, (I

'.' II

1) '

6g6

martin's Dr.SCRIPTlON OF TUP.

1 1

About fix leagues weft of tlie main lies the idc Foiila, about three miles in length ; it
Iins a reck remarkable for its iieight, which is feen from Orkney when the weather is
fiiir ; it hath a harbour on one fide.

1 lie illeof Brallii lies to the eafi of 'I'iugwaU ; it is five miles in leng;!i, and two iti
bre:u!t!i : fome parts of thecoalt are arable groimd, ami there are two churches in it.

Further to the eafl lie. the I'mall ille called the Nofs of Braila.

The ifle of Burray is three miles long, has good pallurage, and abundance of fifli on
its coaft ; it has a large church and fteeple in it. '1 he inhabitaras fay that mice do not
live in this ille when brought to it ; and that the earth oi' it being brought to any uilier
part where the mice are, they will quick' v abandon it.

llaveroy iflc, which is a mile and a hal' in l.'ngth, lies to ilie fouth-eafi of Burray.

Tlie ille of Yell io fixteen miles long, and from eight to one in breajth : it lies north-
eafl iVoin the main : there are three churclies and feveral finall chapels in it.

The illeof Ilakaihie is two miles long ; Samphrcy ille oue mile long ; Biggai ifle is a
mile and a half in length : all three lie round Yell, and are reputed among the belt of
the lelfer ifles.

'I'he ifle of Fctlor lies to the norih-eaff of Yell, and is five miles in length, and four iii
breadth ; it hath a church, and fome of the Pids houfes in it.

The ille Unft is eight miles long, and is the pleafantcd of the Schctland ifles ; it has
three churches, and as many harbours; it is reckonid the moll northern of all the
Briiilh dominions. The inhabitants of the ifle Vaila fay that no cat will live in it, and if
any cat be brought to it, they will rather venture to iLa than (lay in the ifle : they lay that
a cat was feen upon the ifle about fifty years ago, but how it came there was unknown,
They obferved about the fame time how the jiroprit-tor was in great torment, and as
they fuppofe by witchcraft, of which they fay he then died. There is no account that
any cat hrfs been ieen in the ifle ever fince that gentleman's dtath, oxepl when they
were carried to it, for making the above-mentioned experiment.

The inhabitants fay that if a compafs be placed at the hou'e of Udfia, on the we'l fide
of the ifle Fctlor, the needle will be in perpetual dilorder, without fixing to anv one
ptle; and th.at being tri.'d afierwards in ihe top of th.it houl',', it had the fame etl'ed,
'J"h,'y add farther, tliat w hen a vellel fails near liiat huuli', the needle of the com])aI"s is
difordered ui the fame manner.

There is a yellow fort of metal lately difcovered in the ifle cf Uzia, but the inhabi-
tants had not ibund a way to mJt it,fo that it is not y^t turiied to any account.

T/jc nncicnt Court /if Jiijfuc

In thefe iflands was held in Holm, in the paiilh of 'i"i;igv.;d!, in the middde of t!ie
main land. This 11. Im is an ifland in the uu'dele o'i a iVt Ih-waler lake; it is to this
day called the I.aw'l inu', and the parifli, in all probaMlity, liatu its name from it. Tiie
<iitraiice to this Holm i-. by fome liones laid in the water; and in the \\v.\n\ there aie
four great flonos, I'pon which fat the judge, clerk, and riht r oilicc'rs of the court. Tlie
inhabitants that had law fuits attended a: fome diftance iVoin rhe lli4in, on the otiiir
fide of the lake ; and when any of theia was called by the olliec!-, he entered liy t!ie
llcppin;; (tones ; and being dihnilfed, he n'tiinv d the I'a.ne way. '1 his was the prat'tiee
of the Danes. The inhabitants hav' a tradition among tlvni, that after one had re-
ceived fent.nce ot death up >ti ih llohn,he obtained a n million, provided he made hi^
ffc.ipe throu'^^h the crowd of people on the lak.- (u\'\ and touched Tin^wall lleeple be.
fore any could lay hold on hiui. '1 his itec pie in ihoic daj s was an al) lum for malefactors

and

WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 697

and debtors to flee into. The inhabitants of this ifle are all proteflants ; they generally
fpeak the Englifli tongue, and many among them retain the ancient Danifli language,
f IpociuUy in the more northern illes. There are feveral who fpeak Englifli, Ndrfe, and
Dutch ; the 'all of which is acquired by their converfe with the Hollanders, that fifli
yearly in thole illos.

The people are generally reputed difcreet, and, charitable to (Irangers j and thofe of
the bed rank aru' fafliionabie in their apparel.

Shetland is much more populous now than it was thirty years ago, which is owing to
the trade, and particularly that of their filhery, fo much followed every year by thfj
Hollanders, Hamburghers, and others. The increafe of people at Lerwick is confide-
rable ; for it had but three or four families about thirty years ago, and is fmcc increafed
to about three hundred families ; and it is obfervable, that few of their families were
nativus of Shetland, but came from fevtral parts of Scotland, and efpecially from the
northern and eallern coafts.

The tilhery in Shetland is the foundation both of their trade and wealth ; and though
it be of lute become lefs than before, yet the inhabitants, by their indullry and applica-
tion, make a greater profit of it than formerly, when they had them nearer the coaft,
both of the larger and Icilcr ifles ; but now the grey fiili cf the largefl; fize are not to be
had in any quantity without going further into the ocean. The fifti commonly bought
by flrangers here are cod and ling ; the inhabitants themfelves make only ufe of the
fn)aller fifli and herrings, which abound on the coaft of this ifle in vaft ihoals.

The fifli called tulk abounds on the coaft of BraflTa; the time for fifliing is at the
end of May. This fifli is as big as a ling, of a brown and yellow colour, has a broad
tail ; it is better frefli than falted : they are commonly fold at fifteen or fixteen ftiillings
the hundred.

The inhabitants obferve, that the further they go to the northward the fifli are of a
larger fize, and in greater quantities. They make great ftore of oil, particularly of the
large grey fifli, by them called feths, and the younger fort fillucks : they fay that the
liver ot one feth afl'ords a pint of Scots meafure, being about four of Englifli meafure.
The way of making the oil is firft by boiling the liver in a pot half full of water, and
when it boils the oil goes to the top, and is ikimmed oft" and put in velTels for ufe.
The filliers obferve of late, that the livers of fifli are lefs in fize than they have been
formerly.

The Ilamburghers, Bremers, and others, come to this country about the middle of
I\Iay, fet up fliops in feveral parts, and fell divers commodities ; as linen, niuflin, and
i'uch things as are moil proper for the inhabitants, but more efpecially beer, brandy,
and bread ; all which they barter for fifli, (lockings, mutton, hens, kc, : and when the
inhabitants aflv money for their goods, they receive it immediately.

Ill the month of June the Hollanders come with their fifliing-bufles in great numbers
t'.pon the coall for honing ; and when they come into the found of Brafla, where the
herrings are commonly moll plentiful, and very near the fliore, they difpofe their.nets,
5cc. in order, but never begin till the twenty-lourtli of June ; for this is the time limited
among themfelves, which is oblerved a:; a law, that none will venture to tranfgrcfs.
This lidiiiig-trade is very beneficial to the inhabitants, who have provilious and necef-
faries im[)orted to their doors, and employment lor all their people, who by their (ifii-
iii'f, and felling the various produds of the country, bring in a confiderable fuin of
money yearly. Tl: proprietors ol the ground are confiderable gainers alio, by letting
their houl'c^, which lervc as Ihops to the feamen during their rclidencc here.

II ;i.

VOL. 111.

There

698 martin's description ojf the

There have been two thoufand buffcs and upwards fifhing in this found in one fum-
iner; but they are not always fo numerous: they generally go away in Augufl or
September.

There are two little towns in the largefl of the Shetland ifles : the moft ancient of
thefe is Scalloway ; it lies on the wt (I fuie of the ifle, which is the moft beautiful and
pleafant part of it. It hath no trudr, and but few inhabitants, the whole being about
ninety in number. Cn the fouth-inft end of the town ftands the calUe of Scalloway,
which is four ftorics high ; it hath kveral conveniences and ufeful houfes about it, and
is well furnidied witli water. Several rooms have been curioufly painted, though the
better part be now worn off. This ancient houfe is almofl ruinous, there being no
tare taken to repair it. It fervod as a garrifon for the Englilh foldiers that were fent
hither by Cromwell. This houfe was built by Patrick Stewart Earl of Orkney, a?tno
1600. The gate hath the following infcription on it : Patricius Orchadia et Zelandicz
comes. And underneath the infcription : Cujm fimdamen faxum ejl., domus ilia mmiebh ;
labilis e contra fi fit arena perit. That houfe whofe foundation is on a rock fliall ftand ;
but if on the fand, it fhall fall.

The inhabitants fay that this houfe was built upon the fandy foundation of oppreflion,
in which they fay the carl exceeded ; and for that and other crimes was executed.

There is a high ftone erefted between Tingwall and Scalloway : the inhabitants have
a tradition, that it was fct up as a monument of aDanifli general, who was killed there
by the ancient inhabitants, in a battle againft the Danes and Norwegians.

The fecond and lateft built town is Lerwick ; it (lands on thai fide of the found where
the filhing is : the ground on which it is built is a hard rock, one fide lies toward the
fea, and the other is furrounded with a mofs, without any arable ground.

On the north is the citadel of Lerwick, which was built in ihe year 1665, in time of
the war with Holland, but never completed ; there is little moi'eof it now left than the
walls. The inhabitants, about thirty years ago, fiihcd up three iron cannon out of a
fhip that had been caft away near eighty years before ; and being all over ruft, they
made a great fire of peats round them to get off the ru(l ; and the fire having hc>ated
the cannon, all the throe went od", to the grrat furprize of the inhabitants, who iay tliey
faw the ball fall in the middle of BralTa Sound, but none of them had any damage by
them.

There are many Picls houfes in this country, and fcveral of them entire to this day ;
the high( It exceeds not twenty it thirty feet in height, ;iiul are about twelve feet broad
in the middle ; they taper towards botii ends, the entry is lower than the doors of houfes
commonly are now, the windows are long and very narrow, and the flairs go up be-
tween the walls. Thefc houfes v/ere built for watch-towers, to give notice of an ap-
proaching enemy ; there is not one of tluin but what is in view of fome other; fo that
a fire being made on the top of any one houfe, the fignal was communicated to all the
reft in a few moments.

The inhabitants fay that thefe houfes were called burghs, which in the Saxon lan-
guage fignifies a town or caflle fenced all round. The names of fortified places in the
weftern ifles are in feveral parts called Borg ; and the villages in which the forts (land,
are always named Borg.

The inhabitants of Orkney fay that feveral burying-placcs atnong them arc called
burghs, from the Saxon word burying.

It is generally acknowledged that the Pids were originally Germans, and particularly
from that part of it bordering upon the Baltic Sea. They were called Phightian^ that is,
fighters. The Romans called them Pi^i. Some writers call them Pictuvi, either

from

^Vi;■9ThRN ISLANDS OJ' SCOTLAND, 699

from that name of PhightiiHy which thoy took to themfelves, or from their beauty ;
and accordingly Boethius, in his character of ihem, joins both thefe together: Quod
grant corporibus robiijlijjtmls candhlifquc ; and Verf^cgan fays the fame of them.

The Romans called tht in P:6li., becaufe tlicy had their fhields painted of divers co-
lours. Some think the name came from picbk^ which in the ancient Scots language
fignifies pitch, that they coloured their faces with, to make them terrible to their ene-
mies in battle ; and others think the name was taken from their painted habit.

This ifle makes part of the (hire of Orkney ; there are twelve parifhes in it, and a
greater number of churches and chapels. Shetland pays not above one-third to the
crown of what Orkney does.

The ground being for the moft part boggy and moorifh, is not fo produdive of grain
as the other ifles and main land of Scotland ; and if it were not for the fea-ware, by
which the ground is enriched, it would yield but a very fmall produft.

There is lately difcovcrcd in divers parts abundance of lime-ftone, but the inhabitants
are not fufficicntly inftrudted in the ufe of it for their corn land.

There is plenty of good peats, which ferve as fuel for the inhabitants, efpecially on
the main.

The amphibia in thefe ifles are feals and otters in abundance : fome of the latter are
trained to go a fifliing, and fetch feveral forts of fifli home to their mailers.

There are no trees in any of thefe ifles, neither is there any venomous creature to be
found here.

There have been feveral fl;range fifli feen by the inhabitants at fea, fome of the fhape
of men as far as the middle ; they are both troublefome and very terrible to the filhers,
who call them Sea devils.

It is not long fmce every family of any confiderable fubftance in thofe iflands was
haunted by a fpirit they called Browny, which did feveral forts of work ; and this was the
rcafon why they gave him ofl^erings of the various produfts of the place : thus fome
when they churned their milk, or brewed, poured fome milk and wort through the hole
of a (lone, called Browny's ftone.

A minifter in this country had an account from one of the ancient inhabitants wha
formerly brewed ale, and fometimcs read his bible, that an old woman in the family-
told him that Browny was much dilpleafed at his reading in that book j and if he did
not ceafe to read in it :iriy more, Browny would not ferve him as formerly. But the
man continued his readii - notwithftanding, and when he brewed refufed to give any
facrifice to Browny ; and ) his firft and fecond brewing mifcarried, without any vifible
caufe in the malt; but the bird brewing proved good, and Browny got no more facri«
lice from him after that.

There was another inftance of a lady in Unfl: who refufed to give facrifice to Browny,
and loll two brewings ; but the third proved good, and fo Browny vaniflied quite, and
troubled them no more.

I (hall add no more, but that the great number of foreign (hips which repair hither
yearly upon the account of (ilhing, ought to excite the people of Scotland to a ("peedy
improvement of that profitable trade ; which they may carry on with more eafe and
profit in their own fcas than any foreigners whatever.

4 u 2

A VOTAGE

( 700 )

' ■■

^ VOTAGE TO ST. KILDA.

i/r 717. MARTIN, Gk.wt*

PREFACE.

MEN arc generally fond enough of novelty, not to fulTer any thing roprefonted un-
der that pliuiliblo invitation to pafs unnoticed. A defcription of fome rcnioto
corner in the Indies fhall be fare to afford us high anuifeinent, whilll a thoufand things
much nearer to us might engage our thoughts to bet.* r jjurpofe, and tht knowledge of
them fcrve to promote our true intcred, and the hillory of nature. It is a piece of
weakncfs and folly to value things merely on account of their dillance : thus men have
travelled far in fearch of foreign plants and animals, and continued (Irangers to the
produdlions of their own climate. The following relation, therefore, I hope will not
prove unprofitable or difpleafuig, unlels the advantages of truth and unall'eited fimpli-
city (hould prejudice it in the opinion of fuch as are more trifling and curious than folid
and judicious.

The author, born in one of the moft fpacious and fertile ifles in the weft of Scotland,
by a laudable curiofity was prompted to undertake the voyage, and that in an open boat,
to the almoft manifeft hazard of his life, as the feas and tides in thofe rocky iilands are
more inconftant and raging than in moft other places. And he has been careful to
relate nothing in the following account but what he afferts for truth, cither upon his
own particular knowledge, or from the conftant and harmonious teflimony given him
by the inhabitants ; people fo plain, and fo little inclined to impofc upon mankind,
that perhaps no place in the world at this day knows inllances like thefe of true primi-
tive honour and fimplicity ; a people abhorring lying tricks and artifices, as they do the
nioft poifonous plants or devouring animals.

The author confefl'es he might have put thefe papers into the hands of fome capable
of giving them, what they really want, a politer turn of phrafe ; but he hopes for the
indulgence of at leaft the intelligent reader, who will always fet a higher value upon un-
adorned truth in fuch accounts than the utmoll borrowings of art, or the advantages of
refined languages.

^ VOTAGE, ^c.

THE various relations concerning St. Kilda, given by thoie of the wcftcrn ifles and
continent, induced me to a narrow enquiry about it : for this end I applieiV
myfelf to the prefcnt fteward, who by his defcripiion, and the products of the ifland,
which were brought to me, together with a natural impulfe of curiofity, formed fuch an
idea of it in my mind, tiiat I determined to fcUisfy myfelf with going thither, it havin-r
been never hitherto defcribed to any purpofe ; the accounts given by Buchanan and
Sir Robert Murray being but relations from fecond and third hands, neither of them
ever having the opportunity of being upon the place. I attempted feveral times to vilit
it, but in vain, until la(t fuminir, the laird of Mack-Leod heartily recommending tho
care of the inhabitants of St. Kilda to Mr. John Campbell, niiniller of Harries, he went
to St. Kilda, and I chearfully embraced the occafion ; and accordingly we embarked at
the Hie Efay in Harries, May 29, 1697, '^^' ^^''^^ ♦'^ ^* ■^•

• Frjm the fourth edition, London, 1753. 8vo.

martin's voyage to ST. KILDA,

?0I

We fet fail with a gentle breeze, bearing to the weflward, and were not well got out
of the harbour whtn Mr. Campbell obferving the whitencfs of the waves attended with
an extraordinary noife beating upon the rocks, exprefled his dillike of it, being in thofe
parts a prognollic of an cnfuing (form ; but the fame appearing fometinies in fummer
before cxct Hive heat, it was flighted by the crew. But as we advanced about two
leagues further, upon the coaft of the ifle of Pabbay, the former figns appearing more
confpicuoufly, we unanimoufly concluded a florm approaching, which occafioned a
motion for our return ; but the wind and ebb-tide concurring, determined us to purfue
our voyage, in hopes of arriving at our defired harbour before the wind or itorm (hould
rife, which we judged would not be fuddenly : but our fond imagination was not fe-
conded with a good event, as will appear ; for we had fcarce failed a league further,
when the wind inclined more fouthcrly, and altered our meafures j we endeavoured by
the help of our oars to reach the Haw-fkor rocks, fome four leagues to the fouth coaft,
which we were not able to clFcd, though we confumed the night in this vain expefta-
tion. By this time we fo far advanced in the ocean, that after a fecond motion for our
return it was found impradlicable, efpecially fince we could not promife to fetch any
point of Scotland ; this obliged us to make the beft of our way for St. Kilda, though
labouring under the difadvantag«\s of wind and tide : our crew extremely fatigued and
difcouraged without fight of land for fixteen hours ; at length one of them difcovered
feveral tribes of the fowls of St Kilda flying, holding their courfe foutherly of us, which
(to fome of our crew) was a demonllration we had loft our courfe, by the violence of
the flood and wind both concurring to carry us northerly, though we fteered by our
compafs right weft.

The inhabitants of St. Kilda take their meafures from the flight of thofe fowls, when
the heavens are not clear, as from a furc compafs, experience (hewing that every tribe
of fowls bends their courfe to their refpedtive quarters, though out of fight of the ifle :
this appeared clearly in our gradual advances ; and their motion being compared did
exactly quadrate with our compafs. The inhabitants rely fo much upon this obferva*
tion, that they prefer it to the fureft compafs ; but we begged le^ve to differ from them,
though at the fame time we could not deny their rule to be as certain as our compafs.
While we were in this ftate we difcovered tlie ifle Borera, near three league-, north of
St. Kilda, which was then about four leagues to the fouth of us ; this was a joyful fight,
and gave new vigour to our men, who being refrefhed with viduals, lowering maft and
fail, rowed to a tniracle. While they were tugging at the oars we plied them with plenty
of aquavitiG to fupport them, whofe borrowed fpirits fo far wafted their own, that upon
our arrival at Borera, there was fcarce one of them able to manage cable or anchor : we
put in under the hollow of an extraordinary high rock, to the north of this ille, whicli
was all covered with a prodigious number of Solan geefe hatching in their nefts ; the
lieavens were darkened by their flying over our heads, their excrements were in fuch
quantity, that they gave a tindure to the fea, and at the fame time fullicd our boat and
tloaths : two of them confirmed the truth of what has been frequently reported of their
flealing from one another grafs wherewith to make their nefts, by affording us the fol-
lowing very agreeable divcrfion, and it was thus : one of them finding his neighbour's
ncft without tlie fowl, lays hold on the opportunity, and fteals from it as much grafs as
he could conveniently carry off', taking his flight towards the ocean ; from thence he
prefently returns, as if he made a foreign purchafe, but it docs not pals for fuch : for
the owner had difcovered the fad before the thief had got out of fight, and too nimble
for his cunning, waits his return, all armed with fury, and engages him delperately.
This bloody battle was fought above our heads, and proved fatal to the thief, who fell

dead

•03

martin's voyage to ST. kilda;

dead fo near cur boat that our men took him up, and prcfently drcfled and eat hun ;
which they reckoned as an omen of good fuccefs in the voyage.

We propofcd beinp at St. Kilda next d;\y, but our cxpeftation was frudrated by a
violent florm, which ahnolt drove us to the ocean, where we incurred no fmal! rifquc,
being no way? fitted for it ; our men laid afidc all hopes ot life, polfefT d with the be-
lief that all this niisfortimc proceeded fron) the impoflor Roderick (of whom hereafter),
who they belii vcd had employed the devil to raile this extraordinary (torm agaiuil
Mr. Campbell, v. ho was to counteraft him. All our arguments, whether from natural
reafon, or the providence of God, were not of force enough to pcrfuade them to the
contrary, until it pleafed God to command a calm the day following, which was the
firft of June, and then we rowed to St. Kilda. As we came clofe upon the rocks, forr.c
of the inhabitants, who were then employed in fetting their gins, welcomed us with a
*' God fave you," their ufual falutation, admiring to fee us get thither contrary to wind
and tide ; they wtre walking unconcernedly on the fide of this prodigious high rock,
at the fame time keeping pace with our boat, to my great admiration, infcnnuch that I
was quickly obliged to turn away my eyes, Icll 1 fliduld have had the unpieafant fp^x-
tacle of fome of them tumbling down into the fea ; but they themfelves had no fuch
fears, for they outrun our boat to the town, from thence they brought the (leward and
all the inhabitants of both fexes to receive us : we approached the outmoll part of the
low rock, called the Saddle ; a parcel of the inhabitants were mounted upon it, having
on their feet the ufual drcfson fuch occafions, i. c. focks of old raj;sfowcd with feathers
inftead of thread : our boat being come pretty near, it was kept o!\' this rock with long
poles ; fome of their number coming by pairs into the fea received Mr. Campbell and
nie upon their (lioulders and carried us to land, where we were received with all the
demonflrations of joy and kindnefs they were able to exprcfs ; the impollor Roderick
endeavouring to outdo his neighbours, and placing himfelf ahvayK in the front of our
attendants, difcovered his hypocrify. Wc all walked together to the little village where
there was a lodging prepared for us, furnilhcd with beds of ftraw : according to the
ancient cu.lom of the place, the officer who prefides tiver thtm in the fteward's abfcnce
fummoned the inhabitants, who by concert agreed upon a daily maintenance for us, as
bread, butter, cheefe, mutton, fowls, eggs, fire, &c. all which was to be given in at our
lodging twice every d.iy ; this was done in a moft regular manner, each family by turns
paying their quota proportionably to their lands : I remember the allowance for each
man per dUm, befide a barley cake, was eighteen of the eggs laid by the fowl called by
them Lary, and a greater number of the lefler eggs, as they differed in proportion ; the
largefl of thefe eggs is near in bignefs to that of a goofe, the reft of the eggs gradually
of a lefTer fizc.

We had the curiofity, after three weeks refidence, to make a calculation of the num-
ber of eggs bellowed upon thofe of our boat, and the fteward's hirlin or galley ; the
whole atnounted to fix thoufand eggs : the inhabitants were thrice our number,
and muft confume a number of eggs and fowls in proportion. From this it is cafy to
imagine, that a vaft number of fowl muft refort here all fummer, which is yet the more
probable, if it beconfidercd that every fowl lays but one egg at a time, when allowed to
hatch.

The inhabitants live together in a fmall village, carrying all the figns of an extreme
poverty ; the houfes are of a low form, and the doors all to the north-eaft, to fecure
them from the fliocks of the tcmpefluous fuuili-wcfl winds. The wallsof the houfes are
rudely built of ftone, the fhort couples joining at the ends of the roof, upon whole fides
iinall ribs of wood are laid, and thefe covered with fti'aw j the whole fecurcd by ropes

5 made

martin's voyage to 8T. kilda. 703

made of twlfted heath, the extremity of which on each fide is poifed with Rone to pre-
ferve the thatch from being blown away. This little village is fcated on a valley fur-
rounded with four mountains, ferving as ramparts of defence, and are fo many amphi-
theatres, from whence a fair profpeft of the ocean and iflcs may be feen in a fine day.

'^'"Sis ifle is by the inhabitants, as likewile by all the weftcrn iflunders, called Hirt ;
Buchanan calls it Hirta ; Sir John Narbrough, and all failors, St. Kilda ; in fea maps it is
called St. Kilder, particularly in a Dutch lea map from Ireland to Zealand, publifhed
at Amfterdam by Peter Goas in the year 1663, wherein it is placed due weft betwixt
fifty and fixty miles from the middle of the Lewis, and the ifle anfwers direclly to the
fifty-eighth degree of northern latitude, as marked upon the ends of the map, and from
it lies Rokol, a fmall rock fixty leagues to the weftward of St. Kilda ; the inhabitants
of this place call it Rokabarra ; this map contains the foundings of fome places near
St. Kilda } thefo not exceeding twenty or thirty fathom ; it contains only the larger ifle,
and a part of the Icffer ifles ; this ifland is alfo called St. Kilda, by a company of
French and Spaniards, who loft their Ihip at Rokol in the year 1686, which they named
to the inhabitants of St. Kilda, whofe latitude is fifty-feven degrees and three minutes.

The air here is fliarp and vvholefome ; the hills are often covered with ambient white
mifts, which in winter are forerunners of fnow, if they continue on the tops of the hills ;
and in fummer, if only on.the tops of the hills, they prognofticate rain ; when they defcend
to the valleys it is a prognoftic of excefllve heat. The night here about the time of the
fummer folltice exceeds not an hour in length, efpecially if the fcafon is fair, then the
fun difappears but for a fliort fpace, the reflex from the fea being all the time vifible ;
the harvcft and winter are liable to great winds and rain, the fouth-weft wind annoying
them more than any other : it is commonly obferved to blow from the weft for the moft
part of, if not all, July.

St. Kilda is two miles long from cafl: to weft; in breadth from fouth to north one
mile ; and five miles in circumference. It is naturally fenced with one continued f;ice
of a rock of great height, except a part of the bay, which lies to the fouth-eaft, and is
well defended generally with a raging fea : this bay is half a mile in length, and as much
in breadth ; it is not common for any veifels to anchor within this bay, in cafe of a ftorm,,
as it might be dangcTous for them ; therefore they drop anchor at the entry, judging it
the fecured : the only place for landing, is on the north fide of this bay, upon a rock,
with a little declination, which is flippery, being covered with feveral forts of fea weeds ;
thefe, with a boifterous fea, render the place almolt inacceffible, the fea being feldom
otherwife but under favour of a neap tide, a north-eaft or welt wind, or with a perfcft
calm ; when thefe circumllances concur, the biriin or boat is brought to the fide of the
rock, and all the inhabitants of both fexes are ready to join their united force to hale
her throuf',h ; for this end they have a rope fattened to the fore-part ; and a competent
number of them are employed on each fide j both thefe are d termined by a crver,
who is employed on purpofe to warn them all at the fame minute, and he ceafes when-
ever he finds it convenient to give them a breathing.

At the head of the bay is a plain fand, only to be feen in fummer, the winter fea
wafliing it all off the (tones ; there is no landing upon this place with fafety, which the
fteward has learned to his coft. There is a little bay on the weft fide of this ifle, all
faced with an iron- colon red rock ; fome veflels take ftielter here, when the wind is at
fouth or north-eaft ; there is a place of the rock here on the fouth fide the rivulet,
where you may land, if a neap-tide or calm offer. The fea is very impetuous every
where about this ifle; they fhewcd me large ftones which were lately removed out of

their

'ja

r'.l

704

MARTIN S VOYAOR TO ST. KIl.DA.

tlicir pbcp, and c\fl into the pallu-s' dock ; 1 mcafuivd foni<; of thcin which Were in
leiii^ih loMU' fiviii, otiurs eight feet, ;iiul llnvc or four Icet in lircadth.

On the lomh part of the louth-i;\ll bay is a httlc old riiincnis fort calh'd the Dowrit
It is evident from what has been ah'cady faid, that this place may be reckoned among
the (Ironqell forts, natural or artificial, in the world ; nature has provided the place
with llore of ammunition for ading on tlie dtfenfive ; that is, a heap of loofe ilones in
the top of the hill Oterveaul, direttly above the landing-place ; it is very eafy to dif-
charge Noilits i)f this anununition diieclly upon the place of landing, and that from a
great eminence almoll perpendicular ; this 1 myfelf had occafion to demonllrate, having
for my diverfion put it in practice to the great fatisfaclion of the inhabitants, to whom
this defence had never hitherto occurred : but they arc refolved to make ufe of this for
the future, to keep oif the l.owlanders, againll whom of lite they have conceived
llrong prejudices. A few hands may be capable of refilling fome hundreds by the
above-mentioned weapons. 'I'he four gieat mountains are faced on the fide towards
the fea, with rocks of extraordinary height ; the hill Conagir on the north fide, is not
lefs than two luiiulred fathom perpendicular above the fea.

Around this ille are four arches ov vaults, tiirough which the fea pafles, as docs the day-
light from either fule, which is vilibli' to any, though at a confidorable dillance; fome
of tiiem npiefenting a large gate : two of thefe look to the fouth, and two norih-welt ;
that on the point of the weft bay is fix fatlmm high above water, four in breadth, filty
paces in length, the top two fat'icim thick, and very llrong, the cattle feeding upon if.

There are feveral veins of diU'er.nt Hone to be feen in the rocks of the fouth-eaft
bay ; upon the north fide of this rock is one as it were cut out by nature, refeniblingH
terrace walk. The cryllal grows under the rock at the landing-place, this mult be
pierced a foot or two deep, before tlic cryllal can be had from the bed of fand where
it lies; the water at the bottom is vi' a black colour; the largeft piece is not above
iour inches long, and about two in diameter, each piece fexangular.

Upon the well fide of this ille lies a valley with a declination towards the fea, with a
rivulet running through the middle of it, on each fide of which is an afcent of half a
mile ; all whicli piece of ground is called by the inhabitants, the female warrior's glen :
this ama/on is famous in their traditions : her houfe or dairy of Hone is yet extant ;
fome of the inhabitants dwell in it all fummcr, though it be lonie hundred years old j
the whole is built of Hone, without any wood, lime, earth, or mortar to cement it, and
is in form of a circle pyramid-wilt; towards the top with a vent in it, the (ire being al-
ways in the centre of the floor ; the Hones are long and thin, which fiipplies the defect
of wood ; the body of this houfe contains not above nine pcrfoiis fitting ; there are thivj
beds or low vaults at the fide of the wall, which contains five men each, and are fej)a-
rated by a pillar ; at the entry to one of thefe low vaults is a Hone Handing upon one end;
upon this (he is reported ordinarily to have laid her helmet ; there are two Hones on the
other fide, upon which Hie is faiil to have laiti her IwortI : they tell you Ihe was much
adiiided to hunting, and that in her days all tlie fpace betwixt this ifle and that of Har-
ries, was one contiimed tract of dry laml. Some years ago a pair of large deer's horns
Were found in the top of Oterveaul Hill, almoH a foot under ground, and a wooden
difli full of deer's greafe. It is faid of this warrior, that ihe let loofe her grey-hounds
after the deer in St. Jvilda, making their courfe towards the op])ofiie illes. There are
feveral other traditions concerning this famous amazon. Hut I fhall trouble my reader
with no more of them.

MARTIM's voyage to ST. KlLDAt

70s

In this ille are plenty of excellent fountains or fprings ; that near the female warrior's
houfe is reputed the bell : it is called Tou-bir-nim-beuy, impoiiing no lefs than the
veil of qualities or virtues ; it runs from ealt to we(f, being fixty paces afcent above the
fea: I drank of it twice, an l'"nglilh quart each time ; it was very clear, exceeding
cold, light and diviretic ; I was not able to hold my hand in it above a few minutes for
its coldnefs ; the inhabitants of Harries find it efl'edual againil windy cholics, gravel,
and head-aches ; this well hath a cover of ftone.

There is a very large well near the town, called St. Kilder's Well : from which the
Ifland is fuppofed to derive its name ; this water is not inferior to that above-mention-
ed ; it runs to the fouth-ea(l fron\ the north-wed.

There is another well within half a mile of this, named after one Conirdan, an hun-
dred paces above the fea, and runs from north-wed towards the fouth-caft, having a
ftone cover.

Within twelve paces of this is a fmall excellent fountain, which thofe of Harries and
St. Kilda will needs call by the author's name, and were then refolvcd to give it a cover
of ftone, fuch a£ is above defcribed .

There is a celebrated well iftiiing out of the face of a rock on the north fide of the eaft
bay, called the Well of Youth, but is only acceHible by the inhabitatits, no (Iranger daring
to climb the fteep rock ; the water of it is received, as it falls, into the fea ; it runs to -
wards the fouth-eaft. The tafte of the water of thofe wells was fo agreeable to me, that
for feveral weeks after, the beft fountains in the adjacent ifles feemed to have loft their
relifli. There is a rivulet running dole by the town, and another larger beyond KiU
der's Well ; this laft ferves for waftiing linen, which it does as well without Toap, as
other water with ; of this we had experience, which was a confirmation of what had
been reported to us concerning this water : we fearched if in the brinks we could dif-
cover any fuller's earth, but found none ; we difcovercd fome pieces of iron-ore iii
leveral places; this rivulet drops from the mofTy ground in the top of the hills.

The whole ifland is one hard rock, formed into four high mountains, three of which
are in the middle ; all thinly covered with black or brown earth, not above a foot,
fome places half a foot deep; except the top of the hiils, where it is above three feet
deep, and affords them good turf; the grafs is very ftiort but kindly, producing plenty
of milk ; the number of flicep commonly maintained in St. Kilda, and the two adjacent
illes, docs not exceed two thoufand, and generally they are fpeckled, fome white, fome
philamorr, and are of a common fize; they do not refemble goats in any refpeft, as
Buchanan was informed, except in their horns, which are extraordinary large, particu-
larly thofe in the lefler ifles.

The number cf horfes exceeds not eighteen, rdl of a red colour, very low, and fmooth
fiunncd, and are employed in carrying turf and corn, and at their anniverfary cavalcade,
of which hereafter. Ihc cows, which are about ninety in number, fmall and great, have
thtir foreheads white and black, which is difcemible at a great diftance ; are of a low
ftature but fat and fweet bref ; the dogs, cats, and all the fea-fowls of this ifle are

fpeckled. ,. m /-

The foil is very grateful to the labourer, producjng orduianly nxteen, eighteen, or
twenty fold ; their grain is only bear, and fome oats ; the barley is the largeft produced
in all the weftern ifles ; they ufe no plough but a kind cf crooked fpade ; their harrows
are of wood as are the teeth in the front alfo, and all the reft lupplied only with long tan-
gles of fea-ware tied to the harrow by the fmall ends ; the roots hanging loofe behind,
fcatter the clods broken by the wooden teeth ; this they are forced to ufe for want of
wood Their arable land is very nicely parted into ten divilions, and thefe into fub-di,
voLiii. ' 4X virions.

ffl

Mi'

706

MARTIN 'a VOYAOI! TO ST. KILDA.

vifion^, tach diilinptiiflietl !iy tlu; name of lomo iloctMlcil man or woman, who wcrft fia.
tivi'S ot ilio place ; llioiv h (nso ipot call..'vl Malta IVriM, aii'lhcr Mu!ui;i A^rin. llm
clu>'t inj^rodient in their conipolls is aflics of turt'nuxal with llrasv} with thole tlit'y mix
thfir uniu', which by t'X|Hric'iu;i' tlu'y fiiul to have much ol tlic vi'jjetablf nitre ; tluy
tlo not prcliTvc it in qiiantitiis as »'llinvhi-rc, hut convey it iiTnncdiatcly from the loun-
tain to the aihcs, which by liaily practice tlu-y find mod advanta'j[eoiis ; tiit-y join alio tho
hoiics, winj,?, ;ind 1 ntr.:ils ol' their IIm-IdwIs to their II raw ; t!iey low -.ery iliick, and
have a proportionable gmwth ; they pluck all their b.ar by the roots in handluls, both
for the lake oH tlicir honf.'S, which they thatch with it, and ilieir cows which they take in
dtiriii;;- the w inter ; the corn produced !iy this compoll is pjilectly free from aj»y kind ot'
weed ; it produces much I'onel wiicre the tonipoll reaches.

The coalt cf St. Kilda, and the IclTer illes, arc plentiluUy furniflicd with variety of
cod, ling, mackaul, coni;:\rs, b,raziers, turbot, i;rayloi\ls, (ytlics; thJl- la(l two are of
rhc fame kind, oidy dilL-rini; in bit;ners ; loine cull them black-mouths j they areas
large as any lalmon, and lomewhat Ioniser ; there are alio laiths, podlocs, herring, and
many more ; nmll ol tliel'c are iilhed by the inhabitants upon the rod., lor tiiey Invu
neither nets nor lonj; lines, 'i'neir common \^M is the hmpet^ or pateilx', parboiled ;
they ufe likewil'e the delh ol" a fowl called by them Bowger, wiiich the liih near the lelVcr
illes catch greedily; lometimes they ule the howger's lleih, antl the patella; at thefimu
time upon one hook, and this, proves luccelslul alio. In the niomh of July a coulider-
able quantity ol niackarel run themfches alhore, but always wiih iv Ipring tide, 'i'liir
amphibia fcen here, arc the otters and I'eals ; this latter the inlrabitanfs reckon Vi: i y good
meat ; no fort of tree*), not even the lealt Ihrub grows iiere, nor has a bee been evtr
\:en here.

LcviniF, a rock about fourteen paces high, and thirty in circumference, but narrower
at the top. Hands about half a league to tiie rouiheail. bay, covered with no kind of earth
or grafs ; a Ipring ol frelh water iiVues out from the fide of it ; this nick, by an ancient
cuflom, belongs to the galley's crew. H iwixt the well point of St. Rilda, and tlie iflj
Soa, is the famous rock Stackdonn, i.e. a Milchievous Rock, lor it hath proved lo to
fonie of their nund)er, who perilhed in attempting to climb it ; it is nnch of the lorni
and height of a lleeple ; there is a very great dexterity, and it is reckoned no fmall
piece of gallantry, to climb this rock, elpecially that part of it called the Thumb, which
is fo little, that of all the parts of a njan's body, the' thuml) only cm lay hold on it, and
that nuift be only for the fpace of one minute ; during which time his feet h.iv.. no fup.
port, nor any part of his body touches the Hone, except the thumb, in which minuti' lie
mull jump by the help ol his thumb, (the agility of his body concurring to raile hini
higher at the fametitne) to a lliarp point of the rock, which when ho has got livid of,
puts him out of danger, and having a rope about hiij middle, which he calls down to
the boat, by the help of this he brines up as many perlons as are defigned for fowlinj^
at this time ; the foreman, or princi^)al climber has the reward of four fowls bellowed
upon him over and above his proportion ; perhaps, one nii.;ht Uiink four thoufand too
little to compenfate io great a danger as this man incurs ; but he has the advantage by
it, of being rocotded among their greate/l heroes j as are all the foremen who lead the
van in (getting up this fame Milchievous Rock.

Within pillul-ijjot from this place is the ifleSoa, a mile and an half in circumference,
but ci ntratted narrower toward the top, being a lull half mile in dillicult afccnt all
round, molt of it bure rock, fomo parts of it covered with grafs, but liangerous to af.
cend ; the landing is alio very hazardous, both in regard of the raging lea, and the
rock, thill nuift be climbed ; yet the inhabitants are accullomed to carry burthens both

'» up

MARTIN j> VOVACli; TO ST. KILDA. fOf

.«if it anil down, am! of tliis 1 was once a witnefs. 'I'horo is fcurcc any landing here, vh-
c I'l in one pl.icf, aiul llMt iiiiilcr iavour ot a weft wind and neap tide ; tlic waves upon
ihi^t rock dilcuviT wlion it i.s accclliblc ; it tlicy appear whitu from St. Kilda, the inhabit*
luut.s do not fo much us uti Ir to launch out their boat, in order to land lit Soa, or any
otiur illeor roih, though tiair lives were at lh.ke. Ihis little ille is iurniihed with an
♦.'XocUenl Iprinj,',, the gr.ds is very Iwcct, feeds hve hundred fheep, o.ich of which generally
has two or three Luubs at a birth, and every lamb fo fruitful, that it brings forth another
lielorc; Itlclf it. a year old. '1 he limic is alio oblorved of lambs in the little ifles adjacent
to thofeof llarrlc'Kaiid North- Wilt. 'Ihc fhcip in the illeSoa arc nevy milked, which
tlifpoles thuin to be the mere proline : there are none to catch them but the inhabitants,
whom I h:wc ieen purine the fheep nimbly down the fleep delcent, with as great Iree-
dom as if it had been a plain hold.

' This ifle abounds witii an inlinitc number of fowl, as fulmar, lavy, falk, bowgcr, &c.
• 'I'herc was a cock-boat lomo two years ago came from a fliip for water, being favour*-
cd by a perfect calm ; the men dilcerned a prodigious number of eggs upon the rocks,
which tempted them to venture near the place, and at lalt obtained a competent nura-
Wr of thorn ; one of the fcnmen was induilrious enough to put them into his breeches,
which he took olf for that purpole ; fbme of the inhabitants of St;. Kilda who happened
to be in the iile that day were fpedators of this diverfion, and were offended at it, being
done without their conllnt ; they therefore deviled an expedient, which at once robbed
the feamtn of their eggs and the breeches; it was thus: they found a few loofe flones
in the fuperhcies of the rock, fome of which they let fall down perpendicularly above
the feauien, the terror of which obli(";ed them quickly to remove*, abandoning both
breeches andegj^s for their fafeiy ; and the tarpaulin breeches were no fmali ornament
in a place where ;ill wore girded pluids.

About two leagues and a half to the north of St. Kilda, is the rock Stack-Ly, two
hundred puces in circumference, and of a great heighth, being a perfect triangle turn-
ing to a point at tiie top ; it is vifibie above twenty leagues didant in a fair day, and ap-
pe-ars blue ; there is no grals nor earth to cover it, but fometimes perfedlly white with
ijolan geefe fitting on and about it. One would think it next to impoflible to climb
this rock, which 1 exprelVed, being ver\ near it ; but the inhabitants alfured me it was
practicable, and to convince me of tlu truth of it, they bid me look up near the top,
where I petccived a (lone pyraniid-houl'e, which the inhabitants built for lodging them-
felves in it in Augult, at which time the iealbn proves inconftant there ; this obliges the
inhabitants in point of prudence to fend a competent number of thofe to whofe fhare
the lot falls ; thcle are to land en this rock fome days befoi\; the Solan gcefo take wing ;
if they negled this piece of iirc-fight, one windy day may difappoint thetn of five, fix,
orfeven thoufand Solan j^wie, which this rock aifords yearly. They are lb very nu-
incrous here^ that they cannot be divided in refped to their lands, as elfcwhere ; this
therefore is the ri-albn why they fend here by lots, and thofe who arc fcnt aft for the
public intered, and when they have knocked on the head all that may be reached, they
then carry then\ to a In j- point, called the Cafling Point, from whence they throw
tin in into the fea, for the height is fuch that they dare not throw them into the boat, until
the boatmen cry ciiough lelt the lea, which has a llrong current there fliould carry them
off, as it does fonit liines, if too many are thrown down at once : thus by degrees, getting
;dl in, they return liome ; and after their arrival every man has his fhare proportioned to
his lands, and what remains under the number ten, is due to the oilicer as a part of his
yearly falary. In this rock ti;e Solan geefe arc allowed to hatch their firfl: eggs, but it is
not fo in the rocks next to be defcribed ; and that for thisreafon, that if all were allowed to

4x2 hatch

ro8

maryin's voyage I'O 6T. kilda.

>aff h at the fame ti'n«», the lofs of the produft in one rock would at the fame time prove
the lofs of all the rcit, fince all would take wing pretty nearly at the fame time.

Theifle Borera lies near half a league from Stack-Ly, to the north-eaft of it, being in
circumference one m'le and an half; it feeds about four hundred flieep perannumf and
would feed more, did not the Solan geefe pluck a large (hare of the grafs for their nefts.

This ifleis very high, all rock, inacceflible except in a calm, and has only one place
for Unding, towards the fouth : in the weft end of this ifle is Stallir-Houfe, wliich is
much larger than that of the female warrior in St. Kilda, but of the fame model in all
refpefts ; it is all green without like a little hill ; the inhabitants have a tradition that it
was built by one Stallir, a devout hermit of St. Kilda ; and had he indeed travelled the
univerfe he could fcarcely have found a more folitary place for a munaftic life.

There are about forty Itone pyramids in this ifle, for drj'ing and preferring i\\i\x fowl,
tec. Thefe little houfes are all of loofe Aones, and fcen at (bme diftance ; here is alio
a furprizing number of fowl, the grals as well as the rocks filled with them. The Solan
geefe polTefs it for the mod part ; they are always mailers wherever they come, and
have already banifhed fevcral fpccies of fowl from this ifle.

An earthquake was felt here in the year 1O86, wliich lalled only for a few minutes;
it was very amazing to the poor people, who were unacquainted with any fuch commo<
tion before, or fince.

To the weft of Borera lies the rock Stack-Narmin, within piftol fliot ; this rock is
half a mile in circumference, and as iiiacceflible as any of the above-mentioned ; there
is a polTibility of landing only in twv> places ; nor that but in a perfed calm, and after
landing the danger in cliniHng is very i;reat. The rock has neither earth or grafs to
cover it, has a fountain of good water ilTuing out above the middle of it, running eaft-
erly, and abounds with Solan geefe and other fowl ; here arefeveral ftone pyramids, as
Weil for lodging the inhabitants that attend the feafons of the Solan geefe, as for thofe
that prefcve and dry them, 'i'he fearifesand mges extremely upon this rock: we had
the curiofity, being invited by a fair day, to vifit it for pleafure, but we found it very
hazardous ; the waves from under our boat rebounding from oif the rock, and mount-
ing over our heads, we durft not venture to land, though men with ropes were lent be-
fore us; v.c thought it indeed hazard enough to be near this rock; the wind blowing
frolh, we had much difficulty to roach St. Kilda again. I remember they brougiu eight
himdrei of the preceding year's Solan geefe dried in their pyramids ; aft'.-r our landinjr,
th" i^cefe being caft together in one heap upon the ground, the owners fell to fliare out
carh man his own ; at which I was a little furprifed, they being all of a tribe ; but having
found upon enquiry that every goofe carried a diftinguifhing mark on the foot, peculiar
to the owner, I was then fatisticd in this piece of fingularitv.

'1 here is a violent current, whether ebb or flood, upon all the co.'ifts of St. Kild.\, the
leti'.'r ifl^b and rocks. It is oblc-rvv^'d to be more impetuous with fpriiig than neap tides ;
tli.-re are edJles on all the coafts, except at a ihirp point where tlic tides keep their
due courfc ; the ebb loutherly, and flood northerly.

A loutlieall moon cauCes high tide; the fpring-tides are always at the full and new
moon ; the two days following ihty are higher, and from that time decr.'ale until the
increide of the moon :igain, uith which it rifes gradually till the fecond after the full
jno n. 1 his obfervation the kainen find 10 hold true betwixt thj IMule of Kantyrc, and
the Farrow Head in Stratlmaver.

TiiC land fowls produced here are hawks extraordinary good, eagles, plovers, crowF,
V Ten.., Uone-chaker, craker, cuckoo ; this laft is faid very rarely to be feen here, and
that upon extraordinary occafions, fuch as tHe death of the proprietor ?/Iack.Leod, the

t> ftcward^

martin's VOYAOB to ST. KILDA.

709

fteward's death, or the arrival of fon.e notable (Iranger. I was not able to forbear
laughing at this relation, as founded only upon fancy ; which I no looner expreflfed,
than the inhabitants wondered at my incredulity, faying that all their anceftors for a
fi'rics of feveral a;;es had remarked the truth of this obft rvation and for a further con-
firmation appenled to the prefcnt (leward, whetlier he had not known this obfervation
to have been true, both in his own and his father's time, who was alfo fteward before
hitij ? After a par:icular inquiry, he told me, that ^oth in his own and father's life-
tiino the truth of the obfervation had been coiilbnily bJitved, and that feveral of the
inhabitants now living have obl'erved the cuckoo to have appeared after the death of the
two Idft proprietors, and the two lad Uewards, and alfo before the arrival of feveral
iln.1' ' , it was taken notice of before our arriv.il, which they afcribe to my coming
there as the only ftninirer, the minifter having been there before.

The fea fowl are, firll, gairfovvl, btiiig the ftatelieft, as wtU as the largeft fort, and
above the fize of a Solan goofe, of a black colour, red iibout the eyes, a large white fpot
under each, a long broad bill ; it ftands Ititely, its whole body creeled, its wings fliort,
flies rot at all ; lays irs egg upon the bare rock, which, if taken away, (he lays no more
for that year ; (li.' is whole-footed, and has the hatching fpot upon her breaft, 1. e. a bare
fpot from which the feathers have fallen off with the heat in hatching ; is egg is twice
as big as that of a Solan goofe, and is varioufly fpotted, black, green, and dark ; it
conies without regard to any wind, appears the firlt of May, and goes away about the
irjiddle of June.

The S<jlan goofe, as fonie ima<^ine from the Irifli word Sou'I-er, corrupted and
adapred to the Scottilh lan^^uage, qui cculis irrctortis c longinquo refpicit pradam^ equals
a common goofe in bigneis ; h by tnealure from the tip of the bill to thL- extremity of
the foot thirty-four inches long, and to the end of the tail thirty-nine; the wings ex-
tend very far, there being feventy-two inches diilancc betv\ixt the extreme tips; its bill
is long, ilraight, of a dark colour, a little cioi.k d at the point ; b;.hind the eyes the (kin
of the fide of the head is bate cf teathery, the cars fmall, the eyes hazel-coloured; it
hath four toes, the f^et anc I -js black as far as they are bare ; ih' plumage is Uke that
cf a goofe. The colour of the old ones is white all over, excepting the extreme tips
oFthe wingF, which are black, and the top of the head, which is yellow, as fome think
the elRft oi age. The young ones are of a dark lirown colour, turning white after they
tireayearo'd ; its eg^ lomewhat lels than t'lat of a land goole, fina I at each end, and
calls a thick, fcurf, and has liitle or no yol; ; the inhabitants are accu'toined to dtink it
raw, having fiom experience found it very pedoral and cephalic. I he Solan geefe
hatch by turns. Wh.n it returns from its li<hing, it carries hve or fix herrin>;s in its
jTorget, ii'.l entif-^ and undigelled : upon hs arrival at the iielt. the hatching fowl puts
its head in the fdher's throat, and pulls out the filh with its bill as with a pincer, and
that with very grtat noife, which 1 had occafion frequently to obferve. They continue
to pluck gralis for their nells from their coming in M.irch till the young fowl is ready to
fly in Au;.;ull or September, according as the inhabitants take or leave the firif or fecond
eggs, li is remarkable they never pluck urafs but on a windy day ; the rea(on the in-
habitants give f(. r this is, that a wmdy day is their vacation from fifhing, and they bellow
it upon this employment, which proves fatal to many of them ; for, after their fatigue,
ihey often fall afleep, and the inhabitants, taking the opportunity, are ready at hand to
knock them on the head. Their food is hernng, mackarel, and fyes. Englilh hooks
are ohen found in the llomachs both of young and old Solan geefe, though none of this
kind are ufed nearer thau the ifles twenty leagues dillant j this mujt happen cither from

the

7T.>

martin's voyage to ST. KILDA.

the liflj ijvilliiig away ihe hooks in tlioie iiles and then going to St. KilJa, or by their
,b'.ing carried thither, by the old geefe.

t The Solan gedb arc always the fureft fign of herrinps, for wherever the one is fcen
the other is never far off. There is a tribe of barren Solan gcefe which have no nefts,
and fit upon the bare rockj thefc are not the young fowls of a year old, wl ! ' dark
colour would ioon diitinguifh them, but old ones, in all things like the rei! ; thefe
have a province, as it were, allotted them, and arc in a fepanite ftate, haviu;; a Hock
two hundred paces diftant from all other ; neither do they meddle wiiii, or ap-
proach to thofe hatching, or any other fowl ; thay fyinpathize and fifh tcv^vfiher ; this
'was told me by the Inhabitants, and afterwards conhnned i'everal times by my own
OufOTvarjon.

The Solan geefe have always fome of their number keej)Ing ccntry in the night, and
if they are fiirprized, as it often happens, all the li< ck are taken one alter another : but
if the ccntincl be awake at the approach of the cii . jv;pr fowler?, and hear a noife, it
cries foftly, Ong^ V^Z-* "^^ \^'hich liu flock nio\'e net ; but if the ccntinel fees or hears
the fowler approaching, he cries quickly, Bir, bii\ wi.ich fi-iouk! feem to impoit danger,
-Jince immediately after the whole trilx- take wing, leaving tiu' iuwler alonu on the rock
10 i-eturn home re i,ifulii, all liis labour for that ni;;ht being fpLiit in vain. Apollonius
Tyantcus might have here found a large held of divcrfion, w ho is faiv! to have travelled
«ver many kingdoms, to learn tlie language of beads and birds.

B.fulcs this way of dealing upon t!iein in the night-time, they arc alfo catclT^d in
cnminon gins of horle-hair, irom which they flruggle ieis to extricate tlicmfeh\s than
any other fowl, notwithlhmding th'.'ir fix:- and iirength ; they are alfo caught ii> ti:
herring-ioches with a boanl Ic on purpole to float above water, upon it a herring
hxcd, which the goofe perceiving, Hies up to a comjjctcnt height, till linding himl i
in a ftraiglu line above the fiih, bends his tourfe perpemlicuLn Iv piercing the air, as an
arrow from a bow, hits the board, into which he runs his bill with all his force, and is
irrocovcrablv taken. 1 he Solan goofe comes about the middle of JVIarch with a S. W.
vind, wai in fnow, cr rain, and goes away, according as the iiihabiiants determine
the time, /, c. by taking away or leaving its egg, whether at the iirll, fecond, or third
time he lavs.

The fuimar in bi;.nef:, equals the malls of the fecnnd rate ; its wir,[;s very long, the
outnde of which are of a greyilh white colour, the infide and bread: all white, a thick
bill two inches lorig, crooked and prominent at the end, with wide nodrils in the middle,
all of a pale colour ; the upper mandible, or jaw, han^s over the lower on both fides
ami at the point, the feet pale, not very broad, with diarp toes, and a back toe ; it
picks food out of the backs of living whales, it, as is faid, ufes fovrel with it, for both arc
four. J in its ned ; it lavs its vvy\ eommoniy the fird, !', coiid, or third day c^f May ;
which is larger than that of a Solan got fc egg, of a wiiite colour, and very thin, the
ihtU fo very tender that it breaks in pieces it the feafon proves rainy ; when tlic f'gg ir
once taken away it lays no more that year like oiher fowl ; the ycumg ones are hatched
in the middle ot June, and are ready to take wing beUnv the twentieth of July ; it comes
in November, tl:e fure mefl'enger ot evil tiuings, being always accompanied with boid^cr-
cus Wed winds, great fnow, rain, or haii, and is ihe- einly lea- fowl that days here all
the year, except the month ot September and part of Oe;u.ber. The iniiabitaiits prefer
this, whether )oung or old, to all other j the old is of u delicate tade, is a mixture of
fat and lean; the ilefli white, no blood to be found but in the head and neck ; the
young is all fat, except tlic bones, having no blood but in iJie head ; and when ti.e

youi'g

martin's voyage to ST. KILDA.

7'Vt

young fulmar Is ready tp take wing, upon being approached, ejefts a quantity of pure
oil out at his bill, and will be certain to hit any that attack him, in the face, though
fevcn paces dillant ; this he ufes of by way of defence, but the inhabitants take carc'
to prevent it by furprizing the fowl bthind, having for this purpofe a wooden diih fixed
to the end of their rods, which they hold before his bill as he fpouts out the oil ; they
furprize him alfo from behind by taldng hold of his bill, which they tie with a thread,,
and upon their return home they untie it with a difh under to receive the oili this oil
is fometimcs of a rcddifli, fometimes of a yellow colour, and the inhabitants tfAl other
iflandcrs put a great value upon it, and ufe it as a catholicou for diftafes, efpecially for-
" ifles ufe it as purge, others as an

pains in the bones, flitches, kc. fome in the adjacent
emetic ; it is hot in quahty, and forces its paffagc throi

rough any woovlen veflljl

The fulmar is a fiwe proj?,noiticator of the weft-wind ; if it comes to land, no welt
\vii\d is to be cxpcdcd lor fome time, but if it keeps at fea, or goes to fca from the land,
whether the wind blow from the fouth, north, or eaft, or whether It is a perfed calm,;
his kci ping the fea is aKvays a certain prera;;e of an aproaching well-v.ind ; from that
quarter he is obferved to .return with his prey ; its egg is as large as that of a Sohn
go«.)fe, white in colour, Iharp at one end, fomewhat blunt at the other.

'1 he Icrafjer, fo, called in St. Kilda, in the Farro Iflands pufTmet, in Holland the Green-
land dove, has a fmull bill fliarp pointed, a little crooked at the end, and prominent ;
it is as large as a pi^aon, its whcle body being black, except a whice fpot on each wing ;.
its egg grev, fiinrp at one end, and blunt at tlie otU.Jr.

It comes in tiie month of IVIarch, and in the night-time, without regard to any wind^'
it is never to bi fcen but in the night, being all the day either abroad at filhing, or upou
its nell, which it digs very far under ground, from whence it never comes in day-light ;
it picks its food out of the living whale, uitli which they fay, it ufes forrel, and
both are found in its neft. '1 he ycung puffin is as fat as the young fulmar, and goes
away in Auguft, if its fuii: egg be fpared.

Tlie law, fo called by the inliabitants of St. Kilda, by the Welch guillem, is nearly
as big as a duck ; its heaii and unpor-fide cf the neck all downwards of a dark brown,
the breaft white, the bill Itraight and iharp pointed ; the upper chop hanging over the
lower ; its feet and claws black.

Its egg in bignefs is near to that of a goofe e^g;, fliarp at one end, and blunt at the
other; the colour of it prettily mixed with green and black; others of them are of a
pale colour, with red and brosvn ftreaks, but the latter is very rare; this egg tor ordi»
nary food is by the inhabitants and others, preferred above all the eggs had here.
This fowl comes v.iih a fouih-wc(t wind, if fair, the twentieth of February ; the time of
its troino- away de[) nds upon the inhabitants taking or leaving its hrft, fecond, or third
eg"- : if it (lays upon land for the fpace of three days without intermiiFion, it is a fignof
foutherlv wind and fair weather, but if it goes to fea before the third expires, it is then
a fign of a ftorm.

The bird, by the inhabitants called the falk, the razor-bill in the weft of England, the
awkin the north, the murre in Cornwall, cj/ai boeri, is a fize Icfs than the lavy ; its
head, neck, back, and tail black ; the hifide toward the middle of the throat white, the
throat under the chin of a duiky black ; beyond the noltrils in the upper jaw is a fur-
row deeper than that in the coulter-neb ; the upper chop crooked at the end, and hahgs
over the lower, both having tranfverfe furrows. It lays its egg in IVlay, its young take
win-/ the middle of July, it the Iidiabitants do not determine its ftay longer, by taking
the egg, which in bignefs is next to the lavy, or guillem egg, and is varioufly fpotted,
(harp at r - end and blunt at the other. •-•■

^ The

I I'l iM

i':!l

yti

martin's voyage to ST. KILDA.

The bowger, fo called by thofe in St. Kilda, coultor-nel> by tbofe in the Fain in.mrr-,
and in Cornwall, pope, is of the fizc of a pigeon, iis bill fliort, broad, and compre'al
lidewife, contrary to the bills of ducks, of a triangular figure, ami ending in a fliarp
point, the upper jaw arcuate and crooked at iha point ; the noftrils are long holes
produced by the aperture of the mouth ; the bill is of two colours, near tlic head of
an afh colour, and red towards the point ; the loot are yellow, the? claws of a dark blue ;
the whole back black, breafl and belly white. They breed in holes under ground, and
oome wiiu a fouth-wefl: wind about the twenty-fecond of March, lay their egg the twenty-
lecond of April, and produce the fowl thetwcnty-fccond of May, if thuir iirll egg be not
taken away ; it is (harp at one enJ. and blunt .Tt tlic other.

The aflilag is as large as a linnet, black bill, wide noftrils at the upper part,
cooked at the point like the fulmar's bill. It comes about the twcnty-l'econd of
March, without any regard to winds, lays iis egg about the twentieth of May, and
produces the fowl towards the middle of Odober, then goes away about the end of
November.

There are three forts cf fea-malls here : the fir ft of a grjy colour, like a goofe ; the
fecond confiderabiy lefs, and of a grey colour ;• and the third fort white, and lefs in fiz'i
than a tame duck; the inhabitants call it reddag ; it comes the fifteenth of April wiili
a fouth-wefl wind, lays its egg about the middle of M.iy, and goes away in the month
of Auguft.

The tirma, or fea-pic, by the inl.abitants called trilichan, comes in May, goes away
in Auguft : if it comes the beginning of May it is a fign of a goo<l fummer, if later, the
contrary is obferved. This fowl is cloven-footed, and confequently fwims not.

It is ubferved of all the fea-fowls here, that they are fattclt in time of hatching, ex-
cept the Solan geefe.

Every fowl lays an egg three different times, except the gair-fowl and fulmar, winch
lay but once : if the firlt or fecond egg be taken away, every fowl lays but one other
egg that year, except the fea-malls, and they ordinarily lay the third egg, whether tl.e
firft and fecond eggs he taken away or no.

The inhabitants obferve, that when the April moon goes far in May, the fowls are
ten or twelve days later in laying their eggs, than ordinarily they ufc to be.

The i.">habitants likewifefay, that of thcfe fowls there firil come over fome Ipies, or
harbing^^rF, efpecially of the ijolan geefe, lowering about the idands where their neftn
are, and that when they have n\ade a review thereof they fly away, and in two or three
days after the whole tribe are fccn coming. Whither the fowls fly, and where they
fpend their winter, the inhabitants are utterly ignorant of.

The eggs are found to be of an aftringent and windy quality to Grangers, but, it fcems,
are not fo to the inhabitants, who are ufed to cat them from the nefl. Our men upon
their arrival eating grccddy of thetn became coflive ar. 1 fcverifh, fome had the hemor-
rhiiid veins fwelled ; Mr Canipbeil :.nd I weA' at no fmall troulde befon* we could
reduce them to their ordinary tempt we ordered a j^iifler for them made of the roots
offedges, frelh butter, and fait, which, being aiiniiniilercc:, had its wiihed-for efle!-! ;
the inhabitants reckoned this an extraordinary pcrforniance, being, it fectas, the fiift of
the kind they had ever heard of.

They preferve their eggs commonly in the ftone pyramids, fcatterinr the burnt aflies
of turf under and about them, to defend them front the air, dryncis being their only
prefervative, and moiftnre their corruption; they pieferve them fix, feven, or eight
months, as abovefaid, and then they become appetizing and loofening, cfp.cially thofe
th»t begin to turn.

That

kii..

MARTIN S VOYAGE TO ST. KILDA.

7^$

Thit fuch a great number of wild fowl are fo tame, as to be eafily taken by the rods
and gins, is not to be much admired by any who will be at the pains to confider the rea-
fon, which is the great inclination of propagating their fpecies ; fo powerful is the na-
tural afFe£lion for their offspring, that they choofe rather to die upon the egg, or fowl,
than efcape with their own lives, (which they could do in a minute) and leave either of
thefe to be deftroyed.

It deferves our confideration to refleft ferioudy upon the natural propenfity and fa-
gadty of thefe animals in their kind ; which, if compared with many rational creatures,
do far outftrip them, and juftly obey the prefcript of their natures, by living up unto
that inftin£l that Providence has given them.

The inhabitants here are originally defcended of thofe ot the adjacent ifles, Lewis,
Harries, South and North Vi(t, and Sky : both faxes are naturally grave, and of a
> fair complexion ; fuch as are not fair are natives only for an age or two, but their off-
fpring proves fairer than themfelves.

There are feveral of them would be reckoned among beauties of the firfl: rank, were
they upon a level with others in their drefs.

Both men and women are well proportioned, nothing differing from thofe of the ifles
and continent. The prefent generation comes fhort of the laft in ftrengh and longevity.
They fhewed us huge big ftones carried by the fathers of fome of the inhabitants now
living ; any of which is a burthen too heavy for any two of the prefent inhabitants to
raife from the ground, and this change is all within the compafs of forty years. But
notwithflanding this, any one inhabiting St. Kilda is always reputed ftronger than two
of the inhabitants belonging to the ifle of Harries, or the adjacent ifles. Thofe of St.
Kilda have generally but very thin beards, and thofe too do not appear till they arrive at
the age of thirty, and in fome not till after .hirty-five j they have all but a few hairs
upon the Upper lip, and point of the chin.

Both fexes have a lifp, but more efpecially the women, neither of them pronouncing
the letters d, g, or r. 1 remember a ftory of a craker that lifped ("two years ago) the
boys of ihe place took notice of, and were pleafed to hear him, and to ape his cry ; one
of the fteward's men beholding them, enquired the meaning of their noife, which, he
told them, was ridiculous ; they returned anfwer, that it was worth his while to behold
the fport of a lifplng craker, whom they aped ; but the man replied, that they played
the fool, for the craker diverted himfelf in lifping after them, and charged them with
that imperfedion ; the boys no fooner heard this, b\it away they ran, and left the craker
to cry and lifp as he pleafed.

There are fome of both fexes who have a genius for poetry, and are great admirers
of mulic : the trump or Jew's harp is the only mufical inftrument they have, which
difpofes them to dance mightily. Their fight is extraordinary good, and they can dif-
cern things at a great dillance ; they have very good meuiories, and arerefolute in their
undertakings, chafte, and honefl, but i-eputtnl jealous of their wives. They argue
clofely, and with lefs paflion than other ifiaiidcrs, or thofe inhabiting the high-Iands on
the continent.

They are very cunning, and there is fcavcc any circumventing of thorn in traffic and
bartering : the voice of one is the voice of all, being all of of a piece, one common
interell uniting them firmly together. They marry very young, the women at about
thirteen or fourteen ; and are nice in examining the degrees of confanguinity before
marriage. Thoy give fuck to their children for two years. The mod ancient perfon
among thcra at prefent is not above eighty years old.

VOL. iri. 4 V Providence

T'ly

7'4

martin's voYAcr: to st. kilda.

Providence is very fuvourable to them in that tlioy are not Infeftod witli feveral dif-
eafes which are fo predominant in the other purts oF tlie world : tlie diftemper that moll
prevails here is the fpottcd fever, and that too confined to one tribe, to whom this difeafe
is, as it were, become hereditary; others are Hable to {luxes, fevers, plciirifics, and the
fpleen ; for all which they hive but a few remedies : to pet away their pleurotic difor-
ders, they commonly lie upon a warm hearth, with the fide alleded downwards; this
they look upon as almoft infallible for difpelling the humour or wind that torments
them. The fmall-pox hath not been heard of in this place for feveral ages, except in
one inftance, of a fingle man who had been infeded on the arrival of two of the
fteward's retinue, who had not been well recovered of it.

The plants produced here are lapnthum vulgarc^ the com non dock, fcurvy-grafs
round, being large as the palm of the hand, tnillc-fcil^ bur/a pnjhris, fdver-wecd, or ar-
gentine, plantane, fage, chicken-weed, forrel, long, or the coi'imon forrcl, all-hail, or
fiderites, the fea-pinck, tormentil, the icurf upon the {tones, which has a drying and heal-
ing quality, and is likcwife ufed for dying. I'he inhabitants are ignorant of the virtues
of thefe herbs ; they never had a potion of phyfic given them in their lives, nor know
any thing of phlebotomy ; fo that a phyfician could not expcft his bread in this common-
wealth.

They have generally good voices, and found lungs ; to this the Solan goofe egg fupped
raw doth not a little contribute: they are feldcm troubled with a cough, except at the
fteward's landing, which is no lefs rare than firmly believed by the inhabitants of the
adjacent ifles.

Thofe of St. Kilda, upon the whole, gave me this following account : that they always
contrail a cough upon the fteward's landing, and it proves a great deal more troublc-
fome to them in the night-time, they then difcharging a great deal of phlegm ; this
indifpofition continues for fome ten, twelve, or fourteen days : the molt fovereign re-
medy again{t this difeafe is their great and beloved catholicon, the giben, i, e. the fat of
their fowls, with which they ftutTthe ilomach of a Solan goofe, in falhion of a pudding ;
this they put in the infufion of oat-meal, which in their language they call brochan ;
but it is not fo effeclual now as at the bej^inning, becaufe of the frequent ufe of it. I
told them plainly, that I thought all this notion of infedion was but a mere fancy, and
that at leaft it could not always hold ; at which they feemed offended, faying, that never
any before the minifler and niyfelf was heard to doubt of the truth of it ; which is
plainly demonftratcd upon the landing of every boat : adding further, that every dc
fign was always for fome end, but here ihere was no room for any. where nothing could
be propofed ; but for the confirmation of the whole, they appealt-d to the cafe of infants
at the breaft, who were likewife very fubjcd to this cough, but couKI not be capable of
affefting it, and therefore, »n their opinion, they were infedcd by fuch as lodged in
their houles. There were fcarco young or old in the ille whom I liid not examine
particularly upon this head, and all agreed in the confirmation of it. They add farther,
that when any foreign goods arc brought thither, then the cough is of longer duration
than otherwise. They remark, that if the fever has been among thofe of the (leward's
retinue, though before their arrival there, fome of tl.c inhabitants arc infeftcd with it.
If any of the inhabitants of St. Kilda chance to live, though but a ihort fpace, in the
iflcs of Harries, Skie, or any of the adjacent illes they become meagre, and contract fuch
a cough, tha: the giben rauft be had, or elfe they mult return to their native foil. This
giben is more fovereign for removing of coughs, being uied by many other illanders
than thofe of St. Kilda. They love to have it frequently in their meat as well as drink,
by which too frequent ufc of it, it is apt to lofe its virtue : it was remarkable, that after

14. this

martin's voyaoe To st. kilda.

7^5

this iafcfted cough was over, we ftrangcrs, and the inhabitants of St. Kilda, making up
the number of about two hundred and fifty, though we had frequently affcinbleJ upon
the occafion of divine fcrvice, yei neither young nor old among us all did lb much as
once cough more.

Some thirteen years ago the leprofy broke out among them, and fome of their
number died by it ; there are two families at profeiit labouring under this difeafc. The
lymptoms of it are, their feet beginning to fail, their appetite declining, their faces be-
coming too red, and breaking out in pimples, a hoarl'enefs, and their hair falling olf
from their heads, the crown of it exulceratcs and blillers, and laftly, their beards grow
thinner than ordinary.

This difeafe may in a large meafure bo afcribcd to their grofs feeding, and that on
thofe fai fowls, as the fulmar and the Solan geefe ; the latter of which they keep fo/
the fpace of a whole year, whhout lalt or pepper to preferve them ; thefe they e?/. roaltcd
or boiled.

One of thefe lepers being with me one day at the Fulmar-rock, importuned nie to
give him a remedy for his difeafe : I began to chide him for his ill diet in feeding fo
grofsly ; but finiling the poor fellow ready and implicitly difpofed to do whatever I
{hould enjoin, I bid him take example from the fulmar, who, they fay, feeds lometimes
on forrel : this was a very furprifnig advice to him ; but when he confidered that the
fulmar required forrel to qualify the whale, he was the fooner perfuaded that his giben
and goofe might require the fame : I advifed him further, to abftain from the giben and
fat fowls, which was no fmall trouble to him, for he loved them exceedingly : I obliged
him likewife to mount the hill Conagor, a mile in height, once every morning and
evening, and he was very careful to comply with thofe injunftions for the fpace of three
days ; in which fhort time he made fome advances towards recovering his almofl: lofl:
fpeech and appetite, for his throat was pretty nearly (lopped up. He continued this
pradicc a w eck longer, by which means he mended confiderably ; and I left him fully
refolvcd to proceed in this praftice, until he was perfedfly reflored to his former (late of
health. 1 had the occafion to obferve another of thefe lepers rave for fome minutes,
and when he was recovered to his right mind, he worked at his ordinary employment.
The inhab 'Hts are Chriftians, and much of the primitive temper, neither incHned to
enthufiafm r ^o Popery. They fwear not the common oaths that prevail in the world ;
when they relule or deny to give what is aiked of them, they do it with a (Irong afle-
veration, which they exprefs emphatically enough in their language to this purpofe :
" You are no mor.' to have it, than if God had forbid it j" and thus they exprefs the
higheft degree of paflion. They do not fo much as name the devil once in their life-
times.

They leave off working at twelve o'clock on Saturday, as an ancient cuftom delivered
down to them from their anceflors, and go no mere to it again till Monday morning.
They believe in God the Father, the Son, and Holy Ghoft ; in a future itate of happi.
nefs and mifery, and that all events, whether good or bad, are pre-determined by God,
They ufe a fet form of prayer at the hoilling of their fails : they lie down at night, rife
arain ui the morning, and begin their labours always in the name of God. They have
a notion that fpirits are embodied, and fancy them to be locally in rocks, hills, or where-
ever they li(f, in an inllant.

Mere are three chapels, each of them built with one end towards the eaft, the other
tov/ards the weft, me altar always placed at the eaft end: the firft of thefe is called
Chrift Chapel, near the village ; it is covered and thatched after the manner of their
houfes ; there is a brazen crucifix lies upon the altar, not exceeding a foot in length ;

4 Y 2 the

I Ml

7i6

martin's voyacr to «r. kiloa.

the body Is completely done, diftended, and has a crown on, all in the crucified pofture ;
they have it in groat reverence, tiipugh they pay no kind of adoration or worOiip to it ;
nor do they cither handle or fee it, except upon the occafions of marriage, and fw- aring
deciftve oaths, which puts an end to all llriie, and both thefe ceremonies are pub ickly
pcrfornictl. 'I'he chiirch-yard is about an huniired paces in circumference, fenced iii
with a little (lone wall, within which they bury their dead ; and take care to keep it per-
fedly neat, void of any kind of naflinefs, nor fuller their cattle to have any accefs to it.
The inhabitants, young and old, come to the church-yard every Sunday morning, the
chapel not biing capacious enout^h to receive them ; here they devoutly fay the Lord's
Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments.

'I hoy obferve the fellivals of Chndmas, Eafler, Good-Friday, St. Colimiba's Day,
and that of All Saints; upon this they have an anniverfary cavalcade, the number of
their horfe^ not exceeding eighteen ; thefe they mount by turns, having neither laddie
nor indeed a bridle of any kind, except a rope, which manages the ho.fe only on one
fide ; thoy ride from the Ihore to the houfe, and when each man has performed his tour,
the fhow is at an end. They are very charitable to their poor, of whom there are not
at prefent above three, and hefe carefully provided for by this little commonwealth,
each particular family contributing according to their ability for their neceflities; their
conduion is enquired info weekly, or monthly, as their occafions ferve, but mort efpe-
cially at the time of their fellivals, they flay fome (heep on purpofe to dilbibute a'uong
the poor, with bread proportionable ; they are very charitable Hkewife to 11 rangers in
dillrefs ; this they had opportunity to exprefs to a company of Frenchmen and Spaniards
who loft their fliip at Rokol in the year 1686, and came in in a pinnace to St. Kilda,
•where they were plentifully fupplied with barley-bread, butttr, cheefe. Solan geefe, eggs,
&:c. Both fcamen and inhabitants were barbarians one to another, the inhabitants
fpeaking only the Irilh tongue, to which the French and Spaniards were altogether
ftrangers. Upon their landing they pointed to the weft naming Rokol to the inhabi-
tants, and after that they pointed downward with their finger, fignifyingthe finking and
perifhing of their veffel ; they (hewed them Rokol in the lea map, far weft of St. Kilda.
This and much more the mafters of thefe (hips told to a prieft in the next ifland, who
underftood French. The inhabitants acquainted me chat the pinnace which carried the
feamen from Rokol wasfo very low, that the crew added a foot heiglit of canvafs round
it all, and began to work at it upon Sunday ; at which the inhal)itcints were altonilhed,
and being -.ighly diffatisfied, plucked the hatchets and other inftrumcnts out of their
hands, and did not reftore theni till tVlonday morning.

The inhabitants had occaiion to (hew great kindnei's to a boat's crew that was driven
from the oppofite ifle S. W., whither they themfelves were driven afterwards, and where
they were treated with no lefs civility and kindnefu than the above-mentioned had been
by them ; fo that it niay be laid of them with great juftice, that their charily is as exten-
fiveas the occafions of it.

The fecond of thefe chapels bears the name of St. Columba, the third of St. Brianan ;
both built after the manner of Chrift's chapel, having church-yards belong.n^ to them,
and are a quarter of a mile diilant from each other.

'J hey told me of a (hip that dropped anchor iti the mouth of the hiy the preceding
year, and that the I.owl,lnJ^rs ai)oard her were not Chriftians ; 1 enquired if thtir inter-
preter, who they laid fpoke bad Irilh, had owned this to be a truth, iliev ari.'wered in ihe
negative; but that ihey knew this by their pratUces, and that in thefe tiir«,e p.irtioulars :
the fird was thi^; v^orking upon Surulav, carrying feveral boats full of Hones aboaal tor
bailaltj ihe fecoiul wuii the taking away ioiiiyi of their cuwii without auy return for

them,

martin's voyaoe to 8T. kilda.

1^1

them, except a few Irifli copper pieces ; and the third was, the attempt made by them
to ravifti tlieir women, a practice altogether unknown in St. Kilda, where there ha&not
been one inflance of fornication or adultery for many ages before this time. I remem-
ber they told nie,'.hat the bribe offered for debauching the poor women, was a piece of
broad money, than which there could be nothing lefs charming in a place where the
inhabitants make no dillindion betwixt a guinea and a fixpence.

Their marriages are celebrated after the following manner : when any two of them
have a^irecd to take one another for man and wife, the officer who prefides over them
I'ummoiis all tlie inhabitants of both fexes to Chrift's chapel, where being affembled, he
enquires piiblickly if there be any lawful impediment why thefe parties fhould not be
joined in the bond of matrimony ? And if there be no obje£lion to the contrary, he then
enquires of the parties if they are refolved to live together in weal and woe, &c. After
tluir allent he declares them married perfons, and then defires them to ratify this their
foiemn promife in the prefence of God and the people, in order to which the crucifix is
tendered to them, and both put their right hands upon it, as the ceremony by which
they fwcar fideliiy one to another during their life-time.

Mr. Campbell, the minifter, married in this manner fifteen pair of the inhabitants on
the feventeenth of June, who immediately after their marriage joined in a country dance,
with bagpipe for their mufic, which pieafed them exceedingly.

They ba'^i.'ze in the following manner: the parent c ills in the officer, or any of his
neighbours, to baptize his child, and another to be fponfor ; he that performs the mini-
fler's part being told what the child's name is to be, fays, " A. B. I baptife thee to
your father and your mother, in the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Gholl :" then
the fponfor takes the child in his arms, as doth his wife as godmother, and ever after
this there is a friendlhip between the parent and the fponfor, which is efleemed fo facred
and inviolable, that no accident, how crofs foever, is able to fet them at variance, and it
reconciles fuch as have been at enmity formerly.

This ifle belongs in property to the laird of Mack-Leod, head of one of the moft an-
cient families of Scotland ; it is never farmed, but moft commonly beftowed upon fome
favourite, one of his friends or followers who is called Steward of thellle. The prefent
fteward's name is Alexander Mack-Leod, who pays yearly to his mafter an acknow-
ledgment of the various products of this ifl:-. This fteward vifits St. Kilda every fum-
mer, and upon his arrival he and his retinue have all the milk in the ifle bedowed on
them in a treat ; there is another beftowed on them upon St. Columba's Day, the fif-
teenth of June ; and we had a fliare of this fecond treat. The fteward's retinue confifts
of forty, fifty, or fixty perfons, and among them, perhaps, the moft meagre in the pariih
are carried thithtr to be lecruited with good cheer ; but this retinue is now retrenched,
as alio fome of their ancient and unrealbnable exaftions.

The I'eward lives upon the charge of the inhabitants until the time that the Solan
geele are ready to fly, which the inhabitants think long enough ; the daily allowance
paid by them is very rtgularly exatteil, with regard to their refpeftive proportions of
lands and rocks. There is not a parcel of men in the world more fcrupuloufly nice
and pundilious in maintai.ihig tlieir lilierties and properties than thefe are, being moft
religioully fond of their ancient laws and ftatutes ; nor will they by any means confent
to alter their tirft, though unreafoiiable, conltitutions ; and we had a pregnant inltance
of tins their genius for preferving their ancient cultoms; they have unchangeably con-
tinued their iirll and aiitivut meafurts, as the maile, amir, and cubit : this mailc contains
ten pecks ; the amir, which they at pr'leiit make ule of, is probably the Hebrew omer,
which contains near two pecks \ the cubit, or in their language, lave keite, i. e. an hand

6 of

fju

7i3 martin's voYAnr. to st. kii.da.

of wood, Is the diflance from the elbow to tlie fingers' emis ; this they only life in mwrur-
ing llieir bonts : the amir, or rather halfiiinir, as they call it, is coinpofed of thin boards,
and, as they acl<iinwlodgc, has been u fed thole I'ourfcore years ; in wliich traft of time it
is confiderably fallen (hort of the mcafiirc of which it was at lirll, wliich they theinfelves
do not alioj^cther deny ; the fteward, to conipenfate this iofs, prct^^nds to a received
cultom of adding the hand of him that mealiirvs the corn to the amir fide, holding fome
of the barley above the due ineafiire, which the inhabitants complain of as unreafonablc :
the Itewardjto fatisly them, offered to refer the debate to Mr. Campbell's dccifion and
mine, they themfelves being to propofe their objedions, and two of his retinue, who
were well fkilled in the culloms of the place, in the time of lome of the former (lewards,
being appointed to anfwcr them, and he jwomifed that he would acquiefce in the deci-
llon, though it (liould prove to his prejudice ; but they would not alter that mcafure if
Mack-Leod did not CNprelslv command it, being periuadtd that he could not attempt to
do fo, as his and their anceftors had had it in fuch elteem for fo many ages. So great
was their concern for this amir, that they unanimoully determined to fend the officer
as envoy, according to the ancient cuflom, to reprefent their cale to Mack-Leod ; this was
the refult of a general council, in which the raafter of every family has a vote, fince
every family pays this ofiicrr an amir of barley per ammn o maintain his charader.

This officer as fuch, is obliged to adjult the refpedive proportions of lands, grafs, and
rock?, and what elfe could be claimed by virtue of the laff tack or leafe, which is never
longer than for three years, condefcended to by the (feward ; nay, he is obliged always
to dilpute with the fteward for what is due to any of them, and never to give over until
he has obtamed his demand, or put the fteward into fuch a paflion, that he gives the
officer at leaft three ftrokcs with his cudgel upon the crown of his head, which is the
utinoft that is required of him by their ancient culloms. 1 faid to the officer who gave
me this account, what if the fteward ftiould give him but one blow .? he anfwered, that
the inhabitants would not be fatisfied if he did not fo far plead as to irritate the fteward
tc ).'ive both ? lecond and a third : I had the farther curiofity to enquire of the fteward
himfelf if he was wont to treat the officer in this manner ; who anfwered, that it was an
ancient cuftom, which in his^ihort time he had not had occafion to practife ; but if he
fhould, he would not confine himfelf to the number of three blows, if the officer fliould
prove indifcreet.

The fteward beftows fome acres of land upon the officer for ferving him and the in-
habitants ; he gives him likewife the bonnet worn by himfelf upon his going out of the
ifland ; the fteward's wife loaves with the officer's wife the kercher or head-drefs worn
by herfelf, and fhe beftows likewife upon her an ounce of indigo. The fteward has ai
large cake of barley prefented to him by the officer at every meal, and it muft be made
fo lar^e as fhall be inlficient to latisfy three men at a time, and by way of eminence it
is baked in the form of a triangle, and furrowed twice round ; the officer is likewife
obliged to furnilh the fteward with mutton or beef to his dinner every Sunday during
his rcfidence in the ifland.

Notwithftanding thefe reciprocal ads of kindnefs, this officer muft be allowed to go
in quality of an envoy to Mack-Leod againft the fteward upon extraordinary occafions^
if the commonwealth have any grievances to redrels, as that of the amir now depend-
ing J but the commiflion given him is limited, the whole boat's crew being joined in
commiffion with him, and are a check upon him, left his dependence upon the fteward
nnght be apt to bias him. He makes his entry very fubmillively, taking oft' his bonnet
at a great diftance when he appears in .\'ack.Leod's prefence, bowing his head and hand
low near to the ground, his relinue doing the Uke behind him one after another, mak-
ing,

MARTlN*is TOYAGi TO ST. KILDA.

719

ing, as it were, a chain ; this being their manner of walking both at home and abroad,
for they walic not abroad M others do ) and in making their purchafu among the rocks,
one lca«4^ the van, and the red follow.

The number of people inhabiting this ifle at prrfent is about one hundred and eighty,
who in the ftoward's abfence are 'governed by one Donald Mack-Gill-Cohn, as their
ffietfre, which imports an officer, 'i'his officer was anciently chofen, or at leafl approved
of, by the people, before the (toward fettled him in his office, but now the ftewarJs have
the nomination of him abfolutely ; he is prefident over them in all their debates, takes
care that the lots be managed impartially, that none to whofe fhare they fall may have
caufe to repine, whether it be for the fteward's fervice, or that of the commonwealth.
The' ufe of the lots, together w ith the crucifix, do mightily contribute to their peace and
quiet, keeping every ono within his proper bounds. It muft needs be a very odd cafe
indeed that falls not within the coiupals of either of thefe two to determine. When
any cafe happens which does not full under tiie decifion of lots, and it is capable of
bemg decided only by the oath of the parties, then the crucifix muft determine the mat-
ter } and if it fhould prove to be a cafe of the higheft importance, any of them are at
liberty to refer it to his neighbour's oath, without any fufpicion of perjury, provided
the ceremony of touching the crucifix with their right hand be obferved j and this is
always publicly performed.

If any man is guilty of beating his neighbour, he is liable to a fine not exceeding the
Value of two (hillings fterling ; if any has beat his neighbour fo as to draw blood irom
him, he is liable to a fine, not exceeding four and fixpence. Thefe crimes are com-
plained of by the officer to the (teward upon his arrival, who either exafts the whole,
or difpcnlos with the fines, as he judges convenient for their future quiet and peace.

They have only one common kiln, which ferves them all by turns, as the lots fall to
their (hare ; he whofe K l happens to be lall does not refent it at all.

The officer, by virtue of his place, is obliged through a point of honour to be the firft
that lands in the leffcr ifh's and rocks, from whence they carry their fowls and eggs, and
nut without lome trouble tcjo. This notion of honour expofes him to frequent dangers ;
atid perhaps, it may not be unj^leiifant to defcribe it as I have feenit practifed ; and it is
■thus : when they come as near to the rock as they think may confift with the fafety of
the boat, which is not a little tolfed by the raging of the fea, thofe, whofe turn it is, are
employed with poles to keep off the boat, which is in great danger, in regard of the vio-
lence of the waves be.iting upon the rock, and they are to watch the opportunity of the
calmelt wave; upon the firll appearance of which the officer jumps at upon the rock j
if there may be any appiireut danger he ties a rope about his midi.e, with one end of
it faftened to the boat ^ if he has landed ("afe, he then fixes his feet in a fecure place, and
by the aOiftanc of this rope draws up all the crew to him, except thofe whofe turn it is
to look aher the boat ; but if in jumping out he falls into the fea, as his misfortune is fo
to do Ibmetimes, he is drawn iuto the boat a^aiu by that part ot the rope that is fo faftcn-
ed to it, and then tlic next, whole turn it is, mult try his luck, the officer after his fall
being fuppofed to be fufliciently fatigued, fo that he is not obliged to adventure his per-
fon again to a fecond hazard upon this occafion, efpecially as he is expofed to the greatefl:
danger that offers upon their landing when they return back again to the ifle, where the
fea often rages, he bein;^ obliged then by virtue of his office to flay in the boat, after the
whole crow are landed, where he muft continue employing his pole, until the boat be
either brought fafe to land, or fplit upon the rocks.

They furnifh themfelves with ropes to carry them through the more inacceflible rocks j
of thefe ropes there are only three in the whole ifland, each of them twenty-four fa-
thoms

yio

martin'* VOVAOI to ST. KILDA.

thofflB in length ; and they are either knit together and lengthened by tying the one to
the other, or ofed feparatcly as occanon' requires ; the chief thing upon which the
flrength of thefe ropes depends, is cow'h hides fahed, and cut out in one lopg piece }
this they twilt round the ordinary rope of hemp, which fecures it from being cut by the
rocks : they join fometimes at the lower end two ropes, one of which they tic about the
middle of one climber, and another about the middle of another, that thefe may afTift
one another in cafe of a fall ; but the misfortune is, that fometimes the one happens to
pull down the other, and fo both fall into the fea ; but if they efcape, as they commondy
do of late, they get an incredible number of eggs and fowls.

The ropes belong to the commonwealth, and are not to be ufed without the general
confent ; the lots determine the time, place, and perfons for ufmg them ; they get toge<
ther in three days a much greater number of fowls and eggs than their boat is able to
carry away, and therefore what is over and above they leave behind in their (lone pyra-
mids : they catch their fowls with gins made of horle^hair, thefe are tied to the end of
their fi(hing-rods, with which the fowlers creep through the rocks indifcernably, putting
the noofeover their heads and about their necks, and fo draw them inftantly } they ufc
likewife hair gins which they fet upon plain rocks, both the ends faftened by a Itone,
and fo catch forty or fifty a day with them.

The inhabitants, I mult tell you, run no fmail danger in quefl of thefe fowls and eggs,
infomuch that I fear it would be thought an hyperbole to relate the inaccefliblciiefs,
fteepnefs, and height, of thofe formidable rocks which they venture to climb. I myfeK^
have feen fome of them climb up the comer of a rock with their backs to it, making
ufe only of their heels and elbows, without any other aflTiflance ; and they have this
way acquired a dexterity in climbing beyond any I ever yet faw : neceflity has made
them apply themfclves to this, and cuftoin has perfected them in it ; fo that it is become
familiar to them almofl from their cradles, the young boys ut three years old begin to
climb the walls of houfes : their frequent difcourfes of climbing, together with the fa-
tal end of feveral in the exercife of it, is the fame to them, as that of fighting and killing
is with foldiers, and is become as familiar and lefs formidable to them, than otherwife
certainly it would be. I faw two young men, to whofe (hare the lots fell in June lad,
for taking the neft of a hawk, which was in a high rock above the fea, bringing home
the hawks in a few minutes, without any afliftance at all.

Their dogs are likewife very dexterous in climbling and bringing out from their holes
thofe fowls which build their neds far under ground, fuch as tne fcraber, puffinet, &c.
which they carry in their teeth to their mafters, letting them fall upon the ground b^
fore them, though afleep.

The inhabitants fpeak the Irifli tongue only ; they exprefs themfelves flowly but per-
tinently, and have the fame language with thofe of Harries and other ifles, who retain
the Irilh in its purity.

Tlicir habit anciently was of (heeplkins, which has been worn by feveralof the inhabi-
tants now living; the men at this day wear a fliort doublet reaching to their walle,
about that a double plait of plaid, both ends joined together with the bone of a fulmar;
this plaid reaches no further than their knees, and is above the waifl pirt with a leather
belt ; they wear caps of the fame colour and (hape with the capuchins, but fhorter ;
and on Sundays they wear bonnets ; fome of late have got breeches, they are itiade wide
and open at the knees; they wear cloth (lockings, and go without flioes in futumeri
their leather is dreffed with the roots of tormentil. '.».- «i* tt tfi'Hhfi^: >mf'- '

The women wear upon their heads a linen drefs, ftralt before, and drawing to a fmall
point behind bek)w the ihoulders, a foot and an half in length, and a lock of about fixty

hairs

MARTIN 8 VOYAGE TO ST. KILDA.

7«f

Iiairs hanging down each check, to thoir broads, the lower end tied with n knot j their
phiid, which is tl)c upper j^anntnt, is I'adcnt'd upon ihtir bnails with a l.irg" round
buckle of brul's in form of a circle ; the buckits anciently worn by ihi- iL'w.m.'s wlvi-s
were of lilvcr, but iho prefciif fteward's wife makes no ufu of ci [icr ihis dftfs or buckle.
The women inhabiiin}; this iilo wear no fhoe". nor (lockings in the ruinnior.iime: thiir
ordinary and only Ihoes are made of the necks of Solan [i^v^'i''.-., wliicli they cut above the
eyes, the crown of the head fervcs for the heel the whole ikiii being cut doll' at tliti
bread, which end being fowcd, the foot oners in'o i', as into a piece of nanow (lock-
ing ; this flioc docs not lift above five days, and if the ilowny fide be next the ground,
then not above three or four; however, there aro pleiuy of ihem, Come ihoufands
being cafched, or, as they term it, ftolen every Mirch.

Both fcxes wear coarfe flannel (hirts, which ili.y put oflwhen tiny go to bed ; they
thicken their cloatlis upon flakes, or mats of hay l willed and woven logeiher in Iniall
ropes; they work hard at this employment, firlt making ufe of their hands, and then
of their feet ; when they arc at this work, they commonly fing the whob time, one of
their number atling the part of a prime chatitrefs, whom ;ill ih red fi-sllow

'I'iiey place 'he faces of their I'ead towards the eall wh n tlu y buiy ihein, bewail their
relations eNceflively, and upon thile ■''cifio.'s ni.ike dohlul foiigs, which they call la«
ments. Upon the news o! the l.\te ^lack-I.eod's dt uh, they abandoned their houfes,
and mourned two days in the fields. 'J hey il a cow, or a (heep, before the inter-
ment, unleis it be i;i the fpring, wh'-n this re , nony is, on account of the cattle being
at that time poor and lean, deferred till the, 'jjcome fat.

Their ordinary food is baric y ar ' '^ )me cat-bread t ked with water : they eat all the
fowl already defcribcd, being dri( d n their ftcne-iujules, without any fait or fpice to
prelorvc them ; and all their beef and mutton is eat fre(h, after the fame manner they
ufe the gibcii, or fat of their fowls ; this gibcn is by daily experience found to be a
fovereign remedy for healing of green wounds ; it cured a cancer ia an inhabitant of
the ifle of Lewis, and a filiula in one Nicholfon of Sky, in St. Mary's pari(h ; this
was performed by John Mack-Lean, furgeon, there : they boil the fea-plants, dulfe and
flake, melting the giben upon theivi inftead of butter, and upon the roots of filver-weed
and dock boiled, and alfo with their fcurvy-grafs (loved, which is very purgative, and
is here of an extraordinary breadth. 'J'hey ufe this giben with their fi(h, and it is be-
come the common vehicle that conveys all their food down their throats. They are
undone for want of faU, of which as yet they are but little fenfible; they ufe no fet
times for their meals, but are determined purely by their appetites.

They ufe only t^ - nflies of fea-ware for falting their cheefe, and the fliorteft only,
which grows in th . v ks, is ufed by them ; that being reckoned the mildeft.

Their drink is water or whey commonly : they brew ale but rarely, ufing the juice
of nettle-roots, which they put in a difh with a little barley-meal dough ; thefe fowens,
//. e. flummen' ,") being blended together, produce yeft, which puts their wort into a
ferment and makes good ale, which, when drank plentifully of, generally difpofes them
to dance merrily.

They preferve the Solan geefe in their pyramids for the fpace of a year, flitting them
down the back, for they have no fait to keep them with. They have built above five
hundred of thefe (lone pyramid.*? for their fowls, eggs, &c.

We made particular inquiry after the number of Solan geefe confumed by each fa-
mily in the year before we came there, and it amounted in the whole to twenty-two
thoufand fix hundred, which, they faid, was lefs than the ordinary number, a great many
being loft by ihe badnefs of the »feafon, and the great current into which they are
VOL. III. 4 B obliged

72«

martin's voyage to 8T. ICILDAt

Obliged to be thrown when taken, the rock being of fo extraordinary a height, that they
cannot reach the boat.

Ther ) is one boat fixtcen cubits long, which ferves the whole commonwealth j it is
very curioufly divided into apartments proportionable to their lands and rocks ; every
individual has his fpace diftinguiflied to a hair's breadth, which his neighbour cannot
encioach fo much as to lay an egg upon it.

tveiy partner in fummcr provides a large turf to cover his fpace of the boat, thereby '
defending it from the violence of the I'un, which (in its meridian height) reflefts mod
vehemently from the fea, and rock upon which the boat lies ; at the drawing it up,
both fexes are employed in pulling a long rope at the fore end ; they are determined
in uniting their ftrength by the crier, who is therefore excepted from his fhare in the
labour.

There is but one fleel and tinder-box in all this commonwealth ; the owner whereof
fails not upon ever occafion to ftrike fire in the leffer ifles, to go there, and pxaft three
eggs, or one of the leffer fowls from each man as a reward for his fervice ; this by them
is called the fire-penny, and this capitation is very uneafy to them j I bid them try their
cryAal with their knives, vfhkh when they faw it produced fire, they were not a little
aftoni'hed, and at the fame time accufing their own ignorance, confidering the quantity
of cryllal growing under the rock of their coaft. This difcovery has delivered thetn
from the fire- penny tax, and they are now no longer liabla to it.

They have likewife a pot-penny tax, which is exaded in the fame manner as the fire-
penny was, but is much more reafonable ; for the pot is carried to the inferior iflos for
the public ufe, and is in hazard of being broken ; fo that the owners niayjultly exa£t
upon this fcorc, fince any may venture his pot when he pleafes.

When they have beftowed fome hours in fowling about the rock, and caught a com-
petent number, they fit down near the face of it to refreih themfelves, and in the mean
time they fingle out the fatteft of their fowls, plucking them bare, which they carry
home to their wives or fweethearts, as a great prefent, and it is always accepted very
kindly from them, and could not indeed well be otherwife, without great ingratitude,
feeing thefe men ordinarily expofe themfelves to great danger, if not to the hazi»rd of
their lives, to procure thofe prefents for them.

In the face of the rock, fouth from the town, is the famous ftone, known by the name
of the Midrefs-Stone ; it refembles a door exaftly, and is in the very front ot this rock,
which is twenty or thirty fathom perpendicular in height, the figure of it being dif-
cernible about the diftance of a mile : upon the lintel of this door, every bachelor-
woer is, by an ancient cuflom, obliged in honour to give a fpecimen of his affedion for
the 'iove of his miOrefs, and it is thus : he is to (land on his lelt foot, having the one
half of it over the rock, he then draws the right foot towards the left, and in this pof-
ture, bowing, puts both his fills further out to the right foot ; after he has performed
this, he has acquired no fmall reputation, being ever after accounted worthy the fmcH:
v/om^n in the world : they firmly believe this achievement is always attended with the
defired fucccfs.

This being the cuftom of the place, one of the inhabitants very gravely defired me
to let him know the time limited by me for trying this piece of gallantry before I de-
figncd to leave the place, that he might attend me : I told him the performance would
have a quite contrary cffcd upon me, by robbing nie both of my life and iniltrefs at the
fame moment, but he was of a contrary opinion, and infilled vn the good fortune at-
tending it ; but I mud confcfs all his arguments were too weak to make me attempt
the experiment.

6 The

martin's voyage to ST. KILDA.

723

They take their meafures in going to the lefler iflands from the appearance of the
heavens ; for when it is clear or cloudy in fuch a quarter, it is a prognoftic of wind or
fair weather ; and when the waves are high on the eaft point of the bay, it is an infal-
lible fign of a ftorm, efpecially if they appear very white, even though the weather be
at that time calm.

If the waves in the bay make a noife as they break before their beating upon the (hore,
it is an infallible forerunner of a weft wind ; if a black cloud appears above the fouth
fide of The bay, a fouth wind follows fome hours afterwards. It is obferved of the fea
betwixt St. Kildaand the ifles Lewis, Harries, &c. that it rages more with a north wind,
than when it blows from any other quarter. And it is likewife obferved to be lefs raging
with the fouth wind than any other.

They know the time of the day by the motion of the fun from one hill or rock to
another ; upon either of thefe the fun is obferved to appear at different times ; and
when the fun does no^ appear, they meafure the day by the. ebbing and flowing of the
fea, which they can teil exaftly, though they (hould not fee the Ihore for fome days
together : their knowledge of the tides depends upon the changes of the moon, which
they are likewife very exad in obferving.

They ufe for their diverfion fliort clubs and balls of wood ; the fand is a fair field for
this fport and exercife, in which they take great pleafure, and are very nimble at it ; they
play for eg^s, fowl, hooks, or tobacco ; and fo eager are they for viftory, that they
ftrip themfelves to their fhirts to obtain it : they ufe fwimming and diving, and are very
expert in both.

The women have their aflemblies in the middle of the village, where they difcourfe of
their affairs, in the mean time etnploying their diftaff, and fpinning in order to make
their blankets ; they fmg and jeft for (liverfion, and in their way underftand poetry, and
make verfes. Both men and women are very courteous ; as often as they paffed by
us every day, they faluted us with their ordinary compliment of" God fave you ;"each
of them making their refpeftlve curtfies.

Both fexes have a great inclination to novelty ; and, perhaps, any thing may be
thought new with them that is but different from their way of managing land, cattle,
fowl, &c. A parcel of them were always attending the minifter and me, admiring out
habit, behaviour, &c. In a word, all we did or faid was wonderful in their efteem ;
but above all, writing was moft aftonifliing to them : they cannot conceive how it is
poffible for any mortal to exprefs the conceptions of his mind in fnch black charafters
upon white paper. After they had with admiration argued upon this fubjed, I told
them, that within the compafs of two years or lefs, if they pleafed, they might eafily be
taught to read and write, but they were not of the opinion that either of them could be
obtained, at leaft by them in an age.

The officer, in his embaffy in July laft, travelled fo far as to land on the continent
next to Sky, and it was a long journey for a native of St. Kilda, for fcarce any of the
inhabitants have ever had the opportunity of travelling fo far into the world.

They obferved many wonderful things in the courfe of their travels ; and think Mack-
Leod's family is equivalent to that of an imperial court, and believe the King alone to be
fuperior to him : they fay his lady wore fo (Irangc a lowland drcfs, that it was im-
poifible for them to defcribe it ; they admired glafs windows hugely, and a looking-glafs
to them was a prodigy ; they were amazed when they faw hangings covering a thick
wall of (tone and lime, and condemned it as vain and fupcrfluous.

They reckon the year, quarter, and month, as in Great Britain. They compute the
fevcral period* of time by the lives of the proprietors and flcwards, of whofe greateft

4 2: 2 actions

yi4 MARTIN S VOYAGE TO ST. K.IJLDA.

aftions they have a tradition, of wliich they difcourfe with as great fatisfattion as any
hiftorian refleding on the Csfars, or groateit generals in the world.

They account riding one of the grcatell of earthly grandeurs, and told me with a
ftrange admiration, that Mack Leod travelled not on foot, as they fuppofed all other
men did, and that they had feen feveral horf^-s wiiich were kept on purpole for him to
ride upon.

One of their number landing in the ifle of Harries, enquired who was the pro-
prietor of thofe lands ? They told him that it was Mack-Leod ; which did not a
little raife his opinion of him. This man afterwards, when he was in the ifle of Sky,
and had travelled fome miles there, one day (landing upon an eminence, and looking
round about, fancied he law a great part of the world, and then alked to whom thoie
lands belonged ? and when one of the company had acquainted him, that Mack Lecd
was mailer of thofe lands alio, the St. Kilda man, lifting up his eyes and hanJs to hea-
ven, cried out with admiration, " O mighty prince, who art mailer of fuch vad terri-
tories !" This he cxpreffed lo emphatically in the Irifh language, that the faying from
that time became a proverb whenever any body would expreis a groatuefs and pleni-
tude of power.

One of the things they admired moft was the growth of trees ; they thought the
beauty of the leaves and branches admirable, and how they grew to fuch a height above
plants, was far beyond their conception : one of them, much aHonifiied, told me that
the trees pulled him back as he travelled through the woods j and they refolved once
to carry fome fcv/ of them on their backs to their boats, and take them to St. Kilda,
but, upon fecond thoughts, the length of the j'urncy, being through the grcatell part
of the ifle of Sky, deterred them from this undertaking, for though they excel others
in llrength, they are yet but bad travellers on foot, being fo much uiiufed to it.

One of their number travelling in the ifle of Sky to the fouth part of it, thought this a
prodigious journey ; and feeing in the oppofite ctmttncnt the fliire of Invrrnefs, divided
from Sky on y by a narrow fea, inquired of the company if that was the border of
En^iland.

One of the St. Kilda men, after he h. 1 taken a pretty large dofe of aqua vita, and was
become very heavy with it, as he was fili.:.i.r mto a fleep, and fancying it to be his lad,
exprelled to his companions the greiit fatisfadion >ie had in meeting with fuch an eafy
paifage out cf this world ; " Kor (faia he; it is nended with no kind of pan." In
fliort, their opinion of foreign objects i*; as reniote 'iva\ the ordinary lentiments of other
nun, as they are themlelves from all i\ i"ir,n convt t

I Uiuit not omit acquainting the reid^i, that the ..(( ount given of the failor's nide-
iiels to the inhabitants lias created great prejudices h. u.-.n againlt feamen in general;
and, though 1 endeavoured to bring ^heni into lome ^ ^ opinion of th; m, it will not
be improper to fpe^k of the t<ri.is upon which the in;, itauts arc refolved to receive
ftrati'^crs. They will admit of no number exceeding iii., and they too inid be un-
armiJ, or the mna' itants will oppofe them with all their n ht ; but if . lumber not
exceeding the above, come peaceably, and with good del; ;is, they may expett water
and i\r{: gratis, and v^hat i lie the place affords on the eaficit terms in the world.

The inhabitan's of St Kilda are much happier than the > • ' erality of mankind, being
alnioll the only p npie in the world who feel the fweetnti if true liberty : what the
condition of the pf^ople in the golden age is feigned by the ji .ts to be, that theirs really
is, I mean, in innocence and fimplicity, purity, mutual love :ind cordial triendlhip, free
Ironi folicitonr, care?;, and anxious covetouliK-fs ; from envy, deceit, and diiiiinulation ;
fjroiii ambkiua and pride, aiid the confequences :hat attend them. They are alto.

gethcr

martin's voyage to ST. K.II.DA,

725

gether ignorant of the vices of foreigners, and governed by the didates of recifon and
Chriftianity, as it was firlt delivered to them by thofe heroic fouls whofe zeal moved
them to undergo danger and trouble to plant religion here in one of the remotell cor-
ners of the world.

There is this only wanting to make them the happiefl: people In this habitable globe, viz.
that they themfelves do not know how happy they are, and how much they are above
the avarice and flavery of the reft of mankind. Their way of living makes them con*
temn gold and filver, as below the dignity of human nature ; lijy live by the munifi-
cence of Heaven, and have no defigns upon one another, but Inch as are purely lug-
gefted by jui'ice and benevolence.

There being about thirty of the inhabitants one day together in the ifle Soa, they
efpied a man with a grey coat and plaid, in a (hirt, floating on the fea upon his bolly^
and faw likewife a mall pecking at his neck ; this vifion continued above a quarter of
an hour, and then difiippeared ; but Ihortly after, one of the fpectators chanced to fall
into the fea, and, being drowned, refembled the forewarning vifion in all things, and
the mall w.s alfo feen upon his neck; this was told me by the (teward fome years be-
fore, and afterwards was confirmed to me by luch as were themfelves eye-witnefles of it.

None of the inhabitants pretended to the fccond fight, except Roderick the impoflor,
and one woman, and (he told her neighbours, that (he law, lome weeks before our
coming, a boat (^different fron\ that of the lleward) with fome ftrangers in it, drawing
near to their ifle.

An Account of one Roderick, ffpofed to have hadConverfat'ton with afamUiar Spirit, and
pretending to befint by St John the Baptiji, "with new Revelations and Difcoveries.

AFTER our landing, the minifter and I, according to our firfl refu'ution, examined
the iniialiia; t:5 apart concerning the new pretended religion delivered to them by their
fall, -prupnet.

All of them, young as well as olJ, both men and women, unanimoufly agreed in the
following account : they heartily coni;r.itulated the miniiler's arrival, and at the fame
tir.L ilecland their abhorriuce of the impoftor's dclufions, and with repeated iulhuices
begged for the L(>rd's fake that he might be for everremoveii out of the ifle.

Tfiis unpoftor is a comely, well-proportioned teilow, red-haired, and exceeding all the
inhabitants of St. Kilda in lirength, cHj bing, &c. He is illiterate, and under the
fame circumftances with his companions : for he had not U> much as the advantage of
fvtr feeing any ol the Weftern Ifles; all his coiivcrfadoii bcin;;; with the Iteward's
retinue only, who were as ignorant of letters as hirnfcU.

In the eighteenth year of his ag , he took the iiberty of going to fifli on u S day (a
pra^ice altogether unkno\Kn in bt. Kilda) ; and he afl'erts, that in his return ho ird,
a man in a lowland drefs, /. e. a cloak and hat, appeared to him upon the road ; ... :his
unexpedcd meeting, Roderick fell flat on the ground in great diforder j the man dc-
fired liim not to be furprifed at his prefence, for that he was John the D;tpdft imme.*
dia.ely come from heaven with good tidings to the inhabitants of that place, who had
been for a long ti?nc kept in ignorance and error ; that he had commiilion to inftrudt
Roderick in the laws of heaven for the edification of his neighbours : Roderick an.
fwercd, that he was no way qualified for fo great a charge ; but the pretended
Baptiit defired him to be of good courage, for that he would inftantly make him capable
for his i:iufnon, and then delivered to him the foUov^ing fcheme, in which Roderick fo

3 mixed

JiS martin's voyage to CT. KILHAi

mixed the .audablc cuftoins of tLo church with his own diabolical inventions, that it
became impofiible for fo ignorant a people, to diftinguifh the one from the other.

The firft and principal command he iinpofed upon them, was that of the Friday's fad,
which he enjoined with fuch ftriclnefs, as not to allow one of thcni to tafte any kind
of food before night, no, not fo much as a fnuff of tobacco, which they love extremely ;
this bare faft, without any religious exercife attending it, was the firft badge and cogni-
zance of his followers. He perfuaf'ed the people, tliat fome of their deceafed neigh-
bours were nominated faints .n heaven, and advocates for thofe who furvived ; he told
them, every one had his relpedive advocate ; that the annivcrfary of every faint was ic
be commemorated by every pcrfon under whofc tutelage he was reputed to be. And
this is obfcrved by treating the neighbours with a plentiful entertainment of beef or
mutton, fowls, &c. the impoftor himfelf being ever the chief gueft at the feaft ; from
whence a (hare of the provifion was punctually fent to his wife and children ; the num-
ber of fheep ordinarily confumed on thefe occafions was proportionable to the ability of
him that beftowcd them.

He impofed likewife feveral penances which they were obliged to fubmit to, under
pain of being expelled from the fociety of his congregation, which he pretended to be
founded upon no lefs authority than that of St..John the Baptift, and threatened to in-
flict the fevered judgments upon thofe who Ihould prove rcfradory, and not obey
his injun£lions.

The ordinary penance he impofed upon them, was making them (land in cold wa-
ter, without any regard to the feafon, during his pleafure ; and if thcro were more of
them upon whom this feverity was to be inflidted, they were to pour cold water upon
one another's heads till they had fatisfied his tyrannical hu'nour. This diabolical feverity
was evidence enough, that he was lent by him who is the " father of lies, and was a mur-
derer from the beginning."

He commanded that every family fhould flay a flieep upon the threfhold of their doors,
but a knife mull not fo much as touch it ; he would have them only make ufe of their
crooked fpades for their inilrumcnts to kill them with ; for which, if duly confidercd,
there is nothing more improper, the edge with which he commanded the (beep's neck
to be cut being almofl half an inch thick. Now this was to be done in the evening,
and if cither young or old had tailed a bit of the meat of it that night, the equivalent
number of (het-p were to be flain the following day, after the former manner.

He forbid the ufe of the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandtnents, and inflead
of thorn prcfcribcd diabolical forms of his own. His prayers and rhapfotlica! forms
were often blended with the names of God, our bleOed Saviour, and the immaculate
Virgin ; he ufed the Irifh viorA pfyrfuhin^ i. e. verfes, which is not known in St. Kilda,
nor in the north-weft ifles, except to fuch as can re.id the Irifh tongue. But what
feemed moft remarkable in his obfcure prayers, was his monriiining Eli, with the cha-
ni^ter of our preferver. He ufed leveral unintelligible word in his devo'ions, of which
he couiJ not tell the meaning himfelf; faying only that he had received them implicitly
from Sf. John the Baptift, and delivered them before his hearers without any ex-
plication.

He taught t! c women a devout hymn, which ho called the Virgin Mary's, as font
from her;, tnis hymn was never delivered in public, hut always in a private hnuft;, or
fome rcmp'.e place, where no eye could fee them but that of heaven ; he perfuaded the
innocent women that it was of fuch merit and efiicacy, that any one who was able to
repeat it by heart would not die in child-bearing ; and every woman paid a (liecp to
the impoftor for teaching her the hymn.

Tlio

MARTIN S VOYAGE TO 8T. KIJ.DA.

7<jy

The place and manner of teaching this hymn afFon'ed him a fair opportunity of dc-
baacbing many of the fimple women ; and this fome of their number acknowledged to
•the minifter and me upon examination.

He prefcribed to all his auditory long rhymes, which he called pfalms ; thefe he or-
dinarily fung at his rhapfodical feachments.

He endeavoured to alter the common way of burying, viz. in placing the faces of the
dead to the eaft, and would have perfuaded them to place th^m to the fouth, and that
he might prevail the more with them fo to do, he fet the bodies of thofe of his own fa-
mily who happened to die in that pofition : but the inhabitants would never follow his
example in this, but continued their former prai.'iUce.

He pcifuaded the women, that if in ail things they complied with his new revelation,
they fliould be undoubtedly carried to heaven, and that in their journey thither they were
to pafs through the firmament riding upon white horfes. Thefe and many more fuch
whims he impofed upon the people, of which this is a Ihort abftra£t.

This unhappy fellow, to confecrate his enterprize, pitched upon a liltle rifing fpot of
ground, which he called John the Baptift's Bulh, upon which he faid thefe oracles were
delivered to him. This bufh was from that time forward believed to be holy ground,
and mud not be trod upon by any of their cattle j if by chance one of them happen to
touch it, it was forthwith to be llain and eaten by Roderick and the owners ; and if any
proved refraftory, and were refolved to fpare their cattle, a moft dreadful commination
was iflued out againfl them, of being thenceforward excluded from any further fellow-
fhip with him, until they ihould acknowledge their faults, and comply with his luxurious
defires, which to difobey he made them believe was damnable. It was reckoned meri-
torious for any body to reveal thofe who had iranfgrefled the ordei*s given by him.

This impoltor continued for feveral years without controul, to delude thefe innocent
well-meaning people, until at laft his villainous defign upon the women was found out,
which he intended to accomplilh under the ma(k of the devout hymn he taught them,
and was firll difcovered by the officer's wife, who the impofiior firll made a profelyte of
to his falfe dodrines, and after that would have debauched her from her conjugal fidelity.
This woman was fo heroically virtuous, as to communicate his lewd defign to her huf-
band, who ordered the matter fo as to be in a room hard by at the time he fuppofed
Roderick would be coining, where he conunued till this letcher began to carefs his wife,
and then he thought himfelf obliged feafonably to appear to her refcue, and boldly re-
proved the impolior for his wicked practices, which were fo widely contrary to his pro-
feflion, and that upon the whole it appeared he had no true mifllon.

The impoltor was very much furprifed at this une.cpefted and fatal difappointment,
which put him into an extrem-^ diforder, infomuch that he alked the officer's pardon,
acknowledged his crime, an ' promifed never to attempt the like again. The officer
continued to upbraid him, telling him he was inftigated by ihe devil ; that innocence and
chalUty were always the effects of true religion, and that the contrary praftices were
countenanced only by falfe prophets ; and that now no other proof 'vas wanting of his
being a notorious deceiver : however the impoftor's great reputation prevailed with the
office: 40 patch up a friendfhip, for the continuance of vhich he condefcenf'> ' to be
Roderick's fponfor at iie baptifm of one of his children ; of which ceremony a; ,'l. :unt
has been given : when there is no opportu I'v ">{ being fponfor to each othei, and it
is thought neceffary to enter into bonds of frjt.idfliip at bapdfm, the inhabitants of the
wellern ifles fupply this ceremony by tailing a drop of each other's blood.

Notwithltanding the frieudlhip thus patched up t . <een the officer ?..a Ilodcrick,-
t\\c lattcr's mifcarriages got air, which admiuiltered octauon to the moft iMr^/iag among.

them

irati MARTINS VOVAOn TO ST. Kit DA.

tJu'in to ddubt r nc!i of his miflion ; his fatiier, who wns n'riUed a very ho'^e'^ rrmn,
told him frcquciiily that he was a dcciivcr, and \vo;ild coiue to a f;!fai end. !• r il.is im-
pollor once proi'luficd tlut one el the inh;ibilanrs (whole nanif I have h ard) lliiuld
be killed in a hattio, to be Fought in the ifljof Harriet, within a liiiiitid Tpace ot lini ;
the utuhii.king man ril)ing on tliis infaliil)le oraclt', vt.-fituie-! nn're di-lpcratelv on i!u;
rock than ufual iancyitig he conid not fall, h.. it if To (.:'.p[ . red ilvit he luniMeii owr
and was drowni d, at which the inha'.itatits wt-r-' a p;coi deal -darn i l.' ; but ilu; iiv^.poltor
flill continued in the exercife of his pretended niiiiicu.

One r'' the iihabit^tnts called MuK' )iiich, a'ins I.e-v;', cfnTm-p, • nar. to this man,
had a ewe which iMouj^ht f(MMh ihree Minims at uae tirhc-., w!acii w.j. :.'ui teeviinj; upon
the facred budi, i^ut Liwis refa! .>d to totnply v.' h the order for killing the i\nc\>, and
had the boldnel's to awr that il i*.:s an uarcalonabie piece of worfliip to dcilroy (o iiiany
cattle, and deprive ih's- owner; r» ihcir property, adding wiihal, that iu- never lirarJ any
fuch thing pradiii. J m any of the weOern iflcs upon \ relii;ions tlou' t. The iinpolior
infiflcd that the heavenly command wa'- to he obfervcd by ail his followers, adding the
dteadiul "hieatoniiig .;.;ainfl fuch as jiroveJ diiob'^dii^nt •. bui Levis njvcrthele's re-
rr.aincd ol Cinate, chufing to be exclud; d foni iuch wou , •' '■«>ih< r than kill his fiieep.

■J he fil!\ people er.pe(fited no kfs th;,;ia li-eedy ji.5 \':merii to bef,:ll this rcculant ; bat
vhej) Dotliii.g in)\>.cd upon his difobedieiice, they all began toliave a 1 Is vcneratiiMi for
th'.' ini: .j.'ur tl.:jn before; and began to think within thtnifelves that they miglu as
W^ !' i:aye vititurcd to run the fame rifque with Lewis for the preiVrvation of their cattle.

N'.f*vith(hirding tliis notorious villainy, the impoftor continued to maintain his au-
Iho. ity, till one night (for it was always at night that he kept his re'igious meetin^;«), by
a fpccial providence, a boy of the ifle of Harries, (who had ftaiii with his father a year
iii St. Kilda, and was employed in mending Jhcir boat) happened to go into the houfe
vheri Roderick was preaching ; the boy lurked in the dark, and gave his father an ac-
count ot what he had heard, at lead fo far as he could remember ; which the boy's
father comtnunicated to the fteward upon his r.rrival, who being highly concerned at
the relation given him, carried Roderick along with him to the ifle of Skie before the
late Mack-Lccd, who forbid him from that time forward to preach any more, on pain
of death.

This was a fcnfible mortification, as well as difappointment to the impoftor, who had
flattered himleif that Mack-Leod would hear him preach, and cxpcded no lefs than to
perfuadc him to become a profelyte, as he has fmce confefTed.

Tiiis fellow alTerts,, that every night after he had aflembled the people, he heard a
voice without faying, " Come ycu out ;" which when he heard, he had no pow^r to
flay within ; and that after his going forth, John the Baptifl always met him, and in-
flruc^ed iiim what he fliould fay to the people at that particular meeting. He lays, that
St. Jolm ufed to repeat the difcourfe to liim only once, which ho ,iwns he could Icarcely
remember one Uiitence of, and therefore he enquired of the laiiit how to behave himfelf
in this cale; that tne anfwerwas, " Go, you have it;" nhich tlie impoftor believing,
"Was upon his return able to deliver fluently all he had heard, and would continue, after
his own way, for ftvcral hours together, to preach until he hau iulled moll of his hearer";
to fleep.

When the earthquake before- mentioned w
him with admiration how the rock was ma
liYviX of uleafant mufick played by a devo-
bour '- ed his love for mufick, bi. >":.

Jiind; ■ ■.WH carried fo great terror r\ i^, a.» it.

(V'/er, one of the inhabitants enqii'^-c e,f

tremble ? he anfwered, tnat it ■• ^.- the

ill a church under ground : his neigh-

wiflied never to hear any more of this

The

MARTIN S VOYAGE TO ST. KIl.DA. 729

The iir.poftor owned the truth of all this account, firft to the minifler anu me, and
then publicly after divine fervice, in the prefencc of all the inhabitants, and fuch as
were come to that place from the ifle ot Harries. The minifter and congregation
jointly prayed for repentance and pardon to this poor wretch, which when ended, we
carried him and all the inhabitants to the bufli pretended to be facred ; he himfelf,
leading the van, was commanded to demoliih that wall which he had ordered to be
built round the faid bu/h (which otherwife would in a (hort time have proved a purga-
tory, to have robbed them of all their goods), which he and the inhabitants did in the
fpace of an hour ; we made them fcatter the (tones up and down in the field, led their
pofterity might fee fuch a monument of folly and ignorance. We reproved the cre-
dulous people for complying implicitly with fuch follies and delufions as were delivered
to them by the impoltor ', and all of them with one voice anfwered, that what they did
was unaccountable ; but feeing one of their own number and (lamp in all refpedts, en-
dued, as they fancied, with a powerful faculty of preaching fo fluently and frequently,
and pretending to converfe with John the Baptift, they were induced to believe his mif-
fion from heaven, and therefore complied with his commands without difpute, and the
rather, as he did not attempt to change their laws of neighbourhood.

They now regret their wandering, and hope that God may pardon their error, as
what they did was with a defign (though a miftaken one) to fervc him.

They are now overjoyed to find themfelves undeceived, and the light of the gofpel
reftored to them, as it was at fird delivered to their anceftors by the firil Chridian
monks, who had gone thither to indru£^ them.

This impodor is a poet, and alfo endued with that rare faculty of enjoying the fecond
fight, which makes it the more probable that he was haunted by a familiar fpirit. It
hath been obferved of him, before his impodure was difcovered, that fo often as he was
employed by the deward to go to, or return from. Harries, they were always expofed
to the greated dangers by violent dorms, being at one time driven fifty leagues to the
north-ead, and by ipecial providence were at lad cad upon the little ifle Rona, twenty
leagues north-ead of Lewis : the deward's wife, and all his crew refle£ling upon thefe
dangers fmce the difcovery of his impodure, could never be prevailed upon to receive
him again into their boat. They often intreated Mr. Campbell and me not to admit
him into our boat, but we did not yield to thefe fears, for we received and brought him
along with us, and afterwards delivered him to the deward's fervants in the ifle of Pabby
in lurries, where he remains dill in cudody in order to his trial.

■1*

•I' <i

')tiltir)l

VOL. 1II«

5 A

!■ ffl

■ ' • : , .' , I

AN ACCOUNT OF HIRTA AND RONA. '

OIVIN To tIR kOBIRT SIBBALD BY THE LORD RBGUTE* SIR QEORaS M<RINZIE, OF TARBAT.

Hirta.

THE Ifland of Hirta, of all the ifles about Scotland, Keth furtheft out into the fea,
is very mountainous, and not accefUble but by climbing . it is incredible what num-
ber of fowls frequent the rocks there ; fo far as one can fee the fea is covered with
them, and when they rife they darken the fky, they are fo numerous ; they are ordi-
narily catched this way : u man lies upon his back with a long pole in his hand, and
knocketh them down as they fly over him. There be many forts of thefe fowls , fome
of them of ftrange Ihapes, among which there is one they call the gare-fowl, which is
bigper than a goofe, and hath eggs as big almoft as thole of the oftrich. Among the
other commodities they export out of the ifland, this is none of the meaneft. They
take the fat of thefe fowls that frequent the ifland and (luff the llomach of this fowl
■with it, which they prcferve by hanging it neaj" the chimney, where it is dried with the
fmoke, and they fell it to their neighbours on the continent, as a remedy they life for
aches and pains.

Their Iheep upon that ifland of Hirta are far diflFerent from all others, having long
legs, long horns, and initcad of wool, a bluilh hair upon them ; for the figure and de-
fcription it feems to approach in refemblance to the ovis C/jilenfis. Some natural hifto-
rians make mention cwf the milk of thofe fheep ; they make butter and a fort of cheefe,
which my Lord Regifter faith pleafes his tafte better than Holland cheefe. They have
no fait there but what they make by burning of fea-tangle, which is very black. Their
greatefl trade is in feathers they fell -, and the exercile they affed mofl is climbing of
Heep rocks : he is the prettied man who ventures upon the mofl inaccefTible, though all
they gain is the eggs of the fowls, and the honour to die, as many of their anceflors, by
breaking of their necks j which Pliny obferves of thefe people, which he calls hyperboreu

Rona. i t. . ■

THE ifland of Rona hath for many generations been inhabited by five families, which
feldom exceed thirty fouls in all : they have a kind of commonwealth among them, in
fo far if any of them have more children than another, he that hath fewer taketh from
the other what makes his number equal, and the excrefcence of above thirty fouls is fent
with the fummer boat to the Lewis to the Earl of Seaforth, their mafler, to whom they
pay yearly fome quantity of meal flitched up in flieeps' fkins, and feathers of fea-fowls.
They have no fuel for fire upon the ifland j but by the fpccial providence of God, the
fea yearly calls in fo much timber as ferves them : their fheep there have wool, but of a
bluifli colour.

There is a chapt! in the midfl of the ifle, where they meet twice or thrice a day. One
of the families is heredii.;'-Y beddall. and the mafler of that ftands at the altar and pray-
cth, the reft kneel upon their knees and join with him. Their religion is the Romifh
religion : there is always one who is chief, and commands the reft, and they are fo well
fatisfied with their condition, that they exceedi^jgly bewail the condition of thofe, as
lupemumerary, they mufl fend out of the ifland,

A BRIE^

n; .:;■ .ir

;ii(..

n^</ 'i: rifi II .

ORKNET, ZETLAND, PIGHTLAND-FIRTH, AND CAITHNJLSS r

WHEREIH, AFTER A SHORT JOURNAL OF t H R AUTHOR's VOYAOE THITHER, TH8SI! NORtHtRN
rLACBS ARC FIRST MORI GENERALLY CESCKIUHbi i ''U,iyj

THIN A PARTICULAR VIEW IS GIVEN UF THE (EVERAb liiLEI THERETO BBUOHGINOi
TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF WHAT IS MOST RARE AND R liMA R K ABM TH EREIM J WITMTHB
. , ■.,,-, author's ousekvatiuns thkrkupun. , < .»

;.' K-' ••'• «' Jir JOHN BRANDS ./ , "l '..j l,..t,.,T!>. t .,',;I

.,i * , I , . ' . ,^ ,. \.

'\r. >).

:•■ i .1

^1 :•■.• i i , • •• .

TO HIS ORACB JAMES DUKE OF HAMILTON. ^ ].),
MAY IT PLEASE YOUR GRACE,

UPON my return from Zetland, as bound in duty, I paid my refpefts to your Grace,
who was pleafed to aik if I had kept a diary ? which I acknowledged, but could
not fliew it, till the remarks therein contained were tranfcribed, which when done,
your Grace (hould have them to glance at fome leifure hour. Thus your command
giving rife to thiti undertaking, I have prcfumed to make the dedication to your Grace.

The noble ano' illuftrious family of Hamilton, the firft in the nation, ftandeth in no
need of panegyrics from me to fet forth its eminency. His Grace your father, was very
inftrumental m I'ettling the peace and quiet of this kingdom at the late merciful and
wonderful revolution, as became a patriot of his country ; under whofe prefidency, in
the convention of eftates, the government of our church was reftored, which fmce hath
been confirmed by the fubfequent parliaments.

In his furviving confort, your pious mother, thefe endowments and qualifications
requifite in the confort of a prince hav^ ininently fliined forth, which will embalm her
name to fcccet^uing generations : her like vife being fo very helpful to many afflifted
ones, both in the former years of this churct . . ■' Irefs and trouble, and in the latter of
great fcarcity and dearth, flit knowing how v.iu.iile are the blefHngs of thofe who were
ready to perifh.

Your Grace's honourable appearance for, and acknowledgment of, pre(byter*an go-
vernment iij the laft feflion of parliament, was acceptable to many ; and I hop. our
Graf e fliall never have caufe to repent of your continuing to favour the ancient g. .i-
ment of this church, v I:ich as it is conform to the fcripture plan, fo the Lord hath oeen
gracioufly pleafed to own and countenance it, in the great things he hath done for and
by the minifters ar«d prnfefTors thereof.

Among thefe things for which you (land obliged to the wife condu£t of providence,
one is, that you have been fo well directed in the happy choice of your conforts. Your
prefent lady of a fwect and gentle temp v '\ v carriage obliging and difcreet to all ; her
loving to entertain pious and religious ciiicourfe ; her modeft and exemplary drefs : I
wifli me may prove a blefling to your illuftrious family, and be as Rachel or as Leah,
which two did build up he thoufe of Ifrael.

Your noble brother Lord George hath been created, by our prefent gracious King,
F.arl of Orkney, for his heroick appearances, under the aufpicious conduft of our King,
who was pleafed to take notice thereof, fomc of thefe being under His Majefty's view j

1 I;

Edinburgh, 1701.
5 A 2

fivo.

and

^'^^

' ■Ss.m^

73^

■hand's description of OIIKNZ.Y,

and in (efliinony of his royal favour, dignify him with this honotirable title, which in
the years of ancient times nath blazoned the efcutcheons uf kings.

The branches of your illuflrious family do flourilh in I'evend parts of the nation,
though God in his holy providence hath made lately a breach thereupon, to your grief,
and the nation's lofs.

Your Grace's relation to the ancient and honourable family of Douglas, gives me
occafion ti* r jition that old alliance betwixt that houfe and the princes of Orkney.
Will'iM LoTil o: ' iiddifdale, commonly called the Bbck Douglas, by Egidia or Giles,
dau^ !jer 0.; King Robert II., had a daughter of the fame name married to Henry Sli^
chir, ufualty ftyled Knight of the Cockle, of the GartiT, and Priru e of Orkney^ To
hiia fucceeded his fun William Sinclair, married to Elizabeth Douglas, daughter to
Archibald Earl of Douglas, firnamcd Tineman ; whofe titles were. Knight of the
Golden Fleece and of the Cockle, Prince of Orkney, Duke of Holdenburgh, Earl of
Caithnefs, Lord Sinclair L. '. '^iddrfdale. Great Admiral of Scotland, &c.

My Lord, the knowieugo of hiftory is ihat which the mod of men are taken with, as
being both pleafant and ufeful ; aad it cannot but (lain the reputation of anv, though
able to give account of what is rare in other countries, if they be igno»^<»nt of their own,
and places which depend thereupon, where things no lefs remarkable do occur, whicn
may both oxcrcife the ingenious, and edify the gracious inquirers. *

But above all, bU-flVd are ihcy who make a religious improvement of natural obferve?,
and ufe all arts and fciences as hand-maids to religion anJ piety. The knowledge of
Chrift is the queen of fciences } hence a learned Paul " determineth to know nothing
Lut Chrift and him crucified ;" and thofe who in all ages have been wife uiiro falvation,
have preferred Chrift's crofs to the world's crown : and with Mofes, " reckoned his
worlt things better than the world's befl." The knowledge of all other things without
the knowleJ;;c of Chrift, is as a fliadow without the fubdancc, and a body without ti.e
head, as fome have inftitutcd the comparifon ; yea 'hey are a'vt 'toi without niind and
judgment : the cardinal virtues, as they are called, ui ly be attaint I in fli y, but not in
trutii, Quid enim iHis cum virtutibm qui Dei virtutcm Chrijlum ignorant . dl the gloiy
and grandeur of the world, laid in the balance with this piece of I'avincj . liw ledge, is
but :,s a grnin weight to counter-balance a huge mountain : hence a notable laying of ;i
truly noble lortl, when let upon by the Jefuitsto change his religion, teniptuij^ , m with
fpleiulid and rich offers, " Let their money (faith he) periOi with them, who think all
the glory of the woild worth one day's communion wi;h Jefus Chrift.' And truly it
is but fmall gain the moll painful and able ftudent doth reap, if after all his labour a
the records of antiquity aid refearches of nature, and it may be through the maare of
intric; dirqui^tion he 1 I' his foul, and notwithftanding of all his learning be thruil
into hei!> being forced to cry out on death-bed, as it is reported the IcariK'd Grotius
once did. Ah vitam j rJiJi, opcrcfe nihil agendo.

My I Old, I hope if \s\\\ not prove "mlavory to your Grace that I have a little en.
largcd this epiftle, in commending of Chrift and reHgion, which fo much tranfcendeth
our commendation and prailie, whence fo many advantages do accrue to us, and among
others, when there are ear'v impreflions of piety v n any, the confcicnce for ever after
ufeth to hang about • lem, notvithftandfng the tenor of their lives hath bi-en aflfaulted

is. l hat your Grace may ftill continue to be a true lover of
i-calou-^ afferter of her rights and liberties, is and Ihall be the defire

with manifold ten'
your country, and
of him who is.

May it pleafe your Grate,
Your Grace's moft humble and moil dutiful fervanr,

JOHN BRAND,

ZKrLANO, PIUtlTLAND-PlRTK, AND CAITHNESS.

... .-^_ ' ; , ,

PREFACE TO THE READER. ,-

73i

I SHALL not Infift on an apology Nvhy I trouble the fweafing prcfs, though I might
ufe and plead the common topics taken from the advice and importunity of others,
and to prevent the publilhinc of fome of thefe remarks, excerpt from my papers, by
fomc into whofe hands they Iiad fallen, after they had lien by me fcviral months.

There are feveral grave perfons in thofe ifles of good and folid judgment, both mi-
niders and others, who being better acquainted with the places of tl lir ordinary refi.
dence than it can be luppufed I had occafion to be, might have publilhed fomething
more valuable on this Iwad, and fit their remarks in a clearer light ; as likewife fnnie
of my dear brethren of the commiflion might have done it to greater advantage. Yet
the engagements that lay on me to tranfcribe the moft remarkable occurrences, and the
folicitation of fome thereupon to publilh thcin, have fome way obliged me to iUHko this
appearance. However if others hereby Ihall be excited to ferve the public, by giving
a fuller and clearer defcription of thefe generally little known places, this effay will not
prove altogether unufiful y and if 1 had knuwa that any intended to have publifhed
fomething of this nature^ the world had not been troubled with my fcribbling.

I hope none will judge that I a£t without my line, in giving defcnptions of this nature,
feeing all are called to •' remember the works of the Liw J and talk of his doings," as
they have occafion : and all along I endeavour to keep in mind the charafter I bear,
dropping fomething of a fpiritual miprovement.

Our hiftoriaiis, fuch as I have confiilted, have given but a very brief and lame, and'
in ibme things a falfc, account of thofe places, efpccially Zetland, which is unknown to ^
the moft of the nation, if not that they have only heard there were fuch ifles asthe-
Zttlandick. It is true, there is one Mr. Wallace, a late minifter in Orkney, who hath
gratified the world by giving a defcriptioa of the Orkney ifles j but neither /etbnd nor
Caithncfs doth he medillc with : and as to Orkney, there are feveral things which dc-
ferve their own reniar'c he makes no mention of; and others have fallen out fince his
time, which 1 have noticed: fo that, on the whole, the account now giwn even of
Orkney will appear aliuoft new to any who (hall be pleafed to compare, the two dc- -
fcriptions together.

No doubt but fuch as know thefe places will defiderate feveral things no lefs remark- -
able thaa what are obferved ; but itill my reader would renwmbvr that this is but a ■
diary tranfcribed. Yet this 1 may fay, as I have not willingly fuflered myfelf ti>be im-
poled on, fo neither have I intpofed any thing on the cretlulous world, but delivered
fuch things which either I was witnefs to, or had good ground to bolieve from perfons
worthy of credit j fo that if any thing appear queftionaWe, I have ordinarily in general
given my author for it.

I fuppofe the judicious re.tJc^.r, in perufmg the following fliaets, will find things both
curious and inftruftive, affording matter of meditation to the wife obfervers of Provi-
dence.

As to any philofophical or philological obferves, as I am unfit for, fo am I far from a
magifteriaJ dilating of them to any, but foberly propofed my own fentiuients, which if
my read<r do not re!i(h, he may follow his own.

Although the ftyle be not quaint and elegant, embellilhed with the ornaments of art,
yet I hope it will be found plain and intelligible ; and though fometi4nes obliged to ex-
prefs inyfelf in the diak-et or idiotifna of the country, yet ordinarily fuch words and
phrafeJ; are fome way cxplafned : fo when I fpeak of Orkney or Zetland, iis not in Scot-
land, though depending thereupon, I exprefs myfelf as the country do.

5 As

* !■;

BRAND d UESCRtPTTON Of r.iir»!KY,

As to the commiflions work 1 have not mfdJIed 'h fjwitlj, cxa-pt when the thread
of the hidory did require me to touch it. However, i.iis I may aJil, our weak endca-
\'ours fur the advancimeut of the interefl of our Lord Jcfus in thel'e remote corners
have not been found by fuperior judicatories altogether unfuccelsful ; and I fuppofe U
repents none of us oi our voyage thitiier, however dangerous it did prove.

A DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEr, l/e.

INTRODUCTION.

IT IS a principle generally acknowledged, that all men in their feveral flations, a-rcor-
ding to their capacities, are carefully to fludy the maintaining and promi/ting of the
cood and interefl of that kingdom, nation, or focioty, whereof they are members ; for
if it go not well with the public in common, jt cannot reafonably be thought that the
happinefs of any in particuliir can long continue, more than it can go well, with the fe-
veral members of a natural body, w hen the body itfelf is diftreifeil. It was this generous
love and concern for their country that fo fignalifed the ancient Romans, and made
them in a (hort time arrive to fuch a height of glory and honour : unto this did their
philofophcrs, poets, and orators warmly excite their fellow-citizens, fo that the more or
the lefs any laid out themfelvcs this way, their achievements accordingly were reputed
noble and heroic, and their perfons renowned.

Yet much more will we find ourfelves bound to advance one another's good, if we
look on ourfelves not only as men and members of the body politic, but as Chriflians
and members of that body, whereof Chrift is the head ; therefore our love of, care for,
and fympathy with one another, is much commended in holy fcripture, which the apodle .
well illullrateth in feveral places by that appofite and elegant fimilitude of the members
of a natural body, their confpiring to the mutual good of one another ; and cxprefsly
commandeth, " Look not every man on his own things, but alfo on the things of
others;" and the want thereof he doth heavily regret in the lame chapter: " For I
have no man likeminded, who will naturally care for your ilate : for all fcek their own,
not the things which are Jefus Chrifl's :" which felfifh and narrow fpirit, as it hath too
much prevailed in all ages of theCliriflian church fmce the days of the apoltles; fo in npne
more than iliisof ours.as the learned Owen obferveth, imputing the fliameand the almoll
juin of Cihriflianity thereunto. " The Lord Chrifl (liiiih he) hath ordained that the
Tneinbers of the fam-j church and fociety fhould mutually watch over one another, and
the whole body over all the members urito their edification ; and that the praftice of it
is fo much loft as it is, is the fhanie and almofl ruin of Chriflianity."

But niore efpecially thefe cloathed with authority civil or ecclefiaftic ftand obliged to
iliis public care, miuillers being as pilots or governors under (Mirifl to the fliip of the
vhurch, as nmqiflratis under God arc to that of the flate. And the charge of miniflers
having a more imtnediatc rffpicH tu the foul and better part of man, they are called the
more diligently to take heed thereto, and lo to fleer their courfe through the boillerous
lea oi this world, as that not only they themfelves at length may arrive and reft at the
f;tir-haven;: of Iriunanucrs land, but that alio through grace they may carry along many
with them embarked on the fame bottom of the covenant, by the means of word and
dilcipline. Minirtcrs are ilewardp, watchnun, fhepherds, bifhops, or overfeers, &c. ;
all uhich do imply a charge to be difcharged by them for the good of others.

Miniftcrs

KBTLAND, PIOHTIAND'yiRTH, AKU CAITHNlSfl.

73i

Mintfters may be confidcrod in a threefold relatirtn. i. As ChrlP'ans related to Chrift,
which is common to them with all believers. 3. As iniitiners, rml ivatcd to that parti-
cular church or portion of the church in general, the infpetl) n whi?)-cof is afligncd to
them, and in which more efpeciully and immediately they art ■ H' i 10 labour, -k. At
they (land related to the church national, whereof they are minillers, whofe good they
are to endeavour, as God in his holy and wile providence fhall aiN)rd them accefs. And
that in all thefe refpefls minillers may the more approve themlclvcs unto their great
Lord and Madcr, according to his appointment, the »po(Ues' example, and the pradice
of the church in all ages, they do aduciate themit Ives unto councils, nieetings, or afll'ii:.
blies, more or lefs general , that fo by common counftl and confent thty may confult tho
intered of the church of ChrKl wittiiu their rcCpeflive diftridls and bounds ; which us
it hath been the laudable praQice of other churches, fo of the church of Scotland, ever
fince her firft reformation from popery.

For which ond the general aifembly of this national church moved with zciil for the
glory of God, hath travelled much fince the late happy Revolution in planting tlie
north of Scotland, and, that they might not be wanting in vifiting the utiiioil bounds
thereof, with the ides thereto belongmg, have deputed I'everal comminions, who, re-
pairing thither, might upon the place taKe under their confidcration the concerns of the
church of Chrift ii> thefe corners, and determine therein as they fhoutd fee caufo, ac-
cording to the word of God, and adts of allemblies of this church. Particularly o:v!
was fent to Caithnefs and Orkney, anno 169S, who did God and his church good fcr*
vice there.

In like maaner the general aflembly, anno 1700, upon the defire of certain minifters
in Zetland, and information of the (late of aflairs in thefe remote iflanJs, found it no
ceflary to depute a commifllon thither, confiding of feven minifters and one ruling;
elder; with power not only to vifit and order the churches there, but likcwile to
concur with and allift the prefbyteries of Orkney and Caithnefs, as there llioulJ b<s
occafion.

Of this commiffion the author, being one, defigns a brief defcription of thefo re-
markable parts; after a Ihort journal of l;is voyage thither, with fume curlbry ob«
ferves thereupon.

V /;,' •

7 to Orkney, and thence t*
' Caithnefs ; together with

Chap. \.— Containing a brief Journal of our Voyage , 'n '
Zetland ; as Hkewife of our Return from Zetland d'
a fummary Account of the remarkable Dangers i^''- i / .-

ON Friday, April 12, 1700, about fix a lV' ' -omi.ig., we fct fail from

Leith for Orkney, the wind fair though faint, whic 11 . able to bear us up agai'ut
the tide, we dropt anchor two miles eall of Inch-Keith, wbere we lay from ten till three
in the afternoon, when a briflc gale arifing, we weighed anchor, and failed down the
Firth, the fliip making fo good way, that before next morning at break of day we were
paft Montrofs.

On Saturday the wind leffened, yet about fun fct we pad Peterhead, fteering towards
the point of Kinnair, leaving the Bridges of Ratruy (a ridge of blind rocks) on our lar-
board. Next uiorning, being the Lord's Day, with a gentle wind, we made the bed
of our way through Murray Firth, fpending the day in religious exercifes with the
mariners and fome paffengers in company with us. When before Peterhead we fa\V
the fins of a great fifti, about a yard above the water, which they call a pricker ; alfo

3 about

ill

7i^

brand's UaSCRIPTlON OF ORKNEY,

about ten at night, a whale was feen by the help of moonlight, at a Httic diflance from
our (hip, carting I'orth the water in a hideous manner.

Next moniing about feven o'clock we got fight of Orlcncy, and the wind blow-
ing fomewhat harder than it had done the former night, in the atte- \oon we pafTd
the ea(l end of Pightland-firth, which, though ordinarily raging with the imp^tuous
current of a fca, by reafon of the many tides meeting there, yet we fjund it not fo ;
but in the midft of that part we paffed, dined upon deck, fo moeiinir with lealt danger,
where we feared the grcatefl. We put into Holms-found, and arrived there about leven
at night, on the Monday after our feitinc fail.

The (hip's crew told us, that though tney had frequently fallpd thefe feas to a^id from
Orkney, yet never had tht«y a better or pleufanter voyage : which providential tavour
was the more obfervable, the wind, next day after we landed, blowing frrong from thf
north, and lading feveral days. Which, if it had come on before we had accomp-iflietl
our voyage, we would not only have been blown back to fea, but tliereby a temped
arifuig, we had been in no finall danger. We defireil to look upon 'his as a fignal mercy,
and a token for good.

We would have hired our bark to Zetland, but the mafter being under charter-
party, was obliged to return with a fraught of victual to Lc-i(h,and not having the (xca-
fion of any other fliip or bark, we were forced to hire one of thefe open Ixiats ot about
fixty meils, which theO;kney men ufe ft)r carrying victual to Zetland, elle we could not
go for Zetland this leafon, though the miniilers and others told us our pafTuge iiiight
prove dangerous.

•Our (lay in Kirkwall, the chief town in Orkney, (a(fifting that prefbytery in foilie of
their atfairs w.is from the i6th to the 27th of April, when with three minifters of this
country on the commiihon, we took boat for Sanda, about thirty miles north-eaft from
Kirkwall, and in our way to Zetland, having ordered our own boat to follow with the
firil fair wind. We pur off about two in tht.' afternoon, the men rowing with fix oars
about half way, when the wind rifing fon ething favourable, with a little fail and four
oars we got over Stronza-firth. 'i'hough, as we came near our landing-place in Sanda,
the increafing wind raifed the waves (o high, that fometimrs they intercepted the fight
of the ifland. Yet we all got fafe on fliore betwixt nine and ton at night. The mercy
of our efcapt was tlie more remarkable, that our boat was liironged with palTengcrs,
and fo oveil aden that the water came almoft ro her brini ; to that if the lea had not
been fmooth and calm when we palTed through Stronza- firth, wo had been probably
all lod : as thefe who had knowledge of thofe feas did afterwards declare unto us.

We waited in Sanda for a wind from April 27 till May 9, when the wind prefenting,
we went totheifleofEda, lying a little to the veil of Sanda, where our boat was, but
before we could get aboard, the wind fliifted to fouth-cad and tlu-n to ead and by
fouth, which was too fcrimp to fetch Z^'land ; hov/ever the wind now being very
changeable, wc judged it expedient for us to lie near our boat, aiid lav hold on the
firft tKcafion : (o May 1 1, the wind at f uth-ead, we put to foa, but fcarce well were
we wiihout the Red-head of Fda, when the wind proving contrary, we returned to
C.alf-found May 12, being the Lord s-Day wo fpent in religious exerciiVs with the people
of the iOe-; in the evening the wind turning fair, we refolved next morning early to get
aboard, if the wind neld. This lad night, alter v e reiurned to Calf-found, was terrible
for wind and r.iin from th» wed, (the wind loon altering, after we had got in again
to CalFfound) with which we could not have kept the fea, in all probability. A great
mercy then it was, that we were determined to return, and did not keep the fea, as fotne
advifed, for, though within half an hour after we had got inro the found, the wind

turned

ZETLAND, PIGHTLAND ?1RTH, ANO CAITHNESS.

737

turned fair, yet being too ftrong, the fea became foul and tempeftuous, which was not
for our open boat.

Monday morning, May 13, about two o'clock, we were called to go aboard,
which we did accordingly ; the wind at weiT:, or weft and by north, the gale was brifk,
but not very great, which we were glad of, thereby expe(fl;ing a fpccdy paflage : fo we
with two other boats in company loofed, but fcarce were we a league without the iioads,
when we faw a ftorni of wind and rain making in the weft, whence the wind blew, where-
upon one of the boatmafters in company advifed us to tack about, and endeavour to fetch
Calf-found again ; which counlel we, judging to be fafe, accordingly cllliyed to follow
it, but the wind and fea riling more boifterous, and the current of tht; ebb being ftrong
from the found, we could not by any means elleiftuate our dofign, though we made fe-
vcral trips not without danger ; the fea wiih its broken and fwclling waves tlireaten-
iiig to fvvallow us up every moment : the mariners ftood by their fails, ciying, this work
was very dangerous ; and at one time, as one of them obferved the boat had taken in
about ten barrels of water, the pump was ftill kept going, we judged ourielves to be
loft men, and fome exprelfed fo much. In thefe itraits we defired the boatmaitcr fit-
ting by the helm, to lee if he could make any other harbour or bay ; he anfwered,
*' God have mercy on us, for the fea wo daro not keep, and there is not another har-
bour in Orkney we can make ;" the men were fatigued with the toil of their hard work,
and almoft at the giving over. We then knew to our experience the meaning of that
Scripture, Pf. 107. 27. of fuamen in a ftorm's being at their wit's end. Though the
wind was fair for Zetland, yet we duril not hold on our courfe, the fea not only being
tempeftuous, but we had alio feveral roufts, or impetuous tides to pais, and then the
ebb was in the fea, which made them 16 much the more dangerous. Thus (Iraitened,
we thought it advifeable to go down with ft,'me fail before the wind to the north end of
Sanda, and endeavour to get into Ott'^rfwick or T,iphncfs-bay ; we firft attempted
Ottorfwick, and left we fhould have been blown by the bay's mouth, we held fo near
land, th;it the boat beat fevera! times upon a rock, however we got in and dropt an-
chor on the weather-fide of • .le lliorc.

We were all much refrelhed witli this great deliverance from fo imminent a danger.
When we had ridden fome hours at anchor, the wind an.l lea calmed. About feven at
night, o.ie of the boatmafters in company, who had entered th? bay a little before us,
weighed anchor and put to fea again. Some of our number were for lying ftili, till
the weather was bettor fettled ; other.? thought that feeing God had commanded a
calm, that we had a favourable wind, that the ll;y appeared to be well fet and pro-
mifing, and that the other loadened boat had gone to fea bei'ore us, it might foem from
thefe things Providence invited us to fea again : whereupon we put oil, but belore we
had come the length of North Ronaliha, fcari-e a league dilhmt frotn the bay we had
been in, the wind became fo faint, that tiio mariners look ti>em to their oars to help
them through North Ronalflia Rouft, thence when we came to Dennis- Rouft^ wo made
fome way with our fails without oars, the tide then turning and the Hood beginning to
run in the fea.

'I'uefday, May 14, about one or two in the morning, the wind fliifted to ei'ft-lbuth-
eaft, then to ealr, and our boatmafter telling us, that he was forced to Ile-.'r a northern
courfe, clfe he could not bear lail, and fo holding on, not a ftone in Zetland he could
hit, as he exprolll-d himrelf, we all judged it mod proper to return to Orkney : v. hen
we had tacked aliout, the wind iliifted to north-eaft, a ftrong gale, together with groat
rains, which caufed a rolling and afwelling fea,- (for rains here without winds do raile,
or ciuiker, (as ilioy term it) the foa, and much more when wiiid and rain cjme on at,

vol,, J II. 5 B once J

■.m

!#■■

■■1 !i

I ,;

5'Pii'

7i^

brand's description of ORKNEY,

once; however we got in fafely to Stronza-road, which was the readied wc could n-^ake.
It was a happy providence that wc then returned at that nick of time, lor the fl<^od not
being all fpent, wc were thereby llkewife ha'tcne.! in our way- fo that within a fjw
hours we came to our port, though, as wa^ rrchoned, we were near midway between
Orkney and Fair Ifle, The ftorm increal'cd with the day, and ajnr our landinj.^ it was
fo very great, that wc were obli'ijed to keep within doors for fevtral hours: aiid if th(n
we had been at fea, it is terrible fonts to think upon the dilnial rffrcls which mi.;ht
have followed thereupon, for, without all peradventure, we had ecrtainly periihed, it tho
Lord by foinc wonder of mercy had not refcucd us, as indeed he Inid ["nnuer'y done.
*' O that wc would praife the Lord for his goodncfs, and for his woiuleiiul woiks to the
children of men ;" and that fo long as we live, wc may never forget the 13th and 14th
davs of May, wherein the Lord wrought a great deliverance for us.

Thus being difcouragcd, we were in great perplexity, not knowing what to do,
whether to make any further attempt, or to return home, re iiifcfhi, feeing God in his
providence had fo eroded us hitherto, and it might be his mind we (hould not go for-
ward. Upon thcfe fluctuating and perplexing thoughts, we a Iked God's mind in the
matter, after which more light did arife, and we unanimoufly refoived yet to try what
the Lord would do with us.

Friilay, May 17, between eight and nine in the morning, wind and fky promifing-
well, wc put to fea, and pafled the Fair Ifle, about five afternoon, keeping it on our
ftarboard, then our gale increafing, hut continuing fair, at fouth-well we made good
way. About midnight we pad'ed Swinburgh head, thj fouthernmolt: point of land in
Zetland, having thence tv/enty-four miles fail up within land to Lerwiek, whither we
were bound, 'i'he wind growing more vehement, we lowered our mainfail, and look
in a riff; with the breaking of tlie day there arole a mill, whereby we could fcarcc fee
land, however we judged it fafeft to keep as near it as we could, and iailed away by the
coaft ; but being topafs through a found, h wing tiieifle of Muia on our ftarboard, and
Burra Land on our larboarvi, our feamen miRook the point of IMufa, taking another
point in the mainland for it, and tiie mift lying on, we were alinoit engaged in the
kmd, and fo would have fallen among the rocks, which they coming to fufpetl: held to
fea, refolving to fail without ilie point, wliich they did with difliculty, the boat being
fo clofe haled, and the blalt fo great, that the helm a-lce was fcarce able to command
licr and keep her by the wind : which, when they had done, came to difcover their
error. Hence failing through Mufa-found, we came to Bralla-found, and arrived at
Lerwick on Saturday about four o'clock in the morning.

We had a quick paflage, failing about a hundred uules in nineteen or twenty hours
time : efpecially confidering that we were not half an hour on ihore, when a flrong
wind blew from the north, which if it had come on but a little fooner, we would have
been driven back to fea. There is likcwife another providence remarkable, that we
had only an ordinary dcfirabie gale, when we pafl'ed the Fair lile, where always there
j^oes a great rolling fea, but when within the heads of the land of '/ethmd we had
it very Itrong, fo that fcarcely we could have wrelUcd and held out againll it in the
ocoan.

We arrived in Zetland May 18, and, having brought to fomc period and clofe our
principal work there, we fet fail for Orkney, June 11, fiduting and bidding heartily
farewell to the minillers, and lome gentlemen of the country, and to the moll con-
fiderable inhabitants of Lerwick, who kindly accom[)anied us to nur boat. Wo loft
Zetland Tuefday, June 1 1, about fiv:' afternoon, and having the wind at north-well or
uurth-wcll and by north, wc paffed the Start-head of Sanda about four ne.xt morning,

10 and,

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND-FIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

739

and, endeavouring to fct into ICetteltaft in Sanc'a, to put one of the minifters of that
ille afliore ; out boat, throujrh our boatniafter's in:< Jvertency, flruck on ;i rock, without
fudaininfr any damage we kntw ; but the wind not permitting to turn up to that road,
we all came to Kill- nail, and arrived there before nine in the morning. Our paflage
from Zetland to Orkney was yet quicker than it was from Orkney to Zetland, we being
but fixteen hours in running one hundnd and twenty, or, as fome fay, one hundred
;md twenty-dght miles. Staying in Orkney a k\v days, wc pafTed Pightland-firth to
Caithnels, and having difpatched our work in ccnjundion with the prelbytcry there,
we came home by land, repaiiing with joy to our rL'\cral charges, where we may fet
up our Eben-Ezcr, faying " Hitherto hath the Lord helped us."

I think we are call'.'d ferioufly to rcflcdl upon the manner of the Lord's dealings with
us, we have been long detained and croflcd in our way to Zetland, though we made
fcveral attempts to go forward ; as to our commiflion we were appointed by the ge-
neral alTcmbly of this church, and it being put upon us without any defire of ours, or
inclination that way, we accordingly undertook our voyage, and came with a favour-
able gale to Orkney : it is true, that there arc natural caufes of wind and rain, whereof
we are to make a fpiritual improvement, efpecially when they do impede or promote
our defign ; moreover God's judgments are a great depth, and by the courfe of nature,
in giving greater or leifer winds at his pleafure, he may carry on his more general works
of providence, and yi.'t thereby more efpecially intend thepuniihment of the wicked, or
the chaftifement of his people, which they are called to confider and improve : and as
true it is, God in his wife fovcreignt" may fo deal with his people, for the trial of their
faith and other graces, thst they may be ftill and know that ho is God, ruling as he
pleafeth among the children of men : the devil alfo who is the prince of the power of
the air may have an evil and mahcious hand in things of this nature, efpecially when
men purpofe to do good, which tends to the overthrow of his kingdom. O that what
we have met with may be fo bleffed as to render us more zealous againft him and all
lyi, whereby his kingdom is e(tabli(hed m the world, " That we may fight with devils,
and be more than conquerors through him who loveth us." I fay though thefe things
and the like fometimcs may and ought to be had a regard unto, yet I do humbly judge
"that upon thele fo very dreadful dangers we have in great mercy efcaped, wc are called
to examine ourlolv^^, and fearch unto our fins as we are Chriftians and as we are minif-
ters, for which the Lord may have a controverfy with us; our not being fo faithful in
our perfonal and palloral work, in working our own and others falvation ; our impa-
tience in noi wailing the Lonl'b time, but being too anxious to be in Zetland at any
rate : and it is like in our not being fo fmgle in our ends iu going as we ought to be,
&c. 1 couidude ilii. chapter as the Pfalmid doth Pf cvii. reflc«5ling on the wonders of
Provid'.'uci.', "■ \V!io is wile, and will obierve thofe things, even they fhall underfland the
loving-kindneis vil the Lon'."

Chap. II. — J Dcfcriptbn of Orhuy, Us Situation, Name, frft Planters^ Language,
Manners of the People^ Wbohfomemfs if the Air, Corns, ^e.

THE Ides bfloniiing to Scotland have commonly been divided into three clafTes :
the wellern, fcaflered in the D.-uealedonian Ocean, on the welt:, the Orkney and Zct-
landick, both lying to the North of Scotland. i\s to the Wedern Ifles, though in
number far exceeding both the illes of Orkney and Zetland, yet 1 take no rtotice thereof,
in the fublequcnt delcriplion : our coumudion not being ileputed thither, lb only the

5 B a latter

\'mm\

HU'

iHiiii

740

BRAND S DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

Iff'?''

latter lliall I give feme brief account of, not intending to advance any tliinj^, but what
I have either Ibund to be true from my own obfervation, or had by j;ood information
from fenfible and grave perfous worthy of credit : and fhall begin with Orkney, as
ord.'r requirelh, we fu'ft hmdiiig there.

Orkmy lies to the north of Scotland, bounded on the weft by tlie Deucaledonian
ocean; on the call, by the German ; on the north, by the fea, which divides Or), ey
from Zetland ; and on the fouth, by Pi|;htland Firth, twelve miks broad, from Dun-
gilbic-Ilead or John Groat's houfe, the northern-aioll houfc in Scotland to Berwick in
South Ronaldlha, the fouthermoft point of Orkney. It is commonly laid to be about
the fifty-ninth degree of latitude at Kirkwall which lies within the country ; thouj^h the
fouthernmoft point of South Ronaldlha, is diltant from the northeriuuolt of North
Ronaldlha near a degree.

'I'hat Orkney or Orcades is tl;e name of thefe iflcs is agreed in by ancient and modern
writers, but of the etymology and whence the name is derived, none I fuppofe will be
found to give a fatistying account. Some alledging it to come from Orcas which
Ptolomy reckons to be a promontory of Caithnefs, oppofite to Oi'kney ; others from
the Greek word iipxi.' ccercco, thefe ifles breaking and reflraining the force of the rag-
ing waves : or from Hiirricano, becaule of tiie boifterous winds and hurricanes which
often blow in this coui try : or from Evick or Orkenwald, or fome other Pitbfh prince
famous there at its firft plantation. Which derivations, fome of them at leall cannot
but appear far-fetcht to the thinking reader : and indeed many in givis.g the realons of
names, do rather pleafe their own curiofity than render a true account of their ori/inal ;
feeing the reafons generally of the ancient names of countries are buried in oblivion,
through the want of .vriters, and negled of thefird inhabitant;;!, cfpccially in thefe parts
of the world, wherein learning more llowly advanced.

The firll planters, and poircifcrs of the country leom to have been the Pifls, there being
fevera! old houfes, both here and in Zetland, which to this day are called I'icls or
Pight Houfes-, and the Firth between Orkney and Caithnefs is itill called Pi^du-land
Firth ; whereupon fome of our hiltorians, as Boethius, writing of the Ifles of OrkiK-y,
doth obferve, defign Orkney the molt ancient kingdom of the I'ids ; OrchiuLs mjula,
aniiqu'tfftmum Pidorum irynum a quihufdinn nojlrarum rcrum fcriptoribus vocitiita. And
we hnd mention made ot the Kings of Orkney, as Buchanan tells us of one Belus who
having invaded Scotland was defeated and put to flight by Ewea 11. King of Scot;., kill-
iiig mod of hisan.iv, upon which Brlus being much difccuraged and broken in Ipirit,
ddpairing of life, put hand in himfilf; and became his own execuiioner. Boe-
thius calls him Balus ; fl.ilus aulem Orchadum rex fnidtn animo, difpcrjld Jldutc, nc in
hMium potcjijlcmvenirct, manumjibi intiifit. AwA iii the church of Birla at the Well eml
of tht; niaitiland in Orkney, there is a long (lone \q*- (landing tr^ct, viih the name Belus
infcrib(.d thereon in ancr/iit charaders ; probably this v. as the place of his intortiient.
Alfo the minilUr of Sanii wick's Manl'e is laid to have been the rcfuience of one ofthi;
kings of Picls, and tliereioro to this dny is called Koiinifgar, or the Kin;>*s lloule; and
that |)art of ihe manfe, which th';y fay lerved tor the pal.tce of a king is {o Hitlc, lhou;.^h
now kept i.i (ome n.pair, tha": it could not accommodate a family ol an orJii;.!ry x,\o.k j
thf r j;ure t'n'reof ;muI contrivance of its tv.o rooms or (.haiiibers one above and an-
other bttcw, (.fnarro-. • dimenlions, are antique, aud the 1-uilding hath been bi.t coarie.
Bt'i thins likewife tells of .■■tiothcr King called Banus, whom Claudius Ciefar having fub-
dutd a'ln '''.hrijio 45, he carried him with his v^ife and children c.ipuve to Rome, and
wt're led by him in iriomph : Bucliiaian qui;llions the truth of this hillory, Tacitus af-
firming^ that ^iart of Bruaia theix to \\uvc been altogether unknowx. to the Romans, iicc

6 icmcrg

ZETLAND, PIGHTLAKD-FIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

741

iemere inmen credidcrim quod mjlri tradunt fcriptores he. quod Tacitus affirmet ante Jutii
JgricolcF (idvcrjuni^ earn Britannia partem /> onianis onmino incognitam fuiffc. But if Boe-
thius his relation be true, the vanquifliing of Orkney hath been reputed fomething con-
fiderable, feeing not to every conqueror was allowed by the Roman Senate, the glory of
a triumph.

It is alio probable the government of thefe ifles continued uith the Pidifli Prince tilt
the days of Kenneth 11. Kinj:; of Scots, «a warlike prince, who having prevailed with his
nobles contrary totluir own inclination, by a notable piece of craft, to engage in a war
againlt the Picls, with an undaunted valour and courage routed the Pidifli army and
wafted their country with hre and fword, puriuing them to the Orkney Ifles, which he
then annexed to thecr uvn of Scotland, reigning from Orkney to Adrian's Wall Anno
Dom. 85.1. 'Iherice Orkney continued in the poiLfTion of the Scots till the days of
Donald Bane, about the year 1 99, who, that he might fecure the kingdom to himfelf,
promifed the illjs to Magnus King of Norway, if he would affi I him with a necefTary
force ; which ofFcrMagnus accepting, the Norwegians became njallers of the ifles, till Alex-
ander III. about the year 1263, recovered them by expelling the Norwegians; which
ever (ince were polT-fTd and difpoled of by ojr kings. I'o be brief, at length William
Dougljis Earl of Mortoun got a wadfet of Orkney and Zetland from King Charles I.
which wadl'et with all the rights, contracts, infeftments, &c , thereunto appertaining,
was reduced by a d'.rreet of the Lords of Scflion, obtained at the indance of his Majefty's
Advocate againll Williarn DougLfs alfo Earl of Mortour., grand-child to the aforefaid
Earl, February 1669, which decrett was ratified and confirmed by act of parliament the
December following, ere fl'ug the Earldom of Orkney and Lordfliip of Zetland into a
ftevvartry to je called in all time coming the Stewarty of Orkney and Zetland. The rea-
fon commonly given, why the Earl of Mortoun loft the wadfet, was becaufe fome chefls
of gold were i'eifc'd by the Earls Deputs in Zetland, got out of a rich fliip, called the
Cnrmelan of Ainlferdam, caif away there anno 1664 ; none of this gold coming to the
Kiii'^'s trcafury, though fume of it, as was alledged, came to the Earl's hands.

From our iiUlory we may know, that Orkney and /.ctland have been reckoned fo
great and confiderable a part of His Majr-lly';; ancient kingdom, that for divers ages
they occufiuiied much expcnce of blood and treafure, for the maintaining thereof againfl
the invafii-n of .foreigners, and recovering the fanie out of their hands by arms and trea-
ties. TlietiiL- iikcwiie of thefe iiles hath Hill been reputed honourable,, hence it hath
pleafcd our prefent King to confer this title of Earl of Orkney upon Lord George Ha-
milton, brother to his grace the Duke of Hamilton, for good fervices done by him to
Hi:; Majedy's p?r)bn and government.

I proceed to conlider the prefent Itaie of the country. The people here are perfon-
able and comely, and many of them, as I obierved, are of a rvi Idy complexion, which
may be by reafon of the lea air and their frequent fi(h diet, fuch a colour and counte-
nance, as our marim IS ufc to have and retain for fome days after they are come from
fca: they are generally hofpit,.ble and civil, giving kind and humane entertainment to
flranger;;, which we iuund to our experience. Both n)en and women are fafhionable
in their cloaths, no men here ule plaids, as they do in our Highlands : in the North
Ifles of JSanda Weftra, occ. Many of tht. country people wear a piece of a fl-iin, as of a
fcal, conunonly called a Rich, calf or the like, fur fhoes, which they fallen to their feet
with lbin;;s . 'longs of leather. Their houfcs arc in good order, and Well furnilhed
according to tiieir qu.dities.

Tiicy generally fp.ak ]''.n;i,lifli, neltlier do T think they have fo much of tlie northern
accent, as iix urany places of tho awth of k^coilaiid, yet fcvcral of the lllcs have fome

words

I'll

r:;H

>:"'i 'Ri

vi,l-

74a

BRAND S DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

words and phrafes peculiar to themfelvcs. There are alfo fonie who fpcak Norfe efpccJ-
ally in the mainland, as in the parifh of Hara there are a few yet living, who can fpeak
no other 'thing, this language not being quite extin£l among them, fince the Norwegians
whofe language it is, had this country in pofToffion. And though Caithnefs be near to
Orkney, yet none in Orkney can fpeak Irifli, though the greateft part in Caithnefs can ;
nor can any in Caithnefs fpeak Norfc, though fome in Orkney yet can do it.

The air, as it is piercing and cold, fo it is free and healthy ; hence many arriv' at a
good old age: one in Evie brought forth a child in the fixty tliird year of her age, as
the niiniftcr who had enquired thereunto declared : a man in the parilh of Holm, who
died not many years fince, lived with his wife in a conjugal Rate above lifjlity years, as
the prefent niinider of the place inform,?d me : a gentleman in Stronfa, who died about
two years fince, was begotten of his father m hen one hundred years old, this was attefl:-
ed by the minillers who knew the truth thereof, one William Muir in Weltra lived one
hundred and forty years, and died about fixtcen years ago, by a decay of nature's heat
and vigour, incident to fuch an infirm decrepit age, without any ordinary ficknefs, as a
gentleman in thtfe bounds, well acquainred with him, told me. The difeafe they are
inoft obnoxious unto is the fcurvy, oceafioned", as is judged, by the fea air, fi.lies, falt-
meats, 5cc. It is obferved likewife that it is colder in the fummer time than it
is with us in the fouth, but warmer in the winter, the fnow not ufing to lay long ; for
(befide other thinc'y that might be faid on this heat', which alio refped other countries)
in the fummer < old breezes come off the fea, which tempers the heat ; and in the win-
ter fe;vfon the fa.^e breezes may qualify the extreme cold and froll, which ufeth to be
greatefl, wh"n the air is mod qiiiefcent, and lead difturbed with winds; the great mo-
tion alfo of the rapid tides may contribute not a little thereunto.

Their t>rdinary grain are oats and barley, and though other grains fliould be fown,
the produil: would not be great if any at all, they not taking with fuch a weak and cold
foil, and the many brinifli blalls th';fe ifloi lay expofed unto. As for wheat bread it is
rare and fcarce to be had, if not at Kirkwall and fome gentlcnien's houfes, who bring
the flour from. Murray, or the fouth of Scotland. As for their oats and barley, the
grain is lefs and blacker than if is with us : yea though they fhould bring good and fair
j'eeil from other countries, within a few years 't would degenerate and become like
their own ; which is the reafon why their meal and bread are of fuch a black colour.
Yet in fome places the meal is whiter, and faid to be better than in others. Their not
being fo diligent i. \innowiiig their corns, not having fuch good mills for grinding ;i8
we have may be partly the caufe thereof. In fome place alfo they ufe not to fliear their
•corn, but pluck it up by the roots, as we do the lint, becaufe of the fcarcity of fodder to
to their beafls, which corns, it not taken pains upon, will abound with fand and duft.
Neverthelefs, Un aught I hear or know, their bread and ale are wholefome, and the na-
tives take well wiih them. I thought firll wh' li we landed in Orknev, their oat bread
and flefhes alfo had fome fifli-tafte, but when we had tarried Ibme days there, we were not
fo fenfible of it.

I'heir* arable ground is better and more fertile than at fird to ftrangers appeareth,
whence I heard lo.ne gentlemen declare, it was wonderful to think how great the pro-
duel of thefe ifles is confiderini; the many barren mountains and much vvalle ground
.that arc in them, 'ihey duig thiir land for the inoft pait with !'ea-ware, which having
cathered they fuller to rot, either on the coad.;, or by carrying it up to the land upoa
horfes or on their barks; they l;;y it in heaps, till the time c^f labouring approach;
which is the reafon, why the ikirts. <.)f ihe ilhs are innre ordinarily cultivated, ai;d do
more abound with corns, than places at a greater diRance (rom the fca^ w here they h;.ve

nut

7.ETLAKD, PIOHTLAND-IIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

743

not fuch pfooding at lianJ. Thoir ploughs are little atid Hfiht, having only ono ftilt,
and but little* iron in tliem ; hence when at the end of the ridge, he who holds it lilts it
up and carries it to the other fide of the ridge, and if he pleafe may carry it lioino on
his fliouldcrs : the reafon they give of this is, that although fome of their ground be
flroufr, yet their bealls are weak and unable to go through with a plough of any con-
fiderable weight.

Their horfcs, kino, flicop, lambs, &c. arc of a lelTer fize than with us, and are to be
bought at an oafier rate, for a good cow which will be had for five pounds Scots, or
four pounds, lixtecn flii Dings, at which price they are obliged to fell her at Kirkwall
about Martinmafs. A gnnd v/eddcr for twenty (hillings Scots. A hen for two fliillingsor
two fliillings and (ix-pence, &c. The fheep here are generally wild, therefore when they
would have thctn taken, they ordinarily do it by do;':s trained for the purpofe, the owner
of the (heep giving to the mafler oflhe dog two Ihilling;; Scots for each one that is taken,
and if they be not To wild but one fliilling. Some huibandmen told us, they would ra-
ther labour their l.ind over again than take their Iheep when they would have them
walhed and lliorn ; I law a young man come from the hills wet and weary, having a
long time purfue ' one to kill for our ufe. 'Ihelr kine are of divers colours, fome white,
others of a pied, fome red, others red and whit-, &c. So that I think, there are as tnany of
thefe co'ours as are of a black. They have no rivers, no place of the land, being above
two or three miles illflant from the fca, therefore they draw water out of wells for their
caitle, or drive them to lochs or lakes, fome whereof they have, or to fome fniall.
brooks which run from ihcfe lochs : which lochs likewifc caufe their mills to go.

They have abundance of cattle in many places, whereby is afforded then^ plenty of
milk, which yitldeth much butter, fome whereof is very good, yellow and Iwcet, but
that which is called Orkney butter at Edinburgh, is only their farm-butter, which they
are obliged to pay to the taxmen or mailers, whereof a quantity according to compaft
and agreement being gathered, they are at little or do trouble to make and keep it
clean. 'J heir Ihec]! alfo are very fruitful, many of them having two, and fome three at
a birth, which as Mr. Wallace lately, lb Bocthius of old did obfcrve, oves ilUc pcnc omiw;
geminos, iinmo trigeminus pljncque partus cJimt,

Fiihcs of divers forts are taken in great plenty, yet not fo numerous as formerly, for
now before they catch their 'great fifiies as keeling, ling, he, they muff put far out into
the fea with their little boats, and thereby undergo great danger, which in former times
they ul'ed to get nearer the coafts : however fuch a number is taken, that, belide what
for their own fupply, many are fent abroad to other countries for fale. Particularly
there are grey idhes, called fdluks, fcarcc half fo big as a herring generally, which fwim
and are taken in great numbers upon the coalls, lo that fomctimes they i'oon fell one
thoufand of them for fix or feven ihillings Scots. This fifii is pleafant to the tafte, and
alfo they fay very wholcfome, which fecms to be confirmed by this, that in the late years
of great fcarcity, the poorer people lived upon them, almoft as their food, they often not
enjoying a crumb of bread for many weeks. So our good God, on the fhutting of one
door, opened another in his holy and wife providence for the relief of the poor.

Herrings do fwim here in abundance, which formerly occafioned fevcral fhips fre-
quenting thefe ifles, but fince the battle of Kilfyth, they fay that trade hath failed, maoy
of the Knlter men, who were ordinary fiihers upon thefe coalls, being killed there.
When I was in P.ipa Weftra, they pointed out to me a holm upon the eaO fide of the
iile, where I law the ruins of fome huts or little houfes, whereunto thole Enfler men
fometimes reforted, during the herring -fifliing. A gentleman Hving in this ifle tol ! tne,
that the former year, 1699, there was a great quantity of herring fpcrm or fpawn driven

upon

'^U'i

u^m

744

BRAND S DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

upon the fhore, and lay there for fometime in heaps : which cv'ulenctth that herrings in
their feafon arc yet on thefe coads : though means be not ufedto take thotn.

Befide the many other excellent fillies, as keeling, ling, fcate, turbot, and fomctiines
they fay fturgeon &c., there are alfo many fhell fifhcs taken ; as lobltcrs loKl for an half-
penny or four pence Scots ; oyfters, much bigger than wilh us, for f^u** fliillings Scots
per hundred ; partens and muflels : and cockles in fo great pi nty, that they maku
much good lime of their (hells, befidc which they have no other lime in Orkney, lave
what they bring from the fouth.

They have plenty both of land and fca fowls : as eagles, hawks, einbcr-goofe, claik-
poofe, dunter-goofe, folcn-goofe, fwans, lyres, fcarfls, keitiwaiks, plover, muir-fowl,
duck and drake, kc. The king's falconer ufeth to gn every year to tlie ifles, taking
the young hawks anu falcons to breed, and every houfe in the country is ubligeil to give
him a hen or a dog, except fuch as are exempted. The eagles do much hurt to the
young (lore, falling down upon their lambs and hens, and taking them away with them
to their neils, killing and pulling out the eyes and hearts of their fhcep ; h.-nce there is
an atEb (landing in the (leward's books, that wlyiever (hall kill an eagle, llr.'.U have a hen
out of every houfe of the parifli, where he is killed ; yet notwithdandiag of this en-
couragement, I hear but of few killed, they fleeing high, and difpatcliing tli^irprey fo
quickly : I (aw a young one in the palace of Birl'a, alinoll twice the bigncJ's of a goofe.
though not a month old, it is a ravenous fowl, and would have run upon us if we had
not kept it off with our (tavcs ; as to its colour, it is for the mod j-iart black, and fome-
thing of a yellow or golden colour about the head and ni fomc parts of the wings. It
is to be obferved of the eagle, that he doth more deilrudion in places at fome dillance
from hisnell than in thefe that are nearer it. Eagles, hauks, and fuch like fowls have
their neRs ordinarily on foine high ragged rock, walhed by the fca beneath, lome of
which we faw as we had occafion to fail by them.

The ember goofe though not altogether fo big as our land goofe, yet it ufeth to
weigh a (lone weight. It hath fliort wings, not able to bear up he bjdy lor (leeing,
hence it is never fcen to fly, neither fit on any ruck in the fea, a ; oilier fowls do, but
hath its ncfl, wherein it hatcheth its eggs, one or two at oace, iiiul r the water, at tho
foot of a rock, as they informed me hath been found. It is of a darkilhgrcy colour,
and white about the neck, of broad feet like our land goofe, and a long beck and
though ever in the water, yet hath not, I think, fuch a (Irong fidi tade, as tiie (blen
goofe. It is more didicult to get them fhot than other fea fowls, they being very quick-
lighted, and on the firdapprehenfionof danger get beneath the water: yea by rcafon of
their many feathers, they Vill receive a (hot on their bread, and it not penetrate ; where-
fore who would beat them,defign for their heads, or to fiioot them againd the feathers.
The lyre is a rare and delicious fea fowl, fo very fat, that you would take it to be
wholly fat ; it is (bmcwhat Icfs than a duck.

The fea fowls are (b numerous, that a gentleman in Wedra told his minider, that
fome years ago, he for his own part killed fo many, as adbrded him fifty, fixty, and
fomc years one hundred done weigiit of feathers, (whereby accrues to the owners more
gain than by the flelh of the fowls) though for fome fealbns pail he had taken but few ;
for it is obferved, that thefe fowls follow thefinall filhes, which arc their ordinary iood,
hence the more fifhcs, the more fowls, and when the hfhes forfake this and the other place,
the fowls likewile do (o within a (hort time. Becaule of this abundance of fouls, therefore
it is, that the gentlemen and fome others have tho rocks in feveral places e'ividcd amoag
them, as they have their land. Which fowls they either kill by fmall fhot out of boats
at the foot of the frequented rocks, or clfe men are let down by ropes from the top of

the

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND-FIRTH, ANI> CAITHNHSS.

745

the rocks, 'vho fearch for tho ncfls, taking the pg^s and what fovls they can appre-
hend. Mirny kinds of tlm fca-fowls are of a pit'd colour, fomc of which are not to be
found with us in the fouth. ^

There are here no partridges, but plenty of muir-fowl-', hence in foine iilos they
will take twenty, thirty, or forty pair in one day, the hills covered with heather, being V y
nature fitted for their living and accommodation. Conies alfo do abound in mod of the
iflcs, but no hares arc to be feeti ; fo that if any be brought into tho country, as they
fay hath been tried, they will not live and propagate as in other places. I hear of few,
if any, venomous creatures in thcfe ifles, as Boethius of old did obferve : Serpenfes nut
aliud animal venemfum nullum, id quod dc llibernid quoque vcrum fjl. No bees cither are
here, there being no provifion proper for them, befidc they would not take well with
this cold climate.

No trees there arc in this country, nor buflies, fave a few in the bifhop's garden at
Kirkwa'., vh' ' ire efteemed as a rarity, for when planted and taken care of, they
foinctimcs grovv up the height of their garden wall, but afterwards the) gradually go
back and decay. This feveral gentlemen very defirous cf having trees to grow declared,
which then mult be imputed to the nature of the foil, and fliarpnefs of the fea air, and
nc. to me floth of the inhaliitants, as our hiftoriau alferts: Nulla ufquam arbor ac ne
frutex quidm prahr ericam, nee id tarn cali aut foil vitio quam iiicolarum i^vavid, quod
facile oflcnu..ur ex arhorum radicibus, qua pturibus in locis cruuntur. For though indeed
it be true that roots, and fometimes bodies of trees, are found in niofles, yet this is rare,
and only to be had in fome places ; whereas gentlemen fay, they bring in exotic or
foreign plants, they fow feed for nurferics, which ul'eth to arrive at fome greater growth
than what is planted, yet after all their pains and expence in ufmg fuch proper means,
fo conducive for obtaining their cud, no perfection or bearing of fruit can be attained :
and that trees, which yet arc but fmall, and look dry and withered, do grow in the bi-
fhop's garden, may be becaufe of its inclofure, having the church on one fide, the town
of Kirk'.val on the other, and the bifliop's houfe on a third ; which kind of fences n\zj
keep off the cold breezes that come from the fea, and dellroy the growth of trees in other
places.

Though there are no trees, and fo no fruits for the table, yet there is no lack of good
roots for th ^ kitchen, as cabbage, carrots, parfnips, turnips, crummucks, artichokes,
he. ; all w.iv li ufcth to be bigger here than with us ordinarily, efpccially their arti-
chokes excel ; hence fome gentlemen do barrel and fend tiiem out of the country for
a prefcnt t(; their friends : befides thefe, they have likewife variety of herbs in the field,
very beneficial to fuch as underftand their virtue and ufe.

Peats aiul turf arc the ordinary fuel they ufe, which they have very good and in great
plenty through the country, except in fome places, which do not fo abound th.^rewith,
as in Sanda they are obliged to bring peats from the adjacent illes, they not having in
their own i (e to fufKce them ; and the ufual manner of agreement with tho proprietor
of the mols is for fo much a day for fo many peats as a man can cad : and in fuch
phices v.her. f'^.erc is fcarcity of fuel, the poorer fort make ufe of dried kinc's dung, or
tangles, which in fummer's heat they prepare for the winter's cold. I'hey have a few
ialt pans in fome places, where plenty of peats, which are very ufeful to the country :
at fomc times much tim.bcr, the wrecks of fhips cafl; away at fea, or broken on their
nies, is driver aftiore, which the inhabitants feizing keep for burnvvood, and if good
and frefli (as fometimes fliips from Norway feffer Ihipwreck upon or nigh to thefe iiles),
they make other ufes of it : I faw feveral chimney-pieces thereof. The more ignorant
people conllruil this a« a fa\ourable providence to them, therefore they call thefe wrecks

VOL. iti. 5 c God's

i,r>Wl

(h I

V '!ir

' K

■■■ *

M i:;Jfe!

746 brand's description of ORKNEY,

God's fend, though not fo favour.iblc to the poor mariners anl 01.. a who fu/Tor
thereby.

Althou'^h the fea fcometh to favour them, by hrin,i;ing fuch timbiT, ami foini.times
cafks and ,!'.; >Js of wine, braiu'y, &c. to their doois, yet this lurbuli'iit fuelling fen,
and (Iroi ^ current of a tide pays thcni Iimnc fo- \ for friqiienily thiroby llitir finail
pr-diige ( fiHuT-boiits are call away, lumetiiuef "n them pcrilhiiig, at other times
lome favcii withdifliculty. And at all titiu,^ it ;> ir^hly daiim'ious I'nr any not e.':pi.ii.
enced with thcfc icas to pals through bitwccn the ill s, though with fin.ill i)oa's, bccau/«
of the many blind rocks lying there, up-^n which I. inttimcs tlu- iiilial itai'it;? theinfelves
do fplil, uhat tlirough foine miltake, inadvertency, liarknuls of t!ic night, or othcrwife.

Tlie miniltecs inform us they art- often in great danger in going to tli'.>ir churches
from illo to ille, vifuing thtir parishes, going to the prelbytery, &c. Somftimes pale
death, with its grim countenar.c<-, profenMi, ; illMF, atid Hariiig ihcin in the face, as one
drawn out by tlie hair of the JKa^l ; another elcaping 011 thu keel of the overwhehnej
boat} fomctimes they are arnfted by a llorm in the illos, and kept from their own fa-
milies for fome weeks, even when the pallage will be fcarcc a mile or half a mile over.
They tell us, in the ifle of "'\''c(lra, there was a nwrriage not long finte, where about an
hundred perfons were convened from other iiles, anil were detained for fix or fevea
weeks together, fo that the many of them daily law their own houles, yet they durll not
adventure to pals over, till the falling wind and fea tookoif tluit eonlinement.

In every ifle there is a Wart or Ward hill, the highell hill in the ifle, on the top
whsjreof tlx^y ufed to kindle a fire when they faw an enemy approaching, or difcerned
any danger, that fo they might alarm the iieighbourhoi J, that the d.rp'.rfed inhabitants
cf the country having thereby notice given thetn might convene for their fuccour, or b&
upon their own defence, which beacons on Jie tops of mouiitai: s ihe fcrij^ture makes
mention of, as Ha. xnx. 17. And a hite learned amhor aiVertci./, "• I'lial great llanie
with fmokc rifing up out of the city, which was appointed as a lign between the mea
of Ifiavi -nd the lyers in wait, Judg. xx. 38, 40, feems to be nieaiu by this."

'ii.irr.,' are fevtral gentlemen in Oi kney who have confiJerable clhites, but the King
is thfc- Cm at proprietor, having about the one htilf of the rents of the whole country ;
rinch rnts arc let out to tax-men f'lr fo mi'-'h [>cr annum, as is agreed upon at the
public r ")up, who by their deputes gather in the rcvenui..s of the crown, and being the-
King's ftewards, they are the |)rincipal judges f the country. 'I'he rents when collec-
ted, whether paid in money, nual, oats, barley, 01 butter, are ordinarily feni loulh,
which caul'eth a great grudge among the people, fome of thetn thereby being redaded
to great ftraits, not getting meal, barley, or the like fomctimes to buy, as in tlie late
dearth, though then the product of theleifle^, comparatively, wej'e beyond that ofi.iany
other places in the kingdom. The bilhop's rents amounting to eight or nine thoul'and
merks per an/ium, and fo more confiJerable than the rents of foveral other biihopricks
in the kingdom, now fince the abolition (^f prelacy coming in to the King's treafury»
and at his iliipolal, are alio fent fuuth, and not contunied within the ides, as they ufed
formerly to be, when the bilhops refided herf, at which the people are likevvile dilla-
tisfied, and thereby, as fome better acquainted with their humours and ir.eli.iatiims da
inform me, the prtlbytcrian gov>'rnme;it is made thi.' lels acceptable to many of them.

The people greatly cry out of '.he oppreflion they groan under, by reafon of the fre-
quent change of Itewards their mailers, who being tax-m.';i, and fo only to continue for
fuch a definite time, each endeavours to gather in his rents, and that .tsfion :\r, may be,
which nuny of the poor people cannot get ib quickly g'ven, whereupon feveral of them
arc put to doors, and all taken from them, which hath occafioned much of the King's

land

ZETI.AKD, PIOIITLAND PIRTH, AK D CA!TMNES8.

7f;

land now (o Ik- lyin^ waflo and loe ; wliereas if they iilways had one mnniM*, fhcir cir-
ciirud.dicfs iiiii'Jit be ipucli I ■itt.-!*, for lonietimcs r lo iailoih out t!i;it rh-.- hutbaiulinnii
will fraiii as much in oiil- year as wiil ooinpenlafo tin.' iolji of uiujll-cr, the ni.iil(«r hkewifo
Would be more fiic()iiraf;ing to ihtm, and coiictriied /') their wdfare, an ) they hiivii.^ij
Icalfs fct them, would more cndeavou! the improviiij^ of tlicir p: iiuid, which now iluy
do iiot, iht'y nut 1. nowing Imt tile i;cxt ymr thoy niay have a iifW nialler, whof" ii'dj
finf.'er iiiay bo fhicivti' t'an his predectil'jr's i-'iis. Ytt h.'t not my reader judge tint I
ht'i'(;by intend tho impcacliment of any narlicidiir p.rlon or pt-r'.jns wiio have beon ta.v-
nicu there, or n>\v ar. ; but my dehgn is tc. liicw thut i ;is in t.u' common compi liiu of
th'^ country both in Orkney and /etland.

ihe genii -fn tell rs iluy have aiMthor kind of hi-luing I-.erc t'l
and the b ■ •'., \ have to their lanJ.s is that which fhey cai'

fion whici. tl ' fucceflivoly hive without cither charti-.

bi'ing I ' ^:.dl laiuh, or King's lan-b, or fcweil huu 1.

to be c.-i' ne Ulaus King of Nnr:vr\t who when he poiTelfed th;> country guv;

lo the ijdv.».ni, ii,'ht to fo timch landj lu ;;lways rttaining to himfelt the third part,

and enjoying afe thereof.

Their meaiure i^ not the fame with cnrs, tiu y not Uiing peck and firlot, but inflead
therei;f wei;;h their corns on pifmircs or pmidltrs. 'I'he lealt quantity is called a merk,
which is eighteen ounces; twenty-four lujrks make a leifpound or fettcn, whiiii with
the Danes is that which ue call a (Ion, ; fix fettens a ineil, which is their boll ; and
tirhtcen nicils make a ('-.alder. Neither do they ufe pocks or facks as we do ; but car-
ry aid keep their corns and meal in a fort of veflel made of flraw, bound about with
ropeaof the fame, called Cafiies.

IS m other plares,
./: I'ight ; a pi)1. 1-
I'm, ?dl their la

''Jr.al right is l.i.a

1*1 :-

Chap. lU. — IV/jin in ihc fevcrat JJla mvl Parijlocs bclong'nig lo Orkney arc enumerated^

and briefly dcfcribcd.

HAVING given fonie defcription of Orkney in general, I fliall now give fome more
partiiular account of the feveral illos thereunto belonging, wliich are divided into fuch
as are inhabited, and fo are more commonly called illos ; and fuch as are not inhabited,
which they call Hohnf, only uhd for palhirage. 'I'hc ifles are faid to be twenty-fix in
number, viz. Pomona, or the Mainland, being much larger than any of the rcif, Gram-
fey Hoy, Svviniia, South- ilonaldilia, Burra, Lambhohn,Fiotta, I'aira, Cava, Copinflia,
Shapinflia, Danday, Inhallo, Gairfa, Roufa, F.agleiha, Stronfa, Papa-Stronfa, Eda,
North-Vaira, Wedra, Papa-Wefira, Wyie, Sanda, and North-Ronaldflia. To which
may be j,'.\<\^\\ Pightlaiid bkerries, it being funictiaiesinhabiteil in the fummer-time, and
Wats which in a liigh llream is divided irom lly, whc.eunto it is joined by a low and
narrijw neck of land ; as alio the Calf of I'.cla, it having a fait i)an in it. It may be
obfcrv^'d that moit of the name^ of thefi: ifles end in a or cy, which in the I'eutonick
tongue fignifieth water, to fliew that thefe ifles are pieces of land furroimded with water.

The fn-ll is Pomona or the riaiula-iJ, laid lobe twenty-four miles in li\";th from ealt
to ued, and in fume places fix oreigiit milis broad ; nigh to the middle whereof is the
town of Kirkwal, about three quarters of a mile in Ir-ngth from fouth to north, the only
remarkable town in all tlii^ country, and befide which there is no other royal burgh iri
Orkney or Zitland. Tl# Danes, v. ho had the Orcades long in poflellion, called it
Cracoviaca, which name Buchanan takes lo be the fame with Kirkwal, but corrupted;
Quod Dani Crucji'iucain oppclUibiint, r.taie yiomiuc rorriiplo Kireua ^.otis diciinr. It Itand-
tih upon the north liJc of tiic ifle, in a low and moift ground ; hence a minill;er in this

5 c ? country

'.1

iMd

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0

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I^I^S |2.5
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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

1.25 1.4

1.6

6" —

►

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93 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY 145S0

(716) 873-4503

74S

BRAITd's description of ORKNEY,

country told me that in feveral places of their large church, where the more refpefted
burghers ordinarily bury their dead, tliey can fcarce dig two feet of earth but water
will arilb ; fo that he hath feen when they interred the corpfe, they behoved to prefs
them down in the water till the mold or earth was cad upon them. It is now much
decayed as to trade and number of inhabitants, as many ancient burghs in this tcingdom
are. In it hath been two (lately edifices, the King's and the bifhop's palace : the former
is now very ruinous, being the ancientell of the two, built, as is thought, by fome of the
bilhojis of Orkney, it having thd veftige of a bilhop's mitre and arms engraven upon
the wall that looks to the (Ireet, and in which, it is faid, the bifhops of old had their
refidence ; the other, called the bilhop's palace, wherein the bifhops lately lived, was
built by Patrick Stewart Earl of Orkney, anno i6o6, fon to Robert Stewart, natural fon
to King James V. This palace isalfo going to ruin, though with fomeexpence it could
be kept in good repair.

1 he church is a veiy noble and large ftrufturc, having in it fourteen or fifteen ftrong
pillars on each fide ; the fteeple (landing oa four iiiggcr and higher pillars in the middle
of the church, wherein there are feveral old and good bells. In the eader part only of
this great church is divine fervice performed, which is furnifhed with good feats for
accommodating the inhabitants, and other conveniencies proper for that end. It is
commonly called St. Magnus Church, being built, or at lead, as fome fay, the founda-
tion laid by Magnus King of Norway, whom they report to have been buried here ;
though others lay he was buried in Eaglelha, an ifle to the north of Kirkwal. There
are many of this name of Magnus in this country.

At Kirkwal there is a fafe road ; but (hips coming from the fouth cannot get fo eafily
into it, by reafon that the fame wind which brings them to Orkney, often will not fuffer
them ».o turn up to Kirkwal, they being obliged to encompafs a point of land ftretching
to the north-cad before they can make the road, fo that frequently they lie at ElwicK
ar Deer-Sound, two anchormg places to the ead or north-ead of Kirkwal, until that the
wind (hall favour them.

On the Mainland good corns do grow in feveral places, though likewife there be much
moori(h ground } but the pleafanted part of the ifle I take to be the wed end thereof,
about Birfa, Hara, Sandwick, and Stromnefs, where there are feveral fpots well fur-
niflied with grafs and corn. In the parifli of Birfa is the King's houfe, fituated on a
plain champaign ground on the wed end of the Mainland, nigh to the fea or Deucale-
donian ocean, which formerly when in order hath had feveral pleafant and diverting
avenues about it. At a large quarter of a mile's didance to the fouth we faw the plea-
fanted mixture of gowans, fo commonly called, or daifies white and yellow on every fide
of the way growing very thick, and covering a confiderable piece of the ground, that
ever we had occafioa to fee. The palace was built in form of a court by Robert Stewart
Earl of Orkney, about the year 1574; it is two dories high, the upper hath been <
prettily decorated, the ceiling being all painted, and that for the mod part with fchems
holding forth fcripture hidories, as Noah's dood, Chrid's riding to Jerufalem, &c. ; and
the fcripture is fet down befide the figure : it was inhabited within thefe twenty years,
but is now fad decaying.' When we entered the palace gate, we faw above it that in-
fcription fo much talked of, and reputed treafonable by King James VI. : Robertut
Steuiirtus ^iiiis Jacobi Vti. Rex Scoiorum hoc adificium injiruxit', which infcription could
not but offend the lawful heir of the crown, for it cannot welfbe thought that the Earl
and all about him were fuch blunderers in the Latin tongue as to put down Rex indead
of Regist if there had been no defign in it. Within the palace we faw alfo the motto
above hie arms : Sicfuity ejiy et eritt which was a piece of too great arrogancy for any

man

ZETLAND, PIGHTLANO-FIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

749

than to afiume that unto himfelf which properly belongs to the Son of God, whofe wife
judgment is not unworthy of our remark, that now only it can be faid of his houfe and
family, now extinA, Jicfuit ; which that great King Nebuchadnezar knew to his expe.
rience, " That thefe who walk in pride God is able to abafe."

Among other pleafant places in this weft end of the Mainland we may take notice of ;
Kirfal-Hill, a little to the eaft of the houfe of Brachnefs, in the parifti of Sandwick,
which is very large on the top, and plain almoft like a bowling-green, fothat nine or
ten thoufand menr could eafily be drawn up in order thereupon; it is all over very green,
without any heath or fuch like growing there, neither are there any rifmg hillocks on
it that we could difcern, as ordinarily are to be feen on other hills ; and becaufe of its
being fo very pleafant, the inhabitants about call it Chearful-Hill. Wiihin a few miles
alfo of the weft end of the Mainland is the Loch of Stennis, the largeft in Orkney,
whereon are fome mills ; fome trouts and falmon-gilfes are found in it and the brooks
that run from it.

Befide Kirkwal-road, there are feveral other harbours or bays' on the Mainland^
wherein fliips can fafely lie ; as one at Kerfton, a fmall village at the weft end of thd
Mainland, much frequented by (hips going to the weft of Scotland or Ireland, or com-
ing therefrom ; another is at Holm's Sound, towards the fouth-eaft fide of the ifle, to
which fometimes barks do refort from the fouth ; feveral fliips alfo going through Land
from the fouth to the weft fea drop anchor here ; and when they pafs they muft fail be.
tween Lambholm, a little ifle in the found, and the Mainland ; for the way on the other
fide between Lambholm and Burra, though it feem more open, yet it is, they fay, lhal»
low and dangerous. But none I think will dare to fail through thefe ifles without fome
meafure both of fliill and experience, elfe it will be to the hazard of their lives, and the
lofsof fhip and cargo, there being feveral turnings, blind-rocks, and fliallows; where-
fore many do judge it the fafeft courfe to keep the wide fea, and fo fail without the ifles,
efpecially if the weather be not well fet and promifing. Another convenient road is at
Deer-Sound, to the eaft of the Mainland, where a great bay commodious for navies to
ride in. Some other harbours and bays alfo there are upon the Mainland j but thefe
are the moft remarkable.

Nigh to the point of Deer-Nefs fome years ago was eaft away a fliip tranfporting fome
prifoners to America, who were for the moft part weft-countrymen, apprehended, im-
prifoned, and then baniflied for adhering to prelhyterian principles : there were, as is
faid, above an hundred who periflied, being kept under the deck, and tied together by
pairs, whereas if they had been at liberty, the greatcft part, if not all, might have been
laved, as a few were, then upon deck with the mariners. The country people here did,
and do think, that the captain of the fliip willingly fuPlrcd her to drive upon this point,
and the men there to perifti ; and if fo, it is probable that others, though not aboard,
have been concerned in this mifchievous defign, as the authors and abettors thereof.

In the Mainland are feven parifties, but thirteen kirks ; for many minifters in Orkney
have two and fome three kirks, wherein they ordinarily preach by turns : the firft is
Deemefs and St. Andrew's, at the eaft end of the ifle, where two kirks, one at Decrnefs,
and another at St. Andrew's, wherein their minifter preacheth by turns ; here live the
lairds of New-work and Tankernefs. Under this minifter's infpedion alfo is Copiiiiha,
a little ifle to the eaft of the Main, wherein a few families, fome corn land and paftu.
rage : it at a little diftance appears to be as an high rock confpicuous to feamen ; but
it declineth and liefh low towards the weft. To the north-eaft of it lieth a Holm, called
the Horfe of Copinflia.

The next parifti is Holm, alfo on the eaft of the Main, to the weft of Deeinefs and
St. Andrew's, wherein is but one kirk ; in this parifli liveth the laird of Graham's* Ha II.

750

BRAND S DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

To their niiniftcr's charge belongeth Lambhnim, a little ifie to the fouth of the ^Ja^n,
wherein a family or two. North-wed from ilolm the parifli and town of Kirkwal lieth,
where one church, but they ihould have two minifters : a pavt of tlu'sr charge is called
the parifh of St. Ola. To the wed of Kirkwal is Orphir, when; is buc one kirk. To
the north-weft of Kirkwal lieth Firch and Srennis, having two kirks, wherein their nn.
nifler preacheth/>fr vices, or by turns : to this parifli belonji;s Damiey, a little ifie. To
the north of Firth and Stentiis is Evie and Rendal, having two kirKs, whcMcin their nii-
niller jireacheth per vias. To this parifli belongeth Gairfey, a little jileafant ifl,j, wherein
livcth Sir William Craig, of Gairfey.

To the weft of Kvie and Rendal is Hara and Birfa, where arc tw okiiks, in which the
niinifter preachcth per ibices ; the King's houle is in liirfa as above.iaid. Next to Birfa,
to the fouth-wcft, is Randwick and Stromnefs, whfrc<n are two kii 'is, wliich their nii-
iMl'cr goeth to per vices. To Stromnefs belongcth Kcrfton, where the bcft harbour in
Orkney, and by reafon it is daily increafmg as to hftui'es and number of inhabitaots,
(who are encouraged to dwell hereupon the account of the many /iiipsthatdo frequent
this port, and often tarry for fome time); the minifter and geiitlemen concur in fup-
plic.iiing judicatories competent, that Kerlton with fome of the CvHUitry adjacent may be
erected into a parifti by itfelf, that fo the inhabitants of the place, and itrangers relbrting
thereunto, may be ferved with preaching and other parts of the palloral work ; their
prefcnt church at Stromnefs being four miles diftant irom them, wherein alfo they can
have ftrmon but every other Sabbath. In Sandwick lives the laird of Brachnefs.

To the fouth of Stromnefs and Sandwick lieth Iloy and Wacs, whicii oidinarily make
but one ifle, though fometimes by a high ih*eam overflowing the low and narrow paf-
fage whereby they are joined to one another, they are divided into two : the ifle is about
ten or twelve miles long from weft to eaft. Waes, at the eaft end of the ifle, is better
inhabited than Hoy, at the weft end thereof, it lying lower, and fo fitter for pafturage
and labouring ; whereas Hoy is more mountainous, only having fome houfcs on the
ikirts of the hillf^ by the coafts, and lome corn land about their houfes. The hill of
Hoy is the higheft in Orkney, whence we have a fair profpecT: of all the circumj iccnt
ifles, as alfo of Caithnels, Stranaver, Sutherland, 6cc. on the fouth fide of Pightland-
Firth, yet though it be fo high, it cannot hold true what fome do aC""-'. rh.it from this
hill is to"be feen the fun all the night over in the month if June, w e is about the

tropic of Cancer, for feeing the fim is for feveral hours feen abo le horizon the
iliorttftday of winter, he muft neccflaiily be fo far deprefl'ed the fliorteft night in fum-
mer, fo that his body cannot then be feen, thcjugh fomelhing of a clear light may be
difccrncd, as it were, accompanying ihe fun from his fetting to his rifing point, by rea-
fon of the rofleclion and refraction of his rays upon and through the fea, he dipping fo
little below their horizon. For the further illuftration jf tliis, the minifters of the nor-
thern ifles of Orkney told me tiiat in the month of June tiiey will fee to read fmall print
or write at midnij^hl ; and in Dcccnd:)er for fome days they can neither fee to read nor
writeunlefs that they light a candle, as one of them attcfted from his experience. To
the fouth of the entry into the Sound between Hoy and KerHon in the Mainlimd is the
Comb of Hoy, the higheft rock in ('•rkney, looking to the weft or Dcucalcdonian Ocean,
much frequented by fea-fowls.

The minifter of Hoy hath two kit ks, one in Hoy, and another in Granifey, a little

pleafant ifle about a mile long, lying to the north ot Hoy, between it and Kerlton in the

Mitinland ; but ihips that go through this Sound ufc to fail between Grainfay and the

Mainland, the way between Gramfay and Hoy being very dangerous. 'I'he minifter of

UVaes hath two kirks, one in Waes, and another in Flotta, a pleafant little ifle, and as

7 capable

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND-PIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

75*

capable of improvement as any ifle in Orkney ; Faira and Cava, alfo two other little
ifles, are a part of his charge ; thefe ifles lie to the eaft of Waes and Hoy.

Nigh to the eaft of Waes and Hoy lies South-Ronaldftia, five miles long from north
to fouth, and about two broad in feveral places ; it is the fouthernmoft of all the ifles of
Orkney, and very fertile and populous; at the fouth-cnd thereof is Burwick, whence
the ordinary paffageis to Duncan's-bay in Caithnefs over Pightland-firth. Their niinifter
hath throe kirks, two in South-Ronaldlha, one at the fouth end of the ifle, called our
LjJy's-Kirk, and another at the north end, called St. Peter's-Kirk. - He halh a third
kiik in Burra, a jjleafant little ifle to the north of South-Ronald (ha, wherein is much
corn-laud and many rabbits ; in this ifle live'h Sir Archibald Stuart. To this parifli
belongs Swiiuia, a little ifle in Pightland-firlh, of which more afterwards, when we come
to diicourfe ot Pightlandfirth»

To the north of the mainland lies the Northern Ifles, as Shapinflia to the north-eaft,
four or five miles long, to this parifli belongs but one kirk. It hath a fafe harbour at
Elwick, on the fouth of the ifle : here is the houfe of the found, which looketh well,
and hath a pleafant fituation on a rifiug ground, lying to the fouth.

To the north-eaft from Shapinflia lieth Stronla, about four or five miles long, it is
well inhabited, and the grafs and corns are good : Papa Sfronfa is a little ifle over
againft it towards north-eaft, wherein but one family, between Papa-Stronfa and Stronfa
is a fafe harbour or bay, well fenced by promontories or capes of land : it is faid to be
the beft north bound harbour in all the Northern Ifles. Oppofite to Stronfa to north-
weft lies Eda, ahout four miles of length from north to fouth, it is full of ihofs and
moor, and but thinly inhabited : fome of the neighbouring ifles get their peat hence.
In it a loch and mill. To the north-eafl: of Eda is the calf, a holm fo called ; between
which and Eda is Calf-found, a convenient and fafe road. The minifter of Stronfa and ■
Eda hath two kirks, one in Stronfa and another iuEda, where he prcacheth every third
fabbath. To the weft of Eda lits North Faira, a little pleafant ifle, wherein a few
families.

On the taft fide of Eda ftands a houfe built by John Stewart Earl of Carrick, ama
1663. Some of whofe offspring are yet hving in the neighbouring ifles, the occafion
of his coining and living in this remote corner is reported to have been fome difcon-
tent which ft-U out b( tween him and his lady ; he built at a great expence twelve falt-
pans in the Calf of Ed<i, over againft his houCe, which for fome time were all at work,
he defigning to have driven a ibreign trade with his fait, but he dying after a few years
abode th re, the houfe and pans, not being kept in repair, went to ruin, fo that now
only one lalt-pit is flanding. Thus his project died with himfelf.

To the north-caft ol F.da is Sanda, the pleafantell, 1 think, of the Orkney Ifles, nine
or ten miles long from fouth to north, in many places a mile or a mile and a half, and
in fome fcarco halt a mile broad, having feveral tongues of land wafhed by the foa,
hence fome do compare it to the ihape of a lobfter: no place in the ifle is high and
mountaiuours, and inimy Ipots of it are very plain, and even like a bowling-green, every-
where it is will aiinifhed with giafs, and much good corn, laid to be the b;ft in Ork-
ncy ; it alme payeih to the King forty-two chalders of victual, every one of which chal-
dersib tw.-ntv-otie bolls of our meafure ; the whole ifle is but as one rich cunin;i;ar, or a
cony-warren, for I never faw a greater number of conies running in any place than I
did licrL- ; hence the heritors kill feveral hundreds of them yearly for their ufe. rhen;
are feveral ^ays for fliips, as Kitletoft, Otterfwick, and Taphnefs-bay. Some gen-
tlemen alfu who ha\o coiifiderable interefts, as Burgh, Lapnefs, Sec: many fowls

irequent

:<#

IS^

BRAKD d DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

frequent this Ide, as duck and drake, plover, &c. fo that there 15 good fport for
the fo\vl(^r. The llirlings or ftaros are as numerous, I judge, as the fparrows i.re
with us.

In Siinda are two mmifters, one having one kirk called Lady-Kirk, on the eaft fide
of the ifle towards the north end thereof, in this iflearelbme fober, knowing, and good
people ; particularly in this Lady parifh, in the former Prefbyterian times, there was a
goodly zealous minifter,, Mr. Arthur Murray, who went fouth after the revolution, an.
1660, and died there, fome of the old people yet alive, who were under his minillry,
cannot fpeak of him . without tears : " The righteous fliall be had in everlafting re-
membrance," The other miniller hath under his infpeftion three kirks, twoinSanda,
Crofs Kirk, and Bumefs, and one in North-Rondalflia, an ifle to the north of Sanda,
two or three miles long. Both thefe ifles of Sanda and North Ronald flia lie low, and
dangerous for feamen, who cannot difcovcr them at any diftance, efpecially in a
.mirty day or dark night, till clofe upon them, 'and fo are ready to fuffer fhipwreck, as
many do.

To the weft of Sanda lies Weflra, fcvcn miles long, it is well inhabited, having much
corn in it ; here is Fittahill, where they fay the fairies are frequently feen, it is the
higheft hill in all the northern iflos of Orkney. In the north end of this ifle is the
caftle of Noutland, built by Gilbert Balfour for the ufe of James Hepburn Earl of Both-
well, married to Queen Mary the 27th of May, an. 1,567, in the abby of Holyrood-
houfe, who fearing he (hould not always retain and enjoy his prefent grandeur, which
the nobles envied him for, he likewife being I'ulpedted guilty of the murder of my Lord
Darnley, her former hulband, caufcd to be built this Urong caftle, which upon a
.change of the fceiie, he might betake himfelf unto, fituated upon a high rock nigh to
the Dcucaledonian Ocean, h.iving plain champaign ground about it ; it is four Itories
.high, and the loweft is ftrongly vaulted, above which is a high hall, having two air-holes
through the arch, fo to give- vent to the powder, if at any time they mould be fur-
prifed with a blaft, the walls are very thick, and all the free-ftone for the building was
brought from the fouth : the roof is flat and fenced with rails of ftone, whence we have
a fair view o^' the circumjacent country. There are fevcral holes or flits in the build-
ing, not only to let in the light, but to gall an Approaching enemy with fmall ftiot, if
at any time they fhould be attacked : but the Lord often taking the finner in his own
craftincfs, fuflered him not fo to efcape, by flieltering himfelf in this ncft. This caftle
was never completed, for in one part thereof the walls are but half the height intended,
and never hiiherto covered wiih a roof, and he being purfucd by the Lords of the
connregation, never pofleflcd it, or fo much as favv it, if not at a diftance, for he taking
hiiiiftlf to Aa with two or three fliips caitio to Kirkwul in Orkney, and being driven
thence by 'William Kircaldy of Grange, he fled to Zetland, where the puriuer had
almoft overtaken him, if the pilot's Ikill in thefe leas had not made a way to efcape,
in holding down by the fuic of a blind rock well enough known to the pilot, which the
purfuer ignorarit of fplit upon ; which rock to this day is called the Unicorn, from the
name of a fliip that perifticd upon it. Bothwell efcaped to Norway, where being ap-
prehended, he was taken to Denmark, and caft into a filthy prifon, where he died after
ten years imprifonment : his wicked life having this miferable end : " Though hand
^)in in hand the wicked fli;ill not go unpuniflied ;" and ordinarily murder, (whereof
he was fufpeded to.be guilty,) fo crieth from the ground, that it bringcth down re-
markable and often tremendous judgments in time. There are feveral gentlemen's
iioufes in Weftra,

3 The

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND-FIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

753

The minifter of Weftra hath three churches wherein he preaches per vices, two in
Weftra, one at the weft end of the ifle called the Weft-Kirk, and another nigh to the
north end called the North-Kirk, the third church is in Papa-Weftra, a little ifle of
three miles long from fouth to north ; betwixt it and Weltra there is a convenient
harbour for fliips at Piriwa ; as alfo in tiie fame found a little to the north of this har-
bour lies -a holm wherein there hath been a little chapel, whereof fome of the ruinous
walls are yet to be feen. Papa-Wellra aboundeth with rabbits, and hath fome corn
land, but not fo much as fome other ifles, it being hard and ftony .ground ; it belongeth
to a gentleman called Holland, and hath been reputed famous for St. Trodwell's Cha-
pel and Loch or Lake. To the eaft of this ifle lieth the Holm, where the Enfter men
had thier huts as above.

To the fouth of Weftra lies Roufa, an ifle fix miles long, full of heathy hills, abound-
ing with moor-fowls; there is not much corn in it, and but thinly inhabited. There is
a loch and mill thereon that goeth ordinarily all the fummer over, which is rare in
thefe ifles. The minifter of Roufa hath two kirks, one in Roufa and another in Egle-
fha, a pleafant ifle two miles long, where a church i\uch frequented by fuperftitious
people, with a high fteeple feen at a great dillance, where (as fdme would have it) St.
Magnus was buried. To his charge alfo belongs Inhallo, a little ifle to the weft of
Roufa, alfo Wyre a fmall ifle.

Thus I have glanced at the defcription of the Orcades ; moft of which I have had
occafion to fee, wherein we fee there are feventeen pariihes ; eight in the mainland,
viz. Kirkwall, Holm, Deernefs and St. Andrews, Evie and Kendal, Firth and Stennis,
Orphir, Birfa and Hara, Stndwick and Stromnefs ; and nine in the other ifles, viz.
South Ronalflia and Bura, Waes and Flotta, Hoy and Gramley, Shapinflia, Stronfa
and Eda, Lady-Kirk in Sanda, Crofs-Kirk and Burnefs in Sanda, and North Ronalflia,
Weftra and Papa Weftra, Roufa and Egleflia ; but there are thirty-one kirks ;. an J
thefe minifters look upon themfelves as more happily pofted, who have only one kirk,
efpecially if they have not more kirks in feveral ifles ; this tending more to the edifica-
tion of f he people under their charge, and confequently to their peace and encourage-
ment, they every Lord's Day difpenfing ordinances in the fame place, to the fame
people, whereas thofe who have more kirks committed to them are fometimes obliged
to preach in one place and fometimes in another, and the people generally frequent but
their own kirk, efpecially if they be in different ifles, hence ordmarily they enjoy the
ordinances only every other Sabbath, and in fome places but one of three, which cart-
not but obftrudt the progrefs of the Gofpel among them. Befides it is uneafy, ex-
penfive, and dangerous for them to travel from ifle to ifle, and fometimes a ftorm
arifing they are neceffarily detained there. The ftipends here are fmall, and for the
moft part paid by the fteward or his depute, the king being the principal proprietor,
yet they can live very well upon them, viduals being had at an e^y rate.

The people are generally traftable, fubmiflive and refpe£tful to their minifters, which
is very defirable and encouraging to thofe who labour among them, when true zeal
enlargeth the defires, and puts an edge upon the ipirits of paftors in the difcharge of
the Lord's work for the good of fouls.

Chap. IV. — Some Things remarkable' in Orkney, as ancient Monuments^ Jirangc Provi-
■ '■ '^ '"■ dencesy ^c. are reprcJcnteJ.

HAVING taken a view of the country in general, and the feveral ifles in particular,
I fliaJl now divert my reader with fome things remarkable, not altogether unworthy ot-
VOL. m. 50 our

75*

brand's DB8CRIPTI0N OF ORKNEY,

our obfervation, fuch as fome ancient monuments, ftrange accidents, and fome other
things not only curious and deleftable, but alfo profuable to the judicious; a£Fording
matter " of meditation to the wife obfervcrs of thefc things, who regard the works of
the Lord, and duly ponder the operations of his hands, in the years of ancient and
latter times."

The fird we take notice of is the ftonc, called the DwarBe Stone, lying in a valley
between two hills, to the north of the Hill of Hoy, it is about thirty-four feet long,
fixteen or feventeen broad, and eiglit thick, hollowed by the hand of fome mafon, as
the print of the maion-irons do yet (hew ; it hath a fquare hole for the entry, looking
to the eaft, two feet h ijh, with a (lone proportionable (landing before this entry at two
feet diflance, within at one end is hewen out abed with a pillow, wherein two perfons
may lie ainioft at their full length ; oppofite to this, at the other end, is fomething alfo
hewen out like a couch, between which bed and cojuch there is a large hole above
about the bignefs of the entry, through which a perfon may come up to the top of
the ftone, and might ferve for a vent to the fnioke, if fo be they had put any fire upon
a hearth between the two beds. Beneath this (tone runs to the fouth a cold and plea-
fant fpring, which might aftbrd drink to the inhabitants. Who hewed this (lone, or for
what ufe it was, we could not learn, the common tradition among the people is, that a
giant with his wife lived in this ifle of Hoy, who had this Hone tor their callle. But
I would rather think, feeing it could not accommodate any of a gigantic llature, that it
might be for the ufe of fome dwarf, as the name feems to import, or it being remote
from any houfe might be the retired cell of fome melancholy hermit. The ftone
alfo may be called the Dwarfie Stone, per antiphraji/ij or by way of oppofition, it being
to very great.

To the north-weft of this ftone is a high mountain of a fteep afcent, called the Wart-
hill of Hoy, looking to the north ; nigh to the top uf which hill about mid-day, is feen
fomething, and that at a good dillance, which glitters and ftiines wonderfully, and though
fome have climbed up and fearched for it, yet could find nothing ; it ftiines mod in
the fummer time : the people talk of it as fome enchanted carbuncle ; others take it
to be a water that refle^eth the fun's rays, and fo caufeth fuch a fparkling and fplen-
dor *, but a gentleman who liveth nigh t* this rock told us, that it ftiines moll in the
greateft drought, when no water is near it.

At the weft end of the mainland, about a mile and a half to the weft of the houfe
of Skael, on the top of high rocks, there is fomething like a ftreet, near to a quarter of
a mile in length, and between twenty and thirty feet in breadth, all laid with flones of
difti?rent figures and magnitudes, of a reddifti colour : fome of which ftones bear the
image and reprefentation of a heart, others of a crown, others of a ftioe, a leg, a laft,
a weaver's ftiuttle, &c. And that which renders it yet the more ftrange is, when thefe
ftones are railed many of them have the fame figure and fliape below on the one fide,
that they have above on the other ; which ftreet all beholders look on as very wonder-
ful. I faw a part cf the garden wall of the houfe of Skael, decored in the forepart
thereof with thefe ftones, we intended to have fent a parcel of them fouth to our friends
as a Trtrity, if they had not been forgot at our return from Zetland. Whether thefe
ftones be h laid and figured by art or by nature will be hard to determine. For there
is no houfe liigh to this ftreet, neither are the ruins of any which formerly have been
there to be foen. So puzzling are the works of God to the moft ingenious and accurate
obfervers of Providence.

At the loch of Stennis in the mainland, in that part thereof where the loch is nar-
roweft, both on the weft and eaft fide of the loch, there is a ditch, within which there

a is

ZnTLAND, PIOHTLAND-FIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

755

is a circle of large and high ftoncs crcfted : the larger round is on the wefl fide,
above one hundred paces diameter ; the ftones, fet about in form of a circle within a
large ditch, are not all of a liko quantity and fize, though fome of them, I think, are
upwards of twenty feet high above ground, four or five feet broad, and a foot or two
thick, fome of which ftoncs are fallen, but many of them are yet ftanding, betweea
which there is not an equal diftancc, but many of them are about ten or twelve feet
diftant from each o»htr. On the other fide of the loch over which we pafs by a bridge
laid with ftones after the manner of a ftrcct, the loch there being (hallow, are two
ftones ftanding of a like bignefs with the rc(t, whereof one hath a round hole in the
midft of it, at a little diftance from which ftoncs there is another ditch, about half a
mile from the former, but of a far lefs circumference, within which alfo there arc fome
ftones ftanding, fomething bigger than the other ftones on the weft fide of the loch,
in form of a femicircle, 1 think, rather than of a circle, opening to the eaft, for I fee
no ftones that have fallen there fave one, which when ftanding did complete but the
femicircle. Both at the eaft and weft end of the bigger round, are two green mounts,
which appear to be artificial ; in one of which mounts were found, faith Mr. Wallace,
nme fibula of filver, round, but opening in one place like to a horfe-fhoe.

It is moft probably thought that thefe were the high-places in times of pagan idola-
try, whereon facrifices were oflfered, and that the two artificial mounts of earth ferved
for the fame purpofe, or were the places where the afties of the facrifices were eaft, as
fome will have it. Boethius, in the life of Mainus King of Scots, obferveth, that the
people called thefe huge ftones drawn together in the form of a circle, the ancient
temple of the gods : Ut populus ad religlonem tnoverentur^ prifcis facris novas qua/dam et
folcnnes ceremoniat fnperaddidit (Rex n'mirum Mainus) diis imnwrtalibus peragendasy ut
immenfts faxis variis in regionum locis fut res expofcebat) in coronidem admotisy eorumque
maxima ad meridiem porredoy cujus pro araforet ufus : viilima ibi diis immortalibus facrin
Jicium cremarentur. Extqnt in reifidem^ vel hoc nojiro avo ingentia eafaxa du6la in circos,
prifca deorum phana vulgus appellat. Many of the country do fay, that in the larger
round the fun, and in the IciTer the moon, was worfliipped by the old pagan inhabitants
of thefe ifles.

And indeed to build their altars of earth or unpolilhed ftoncs feems to have been
the cuftom of ancient times, and even of the firft ages of the Roman empire, as the
learned Spencer endeavours to prove from TertuUian, Elfi a Numa concepta eji curioji-
tasfuperjiitiofay nondum tamen aut fwiulacris aut templisre: livina apud Romanes con/iabat,
Frugi religio et pauper es riius ct nulla capitolia certantia ca,^ ; fed tcmeraria de ccfpite aU
tarioy ct vafa adhuc Samia, et iiidor ex Hits, et Dcus ip/e nufquam. And further con-
firming the fame from Cluverius writing of the German antiquities. And concludes
with giving the rcafon why the Gentiles of okl were fo taken with rude, undigefted,
artlefs and unpolifhed altars and places of worfhip, becaufe they judged them more
holy and more acceptable to the Gods : Genies aiitiquay faith he, natura vel traditione
dcdtay naturalia omnia rudia licet et impolitay fanHiora et diis fuis gratiora crediderunt.
And here in thefe monuments nothing like art or form : the ftones are not po-
liftied nor all of a like thicknels, height or breadth, nor of an equal diftance from
each other.

In the ifle of Sanda there is a chapel called the chapel of Clet, wherein there is a
grave nineteen feet long, which when opened fome years ago, there was nothing found
in it fave the piece of a back-bone of a man, greater than the back- bone of any horfe.
This the minifter of the place declared unto me, who law the grave opened, and mea-
fured it from the head to the foot ft«ne thereof, who alfo for foKie time had the bono

5 B 2 in

75<5

brand's DB8CRIPTI0N OP ORKNEY,

in his cuftody. The vulc;;ir trailitlon is tliiit there was a giant tlicrc, who was of (o
tall a flature that he couM have llocnl up(Mi the ground and put the copflone upon the
chapel, which no man now livirg Jy far could do.

Tiierc are alH) bones foiiml in Wellra between Tiikey and the Wcfl Church, as preat
as horfe bones, as the rniniiler of Wediu informed iflc. And I'ome there have been
lately of a gigantic flature in thefe iflcs : as that man who died not long lince, whom
for his height they commonly call tlie Meikie Man of Wats.

Through this country we find feveral obclilks, or very high and great flones fet up,
as one in the ifle of tda, another on the mainland within a mile of Birfa, &c. they
appear to be much worn, by the waihing of wind and rain, which fliews they are of a
long (landing, and it is very ilrange to think how in thcie places and times they got
fuch large flones carried and ercded. Mirabile profc^o quifquis ca fpci}averit qua arte
qu'tbiu corporis viribus lapiJcs tiinta mole in iinum locum ^uerint congrjii. The real'on and
end of their fetting up cannot be certainly known ; however we may conjedure, that
probably it was in remcnjbrance of fome famous battle, or hath been the ancient fu-
neral monuments of fome renowned perfons, who have fallen in battle or been buried
there. Several of which flones and monuments are to be feen in many places through
Scotland, and in Norway they are very common, as our travellers who have feen
them inform me. And it is like thefe Hones have been fet up by the Norwegians, when
they polfefled this country.

In Scapha about a mile from Kirkwall to fouth-wefl it is faid there was kept a large
and ancient cup, which they fay belonged to St. Magnus King of Norway, who firfl in-
ilrufted them in the principles of the Chriflian religion and founded the church of
Kirkwall, with which full f fome flrong drink their bifliops at their firfl landing were
preliented ; which, if he drank out, they highly praifed him, and made themfelves to
believe, that they fliould have many and fruitful years in his time. This Buchanan
relates, and as Mr. Wallace obferveth, is Hill believed there, and talked of as a truth.
Scyphum hiibcnt anliquutn, faith Buchanan, quern Jivi Mjgni, qui primus ad (os Chrijii
Joclrinam altulityfuiffc pradicant ; is cum it a fuperet com muni um poculorum ampiitudinenit
ut e Lapiihiirr.m convivio refcrvatus vidcri po//it, cofuos epifctpos initio ad fe adventantes
esplorant : qui plenum una hnujht cbibcrit (quod admodum raro cvenit) miris cum laudibus
frofcquuntur^ atquc hinc velut lata auguriofcqucntium annorum provcntum animis pracipiunt.
The country to this day have the tradition of this, but we did not fee the cup, nor
could we learn where it was. And indeed that which renders this the more credible
is, that the Norwegians at prcfent, as merchants and mariners informs us, have a cuf-
tom like unto this, that u ^ny come to pay them a vifit, efpecially if they be flrangers,
they ufe to prelent them with a large cup full of drink, which they take not well if
their guefls drink not out. They fay, fome of thefe cups will contain three mutchins,
others a pint, and fome a quart of our meafure.

The wind, and fea, in any florm beats mofl tempefluoufly and vehemently here upon
the rocks : a little to the well of Kerfton in th mainland, there is a rgck called the Black
Craig of Stromnefs, about feventy fathom high ; upon which in a (lonn the fea from the
Deucaledonian ocean doth beat with fuch violence and force, that the waves, breaking
thereupon, caufe the water to rife to the top of the rock hke fnow, and fly like a white
flieet before the wind, blafling the corns for three or four miles behind the rock, if it
fall out in, or a little before harvefl ; and this it doth likewife in feveral other places of the
country, as fome gentlemen, who knew it to their experience, did declare. Yea fo great
is the violence of thefe tempefluous fe.is, that thereby fome great flones are cafl out and
•ther& are worn, fo that large- cavss in fome places run from the Ilea within the rock,

beneath

ZETLAND, PIOHTLALD-FIRTH, AKf) CAlTHNP.SH.

7S7

btncath the ground for fome confidcrable way, I faw one of thefc at thfe cart end of thtf
tnairiiund in the parifh of Holm, it is all covered above with the rqck and earth, favc
that within thefe few years fome of the rock and earth foil in, or was blown up (as thoy
call it) in one night, by a violent (lorm blowing from fouth-ealt ; hence now there is a hole
in the hill above, like the eye of a coal-pit, which is terrible to look down into : there ia
another, fomething like this in South- Ronaldfha. In thefe cavci--, doves and fea fowls in
great numbers ule to ncllle.

Several (Irangc filhcs are here taken, or cad afliore fometimes, which are, they fay, very
beautiful to look upon, but wc never had occafinn to lee any of them. There are like-
wife a great number of little whales, which fwim through thefe ifles, which they call
fpout-whales or pellacks, fome of which 1 have fecn ; and they tell us it is dangt rous
for boats to fall among them, led they be overturned by theni : the foruier yaxr (inno
1699, there was thirteen of thefe whales driven on fliore upon Gairfay's Land, and
eleven upon F.f;klha's, about one time, as the gentlemen themfelves did inform me, of
which oil is made, very beneficial to the maftcrs of the ground. The otters alfo, feals or
felchs, and other fuch fea-creatures arc very numerous, but now their number is fo much
diminifhed, that not one of twenty is to be feen, and they have found feveral of them
lying dead upon the (hore ; fome hence obierving that the judgments of God, as to fear-
city of fuitable provifions to thefe creatures, are upon the waters alfo.

The tides here are fo rapid that they will carry a (hip along with them, though the wind
be contrary, if not very ftrong, and in going among thefe illes fcarce are they out of one
tide when they are engaged in another ; and in going from place to place they will find
fometimes the fame flood for them, and at other times againfi them, and fn whh the ebb,
efpecially there are fome impetuous tides which they call rouds, caufcd by the (Irong
current of a tide meeting with a narrow paffage ; the quicknefs and rapidity of the tide»
compenfing the narrownefs of the paflfage, as it is in lanes, which Oraitcns the blowing
wind, and makes the wind to blow fo much the harder, in a proportion to the prefliire
it fuftcrs by the ftraits of the lane ; fo may we reafon concerning the roufts which run
among the ifles. I have feen fome of thefe roufts boil like unto a feething pot, with
their high, white, and broken waves in a calm fummer d.iv, when there was nti wind
blowing. At one time failing by the fide of Lafha Roufl. between Sanda and the Calf
of Eda, the rouft getting fome hold of us, turned about the head of our boat vei7 quick-
ly, and though there were four able young men rowing, befide the help we hn 1 by the
fail, we could not without great difliculty make our way through it : they tell us, that if
the greateft (hip in Britain fell into this rouft, where it is ftrongeft, it would tui n her »«■
bout at pleafure, and detain her till the tide fell weak, even though (he had a right fa-
vourable gale. Thefe rcufts are more dangerous in an ebb than in a flood, the ebb being
obferved (till, caicris ptrtbusj to make the fouleft and mod tempeltuous fea, and efpe-
cially they will foam and rage, if the tide be running in the wind's eye : and when there
is any ftorm, they will caule any (hip or boat to ftand on end and be ready to fink her in
the fall. Several of which roufts wc had occafion to meet with, but the Lord brought
us fafe through.

Though the general current of the tide be ftill the fame, from weft to eaft in a flood, and
from eaft to weft in an ebb yet running with violence upon the land, they caufe a contrary
motion in the fea next to it, which they call Eafter or Wefter Birth, according to its courfe.
And there are fonie things which have been obferved as very ftrange in the running of the
tides, as that it flows two hours fooner on the weft fide of Sanda than it doth on the eaft :
and at Hammonefs in the fame ifle, both ebb and flood runs one way except at the begin*
ning of a quick ftream, when for two or three hours the flood I'uns fouth j an North

Fair*

758

brand's description of ORKNEY,

Faira the Tea ebbs nine hours, and flows but three, but the realbns of thefe phenomena
vrill not be fu intricate or hard to refolvr, if wc confidcr the ruoaiion of thcfe ifles, where
the tide feems to alter his courfe ; for the flood coming from the weft to the weft fide of
Sanda, it takes fome time before it can get about the points of the iflc tu the Ibuth fide
thereof; fo in North F^ira, the fca is more open whence the flood comcth, but the ebb
nineth through feveral ifles, turning many points of land before it come to North Faira,
which cannot but retard its motion : To at Ilammoners in Sanda, the fituation of the place
much determineth the running of the tide.

The rapid motion of thefe tides among the ifles, and their meeting with one another
makes it very dangerou;), and fometimes more cfpccially in a calm. To a miniftor thorc
told us, that he was never nearer death in his life than in a dead calm when nigh to
Weftra, for they faw the fca coming, which tht-y thought would fwallow them up, and
there being no wind they could not get out of the way^ but God fo ordered it in liis wife
providence, that the fea or fwell of the fea which they feared broke on the fore-part of
the boat, and fo they efcaped.

There are frequently Finmen fcen here upon the coafls, aa one about a year ago on
Stroufa, and another within thefe few months on Weftra, a gentleman with many
others in the ifle looking on him nigh to the fliore, but when any endeavour to appre-
hend them, they flee away moft fwinly ; which is very ftrange, that one man, fitting in
his Utile boat, mould come fome hundred of leagues from their own coafts, as they
reckon Finland to be from Orkney ; it may be thought wonderful how they live all
that time, and are able to keep the fea fo long. His boat is made of feal-ikins,or fome
kind of leather, he alfo hath a coat of leather upon him, and he fitteth in the middle of
his boat, with a little oar in his hand, fifliing with his lines : and when in a ftorm he fees
the high furge of a wave approaching, he hath a way of Hnking his boat, till the wave pafs
over, leall thereby he fhould be overturned. The Bfliers here obferve that thefe Fin-
men or Finland-men by their coming drive away the fiflies from the coafts. One of
their boats is kept as a rarity in the Phyficians-Hall at Edinburgh.

On the weft fide of Papa Weftra, between it and Weftra, there is an Holm, wherein
once there was a little chapel, whereof fome of the fide-walls are now only ftanding, in
which they fay, there were feven fifters buried, who were nuns, anddefired to lie in this
holm, about whofe graves this chapel was built : about a year ago, there were feen
feveral times at mid-day, about twenty men walking on that holm, among whom there
vras one higher and greater than the reft, who fometimes ftood and looked unto the
chapel, this my informer with a hundred people in the ifle of Papa (aw, who could at-
teft the fame : after which appearance there was a boat caft away on that holm with
four men in her, who were all loft.

In the links of Tranaby in Weftra, and of Skeal in the mainlmd, wafhed from the
vreft by the Deucaledonian Ocean, fome places are difcovcred when the fea waflKih
away the fand, which fliews that fuch places have been cemeteries or burying places for
their dead of old, of a fquare figure, and the ftones are joined together by fotne cement,
when opened earth and fometimes bones are found in them ; the reafon fome do give of
this is becaufe the way of interring dead bodies among many of the ancients, (as among
the Saxons in the ifle of Britain) was not in deep graves, but under clods or turfs of
earth made into hillocks. But none of thefe we had oceafion to fee. Concerning that
rock called Lefs, furrounded with the fea, nigh to the Noup-h«*ad in Weftra, upon
which fome fay, if any man go, having iron on liim, the fea will inftanely rage, fo that no
boat can come nigh to take him off, nor the fea be fettled till the piece of iron be caft
into it i when ia Weftra we enquired about it, but found no ground for the truth
dtereof.

Mr.

cry.

ZBTI.AMP, PIOKTLANO'flllTH, AND CAITHNI.^S.

759

Mr. Wallace narrates a remarkable providence, which the niini(ler« here confirmed to
us ati a truth ; concerning four men in Stronfa who ufed to fiOi together in one boat,
amone; whom there was one John Smith whofe wife being doiirous he fliould intermit
his timing for a time, he having purchafcd a great plenty of fifli, which he not being fu
willing to do, on a day (he rifmg before him (topped the windows, and other places in
the houfc, whereby light was let in, and fo went to the fields -, the other three men after
their ufual manner went to fea, whofe boat (he faw overturned and themfelves peri(h ;
upon which (he returned home to her hiifband : and no doubt would have given the fad
news of his neighbours peri(hing, not without joy congratulating, that he was nut this
day in company with them : but upon her commg into her houi'e (he had yet a more
melancholy fight } her hufband lying dead, choaked in thatvelfel, wherein they ufed to
make urine.

An honeft man in Orkney told me that fome years ago, when he was coming home
with timber and Tome other tilings in his boat, from Innernefs, and was almod the length
of theifle of £da, where he hved, the boat turned and lay upon her fide, but the fails
being fprcad in the water hindered the mad to go down, and her altogether to overturn
much of what they had in went to the Tea, and he with the other feamen in company fat
upon the fide of the boat, and were fo for fome hours tolfed up and down, whither the
tide did drive them, they in the mean time comforting and refrcfhing one another with
places of fcripture and notes of fermons, which lately they had heard, and fometimes put<
ting up earned prayers to God whom the wind and feas do obey ; at lenjTith God not turn-
ing away his mercy from them, nor their prayer from him, gracioufly g.. ve ear unto their
cry, and brought tnem all fafe alhore together with the boat on the wed fide of Sanda,
much of the timber and what they had in being driven afhore to the very place before
them. A great mercy when not only they, but their boat, and mod of their loadening,
were faved. Some of^thofe men whom I nm acquainted with, and do judge godly, can-
not fpeak of this deliverance but with great concemednefs and afl'edion, which makes
me to think this mercy not to have been cad of common providence, but a gracious re-
turn of their prayer.

The cfFefts of thunder in this country are very furprifing ; 1670 thedeeple of Kirk<
wall was burnt with lightening : and anno 1 680, there was a gentleman in Stromnefs in
the wed end of the mainland had a dall, wherein there were twelve kine, the thunder
killed every other one, killing one and pa(ring another, fo that there were fix killed, and
fix alive ; this the miniilers confirmed as a certain truth to their knowledge.

There was a man that died not many years ago, who when a child being left in tha
field, (the mother, as fome fay, (hearing at a little didance from him) was taken up by
an eagle, and carried from the parilh of Orphir, in the mainland, to theifle of Waes over
three or four miles of fea, but in God's good providence, the ea^le being quickly pur«
fucd to his ned whither the child was taken, he was recovered without any hurt.

It was obfervcd that in thefe ifles before the late dearth, there were feveral drange birds
feen, fuch as they have not feen formerly nor fince. One of the miniders told me, that
one bird frequented his houfe about that lime for a quarter of a year, which was of a
black, white, red and green colour : as alfo he faw another, all driped or fprainged on
the back, which birds were beautiful to behold.

There was a monder about feven years ago born of one Helen Thomfon fpoufe to
David Martin, weaver, in North RonaKha, having his neck between head and (houiders
a quarter and an half of a yard long, with a face, nofe, eyes, mouth, &c. to the back,
as .well as before, fo that it was two faced, which monder, came living into the
world : this the minider declared unto us having taken the attedation of the women.

prefent

7 Co

BRANO'd DESCRIPTION OF ORKKBY,

prefent at the birth, he not being on the place at, the time : and it is faid that a certain
woman fliould hav6 wiflied this upon the mother, whom flie alledged had lyed upon her,
in her wrath wilhing, that if (he (poke a lie (he might bring forth a monfter, which ac-
cordingly caine to pafs in God's holy and wife providence.

Some fay there are feveral mines of filver, tin, lead, &c. Alfo fome veins of marble
and alabader ; Buchanan commends this country for white and black lead, of which
there is to be had as good as in Britain. Sex divsrfis in locis hujus iufula, metalla funt
plumhii aibi aiiJ nigri tarn prohi qiiatn usquain in Britannia reperiatur. As alfo feveral i
of fine (hells to be found on the fiioi'c and rocks, but wo had occafion to fee lione of
theia, fave fome of thefe nuts, whereof they make (huff-boxes.

t^HAP. V. — Some HeatheniPi and Po[t:jh Rites y C harms ^ tsfc. yet remaining in the Orkney

i.suwi;.:7i. t. ■,., h , r'^ Ijksy are glanced at^ '. ..:r.^ ' C '":'' ■ '."-

BFFORE that I bring to a clofo my difcourfe concerning Orkney, I flwillgivean ac-
count of fome cuftoms yet prevailing among them, which can be conllrutted to be no*
tiling ell'e fave the four dregs of Pagan and Popilh fuperftition and idolatry, yea and
many of them fuch as the charms prbdifed by them to be the mere and woeful effefts of
pure devilry, and not the produd of nature's operation.

But lead I (hould be millaken I judge it not amifs to prcmifc, that not alt nay nor the
generality of Orkney are hrcby impeached as guilty of thele evils, for I know there are
many judicious and wife men, and 1 hope fome real chrilUans anwng them, who abhor
and deleft fuch things as much as any, but hereby fome foolifh and filly ones are intend-
cd, whom, deceiving ami being deceived, fatan leadeth captive at his will ; nor yet that
all the ;ilcs are alike lying under the cl)argc, for there are fome of them, whole inhabi*
taPts are generally more moral and difcreet : neither is it alledged, that fuch finful and
corrupt cuftoms prevail as much now as formerly, for they are much away by what
tJiev were, and ihat even of late : nor is it denied but that honeft and faithful minillers
Avjll labour to have .them ;iboliflied every where, feeing alas ! there is much horrid
wickedncfs and manifcfl devilry too with us in the fouth, as well as with them in the
north, fo that no part of the kingdom can plead, not guilty.

But n.y principal fcope and dc^i^n is to manifeft the works of darknefs, and to (hew
bow bufy the god of this world is in deluding and blinding poor Ibuls, and how ready
we are to be his drudges and (laves ; that fo thefe things, being wifely and ferioufly con-
sidered, all may be induced to make a Chrillian improvement thereof, both with refpedt
fo themfelvcs and others, whom they are called to pity and pray for, " if peradventure
God will give them repentance to the acknowledging of the truth, that they may be re-
covered out of the Inare of the devil ;" and more el'pecially that the general alfemblies,
4nd other judicatories of this church as they are called, may be pleafed to continue their
tatherly care over thefe northern iflts, that though they be remote from them as to filu-
ation, yet they may be near unto th-jm as to a warm and kindly alFcftion, which ow
church hath nat been wanting in hitherto.

And firft wc wouUl take notice, that the old maxim " Ignorance is the mother of
devotion," fo much cried up by the Papillsand their judicially blinded clergy, is fo far
trom being the mother of devotion, that it is both the mother and nurfe of the OJoft
damnable errorfi. Superftitions and delufions, as thefe ifles know to their fad exper-
if'nce ; fur ignorance of the principles of our holy religion doth greatly prevail among
tJ»e commonalty, fo that as one of their minifters, not without fome concern and grief
iar the fame, toUi me^ Aot one of a hundred ia fome of their pariihes can read. How

3 **»'«

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND-FIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

761

#■

ihis comes to pnfs» that the people (hould be fo grofsly ignorant I fhall not undertake to
deterniine, it is commonly imputed to their want of fchools, through the country, which
indeed I will not lay, but is one great caufe thereof, and therefore that this fo very
dreadful an evil may be effeftually remedied, care fhould be taken by all concerned, that
fchools be eredted in every pariili, and a competent falary provided for the mailer's
maintenance and encouragement ; and that alfo in every ifle where there is any number
of inhabitants, fome perfon (hould be appointed for the inftrudion and education of
their children ; and until that fuch a courfe be taken, the people genei*ally will be igno-
rant dill, and the miniders as to the preaching part, may complain in the words of the
prophet, "Whom (hall we teach knowledge ? and whom fliall we make to underftand
dodtrine ? them that are weaned from the milk, snd drawn from the breads. " For it
is much about one to preach to auditors bcfottcd with ftupidity -.md ignorance, as it is
to give exhortation unto babes, therefore it is that our church in her aifemblics hath fo
frequently and ferioufly prelfed the learning of children to read, and the providing of
fchools for that end, paflors to be diligent in that initiating and necelfiiry work of exami-
nation and preaching catechetic dodrines, and the concurrence of parents with both in
laying out themfelves for the inftruftion of their children, as well by themfolvesas by
others; godly minifters well knowing that the fucccfs of ordinances and edification of
their people, dependeth iinich thereupon, as the means which the Lord ufeth to blefs
for the bringing in of his c'"dl ; knowledge being fo neceifary to the being of faith,
that the latter is fometimes cv'vrelTed by the name of the former.

And feeing they retain not God in their knowledge, it is no wonder they be given over to
a reprobate mind, to do things which are not convenient ; no wonder they frequent their
old chapels for fuperftitious ends, of which the corrupt and purblind reaibn of man hath
been always very fond : no wonder that being in the dark without the lanthorn of the
knowledge offcripture revelation, they midake their way, and by the ufing of charms
and confulting of charmers, they "run to Beelzebub, indcad of having recourfe to the
God of Ifrael." Which ignorance to be the caufe of thefe evils, will appear the more
evidently, if we confider, that in thefe ifles, where there is a greater mcafure of the know-
ledge of God, there is not fuch a following of thefe horrid and hellifij pradlices.

There arc fcvcral old chapels in thefe ifles, which the people refort unto, but that
which 1 heard of, as mod famous is. St. Tredwel's chapel in Papa-Wedra, which they have
fuch a veneration for, that they will come from other ifles in confidcri^'. le numbers to
it ; fome of us having occafion to be on that ifle, we faw this chapel, fituated on a fmall
low rock, within a loch commonly called St. Tredwel's Loch, to which we paflTed by dep-
ing dones ; be fore this ch.ipel door there was a heap of fmall doncs, into which the fu-
perditious people when they conie do cad a fmall done or two for their offering, and
fome will cad in money ; the chapel hath been but little, and is now ruinous, only fome
of the walls are danding, which the people are fo far from fuffering to be demoliflied,
that they labour to keep them up, and though the proprietor of the ground hath fome
way inclufed it, yet this proves not effeclual to prevent the frequenting thereof. At the
north-ead fide of the loch, nigh to the chapel, there is a high done danding, behind
which there is -.inother done lying hollowed in the form of a manger, and nigh to this
there is another high done danding with a round hole through it, for what ufe thefe
ftoncs ferved, we could not learn ; whether for binding the horfes of fuch to them as
came to the chapel, and giving them meat in the hollow done, or for tying the facridces
to, as fome fay, in the times of Pagan idolatry, is uncertain.

This St. Tredwel's Loch, nigh to the ead end of which this chapel is, is held by the peo-
ple as medicinal, whereupon many dilcafed and indnu perfons refort to it, fome faying that
VOL. m. 5 a thereby

76a brand's DHSCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

thereby they hnvc pot good ; as a certain gentleman's fitter upon the ille, who was not
able to go to this loch without help, yet returned without it ; as likewiCe a geiitleman in
the country who was much diftrefled wich fore eyes, went to this loch, and wafhiii>; there
became found and whole, though he had been at much pains and expence to cure them
formerly. With both which perfons he who was miniiler of the place for many years
was well acquainted, and told us that he favv them both before and after tht; cure, i he
prefent miniiler of Weftra told me that fuch as are able to walk, ufe to go fo many
limes about the loch as they think will perfed the cure, before they make any ufe of the
water, and that without fpeaking to any, for they believe that if they fpeak this will marr
the cure : "alfo he told that on a certain morning not long fince he went to this loch
and found fix fo making their circuit, whom with fome difficulty he obliging to fpeak,
faid to him they came there for their cure.

How it Cometh to pafs that this loch fliould accomplilh the cure of any I leave to
my reader to judge, whether it be by any medicinal orliealing virtue in the water, which
I incline not to think, the cure being fo circumftantiatcd, or if the force and ftrength of
the imagination of the perfons afHided may have any tendency that way, which fome
judge hath its own influence in fome fuch like cafes ; or rather by the aid and afliftance
of Satan, whom God in his holy and wife pi-ovidence may pL-riiiit fo to do, for the fur-
ther judicial blinding and burdening of thefe who ftjUow fuch unwarrantable and un-
lawful courles, God fo punilhing thorn by giving them up to fuch ftrong delufions : yet
I hear, that when they have done all that is ufual for tlicm to do, as going about the
loch, wafhing their bodies or any part thereof, leaving foinethintr at the loch, as old
clouts and the like, &c., it is but in few in whom the cilecl: of healing is produced. As
for this loch's appearing like blood before any difailcr bcfal the Royal Family, as fome
do report, we could find no ground to believe any fuch thing.

Thefe chapels the people frequent, as for other ends, fo for prayer, they placing a kind
of merit therein when performed in fuch places, and this they obfcrve more than pri-
vate retirements ; and if they be under any ficknefs, or in any danger, as at fea, they
will vow fo to do : and when they go to the chapels to pay the vows taken on, they
ufed to lay feveral ftones one above another, according to the number of vows which
they made, fome of which heaps wc faw in vSt. Tredwel's chapel; and none mud go
empty handed, but leave behind them fomcthing, either a piece of money, or of bread,
or a (lone, which they judge will be fufficient.

As at all times, when occafion offers, they obfervo thefe fuperflitious praflices, fo
efpecially during Lent they will not neglect their devotions in fuch places ; and on Ealler
Sunday feveral boats will be fecn going to them from other ifles : and though their
minillers both privately and pubhcly have fpoken to them, yet they cannot get them
to forbear and abandon thefe cuftoms. And the miniiler of South-Ronalflia told us,
that many of the people in that ide, efpecially fuch as live at the fouth end thereof nigh
to the kirk, called Our Lady's Kirk, whereof, though now the walls only be (landing
without a roof, yet 'he very flones thereof they reverence, and are not far from ador-
ing ; and fo tenacious arc they, that when in rough weather he hath procured the con-
veniency of a barn to preach in, yet the people obliged him to come to this ruinous
fabric, elfe many of them would not have heard : they are now about the putting of a
roof on this church, which the gentlemen of the ifle are not inclined to, judging other
places more commodious for it to be built in ; but propofals of this nature do not relifli
with the t"-'ople, they being fo fuperftitioufly wedded to the place of its prefent fituatlon :
whereupon the heads of families will rather by themfelves contribute to the repairing of
this old church, thaa fuffer a new one to be built in any other place of tlie ifle, though
Ids to their coll.

ZETLAND, PIGHTLANr-FlRTH, AND CAITHNESS. 7^3

In this olc .-'-ric of Our Lady's Church there is a ftone lying, about four feet long,
and tvo fect broad, but narrower and round at the two ends, upon the furface of which
ftone there is the print of two feet, concerning which the fuperftitious people liave a
tradition that St. Magnus, when he could not get a boat on a time to carry hiiu over
Pightland-Firth, took this Hone and fetting his feet thereupon pafTed the Firth
fafely, and left the (tone in this church, which liath continued here ever fuice ; but as
I think, and fome more judicious people do likewile fuggeft, it hath been a llone upon
which, under pnpery, the delinquents flood bare-footed fuftering penance. It is like
when thus St. Magnus came over the Firth, it hath been at that time, when he was feen
riding through Aberdeen, giving the firfl account of the defeat of the Engliih at Bun-
nockburn, and afterward was feen going over Pightland-Firth, And indeed botli are
alike dclHtute of any ihadow of truth, credible only by thefe fuperftitious and filly ones
whom the god of this world hath blinded.

Several of the ifles have their faints' days, which fome do fuperflitioufly obferve.
There is one day in harvefl on which the more ignorant, efpecially in Roufa, fay, if any
work the ridges will blood. The lark fome call our Lady's hen : and fome fuch popifli
dregs are to be found : the Lord prcferve this land from popery's inundation j for as it
is credible from what hath been faid, and fome better acquainted with this country did
inform us, that if popery get footing again (from the fears of which in the good provi-
dence of God we were lately delivered) many of the inhabitants of thefe ifles would
readily embrace it, and by retaining fome of thefe old popifli rites and cufloms feem to
be in a manner prepared for it.

Next to glance at their charms, which I ftiall briefly do, and not give any account
how they perform them, left thereby I ftiould feem to point out to any how to try the
experiment of this hellifti art and tremendous devilry, which I think I do fufficiently
guard againft, not only by barely reciting there are fuch, but alfo by proper precautions
adduced in this chapter.

They have a charm whereby they ftop exceflive blooding in any, whatever way they
come by it, whether by or without external violence. The name of the patient being
fent to the charmer, he faith over fome words, (which I heard,) upon which the blood
inftantly ftoppeth, though the blooding patient were at the greateft diftance from the
charmer : yea, upon the faying of thefe words, the blood will ftop in the bleeding throats
of oxen or flieep, to the aftonifliment of-fpedators ; which account we had from the
minifters of the country.

There is a charm likewife they make ufe of for the tooth-ach, whereof I had the fol-
lowing inftance from an honeft man worthy of credit. Some years ago there was one
who ufed this charm, for the abating the pain of one living in Eda tormented therewith,
and though the aftion then was at a diftance, the charmer not being prefent with the
patient, yet according to the moit exacl calculation of the time when the charm was
performed by the charmer, there fell a living worm out of the patient's mouth when he
was at fupper : this my informer knew to be a truth, and the man from whofe mouth
it fell is yet alive in the ille of Sanda. Whether this worm was generated in the cor-
rupted part, and fo foil out by the devil's means at the ufing of the charm, or the worm
was brought by an evil fpirit aliunde to the mouth, and thence tailing down, I fliall not
determine.

Alfo when the bcafts, as oxen, ftieep, horfes, &c. are fick, they fprinkle them with a
water made up by them, which they call Fore-fpoken-water ; wherewith likewife they
fprinkle their boats when they iucceed and proi'per not in their fifliing : and efpecially
on Hallow-even, they ufe to fein or fign their boats, and put a crofs of tar upon them,
which my informer hath often feen. Their houfes alfo foiue ulc then to fein,

5 E 2 They

:V'.1

wim-

mm^^

764 brand's description of ORKNEY,

They have a charm alfo whereby they try if pt-rfons be in a decay or not, and if they
will die thereof, whicli they call Calling of the Heart. Of this the ininifter of Stronza
and Eda told us li-j had a very remarkable paffage, in a procefs yet ftanding in his feffion
records.

Several other charms alfo they have about their marriage, when women in travail,
when their cow is calving, when churning their milk, or when brewing, or when their
children arc fick, by taking thcni to a Imiih (without prenionifhing him) who hath had
a finith to his father and a fmith to his grand-father. And of fevcral fuch like charms,
we had an account from the niiniilers, as likewife how thefe charms were performed j
but of ihefe enough.

Although thefe charms fometimes, yet not always do they produce the defired cfFefts ;
as in the inftance of Haying of blood, one of the charmer's wives fell once a bleeding,
which he by all his art was not able to Hop ; whereupon he is faid thus to have ex-
preHed himfclf : ** I have Hopped the bleeding of an hundred, and yet I cannot do it to
my wife."

That fuch admirable cffefts upon the ufing of the charms are produced by the agency
of demons, I think few, if any, will doubt, God fo permitting it to be in his holy and
wife providence, for the further punidiment and judicial blinding of thole who follow
fuch unlawful courfes, and the devil thereby engaging his Haves more in his fervice : yet
not always the effefts defired and expeded do follow, that all may know the devil is a
chained one, and can do nothing without the permiffion of a fovereign God, who is
Lord over all. Our afl'emblies, fenfible of the great fin and evil that is in ufing thefe
charms, and confulting of charmers, have made feveral ads both againd the one and
the other, ftridly inhibiting and difcharging all fuch hellifh pradices, and requiring all
niinifters diligently to fee to the obfcrvance and execution thereof.

Evil fpirits, alio called fairies, are frequently feen in feveral of the ifles dancing and
making merry, and fometimes feen in armour : alfo I had an account of the wild fenti-
ments of fome of the people concerning them j but with fuch I ihall not detain my
reader, we hallening our voyage to Zetland.

A DESCRIPTION OF ZETLAND.

Chap. VI. — Tbe Country in general Jefcribed. The SoiU Produil, Manners of the PeopUt

iik. hinteJ at.

ZETLAND lies to the north-cafl from Orkney, between the Cxtieth and fixty-firft
degree of latitude, there being about twenty or twenty-one leagues betwixt the Start-
Head of Sanda, the northcmniofi point thereof, and Swinburgh-ilcad, the fouthornmolt
pc^nt of land in ZetlaiKJ, over a very rolling and fwolling fea, wherein thtre cnndantly
runs the (trong current of a ride, which cauling liie foa to rife with its fwclling waves,
the whole paffcige betwixt Orkney and Zetland is but as one continued louH, or llrong
and impetuous liJejcipccially about the Tair-Iilc, ilill luch a great fca goeth,evenin tfie
greatefi calm, that the boat^ are like 10 fting the mails out of thom ; and our boat-
mailer told us, that frequently wht-n he hid been palling the Fair-llle in a dead calm,
the boat hath been fo toffed by the fwellhig loa, that it would have taken in water on
every fido ; and I have heard th.' mariners often declare, that there is more hazanl in
thefe feas i!.an in going to the Ea':ern or Wcdern Indies. The Fair-lile (of which
more afterward) is reckoned to be but tight leagues from Zetland, whereas it is about

6 twelve

ZETLAND, PIGHTLAKD-WRTH, AVD CArTHNESS. 765

twelve or thirteen leagues from Orkney j fo that we fliall confidcr it together with the
iflcs bel nging to Zetland.

Zeiland confilleth of more ifles than v.)rkney, whereof fome are more, others lefs
conliderable, befide many holms ferving for padurage. The largell of them is that
wliicli they call the Mainland, fixty miles long from fouth or fouth and by weft, to
Jiorlh or north and by ealt : as to breadth not all alike; for t*^oui;h in fome places it
bt* fixtetn miles, yet in others it is fcarce one mile broad, it b ing foMnierfefted with
voes, founds, or lochs, that it may be faid to co ififl: of a great mnnber of promontories
or branches of land ftretching ihemfelves into the fea.

All this country, confifting of fo many ifles goeth under one common name, called
by fome Hcthland, by others Zetland, and alfo Schetland. The etymology of which
names is very uncertain, as was that of Orkney, fome afligning one reafon of the name,
and others another at their pleafure : that which feimeth moll probable is, that this
country is called llethland, becaufe it is very mountainous, and rifeth high above the
waters J fo a high land in Norfe is called I highland : it is called Zeland, or Zetland,
becaufe of the great fea wherewith on all hands it is encompaffed, zee being fea in that
language: and called Schetland, becaufe of a kind of cuflom or tribute called Scat,
which they paid to their Norwegian mailers when they were in pofl'elfion of this country,
and the tribute or cuftom impofed upon the inhabitants of Norway to this day is called
Scat \ and though Zetland be now annexed to the crown of Scotland, yet there is a cer-
tain rent or due which the gentlemen and lome others here do pay yearly to the King
or his Iteward, uhich is dill called ^cat. I fay, although we cannot be pofitive in deter-
mining the reafons of the name, yet it feems to be of a N>rw ijian or Danifh original.

Seeing I have already had under confuieration by whom Orkney was firft planted
and inhabited and how it hath been difpofed of hitherto, I judge it not very needful
for me to add any more to that purpofe concerning ZetlamI ; for it is more than pro-
bable that about the fame time, by the fame perfons, h ah Zetland alfo been inhabited,
feeing there are many more Pids houfes remaining there, and fome of them as to out-
ward appearance in better cafe, than ar. to bv found in Orkney, and ahvaysour hifto-
rians in their defcriptions of thele northern iflt s of Orkney aitd Zetland have reckoned
them as under the government of the fame mailers •, therefore without further premifing
preliminaries of this nnture, I come to confidjr the prolont (lute of the country.

Although the country be large, yet it is in many places but thinly inhabited, and
that for the moll part upon the coads, and indeed otherwifeit cannot well be, for there
are few, if any, places in Zetland but they are within two mi es ol the fea, which they
incline to dv-ell Mi^li unto, being more convenient for their lilhing, and for the gooding
of their land, which is ordinarily by fea-ware, hence it wo'ild be incommodious for
them upon thele accounts to be at ar.y diltance fn)in it. Befides, the country is gene-
rally muffy and nuiuntainous, all covered over witii heath, y<'a the far greater part
thereof is as one great mofs or quagmire made up of water ami earth Ulended together,
which kind of giound would require nmch labour and expence to bring in either to ba
grazing or corn land, if at all in many places they could get it done ; tor from Scalloway"
on the welt fide of tho Mainland, to Lerwick on the call fide thereof, four miles over
land, it is but a continued trad of mofs and moor, fo that there is not one houfe "11 that
way, till we come near unto Lerwick ; whereas we would think that this piece of ground
fhould be better inhabited tiian many others, confidering the great relort of flrangers
in the fummer time thereunto, if nature had not laid fuch inconveniences in the way,
which would prove lo diilicult to overcome.

The

!t;:ll

■■ Hi

766

brand's description of ORKNEY,

The people are generally iHfcrcet and civil, not fo ruftic and clownifh as would be
expe(5led in fiich a place of the world, which in;;y be much owing to th^'ir convcrfe and
commorce with llningL-is, \\ho repair to thefe iflcs in the fumnurilafon, with whom the
inhabitants do keep a conltant bartering or trade ; which trailing as it makes them the
better to live, fo it may tend not a little to the cultivating of their manners. They are
alio very fafhionable in their cloaths, and the gentry want not their fine ItufTs, fuch as
Holland, Hamburgh, kc. do attbrd, fo that they are to be feen in as good an order and
drefs as with us in the fouth : the boors, fifliers, and other country people alfo do go
hon-jH-like aiul dt.ceiu in their ai)pari.l, as bocumcth their llation.

They alfo have always been in repute for hofpitality, and indeed we have feen no
other to contradid that which is fpokeii fo much to their commendation and praife ; for
at anv time when we had occafion to vifit gentlemen, merchants, or others, we were ,
always by them kindly entertained : and fo much aro^thcy faid to be given to this com-
mendable piece of humanity, that if they do purchafe any thing from foreign merchants,
which they put any value upon, fuch as wheat-tiread, fome (Irong liquor, &c. even the
country people will not ufe it themfelvcs, but rcferve it for the entertainment of ft ran-
gers. As for thofe old inhabitants of the Danifli blood, of whom it was faid, " that they
were feeming fair, but really falfe, and fuperlaiively proud," they are much worn out
of this country ; and if at any time fhips be driven afliore upon their coads, the inhabi-
tants ufe very kindly and humanely to treat the diilreflfed company, of which humane
treatment a fhip belonging to the Firth had a late experience, being broke on the coaft
there in December laft, as Tome of the fliip's company informed me. Such a kind and
generous reception merchants and mariners meet not with in many places upon which
they are unhappily call, from whom better things would be cxpeded. In the matters
of God and religion the body of the people are faid to be very ignorant, by thofe who
know them better than we can be fuppofed to have had accefs to do, confidering the
fliort time of our Hay and abode among them ; which may be imputed to their want of
convenient fchools for the inftrudion of their youth in many places of the country ;
which alfo was aflignod as the reafon why ignorance doth fo much prevail in the Ork-
ney ifles ; which great evil, the mother and leader of many others, all Ihould labour to
redrefs as they are feverally called and concerned, authority alfo interpofing their com-
mand, and not denying their countenance and encouragement thereunto.

Yet we nuiit fay, that the people do frequent the difpenfmg ofgofpel ordinances, and
fecm to hear with fome meafure of attention and reverence, and as appeared to us, not
without fome ferioufnefs and concern upon their fpirits, which after hearing continued
with fome, as we found by our converfe with them; which encouraged us to fet and
keep up two week-day fennons at Lerwick during our (lay in the bounds, which the
people thronged unto, thereby (luwing great refpec^ to the ordinances difpenfed by us ;
fo that matt( rs l oked far otherwifo than what was expicled by ourfilves and many
others before we c.unc to this country. And indeed, after confi rence upon this head,
all of us judged that if things were got put into a better order, and fome evils removed,
which I forbear to nuhtion, knowiiir^ that they will come under the cognizance and
confideration of others, who are in a capacity to redrefs ihein, there might be a harvcit
throu;^h grace.

Although there be a Latin fchool at Kirkwal in Orkney, yet there is none in all this
country, which cannot but be very prejutiicial to the inhabitants, the ad\ancemcnt of the
education of their youth bting tlurehy hindered, many promifing and pregnant ingenys
lod, and letters dilcouraged ; lor gentlemen are eith- r obliged Ui keep their children
at home, and fo they mult want that piece of learning which tends fo much to form and

4» poUih

ZETLAND, PlOHTLAND-riRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

1^1

polifh tlicir minds, and to complete tl.ein as gentlemen, or clfe fend them to other coun-
tries wiiere education is to be had, which many are averfe to do, not only becaufc of
the charge and expcnce they will be at, but alio of the fear they will be in, in fending
their children over fea, and keeping them fo long at fuch a (!iflance from them. As for
chaplains, though they could be had, which would be with difliculty in this corner, yet
all gentlemen who have children to educate cannot well bear the charges of bringing
them over from Scotland, and keeping them with them for fo long a time : whereupon
the miniflers there are very dt firous that the government may be addrefl'cd for encou-
ragement to ichool-mafters through the country, and particularly that a Latin fthool
be fet up cither at Lerwick or bcalloway.

Englifli is the common language among them, yet many of the people fpeak Norfe,
or corrupt D.inifli, efpecially fuch as live in the more northern ifles ; yea, fo ordinary
is it in fome places, that it is the firfl language their children fpeak. Several here alfo
fpeak good Dutch, even fervants, though they have never been out of the country, be-
caufe of the many Dutch fliips which do frequent their ports. And there are fome who
have fomething of all rhefe three languages, Knglilh, Dutch, and Norfe. The Norfe
hath continued ever fince the Norwegians had thefe ifles in pofloflion ; and in Orkney
(as hath bi'en faid) it is not quite extinct, though there be by far more of it in Zetland,
which many do commonly ufe.

It is obfervable that the names of the defcendants of the old inhabitants differ from
the names of others now numerous among them, for thefe only have a name without a
firnanu", lave whut is taken fnMU their father's name, and by adding fon or daughter
thereunto, f.\rw^o. ^^nr. Agnes Magnus daughter ; her own name is Agnes-, her father's
is Magnus, to which daughter is added, which is the whole denomination or defignation
under which fuch a woman goes : lo Marion, Peter's daughter ; Laurens, John's fon,
&c., whicli they lay is yet the Danilh way of expreflinu and dillinguilhing names : and
for further cleiiring, if there be two men or women of the fame name, they ufe alfo to
dcfign them by the places where ihcy ordinarily refide, as Agnes Magnus daughter in
Trebiller, that fo (he may he difcriminated from another woman of the fame name living
in another place. It is probable that hence flowed thefe firnames, fuch as Williamfon,
Robertfon, Jamiefon, Davidfon, «kc , which do abound with us in Scotland. In fome
words a'lo thoir pronunciation doth differ from that of ours ; as for inflance, they often
ufe to V ave out the letter h in their pronunciation, as if it did not belong to the word ;
fo three they pronounce as trcc^ thou as ton or /«, &c. They have alfo fome Norilh
words which they conimoniy ufe, which we underltnod not till they were explained ;
fuch as air, w hich fignifies a land-bank ; oyfi\ an inlet of the fea ; loc, a creek or bay,
&c. : and thefe words are much ufeil both in Zetland and Orkney.

!t would appear that ihe country is now much better inhabited than formerly fome
ages ago it hath been ; for we hear but of few who leave this country, having once fixed
their abode therein, though there be many who have lately come to it frotn Orkney,
Caithnefs, Sutherland, Bnchan, and other places, efpecially in the north of Scotland :
fo that in all Lerwick, the moll confulerable town in the country, there are but very
few whole grand fathers have lived in thofe ifles. And in Lerwick itfelf, about thirty
years ago, thi-re were only four houfcs, and fome years before there were none at all>
though now there are between two and three hundred families in it.

Though the ground be gen* rally bad, and the climate cold, yet it is not unwholefome
living here, as appears from the many vigorous old people that abound in the ifles,
whole health ! think is rather more lirni and found than with usj neither are they
liable to fuch frequent fickjiels : whether this is to be imputed to the frcenels aiid purity

v'i

768 brand's Dr.dCRlPTION OF 0RKK5Y,

of the air, or to the qnulity of their iliet, or the fobriety of ilieir living, or to all thefe
and the like, I fliall not jiidRc : yet they tell us they ufid to live much longer in former
ages than now they do ; as of one Tairvile, who lived one hundred and tighty years,
and all his time never drank beer or ale : his fon alio and grand-children lived to a good
old ajre, who felJom or never drank any other thing fave milk, water, ai.d their coun.
try-bland. It is (aid alio that this 'I'airvile's father lived longer than himfelf. Tliere
was alfo one Laurentius, in the paiilh of Waes, whofe heir-oyes do yet live there, who
arrived at a great a;^e, whum Huchanan mentioneth that he lived in his time, marrying
a wife after the hundredth \ear of his age, and in the one hundred and fortieth went a
fifhing with his little boat when the fea was teinpe'luous. Salubrilatis firmitiulo in J.au-
rentio quodam nojira atatc a^pariaty qui poj} ccntcftmtim annum uxorcm duxit : centtfmuni
^uiidr ^tfinium annum ay^ais, farij/imo marc in fud naviculd pifcaUtm prodihat : ac tiuper
fiulla vi gravioris morN lid'cfiidtatus^fcdfiniojolutut dcccffit. For furely as all fkilful phyfi-
cians do grant there is nothing more conducive to the maintaining of a found and health-
ful conditutiun than a foberand regular diet ; whereas th(7 who liveotherwife, to fpeak
nith refped to fecond caufes, do impair their "health, and cut themfelves ofl* often in the
midft of their days ; efpecially fuch as feed high, and indulge themfelves in drinking
ftrong liquors, which tends to the exhaufling of tliat natural and innate heat, the foun-
tain of our animal life ; w hereas it is obferved of all thcfe who arrived at fuch a great
age that they feldom, if ever, drank any llrong liquor.

There is no ficknefs ordifcafe this country is more fubjedt unto than the fcurvy, as is
Orkney likewife, which is occafioned doubtlefs by their falt-meats, fiflies, upon which
many for the moft part do live, fea-air, &c. : and fometimcs this fcurvy degenerates into
a kind of leprofy, which tiiey call a Ballard-fcurvy, and is difcerned by hairs tailing
from the eye-brows, the nofe falling in, &c.; which when the people come to know, they
feparate and fet them apart for fear of infe«5lion, building huts or little houfes for them
in the field : I faw the ruins of one of thcfe houfes about half a mile from Lerwick,
where a woman was for feme years kept for this reafon. This baflard leprofy they
judge is caulVd by the many grey fiflics, fuch as fillucks, piltocks, &c. which they eat ;
lor bread failing many of the people in the fummer-time, that often for four or five
months they will not tafte thereof, thefe fifhesare almoil their only meat, and efpeciallf
the livers of thefe fiflies, wiiich are thought to be more unhealthful tluin the fifhesthcm'-
felves, and they much incline to eat, do occifion this. The drinking alfo ( f hot blanj
(which is a kind of a feruin of milk, of which more afterwards) together with thefe
fiflies, do beget fuch corrupt humours, to the dillempering of the body. Thefe fcor-
butic perfons are more ordinarily in Dunrofsn fs and Delton, and more rare in
other places, and that becaufe they have more grey fiflies in thefe two pariflics than ia
others.

And it hath been obferved often by the inhabitants, that when in holy providence any
ficknefs cometh upon, or breaketh up in, the country, it ufcth to go through them like
a plague ; fo that liucc.we came off the finall-pox hath iuzed upon many, both old and
young, and was lb univcrlal, that upon one Lord'sday tlicre were ninety prayed for in
the church of Lerwick, all fick of the fame difeafe; whereas when we were there a i&w
weeks before, there was not one that we knew fick thereof. They fay a g ntlem n's
fon in the country who had lately gone from the fourh, and was under it when he came
.home, brought it with him, which very quickly fpread among the people, the t)lii as well
as the young; and fo fiid have been the del'olating effects thereof, that one told me
who arrived here lately from the place, that he verily jiulgcth the third part of the
people in many of the ifles are dead thereof.

Although

ZETLAND, PICHTLANCl-flRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

769

Although many of the inhabitants have each their particular trades and employments
wherein more efpecially they lay out themfelvea, and are taken up about, vet arc they
alt generally fome way acquainted with the fea, and can with fome dexterity and fkill
attamed by experience manage their boats, not onlv becaule of their frequent paHlng
from ifle to ifle, and going ov^r the voes or lochs which lie in upon, and cut the Main-
land, but by reafon of their great hfliing, not only for their own ufe, but for the ufe of
merchants who buy their fifties, or give them the value in foreign commodities : hence
molt of the inhabitants not only have fome pafturagc for their cattle, and fome corn land
about their houfes which they manure, but alfo their parts of boats for the end afore-
faid. Yet there are many who follow no trade but their fifliing.

Bcfide their fiOi trade with foreign merchants, they do iikewife drive a great trade
with Orkney, from which every year feveral boats do pafs to Zetland loadcn with corns,
meal, malt, &c. upon the coming whereof they often wait for barley-feed, though the
laft year they had a confiderable crop, fo that the barley-feed was fown before the boats
came over. The Orkney men alfo bring fometimes ftockings, ale, and the like, which
they know to be vendible here : hence every year confiderable fums of money go from
Zetland to Orkney, and fome have told me that mod of the money they have in Orkney
is from Zetland. So great is the advantage that thefe ifles do reap by their neighbourly
commerce with one another, for as Zetland could not well live without Orkney's corns,
fo neither could Orkney be fo well without Zetland's money.

As Orkney have much of their money from Zetland, fo Zetland have all theirs from
foreign nations and countries, whofe merchants traffic with them, as from Holland,
Hamburgh, Breme, &c. The Dutch money doth ordinarily pafs among them, as fti-
vers, haU-lHvers, and fmce the rates of the money were raifed in Scotland, many here
have been confiderable gainers by the ducket-douns, which is the fpecies of money that
the Hollanders bring more ordinarily with them.

The king's rents are but the third part of what they are in Orkney ; for though this
country be by far greater and more fpacious than Orkney, yet it is not fo well inhabited,
neither is the ground fo good : thefe rents are paid to the taxmen in butter, oil, and
money ; the oil is made of the livers of filhes, and is fent fouth for the making of foap,
or is otherwife difpofed of, as may be moft advantageous. The bifliops had no rents
from this country j and, though it belongs to the diocefe of Orkney, and is a confider-
able part of that charge, yet we did not hear that ever any of thefe foul paftors of their
dioccfes, as fome are pleafed to call them, vifited thefe bounds.

There being fo little corn-land here, is the caufc why none of the revenues of the
crown are paid in meal or corns, whereas in Orkney it is far otliorwife, as hath been
faid ; for any corn-land they have is ordinarily but a few ridges nigh to the coafts, for
at any diftance from the fea, and in many places alfo nigh unto it, there is nothing but
a mofiy and mountainous defert covered with haJder, and only fome places pleniflied with
a few kine, Iheep, or flielties, though in other places you will go fome miles and fee none.
This mofs and moor, which fo much aboundeth, renders tiavelling very dangerous, even
to the natives themfelves, and fo deep is it in many places and that in the fummer and
droughty feafon, that horfes cannot pafs it, and men on foot not without difficulty and
hazard : as in the iOe of Yell the minifter, in going to the church from his houfe, is
obliged to go on foot eieht miles almod wading up to the knees. And indeed the eafieft
and fafed way of travelling is by fea in boats about the Ikirts of the ifles, which alfo is
not without danger.

And though the greateft part of this country be thus moflfy and moorifli, yet there are
fome pleafant fpots in it well furniihed with grafs and com, as nigh to Scalloway,

VOL. III. 5 F Uftnefs,

770

BRANDS DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

Uftncfs, &c. in the Mainland, fomc places in tlio pariftiM of nunrcflhefs alfo on the
main, in the ide of Unft, &c. Hence fome years they will have twenty-fold of incrcaC?,
but this is more rare, for at other times, in fcveral p'ucos, they will fcarce have the
double of their feed. They make much ufe of barley-breail, which appears to be fairer
than their oat-bread, for their barley they take to be ihc bed grain, it agreeing better with
the ground then oats. And as it is in Orkney lb is it liore, if any white corn be brought
unto the country for feed, it will foon degenerate and become like thiir own.

I think the kme and ftiecp are of a greater fize, than they are in Orkney, though their
horfes be of a Icfs ; as for the (heep I tako them to be little Ids than tht\ are in many
places of Scotland ; they lamb not io foon as with us, for at the end of May their iambs
are not come in feafon ; their harveft alfo is much later, for they judge it very early if
they get their corns in againft the middle of Odober ; they obforve iliat our feafons
will be two months before theirs, but I do not think tjioy difler fo much.

If their Iheep were well kept, it would be very pleafunt to behold them in flocks, they
being of divers colours : fomc of a pied, others hfa. hnnvn, others of a brown and white,
others of a black colour, fome alfo have black fpraino^ on their barks, others on their
foreheads ; and fome fay they have as great a number of black flue p as they have of
white ; which diverfity of colours would render them very beHutiful, if they wore taken
due care of; for they neither walh nor clip their (heep, nor have they any fheers for
that end, but pull the wool off them with their hands ; which as it is painful to the
beafls, fo it makes them look not fo well favoured, but like thefc with us, whofc wool
is fcratched with briars or thorns.

Their ordinary drink is milk or water, or milk and water together, or a drink which
they call Bland, mod common in the country, though not thought to be very wholc-
fome ; which fo they make up, having taken away the butter from their churned milk,
as likewifc the thicker parts of this milk which remains after the butter is taken our,
they then pour in fome hot water upon the ferum, whey, or the thinner part of the
milk in a proportlt n to the milk. "Which being done, they make ufe of it for their
drink, keeping fome for their winter provifion : and this drink is fo ordinary with
them, that there are many people in the country who never faw ale or beer in all their
lifetime ; the ale is rare among them, they making bread of much of their barley-grain,
but the Hamburgh beer both fmall and llrong is to be had in plenty, though at a good
rate, fix (hillings or eight fhillings our pint ; which beer and other liquors, as alfo wheat-
bread the Hamburghers bring with them in the month of May for fale, hence fome-
timcs liquors, as beer, ale, &c. cannot be had for money, till the Hamburghers
bring it.

The great confluence of ftrangers makes kine, flieep, hens, and almofl: all viduals to
fell at a greater rate than in Orkney, for often when the buflios are here, they will give
double or triple for a iheep, or a hen, than it is to be bought in Orkney for ; for the
Hollanders with their buflies being numerous on thefe coafls, they fend fometimes
afliore to buy frefh meats, which if to be had, they will not want for the price.

They have fowls, efpecially fea-fowls, in great plenty, which do frequent the rocks,
holms, &c. which they take as they do in Orkney, and are very beneficial to the pro-
prietors. There are alfo many eagles, which do great prejudice and hurt to the
country ; for the lambs they will lift up in their clawc, and take whole to their nelts,
and falling down upon the iheep, they fix one loot on the ground and the other on the
iheep's back, which they having fo apprehended, they firft pick out their eyes, and
then ufe the carcafes as tney pleafe. All forts of duck and drake, duntergeefe, cleck^
geefe, ember-geefe, &c. they have as in Orkney.

a They

ZBTI.AMD, PIOHTLAND-riRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

;7«

They liavc many crows, but neither here nor in Orkney are they of that colour which
they are ot with us ; for their heads, wings, and tail, only are black, but their back
and bread from thu neck to the tail are of a grey colour, and the country people look
upon it as a bad otnen, when black crows come to thefe ifles, they portending that a
famine will fliortly enfue.

There are many conies in fome places, but no hares, neither are there any moor-
fowls, which are numerous in Orkney ; fome fay that a few from Orkney have been
brought over for trial, but they could not live here : no poddocks or frogs are to be
feen, though many in Orkney. Neither are there any rats to be found, except in
l()me ifles, and thci'o are greater than ordinary, and thought to come out of fliips, whctt
riding at anchor nigh to the Oiorc, but they have mice in abundance. Neither are
there are any vcnouious creatures in thefe ifles. They have many otters, one of which
was fo tamed that it frequently ufed to bring fiflies out of the fca to a gentleman's houfc
in Hafliaftiie, as one told me who knew the truth thereof.

They have a fort of little horfes called flielties, than which no other are to be had if
not brought hither from other places ; they are of a lefs fize than the Orkney horfes,
for Come will be but nine, others ten nivcs or hand-breadths high, and they will be
thought big horfes there if eleven ; and although fo fmall yet are they full of figour and
lif(.', and fome not fo high as others often prove to be the llrongeft, yea there are fome
whom an able man can lift up in his arms, yet will they carry him and a woman behind
him eight miles foru ard and as many back : fummer or winter they never come into
a houfc, but run upon the mountains in fome places in flocks, and if at any time ia
winter the ftorm be fo great that they are flraitened for food, they will come down from
(he hills, when the ebb is in the fca, and eat the fea-ware, (as likewife do the flieepj) which
winter ftorm and fcarcity of fodder puts them out of cafe, and bringeth them fo very
low, that they recover not their ftrength till about St. John's mafs day, the 24th of
Juno, when they are at their bell : they will live till a confiderable age, as twenty-fix,
twenty-eight, or thirty years, and they will be good riding in twenty-four, efpecially they
will be the more vigorous and live the longer, if they be four years old before they be
put to work. Thefe of a black colour are judged to be the moll durable, and the pied
often prove not fo good ; they have been more numerous than now they are ; the bed
of them are to be had in Sanfton and Elton, alfo they are good in Waes and Yell,
thefe of the leaft fize are in the northern ifles of Yell and Unft.

The coldnefs of the air, the barrcnncfs of the mountains on which they feed, and their
hard ufage may occafion them to keep fo little, for if bigger horfes be brought into the
country, their kind within a little time will degenerate y and, indeed, in the prefent
cafe we may fee the wifdom of Providence, for their way being deep and mofly in
many places, thefe lighter horfes come through when the greater and heavier would
fink down : and they leap over ditches very nimbly, yea up and down rugged mofly
braes or hillocs with heavy riders upon them, which I could not look upon but with
admiration, yea 1 have feen them climb up braes upon their knees, when otherwife
they could not get the height overcome, fo that our horfes would be but httle if at all
ferviceable there.

The great fifhing which they have upon the coafls makes the place defirable to the
natives, and to be frequented by Itrangers, it excelling any other place of the King of
Britain's dominions for herring, white and grey fifliing ; the white fifliing they call the
killin and ling, kc. their grey the filliiksand feths; there are alfo fometimes very (trange
filhes here to be found, as about twenty-four years ago there came a great number of
fmall thick fiflios into a vo^.' on the fouth-fidc of Nefton ; they were of a golden colour,

5^2 * very

77a

brand's DESCRIPriON OP ORKNEY,

very <f>Ioarunt to behold, tlu'y were about the bignefs of an ordinary trout, and all of an
equal (izc ; tliey being very numerous, the country made much uTe of them, who judged
ihem very favoury, taiUftg likv a turbot ; and never before or lincc that time were thefe
(ifhesfocn in thefe feae, as my informer an old gentleman could remember. Their tulk
is a rare filh but more ordinary with them, of which more when we come to fpeak of
their fifliing. Alfo many rare fliclls are to be found on the coads, but we had not
time to inquire and look after them.

Through the ifles for fewcl they have good peats in abundance, though in fome
places they are at a didance from them, as tnofe who live in the Skerries arc obliged
to bring them from other ifles, as from Whalfey, and the paiVage being dangerous many
boats arc cad away with them ; fome alfo living in Dunrofnci's are at a lofs this way,
they not having the mofs at hand, as generally they have in other places on the Main.
Muck broken timber alfo is driven afliore upon thefe ifles, fo that the inhabitants of the
Skerries trud the one half of their provifion to this dl'iven timber, and broken Ihips
in great quantity often caft a(hore, partly through the many fliips that fplit on thefe
ifles, and partly as the wreck of fliips cafl aw.ay at fome didance, which is brought
here by the ebb from Norway, or other places lying to the eafl of Zetland.

There are no trees in this country more than in Orkney ; we law fume old white
and weather-beaten ilocks (landing in Scalloway ; tor whatever reafons may be alledired
for trees not growing in Orkney, far more do 1 judge they will hold in Zetland, both
with refpeft to the air and to the foil ; there are alfo at Scalloway fome goof.- and
rizzer-berry bufhes, which ufe every year to be laden with fruit, which are a great rarity
in this place of the world.

• Many excellent herbs arc found growing here, though little known or made ufe oft
a certain Englifh phyfician and fl^illed botanilt who was at Lerwick fome years ago,
told our hull, that there were many choice and rural herbs here not to be found in
England. They have much fcurvy.grafs, God fo ordering it in his wife providence
thzt juxta venerium naj'citur antidotunit that fceinp; tbe fcurvy is the common difeafe of
the country, they (hould have the remedy at h.d.d.

There is here much lime-done, (though for uught I heard not to be found in Orkney,)
which in fome places they have but lately come to the knowledge of, as in Und but
about four years fmce, and in other places they know not yet how to ufe it ; the
parifli of Tingwal (they fay) coiififts almoil of lime-ftone, they having few if any other
ftones than fuch.

The Aones wherewith they build arc generally broad, and like flag-doncs ; by reafon
of which figure and (hapc the dones lying the more eafily, the builders are at Icfs trouble
in fitting them for the wall ; and I have oblbrved that in fome houfes there is little
lime, clay, or .iny fuch thing for cementing of the building, which renders their dwell-
ing fo much the colder, the piercing air pafling through between tlie chinks of the
Aones, which they have no need of under this cold nnd airifli clima' . V<\\-- feme of
thefe houfes they may defignedly fo build, that tl > wind may have frer nii.;I\;M i! -ough
them for drying of their hllies, which houfes fome call Ikeos.

There are feveral fuperditious cudoms and practices which the more ignorant people
follow, fome of which we will have occafion to note in the fcquel of this difcourfe,
but not fo many did we hear of, as there in Orkney. But I hope the vigilance and
diligence of oui* ch ^'ch in infpefting thefe ifles, and putting all to their duty, will prove
a blefled mean, in U\ ^-lad of God, for the eradicating and utter abolilhing of thcfc re^
lifts of paganifm . pc* i .. ui) y.

1 ' ■ Sailing

2BTI.AND, HOTtTLAND FIRTH, AWD CAlTHNEaS.

77i

Sailing «bout thefe coafts .^ often very dangerous, whence the waters prove graves
to many of the inhabitants. W'liilf wc were there in the month of May a ^'>»t was
caft away going by the fhon fn DunjufThifs, and a man and hia filler therein periOioi^,
and another man in her was laved by gettm ■ upon the keel of the boat ; and fon
times boats arc caft away w!ien not one fiivcd. About the iflcs arc many Mind rocks,
which the natives fometiuuv. mhappily tail ;uid break upon, either tliri)u^h a miflake,
or the tide and wind driving them upon them : lit other times the wind rifing caufeth
the fca fo to fwcll that the waves bn ikitig upon their liu H boats are rcidy to overfet
them, and fometimes do : alfo thougii the winds be not io nrong, there will come
flans and blads off the land as to their Cwiftncfs and I'urprifal ibmething like to hurri>
cine?, which beating with a great impetus or force upon their fails, overturns the boat,
ai d in a moment hurries them into eternity : by fuch a tian the I oird of Munas, a gen-
tl .^""anin this country is faid to have periihed the former year 1699, when within fight
oi tiis own houfe, and all that were in the boat with him, faid t>) be nine or ten perfons,
favc one fervant who cfcaped upon the keel. I remember that night we came to
the land of Zetland our feamen thought fit in their prudence not to fail too nigh the
land for fear of fuch flans. ** O to be as watchmen on our towers, looking out and
waiting for the Lord's coming."

For this caufe it is, that during the winter feafon they have ordinarily converlL- or
commerce with none, except that mips be driven in by ftrefs of weather ; for the open
boats dare not come, and the clofc-deckcd not without danf <r, the fea commonly at
that time being fo tempeftuous, the tides and rouils fo rap 1, that they threaten all
who come near them with being fwallowed up : therefore it is, as they tell us, that
from Oftober till April or May, they ordinarily fee no ftrangers, nor know any news,
vrhich makes the winter fo much the longer and wearifome nito them : an mflance
whereof we had, that the late Revolution, when his Highnefs th Prince of Orange our
prefent King, was pleafed to come over to aflert our liberties, and deliver us from our
fears, falling out in the winter, it was May thereafter before they heard any thing of it ;
and that firll they fay from a fiflierman, whom fome would have had arraigned befc re
them, and impeached of high treafon becaufe of his news, as fome did inibrm us.

Their country lying very open, and in many places but thinly inhabited, expofeth them
to the hollile incurfions of pirates in a time of war, as of late the l'"'<^nch did much in-
fell their coafts, fome of their men landing did by fliot kill their kine and ftieep, and
take them away with them ; yea fometinics they fpared not the churches, but facrilegi«
oufly robbed them, pulling down the timber thereof, as feats, &c. a: I taking them for
burnwood ; fo they did to a church in North Mevan. But they nevi - came uUo Braifa
Sound, left they had been locked up within land, winds turning conti^^ry.

In the month of June they have a clear light all the night over, i )r at the darked
hour thervof, you will fee clearly to read a letter; the fun fetteth between ten and
eleven at night, and rifeth between one and two in the morning, but i^r this they have
fo much the ftiorter day and longer night in the winter.

Chap. V\l.— J particular View is given of the feveral Parijhesyand mejl conjiderable IJles

in Zctlnnd.

THUS far having confidered the ftate of the country in general, we come next to take
fome particutax view of the ifles, which that I may the better and more methodically do,
I fliall lay beh^rc my reader the feveral pariflies, with fome brief defcription of the prin-
€ip«* yiflii thereunto belonging. For as to the number of the iiles, I never heard an ex*

a£t

IhI!!'

774

brand's DBSCaiPTlON OF ORKNSY,

ad acconnt ghroi thereof, there being many of them fmall, wherein ia only a family or
two, and fo but little noticed.

The iirft is the parifli of DunrolTnefs on the Mainland to the fouth, and is the pari(h
which lies next to Orkney and Scotland, wherein are three churches, in which their
r.".inifter performeth divine fervice, Crofs-Kirk, Sanwich, and Fair Ifle ; in this parifli
are feveral very good voes or harbours commodious for fliips to ride in. In this there is
alfo ri'uch corn land, there ground bearing the richefl grain, in many places not fo moffy
and covered over with heath, as other parifties are, which makes them to have lefs fuel,
though more corn. Much of the land here is limded, and the fea almoft yearly gaineth
fomething on the lower parts thereof; the land lying fo low and famly in many places,
is convenient for conies, which abound here about the nefs or fouthernmoll point ci
land. In this parifh, there is a great fifhing, this fouthcrnmoft point hath two heads,
Swinburgh Head, and Fitwalls Head, two high rocks I'een by mariners coming from the
fouth at a great diftance, which when difcovcrcd they dire£l: their courfe towards them.

To the north-weft ot the Nefs lies Sr. Ninian's ifle, very pleafant ; wherein there is a
chapel and an altar in it, whereon fomc fuperflitious people do burn candles to this day.
Some take this ifle rather to be a kind of peninfula, joined to the main by a bank of
fand, by which in an ebb people may go in the ifle, though fometimes not without dan-

The Fair Ifle belongeth to this parifti, lying eight leagues or twenty-four miles to the
fouth, or fouth and by eait of Swinburgh Head, by Buchanan it is called infula bella, the
pleafant or pretty ifle. Though 1 do judge fair may be as well taken properly as appel-
latively, for the ifle Faira or Fara, there being another ifle lying to the north of this
which they call North Faira which relates to another Faira by fouth ; now there is no
Ifle lying to the fouth of this North Faira, which hath any name that can be interpreted
Faira, but this Fair Ifle. Moreover I neither did fee, nor was I informed of any thing,
that afford us any reafon why this ifle fliould be fo appellatively taken and denomina^'
ted bella or Fair. This Fair ifle rifeth high above the waters, and is feen by mariners at
a great diftance ; it is about a mile and a half long from fouth to north, and nigh to a
mile in breadth, the fide thereof towards the weft is a continued ragged rock from one
end to another, always beat upon by the impetuous currents of a fwelling fea; above this
weft fide is the craig which they call the Shtn?p Craig, whereon there are no houfes nor
com land, but ftieep ufe to feed : the fide, lying to the eaft, is lower, declhiing towards
the fea ; there are in it two harbours, one upon the northern end, looking to Zetland,
and another towards the fouthern point, but fhips or boats do not ordinarily refort there-
unto, if not put to it, and better cannot do, for fo it hath been a fafe flielter and refuge
to many.

There ufe to be about ten or twelve families in it, but now they fay death hath almoft
depopulated the ifle, the fmall pox having lately raged there, and fwept away two thirds
of the inhabitants, fo that there is not a fufficient number fpared to manage their fifliing-
boats ; that gentleman's fon, above-mentioned, having touched here in his way to Zet-
land. They have good pafturage for fliecpand kine, and fome corn land, and are very
hoipital and kind. Their minillcr ufeth to vifit them once in the year, in the fummer
time, and ftaying with them about a month, preaching, baptizing their children and
doing other parts of his paftoral work ; after which he returning to Zetland, they are
without public ordinances till the next year's revolution.

The hawks, they fay, which are to be had in the Fair Ifle, are beft in Britain, which
ufe to fly to Zetland or Orkney for their prey, thefr being the neareft lands, and fome.
times they will find moor fowls in their nefts, which they behoved to bring Iroiu Ork-
ney,

ZETLAND, P10HTLAND*ri1lTH, AND CAITHNESS.

775

ney, feeing there are none in Zetland, and the neared ifle they could liave them in was
Stronza or Wedra, which is between forty and fifty miles of fea, over which at one
flight they mull carry thefe fowls to their nefts.

Many fhips ufe to cruife about this Fair Ifle in the fummer time, and by it the Hol-
land's fleet going to or coming from the Eaft-Indies, ufe to pafs^ though fometimes as in
the late wars they failed by the north of Zetland, that they might be more free of danger.
Ships alfo going to or coming from Norway or the eaft fea frequently pafs this way,
when wind ferveth them fo to do : and this Fair Ifle being feen by them at fourteen or
fixteen leagues di (lance, in a clear day it is as a myth or mark for directing their courfes.

The fecond is the parifli of Tingwall, lying on the eaft of the main to the north of
Dunroflhefs, wherein are four churches, Tingwallj Whitenefs, Wifedale and Lerwick,
but the minifter ufeth not to preach by turns at Lerwick, as he doth at his other three
churches, he not finding himfclf obliged fo to do, it being but built lately at the ex-
pence of the inhabitants, however fometimes he hath fermon there, and baptizeth their
children. Lerwick in this parilh is now become the principal town in the country, lying
on the eaft of the main at BraflTa Sound, over againll the ifle of Brafla.

Lerwick is more than half a mile in length, lying fouth and north upon the fide of the
found, and will confift of between two and three hundred families, it is but within thefe
few years, that it hath arrived to fuch a number of houfes and inhabitants. It is become-
fo confiderable, becaufe of the many fliips which do yearly frequent the Sound, whereby
merchants and tradefmen are encouraged to come and dwell in this place, and not for
the pleafantnefs of its fituation, or the fertility of the country about, for it is built upon a
rocky piece of ground, wherein they can have no ftreet, but a kind of a narrow paflage
before their doors, betwixt them and the Sound, which in fome places will not admit of
two men's going in a breaft, and at the back of the town there is a hill of black mofs,
wherein they call their pitcs, which in feme places cometh to their very doors, and no
com land is there about it, fave a little within the caftle, for near a mile of way.

Many of their houfes are very commodious to dwell in, moft of them being two ftories
high, and well furniflicd within, their inhabitants confift of merchants, tradefmen, and
fimers, who keep up a good trade with foreigners, from whom they buy much of their
domeftic provifion, fome of them are perfons of a confiderable ftock, which they have
many ways to improve for their advantage. They are very civil and kind, of an oblig-
ing temper, which we had the experience of, during our abode among them ; there are
but few begging poor to be fcen here, or in any place of the country, where we had oc-
cafion to be ; there being a great ftore of finall fiflies, for the fupply of their neceflity.

They have upon their own charges built a convenient church, at the back of the
middle of the town, and furniflied it with good feats high and low ; they are at prefenta
part of the parifli of Tingv^U, but very defirous to be disjoined, and ereded into a parifti
by thcmfclves, that fo they may enjoy a minifter of their own : for the promoting of which
good work, they are wiolt willing according to their ability to contribute for the fettline
of a fund ibr a (tipend to a minifter, but not being in a capacity to give all, they refdlved
to make application to the government, for to have fome allowance out of the revenues
of the bilhopric of Orkney, or othervvife as the wifdom of the government fhould fee
meet, fo that there may be a competency made up.

Upon their application to us, we judging it moft convenient, yea neceflary, that this
town, with fome of the adjacent country mould be ere£led into a parifli, cheriflied this
their pious dcfign ; telling them, that we intended to recommend it to the commiflion
of the general aflembly : that they may interpofe with the lords and other honourable

membera

4i.

yyS brand's description of orkney,

members of the refpeflive judicatories, before whom this affair (lull come, for the be^tef
cffeftuating the fame. For the town itfelf is confiderable, and the principal one In \l\Q
country much frequented by the gentry ; as alfo by ftrangers, in the fummer time,
And their minifter preaching feldom here, they are ordinarily deftitute of gofpel prdi-
nances ; the people fcarce being able, in the fummer feafon, and almofl impolTible for
them in the winter, to travel to the next church, where their minifter preacheth : it
being about four miles diftance from them, of exceeding bad way, as we knew when
we did perambulate the bounds. Which want of ordinances maketh their cafe very fad
and deplorable ; it nurfeth ignorance, occafioneth much fm, efpecially horrid profa>
nation of the Lord's Day by ftrangers as well as by inhabitants ; and doth effeftually
obftru^ the converfion of fouls ; preaching of the word being a fpecial means of con-
vincing and converting fmners, and building them up in holinefs and comfort through
faith unto falvation.

At the north end of the town is the caftle or citadel of Lerwick, begun to be built in
the time of the Dutch war anno 1C65 ; by \yorkmen feiit by authority from Scotland,
for that end, but the work was never pcrfe£tcd, the workmen returning home anno 1667,
At that time alfo three hundred foldiers were font over, for the defence of the country,
againft the hoftile incurfions of the Hollanders, and were quartered in places near to the
fort, who likewife returned home about the fame time with the workmen : the garri-
fon could do much to rommand the Sound (for then there was no town here) fo thaj
none durft land nigh unto them ; the walls are yet in a good condition, high in fome
places without, but filled up with earth within, whereon they raifed their cannon ; in
the weakell part of the wall towards the north, there hath been a fallyport, dangerous
to attack, by reafon of a deep ditch before it, fed by a fpring, into which the garrifon
by cunning artifices might endeavour to draw the enemy, who, by the ftratagemsofwar
thus being brought on and enfnarecl, did incontinently fink down into the Sound below
them at the foot of the hill, whereupon the caftle is fituated : within the walls is a houfy
of guard, which Iiath been two ftories high, burnt by the Dutch, after that our foliJiers
had leit the fort. Upon the walls towards the Sound are (landing three iron cannons,
one a fix, another a feven, and a third a ten-pounder, not left by thefe who kept garri-
fon, but fince that time within thefe thirty years taken out of the fea nigh to Whalfey,
a (hip of force there being caft away about eighty years before, which guns the inhabi*
tants of Lerwick lately mounted ujion the walls of the caftle, whereby they might be in
a capacity to defend themfelves againft the French privateers, who at any time (hould
come up the Sound and affault thcin.

Between Lerwick and the ifle of Brafta on the eaft lleth a pleafant bay or found, com-
monly called Brafla Soimd, famous for its bting fo fafe a road for (hips to anchor and
ride m, and that in the greateft ftorm, being inclofcd with land on every fide, except
the entry thereunto fiuin the fouth, which is half a mile broad, but within the found as

t '

a: Lerwick it is a mite ; it hath another narrow paffage at the north end of it, but dan-
gerous to go out or in at, b'cauie (it fome blind rocks therein. This found is the or-
dinary place to which the Holland baflies do refort in time of herring fifhing, who, be-
fore they put out their nets, (which nmft not be, according to a law they have among
themfelves-, before the C4th of June,) ufe to come here and put themfelves (hips and
HL'ts in order, and the time by them appointed being come, they all go to fea together,
fiftiiiig near to this land : foinetimcs there have been feen in the Sound two thoufand,
i>r two thoufand two hundred fail at once, and every year fome hundreds as five, fix, or
itven hundred. Yea fornetiine;; lb thick do the (hips lie in the found, that they fay men

might

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND-FIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

777

might go from one fide of ihe found to the other, ftepplng from (hip to fliip ; and du-
ring their iiHiing they will come in to the found for frerfi water, or other neceflary
provifion, and return to fea again.

To this parifli of Tingwal alfo belongcth Scalloway, lying on the weft fide of the
Mainland, four miles, which is the breadth of the country in that place from Lerwick.
It was formerly the chief town in the country, and the feat of the prefbytery, enjoying by
far a pleafanter fituation than Lerwick, about which is good grafs and corn, and fome
meadow, betwixt which and the church of Tingwal is the Strath of Tingwal, two miles
of hard, even, and ploafant way ; they fay about Scalloway is as pleafant a fpot as is in
all this country. In ail the towns there will bo fcarcc eigfity or one hundred perfons,
there not being fuch encouragement by trade to live here as at Lerwick.

At the eaft or fouth-cail end of the town (lands the caftle of Scalloway, built anno
1600, by Patrick Earl of Orkney, fon to Robert Stewart alfo Earl of Orkney, who
built the palace of Birfa formerly mentioned : above the gates, as we enter into the
houfe, there is this infcription, Patrkim Orchadia <ff Zetlandia Coniesy and below the in-
fcription this diftich, Ciijtis fundamcn faxum eft domus ilia manebit ; Labil'n l contra^ ft fit
arena petit. That houfe whofe foundation is on a rock (hall ftand ; but if the fand it
fhallfall. The reafon of the infcription is reported to be this: the Earl greatly" op-
prefled both Orkney and Zetland ; and particularly at the building of this houfe, his
hand lay very heavy on the poor people, by caufing them in great numbers to be em-
ployed about the building, which could not but divert them from their ordinary work, as
fifhing, &c. whereby they provided fuftenance for themfelves and families. After this,
one Mr. Pitcaim, minifter of North Mevan, faid to be a godly and zealous man, coming
to pay his refpefts to the Earl, the Earl defired him to compofe a verfe, which he might
put upon the frontifpiece of his houfe ; from this the minifter took occafion to lay be-
fore the Earl his great fin of oppreflion, upon which the Earl's anger was incenfed, and
in his rage he threatened him with imprifonment. However the Earl afterwards coming
to fome compofure of fpirit, Mr. Pitcaim faid unto him, Well if you will have a verfe, I
ihall give you one from exprefs words of holy fcripture,Luke vi ; which verfe the Earl
being pleafed with,caufedit to be infcribed on the lintel above the gate, with Luke vi. added
to the verfe, the minifter thereby infmuating that this houfe could not ftand long, having
fuch a fandy foundation as oppreftion. As indeed neither did it, for fliortly after the
Earl being beheaded, the houfe was not taken care of, and is now become ruinous.

And herein the wife providence of God may be obferved, that as the infcription on
the gate of the palace of Birfa in Orkney did hold forth the ambition of the father, fo
this infcription on the gate of the caftle of SCalloway in Zetland did (hew the oppreflion
of the fon ; and though it may be many years fince the death of them both, yet the
very houfes built by them, to make their honour and grandeur to appear, do yet ftand
to their diftionour and infamy, and in a manner do bear witnefs againft them : fo truly
verified in them, is that fcripture, " That though the inward thoughts cf great men
be that their houfes ftiall continue for ever, and their dwelling places to all generations ;
nevertheleis they being in honour and not underftanding, are like the bcafts that perifh.
And the righteous ihall be in everlafting remembrance : but the name of the wicked
Ihall rot."

The houfe or caftle is three ftorics high befide kitchens and wardrobe, and hath in it
many excellent chambers, and other apartments with their feveral conveniences; alio there
hath been much good painting, fome of which is yet to be feen, though much defaced ;
the chambers are high between floors, but eipecially the gallery or dining-room : in the
kitchen there is a well in the fide of a wall, the water whereof is very good though
VOL. Ill, 5 o little

■!

77-8 . DRAKD 8 DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

little ufcd : the flatcs have for the mod part fallen from the roof, and arc dally falllng^
with every florm, fo that the timber, much of which is yet very good and frofh, is be-,
p.'iniiing to rot and confume, by the rain filling tiirou^h the houie troni floor to floor.
The ftone vv dls arc yet in a ^ocd condition, they being confiderably thick ; in the build-
ing are many frce-ltones, as lintels, jams, &c. w iiich they fay were biouglit from Scot-
land. I give a more particular account of this houfo, bccaufe built in this country, and
to fliew how tranficnt, paflin|.', and perifliing, the glory and riches of ihe world are. In
this cadle of Scalloway fome Englilh ioldiers for fome lime kept garrifon, when theic
army was in Scotland.

The church of Wifdalo, which belong-th to this parifli, is much frequented by the fu«
perflitious country people, who light candles therein, drop money in and about it, go
on their bare knees round it, and to which in their llraits and licknefs they have their re-
courfe, yea fome are fo filly as to think, that if they be.in any dillrefs, though not at thiis
church, yet if they turn their faces to it, God will hear them. One of the judices told
us, that though they have laid out themfelves to get thefe fuperditious conceits eradicat-
ed, yet they cannot get it altogether effeduated, but flill they continue among the peo-
ple. A minider alfo told me, that it was much frequented by women, who, when they
defire to marry, went to this church making their vows and faying their prayers there,
fo alTuring themf Ives that God would caufe men come in fuit of them j but this is not
now fo much in ufe as formerly.

Befire Scalloway lieth a li'.tle ifle called Troudra two or three mihs long, wherciu are
a few families.

The third parifli is Nedon to the cad of the Main, to which belongs four churches,
two on the main, and other two in ifles j in Nedon is good harbouring and many gre/i
fi flies.

To the north-ead lies the ifle of Whalfey, wherein is a church, it is about three miles
long and as many broad. Here are great rats and very numerous, which do infed the
ifle, dedroying their corns and other goods.

From Whalfey to the ead lies the Skerries, feveral broken ifles, wherein is a
church, here are two good harbours, but dangerous to enter, by reaion of rocks that
He before them, but when in, (hips will ride very fafly : there are no pites in th-m,
but many fllips being cad away upon them, the inhabitants make ufe of the wreck for
burn-wood, and alfo bring fome pites from Whalfey. Mere was Crill away that great
and rich fliip, called theCarmelanof Amllerdam, «/;«o 1064, wlun the war was betweeii
us and the Hollanders, computed to the value of 3,00 ,000 of guilders, wherein weie
fome cheds of coined gold (of which more above in our ilefcription of Orkney,) and
none of the men, as they report, were faved but four, wh'> were on the top-mad, dit
covering the land; but before they could give timely advertilement to the captain, the
fliip druck on a rock, and the mad breaking by the deck, the top thereof kll on one of
the flverries, and fo thefe four men periflied not with the red of iheir company ; they
fay for twenty days after the inhabitants of the Skerries drank liberally ol tiv,; drong
liquors driven on fliore in caiks. It is f.iid this fliip io lichly laden was bound for the
Ead-Indies.

In the way from Brnfll'a Sound to Nedon, lies the blind rock called the Ihiicorn, the
top whereof is feen at a low ebb, upon which the fliip called the Unie<ini w;i,' cad awa\,
wherein was William Kircaldy of Grange, who, purluing the Karl of Hothwell, fullowcd
him foclofe, that they were within g-an fliot of one another, but Bithwe.i coming firft
through Bralfa Sound got in a pilot, which Grange neghding to do, they Doth i'.uled
through the northern piiffage of Bralfa Sound j and Boihwel's pilot liaving a great re-
ward

ZET.LAND, PIOHTLAND rlRTII, AND CAITHNESS.

779

ward promifed him, if they fliould efcape, ran down by the fide of this rock upon which
the Unicorn did fpilt, and fo Bothwel got free of the danger he was in, by this hot
purfiiit. It is mod danj^orous failing among thefe ifles wiihout a pilot.

Tlie fourth parifli is Delton on the Main, wherein are two churches, it lieth north-ead
and fouth-ead ; here are many grey filhes taken, vvliereas in the northern ifles of Ui\ll:
and Yell they lay out thcmfclves more for the taking of white fifli, as killing, ling, &c.

On the eafl: lies Fifholni, to the north-eaft Little Rue, and on the weft Meikle Rue,
eight miles long, and two nnles broad, wherein a good harbour. All thefe ifles have
their own advantages.

The fifth is Sanding and Eding lying on the Main between Delton and Waes wherein
are two kirks, one in Sanding and another in Eding, The way in this paridi is very
bad, and the people are faid to be among the poored and naughtied in all the country ;
here is good padure for diocp, and the bed wool ; as alfo the bed flielties.

Nigh to Sanding and Eding lie feveral fmall pleafant ifles, Vemantrie, a pleafant ifle
full of harbours, Oxney, Papa Little, Ilildeflia, &c.

The fixth is Waes on the main to the weft, to it belongs four churches, one in Waes,
another in Sandnefs, the third in the ifle of Papa-dour, and the fourth in the ifle of
Fowla. To the fouth of Waes lieth the ifle of Vaila, wherein a cat will not live, of
which more afterwards.

The ifle of Papa-dour is faid to be the pleafiinteft little ifle in all this'country, two miles
long, and well furniflied with fuel, grafs, corn, rabbits, &c. In it are four good har-
bours, one to the fouth, two to the north, and one to the wed, nigh to this ifle lies the
Lyra Skerries, fo called, becaufe the lyres (thefe fat fowls, fpoken of in our defcription
of Orkney,) do frequent this Skcrrie.

Foulti lies about eighteen miles wed from the Main, it is about three miles long,
wherein a high rock feen at a great didance I have heard fay, that in a calm and
clear day, they will fee it from Orkney : there is only one place in it for harbouring,
which if you do not hit, you will be driven to the fea, what by wind and tide. Their
corn land is all in one end of it ; and the inhabitants live mod by fowls and eggs, which
are very numerous, and they are the bed climbers of rocks in all the country.

The feventb is North-Mevan on the Main lying to the north, wherein are three kirks,
lliH'wick, Olobcrry and North-Rhae, they report, the people of this parifli to be dif-
creot and civilized, beyond their neighbouring parilhes; which, under God, is owing
to the labours of Mr. Hercules Sinclair, fometime minider there, reputed to be zealous
and faithful : he, in his zeal againd I'uperflition, razed Crofs-Kirk, in this parifli ; be-
caufe the people fupcrditioufly frequented it : and when denioliflied, behind the place
where the altar flood, and aUb beneath the pulpit, were found feveral pieces of filverin
various fliapcs, brought thither as olFerings by aiflifted people, fome being in the form
of a head, others of ;iii arm, others of a foot, accordingly as the officers were didrefled
in thefe parts of the body ; as a friend of his, a prefent minider in the country, did in-
form me. O that the pains and expence thefe fuperditious fouls have been at, might excite
us the more dutifully to fcrve and worihip our God in fpiiit and in truth ! There are
alio many more people in this parifli, who can write and read, and give a tolerable ac-
count of their proficiency in the knowledge of the principles of religion, than there are
in others.

IJofore U lies Lamma a fmall pleafant ifle ; as alfo another to the weft-north-weft.

'I'he eighth is Brafla, an ifle to the eaft of Tingwal and Lerwick to which three
churches do belong, two in Braffa, but only in one of them, they ufe to attend ordi-
nances ; the other being built nigh to the manfe, for their late old minifter's accomnioda-

502- tion.

780

brand's description of ORKNEY,

tion. BrafHi is nbout five miles long and two broad, all covered with heather, except
fome com land by the coads. Before Braflfa to the ead lies the Nofs of BralTa, a fniall
ifle wherein is one family } it hath a high rock lying open to the eafl fca, and feen by
mariners at a didance.

The minifter of Brafla alfo hath a church in the ifle of Burra, which he goeth to every
fecond Sabbath, it lying nigh to the Mainland, we(l-fouth-we(l from Scalloway, fo that
the minifter is obliged to travel from the eall to the weft fide of the Mainland when he
goeth to this his church. The ifle will be three miles long, divided in the middle into
two fmall ifles by a fea-break. The church is very large, and hath a high (teeple in it.
To the fouth fuuth-eaft of Burra lies Haveroy, a mile and a half long. Both in Burra
and Haveroy is good pafture, and about then\ good fifliing.

The ninth is Yell, an ifle north-eaft and by the eaft from the Main, fixteen miles long,
and as to breadth it is much like the figure 8, becaufe of the many creeks and voes
which divide and cut the land, yet in fome places it ifi fix or eight miles broad : in it
are three churches and many old little chapels ; it is more mclTy than fome other ifles,
though there be in it fome good pafturage and corn land. To the eaft of Yell lies
Hafkafliie, two miles long ; to the fouth-weft Samphrey, one mile long ; to the weft-
fouth-weft Biggai, a mile and a lialf long, ail ploafant, and well grafled, having much
fuel, and efpecially excellent for fifliing ; for if the wind blow from the weft, the boats
can lie on the eaft ; if from the eaft, they can lie on the weft fide of thefe ifles, and that
nigh to the fhore.

To the eaft-north-eaft of Yell lies Fetlor, five miles long and four broad ; in it fome
chapels and Pidls houfes, as there are likewife in fcvcral other of the ifles. In this ifle
there is a church wherein the minifter of Yell preacheth every fourth Sabbath ; it ufed
formerly to have been ferved by a preaching deacon, but the vicar by his diligence hath
got the minifter of Yell alfo obliged to ferve in Fetlor, though Yell be more than fuffi-
cient for any one man to have the charge of.

The tenth parifh is Unft, eight miles long, and four miles broad in many places ; in
it three churches ; it is faid to be the largeft plcafant ifle in all this country : in it alfo
three harbours, Uzia Sound, Bulta Sound, and Burra Firth ; here fome good corn land
and pafturage ; alfo feveral old chapels (of which more afterwards). A little ifle called
Uzia lieth off Unft, a mile and a half K)np, as likewife feveral pleafant holms. Unft
is the uioft northern ifle in the King of Britain's dominions, under the fixty-firft de-
gree of latitude.

Thus I have given fome account of the feveral pariflies witiiin the bounds of the ifles
and country of Zetland, and hinted at, if not all, yet the grcateft part of the ifles, the
principal whereof are Unil, Yell, Fetlor, BraflTa, and Burra.

"Whence we fee there is no minifter here, but hath at leaft two churches, wherein he
difpenfeth gofpel ordinances, and fome of them hath three, and others four. Some of
which churches are at a great diftance from one another, to travel to which is not only
toilfomc and dangerous to the refpeflive minifters, they alfo not havin^^ little manfes or
houfes for their accommodation when they come to tliem ; though often when ftorms
do arife they will be detained in the ifles for fome time until they leflen : not only I
fay is this troublefome to the minifters, but highly prejudicial to the people, among
whom the work of the gofpel is greatly retarded (as we had occafion likewife to note
concerning Orkney), few of the people ufing to repair to other churches when there is
not public worfhip at their own, which at moft will be but one of two Sabbaths, and in
many places but one in three or four, and in fome not to be had for fome months,
which as undoubtedly occafioneth great ignorance, fo many grofs fcandals, as adulteries,

fornications,

ZETLAND, PIOHTLANb>FIRTH, AMD CAITHKBSS.

781

fornications, &c. ; the faithful preaching of the gofpel doing much, if not to convince
and convert, yet to moraliie a people, and put a reftraint to thefe horrid enormities.

And though the difficulty would not be fmall, if at all it could be got done, to have
miniders conllantly to preach in the feveral churches, even in the moft confiderable
ifles, yet there might be fome more minillers here than there are ; four or five at leaft,
to whom the tithes, if rightly employed, could afford a fufficient maintenance ; as one
minider more in the parifli of Dunroflhefs on the main, and another in the ifle of Yell,
&c., which charges at prefent are very great, and cannot well be ferved hy the minifters
they have. The tithes are farmed to vicars, a kind of inferior tackfmen, who in fome
places do not only opprefs the people, but are uneafy to the minifters, not paying them
what they are obliged to pay till they pleafe, which otten they will not do for fome years.
The minifters, fuffering by this piece of injuftice, laid it before the commiffion, as one
of their grievances, which they craved might be redreffed, and for that end applicatiou
might be made to the government.

Chap. VIII.— ^» Account of the ancient Monuments, CurioJitics,Ji range Providencesy 5SV.

moji obfervable in the IJles of Zetland.

THE works of creation and providence are all very wonderful, fought out of them
who have pleafure therein, amongft which fome more ordinarily occur and are the fub-
jeft of our meditation, and others not fo commonly prefenting themfelves are the more
furprillng and amufmg : both which are to be had a due regard unto, they being either
mediately or immediately, by or without fecond caufes, the work of the Lord, and the
optration of his hands ; and feeing there are fome things that deferve their own obfer-
vation, which either I had occafion to fee or to hear of in Zetland, I fhall give a brief
relation thereof, not denying but that there may be other things no lefs, if not more,
obfervable there which \vc came not to the knowledge of.

The PiQs houles, which are frequent through this country, the inhabitants take much
notice of, as being the ancienteft monuments they have, fome of which are more, others
lefs ruinous ; ihey are round, in the form of fome dove-cotes, or fometfting like unto
an egg bulging out in the middle, but narrower at the bottom, and yet more narrower
at the top : they have a little door for an entry, at which a man of an ordinary ftature
could not cuter without bowing, within which door there is a ftair going up between
two ftone walls, leading to the feveral apartments : inftead of windows they have flits,
oi- long narrow holes in the wall, fuch as are in many of our old caftles for the con-
veyance of light unto them : they are ilrongly built, but the conveniency for dwelling
hath been but little ; for their diameter is but about ten or twelve feet, and their height
fcarce twenty or twenty-four. I think thefe Pi£ts houfes are much like Arthur's oven
upon the water of Carron, in Stirling-fliirc.

Thei'e have been the domiciles or dwellings of the Pifls, the old if not the firft inha-
bitants of this country, who were very numerous in the north of ScoMand; and in
Orkney having their own kings, as hath been faid in our defcription of Orkney. They
are conveniently fituatcd through the ifles, each one being within the fight of another j
hence in a few hours adverlifements could be given by fire, or other figns they might
ci>ndercend upon, through the whole country, fignifying unto them any danger, that
being thereby alarmed they might meet together, or be upon their own defence. Thefe
houfes are alio called burghs, which in the old Teutonick or Saxon language fignifieth
a town having a wall or fome kind uf an enclofure about it ; as alfo a caftle, for as one
obl'ervetb in his Dittionury, or c.Hplanatiun of our moft ancient Engliih words : *' All

places

rf
''■1

73.

URANli S DESCRIPTION OF ORKKEY,

places that in dU time had among our anceflors the name of borough, bury, or bunig,
were places one way or other tenccd and fortified.. Whence it appears that thefe houfes
have been callies, or places of defence, to the Pids, feeing it is generally ackiiow*
ledged that both the Pifts and the S.ixons were originally defc'ended of the fame Ger-
man nation, and fo might call their caftles by the fame name. 1 have alf'o heard it ob-
ferved, that in Orkney feveral places, wherein of old they ul'ed to bury their dead, were
called burghs ; fo likewife thefe houfes in Zetland might ferve for the fame purpofe,
from the Saxon word byring, or buriging, or borogeing, which we now call burying.

I enquired if there was any place or hill here which they call Thulc or IJlo, if fo be
we could receive any information or lij^ht from them concerning the Thulc of ihean<
cients ; but they anfwered they kticw none of that name, only there was an ille whereia
X high hi'l called Foula, on the weft fide of the Mainland ; but to fuppofe that ever the
ancient Romans underflood Thule thereby, befide other things that might be iilledged, it
would be a manitcR flretching of, ;ind an oturing violence to the word : but although
what tiiis place is hath been much controverted by ancient and modern authors, attempt-
ing the difcovory thereof, yet it is generally agreed upon that it is toward the north,
and many take it to be one of the Hritifh ifles; and a late author, in an I'lfay concern-
ing the Thule of the Ancients, endeavoureth to prove it to be rhe north-call part of
Britiiin, lying over-againll the illcs of Orkney, citing fome authors to this purpofe, as
Conradus Celtes : Orcadilms qua rim'fa fuis Tyle ct gLic'uilis iiifula ct C/uuii/an, nwdue-
runt fangmnc fujo Or cades incahi'.t Pic'/ or urn /anguine 'Ihule ; Scoter urn cumulos ffcvif gla-
cialis feme. And others who call 'Ihulo liritunnicarum infularum fchtcntrionahlfimaniy
the moll northern of the Brjtilh ifles. Iceland alio lays claim to it ; and the above
cited author fiippnfeth Iceland to be the Ihule, but I judire without any (lia(.to\V of
truth ; for befide v.hat is now faid, 1 greatly dou'.n if ever the Romans had the know-
ledge of Iceland, their eagles never having cotne and been dilpiayed to the north of
Scotland or Orkney: Imperii fiicrat Ronta/ii Scotia limes, faith the great Scali 'er.
I'tolomy will have it to be among the illes of Zetland : and Hocth, our hiilorian,diilin-
guifheth between a firll and a fccond ihule, calling lia the firll, and Louifa the fecond,
which are reckoned among the illes called IhAiridcs. Si) faith Boeth. " Ptolomaus
inter Scbelhhvidiccts inj'ulas qua ultra Orchades fuiii, aut proximo Norve^iam fttam vult,
h.vid quirquam propter immenfam i/itenapedinem i/ifel/igi poteji. Ncs autcm flam primam
I.cuifam Hebridum prajiant'i/fimam fcfundinii'rbulen I'ocamus. But I incline to think,
that although fome might dilii^n a particular place by the Thule, yet generally by a
fynecdoche, ufual with the Roman authors, they might denote all thefe places remote
from them to the north, and efpecially Britain, and the northern parts thereof, whither
their arms did come.

In the parifli of North-Mevan is Mons Ronaldi, or Rons Hill, the highcfl in all thia
country, from which fome do lay they will fee the body of the fun all the night over in
the month of June ; which cainiot be for the roalon alledged in our defcription of Ork-
ney, why it coul.l not be feiii from the top of the hill of Hoy ; though realon and ex-
perience fliew they have a clearer lii',ht in Zetland in the night-time, during the fummer
ieafon, than they can have in Orkney, Zetland being more than a degree to the north
of Orkn-v, and confoquently ay the farther north the fhorter nigiJt, till at length there
be no night at all ; fo that if h were pofiihie to fail holding a northern courf'e till we
were under the pole, having.it for our zenith or vertical point, we would have a con-
tinual day without any night for feveral months, the fun all that time defcribing a circle
almofl parallel to our horizon; I f.iy alinofl parallel, bccaufe befide the diurnal, there
is alfo the annual niution of the fun iu the ecliptic. O liow exad and beautiful an

*0 order

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND-HRTH, AND CAITHNESS. J^ft^

finler and fymmetry is to be fern in the works of God j they all fpeaking forth the
goodnefs, wifdom, and power of their Maker.

What a womlerfiil creature is the fun, " cnming forth as a idcgroonj out of his
chanilier, and rijoicina; us a ftronj^; man to run his race," abfolving every day his cir«
cuit round our terreftrial globe from ca(t to weft, and travelling every year between
his tropics the limits and boundaries prefcrihed him of God, bi»yond which he is not
to pal's), fron>f(nith to north and from north to i'outh, givimj fliorter days to tliofo who
inhabit the middle of the earth under the torrid zone, they not being able to bear his
longer continuance above their horizon, becaufe of his fcorching heat, but longer to
thefe who can better endure it under the temperate, and ytt longed to thefe who live
neareft to the frigid zones, or to the poles, whom his heat cannot prejudice, as it doth
thefe who live under or near to the line or middle ( f the earth, on whom he darteth
down his per,x*ndicular rays ; wherefore the wifdom of his Maker will have him (lay a
Ihorter time above their horizon. How wonderful then in counfel and excellent in
working is this God, whereupon not only his faints do Llefs him for the benefits where-
with they are loadcn,but all his works do praife him after their manner !

'1 here arc feveral caves here or hollow places in and through the rocks ; particularly
there is one in the ifle of Unft, entering from the fea at one fide of the ifle, and oppofite
thereunto; on the other fide there is another going in, as it Were meeting liie former,
unto the end of any of which none will undertake to go, though it hath been attempted ;
the rage of the fea in thefe caven;? of the earth, the failing of the light of duy„a«d the
raggednefs of the rocks by which they muft p;ils, making it terrible unto them, as alfo
the thickiiefs of the air, fomethinj; iinnoying them ; but the entries thereunto being
eppofitc one to another, giveth gr-ound to judge that it is a continued cave from the
one fide of the ifle to the c^hi-r, though four miles broad ; which cannot be thought to
be artificial, but natural, wadied through by the violence of the waves ; and the lefs
wonder it is for it fo to be, if we confider that ii gultu cavat lapiJcin, much more rap'uU
et timidi fludus cavabunt, that if in a Ihort time the drop will wear the Itone, much
more in the tra£t of fome thoufands of year<;, the raging and tempeftuous waves daily
breaking on the rocks will produce this eifeft, and that more in fome places than in
others, where the rock will be more friable and brittle, and the force of the waves lef»
broken by the bounding and fwaddling fund.

There is fomcthing li; e unto this yet move furprifing in the ifle of Fou!a, on the wcfl
fide of the Mainland, if it be true what is ftoried of it. In this ille, on the top of a hill,
there is a hole, the nunith whereof may be (and fomo lay now is) covered with a flate-
lione going downwards to the bottom of the rock, which is faid to be of a great depth ;
particularly a Dutch (hip-mafter is reported to have made a trial thereof, for the grati-
fying his curiofitv, by taking up a barrel of lines with him, which he let all down, and
yet could not found the bottom : fome fay he let down two barrels, which is very won-
derful, confidering a l)arrel of lines is reckoned to bo feveral, fome fay nine, miles in
length. What can be the reafon of fuch a conveyance from the top of the rock to the
b ttom ? and further, if we may give credit to what is faid, 1 cannot pollibly imagine
for that fuch a thing Ihould be done by art, we cannot well conceive the reafon why,
nor the manner how it could be done, and that nature (liould have fuch an operation
will be as ditficult to unfold.

'1 hat this country is geiierally mofly, Ibfr, and fpungy, hath been formerly told, as
likewife that it is dangerous for people to travel through it, of which many inltances
may be given ; I (hall only name two, which I had from the miniders of the rel.pec1ive
buuude : one travelling in the ifle of Yell fell into fuch a molfy aud loofc piece of

ground,

784

brand's dcscriptiom op orkkey,

ground, his horfc beneath him, furniture and all fank down, and was no more feen,
and he himfdf with great difficulty (Iruggled out and was Awed. And another in the
parifh of I ingwal on the Main, not long finccj walking on foot not far from his own
noule, fell into fuch another place, wherein there did not appi-ar to be any hazard and
over which feveral times formerly he thought he had paiTod with fafety, and fank di>wn
to the arm pits, but he by ftretching out his arms, keeping his head over the furface of
the ground, by the help of his fervant then providentially with him, and a liafF
fixed in the ground, got wredled out ; fo dangerous is it travelling here even to the
inhabitants.

On the weft fide of the ifle of Fetlor, there is a place whereon a gentleman's houfc
called Uafta, into which place or houfc if a mariner's needle and compafs be brought
the needle refleth not in its poles, as it doth in other places, but hath a tremulous un<
dulating motion, and fometimes turneth round, as fome fay, to all tlie points of the
horizon ; and a gentleman who was inquifitive to know the truth of this told nic, that
upon trial he found it to be fo, and further to try the experiment he took the compafs
to the top of the houfe, where it had the fame effect. And one of the minifters of the
northern ides informed me, that if any Ihip or boat failed by, or came nigh un^o that
place, the fame did befal their compafs. Alfo there is a little hill nigh to the lea on the
weft fide of the ifle of Whalfey, to which if the compafs be brought the flower cc luce,
or that point which is ordinarily obverted to the north, turneth about to the ibuth,
but if the compafs be removed the diftance of two or three feet from the top of the
hilt, there is no fuch effect produced : this the late minifter of the place aflured me
o', having tried the experiment.

The many wonderful properties and eiFeds of the magnet or load-ftone, and of other
things endued with, or which do partake of this magnetic virtue difcovered in thcfc
latter ages, hath defervedly raifed the admiration of philofophers, and awakened them
to make a diligent inquiry and fearch into the reafons of thefe ftrange phenomena.
That the magnet hath two poles anfwering to the poles of the w 1 Id, to which it turn-
eth itfelf ; that the loadftone draweth iron unto it ; that iron brought >jnto and rubbed
upon the loadAone receiveth from it that attractive, or as fome will have it, that impulfive
virtue and power, and other qualities inherent in it (hence the invention of the needle,
fo ufeful and neceflary to mariners for directing of their courfes;) that if there be two
fpherical loadftones, they \ull turn to one another, as each of them doth to the poles of
the earth, and if they be detained in a contrary pofition, they will flee from one an*
other : and fo it is with the needle in the compafs, when a loadftone or piece of iron is
brought unto it, the needle either C(5meth to, or fleeth from it according to its fitu-
ation, wherefore mariners arc careful that no iron be in nor lying near unto their light-
room where the compafs ftandeth. That though you fhould take the needle from its
beloved pole, yet when let alone and left to itfelf, it \^itl incontinently move and take
no reft until it return thereunto ; thefe ilrangc and uncouth properties hath the load-
ftone, as likewife many others no lefs aflonifhing, reckoned up by its admirers, many
of which are known to the rudeft and moft illiterate mariner ; but to explain the na-
ture of the loadftone, and to refolve and anfwer the propofals of nature upon the head,
by giving the reafons of thefe admirable efFefts, hoc opus^ hie labor ejl, this is the diffi-
culty, which hath vexed many, and taken up the ftudies of the fagcll and moft in-
genious modern philofophers.

I ftiall not prefume to give the reafon of this ftrange phenomenon, the needle's leav-
ing its reft at the pole and betaking itfelf to fuch a motion, whether tremulous and
undulating, or circular round the points of the compafs, or the flower de luce, turning

14 to

7.BTLAND, PIOHTLAHD-FIRTH, AND o> »MbM.

?^3

to the fouth. Only I would Aiffgeft two things, which if they tend not to clear *^
propofed, they will further hold out how wonderful the Joadflone and its prop
arc. Firft, upon the ordinary fuppofition, whereby thcfe properties are expiaitifd,
the earth is as a great loadflone, on the furfacc and exterior parts whereof a great nuuiUff
of volatile fcrew-like particles, called the magnetid matter, do inceflfantly move, trtvet-
ling from pole to pole alongft the furface of the earth, whereby the poles of the load-
flone and the point of the needle alFeded with its virtue, are obverted to the poles of
the world ; which fuppofition being made, we would know that this magnetic matter
may not always have the fame motion, but in fome places it may be upward and per«
pendicular to the furface of the earth ; fo that in thefe places where they thus move
perpendicularly, the needle will not be determined to one point, more than to another
of the horizon, this matter alike affeding all the parts of the needle by its pcrpendicU'
lar motion ; which the ingenious Rohault alledgcth as the reafon why the compafs
ferveth not the ufe of the Hollanders, when they have failed far to the north in order
to find out a new and (hortcr paiTagc to the Fall Indies, their needle then not turning
to the poles as it doth in other places, but alike to all the points of the horizon, the
motion of the magnetic matter in thcfe more northern places, being in lines perpendi-
cular to the furface of the earth : and fo likewife it may fall out in other places, where
a greater quantity of this magnetic matter rifeth from the earth.

A fecond thing that I would take notice of is that this magnetic matter in its paflagc
from pole to pole meets with feveral iron mines, into which it goeth afide, fo diverting
its flraight courfe between the poles, becaufe it finds an eafier paffage through the pores
of the iron than by pafTmg through other places ; hence the variation of the com-
pafs is judged to be, fo much talked of by mariners, in fome places greater, and in others
iefs, accordingly as the magnetic matter is more or Icfs determined by the feveral iroix
mines into which it tumeth afide ; now in fome places it may fo fall out, that there
may be a greater quantity of iron through which the magnetic matter pafTmg, and
from which it arifinp, may caufe fuch a motion whereby the needle not only inclines
not to one point more than to another in the horizon, but alfo by the magnetic mat*
ters afcending from and returning to the iron mines, it may produce fuch an irregular
motion in the needle ; and that there is a great quantity of iron in Zetland may be
known by the remarkable variation of the compafs there, for, as mariners inform us,
when they fail by the fouth end of Zetland they find the variation to be but one point,
but when pafTmg the north end they find it varies two points, and upon this variation
in dire£ting their courfe to this or the other place, they make their reckoning : which
is very obfervable, that in Iefs than a degree of latitude (for no more will the length of
the ifles of Zetland be) it varies a point of the compafs, which mu(t be according to the
reafon commonly afligned, becaufe there is much iron in thefe ifles, and more cfpecially
on the well fide of the ifle of Fetlor ; for other places of the fame ifle have no fuch
influence on the compafs.

That yet much if not the greateft part of the difficulty remains I readily grant, and
leaves it to the lludy of the learned and curious, and indeed in many things to acknow-
ledge our ignorance hath been reputed no fmall part of wifdom, fo hard it is to folve
■and unriddle nature's ffcrets, wherein the grcatefl lights have been benighted, the ibl-
lowing often raifing the foundations of the doftrinos of the former : how wonderful
are the works of God, that in wifdom he hath made them all ; and how narrow and
(hallow are our capacities, that we cannot find out the works of God, even the molt
fenfible and obvious ; how thankful alfo fhould we be to God, who hath vouchfafcd to

VOL. III. S" "s

Jti

'•'I

, I.

786

ORANU'a DE5CRIPT1UN OF OKKNaY,

US the light of clearly revealed trutha, which if taken heed unto (hall make us pcrfo<^,
■and lead unto glory.

There are in thefe ides many little chapels, now generally ruinous : as in the illo of
Untl there re twenty-four and upwards ; in the ifle of Yell there are twonty-one, and
many in other iflcs •, I faw one of them in the parirti of TinRwall, wherein aUo there are
fcvcral more ; it would have contained fcarce thirty people, as I judge, and though fo
little, yet very great llone« wore in the walls, which was Urango to nie, how that in this
country, where their beads are weak, and they have not the help of machines, they got
them lifted and laid. Thcfe are faid to have been built by fupcrllitious zealots in the
times of popery, or, as fome rather think, by (hip<wrccked Teamen, who coming fafe to
flioir, have built them according to their vows made by them when in danger, which
they dedicated to fo many feveral faints, whom they looked u|x>n as the patrons of their
refpe£tive chapels. About which alfo men and women of old had their night walking.s,
which occafioncd much uncleanncfs, hut now fuch walkings art- but little ufed.

About the walls of thefe old chapels are found fnails called (hcll-fnails, which they
dry and pulverize, mingling the dull with tiieir drink for the jaundice, by which means
thcle who labour under this ficknefs in three or four days' time will recover of the
fame ; but if they let this duft he for a year without making ufc of it, it turneth into
fmall living creatures or vcrmine, which they dry and bray over again, if they make
any further ufe of it.

In Uzia an illc lying nigh to Unfl, there is a metal gotten having the colour of gold,
which feveral of the Dutch merchants have taken with them to Hamburgh, and tried it
there, but by the force of fire it did not become liquid, but crumbled into fmall pieces ;
it is to be had there in great plenty. This Ihcweth there may be minerals in thefe illes,
though not known nor fearched for.

In the churchyard ol'P.ipaStour, in the parifh of Waes, lieth a ftone five feet long,
at the one end two, and at the other one foot broad, concave from the one end to the
other, of which the common tradition goes, that this Hone came alhore on that ifle
with a dead man tied to it, who lies buried there befide it. It appears to have been
the grave-ftone of fome perfon of note in the country, which fhewcth they have alfo
liad that cuftom of laying at leafl fome of their dead in fuch large Hones made concave,
and cut out for the purpofe, which hath been frequent in many places with us in
Scotland.

At a little didance from Papa-Stour, lies a rock encompaflcd with the fea, calletl
Frau-a-Stack, which is a Danifli word, and ngnitieth our Lady's Rock, upon which are
to be feen the ruins of a houfe, wherein they lay a gentleman did put his daughter, that
fo fhe might be (hut up and fecluded from the company of men, but though a maiden
when put in, yet flie was found with child when brought out, nolwitliflanding of her
being fo cloicly lent, but whether this came to pafs by a golden Ihowcr (the moft
powerful courtfliip) or not, the euuntry hath loll the tradition : however it fecmeth
llrange, how a houle ihould be built on fuch a bare and fmall rock, when fo many large
and pleafant ifles were near unto it.

The three iron cannons formerly mentioned now lying in the cit.idel of I.crwick,
being rufled by the fea, wherein they had lain for eighty years ; the inhabitants of Ler-
wick to take off the ruit, and {o fit them for their ufe, about nine years ago did fet a
heap of peats about ihem, whicli they putting fire unto, the guns fo foon as tluy were
warmed and hot, did all difcharge themfelves to the great furprife of the fpedators,
and the balls, as fome obferve i, went half over Brafl'adbund. Which defcrvcth fome

remark.

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND.FniTH, AND CAITHNESS. 78^

remafk, that the powder all that time (hould retain its elaftic furcc, the water/ if at M,
yet not fo iufmuating itfclt' with the powder as to wa(h it away, or much diminiih it«
virtue. '1 htfc who wore eye-witncilcs gave luc this relation. •,

It is ohftTvable that the former year 1699, the (iflies had little or no liver, but fome-
thing black iu lieu thereof, which was a great lofs to the filhors, they making their oil of
thole livers ; as alfo the oxen, Iheep, fwine, &c. had little orno fat on their livers, which
uteth not ' • be, there being a kind of confuiiiption upon the livers of creatures bo> h by
fca and land*, which niindeth me of Rom. viii. 22. " Man's fins making the creation
to groan, and ourneilly long as with an uplifted head, for a deliverance:" fo that if
the creatures could fpcak with Daalam's al'a, they would reprove the madnefs and fin
of man.

There is a little iflaiul on the weft fide of Waes, called Vaila, wherein there is no
cat, neither will any flay though brought in, as hath been done for trial, but will
quickly be gone, they either dying, or betaking themfclves to fea, ihey endeavour to
fwim to the next iflc : yet about filty years ago there was one feen upon this ifle, about
that time when a gentleman the proprietor thereof was tormented and put to death by
the witches, but never any were leen ilnce, fuve what were brought in tor trial, as now
faid. 'J'he reafon cf this 1 could not learn from the miniilcrs, who gave the informa-
tion; it is like becaufeof the air, or tlie inull of fotnetlihig upon the ifle, though not
perceivable by the inhabitants, which agrceth not with the temper and coniUtution of
thefe animals.

About a mile from Tingwall to the north, there is a hill called the Knop of Kebiftor,,
or Luggie's Know, nigh to which hill there is a houfc called Kebiller, where a varlet
or wizard lived, commonly defigned Luggie, concerning whom it was reported that'
when the fea was fo tempetluous that the boats durft not go off to the fiftiing, he ufed
to go to that hill or know, where in a hole into which he let down his lines and took'
up any fifh he pleafed, as a cod or ling, &c. which no other could do but himfelf : alio
when fiftiing at fea, he would at his pleafure take up any roalted fifli with his line, with'
the entrails or guts out of it, and fo ready for his ufe : this was certainly done by the
agency of evil Ipirits, with whom he was m compaft and covenant, but the oeconomy of
the kingdom of ilarknefs is very wonderful and little known to us. He being convidled'
of witchcraft, was burnt nigh to Scalloway. *

As for witches I did hoar much of them, as if they abounded more in this than other
countries, though I make no queftion, but that there are many fuch here thus deluded
by the devil : there is not then fuch ground for what is fo commonly talked by many
with us anent their devilry, which might have afiVightcd us if given heed unto, as if it
wcri< d;uij;('rous going or living there ; though it is fiiid here there are many of this-
hellilh llanip in Ifland, Lapland, and other places to the north of Zetland, which may
occafion the millake.

We laid before that there were but few rats, and that only in fome of the ifles, and
thought to come out of (hips, but that they had mice in abundance ; yet in the ifles of
IJurra and Halkafliy no mice are to be found ; yea if they take fome dufl or earth out
of thefe ifles to other places where they arc, they will forfake fuch places where the dud
is laid. It may be for the like reafon, why no cats can or will live in Vaila.

Sometimes when the fliips are lying nigh land, the rats wilLcome afhore, which when
anynf the Hollanders or otiicrs fee, they look upon it as fatal to the (hip out of which they
come, portending that her end fome way or other will fliortly approach ; and likewife
it is obferved, that thefe rats will not live above three or four years in that land to whidi
they come. Some of our framen tell us the like as to their (hips ; it is talked alfo»

5 u 2 that

yZ9

brand's description of ORKNEY,

that thefe creatures will l.-ave houfes before any difmal accident befal them. What
Ijround there is either tor the one or the other I know not, but, if true, it will be hard
I fuppofe to give the reafon thereof.

Not above forty or fifty years ago almoft every family had a Browny, or evil fpirit fo
called, which fcrved them, to whom they gave a facrifice for his fervtce; as when they
churned their milk, they took a part thereof and fprinklcd every corner of the houfe
with it for Browny's ufe ; likewife when they brewed, they had a ftone which they
called Browny's Stone, wherein there was a little hole, into which they pound fome *
wort for a facrifice to Browny. My informer, a minifter in the country, told me, that he
had converfcd with an old man who, when younp, ufed to brew, and fometimes read
upon his Bible, to whom an old woman in the houfe faid, that Bro*ny was difpleafed with-
that book he read upon, which if he continued to do, they would get no more fervice
of Browny ; but he being better inftrufted from that hook, which was Browny's eye-
fore and the object of his wrath, when he brewed he would not fuff -r any facrifice to be
given to Browny, whereupon the firft and ficond brewings were fpilt and for no ufe,
though the wort wrought well, yet in a little time it left off working and grew cold ;•
but of the third browll or brewing he had ale very good, though he would not give
any facrifice to Browny, with whom afterwards they were no more troubled. I had'
alfo from the fame informer, that a lady in Unit now deceafed told him, that when (he
firft took up houfe, fhc refufed to give a facrifice to Browny, upon which the firft and'
fecond brewings mifgave likewife, but the third was good ; and Browny, not being re-
garded nor rewarded as formerly he had been, abandoned his wonted fervice. Which
deareth that Scripture, " Refift the devil, and he will flee from from you." They
alfo had ftacks of corn which they called Browny's Stacks; which though they were-
not bound with ft raw ropes, or any way fenced as other ftacks ufed to be, yet thegreat«
e(t ftorm of wind was not able to blow any ftraw off them.

Now I do not hear of any fuch appeara ces the dtvil makes in thefe ifles, fo great'
and fo many are the bleffings which attend a Gofpel difpenfation : the Brownies, fairies,
and other evil fpirits that haunted and were familiar in our houfes were difmiffed, and
fled at the breaking up of our Reformation, (if we may except but a few places not yet-
well reformed from popifli dregs,) as the heathen oracles were filenced at the coming of
our Lord, and the going forth of his apoftles ; fo that our firft noble reformers might'
have returned and faid to their Mafter as the feventy once did ; " Lord, even the de-
vils are fubjeft to us through thy name." And though this reftraint put upon the-
devil was far later in thefe northern places than with us, to whom the light of a
preached Gofpel did more early (hine, yet now alfo do thefe northern ifles enjoy the
fruits of this reftraiiu.

About two years and a half or three years ago, there p/as a boat paffing with feveral
gentlemen of the country in it, and by the way in the Voe of Quarf, through which
they went, there appeared fomething unto them with its head above the water, which as
they could difcern, had the face of an old man, with a long beard hanging down ; firft it
appeared at fome diftance from them, and then coming nearer to their boat, they had
a clear fight^of it ; the fight was fo very ftrange and affrighting, that all in the boat
were very defirous to be on land, though the day was fair and the fea calm ; a gentle-
man declaring, (as a minifter in company with them, and faw this fight informed inc,)
that he never faw the iike, though he had travelled through many feas.

1 heard another remarkable fbry like unto this, that about five years fince a boat at
the fifliing drew her lines, and one of them, as the fiflu-rs thought, having fome great
fifh upon it, was with greater diiliculty than the reft railed from the ground, but whetk

raifcd.

eBTIsANO) PIOHTLAND>imTH, AMD CAItHNESS. 789^

raifed, if came more eafily to the furface of the water, upon which a creature h'ke a
woman prefented itrelf at the fide of the boat ; it had this face, arms, breads, fhoiilder?,
kc. of a woman, and long hair hanging down the back, but the nether part from below
the breads was beneath the water, fo that they could not underftand the (hape thereof;
the two fifliers who were in the boat being furprifed at this drange fight, one of them
unadvifedJy drew a knife, and thruft it into her bread, whereupon Ine cried, as they
judged, *^ Alas!" and the hook giving way (he fell backward and was no more feen :
the hook being big went in at her chin and out at the upper lip. The man who thruft
the knife into her is now dead, and, as was obferved, never profpered after this, but
was dill haunted by an evil fpirit, in the appearance of an old man, who, as he thought,
ufed to fay unto him, " Will ye do fuch a thing, who killed the woman ?" the other
man then in the boat is yet alive in the ifle of Burra. This a gentleman and his lady
told me, who faid they had it from the baillie of that place to which the boat did bc-
lt)ng ; it being fo drange I inquired at feverals thereanent, which, though many were
ignorant of, yet fome faid that they had heard thereof, and judged it to be very true.

That there are fearcreatures having the Hkenefs of men and women feems to be ge-
nerally acknowledged by all who have inquired thereunto, they having found it con-
firmed by the tedimony of many in feveral countries, as their hiftories do bear. Hence
are accounts given of thofe fea-monders, the mermen and mermaids, which have not
only been feen but apprehended and kept for fome time. And hence probiibly the
fidion of the poets concerning the fyrens, hath had its rife ; thefe enchanting fong-
fters, tranflated mermaids by our lexicographers, whofe fnare Uly fles fo happily efcaped ,

They tell us that feveral fuch creatures do appear to fifliers at fea, particularly iiich
as they callfea-trowec!, great rolling creatures tumbling in the waters, which, if they
come among their nets, they break them, and fometimes take them away with them ;
if the filhers fee them before they come near, they endeavour to keep thtm off with
their oars or long ftaves, and if they can get them beaten therewith, they will endea-
vour to do it : the fidiers both in Orkney and Zetland are afraid when they fee them,
which panic fear of theirs makes them think and fometimes lay, that it is the devil in the
ihape of fuch creatures ; whether it be fo or not as they tipprehcnd, 1 cannot deter-
mine. However it feems to be more than probable, that evil-lpirits fj-equent both fea
and land.

A gentleman in the parilh of DunroiTncfs told one of the minidcrs in this country, that
about five years fince a plough in this parilh did call up frefii cockles, though the place*
where the plough was going was three quarters of a mile from the fea ; which cockles the
gentleman faw made ready and eaten. How thefe Ihcll fiflies came there, and flVould
be fed at fuch a dillance from their ordinary element I cannot know, it they have not
been cad upon land by a violent ilorm, much of the ground of this parilh, efpecially
what they labour, lying very low, anil the fea hath been obferved in fuch dorms both to
cad out dones and fiflies; or if thefe cockles have been found in fome deep furrow,
from which to the fea there hath been a conveyance by fome fmall Ikeamj upon which
the fea hath flowed in dream tides, efpecially when there is alfo fome dorm blowing.
If only fhells were found, fuch as of oyflers and the like, tlic marvel would not be grear,
feeing fuch are found upon the tops of high mountains, at a greater dillance from the-
fea, which in all probability have been there fince the univ 'rfal deluge; but tliut any
diell-fifli fhould be found at fome didance from the fea and lit for ul'e, is fomcwhat '•
wonderful and adonifliing.

'J'hough no tortoifes uf'e to be found in all thefe northern fcas, yet in Urie fiiih, in'^
the pariih of Nortlvwevan, there was one found alive upon the fand in an ebb, the ihell'

I ill
I

"Ml

790

brand's description of 0RKN£Y,

of it was given me as a prefent by a gentleman of the country, it is about a foot in length,
and A large half foot in breadth. The inhabitants thought it fo ftrange, never any fuch
thing having been found in thefe feas formerly, which ever they came to the knowledge
of, that they could not imagine what to make of it, fome faying that it hath fallen out
of fome Eall: India fliip failing along by the coads, which looks not fo probable.

There is a place in this country called the Neip, in the parilh of Nefton, looking to
the cad fea, where the parfon of Orphir in Orkney was killed ; the (lory is this : Pa-
trick Stewart, Earl of Orkney, as hath been faid,wasa great oppreflTor, enafting feveral
fevcre and cruel afts, whereof complaint was made to King James VI. And as it re-
ported fome Zctlanders went to the King with their (kin-coats, laying the oppreffed con-
dition of their country before him, wherewith the King was moved, yet although not
only the Earl's honour and reputation withal was much flained and under a cloud, by
reafon of his cruel and oppreflive ways, but his perfon was hated and abhorred by the
people whole fuperior he was ; the parfon of Orpbir did zealoufly fland in the Earl's
defence, notwithHanding whereof the indignation and kindled wrath of the exafperated
people againfl: the Earl increafmg, the parfon was forced to flee to Zetland for his fafety,
upon which the people of Orkney not quieted, fome of them purfued him thither ;
they fay the puriuers were four brethren of the name of Sinclar, who coming to the
Neip where the parfon had his ordinary refidence, they apprehended and dewitted him,
one of the brethren taking a fop of his heart's blood. As for the Earl, being firft im-
prifoned at Dumbarton, he was thence brought to Edinburgh, where he was beheaded,
anno 1614, for treafon and oppreflion.

There are alfo in this country, as well as in Orkney, many eagles, which deftroy
their lambs, fowls, &c. for the preventing of which, fome, when they fee the eagles
catching or fleeing away with their prey, ufe a charm, by taking a ftring whereon they
caft fome knots, and repeat a form of words, which being done, the eagle lets her prey
£111, though at a great diftance from the charmer ; an inltance of which I had from a
minifter, who told me, that about a month before we came to Zetland, there was an
eagle that flew up with a cock at Scalloway, which one of thefe charmers feeing, pre-
£ently took a ftring, (his garter as was fuppofed,) and cafting fome knots thereupon,
with ufmg the ordinary words, the eagle did let the cock fall into the fea, which was
recovered by a boat that went out for that end.

They tell a pleafant ftory of an eagle and a turbot : about fix years fmce an eagle fell
down on a turbot, fleeping on the furface of the water, on the cad fide of Brafla ; and
having faftened his claws in her, he attempted to fly up, but the turbot awakening, and
Ijeing too heavy for him to fly up with, endeavoured to draw him down beneath the
water ; thus they ftruggled for fome time, the eagle labouring to go up, and the turbot
to go down, till a boat that was near to them, and beheld the fport, took them both,
felling the eagle to the Hollanders then in the country. For they fay when the eagle
hath faftened his claws in any creature, he cannot loofe them at his pleafure, but
ufeth to eat them out, fo that the prey fometimes cometh to be a fnare to this ra-
pacious fowL

On the weft fide of the Mainl;».nd, there is a holm belonging to a gentleman in the
parifti of Northmevan, fo much frequented by fuwl, that when fometimes they go into
It in the fuinmer feafon, fowls of feveral kinds will fly fo thick above their heads, that
they will cloud the very air, yet therein there are few or none during the winter, but
in February they ufe to begin to come by pairs, and for two or three days after they firft
come they will fit fo clofe*, that almoft tluy may be taken hold of, which is imputed to
their being wearied after a long flight from fome far country : the proprietor of this

3 holm

holm
ly be
fowls
about.
To

ZETLAND, PIOHTLAND.FIRTH, ANB CAITHNESS.

791

holm may almoft every day in fummer take a balket full of eggs out of it, and they fcarce-
ly be miffed, for it is fo well furnilhed, that none almoft can fet down a foot for young
fowls or eggs, which are very lerviceable to this gentleman's houfe, and the country
about.

To the eafl: of Braffa is an ifle called the Nofs of Braffa, wherein a ragged rock look-
ing to the fouth-ealt, the highelt in all this country, ferviceable to mariners for dire£t-
ing their courfe when failing to the weft from eadern couniries, fome gentlemen told us
that they verily think from the furface of the water to the top of the rock, it will be three
hundred fathoms, upon which a great many fowls have their nefts, whofe eggs they
take hi the fummer time, as alfo Tome of the fowls, by letting a man down from the
top of the rock by a rope tied about his middle : before this ifle lieth a rock ragged on
all fides, about one hundred fathom:, high, from the furface of the water, but by reafon
of its rajgednefs and declivity, and its being furrounded with fea on all hands, it is
fcarce poflible to climb it. Yet the owners of the ifle, being defirous to be at the fowls
and eggs numerous upon it, about one hundred years fmce there was a man for the hire
of a cow undertook to climb the lefier rock, and to faften two poles or (lakes thereupon,
which he accordingly did, but in the coming down, he fell into the fea and perilhed.

The way how they get into this leffer rock is oMervable, which is thus; oppofite to
the two flakes on the leffer, there are alio Hakes ladened on the higher rock, it being
but fixteen fathoms over between the rocks ; to which flakes ropes are fattened, reach-
ing fron. rock to rock, the ropes they put through the holes of an engine called a cra-
dle ; all which being fo prepared, a man getteth into the cradle, and warpeth himfelf
over from the Nofs, or the greater rock to the leffer, and fo having made a good pur-
chafe of eggs and fowls bought at the expence of the danger of his life, he returns the
fame way he went, thcfe ropes hang not on all winter, but in the fummer time ; in the
month of June ordinarily, when the day is calm, they call the ropes from the greater to
the leffer rock ; which fo they do, they have fir(t ibme fmall rope or cordage, to which
there is a ftonc fattened, and they keeping both the ends of this fmall rope in their
hands, an able man throweth the ftone into the leffer rock, and when caft over the flakes,
they heave or lift up th!^ fmall rope with a long pole, that fo the bought of the rope may
be gotten about the llukcs ; which being done they draw to them the fmall rope till a
greater tied to it he brought about alfo, and fo both ends of the greater rope they fecure
by the Hakes on the top of the Nofs, on which ftrong and greater rope the cradle being
put, it runneth I'rom rock to rock : cafily a man in the cradle goeth from the Nofs to
the hohu or rock, by reafon of its defccnt, but with greater difficulty do they return,
therefore there is a fmall rope tied to the cradle, whereby men on the Nofs help to
draw them back. I do ..'^* hear that any where fuch another cradle is to be found ;
how many arc the inventions which man hath found out !

This holm is much frequented by fowls more than any other place on the eaft fide of
Zetland, as the other holm of Northmevan is on the weft fide ; the fowls have their
netts on the holms in a very beautiful order, all fet in rows in the form of a dove cote,
and each kind or fort do nettle by themrdvcs ; as the fcarfs by themfelves, fo the kitti-
wakes, tominories, mawes, &c. There is a fowl there called the fcutiallan, of a black
colour, and as big as a wild duck, whif-h doth live upon the vomit and excrements of
other fowls whom they purine, and having apprehended them, they cauie them vomit
up what meat they have lately taken, not yet digefted. The Lord's works both of na-
ture and of grace are wonderful, all fpeaking forth his glorious goodnefs, wifdom and
power.

Remarkable are the dangers, which many in thefe ifles undergo in climbing the rocks
for fowls and eggs, elpccially inFoula, where the inhabitants in the fummer time do molt

live

,792

brand's DESCarPTION OF ORKNEY,

live by this' kind of provifion, and are judged to be the beft climbers of rocks in all this
country, for fome of them will fallen a ftake or knife, as fome fay, in the ground on
the top of the rock, to which they tie a imall rope or cord, and fo they will come down
the face of the rock with this in their hand fixty, feventy, or eighty fathoms, and do re-
turn bringing up eggs and fowls with them ; but indeed very many of them lofe their
lives this way ; yea it is obferved that few old men are to be feen there, they being fo
cut off before they arrive at old age ; many of them arc weary of the dangej*s and ha-
zards tliey daily incur, yet neither will they leave the place, nor give overthefe perilous
attempts, all the fad inOances of their friends and neighbours pcrifhing, and death can-
not have this influence to deter and affright them from undergoing the like hazards : at
fo fmall a rate do they value t^ieir lives, that for a few fowls and eggs they will endanger
them, whereas they might have as good and a much fafer living elfewhere : as this (hew-
eth both their folly and their fm, fo what fatigue and danger men will expofe themfelves
to, for the avoiding poverty and (Iraits, for the upholding this clayey tabernacle, which
ere long will moulder into the dull, and often not fo much for the latisfying the neceffary
cravings of nature, as thefuperfluousand infatiable defires of our lufls. Sometimes one
man will (land on the top of the rock holding the end of the rope in his hand, andano*
ther will go down, which neither is without danger, as they tell us of one who thus hold-
ing his neighbour did let the rope flip, and down fell the climber into the fea, but provi-
dentially there being a boat near by, they got hold of him, and took him in, and fo came
home before his neighbour, who judged him to have periftied : the other man at length
came home with great forrow and grief regretting the death of his neighbour, but he
hearing that he was already come home, was not a little confounded and afloniflied at
the report, until that at meeting, the man in danger narrated the manner of his deliver-
ance, w hich afforded unto them both great matter of refrefliment and joy.

In all this country there are only three towered churches, (i. e.) churches with towers
on them, to wit. 'liiigwall, on the Mainland, the church of Burra on the ille of Burra,
and the church of Ireland a promontory belonging to the main, from the top of one of
which towers you can fee another, built they fay by three fillers, who from their fove-
ral towers could give advcrtifement to one another.

The church of 'lingwall llanJeth in a valley between two hills lying call and weft,
is about the middle of the Mainland. It was in this parifli, in a fmall holm, within

a lake nigh to this church, where the principal feud or judge of the country ufed to
fit and give judgment, hence the holm to this day is called the Law-'ling, (from which
probably the parifli of Ting wall had its name:) we go into this holm by ftepping ftones,
where three or four great Hones are to be feen, upon which the judge, clerk and other
officers of the court did fit. All (he country concerned to be there flood at fome diflance
from the holm en the fide of the loch, and when any of their caufes was to be judged
or determined, or the judge found it neceffary that any perfon fhould compear before
him, he was called upon by the ofiiccr, and went in by thefe ftepping (tones, who when
heard, returned the fame way he came ; and though now this place be not the feat of
judgment, there is yet fomething among them to this day, which kecpcth up the me-
mory of their old pradice for at every end of the loch there is a houfe, upon whofe grafs
the country men coming to the court did leave their horfes, anil by reafon the maflers
of.thefe houfcs did iuft'er a lois this way, they were declared to be fcot-free ; hence at
this prefent lime, two places in the parilh of Sanding do pay fcot for the one, and Con-
ningfburg in Dunroiihefs for the oiher ; fcot is a kind of rent or due, which is yearly
paid to the King or his taxmen, by the gentlemen and feveral others in the country.
This .court is t^iought to have been kept by the Daiici>, when they were in poffeffion of

3 the

ZETLAND, nOHTLALBlIRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

793

rruntry. They alfo report that when any perfon received fentcncc of Jcaih iipoii
the hohn, it" afterwards he could make his efc?.pe through the crowd of people (tiindinp
on the fide of the loch, witl.oiit being apprehended, and touch the ffceple of the churcli
of Tingwall, the fcntence of death wau reprieved and the condemned obtained an indem-
nity : for ti;is Iteeple in thcfo liays was held us an af) lum for malefiidors, debtors charged
by their creditors, &c. to flje into.

In the way between Tingwall and Scalloway, there is an high (lone ftanding in form
of an obcliik as feme ancient moniimenr, concerning which the people have various tra-
ditions, fume faying that in the Smith of 'iingwall, where this flone is ercftcd, there
vas a bloody fight between the Danes and the old inhabitants or natives of this country,
and that the Noi"vcgian or Uanifh general was killed in this place, where the flone is
let up. Others report that one of the Earls of Orkney had a profligate and prodigal
Ion, who for this caui'c being animadverted upon by his hahor, fled to '/.etland,and there
built a callle or a llrong h.oufe for himfclf within a loch at Stroma, within two miles of
'lingwall to the welt, the ruins whereof arc yet to be fcen : his father not being fatisfied
with his efcape, and the way he took for his defence, font from Orkney four or five men
to purfuc him, to whom he gave orders that they fliould bring his fon to him either dead
or alive : the fon iheroupon not finding himfelf fafe enough in Iiis cafUe, nifide his efcape
from the callle, where the purfuers lay in ambufli, but was overtaken by them in the
Straith of Tingwall and killed there, whereupon this monument was erefled. 1 he pur-
fuers took off his head, and carried it with them to his father, but in fo d(nng they were
fo far from gratifying of him, that he caufed them all to be put to death, notwithlland-
ing of the orders given by him.

There is in the parilh of Tingwall a little off the way as we go from Lerwick to Scal-
loway, a fountain or fpring of very pure and pleafant water, which runneth through a
great llone in the rock by the pallage of a round hole, which if you (lop, the water
forceth its way through the pores of the (tone In other places, the flone it fcems being
very porous and fpungy.

One of the luinilters told us of a monller born the lafl year in the parifh of Neflon,
about nine or ten miles from Lerwick ; that one day when he w as coming to the prefby-
try, and (landing at the f^rry-hde over which he was to pafs, two women came to him
acquainting him with fear and grief, that their ncigbour nearby had been travailling in
child-birth under hard labour for three days pall, and had brought forth a monller,
which had upon its forehead like a perriwig c flefli and hair, railed and towered up,
and by the fides of the head there were like w as of iiefh comini:- dowii : inoreover it
had two rows of teeth, with a mouth like a ra. bit, deflitute of arms and legs ; after
tile birth there was fome life in it, and it mucd a little, but lived not long; the
women aliilUng at the birth for a time were afraid to touch it, it being fueh a flrangc and
formidable fi;4ht. This miiiiiler defired to fa- it, but it was buried before ho came.
Tiie lame woman \i\io formerly had brought forth two mnnders, the firfl whereof
was a confufed and undigellcd lump of Hefh ; and the focond had a mouth in its
brcafl.

\Vc enquired concerning the woman, and they told us that they knew nothing of fcandal
they could lay to her ciiarge, but that fiie had lived foberly all lier life ; only oneof the mi-
aiflers informed us that after file had brought forth the firfl monflcr, ho heard that for a
year's time thereafter, fhe ul'ed to go barefooted to the church of Wifdale (vory Lord's
Day, and pray there according to the vow (lie had made after the birth, thiiikinj thereby,
thai this might atone for what w.\s pall, and preve.itthe like for the future. If this be

VOL. in. 5 1 true,

794

brand's description of orknev.

true, God hath judicially puniflicd her, by conceiving and bringing forth the two foU
lowing monders, each more wonderful and preternatural tiian the other.

Several adulteries came before the couunilfion attended with heinous and apgravatin;^
circuiuflanees. One inltance we had very remarkable of one Janvs ?>'Io\vat in theparifli
of Northmevan, who had been lying in adultery with one Cd.jra Tulloch, his wife be'iig ^
dead not numy years fince. Iktween which Mow at and Tulloch there had fevral children
been procreated, who were all idiots and fools, fo that they could not keep tliemfclves
either from hre or water, or put their meat in their mouths, though \\\vi\- be one of them
of twenty years, and others of them thouvji younvrer, \ct come to iome coufiderable age ;
which Tiewcth the manilvll: judgment of God againlt adulterers, he often ordering his
providential dilpeni'ations fo towards them, that they may read their fin in their punifli-
ment, as this wretched man was forced by the power of his i'o lar convinced confcience to
confefs before the prelbytery, that he wasfenlible the judgments ot God were purfuing
him, whereof he gave the faid fad inftance, as yet to be fet-n from the prt fbytery's records.
Another adulterer alfo did compear before us, who did cmitinue in the commiflion of
this his fill for many years, and doth bear in his face the lliameful reproof thereof, and
the jufl marks of the Lord's indignation againil; him for the fame. It is a very fad thing
for any to be pining away both in judgments and fms.

A miniller here told me a paif.ige, not to be paiVed without a remark of God's righte-
ous judgment and hoUnefs; a certain woman in his parilh about ten years fince fell in-
to adultery with an old miirricd man ; he to cover his villainy, advifod her to give way to
another young man's fmning with her, who then was in fuit of her and frequented her
company, that io if there were a child, fhe might father it upon this young and unmar-
ried man; accordingly, as was advifed, it fell out, the young man finned with her, and
flie being found wii!i child, is fummoned to c<»m|H.'ar before ilieieHion, who having in-
terrogated her concerning her uncleannefs, and who was the father of tiie child, fliean-
Iwered that flie never knew or had carnal dealing with any, fave fuch a young man ;
but this covering could not ferve the turn in palliating their filthinefs, God in his wife
providence fo ordering it, that though there was the interval of five months between the
old and the young man's finning with her, yet when the time ot her delivery came, fhc
firllbrought forth a perfed child of nine months, and the day after anotlur imperfect of
four months, accor.jing to the fveral linus of the old man, anil the young man's fin-
ning with her. Slij being convinced that this was of the Lord, and that ilie could not
hide her fins frotn (Jovl, though Ihe fought to do it from men, (he ingenuoufly acknow-
ledged her guilt with both, and for the fcandal is now giving fatisfaction in the parilh of
UidL

We had alio the Inmentable account of the tragical end of one Mr. Gilbert Hendry
adulterer, in repute, tor his acutenels of wit, and the many excellent poems he com-
pofed : he being a married man had carnal convcrfe with another wonan, at which his
friends and weU-wiihers being greatly concerned, one of them laid hold of an opportu-
nity to accoft and i\ t upon hnn, cuiu-itly intreating !ie might break olf liis unclean and
ilebauched convcrfe with tiiat wonun, hoUlmg out unto firn liis fin and mifery, and
ufing what argummto he thought might pr jvail lor that end, but he gave a deal ear un-
to ail that was faid, and by no means would be dilfuaded from haunting her company,
yea, in contempt of the admonition and reproof, made as if he were }:oing to that wo-
man's houfe the lame night, and lo parting from his friend, went in the evening to a
water or loch fide, where he walked for fomttime alone, and then appeared a man in
company witli hiiu all in black, and thus they coutmued walking together till night, as

12 the

ZETLAND, WOIITLAND-FIRTB, AND CAITHNESS.

795

the people obferving did judge, and the next morning this miferable wretch was found
dead niih Ills iM-ains daflicd out, (Jihough there were no (tones near to the place vihere
he lay), or. a hill fidt? at a little diftance from the water, his head and (houlders lying
dtnvnuanl to the defcent of the hill, his brains were fcattcred, and the ground about him
was all tmdeii, as if there hud been (faith my informer), twenty men and horfes for
twcnty-f >ur hours upon the fpot. It is not many years fince this fell out. So bad a re-
compenoj doth the de\ il give his valiaKs and (laves for their forvlcc, for whoremongers
and adulterers God will judge, which judgments often hebeginneth to inflift in this lll"e,
for the puniihment of the guilty, and the terror of all, and to flicw that he is of purer
cyi.r. th:'n that he can behold fuch horrid iniquity ; though the pouring out of the full
vials of his wrath he referveih for the future, where iheir worm fliall not die, nor the
fire for ever be quenched.

The (ignal defeat and overthrow of the Spanifli Armada, that fuppofed and commonly
(tho'jrh arrogantly) called Invincible Navy, anno 1588, is famous in hiflory, which was
tTpc'cially c.iufedby 1 ormy winds and tempehs, fome thereby finking at fea, others fplit-
ting upon tiie coafts uothof Kn;^huid and France, and efpecially upon the north of Scot-
land, Orkney and Zetland ; anil the Fair Ifle had the honour of the Duke of Medina's
being driven on fhore upon it, under whole condud this navy was ; who after his fhip-
wreck came over to Dunroflhefs in Zetland, as an old gentlewoman informed me ; of
whom (lie heard the country people fay who faw him, frequently fpeak, when flie was a
child ; fo the Lord difperfed and broke this huge and formidable navy, that of a hund-
red and thirty fhips which fet out from Spain with provifion, ammunition, and other
furniture exceeding great, fcarce thirty returned ; the God of land and fca heard and an-
fwcred the prayers of his people in Britair), the curfe of God purfuing that hellilh enter,
prifo, notwithlhmding of the intallible Popifli benediclion on that invincible armada ;
for as our hiftorian Calderwood obferveth, " The rumour of the great Spanifli armada
being blazed abroad, fervent were the prayers of the godly in Scotland, powerful
and piercing were the fermons of preachers, efpecially in the time of faft, whereupon
the Lord uttered his voice againft his, and his church's enemies, by terrible things in
righteoufnefs ; our coafts upon which many of that fleet were call away, and fome of
the people in it begged from door to door, proclaiming aloud the glory of his juftice
and power."

There are no weafels in all the northern ifles of Zetland, as I am informed, though
numerous in the Mainland, which they report thus came to pafs : the falconer having %
power givjn him, to get a hen out of every houfe, once in the year ; but one year they
refufmg, or not being fo willing to give, the falconer out of revenge, brought the next
year two weafels with him, which did generate and fpread, fo that now they are become
very deftrudive to fevcral goods of the inhabitants, whereof a gentleman our informer,
told us he had killed feveral half an ell long.

Chap. IX. — Tbc Fijh-Trade is mojl confukrabU., in Zetland.

OF all the things remarkable in Zetland, their fifl)- trade is the mofl: confiderable',
wherefore I have chofcn to fpcak of it by itl'elf. Which I fl^iail labour to do, by fhcw.
ing what fifljing they have in thcfc fcas, and what fiflirs they do mofl aboind in, and
have plenty of ; and then hold out who are thcfe who trade, and what ad\ antiges do
accrue thereby unto the inhabitants, with fomc refledions upon the whole.

The fifhing here is much decayed by what it was, for now neither is there fixh a great
number of fifhcs taken, nor fo eafdy can they be had, as formerly j for not above forty

5 I « or

796

URANDS DESCRIPTION OF ORKN1.V,

or fifty years linco, the fiflicrs would have taken tlie great fiflics,fuch as killcn, ling, kc,
in the vocs or lochs, and that in great numbers, and fo were not neceflitateJ to undcrly
fuch danger and toil in g;>in;^ out to the fea, but could have lien before their own dnors
and drawn the fiihcs, which certainly was more fal'e, ealV, and convenient to them in
many refpecis ; whereas now they are obliged to put out fome leagues unto the ffa,
and fo far oi'ten that they almoft hnk the land, clfe they cannot have any filhing worth
I heir expencc and pains, which cannot but bo very toilfome and dangerous, in cafe a
ftonn Jliould arife and blow oil' the land, and fo put them to fea with their little boats
or yawls, not able to keep liHig out a(j;ainfl; the violent and fwelling waves ; and fo it
hath fallen out to fome, wlio being toiled to and fro, whither tide and wind did drive
them, have never leen land any more : and as it is dangerous, fo it is toilfome, and cofts
them much labour, feeing often they lie fome nights and days at fea, and not come
aihore.

The fiHiing formerly being greater than what noWit is, oocafioned, they (i»y, fome
hundreds of more fliips to relort yearly unto, this country than what now ufe to do,
when fiflies cannot be had to fervc them ; and indeed neither now are the fifhes fo
fought after as fomctime they have been, whtn they could eaiily be had, many being
willing rather to (lay at home and catch what they can about the coalls, which ordi-
narily are but thefmaller fi!h?s, than to undergo fuch hazards and toil in following the
greater, which an Hamburgh merchant waiting for a lading complained to me of.

Although when we inlHtute the comparifon between the former and the latter times,,
their prefent fifliing will appear to be but fmall ; yet if we take it under view as it is iix
itfclf without fuch a refped, we will find it to be very conlidcrable ; for though in fome
years it be greater than in others, yet (very year many trading (hips are tliercby laded,
and this fame year 1700 the filhing is thought to be very gojd : an indance wiKreof x
merchant gave us, that in one week in the month of Juiie there wer^- taken by fame:
boa 8 belor.ging to one place, of Northmevan, four thoufaiid ling, all which were brought
in for the loading of that fliip wherein he v.as conct rncd : and another gentleman
added, that fome other boats at a little dillance from thiCe, drew about fjvcn hundred
more ; but this was fomething extraordinary, and ul'eih not often to fall out that in one
week they take fuch a number.

The fifiies that do molt abound here are kiMin, ling, kc, which being falted and.
dried, foreigners export thvm to other countries; of theif, as hath b 'cn (aid, there is
great plenty, but are not ordinarily taken near the land : as for haddocks, whitings, and.
fuch lelTer'white tHhes, they care not fo much for the feeking after, except what is fur
their own ufe, for (trangcrs ufe but ll'Jom to buy them : and thefe gn ater fidies they
net a greater quantity of in fome places than in oth'.rs ; as olf DunroUuefs, Northinevan,
Unit, Yell, kc.

Great (lioals of herring do fwim alfo in thcTe foas, which are taken in the fununcr
feafon, elpLcially in the munth of July and the be;.>inning o( Augufl, for fometimes then
they will come within a penny-ltone cafl of the ftiore, and be fwimming fo thick, and
taken fo (.ill, that one boat will call upon another to come nnd help them, and take a
part of thtir (iihcs. Thef- herrings taken hi re are reckoned to be very good, if not
among the belt, that are taken upon the ifies bclon^^ing to tht; King of Britain's domi-
nions; and as now faitl oi the white ' fli, fo it is of the herrings, they freouent fome
places more than others ; as off Braifa to the eaft, and b. twecn Brafla and Whalfey,
or the Skerries, where th-j bulfes do commonly lie, withi:i light of the land of Zetland.
And whatever mav be faid of Groiius his rune coiii.iiune vv Jibcrum, yet it holds here, for
any have or take liberty to come and fi(h ;n thefe feos, wr.;.ju: wiy way acknowledging
tiidi fovcrcignty whcrcuato thelc ilks clu belong.

There

TZ'lJbAUD, PTGHTLANB-PIRTH, AND CAITHNESI.

797

There nrj likewirc here a great many grey fiOies taken, which they call filluks anJ.
fcths, which arc judged to b^' the Aiinc kind oF filh, only the feths are a greater and older*
filluks, ;i thick ;ind tat ii(h ; lor out of cue liver of fome feths tliey will get a pint of
eur iiic-.ifure of v\\, with which oil the inhahitaits pay part of their rents, and fell tho
reil uiVio merchants. The oil they get after this manner : they put the liver into a pot
or pan i tlf iull of water, wJ!"... when feething, the oil i)y the force of the fire or boiling^
water is drawn froiii the liver, which fo being Icparatid, and fwimming above, they take
cr fcuin it of)', and put in vclli-Is for their uiie. Thelc feths are to be had about all the
coads, but more efpecially about Dunrofl'nefs, Dtlton, and fume other places. The
filluks, as hath been obforved, are very numerous in Orkney, but more rarely are the
fiths to be had there, though the fame kind of fifh ; but in Zetland there is no fcarcity
of both.

Among the many other excellent fiflies which arc here for to be had, there are the*
tufk, a rare, wholofome, and delici )us fi(h, no lefs plealunt to the taftc than they are to
tjie eye ; fome of them are as big as ling, of a brown and yellow colour, with a broad-
tail i when making ready for ul'e they fwell in the pan more than any other fifli ; when
made ready, their fifli is very white and clear ; when new haled, they are much more
pleafant to eat than when falted and dried, for then I think they lofe much more of
their favour and relilh. They begin to fifli for them about thq end of May or beginning
of June, and are taken to the ea(l of the ille of BralTa,. or between Brafla and Whalfey,.
opening to the coafls of Norway, and here only are they to be found, and more rarely
in other places, except off Dunroflhcfs, where alfo fometimes they are got. The fifliers-
often go out about the beginning of the week, and not return home till the end of it,
and the furthc.- they go oft to the fca they will get them the bigger, and in greater num-
bers They ufe to fell them to the Ilamburghers for eight or ten pounds Scots the
hundred, or fix fcore ; anil fome of them alfo are taken to other places, where they are
much defired by fuch as know ihem»

Thofe who commonly frequent this country and trade with the inhabitants are Ham-
burghers, and lometiines Brenieis and others, who come here ordinarily in the month
of May or alout the beginning of June, and in feveral places fet up booths or (hops,
where they fell liquors, as beer, brandy, ike, and whe;iten bread, as that which they call
cringel-bread, and the like; they alfo fell feveral forts of creme-ware, as linen, muflin,
&c. And thefe merchants feek nothing better in exchans^e for their commodities than
to truck uiih the country for their tilhes, which when the filhers engage to, the mer-
chants will give them either money or ware, which they pleafe, and fo the tidicrs going
to ft a, what they take they bring once in the week or oltener, as they have occafion, and
lay them down at their booth door, or in any other place where the merchant appoints
them to be laid, and they being there numbered, the merchants account for them ac-
cordingly : thefe filhes, which are ordiu.iiily gnat white fiflies, as killen, ling, and the
like, the merchants or their fervanis having dried, they take them aboard of their (hips.
Several fuch Dutch booths are to be feen through the ifles, as fix ordinarily in the iila
of Unit, two in Yell, &c.

The Hollanders alio repair to thefe illcs in June, as hath been faid, for their herring
fWhing, but they cannot be fiiid fo properly to trade with the country, as to M\ upon
their coads, andlhey ufe to bring all forts of provifions neceifary with iheni, fave fome
frefli viduals, as Iheep, lambs, hens, &c., which they buy on ftiore. Stockings alfo
are brought by the country people from all quarters to Lerwick and fold to thefe filhers,
for fonu'times many thoufant^s of them will be afliore at one time, and ordinary it s with
them to buy Uuckings to th^iwlclvcs, und fome likewife do to ihcir wives and children,.

which.

79»

BRAKn's nr.acRiPTroN of ouicnj.y,

which is very beneficial to the inhabitants ; for Co nionvy is brought into tht* counh-y,
lliere is a vent fi)r the wool, aiui the poor arc* eniploycJ. Stotkin/^'S alio arc broi,^;i)t
from Orkney and foKl there, wlicreby fonic gaia accrues to tlie retailers, who wait tho
coming of the Dutch fleet for a market.

But efpeciully much advantage dotli red<iund to them from tlieir trade uith the Ilani-
burghers ; for befides that they are furnilhed by them with provifioiis, what necell'ary
what convenient, thefe merchatits brin^ a toididerable (nin of monty \\ ith them, fo that,
as one of their minifters told mc, feveii Ihips arc ordinarily reckoned to have tluee thou-
fand fix hundred dollars aboard, which they leave behind tli «m not only for lillies, but
alio for feveral other thin[;s which are the produt'^ of tli'- country, as butter, oil, &c. ;
and if any pleafe not to take their conunoditics, they pref'jnily give them money upon
receipt ot their goods. The proprietors alfo, or mailers of the grouml upon which
thefe booths aro built, reap a confiderable pain, for ibme of them will j;et twenty dollar;?
per nniiiim for the ule of a houfe in the fun;mer feafoii to be a booth ; and I think twice
or thrice the fum will build them.

Upon the whole of this chapter we may entertain thefe following n (legions : firft,
hence we may oblerve the power, wifdom, and gnodiiels of God ; his power in that
bis banc's have made this great and wide fea, wherein are things creeping innumerable;
how many millions of great and fmall filhes are every year taken, yet the next we ex-
peft to be ferved with as great a number ; God giving thefe creatures the fea for their
proper habitation, and providing fuitable provilion for them in that element, where
neither feed-time nor harvelt, yet all theie wait upon him, and he givcth their meat in
duefeafon. His wifdom, in that wife and beautiful order to be obllrved among thefe
brutal creatures, the feveral kinds knowing their coming and their going time, and their
loving to frequent one place of the water more than another, though both under the
fame climate: their going forth all of them by bands, though they have no king, over-
ic^Cy or ruler, ihel\: f/f nam mcfa coborfes, though not governed by principles of reafon,
yet by their natural inllincl being rcafonably adted, each to their proper ends, for thu
maintenance and prefcrvation of their feveral kinds, give occafion to reafonable man to
acknowledge, admire, and adore the infmite wifiom of Iiis and their maker. Here alfo
thegoodndis of God is to bj obferved in this, that all thefo are given for the fervice of
man, that not only our tables fliould be furnilhed with the creatures that breathe in the
fame element with us, but alfo with thefe that live in another ; and feeing all thefe are,
as it were, facrificed for our ufe, fltould we not " prefent ourfeives fouls and bodies
living facrifices holy and acceptable unto God, which is our reafonable fervice." Seeing
that God hath made man to have dominion over the bealts of the field, the fowls of the
air, and the fifties of thcfea, ftiould we not gratefully Ihew forth his praife, and fay wirh
all the wife oblervers of Providence, " O Lord our Lord, how excellent is thy name in
in all the eartii ?"

2. If is thefifliing only which makes this country any way defirable, elfe it would be
very unpleafant living there, as Boethius of old did obferve : Qucrum t/cr unker/te in
pifiibusfolc ititftu'lis, quas qmta.xms ad cos acccdcntcs Uollandi, Ze/undi oc Cennt^ni a/ia-
ritfi.ffue rcrum viilganum pennuUitiont mtnauiur. Yea, if we abltratt frtm ihtir liftiing-
trade, in many phces there could not be aiiy living at all, they not having fields either
for corn land or grazing j but they trading in fifhes with foreign merchants, who import
many goods for tfie more comfortable living of the country, their conung in the fuinmer
is very refrelhful to all the inhabitants, the thoughts and expectation of which in the
winter doth not a little revive them, when they (hall enjoy fonie better fare than what
•their country doth afiord, when H;.niburgh liquors and G«inmodi(i*i& (liall he brought

ZUTI.AND, PJOHTLAKD-riRTIf, ASV> CAITHNESS.

799

to their donre, which bciiij; cxperttd and dcfireJ, may occafion fonu'tlmcs their takiiij'
of a largt-r ci:p, thoy kijowiiitr tliat the booilis will not alwayK (land open.

3. It i8 to bo oblerveit, ilut IHII tlie further iiortli we go the filhes are to be had in
greater abiirJancc; in '/, 'tl.iiul more than in Orkuy ; and in Iceland, to the norlli of
/•.tland, more than in i ithcr, the inhabitants tlier<: uiolUy living upon fifhes : and ajjaiii
we may notic •, as there is not lucli a plenty of fifhes in t)rkney as in Zetland, yet there
is a i^reat T of cor;i ; and fo in '/etiand there is more corn than in Iceland, for in Iceland
tliey iiave litih?, if any, corn as the product oi their country, as fonie in /cllanJ did in-
form me, who iiavc convorfed witli thele who have bt-en tiiere ; therefore the common,
ahy generally make ule of drit-d liihes beaten fmail inilead of bread, as Hoethius hintelh
at: Ultra Schctlandiciis ti/ia rfiailatn infula^ qux pifccs arc folios ac J'olc imhiratos pijlilk
contutuhint, viox achnijia aq:iii in l>nJtillos c^mpauunt ^ ntque ad fnum torrent-, qui illis pants eji :
which (heweth us the great wiidoni of God in his great works of providence, who be-
Ilowelh not all bleilings ujion every nation ; but when he denieth or giveth lefs of ono
blefling to one nation or country, he alloweth them more of another ; which is alio
often obferved with relped to particular perlbns. This variety likewile (heweth thi>
iiecellity and-advantage of one nation or kiiigdoin's trading; v.ith another.

4. The filliing-trade is very lucrative and enriching to thofe who clofely i'ollow itj
it is commonly faid that it is the filhing which (ird railed the Netherlands to tiiat pitch
of grandeur and wealth which now they have arrived at ; hence fome hiltorians call thj
filhery the Goldmine of Holland, and that by tht-ir filhing elpecially in the Briiilh {^w^'y
and if it were not fo very gainhil, what would make them every year equip I'uch a tm-
rierous ileet of feveral hundreds of bulVes, under the guard and proteflion of their con-
voys, but that they know the '/jtland fcas makes their mills to go, therefore they do fo
wan^.'y purfue this trade, and encourage the undertakers thereof: and {o it is with the
Ilamo-uvhers and other merchants, elpecially in the ilans Towns, who trading here
tluring the fuinmer fe.dbn, return home in Augull or September, they not only with
fifties ferving their re.'petUve cities, but by fending them alfo up the country do make
a good market, which engaj^eth and encourageth them to return every year and follow
the lame trade.

5. 'i he conllderation of this great gain that doth redound to the trading merchants,
hath of late animated lome rcntltmen iiad otiv.'rs in /elland to enter into a fociety or
company for trading in fillies ; that whereas ilrangers make fuch a good hand with theif
filhes, they may as well coufult their own profit and gain, by promoting of that trade,
which tendeth lo much to the enriching of others, elpecially feeing thty can do it with
far lefs trouble and exju'nce when he.'e at home, where the fifties are to be had, which
when taken and prepareil may be fent abroad lor I'ale to foreign markets ; whereas the
UaiiiDurghers aiid others which come here are obliged to tarry from home through the
luminer waiting for their lading.

6. It hath been thought very Itrange by many that our own fiftiing, for which we
have fo great and fo inviting advantages beyond others, (hoiild yet be {o much negleded
by ourlelves, and leit to thr improvement of Itrangers, who reap vafl: gain Irom it.
And astliis delerves the ciMifidrration of the government, fo it might be expeded that
the late Jii";ippoiiiimv.nt, in the holy and wife providence, of this nation's; noble and ge-
luiour- attempt to have lettled a foreign pL.ntation, for railinir us from the dunghill of
contempt aiKl poverty, and advancing our wea'th and trade, will excte both thefe worthy
undertakers and olhiTo to employ their ftocks and endeavours in fearching after and
thggiug tliele mines of the t>ctan nearer home, and profiting by thefe bleftings which
Frovidence has brought to our very doors, cfpccially fince thereby not only would a

number.

;H!-ii,

f'O BRANDS OESCRU'TION OF O-RRNFV,

number of Me fcamen be yearly trained for the u[c ami IVrvice of the nation, and tTi?
nation thereby put in a better capacity Jor undertaking and lupponing f^reater prujetlu
of trade in the more remote parts of the world, but likewilc fimiiy poor pe(>ple would
bo employed who are ready to (larve. And it is more roalbnahle we iliould iilh in our
own Teas, than for llrangers i'o to do ; and I ilo grvatly (|UL'ltion if the Hollanders
Ilaniburphcrs or others, would lb permit us to tilh in any fe.isfo nigh to their land, da-
pendint: on their fovercipnty, as wo do ihc:n.

And fur this end Ihipping would lie encoiiniged by the government, and trading mcr-
rl.ants, as the IloUandera, do, an infl.ince whereofw had \\hen in Zetland: a Holland
Ihip came into liraila Sound from cruizing about tin: Fairlfle, waiting for tiie Ka(t India
fleet, having in her wine, brandy, victuals, ^vc. for ihJr ufe, that ihey inij^iit be re-
Ircflicd before they arrived at their port, and this the trading company negleCl not ordi-
narily to ilo. which (heweth tiioy are great encouragers of irade ; and lor ihe encou-
raging of trade, taxations impofed upon Ihipp'rng (hould be cal'y, efpecialiy now when
the trade is io low, that many merchants and ihipnialters, aft' r they have hazarded
their lives and their all, do return lofers home ; for if oilijrwife, no wonder that all con-
cerned in trade be difpirited and liifcourngcd in attempting any thing that is noble,
which might tend to the nation's public good.

Chap. X. — ConuTitin^ Pi^btbuJ-Firtb, the fcveral Tula li'ljich meet therc^ the Danger

ofPtiffiige, Iffc.

THE noife that Pightland-Fir-h makes among many who only have heard thereof, as
being noted and famous for its danger to palTengers, and the caul'es which concur to
render it fo, awakened us more particularly to enquire concerning it, which we had
opportunity to do in our return from Zetland by Orkney to Caithnefs : and therefore
feeing we pafled it in our voyage, I (hall not altogether pafs it in this narrative, but commu-
nicate to the inquifitive what I know either from my own or others' obfervatlon ancntit.

This firth is commonly called Pidland,Pightland, or Penthland-Firth,doubllefs from
the ritn:s whofe kingdom of old Orkney was, divided by this fiith from the continent
of Scotland. lilaw, in his Atlas or Geography, tells us of a certain tradition, (hewing
how it came firft to be io denominated ; that the Picls on a time being defeated by the
Scots, who purfued the viclory unto Caithnefs and Dungilby-head, where the vanquiflied
remnant, fo hotly purfued, not judging themklves fafe, were lorced to take boats and
go over the firth to Orkney ; but the Orkney-men convening upon the alarm of their
landing, did fo warmly receive tiiem with a fiiarp conflict, that the Picl.s were obliged
to retire and take theinfelvcs to tliLir boats again, with wdich they going oil", and not
acquainted with the miming of the tides, thoy all perilhed ; upon whkh fad catailrophc,
lb fatal to ihe Piclilh nation, tiiis ilrth ever fince was called Piciland, or Pi;^ht!and-l''irth.
Buchanan calls it Penthland-l'irth, as it is commonly pronounced, from one Penthus; .
hut who this Penthus was, our hillorian hath not been pleafed to impart unto us : Nam
PcnihlandUi imnlcs^ct frctiim Vcntbla.idicum a Pintho mil a Piflo rompofita vuhri poff'iwt.
Some hiflorians relate that the Pitts coming firit out of Germany into Orkney, which
tl^ey inhabited for a fealon, tlience they palled over to Caithnefs ant,l other parts of the
north of Scotland ; fo that hence this firth is called Pidland-Firth.

The (irth is faid to bo twelve miles broad, anil I think they arc but fliort; but this
may be abundantly compenlld by the danger of th.- pafl'age : it is bounded on the north
by the ides of Orkney, and on the fouth by Dungifby-head in Caithnefs ; to the weft
is the Deucaledonian Ocean, whence the flood comes } and to the call is the German

14 Ocean,

ZITLAND, riOHTLANt>>PlRTH, AND CAITHNF.SS.

8oi

Ocean, whence the ebb runneth. The lamling-placos are Buiwick, the fouthprnmofl
point of South RonaUlfha in Orkney, and Dun^^ilby-head the northcrnnioll in Caith-
nefs, called alio John Grott's Houfe, the northeniinofl Iioufe in Scotland; the man whp
now livt'th in it and kcopetli an inn there is callei! John Grot, who faiih this houfe hath
been in tlu? pcfl'i'flion of liis prodccoHbrs of that name for fomc hundreds of years; which
name of Grot is frequent in Caithnefs. ' Upon the fand by John Grot's honfe arc found
many fmall pleafant buckies and (hells, beautified with diverfe colours, which fome ufe
to put upon a llring arf beads, and account much of for their rarity. It is alfo obf -rved
of thefe fliells, that not one can be found altogether like another ; and upon the review
of the parcel I had, I difccrncd fome difference among them, which variety renders
them the more beautiful.

In the firth are ♦''? iflcs of Swinna, Stroma, and Pightland-Skerrles. From Burwick
to the weft-north-wcft lies Swinna, one of the ifles of Orkney ; a little ifle wherein are
fome inhabitants, who have a good fifhing about the ifle, but often with great danger,
not only b^caufe it is in Pightland-firth, where many tides do go, but becaufe of fome
dangerous wells or whirlpools \vhich are nigh unto it. From Burwick about five or
fix miles to the fouthcaft lies Pightland-Skerries, dangerous to feamen ; thefe Skerries
being in th» mouth of the firth to the eaft, upon which both in ebb and flood there
goes a great fea } therein is fomc good padure, but not inhabited, fave fometimes in the
fummcr fcafon. In the firth alio is the ifle of Stroma, a little pleafant ifle, abounding
with corns, about a mile and an half long, and half, a mile broad, and though it be in
the firth, yet it is not reckoned as one of the ifles of Orkney, becaufe of its vicinity to
Caithnefs, from which it is but about two miles diitant, and this is the only ifle which
belongs unto Caithnefs, and is ftill under the jurifdift^on of the lords of that country.

Befides the ifles there are fomc fkerrics, as before Burwick ; not half a mile from
land, there is one feen at an ebb, upon which three years ago was cad away a fliip be-
longing to Aberdeen, and all the men in her, as they fay, were loft.

Although the fea in this firth floweth and ebbeth twice in the twenty. four hours, as
it dcth in other p'^ :>, yei there is a meeting of many tides here, which running con-
trary one to am^ ,,cr, caufe that great rage, and as it wera a conflift of waters, which is
terrible to br*i ild, and dangerous to engage with : what is the number of thefe tides
cannot well be condefcended upon, fome fay thirteen, others eighteen, and others
twenty* four. Blaw, in his Geography, hinteth at this, and the reafon thereof, fliewing
that tnc lea running among the Orkney Ifles, is Miereby reftrained, and made to go
through the ifles as fo many water-fpouts, which meeting in this firth render it fo formi-
dable and dangerous. But becaufe of the pertinency and elegancy of the hiftorian
upon this head, I Ihall give his own words : Fntum hoc navigantibus formidahile^ nequc
nifijiatis iemporibus, quanquam pojitis ventis, trajc^ui opportunum. Cauja cjl cum ajius
maris quotidie a feptentriombus incltctur in his ! < Orchadas circumfufiu iifque interfujus^
hie primum ohjeilu terrarum coercetur, unde vis Uia immenfa aquarum mtdiis canalibus itu
J'ulas illas permciins, dcin rcliqtto mart in hoc fret ^ iff^'fai luLlantibus etiam maris Vcrgivii ct
OrieiHalis undis formidabiles aquarum vortices cunfummo navium periculo creat. And indeed
when we fee the many impetuous tides coming out into this firth, from among the ifles
of Orkney, each bearmg that courl'e to which they are determined, by the land and ifles
they wafli and beat upon, wo will not judge it ftrange, that there fliould be fuch a
meeting of tides in this firth ; for, as fome exprefe it, '* Every craig-lug makes a new
tide :" and many craigs and lugs are there here.

Hence it is clear that the tide will run with a greater rapidity and force in fome
places than in others ; as when we pafs that part ot thi firth, where we meet with tho

VOL. III. 5 1 tide

8oi

^»^

BRAND'S DESCRlPTlOHvOF ORKNEY,

tide in the ebb running off the fides of Pightland Skerries from fouth-eaft, down into the
Swelchie of Stroma, then the men muft ply their oars and work hard, left they be borne
down into the Swelchie, a dangerous place. When alfo we are three or four miles
from Caithnefs, there is another fuch rapid current coming from the fouth of Dungis-
by-head out of Murray-fntli running upon Stronin, both into the Swelchie on the
north, and into the Merry-men of May on the fouih end of the ifle. In our paffage
through this current, for half an hour, we made not; as we could obferve, one foot of
way, though there were four men tugging at the oars, and no wind blowing ; and in
all probability we had bi'cn carried down upon Stoma, if an able ma^ a palfenger, had
not taken an oar, fo thai then there were three oars upon our ftarboard fide. Ilence
in fome places there is a fwifr, and in others a foft running tide, which the boatmen
being well acquainted with, they will fometimcs rell from their hard labour and refrefli
themfelves a little. . ,

In our paflage we fee the currents before we engage with them, running like the
torrents of fome great rivers, and in fome places we will fee the waters fmooth, and
rough round about ; the reafon wherefore of I know not, if it be not becaufe of fome
tides meeting there, and, as ic were, for fome time qiiiefcent in their centre, fomething
like unto which I have obferved in the meeting of feveral rivers in one place.

In the firth are feveral places remarkable for their danger, as the wells of Swinna,
whereof fome are on the eaft fide and others on the wed fide of the ifle, they are like
unto whirlpools, turning iibout with fuch violence, that if anv boat come nigh unto
them, they will fuck or draw it in, and then turneth it about until it be fwallowed up :
but thefe wells are only Jangerous in a calm, and feamcn or fiihers to prevent their
danger thereby ufe, when they come near them to caft in an oar, barrel, or fuch like
thing, on which the wells clofing, they fafely pafs over. The minifter of the place told
me, that about twenty years ago there were two filher-boats there, who coming nigh
the wells, the men in the one boat feeing their danger, one of thefe men thus afraid
took hold of the other boat by them, and both boats were fwallowed up. One of the
minifters of Zetland told me, there were three of tliefe boats, it f j falling out, that he
paffed the firth the very day after they periflied : yet notwithltanding of thefe dangers
the fifhers will not defift froni filhing about thefe wells j for they obferve the nearer
they come to them, the have the fillies both greater, better, and more numerous, fo
the filhes draw the men, and the wells draw both.

Near to thefe Skerries before Burwick formerly mentioned, are alfo two or three
wells, called the Wells of Tiftala, only dangerous in a flood, as the wells of Swinna
are in an ebb ; thele wells, as fome do judge, are caufed by an hiatus or gap in the earth
below : further I would offer this confideration, that whereas all thefe wcl's are nigh
unto ragged rocks, conftantly beat upon by the tides, there may be fome fecret con-
veyances of the water into caverns at the bottom of the roek, from which they may
pais into fome other places, where they rife again, and that even in tlio fame firth,
though fuch places be unknown, as it is ftoried of many rivers, which fall into and run
many miles below the earth, and come out again in other places. But that which I
judge to be more fimple, is that feveral tides running upon the rocks, aad thence re-
turning and meeting with other tides, caufe fuch a whirl as we fee behind mill-wheels,
fome of the water coming from, and another part as it wore appearing to return upon
the wheel, which caufe fuch a whirl, and no more doth the whirls in the firth require a
hiatus in the earth or a fubterraneous paflfage, than the whirls in the mill's water-
courfes : as for their fwallowing up of boats which are no more feen, this doth not prove
it) for thefe boats may be broken beneath the water upon rocks or the like, and the

I broken

2E.TLANI3, I>1G^1TL#IDMRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

8d]j

broken timber go to the fca, of which there is enough found caft afliore upon thefe ifles.
But many things of this nature are hidden to us, and \vc can only give our conjedurcs
anent them.

There is alfo in this firth the Swelchie of Stroma, a very dangerous place at the
north end of the iile of Stroma, where there is a meeting of fcveral tides which caufeth
the water to rage and malte a dreadful noile, hfard at fome diltance ; as likewife the
fea-billows are raifed high, and appear white and frothy, very terrible to behold, efpeci-
ally if any dorm be lying on, falling unto which all paflengers carefully labour to avoid ;
as a gentleman related to me, that once he was in great danger, the feamen giving
themfelves over for loft, iho'" ^h three miles from the Swelchie, and that in a dead calm,
when within two or three p.. . or butts to Stroma, and tliough fo near land, they had
been carried down into and periflied by this Swelchie, as they all laid their account,
if the Lord had not fpeedily caufed a northern wind to blow, whereby they got hold
of Stroma.

There is another dangerous place at the fouth end of this ifle of Stroma, where is
alfo a great conHiifl of water, called the Merry-men of May, fo called from the houfe of
Mey, a gentleman's dwelling in Caithnefs, oppofite to this ifle, and called Merry-mea
becaufe of the leaping and dancing, as it were, of the waters there, though mirth and
dancing be far from the nnnds ot the feamen and palfengers, who fliall be fo unhappy
as to fall in among them, efpcciaily when any fea is going.

Seeing from what hath been faid this firth is fo very dangerous to pafs, no wonder
that the mariners and others be very careful to lay hold on the fitteft occafion for a fafe
paflage, which they find to be a little before the turning of the tide, when it is beginning
to ebb on the (hore, but the flood is yet running in the fea, then they ufe to go off^
that fo when they are in or nigh unto the middle cf the firth, the tide may be upon the
turn, which caufeth for fome time a ftill and quiet fea, (as to the running of the tides,)
and the feamen are not fo put to it, in wreftling either againft flood or ebb. Buchanan^
fpeaking of thefe feas and the rapid tides, elegantly expreflTeth himfelf: Dme funt
tempejiates quibta ha angujlia ftmtjfuperabiles, aut cum ajiuum relapfu cejfanie undarum
conflidu^ mare iranquU/atur, aut ubi picno aheo (Kquor adfitmmum vtcrementi pervenit^
languefcente utrinque vi ilia, qua undas concilabat, vcluti reccptiti, canente oceano procellis-
et vorticefis pelagi commoti molibusfe velut infua cajira recipientibus.

Anv wind, they obferve, will take them over from Burwick to Caithnefs, if tided
right, and the wind not in fouth-weft, or nigh to that point, and fo from Caithnefs to
Burwick if not in the north-eaft, or nigh to it. But the north-weft wind they call the
king of the firth, not only, I judge, becaufe it will both take them from Caithnefs to
Orkney, and from Orkney to Caithnefs, but alfo becaufe if it blow any thing, it keep,
eth them up in an ebb from fallipg into the wells of Swinna, the Swelchie of Stro.
ma, and the Merry men of Mey. By tiding right alfo they can come over by the
help of oars, though there be no wind : and at any time, though they obferve not the
tide, they can pafs from Orkney to Caithnefs if it blow a good gale from north-eaft, and
fo from Caithnefs to Orkney if the like blow from fouth-weft. The boatmen who ufe
to pafs the firth, from their experience know it belt, and can avoid the fwell of a fea,
when perfons of greater fkill cannot do it.

At no time is there any anchoring in this firth, for if any through ignorance or
otherwife attempt it, within a little time they mult either cut their cables, as fome have
done, and be gone ; or elfe if their anchors or cables break not, they will be ridden
under ; the experience whereof one of our (hips lately had, who cafling anchor even in

5 K a the

8o4

brand's SBSCRIPTlOli) or ORKN£r,

the mouth of the Brth where the tides are tiot fo (Irong, their anchor within a Httle
time broke, and they behoved to go fea.

Li a ftorm, efpecially if it blow from fouth-eaft, (which, they Tay, in the firth caufeth
the greated Tea,) and the tide be running in the wind's eye, the roaring and fwelling
waves are very terrible, and mount fo hteh, that they could vvafh, not only the deck,
but the fails and topmafts of the biggeft mips.

The houfe of Mey formerly mentioned, is a myth, fign, or mark, much obferved by
failors in their palling through this firth between Caithnefs and Stroma ; for they care-
fully fix their eyes upon the lums, or chimney-heads of this houfe, which if they lofe
fight of, then they are too near Caithnefs, and fo ready to run upon fand-banks, but if
they get alfo fight of the houfe, then they are too near Stroma, aud fo may fpl;t upon
the rocks, which lie off the fouth end of Stroma.

Hence we fee, '• They who go down to the fea in (hips, and do bufinefs in the great
waters, thefe fee the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the depths ; that he is a God
glorious in holinefs, fearful in praifes, doing wonders ; he caufeth the wind to blow,and
the fea to flow at his pleafure ; bounding the impetuous tides with the rocks and fand,
faying, Hitherto fliall ye come, and no further, and here (liall your proud waves be
ftayed ; which though they roar yet fliall they not prevail." His goodnefs and power,
putting a reflraint upon them ; his wifdom and counfel dire£ling their turning and
returning for his own glorious ends. Glory to his name !

Chap. XL-^Cotuerning Caitbnefsy and luhat ice found to be mojl remarkable there.

MY difcourfe upon Orkney and Zetland being extended beyond what either was
intended or expelled, I (hall therefore ftudy to be the briefer upon Caithnefs, as like-
wife feeing it is fuppofable, that it may be better known than any of the former, it being
upon the fame continent with us. What then is to be faid thereupon, I (hall difpatch
and fum up in this one chapter.

Caithnefs is the northernmofl province or (hire in Scotland, having Pightland-firth,
vhcreby it is divided from Orkney on the north, the entrance to Murray-firth on the
ea(V, Sutherland and Strathnaver on the fouth, and the Deucaledonian Ocean on the
wdt. It is from that high hill called the Ord of Caithnefs, toward the fouth, whereby
it is divided from Sutherland, to Dungifby-head, about thirty miles long, and from
Thurfo on the weft fide to Wick on the eaft fide of the country twelve miles broad.

As we were much in the dark about the etymology of Orkney and Zetland, fo no
lefs ar'* we here in that of Caithnefs ; upon which Blaw, in his Geography, giveth us
this notandum : *' That many names of places are fomething ftrange, whofe original
feem to be neither Scottifh, Irifli, Danifli, or Norwegian, but unknown, uncertain, and
moft ancient : fuch as Orbiller, Loyibftcr, Robafler, Trumbufter, and innumerable
others, Caterum not. viuUahcorumnominaperegrinum qui J faperey quorum origo neque Scott-
cutttf Hibernkumy Dunicunti aut Norvegicum quid referanttfed ignotm,, incerta, et vetujfma
crigimi videntur^ quaUafunt Orbijlert Loyibjiery Rebajitr., Trumbu/ier, et innumera altu."
And feeing fuch examples of names which are of an unknown original, as are given byt
the biftorian, do all end in fter, I would add that molt of the names of places in this
country do end in fter or ftar, and go, as between twenty and thirty in fter or ftar, and
about twenty in go, as my informer, who had been for fome tinve in the country, did,
reckon them. Of uld, Sutherland, fahh the fame geographer, was called Cattey, and its
inhabitants Catteigh, aiid fo likewifc was Caithnefs and Strathnaver j and in the Irifli^

a Sutherland,

ZETLAND, UGHTLJMD-FlRTtt, AND CAlTHNliSS.

60s

Sutherland, to this day Is called Catey, and its inhabitants Catigh ; fo that Catteynefs is
no other than the promontory or cape of the Cattes or Sutherland, which promontory is
ftretched out from the eaft, (or rather the north) frde, faith the geographer of the
mountain of the Ord, Adeoul Cattey-nefs nihil aliudjit qitam promontorium Cat ta feu Su-
therlandiee, quod promontorium a latere Orieniali montis ordi pratenditur. Thefe Cattiei
are thought to be a people who arrived thither from Germany. Who would have more
of this may confult the above>mentioncd author. Buchanan will have it to be called
Caithnefs becaufe of it being mountainous, but I know not if this reafon will hold,
for the countries adjacent to Sutherland and Stranaver are more mountainous, and there
are few high hills or mountains in it, except at the fouth end thereof, where it borders
with Sutherland, but if it ihould be to called becaufe it is the nefs or promontory of
the mountains, the land by north thefe mountains falling lower and running out in a
promontory into the fea, I judge it would huld better, and be faid tvith greater reafon.
fioethius alfo faith that this country of old was called Cornana, but the reafon thereof he
giveth not.

The Earls of Caithnefs were among the anciented in Scotlaitd, and in former times
have been very potent in this corner, as appears by the feveral old caflles and places of
(Irength, which then they were in poffeffion of, but now their memory is almod extinft.
The late Earl George dying without iflue, the Laird of Glenorchy, now Earl of Bread-
albane married ihe dowager, who having purchafed the Earl*s eftate, the apparent heir
judging himfelf thereby injured, did gather together fome of the country people to re*
■ -^r his right, but was defeated by Glenorchy ; from the field they went to the bar,
^ > ' Jebated the matter there, whereupon the Lords gave forth this fentence, that Glen-
' :iiy ihould enjoy the edate, but the heir ihould have the honours, and an aliment aU
lowed him by Glenorchy during his life. The heir having died about a year ago, the
heirefs his Alter fucceeds to the honours, and is in a very mean condition ; living in a
place where the former Earls u fed to keep their hawks. So to. this ancient and ho>
nourable family of the Earls of Caithnefs, there is almod put in holy providencea period
&iiu cicfc : they who had four great houfes in this country like palaces for pleafure and
convenience, and caftles for ftrength, now irv their heirs enjoy none of them, three are
ruinous, and one is poflefled by a Aranger: as likewife there are feveral other ruinous
houfes to be feen here, who have fpued out their poiTeiTors, fo confirming that com-
mon obfervation, ** That fin committed by the inhabitants, is as gun-powder laid to the
foundations of their houfes, which quickly overtumeth them, when it pleafeth a righte*
ous God to fire the train."

The late Earls of Caithnefs were of the name of Sinclair, of which name alfo are
many gentlemen of the country, who have bought confiderable parts of the Earl's eftate,
fi-om the Earl of Breadalbane : before the Sinclairs, the Earls were of the name of
Shine, and before them were the Haralds, and before the Haralds were the Olas as the
tradition goeth ; concenuing which, and the manner of their fucceflion and the interrup>
tion made therein, the country talk feveral things which I fhall not trouble my reader
with : only I (hall obferv? what is rebted by Camden a judicious antiquary, ** That of
old the Earls of Caithnefs were the fame with the Earls of Oirkney, but at length were
divided, the eldeft daughter of one Mulallus being given in marriage to William de S.
Ciaro, vulgo Sinclair, the King's pantler, his pofterity had this honour conferred on them,
of being Earls of Caithnefs."

The country is pleafant and very fertile, abounding withgrafs and com, hence yearly
there is a great quantity of viftual evoorted, zsanno 1695, there were 16,000 bolls em»
barked and taken out, for which c ^ it is much frequented by barks from the firth,

Clyde,^

*i-

':!l

In) :

8i>6

brand's description of ORKNEY,

Clyde, and other places ; for ordinarily when there is no fcarcity or dearth, the meal is
Ibid here at three or four or at mofl: fivo n.erks per boll i he cattle and fi(h alfo arc to
be had very cheap, as good kine often in the fhamblcs, fuch as the country doth aiford,
for thj'ec or four ihillings flerling, and fonietimes they fay for two ; fo that as I have
heard, fome of the more intelligent inliabitants obferve that here is the cheaped market
in the world : and the gentlemen can live better upon looo nierks, than they can do iu
the fouth upon 4CC0 f>cr annum., who may improve their (locks to as great if not a grcMter
advantage, than in 5 other place in Scotland, for tl.cy may fave their rents, havuig
within tlicmlelves what provifion is ncceflary for iheir table, and may fell out much
ftore every year, what to the inhabitants in the country tor their own ufe, or for fallii'g
and fending abroad, and what to drovers who take ihem fouth : and it is obl'ervable that
if any buy a piece of i;.nd, only what is arable is accounted for, as for nhat fervcth for
pafture, they ufe not to take notice of, though upoi» that confideralion they may value
tl eir acres at a greater rate. !n the way between 'I'hurfo and Duiniot, we faw much
low ground overblown with fand, for two miles back from the fca, which formerly not
many years iiace was a plcafant m ;.idow.

There are ten pariflies in this country, five of which can be fervcd with minifters not
having the Irifn language, few of the people there fpoaking it, but the other live cannot
be iupplicd otheruile than by minillLrs uiiderflanding Irifh ; in fomo of thele parilhes
there being very few who have any knov\ lodge of our language, and fome of the mini-
fters are obliged to preach both in Engliflj and Irifli for the edification of all : fome of
the pariftiesare very wide and populous, which tends to the incrcafe of ignorance among
many, the minifters not being able 10 overtake their work ; fome chuiclie^ alio are ruin-
ous, for when heritors are not friends to the work of God, or cannnt agree among them-
felvcs, as to the concerting of iuitable nieaiures, for putting or keeping things which
concern the parifh, in order ; it ufeth to go ill with minillers as to their external accom-
modation and v.ith churches as to their repair.

The two principal towns in the country are Wiok and Thurfo. Wick is a royal burgh,
r>n the eaft fide of the country waftjed by the German Ocean at the mouth of Murray
Firth, by the fide of r, nich runneth a fmall river, at the mouth of the river there Is a
harbour for boats or barks to iye in, which they come into at full fea, but this harbour
is not fo much frequented, as another about a mile to the north-eaft of Wick, where
they judge the boats do lie fafcr. Oppofite to Wick lies Thurfo at twelve miles dif«
tancc. on the weft fide of the country, which though it enjoy not the privilege of a
roval burgh, yet it is more popuiuiis than Wick, and hath better buildings in it ; by the
t'ait fide of the town runneth a fmall river called the \\^ater of Thurfo : they have the
bed church in the couiury, well lurniflied and kept in good order.

in the water of Thurfu there is good falmon hlhiiic,, which they take two ways, one
is by crues or creels with croflld or barred doors going from tlie one fide of the water
ro the other, lo tramrd tl 't they luffer the fillies to go but not to go out, out of
tx'hich fometines they v ill take feveral horfis burdens of tifti. The other v/ny thev take
them is by a net, wherewith they lifii a poo', which lieth a little Ix'Iow the crues, and is
about a pair of butts in length : tHfcV having fpread the net upon the bank, which is
long enough to reach the breadth of- the water, they go in with it, and one man on each
iide drawing it down the pool, it is followed with eighteen or twenty men, going m a
bread behind it, with lone, ilave;; or poIcs in tluir hands j wherewith they keep the net
to the ground, and loofc it when any way entangled ; the pool in Come places will rife to
the height of the bread oi the waders, but there is no danger. So they bring down the
/iPt fofiiy and warily :o the mouth of an endofue, which they call a Stem, into which

cry:

ZETLAND, PlOHTLAND-riRTH, AND CAITHNESS.

807

the fiflies are driven, where the fifhers {landing with this larger net, others lake a leffer
net and going therewith into the Stem, catch the fiflies fo enclofed, that fcarce one can
«'."cape, for up the water they cannot run, becaufe of the larger net, and neither down can .
they go, becaufe of the Stem, or ftones laid" together in form of a wall. We faw as we
could conjefturc at one draught upwards of three hundred good falmons taken, and thefe
who have this fifliing told us that three years ago, they took five hundred at a draught,
and going through the pool at the fame time with the net again, they caught other two
hundred, which falmon for the mod part they fait in barrels and fend abroad. It is alfo
to be obfcrved that ihc falmoa keep this water of Thurfo all the year over, and in the
winter feafon in frofl and fnow if you break the ice, they are to be had. The pool
is but about half a mile up the water from Thurfo.

There are fevcral watt rs or rivers in the country as Thurfo, Wick, Dumbeth, Rice,
Force, and Beradel, but they arc all fmull, and indeed there is no great river all the way
from Caithnefs, till we come to Nefs running by Invernefs in Murray, over which is a
ftrong bridge lately built confifting of fcvcn arches ; which river is r^^markable for this
that it never freczeth, though the frofl bo moft vehement, yea if then you bring a horfe
unto the river, the icicles will melt at his feet in the fpace of time that he is drinking :
the river cometh from a loch called Lochnefs, which alfo hath the fame property, four
or five miles to the weft of Invernefs. This river I make mention of though not in Caith-
nefs, it being the firft confidcrable one, having any thing of a ftrong and regular bridge,,
which we paffed in our return.

There are fome trees here, but they are not fo oig as thefe which are further fouth,
even in Sutherland, particularly upon the water of Beradel, there is a pleafant ftrath
full of fmall wood. And there is a garden three or four miles to the fouth-weft of
Thurfo very pleafant and well furnilhed with fruit trees, much comn.jnded by the in-
habitants.

'J he rocks by the coafts arc much frequented by fowls of various kinds, as eagles,
hawks, &c. fuch as in Orkney and Zetland, of which rocks there are long trafts ; for
whereas in Sutherland, Rofs, and Murray, the fca for the moft part is bounded with the
fand, here it is bounded wiih the rocks, which it waflv^th and beatcth on, and that al-
pioft round Caithnefs from the Ord to Dungiftiy-head on the paft, and fo by Dunnot-
Head, and Iloburn Head to Stranaver on the weft, except a few creeks or bays, feveraU
of which are very convenient for anchoring ; efpetially in Scribiftcr Bay, a little to the-
north-weft of Thurfo, there is a good anchoring ground, vvhere (liips may fafely ride-
without the fear of hazard by wind or tide, the capes of land there making a ftill fea,
and defcruiing the (liips, which, as it were, flee into their arms from raging and angry-
Pightland Firth : there are here alfo fome rocks lying a little oft" the land, from which
they ire broken and disjoined, w hich tht y call Clets, the fame with the holms in Orkney
and Zetland ; thefe clets pre almoft covered with fca-fowls. One way they take thefe
fow lb is pleafant, though with great danp;er ; they take a line, upon the end of which they
fallen foinefifti hcukt;, above the hooks there is alfo a pock faftened, and fo from the top;
c f the rock, they let down the line thus furnilhed with pock and hooks, ftriking the headS;
of the young fowls in their nefts with the pock, upon which the fowls do all gape and
cry ; as if it were their dame coming with meat to them, and fo lifting the line they let
the hooks lall into their mouths, which taking hold of the fowls, they become their-

There are likewife fevcral caves going from the fea within the rocks, in which the
waves make a dreadful noife, fuch caves we had occafion to take notice of in our dif-
(oyrfe upon Orkney and Zetland..
, . Efpecially.

8o8

BKANUS DESCRIPTION OF ORKNEY,

Efpecially there is a kind of fowls called Snowfledd, which refort to this country in
great numbers in"" February ; they are about the bignefs of a fparrow, but exceeding
fat and delicious ; they fly in flocks, thoufands of them together, many of which the in-
habitants do kill and make ufe of. 'I'hey ufe to go away in April, and arc thought to
come from the Weft Highlands. They have alfo a p»-oat plenty of moorfowls, plovers^
as much if not more than in any place of Scotland.

The induftry of the gentlemen here is to be much commended, for although from
Wick to Dumbeth which is twelve miles lonf^, there be no harbour or bay, but a con-
tinued traft of ragged, hard and iron-like rocks waflied by the fea, yet there are feveral
harbours forced there by art, though denied by nature, and paflages in many places like
fleps of ftairs made from the top of the rock to the bottom, where their fifh-boats do lie,
and by paflages do bring their fiflies up to the top of the rocks, where they fait and dry
thenn in houfes made for the puj-pofe, whereby great gain doth redound to the owners,
fome making as much by their fifhes, as they do by their land-rent.

As in Orkrey and Zetland there were feveral old chapels, which fuperftitious zealots
did frequent, fo it is likewife in Caithnefs ; the minifters told me there is one in Dunnot
parifli, beftde which there are about fixty heaps of Itones, which the people coming to,
fake with them a ftone and throw it into the heap, bowing themfelves alfo thereunto.
Nigh to it iikewife there is a loch called St. John's Loch, concerning which there goes a
fabulous tradition, that on St. Stephen's Day there was a pleafant meadow in that place,
where now the loch is, and on St. John's Day thereafter, it was turned into this loch.
There is alfo another in the parifli of Rhae, to which fome take their children if they be
in diftrefs, and make two graves at the fide of one another laying the child be-
tween them, and fo they try if the child will recover ; but the way how they know, I
forbear to mention. But they fay there is a chapel in the parifli of Konneibie, the north-
emmoft parifli of all this country, oppoflte to Orkney, which is yet more frequented
than any of the former, which fome wildly fuperftitious frequent on fome day about
Candlemafs, going about it on their bare knees, and thence going to a water, they caft
fome of it in handfuls over their heads, and from the water to an alehoufe, where they
ufe to fill themfelves drunk; and when going to thefe,orat them, they can fcarce, even
though threatened, be prevailed with to fpeak. To which helliOi rites fome are fo ad-
dided that the minifters judge it next to impoflible, to get their weaned and brought
therefrom : but the vigilancy and pains of minifters efpedaliy of late, bath through the
blefllng of God not been altogether without fuccefs. Which old chapels both here and
in Oh4Lney and Zetland, 1 think the government fliould caufe to be rafed, which might
prove as the taking away of the neft egg.

The Earls of Caithnefs, as hinted at before, had feveral ftrong and convenient dwell-
ings. One about a ftiort half mile from Thurfo, called 1 hurfo by Eaft, now ruinous j
it nath been built in the form of a court, and the gates have been decorated with cut
ftone work, and the gardens, avenues and oflice houfes have been co..form to the fpKn-
<lour of the houfe. An honeft country n^an obferving the many great fins that had been
committed about that houfe, is faid to have predicted to one of the late Earls 'ts ruin
and defolation, faying, ** '1 hat the cup of fin was filling, and this houfe would fliortly
become a den of dragons, (ufin? the fcripture phrafe) and feeing there are no fuch crea-
ture among us, it (hall be of foxes :" and accordingly it was obferved that a fox haunt*
ed it when ruinous a few years after, which ftayed there till about nine or ten years ago,
when a part of the houfe was repaired. This I bad from one of the minifters of the
country, and another minifter told me that before he bore this chara^cr, he frequently
ihot nDbiti there, within the walls of the houfe.

There

I5ETLAND, PIGHTLAND-l'IRTW, AND CAlTimrss,

809

There are alfo other four ciPiIos upon one bay, on the eaft fide of the country inph
to Wick, which belonged to ihcfe Karlp. The bay is called Rice-Bay, and is two 01:
throe miles broad, the entry w hereof ia to the taft, but dangerous fnrfliip? to covm into,
becaufe of iho n\iny blind rocks that lie therein ; upon the fouth fide of tho Iwy next to
Wick have been tv\o (Irong cadles, joined to one another by a draw bridge, culled
Cadle Sinclair, and Oirnego, the former hath been the ilrongoll hoiife, bur the latter
the}' ordinarily had thdr dwcllirg in ; their fituation is upon a rock disjoined from thi
lanJ, environed for the mnil pait with the fea, to which callles from the land they palled
alio by a brid)»,e which was drawn up e*-\'ry n'ght, whence there was no accefs to them.
K found the year of God upon the lintle of a window in CalUc Sinclair to be 1607 ;
which hath been the y^ar whertin this caftle was buiU, or at leaft repaired. Some ac-
count^liefe two rallies to be but one, becaufe of their vicinity. Tiiey fay, tliere Vv-as
much fin commiited here, as drunkeimefs, uncleanntfs, 8ic. For which a righteous
CoJ hath turned them into a luinous heap. Oppofite to Caille Sinclair, an.l Girnego,
on the other fide- of the bay is Kice another caille, but alfo ruinous. On t'ie weit fide
of the bay is the caflle ot llakergil, a (Irong houfe, at prefcnt pofTcfTed by a gentleman,
who hath a great intcrefl in the country, but is not defcended of the family of Caithnefs.
There arc alfo the ru'ns of the old caille of Beradel to be feen, fituated on a rock near
to the fea, at the mouth of a river of that name, to which alfo they have parted from the
land by a draw-bridi;e: fuch naturally ilrong fituations for their houiVs they fought out
of old, that they tnij^ht be the more fecure, and fafe from all violence, nature as well as
art contributing to their fortification.

About a fliort half mile to the weft of Thurfn are the ruins of an old caflle, where the
bifhop in the firfl times of Popery is faid to have had his refidence, particularly there was
one Adam, faid to be laft bifhop who lived in that houfe, who having greatly oppreffed
the people by his rigourous exading of the tithes ; the people complained tliereof to the
F.ari, who is laid in pafTion to have anfwered them, " Go and feethe him, and fup him
too if you pleafe," whereupon they went to the bifliop's lodging and apprehended him,
and fetting his houfe on fire, they adually boiled him and fupped olf the broth : which
being known, enquiry was made for the barbarous aftors of this tragedy ; and being
apprehended were put to death, fo '^ ring condign punifhment for this horrid villainy.
And this Earl is not the only the eat perfon who hath given forth an inconfiderate
fp"'.t.r.cc, upon which barbarous and inhuman a6\ions have enfued. Buchanan writetli
i...sto have been about the year 1222 in the days of Alexander II. King ol Scots; and
faith only, " That they having killed the monk who attended him and his fervant, they
wounded himfelf, and drawing him to the kitchen, they fct the houfe on fir • about
him." A little to the weft of this, is the houfe of Screbifter the refidence of the late
Lifliops, where I think their lordlhips had but a mean accommodation ; the- revenues of
the bifhoprick here arc among the fmalleft in Scotland, which they report tlius came to
pafs, one of the bithops at the reformation fold the church's revenues far below their
value [fome fay at thirteen fliilling Scots per boll,] to the Earl, knowing that but for a
fhorttune he could enjoy the fame.

I here h a hill in the parifli of Wick called Stony-Hill, the reafon of which denomi-
nation is faid to be this ; in the days of William King of Scots 1 199, as Hixhanan h.\ih it,
there was one HaraldEarl of Orkney and Caithnefs, who being oflendevi at the bilhop,
as having iiifinuated fomething to the King againft him, appreheiuled the bifhop, cut-
ting out his tongue and putting out his eyes, which being reprefented to the King, he
fent his forces into Caithnefs, and having defeated tho Earl in feveral engagements, the
Earl flying was purfucd, and being apprehended, his eyes were firli put out, and then he

VOL. rii. 5 1. was

8io

brand's description Of ORKNF.V, kc.

was hang.'d, nnd all his male children \v«rc cmafculuteJ upon this hill, which ever fince
hi'th heen called Stony-hill.

They told us, there are feveral high great Hones fct up throu'^h the country and that
ordinarily on hills, about wliich are the rubbilli ot other (Ijncs, which have lerved for
Ibiiu'end there, and probibly have been place;, oi I'a;:^an WDrfhip, as we oblerved upon
Orkney in the parifli of Hower, us we pail'ed, we law an artificial mount ditched about
of a fiiiall ciicumierence, it is like for the fanu purpofe. They have likewil'e the tradi-
tion of fome Pifts lioufes, which have been here of old, tin; nibbii'h whereof is yet to bt?
feen in the parifli of Latheran, as a j^entleuKm well acquainted with the country did in-
form me.

In the parifli of Latheran we faw the fouiidatiiin of a lioufe I'ald to be laid by a biflard
foil of the Earl of Caiihnefs, but never periedcd : it is founded upon a riiiiiif ground
nigh to tlie fea, where there is a fair prolpedof Murray, where it is reported the geride-
man had his miflrefs, who intended to build it ihere, that fo file might have a view of
thehoufe from Murray, and he at the houfe inii:ht lee Murray.

Dunnot Head flretching out into l*i.;htland- Firth, is about a mile in breadth, and
feven miles in circumference, in it are feveral Kichs, and fome good palhire for cattle,
but no inhabitants ; in it are to be had good mill-ftones, and it is thought there is a lead-
mine there. In feveral places in the parifli of Dunnot there will no rats live, and if
earth be brought out thence to other places moleflcd by them, they will be quickly gone.

The Ord which divideth Caithnefs from Sutherland, is a high mountain, as the name
Ord, which in Irifli fignifieth an height, doth iinply ; down which our way from Caith-
nefs to Sutherland doth lie, the road is but narrow, and the defcent fteep, and if any
Humble thereupon, they are in hazard of falling down a precipice into the lea at the bot-
tom of the rock, which is very terrible to behold, but who pafs it, for the more fecurity
ufe to lead their horfes to the foot of the hill, which is about a (iinrt mile in length ;
and no other way there is from Sutherland to Caithnefs, or from Caithnefs to Sutherland
but this, except we go twelve miles about, but it might be made broader and fafer with
fmall expence.

It is obfervcd in Caithnefs as an infaUiblc fign almoft when they fee a niirt: or cloud
lying down upon the foot of the hills, that then a drought will follow ; but if fuch a mill
or cliiud be on top thereof.^ they thence certainly conclude there will be rain that day.

In the parifli of Halkirk there is ^ loch [^as therj are feveral lochs in the country],
within which loch are the ruins of an old houfe built, they fay, by robbers, that they
might be the more faf ' and fecure from the fears of being apprehended. That which is
molt obfervable concerning th!s houfe, is, tliat there is not one foot of more ground,
than what is within the circumference of the foundation, and upon which it Itaiideth,
hence eitiier the water of the loch hath wiflied away the prominent rock, if there hath
been any through wailing time, or if there was no part ot the rock without the circum-
ferei.ce of the foundation, it is wonderful to conliiler, how fo nigh to the water thj
foundation hath been got laid, the water about the houf: being ot a confidorabie ilepili,
and the extreme parts of the rock upon whicli the foundation ibtndetli, not to give way
and fail under the weight of the builJing, which thofe who have iuvn this houfe, are iur-
prized at. Upon the loch they hive boats which come dole tn the walls o the hovifc,
for the taking ot fowls of divers kinds, as maws, herons, &c. levcral thoufands of which
do Irtcjuciu it, having their neils in the ruinous walls.

J TOUR

( 8ii )

m
A TOUR IN IRELAND ;

WITH ': •

GENERAL 0DSERVATI0N3 ON THE PRESENT STATE OF THAT KINGDOM:

MADE IN

THE YEARS 1776, 1777, and 1778,

AND URCiUCIIT DOWN TO THE END OF I'TJ-

Br ARTHUR roUNG, Es!f>. KR.S.

Honorary Mmhcr of tlie Socicti v\ of Dulilin, York, aiu\ Manclicllcr ; ilie Qiiioniical Society of Berne j
the Palatine Acadcm) of Agriculture at Maiihciin j and the Phyfical Society at Zurich *.

JUNE ig, 1776, arrived at Holyhead, after an inflrutSive journey through a part of
England and Wales I had net feen before. Found the packet, the Claremont,
Captcun Taylor, would fail very fjon. After a tedious pallage of twenty-two hours,
landed on the twentieth, in the morning, at Dunlary, four miles from Dublin, a city
which much exceeded my expedation ; the public buikiings are magnificent, very many
of the flreets regularly laid out, and exceedingly well built. The front of the parlia-
ment-houfe is grand, though not fo light as a more open finifliing of the roof would
have made it. The apartments arc Ipacious, elegant, and convenient, much beyond
that heap of confufion at Weftminlter, fo inferior to the magnificence to be looked for
in the feat of empire. I was fo fortunate as to arrive juft in time to fee Lord Harcourt,
with the ufual ceremonies, prorogue the paHiament. Trinity college is a beautiful
building, and a numerous focicty ; the library is a very fine room, and well filled. The
new exchange will be another edifice to do lionour to Ireland ; it is elegant, cofl forty
thoiifand pounds, but dclcrves a better fituation. I'rom every thing I law, I wasflruck
with all thofe appearances of wealth vliich the capital of a thriving community may be
fuppofcd to exhibit. Happy if I find through the country in diffufed profperity the
right fource of this fplendor ! The common computation of inhabitants 2oo,o;.o, but I^
fliouid fuppofe exaggerated: others guefl'ed the number 140 or 150,000.

Ji:ne 2 1, introduced by Colonel Burton to the Lord Lieutenant, who was plcafed to
enter into converfation with me on my intended journey, made many remarks on the
agriculture of feveral Irilh counties, and fliewed himfelf to bean excellent farmer, par-
ticularly in draining. Viewed the Duke of L' initer's houfe, which is a very large itune
edifice, the front fiiiiple but elegant, the pediment light, thero arc feveral good rooms;
but a circumllance unrivalled is the court, which is fpacious and magnificent, the open-
ing behind the houfe is alfo beautiful. In the evening to the Rotunda, a cir.u'.ar room,
ninety feet diameter, an imitation of Raiiel.igh, provided with a band of mufic.

The barracks are a vail building, railed iu a plain llile, of luany divifions, the prin-
cipal front is ot an immeiife len:!,th : they contain every convenience for ten regiments.

June 23. Lord Charlemont's houfe in Dublin is equally elegant and convenient, the
sparlments large, haaafome, and well difpofed, containing louic good pictures, parti-

• The .ign'cultural details are omitted.
5 L 2

culafly

■ ■

ill

'til

8l3

young's Tour ih irei.aVd.

cularly one by Rcmbranilt, of Judas throwing the money on the floor, with a ftrong
cxprcflion of guilt and reniorfe ; the whole group fine. In the fame room is a portrait
of C«fiir Borgia, by 'I itian. 'J'he library is a mod elegant apartment of about forty by
thirty, and of iiich a height as to form a pleafmg proportion, the light is well managed,
coming in fn)m the cove of the ceiling, and has an exceeding good eftcft ; at one end is
a pretty anti-room, with a fine copy of the Venus de Medicis, and at the other two
fmall rooms, one a cabinet of pidures and antiquities, the other medals. In the cul-
le£lion alio of Robert Fitzgerald, Efq., in Merion-fquare, are feveral pieces which very
well deferve a traveller's attention ; it was the bell i law in Dublin. Before I quit that
city I obft rve, on the houfes in general, that what they call (heir two-foomed ones are
good and convenient. Mr. Latouche's, in Stephen's Green, I was fliewn as a model
of this fort, and I found it well contrived, and finilhed elegantly. Drove to Lord
Charleniont's villa at Marino, near the city, where his.iordfhip has formed a pleafing
lawn, margined in the higher part by a well-planted thriving Ihrubbery, and on a rifing
ground a banqucting-room, which ranks very high among the mod beautiful edifices I
have any where feen ; it has mucli elegance, lightnefs, and ell'ec^, and commands a fine
profpc£t ; the rifing ground on which it ftands (lopes off to an agreeable accom]: iny-
ment of wood, beyond which on one fide is Dublin h.nboar, which here has ihc appv-ar*
ance of a noble river crowded with Ihips moving to and from the capital. On the other
fid« is a ftiore fpotted with white buildings, and beyond it the hills of Wicklow, pre-
fenting an outline extremely various. The other part of ^lie view (it would be more
perfca if the city was planted out) is varied, in fome places nothing but wood, in others
breaks of profpcd. 'I'he lawn, which isextenfive, is new grafs, and appears to be ex-
cellently laid down, the herbage a fine crop of white clover Qrifoliuni rcpcns), trefoil,
rib-grafs {phmtage lancealata), and other good plants. Returned to Dublin, and made
inquiries into other points, the prices of provifions, &c. (for which fee the tables at the
end of the book). The expences of a *amily in proportion to thofe of London are, as
five to eight.

Having the year following lived more than two mont!is in Dublin, I am able tofpeak
to a few points, which as a mere traveller I could not have done. The information I
before received of the prices of living is correft. Fifh and poultry are plentiful and
very cheap. Good lodgings almoft as dear as they are in London ; though we were
veil accommodatt d ^dirt excepted) for two guineas and an half a week. All the lower
ranks in this city have no id. a of Kngiilh ckanlinefs, either in apartments, perfons, or
cookery. There is a very good Cociety in Dublin in a parliaint nt winter : a great round
of dinners and parties ; and bal!s and (uppers every night in the week, fome of which
are very elega:it ; but you ahnolt every where meet a company much too numerous
for the fize of the apartments. 'J hty have two alfemblies on the plan of thole of Lon-
don, in Filhainble-ftruet, and ar the Rotunda; and two gentlemen's clubs, Anthry's
and D<dy's, very well regulated : 1 heard fonie anecdotes of deep play at the latter,
though never to the exctfs cnmtnon at London. An ill judged and unluccefsful at-
tempt was mad'" to eftiblifi) the Italian opera, which cxilted but with fcarcely any life
for this on'.' winur"^ of courfe i hey could rifi- no higher 'han a conlic one. La Buona
Figliuola, la Frafcatana, ami il (ii. lof'o in Cimento, were repeatedly performed, or ratlier
murdered, except the parts of Sdlini. '1 he houfe was generally empty, and miferably
cold. So inucii knowledge of the (late of a cnuritry is gained by hearing the debates
of a parliament, that 1 often frequented the gallery of the Houleof Cotiinions. Since
Mr Flood has I een (ilenccd with the vice-treafurcrlhip of Ireland, Mr. Daly, Mr.Grattan,
Sir William (Jfborn, and the piiinc ferjeant Burgh, arc reckoned hi^h among the Irifh

7 orators.

YOUNo'a TOOR IN IRELAND.

8'3

orators. I heard many very eloquent fpccchcsf but I cannot fay they flruck mc liko
the exertion of the abihtics of Iriflimcn in the Englifli lloufe of Commons, owing per-
haps to the rtflertion both on the fpeakcr and auditor, that the attorney-general of Eng-
land, with a dafl) of his pen, can rt-vcrfe, alter, or entirely do away the matured refuU
of all the eloquence, and all the abiliiics of this whole aflembly. Before I conclude
with Dublin 1 Ihall only remark, that walking in the ftrccts there, from the narrownefs
and populoufnefs of the principal thoroughfares, as well as from the dirt and wretched-
ncfs of the caniiillc, is a mod uneafy and dil'gufling exercife.

June 24, left Dublin and palfed through the Phoinix park, a very pleafing ground,
at the bottom of which, to the left, the Liffey forms a variety of landfcapcs : this is the
molt beautiful environ of Dublin. Take the road to Luttrell's-town through a various
fcenery on the banks of the river. That domain is a confidcrablo one in extent, being
above four hundred acies within the wall, Irifli meafure ; in the front of the houfe is a
fine lawn bounded by rich woods, through which arc niany ridings, four miles in ex-
tent. From the road towards the houfe they lead through a very hne glen, by the fide
of a flream falling over a rocky bed, through tlie dark woods, with great variety on
the fides ot fteep flopes, at the bottom ( f which the Liffuy is either heard or feen in-
didindly ; thefe woods aro of gnat extent, and fo near the capital, form a retirement
exceedingly beautiful. Lord Irnhanj and Colonel Luttrel have brought in the aflill:-
ance of agriculture to adii 1 ■ the be.iuties of the place, they have kf'pt a part of the
lands in cultivation in order to lay tli' m down the better to grafs ; one hundred and fifty
acres have been done, and above two hundred acres molt tfieftu-dly drained in the
covered manner filled with ftones. Thefe works are well executed. The drains are
alfo made under the roads in all wet places, with lateral fiiort ones to take off the water
indead of leaving it, as is common, 10 foak againd the caufeway, which is an excellent
method. Great ule has been made of lime-llone gravel in the improvements, the effedt
of which is fo confiderablc, that in leveral Ipots where it was laid on ten years ago, the
fuperiority of the gials is now fiiiiilar to what one would exped from a frelh dunging.

Leaving Luttrel's town I went to St. Wolftan's, which Lord Ilarcourt had been fo
obliging as to defire I woulJ make my quarters, from whence to view to the right or
lelt.

June 35, to Mr. Clement's, at Killadoon, who has lately built an excellent houfe,
and planted much about it, with the fatisfadion of finding that all his trees thrive well ;,
I remarked the beech and larch feemed to get beyond the red. He is alio a good
farmer.

June 26, brcakfafled with Colonel Marlay, at Cellbridge, found he had praftifed
hidbandry with much fuccefs, and given reat attention to it from the pe.ice of 1763,
which put a period to a gallant fcene ot fervice in Germany; walki .1 through his
grounds, which I Found in general very well cultivated; his fences excel'ent; his ditches
five by fix, and feven by fix ; the banks well made, and planted with quicks ; the bor-
ders dug away, covered with lime till perfeftly flacked, then mixed with duig and car-
ried into the fields ; a practice which Mr. Marlay has found of very gnat benefit.

Viewed Lucan, the feat of Agmondilham Veley, Lfq. on the banks of the Liffey ; thi;
houfe is rebuildiniL', but the wood on the river, with walks through it, is exceedingly
beautiful. The cliarafter of the place is that of a lequeitered (hade. Diltant views are
evi ry where (hut out, and the objec>s all correlpond perfectly with the imprt 'urn they
Were deligned to raile : it is a walk on the banks of the river, chiefly under a variety of
fine wood, which rilts on varied flopes, in foine parts gentle, in others ileep ; Ipi eading
here and there iuto cool meadowb, on the oppofue Ihore, rich banks of wood or lluubby

giuuud.

1 li

.fi

M-r

ii!

-L!

|f^ VniTNO's TOUR IN IRELAND.

ground. The walk is pcrfedly foqvi(*(lcn.'d, ami has that melancholy fhom 'A-hkh
fhoulil ever dwfll in liuli a plan-, 'i he rivfr is ot a charudiT pcifcdly lui'od to ihc
rell ot the rccncry, in loino pi.iccs breaking over rock.*, in other fiii'tit, im lor thf> thirk
Ih.ide of IpriMditig wood, l^'aviiij; I.ucan, tho next place is Leixlip, a Cum' ono, on the
nver, with a lidl, > hich in a w<t tialon is tonfidorablc. Tht'H St. Wolllan's, l)l•!onJ;in^^
to the Dean ot 1) rry, a l)L'auiitul villa, which is ;ilio on the river; tho uroinuis gay
and opi'ii, t!uni]i;h not without theadvaiitaj;e of nuich wood, ilifpof, d with jiulf';infnt. A
winding Ihnihbcry quits the river, and is made to lead through feme drelfed ground
that is pn-f:y and cheiirfid.

Mr. C< olly's, at CalUe-town, to which all travellers rcfort, is the fiMffl houfe in
Irelanvl, and noi excet-Jcd by many in Kiiglanii ; it is a lari'/- haiidfoini" edifice, fituatcd
in the niid''lcof an extenfive lawn, v^hich is quite furrounded with fine pi mtatioius dif-
pofod to t! i" bell advantage : to the north thde unite into very large woods, through
which many winding walks lead, with the convenience of fevetal ornaiiieiited lats,
rooiijs, &c On the othir lide of the houfe, upon the river, is a cottage, with a (Iirub-
bery, prettily laid out ; the houfe cotnmands an extenfive view, bounded by the Wick-
low uiount;iins. It confills of feveral nolde apartments. Oa the firil tioor is a beautiful
gallery, cightv feet long, elegantly filtod up.

June 27, left Lt)rd Harcourt's, and having received an invitation from the Duke of
Lcinller, pafled through Mr. Conolly's grounds to his Cirace's le.t at Cartown ; the
park ranks among the fined in Ireland. It is a vail lawii, which waves over gentle
hills, furrounded by plantations of great extent, ;ind vvhicii br-ak a:ul divide in places
lb as to give much varietv. A large but gentle vale winds thnnigh the whole, in the
bottom of vhich a fmall llream has been enlarged into a liii • river, which thnu>s a
chearfulnels thrnugh moll of the Iceiies : over it a handfnme llone-bridee. Iher is a
great varitty on the banks of this vale ; part of it confii's of mild and gentle flopes,
part deep batiks id thick wood ; in another pi. ice they are formed into a large fhrub-
bcry, very elegantly l.id out, and drelled in the higbed ordir, with a cot:age, the fceiiery
about ^^hich is uncommonly phafing : and farti er on this vale takes a flronger clia-
rader, having a rocky bank on one fide, and do p il^pcs fcattercil irregularly, with
wood on the other. On one ot the moll riling giouiuls m the* |vuk is a tower, tiuui
the top of which the whole fcenery is beheld ; the park Ipreads on every fide in fine
(heets of lawn, kept in the hi['li>(l order by clcv( 11 hundred llie^'p, fcattereil over with
rich plantations, and bounded by a large margin of wood, tiirough which is a riding.

Irom hence took the road to Summerhiil, the leat of the Right U>n\. II. L. Rowley:
the country is ciiearful and rich ; aiid d the IrilTi cabins c.-ntinue like wli.it I have hi-
therto feen, I Ihdl not helitate to pronounce their iidi.ibitants as .veil oil" as moil Knglifh
cottagers. 1 hey are built of mud walls eighteen iuihts or two feet thick, and well
thatcntd, wliieh are f.ir wai mer than the thin elay w^l's in I'ngland. Here are few
cottars without a cow, and ionie of tlicm two. A belly lull invaiia ly of pot. noes, and
generady turf for fuel from a bog. It is true they have not always chimiuvs to thir
cabins, the door l-Tving for that and window too; if their eyes are nut .ill'cled with
the fii.oke, it may be an advantage in wannili. Kvery cottage fwanns with poultry,
and moil of them have pigs.

Went in the eveidng to I.onl Mornington's at Dangan, who is making many ini-
proveinenls, which he (hewed ine : his pianraiioi s arc e.\enfive, and he h.is fcnned a
large Wiiter, having five or fix ifiands much varied, a:iil prouujutories of iii^h l.md
fli(.ot fo far into it as to form altnoll dillant lakes ; the elKcl: pleafing. '1 here are above
a hundred acres under water, and his Lordlliip has planned a coulidcrable addition t.)
it. Ruiurned to i)umincnull.

6 June

YOUNo'a TOUR IN IRELAND. tig

Juno aofJi, If ft 'N tiiklnp; tlv mil to Slainc, the country very pleafant all the way ;
much of it oil thf l)a»iks cf ihi- lioMio, variejratpj with loiiu' wnoJs, plaMtcil IirJgc-
rows, atul jfciitlc hills : tlir cabhinh ctmtiiMie much thi* fame, &c fainc pi "iitv ot pou'try,
pi,i;s, a.i I ciuvs. 'I'lic catili- in ihf roaJ h ivo their fore legs all iieJ togth-r with ilraw
to kap i!um from Invakiiig into the fitldsi ; cvtii Hiecp, uiul pigs, and goats are all in
the faiii" boiula;^e.

Lord (.;<inyiu' ham's ieat, S'-ii'M- Cafllo, on the B'^ync, is one of Pho mofl: biuitiful
places I hive iVon ; liir crouihls ar, kitv h< Kl and various, riling around the ra I • in
no ■'le hiliti or biautifui ini qualiiiLS oJ, furi'.ici', wilh an ourline ol ti lurifhing plau'aticns.
Un 1 'r the cuflle flows the IJoyne in ;i reach hrok'-n by iiluuls, with a very fi le Ihore
of roc'c on one lide, and wood nii th.-othc-r. Through the lower planta'ions are ridingy,
wliich look upon lev. i.d beaulit'ul (cenes formed ()y the river, and take ni the diilunt
country, cxhibitinu the noblell vi.v.s of waving CultinaKl hills, with the caltK' finely
fitnaled in the uiidlt ol tlij planted domain, through which the Boynj winds its Leauti-
ful coiufe.

Under Mr. Lambert's houfe, on the fame river, is a mod romantic and beautiful'fpot;
rocks on the (ide, rifing in peculiar forms very bol ly ; the olh.r lleep wood, the
river beiuling fliort befveiii them like a land locked bafon.

Lord Conyngham's keeping up Slaine Caflle, and fpendinjT great fump, though he
rarely refuios there, is an inl'ance of magMificence not often inet wiiL , whil;' it is fo
common for abfentees to drain the kingdom of every fliilling they ca;., 'o contrary a
conduv;^ ought to be held in the ellimation vviiich it juftly deferves.

June 3Clh, rod(; out to view the country and fome iinprc'-'tiunts in tho nci; iibour-
hood : the principal of vviiich are th.ol'e of lord (^hief Baro . 1 ^ ler, which 1 fi*,v from
Glalton hill, in the road from Slaine to Mundalk.

In coiiverfation with Lord Longfwid I made many inquiries concerning the Rate of
the lower clalVcs, and found that in fume relpects tht v were in good circumllances, iii
others indifferent ; they have, generally fp'-akiiig, fuch plen'y of potatoes as always to
command a bellyful ; they have ilux enough for all iheir liii/n, moll of them have a
cow, and fome two, and fpin wool enougli for their cloaths ; all a pip, and numbers
of poultry, and in general the complete family of cows, calves, hogs, poultry, and chil-
dren pig together in liic cabin ; fuel they have in the u moll plen-y ; great numbers
of tanu!i( s are alio fiijjport d by the ncigbnuring lakes, which abound prodigioufly with
fifli : a chi'd with a packthread and a crooked pin will catch perch enougli in an hour
tor the family to live on the whole ilay, and his LordH ip has ['n.'n live hundred children
fidiii'g at the fame lime, thei'e being no tenncioulnefs in the proprietors of the lands about
a right to the filh ; bifides perch, there is jk<.; upwards of five feet long, bieim,
tench, trout of ten pounds, and as red as I'aliuis., and line eels; all thefe are favour-
able circumllances, and are very conlpicuous in the numerous and inealthy families
anion^; them.

Rcverfe the medal : they are ill cloath \1, and make a wretched appearance, and what
is worfe, are mvich o|)|-reiTed by munv v. ho make them pay teo dear tor keeping a cow,
horle, cic. They ! ,.■ apraclicc alio of keepin;^ accounts with the labourers, contriv-
ing by that means to l,t iIk," poor wreirhes have very liuie cafh for their year's work,
llii.s is a great opprcllio:?, farircrs and gentlemen keepii'.g accounts with the poor is a
cruel abule : fo r.iany days woik for a cabin; Jo many for a potatoe garden ; lo ma..y
for keeping a horle, and tu many for a cow, are clear accounts whicli a poor man can
underflanil well, but faiilur it i ii.',lit never to go; and when he has worked ou; what
he has of ihib iort, tlie rdl of his wurk ou^lit punctuully to be piiid hau every Satur-
day

: ' i I

6i6

YOUNG S TOUR TN IRELANH.

day night. Another circum (lance mentioned was the cxcofTivii pra«^ice thoy have in
gencr.ll of pi I Ferine^. 'J'hey ftcal every thing tht-y can lay their hands on, and I fhould
remark, that this is an account which has been very generally given me : all lorts of
iron hinges, chains, locks, keys, &c. ; gates will be cut in pieces, and conveyed away
in many places as iaft as built ; trees as big -as a m^n's body, and that would require
ten men to move, ^;one in a night. Lord Longford h;\s had the new wheels of a car
ilolen as Coon as made. Good llcnes out of a wall will be taken for a fire-hearth, &c.
thiHigh a breach is made lo get at ihem. In Ihort, every thing, and even fuch as ara
; ]ii>arently of no ufc to them ; nor is it oafy to catch them, for they never carry their
'i^olei\ goods home, but to fome bog-hel.'. Turnips are flolen by car loads, and tmo
;icres of wheat pluckt olf in a night. In fiioit, their pilijring and ftculing is a perfect
nuifance ! How far it is cwing lo thj opprcllion of laws aimed folely at the religion of
thele people, how far to the conduct of the gentlemen and farmers, and how far to
the mi'chievous difpofition of the people ihemfelves, it is impoilible for a palling tra-
veller to afcertain. I am apt to believe that a better fyftom of law and management
would have good effi el.-. They are much worfe treated than the poor in England, are
talked to in more opprobrious terms, and otherwifo very much opprell'ed.

Left Packenhr.m-hall.

Two or three miles from Lord Longford's in the. way to Mullingar the road leads up
a mountain, and commands an exceeding fine view of Lttih Derrevaragh,anoblc water
eight mIKs long, and from two miles to half a mile over; a vafl reach of it, hke a
m; gnificcnt river, opens as you rife the bill. Afterwards I pafled under the principal
mountain, which riles abruptly from the lake into the boideit outline imaginable; the
water there is very beautiful, filling up the deep vale formed by this and the oppo-
fite hills.

Reached Mullingar.

It was one of the fair days. I faw many cows and hearts, and more horfes, with
fome wool : the cattle were of the fame breed that I had generally fecn in coming
through the country.

July 5, left Mullingar, which is a dirty ugly town, and taking the road to TuIIa-
more, flopped at Lord Belvidere's, with which place I was as much (truck as with any
I had ever feen. The houfe is perched on the crown of a very beautiful little hill, half
furrounded with others, variegated and melting into one another. It is one of the moll
fingular places that is any w here to be feen, and fpreading to the eye a beautiful lawn
of undulating ground margined with wood. Single trees are fcattered in fome places,
and clumps in others ; the general eflc-ft fo pleafing, that were there nothing Juriher,
•the place would be beautiful, but the canvas is admirably filled. Lake Ennel, many
miles in length, and two or three broad, flows beneath the windows. It is fpotted with
iflets, a pnnnontory of rock fringed with trees fhoots into it, and the whole is bounded
by didant hills. Greater and more magnificent fcenes are often met with, but no
where a more beautiful or a more fingular on'*.

I'Vom Mullingar to Tullefpace I found rents in general at twenty fliillings an acre,
with much relet at thirty (liillings, yet all the crops except bere were very bad, and fult
of weeds. About the latter na-ned place the farms are generally from one hundred to
three h.undred acres ; and their Cuurfe, I. Fallow. 2. 'iere. 3. Oats. 4. Oats. 5. Oats.
Great quantities of potatoes all the wjy, crops from forty to eighty barrels.

The road before it comes to Tullamore leads through a part of the bog of Allen,
which feemshere extenfive, and would make a noble tratl of meadow. The way the
Toad was nude over it was funply to cut a drain on each fide, and then lay on the gravel,

which.

YOUNO'S TOUR IN IRILAND. Si/

1^^^ch, as fad as it was laid and fpiead, bore the cars : along the edges is fine white
clover.

In converfation upon the fubjcd of a union with Great Britain, I was informed that,
nothing vas fo unpopuhir in Iicland as fuch an idea ; and that the great objedion to it
vas incrcafing the number of abfcntecs. When it was in agitation, twenty peers and
ilxty commoners were talked of to fit in the Britifh parliament, which would be the refi-
dcnt of eighty of the beft eftates in Ireland. Going every year to England would, by
degrees, make them refidents ; they would educate their children there, and in time
become mere abfentces : becoming fo they would be unpopular, oth^^rs would be elefted,
V ho, treading in the fame fteps, would yield the place ftill to others j and thus, by de-
grees, a vaft portion of the kingdom now refident would be made abfentces ; which
would, they think, be fo great a drain to Ireland, that a free trade would not repay it.

I think the idea is erroneous, were it only for one circumftance, the kingdom would
lofe, according to this reafoning, an idle ract, of country gentlemen, and in exchange
their ports would fill with ftiips and commerce, and all the confequences of commerce;
an exchange that never yet proved difadvantageous to any country.

Viewed Mount Juliet, Lord Carrick's feat, which is beautifully fituated on a fine
declivity on the banks of the Nore, commanding fome extenfive plantations that fpread
over the hills, which rife in a var'ous manner on the other fide of the river : a knole
of lawn rifes among them with artificial ruins upon it, but the fituation is not in uni-
fon with the idea of a ruin, very rarely placed to efFeft, unlefs in retired and melan-
choly fpots.

The river is a very fine one, and has a good accompaniment of well grown wood.
From the cottage a more varied fcene is viewed, chearing and pleafing ; and from the
tent in the farther plantation a yet gayer one, which looks down on feveral bends of
the river.

July II, left Kilfaine : Mr. Buihe accompanied me to Woodftock, the feat of Sir
W. Fownes. From Thomaftown hither is the fined ride I have yet had in Ireland. The
road leaving I'homaflown leads on the eaft fide of the river, through fome beautiful
copfe woods, which before they were cut mull have had a moft noble effed, with the
river Nore winding at the bottom ; the country then opens fomewhat, and you pafs
mod of the way for fix or feven miles to Innideague, on a declivity fhelving down
to the river, which takes a varied winding courfe, fometimes lively, breaking over a
rocky bottom, at others dill and deep under the gloom of fome fine woods, which hang
down the fides of deep hills. Narrow flips of meadow of a beautiful verdure in fome
places form the fiiore, and unite with cultivated fields that fpread over the adjoining
hills, reaching almod the mountain tops : thefe are large and bold, and give in general
to the fcencs features of great magnificence. Pafled Sir John Hafler's on the oppofite
fide of the river, finely fituated, and Mr. Nicholfon's farm on this fide, who has very
extenfive copfes which line the river. Coming in fight of Sir W. Fownes's, the fceneiy
is driking, the road mounts the fide of the hill, and commands the river at the bottom
of the declivity, with groups of trees prettily fcattered about, and the little borough of
Innedeague in a moft pidurelque fituation, the whole bounded by mountains. Crofs
the bridge, and going through the town, take a path that leads to a fmall building in
the woods, called Mount Sandford ; it is at the top of a rocky declivity almod perpen-
dicular, but with brudi-wood growing from the rocks. At the bottom is the river,
which comce from the right from behind a very bold hanging wood, that feems to
unite with the hill on the oppofite fliore : at this pafs the river fills the vale, but it
widens by degrees, and prefents various reaches, intermixed with little tufts of trees,

VOL. III. c M the

is!

^![

m *!'

tHf^Hii?!

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young's tour in IRELAND.

the bridge we paflTed over is half hid. Innifteague is mixed with them, and its build,
ings backed by a larger wooH, give variety to the fcene. Oppofite to the point of view
ther« are fome pretty inclofures, fringed with wood, and a line of cuhivated mountain
fides, with their bare tops limit the whole.

Taking my Iea\e of Mr. Bulhe, I followed the road to Rofs. PaflTed Woodftock, of
which <here is a very fine view from the top of one of the hills, the houfc in the centre
of a Hoping wood of five hundred Englilh acres, and hanging in one noble {hide to
the river, which flows at the bottom of a winding glen. From the fame hill in front
it is fccn in a winding courfe for many miles through a great extent of inclofures,
bounded by mountains. As I advanced the views of the river Nore werd very fine,
till I came to Rofs, where from the hill before you go down to the ferry is a noble
fcene of the Barrow, a vaft river flowing through bold fliores, in fome places trees on
the bank half obfcure it, in others it opens in large reaches, the effe£t equally urand and
beautiful. Ships failing up to the town, which is built on the fide of a hill to the
water's edgi , enliven the fcene not a little. The water is very deep and the navigation
fecure, fo that fliips of feven hundred tons may come up to the town ; but thefe noble
harbours on the coafl of Ireland are only melancholy capabilities of commerce : it is
languid and trifling. There are only four or five brigs and floops that belong to
the place-
Having now pafll'd through a confidcrable extent of country, in which the white
boys were common, and committed many outrages, I fhall here review the intelli-
gence I received concerning tliem throughout the county of Kilkenny. I made
many inquiries into the origin of ihofe diliurbanccs, and found that no fuch thing as a
leveller or white boy was heard of till 1760, which was long after the landing of Thu-
rot, or the intended expedition of M. Conflans. That no foreign coin was ever feen
among them, thou>;h reports to the contrary were circulated ; and in all the evidence
that was taken during ten or twelve years, in which time there appeared a variety of
informers, none was ever taken, whofe telHmony could be relied on, that ever proved
any foreign interpofiiion. Thofe very few who attempted to favoni- it. were of the mod
infamous and perjured characters. All the relt whofe inter,;i it was to make the
difcovery, if they had known it, and who concealed nothing elfc, p. xtended to no fuch
knowledge. No foreign nuniey appeared, no arms of foreign conllruftion, no pre-
fumptivc proof whatever of fuch a conned'on. They began in Tipnerary, and vere
owing to fome inclofures of commons, which they threw down, levelling the ditciies,
and were firft known by the name of levellers. After that, fhiy begun with the ly.he-
pioclors, (who are men that hire tythcsot the reclors.) and thele piodors either fcrewed
the cottars up to the utmolt fhilling, or re-kt the tytlies to inch as did it. It was a
common pratlice with them to go in parties aliout the couiitiy, Iwearing many to be
true to tliciii, and forcin;^ them to join by menaces, which they very often carried into
execution. At laft, they fct v<> to be general redrelf rs of grievances, puiiifhed all ob-
noxious perfons who advancul the value of lands, or hired farms over their heads ;
anii, having taken the adminilhation of jufiice into their hands, were not very exaft in
the dilfribution of it. Forced mailers to relcafe their aj^i^rentices, carried olT the daugh-
ters of rich farmers, ravilhed tliein into marriages, of which four iiiltances h ippencd in
a fortnight. I \wy levied fums of money on the middling and lower farmers in order to
fuppori their eaule, bv paying attorniis, ;^( . in defending prolecutions againit them ; and
many of thrm lubfilleti for ibrne years with )Ut work, lupported by thele contributions.
Sometimes they committed feverul confulrablerobberies, breaking into iioufes and taking
the mooey, under pretence yf ledreliing grievances. In the courl'c of ihefe outrages

they

young's tour in IRELAND. 819

they burnt feveral houfes, and deflroyed the whole fiibftance of men obnoxious to them.
The barl)aiiti(\s they committed were (hocking. One of their ufual punifhments (and
by no means the moft fovere) was taking people out of their beds, carrying them naked
in winter on horfe-back for fome dillance, and burying them up to their chin in a
hole lilled with briars, not forgetting 'to cut off their cars. In this manner the evil
exifled for eight or ten years, during which time the genilemen of the country took
fome meafures to quell thorn. Many of the magiilrates were adlive in apprehending
them ; but the want of evidence prevented punifhmcnts for many of thofe who even
fufleped by them had no fpirit to profecute. The gentlemen of the country had fre-
quent expeditions to difcover them in arms; but their intelligence was fo uncommonly
good by their influence over the common people, that not one party that ever went
out in quell of them was fuccefsful. Government oO'ercd large rewards for informa-
tions, which brought a few every year to the gallows, without any radical cure for the
evil. The reafon why it was not more effective was the neceflity of any perfoa that
gave evidence againft them quitting their houfes and country, or remaining expofed
to th"ir refentment. At lad their violence avole to a height which brought on their
fuppreflion. The popifh inhabitants of Ballyragget, fix miles from Kilkenny, were the
firll of the lower people who dared openly to aflbciutc ngainft them ; they threatened
deflruftion to the town, gave notice thai they wculd attack it, were as good as their
word, came two hund/ed ll»ong, drew up before a houfe in which were fifteen armed
men, and fired in at the windov.s ; the fifteen men handled their arms fo well, that
in a few rounds they killed forty or fifty. They fled immediately, and ever after left
Ballyragget !.i peace : indeed they have never been refilled at all without fhpwing a
great .want of both fpirit and diicipline. It fhould however be obferved, that they
had but very few arms, thofe in bad order, and no cartridges. Scon after this they
attacked the houfe of Mr. Power in Tipperary, the hiftory of which is well known.
His murder ipirited up the gentlemen to exert thcmfelvcs in fupprcfling the evil, efpeci-
ally in raifing fubfcripiions to give private rewards to whoever would give evidence or
information conccrnirfg them. The private diftribution had much more efleft than
larger funis which required a public declaration ; and goverinncnt giving rewards to
thole who refidcd thetr, without having previoufly promifed it, had likewife fome ef-
fed. Laws were paffed for punifhing all who alfembled, and (what may have a great
efteft) for recompenfing, at the expence of the county or barony, all perfDns who
fullered by their outrages. In confcqucnce of this general exertion, above twenty were
capitally convidled, and mod of them executed ; and the goals of this ard tlic thn-^e
neighbouring counties, C \rlow, Tipperary, and Queen^s-county, have muiy ia them
vhofe trials are put off till next aiTizes, and againlt whom fufficient evidence for con-
vicUon, it is fuppoied, will appear. Since this all has been quiet, and no outraj,es have
been committed : but before I quit the fubjeft, it is proper to remark that what coincided
very much to abate the evil, was the fall in the price of lands, which has taken place
lately. This is confiderrjie, and has much leffened the evil of hiring farms over the
heads of one another; perhaps alfo the tythe-proiSlors have not been quite fo ievere in
their extortions' : but this cbfervation is by no means general; for in many places
tythes yet continue to be levied, with all thofe circumftances which originally raifed

the evil.

July 15th, leaving Courtown, took the Arklow road ; paffed a finely wooded park
of Ml'. Rams, and a various country with fome good corn in it. Flat lands by the
coaft let very high, and mountain at fix fhillings or fevcn fliillings an acre,* and fome ^
eight (hillings, or ten Hiillings. PalTcd to Wicklow, prcuily fituated on the lea, ;ind

5 M a

ftoM

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r I.

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YOUNO ^ TOUR IN IRELANP

from Newr^'bridgc walked to fee Mr. Tye's, which is a neat farm well wooded, with a
river ninnine through the fields.

Reached m the evening Mount Kennedy, the feat of General Cunninghame, who
fortunately proved to me an inftruftor as afllduous 3S he is able. He is in the midfl of
a country almofl his own, for he has 10,000 iTrifli acres here. His domain, and the
grounds about it, are very beautiful, not a level can ' ; feen , every fpot is tolfed about
in a variety of hill and dale. In the middle of the L.vn is one of the greatell natural
curiofities in the kingdom ; an immenfe arbutus tree unfortungitely blown down, but
yet vegetating, one branch, which parts from the body near the ground, and afterwards
into many large branches, is fix feet two inches in circumference. The general buried
part of tne ftem as it laid, and it is from feveral branches throwing out fine young
Oioots : it is a moft venerable remnant. Killarney, the region of the arbutus, boafts of
no fuch tree as this-

July 16th, rode in the morning to Drum ; a large* extent of mountains and wood,
on the General's eftate. It is a very noble fcenery ; a vafl rocky glen ; one fide bare
rocks to an immenfe height, hanging in a thoufand whimfical, yet frightful forms, with
vaft fragments tumbled from them, and lying in romantic confufion ; the other a fine
mountain fide covered with fhrubby wood. This wild pafs leads to the bottom of an
amphitheatre of mountain, which exliibits a very noble fcenery. To the right is an
immenfe fwecp of mountain completely wooded ; taken as a fingle objeft it is a moft
magnificent one, but its forms are pidurefque in the higheft degree; great projeftions
of hill, with glens behind all wooded, have a noble effc£t. Every feature oi the whole
view is great, and unites to form a fcene of natura! magnificence. From hence a riding
is cut through the hs*. ging wood, which rifes to a central fpot, where the genera! has
cleared away the rubbilh from under the wood, and made a beautiful waving lawn with
many oaks and hollies fcattered about it ; here he has built a cottage, a pretty whimfical
oval room, from the windows of which are three views, one of diftant rich lands open-
ing to the fca, one upon a great mountain, and a third upon a part of the lawn. It is
Well placed, and forms upon the whole a moft agreeable retreat.

July 17th. Took my leave of General Cunninghame, and went through thcglcu of
the downs in my way 10 Pcwerfcourt. The glen is a pal's between two vaft ridges of
mountains covered with wood, which have a very noble efleft, the vale is no wider than
to admit the road, a fmall gurgiing river almoft by its fide, and narrow flips of rocky
and Shrubby ground which parts them : in the front iP. efcape feems denied by an im-
menfe conical mountain which rifes out of the glen, and feems to fill it up. The fcenery
is of a moft magnificent charafter. On the top of the ric^^e to the right Mr. La Touche
has a banqueting room. Pafllng from this fublime fcene. ihe road leads through choarfid
grounds all under com, rifing and falling to the eye, and then to a vale of charming v er-
durc broken into inclofures, ?nd bounded by two rocky mountains, diftant darker nKun-
tains filling up the fcene in front : this whole ride is interefting, for withm a mile and a
half of Tmnyhinch, (the inn to vhich I was dircded,) you come to a delicious view on
iLe - Ight, a fmall vale opening to the fea, bounded by mountains, whofe dark fhadc
f: - ilia a perfeft contraft to the extreme beauty and lively verdure of the lower fcene,
confiding of gently fwelling lawns rifing from each other, with groups of trees between,
and the whole fo prettily fcattered with white farms, as to add every idea of chearful-
nofs. Kept on towards Powerfcourt, which prefently came in view from the edge of a
declivity. You look full upon the houfe, which appears to be in the moft beautiful fi-
toation in the world, on the fide of a mountain, half way between its b;^re top, and an
irriguous vale at its foot. In front, and fprcading among woods on cither lide, is a

lawn

VOUNO S TOUR IN IRELAND.

82t

fawn whofe furface is beautifully varied in gentle declivities, hanging to a winding
river.

Lowering the hill the fccnery is yet more agreeable, ihe near inclofures are margined
V lih trees, through whofe open branches are feen whole fields of the moll lively ver-
dure. The trees gather into groups, and the lawn fwells into gentje inequalities, while
the river winding beneath renders the whole truly pleafing.

Breakfafted at the inn at Tinny hinch, and then drove to the piirk to fee the water-fall.
The park itfelf is fine ; you enter it between two vaft maftes of mountain, covered with
wood, forming a vale fcattercd with trees, through which flows a river on a broken
rocky channel : you follow this vale till it is loft in a moft ^»nconimon manner, the
ridges of mountain clofing, form one great amphitheatre ot wood, from the top of
which, at the height of many hundred feet, burfts the water from a rock, and tumbling
down the fule of a verv large one, forms afcene Angularly beautiful. At the bottoni
is a fpot of velvet turf, from which rifes a clump of oaks, and through their ftems,
branches and leaves, the falling water is feen as a back ground, with an effcft more plc-
turefque than can be well imagined ; thefe few trees, and this little lawn, give the finiih-
ing to the fcene. The water falls behind fome large fragments of rock, and turns to the "
left, down a ftony channel, under the fhade of a v/ood.

Returning to Tinnyhinch, I went to Innifkerry, and gained by this detour in my re-
turn to go to the Dargle, a beautiful view which I fljould otherwife have loft ; the road
runs on the edge of a declivity, from whence there is a moft pleafing profpedtof the
river's courfe through the vale, and the wood of Powerfcourt, which here appear in
large mafles of dark (hade, the whole bounded by mountains. Turr to the left into the
private road that leads to the Dargle, and prefently gives a fpecimen of what is to be
e-\pe«Sed by a romantic glen of wood, where the high lands almoft lock into each other,
and leave fcarce a pafliige for the river at botton, which rages, as if with difficulty forc-
ing its way. It is topped by a high mountain, and in front you catch a beautiful plat of
inclofures bounded by the fea. Enter the Dargle, which is the name of a glen near a
mile long. Come prefently to one of the fineft ranges of wood I have any where feen :
it is a narrow glen or vale formed by the fides of two oppofite mountains ; the whole
thickly fpread with oak wood, at the bottom (and the depth is immenfe), it is narrowed *
to the mere channel of the river, which rather tumbles from rock to rock than runs.
The extent of wood that hangs to the eye in every direction isfjreat, the depth of the
precipice on which you (land immenfe, which with the roar of the water at bottom
forms a fcene truly interefting. In lefs than a quarter of a mile, the road paffing
through the wood leads to another pohit of view to the right. It is the crown of a vaft
projefting rock, from which you look down a p.VL:pice abfolutely perpendiculav, and
many hundred feet deep upon the torrent at the bo,a)m, which finds its noify vay over
large fragments of rock. The point of view is a great projeftion of the mountain on
this fide, anfwered by a concave of the oppofite, fo that you command the glen both
to the right and left : ii exhibits on both, immenfe fheets of foreft, which have a moft
magnificent appearance, i'; yond the wood, to the right, are fome inclofures hanging
on the ftde of a hill, crowned by a mountain . I knew not how to leave fo interefting a
fpot, the impreflions railed by it are ftrong. The folemnity of fi I in extent of wood
i»nbrok.n by any intervening objeds, and the whole hanging o • declivities i> alore
great ; but to this the addition of a conftant roar of falling water, eiiher quire hiu, or fo
far below as to be feen but obfcurely united to make thole impre0ions lb • ,;er. No
contradiftory emotions are raifed ; no ill judged iemples appear to enlivei ::ene that
is gloomy rather than gay. Falling or moving water is a lively objed j but this being

obl'cure

ijp,,

f':'

IflA

/OUNO 3 TOUR IN IRELAND.

obfciire the nolfe operates differently. TMlowing tl»e road a little further, there is an-
oihcr bolJ rocky projcd^Ion from which aifo there is a double view to the right and
left. In front fo immenfe a fweep of hanging wood, that a nobler fcene can hardly be
imaginod : the river as before, at the bottom of the precipice, which is fo deep and the
depth fo great, as fo be quite fearful to look down. Ihis horrid precipice, xm: pointod
bleak mountains in view, wkih the roar c-f <!ie water, all confpire to raife ue great en'.tt.
tionof the fublime. You advance fcarc 'v twenty yards before a pretiy icer;' opens t'J
the left, a diilant landfcape of inclofures, xvith a river winding betweei; ihe 'r-:l! i to tl^e
fea. PaHing to the right, frcfh ? :encs cf wood appear .-. half vay to t!v> boifom, on-
different from the preceding ivS feen ; you ;re aimoll inck>fed it wood, .v..\ lock to 'lie
right through fome low oaks on the oppi lite bank of wood, with an ed ,'';g of trees
through wSiich the fky is fecn, which ad<ic ; !■> an uncor- i->on cieej.^prp in the out-line
of the hiU, has amoft pleafing cfi'cd. Wimtliu^ dcnvr.. u i thatchtni bench on a rocky
point, yoi; look upon an uncommon fcene. Iinmcdiateiy l>oneath is a vafl: ch.'iu in the
rock, which fccms torn afunder, to let the torrent ihrough thai imos utiibling ovoa
rocky ocu h.r ismk into a channel rmbofomeil in wood. /u;Ove is a range of sfloomy
obfcun; wood , which haJf over-flnxvow it, and rifingtoa vafl hci';ht :)x:U:dc cvcr\ ..h.
jeft. 'i'o 'he i;fi thi k»,.hv rolls .way over broken rocks: a fcoie truly r-,manhc.
Followed the path : i; U ' mc to th.; water's cd^e, at tl>o bottom of the glen, where i::a
new fcene, in whici'-. not a rav.^ie .:ctnnftv\nt:e hurts the principal charader. In a hol-
low formed of rock and wood (Cve! / object o::cluded but thofe and water) the torrent
breaks forth from fragmcrUc < t rock, uid tumbles tiirough the chafni, rocks bulging
over it, as if ready to fall iiuo the channel, and l':op the impetuous water. The Ihade
is fo thick, ^s to excidde the heavens, all »s retired and gloomy, abrov>a horror breath-
ing over the whole, it is a fpor for melancholy to mufe in.

Return to the carriage, and quit the Dargle, which upon the whole Is a very fingular
place, different Ir .> i all I ha\ e feen in England, and I tl)ink preferable ?;> mofl. Crofs
a murmuring ftream c'ear as chryllal, and riling a hill, look back on a pleafing Undfcapc
©J 1; dofures, which '.vaving eve'* hills, end in mountains of a \cry noble charader.
Reacb Dublin.

Jlu/ .^o, ToDrogheda, a woU built tcwn, adivein trade, the Boyne bringing {hips
to it. 1; vas market day, and I found the quantity of corn, Sec. and the number of
people afttMbled very great ; few country markets in England more thronged. The
Rev. Mr. I>iirfbit, to whom rcconimended, abieiit, which was a great lofs tome, as I had
feveral enquiries which remained unfatisfied.

i> the field o^ battle on the Boyne. The view of the fcene from a rifing ground
vhicii looks down upon it is exceedingly beautiful, being one of the coinpleateft land-
fcapes I have feen. !t is a vale, loofing itfclf in front between bold declivities, above
v/hich arc fome thick woods, and diftant country. Through the vale the river winds
and fornjs ..n ifland, the point of which is tufted with trees in the prctiiefl manner im-
aginable ; on the other fide a rich fcenery of wood, among which is Dodor Norris's
houfe. To the right on a riling ground on the banks of the river is tlie obelifk, backed
by a .i.-y bold decHvity ; purfued the road till near it, quitted my chaif-, anil walked
to the r >t of it. It is founded on a rock which rifes boldly from th- river. It is a
noble pillar and admirably placed. I feated inyfclf on the oppofite roci- . u;id indulged
the emotions which with a melancholy not unpleafing filled my boforj ^ sie I reflcdcd
on the confequeaces that had fprung from the vitlory nerc obtained. : ty wao then
triumphant. May the virtues o.* r port :rity fecure that pri. w»> ihe bravery of

a their

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YOUNO'S TOUR IN IRELAND.

823

thoir anceftors won ! Peace to the memory of the Prince to whom, whatever might be
his failings we owed that day memorable in the annals of Europe !

Returned part of the way, and took the road to Cullen, where the Lord Chief Baron
Forfter received me in th» mod obliging manner, and gave me a variety of information
uncommonly valuable. He has made the greatelk improvements I have any where met
with. The whole country twenty-two years ago was a wafte flieep walk, covered chiefly
with heath, with fome dwarf furze and fern. The cabins and people as miferable as
can be conceived ; not a proteftant in the country, nor a road palfable for a carriage.-
In a word, perfeftly refembling other mountainous trads, and the whole yielding a rent
of not more than from three ihillings to four (hillings an acre. Mr. Forfler could not
bear fo barren a property, and determined to attempt the improvement of an eflate of
five thouian! acres till then deemed irreclaimable. He encouraged the tenants by every
fpecies of perfuafion and expence, but they had fo ill an opinion of the land that lie was
forced to bcf'in v\ ith two or three thoufand acres in his own hands ; he did not, how-
ever, turn out the people, but kept them in to fe^ the effefts of his operations.

To Dundalk, the view uown on this town alfo very beautiful, fwelling hills of a fine
verdure, with many rich inclofures backed by a bold outline of mountain that is re-
markabU-. Laid at the Claiibraful Arms, and found it a very good inn. The place,
like moft of the Irifli towns 1 have been in, full of new buildings, with every mark of in-
cieafing wealth and profperity. A cambrick manufacture was eftabliflied here by par-
liament, but failed ; it was, however, the origin of that more to the north.

July : 2. Left Dundalk, took the road through Ravenfdale to Mr. Fortefcue, to
whom I had a letter, but unfortunately he was in the South of Ireland. Here I law
many good ftone and flate houfes, and 'ome bleach greens; and 1 was much pleafed to
fee the inclofures creeping high up the fides of ihe mountains ftoney as they are. Mr.
Fortefcuc's fituation is very romantic on the fide of a mountain, with fine wood hang-
ing on every fide, with the lawn beautifully fcattered with trees fpreading into them,
and a pretty river winding through the vale, beautiful in itfelf, but trebly fo on infor-
mation, that before he fixed there, it was all a wild walte. Rents in Ravenfdale ten
Ihillings, mountain land, two fliillimrs and fix-pence to five (hillings. Alfo large trafts
rented by villages, the cottars dividing it among themfelves, and making the mountain
common for their cattle.

lireakfafted at Newry, the globe, another good inn. This town appears exceedingly
flourifhing, and is very well built ; yet forty years ago, I was told that there were no-
thing but mud cabins in it : this great rife has been much owing to the canal to Loch-
Nea"h. I crofted it twice, it is indeed a noble work. I was amazed to fee (hips of one
huniired and fifty tons and more lying in it, like barges in an Englifh canal. Here is
a confiderable trade.

Reached Ardmagh in the evening, and waited on the primate. '

July 23. His Grace rode out with me to Ardmagh, and (hewed me fome of the
noble and fpirited works by which he has perfectly changed the face of the neighbour-
hood. The buildings b? has ereded in feven years, one would fuppofe without pre-
vious inforinail in, to be the work of an aftive life. A lift of them will juftify this ob-

V. -. :i!:Ol.

He has licft* J a very elegant palace, ninety feet by fixty, and forty hi^h, in which an
uuadorneJ fiir.j .i 'ty re^ ns. It is light and ple.ifing, without the addition of wings or
I:fler j '.rts, which too frequ ntly wanting a luflicient imiforiMiry with the body of the
edifice, are unconneded wi'h it in tifeft, "and divide the attention. I arge and ample
blTices arc convtmnily placed behiiid a plantation at a fmall diltaucc: around the

palace

}

;'iiiil

824 • young's tour in IRELAND.

palace is a large lawn, which fpreads on every fide ovi.*r the hills, and (kirtcd by young
phmtations, in one of which is a terrace, which commamls a moft beautiful view of cul-
tivated hill and dale. The view from the palace is much improved by the barracks, the
fchool, and a new church at a diilance, all which arc fo placed as to be exceedingly or-
namental to thi* whole country.

The barracks were erefted under his Grace's dircflions, and form a large and hand-
fome edifice. Thi- fchool is a building of confiderable extent, and admii .ihly aiiaptcd
for the purpofe : a more convenient or a betler contrived one, is no where to be I'een.
There are apartments for a mader, a fchool- room fifty-fix feet by twenty eij;hr, a large
dining room, and fpacious airy dormitories, with every other necelTary. ami a fpacmus
play-ground walled in ; the whole forming ahandfoine front : and attenti'->n hi ng piid
to the refidence of the mafter (the falary is four hundred pounds a year), the fchool
flourilhcs, and muft prove one of the groateft advantages to the country of any thing
that could have been eftablifhed. This nrtice entirely at the primate's expence. The
church isercdlcd of white (lone, and having a tall fpire makes a very agreeable obj'd,
in a countrv where churches and fpires do not abound, at leafl fuch as are wor h look-
ing at. Three other churches the primate has alfo built, and done confiderable repara-
tions to the cathedral.

He has been the means alfo of erefling a public infirmary, which was built by fub-
fcription, contributing amply to it himfelf.

A public library he has creeled at his own expence, given a large collection of books,
and endowed it. The room is excellently adjpted, forty-five feet by twenty-five, and
twenty high with a gallery, and apartments for a librarian.

He has fiirthi r ornaniented the city with a market-houfe and fliambl s, and been the
dired means, by givhig leafes upon that coalition, of aliuolt new building the whole
place. Me found it a neii of mud cabins, and he will leave it a well built city of (tone
and flate. I heard it aiferted in common convcrfaiion, that his Grace, in thefe noble un-
dertakings, h.d not expended kl's than thirty thouland pounds befides what he had been
the means of doing, though not diredly at his own expence.

In the evening riached Mr. Brownlow's at Lurgan, to whom I am indebted for fome
valuable ii;formatuM». This gentleman has made very great iniprovements in his do-
main : he has a l..kc at the bottom of a flight vale, and around are three walks, at a
diitance from each other ; the center one is the principal, and extends two miles. It
is well condudfd fur leading to the moll agreeable parts of the grounds, vmA for com-
Tnai\ding views of Loch Neagh, and the dillant country ; there are feveral buildings, a
temple, gre- n-houfe, &c. The mod beautiful fcene is from a bench on a gently iwell-
ing hill, w hich rifes almoft on every fide from the water. The wood, the water, and
the green Hopes ; here unite to form a very pleafing landfcape. Let me obferve one
tiling much to his honour ; he advances his tenants money for all the lime they chufe,
and takes payment in eight years with rent.

Uix)n enquiring concerning the emigrations, I found that in 1772 and 1773, they
were at the height ; that fonte went from this neighbourhood with property, but not
many. They were in general poor and unemployed. They find here, that when pi o-
viftons are very cheap, the poor fpend much of their time in whifky-houfes. All th«
drapers wifh tljat ratmeal was never under one penny a pound. Though farms are ex-
ceedingly divided, yet few of the people raife oarmeal enou^^li to feed themfelves ; all
^o to market for !t)me. The weavers earn by co rfe linens one (hilling a day, by fine
one (hilling and fc^ur pence, and it is the fame with the fpinners, the finer the yarn the
tfioie tiiey carn^ but in common a woman earns about threc'pence. For m>-ic linens

i t\\cy

young's tour in IRELAND.

S2;

they do not reckon the flax hurt by (landing for feed. Their own flax is much better
than the imported.

This country is in general beautiful, but particularly fo about the ftreights that lead
into Strangford l.och. From Mr. Savage's door the view has great variety. To the
left are trads of hilly grounds, between which the fea appears, and tlic vaft chain of
mountains in the Ifle of Man diftindly feen. In front the hills rife in a beautiful out-
line, and a round hill projeds like a promontory into the ftreight, and under it the town
amidfl groups of trees ; the fcene is chearful of itfelf, but rendered doubly fo by tho
fhips and herring-boats faiUng in and out. To the right the view is crowned by the
mountains of Mourne, which, wherever fetn, are of a tharaviler peculiarly bold, and
even terrific. The (horesofthe loch behind Mr. Savage's are bold ground, abounding
with numerous pleafing landfcapes ; the oppofite coalt, confiding of the woods and im-
provements of Caitle-Ward, is a, fine fcencry.

Called at Lord Bangor's at Caftle Ward, to deliver a letter of recommendation, but
unfortunately he was on a failing party to England ; walked through the woods, &c.
The houfe was built by the preient Lord. It is a very handfome edifice with two prin-
cipal fronts, but not of the fame architefture, for the one is Gothic, and the other Gre-
cian. From the temple is a fine wooded fcene ; you look down on a glen of wood, with
a winding hill quite covered with it, and which breaks the view of a large bay: over it
appears the peninfula of Strangford, which confifts of ihclofures and wood. To the
right, the bay is bounded by a fine grove, which projefls into it. A fliip at anchor ad-
ded much. The houfe well fituatcd above fevcral rifing woods, the whole fcene a fine
one. I remarked in Lord Bangor's domains, a fine field of turnips, but unhoed.
There were fomc cabbages alfo.

Beifaft is a very well built town of brick, they having no ftone quarry in the neigh-
bourhood. The ftreets are broad and ftrait, and the inhabitants, amounting to about
fifteen thoufand, make it appear Hvely and bufy. The public buildings are not nu-
merous or very ilriking, but over the exchange Lord Donneg.. is building an aflembly
room, fixty feet long, by thirty broad, and twenty-four high ; a Vv -v e'^orant room. A
card room adjoining, thivty by twenty-two, and twenty-two high j * <. room of the
fame fize. His lordlhip is alfo building a new chuich, which is one ut the lightefl and
molt pleafing 1 have any where feen : it is feventy-four by fifty-four, and thirty high to
the cornice ; theifles feparatedby a double row of columns; nothing can be lighter
or more pleafing. The town bcivings entirely to his lordfliip. Rent of it 2000I. a
year. His ellate extends from Drumbridge. near Lifburne to Lame, twenty miles in
a right line, and is ten broad. His royalties arc great, containing the whole of Loch "
Neagh, which is I fuppofe the greateft of any fubjeft in Europe. His eel fifliery at Tome,
and Port-New, on tlie river Ban, lets for 50CK a year ; and all the fifl\erics arc his to
the leap at Colrainc. The eftate is fuppofed to be 31,000!. a year, the greateft at pre-
fent in Ireland. Innifhoen in Donnegal is his, and is 1 1 ,oooI. of it. In Antrim, Lord
Antrim's is the moft extenfive property, being four baronies, ant ' ndred and ieventy-
three thouland acres. The rent 8oool.-a year, but re-let for 64,0001. a year, by te-
nants that have perpetuities, perhaps the crueleft inftance in the world of careleltnefs
for the intereds of pofterity. The prefent Lord's father granted thofe leafes.

I was informed that Mr. Ifaac, near Beifaft, had four acres, Irifli meafure, of ftrong
clay land not broken Ujj for many years, which being amply manured with lime rub-
bifti *nd fea ftiells, and fa"owed, was fown with wheat, and yield 87I. 9s. at gs. to i is,
t>er cv Alfo that Mr. w hitley, of BallindciTy, near Lifburne, a tenant of Lord Hen.
ford'?' .'.as rarely any whe?.»' that does not yield him eighteen pounds an acre. The til-
lage of the neighbourhood for ten miles round is doubled in a few years. Shall export

vox.. i». 5 N on^

826

YOUMO 8 TOUR IN IRPLAND.

one thoiifand tons of corn this year from Uolfall:, mod of it to the Weft Indies, particu.
larly oats.

Ai!g»i(l I, to Arthur Biinlin's, Ijq. near Bclfafl } the foil a ftiffclay ; lets at old renti
los., ni'w on« i8s., the town parks ol that pl.ice 30s. to yos., ten inili-s round it lo'i.
to 20s., average 13s. A great di-.il of Uax Jown, every countryman having a little,
always on potatoe land, and one pif e hiiu; : tlity ufually low each family a bufhel of
feed. Thole who have no land pay t' • i . niiis 20s. rem for the land a bufhel of feed
fows, and :iK\ays on poiatoi .lUl. Tiiey plant many more potatoes tliaii they i it, to
iupplv the market st Helfafl ; manure for them with all their dung, and fome of them
mix dung, earth, iuid lime, and tliis is found to lio better. There is much alaballer
near the town, which is uled lor Ihicco plailler ; fell., Irom il. is. to 25s. a ton.

In my way to Antrim, viewed the bleach-green of 1\I'". ThomaK Sinclair; it is the
compieteftl had feen h re. 1 underllood that the IM ''•' " • feafon laited nine month?,
and thit watering on the grafs was quiie left ot). iVi'-. :3»ncl !r hi,..,l.lf was not at home,
or 1 fliould probably have gained fome intelligence that unght have been ulefui.

Crofled the mountains by the new road to Antrim, and fou.id them to the fummits
to confill ofexf ding good loam, and iuch as would improve into g )od meadow. It
is all thrown to •' little adjoining farms, with very little or any rent paid for it. They
niak<' no other nl ■ ul it than turning their co\^.s on. Pity they do not im|nove ; a work
more proiltaMe than any they could undertake. All the way to Antrim lands let at an
average at Sf.. 'Ihc linen manulachire I'preads over the whole country, coafequently
the farms are very fmall, being nothing but patches for the convenience of weavers.

From Antrim to Shanes Callle the road runs at the end of Loch Neagh, command-
ing a noble vieUof it; v ! fuch an extent that the eye can iee no land over it. It ap-
pears like a pcrfetl lea, and the (hore is broken randd)anks, which look lo much like if,
that one can hardly believe the water to b" freih. Upon my arrival at the ca'tle, I was
mod agreeably faluted with four men hoeing a (ield of turnips round it, jlj ;. prepara-
tion for grafs. Thefe were the firll turnip-hoers I have feen in Ireland, and I was more
pleafed than if I had feen four emperors.

Thecaflle is beautifully Ctuated 0.1 the lake, the windows ■-immanding a very noble
view of it ; and this has the liner cfietif, as tlie woods arc coniiderable, and form a fine
accompaniment to this noble inland fe i.

Rode from Mr. I.eiiy's to view the Giant's Caufeway. It is certainly a very great
euriofity, as an objecl for fpcculation upon liic manner of its forniutictn ; whether it
owes its origin to lire, and is a fpecies of la /a, or to eryllalization, or to whatever caul'e,
i-s a point that has employed th' iKntiur of men i h more;. hie to vlccide upon it than
1 am ; and has been fo olten treated, that nothing 1 could lay could be new. Wiien
two bits ol thefe baialtes are nibbed together quick, they emii a coniiderable fcent
like burnt leather. The fernery of the C'aukway. nor of the adjacent mountains, is
very magnificenr, though the cliti.'i are bold ; but /or a confidei ible uiitance there is a
flrong dhpolition in the rocks to run into jantagonal cylinders, and even at
bridge, by Mr. Lefly's, is a rock in which the fame dilpofuion is plainly vif'^le. I be-
lieve the Caufeway would have (Iruck me moi • if I uad not fc 11 the print., of Staffa.

Returned to Lellyhid ; and Augull 5th i rted lt>r CoK rai'^e. 'J'iiere the Right
Hon. Mr. Jackfon ailiiled me with the great. , .)lit( lIsIh procuin .; ilie intelligence I
I wilhed about the iahnon-fdhery, which is ihegreateii in the kingdoui, and viewed both
fifherie*^ •'hove and below the town, very pLalantly i.tuated on the river Ban. The
fahtion .pawn in all the rivers tli i run into the Ban about the beginni.ig of Augu.i, and
as loon as they have done fwim to the lea, where they Hay nil January, wlicu they bcgia

•5 to

V TMO'S TOUR IN IRELAND. 827

to return to the frcfh watpr, ai. i continue doing it till Aiigurt, in whicli voyage they are
tiki-n ; the n'^ts aiv fet in tlie midillo ot' January, but by ad of parliament no nets nor
wfirs can be kipt down after the laih of Augull. All il\o filherics on the river Ban
let at eociol. a year. From the fia to the rock above Cloleraine, where the weirs are
built, bi'lonj^s to the London companicr. ; the gn^ated part of the reft to Loi.l Donno-
a;\\. Thoec ' filliorics let at loool a year, and theialinon lifn^ries at Coleraiiie loool.
The eels mii.o pcrioilical voyaj^'s, as the fahiion, but indiad of fpawning in the frelh
water, they ,0 to the fea to fpawn, and the young fry return againft the dream; to
enable tluMV to do which with greater eafe at the kap, draw ropes are hung in the
water for thi ii ; when they return to fea they are taken : many of them \vei<i;h nine or
ten pounds. The you!ig falmon are call<-d grauls, and grow at a rate which I fliould
fiippofe fcarc any iiih commonly known ( qiials ; for within the year fome of them will
wine to fixti n and eighteen pounds, but in general ten or twelve pounds : fuch as
cfcipe the firl year's filhery are falmon ; and at two years old will generally weigh
twenty to twiiy-livc pounds. This year's fillury has proved the grcatcd that ever
was known, and they had the largell haul, taking 1452 lalmon at one dnig of one net.
In the year 1756 they had 8K2, which was the next grcatcd hawl. I had the pleafurc
of feeing 370 drawn in at once. They have this year taken four hundred tons of fifli ;
two hundred fold frefli at a penny and three-halfpence a pound, and two hundred lalted,
at 1 81. and 20I. per ton, which are lent to London, Spain, and Italy. The hlhery em-
ploys eighty men, and the expences in general calculated to equal the rent.

The linen manufadure is very general about Coleraine, coarfc ten hundred linen.
It is carried to Dublin in cars, one hundred and ten miles, at 5s. per cwt. in fummer,
and 7s. 6d. in winter.

From Limmavaddy to Derry there is very little uncultivated hind. Within four miles
of th • latter, rentvS are from 1 2s. to 20s. j mountains paid for but in the grofs. Reached
Dcrrj at ni'-^ht, and waited two hours in tlio dark before the ferry-boat came ovar

lor me.

Aunud 7, in the morning, went to the bifliop's palace to leave my letters of recom-
mendatiim ; for I was informed of my misfortune in his being out of the kingdom.
He was upon a voya;;e to Stalfa, and had fent home fome of the dones of which it con-
f'lls ; they appeared perfedly to refemble in fhape, colour, and laiell, thofe of the
t.iapt's Oiufeway.

Au! ud 8, left Derry, and took the road by Raphoe to the Rev. Mr. Golding's, at
Cloiileigh, V. ho favoured me with much valuable information. I'he view of Derry, at
the didancc of a mile or two, is the mod pi61;urefque of any place I have feen ; it leen.ii
to be built on an ifland of bold land rifing from th*' river, which I'preads into a dne
liafon at the foot of the town ; the adjacent country hilly j the fcene wants nothing bur
wood to make it a iicrfecl-landfcape,

Au'Hid 11, ltd Mount Charles, and pafling thro'iirU Donnegal, took the road to
Ballylhannon ; came profently to fcveral beautiful .uuiic.ipcs, Iweiling hills, cultivated,
with the bay dowing up among them : they want nothing but more wood, and are
beautiful without it. Afterwards likewiie to the left they rife in various outlines, and
die away infeiifibly into one anoth. r. When the road leads to a full view of the bay of
Donnegal, thefo hniling fpots, above which the proud mountains rear iheir heads, are
munerous, the hillocks of ahuod rei^-ular circular forms ; they are very pleafing, from
form, verdure, and the water breakhv^' in their vales. "•*

Before I got to Ballylhannon, remarked a bleach-green, which indicates weaving m

the nei' hbourliooi. Viewed the l.dmon-leap at Ballylhannon, which is let for 400I.

■^ 5 N 2 a year.

'■;-'I

H . ill

8i8

YOUNO*S TOUR IM IRELAND.

a year. The fccnery of it is very boautil'ul ; it i^; a fine fall, and the coaft of .e river
very boUl, confiltinf^ of pcrpcndirular rocks, wiiii grafs of a beaiitiful vcrJiiro to tho
very edgo : it primes iii little promontorifs, which grow lon>^er as thry approach tho
fen, and open to {tivc a line view of the ocean. Ucfou; the fall in the iiiiJdle of me river
is a rocky ifland, on which is a ciirintj hoiill', iiiflead of the turret of a riiinjd calUe,
for which it foems formed. The town prettily fituuted on the rifinj» ground on eacli
fide of the river. —To Sir James CaKlwt ll's ; croflinj^ the bridge, (hipped for a view of
the river, which is a very fine one, and was delij^hted to fee the fahnoii jump, to me an
unufual light : the water was in-rfeclly alive with them. Rifing the hill, look back on
the town ; the fituation beautiful ; ll'e riv-er prol'enis a noble view. Come to Uellcek,
a little village, with one of the fined water-falls I remember any whore to have fin j
vieweil it from the bridi;e. The river in a very broad (heet comes Iroin beliind fome
wood, and breaks over a bed of rocks, not perpendicular, but Ihelving in various di«
redions, and foams away under the arciies ; after whicli it grows more fdent, and gives
a beautiful bend under a rock, crowned by a fine bank of wood. Reached Callle Cald.
well at night, where Sir James Caldwell rcciived me with a politeneis and cordiality
that will make me long remember it with pleafure.

Augull 15, to Belteiile, the charming feat of the Karl of Rofs. It is an ifland in
Loch Earne, of two hundred Irilh acres, every part of it hill, dale, and gcntL* declivi.
ties: it has a great deal of wood, much of which is old, and forms both deep Ihades
and opcnchearful groves, iho trees hang on the Hopes, and conlVqviently fliew them,
felvesto the bell advantage. All this is excecdi.igly pretty, but it is rendered trebly fo
by the fituation : a reach of tlie 1. kj partes before the houle, which is iituated near the
banks among fome fine woods, which give both beauty and llulter. This iheet of water,
V hich is three miles over, is bounded in front by an illand of thick wood, and by a bold
circular hilt, which is his lordHiip's dei.-r park; this hill is backed by a confiderablc
mountain. To the right are four or Hvc fine clumps of dark wood j fo many iflands
\vhich rife boldly from the lake, the water breaks in ilraits between them, and forms a
fcene extremely pidurelque. On the other fide the lake (1 retches behind wood, in a
ftreight which forms Belleide. Lord Rofs has made walks round the ifland, fronx
which there is a confiderablc variety of profpcch A temple is built ou a gentle hill,
commanding the view of the wooded iflands above-mentioned ; but the moll pleafing
profped of them is coming out from tlie grotto : they appear in an uncommon beauty j
two fecm to join, and the water which Hows between takes the appearance of a fine
bay, projeding deep into a dark wood : nothing can be more beautiiul. The park hill
rifes above ihem, and the whole is backed with mountains. '1 he home fcene at )our
feet alio is pretty ; a lawn fcattered with trees that forms the margin of the lake, clofing;
gradually in a thick wood of tall trees, above the tops of which is a diflaat view of
Cultiegh mountain, which is there feen in its proudell folemnity.

They plough all with hoifes three or four in a plough, and all abreafl. Here let it
be remarked, that they very conmioniy plough and harrow with their horfes drawing
by the tail : it is done every fealon. Nothing can put them befide this j and they infift
that take a horfe tired in traces, and put him to work by the tail, he will draw better:
quite frtfli again. Indignant reader ! this is no jefl of mine, but cruel, flubborn, bar-
barous truth. It is fo all over Cavan.

At Clonells, near Cafllo-na, lives O'Conner, the dired defcendant of Roderick
OConnor, who was Kin^ of Connaught fix or feven hundred years ago j there is a
monument of him in Rofcominon church, with his fceptre, Sec. I was told as a cer-
tainty, that this family were here long before the coming of the Milcfians. The pof-

iQ feflions,

tain, near S

VOt/No's TOtTR m IRHLAWB,

9a9:

frrtlons, fomieily fo great, are reduced to three or four hundred pounds a year, the
laniily having fared in the rrvoUitions of fo many ages, much worfe than the O'Niel''!
and O'Brien's. The common people pay him the grcateit refpe£>, and fend him pre-
fents of caitlf, &c. upon various occafions. They confider him as the prince of a people
hivoivi'd in one common ruin.

Another giear fi\mily in Connaughl is Macdermot, who calls himfcif Prince of Coo-
lavin; he lives at Coolavin, in Sligo, and though he has not .ibove one huii irod pounds
a year, will not admit his children to fit down in his prefcnce. This was certainly the.
cafe with his father, and fomc; allured me even with the prefent chief. Lord Kingfbo-
rough, Mr. I'onfonby, Mr. OHara, Mr. Sandfonl, &c. ca'iic to fee him, and his ad-
drcl« was curious : " O'Hara ! you are welcome ; Saiulford, \ am glad to fee your mo-
ther's fon (his mother was an O'Brien) : as to the reft of ye, conu; in as ye can."
Mr. O'Hara, of Nymphsfiold, is in poflcflion of a confiderable cftate in Sligo, which is
the remains of great pofTcflions they had in that country : he is one of the few defcen-
dants of the Milcfian race.

To Lord Kingfton's, to whom I had a letter, hut utifortunately for me he was at
Spaw. Walked down to Longford Hill, to view the lak«? ; it is one of the mofl deli-
cious fcencs I ever beheld, a lake of five miles by four, which fills the bottom of a gentle
valley almoft of a circular form, bounded very boldly by the mountains. Thofo to the
left rile in a nolle Hope ; they lower rither in front, and let in a view of Strand moun-
tain, near Sligo, above twenty miles off. To the right, you look over a fmall part of a
bog to a large extent of cultivated lull, with the blue mountains beyond. Were this
little piece of bog planted, the view would be more complete ; the hill on which you,
(land has a foliage of well-grown trees, which form the fouthern (horc. You look down
on fix iflands, all wooded, and on a fine promontory to the left, which flioots far into
the lake. Nothing can be more pleafing than their uncommon variety ; the firfl is
fmall, (Rock ifland) tufted with trees, under the fiuuio of which is an ancient building,
once the refidencc of Macdermot. The next a mixture of lawn and wood ; the third,
whicii appears to join this, is of a dar'.er fliado, yet not fo thick but you can '"'^e the
bright lawn under the trees. Houfe ifland is one fine thick wood, which adr.' ">3t a^
gleam of light, a contraft to the lilver bofom of the lake. Church ifland is ;h a
diftance; this is alfo a clump, and rifes boldly. Rook ifland ir. of wood j it 'p
the centre, and (hews a lawn with a building on it. It is itnpollible to ima-^.' .'. ^
pleafing and chcarful fcene. Paffed the chapel to Smithfield Hill, which is ' i; -
ground, quite furrounded with plantations ; from hence the view is chanj^ ii • ''
promontory appears very bold, and over its neck you fee another vvoou>-
moft pidurefque fituation. Nothing can be more picturefque than Rock iflani.^ iu lu a
overhung with ivy. The other iflands affume frefli and varied outlines, and form wpon
the whole one of the moft luxuriant fccnes I have met with.

1 he views of the lake and environs are very fine as you go to Boyle ; the woods unite
Into a large mafs, and contraft the bright (heet of water with their dark fhades.

The lands about Kingfton are very fine, a rich, dry, yellow, fandy loatn, the fineft
foil that 1 have feen in Ireland, all grafs, and covered with very fine bullocks, cows, and.
{heep. The fiirms rife to five hundred acres, and are generally in divifions, parted by
ftone walls, for oxen, cows, young cattle, and flicep feparate. Some of the lands will
carry an ox and a wether per acre ; rents 15s. to aos.

Dined at Boyle, and took the road to Ballyinoat ; crofted an immcnfe mountainy bog»
■where I ftopped and made enquiries ; found that it was ten miles long, and three and a
lull" over, contauiing thirty-five fquarc miles j that lime-ftonc quarries were around

andi

ni'.n :
' il'iiii

.,.j

V1:ii:i-;

"^30 young's tour in IRELAND.

and in It, and Hme-ftone gravel in many places to be found, and ufcd in the lands tli;'.t
join it : in addition to this I may add, that there is a great road eroding it ; thirty-five
miles are twenty-two thoufand ^oiir hundred acres. \Vhat an immenfe licld of imprave-
mciit! nothing would bo eafier than to drain it^ vaft trads oF land have fuch a fall, that
not a drop of water could remain. Thd'e hilly hoj;s are extremely dill'erent from any
I have feen in England. In tiie moors in the north, the hills and mouutnins are all
covered with heath, like the Iriih bogs, but they are of various foils, gravel, (hingle,
moor, &c.,and boggy only in fpots ; but the Irifli bog hills are all pure bog to a great
depth, without the lead variation oi toil ; nid the bog being of a hilly form, is a proof
that it is a growing vegetable mafs, and n^ ' owing merely to ftagnant water. Sir Lau-
rence Dundafs is the principal pmprictur ^ this.

Reached Ballymoat in tlie evening, the ■ ildencc of the Hon. Mr. Fltzmaurice, where
I expected great pleafure in viewing a m lufadory,, of which 1 heard much fince I
came to Ireland. He was lo kind as to giv me the iollowing account of it, in the n.oft
liberal manner :

" Twenty years ago the late Lord Shelbi le came to Ballytnoat, a wild uncultivated
region, without induliry or civility, and tht .-eople all Kouian Clatholics, without an
atom of a manufaflure, not even I'pinning. In order to change this llaie of things, his
Lordfhip contracted with people in the north in bring jirotellant weavers, and eltablifh
a manutaflory, as the only means of making the ihange he widiixl ; ihiswas done, but
falling into the hands ot ralcals, he lo(t 5000I. l^y the bulineis, with only feventcen pro-
tcllaiu families, and twenty-fix or twenty-feven looms eflablilhed for it. Upon his
death. Lady Shelburne willied to carry his fcheme into execution, and to do it, gave
much encouragement Hi Mr. Wakehi Id, the great Irifii faclor in Lundon, by granting
advantageous leafes, under the contrad of building and colonizing, by weavrers from the
north, and carrying on the nianufadory. He found about twenty looms, working
upon their own account, and madea confiderable progrefs in this for five years, raifing
feveral buildings, cottages for the weavers, and was going on as well as the variety of
his bufinefs would admit, employing fixty loon ^. He tlien died, when a Hand was
made to all the works ior a year, in which every thing went much to ruin. Lady Shel-
burne then employed a new manager to carry on the manufaclure ujiun his own account,
giving him very prohtable grants of lands, to encourage hiiu to do it with Ipirit. He
continued lor hve years, employing lixty looms alio ; but his circumltances failing, a
frcHi Hop was put to the work.

*' I'licn it \\as that Mr. I'itzmauricc, in the year 1774, determined to exert himfelf
ir pu/liing on a manufaelory, which promifed to be of inch elfential fervice to the
whole country, 'lo do this with eiltct, he law that it was nccelfary to take it entirely
into his own hands. He could lend nioiuy to the manager to eiialle him to goon, but
that would beat belt hazardous, and cculd never do it in the complete manner in which
he wifli(t! to eftabiiih it. In this period of confideration, Mr. Fitzuaurice was advifcd
by his friends never to engage in fo complex a luhneis as a manufacture, in which he
jnurt of necellity become a merchant ; alio engage in all the hazard, irkfoinenefs, kc,
of com.neire, lo totally diflerent from his birth, education, ideas, and puriuits ; but
tired with the inat'iivity (f common life, he detirniined not only to turn aianu'idun r,
but to carry on the buf.nefs in the molt fpiiited and vigorous manm-r that was poiliblt-.
In the hrd place, he took eviry me ns ol making himlelf a complete inafter ot the bu-
finefs; he went through various manufaduies, enquired into the miiiutije, and took
every meafurc to know it to the bottom. This he did fo repeatedly, and with fuch
attentiou in the whole progrefs, from fpiiming to blcachiiig, and felling, that he became

young's tour in irbland.

831

as thnrouj^Ti a mafter of it as an experienced manager ; he has wove linen, and done
every parr of the bufinefs with his own hands. As he determined to have the works
complete, he took Mr. Stansfield the enurincer, fo well known for his improved faw-
miils, into his pay ; he fent him over to IVillynioat, in the winter of 1774, in order ta
erect the nvirhitiery of a bleach-mill, upon the very b.'il; conftrudion ; he went to all
the gn>at mills in the north of Ireland to inipect them, to remark their deficiencies, that
they might be improved in the mills he intended to ercd. This kiiowledge beincj
giiined, the work was be;;un, and as water was neci. (lary, a great bafon was formed by
a dam acrofs a valley, by which me:ms thirty-four acres were floated, to ferve as a ro-
f'M'voir lor dry iealons to fecure plenty at all times."

Aiigult 30, rode to Rol'shill, i'oiir miles oil", a headland that proje>Si:s into the b;iy
of Newport, from which there is a mi)tt beautiful view of the bay on both fides; I
counted thirty iflands very diiliiiclly, all of them cultivated under corn and potatoes, or.
padured by cattle. At a dillance Clara riles in a very bold and pidurefque ftyle; on
the left Crow Patrick, and to the rii;ht other mountains. It is a view that wants no-
thinc; but wood.

September 5, to Drumoland, the feat of Sir Lucms O'Brien, in the county of Cbre,
a f^entleman who had been repeatedly alfidi'ous to procure me every fort of informa-
tion. I Ihould remark, as I have now lelt Galway, tliat that county, from entering it
in the road to Tuam tdl leaving it to-day, has been, upon the wiiole, inferior to moft.
of the paits 1 have travelled in Ireland in point of beauty : there are not mountains of
a magnitude to make the view flriking. It is perfectly iVee from woods, and even trees,
except about gentlemen's houfes, nor has it a variety in its face. I do not, however,
fpeak without e>:ception ; I palfed fome trads which are cheerful. Drummoland.has
a pleafing variety of grounds about the houfe ; it Itands on a hill gently riling from a
1 ik ■ of twenty-iour acres, in the middle oi a noble wood of oak, aih, poplar, &c.
throe beautiful hills rife above, over v;hlch the plantations fpread in a varied manner;
and thcfe hills command very fine views of tlie great rivers tergus and Shannon at their
juuvtion, being each of them a league wide.

'l'h>Te is a view of the Shannon from Limerick to Foynes Ifland, whicli is thirty miles,
with all Its bays, bends, illands, irnd fe;lile iliores. It is from one to three miles broad,
:i moil: noble river, delerving reg;d navies for its ornament, or, what .irc better, lieets
of merchantniei), the cheerlul figns ot iar extended co:nm.M*ce, inilead of a few luife-
ruble liliiing b la's, the only canvais that Iwelled uj)on the fcene : but (he want of com-
merce in her pons is the misforrune not the iaiilt of Ireland. Thanks for the delici-
eiicy to that illiberal Ipirit of trading joidoi.ry, which has at times actuated and dilgraced
fo utany nations. The profped has a noble outliiu; in the bold moumains of 'I'lppc-
rary, Cork, Limerick, and iv'.'rry. The whole view mignificeat.

At the ioot of this hill is ti'.e caRI -^ of Bunratty, a very large ecafice, the feat of the
O'Briens, princes ol Thomond ; it Hands on the bank of a nver, waich falls into the
Sli.mnon ni.-ar it. About this caltle and that ol Rofmanagher, the land is the bell in
the county of Clare ; it is worth il. 133. an acre, and fat^ a buliock per acre hi fum-
nicr, befidcs winter feed.

lo Limerick, through a chcarful country, on the banks of the riv;r, in a vale fur-
re unded by dill ant mountains. That city is very finely fituatjd, [larily on an iiland
formed by the Shannon. The new p.irt, called Newtown Perv, trom Mr. I'eiy the
fpeaker, who owns a conliderable part of the city, and reprellnts it in parliam^'iit, is
Wel built. I he hi)U^s are n.'W ones, of brick, large and m right lines. fa<.'. ■ i^^ a
cou muuicatiou with the relt 01 the town by a haudiomo bndj^e of three large arclvs,

creeled

nif

■•fi

.15 !.

m if

i'>]

m'M

i; 1

•3a YOUNG*S TOUR IN IRELANB.

crcfted at IVJr. Pery's ex'pcncc. Here are docks, quays, and a cuftom-houfe, which is a
good building, faces the river, and on the oppofite banks is a hrge quadrangular
oncy the houfe of induflry. This part of Limerick is very chearfiil and agreeable, and
carries all the marks of a flourifliing place.

The exports of this port are beef, pork, butter, hides, and rape-feed. The imports
arc rum, fugar, timber, tobacco, wines, coals, bark, fait, &c. The cuftoms and ex-
cift, about fixteen years ago, amounted to i6,oool., at prefent 32,000!. and rather
aiore four or five years ago.

Whole revenue - 1751 ^ 16,000

1773 51000

Revenue of the Port of Limerick^ 2'ear ending

March 25, 1759 - - I 20,494

1760 - - 29>'97

1761 - •- 20,727

1762 - - 20,630

1763 . - 20,5*25

1764 - - 32^635

1765 . - 3'»o99

Com. Jour. vol. xiv. p. 7 it

Price of Prcvifwns.

Teal, lod. a couple.

Plover, 6d. a couple.

Widgeon, lod. ditto.

Hares, is. each, commonly fold all the

year round.
Woodcocks, 2od. to 2s. 2d. a brace.
Oyftcrs, 4d. to is. a 100.
Lobders, is. to is. 6d., if good.

Wheat, IS. id. a (lone.

Ba.ley and oats, 5|d. to 6d.

Scotch coals, i8s., Wiiiteliavon, 20s.

A boat load of turf, 20 tons, 45s.

Salmon, three halfpence.

Trout, 2d. very fine, per lb.

Eelp, 2d. a pound.

Rabbits 8d. a couple.

Wild ducks, 2od. to 2s. a couple.

Land fells at twenty years' purchafe. Rents were at the higheft in 1765, fell fince, but
in four years have fallen 8s. to 1 cs. an acre about Limerick. They are at a fland at
prefent, owing to the high price of prSvifions from pafture. The number of people
in Limerick are computed at thirty two thoufand ; it is exceedingly populous for the fize,
the chief ftreet quite crowded ; many fedan chairs in town, and fome hackney chaifes.
Aflemblics the year round, in a new aflcmbly-houfe built for the purpofe, and plays
and concerts common.

Upon the whole. Limerick mud be a very gay place, but when the ufual number of
troops are in town much more fo. To fiiew the general expences of living I was told,
of a pcrfon's keeping a carriage, four horfcs, three men, three maids, a good table, a
wife, three children, and a nurfe, and all for 5cx)l. a year :

/^. /. d, £,» s. </.

A footman - « - 44010060

A profeCTod woman-cook - - - - 660

A houfe maid - • ■ • -300

A kitchen-maid • - - - • 200

Abutter • • - 10 o o to 12 o o

A barrel

TSOUNO's TOUR. IN IRELANH. 833

A barrel of beef or pork, aoolb. weight. Vefll'ls of 400 tons can corae up with fpring
tides, which rife fourteen feet.

September 9, to CaiUe Oliver ; various country, not fo rich to appearance as the
corcafles, being fed bare : much hilly Iheep-walk, and for a confiderable way a full
third of it potatoes and. corn : no (ign of di population. Juft before I got to the hills
a field of ragwort ( fciicfw jacohan) buried the cow?. The firft hill of Caflle Oliver
interefting. After rifing a mountain lo high that no one could think of any houfe, you
come in view of a vale, quite iilled ^vith hue woods, fields margined with trees, and
hedge' plantaticns climbing up the mountains. Having engaged myfelf to Mr. Oliver,
to return fioiu Killarney by his houfe, as he was confined to Limerick by the aflizes, I
flicill omit faying any thing of it at prcfent.

September 16, to Cove by water, from Mr. Trent's quay. The view of Lota is
charming ; a fine rifing lawn from the water, with noble fpreading woods reaching on
each fide ; the houfe a very pleafing front, with lawn fliooting inio the woods. The
river forms a creek between two hills, one Lota, the other opening to another hill of
iiiclofures well wooded. As the boat leaves the fliore nothing can be finer than the
view behind us ; the back woods of Lota, the houfe and lav n, and the high bold in-
clofurer, towards Cork, Ibrm the fineft fliorc imaginable, leading to Cork, the city ap-
pearing in full view, Dunkettle wooded inclofures, a fine fvveep of hill, joining Mr.
Iloare's at Factory-hill, whofe woods have a beautiful elYed. Dunkettle-houfe almoft
Jofl; in a wood. As we advance, the woods of Lota and Dunkettle unite in one fine mafs.
The flieet of water, the rifing lawns, the houfe in the moll beautiful fituation imaginable.,
with more woods above it than lawns below it, the weft fliore of Loch Mahon, a very
fine vifing hill cut into inclofures, but without wood, land-locked on every fide with
high lands, fcattered with inclofures, woods, feats. Sec. with every chearful circumftance
of lively commerce, has altogether a gre^i eifefl:. Advancing to Pafiage the fhores are
various, and the fcenery enlivened by fourfcore fail of large 'Ilnps; the little port of
Pallage at the water's edge, with the hills rifing boldly above it. The channel nar-
rows between the great ifland and the hills of Paifage. The fhores bold, and the
Ihips fcattered about them, with the inclofures hanging behind the mails and yards,
pidurcfque. Pafiing the ftreights a new bafon of the harbour opens, furrounded with
high lands. Monk's-town-caflle on the hill to the right, aiid the grounds of Bally-
bricken, a beautiful intermixed fccnv of wood and lawn. The high fliore of the har-
bour's mouth opens gradually. The whole fcene is land-locked. The firft view of
Hawl-bowling-illand and Spike-iflaiui, high rocky lands, with the channel opening to
Cove, where are a Ikvt of fliips at anchor, and Roftellan, Lord Inchiquin's houfe,
backed with hills, a Icenery that wan^s nothing but the accompani;nent of wood. The
view of Ballybrickcn changes ; it now appears to be unforHinately cut into right lines.
Arrived at the fliip at Cove, in the evening returned, leaving Mr. Jeflerys and family on
board for a voyage to Havre, in their way to Paris.

Dunkettle is one of the moll beautiful places I have fecn in Ireland. It is a hill of
fome hundred acres broken into a great variety of ground by gentle declivities, with
every where an un lulating outline, and the whole varied by a confiderable quantity of
•woo'd, which in fome places is thick enough to take th^.^ appearance of dole groves, in
others fpreads into Icattered thickets and a variety of fingle groups. This hill, or rather
duller of hills, is furrounded on one fide by a reach of Cork harbour, over which it
■looks in the mofl advantageous manner ; and on the other by an irriguous vale, through
which (lows the river Glanmire ; the oppofite fliore of that river has every variety that
can unite to form pleafing landlcapcs for the views from Dunkettle grounds ; in fome
VOL, HI. 5 o places

'■ (.'|i

<i ') lit III';

5!'!^ « '.'15'

Idi

t .tt !,l 13;!

834 Y0UNO*8 TOUR IN IRELAND.

places narrow glens, the bottoms of \A'hich are quite filled with water, and the Aeep
banks covered with tliick woods that fpread a deep fhude ; in others the vale opens to
form the fcite of a pretty chcarfiil village, overhung by hiU and wood : here the (here
rifcs gradually into large inclolures, whirh fpread over the hills, (Iretchiiig beyond each
other ; and there the vale melts again into a milder variety of fields. A hill thus fuu-
ated, and confiding in itlclf of fo much variety of furface, mufl neceflarily command
many pleafing views ; \j enjoy thefe to the better advantage, Mr. Trent (than whom
no one has a better taftf, both to difcover and defcribe the beauties of natural fcenes,)
is making a walk around the whole, which is to bend to the inequalities of the ground,
fo as to take the principal points in view. The whole is fo beautiful, that if I was to
make the regular detour, the defcription might be too minute ; but there are fome
points which gave mc fo :;uich pleafure that 1 know not how to avoid recommending
to others that travel this way to tafte the fame iatisfadion : from the upper part of the
orch;iid you look down a part of the river, where it opens into a regular bafon, one
corner ihetching up to Cork, loll behind the hill of Lota, the lawn of which breaks on
the fw.iling hills among the woods ; th^? houfe obfcured, and therefore feeming a part
of your l.iome fcene; the lofing the river behind the beautiful projedion of Lota, is
more pkafing than can be exprcfled. The ether reach, leading to the harbour's
mouth, is half hidden by the trees, which margin the foot of the hill on which you
ftand ; in front a noble range of cultivated hills, the inclofures broken by flight fpots
of wood, and prettily varied with houfcs, without being fo crowded as to take off the
rural tzl'eft. The fcene is not only beautiful in thofe common circumllances which
form a landfcapc, but is alive with the chear'".lncfs of Ihips and boats perpetually
moving. Upon the whole, it is one of the mofl luxuriant profpeds I have any where
feen. Leaving the orchard, pals on the brow of a hill which forms the bank of the
river of CJlanmire, comm.mding the oppofite woods of Lota in all their beauty. Rife to
the top of the high hill wliich joins the deer-park, and exhibits a fcene equally extenfive
and beautiful ; you look down on a vale which winds almod around at your feet, finifli-
ing to the left in Cork river, which here takes the appearance of a lake, bounded by
wood and hills, and funk in the bottom of a vale, in a (lyle which painting cannot
imitate ; the oppofite hills of Lota, wood, and lawn, feem formed as objeds for this
point of view : at your feet a hill rifes out of the vale, with higher on.s around it,
the margins fc.ittered wood ; to the right towards Riverdown, a vale ; the whole
backed by cultivated hills to Kallahan's field. Milder fcenes follow : a bird's-eye
view of a final! vale funk at your feet, through which the river flows ; a bridge of fe-
vcral arches unites two parts of a beautiful .'illage, the meadow grounds of which rife
gently, a varied furface of wood and !awn, to the hills of Riverilown, the whole fur-
rounded by delicious fweeps of ci'.'t'vated hills. To the leftj a wooiled glen rifing from
the vale to the horizon, the fcenery lequeflered, but pleafing ; the oak wood which
hangs on the deer.park hill, an addition. Down to the brow of the hill, where it hangs
over the i -ver, a pidurelque interelling ipot, 'Ihe inclofures of the oppofite bank hang
beautifully to the eye, and the wooded glen winds up the hill. Returning to the houfe
I was ror.duded to the hill, where the grounds flope off to the river of Cork, which
opens to view in uoi le reaches of a niaj^nitudc that (ills the eye and the imagination : a
whole country of a character tru.; magnificent and behind the winding vale w'lich
leads between a fcrics of hills to Gl; rmire.

Piduret

young's tour in IRELAND.

8J5

PiSlures at Diinkelfle.

A St. Michael, &c. the fubjecl confufetl, by Michael Anfrelo. A St. Francis on
>voot1, a larpe original of Guido. A St. Cecilia, original of Romanelli. An affump-
tion of the Virgin, by L. Carracci. A qiiaker's meeting, of above fifty figures, by,
Egbert llenilkork.. A lea view and rock piece, by V'.rnet. A fmall flagellation, by
Seballian del Piombo. A Madonna and CliiKI, fmall, by Reubens. The crucifixion,
many figures in miniature, excellent, though the niafter is unknown. An excellent
copy of tlie famous Danae of 'I'itian, at Monte Cavallo, near Naples, by Cioffi of Na-
ples. /\nother of the Venus of Titi.sn, at the 'L'ribuna in Florence. Another of Venus
blinding Cupid, by Titian, at the Palazzo Borghefe in Rome. Another of great merit
of thf Madonna Delia Sedia of Raphael, at the Palazzo Pitti in Florence, by Stirn, a
Ciernian lately at Ron' % Another of an holy family, from Raphael, of which there
are laid to be three originals, one at theking's palace in Naples, one in the palais royal
in Paris, and the third in the colleflion of Lord Exeter, liitely purchafed at Rome. A
portrait of Sir Patrick Trent, by Sir P. Lely. An excellent portrt.it of a perfon un-
known, by Dahl.

September 1 7, to Caftlemartyr, the feat of the Earl of Shannon, one of the moft
diIUni;uiflied improvers in Irtiand ; in whom ,1 found the niofl earned defire to give me
every fpecies of information, with a knowledge and ability which enabled him to do it
nu.'lt effeduaily. Paffed through Middleton, a well-built place, which belongs to the noble
Lord to whom it gives title. Caftlemartyr is an old houfe, but much added to by the
preknt Ear! ; he has built, befides other rooms, a dining one thirty-two feet long by
twenty-two broad, and a drawing one, the beft rooms 1 have feen in Ireland, a double
cube of twenty five feet, bving fifty long, twenty-five broad, and twenty-five high.
'I'he grounds about the houfe are very well laid out ; much wood well grown, confider-
able lawns, a river made to wind through them in a beautiful manner, an old caftle fo
ptrfeclly covered with ivy as to be a pidureique objed. A winding walk leads for
a confiderable diftance along the banks of this river, and prefents f^^veral pleafing
landfcapes

From Roftellan to Lota, the feat of Frederick Rogers, Efq. I had before feen it in
the highelt perfedion from the water going from Dunkettle to Cove, and from the
grounds of Dunkettle. Mrs. Rogers was fo obliging as to Ihew me the back grounds,
which are admirably wooded, and of a fine varied furface.

Got to Corke in the evening, and waited on the Dean, who received me with the mofl;
flattering attention. Corke is one of the moft populous places I have ever been in ; It
was n-.arket-day, and I could fcarce drive through the ftreets, they were fo amazingly
thronged : on the other days the number is very great. I (liould fuppofe it muft re-,
iemble a Dutch town, for there are many canals in the ftreets, with quays before the
honfes. The belt built part is Morrilbn's liland, which promifcs well ; the old part of
the town is very dole and dirtv. As to its commerce, the following particulars 1 owe
to Robert Gordon, Elq. the lurveyor general :

Average of nineteen Ttars* E'<poriy ending March 24, 1773.
Hides, at il. each - " - - ' C ^4»ooo

Bay and woollen yarn « » « - • 294,000

= •11

Carry forward - f^ 358,000

Butter,

!■

Sid

tOUNO*8 TOUR TN IRELANB.

Brought over

Butter, at 30?* per cwt. from 56s. to 72s.

Beef, at 20s. a barrel - - , - .

Camblets, ferges, &c. - • - . • -

Candles . - - . .

Soap - - • - « m-

Tallow - - - •

Herrings, i3 to 35,000!. all their own ...

Glue, 20 to 25,000 - - ...

Pork ... . . •

Wool to England - , . - -
Small exports, Gottcnburgh herrings, horns, hoofs, kc. feathor-beds,

palUaiTes, feathers, &;c. - . . - -

£ 358,000

i8o,ooofe
291,970

40,U00

34,220

2O,C0O
20,000
31,000

2 2, COO
64,000

l4>ooo
£ 1,100,190

Average: prices of the nineteen years on the cuflom books. All exports on thofe books
,i. ' rated at the value of the reign of Charles II. ; but the imports have a! .vays lo per
f 't on the fworn price added to them. Seventy to eighty fail of (hips belong to
Corko, Average of ihips tlut entered tlat port in thofe nineteen "ears, eight hundred
SJid 'l , y two per annum. The numb:.* of people at Corke muftered by the clergyi
by hearth-money, and by tlio number of houfes, payments to minider, average of the
three, fixty-feven tlioufand fouls, if taken before the ill of September, after that twenty
thoufand increafcd. There are foven hundred coopers in the town. Barrels all of
oak or beech, all from America : the latter for herrings, now from Gottenburgh
and Norway. The excife of Corke now no more than in Chai-les the Second's reign.
Ridiculous !

Cork old duties, in 175', produced
Now the fame

' £ 62,000
140,000

Bullocks, 16,000 head, 32,000 barrels ; 4 1 ,000, hogs; 20,000 barrels. Butter,,
22,000 firkins of half a hundred weight each, both increafe tliis year, the wholes
being

3'40,ooo firkins of butter,.

i2c,oco barrels beef.

Export of woollen yam from Corke, 300,000!. a year in the Irifh market. No wool
fmuggled, or at leal! very liule. The wool comes 10 Corke, kc. and is delivered ouc
to combers, who make it into LaiLs, Thefe balls are bought up by the I'Vench agents
at a vaft price, and exported j but even this does not amount to 40,000!. a year.

res.

Beof, 2 IS. percwt., never f.) high by 2s. 6d. ; Pork, 30s., never higher than i8s, 6d.
owing to the army demand. Slaughter dung, 8(1. for a horfe load. Country la' ourer,
6d., about town, icd. Milk, ieven pints a penny. Coals, 3s. 8d. to 5s. a barrel, fix.
of which make a ton. F.ggs, four a penny.

Corke labourers. Cellar ones, twenty thoufand ; have :s. ul. a day, nnd as much
bread, beef, and beer as they caii eal and drink, and Icvcn pounds of offals a week

for

YOTTNOV TOUR IN IRELAN8.

for tReir families. Rent for their houfe, 40s. Mafon and carpenters' labourers icd.
a day. Sailors now 3I. a month and provifions : before the American war 289. Por-
ters and coal-heavers paid by the great. State of the poor people in general incompa-
rably better off than they were twenty years ago. There are imported eighteen thou-
fand barrels annually of Scotch hernngs, at i8.s. a barrel. The fait for the«beef trade
comes fram Litbon, St. Ube's, &c. The fait tor the filh trade from Rochelle : for
butter Knglilh and Irifh.

Particulars of the woolhn fabricks of the county of Cork received from a manufac-
turer. The woollen trailc, fcrges and tamblets, ratteens, frizes, druggets, and narrow
cloths, the laft they make to los.and 12s. a yard; if they might export to 8s. they are
very clear that they could get a great trade for the woollen manifadturesof Corke ; the
T'ool comes from Galway and Rofcommon, combed here by combers, who earn 8s. to
JOS. a week, into balls 'of twenty-four ounces, which is Tpun into worlteds of twelve
fkains 10 the ball, and exported to Yarmouth for Norwich ; the export price, 30I. a
pack, to 33I. never before fo high ; average of them a6l. to 30I. Some they work up
at home into ferges, (lulfs, and camblets ; the fergcs at lad. a yard, thirty-four inches
wide J the fluffs fixteen inches, at 18 J., the camblets at 9|d. to 13d. ; the fpinners at
(jd. a ball, one in a week ; or a ball and half 1 2d. a week, and attend the family be-
fides ; this is done mofl: in Waterford and Kerry, particularly near Kiliarney ; the
weavers earn is. a day on an average. Full threc-fourths of the wool is exported in
yarn, and only one-fourth worth worked up. Half the wool of Ireland is combed^
in the county of Corke,

A very great manufadlure of ratteens at Carr!c-on-fure, the bay worflcd is for ferges,
fhalloons, &c. Woollen yarn for coarfe cloths, which latter have been loll for Ibm-j
■years, owing to the high price of wool. The bay export has declined fmce 1770*
which decleiifion is owing to the high price of wool.

No wool fmuggled, not even from Kerry, not a Hoop's cargo in twenty years, the
price too high ; the decleufion has been confiderable. For every eighty-fix packs that
arc exported, a licence from the Lord Lieutenant, for which a'ol. is paid.-

From the aft of the lait fi'ifions of Great Britain for e,\porting woollen goods for
the troops in the pay of Ireland, Mr. Abraham Lane, of Corke, eflablifhed a new ma*
nufadure of army cloathing for that piirpofe, which is the firft at Corke, and pays 40I.-
:i week in labour only. Upon the whole there has been no increafe of woollen manu-
fifture within twenty years Is clearly of o]Mnion that many fabricks might be worked
up here much cheaper than in France, of cloths that the French have t\'at the Kngiini
out of; thele are, particularly, broad-cloths of one yard and half-y,\rd wide, from js.
to 6s. 6d. a yard for the Levant trade. Frizes which are now lupplied from Garcaf-
fone in Languedoc. Frizer, of twenty four to twenty-feven inches, at loJ. to 13d. a
yard. Flannels, twenty-feven to thirty-fix, from 7d. 10 i4d. Serges of twenty feven
to thirty-fix inches, at 7d. to i2d. ayard; ihefe would work up the coarfe wool,.
At Ballynailoe t.'ir, in July, 2oo,oool. a year bought in wool. Tliere is a manufactory
of knit-llotking by the counnon women about Coi'k, for eight or ten miles around ;.
the yarn from i zd. to i8d. a pair, and the worffed, from i6d. to 2od. and earn from'
1 2d. to i8d. a week. IJefides their own confumption, great quautities are feat to the-
nonh of Ireland.

All tlie weavers in the country are confined to towns, have no land, but imall [^ar-
Jens, handle or narrow linen, for home confumption, is made in tlie vvellern part of
the county. Generally fpeaking, the circumllances of all the manuia^hiring poor are
better tlian they were twenty years ago. The maaufatlures have not declineil, though

tha.

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Hit

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w:^r^

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young's tour in IRELAND.

the exportation ha!«, owing to the increaled home confumptions. Bandon was once the
the feat of the Auff, camblet, and (hai^ nianufadure, but has in Icvcn years declined above
three-fourths. Have changed it for the manufadure of coarfe green linens, for the
London market, from 6d. to gd. a yard, twenty feven inches wide ; but the number of
inanufafKirtsin general much lefTened.

Rode to the mouth of Cork harbour ; the grounds about it are all fine, bold, and
varied, but fo bare of trees, that there is not a fmglf view but what pains one in the
want of wood. Rents of the trad fouth of the river Caragoline, from 5s. to 30s. ave-
rage, 10s. Not one man in five has a row, but generally irom one to four acres, upon
which they have potator's, and five or fix fliecp, which they milk, and fpin their wool.
Labour fd. in winter, 6d. in fummcr ; ma y of them for throe months in the year live
on potatoes r.nd water, the reil of it they have a good deal of filh. But it is remarked,
at Kinfalc, that when I'prats are molt plentiful, tlifeales are mort common. Rent for a
niere cabin ics. Much paring and burning; p;\ring twenty-eight men a day, low wheat
on it and then potatoes ; get great crops. The foil a iharp ftoney land ; no lime-
flone fouth of the above river. Manure for potatoes, with fea weed for 26s., which
gives good crops, but lafls only one year. Sea land much ufed, no fhells in it. Farms
rife to two or thrte hundred acres, but arc hired in partnerfliip.

Before 1 quit the environs of Cork, I nuill remark, that the country on the harbour,
I think preforab'e, in many refpeds for a refidence, to any thing I have fecn in Ireland.
Firft, it is the moll foutht ily part of the kingdom. Second, there are very great beau-
ties of profped. Third, by much the molt animated, bufy fcene of Ihipping in all Ire-
land, and conlequeiitly, fourih, a ready price lor cvt-ry produd. Fifth, great plenty of
excellent fifii and wild fowl. Sixth, the neighbourhood of a great city for objtds of
convenience.

September 25. Took the road to Nedeen, through the wildell region of mountains
that I remember to have fcen ; it is a dreary, but an interelting road. The various
horrid, grotefque, and unulual forms in which the mountains rife and the rocks bulge ;
the inmienle taight of lome diftant heads, which rear above all the nearer fcenes, the
torrents roaring in the vales, and breaking down the mountain fides, with here and there
a wretched cabin, and a fpot of culture yieKling furprife to find human beings the inha-
bitants of fuch a fcene of wildnels, altogettier keep the traveller's mind in an agitation
and fufpence. 1 hefe rocks and nrountains are many of them no otherwife improvea le
than by phmting, for which, however, they are exceedingly well adapted.

Sir John Colthurit was fo obliging as to fend half a dozen labourers with me, to help
my chaile up a mountain fide, of which he gave a formidable account : in truth it deferved
it. 1 he road leads diretlly againft a mountain ridpe, and ihole who made it were lb incre-
dibly llupid, that they kept thellrait line up the hill, ini ead of turning afide to the right,
to wind around a projection of it. The pa'h of the road is worn by torrents into »
channel, wliieh is blocked up in places t y huge fragments, lo that it wouLI be a horrid
road on a level ; but on a hill fo Iteep, that the b It path would be difficult toufcend. it
may be fuppofed terrible: the labourers, two palling Itrangers, and my fervant, couKl
with difficulty gtt the chaile up. It is much to be regretted that the direction of tho
road is not chaivged, as all the relt from C'ork to Nedeen is good enough. For a few
riiles tov.-ards the latter place the cotmtry is flat on the river Kenmare, much of itjiood,
and under grals or corn. Palfed Mr. Orpine's at Ardtilly, and another of the lame
came at Killowen.

Needen is a little town, very well fituated, on the noble river Kenmare, where fliips
of unc hundred and fifty tons may come up : there arc but three or four good houfe^.

4 Lord

young's tour in IRELAND. 839

Lord Shelbume, to whom the place belongs, has built one for his agent. There is a
vale of good land, which is here from a mile and a half to a mile broad ; and to the
north and fouth, great ridges of mountains faid to be full of mines.

At Nedcen, Lord Shelburne had taken care to have me well informed by his people
in that country, which belongs for the greateft part to himfclf, he has above one hun-
dred and fifty tho':',^nd Irilh acres in Kerry j the greatcll part of the barony of Glan-
rought belongs to ii.rn mod of Duiikerron and Ivragh. The country is all a region of
mountaii's, inclofcd by a vale of fl?t land on the river ; the mountains to the fouth come
to the water's edge, with but few variations, the principal of which is Ardoe, a farm of
Lord Shelburne's : to the north of the river, the flat land is one-half to three quarters
of a mile broad. The mountains to the fouth reach to Bear-haven, and thole to the
north to Dingle-bay ; the foil is extremely various ; to the fouth of the river all are
fand ftones, and the hills loam, (lone, gravtl, and bog. To the north there is a flip of
lime-ftone land, from Kilgarvon to Cabi a-cufh, that is fix miles ea(l of Nedeen, and
three to the well, but is not more than a quarter of a miL* broad, the reft including the
mountains all fand (lone. As to its rents, it is very diflicult to tell what they are ; for
land is let by the plough lane' an i ^inevc, twelve gineves to the plough land; but tho
la'frr dcdomination is not of any particular quantity : for no two plough lands are the
fn 1' '. The fize of farms is various, . rom forty acres to one thoufand, lels quantities
go A'ith cabins, and fome farms are taken by labourers in partnerlhip.

Soon entered the wildeR and moft romantic country I had any where foon ; a region
of fteep rocks and mountains, which continued for nine or ten miles, till I came in view
of Mucrafs. There is fomething magnificently wild in this Ihipcndous fcenery, formed
to imprefs the mind with a certain fpecics of terror. All this trad has a rude and lavage
air, but parts of it arc llrikingly intcrefting ; the mountains are bare and rocky, and
of a great magnitude ; the vales are rorky glens, where a mountain-llreatn tumbles
along the rougheft bed imaginable, ;uiJ receives many torrents, pouring from clefts,
half overhung with flirubby wood ; fomc of thefe llreams are fcen, an.l the roar of
others heard, but hid by valt maifcs of rock. Immonle fragments, torn from the pre-
cipices by ftornis and torrents, are tumbled in the wildefl confufion, and feem to hang
rather than reft upan projeding precipices. Upon ibme of thcle fragments of rock,
perfedly detached from the foil, cxcep "v the fide on which tlu'y lie, are beds of black
turf, with luxuriant crops ot heath, &c. Iiich appeared very curious to me, having no
where feen the like ; and I obferved v. ry 'a ji in the mountains, much hi^Iier than any
cultivation is at prefent, on the right h ud, flat and cleared fpacos of good grafs among
the ridges of rock, which had probably been cultivated, and proved that ihei'e mountains
were not incapable from climate of being applied to ufeful pin-pofes.

From one of thefe heights,] looked forward to the lake of Kdlarncy at a confulcrabltj
diftance, and back'vard to the river K'nmare; came in view of a fmall part of the up.
per lake, fpotted with fe^'eral iflands, a ui furrounded by the molt tremendous moiiii.
tains that can be imagined, of an alpL-ct favage and dreadful. From this I'cene of wild
magnificence.^ I broke at once upon all uic glories of Kill.iriicy ; from an elevaud
point of view I looked down on a confiderable part of the lak-.\ which gave me a fpeci-
men of wiiat I might exped. The water you command (which, however, is only a
part of the lake) appears a bafon of two cr three miles round ; to the left it is inclofed
by the mountains you have parted particularly by tho Turk, whole outline is uncom.
rnonly noble, and joins a range of others, that form the moft magnificent fliore iu the
world : on the other fide is a rifing fcenery of cultivated hills, and Lord Kcnmare's
park and woods j the end of the lake at your feel i& formed by the root of Mangerton,

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YOUN'o'a TOUR IN IRELAND.

on whofc fidt the roati Itwils. Vrom hence I looked down on a pretty range of hiclo-
fiiroson tliL' lake, and the wood and lawns ot Mucriif-*, forming a lar^^e jM-omontory (,f
thick wjod, (hootinpj far into 1 idkc. The nioft adiv<» fancy can (k 'tch nothing \u
iiddiL; • 1. lilands ot wood bev'-d leom to join it, and readies of thr l.ik.\ breaking
partly between, give t'.c muK lively intermixture of water : lis or ' n ilios and
jilers form an accompaniment, lome are rficky, but with a flight vcfref .tiusi, others con-
t;iin groups of trees, and the whole thrown into forms, whicli would fur n(h new ideas
to a painter. 1" .rther is a chain ot woodod ilbnds, which alio appear to ^ in tlie main,
land, with an oflspring of lellcr ones fcattered around.

Arrived at Mr. Ih rheri's at Mucrufs, to wholi- friendly attention I owed my fuc-
ccedinp plcafure. '1 here have been fo many ilLlcriptions of K';llarnc\ wiiiteu by ji.-u-
tlenien who have refided fome time there, and feen it at every le.ilon, that for a pailiiit^
traveller to att nipt the like, would bf in vain; for this rialon I fliall gi/e the mtro
journal of the remarks I made on the Ipot, in the oriler I view'cd the lake.

September 27, walked into Mr. Herbert's beautiful grounds, to Oroch's hill, in the
lawn that he has cleared from that profufion of Hones which lie under the wall ; the
Icene which this point commands is iruly delicious ; the houle is on tlie edifo of the
lawn, by a wood which covers the whole peninlula, fringes the flopo at your feet, and
forms H beautiful fliore to the lal^e. lomis andGlena are valt njountaiiioiis m.ifles of
incredible magnificence, the outline foft and eafy in its iwvlls, wliereas lUufe above the
eagle's ncft arc of fo broken and abrupt an outline, that nothing can be imagined more
favage, an afpcd honid and fublime, that gives all the impnllions to be wilhed to
adonifli rather than pleafe the mind. 'The 'lurk exhibits noble teaiarcs, and Manger-
ton's huge body riies above the whole. The cultivated tracts towards Killarncy, form
a fliore in contrad to the terrilic feenes I have jull iiuntioncl ; the diltant boundary cf
the lake, a valt ridge of diftant blue mountains tmvards Dingle. From hence entered
the" garden, and viewed Mneiufs abbey, one of the mod interelting fcencs I ever faw ;
it is the ruin of a confui la'-./ -• ^bbey, built in Henry the Vlth's time, and fo entire, that
if it were more fo, th> ,. J; she building would be more perlict, the ruin would be lefs
pleafing ; it is half obicurfd m the Ihade of fome venerable afli crees ; ivy has given the
picturefque circumlhince, s^luch that plant alone can confer, while the broken walls and
ruined turrets throw over it

Tlie lull moin-iiful graces of ilecay ;

heaps of fculls anil bones fcattered about, with nettles, briars, and weeds fprouting in
ttifws from the loofe Hones, all unite to raile thofc melancholy impreffions, whicii are the
merit of fuch feenes, and which can fcarcely any where be felt more completely. The
cloiders form a difmal area, in the center of which grows the mod prodigious yew tree
I ever beheld, in one great Hem, two feet diameter, und fourteen feet high, from whence
a vad head of branches fpreads on every fid< , lb as to pe'-form a pcrfeft canopy to the
.whole fpacc ; I looked for its fit inhabitant, it is a Ipot where

The moping owl ihith to tlie moon complHin.

This ruin is in the true ftile in which all fuch buildings fliould appear ; there is not an
intruding circumdance, the handof dreis has n6t touched it, melancholy is the impref-
fion which fuch feenes (hould kindle, and it is here railed moft powerfully.

From the abbey we padkl to the terrace, a natural one of grafs, on the very fliore of
the lake ; it is irregular and winding ; a wall of rocks broken into fantaltic forms by
the waves : on the other fide a wood, confiding of all forts of plants, which the climate

1 2 can

vouKo'a TOUR m jrelani*.

S41

<an protefl, and tIiroii<^li which a vark-iy of wallc; are I \ced. liho view from this forracc
cojiliflsof niaiiv parlsol various char iclcrs, but in il)- ir (iillVrcnt lUIca coinpki ; the lake
opens a fprcadiiij; Iheet of vatcr, Ipottcd by rocks and iflandf:, ,dl but ore or two wooded,
the outlines ot thcni are (liarp -and dillindt ; notliing can be more i'luiling tii.ji this
fcene, foft and mild, a pcrfeti contraft of beauty to the lubliniiry of the mountains
\vhich form the fliorc: ihcf;; rii'e in an outliiir*, fo varied, and at tl.o far-i^ lirne fo mag-
nificent, that nothinf; j^realer can be imarined ; \ omys and Glonu, cxhi'jit an immenfity
in point of magnitude, but from a larj^^e hai!!:;ing wood ou the Hope, and frc in the
fmoot! nefs of the gciural iurfacc, it has nothing favagi', whereas the mountain;- above
andniarthe eagle'vS nell ai of the i^n(l broken outlines ; the declivities ar- bulp[ing
rocks, of imnienle fize, which (0 m ' jnj iu horrid forms over the lak^', and where

an opening among them is caught, oil ' 'he fame rude character rear their threat-

ening heads. From ''tferent part-- ol
varieti; s.

Returned to breakfafl:, and pun ic.
through tilt pfninfula to Dynis ifland,

ce thefe fcenes are viewed in numberlc-r

Herbert's new road, wl'ch he has traced
los iji length ; and it is r rried in fo judi-
c.iou.Ja manner through a gnat v.iricty 1 1 gr :und, rocky woods, lawny, (vC. tliat nothing
can bo more plealhig ; it pafTes through a remarkable i'cene of rocks, whicli are covered
viih woods ; Irom thence to the marble quarry, which Mr. Herbert is working ; and
where he gains variety of marbles, green, red, white, and brov.r prettily veined ; the
quarry is a fhore of rocks, w hich furround a bay of the lake, and forms a fcene, confilling
of but few parts, init thole ftrongly marked ; t! 0 rocks are bold, and broken into flight
caverns; they are fringed with fcattcrcd trees, and from many paits of them wood
flioots in that ro'uantic manner, fo common at Killarney. I'ull in front, Turk moun-
tain rifeswith the prouded outline, in that abrupt magniiicence which hlls up the whole
ipacc befoi'e one, and doles the fcene.

The road leads by a place where copper-mines were worked ; many fliafts appear ;
as much ore was railed as fold for twenty-five thoufand pounds, but the works wcie laid
afide, more Irom ignorance in the workmen, than any defeds in the mine.

Came lo llie op;ning on tlie great lake, which appears to advantage hcrCj the town
of Killarney on the nonh-ealt (here. Look full on the mountain Glena, which riles in
very bold manner, the hanging woods Ipread half way, and are of great extent, and un-
commonly beautiiul. 'J'wo very pleafing fcenes fucceed, that to the left is a Imall bav,
hemmed in by a neck of land in front ; the immediate (hore rocks, which are in a pic-
turefque (tile, and crowned entirely with arbutus, and other wood ; a pretty retired
fcene, where a vaii.ty of objeds give no fatigue to the eye. The other is an admirable
mixture of the beautiful and fublime : a bare rock, of an alinofl regular figure, projcds
from a headland into the lake, which, with much wood and highland,ifornis one fide of
the fcene, the other is wood from a rifiiig ground only ; llie lake open between, in a
flieet of no great extent, but in front is the hanging wood of Glena, which appears in
full glory.

Mr. Herbert has built a handfoine Gothic bridge, to unite the peninfula to the ifland
of I'rickeen, through the arch of which the waters of the north and i'outh lake How. It
is a fpan of twenty- i'evcn feet, and ieventcen high, and over it the road leads to that iflamh
From thence to lirickecn ncaily finiflied, and it is to be thrown acrofs a bottom into
Dynifs.

Returned by the northern path through a thick wood for fome difiancc, and cau^Iit
a very agreeable view of Alh Ifland, fein through an opening, inclofed on both fides
with wood. Purfued the way from thefe grounds to K.eelbeg, and viewed the bay of

VOL. HI. 5 p the

. S'illiuiL

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IMAGE EVALUATION
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YOUNo'a TOUR m laKLAND.

the Devil's Ifland, which is a beautiful one, inclofed by a fliore, to the right of very nobI«
rocks in ledges and other forms, crowned in a ftriking manner with wood; a little
rocky iflet rifes in front ; to the. left the water opens, and Turk mountjin rifes with that
proud fuperiority which attends him in all ihcfe fceues.

The view of the promontory of Dindog, near this place, clofes this part of the lake,
and is indeed fingularly beautiful. It is a large rock, which Ihoots far into the water,
of a height fuflicient to be interefting, in full relief, fringed with a fcanty vegetation ; the
fhore on which you Hand bending to the right, as if to meet that rock, prefentsa circu-
lar (hade of dark wood : Turk Hill the back ground, in a character of great fublimity,
and RIangerton's loftier fuinmit, but lefs interelling outline, a part of the fcenery,
Thefe views, with others of Id's moment, are conneded by a fucceilion of lawns break-
ing among the wood, pleafmg the eye with lively verdure, aud*relieving it from the fa-
tigue of the ftupondous mountain fcencs.

September 28. Took boat on the la^;;e, from the promontory of Dindog before-men-
tioned. I had been under a million of apprehenfions that I fliould fee no more of Kil-
larney ; for it blew a furious ilonn alL night, and in the morning the bofoui of the laki
heaved wirh agitation, exhibiting few marks but thofe of anger. After breakfait it
cleared up, the clouds dilpcrfcd by degrees, tlie waves fubfiJed, the fun flioneout in all
its fplendor ; every fcene was gay, and no ideas but pleafure poffeffed the brealh With
thefe emotions faliied forth, nor did they difappoint us.

Rowed under the rocky fliore of Dindog, which is romantic to a great degree. The
bafe, by the beating of the waves, is worn into caverns, fo that the heads of the rocks
project confiderably beyond the bafe, and hang over in a manner which makes every
part of it interciling. Following the coafi:, open marble quarry bay, the lliore great
fragments of rock tumbled about in the wildell: manner.

The iiland of rocks agniiifl the copper-niine fliore, a remarkable group. The fliore
near Cafemilan is of a different nature ; it is wood in fome places, in unbroken maflos
down to the water's edge, in others divided from it by fmaller trads of rock. Come
to a beautiful land-locked bay, furrounded by a woody lliore, which, opening in places,
fliews other wjods n;ore retired. Tomys is here viewed in a unity of form, whicii
gives it an air of great magnificence. Turk was obfcured by the fun (hining iminedi-
atfly above him, and calling a Oreani of burning light on the water, dilplayed an effed,
to defcribe which the pencil of a Claude alone would be equal. Turn out of the bay,
ami gain a full view of the Eagle's NeiV, the mountains above it, anil Glena, they form
a perfcjfl: contrail, the firlt are rugged, but Glena mild. Here the Ihoreis a continued
wood.

Pafs tlie bridge, and crofs to Dynif?, an iiland Mr. Herbert has improved in the mofl
agreeabl'j manner, by cutting walks through it, that command a variety of viewy. One of
thefe paths on the banks of the channel to the upper lake, is Iketched with f^eat talte ;
it is on one fide walled v.ith natural rocks, from the clefts of which fliootathoufand fine
arbutus's, that hang in a ricli foliai;e of llowers and fcarlct berries ; a turf bench in a
delicious fpot ; the fcene dole and fequeitered, jull enough to give every pleafing idea
annexed to retirement.

P.illing the bridge, by a rapid Rreatn, came prefently to the Eric's Nefl : having
viewed this reck from ph'.ces where it appears only a part of an object much greater
than itfcU, i had conceived an idea that it did not dercrvc the appiaufcj given ir, but upon,
coming near, 1 was much furprizod ; the approach is wond'.rfully fine, the river leads
directly to Irs fdot, and does not give the turn till immediately under, by which means
the view is much more grand than it could othersvife bej it is nearly perpendicular,

1 1 and

VOUNo's TOUR IN IRELAND.

843

and rifes m fuch full majefty, with fo bold an outline, and fuch projeftlng niaffes in its
centre, that the magnificence of the ohje£l is complete. The lower part is covered
with wood, and fcattered trees climb almoft to the top, which (if trees can be amifs in
Ireland) rather weaken the impreflion raifed by this noble rock ; this part is a hanging
wood, or an objeft whofe character is perfeft beauty ; but the upper fcene, the broken
outline, rugged fides, and bulging mafles, all are fublime, and fo powerful, that fubli-
mity is the general impreflion of the whole, by overpowering the idea of beauty raifed
by the wood. This immenfe height of the mountains of Killarney may be eftimated by
tliisrock; from any didant place that commands it, it appears the lowed crag of a vaft
chain, and of no account ; but on a clofe approach it is foundto command a very dif-
ferent refpeft.

Pafs between the mountains called the Great Range, towards the upper lake. Here
Turk, which has fo long appeared with a figure perfeftly interefting, is become, from
a different pofition, un unmeaning lump. The reft of the mountains, as you pafs, af-
fume a varied appearance, and are of a prodigious magnitude. The fcenery in this
channel is great and wild in all its features ; wood is very fcarce ; vad rocks feem
tofled in confufion thrguglrthe narrow vale, which is opened among the mountains for
the river to pafs. Its banks are rocks in an hundred forms ; the mountain fides are
every where fcattered with them. There is not a circumftance but is in unifon with the
wild grandeur of the fcene.

Coleman's Eye, a narrow pafs, opens a difterent fcenery. Came to a region in which
the beautiful and the great are mixed without offence. '1 he iflands are moft of them
thickly wooded ; Oak ifle in particular rifes on a pretty bafe, and is a moft beautiful
objeft : Mac Gilly Cuddy's reeks, with their broken points ;• Baum, with his perfeft
cone ; the Purple mountain, with his broad and more regular head ; and Turk, having
aflumed anew and more interefting afpeQ, unite with the oppofite hills, part of which
have fome wood left on them, to form a fcene uncommonly ftriking. Here you look
back on a very peculiar fpot ; it is a parcel of rocks which crofs the lake, and form a
gap that opens to diftant water, the whole backed by Turk, in a ftile of the higheft
grandeur.

Come to Derry Currily, which is a great fweep of mountain, covered partly with
wood, hanging in a very noble manner, but part cut down, much of it mangled, aiid
the reft inhabited by coopers, boat-builders, carpenters, and turners, a facrilegious tribe,
who have turned the Dryados from their ancient habitations. The cafcade here is a
fine one ; but pafled quickly from hence to fcenes unmixed with pain. .

Row to the clufter of the Seven Iilands, a little archipelago ; they rife very boldly
from the water upon rocky bafes, and are crowned in the moft beautiful manner with
wood, among which are a number of arbutus's ; the channels among them opening to
new fcenes, and the great amphitheatre of rock and mountain that furround them, unite
to form a noble view.

Into the river, at the very end of the lake, which v.'inds towards Mac Gilly Cultiy's
Recks in fanciful meanders.

Returned by a cmirfe fomewhat different, through tlie Seven Iflunds, and back to the
Eagle's Neft, viewing the fcenes already mentioned in new pofitions. At that nob'e
rock fired three cannon for the echo, which indeed is prodigious ; the report docs not
confift of direft reverberations from one rock to another with a paufe between, but has
an exa£b refemblance to a peal of thunder rattling behind tlic rock, as if travollini; the
whole fcenery we had viewed and loft in the immenfitv of Mac Gilly Uuddy's Reeks. ,

5 p s Returning

ill:

(44 Y00NO*S TOUR IN IRELAND.

Returning through the bridge, turn to the left round Dynifs ifland, under the wooJs
of GienS j open on the cultivated country beyond the town of Killarney, and come
gradually in fight of Innisfallen and Rofs IHand.

Pafs near to the wood of Glen^, which here takes the appearance of one immenfe
fweep hanging in the mod beautiful manner imaginable, on the fide of a vafl mountain
to a point, fhooting into the great lake. A more glorious fcene is not to be imagined.
It is one deep mafs of wood, conipofed of the richelt fliades perfeftly dipping in the
water, without rock or O^rand appearing, not a break in the whole. The eye pufling
upon the flieet of liquid filver fome didiince, to meet fo entire a fweep of every tint that
can compofe one vaft mafs of green, hanging to fuch an extent as to fill not only the
eye but the imagination, unites in the whole to form the moft noble fcene that is any
where to be beheld.

Turn under the north Ihore of Mucrufs ; the lake here is one great expanfe of wa-
ter, bounded by the woods defcribed, the iflands of Innisfallen, Rofs, &c. and the penin<
fula. The fiiore of Mucrufs has a great variety ; it is in fome places rocky, huge mafles
tumbled from their bafe lie beneath, as in a chaos of ruin. Great caverns worn under
them in a variety of ftrange forms ; or elfe covered with woods of a variety of (hades.
Meet the point of Ardnagluggen (in Englilh where the water daflies on the rocks) and
come under Ornefcope, a rocky headland of a moft bold projection hanging many yards
over its bafe, with an old weather-beaten yew growing from a Uttle bracket of rock,,
from which the fpot is called Ornefcope, or yew broom.

Mucrus gardens prefently open among the woods, and relieve the eye, almoft fa-
tigued with the immenfe objefts upon which it has fo long gazed ; thefe fofter fcenes of
lawn gently fwelling among the (hrubs and trees, finifhed the fecond day.

September 29, rode after breakfafl to Mangerton Cafcade and Drumarourk Hill,
from which the view of Mucrufs is uncommonly pleafing.

Pafs the other hill, the view of which I defcribed the 27th, and went to Colonel
Huffy's monument, from whence the icone is different from the reft ; the fore ground
is a gentle hill, interfered by hedges, forming feveral fmall lawns. There are fome
fcattered trees and houfes, with Mucrufs ^bbcy half obfcured by wood, the whole
chearful and backed by Turk. 'Ihe lake a iriangular form, Rofs ifland and Innis-

fallen its limits, the woods of Mucrufs aii . iflands take a new pofition.

Returning, look a boat again towards Rofs ifle, and as Mucrufs retires from us,
nothing can be more beautiiul than the fpots of lawn in the terrace opening in the wood;
above it the green hills with clumps, and the whole tinifliing in the noble group of wood
about the abbey, which here appears a deep fliade, and fo fine a finifliing one, that not
a tree fhould be touched. Rowed to the ealt point of Rofs, which is well wooded,
turn to the fouth coaft. Doubling the point, the moft beautiful ftiorc of that ifland
appears; it is the well-wooded environs of a bay, except a fmall opening to the caltle ;
the woods are in deep fliades, and rife on the regular flopes of a high range of rocky
coaft. The part in front of Filekilly point rifes in the middle, and finks towards each
end. The woods of Tomys here appear uncommonly fine. Open Innisfallen, which
is compofed at this diftance of the molt various fliades, within a broken outline, entirely
different from the other iflands, groups of different mafles rifing in irregular tufts, and
joined by lower trees. No pencil could mix a happier affemblage. Land near a mife-
rable room, where travellers dine — Of the ifle of Innisfallen, it is paying no great coni-
pUment to fay, it is the moft beautiful in the King's dominions, and perhaps in Europe.
\t contains twenty acres of laod, and has every variety that the range of beauty, un-
mixed

VOUNO'b tour in IRELANT).

8^5=

mixed with the fubliiiip, can give. The general feature is that of 'vood ; the furface
undulates into fwelling hills, and finks into little vales ; th'; flop; s are in every diredion,
the declivities die gently away, forming thofe flight inequalities which arc the groateft
beauty of drefled grounds. The little valiics let in views of the furrounding lake be-
tween the hills, while the fwells break the regular outline of the water, and give lo the
whole an agreeable confufion. '1 he wood has all the variety into which nature has
thrown the furface; in fome parts it is fo thick as to appear impenetrable, and feclude»
all farther view ; in others, it breaks into tufts of tall timber, under which cattle feed.
Here they open, as if to offtr to the fpedator the view of the naked lawn ; in others
clofe, as if purpofely to forbid a more prying examination. Trees of large fize, and
commanding hgure, form in fome places na'ural arches; the ivy mixing with the
branches, and hanging acrofs in fcftoons of foliage, while on one fide the lake glitters
among the trees, and on the other a thick glocm dwells in the rcc ffes of the wood.
The figure of the ifland renders one part a beautiful object to another ; for the coaft
being broken and indented, forms bays furrounded either with rock or wood : flight
promontories fhoot into the lake, whofe rocky edges are crowned with wood. Thefc
are the groat features of Innisfallen ; the flighter touches are full of beauties eafily ima-
gined by the reader. Every circumlhmce of the wood, the water, the rocks, and lawn,
are charafteridic, and have a beauty in the kiflemblage from mere difpofition. 1 mult
however obfcrve, that this delicious n treat is not kept as one could wilh.

Scenes that are great and commanding, from magnitude or wildnefs, fliould never be
drefled ; the rugged, and even the horrible, may add to the effect upon the mind : but
in fuch as Innisfallen, a degree of drefs, that is, cleanlinefs, is even necofllitry to beauty.
I have fpoken of lawn, but I (hould obfervc, that exprellion indicates what it ought to
be, rather than what it is. It is very rich grafs, poached by oxen and cows, the only
inhabitants of the ifland. No fpeOator of taile but will regret the open grounds not
being drained with hollow cuts : the rugj^ecliiefs of the furf ice levelled, and the grafs
kept clofe Ihaven by many fhecp initead of beafl:s. The bufiies and briars, where thoy
have encroached on what ought to be lawn, cleared away ; fome parts of the i(le inoro
opened -, in a word, no ornaments given, foV the fcene wants thcni not, but obdruftions
cleared, ruggedntfs fmnothcd,and the whnle cleaned. This is what o;i,!^',t to be done j
as to what might be made of the ifland, if its noble proprietor (Lord Kcnniarc) had an
inclination, it admits of being converted into a tcrreftnal paradife, lawning with the in-
termixture of other llirubs and wood, and a little drefy, vvjukl make it an exainple of
what ornamented grounds might be, but which not one in a thoul'and is. Take the
ifland, however, as it is, with its few imporfedions, and where are we to find fuch
anothtr ? What a delicious retreat ! an emperor could not bellow fuch an one as Innis-
fallen ; with a cottage, a few cows, and a Iwarm of poultry, is it poflible that happincfs
fhould refufe to be a guefl: here ? ».

Row to Rols CalUe, in order to coaft that ifland ; ihere is nothing peculiarly ftriking
in it ; return the fame way around IniHsfallen : in this lirtl.' voyage the Ihore of Rols is
one of the molt beautiful of the wooded ones in the lake ; it feeras to unite with Innis-
fallen, ami projedts into the water in thick woods one beyond another. In the middle
of the channel a large rock, and from the other Ihore a Hitle promontory of a few feat-
tend trees ; the whole fcene pKafing.

The fliore of Innisfallen has much .aricty, but in general it is woody, and of the beau-
tiful character which predominates in that ifland ; one bay, at raki g l.ave of it, is ex-
ceedingly pretty, it is a femicircular one, and in the centre there is a projecting knolc-of
wood witliin a bay ; this is uncommon, and has an agreeable effect.

5 The

$4^ VOUMo'a TOUR IN IRELAND.

The near approach to Tomys exhibits a fweep of wood, fo great in extent, and fo
rich in foliage, that no perfon can fee without admirinp it. The mountainous part
above is foon excluded by the approach ; wood alone is feen, and that in fuch a noble
range, as to be greatly ftriking ; it juft hollows into a bay, and in the centre of it is a
chafni in the wood ; this is a bed of a confiderable ftrcam, which forms O'Sullivan's
cafcaJo, to which all Grangers are condu(5ted, as one of the principal beauties of Killar-
ncy. handed to the right of it, and walked under the thick (hade of the wood, over a
rocky declivity, clofeto the torrent ftrcam, which breaks impetuoufly from rock to rock,
with a roar that kindles cxpcftation. The pidure in your fancy will not exceed the
reality ; a great Uream burds from the deep bofom cf a wooded glen, hollowed into a
retired recefs of )"ocks and trees, itfelf a moft p'eafing and romantic fpot, were there
not a drop of water: the firft fall is many feet perpendicularly over a rock, to the eye
it immediately makes another, the bafon into which it pours being concealed ; fron\
this bafon it forces ilfclf impetuoufly between two rocks : this fecond fall is alfo of a
confiderable height ; but the lower one, the third, is the moft confiderable, it ilTues in
the fame manner from a bafon hid from the point of view. Thefe bafons being large,
there appears a fpacc of feveral yards between each fall, which adds much to the pidu-
refque fcenery ; the whole is within an arch of wood, that hangs over it ; the quantity
of water is fo confiderable as to make an almo(l deafening noiie, and uniting with the
torrent below, where the fragments of rock are large and numerous, throw an air of
grandeur over the whole. It is about feventy feet high. Coaft from hence the woody
fliorcs of Tomys and Glena, they are upon the whole much the moft beautiful ones I
have any where feen ; Glena woods having more oak, and fome arbutus's, are the
lin,'r and deeper ihades ; Tomys has a great quantity of birch, whofe foliage is not fo
luxuriant. 'Jhe reader may figure to himfelf what thefe woods are, when he is in-
fonncd that they fill an unbroken extern of fix miks in length, and from half a mile to a
mile and a half in breadth, all hanging on the fides of two vaft mountains, and coming
liov.n with a full robe of rich luxuriance to the very water's edge. The acclivity of
thefe hills is fuch, that every tree appears full to the eye. The variety of the ground
is great ; in fome places great fwells in the mountain fide, with correfponding hollows,
profent concave and convex mafl'es ; in others, confiderable ridges of land and rock
rife from the fwccp, and offer to the aftoniflied eye yet other varieties of fliade. Smaller
mountains rife regularly from the immenfe bofom of the larger, and hold forth their
fylvan headt, backed by yet higher woods. 'I'o give all the varieties of this immenfe
fcenery of foreft is impoffible. Above the whole is a prodigious mafs of mountain, of
a gently fwelling outline and foft appearance, varying as the fun or clouds change their
pofuion, but never becoining lupged or threatening to the eye.

The variations are bed feen by rowing near the Tiore, when every ftroke of the oar
gives a new outline, and frefli tints to pleafc the eye : but f< r one great imprellion, row
about two miles from the fhore of Glena ; at that diilance the inequalities in the furfaco
are no longer feen, but the eye is filled with fo iniiiienfe a range of wood, crowned
with a mountain in perfcd unifon with itfelf, that objecls, whofe character is that ef
beauty, are here, from their magnitude, truly m.ignificent, and attended with a mod
forcible expreflion. — Returned to Mucrufs.

September 30. This morning 1 had dedicated to the afcent of Mangerton, but his
head was fo enflirouded in clouds, and the weather fo bad, that I was forced to give up
the fcheme: Mr. Herbert has meafured him with very accurate indrumcnts, of which
he h;is a great collection, and found his hciijht eight hundred and tliirty-five yards above.
the level of the fea. TheDevil'a Tunch-bo-Al, from the ds-fcription 1 had of it, mult

4 be

young's tour in IRELAND. 847

be the crater of an exhaufted volcano : there are many figns of tliem about Killarney,
particularly vail rocks on the fides of mountains, in dreams, as if they had rolled from
the top in one diredion. Brown ftone rocks are alfo fometimes found on lime- quarries,
tolTed thither perhaps in fome vail eruption.

In my way from Killarney to Caftle Uland rode into Lord Kenmare's park, from
whence there is another beautiful view of the lake, different from many of the preced- •
iiig ; there is a broad margin of cultivated country at your feet, to lead the eye gra-
dually in the lake, which exhibits her iflands to '.his point more diftinftly than to any
other, and the back grounds of the mountains of Glenii and Tomys give a bold relief.

Upon the whole, Killarney, among the lakes that I have feen, can fcarcely be faid to
have a rival. The extent of water in Loch Karnc is much greater, the iflsnds more
numerous, and fome fcenes near Caillc Caldwell of perhaps as great magnificence. The
rocks at Kefwick are moru' hiblime, and other lakes may have circumlbnces in which
they 'are fuperior ; but when we confider the prodigious woods of Killarney ; the im>
Hienfity of the mountains; the uncommon beauty of the promontory of Mucrufe, and
the ille of Innisfallen j the charader of tlvo iflands; the lingular circumftance of the
arbutus, and the uncommon echoes, it will rppear, upon the whole, to be in reality fu-
perior to all comparifon.

Before 1 quit it I have one other obfervation to make, which is relative to tjie want
of accommodations and extravagant expence of (Irangers refiding at Killarney. I fpealc
it not at all feelingly, thanks to Mr. Herbert's hofpitality, but from the accounts given
me : the inns are miferable, and the lodgings little better. I am furprifed fomebody
with a good capital does not procure a large well-built inn, to be eredted on the imme-
diate ftiore of the lake, in an agreeable fituation, at a dillance from the town ; there
are very few places where fuch an one would atifwer better, there ought to be numerous
and good apartments. A large rendezvous-i;oom for billiards, cards, dancing, mufic,
&c. to which the company might relbrt when they chol'e it ; an ordinary for thofe that
liked dining in public ; boats of all forts, nets lor filliing, and as great a variety of
amufements as could be coUetted, efpecially within doors ; for the climate being very
rainy, travellers wait with great impatience in a dirty common inn, which they would
not do if they were in the midft of fuch accemmodations as they meet with at an Eng-
li(h Spa. But above all, the prices of every thing, from a room and a dinner to a barge
and a band of mufic, to be realonable, and hung up in every part of the houfe : the
relbrt of ilrangers to Killarney would then be much increafed, and their flay would be
greatly prolonged ; they v;ould not view if polt-hade, and ily away the firll moment
to avoid dirt andimpofition. A man wiin a good capital and Ibms ingenuity would, I
think, make a fortune by fixing here upon Iiich principles.

The flate of the po^r in the whole county of Kerry rtprpfented as exceedingly mife-
rable, anil owing to the conduct of men of property, who are apt to lay the blame on
what they call land pirates, or men who olfer the highed rent, and who, in order to
pay this rent, mult and do re-let all the cabin lands at an extravagant rife, which is
aliigning over all the cabins to be devoured by one faruier. The cottars on a farm
cannot go from one to another, in order to find a good mailer, as in England ; for all
the country is in the fame fyllem, and no rcdrcfs to be found : fuch being tiie calb, thi;
farmers are enabled to charge the price of labour as low as they plcafe, and rate the
land as high as they like. This is an evil which oppreiTes them cruelly, and certainly
has its origin in its landlords when they let their farms, letting all the cabins with them,
inftead ot keeping them tenants to themftlves. The opprellion is, the farmer valuing
the labour of the poor at fourpencc or fivepcnce a day, aiul paying that in land rated

nnicli

i Ij^fl i

YOUKC'S TOUR IN IRELAND.

much above its value : owing to this the poor are depreffecl ; they live upon potatoes
and four milk, and the pocrelt of them only fait and water to them, with now and then
a herring. 'I'hcir milk is bought ; for very few keep cows, I'carco any pigs, but a few
poultry. Tiieir circumdances are incomparably worl'e thnn they were twenty years ago ;
for tlicy had all cows, but then they wore no linen: all now have a little flax. To
thefc evils have been owing emigrations, which have been coniidcrable.

To the wed of Tralee are the Mahagree illands, famous for their corn produfts;
tliey are rock and fand, (locked with rabbits ; near them a fandy traft, twelve miles
long, and one mile broad, to the north, with the mountains to the i'outh, famous for the
belt wlieat in Kerry : all under the plough.

iXrriving at Ardfert, Lord Crolby, whofe politenefs 1 have every reafon to remember,
was ib obliging as to carry me by one of the fmeft Ihands I gver rode upon, to view
the niouth of the Shannon at Ballengary, the fcite of an old fort : it is a vaft rock, fe-
parated from the country by a chafm of prodigious depth, through which the waves
drive. The rocks of the coaft here are in tht bolded llile, and hollowed by the furious
Atlantic waves into caverns in which they roar. It was a dead calm, yet the fwell was
fo heavy, that the great waves rolled in and broke upon the rocks with fuch violence
as to raife an iminenfe foam, and give one an idea of what a ilorm wouKI be, but fancy
rarely falls fhort in her pictures. The view (>f the Shannon is exceedingly noble ; it is
eight miles over, the mouth formed by two headlands of very high and bold clifts, and
the reach of the river in view very extenfive : it is an immenfc fcenery : perhaps the
noblefl mouth of a river in Europe.

Ardfert is very near the fca, lb near it that finglc trees or rows are cut in pieces
with the wind, yet about Lord Glendour's houfe there are extenfive plantations ex-
ceedingly flourifliing, many fine afli and beech ; about a beautiful Ciftertian abbey, and
a filver fir of forty-eight years (growth, of an inimenfe height and fize.

Odober 3, left Ardfert, accompanying Lord Cnfby to Liltowel. Called in the way
to view Lixnaw, the ancient feat of the Karls of Kerry, but deferted for ten years palt,
and now prefents fo melancholy a fcene of defolation, that it (liocked me to fee it.
Every thing around lies in ruin, and the houfe itfelt is going fall off by thieving depre-
dations of the neighbourhood. I was told a curious anecdote of this edate, which
fliews wonderfully the improvement of Ireland: the prefent Earl of Kerry's grand-
father, Thomas, agreed to leafe the whole eitate for 1500I. a year to a Mr. Collis for
ever, but the bargain went off upon a difputc whether the money Ihould be paid at Cork
or Dublin. Thofe very lands are now let at 2o,oool. a year. There is yet a good deal
of wood, particularly a fine afh grove, planted by the prefent Earl of Shelburne's
father.

Proceeded to Woodford, Robert FitzgeraUl's, Efq., paffmg Liftowel bridge, the vale
leading to it is very fine, the river is broad, the lands higii, and one fide a very extenfive
hanging wood, opening on thofe of Woodford in a pleaiing flile.

Woodford is an agreeable Icene ; clwfe to liic houfe i;^ a fine winding river under a
bank of thick wo(hI, with the view of an old caliic hani^ing over it.

In 1765, Mr. Fitzgerald was travelling from Conllaiuinoplc to Wai'law, and a wag-
gon with his l)aggage h. aviiy laden overllt ; the country people harnclled two buffaloes
by the horns, in ord'T to draw it over, which they did with eafc. In fome very inltruc-
tive converlation I had witli this gentleman on the lubjed of his iravels, this circum-
ilance particularly ftruck me.,

Odober 4, from Woodford to Tarbat, the feat of Edward licflie, Efq., through a
country rather dreary, till it came upon Tarbat, which is fo much the contrary that it

appeared

VOUNg's tour in IRELAND. 849

appeared to the higlidl vulviiutage ; tlic houfe is on the edge of a beautiful lawn, with
a thick marj^in of full grown wood, hanging on a deep bank to the Shannon, fo that
the river is it-en from the houfe over the tops of this wood, which being of a broken ir-
rcLHiIar outline has an cfl'cd very (Iriking and uncommon ; the river is two or three
niilt.6 broad here, and the oppofite coad forms a promontory which has from Tarbat ex-
aflly the appearance of a large iiland. To the eaft, the river fwells into a tri.\n;^ular
lake, with a reach opening at the dillant corner of it to Limerick : the union of woud,
water, and lawn forms upon the whole a very fine fccne ; the river is very niaj^nifi.
cent. l''rom the hill on the coaft above the ifland, the lawn and wood appear al'o
to great advantage. But the fined point of view is from the higher hill on the othor
fide of the houfe, which looking down on all thefe fcenes, they appear as a beautiful
ornament to the Shannon, which fpreads forth its proud courfe from two to nijie miles
wide, furrounded by highlands-; a fcenery truly magnificent.

'Jhe date of the poor is fomething better than it was twenty years ago, particularly
their cloathing, cattle, and cabins. They live upon potatoes and milk ; all h.ive cows,
and when they dry them, buy others. They alio have butter, and mod of tliem keep
pigs, killing them for their own ufe. They have alfo herrings. They are in general in
the cottar fyfteni, of paying for labour by afligning fome land to each cabin. The
country is greaily more populous than twenty years ago, and is now increafing j and if
ever fo many cabins were bailt by a gradual increafe, tenants would be found for them.
A cabirt and five acres of land will let for 4I. a year. The indultrious cottar, with two,
three, or four acres, would be exceedingly glad to have his time to himfelf, and have
fuch an annual addition of land us he was able to manage, paying a fair rent for it ;
none would decline it but the idle and worthlefs.

Tythes are all annually valued by the pro£lors, and charged very high. There arc
on the Shannon about one hundred boats employed in bringing turf to Limerick from
tlie coad of Kerry and Clare, and in Bdiing; the former carry from twenty to twenty-five
tons, the latter from five to ten, and are navigated each by two men and a boy.

October 5, palTed through a very unentertaining country (except for a few miles on
the bank of the Shannon) to Altavilla, but Mr. Bateman being from home, I was difap-
pointed in getting an acount of the palatines fettled in his neigbourhood. Kept the road
to Adair, where Mrs. Quin, with a politenefs equalled only by her underdanding, pro*
cured me every intelligence I wifhcd for.

Palatines were fettled here r.y the late Lord Southwell about feventy years' ago.

They preferve fome of tht. vlerman cudoms: deep between two beds. They ap-
point a burgomader, to whom t.iey appeal in cafe of all difputes ; and they yet preferve
their language, but that is declining. They are very indudrious, and in confequence
are much happier and better fed, cloathed, and lodged than the Iridi peafants. • We-
niud not, however, conclude from hence that all is owing to this, their being inde-
pendent farmers, and having leafes, are circumdances which will create indudry.
Their crops are much better than thofe of their neighbours. I'liere are three villages
of them, about feventy families in all. For fome time after they fettled they fed upon
four crout, but by degrees left it off", and took to potatoes ; but now fubfid upon them
and butter and milk, but^ith a great deal of oat bread, and fome of wheat, fome
meat and fowk, of which they raife many. They have all offices to their houfes, that
is, dables and cow-houfes, and a lodge for their ploughs, &c. They keep their cows
in the houfe in winter, feeding them upon hay and oat draw. Ihey are remarkable
for the goodnefs and cleanlinefs of their houfes. . The women are very indudVious,
reap the corn, pIC)ugh the ground fometimes, and do whatever work may be going on ;

vol.. iiii 5 Q they

i,^ij YOUNo'a TOUR IN tRCLANO.

they alfo fjiin, anJ make thoir children do the fame. Their wheat is much better thart
any in the country, infomuch that they get a better price than any body ell'e. Their
indudry goes fo tar, that jocular reports of its txcefs are fproad : in a very pinching
feafon, one of thetn yoked his wife againft a horfe, and went in that manner to work,
and fmilhed a jouniey at plough. The indullry of the women is a perfect con-
trad to the Iriili ladies in the cabins, who cannot be pcrfuaded, on any conlidcra-
tion, even to make hay ; it not being the cultom of the country ; yet they bind
corn, and do other works more laborious. Mrs. C2uin, who is ever attentive to
introduce whatever can contribute to tlieir welfare and happinefs, offered many pre-
miums to induce them to make hay, of hats, cloaks, (lockings, &c. &c. but all
would not do.

I'ew places have fo much wood about them as Adair : Mr. Quin has above one thou-
fand acres in his hands, in which a large proportion is under wood. The deer park of
four hundred acres is almod full of old oak and very fine thorns, of a great fize ; and
about the houfe, the plantations are very extenfive, of elm and other wood, but that
thrives better than any other fort. I have no where feen finer than vaft numbers here.
There is a fine river runs under the houfe, and within view are no lefs than three ruins
of Francifcan friaries, two of them remakably beautiful, and one has moll of the parts
perfect, except the roof.

In Mr. Quin's houfe, there are fome very good pifturcs, particularly an anunciation^
by Dominicino, which is a beautiful piece. It was brought lately from Italy by Mr. Quin,
junior. The colours are rich and mellow, and the hairs of the heads inimitably pleaf«
ing ; the group of angels at the top, to the left of the piece, are very natural. It is a
piece of great merit. The companion is a Magdalen ; the expreflion of melancholy, or
rather mifcry, remarkably Urong. There is a gloom in the whole in full unifon with the
fubjeft. There arc, befidesthefe, fome others inferior, yet of merit, and two very good
portraits of Lord Dartry, (Mrs. Quin's brother,) and ot Mr. Quin, junior, by Pompeio
Battoni. A piece in an unconnnon fiyle, done on oak, of Either and Aliafuerus: the
colours tawdry, but the grouping attitudes and elfett pleafing.

Caflle Oliver is a place almuii entirely of Mr. Oliver's creation ; from a houfe, fur-
rounded with cabins and rubbifli, he has fixed it in a fine lawn, furrounded by good
wood. The park he has very much improved on an excellent plan ; by means of feven
feet hurdles he fences of}' part of it that wants to be cleaned nr improved, thefe he culti-
vates, and leaves for grals, and then takes another fpot, which is by much the befl way
of doing it. In the park is a glen, an Englifh mile long, winding in a pleafing manner,
with much wood hanging on the banks. Mr. Oliver h-s conducted a dream through
this vale, and formed many little water-falls in an exceedingly good tade, chiefly over-
hung with wood, but in fome places open with feveral little rills, trickling over floncs
down the flopes. A path winds through a large wood and along the brow of the
glen ; this path leads to an hermitage, a cave of rock, in a good tade, and to Ibme
benches, from wh ch the views of the water and wood are in the fequedered flyle they
ought to be. One of thefe httle views, which catches feveral falls under the arch of
the bridge, is one of the prettied touches of the kind I have feen. The vale beneath
the houfe, when viewed from the higher grounds, is pleafing ; it is very well wooded,
there being many inclofurcs, furrounded by pine trees, and a thick fine mafs of wood
rifes from them up the mountain fide, makes a very good figure, and would be better,
had not Mr. Oliver's father cut it into viitas for fliooting. Upon the whole, the place
is highly improved, and when the mountains are plaiueu, in wliich Mr. Oliver is making

a coufidcrabic progrefs, it will, be magnificent.

youno'b tour m irei.akd. 851

In the houfe are feveral fine pidurcs, particularly five pieces by Seb. Ricci, Venus
and iTlneas ; Apollo and Pan ; Vt-nus and Achilles ; and I'yrrhus and Andromache, by
Lazzcrini ; and the rape of the Lapithi by the centaurs ; the lad is by much the fine^,
and is a very capital piece ; the cxpreflion is ftrong, the figures are in bold relief, and
the colouring good. Venus and Achilles is a plcafmg pidurc ; the continence of Scipio
is well grouped, but Scipio, as in every pifture I ever faw of him, has no cxpreflion.
Indeed chaliity is in thf countenance fo ptt/Jive a virtue as not to be at all fuitcd to the
genius of painting ; the idea is rather that of infipidity, and accordingly Scipio's exprcf.
finn is j.fcnerally inlipid enough. Two fine pieces, by Lucca Jordano, Hercules and
Anteus ; Sampl'on killing the lion : both dark and horrid, but they are highly finiflied,
ana llriking. Six heads of old men, by Nagori, excellent ; and four young women, in
the eharafter of the feal'ons.

()d>ober 9, loft Caftle Oliver. Had I followed my inclination, my flay would have
been much longer, for I fcund it equally the refidence of entertainment and inftruc-
tion Paflcd through Kilfennan and Duntreleague, in my way to Tipperary. The
road leads every where on the fidc\s of the hills, fo as to give a very diflinft view of the
lower grounds ; the foil all the way is the fame fort of Amdy reddilh loam 1 have already
defcribeO, incomparable land for till;vj;e : as I advanced it grew fomething lighter, and
in many places free from gravel, liullocks the flock all the way. Towards Tipperary
I faw vaft numbers of flicep, and many bullocks. All this line of country is part of the
famous golden vale. To "I'homas-town, where I was fo unfortunate as not to find Mr.
Matthew at home ; the domain is one thoufand five hundred Englifh acres, fo well
planted, that I could hardly believe myfcif in Ireland. There is a hill in the park from
which the view of it, the country and the Galties, are ftriking.

Oftober 12th, to Lord do Montalt's, at Dundrum, a place which his Lordfliip has
ornamented in the modern ftyle of improvement : the houfe was fituated in the midft of
all the regular exertions of the laft age. Parterres, parapets of earth, ftraight walks,
knots and dipt hedges, all which he has thrown down, with an infinite number of hedges
and ditches, filled up ponds, kc. and opened one very noble lawn around him, fcattered
negligently over with trees, aiv.i cleared the courfe of a choaked up river, fo that it flows
at prefent in a winding courfe through the grounds.

Odober 13, leaving Dumlruni, pafTed through Cafliel, where is a rock and ruin oil
it, called the rock of Caflul, fuppofed to be of tiu remoteft antiquity. Towards Clon-
mell, the whole way through the fame rich vein of red fandy loam I have fo often men-
tioned : I examined it in feveral fields, and found it to be of an extraordinary fertility,
and as fine turnip land as ever I faw. It is much under flieep ; but towards Clonmell
there is a great deal of tillage.

The firft view of that town, backed by a high ridge of mountains, with a beautiful
fpace near it of inclofurcs, fringed with a fcattering of trees, was very pleafing. It is
the befl fituated place in the county of Tipperary, on the Sure, which brings up boats
of ten tons burthen. It appears to be a bufy populous place, yet I was told that the
manufiitlure of woollens is not confiderable. It ii noted for being the birth-place of the
inimitable Sterne.

To Sir William Ofborne's, three miles the other fide Clonmell. From a charafler fo
remarkable lor intelligence and precifion, 1 could not fail of mcetiniir information of tht;
moil valuable kind. This gentlemen has made a mountain improvement which demands
particular iittcntion, being upon a principle very dllTeront from common ones.

Twelve years ago he met with a hearty looking fjllow of forty, followed by a wife and
fix children in rags, who begged. Sir William queltionedhim upon the fcundal of a man in

5 Q 2 full

S^t young's tour in IRELAND.

full health and vigour, fupportlng himfflf in fuch a manner : the man fiiid he could get
no work : " Come along with ine, I will fhow you a ("pot of land upon which I will build
a cabin Jor you, and if you like it you Ihall fix thore." The fellow followi-d Sir William, ^
who was as good as his word : he built him a cabin, gave him fivi> acres oi' a heathy moun-
tain, lent hiiu four pounds to flock witli, anJ gave him, wht-n he h;d prepared hia
ground, as much lime as he would come fir, 'I'he fellow flouridicd ; he wont on
gradually ; repaid the four pounds, and |)refontly bi'i:ame a happy liitle cottar ; he has at
profcnt twelve acres under cultivation, and a Itock in trade worih at leall Uol., his mune
IS John Conory.
The fucccfs which attended this man in two or throe years, brought otlicrs who ap-

f>lied for land, and Sir William gave them as they applied. The mountain was und^T
eal'e to a tenant, who valued it fo little, that upon being reproached with not cultivating,
or doing fumething with it, he ailured 8ir William, that it was utterly impradlicablc to
do any tiling with it, and offered it to him without any dcilut^tion of rent. Upon this
mountain he fixed them ; gave them terms as they came determinable with the Icafe of
the farm, fo that every one that came in fuccellion had fliorter and fliorter tenures ; yet
are they fo defirous of fettling, that they come at prefent, though only two years remair\
for a term.

In this manner Sir William has fixed twenty-two families, who are all upon the im-
proving hand, the meanefl growing richer ; and rind themfelves fo well oif, that no con-
fideration will induce them to work for others, not even in harved : their indullry has
no bounds ; nor is the day long enough for the revolution of their inceiTaiit labour.
Some of them bring turf to Clonmell, a,nd Sir William has feeii Conory returning loaded
with foapalhes.

He found it difficult to perfuade them to make a road to their village, but when they
had once done it, he found none in geiting crofs roads to it, they found fuch benefit in
the firft. Sir William has continued to give whatever lime they come for ; and they
have defired onethouland barrels among them for the year 1766, wliich their landlord
has accordingly contrafted for with his lime-burner, at iid. a barrel. Their houfes
have all been built at his expence, and done by contrail at 61. each, after which they
raifc what little offices they want for ihemfelves.

Odober 15, left New Town, and keeping on the banks of the Sure, pafTed through
Carrick to Curraghmore, the feat of the Earl of ly-one. This line of country, ia
point of foil, inferior to what I have of late gone through : fo that I confidcr the rich
country to end at Clonmell.

Emigrations from this part of Ireland principally to Newfoundland ; f )r a feafoa
they have 18I. or 20I for their pay. and arc maintained, but they do not bring home
more than 7I. to nl. Some of them ftav and fettle; three years av^o there was an
emigration of indented fervants to North Carolina of thrrc hundred, but th< y were^
flopped, by contrary winds, &c. There had been fomething of this conflantly, but not
to that amount. The opprefTion which the poor people have molt to complain of, is-
the not having any tenures in their lands, by which means they are entirely I'ubjeft tc
their employers.

Manufaftures here are only woollens. Carrick is one of the grentefl tiianufa(!:luTing
towns in Ireland. Principally for ratteens, but of late they havi' got into broad-cloths, all:
for home confumption ; the manufadure iiicreafes, and is very flourifhing. Ihere arc be-
tween throe and four hundred people employed by if, in Carrick and its neighbourhood.,

Curraghmore is one of the rinefl places in Ireland, or indeed that I have any where
fcen. The houfe, which is large, is fituateJ upon a rifing ground, ia a vale furrounded

YOUNo'fl TOUR IM IRP.LAND.

853

by very bold hills, which life in a variety of forms and olTer to the eye, in rifing
through the grounds, very noble and llrikinp; fcenes. Thtic hills are exceedingly va-
ried, fo that tne detour of the place is very pieafing. In order to fcc-it to advantage,
I would advife a traveller to fake the ride which Lord Tyrone carried me. PaiFod
through the deer, park wqod of old oaks, fpread over the fide of a bold hill, and of fuch
an extent, that the fcene is a truly foreft one, without any other boundary in view than
what the rtcms of trees offer from mere extent, retiring one behind another till they
thicken lb uvjch to the eye, under the fhade of their (preading tops, as to form a diftant
wall of wood. This is a fort of fceno not common in Ireland, it is a great extent alone
that will give it. From this hill enter an ever-gif-een plantation, a fcene which winds up
the deer-park hill, and opens on to the brow of it, which commands a mod noble view
indeed. The biwns round the houfe appear at one.'s feet, at the bottom of a great decli-
vity of wood, almoft every where furrounded by plantations. 'I'lie hills on the oppofite
fide of the vale againft the houfe, confill of a large lawn in the center of the twp woods,
that to the right of an immenfe extent, which waves over a mountain fide in the fined
manner imaginable, and lead the eye to the fcencry on the lett, which is a beautiful valo
of rich inclolures, of feveral miles extent, with the Sure making one great reach through
it, aiid a bold bend juft before it enters a gap in the hills towards Waterford, and winds
behind them ; to the rikjht you look over a large plain, backed by the great Cummoragh
mountains. For a dillind extent of view, the parts of which are all of a commanding
magnitude, and a variety equal to the number, very few profpedh are finer than this.

From hence the boundary plantation ex 'ids fome miles to the weft and north-weft of
the domain, forming a margin to the whole of different growths, having been planted, by
degrees, from three to fixtecn years. It is in general well grown, and the trees thriven ex-
ceedingly, particularly the oak, beech, larch, and firs. It is very well (kctcbed, with,
much variety given to it.

Pafs by the garden acrofs the river which murmurs over a rocky bed, and follow the
riding up a fieep hill, covered with wood from fome breaks, in which the houfe appears
perfedly buried in a deep wood, and come out, after a confiderable extent of ride, into
the higher lawn, which commands a view of the fcenery about the houfe ; and from the
brow of the hill the water, which is made to imitate a river, has a good effeft, and throws
a great air of chftrfulnelis over the fcene, for from hence the declivity below it is hid ;
but the view, which is the moft pleafing from hence, the fineft at Curraghmoor, and in-
deed one of the moft ftriking that is any whereto be feen, is that of the hanging wood to
the right of the houfe, rifing in To noble a fweep as perfedly to fill the eye, and leave
the fancy Icarce any thing to wiih : at the bottom is a fmidl femicircular lawn around"
which flows the river, under the immediate Ihade of .".ry noble oaks ; the whole wood
rifcs boldly from the bottom, tree above tree, to a vaft height, of large oak, the raffes of
fhade are but tints of one colour, it is not chequered with a variety, there is a majeftic
funplicity, a unity in the whole, which is attended with an uncommon itnpreflion, and
fuch as none but the moft magnificent fcenes can raile.

Defcending from hence through the roads, the riding croffes the river, paflfcs through
the meadow, wbii h has fuch an cfiVct in the preceding fcene, from which alfo the view is
very tine, and leads home through a continued and an extenfive range of fine oak, partly
on a declivity, at the bottom of which the river murmurs its broken courfe.

Befides this noble riding, there is a very agreeable walk runs immediately on the
banks of the river, which is perfed in its ftylc ; it is a fequeftered line of wood, fo nigh
on the declivities in fome places, and fo thick on the very Ci'ge in others, overfpreading
the liver, that the charaftcr of the fceae is gloom and melancholy, heightened by the

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854 young's tour in laELAND.

noife of the water fiilllng from ftone to ftone; there is a confiderable variety in the
banks of it, and in the ligures and growth of the wood, but none that hurts the im-
prefllon, which is well pftferved throughout.

Odober 17, accompanied Lord Tyrone to Waterford ; made fome inquiries into the
ftato of their trade, but found it difficult, from the method in which the cuii:om-houfe
books are kept, to get the details I wifhed ; but in the year following having the plcafure
of a long vilit at Ballycanvan, the feat of Cornelius Bolton, Efq , his fon, the member
for the city, procured me every information I could wilh, and that in fo liberal and po-
lite a manner, that it would not be eafy to exprefs the obligations I am under to botli.
In general, I was informed, that the trade of the place had increafed confiderably in
ten years, both the exports and imports. The exports of tiie products of pafturage,
full one-third in twelve years. That the ftaple trade of the place is the Newfoundland
trade ; this is very much increafed ; there is more of it here than any where. The
number of people who go pafl'engers in the Newfoundland fliipsis amazing : from fixty
to eighty (hips, and from three thoii(and to five thoufand annually. They come from
moft parts of Ireland, from Corkc, Kerry, &c. Experienced men will get i 81. to 2:1.
for the feafon, from March to November ; a man who never went will have five to
feven poun !s, and his paffage, and others rife to sol. the paffagc out they get, but pay
home two pounds. An induftrious man in a year will bring home twelve to fixteen
pounds with him, and fome more. A great point for them is to be able to carry out
all their flops, for every thing there is exceedingly dear, one or two hundred per cent,
dearer than they can get them at home. They are not allowed to take out any woollen
goods but for their own ufe. The (hips go loaded with pork, beef, butter, and fome
fait; and bring home palTengcrR, or get f; eights where they can : fometimes rum. The
Waterford pork comes principally from the barony of Iverk in Kilkenny, where they
fatten great numbers of large hogs ; for many weeks together they kill here three to
four thoufand a week, the price Hfty (hillings to four pounds ench ; goes chiefly to New-
foundland. One was killed in Mr. Penrofe's cellar, that weighed five hundred weight
and a quarter, and meafured from the nofe to the end of the tail, nine feet four inches.

There is a foundcry at Waterford for pots, kettles, weights, and all common utenfils ;
and a nianufaftory by MefTieurs King and Tcgent, of anvils to anchors, twenty hundred
weight, &c. which employs forty hand.s. Smiths earn from 6s. to 24s. a week. Nai-
lors from i os. to 1 2s. And another lefs confiderable. There are two lugar-houfes, and
many falt-houfes. The fait is boiled over lime kilns.

There is a fifliery upon the coaft of Waterford, for a great variety of fifli, herrings
particularly in the mouth of Waterford harbour, and two years ago in fuch quanti-
ties there, that ihe tides left tl:e ditches full of them 'i'hcre are fome premium
boats both here and at Dungarvon, but the quantity of herrings barrelled is not con-
fiderable.

'1 he butter trade of Waterford has inorcafed greatly for fcvcn years paft ; it comes
from Waterford priueipal y, but much from Carlow ; for it comes from twenty miles
beyond Carlow, for (i.Kpence per hundred. From the ift of J.muary 1774 to the i(l
ofJmuary 1775, tiiere were exported fifty-nine tliourand ei; ht luiiKlrcd and fiity-fijc
calks of butter, each, on an average, oiij hundred weij^ht, at the mean price of 50s.
Revenue of Waterford, 175 1. 17,0001.; ^TJ^^i 52,000!. The flau'^jhter trade has
increafed, but not fo '.nuch as the butter. Price of butter now at Waterl'ord 58s. ;
twenty years' average, 42s. Beef now to 25s., average, twenty years, los. to 18s.
Pork now 3CS., average, twenty years, 16s. to 22s. Eighty fil of fliips now belong-
ing to the port, twjuty years ago not thirty. They pay to the captains of fljip of two

hundred

VOUNO'S TOUR m IRELAND. 855

hundred tons 5I. a month ; the mate 3I. 10s. Ten men at 40s., five years ago only
37s. Building (hips, lol. a ton. Wear and tear of fuch a (hip 20I. a month. Ship
provifions 20s. a month. •

The new church in this city is a very beautiful one ; tho body of it is in the fame
ftile exadlly as that of Belfall already defcribed : the total length one hundred and fe-
venty feet, thi.' breadth fifty-eight. The length of the body of the church ninety-two,
the heigluh forty ; breadth between the pillars twenty-fix. The ifle (which I do not
remember at Belfafl:) is fifty-eight by forty-five. A room on one fide the ftecple, fpace
for the bifliop's court, twenty-four by eighteen ; on the other fide, a room of the fame
fize for the veftry ; and twcnty-cight feet fauare left for a fteeple when their funds will
permit. The whole is light and beautiful : it was built by fubfcrlption, and there is a
fine organ befpoke at London, But the fined objeft in this city is the quay, which is
unrivalled by any I have feen ; it is an Englifli mile long ; the buildings on it are only
common houfes, but the river is near a mile over, flows up to the town in one noble
reach, and the oppofite fliore a bold hill, which rifes immediately from the water to
a heighth that renders the whole magnificent. This is fcattered \yith fome wood, and
divided into paftures of a beautiful verdure, by hedges. I croflld the water, in order
to walk up the rocks on the top of this hill ; in one place over againft Bilberry quarry,
you look immediately down on the river, which flows in noble reaches from Granny
cn^le on the right pail Cromwell's rock, the Ihores on both fides quite ftecp, efpecially
ti'.'^ I'ock of Bilberry. You look over tho whole town, which here appears in a triangular
form ; befides the city the Cummeragh mountains, Slein a-man, &c. come in view.
Kilmacow river falls into the Sure, after flowing through a large extent of well planlcd
coimtry ; this is the fined view about the city.

From Waterford to Palfage, and got my chaife and horfes on board the Countefs of
Tyrone packet, in full expectation of failing immediately, as the wind was fair, but I
foon found the difference of thefe private veflfels and the poll -office packets at Holyhead
and Dublin When the wind was fair the tide was foul ; and when the tide was with
them the wind would not do ; in Englifh, the/j was not a complement of paflbngers,
and fo I had the agreeablcnelh of waiting with my horfes in the hold, by way of relt,
after a journey of above one thoufand live hundred miles.

Odober 18, after a beaitly night pafTed on (hip board, and finding no figns of d*^-
paiture, walked to Ballycanvan, the feat u.' Cornelius Bolton, Efq. ; rode with Mr.
Bolton, jun. to Faithleghill, which commands one of the finell views 1 have feen in
Ireland. '1 here is a rock on the top of a hill, which has a very bold view on every
fide down on a great extent of country, much of which is grafs inclofures of a good
verdure. Tiiis hill is the center of a circle of about ten tnil.s diameter, beyond whieh
higher lands rife, which, after fprcading to a great extent, have on every fide a back
ground of mountain : in a northerly diredion mount Leinflcr, between W(^xford and
Wicklow, twenty-fix tniles off, rifes in feveral heads far above the clouds. A little to the
right of this, Sliakeiltha (/. c the woody mountain), at a lei's dillance, is a fine objccl:.
To the left, Tory hill, only five miles, in a regular form varies the in.tline. To the edit,
there is the long niouniain, eighteen miles diltant, and fever.il leller Wexford liills, 1 o
the fouth-eall, tne Saltecs. To the fouth, the ocean, and the cnlines about the bay of
Tramore. To the weft, MonavoUagh lifes two thoufand one hundred and iixty feet
above the level of the fea, eighteen miles oft", being part of the great ran;!;e ol the
Cummaragh mountains; and to the north-weft Slinanian, at the diUance of twcniy four
miles J fo that the outline is everywhere bold and diltind, though dillaiu. '! lijfe

circuni-

••f

' ■■■■"' '~*i

^5^ young's tour in IRELAND.

circumftances would alone form a great view, but the water part of it, which fills up the
canvafs, is in a much fuperior (tyle. Tlie great river Sure takes a winding coiirfe from
the city of Waterford, tl»rough a rich country, hanging on the fides of hills to its banks,
and dividing into a double channel, forms the lefler iflind, both of which courlcs you
command difUndly ; united, it makes a bold rrach luuler the hill on which you (land,
and there receives the noble tribute of the united waters of the Barrow and Nore, in
two great channels, which form the larger iflami ; enlarged by inch an accedion of wa-
ter, it winds round the hill in a bending courfe, of the lieelt and molt graceful outline,
every where from one to three miles acrofs, with bold Ihores, thnt give a {h;>rp outline
to its courfe to the ocean ; twenty fail of fliips at PaiTac;e gave animation to the fccne ;
upon the whole, the boldnefs of the mountain outline, the variety of the grounds,
the vaft extent of river, with the declivity to it from the poini of view, altogether form
fo unrivalled a fcenery, every objed fo commanding, that the general want of wood is
almoft forgotten.

Two years after this account was written I again vifitcd this enchanting hill, and
walked to it, day after day, from Ballycanvan, and with increafing plcafure. Mr. Bolton,
jun. has, fince I was there before, inclofed forty acres on the top and fteep flope to the
water, and began to plant them. This will be a prodigious addition ; for the flope
forming the bold (liore for a confiderablc fpace, and having projeftions from which the
wood will all be feen in the gentle hollows of the hill, the effeft will be amazingly fine.
Walks and a riding are tracing out, which will command frefli beauties at every ftep J
the fpots from which a variety of beautiful views are feen are numerous. All the way
from Ballycanvan to Faithleg, the whole to the amount of one thoufand two hundred
acres, is the poperty of Mr. Bolton.

Farms about Ballycanvan, Waterford, Sec. are generally fmall, from twenty and
thirty to five hundred acres, generally about two hundred and fifty, all above two hun-
dred acres are in general dairies ; fome of the dairy ones rife very high. The foil is a
reddilh ftony, or flaty gravel, dry, except low lands, which are clay or turf. Rents
vary niuch, about the town very high, from 5I. 5s. to 9I. but at the diltance of a few
miles towards Paflage, &c. they are from 20s. to 4CS. and fome higher, but the coun-
try in general does not rife fo high, ufually 10s to 20s. for dairying land.

The poor people fpin their own flax, but not more, and a few of them wool for
themfelves. Their food is potatoes and milk ; but they have a confiderable allirtance
from fifh, particularly herrings ; part of the year they have alfo barley, oaten, and rye
bread. They are incomparably better off in every refpe£t than twenty years ago. 'Iheir
increafe about Ballycanvan is very great, and tillage all over this neighbourhood is in-
creafed. The rent of a cabin ics., an acre with it, 20s. The grafs of a cow a few
years ago 20s., now 25s. or 30s.

An exceeding good pradlice here in making their fences is, they plant the quick on
the fide of the bank in the common numner, and then, inltead of tlie dead hedge we
ufe in England on the top of the bank, they plant a row of old thorns, two or three
feet high, which readily grow, and form at once a mod excellent fence. Their way
alfo of taking in fand-banks from the river deferves notice : they (lake down a row of
furzes at low water, laying ftones on them to the height of one or two feet ; thefe retain
the mud, which every tide brings in, fo as fill up all within the furze as high as,their
tops. I remarked on the flrand, that a few boat loads of ftones laid can lefsly had had this
elfedl, for within them I meafured twelve inches deep of rich blue mud left behind them,
the fame as they ufe in manuring, full of Ihells and eft'ervclced ftrongly with vinegar.

12 Among

YOUNO^S TOUR IN IRELAND. 857

Among the poor people, the fiflicrmcn are in much tlie befl: circumRances ; tlie
fifliery is conliderable ; Watorford and its harbour have fifty boats each, from eight to
twelve tons, fix men on r.n average to each, but to one of fix tons, five men go. A
boat of eight tons cofls 40I., one of twelve, 60I. To each boat there is a train of nets
of fix pair, which cofls from 4I. 4s. to 61. 6s. ; tan them with bark. Their only net
filhery is that of herrings, which is commonly carried on by flrdres. The divilion of
the fifli is, firft, one-fourth for the boat ; and then the men and nets divide the reft, the
Jatter reckoned as three men. They reckon ten maze of herrings an indifierent night's
work ; when there is a good take, forty maze have been taken, twenty a good night ;
the price per mazo from is. to 7s. average 5s. Their take in 1775, the greateft they
have known, when they had more than they could difpofe of, and the whole town and
country flunk of them, they retailed them thirty-two for a penny : 1773 and 1774
good years. They barrelled many ; but in general there is an import of Swedifli.
Befides the common articles I have regiftcrod, the following are, pigeons, is. a couple;
a hare, is. ; partridges, gd. ; turbots, fine ones, 4s. to los. ; foals a pair, large, is. 6d.
to IS. ; lobftcrs, 3d. each ; oyllers, 6s. per hundred ; rabbits, is. to is. 4d. a couple;
cod, IS. each, large; falmon, iTd. to 2d.

A very extraordinary circumftance I vas told, that within five or fix years there has
been much hay carried from Waterford to Norway, in the Norway fliips that brin^
deals ; as hay is dear here, it proves a moft backward ftate of hufl)andry in that nor-
therly region, fince the neighbourhood of fea-ports to which this hay can alone go, is
generally the beft improved in all countries.

Oftober 1 9, the wind being fair, took my leave of Mr. Bolton, and went back Ao the
Ihip ; met with a frefh fcene of provoking delays, fo that it was the next morning,
Oftober 20, at eight o'clock, before we failed, and then it was not wind, but a cargo of
palTengers that fpread our fails. Twelve or fourteen hours are not an uncommon paf-
fage ; but fuch was our luck, that after being in fight of the lights on the Smalls, we
were by contrary winds blown oppofite to Arklow fands : a violent gale arofe, which
prefently blew a ftorm that lafled thirty-fix hours, in which, under a reefed mainfail,
the fhip drifted up and down wearing, in order to keep clear of the coafls.

No wonder this appeared to me, a frefh-water failor, as a ftorm, when the oldefl men
on board reckoned it a violent one ; the wind blew in furious gufts ; the waves ran very
high i the cabin windows burfl open, and the fea pouring in let every thing afloat, and
among the reft a poor lady, who had fpread her bed on the floor. We had however
the fatisfaftion to find, by trying the pumps every watch, that the fliip made little water.
I had more time to attend thefe circumftances than the reft of the pafTengers, being the
only one in feven who efcaped without being fick. It pleafcd God to preferve us, but
we did not caft anchor in Milford Haven till ruefday morning the 2 2d, at one o'clock.

It is much to be wifhed that there were fome means of being fecure of packets failing
regularly, iiiftcad of waiting till there is fuch a number of palTengers as fatisfies the
owner and captain ; with the poft-oflice packets there is this fatisfaftion, and a great
one it is ; the contrary condud: is fo perfectly deteftable, that I fhould fuppofe tlie I'cheme
of Waterford ones can never fucceed.

Two years after, having been affured this conveyance was put on a new footing, I
ventured t^ try it again ; but was mortilicd to find that the Tyrone, the only one that
could take a chaife or liorlcs, (the Countel's being laid up,) was repairing, but would
fail in five days ; I waited, and received afi'urance after aflunuice that fho would be ready
on fiicii a day, and then on another ; in a word, 1 waited twinty-four days before I
failed ; moderately fpeaking, I could by Dublin have reached Turin or Milan as fooii

VOL. III. • 5 R a?

I ill

ti I' I

'i,i 111
i'j

t^i VOUNO'S TOUR m IRBLAND.

as I did Milford in this conveyance. AH this time the papers had conftant advertife-
ments of the Tyrone failing regularly, inftead of letting the public know that (he wat
under a repair. Her owner feems to be a fair and worthy man, he will therefore pro>
bably give up the fcheme entirely, unlefs affifted by the corporation with at lead four
(hips more, to fail regularly with or without pafTengers ; at prefent it is a general difap-
pomtment : I was fortunate in Mr. Bolton's acquaintance, paffing my time very agree<
ably at his hofpitable n^anfion ; but thofe who, m fuch a cafe, (hould find a Waterford
inn their refource, would curfe the Tyrone, and fet off for Dublin. The expences of
this palTage are higher than thofe from Dublin to Holyhead ; I paid»

A four-wheel chaife

• . 3

Three horfes - -

Self . . . -

Two fervants - ' -

Cuftom-houfe at Waterford, hay, oats, j^c.
Ditto at Pembroke and Hubberfton

Sailors, i)oats, and fundry fniall charges

l"^

1777. Upon a fecond journey to Ireland this year, I took the opportunity of going
from Dublin to Mitchelftown, by a rout through the central part of the kingdom whicty
I had not before fufficiently viewed.

Left Dublin the 34th of September, and taking the road to Naas, I was again ftrucle
with the great population of the country, the cabins being fo much poorer in the vicinity
of the capital than in the more diftant parts of the kingdom.

To Kiidare, crofling the Curragh, fo famous for its turf. It is a (heep walk of above
lour thouftnd Engliih acres, forming a more beautiful lawn than the hand of art ever
made. Nothing can exceed the extreme foftnefs of the turf, which is of a verdure thaD
charms the eye, and highly fet off by the gentle inequality of furface. The foil is a fine
dry loam on a lloney bottom ; it is fed by many large flocks, turned on it by the occu-
piers of the adjacent farms, who alone have the right, and pay very great rents on that
account. It is the only confiderable common in the kingdom. The fheep yield very
little wool, not more than 31b. per fleece, but of a very fine quality.

From Fumefs to Shaen Caftle, in the Queen's County, Dean Coote's ; but as the
hufbandry, &c. of this neighbourhood is already rcgiilered, I have only to obferve, that
Mr. Coote was fo kind as to (hew me the improved grounds of Dawfon's Court, the
feat of Lord Carlow, which I had not feen before. The principal beauties of the place
are the well grown and extenfive plantations, which form a (hade not often met with in'
Ireland. There is in the back grounds a lake well accompanied with wood, broken by
feveral iflands that are covered with underwood, and an ornamented walk pafTmg on
the banks which leads /rom the houfe. This lake is in the feafon perfedly alive
with wild-fowl y near it is a very beautiful fpot, which commands a view of both woods
and water, a fituation either for a houfe or a temple. Mr. Dawfon is adding to the
plantations, an employment of all others the moit meritorious in Ireland. Another
work, fcarcely lefs fO) was the erefling a large handfome inn, wherein the fame gentle-

5 niaa

TOUNo'b tour in IRELAKD. 859

man Intends eftablKhing a perfon who fliall be able to fupply travellers, pod, with either
chaifes or horfes.

From Shaen Caflle to Glofter, in the King's County, ,the feat of John Lloyd, Efq.
member for that county, to whofe attention I owe the following particulars, in which he
took every means to have me well and accurately informed. But firit let me obferve,
that I wa? much pleafed to remark, all the way from Naas quite to Rolferea, that the
country was amongft the fined I had feen in Ireland, and confequently that I was for-
tunate in having an opportunhy of feeing it after the involuntary omilTion of laft year.
The cabins, though many of them are very bad, yet are better than in fome other coun-
ties, and chimneys generally a part of them. The people top have no very miferable
appearance; the breed of cattle and (heep good, and the hogs much the bed I have any
where feen in Ireland. Turf is every where at hand, and in plenty ; yet are the bogs
not fo general as to aSeGt the beauty of the country, which is very great in many trafts,
with a fcattering of wood, which makes it pleafing. Shaen Cadle ftands in the midfl:
of a very fine trad. From Mountrath to Glofter, Mr. Lloyd's, I could have imagined,
tnyfelf in a. very pleafing part of England ; the country breaks into a variety of inequa-
lities of hill and dale ; it is ail well inclofed with fine hedges ; there is a plenty of wood,
not fo monopolized as in many parts of the kingdom by here and there a folitary feat,
but fpread over the whole face of the profpect : look which way you will, it is cultivated
^nd chearful.

The Shannon adds not a little to the convenience and agreeablenefs of a refidence
rp near it. Befides affording thefe forts of wild fowl, the quantity and fizeof its fi(h are
amazing : pikes fwarm in it, and rife in weight to fifty pounds. In the little flat fpaces
on its banks are fmall but deep lochs, which are covered in winter and in floods ; when
the river withdraws, it leaves plenty of fifh in them, which are caught to put into (lews.
Mr. Holmes hns a fmall one before his door at Johndown, with a little ftream which
feeds it ; a trowling-rod here gets you a bite in a moment, of a pike from twenty to forty
pounds. I eat of one of twenty-feven pounds fo taken ; I had alfo the pleafure of fee-
ing a filherman bring three trouts, weighing fourteen pounds, and fell them for fixpence-
halfpenny a piece. A couple of boats lying at anchor, with lines extended from one
to the other, and hooks in plenty from them, have been known to catch an incredible
quantity of trout. Colonel Prittie, in one morning, caught four ftone odd pounds, thirty-
two trouts : in general they rife from three to nine pounds. Perch fwarm ; they ap-
peared in the Shannon for the fird time about ten years ago, in fuch plenty that the
poor lived on them ; bream of fix poimds ; eels very plentiful. There are many gilla-
roos in the river, one of twelve pounds' weight vf&s lent to Mr. Jenkinfon. Upon the
whole, thefe circumdances, with the pleafure of (hooting and boating on the river,
added to the glorious view it yields, and which is enough at any time to chear the mind,
render this neighbourhood one of the mod enviable fituations to live in that I have
, feen in Ireland. The face of the country gives every circumdance of beauty. From
Killodeeman-hill, behind the new houfe building by Mr. Holmes, the whole is feen to
great advantage. The fpreading part of the Shannon, called Loch Derg, is commanded
didinctly for many miles ; it is in two grand divifions of great variety : that to the north
is a reach of five miles leading to Portumna. The whole hither (hore s. fcenery of
hills, checkered by inclofurcs and little woods, and retiring from the eye into a rich
didant profped. The woods of Doras, belonging to Lord Clanrickard, form a part of
the oppofite (hore, and the river itfelf prefents an ifland of one hundred and twenty acres.
Inclining to the left, a vale of rough ground, with an old cadle in it, is backed by a bold
hill, which intercepts the river there, and then the great reach of fifteen miles, the bay

5 R. a * of

85o

VOUNO'3 TOUR IN IRELAND.

of ShcrifT, fpreatis to tlie eye, with a magnificence not a little aJJcd to by the boundary,
;i fiKirp oiiilinc (ji'tlio county ut" Clare moun'.ains, between which and the DuhaiTovv hills
the Shannon fimls its way. Thefe liil!.? lead the eye IHll more to the kft, till the Keeper
meets ir, prefentincf a very beautiful outline that finks into other ranges of hill, uniting
with t!vj D.vil's Bit. The honie fcenery of the grounds, woods, hills, and lake of
Joliuilown, i;; bcautiiul.

Dancing is very general among the poor people, almoft univerfal in every cabin,
J")ancin;j;-mali:ers of tlitir own rank travel through the country from cabin to cabin,
villi a piper or blind fidler, and the pay is fixpence a quarter. It is an abfolute fyftem
of education. Weddings are always celebrated with much dancing ; and a Sunday
rarely pallcs without a dance ; there are very few among them who will not, after a hard
clay's work, gladly walk feven miles to have a dance. John is.not fo lively, but then a
hard day's work with him is certainly a different affair from what it is with Paddy.
Other branches of education are likewile much attended to, every child of the pooreft
family learning to read, writ^', and cafl: accounts.

There is a very ancient cuflom here, for a number of country neighbours among the
poor people, to fix upon fome young woman that ought, as they think, to be married }
they alfo agree upon a young fellow as a proper huiband for her ; this determined, they
fend to the fair one's cabin to inform her that on the Sunday following *' fhe is to be horf-
ed," that is, carried on men's backs. She mufl then provide whilky and cyder for a treat,
as all will pay her a vifit after mafs for a hurling match. As foon as fhe is horfed, the
hurling begins, in w hich tire young fellov/ appointed for her hufband has the eyes of
all the company fixed on him : if he comes off conqueror, he is certainly married to
the girl ; but if another is vidorious, he as certainly lofcs her, for (he is the prize of
the viclor. Thefe trials are not always finilhed in one Sunday, they take fometiujes
two or three, and the common cxprellion when they are over is, that " fuch a girl was
goal'd." Sometimes one barony hurls againff another, but a marriageable girl is always
the prize. Hurling is a fort of cricket, but inliead of throwing the ball in order to
knock down a wicket, the aim is to pals it through a bent ftick, the ends ftuck in the
ground. In thefe matches they perform fuch feats of adivity, as ought to evidence the
food they live on to be far from deficient in nourifhment.

In the hills above Derry are fome very fine flate quarries, that employ fixty men,
The quarrymen are paid 3s. a thoufand for the Hates, and the labourers 5d. a day.
They are very fine, and fent by the Shannon to diftant parts of the kingdom ; the price
at the quarry 6s. a thoufand, and at the fliore 6s. 8d. Four hundred thoufand flates
are raifed to pay the rent only, from which fome eftimate may be made of the quantity.

Mr. Head has a pradice in his fences which dcferves univerfal imitation ; it is plant-
ing trees for gate-polls. Stone piers are expenfive, and always tumbling down ; trees
are beautiful, and never want repairing. Within fifteen years this gentleman has im-
proved Derry fo much, that thofe who had only feen it before would find it almofl a
new creation. He has built a handfome ftone-houfe, on the flopc of a hill rifing from
the Shannon, and backed by fome fine wooils, which unite with many old hedges well
planted to fprm a woodland fcenc, beautiful in the contraft to the bright expanfeof the
noble river below : the declivity on which thefe woods are, finilhes in a mountain,
which rifes above the whole. The Shannon gives a bend around the adjoining lands,
fo as to be feen from the houfe both to the weft and north, the lawn falling gradually
to a margin of wood on the fliore, which varies the outline. The river is two mil s
broad, and on the oppofitc fliore cultivated iiiclofurcs rife in fome places ahnolt to the
mouutaiu top, which is very buld.

vouKo'a TOUR m Ireland.'

851

It JS^a very fingular denicfne; a fti-ipe of very beautiful ground, reaching two miles
along the banks of the river, which forms his f .ncc on one fide, with a wall on the
other. There is fo much wood as to render it very pleafing, adding to every day by
planting all the fences made or repaired. From feveral littlj hills, which rile in dif-
ferent parts of it, extenfivc views of the river are commnndsd quite to Portumna ; but
thefe are much cclipfcd by that from the top of the hill above the flate quarry. From
thence you fee the river for at leaft forty miles, from Portumna to twenty miles beyond
Limerick. It has the appearance of a fine bafon, two miles over, into which three
great rivers lead, being the north and fouth courfe and the bay of SkeiifF. The reaches
of it one beyond another to Portumna are fine. At the foot of the mountain Mr. Head's
demefne extends in a (hore of rich woodland.

Oftober 7th, took my leave of IVlr. Head, after pafllng four days very agreeably.
Through Killaloe, over the Shannon, a very long bridge of many arches ; went out of
the road to fee a fall of that river at Caftle Connel, where there is fuch an accompani-
ment of wood as to form a very pleafing fcenery ; the river takes a very rapid rocky
courfe around a projedting rock, on which a gentleman has built a fummer-houfe, and
formed a terrace : it is a linking fpot. To Limerick. Laid at Bcnnis's, the firft inn
we had flept in from Dublin. God preferve us this journey from another !

It is not uncommon, efpecially in mountainous countries, to find objedls that much
deferve the attention of travellers entirely negleded by them. There are a few in-
flanc:s of this upon Lord Kingfborough's eltate, in the neighbourhood of Mitchelflown;
the firft I fliall mention is a cave at Skeheenrinky, on the road between Cahir and that
place : the opening to it is a cleft of rock in a Hme-ilone hill, fo narrow as to be diffi-
cult to get into it. I defcended by a ladder of about twenty ftcps, and then found my-
felf in a vault of a hundred feet long, and fifty or fixty high : a fmall hole on the left
leads from this a winding courfe of I believe not lefs than half an Irifli mile, exhibiting
a variety that ftruck me much. In fome places the cavity in the rock is fo large, that
when well lighted up by candles (not flambeaux, Lord Kinglborough once fliewed it jnc
with them, and we found their fmoke troublefome) it takes the appearance of a vaulted
cathedral, fupported by mafly columns. The walls, cieling, floor, and pillars, are by
turns cumpofed of every fantafliic form ; and often of very beautiful iucruftations of
fpar, fome of which glitters fo much, that it feems powdered with diamonds ; and in
others the cieling is formed of that fort which has fo near a refemblance to a cauli-
flower. The fpar formed into columns by the dropping of water has taken fome very
regular forms ; but others are different, folded in plaits of light drapery, which hang
from their fupport in a very pleafing manner. The angles of the walls feem fringed
with icicles. One very long branch of the cave, which turns to the north, is in fome
places fo narrow and low, that one crawls into it, when it fuddenly breaks into large
vaulted fpaces, in a thoufand forms. The fpar in all this cave is very brilliant, and
almoft equal to Briftol ftone. For feveral hundred yards in the larger branch, there
is a deep water at the bottom of the declivity to the right, which the common people
call the river. A part of the way is over a fort of potter's cKiy, which mouK's into any
form, and is of a brown colour ; a very different foil from any in the neighbouring
country. I have fcen the famous cave in the Peak, but think it very much inferior to
this ; and Lord Kinglborough, who has viewed the Grot d'Aucel in Burgundy, fays
that it is not to be compared with it.

But the commanding region of the Galtics defervcs more attention. Thofe who ar6
fond of fccnes in which nature reigns in all her wild magnificence, fliould vifit this flu-'
pendous chain. It confiUs of many valt mountains, thrown together in an aflembl>\ge

ill

hi
II

962

TOUKO's TOUR IN IRELAND.

of the mod interefling features, from boldnefs and height of the declivities, freedom
of outline, and variety of parts, filling a fpace of about fix miles by three or four.
Galtymorc is the hi^hell point, and rifes like the, lord and Either of the furrounding
progeny. From the top you look down upon a great extent of mountain, which (helves
;iway from him to the Ibuth, ead, and weft ; but to the north the ridge is almod a per*
pendicular declivity. On that fide the famous golden vale of Limenck and Tipperarr
ipreads a rich level to the eye, bounded by the mountains of Clare, King's and Queen s
counties, with the courfe of the Shannon, for many miles below Limerick. To the
fouth you look over alternate ridges of mountains, which rife one beyond another, till
in a clear day the eye meets the ocean near Dungarvon. The mountains of Waterford
and Knockmaldown fill up the fpace to the fouth-eaft. The weflcrn is the moil exten-
live view ; for nothing flops the eye till Mangerton and Maggilly Cuddy's Reeks point "
out the fpot where Killarney's lake calls for a farther excurfion. The profpeft extends
into eight counties, Cork, Kerry, Waterford, Limerick, Clare, Queen's, Tipperary,
King's.

A little to the wed of this proud fummit, below it in a very extraordinar)||^ollow, is
a circular lake of two acres, reported to be unfathomable. The defcriptions which I
have read of the craters of exhaufted volcanoej, leave very little doubt of this being
one } and the conical regularity of the fummit of Galtymorc fpeaks the fame language.
Eaft of this refpeftable hill, to ufe Sir William Hamilton's language, is a declivity of about
one quarter of a mile, and there Galtybeg rifes in a yet more regular cone, and between
the two hills is another lake, which from pofition feems to have been once -the crater
which threw up Galtybeg, as the firfl mentioned was the origin of Galtymore. Beyond
the former hill is a third lake, and ead of that another hill ; I was told of a fourth,
with another correfponding mountain. It is only the mere I'ummit of thcfe mountains
which rife above the lakes. Speaking of them below, they may be faid to be on the
tops of the hills ; they are all of them at the bottom of an alinoft regularly circular
hollow. On the fide next the mountain top are walls of perpendicular rocks, in re-
gular drata, and fome of them piled on each other, with an appearance of art rather
than nature. In tliefe rocks the eagles, which are fecn in numbers on the Galties, have
their nefls. Suppoiing the mountains to be of volcanic origin, and thcfe lakes the cra-
ters, of which 1 have not a doubt ; they are objefts of the greated cunofity, for there -
is an unufual regularity in every confiderable fummit, having its correfponding crater ;
but without this circumdance the fcenery is interefling in a very great degree. The
mountain fummits, which are often wrapped in the clouds, at other times exhibit the
freed outline ; the immenfe Icooped hollows which fink at your feet, declivities of fo
vad a depth as to give one terror to look down ; with the unufual forms of the lower
region of hills, particularly Bull hill, and Round hill, each a mile ovcj*, yet rifing out
of circular vales, with the regularity of femi-globcs, unite upon the whole to exhibit a
fcenery to the eye, in which the parts are of a magnitude fo commanding ; a charader
fo interefling, and a variety fo driking, that they well deferve to be examined by every
curious traveller.

Nor are thcfe immenfe outlines the whole of what is to be fecn in this great range of
mountains. Every glen has its beauties ; there is a confiderable mountain river, or
rather torrent, in every one of them ; but tl^e greated are the Funcheon, between Sc-
fang and Galtymore ; the Limedonc river^ between Galtymore and Round hill, and
the Groufe river, between Coolegarranroe, and Mr. O'Callaghan's mountain ; thei'e
prcfent to the eye, for a trail of about three miles, every variety that rock, water, and
^jiouQtain can give, thrown into all the fantaltic forms which art may attempt in orna-
mented

YOUNO'S TOOR IN IRELAND.

«<y3

Wented grounds, but always fails in. Nothing can pxceed the beauty of the water, whetr
not djfcoloured by rain, its lucid tranfparcncy fliews, at confiderable depths, every
pebble no bigger than a pin, every rocky bafon alive with trout and eels, that play and
dafli among the rocks, as if endowed with that native vigour which animates, in a fupc-
rior degree, every inhabitant of- the mountains, from the bounding red deer, and the
foaring eagle, down even to the fifties of the brook. Every five minutes you have u
waterfall in thefe glens, which in any other region, would flop every traveller to admire
it. Sometimes the vale takes a gentle declivity, and proft-nts to the eye, at one ftroke,
twenty or thirty falls, which render the fcenery all alive with motion ; the rocks are"
tofled about in the wildeft confufion, and the torrent burfts by turns from above,
beneath, and under them ; while the back ground is always filled up with the moun-
tains which ftretch around.

In the weftern Glen is the fined cafcade in all the Galties ; there are two falls, with-
a bafon in the rock between, but from fome points of view they appear one ; the rock
over which the water tumbles is about fixty feet high. A good line in which to view
thefe objefts is either to take the Killarney and Mallow road, to iVitcheKtown, and
from thence by Lord Kinglborough's new one, to Skeheenrinky, there to take one of
the Glens,, to Galtybeg, and Galtymore, and return to Mitchelftown by the Wolf's*
track. Temple hill, and the "Waterfall : or, if the Cork road is travelling, to make-
Dobbin's inn, at Batlyporeen, the head quarters, and view them from thence.

Having heard much of the beauties of a part of the Queen's County, I had nor
before feen, I took that line of country in my way on a journey to Dublin.

From Mitchelftown ta Cafliel, the road leads as far as Galbally in the route already
travelled from Cullen ; towards Caftiel the country is various. The only objeft de-
ferving attention, are the plantations of Thomaftovvn, the feat of Francis Mathew,
Efq. ; they confiit chiefly of hedge-row trees in double and treble rows, are well grown,
and of fuch extent as to form an uncommon woodland fcenein Ireland. Found the
widow Holland's inn, at Cafhel, clean and very civil. Take the road to Uriingford.
The rich ftieep paftures, part of the famous golden vale, reach between three and four
miles from Calnel to the great bog by Botany Hill, noted for producing a greater va-
riety of plants than common. That bog is feparated by only fmall tratis of land, from
the Ilring of bogs which extend through the Queen's County, from the great bog of
Allen ; it is here of confiderable extent, and exceedingly improveable. Then enter a*
low marfliy bad country, which grows worfe after pafling the fixty-fixth mile ftone,
and fucct (live bogs in it. Breakfafl at Johnltown, a regular village on a flight eminence,
built by Mr. Hayley ; it is near the Spaw of Ballyfpellin. Rows of trees are planted }
but their heads all cut off, I fuppofe from their not thriving, being planted too old.
Immediately on leaving thefe planted avenues, enter a row of eight or ten new cabins,-
at a diftance from each other, which appear to be a new undertaking, the land about
them all pared and burnt, and the alhes in heaps.

Enter a fine planted country, with much corn and good thriving quick hedges for
many miles. The road leads through a large wood, which joins Lord Afhbrook's
plantations, whofe houfe is fituated in the midft of more wood than almoft any one I
have feea in Ireland. Pafs Durrow ; the country for two or three miles continues all
indofed with fine quick hedges, is beautiful, and has fome refemblance to the beft parts
•f £il£x. Sir Robert Staple's improvements join this fine tratl j they are completed

in.

11!

■ .HI

864

YOUNo'fl TOUR IN IRBLAMD.

in a mofl; pcrfc*^ manner, the hedges well-grown, cut, and In fuch excellent order,
that I can fcarcoly believe inylilF to be in Ireland. His gates arc all of iron. Thcfo
fylvan fcenes continue through other feats beautifully fituated, aniidil gentle declivities
of the (ineft verdure, full grown woods, excellent h.-dgcs, and a pretty river winding
by the houfe. 1 he whole environs of fcveral would be admired in the beft parts of
England.

Crofs a great bog, within fight of Lord l)e Vefcey's plantations. The road leads
over it, being drained for that purpofe by deep cuts on either lidc. 1 fhould apprehend
this bo:; to be among the mofl improveable in the country.

Slept at Ballyroan, at an inn kept by three animals, who call thcmfelvcs women ; mot
with more impertinence than at any other in Ireland. It is an execrable hole In three
or four miles pals Sir John Piirnel's, prettily fituated in a neatly drefled lawn, with
much woLvl about it, and a lake quite alive with wild fowl. •

I'afs Monflcreven, and crols diredly a large bog, dr.iined and partly improved ; but
all of it bearing grafs, and feems in a Uate that might ealily be rciiuceJ to rich meadow,
with only a drcHing of lime. Mere I got again into the road I had travelled before.

I muft in general remark, that from near Uriingford to Dawfon Court, near Mon-
flcreven, which is completely acrofs the Queen's County, is a line of above thirty Engliih
miles, and is for that extent by much the mofl impfoved of any I have feen hi Ireland.
It is generally well planted, has many woods, and not confillinj^ of patches of planta-
tion jud by gentlemen's lioufes, but fpreading over the whole face of the country, fo as
to give it the richncfi; of an Knqlifh woodland fccne. What a country would Ireland
be, hr.d the inhabitants of the reft of it in.proved the whole like this !

PART II.
SECTION I.— Sc/7, Face of the Country, and Climate.

TO judge of Ireland by the converfation one fometimes hears in England, it would
be fuppofed that one half of it was covered with bogs, and the other with mountains
filled with Irifh ready to fly at the fight of a civilized being. There are people who will
fmile when they hear that, in proportion to the fizeof the two countries, Ireland is more
cultivated than England, having much lefs walle land of all forts. Of uncultivated
mountains there are no fuch tracts as are found in our four northern counties, and the
North Riding of Yorkfhirc, with the ealkrn line of Lancafler, nearly down to the Peak'
of Derby, which form an extent of above a hundred miles of wafle. The mofl con-
fiderable of this fort in Ireland are in Kerry, Gal way, and Mayo, and fome in Sligo and
Donnegal. But all thelo together will not make the quantity we have in the four
northern counties ; the vallies in the Irifli mountains are alio more inhabited, I think,
than thofe of Eiif^land, except where there are mines, and coniVqueiiily lome fort of
cultivation creeping uj) the fides. Natunl fertility, acre for acre over the two king-
doms, is certainty in favour of Ireland ; of this I believe there can fcarcely be a doubt
entertained, whin it is confidered that fome of the more beaudful, and even befl culti-
vated counties in England, owe almofl every thing to the capital art and indullry of
the inhabitants.

The circuinftance which flrik^? me a? the greatcfl fingularity of Ireland, is the.rocki-
ncfs of the foil, which IhoulJ fecm at liill light again.t tiiat degree of fertility ; but the

8 contrary

TOUNO'a TOUR IN IRBLAMO. 865

Cttptrir/ IS the h6t. Stone is fo general, that I have great reafon to believe the vrhoi^
jfland is one vad rock of different ftrata and kinds rifing out of the fua. I have rarely
heard of any great depths being funk without meeting with it. la general it appears
on the furface in every part of the kingdom, the flatted and moft fertile parts, as hu
mcrick, ripperary, and Meath, have it at no great depth, almod as much as the more
barren ones. May we not recognize in this ihe hand of bounteous Providence, which has
given, perhaps the mod doney foil in Europe to the moidefk climate in it ? If as much
rain fell upon the clays of England (a foil very rarely met with in Ireland, and never
without much done) as hWs upon the rocks of her nder ifland, thofe lands could not
be cultivated. But the rocks are here cloa^hed with verdure ; thofe of lime>done with
only a thin covering of mould, have the fofted and mod beautiful turf imaginable.

Of the great advantages refulting from the general plenty of lime>done and lime-
done gravel, and the nature of the bogs, I (hall have occafion to fpeak more particu>
brly hereafter.

The rockinefs of the foil in Ireland is fo univerfal, that it predominates in every fort.
One cannot ufe with propriety the terms clay, loam, fand, &c. it mud be zjioney clay, a
/ioney loam, a gravelly fand. Clay, efpecially the yellow, is much talked of in Ireland
but it is for want of proper difcrimination. I have once or twice feen almod a pure clay
upon the furface, but it is extremely rare. The true yellow clay is ufually found
In athin dratum under the furface mould, and over a rock ; harfti, tenacious, doney,
ilrong loams^ dlifficult to work, are not uncommon ; but they are quite different from
Enghdi clays.

Friable fandy loams, dry but fertile, are very common, and th^y form the bed foils
in the kingdom for tillage and fheep. lipperary and Rofcommon abound par-
ticularly in them. The mod fertile of all, are the bullock padures of iiimerick^ and
the banks of the Shannon in Clare, called the Corcajfes, Thefe are a mellow, putrid,
triable loam.

Sand which is fo common in England, and yet more common through Spain, France*
Germany, and Poland, quite from Gibraltar to Peterdiurgh, is no where met with in
Ireland, except for narrow flips of hillocks, upon the fea coad. Nor did I ever meet
with, or hear of a chalkey foil.

The bogs, of which foreigners have heard fo much, are very extcnfive in Ireland;
that of AUen extends eighty miles, and is computed to contain three hundred thoufand
acres. There arc others alio, very extenfive, and fmaller ones fcattered over the whole
kingdom ; but thefu are not m general more than are wanted for fuel. When I come
.to fpeak of the improvement of wade lands, I (hall defcribe them particularly.

Befides the great fertility of the foil, there are other circumdances which come
within my fphere to mention. Few countries can be better watered, by large and beaut-
ful rivers ; and it is remarkable, that by much the ftned parts of the kingdom are
on the banks of thefe rivers. Witnefs the Sure, Blakwater, the Liffy, the Boyne, the
Nore, the Barrow, and part of the Shannon, they wa(h a fcenery that can hardly be ex-
ceeded. From the rockinefs of the country, however, there are few of them that have
not obdru£tions, which are great impediments to inland navigation.

The mountains of Ireland give to travelling that intereding variety, which a flat
country can never abound with. And at the fame time, they are not in fuch number
as to confer the ufual charafter of poverty, which attends them. I was either upon or
Very near the moft confiderable in the kingdom. Mangerton, and the Rg eks, in Kerry j
the Galties in Corke j thofe of'Mourne in Down ; Crow Patrick, and Nephia in Mayo,

VOL. HI. 5 6 thefe

I '

■i

■-ii!

ill

YOUNO'a TOUR IH IRELAND.

*i6

thefe ire the principal In Ireland, and they are of a character, in height and fublimitjr,
\rhich Ihould render them the objeAs of every traveller's attention.

RelatiTe to the climate of I reland, a fliort refidence cannot enable a man to fpeak much
from hit own experience { the obfervationa I have made myfelf confirm the idea of its
lieing vaftly wetter than England ; from the 20th of June to the ?.oth of Odober, I kept
a regifter, and there were, in one hundred and twenty-tvo days, ft-venty-five of ruin, and
Tery many of them inceflant and heavy. I have examined nmiiar nrgifken I kept in
England, and can find no year that even approaches to (ucti a moiliuro a« thin. But there
Is a regider of an accurate diary publiihed, which compareB London and Corke. The
refult n, that the quantity at the latter place was double to that at London. See Smith*!
HiJ^. of Corke.

From the information I received, I have reafon to believe, that the rainy feafon fets in
ufuaHy about the firft of July, and continues very wet till Septe'niber or Uftob* w tn
there IS ufually a dry fine feafon of a month or fix weeks. I rciided in the cou ' ori e«
&c. from OAobertill March, and found the winter much more foft and .tie:, tid. .r
I experienced one in England. I was alfo a whole fummer there fi 7/^ s and it is fair
to mention, that it was as fine a one as over I knew in England, aougu L; "j means
lb hot. I think hardly fo wet as very many I have knowr. in }* i.^' nd. Titc tops of
the Galty mountains exhibited the only fnow we faw; and jj c i.olls, thry were fo
flight and rare that I believe myrtles, and yet tcndcri"- plants, would ha"e furvived
without any covering. But when I fay that the wintrr was not rematkuble for being
wet, I do not mean that we had a dry atiuofphere. The inches of rain which fell in
the winter I fpeak of, would not mark the moiUuro of the climate. As many inches
will fall in a fmgle tropical Ihower, as in a wliole year in England. See Mitc/jil's Pre-
fent State tf Great Britain and Nort/j jlnicrica. But if the cloud; j)rcfently dilperfe, and
a bright fun fhines, the air may foun be dry. The word circumllance of the climate
of Ireland, is the conllant moifiuro without rain. Wet a piece uf leather, and lay it in
a room where there k. neither fun nor tire, and it will not in fummer even be dry in a
month, I have kn< '>n gentlemen in Ireland deny their climate being moi tier than
England, but if they have eyes let them open them, and fee the verdure that cloathes
their rocks, ard compare it with ours in England — where rocky foils are of a ruilei
brown however fweet the food for fheep. Docs not their ifland lie more expofed to
the great Atlamic ; and does not the weft wind blow three fourths of a year ? If there
was another ifland yet more weflward, would not the climate of Ireland be in)proved I
Such perfons fpeak equally againfl faA, reafon, and philofophy. That the inoiflure
of a climate does not depend on the quantity of rain that falls, but on the powers of
aerial evaporation. Dr. Dobfon has clearly proved. Pbil, Tranf, vul. Ixvii. pact i.
p. 444. "'" "' -' ■*!" ■■' fMJ:''i ■.% •;■♦

BEFORE 1 conclude this article of th. . *< 'a.ir labourhig pocr in Ireland, I muft
obferve, that their ij.ippinefs depends n<^[ ni. / ' on the '\ent uf their laboui:,
their cloaths, or their food; the fuborc'natio'i ut .oe lower cuiles, degenerating into
opprcffion, is not to be overlooked. The poor in all countries, and under all govern*
ments, are both paid and fed, yet there is an infinite dift'erence between them in difie.
rent ones. This inquiry will by no means turn out fo favourable as the preceding
articles. It muft be very apparent to every traveller through that country, that the
hl>Juriog poor are treated with harHmefs, and are in all re^etts lo little coniidered,

5 . . >iit

VOUWO'a TOOR IK imLANS. i%

that their want of importance feems a p«rfed contrad to their fltuation in England, of
whicli country, comparatively I'praking, thev reign the fovcrcigns. The age has jtn-
proved To much in humanity, that even the p> <r Iriih have experienced its influence, and
are every day treated better and bettor ; hut tlill th« remnant of the old manners, the
ibominal'le Jidinftion of religion, united with f oppreflive conduft of the little
country gentlemen, or rather vermin of the kingdom, who never were out of it, alto,
gothti ucar dill very heavy on the poor people, and iubjeft them to fituations more
mortifying than we ever behold in England. The landlord of an Irilh eftate, inhabited
by Roman Catholics, is . fort of defpot vho yields ol>edience, in whatever concerns the
poor, to no law but that of Lis will. To dilcover what the liberty of the people is, vfe
mult live among them, and not look for it in the Ita! ^^-s ut the realm : the language
of written law may be that of liberty, but the fituation the poor may ipeak no lan-
guage but that of flavciy ; thcrv: is too much of this con \di£tiou in Ireland; a long
ieries of oppreflions, aided by many very ill-judged laws, i " brought landlords into
a habit of exerting a very luhy luperiority, and tht-ir valVa nto that of an nltnoft
unlimited fubmifTion : fpeaking a language that is dc 'nfed, , otetiing a religion that
is abhorred, and being dilarmcd, the poor find themfelr- in n uiy cafes fln" i even in
the boibm of written liberty. Landlords that have refi
humane in their ideas, but the habit of tyranny natural

even in this polifhcd age there are inftances of a L /ere can igt^ to< irds the poor, which
is quite unknown in England.

A landlord in Ireland can fcarcely invent an order which ^
dares to refufe to execute. Nothing ftuisfics him but an
refpcft, or any thing tending towards faucinefs, he may puni
whip with the mod perfe<a I'curity, a poor man would *
offered to lift his hands in his ^wn defence. Knockinjj-dowi)
in a manner that makes an Ei ;;|ifliman dare. Landlords ot
me that many of their cottars would think themfelves honour
and daughters fent for to the b'-ii oH their mader { a mark of i..
predion under which fuch peopio muft live. Nay, I Iwve hea'
of people being made free with without anv apprehtsnfion of the
it not be imagined that this is coi amon ; formerly it happened
ground. It mud ftrike the mo t carelefs traveller to fee who
into a ditch by a gentleman's foo man to make way for his carrut »• ; if they are over-
turned or broken in pieces, no matter, it is taken in patience ; w''" they to complain
they would perhaps be horfe-whij ped. The execution of the law \'s very much in
the hands ol judices of the peace, many of whom are drawn from (he moft illiberal
clnfs in the kingdom. If a poor man lodges a complaint againd a gentleman, or any
animul that choofes to call hlclf a p entleman, and the judice ifliies out a fummons for
his apjxjarance, it is a fixed aflVont and he will infallibly be calUd out. Where man-
ners are in confpiracy againd law, t > whom are the oppreffed people to haverecourfe ?
It is a fa^, that a poor man having conted with a gentleman mud — but I am talking
nonfcnfe, they know their fituation oo well to think of It ; they can have no defence
but by means of protedlion from one gentleman againd another, who probably proteds
his vaifal as he would the flieep he ir tends to eat.

i'he colours of this pidure are not charged. To affert that all thefe cafes are com.

mon, w«>uld be an exaggeration, but to fay that an unfeeling landlord will do all this

with iminmity is to keep dridly to truth : and what is liberty but a farce and a jei^, if

<■"' S & i its

d much abroad ire ufually
<'ontra^ the nund, fo that

^ant, labourer, or cottar

liwd fubmiflion. Dif*

ch his cane or his horfe-

lis lones broke, if he

pokcn of in the country

>nfequence have aflured

)y having their wives

ry that proves the op-

ineejotes of the lives

ice of a jury. But let

'Y dty, but law gains

1 rings of cars whipt

'I'.

I'M

«6t

TOOKO'S TOOK IK I1.BK.AND.

its blefltn^ are received as the £)voar of kindnefs and humanity, inftead of being the
inheritance of Right ?

Coniequcnces have flowed from thefe oppreflions which ought long ago to have put
» ftop to them. Ill l;"ngland we have heard much of White-boys, Steel-boys, Oak-boys,
Pcep-of-day-boys, &c. But thefe various infurgents are not to be confoutided, for they
are very different. The proper diitindiou in the difcontcnts of the people is into Pro-
reflant and Catliolic. All but the White>boys were among the manufafluring Protef-
tants in the north. The White-boys Catholic labourers in the fouth : from the belt
intelligence I could gain, the riots of the manufa^urers had no other foundation
but fuch variations inthe raanufadurc as all fabrics experience, and which they had
ihemfelves known and fubmitted to before. The cafe, however^ was diiferent with
tlie White-boys ; -who being labouring Catholics met with ail ;hofe oppreflions I have
defcribed, and would probably have continued in full fubmiHion had not very fevere
treatment in refpeft of tythes, united with a great fpeculative rife of rent about the fame
time, blown- up the flame of refiftance; the atrocious afts they were guilty of made
them the obiett of general indignation, adts were paiTed for their puniihment which
feemed calculated for the meridian of Barbary ; this arofc to fuch a height that by one
they were to be hanged under circumftances without the common formalities of a trial,
which, though Repealed the following feflion, marics the fpirit of punifhment ; while
others remain yet the law of the land, that would if executed tend more to raife than
quell an infurredion. From all which it is manifed that the gentlemen of Ireland
never thought of a radical cure from overlooking the real caufe of the difeafe, which
in fad hy in themfitlves, and not in the wretches they doomed to the gallows. Let
them change their own condud entirely, and the poor will not long riot. Treat them
hke n\en who ought to be as free as yourfelves : put an end to that fyftem of religious
perfecution which for feventy years has divided the kmgdom againft itfelf ; in thefe two
circmnilances lies the cure of mfurredion, perform them completely, and you will have
an affedionate poor, inftead of oppreiTed and difcontented vafials.

A better treatment of the poor in Ireland is a very material point of the welfare of
the whole Britifli Empire. Events may happen whicn may convince us fatally of this
truth; if npty^preffion mull have broken all the fpirit and refentment of men. By
what policy tl\e 'government of England can for fo many years have permitted fuch an
^bfurd iyfteni to be matured in Ireland, is beyond the power of pkun fenfc to difcover.

'tfif

(U,!?

:*l

i;>.,

Emigrations,

t '

ur^ti ,f. bvHT.J

. BEI^ORE the American war broke out, the Irilh and Scotch emigrations were a con-
ftant Aibie^ of converfatiQn in England, and occafioned much difcourfe even in parlia-
iiicnt. The common obfervation was, that if they were not ftopped, thofe countries would
bfrruined, and they were generally attributed to a great rife of rents. Upon going over to
Ireland I determined to omit no opportunities of difcovering the caufe and extent of
this emigration, and my information, as may be feen in the minutes of the journey,
was very regular. I have only a few general remarks to make on it here.
. The fpirit of emigrating in Ireland appeared to be confined to two circumftances, the
prefbyterian religion, and the linen manufadure. I heard of very few emigrants except
among manufaaurers of that pcrfuafion. The Catholics never went, they feem not
only tied to the country but almofl to the pariih in which their anceflors lived. As to
thv envgraUon ia the aorth it was an error in England to fuppofe it a novelty which

arofe

VOUMO^fl TOTTIl m IRBtAKB.

W^' '■

«roft with the incittifc in rents. The conthiry was the faft, it had fubfifted perhaps
forty years, infomuch that at the ports of Belfaft, Derry, &c. the fajfenger trade, as,
they called it, had long been a regular branch of commerce, which employed feveral
(hips, and confilted in carrying people to America. The increafing population of the
country made it an incre;\iing trade, but when the linen trade was low, the pajfeager
trade was always high. At the time of Lord Donnegall's letting his eftate in the north
the linen bufineis fuft*ered a temporary decline, which fent great numbers to America,
and gave rife to the error that it was occafioned by the increafe of his rents : the h6c,
however, was otherwife, for great numbers of thofe who went from his lands afltually^
fold thofo teafes for confiderable fums, the hardfliip of which was fuppolied to have driven
them to America. Some emigration, therefore, always exi(led, and its increafe dependo
ed on the fluduations of linen; bm as to the effe^ there was as much error in ti^
conclufions drawn In England as before in the caufe. , . ^.. ^j _, ;

It is the misfortune of all manufadlures worked for a foreign market to be :f >n an.
infecure footing, periods of declenfion will come, and when in confequence u» then^
great numbers of people are out of employment, the beft circumftance is their enlif.
ting in the army or navy ; and it is the common refult ; but unfortunately the manu*
fadure in Ireland (of which I ihall have occafion to fpeak more hereafter) h not confined
as it ought to be to towns, but fpreads into all cabins of the country. Being half farmers,
half manufadlurers, they have too much property in cattle, &c. to enlift when idle; if
they convert it into ca(h it will enable them to pay their palfage to America, an altemative
always chofen in preference to the military life. The confequence is, that they muft live
without work till their fubllance is quite confumed before they will enlift. Men who
fuch a fituation that from various caufes they cannot work, and won't enlift^

are m

fhould emigrate, if they ftay at home they mult remain a burthen upon the community j
emigration fhould not, therefore, he condemned in ftates fo ill governed as to pofleis
many people willing to work, but without employment..

. BI-

SECTION W.-^Roads^Cars.

> (

FOR a country, fo very far behind us as Ireland, to have got fuddenly fo much the
Aart of us in the article of roads, is a ipe^lacle that cannot fail to fh-ike the Englifh
traveller exceedingly. But from this commendation the turnpikes in general muft be
excluded, they are as bad as the bye-roads are admirable. It is a common complaint,,
that the tolls of the turnpikes are fo many jobs, and the roads left in a flate that difgrace
the kingdom.

The following is the fyftem on which the crofs-roads are made. Anyperfon, wifhin^
to make or mend a road, has it meafured by two perfons, who fwear to the meafure-
inent before a jufHce of the peace. It is defcribed as leading from one market-town
to another (it matters not in what direction), that it will be a public good, and that it
will require fuch a fum per perch of twenty-one feet, to make or repair the fame } a
certificate to this purpofe (of which printed forms are fold), with the blanks filled up, is
figned by the meafurers, and alfo by two) perlbns called overfeers, one of whom is
ufually the perfon applying for the road, the other the labourer he intends to employ aa
an overfeer of the work, which overfeer fwears alfo before the juftice the truth of the
valuation. The certificate, thus prepared, is given by any perfon to fome one of the
grand jury, at either ©f the alTizes, but ufually in the fpring. When all the common
bufinefs of trials is over, the jury meets on that of roads ; the chairman reads the
certificates, and they arc all put to the vote, whether to be granted or not. If re-

jefted*

' '■!

87°

YbU»iO*iB TOUR m IRBLAKDt

jcftod, they are torn in pieces and no further notice taken ; if granteJ, they are put on
the file.

This vote of approbation, without any farther form, enables the perfon who applied
for the prefentment immediately to conftruft or repair the road in queftion, which he
mud do at his own expcnce ; he muft finifh it by the following alfizss, when he is to
fend a certificate of his having expended the money purfuant to the application ; this
certificate is figned by the foreman, who jlfo figns an order on the treafurer of the
county to pay him, which is done immediately. In like manner are bridges, houfes of
corredion, gaols, &c. &c. built and repaired. If a bridge over a river which parts
•two counties, half is done by one and the other half by the other county.

The expence of thefe works is raifed by a tax on the lands, paid by the tenant ; fn

fome counties it is acreable, blit in others it is on the plough landt and as no two plough

lands are of the fame Vize is a very unequal tax. In the county of M^ath it is acreable,

•and amounts to one (hilling per acre, being the highefl in Ireland ;'but in general it is

-from three-pence to fixpence per acre, amd amounts of late years through the whole

kingdom to one hundred and forty thoufand pounds a-year.

The juries will very rarely grant a prefentment for a road which amounts to above
•fifty pounds, or for more than fix or (even (hillings a perch, fo thit if a perfon wants
more to be made than fuch a fum will do, he divides it into two or three difierent mea-
furements or prefentments. By the a£t of parliament all prcfentment-roads mufl be
twenty-one feet wide at lead from fence to fence, and fourteen feet of it formed with
(lone or gravel.

As the power of the grand jury extends in this manner to the cutting new roads
where none ever were before, as well as to the repairing and widening old ones, ex-
«lurive, however, of parks, gardens, &c. it was neceffary to put a refiridion againft the
wanton expence of it. Any prefentment may be traverfed that is oppofed, by denying
the allegations of the certificate; this is fure of delaying it uniil another alii zes, and in
the mean time perfonsaire appointed to view the line of road demanded, and report on
the neceiTily or hard(hip of the cafe. The payment of the money may alfo be traverfed
after the certificate of its being laid out ; for if any perfon views and finds it a manifeft
Impontion and job, he has that power to delay payment until the caufe is cleared up
and proved. But this traverfe is not common. Any perfons are eligible for afldng
prefentments ; but it is ufually done only by refident gentlemen, agents, clergy, or re-
fpe^table tenantry. It follows nece(rariiy, that every perfon is defirous of making the
roads leading to his own houfe, and that private iutereil alone is confidcred in it, which
I have heard c bjeded to the mcafure ; but this I mufl own appeal's to me the great
merit of it. Whenever individuals ad for the public alone, the public is very badly
ferved ; but when the purfuit of their own interell is the way to benefit the public, then
is the public gxwd fure to be promoted ; fuch is the cafe of prefentment of roads : for
a few years the gocxi roads were all found leading from houfes like rays from a center,
with a lurrounding fpace, whhout any contmunication ; but every year biought the
remedy, until in a (hort time, thofe rays pointing from fo m;;iiy centers mot, and then
the communication wascoiiipletf. The original aft paffed but lovontocn years ago, and
Ihetflcft of it in ail parts ot the kingdom is fo great, ihatl fouuJ it pcrfeftly pradicablc
<o travel upon wheels by a map ; I will go here ; I will go tin re ; I could trace a route
upon paper as wiUl as fancy could didlate, and every where I /ound beautiful roads with-
out break or hindrance, to enable u.e to realize my defigr. What a figure would a
|)erfon make in England., who fhould attempt to n>ove in tl'at manner, where the roads,
^6 Dr. Burn has u cU oblervcd, aie almoll in as bad a (I: tc ii& in the tiioe of Philip and

• Mary.

YOITNO'S Town IN IRELAND.

8y»

•ts

Mary. In a few years there will not be a piece of bad road except turnpikes in all Irei.
land. The money raifed for this firft and moft important of all national purpofes, k
expended among the people who pay it, employs themfelves and their teams, encourages
their agriculture, and facilitates fo greatly the improvement of wafte lands, that it ought
always to be confidered as the fird itep to any undertaking of that fort.

At firft, roads, in common with bridges, were paid out of the general treafure of the
county, but by a fubfequent aft the road tax is now on baronies ; each barony pays
for its own roads. By another adl juries were enabled to grant prel'entmtnts of narrow
mountain roads, at two fhillings and fixpence a perch. By another, they were em-
powered to grant prefentments of footpaths, by the fide of roads, to one ftiiiling a perch.
By a very late aft, they are alfo enab'ed to contraft at three-halfpence per perch per
annum from the firft making of a road, for keeping it in repair, which before could not
be done without a frefh,prefenfment. Arthur King, Efq. of Moniva, whofe agriculture
is defcribed in the preceding minutes, and who at that time reprefented the county of
Galway, was the worthy citizen whofijft brought this excellent meafiire into parliament:
Ireland, and every traveller that ever vifits it ought, to the lateft time, to revere the
memory of fuch adiltinguifhed benefi\ftor to the public. Before that time the roads,
like thofe of PIngland, remained impafliiblc, under the mifcrable police of the fix days'
labour. Similar good eft'efts would here flow from adopting the meafure, which would
eafe the kingdom of a great burthen in its public effeft absolutely contemptible ; and
the tax here, as in Ireland, .ought to be fo laid, as to be borne by the tenant, whofe-
bufinefs it is at prcfent to repair.

Upon the imperfeftions of the Irilh fyftem I have only to remark, that juries fliould,.
in fome cafes, be more ready than they are to grant thefe prefentments. In general,
they are extremely liberal, but fomerimes they take filly freaks of giving none, or very
few. Experience having proved, from the general goodnefs of the roads, that abufes
cannot be very great, they fhould go on with fpirit to perfeft the great work, through-
out the kingdom ; and as a check upon thofe who lay out the money, it might perhaps
be advifeable fo print county maps of the prcfentment roads,, with correfponding lifts
and tables of the names of all pcrfons who have obtained prefentments, the fums they
received, and for what roads. 'Ihefe fliould be given freely by the jurymen, to all their
acquaintance, that every man might know, to whc'"- careleffnefs- or jobbing the public
was indebted for bad roads, when they had paid for good ones. Such a praftice would
certainly deter many.

At eleven million forty-two thoufand fix hundred and forty-two acKcs in the king-
dom, 140,000!. a year amounts to jull three-pence an acre for the whole territory:.!
very trifling tax for fuch an improvement, and which abnoft ranks in public eafe and
benefit with that of the poft-office.

SECTION III. - Manners and Cvjimti

QiiiJ Itrgcs lint moiibus,.
Vana proticiunl !

IT is but an illiberal bufinefs for a traveller, who defigns topublKB remarks upon a'
country to fit down cooly in hisclofet and write a fatire on the inhabitants. Severity of
that fort muft be enlivened whh iut uncommon fhare ©f wit and ridicule, to pleafe.
Where very grofs abfurdities are found, it is fair and manly to note them ;. but to enter
into cbarafter and difpofition is. generally uncandid, fince there aie no people but mi^jht

,!ifi

!!''!■

8^1 VOUKO'S TOUR 'IN IRBLAN*.

be better than they are found, and none but have virtues which deferve attention, at leaft
ts much as their failings j for thefe reafons this fedion would not have found a place in
my obfervations, had not fome perfons, of much more flippancy than wifdom, given \evy
grofs mirreprefentations of the Irifti nation. It is with pleafure, therefore, that I take up
the pen on the prefent occafion ; as a much longer refidence there enables me to exhi-
bit a very different pifture ; in doing this, I (hall be free to remark, wherein I think
the condu£t of certain claifes may have given rife to general and confequently injurious
condemnation.
^ There are three races of people in Ireland, fo diftind, as to ftrike the lead attentive
traveller : thefe are the Spanifh which are found in Kerry, and a part of Limerick and
Corke, tall and thin, but well made, a long vifage, dark eyes, and long black lank
hair. The time is not remote when the Spaniards had a kind of fettlement on the coaft
of Kerry, which feemed to be overlooked by govemnient. There were many of
them in Queen Elizabeth's reign, nor were they entirely driven out till the time
of Cromwell. There is an ifland of Valentia on that coaft, with various other names,
certainly Spanifh. The Scotch race is in the north, where are to be found the feature
which arc fuppofed to mark that people, their accent and many of their cudoms. In
a diftrid near Dublin, but more particularly in the baronies of Bargie and Forth in the
county of Wexford, the Saxon tongue is fpoken without any mixture of the Irifli, and
the people have a variety of cudoms memioned in the minutes, which didinguilh them
from their neighbours. The red of the kingdom is made up of mongrels. The Mi«
lefian race of Irifli, which may be called native, are fcattered over the kingdom, but
chiefly found in Connaught and Munder; a few confiderable families, whofe genealogy
is undoubted, remain, but none of them with confiderable poffedions except the
O'Briens and Mr. O'Neil ; the former have near twenty thoufand pounds a year in the
family, the latter half as much, the remnant of a property once his ancedors, which
now forms fix or feven of the greated edates in the kingdom. O'Hara and M'Dermqt
are great names in Connaught, and O'Donnohue a confiderable one in Kerry ; but I heard
of a family of O'Drifchal's in Corke, who claim an origin prior in Ireland to any of the
MileHan race.

The only divilions which a traveller, who paifed through the kingdom without making
any refidence could make, would be into people of confiderable fortune and mob. The
intermediate diviiion of the fcale, fo numerous and refpt£lable in England, would hardly
attra^ the lead notice in Ireland. A refidence in the kingdom convinces one, however,
that there is another clafs in general of fmall fortune, — country gentlemen and renters
of land. The manners, habits, and cudoms of people of confiderable fortune are much
the fame every where, at lead there is very little difference between England and Ire-
land, it is among the common people one mud look for thofe traits by which we dif>.
criminate a national charader. The circumdances which druck me mod in the common
Irifh were, vivacity and a great and eloquent volubility of fpeech ; one would think they
could take fnuff" and talk \Aiihout tiring till doomfday. They are infinitely more cheer-
ful and lively than any thing we commonly fee in England, having nothing of that in-
civility of fullen (ilence with which fo many Englifhmen feetn to wrap themfelves up,
as if retiring within their own importance. Lazy to an cxcefs at work, but fo fpiritedly
adive at pl/ty, that at hurling, which is the cricket of favages, they fhew the greated
feats of agility. Their love of fociety is as remarkable as their curiofity is infatiable ; and
their hoipitality to all comers, be their own poverty ever fo pinching, has too much me-
rit to be forgotten. Pleafed to enjoyment with a joke, or witty repartee, they will repeat
it with fuch exprcflion, that the laugh will be univerUl. Warm friends and revengeful

enemies ',

young's tour in IRELAND. 873

.enemies; they are inviolable in tluir fccrccy, and inevitable in thtir vefentmcnt ; with
fuch a notion of honour, that nrithcr tlu'^at nor reward would induce thcni to betray
the fecret or perfon of a man, tiiougli an opprcn'or, whofe property they woulii pUnider
. Nvithout ceremony. Hard drinkers and quarn-ifonic ; p,rcat liars, but civil, fubmiflive,
and obedient. Dancing is fo univerfal amonq thi;n), that tiicro arc every where itinerant
dancing-mafters, to whom the cottars pay fixpcnce a quarter for teaching; their families.
Befides the Irifli jig, which they can dance uith a niofl: luxiuiant exprellion, minuets
and country-dances are taught ; and I even heard fouK; talk'of cotillions coming in.

Some degree of education is alfo general, hedge fchools, at- they arc called, (they might
as well be termed ditch ones, for I have feen many a ditch full of fchnlars,) are every
where to be met with where reading and writing are taugiit j fchools are alio common
for men ; 1 have feen a dozen great fellows at fehool, and was told they were educating
with an intention of being priells. Many llrokes in their charader are evidently to be
, al'cribed to the extreme opprcflion uniler which they live. If they are as great thieves
and liars as they are reported, it is certainly owing to this caufe.

If from the lowed clafs we rife to the higlielt, all there is gaiety, pleafuro, luxury,
and extravagance; the town life at Dublin is formed on the model of that of London.
Every night in the winter there is a ball or a party, where the polite circle meet, not to
enjoy but to fweat each other ; a great crowd crammed into twenty feet fquare gives a
zed to the nf^rt/nents of fmal! talk and whilh 'I'here are four or five houfes large
enough to receive a company coaimodioufly, but the red are fo fmall as to make par-
ties detedable. '1 here is however an agreeable fociety in Dublin, in which a man of
large fortune will not find his time heavy. The dile of living may be guelTed from the
fortunes of the refident nobility and great commoners ; there are about thirty that pof-
fefs incomes from feven to twenty thoufand pounds a year. The court has nothing
remarkable or fplendid in it, but varies very much, according to the private fortune or
•■'liberality of difpofuion in the lord Ueutcnant.

In the country their life has fome circumdances which are not commonly feen in
England. Large tra6\s of land are kept in hand by every body to fupply the deficiencies
of markets ; this gives fuch a plenty, that, united with the lownefs of taxes and pricc-J,
one would fuppofe it diflicult for them to fpend their incomes, if Dublin in the winter
did not lend aflidance. Let it be confidered that the prices of meat are much lower
than in England ; poultry only a fourth of the price ; wild fowl and lifli in vadly greater
plenty ; rum and brandy not half the price ; codco, tea, and wines far cheaper ; labour
not above a third ; fervants' wages ripon an average thirty per cent, cheaper. TIrat
taxes are inconfiderable, for there is no land-tax, no poor-rates, no window-tax, no candle
or foap-tax, only half a wheel-tax, nofervants-tax, and a variety of other articles heavily
burlhened in F,ni';lan*l, but not in Ireland. C'onliilerin;; all this, one would think they
could not fpend their inconus; they do contrive it however. In this bullnels they arc
afiilled by two cudoms that have an admirable tendency to if, great numbers of horfes
and fervants.

lit England fuch extenfive demcfnes would be parks around the feats for beauty as
much as ul'e, but it is not lb in Ireland ; the words deer-park and demeihe are to be
dillinguidied ; there are great Jomi-fniii without any parks, but a want of tade, too
common in Ireland, is having a deer-park at a didimce from the houfe ; the reHiience
furrounded by walls, or hedges, or cabins ; and the lawn inclo[ure fcattered with ani-
mals of various forts, perhaps three miles ou, 1 lie hnall quantity of corn proportioned
to the total acres, duws how little tillage is attended to cveii'by thole who ar<; the bed
aide to carry it on ; and the colunm of turnips proves in the cleared Inan.^er, what
VOL. m. 5 r the

flfli

i'l'

\(-i

hi:

$f4 young's tour in IRELAND.

the progrefs of improvement is in that kingdom. The number of horfes may ahnoft
be efteenied a fatire upon common fenfe ; were they well fed enough to be ufeful, they
would not be fo numerous, but I have found a good hack for a common ride fcarce in
a houfe where there were a hundred. Upon an average, the horfes in gentlemen's
ftables throughout the kingdom are not fed half fo well as they are in England by men
of equal fortune ; yet the number makes the expence of them very heavy.

Another circumftance to be remarked in the country life is the miferablenefs of many
of their houfcs ; there are men of five thoufand a year in Ireland, who live in habitations
that a man of feven hundred a year in England would difdain ; an air of ncatnels order,
drefs, and proprete, is wanting to a furprifing degree around the manfion; even new and
excellent houfes have often nothing of this about them. But the badnefs of the houfes is
remedying every hour throughout the whole kingdom, for the.number of new ones juft
buih, or building, is prodigioufly great. I fliould fuppofe there were not ten dwellings
in the kingdom thirty years ago that were fit for an Englifli pig to live in. Gardens
were equally bad, but now they are running into the contrary extreme, and wall in five,
fix, ten, and even twenty Irilh acres for a garden, but generally double or treble what
is nc-ceflary.

The tables of people of fortune are very plentifully fpread ; many elegantly, differing
in nothing from thofe of England. I think I remarked that venifon wants the flavour
it has with us, probably for the fame rcafon, that the produce of rich parks is never
equal to that of poor ones ; the moiflure of the climate, and the richnefs of the foil,
give fat but not fiavour. Another reafon is the fmallnefs of the parks, a man who has
three or four thoufand acres in his hands, has not perhaps above three or four hundred
in his deer-park, and range is a great point for good venifon. Nor do I think that
garden vegetables have the flavour found in thofe of England, certainly owing to the
climate ; green peas I fotmd every where perfedly infipid, and lettuce, &c. not good.
Claret is the common wine of all tables, and fo much inferior to what is drank in Eng.
Jand, that it does not appear to be the fame wine ; but their port is incomparable, fo
much better than the Englilh, as to prove, if proof was wanting, the abominable adulte-
rations 4t muft undergo with us. Drinking and duelling are two charges which have
long been alledged againft the gentlemen of Ireland, but the change of manners which
has taken place in that kingdom is not generally known in England. Drunkennefs
ought no longer to be a I'eproach, for at every table 1 was at in Ireland I faw a perfeft
freedom reign, every perfon drank jufl as little as they pleafed, nor have I ever been
afked to drink a fingle glafs more than I had an inclination for ; I may go farther and
alTert that hard drinking is very rare among people of fortune ; yet it is certain that
they fit much longer at table than in England. I was much furprifed at firfl going over
to find no fummons to coffee, the company often fitting till eight, nine, or ten o'clock
before they went to the ladies. If a gentleman likes tea or coffee, he retires without
faying any thing ; a flranger of rank may propofe it to the niafler of the houfe, who
from cuftom contrary to that of England, will not ffir till he receives fuch a hint, as
they think it would imply a defire to fave their wine. If the gentlemen were generally
defirous of tea, I take it for granted they would have it, but their flighting is one incon-
venience to fuch as defire it, not knowing when it is provided, converfation may carry
them beyond the time, and then if they do trifle over the coffee it will certainly be cold.
Tfiere is a want of attention in this, which the ladies fhould remedy, if they will not
break the old cufloin and fend to the gentlemen, which is what they ought to do, they
certainly fhould have a falver frefh. 1 mufl however remark, that at the politefl tables,
which arc thofe of people who have refided much out of Ireland, this point isconflucled
exactly as it is in Eiii-land.

Duelling

young's tour in IRELAND. 875

D'lclUng was once carried to an excefs, which was a real reproach and fcandal to
tlie kingdom ; it of courle proceeded from exceflive drinking ; as the caufe has difap-
peared, the eff«dt has nearly followed ; not however entirely, for it is yet far more com-
mon among people of falhion than in England. Of all praftices a man who felt for
the honour of his country, would vcifh foontfl to banifh this, for there is not one favour-
able conclulion to be drawn from it : as to courage nobody can qucflion that of a po-
lite and enlightened nation, entitled to a Ihare of the reputation of the age ; but it im-
plies uncivilized manners, an ignorance of thofc forms which govern polite focictics, or
elfe a brutal drunkennefs ; the latter is no longer the caiife or the pretence. As to
the former, they would place the national charafter fo backward, would take from it
fo much of its pretence to civilization, elegance and politenefs of manners, that no true
Irilhman would be pleafed with the imputation. Certain it is, that none are fo captious
as thofe who think themfelves neglected or defpifed ; and none are fo ready to believe
themfelves either one or the other, as perfons unufed to good company. Captious people,
therefore, who are ready to take an affront, mull inevitably have been accuftomed to ill
company, unlefs there fhould be fomething uncommonly crooked in their natural dif-
pofitions, which is not to be fuppofed. Let every man that fights his one, two, three,
or half a dozen duels, receive it as a maxim, that every one he adds to the number is
but an additional proof of his being ill educated, and having vitiated his manners by the
contagion of bad company ; who is it that can reckon the molt numerous rencontres ?
who but the bucks, bloods, landjobbers, and little drunken country gentlemen ? Ought
not people of fafliion to blufli at a praftice which will very foon be the diftindion only
of the mod contemptible of the people ? the point of honour will and mull remain for
the decifion of certain affronts, but it will rarely be had recourfe to in polite, fenfible,
and well-bred company. The pradkice among real gentlemen in Ireland every day de-
clining is a ftrong proof that a knowledge of the world correfts the old manners, and
confcquently its having ever been prevalent was owing to the caufes to which I have
attributed it.

There is another point of manners fomewhat connefted with the prefent fubjeft,
which partly induced me to place a motto at the head of this feftion. It is the conduct
of juries ; the criminal law of Ireland is the fame as that of England, but in the execu-
tion it is fo different, as fcarccly to be known. I believe it is a faft, at lead I have been
affured fo, that no man was ever hanged in Ireland for killing another in a duel : the
fecurity is fuch that nobody ever thought of removing out of the way of juftice, yet there
have been deaths of that fort, which had no more to do with honour than (tabbing in
the dark. I believe Ireland is the only country in Europe, I am fure it is the only
part of the Britifh dominions where affociations among men of fortune are neceffary for
apprehending ravilhers. It is fcarcely credible how many young women have even of
late years been ravilhed, and carried off in order (as they generally have fortunes) to
gain to appearance a voluntary marriage. Thefe adions, it is true, are not committed
by the clafs I am confidering at prefent ; but they are tried by them, and acquitted. I
think there has been only one man executed for that crime, which is fo common as to
occafion the affociations 1 mentioned ; it is to this fupine execution of the law that fuch
enormities are owing. Another circumftance which has the effeft of fcreening all forts
of offenders, is men of fortune protecting them, and making intereft for their acquittal,
which is attended with a variety of evil confequences. I heard it boafted in the county
of Fermannagh, that there had not been a man hanged in it for two and twenty years ;
all I concluded from this was, that there had been many a jury who defcrved it richly.

':Um

•fi'.t

T 2

Let

876 VOUNO'S TOUR IN IRELAND.

Let me, however, concliulo what I have to obferve on the condufb of the principal
people refulintj; in IrclanJ, that there arc }»rcat numbers among them who are as Lb n»l
in alt their i loas as any people in Europe; that ihcy have feen the errors whicli h.ve
given an ill charatler lo the manners oF their country, and done every tliin>r that example
could etVfd to produce a change : that th.it happy change has been partly elTedeJ,
and is efleding •-vi.'ry hour, inlomucli that a man may go into a va(t variety of families
which he will find actuated by no other principles than ihofe of the moll cultivated po-
litenefs, and the molt liberal urbanity.

But I mult now come to another clafs of" people, to whofe conduct it is aJmofl en-
tirely owin^, that tin- charadcT of the nation has not that luftre abroad, which I dare
alTert it will foon very generally niurit: this is the clafs of little country gentlemen *;
tenants, who drink their clarel by means of protit rents ; jol^bers in farms ; bucks j
your fellows with round hats, edged with gold, who hunt in the day, get drunk in the
evening, and fight the next morning. I ihall not dwell on a fubjed fo perfedly difa-
greeable, but remark that thefe are the men among whom drinking, wrangling, quar-
reling, fighting, ravifhing &c. &c. &c. are found as in their native toil ; once to a de-
gree that made them the pelt of fociety ; they are growing better, but even now, one or
two of them got by accident i where they have no bufinefs) into better company are
fufficient very much to derange the pleafuresthat refult from a liberal converfation. A
new fpirit ; new falhions ; new modes of politenefs exhibited by the higher ranks are
imitated by the lower, which will, it is to be hoped, put an end to this race of beings ;
and either drive their fons and coufins into the army or navy, or fink them into plain
farmers like thofe we have in England, where it is common to fee men with much gf eater
property without pretending to be gentL-men. 1 repeat it from the intelligence I re-
ceived, that even this clafs are very different from what they were twenty years ago, and
improve fo fall that the time will foon come when the national character will not be
degraded by anv fet.

That charader is upon the whole refpedable : it would be unfair to attribute to the
nation at large the vices and follies of oidy one clafs of individuals. Thofe perfons from
whom it is candid to take a general eftimate do credit to their country. That they are
a people learned, lively, and ingenious, the admirable authors they have produced will
bean eternal monument •, wiincfs their Swift, Sterne, Congreve, Boyle, Berkeley, Steele,
Farquhar, Southerne, and Goldfmith. Their talent for eloquence is felt, and acknow-
ledged' in the parliaments of both the kingdoms. Our own fervice both by fea and
land, as well as that (unfortunately for us) of the principal monarchies of Europe fpeak
their Itcady and determined courage. Every unprejudiced traveller who vifits them
will be as much pleated with their chearfulnefs, as obliged by their hofpitality ; and
will find them a brave, polite, and liberal people.

• This exprtfTion it not to he taken in a general fenfe. God foibid I fhoulJ give this charafler of all
country f;iiitlcmcn of fmnll fortunes in Ireland : I have myftlf been acquainted with exceptions. — I meaa
only that in gcoeial they arc not the moil liberal people in the kingdom.

LETTERS

. ",^'^' ITT Eji s '/ ;:" ■. ; . '

CONCERNING

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE BASALTEP.

or THE
NORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM ;

V 1 T H
AN ACCOUNT OK 1T4 ANTlCiU ITll J, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS.

Br THE REV. IFILLUM HAMILTON, J. M. F. T. C. D.

LETTER I.

DEAR SIR, Portrujh, July 20, 1784.

MY natural ciiriofity, and the wifh I had to trace the whole extent of the Bafaltcs
of this couniry, iraluced me to make a fliort voyage, fome dnysago. to the iflarid
of Raj^hery *, which lies fix or feven miles off the north coall of Antrim, oppofite to
Ballycaiile bay,

I enjoyed a good deal of pleafure in examining that little fpot, which to mo was almofh
a new kingiloni ; and if an accomit of it can at all contribute to amufc an idle hour of
yours, i fliall more than double my own gratification.

Though the ifland be not very remote, yet its fituation, fo much expofed to the
northern ocean, and the turbulence of its irregular tides, have thrown fuch difficulties
in the way of landlmen, that few have vifited it but from necefllty ; and fome curious
arrangements of the columnar bafaites, with which it abounds, have never been noticed,
except by the inhabitants.

'1 he chalky fc iffs of Raghery, crowned by a venerable covering of brown rock, form
a very beautiful and piclurefque appearance as one fails toward them ; and if the tur-
bulence of the fea do not rellrain the eyes and fancy from expatiating around, luch a
flrikiiig fimilitude appears between this and the oppofite coafl, as readily fuggcds an idea
that the ill .nd might once have formed a part of the adjoining country, from whence it
has been difunitcd by fome vi(;lent iliock of nature.

You, to whom demondration is familiar, will naturally wonder to fee two flmres,
feven or eight miles afunder, lo expediticuily connedod by fuch a ilender and fanciful
middle term as apparent fimilitude; and yet the likenels is fodrong, and attended with
fuch peculiar circumftances, that I do not entirely defpair of prevailing even on you to
acknowledge my opinion as a probable one.

It does not appear unreafonable to conclude, that if two pieces of land, feparated
from each other by a chaCni, be compofed of the fame kind of materials, limilarly ar-
ranged at equal elevations, thefe different lands might have been originally cnneded,
aiKi the chalm be only accidental. For let us conceive the m itcriais 10 be dcpofited
by any of the elements of fir^.^ air, earth, or water, or by any caufe wluuever, and it is
not likely that this caufe, otherwife general, fliould iu all its operations regularly (lop
fliort at the chafm.

* Rachlin, Rachrin.

•j- White lime-ftone.

The

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iufl

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878

Hamilton's letters om thr basaltes or thk

The materials of which the iflanil of Raghcry is compofed, arc accurately the fame
as thnfc of the oppofite (hore, and the arrangement anfvvcrs In clofcly, as ahnoll to de.
monllrate at firfl view their former union. But to explain this more clearly, it will be
tnccefl'ary to give you a general Iketch of this whole line of coafh

The northern coad of Antrim feems to have been originally a compact body of lime,
ftone rock, confiderably higher than the prel'ent U»vel ot the fea; over which, at lome
later period, cxtenfive bodies of vitriliable Hone have been fuperinduced in a (late of
foftnefs. The original calcarious flratum appears to be very much deranged and inti r-
rupted by thefe incumbent mafl'cs. In fume places it is deprijlled greatly below its an-
cient level — fhortly after it is borne down to the water's edge, and can be tr.iced under
its furface — by and by it dips entirely, and fecms irretrievably loft under the fuperior
mafs — in a (liort fpace, hcvever, it begins to emci^a', and att^-r a fimilar variation reco-
vers its original height. '

In this manner, and with fuch repeated viciiritudos of elevation and deprtflion, it pur-
fucs a courfe of forty miles along the coafl:, from Louf/h I'oyle to Lough Lurnr.

It naturally becomes an objeft of curiofity to enquire what the iubltance is from
which the lime-Hone feems thus to have fhrunk, burying iifelf (as it were in terror)
under the covering of the ocean : and on expmination it appears to be the columnar
bafaltes, under which the lime-ftone flratum is nc\ ?.• found, nor indeed docs it ever ap-
proach nearer to it without evident figns of derau,; •■^<^"t-

Thus for example : — the chalky cliffs may be difcovered a little eaftward from Port-
rufh ; after a fliort courfe, they are fuddenly deprelfed to the water's edge under Dun-
luce caflle, and foon after loft entirely in pafTing near the bafalt hill ofDunluce, whoio
craigs near the fea are all columnar. At the river Bufh the lime-ftone recovers, and
ikims for a moment along the level of the fea, but immediately vunifhes on approaching
toward the great bafalt promontory of Bengorc, under which it is completely loft for
the fpacc of more than three miles.

Eaft\*ard from tiienco, beyond P.-nfeverick caOle, it again emerges, and rifmg to a
confidcrablc height, formsa bcautifi;! barrier to White Park bay and the Ballinloy fliore.
After this it fuft'ers s temporary deprelfion near the bafalt hill of Knockfoghy, and then
ranges along the coaft as far as Ballycallle bay.

Fairhead, ftanding with magnificence on its mafTy columns of bafaltes, again exter-
minates it ; and once again it rifes to the eaftvvard, and purfues its devious courfe,
forming, on the Glenarm ihores, aline of coaft the moft fantatlically beautiful that can
be imagined.

If this tedious expedition has not entirely worn out your patience, let us now take a
view of the coaft of Raghcry itfelf, from the lofty fummit of Fairhead, which overlooks
it. Wcftward, we fee its white clifl's rifmg abruptly from the ocean, correfponding
accurately in materials and elevation with thofe of the oppofite Ihorc, and like them
crowned with a venerable load of the Tame vitrifiable rock. Eafl\/ard, we behold it dip
to the level of the fea, and foon give place to many beautiful arrangements of bafalt
pillars, which form the caftern end of the ifland, and lie oppofite to the bafaltes of Fair-
head, afibrding in every part a rcafonabic prefumption that the two coafts were formerly
connected, and that each was created and deranged by the fame caules extenfivcly ope-
rating over both.

But it is not in thefe larger features alone that the fimilitudc may be traced } the
more minute and accidental circumftances fcrve equally wellto afcertain it.

Thus an heterogeneous mafs of freeftone, coals, iron ore, kc. which forms the caft
fide of BallycaftL' bay, and appears c^U'te different from the common fofTds of the coun-

H try.

try,

NORTHERN (. \ST OP tl

COUNTV or ANTftt«l. 879

Righ«rN «Hh c!r' mftaacc*

111.

aft has ui
ipt pri)i
1 1 w a\

rgone confiderablcr

oiitories, which now

have been rcnclered

fry, may be traced alfo dirc6\ly oppofite, riiniiin|.; •
which alinoft dcmonltrably alcertain it to be the fam<

What I would infer from hence is, that this whole
changes in the courfc of fuccefTive ai;es ; that thol
run wildly into the ocean, in proud defiance of its boiil
broken and irregular by fome violent convulfion of nature ; and that the ifland of Rag.
hery, (landing as it were in the midil between this and the Scottifh coaft, may be the
furviving fragment of a large trad of country which at fome period of time has beea
buried in the deep.

But I fhall wave this tedious fubjcft for the prefent, and endeavour to compenfate
for the drynefs of this letter by fome account of the Itate and fingularities of this little
ifland.

In the mean time, I mufl entreat you will be fo candid as to give me timely notice
whenever my letters become dull and unentertaining — I (hall otherwife lofe my labour
to very bad purpofe, as the chief objeft of them is to amufe you.

I am, dear Sir, with the greatefl: refpeft, your afFedionate, &c.

LETTER II.

DEAR SIR,

Portnijh^ July 27.

THE remarkable liazinefs which has prevailed in our atmofphere, during the whole
of this fummer, both by fea and land, has been very unfavourable to views along the
coall, and even in the (hort trip I made to Raghery, gave me reafon to be apprehenfive
of mi (Ting our courfe, as the rapidity of the tide foon carries a veffel clear of the ifland,
Howevt r, with the afli fiance of a gleam from the meridian fun, we got fufely acrofs the
cliannel in the fpacc of two or three hours.

Raghery is near five miles in length, and about three quarters of a mile in breadth ;
toward the middle it is bent in an ant^le oppofite to BallycalUe, and forms a tolerable
bay, alfoiulug good anchorage, in deep water with a (lift clay bottom ; but a weilerly
wind raifes fuch a heavy fwcll all along this coad, that few veflels can ride out a gale
from that quarter.

Its tides arc very remarkable. Here it is that the great body of water which
flows from the ocean during the flood tide, to fupply the north part of the Iri(h channel,
is fir. I confined and broken in its courfe ; and a large portion of it is returned near the
welt end of the ifland, in a counter tide, which fupplies all the loughs and bays for the
fpacc of thirty miles, running toward the wefl, along the counties of Antrim, Derry,
and Donegal! ; while in the mean time the true tide of flood runs toward the eaft, at
the dillance of a few miles from the coaft, parallel to the former.

From liich eddies as this, many fingular irregularities arife, and in feveral places the
tide from the weftward (or the flood tide, as they denominate it) appears to flow nine
hours, V. hile the ebb continues only three.

Seamen, who are aecuftomed to navigate along this coaft, know well how to ufe thefe
difToreiit ftrcatns to good purpofe. For example: a fhip leaving Dublin with the flood
tide (which comes into the Irifti channel from the fouthward) may with a leading wind
reach the county of Down ; there the veflelwill fall in with the northern tide of ebb,
jull then beginning to return to the ocean. With the afllilance of this current, and thsj
fame leadin-; bivezc, the fliip may fetch the ifle of Raghery ; where a judicious pilot,
jnftcad of oppofing the returning tide of flood, may drop into a northern eddy, which

will

III

I- •:
f

I ! ill

8do

ItAMtLTOS's LITTERS ON THE BASyVLTES OK THH

>vill c:irrv him as far as Lo»c:h Swilly ; whore the tru^; tije of ebb will again receive
hiiu, ,\Mil biMr liis (hip out oF the \vclU'rn\)ccan.

'i h'ls l;y prudent manaf^onunt may he enjoy the advantage oF lour diliorcnt fucc^•fllv^•
tides', all iavourahle to his voyage.

'I'he well era winds (wiiiili prevail here during far the greater part of the year)r\vecping

w ith an uninterrupted hlall over the Atlantic Ocean, roll a nuill lorniidable wave alonj;

this Loail, qf which I had fume experience in croiling to the iiland. The day w;.8 uii-
I . /I Ml ..,.: .. I »i, ..f ...:...! »,» »..m.. .K ,...i .... _ i.. • ; • ■ u

courle of a few

•louts I 'i'he moment that the tbli began to return to the oe'oan, ruihing in oppniiiio!!
J this weilern l\v> II, all was coufufion and tumult, i'lie long wave whicii had jull K-
/ore nulled foi-Aard in ("ili'ut inajelly, was now fretted ami broken into a tcmpelluous
lea, which the lloutell boats dare not encounter, and even the bed fliips wiih to avoid.

This alternate feene f)f peace and war takes place twice every day, and it is by attcntioii
to this cireumliancL' that the paifage is made with tolerable loeurity.

The little Ikifl" in which I navigated was built of very flii^ht matirials, and did not
fecm to me ucll calcid.ited to buffet thefe (lormy leas. I obilrved that wo had received
a good deal of water into it ; and on exprelling my unealiiiefs that there was no
vifible means of throwing it out, one of the men inllantly took oft' his brogue, with wfiich
lie loon cleared the vefl'el of water, and put it on his foot again without fecming to fed
the flighted inconvenience from the wetncfs of it ; leaving mc quite at cale on the fub-
je(^ of pumping the vefl'el.

Raghery contains about twelve hundred inhabitants, and is rather over poopKd, as
there is no conlidorable manufadurc which might give employment to any fupeiflirnis
hands *.

The cultivated land is kindly enough, and produces excellent barley. In a plentiful
year fix hunder--d pounds worth of this grain has been exported from ir. The craigy
padurage fattens a fmall, but d'.licious breed of iheep. I'lvmi its inholpitable rocks fup-
ply t'> the hand "I iiuludry a rich lource of wealth, in the fea-wecd it aflbrds for the
manufadurc fi kelp, which, under an indulgent landlord, often goes near to pay the
whole rent of the ifland f.

• Trocr. a ccnfiw fmce litid by llie prirft ef tl'c idand, in <iii!rr to l.iy a ta\ of on? flilllinj; on each nnfi i\
above the .nijc ni I'lxttcn ycat^.fur tlic pirpifc of iiii-tiiij; a itidf -huufo it upttiis lliai ilic miiubcTH amoiii.t
ti) eKvtii hiindrid ; I'atf arc oiic luiiidttd and t'lrty f.imilics, wliicli a!m<i(i avt inijo at ll.t rate of tiriit
pafuiu to r.icl. ffl'nity. The cinfiis has prodiicid a (jreat dtal of imculiiiefs in the ifl.iiid, from an o-niuon
that otic inrfiiii will die dminj; the year in caili family fo niii;il)ircd

f Th!< yiar an hundtid t< us of 1 tip have been exported from K'if;'i<i7» which w3» hoiiglit hv the llnrn
Meiilit-rs ol the iii.r'lr ot Ireland, at 5I 5s per ton, the whole ainoniitinjr to more than i 2 ;1 The annual

n'n* of tht in -nd is but ^tol. 1 his entire maiuifatlure is eariiid on by wo'nen an I il.iJHrtMi, while the
mm arc employrd in moic ba/iidons fcrv'tes. At low water the ffa-.vt-rd is cnt (rorn (he rntts, and
fpre.id out bifore the fiin to ilry j at night it is tru->de up in little ii.iieil., wliicli r.ie opened md Ihike'n cut
a^ain whciievcr tire weatlier p.rinlls ; this procjffs is eontiimed till ilic wtcd bieoiiu s dry eiinni'li t(> he

I........ A li.il.. I A ' Iw n mnili- III tlir irt'fiiiii.l . niwl n lif tit' tfmniirnrv L I'fn ..i-^A^.'.) ..( I. . f.. il . . * ■ i ■ ^

nirn

the weed is canlioiilly an 1 jrvadnal'y burned. Ourin^r ihi, pioitfs the veir< 'able f.d , a;id evtry thittir not
capable of being ealily dilli|»attd bv tlic fire, melts, and eoaUfeen in one mafs at t. e bottom of ihe l.iln. [i,
till. Ihte il is exported, no meaiiH having been yet tilablithcd here, ot in any put id' tiie a, joining tcail, to
purify liic alkaline fall from the vaiious mixtures of marine fah, &c. with wloVh il aboundj.

The

NORTHERN COA^T Ot THK COONTV 01' ANTRIM.

88.1

Thr horri'S, Rs wull as the fhcnp, ur.- fmall in kind, but extremely IVrvlccable, and
fure footed beyond conception. Of thih 1 hud a ftiong pronf in it little expedition
xvliich I made through the ifland with Mr. (rage, the hofpitable propri(>tor of it. Yon
tniifl know it was but the other day the pw^ple of Ka^hcry rccoUedkHJ that a road nii^dit
be fome convenience to them, io that in our excurfion we were obliged to follow thr
old cuflom of riding over precipices, wliich would not appear contemptible, even to ;.
man that enjoyed the full ufe of his legs.

It feems my horfel though fifteen or lixteen years old, had never before felt a bridle
in his month, and after many attempts to fluike it olY, in a very critical fituation, on
the top of a very rugged precipice, he refufed to proceed one Itcp turther, while this
incumbrance impeded him. Having no other refourcc I was oblij^ed to comply, and
was carried over an exceeding dangerous heap of rocks, with a degree of caution which
amazed me in the midfl of my terrors.

It is fomewhat fmgular that this illand (hould not contain any native quadruped, except
thofc univerfal travellers the rats *, and the little Ihrew moufe which is fometimes
lound. But the various tribes of foxes, hares, rabbits, badgers, &c. for which it might
jiflbrd ry.cellent fheltcr, and which abound on the oppofite (horc, are here unknown.
A few brace of hares uideed were lately introduced by the i)roprictor, which bid fair
to produce a large increafe.

A good many years ago. Lord Antrim gave orders to his huntfman to tranfport a
couple of foxes into the ifland, for the purpofe of propagating that precious breed of
animals, liut the inhabitants aflembled in conllernation, and having fubfcribed each a
liank of yarn, 'prevailed on the huntfman to difobey orders. However he was fliarp
tnough to take the hint, and for fome years paid his annual vifit to Raghery, for the
purpofe of raifing a regular tribute, to fave the poor iilanders from thofe defolaiing
invaders.

The inhabitants arc a fimple, laborious and honeft race of people, and poflefs &
degree of affection for their ifland which may very much furprtfe a Itranger. In con-
verfation they always talk of Ireland as a foreign kingdom, and really have fcarcely any
intercourfe with it except in the way of their little trade. A common and heavy curfe
iimong them is — " May Ireland be your hinder end."

From this awor patna arifes their greit population, notwithftanding the perils which
attend their turbulent coaft, as they never entertain a thought of trying to better their for-
tune, by fettling in any of the neighbouring towns of Antrim.

I'he tedious procefles of civil law are little known in Raghery ; and Indeed the af-
feftion which they bear to their landlord, whom they always ipeak of by tht lindearing
name of mailer, together with their own fimplicity of manners, renders the interference
of the civil magilhato very unncceflary. The feiziire of a row or a horfe, for a few
days, to bring tlie d( faultcr to a fcnfe of duty ; or a copious draught of falt-water from
the furrounding ocean in criminal cafes, forms the greater part of the fanclions and
puniflimcnts of the ifland. If the offender be wicked beyond hope, banifhment to Ire-
land is the dernier refort, and foon frets the community from this peililential member.

In a fequeflered ifland like this, one would expcdl to find bigoted fuperftition flourilh
fuccefsfully under the aufpiccs of the Romi.'h church ; but th.^ fimplicity of theiflanders
docs not foiter any uncharitable tenets, and, contrary to one's expettation, they arc

• I haJ fome hope that the tiative black rat of thfs kingdom, might have ftcured a retreat in thin k-
mu'Rcred ilLiiiJ, but in vain, tlicir pmveifiil iioiiliern enemies, with the cruelty of the old Danes, but with
mote fucctta, have utterly exterminated the natives, and the rat of Norway has completely extended hit
wadeful dominion ovci Ragheiy.

VOL. III. 5 U lidtlltV

' 1'

'kl

'li

'Ml

I.I

ii'

ill

SS2

HAMILTON S LETTERS ON THE BASALTES OF THE

neither grofsly fuperftitious, nor rank bigots, but have been known to hold the unchrif-
tian dodrincs of their late Spanilh pricJl in great contempt ; nay, in cafes of neceifity
they do not fcruple to apply for afliftance to the Prote'lant tninifter. Of their good will
to the eflabliflied church, they give an annual proof which one rai'cly finds iu any other
part of Ireland': the minilter's tythe amounts to about lool. per annum, and when the
iflanders have got in their own harvelt, they give the parfon a day with tlicir horfcs and
cars, and bring the entire tythe home to his farm yard.

The chief defideratum of the illandcrs is a phyiician, the want of whom they feem to
eonfuleras their greatell misfortune, though their maiter appears to be of averydifie-
r nt fentiment ; and indeed the remarkable population of Raghery makes much in fa-
vour of his opinion. »

Small as this !pot is, one can neverthe'cfs trace two dii?ercnt «harafters among its inha-
bitants. The Kenranjer, or wcllern end, is craggy and mountainous, the lan^^ in the
vallies Is rich and well cultivated, but the coalt delUtute of harbours. A fingle native
is here known to fix his rope to a flake driven into the fummit of a precipice, and from
thence, alone, and unallilled, to fwing down the face of a rock in quell of the neRs
of fea fowl. From hence activity, bodily ftrength, and felf-dependencc, are eminent
among the Kenranier men. AVant of intercourfe with Itrangcrs has prcferved many pe-
culiarities, and their native Irifli leems to be the univerful language.

The Ufhe: end, on the contrary, is barren in its foil, but more open and well fup-
plied with little harbours ; hence its inhabitants arc become fifliermen, are accuflomed
to make fhort voyages, and to barter. Intercourle with flraugers has rubbed off many
of their peculiarities, and the Lnglilh language is well underllood and generally fpokeu
among them.

This didinclion I fear may feem fooliflily fpcculative, confidorlng the diminutive ob-
je£l of it, and yet I allure you it is a matter of fac^ ; and the inhabitants themfelves
are fo well aware of it, that in perilous fituations diiVerent oiEccs and flations are ap-
pointed to each, according as he is an Ulhet or Kenramcr man.

Raghery has formerly been as it were a flepping-flonc between the Irifh and Scottifli
coalls, vvhieii the natives of each country alternately ufed in their various expeditions,
and for which they frequently fought.

A number of fmall tumuli were lately opened in a little plain about the middle of
the ifland, probably the monuments of lb many heroes who in former ages had fallen
honourably in this very field of battle. The chief himfelf lay in a {lone colfin, and
befide him an earthen vefl'el flood, which, by the refiduum ilill viftble, fecmed for-
merly to have contained an otfering of blood, or fome perilhable animal fubftance. Within
the tumuli lay a confidi. rable number of human bones, the remains of more ignoble
men who might have fallen by the like fate of war.

Brazen fwords, and fpear heads of the liimc metal, found in this plain, bear flrong
evidence ef the bloody fcenes which have been tranfacled here in remote ages. A
large filver fibula was found in one of the fuiuuli, which is depofited in the mufcuni
of Trinity college, Dublin } the workmanfliip is good, and argues confiderable fkill in
the artilt.

The traditions of the country do not go bcvond the obfcure period of Scottifh and
Danifl) incurfions, which have alternately ravaged and depopulated the illand. The
memory of a cruel maffacre, perpetrated by a Scottifli elan ; 1 think the Campbells)
rem.iins fo ftrongly imprefl'ed on the minds of the prcfent ioliabitants, that no perfoa
of that name is allowed to fettle in the ifland»

During

KORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM. SSl^'

During the dillurbances lH Scotland, which fucceedcd tlie appointment of Baliol to
the crown ot" that kingdom, Robert Bruce was driven out and obliged to take llielter,
with a friend of" his, in the ille of" Raghery *. However his enemies purfucJ Jiiru even
to this remote fpot and forced him to embark in a little fkiil", and leek refuge on the
ocean. The remains of a fortrefs are yet vifible on the nordiern angle of the iliand,
celebrated tor the defence which this hero made in it, and Hill known by the name of
Robert Bruce's caftle. The antiquity of this building is therefore not nmch lefs than
five hundred years; it may indeed be confiderably older, as the lime which Bruce Ipent
in Raghery was f'carcely fuHIcient for the purpofe of eroding it.

One thing concerning this caltie is worth remarking, that the lime of which it is built,
has been burned with lea coal, the cinders of which are Hill vifible in it, and bear lb
ftrong a rcfemblance to the cinder of the BallycalUecoal, as makes it extremely probable
that our information concerning the coUeries of that place were far from being an ori-
ginal difcovery. Indeed there is reafon to believe that they were both well known, and
extenfively wrought at a period of time when few people imagine the civilization or
finances of this kingdom were equal to fo expenfivc an undertaking f.

But this is a curious fubjeft, and I fliall take fome other opportunity of giving you
more information when you may not be fatigued with fo large, and 1 fear i'o tedious a
letter.

. , LETTER III.

DEAR SIR, Portrujh, July ^o,

IN my return from Raghery, I fpent a few days at Ballycaflle, a town pretty con-
fiderable in this part of the world, which has been almoll entirely the creation of one
man, a Mr. Boyd, who died fome years ago.

According to the Perfian fyftem of moral duties J, it is likely Ireland cannot boall of
an individual who has more fully difcharged his trult than old Mr. Boyd ; — not polfelFed
of any confidcrable fortune, not fupported by powerful natural connexions, nor en-
dowed with any very fupcrior talents, this man opened public roads, formed a harbour,
built a town, cllablifhed manufafturcs, and lived to fee a wild and lawlefs country be-
come populous, cultivated, and civilized. In the mod literal fenfe his foul fecms to have
animated this little colony ; in him it enjoyed life and ftrength, and with him all vigour
and animation perifhed. By an ill-judged diftribution of his fortune, and various un-
toward and imlorcfeen accidents, the manfattures of glal's were negletted, the breweries
and tanneries were mifmanaged, the harbour became choaked with land, and even the
rollieries (from particular circumflances) arc not wrought with fuch fpirit as the preleut

* " Rex ipfe cum uno plenimqiie comite, Jntcrim foliis, per loca inaxlnn; iiici)lta percirabat, ct cum ne
lie quifltm I'll)! tutus a civiiim pcrliilia et liolliuin criidtlitatc videvetur, ii\ A'.liudas, ad vctticni (|iicii<].im
amiciim iraiilinilit." // Is prub^blc this iimii ihe tliitf v/.-tti Bruce came to Ra^/jny . Ikiciianau's IIill. .Scot.

rorduii, liarbuur, i"!ci;. fpccially mention his rcfiJciiix- in Ilacliliii. J. P.

f It may perhaps be iftiagiiicd that the coals liavc Ikcu brought from Brital;i ; hut a little redcftion will
iliew that to be extremely improbable, cveu fo late as the time of Robert Buice. It \\\h but jiiil then ih.\t
tlie Knglilh themfclvi 5 liad difcovered the ufe of fea-coal as a fuel j and we fuidin the time of Eilnard 1. that,
atlcr bring tiiid in Loudon, they were inimidlately prohibited ou a halty opinion, tliJt the vapour was
noxious to tlie health of ilic inhabitants. It is not therefore to be readily believed, tliat at thiscarly period
England coiih! have had any fxtenfive vxport trade in coals : or, if fo, it mud have been to fome populou*
and civilized country, to fome lafe hnrbuur, to a yreat and commcrcij town ; but, at the time wc {peak; of,
jlie liiitilli chartB do not lay dowu a fiiiglc vilhige in all this line of coalh

1 •» Fairr wi tnfaiit, ct bbgniei vn dump." Vide MoiUcfquieu'b Perfu^u Lcltcri,

5 IT 2 proprietoy

1 '!

;■

Hamilton's letters on thb sasaltes of the

proprietor would wifh to exert. In fhort, this gentleman conftruftcd a mofl excelltnt
machine, but unfortunately left it without any permanent principle of motion.

The eaftern fide of Ballycadle terminates in the bold promontory of Fairhead. Be-
tween this and the town lie the collieries, in an abrupt bank which overhangs the fea.
ships, however, cannot derive much advantage from this circumftance, as the unfhel-
tered fituation of the place, and the prevailing wcftern winds, make a delay on the coalk
extremely dangerous, and renders it difficult to embark the coals.

The different follils which generally lie above the coal, are till, or flate-coal, iroa ore,
and freeftone*.

It unfortunately happens that thefe beds (like moft of the foflils of this kingdom
which are formed in layers) dip, or underlie, to the fouthward ; hence it follows, that
when an horizontal adit, or level, has been pufhed forward tcthe bed of coal) from the
Itcep bank which faces toward the north, the men, in following the mine, are obliged
to work downward, and have no means of carrying off the water ; whereas if the dip
of the beds were in the contrary diredlion, (that is, toward the north,) the work muft be
all up hill, by which the loaded waggons would have an eafy defcent outward, and. all
the water muft conftantly flow off toward the fea.

In my laft letter I mentioned fome reafons which might induce one to think that thefe
collieries were wrought at a very remote period of time ; but an accidental dilcoverjf
has lately put that matter beyond doubt, and has laid open a very curious circumftance
in the ancient hillory of this country.

About twelve years ago the workmen, in puftiing forward a new adit toward the
coal, unexpeftedly broke through the rock t into a cavern. Ttie hole which they
opened was not large, and two young lads were made to creep, in with candles, to ex-
plore this new region. They accordingly went forward, and entered an extenfive laby-
rinth branching off into numerous apartments, in the mazes and windings of which,
they were at laft completely loft. After various vain attempts to return, their lights were
extinguiftied, and they fat down together in utter defpair of an efcape from this dreary
dungeon. In the mean time, the people without in the drift were alarmed for their
fafety ; frefh hands were employed, a paffage was at lafi made for the workmen, and
the two unfortunate adventurers extricated after a whole night's imprifonment.

On examining this fubterranean wonder, it was found to be a complete gallery which
had been driven forward many hundred yards to the bed of coal ; — that it branched off
into various chambers where the miners had carried on their different works ; — that
pillars were kit at proper intervals, to fupport the roof; in fhort, it was found to be
an extenfjve mine, wrought by a fet of people, at leaft as expert in the bufinefs as the
prefent generation. Some remains of the tools, and even the bafliets ufed in the works,,
were difcovercd, but in fuch a ftate, that on being touched they immediately fell to
powder.

• i wa» very much pleafed with the difcovcry of a natural proccfs among thefe foflils, not very unlikcour
artificiul one for making crylUb cf artificial vitriol. You know that martial or grern vitriol is a fait formed
from the calx of iron united to the vitriolic acid, and that the component parti> of fiilphur are phlogillon,
or the principle of inflammability, united to the vitriolic acid. It fo happens tluit a thin liiytr of iron ore
lies immediauly uvcr a bed of coal ; in the places whti-e this isexpofed to the air and v/eafher, the ful

of the coal becomes dicompofed, lufing its

.... ,.. — -.- ..-„^„.»- .„ .... _.. - .ulphur

_ , , „ its phlogi lion, while its other principle, namtly the vitriolic acid,

uniting with the calx of the iron, formt cryitals of green vitriol, which lie in confidcnible quantity between
the two layers.

f Tlic adit is carried along the fide of a courfe of hard rock, which cuts all the layers ' f coal, running
north and fouth in a direction perpendicular to the horizon. It is called here ik Qaur or March, and I ap-
prehend it the lame us what the Comifli miners call a Crofs Golfan.

The

NORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM. 885

The aiUiqulty of this work is pretty evident from hence, that there does not remain
the moft remote tradition of it in the country ; but it is ilill more ftrcngly dc;ni(mftrable
from a natural procefs which has taken place fince its formation, for lfala<5^ite pillars
had been generated, reaching from the roof of the pit to the floor; and the fieds and
fupports were found covered with fparry incruftations, which the prcfent workmen do
not obferve to be depofitcd in any definite portion of time.

The people of this place attribute thefe works to the Danes ; but a very flight con-
fideraiion of the matter muft fatisfy any one that this opinion is ill founded. The
Dan( s were never peaceable pofl'eflbrs of Ireland, but always engaged in bloody wars
with the natives, in which they were alternately vigors and vaiiquiflied. Like the eaf-
tein defccndants of Khmaol, they flood at perpetual bay with all the world, their hand
againft every man, and every man's hand againft them.

It is not furely to the tumultuary and barbarous armies of the ninth and tenth cen-
turies, whofe hai-veft of wealth and power could only be expected from the rapid and
hazardous ravages of war, that we are to attribute the flow and toilfome operations of
peace which are carried on only where population, civilization, and trade flourifli in an
extreme degree.

While Ireland lay yet proflrate and gafping under the fatal wounds received in a
bloody ftruggle of two hundred years, againlt thofe northern invaders, the En^^lifli,
under Henry II. made their fuccefsful inroad, and eafiiy eftablifhed themfelves in a
feeble and diftrafted country ; from which time, till the beginning of the prefent cen-
tury, this ifland prefents nothing to our view but a wafteful Icene of mifery and defola-
tion. That thefe colleries could have been wrought during this period feems extremely
improbable. We are all along execrated by the Englifh writers as a nation of barba-
rians, and our country curfed as a wildernefs of forefts and bogs. It is not then to be
fuppofed that a favage people fliould ranfack the bowels of the earth for coal, while
their woods and bogs afforded fuch abundant fuel to their hand.

Upon the whole, during the dreary interval of near a thoufand years, from the
eighth to the eighteenth century, it is in vain to look for the laboured works of induf-
try and peace, in a kingdom where war was the only trade, and where all property
turned on the edge of the fword *.

i > I i

; m

- ft

; '

LETTER IV.
DEAR SIR, Porlrujh, Angttji 3.

IN riding from Ballycaftle to Portrufli, I went a (hort way oflf the beaten road, to
fee a whimfical little fifliing rock, connected to the main land by a very extraordinary
flying bridge ; it is called Carrick-a-rede, (or the rock in the road,) and lies fomtwhat
eaflward from Ballintoy, on a moft romantic fhore. I was quite delighted with the
pidlurefque appearance of this little fanciftil fifhery, of which I muft beg leave to give
you a fhort account ; however, as I am a great advocate in favour of Mr. Locke's fyflem
of a dictionary of piftures, in preference to a didtionary of tedious defcriptions, I fhall
inclofe you a drawing of Carrick-a-rede, from a flietch which my draftlman made on
the fpot.

At a particular feafon of the year the falmon fifli come along the coaft in quefl of the
different rivers in which they annually caft their fpawn. In this expedition the filh ge-

Some extraneous remarks on Irifltantitjuities areomittcdr

nerally

1
■ I

D „j

886

Hamilton's letters oh the basaltes of the

ncraliy fwim pretty clofe to the fliore, that they may not mifs their port ; and the fiflier-
inen, who arc well iiware of this coalUng voyage of the fahnon, take care to projeft their
nets at fucli places as may be mofl: convenient for intercepting them in their courfe.

It fo happens that Carrick-a-rede is the only place on this abrupt coall which is fuited
for the purpolc. Here then, or no where, mult be the filhery ; but how to get at the
rock is the qiiofiion. A chafm full fixty feet in breadth, and of a depth frightful to
look af, feparates it from the adjacent land, in the bottom of which the fea breiiks with
an uninterrupted roar over the rotks ; the ifland itfelf is inacceflible on every fide ex-
cept one fpot, where under the Ihclter of art impending rock, a luxuriant herbage
flouriflies j but the wildnefs of the coalt, and the turbulence of the fea, make it very
diftlcult to land here. (.

In this pcrpltxity there is really no rcfource, except in attcrApting to throw a bridge
of ropes IVoin the main hnd to the ifland, which accordingly the fifhermen every year ac-
coinplifli • in a very fingular manner : two ftrong cables are extended acrofs the gulph
by art expert climber, and faftened firmly into iron rings mortifed into the rock on both
fides ; between thefe ropes a number of boards, about a foot in breadth, are iaid in
fucceilion, fupported at intervals by crofs cords ; and thus the pathway is formed,
vhlch, though broad enough fo bear a man's foot with tolerable convenience, does by
no means hide from view the pointed rocks, and raging fea beneath, which in this fitua-
tion exhibit the fatal effcdls of a fall, in very ftrong colouring : while the fwingings and •
Aindulations of the bridge itfelf, imd of the hand rope, which no degree of tenfion can
prevent in fo gre?t a length, fuggeft no very comfortable feelings to perfons of weak
fiervcs. Upon the whole, it is a beautiful bridge in the fcenery of a landfcape, but a
frightful one in real life.

The mode of filhing on this coaft is different from any 1 have feen, perhaps it may
•be new to you :

The net is projected diredly outward from the fliore, with a flight bend, forming a
bofom in tba-t direQion in which the falmon conie : from the remote extremity a rope
is brought obliquely to another part of the fhore, by which the net may befwept round
at pleafure, and drawn to the land ; a heap of fmall ftones is then prepared for each
perfon : all things being ready, fooh as the watchman perceives the fifh advancing to the
net, he gives the watch-word t ' immediately fome of the fifhermen feize the obliqde
rope, by which the net is bent round to inclofe the falmon, while the reft 'keep up an
inceilant cannonade with their ammunition of flones, to prevent the retreat of the fifh
till the net has been completely pulled round them j after which they all join forces, .
and drag the net and fifh quietly to the rocks.

The falmon fiflierics on the fea-coafl, and in the rivers of the north of Ireland, have
fometimes been very produftivc, affording a valuable cargo for the Italian markets
xluring the titne of Lent : the abundance of fifh may in fome meafure be inferred from
hence, that Iburteen hundred fahnon (as I am informed) have been taken in the river
Dann at once hauling the net ; and what is almoft equally remarkable, near one thou*
fand were caught at the fucceeding haul. At .prefent, however, the fifhcries are but
fcanty, and it is the prevailing opinion, that too great fuccefs of the river fifheries has
nudone them, by deftroying the mother falmon, which fhould be allowed free pafiage
through the rivers to calt their fpawn. ^ . , ^, ,

• This bridge ia only ilirown acrofs during the time of the falraon filhery, which is carried ou in tliefum-
mrr niuiiths.

f At Portrufli the word is /arryiw^. ; _

Now

net.

NORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM. iiSy

Now that I am got upon the fubjccl of fifhing, let mc tell you of nn aimifing inftance
of fagaclty which I had an opportunity of feeing a fliort time ago, in a water-dog of this
country, who had become a moft excellent fiflicr :

in riding from Portrulh to the Giant's Caufeway with fome company, we had occa-
fion to ford the river Bufli, near the fea ; and as the fifhermen were going to haul their
net, we Hopped to fee their fuccefs : As foon as the dog perceived the men to move,
he inftantly ran down the river of his own accord, and took pod in the middle of it, on
fome (hallows where he could occafionly run or fwim, and in this pofition he placed him-
felf, with all the eagernefs and attention fo ftrongly obfervable in a pointer dog, wha
Jets his game : — We were for fome time at a lofs to apprehend his fcheme, but the event!
fatisficd us, and amply juftificd the prudence of the animal ; for the fifh, when they
feel the net, always endeavour to make dire£tly out to fea. Accordingly one of the
falmon, efcaping from the net, ruflied dowii the rtream with great velocity, toward the
ford, where the dog ftood to receive him at an advantage. A very diverting chafe now
commenced, in which, from the fhallownefs of the water, we could difcern the whole
track of the fifh, with all its rapid turnings and windings. After a fmart purfuit the
dog found himfelf left confiderably behind, in confequence of the water deepening, by
which he had been reduced to the neccflltyof fwimming. But iuQead of following
this defperate game any longer, he readily gave it over, and ran with all his fpeed
direftly down the river, till he was fure of being again fea- ward of the falmon, where he
took poft as before in his pointer's attitude. Here the fifli a fecond time met hhn, and
a frelli purfuit enfued, in which, after various attempts the falmon at laft made its way
out to the fea, notwithftanding all the ingenious and vigorous exertions of its purfuer.

Though the dog did not fucceed at this time, yet 1 was informed that it was no un-
ufual thing for him to run down his game ; and the fifhermen afTured me that he was
of very great advantage to them, by turning the falmon toward the net ; in which poljit
of view his efforts in U me meafure correfponded with the cannonade of ibnes which I
mentioned at Carrick-a-rede.

During the whole of the chafe this fagacious animal feenied plainly to have two ob-
je£ts in view ; one to feize his game, if poflible, and the other, to drive it toward the
net when the former failed ; each of which he managed with a degree of addrefs and
ingenuity cxtrftnely intereOing and amazing.

It is fomewh • unaccountable that mankind fhould look with fo much horror and dif-
gufl on any rem e fimihtude, which fome of the brute creation bear to the human per-
fon and features, nd yet dwell with pleafure on much nearer approaches toward their
prerogative facult) of reafon. At leaft thus much I am certain of, that we faw the
exertions of this creature with infinite delight, and our regard for himfeemcd to increafe
in proportion as our idea of his excellence increafed. Perhaps it may be, that a con-
cioufnefs of decided fuperiority in the latter cafe, makes us obferve the ingenuity of
lower animals, without the allay of any uneafinels from an apprehenfion of rivalfhip.

LETTER V.
DEAR r.lR, Pori,rif/I:, yiugajl 6.

you would hardly believe how little remains of Iri/h hiftory, language, or culloms*
are to be traced in this paFt of the country : the revolutions which it has undergone, in
confci|Uence of forfeitures to the Englifli, and. the encroachments- of the Scot«, have
overturned every remnant of its original ftate*

3 During

808

Hamilton's letters on the basaltes of thi;

During the time that the Englifli were endeavouring to esteud their palt, in every
direftion from the metropolis of the kingdom, over a defperate but dif'inited enemy,
the Scotti(h clan of MacDonalds, who by an internvarriage had got footing in Ireland,
began their ravages on the northern coaft of Antrim ; and by the powerful fupport
which they received from Cantire, and the wollern ifles of Scotland, eftabliflied their
dominion over a tra£l of country nearly forty miles in length.

As the people of thofe days generally followed the fortune of their chief, the greater
part of the native Irifh who furvived thefc bloody fcenes, tranfplaiited themfelves elfe-
where, while the Scots remained peaceable pofToilbrs of the field ; hence the old tradi-
tions and cuftoms of the country were entirely lo(t ; and the few who fpeak the Celtic
language at all ufe a kind of mixed diiileft, called here Scotch IriJI)., which is but im-
perfeftly underftood by the natives of either country.

The prefent poiTcffors are in general an indullrious thrifty race of people. They
have a great deal of fubflaniial civility, without much courtefy to relieve it, and fet it off
to the bell advantage. 'Ihe bold ideas of rights and privileges, which feem infeparable
from their Prclbyterian church, renders them apt to be ungracious and litigious in their
dealings. On the whole, the middling and lower ranks or people in this quarter of the
kingdom, are a valuable part of the community : but one muft eftimate their worth as
a miner does his ore, rather by its weight than its (plendor.

There are three or four old callles along the coalt, fltuated in places extremely diffi-
cult of accefs, but their early hiftories are for the greater part loft. The moft remark-
able of thefe is the caftle of Dunluce, which is at prefent in the polTeflion of the Antrim
family. It is fituated in a fmgular manner on an ifolated abrupt rock, which projects
into the fea, and feems as it were fplit off from the terra firma. Over the intermediate
chafm lies the only approach to the caftle, along a narrow wall, which has been built
fomewhat like a bridge, from the rock to the adjoining land; and this circumftance
muft have rendered it almoft impregnable before the invention of artillery. It appears,
however, that there was originally another narrow wall, which ran acrofs the chafm,
parallel tb the former, and that by laying boards over thefe, an eafy paffage might oc-
cafionally be made for the benefit of the garrifon.

The walls of this caftle are built of columnar bafaltes, many joints of which are
placed in fuch a manner as to fliew their polygon fedions ; and in one of the windows
of the north fide, the architect has contrived to iplay off the wall neatly enough, by
making ufe of the joints of a pillar whofe angle was fufficiently obtufe to f"it his purpofe.

The original lord of this caftle and its territories, was an Irifh chief, called M'Quillan,
of whom little is known, except that, like moft of his countrymen, he was hofpitablc,
brave, and improvident ; unwarily allowing the Scots to grow in ftrength, until they
contrived to beat him out of all his poffeflions.

In the courfe of my expeditions through this country, I met with an old manufcript
account of the fettlement of the Scotch here, of which 1 ftiall give you a fliort extratt.
It will ferve in a good meafure to (hew the barbarous ftate of the inhabitants in the fix-
teenth centurjs and the manner in which property was fo readily transferred from one
mafter to anotlier.

The manufcript is in the hands of the MacDonalds, and therefore moft likely fpeaks
rather in their favour.

" About the year 1580, Coll. MacDonald came with a parcel of men from Can-
tire to Ireland, to affifl Tyrconnel againft great O'Neal, with whom he was ihen at
war.

S « Is

NORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM.

889

*' In pafllng through the Root * of the county of Antrim, he was civilly received
ai^ hofpitably entertained by Mac Quillan, who was then ItJrd and mailer of the
Root.

" At that time there was a war between Mac Quillan and the men beyond the river
Bann ; for the cuftom of this people was to rob from every one, and the flrongefl
party carried it, be it right or wrong.

" On the day when Coll. Mac Donald was taking his departure to proceed on his
journey to Tyrconnell, Mac Quillan, who was not equal in war to his favage neigh-
bours, called together his militia, or gallogloghs, to revenge his affronts over the Bann j
and Mac Donald, thinking it uncivil not to offer his fervice that day to Mac Qaillan,
after having been fo kindly treated, fent one of his gentlemen with an offer ot his fer-
vice in the field.

*' Mac Quillan was right well pleafed with the offer, and declared it to be a perpetual
obligation to him and his pofterity. So Mac Quillan and the Highlanders went againft
the enemy, and where there was a cow taken from Mac Quillan's people before, there
were two reftored back : after which Mac Quillan and Coll. Mac Donald returned back
fvith a great prey, and without the lofs of a man.

*' Winter then drawing nigh, Mac Quillan gave Coll. Mac Donald an invitation to
flay with him at his caftle, advifing him to fettle himfelf until the fpring, and quarter
his men up and down the Root. This Coll. Mac Donald gladly accepted ; and in the
mean time feduced Mac Quillan's daughter, and privately married her j on which ground
the Scots afterward founded their clain* to Mac Quillan's territories.1

" The men were quartered two and two through the Root j that is to fay, one of Mac
Quillan's gallogloghs and a Highlander in every tenant's houfe.

" It fo happened that the galloglogh, according to cuftom, befides his ordinary, was
entitled to a meather t of milk as a privilege : this the Highlanders efteemed to be a
great affront ; and at laft one of them afked his landlord, * Why do you not givfe me
milk as you give to the other ?' The galloglogh immediately made anfwer, ' Would
you, a Highland beggar as you are, compare yourfelf to me, or any of Mac Quillan's
gallogloghs ?*

" The poor honeft tenant, (who was heartily tired of them both) faid ' Pray, gentle-
men, I'll open the two doors, and you may go and fight it out in the fair fields, and
he that has the vidory let him take milk and all to himfelf.'

*' The combat ended in the death of the galloglogh ; after which (as my manufcript
fays) the Highlander came in again and dined heartily.

*• Mac Quillan's gallogloghs immediately affembled to demand fatisfadlion ; and in a
council which was held, where the conduft of the Scots was debated, their great and
dangerous power, and the difgrace arifing from the feduftion of Mac Quillan's daugh-
ter, it was agreed that each galloglogh fliould kill his comrade Highlander by night, and
their lord and mafter with them j but Coll. Mac Donald's wife difcovered the plot, and
told it to her hufband. So the Highlanders fled in the night time, and efcaped to the
ifland of Raghery.

" From this beginning, the Mac Donalds and Mac Quillans entered on a war, and
continued to worry each other for half a century, till the Englifh power became fo fu-
peridr in Ireland, that both parlies made an appeal to James I., who had juft then
afcended the throne of England.

* A term by which this north-weft part of the county of Antrim Is al«'ays denominated.
f A vefTel commonly ufed by the old Irifh, formed out of one folid piece of wood, and •loll commonly
•f a triangular ihape.

VOL. III. c X " James

890

Hamilton's letters on the basaltes of the

** James had a predilcftion for his Scotch countryman, the Mac Donald, to whom
he made over by patent four great baronies, including, along with other lanvls, all poor
MacQuillan's ptifleflions. However, to lave fome appearance of judice, he gave to
Mac Quillan a grant of the great barony of Enifhowen, the old territory of O'Dogherty,
and fent to him an account of the whole decifion by Sir John Chichelter.

** Mac Quillan was extremely mortified at his ill fuccefs, and very difconfolate at the
difficulties which attended the tranfporting his poor people over the riv-r Bann, and the
Lough Foyle, which lay between him and his new territory. The crafty Enghfliman,
taking advantage of his fituation, by an ofter of fome lands which lay nearer his old do-
minions, perfuaded him to cede his title to the barony of Enifhowen. And thus the
Chichefters, who afterwards obtained the title of Earls of Donegall, became poffelfed of
this great eftate } and honeft Mac Quillan fettled himfelf in 'one far inferior to Eni-
fliowen.

" One ftory more (fays the manufcript) of Mac Quillan. The eftate he got in ex-
change for the barony of Enifhowen was called Clanreaghurkie *, which was far inade-
quate to fupport the old hofpitality of the Mac Quillans. Bury Oge Mac Quillan fold
riiis land to one of Chichefter's relations, and having got his new-granted cflaie into one
bag, was very generous and hofpitable as long as the bag lafted. And fo (continues
the manufcript) was the worthy Mac Quillan foon extinguilhed."

I fhould not have obtruded the account of the downfall of this Irilh chief, but that
it affords fo good a reafon for the utter obliieration of overy ancient record and monu-
ment in this part of the country ; and will plead my excufe for not adding/omewhat
to our colledion of Irifh antiquities.

LETTER VI.
DEAR SIR, Portrufh, Auguji 13.

A FEW days ago, as I rode acrofs the headland of Bengore, a fudden fhower of rain
falling very heavily, compelled me to take fheltcr in a little cabin, which flands on a wild
fpot in the middle of that promontory, ^on a piece of land called in the Irifh language
Aird, from the loftinefs of its fituation. A well-looking young woman fat by the fire-
fide fpinning at her wheel, with a parcel of children playing round her ; but, notwith-
ftanding her induftrious employment, the houfe bore evident marks of poverty and
didrefs about it.

As the rain flill continued, I had an opportunity of afking feveral qucflions concern-
ing the fortunes of this poor family, the hiftory of which wms fuch a fimple, melan-
choly tale, that I cannot help repeating it to you, though methinks you will accufe me
of having brought it forward very mal a-propos.

The original adventurer who fettled in this folitary fpot was called Adam Morning, a
name which he got from fome accidental circumftance, and is delcribed by the peafants
of the neighbouring hamlet as a clever fellow, and an honeft man. He held his little
farm, which had never before been cultivated, at the fmall rent of five pounds /)fr anminit
hoping foon to make it a valuable tenure by the probable effe£^s of his induftry ; and
on this he built the cottaye which 1 have juft mentioned, fuited to his infant powers, but
fo contrived as to admit of an addition, whenever his fuccefs in improving this barren
foil fhould entitle him to cncreafo his comforts.

It a in anotlier place called Claneaghguiki'e.

*
the fe
and tl

NORTHr.RN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM. 8gt

By hard labour he foon reclaimed fo much of the land as enabled him to fow a mode*
rate quantity of grain ; but when the toils of the year were almoft over, and a plentiful
harvelt promifed to reward his induftry, a violent ftorm, which was feverely felt over the
whole kingdom, blafted his golden hopes, and the entire produce of his farm was only
fixtcen barrels of oats, out of twenty-four which he had fowed.

I'liis was a fevere blow to our enterprifing farmer, but his refolution was not thus
haflily to be vanquifhed ; means were found to pay his rent, a fecond crop was fowed
the enfuing year, and his land again prefented the cheering profpetl of approaching
plenty. Once more an inclement fcafon, bearing heavily on the unfhcltered fituation
of his new fields, mocked his expeclation, and the entire reward of the year's labour
amounted only to a fmall increafc of grain, little exceeding what he had fowed.

Few men in this lowly fphere of life would have borne up agalnft fuch rude and
repeated (hocks of adverl'e fortune ; but the fpirit of our humble adventurer difdained
to yield to misfortunes which were merely cafual, and which no degree of prudence
could have guarded againft. His perfeverance was ftill unlhaken, his health continued
vigorous, and the land yet promifed to repay him, would Providence but fmile on his
endeavours. New ways were therefore devifed to fave his finking. credit; every nerve
was exerted to pay his rent, and try the fortune of another year.

There is a fmall bay in the promontory of Bengore, called Port na Spania *, from
the wreck of one of the celebrated Spanifh armada, which was here darfied to pieces.
It is entirely furrounded by a monftrous precipice between three and four hundred feet
high, and is acceflible only by one narrow approach, which is far the mod frightful of
all the hazardous paths on this whole coaft.

By the tenure of his farm the pofleflbr was entitled to a quarter of this little bay,
amounting to about twenty or thirty fquare yards of wild inhofpitable rock t.

Here Adam and his family, flruggling againft their diftrefles, laboured hard to fup-
ply their wants by cutting the fea-weed from the rocks, and manufaduring it into kelp,
which the linen bleachers of the country bought up at a good price; while in the mean
time the farm was rifing faft, and Ceres began again to fmile propitious.

One morning, as Adam and his wife were defcending down the dangerous path, to
purfue their daily toil, while they were talking of their growing hopes, even while the
cheerful profpcQ was fmiling in their view, a fudden flip tumbled him headlong from
the precipice, and daflied him to pieces on the rocks below |.

His fon David, the heir of his humble fortunes, had juft then returned from the
Well Indies, ftill crippled under a wound which he received in the fervice of his coun-
try, on board a man of war, but prepared to aflift the diftrefles of his father with the
little prize-money which had fallen to his fliare during his voyages.

The tar had married a pretty young woman before he went to fea, ^the fame whom
I faw bufied in fpinning,) but inftead of returning to a quiet happy family, he found
nothing at home but mifery and diftrefs, and faw himfelf almoft entirely adrift in the
world, with a mother, a wife and children to maintain. The death of his father had
brought all the hungry creditors forward, fo that he became heir only to the poor cot-

s';»I

* The path of defcent to Port na Spania lies in the land of a peafant who is not entitled to any part of
the fea coalt, but he receives, as a toll on iiis highway, every third hundred of kelp manufadurcd ^elow }
and this path, dangerous as it is, yet being the only one, malces it neccd'ary to comply with the demand.

f The whole bay generally produces about four tons of kelp, which is fold at the rate of from live to iix
pmntds per ton.

^ This melancholy accident happened in the fummer of 1783, when I was in this neighbourhood.

X 2

tage

li I

89a Hamilton's letters on tup. baialtfs or the

ta^e itfelf, and the nakcJ land which iurroundod it. However, it was his inheritance,
aiid as luch he would not part with it.

The prize-money which ho had got on his cruize was, for the convenience of car-
riajre (as his wife told ine), molUy converted into pi ite, that is, he returned homo with
a lilver watch, a lan^c pair of filver knee and (hoe buckles, and fuch other little matters
of ornament, as the vanity of a failor, who pays a vifit to his old friends after a lonj; ab-
fence, commoidy deliglits to exhibit. With thefe David fet out for the fird fair that
happened in the neighbourhood, to buy a horfe, which was abfolutely nec^lfary for the
cultivation of his farm ; but he was not in his own element : a jockey foon fell in with
him, and the tar gave his filver watch, the chief fortune of the family, for a jaded horfe,
which he afterv/ard found, on enquiry, old enough to have fecn the days of Lord Hawke
and Conflans, being upwards of twenty years of age.

Our young farmer, alarmed at the marks of debility which too manifeflly fhewed
themfelvesin his new horfe, and terrified left he might haftily give him the flip, and die.
in his hands, fet out with all expedition to try his fortune at market once more ; where,
with the afliftance of another piece of plate, he foon bartered his antiquated ftced, and,
under the influence of his late misfortune, purchafed a colt, almoft as unferviceable from
his youth, as the former had been from extreme old age.

Thefe calamities of the fon were little lefs ruinous than thofe of the father, but with
this difterence, that the misfortunes of the latter being fuch as no human forcfight could
have prevented, he was univerfally eftcemed and pitied by the neighbourhood ; while
every body laughed at the fimplicity which involved poor David in his diftreflcs. 1

However, fomc peafants of the next village, pitying his fituation, admitted him into
what is here called & neighbour dcalingy that is, he was allowed to join his colt in the team
with three of th^ir horfes, and the plough was alternately employed in each man's farm ;
by this means David has been enabled to till his inheritance, and this year a harvei' of
rich hope feenis to promife a reward — whether it fhall or not, refts with Providence.

Such is the fimple unadorned hiftory of this poor family, aflbrding an artlefs aft'edt-
ing pidure of the accidents and diftrefles of humble life, which I am fure will intereft
your feelings, and make you forget the tedioufnefs of this digreflion from my main
fubjcfl.

LETTER VIL
DEAR SIR, Porirufl}^ Aiiguji 20.

IT is a pleafing, as well as an intcrefting purfuit, to obferve the gradual advancement
of mankind in any particular objedl of enquiry ; to trace the wild fhoot of infant phi-
lofnphy, from the natural foil in which it has grown, rank and uncultivated, to the gar-
den of^fcience, where it blooms in all the improved beauty and vigour which the hand
of art and induftry can add to it. In this point of view, a little hiftory of the opinions
which have *prevailed concerning the curious combination of pillars in this neighbour-
hood, called the Giants* Caufeway, may perhaps aflford you fome amufement ; and if
it do not bring with it much folid information concerning the operations of nature, yet
it may be pleafant enough to fee the various attempts which men have made to explain
them.

'1 he native inhabitants of the coaft, as they were the earlieft obfervers of this wonder,
fo were they the firft to account for its produftion; and however rude and fimple their
theory may be, yet a little confideration will iatisfy us that it docs not deferve the igno.

minious

NORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTV OF AKTRIM. 893

mlnious appellation of bciiip grofsly barbarous ami abfurd. The Caiifoway was ob-
fcrvcil by tlio filhermen whofc daily luccflitics U'd thciii thither for fubfiflencc, to be a
regular mole, projcding into the fca, which anfwered for fcveral convenient purpofcs ;
onclolier infpection, it was difcovcrcd 10 be built wiih an appearance of art and regula-
rity fomcwhat refemblinir the works of men, but at the fame time exceeding every thing
of the like kind which had been feen : and it was found that human ingenuity and per-
fcvcrance, if fupported by fufficient power, might be abundantly adequate to its p.ro-
dudtion.

The chief dcfe£t in this fimple analogy feems to have been the want of ftrcngth equal
to the effect ; but this was foon fupplied in the traditions of a fanciful people, and Fin
ma Cool *, the celebrated hero of ancient Ireland, became the giant under whofe form-
ing hand this curious llrufture was erefted.

It was afterward difcovcrcd, that a pile of fimilar pillars was placed fomewhere on
the oppofitc coaft of Scotland, and as the bufmcfs of latitudes and longitudes was not at
that time very accurately .ifccrtained, a general confufed notion prevailed, that this mole
was once continued acrofs the fea, and conncded the Irifli and Scottifli coafts together.

Near the end of the lad century, when this kingdom began to revive from its misfor-
tunes under the regulations of William III., the fpirit of enquiry, which the Royal Society
of London had jult then called forth, began to bufy itfelf about this fmgular and ori-

§inal wonder. i\t this period we fmd, among the papers of the Society, a letter from
ir Richard Buckly to Dr. Lyfter, on this fubjefl:, dated in the year 1693, ^^ ^^^ merits
of which you may judge by the following extra£l :

*• Concerning the Giants' Caufeway : — Prolixity in a philofophica'. defcription I am
fure you will pardon, for I was very exaft in getting it from a perfon that was rei compos,
perhaps peritus ; a fcholar, a mafter of arts in Cambridge, and a traveller, who went on
purpofe with the bifliop of Derry to fee it, &c.

'* This whole Caufeway (fays the fcholar) confifts of pillars of perpendicular cylin-
ders. The pillars do not confiil of joints, as you were informed, but each cylinder is
one foiid piQce, only indeed in breaking, it breaks crofswife, and not lengthwife, which
we commonly call Splitting ; and all the (tones that rife up on the ftrand are all cylin-
ders, though of never fo many different angles, for there are alfo four-fquared upon the
fame fhoref. That the cylinders do not confift of joints is evident from hence, that
the pieces fo broken off have their bottom as often convex or concave, as flat or even."

Thus has this intelligent traveller demonftrated that thefe pillars have no joints, from
the very circumftancc which of all others renders their articulation moft curious and
furprifiiig.

In confcquencc of the information which this gentleman gave of the want of joints,
people began to compare thefe pillars with the regular foffils then heft known, the eu-
trochi, afteriae, and the rock chryital, which, on a diminutive fcale, feemed to bear re-
femblance with the larger maffes in the Giants' Caufeway ; and to this end a number of
queries were drawn up by Sir Richard Bulkley, which, with their anfwers by Doftor
Samuel Foley, are publiflied in the Philofophical Traafaftions of that period.

Such are thefe following :

*' Are any of the pillars hexagons, or fquares ? or be they pentagons only ?

• Mr. Mac Phetfon's more modern Finpal.

f With all due deference to tliis Cambridge mafter of arts, who fo fcientlfically defcribes thefe foiir-
fquaicd cylinder', he mull have made fome very unaccountable millake, or elfe matters have been (Irangely
altered fincc iii time, for there isi not now a fingle pillar to be found in the whole Caufeway which id not
clearly fcparabk into very many dilliofi joints.

1 1 Have

P.
i

894

IIAMILTON'a LHTTRRS ON TfTE BA9ALTKS Of THR

•* Have thi! tops of the pillars any gravin^^s or ftriatc lines on thorn ?

♦* Is the fuperlicies caniculate or olherwife grooved ?" kc. iic.

All which queries, though truly enough anfworeJ, yet produced very little uroFul in-
formation ; being entirely directed to the mere exterior appearance of the Caufcway
itft'if, without paying any attention to the general features of the coafl, to the attendant
follil fubltances, or even to the nature and chemical properties of the (lone itfelf, which
is utterly difl'erent from thofe foflils with which it was then compared. However, the
BritiHi pliilofophers feem to have purfued the analogy nf this fpecies of chryllallization
with very great confidence ; fo that the authors of the late appendix to their Encyclo-
paedia, have endeavoured to give it an air of probability, by dclineaiing many of the
bafalt pillars as terminating in pyramids, like the common rock crydal, and fome ipc«
cies of fa Its •.

To thefc anfwersa (ketch was added, of which an engraving'is publifhrd in the Philo-
fophical Tranfadions, entitled " A Draught of the Giants' Caufcway, which lies near
Bengore Head, in the county of Antrim, by Chriftopher Cole, A. D. 1694." Of this
drawing and its imperfeftions, the account which Dodor Foley hinifelf gives will be the
beft delcription : •* He tells me he has not drawn the Giants' Caufcway as a profpcft,
nor yet as a furvey or platform, for this he thought would not anfwer his dofign ; and
that he has no name for it but a draught, which he took after this fort. He fuppofed
the hills and Caufeway to be epitomifed to the fame height and bignefs the draught flicws
them, and this he fancied the moft intelligible way to exprefs it."

Doftor Thomas Molleneux was the firfl perfon who took any very confiderablc pains
to procure information concerning the Giants' Caufeway, and we have rcafon to lament
that the necclTary attendance of his profcfTjon prevented him from making his obferva-
tions in perfon, for which he fcems to have been well (jualirted : however, his intelli-
gence was the bed that had yet been colleflod. It was found that this fpecies of ftone
was not confined to the Giants' Caufeway alone, but might be difcovcred in the moun-
tain of Dunmull ; nay that it was certainly of the fame fpecies with the lapis mifncus,
or bafaltes of Stolpen, in Saxony, of which a flight defcription had been given by Agri-
cola, in his Hiftory of Foflils.

By the influence of this gentleman in the Dublin Society, that body employed a
painter of fome eminence to make a general (ketch of the coafl near the Caufeway ;
but neither the talents nor fidelity cf the artift feem to be at all fuited to the purpofe of
a philofophical landfcape.

An engraving of this is publiflied under the following title :

" A true Profpv.^ of the Giants' Caufcway, near IJengore Head, taken from the
North-weft, by Edward Sandys, A. D. i6g6, at the Expcnce of the Dublin Society.

« Right Hon. Sir Cecil Week, Knt. Prefident.

« Rcv.Dr.Afhe, BiftiopofCloyne, Wm. Molleneux, Efq., Vice Prefidcnts."

In this true prolpeft, the painter has very much indulged his own imagination, at the
expence of his employers, infomuch that feveral tall pillars in the ftccp bunks of this
fanciful fccne appear loaded with luxuriant branches, fltirting the wild rocky bay of
Port No.Tcr 1, with the gay exhibition of (lately foreft trees. In the bade ground he

• TliUrrprtfentatfon of the pillars tint probably b«n taVen from a drawing of th? bafaltes of Saxony,
ferit nuny ytam ago to Gefiici , together with a defcription v{ that fpecies of ftone by Kcnti.i n. I'hii draw.
ing contain* many errorj, and among the rell exhibits pillars of bafalies with conical terniinatitma.

t Thia bay lie* immediately catlward from the Caulcvray. I have here written the name marly as it is
pronounced Ly the natives, v lio havr fcarcc any knowledge of the Irifh language ; but the proper mode of
writing it (hould be Port ua fifatbach, which figailles the Ciauts' Fort.

difcovered

NORTHERN COAST OF THl COUNTY OF ANTRIM. 895

ilifcovercd a parcel of rude and ufclcfs materials, which his magic pencil foon trans-
formed into coiiifortablL'dwclling-houres, and tor chitiHUL* he h.is happily introduced
I'omc detached pillars of bafaltcs, which, from their pt'culiar fituatiori, and the name
given to them by the peafants of the country, naturally excited tho attention of this ex-
traordinary artift. And thus ucre concluded the labours of the lull century, concern-
ink; this curious work of nature.

From that period the bafalt pillars of this kingdom palTed almofl unnoticed for half
a century, and fcem to have been viewed cautioufly, and as it were at a didance, by men
of fcience, who appeared flow to engage with an objefk which had hitherto entirely
baffled the attempts of every theorid.

In the year 1740, Mrs. Su(;\nnah Drury made two very beautiful and correQ paint-
ings of the Giants' Caufeway, which obtained the premium appointed for the encou-
ragemcnt of arts in Ireland } and thele drawings being foon after engraved by the hand
of an eminent artift, and publidied, the attention of the world was once again directed
toward this antiquated fubjed.

Shortly after this, Dodor Pococke, a gentleman of confiderable induflry in philofo.
phical purfuits, made a tour through the county of Antrim, and was the only perfjn
who appearffto have taken a general view of the coafl, of which he has given a curfory
defcription. But not content with a plain hiftory of matters of fad, the learned Dodlor
ventured to ftart a new theory of his own, which 1 fear will not (land the teCLj>i a cri-
tical examination : to fay the truth, it is little elfe tlian the doftrine of the atoms of
Epicurus in a modern drefs •.

He conceives that the bafaltes might once have been fufpended in a watery medium,
either in folution, or as a kind of mud : that at certain times, accidental fits of precipi-
tation took place, in fuch manner as to form a range of fliort cylinders, whofe upper
ends fhould chiefly be convex : that as thefe joints became fomewhat folid, a fecond fit
of precipitation took place, forming a fecond range of incumbent joints, which mufl:

frencrally be concave, adapted to the convexity of the lower order, and thus, by fuccef-
ive fits of precipitation, he fuppofes a fet of ereft cylinders might be generated in con-
ta£t with each other. Now a fet of cylinders can touch only in right lines, and there-
fore muft leave empty fpaces 1^ tween them ; but the pillars being yet foft, and yielding
to the increafing preflure from above, fhould, he imagines, dilate, and fpread themfelves
out fo as to fill up the vacuities. And thus he conceives may the polygon articulated
pillars, of the Giants' Caufeway, be generated.

I fhall not delay you by any commentary on this unhappy theory, only to obferve,
that a more accurate enquiry would have diicovered horizontal and even curved pillars,
for the production of which this caufe is utterly inadequate!.

Such is the hiftory of the Giants' Caufeway, and fuch have been the labours of the
learned, and their various opinions concerning its ftrutture, in which, whatever may
have been already accompliflied, much certainly remains to be done, towards a judicious

♦ •• lUe cenfet, n uifinito I'nani, in quo nihil nee fummum, nee infimum, nee medium, nee ultiinum, nee
extrcnuim fit : tta terri ut, concurfionibus inter fe colierefcant : ex quo efiiciantur, ea qux fint, quique
C;.rnantur omnia."

t Mr. D' Acolla who has publidied this account of Doflor Pococke's in his Hiftory of Fofllla, ftrangely
ranges the lialaltes jmong the clafs of marbles, or Rones allied to marbles, with which it has not pny one
common feature of refemblance, except that it will receive a poliih ; fo that he might with equal propriety
haveclaffed it with any other hard fubftance in nature. In truth he feems to be very ill Informed on the
fubjedl imagining this to be the only Hone of the kind ever difcovered, and is in amaze to think how far it
may extend into the fca.

■ i 'I

I t

arrangement

,li

896

Hamilton's letters ok the basaltes of the

arranp-eraent of a fufficlont number of materials, whereon to build any general theory
to hxkfy a reafonable mind with refpecl to its formation.

In my laft letter I mentioned that the extent of country contiguous to the Caufoway,
through which all the varieties of this fpecies of ftone prevailed, was much greater than
had been imagined : and within thcfe few years it has been difcovered abroad, that the
bafaltes is a comn.on foflil through every part of the world, there being few kingdoms
where it may not be found under one fhapc or another. Hence it has come to pals that
the obfcrvations of men of fcience in diftant places have been united on this fubjed j
different theories have been compannl together ; and more general analogies fuggefted,
on which to build fome rational c-jnjetlures, concerning the caufe that might have
produced thefe wonderful pillars.

It is fomewhat fingular, however, that during thefe enquiries abroad, all appeals
which have been made to the Giants* Caufeway, in favour of any particular fyftem,
have always proved fallacious ; and dill more extraordinary, when one confiders that
thefe errors Ihould have principally arifen from the extreme pains employed in defcrib-
ing it, particularly from thofe two accurate and beautiful drawings executed by Mrs.
Drury, which have really been a ftumbling block to moil of the foreign writers on this
fubjedl. Ihus Monf. Demareft, the ingenious father of the volcanic theory of bafaltes,
ftrangely imagines that the Caufeway has been a current of lava erupted from the fide
of a conical mountain, though there is not a mountain of any fort in its vicinity, nor
one of that particular fliape within a great many miles of it. The truth is, that gentle-
man faw thefe much celebrated drawings, and has midaken the fegment of a fhelving
cape, at whofe bafe the pillars (land, for a portion of a conical hill cut down in the di-
reQion of its axis •, and this error has been confirmed by the prevailing cuflom of putting
thofe pictures together in the fame frame ; fo that the two fegments, (landing back to
back, exhibit the appearance of an entire conical mountain, fuch as Mr. Demareil de-
fcnbcs *.

It was alfo obferved by foreigners, that in every drawing and defcription of the Giants*
Caufeway, particular attention was paid to the circumllance of its projedling into the
fea ; hence a crude and indefinite opinion was adopted by many writers, that the pillars
of bafaltes were produced by the refrigeration of a liquid body of lava, in confequence
of being fuddcnly plunged into water. Such is the theory oi a Mr. Rafpe, who has
pubhlhed an account of the valley of HeiTe CalTel, in Germany, ami fuch are the fenti-
ments advanced by Monf. de Luc, in his excellent Letters addrelfed to the Queen of
England, in which he gives as his opinion, that the ancient volcanos were formed in the
ocean, where the fudden cooling of the melted mafs (not to count on the prefence of
the marine (alt) might have determined a regularity of figure in the cooling bodyf.

Though this opinion does with much ingenuity aflign a reafon why the bafaltic pil-
lars are not produced at this day, as they were formerly, yet a little confidcration will
fhew that it ought not haftily to be adopted, fince general experierce teaches us that all

• •' Je tirai de ccttc confotniite recoiinu un confequence que la force dc I'analogie m'autoriToit a tii-er:
Oftte coiift*<iiicncc inc fit voir, dans la Cliaufee de Gcans, tt dans toutc Ic nia(i'i.s prifmatiques que fe mon^
trent fur le bord rfcaipes de la mere en Ireland, ft un mot dans Je fommct tronquts, q'on v'appcrcoit, I'ou-
vrage des eruptions, d'liii ou dc plufieiir volcans qui fe font eteint, comnic cciix dcs Auvtrgnc." — See
Monf Dcniarcft's Memoir on the Bafaltes of Auvcrgne, in the volume of the French Academy for 1771.

f " Or, on voit unc caufe de plus, dam* Its volcan? ancitnta, que dans Ics modernes, pour produire cct
efftt ; c'cd lie s'ltre formes dans la mcr, ou, fans compter la prefccns du fel, raitoiichment feul dc I'eau, en
produifant un coiidenfation plu» fufaitc, a pu ctre un citcouflauce dctcrmiuanle." Dc Luc l.cttres a la
Heine de Grande 13retagnc.

tumultuary

• NORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM. igj

tumultuary caufes are only adapted to produce tumultuary efFefts : every fpecies of re-
gular figure produced by cryftallization, or any mode whatever analogous to it, being
always more perfefl:, in proportion as length of time and reft have allowed the different
particles to unite gradually ; indeed a moment's refleftion muft fatisfy any one, that the
furious encounter of a river of liquid fire with the waters of the ocean, fo far from being
fuited to form the neat and elegant arrangement of our pillars of bafaltes, can only tend
to introduce confufion and irregularity. But in truth, any arguments derived from the
particular fituation of the Giants' Caufeway wil' be found extremely erroneous, jbecaufe
the circumftance of its ftanding in the fea is purely accidental ; fimilar pillars being often
difcoverable on the fummit of the higheft grounds in its neighbourhood, many hundred
feet above the level of the beach.

I (hall no longer weary your patience by a more minute account of the opinions to
which this celebrated Caufeway has given birth, but (hall haften to a general view of the
bold volcanic theories that have been advanced to explain the production of the pillars
of bafaltes.

LETTER VIII.
DEAR SIR, Porirujhf yiuguji 24.

THE vicinity of the little filhing village of Portruih to the Giants' Caufeway, has
afforded me, during my ftay here, ample opportunity to vifit that curious work of na-
ture, and to examine, with a good deal of attention, the features of the adjoining coun-
try, which has hitherto been very imperfectly known.

The Caufeway itfelf is generally defcribeU as a mole or quay, projedting from the bafe
of a fteep promontory, fome hundred feet into the fea, and is fornied of perpendicular
pillars of bafaltes, which ftand in contaft with each other, exhibiting an appearance not
much unlike a folid honeycomb. The pillars are irregular prifms, of various denomi-
nations, from four to eight fides • ; but the hexagonal columns are as numerous as all
the others together.

On a minute infpectlon, each pillar is found to be feparable into feveral joints, whofe
articulation is neat and compadt beyond expreflion, the convex termination of one joint
always meeting a concave locket in the next ; befides which, the angles of one fre-
quently (hoot over thofe of the other, fo that they are completely locked together, and
can rarely be feparated without a fradture of fome of their parts.

The fides of each coliunn are unequal among themfelves, but the contiguous fides of
adjoining columns are always of equal dimenfions fo as to touch in all their parts.

Tliough the angles be of various magnitudes, yet the fum of the contiguous angles
of adjoining pillars, always makes up four right ones. Hence there are no void fpaces
among the bafaltes, the furface of the Caufeway exhibiting to view a regular and com-
pact pavement of polygon ftones.

The outlide covering is foft, and of a brown colour, being the earthy parts of this
ftonc nearly deprived of its metallic principle by the action of the air, and of the marine
acid which it receives from th,* fea f.

* Monfieur Faiijai de St. Fond took miicli pains to fearch for pillars of nine fides among the bafaltes of
Vivarais, in conftqiiciice of the account which Mr, MoUcneiix and Moiilieurdc Lille gave, tliat fucli were
to be found ; but there is little doubt tliat both thefc gentlemen were millakcn, as none of that denomina-
tion are to be dil'covered at the Giants' Caufeway or its neighbourhood. Indeed oftagonal pillars are very
raitly to be met with.

f Tlii'. coating contains iron which has loft its phlogifton, and is nearly reduced to a ftate of calx ; for
with a very modtrate htitt it beco;nc» a bright red ochre colour, the attendant of an iron earth.

V01-. iJi. 5 Y Thefe

' 1 i

89?

Hamilton's letters on the basaltes op the

Thefe are the obvious external characters of this extraordinary pile of bafaltes, ob-
ferved and defcribed with wonder by every one who has feen it. But it is not here that
our admiration ftould ceafe ; whatever the procefs was, by which nature produced that
beautiful and curious arrangement of pillars fo confpicuous about the Giant's Caufeway,
the caufp, far from being limited to that fpot alone, appears to have ext^^ded through a
large tiaft of country, in every direftion, infomuch that many of the coi.i'non quarries*
for feveral miles round, feem to be only abortive attempts towards the produftion of a
Giant's Caufeway.

From want of attention to this circumftance, a vaft deal of time and labour have
been idly fpent in minute examinations of the Caufeway itfclf; in tracing its courfo
under ihe ocean, purfuing its columns into the ground, determining its length and
breadth, and the number of its pillarp, with numerous wild conjertures concerning its
original ; all of which ceafe to be>of any importance,, when tfiis fpot isconfidered only
as a fmall comer of an immenfe bafalt quarry, extending widely over all the neigh-
bouring land.

'1 lie leading features of this whole coafl are the two great promontories of Bengore
and Fairhead, which Hand at the diftance of eight miles from each other; both
formed on a great and cxtenfive fcale; both abrupt toward the fea, and abundantly ex-
pofe d to obfervation, and each in its kind exhibiting noble arrangements of the diffc-
rmt ffecies of columnar bafaltes.

Ihe former of thtie lies about fevcn miles weft cf Ballycaftle, and is generally
defcribed by fcamen, who fee it at a dilhmce, and in profile, as an extenfivc h-^adland,
running out from thecoaft to a confiderable length into the fea; but, ftri£H^ ^— '--ing,
it is made up of a number of lefl'er capes and bays, each with its own pre; iie,

the tout enfemble of which forms what the foaiaon den:)ii'!inate the headland o ' o'^''^*

Thefe capes are compofed of a variety of dilllreiit ranges of pillars, and a great
numb.?r, of ilrata; which, from the abruptncfs of th.^coall, are extremely confpicuous,
and form an unrivalled pile of natural architoduie, in v.hich all the neat regularity and
elegance of art is united to the wild ma..'niilconce oi nature.

The moft perfed of thefe capes is called rieaikin, of which I fliall attempt a dcfcrip-
tion, and along with it hope to fend a drawiiii^wliicli my drafifmaii has taken from the
beach below, at the rifk of his neck ; for the approach from thefe promontories down
to the fea, is frightful beyond defcription, and requires not only a ftrong head, but
very confiderable bodily activity to accomplifli it.

The fummit of Pl^alkin is covered with a thin gralTy fod, under which lies the natu-
ral rock, having generally an uniform hanl lurfaco, fomewhat cracked and fliiverod.
At the d- pth of ten or twelve feet from the fummit, this rock begins to alfume a colum-
nar tendency, and forms a range of maiTy pillars of bafaltes, which flatid perpendicu-
lar to the horizon, prefenting, in the Iharp face of ihr promontory, the appearance
of a magnificent gallery orcolonade, upward of fixty feet in height.

This colonadc is fupported on a lolid bafe of coarle, black, irregular rock, near fixty
feet thick, abounding in blebs and air holes, but though comparatively irregular, it
may be evidently obferved to afteft a pecuhar figure, tending in many places to run into
regular forms, refembling the Ihooting of falts and many other fubflauces during a
halty cryftallization.

Under this great bed of ftone (lands a fecond range of pillars, between forty and
fifty feet in height, lefs grofs, and more fliarply defined than thole of the upper Itory,
many of them, on a dole view, emulating even the ncatncfs of the colu.nus in the

5 Giants*

NORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM. 899

Giants* Caufcway. This lower range is borne on a layer of red ochre ftone, which
fcrvcs as a relief to fliew it to great advantage *.

Thefe two admirable natural galleries, together with the interjacent mafs of irregular
rock form a perpendicular height of one hundred and feventy feet ; from the bafe of
which, the promontory, covered wiih rock and grafs, flopes down to the fea for the
fpace of two hundred feet more, making in all a mafs of near four hundred feet in
height, which in beauty and variety of its colouring, in elegance and novelty of arrange-
ment, and in the extraordinary magnitude of its obje£ks, cannot readily be rivalled by
•ny thing of the kind at prefent known f-

Though there are but two complete ranges of pillars which appear in any of the pro-
montories, yet is not improbable that there may be many more in fucceflion, at various
depths under ground ; and this opinion is confirmed by columnar marks which may
be traced in feveral rocks that lie in the fea. The Caufeway itfelf, which is fituated at the
bafe of cne of thofe promontories, on the level of the beach, is one of thofe columnar
beds that has been accidently (tripped and wafhed by length of time and ftorms.

The pillars of this whole headland appear naturally to affect a perpendicular fituation
and in the few places where they lie in an inclined pofture, it feems to be the effe£t of
fome external caul'c, which has deranged them from their original difpofition. Indeed
where the forms of cryftallization are imperfect, they may be feen to flioot in various
direttionb, and fometimes in irregular curves, but in moft of thefe inftances the co-
lumnar outline is very rude and unfiniflied.

Jt is worth remarking, that the ranges of pillars are more perfect in proportion as
they lie deeper under ground ; the fecond range in Pleaflcin is evidently better finiflied
than the upper one, and contains much fewer irregu-larities in the grain of its {tone ;
while the pillars of the Caufeway, which runs into the fea itfelf, have uill a greater fharp-
nefs in their figure, and are more clofe and uniform in their texture.

Such is the general outline of tins great headland, which affords objeds extremely
interefting to every one who may wifli to ftudy Nature in her bold and uncommon
works.

At the diftance of eight miles from hence (as I mentioned before) the promontory
of Fairhead | raifes its lofty fummit more than four hundred feet above the fea, form-
ing the ealtern termination of Ballycaflle bay. It prefents to view a vafl: compact mafs
of rude columnar (tones, the forms of which are extremely grofs, many of them being
near one hundred and fifty feet in length, and the texture lb coarfe §, as to refemble
black fchorle (tone, rather than the clofe fine grain of the Giants' Caufeway bafaltes.
At the bafe of thefe gigantic columns, lies a wild wa(te of natural ruins, of an enormous
lize, which in the courfe of fucceffive ages have been tumbled down from their founda-
tion by (lonns, or fome more powerful operations of nature. Thefe malTive bodies
have foineiimes withltood the (hock of their fall, and often lie in groupes and clumps

• The only inftanci's of different ranges of baTaltcs that have hitherto beea UifcovcreJ, occur in the va.
hiabte work of Monf. r.uijas do St. Fond, on the volcaiios of Vivarai^'., &c. but tlic arrangement which
uppears there, even with the iieatncfs thai always attend.- an engraving, 13 greatly inferior to that of Pleaflcin.

•j- Mr. I'ciniant is much niiltaken in his opinion that the little iiland of StalFa, wliofe grcateft height it
but one hundred and twenty-eight fee', contai.iii any objeft equ.tl to the bold promontories of Bengoic,
Neither are the bcil fpiciniens of pillars at otafTa at all comparable to thofe of the Giants' Caufeway, in
ricatnifj of form, or fini^ularity of articulation.

:|; This is tlie K.hodo)^iiiin Promonloiiuni of Ptolemy the geographer.

^ Thefe pillais do not, at hrll view, appear to have any marks of articulation ; bnt, on obferving fuch
as have fallen down from the top of Fairhead, they are found to be often feparatcd into pretty regularjointi
by the forte of the lull.

5 Y 2 of

-i

I i .

j f

I'H

900

ITAMIt-TON's LETTERS ON THE BASALTE3 OF THE

of pillars, rcfembling many of the varieties of artificial ruins, and forming a VTy novel
and ftriking landfcape.

A favage wildnefs charafterizes this great promontory, at the foot of which the ocean
rages with uncommon fury. Scarce a fingle mark of vegetation has yet crept over the
hard rock to diverfify its colouring, but one uniform greynefs clothes the fcene all
around. Upon the whole, it makes a fine contraft v;Ith the beautiful capes of Bengore,
where the varied brown {liades of the pillars, enlivened by the red and green tints of
ochre and grafs, caft a degree of life and cheerfulnefs over the difterent objefts.

Though 1 have particularly dcfcribcd the bafalt pillars of thefe two magnificent pro-
montories, yet there are many other fimilar arrangements through this country, which,
though lefs worthy of admiration as greSt objefts, yet become extremely interefting
when one wiflies to fearch minutely into .the natural caufcs wfiich might have produced
thefe extraordinary pillars. •

The mountain of Dunmull, lying bct:wecn Colerain and the river Bu(h, abounds in
thir fpecies of ftone, particularly at the craigs of Iflamore, where two different ranges
of cciurnns may be difcovered ; and at molt of the quarries which have occafionally
been opened round the mountain. They may be feen alio at Dunluce-hill, near the caftle
of Dunluce : in the bed of the river Bu(h, ne.»r the bridge of Buihmills : on the fum-
mit of the mountain of Croaghmore : in many parts of the high land over Ballintoy :
in the ifland of Raghery, and various other places, through an extent of coaft about fif-
teen miles in length, and two in breadth *.

I fhal! not at prefent delay you with a minute defcription of each of thefe, but may, in
the courfe of my letters, take an opportunity to mention the general charafter of the face
of this country, and any fingularities worthy of notice, in the forms and fituation of its
bafaltes. Yours, kc.

LEITER IX.

DEATi SIR, Portrujhy Auguft i'^,

IN my lafl: letter I defcrlbed the external charafter of the Giants' Caufeway pillars,
which will abundantly ferve to difcriminate the columnar bafaltes from any other foflil
of a different fpecies at prefent known. But as this ftone does not always appear in
its priftnatical form, it will be convenient to take notice of fome other properties, not
immediately derived from its figure, by which we fhall be enabled to diftinguifli it in
thofe inftances where it may be difpofed in more rude and irregular maffcs.

The bafaltes of the Giants' Caufeway f is a black, ponderous, clofe-grained ftone,
which does not cffervofco in any of the mineral acids.

Its fpecific gravity is to that of water, neai'y in the proportion of 2.90 to i.oo, and
to that of the fineft marble, as a. 93 to 2.70.

Though its texture be c ipaft, it is not abfolutely homogeneous; for if ground
to a fmootli furface, its bright jet-black poiifh is disfigured by feveral fmall pores.

• Beyoii'l this traft, which nhounds in pcrfccl pillars, an attentive nbferver will be able to trace the fair.t
fjiocie* of folTils in very diUant parts of the country, as far aH the northern (bore of Ijoiij^hrieafrli, and the
inountaina of the county of Dtrry ; in many placed of which iinperfed columnar torina may bo ohfcrvcd,
fo that the great caiiie which j^'cneratfd this fpecies of ilonc, has been exerttd thiough a i\)ACi of inorctban
forty miles in length and twenty in breadtii j that id, through above eight hundred liniaic m.len,

t I have intentionally conlined this account to the Hone of the Giants' Caufeway, btcaufe it ficms aa
perfefl in its kind aa any hirhcrio difcovered, and may in fume mciilurc ferve fur a llandaid, with which to
compare other ftunc ^1 the fame fpccicj.

6 It

KORTHERN COAST OP THE COltNTY OP ANTRIM.

901

It ftrikes fire imperfeftly with a fteel.

When expofed to a moderate heat in a common fire it afTumes a reddifli colour,
\Yhich is more vivid on its natural outfide covering, and lofes about y\ part of its
weight *. '

In a more intenfe heat it readily melts, and is, as the chymifts exprefs it^ fufible
per/e.

With the afTiftance of an alkali flux it may be vitrified, and forms an opaque glafs of
a black or bluifh colour.

Its principal component parts are iron in a metallic {late, combined chiefly with fili<
ccous and argillaceous earths.

Its metallic principle may be demonftrated by a very fimple experiment : let a fmall
fragment of bafaltes, in its natural ftate, be brought into contadt) or very near to a good
magnetical needle, and it may be made to detain the needle at a confiderable diftance
from its meridian. Let this fragment be touched by a magnet and it will acquire pretty
ftrong polarity, c-pable of attradiing or repelling the needle, at the diftance of an inch
or more. From hence it is proved to contain iron in a metallic (late, becaufe the calx
of that metal is incapable of producing any magnetical phsenomena whatever.

To determine the quantity and quality of each condituent part, requires a very flow
and laborious operation, which would be almofl equally tedious in tjhe defcription. I
Ihall therefore juft mention the refults from the experiments of that able chymift, Sir
Torbern Bergi:^an, whofe authority you will not readily queftion :

Bafaltes 100 parts.

Contains filiceous earth - 50 parts,

Arg'Uaceous earth 15

Calcarious earth 8

Magnefia - 2

Iron . - 25 t

111

100

From thefe elements we ihall eafily be enabled to account for feveral of its pro-
perties.

Hence it comes to pafs that its fpecif'c gravity is fo Cvonfiderable, exceeding that of
many (tones, which, when polifhed, appear much more compaft, the quantity of phlo-
gilUcatt'd iron eauly making compenlation.

We i'ee alio why it ani'wers fo well for a touchftone, the hardnefs of its iron particles
eafily rubbing and fretting oft" the parts of any fofter metal which may be applied to it,
and its black ground ferving to difplay thefe to gi eater advantage.

, Hence too arifes its fufibility without addition ; for though flint, clay, and calrarious
earth, are feparatcly refradory, in any degree of artificial heat, yet when mixed together
they are readily fulible, and (till more eafily when united with phlogifticated iron.

From the metallic (late of its iron element we are enabled to infer, a priori, that the
columns of the Giants* Caufeway are all natural magnets, whofe lower extremity is their
north pole, and the upper extremity their fouth pole. For having ftood during many
ages in a perpendicular pofition, they muft have acquired that polarity which is peculiar
to all iron fubltances in a fimilar fituation j and like natural magnets, every fragment,

* Tlii» lofs probably arifes from water expelled by tbe heat. For in the coiirfe of twenty-four hourj
afitr, it will nearly have recovered its furir.*.-ir weight, particularly if it be moi^encd.

. when

i I

go3

Hamilton's lbtTers on the basaltes of the

when broken, will have its north and fouth pole. And this I have found true by ex-
perience ; each pillar of the Giants' Caufeway, and each fragment of a pillar, which I
applied near to the needle, having its altraftive and repellent point.

Hence likewife it follows that the great capes in the neij^hbourhood of the Caufeway,
mull poffefs a fimilar property ; and, accordingly, in the feinicircular bays of Bengore-
head, I have often forwd the coinpafs very much derunped from its meridian.

The niagnetifm of thefe capes may perhaps' be an objeft of foine curiofity ; it mipht
be well worth inquiring, how fur fuch mallls of p!ik)gi(Licated iron within the earth
may produce thofe fudden and unaccountable deflexions of the needle, whicii are al-
ways inconvenient, fometimes fo dangerous to feamen ; and whether that Dill more
myfterious and inexplicable pha;nomenon of the annual variiUion, may not arife from
the gain or lofs of the principle of metalliety, which in the flow and regular courfe of
nature, may poflibly take place by the various aftion of hi.at and moidure.

We have proof fufficient on a diminutive fcal.?, that iron may by a variety of artificial

means lofe or gain that principle on which alone its magi;etical property d*.'pciids ; and

the decompofition of the bafaltes enables us to afnrm, v\irh r('afon.^.ble certainty, that

iuch changes do adual'y take p'ace in nature, and that tho magnctical phasnomena of

the promontory of Bengore, for inft;ince, nuiit now be diti'erent from what it was fome

ages ago, or from what it will be fome ages hence : it may, tlierefore, defcrve confidcr-

ation, how far this analogy could be purfucd with refpect to the whole mafs of the earth,

particularly as we have evidence of the oxidence oi a natural agent abundantly adequate

to this tfled, I mean fubterranean fire, whofc oxtonfive dominion is indifputably proved

by thofe numerous volcanoes that have been difcovered in fo many dillant pai s of the

world, and whofe foiirccs mull; lie at very confickTablo depths below the furface of the

earth, if we may argue from the vaft quantity of dilFercnt fubltances which they have

vomited forth in their various eruptions.

From a knowKdj^e of thefe elementary parts of the bafaltes, we are furniflied with an
analogy tending to tlirow fome light on the regularity of its form. One of its principles
is found to be liliceous earth, and we have very numerous proofs that this fubftance
docs, in other inflances which come within our obfervation, frequently affed a regular
figure, variable however under various circumllances. Thus rock ciyflal, which is a
very pure flinty earth, is commonly difpofed in the form of hexagonal prifms, the de-
nomination of fides which chiefly prevails among our bafaltic pillars. Thus variety of
cryftallizations are found to take place in the metal of glafs-houfes, where the furn^r-'
has been fuffered to cool gradually.

Iron is another of the principles which enter into the bafaltes ; and this metal is found
to cryflailize in regular figures, when all fit circumllances concur to permit the due ar-
rangement ot its parts. This is fometimes difcoverable in the ores of that metal, and
may be obfervtd to take phu:e impcrfedly even in our founderics in what is commonly
called the grain of call ii n, geneially prefenting to view a (triated app arance : but,
in cafes where the pains and ingenui./ of the chenilll has been exerted to exhibit
this phiunonitnon more t! cifively, very regular cubical figures havj bkn produced,
clearly afcertaining the exiiLence of this tenJcncv toward a peculiar diljjofition of its
parts.

In truth, the particles of every fuhflance in nature appear to pofleft, priv;i:e laws and
aflinities, whereby they proceed to unite, and to arrange themtelvcs in r-;ul.ir forms,
when all things neccflary combine to aflifl this tendency ; that is, when by any means
whatever, the particles are removed to a fuflicent didance, and afterwards fullered to
approach flowly and regularly according to their various laws of action.

Thus

NORTHERN COAST OE THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM.

903

TIuis it appeart. to be in the cafe of faline fubftances, which have been held in folu-
*tion in a watery r.iedium ; for if by the uniform evaporation of the fluid, or any other
flow and regular caiifc whatever, time and fpace be allowed in which the dilFolved
particles may exert, without difturbancc, their private laws of affinity, thcfe particles
will be found to affet^ an arrangement peculiar to that fpecies of body to which they
belong. Tlius again, all bodies which have been diffolved by the medium of heat,
when fufFered to cool rijuably, and without the rapid alllux of frefli portions of air,
do univerfally exhibit a peculiar difpofition of parts, of which inftances enough occur
in every fpecies of metal, in fulphurs, in glals, and, in fliort, in all fubftances capable
of a perftd fufion.

Since therefore we have fufficicnt evidence, in fuch imlances as come within the
reach of human powers and obfervation, that the elementary parts of the bafaltes do
afFoft a fpecihc form of cryftallization, and that this form is always more and moreper-
fed, in proportion as our experiments are made with greater regularity, and on a lirger
Icale, it may not appear u'lreafonable to purfue the fame analogy in the extenfive opera-
tions of nature, where thofc laws, which are but imperfedly exerted in our dimiimtive
experiments, may aft with full and undifturbed vigour, capable of pro-lucing the beau-
tiful fymmetry and arrangement of a Giants' Caufeway. And though cryltals have pro-
bably never been produced from any fimple fubftance, precifely anfwering to the arti-
culated bufalt pillars, yet no very important objection can be derived from hence, fnice
it is well known that elements which feparately form fpecihc cryftals, may, when united,
conftitute liy their compound laws, bodies different trom either figure. Thus melted
gUiis, through which fcoria: of iron had been accidentally mixed, was found to affeft a
columnar Ihape*.

'I'heie are the chief matters worthy notice, which have come under my own imme-
diati? obfervation with refpcfl to the perfetl: ftone of the Giants' Caufeway. I fhall
next mention fome of the leading varieties of its different fpecies.

Firlt, With refpcd to form and magnitude: the pillars of the Caufeway are fmall,
not very much exceeding one foot in breadth, and thirty in length, fliarply defined,
neat in their articulation, with convex or concave terminations to each joint. In many
of the capes and hills they are of a larger fize, more imperfcft and irregular in their
figu' ' and articulation, having often flat terminations to their joints : at Fairhead they
an gigantic magnitude, fometimes exceeding five feet in breadth, and an hundred
iniLagth; oftentimes apparently dellitute of joints altogether. Through many parts
of the country this fpecies of ftone is entirely rude and unformed, feparating in loofe
bl(Kks, in which ftate it refembles the (lone known in Sweden by the name of Trappe.

Secondly, With refpecl: to fituation : the pillars at the Giant;;' Caufeway (land on
the level of the beach, from whence they may be traced through all degrees of eleva-
tion, to the fummit of the higheft grounds in the neighbourhood, as at the old fort
of Dunmull, and on the top of Croaghmore, fix hundred feet at leult above the level
of the fra.

Thirdly, With refpeft to difpofition and arrangement : At the Caufeway, and in
mod other places, they ftand perpendicular to the horizon ; in fome of the capes, and
particularly near Ufhet harbour in the ifle of Raghery, they lie in an oblique pofition ; at
Doon Point, in the fame ifland, and along the Ballintoy fliore, they form a variety of re-
gular curves.

The little point of Doon is indeed extremely curious, containing at once perpendicu-
lar, horizontal, and bending pillars. Its bafe refembles a mole compofed of eredt co-

• Vide Ker's Obfci vatlons on the Cryftallization of Clafs. Phil. Tranf. vol. Ixv^

lumns

I ! i

904

lIAMIf.TON'a LETTERS ON THE DASALTES OP THK

lumns like thofe of the Giants' Caufeway ; over the extremity of this mafs others ap-
pear in a bending form, as if they had (lid over in a (late of fofinefs, capable of accommo-
dating themfelves to the courfe of their defcent, and thus afluming the figure of various
curves, in confequence of the aftion of gravity ; over all, feveral pillars are difpofed in
ail horizontal pofition, fuch as would accord with an hypothefis of their having juft
reached the brink of the defcent where they were fuddenly arrefted, and became rigid,
lying along with their extremities pointing out toward the fea.

Fourthly, With refpeft to colour and grain : the Giants' Caufeway (lone is black,
clofe, and uniform ; its varieties of colour are blue, reddirt), grey ; and of grain, all
that can be fuppofed from extreme finenefs, to the coarfo granulated appearance of a
(lone which rclembles imperfedl; granite, abounding in cryllals of fchorle, chiclly black,
though fometimcs of various colours.

Fifthly, With refpeft to texture: we mud obfervc, that Uiough the Giant's Caufe-
way (lone be in general compact and homogeneous, yet it is remarkable that the upper
joint of each pillar, where it can with certainty be afcertained, is always rudely formed
and cellular •: the grofs pillars alfo, in the capes and mountains, frequently ab( 'Und
in thefe air holes through all their parts, which fometimes contain fineclay and ether
apparently foreign bt lies: and the irregular bafaltes, beginning where the pillars ceafe,
or lying over them, is in general extremely honey-cotnbed, containing in its cells cryftals
of zeolyte, little morfels of brown clay, fometimes very pure (leatite, and in a few in-
flances bits of agate.

The folTils attendant on the bafaltes are, Fird, Extenfive layers of red ochre, vary-
ing;; in all degrees from a dull ferruginous colour, to a bright red, anfwering well for
coarfe paint.

Secondly, Veins of iron ore, fometimes very rich, commonly of a brown or reddifh
cafl, at other times of a changeable blue colour. *

Thirdly, Steatites, generally of a greeiiifh foapy appearance, more rarely of a pure
white ; it raifes an imperfeft faponaceous froth when agitated with water.

Fourthly, Zeolyte, of a bright and pureft white colour ; in malfcs varying in weight
from a grain to a pound ; generally difpofed in cavities of the cellular baialtes ; often
aFefting a cryftallization, in which the fibres radiate out from one center, in fome in-
flances refembling a beautiful fpangled appearance of thifllc down. The moil remark-
able property of this foflii is that it forms a gelatinous mixture in the courfe of a few
hours with any of the mineral acids, moil readily with fpirit of nitre t.

i ifthly, I'eperino (lone, a friable matrix of indurated clay and iron, (ludded with
little morfels of zeolyte, 'and other fubdances. It is often of* a reddilh t)urnt colour,
correfponding accurately with the peperino ftone of Iceland.

Sixthly, Pumice-done, of a deep black colour, containing iron not entirely dephlo-
gilUcated, but dill capable of ading on the needle; fometimes found on the (liore of
the ifland of Raghery.

• Vide pillars at the Mufetim of Trin. Coll. DuMin.

f Zeolyte is faidby tlie cliymifts to becompofedof ■rgillaceoiis, niiceoiis, anJ calcnrioiis cartlu, uni'tcd in
certain portions ti> water (vide Kirwaii'« Mincraloj^y, page 65). Ni)«', thai thefe elements iniiy polfibly be
found in it, I do not deny but that its fingular propirtifs can be accounted for from this union alone, fctmi
not hkely. In truth, chymical teft« depending only on affinities already Vnown, cannot aKvays difcovertiie
prefence of that element on which the chief phxiion^enn of bodies may often dtpenrl. A chymic-.il anal)!!*
can then only be elleemed perfectly decilive when it is fuppottcd by a fair fynflietiral proof, demonllratinjr
that the component parts difcovered by the aiiaij fn may be fo united a> to firm a iubltance pyiltdcd of all
the properties of the original.

The

KORTMIiRN COAST OF THE COUNTY Or ANTRIM.

905

The following folTrls foem to have cxillcd i.i their prcfcnt Ibrm, independent of, and
perhaps antcccdeni to the balUltos.

Firit, Challcy Limeltone : tlio whole country appears to have been originally formed
of this fubllanct', to the hcij^ht of feveral hundred feet above the pvefent Icvil of the
fea. It lies in beds nearly j)iuallel to the horizon, and contains fome fcarcc pctrifac-
tions, particularly bclemnitcs, more raroly alloria:.

Secondly, Flints : thcfo are difpofed in great abundance, and in various fliapes,
through the chalky linicllone; fonvelimcs, however, they are found loofe through the
ground; at other, times they may be dircovcrcd among the bnfalto:;*: but in all thefe
inlhmces the Hmrflone appears to be ihcir proper matrix, irom whence they have been
only accidently difperlud ; for the vegetable mold (in which they are never found, ex-
cept near the limeflone) molt commonly abounds in calcarious earth, as if it had been
principally formed by the decompofition of that fubftance, while the harder texture of
the flints, fuifering little change, were fcattered in their original ftate irregularly through
it. As for the baliiltes, it only contains them at or very near to the place of contad
with the inferior mafs of calcarious {tone, bits of which (lill continue to adhere to the
flints in many parts. 'J"he fubftance of the flints ti>o feems to have undergone fome
change in this fituation, their tranlparency, hardnefs, and colour being often conhder-
ablj altered.

^ Irirdly, Sandftone: a great mafs of this f rms the eaftern fide of Ballycaftle bay,
and in one part the bafalt pillars of Fairhead reft on it.

Fourthly, Pit-coal : it lies in beds between the layers of fandftone at Ballycaftle, and
appears to continue under the fea to the ifland of Raghery.

Fifthly, Martial Vitriol : this is formed among the coal-pits, by the union of theful-
phureous acid of the coals with a ftratum of iron.

Sixthly, A very Angular range of calcarious phofphoric rocks ; thefe lie on the fliore
of the ifland of Kaghery, nearly where the vein of the Ballycaftle coals might be fup-
pofed to reach. Clofe to the fhore it refi mblcs a hard white limeftone, of a blueifli
caft ; a little further inland it becomes fofter, and whiter ; by and by it affumes the ap-
pearance of a calcarious fand-ftone ; in each of which ftates it produces a vivid yellowifli
light when fprinkled on coals, or a hot iron. It does not emit a fulphureous fniell in
' burning, nor does it difcolour vitriolic acid in folution f.

1 have here given you a fummary of the principle varieties of the bafaltes and its at-
tendant foflils; perhaps you will fay that my brevity docs not help to make me intelligible,
but to this I muft ani'wer lirft, that if foflils cannot be afcertained by a few general cha-
ra^leriftics, a more laboured defcription of minute circuuiftances will do little elfe than
perplex any perfon who is not a very good mineralogift, in which cafe we have no re-
Iburce but in actual obfervatioii. And fecondly, that fuch circumftanccs as I have here
Mentioned, will probably afford a foundation broad enough on which to build any ana-
logical rcafonnig that may be derived immediately froni the nature of the fubftances
themlelves.

As I fiiould be forry to have given you the trouble of reading this letter only for the
unprofitable labour of learning uncommon names, which would certainly be the cafe
did this account terminate the fubject ; I Ihall, in my next letter, candidly apply fi'.ch ar-
guments as can be derived from the nature and properties of thefe ioiills, to explain

♦' Tor iiidanci-, iiiuloi' Diiiiliice Cal'ile.

f ,-i[n('iimiii ol' .ill tr.L;t; loiiiii iir.i)' be iVen in tire Mufcirn of T. C. D., unJir tlis dcfcripii'jn of IiiHi
Foil.ls, County of Antiim.

VOL. III. ? z the

9o6

Hamilton's lbttj'RS on thb basaltbs of th«

the volcanic theory of the produiE^ion of the bafaltet ; at the fame time, however, I
hope to be able to (late, with equal lioncdy, fuch objections as fe«in moil fubfiantially
to militate agamft this favourite hypotlicfis j leaving it to your own cxcelknt judgment
to decide on a fubied, where, as Sir Roger ile CovcrLy would okf«rve, ** much might
be faid on both fideti."

LETTER X.

DEAR srR, PoriruJhtAugu/i 7,1.

THERE arc few things that can affcft a contemplative mind with more furprizc,
than the numerous and Ugnal changes which appear to have taken place in the form
and arrangement of our earth, at fbn\e very didant age. It is'a fubjed which has at all
times engaged the attention oi mankind, and certainly conllitutes the mod interciling
department of natural hittory.

From the frequent and unequivocal vefliges of marine productions, which are found
in the tnidd of our moii extenfive continents, and on the fummit of feveral of the loftL
eft mountains, fome philofophers have been indiced to attribute the formation of the
prefent habitable world, to the violent and tumuL.uary fury of the ocean, agitated by
fome uncommon caufe * : Whilft others t have thought, that the gradual but unceal-
ing efibris of its heaving billows were abundantly adequate to account for thefe ap-
pearances on more common principles.

But variety of natural pha:nomena occur to an attentive obferver, which are deemed
incapable of being reafonably explained by thefe hypotlicfos ; whether we regard the
general features and elevation of many of our continents, or the nature and fituation of
the fofllls which they contain.

Hence it has come to pafs, that a new and more powerful principle, eftecmed cntirel«
equal to thofe effeds, has been adopted, and many of the moll furprifing phajnomena of
nature are held to be explicable by the potent agency of fubterrancau fire;

To this latter caufe the formation of our pillars of bafaltcs has been attributed with,
fome appearance of probability ; and though much has been faid on this fubjed with
vaguenels and indecifion, concerning the manner of their produdion, yet the principal
fafts that have been adduced in favour of the general opinion are worthy of attention,
and open to view a very novel and important object of enquiry.

The fii ft perfon who took a decided part in favour of the volcanic theory of the ba-
faltes was M. Defmarell, a French gentleman, whofe memoire on that fubjed may bo
feen in the publication of the Royal Academy of Sciences for the year 1771. Mr.
Defmarell made a tour through the county of Avergne, one of the fouthern provinces
of France in the neighliourhood of the Rhone, where he difcovered many piles of ba-
faltes, with more variations of magnitude, figure, and arrangement, than was at that
time known about the Giants' CauL-way in Ireland. By his means a geographical fur-
vey was made of this part of France, and a map delineated in which the diredion of the
mountains, and the fituation of its balaltes, were fuppofed to be accurately pi-ojedvd.

From this map, and his own perfonal obfervations of the i.ature of the foil, and the
general fpecies of its foflils, he conceived that this country had once been ravaged by fub-
terranean fire, of whole wafltful dominion undeniable vedigcs ftill remained ; and that
the bold inequahties of its furfacc, its hills and vallica, were formed by vail heaps of

• Burntt, Whifton, Woodward, &c.
12

f BiiiTon, Jcc.

fcorI;c

NORTHBRM COAST OF TMfi COUNTV OK ANTIIIM.

907

fcorix, and dilTcrent mclteii fubflanccs, which had iS\icd from iti> volcanic mountains,
Jpreading thenUelves in every dircdion from tia-fe llaming ccnteiu.

He imagined alio, that many of thelb melted torrents miglit be traced through thoir
v/holc extent, from the fide of the great volcano which gave them hirth in the moun-
tains of D'or, to their remotell extremities where they terminated in banks of prifmati-
(jal bafaltes. From all theft* circumdanccs he concluded, that the bafaltic columns were
formed by the gradual refrigeration of a mufs of fluid lava, during its flow progrefs over
the fubjacent foil, and that mod of its varieties of fhape and fituation might naturally hu>
attributed to the difl'erent interruptions of its courfe, or to the alterations introduced by
th« fuccefllve ravages of volcanic fire *.

After Mr. Defmarell many writers both foreign and domcflic purfued this interefting
fubjetl with great ardor. Among the Englifli authors we are principally indebted to the
labours of Sir William Hamilton, whofe valuable colleftion of fatb relating to thofe
places which arc at this day the feat of living volcanos, afford the furefl rules of judg-
roent concerning fuch countries as do yet bear ftrong marks of a volcanized appearance
without any direct evidence of the exiftence of fubtcrnincan (ire.

But the perfon to whom we owe the moll ample compilation of materials immeJiatcly
relating to the bafaltes, is Monfieur Faujas de St. Fond, who has lately publilhed a vo-
luminous work on the ex.tin£t volcanos of Viverais and Velay, counties adjoining to
Auvergne, which had before been defcribcd by Mr. Defnjarelt. In this work the au-
thor has given a particular memoir on the bafaltes, to which he has annexed defcriptions,
and engravings of the mod remarkable banks and mountains of bafaltic columns in
thefo two countries. But what renders his work dill more valuable, are the minute
and accurate accounts which it contains of the attendant foflils, particularly steolyte,
fchorl, and puzzolane earth ; becaufe we are from thence enabled to decide whether
thefc fubdances be univerfally connected with the bafaltes, or are only the accidental at-
tendants of it in a few particular counties ; and where fuch foflils are found together,
we have it in our power to edimate fairly the force of thofe arguments derived from
their nature and connection in any one country, by confidering candidly, how far they
ihould weigh with us in thofe indances which come immediately under our own parti-
cular obfervation.

In my lad letter I enumerated the chief varieties of the badiltes and its attendant fof-
Tils, as they occur in the northern parts of Ireland ; and I fliall now briefly date to you
fuch arguments as may be derived from them, in proof of the ancient exidence of fuh*
terranean fire in their neighbourhood.

Fird, The bafaltes itfelf is edeemed to be nothing elfe than lava ; and its varieties are

.attributed entirely to accidental circumltances attending s courfe, or the manner of

its cooling. — In fupport of which opinion it is aflirmcd that the bafaltes agrees mod ac-

• " A mefure qu'on parcourt ces Canton's, en faifant la rfcherelie & rcnumeration des mafles prifma-
tiqiics, qii'oii etudie Its cuiirziito, fur tout vers leur cxtrciiiic.-i, qu'on fuit Icur marclie Jrpuis le centre dci
eruptions, leur echalnmcnt Sc leur diltributlon a lu fupcrticic Jcs plainct hautcs qui feparent les vall.)n3, qu'oii
examine los diffcrcnten efpeces des pierres dont Is font compotes, on reconuoit a cheque pas que cc font
d««hors d' oeuvren etablit fur le ful naturcl. On didintrues les produits du feu des fubflance". iutad\cR &
Ton apptecie du meme temps ksi tranfports immenfes dei m-iliercs fundiii.:, dont lea prifintrs font toujour
pnrtie. — Defnurell fur I'urigine 5c la nature du Dafalt. Sec Memoirs of the French Acade ny for the
year 1771.

523

curatt'Iy

i J

3o8

hamii.ton'b litters on Tub basai.tes or thr

curati'ly witli tlif? Iiiva in its elementary principles •, in its j^rain, in the fpecicaof the
loreign bodies v.liicli it inciiuli s f, i.iui in all tiie diverlitiis ol its lextdn- \.

Socondly, The iron of thobal.iltcs is found k> dc in a nKt:illio llatc oapahjp nf a6>in;5
on the nv.ignctical necdU*. 'Iho lame is trii'; of the iron contained in the compact lava,

'Ihirdly, J he bal'aitcs poflcllcs the rer.iarkablc property of being fuliblc per Icj this
property is alio common to the lava and molt volcanic liibllances.

Fourthly, 'I'ho balallis is a foreign rul)llance, luperinvUiced on the original limcflone
foil of the C"untry, in n Hate of foftntis capable of allowing the (lints to penetrate con-
(iderahly within its lower liirfacc. — It is hardly neceliary to add, that the lava is an ex-
traneoiis inals, overlpreadiii^ the adjoining foil in a fluid Hate; that it is often born on
a llincdone bale, or that flints and other hard nutters lio frequently penetrate into its
fubilance. In flwrt, the circumllanccs vi agreement are fo nvimerous, and fo clear, as
fo create a very real'onable prefumption that they are one aud the liime fpecies of fub-
ftance.

But the evidence derived from the nature and properties of the attendant fofllls,
fecuis alio to contribute largely in fupport of this opinion.

Thofc extcnfive beds of red ochre, which abound among our bafaltes, are fuppofed to
be an iron earth reduced to this Uate of a calx by the powerful atition of heat ; for fuch
a change may be produced on iron in our common furnaces, provided there be a fuf-
ficient alllux of frelh air ; and the bafa'.tcs itfelf in fuch circumllanccs is eaflly reduce-
able to an impure ochre, exadly fimilar to that found at IJengore This phenomenon is
alio obferved to take place more or lei';, in the piefent liviii;; volcanos, particularly within
their craters, and is therefore held to aflorda prefumptive argument of the attionof fire
in the neighbourhood of the bafaltes.

I remarked to you the frequent bits of zcolyte which abound in the county of An-
trim, and thefe, though not ilu imn\ediatc product (aj far as I know) of any livinjj
volcano, are yet thought to countenance the general fyllem, becaufe zeolyte is found in
countries where fubterraneous fire is (lill vifiblc, and where there is great reafon to
apprehend that the whole foil has been ravaj^,ed by that principle. Thus it abounds in
Iceland, where the ilamcs of Hecla yet continue to blaze § ; ami in the lile of Bourbon,
which is laid to bear undeniable marks of a volcanic character || ; this fubflance is
therefore fuppofed to arifc iVom the decompofition ol the volcanic produtls, in places
^hofe fires have been long fince extinct.

• This will appear pretty evident, from dating the proderta of each fiibftance according to the analyfit
of that able clijrinill. Sir Toibcrii Bergman :

Lava J 00 parti.

Balaltea

lOU

pai

ts.

Contains

parts

Siliceous earth

Argillaceous do

Calcatious do.

Ma^nilia

Irou

»5

100

Contain'.'
Silicfuns e.irth
Arjjilluccuii:. lio.
Calcariuus do.
Iron

parti.

I a

leo

f Bits oflimcdone, flints, fcliorl cryllals of various colours, morfeis of pure clay, &c. are common totlie
bafalfs, and to lava.

J All the varieties of texture which take place In lava, from the compai^ clofe grained kind to the
fpoiipy lava, may alfo be traced amonj^ the balalcen.

^ Vide Van Troll's Letters on Iceland.

d VidcMtllis, Dvfmarell, I'aujasdc »jt, Fond, Rafpe, &c.

8 Cryftals

NORTHERN COAST OP TIIR COUNTY OT ANTRIMt

909

Cryftals of fcorl ;ipp,';ir in prcat plenty ainnnrr many kind; <it'oiir baralti«s, and thoTL',
thou^;h not abfolutvly limited to volcanic co'intrics, yet bviivr i'ountl in jneat abumlincu
amonjf the Italian* lav:is, in circumllanccs exatUy correlponding to our's, arc tlioiu'Iit
to I'upply :i s«J"d pr>)hahlf ar[;iimenr in the proI'L-iit iiillanoc>.

I'he I'ublianc'j v hicb I mentioned under the name of p'-ptM-iiio flonc, i:) believed to
b'' the undoubted otUiprih}^ of fire ; it has fre(|uently the burnt appearance and fpongy
texture of many of the volcanic products, and agrees accurately with the popcrino of
Icel;ind md Bourbon illands, which flill contain burnin;.!; mountains.

I'uzz )lane earth is not immediately found in that (fate in Ireland, but it is uifco-
vcred among the bafaltcs of France, and there is very little doubt that our baCaltos, if
pulverized, would agree with it in every rcfpcCl ; that is, it would produce a fwj (harp
powder, containing the fani" elementary parts, and moll probably anfwtrin'^ all its va-
luable ufes as a cement f. 5*uzzolane earth is found in the Canary idands, which are
edcemed to have other charadorilfics of the elleds of firo ; it is mot in abundance
through all the volcanized parts of Italy j it is never difcovered except in places which
have other llrong marks of the ravages of (ire.

The dilcovery of this earth is therejori' thought to add great weight to the many other
proofs which have been ment oned in favour of the general (yflem.

Pumice-done is a fubltancc fo generally acknowledged to be the product of fire, that
I need not be at any trouble lO enforce it ; indoeil it bears the character of a cinder (b
obvioufiy in its external af , earance. 'lat one mud be convinced at lirlt view of its ori-
ginal. This foflil is lometimes foui ,' on the (liore of the ifland of Raghery, among the
rounded iloucson the beach of tl ' i a J, and being fuppoled an unequivocal teft of the
action of lire, is imagined to complete all that could b - defired in this kind of rcafoning.

Such are the internal r^ . uents in I'u] poi .jf the volcanic origin of the bafaltcs, im-
mediately derived from 'he inture and properties of that fubdance and its attendant
follils compared with other fubllances which are the certain products of lire ; and it
mud be confelVcd, there appears throughout fuch a remarkable coincidence of circum-
(lances, as railes a Itrong prelumption in favour of the opinion that they have been
produced by fimilar caufes; but there dill remains other external proofs, which when .
added to the former are luppofed to form a demondration almod as pcrfedt as the na-
ture of fuch analogical reafoning will allow.

In the beginning of this letter I mentioned that MelTrs. Defmared and Faujas de
St. Fond had delcribed the bafaUic provinces of France, its containing mountains, whofe
exterior appearance was fuch, that they readily pronounced them to be extinfl volcancs.
One of thefe, on the banks of the river Ardefchc, called the Montagne de la Coupe,
feems to exhibit the proofs of its origin in charaftcrs peculiarly clear and diflinft. It is
of conical rTi, exattly correfponding in fhapc with the prefcnt living Volcanic moun-
tains, and i'l them it contains a largo crater nine hundred and (ifty feet in diameter,
and fix hundred feet in depth §. The fubdances that have been difcovered through all

• ViJeFerber's Lctttra on Italy.

I A few experiinciua on lliia fuhjcft mijjlit pi-rhnps be worth the attention of the pentlcnien conccned
in the inland navigation of Iiciaiid ; am! tlitn." ia nu)re rcafon foi hope of fucctfj in tin's LMiquiry, as ilie
Swtdea have alrtady applied tlair pulvcri/.i.'d trappc (mnch rcfcmblin^ our coaife liafaltcs^ as a good fub-
llitute for tiie pu/./.olane, formerly brought at great cxpenee fror.i Italy and tlie Canary ifiar'Is.

+ Pnmice-llone occnr;i fo rarely, that I have been often induced to doubt whether it iwight not lie a fo-
reign fubllante accidentally driven here by tlie waves from Iceland, or fome oilier volcanic country. I hhv-
tver, on trial, it Is found too heivy to have floated thither, its iron not being cntirdv d^-phloijiilicattd, ;ij is
evident from its deep bhak col jur, and a I'mall degree of maguetil'm which it Hill pofll'llcs.

§ Vide Monf. Tunjas de St. Fond, fur lea Voleai.3; &c.

it?

gio

HAMILTON S LETTERS ON TH2 BASALTES OF THK

its parts, particularly in a deep ravine formed on one fide by torrents, bear a ftron;» rc-
fcmblauce to many of the Vefuvian produfts. In fine, the volcanic features of this
mountain are fo ftrongly marked, that an accurate account of it would afford no very
uniuitiible defcription or Vefuvius itfelf during the intervals of its eruptions. Now the
Montiigne de la Coupe contains at its bafe abundance of bafaltic pillars, which have been
expofed to view on one fide by the impetuous torrents of this mountainous country,
particularly of the river Ardefche, whofe banks are formed of columnar bafaltes. And
thus are two chara£lersof a bafaltic and volcanic mouiltain efteemed to be decifively
united in the Montagne do la Coupe *.

'I'hcre are three living volcanos at prefent known, within whofe neighbourhoods the
bafaltes, and molt fpecies of its ufual attendant foUils, have been obferved. ITie firft is
fituatcd in the ifland of Boirbon, off the fouthern coaft of Africa t ; the fecond is JEtna \
in the iilaiid of Sicily,and the third is Hecla in the idvuid of Iceland § . To which it may
be added, that tiie bafaltes is found in the volcanizod parts of Italy, as at Bolzena |, and
other places ; though not (as far as I have been informed) any where immediately con-
tiguous to Vefuvius. Thus (fay the naturalifts) do the argument derived from the litu-
ation of this fpecies of foffil, with refpett to mountains which yet continue to burn, co-
incide with thofe other clear and fatisfaftory proofs, which were drawn immediately from
its nature and properties, in proof of its volcanic origin.

In addition to what has been here dated I (hall mention another plaufible argument in
fupport of the opinion, deduced in fome meafure a priori.

It is well afcertained by experience, that there are vaft beds of pyrites difperfed
through the interior parts of the earth ^t all depths ; and it is a certain facl, that this
compound fubflance may, by the accidental affufion of a due quantity of water, become
hot, and at length burn with great fury. This, therefore, is one principle to which we
way, with the ftrongefl probability, attribute the origin of fubterranean fire, more efpe-
cialLy as the prefent living volcanos do aftually pour forth in abundance all the compo-
nent parts of the pyrites, the chief oi' which are fulphur, iroii, and clay. Now among
the fupcrinduced fubllances of the county of Antrim (and I believe the fame may be faid
of every other bafaltic country) it is certain that the quantity of iron and clay, diffufed
through almoft every fpecies of foffil, amounts to more than one half of the whole ma-
terials, fo that two of the principal elements of the pyrites are flill found here, reduced
in many inftances to a ftate of flag or fcorise; and the third principle, namely the ful-
phur, cannot in the nature of things be expeded to remain, becaufe fulphur does in a
great meafure perilli during the act of inllamnwtion ; and what might perchance
efcapo cr be fublimed, would no doubt have long fincc periflied by dtcompofition, in
confcqucnce of being expofed to the air.

Thus in fact every part of the pyrites which could reafonably be cxpcfled to furvive,
docs at this day aftually exill in form extremely fimilar to the produds of JEim, Vefu-
vius, and Hecla, the three moll celebrated volcanos of Europe.

• I have Wecii mint jianicular in mciutoniiijf tlii-i ni()uiit;ii», becaufe iny information couceriiiiip it ha«
hitn ci>nlirniiil by the accouiic of my iiittlligiiit tiiciid DoClor Perciv<il, of Diililin. v, liol'c accurate ubferva-
tions and exallent jiidgintiit tan only beexeeedtd I'V the uncommon candour of liism.nd,

■f Vide Mcil'iS. IJelnianit, l'"Hiijas de St. Fond, Ral'iie, 5:c

I The iii.inj of C»llcl-i.-itiere, near Catana, oft the Loalt of Sicily, i» entircl) bafaltic — Vide Sir Wm.
iuinilton's C'«mpi PhlcjfnEi.

^ Viiie \'on 'frctil's l.rltei'>on Ictl.i
il Vidr. iir William Hamiltoo'l Can

mpi Phlcgrsti, Ferbcr'i Letters, &c.

LETTER XL

NORTHERN COAST OF TMS COUNTY OF ANTRIM.

9'*

LETTER Xr.
DEAR SIR, Portrttjh September j.

NOTWITHSTANDING the nirmerous and fpecious arguments which are urged
in defence of this volcanic theory of the bafaltes, yet many difBctUties and objeftions
have been raifed againft it by men of excellent underftanding ; jomeof thefe are of
confiderable force, and as I do not wifli to diftate any opinion to you, but rather modeftly
to otter what information has come in my way on the fubjeft/ 1 fhall candidly ftate
thofe objeftions, together with the moft reafonable aafwers. It is laid, that this theory
does raftily attribute fonie of the moft regular and beautiful phstnomena of nature to one
of the moft tumultuary and irregular caufes that can be imagined ; afcribing the ex-
quifite an-angement of a Giants' Caufevvay, which alrooft emulates the laboured works
of defign, to the blind fury of a burning volcano.

This objcftion, which is pretty ftrong in itfelf, has certainly received very confiderable
fupport froa. the various unfuccolsful attempts that have been made to explain the man-
ner in which the pillars of bafaltes were produced : one perfon • wildly attributing their
formation to the refrigeration of a current of lava, fuddenly plunged intO' the ocean ::
another obfcurely hinting that fome occult quality in the fea fait might have had its
Iharc in the bufmefs : a third f fuppofing, contrary to experience, that the melted mafs
of lava ntiglit in its liquid ftate have been capable of a confiderable difFufion or folution
in water, by which means the particles had an opportunity of arranging themfelves in
regular cryftalizations : a fourth J conceiving that the bafaltes was originally a bed of
iron and other fubftanees, gradually moiftened, and foftened in the ftreams of water
heateil by fubterrancan fire and afterwards alTuming its regular figure during the time
cf drying and hardening.

It,is pretty plain, that none of thefe indefinite explanations can at all fatisfy a thinking
mind, and as an unfortunate argument generally tends to encreafo the apparent weak-
iiels of a c aufe, in defence of which it is brought forward, it has hence come to pafs,
that many perfons of good fenfe have held the whole volcanic fyfteni to be extremely
fallacious.

in truth, there fecms to be but one operation of nature, which affords any rational
principle of analogy, by which we can attempt to explain the formation of the bafaltic
pillars. It is certain that the particles of moft bodies, when removed from each other to a
proper diftance, and fuffercil t.o approach gradmilly, alfuuie a peculiar form of arrange-
ment, as if the parts of each fpecies of matter did, independent of their general proper,
ties of cohefion and gravity, pofl'efs alfo private laws and affinities tending to produce
thefe fpecific forms. However, let the caufe be what it may, the faft at leaft is fuf-
fii'.iently certain : and it does not appear to be a matter of any importance by what me-
dium the particles are difunited, provided only, that a fuflicient fqjaration, and a gradual
approximation, be allowed to take place.

Thus, whether bodies be diflfolved by fire, or by a watery medium, the phrenomcna
of ci^ftali'/ation is equally obfervable when proper art has been applied to render its
efftils vifible.

I mentioned, in a former letter, that the bafaltes was cnpablc of a very pcrfefl fufion,
and that two of its elementary par^s were iuch, as, by expcriLiicc, we know to pollefs
the property of cry flalization by fufion, both in their feparateanl combined ftates.

• Mr. Rafpe.

f Mr. Kirwan.

X Bcrgnan.

Since

912

Hamilton's lftters on the basaltes or tiir

Since thcr':'foro the bafaltcs, and its attendant foflils, bear flrong marks of th?c(Tc£l;s of
fire, it docs not fecMii unlikely that its pillars;[may have been Ibrmcd by a proccfs ex-
acily analogous to \vhat is conunonly denominated cryftalization by fiirion.

The only apparent fpecific difference between the bafaltic cryftals, and thofe which
are produced in our ditninutive olaboratories, feems to be in the complete difunion of
the pillars, and in the articulated ionn which they fometiines exhibit. But this will not
api^ear to be a m.itter of any importance, when we refletfl, that in natural oporations of
the fame kind, but dilTering in magnitude, tiio fame proportions are commonly obferved
between the different parts : thuS, the fame ratio which the diameter of a bal'altic pillar
bears to the diameter of one of our diminutive cryftalizations, will the iiuerval betweea
the pillars of bafakes bear to the interval between the parts of our cryltal ; and who-
ever wi'l take the trouble to calculate this diflance will find it fo very hnall, as eafily to
admit the difloivnt furiaoos within the limits of cohefion ; fo that no feparability of cryf-
tals intj joints can pollibly take place, from their fnullncrs, though they often bear
marks which might lead one to imagine them capable of difunion.

If this reafoning be allowed to have weight, the objeclion derived from the irregu-
larity and confufion of a volcanic caufe will not appear unanl'werable. For though, ''u-
ring the moments of an eruption, nothini^ buf a w;i(leful fccnc of tumult and diforder
be prefented to our view, yet, when tin; fury of thofe llames, which have been (Iruggliug
lor a paflage, has abated, every thing the;i returns to its original ftate of reft, and thofe
various melted fubllances, which but juft before were in the wildeft ftate of chaos, will
now fubfide, and cool with a degree of regularity utterly unattainable in our clabora-
tories, and fuch as may eafily be conceived capable of producing all the beauty and fym-
metry cl a Giants* Caufeway.

A fecond objection arifes from hence, that the currents of lava which have ilfued from
iEtna and Vefuvius, within the memory of mnnj have never been known to exhibit this
regularity of arrangement. It is therefore laid that experience does abundantly prove
the fallacy of the volcanic hypothefis.

In reply to this we are told, that it is not in the erupted torrents of thefe volcanos wo
rre to look for the pliicnomena of vr;ltailizntioii, but in ihe interior parts of the moun-
tains thenji'lves, and under the lvr*>i;:e of the car:ii, where the metallic particles of the
lava have not been dephlogifticated by the accefs of Irefli air, and where perfed red, and
the moft gradual I'iminution of temperature, have permitted the jiaits of tiie melt^'J mafs
to e,\e:i tiieir proper laws if arrange 'iii'. lit, I'o as to aliume the ionn ofcoluir.nar lava:
that we muft w.-'it, until thofe volancic mountains which at prefent burn vvi?h fo much
fury, ftiall have completed the period of their f xiltence j until the iiumenfe vaults,
which now lie within their bowels, no longer able to lupport the incumbent weight,
fliall fall in, and difciofe to vie''/ the wondmsof tiie fubrrrrancan world : and then may
we expect to Ir.hold all the varieties of cr) I'h'.lizaiion, luch as needs take place in thefe
claborat iri s of Nature; then may we hnpc to fee Lniiiks and eauf ,va)s of balaltes,
and all the bold and uncommon beauties which the abrupt prom<" s of Antiini now
txhil'it.

It is ftatcd as a third ohjeclion, that, areordiiig to this hypothiTis, i!v.' bafaltjs muft
h-wc be"n reduced to a peruct Hate of lluidity, in order to piTm i tiio piutuomena of
crvilali-'-^tion to take place, but, that there is no realon tor believmg it 'Vix could have
been '.:. j vted ro any inteide adion of lire, io as to be reduced to a Hate of thin fufion,
bec.'.ufe it Joes not contain air holes, like the lava, n n- julLib thole nrarks of viirilica-
tion, wl.ich I'.ltcnd a very moderate heat in our laboratories.

The

KORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY Or ANTRIM.

9'3

The firfl: part of this objeftion is ill founded, though advanced by Walloiiiis, and
other eminent inineralogifts. All the bafalte?, which 1 have ever fecn, docs, in one
part or another of its fubftance, always exhibit air holes ; and it is remarkable that even
the pillars of our Giants' Caufeway, which are fingularly compaft, have their upper
joints condantly more or lefs excavated, fo that this part of the argument does rather
plead in defence of the volcanic origin of the bafaltes. i

With refpe£l to the want of all marks of vitrificat'on, we are to confidcr thatfub-
ftances in filfion are very differently affedted, in propoi ikm as they arc more or lefs ex-
pofed to the accefs of frefli air, the prefence of this element being abfolutcly ncceffary
in order to deprive a body of its phlogifton.

Thus, metals which may be readily vitrified by expofure to heat, and the free afllux
of air, will yet bear the moft intenfe aftion of fire in clofe vefl'cls, without being deprived
of that principle on which their metalliety depends, and are therefore in this fituatiou
incapable of being vitrified. The bafaltes may therefore have been fubjeftcd to a very
great degree of heat, within the bowels of the earth, and yet (hew no marks whatever
cf vitrification, and hence it may be explained, how it comes to pafs that the iron princi-
ple of the bafaltes (till retains its phlogidon, ading fo fenfibly on the magnetical needle.

A fourth objeftion is derived from hence, that in many of the countries where the
bafaltes moft abounds, there are no traces whatever of thofe bold and decifive features
which conftitute the diftinguifliing charadterillic of a volcanic tnountain ; its lofty point-
ed form, its unfathomable crater, and many other circumftances that ftrike the fcnfes
very forcibly at iEtna and Vefuvius. — The bafaltes, therefore, is affirmed to be a foffil
extenfively fpread over the furface of the earth, and where it is found in the neighbour-
hood of volcanic mountains, it is faid we fliould fuppofe thefe to be accidentally raifed
on a bafaltic foil, rather than to have created it.

It muft be confefled that volcanic mountains are not always found to attend the ba-
faltes, at leaft there do not appear any dired veftiges of them in the neighbourhood
of the Giants' Caufeway in Ireland.

But the advocates of the fyftem are not much embarralTed with this difficulty ; ac-
cording to them, the bafaltts has been formed under the earth itfelf, and within the
bowels of thofe very mountains, where it could never have been expofed to view, until
by length of time, or fome violent (hock of nature, the incumbent mafs mult have
undergone a very confiderable alteraiion, fuch as (hould go near to deflroy every exte-
rior volcanic feature. In fupport of this it may be obferved that the promontories of
Antrim do yet bear very evident marks of foni vio!< nt convulfion which has left theiiv
(landing in their prefent abrupt fituation ; and that tliciflmd of Ra;!;hery, and fome of
the weftern iflcs of Scotland, do really appear like the furviving fragments of a country,
great part of which might have been buried i'^ the ocean. It is linihi'r adJeJ, that
though the exterior volcanic character be m a 'jrezt meafure loR in tl ' ;'.raliic coun-
tries, yet this negative evidence can be of little avail fince the few init where th?
the features have been preferved aflbrd a fufficicnt anfwcr to this objccti.in.

Thus the Montague dc la Coupe in France (till rears its pointed top to the I leavens,
retains its deep crater, and bears every chavaderiftic of its volcarnc origin ; and this
mountain is obferved to (land on a bafe of bafaltic pillars, not dilpofeil in the tumul-
tuary heap into which they mufl have been thrown by the furious ai5lion ot a volcanic
eruption tearing up the natural foil of the country, but arranged 'v^ ail the regnlar'ty
of a C'.iant!)' Caui'eway, fuch as tnight be fuppol'ed to refult from the crylhli/-;ation oi a'
bed of melted lava, where rcll, and a graiual refrigeration, contributed to reader tl'.e
phaiuomenoa as perfect as "potlible,

vol.. Ill, 6 A rii'ih'v.

914

Hamilton's letters on thb dasalths op the

Fifthly, It ir obforveu by Monfieur Fiuiias de St. Fond, that at the foot of the mount-
tain of Mezinc, in the province of Velay, a range of bafahic pillars (lands fupported
on a bed of folTil coal, with a very thin ftratum of clay not more than a few inches thick
interpofed ; now, that this inflammable body of coal could have remained uninflamed
under a mafs of melted lava, thirty feet thick, feems highly improbable, and therefore
It is evident, fay the advcrfaries of the fyftera, that the bafaltes could not have derived
its origin from fire

In anfwer to « .is plain and weighty obje£lion, it is affirmetl, that no fubftance in
nature can be confumed by fire without the accefs of atmofpheric air ; that fire may be
palTed through inflammable air itfelf, without exciting aiflual inflammation, urjefs the
atmofphere lend its afliftance. Hence it cannot appear ft range tliat a bed of coal might
havefurvived in the neighbourhood of a volcano, and even under a mafs of fluid lava,
which, by refling on it, would prevent every poflible apprpach of frcih air, fo abfo-
lutely neceflfary to its being inflamed. It is certain that coal may be expvfed tc the vio-
lent adion of fire, in a clofe veflTel, without being confumed, or even fuffering any
material alteration, and therefore it is believed that this particular inftauce ought not to
be held of weight fuiScient to overturn a fyftem, in fupportof which fo many reafonablo
and almoft certain proofs concur.

Such are the difficulties which are thought to embarrafs the volcanic theory of the ba.
fakes. In your excellent judgment I am certain they will bear their juft value, found,
ed on an extennve knowledge of nature and her operations. But among the gene-
rality of mankind their weight will be exceedingly various, in reafonings concerning
natural phacnomena, the ftandard of truth is cNtremcly vague and equivocal. Climate
bears here a more powerful influence than can well be imagined ; fo that it is not un-
common to find an opinion univerfally adopted by the inhabitants of one country, while
thofe of the iieighbourirg kingdom iivall join as univerfally to leprobate it.

Thus the Necpolitans, accultomed from their infancy to the wild fcenes of horror
and delolation which abound in a foil ravaged by volcanic fire, and to fee as it were a
new world fuddcnly raifed on the ruins of their coimtry, have their warm imaginations
filled with the gigantic idea of this powerful principle, which to them appears adequate
to the produftion of every thing that is great rnd ilupendous in nature. HowdilFe-
rent are the fenfations and opinions which prevail in the native of ovir tcinperaf*? ifland !
To him the found of thunder is uncommon, an earthquake is almofl: a prodigy, and
the fury of the fubterranean fire is utterly unknown. He beholds nature purfue her
calm and fteady courfc with an uniformity almoil '.iuinterrupted ; he views the fame ob-
jeds unchanged for a long feries of years ; the fiune rivers to water his grounds, the
fame mountains fupply focid for his flocks, the fame varied line of coaft continues through
many fuccefllve ages lo bound his country, and to fet the foaming ocean at defiance:
hence he naturally proceeds to extend his ideas of regularity and ftiibiiiiy over the whole
world, and ftands utterly uninfluenced by thofe ^'••guments of change in the earth, which
to the inhabitant of a warmer climate appear abfumtely decifive.

In this manner are the prevailing opinions, even among the philofophers of moft
countries, generally founded on partial analogies ; md it requires a vigorous mind, as
'*tll as an extenfive and clear underftanding, ic prevent our being mifled by the fpe-
iious arguments and dangerous condufions which have been derived from fuch de-
ceitful fources, many of them plainly tending to multiply falfe opinions, and to fubvert
the only true principles of religion and morality.

LETTER

KORTHF.RN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM.

9IS

DEAR SIR,

LETTER XII.

Portrujh, September 10.

IF the volcanic theory of the bafaltes be well founded, and no doubt many of the
arguments in favour of it are extrenKly plaufible, a fcene of horror is prt-fented to our
view, which muft furely fill us with alloiiifliment ; fmce on this fyftem it will be found,
that there is hardly a country on the face of our globe which has not at fome time 0-
other been wafted by the fury of I'ubterranean tire.

If, again, thofe apparent veftiges of marine produftions, which are obferved indifcri-
roinately fcattered through the earth, at all depths below the furface, and on the fum-
mits of its higheft mountains, be eiteenied fufficient proofs of the prefence of the ocean
in thofe places, a fcene, no "ofs wild and uncommon than the former, rifes before our
imagination ; in which the produ^^s of the equator and the poles appear to be jumbled
together in a manner incapable of being explained by any of the kno wnanalogies of
nature.

From obfervations fuch as thefe, where in truth every thing is inexplicable, many of
the modern philofophers, chiefly indeed of the French nation, have become warm ad-
mirers of the old brute atoms of Epicurus, or the myfterious piaflic prip.ciple of he
Stoics, forming to themfelves fyftems of nature, in which an intelligent caufe feems o
be of all others the leaft neceffary ; fyftems in which blind deltiny alone is fhe afl:ive
fpring of life and motion.

Thus are the fources of religion and morality efFedtually cut off at one blow, and
mankind deprived of thofe prefent bleffmgs, and that moft delightful hope of future
happinefs, which they fondly imagined to be rightly fo'-.nded on their natural inftincbs,
and fupported by the faireft deduftlons of reafon.

It is the bufmefs of natural hiftory 10 colled, as extenfively as poffible, all the phae-
nomena of nature, to compare fuch of them as bear any reafonabie fimititude, and from
their general analogies to derive conclufums which may benefit our fellow-creatures,either
as difcoveries ufeful in common life, or as fpeculative truths fuited to improve and en-
large the underftanding. In this point of view it is a fcience which merits the honour-
able praife of mankind, and is certainly inferior to none in the copious fources of delight
and improvement which it may afford to a rational mind.

Surely it is moft unaccountable, that a ftudy, which in this charafter appears fo lovely
and engaging, fhould neverthelefs have been purfued upon fuch perverfe principles,
and with fuch mifguided views, as to lead to confequences equally falfe in their own na-
ture, and ruinous to the welfare of auy fociety where they may become univerfally pre-
valent.

I have been accidentally led to make a few refleftions on this fubjeft, by the perufal
of fome foreign v > ^ers on natural hiftory, who have unfortunately applied the proofs
of thofe inexplicable changes which may poff.bly have taken place in the earth, and
indeed all their ntgative knowledge of nature, for the purpofe of difproving the ex-
iftence of its admirable author ; as if arguments derived from the depths of human ig-
norance, could, with any reafon, be efteemed capable of overturning fuch pofitive truths
as the faculties of mankind are entirely adequate to apprehend.

When n -n choofe to build their opinions on things which they >i- i.. »■ rightly under-
ftand, ratri-i- than on truths v,\'. come clearly within their co-'-.'henfion, ir can
hardly luppen that they will not x ■:• into very ;:;.ofs miftakes ; becaufe, as the number
of errors on any lubjeft is plainly whhout limits the chance is little lefs than infinif^
that luch reafoncrs will fall into the unfa*: ^-nable abyfs of f.U'^Lood.

C A a Such

g.x6

Hamilton's letters on the basaltes op the

Su:'i has been the f:Ue of the author of a French work, St/r lit Nnture, ant! indeed
of cvii'y aillowcj of that pernicious fchool of moJcrn philofoplty, which, reji-i^^ing all'
confitlcriition of final cauils, anJ dcfpifing thoi'o fiiiipl^^ and obvious anidogics that lead
to the moll ufel'ul and fati fatory tnilhs; has cholcn rather to purfue others, which nei-
ther its dilciplcs, nor t!ic rcfl: of nirnkind, are in any refpeft fuited to invoftigate *.

l\rh:ips .m example niny forve to rcnu.j mc r.u re intelligible, and to point oiit iho
gencr.'.' fallacy of this unhappy fp^^'ci- s of n'alonirt>.

T!>';ro can be no doubt that tlie t<'lefrvi,-vc., with al! i. i nrefcnt improvements, is the
refult > f a inoft happy application of UiKOt'imo;! fKill ai;.:! ingenuity, contriving and
conibiiing all the various pu'ts and ruovemcr;^ of 'hat cna iS m.ichine, for the excel-
cellent purpofe of allitiii'.g v 'ion.

In p'oportion as t'lLic; movements w; -o gradually invcnied and applied to ufe, during
a long i-rics ©f yuiif ;, when e;'ch I'uccefiive difcovery was brought to the utmod ex-
tent of its perfefticn, hiankind then obfervod that the human eye, in a very fuperior
manner, enjoyed that part'cular adva:it.'4,e which th 7 h, i fou^^ht for with fo much
art and induftry, exhibj'iiig 1 view t perfett achroi;io.ric indrument of vifion, adapting
itftdf with furi.rifmg faciiiiy tt> the liitl'eicn! hrightnefs of it.; objeds, and to a vail variety
of diftatices.

At the l".{t, a defeft was difcovered in th ^ telckopes, arifing from the fpheiical figure
of the pli'.ire!, ; in confequence of winich the focus of thofe rays which fill near the limb
oi the ^.tafj, and of fuch as pafs near to its center, do not coinciJe. This dtfedl,
sfvLr various fVuitlefs attempts to obviate it, has for many years been given up by the
moll ingenious as irremediable \. But though men have, in this indance, found that
there are bouiids placed to their utmoft fkill and ingenuity, yet have they learned this
iifcful truth, that there are no d:;' overable limits fet to the powers of that admirable
Canfe which formed the human eve; this error being there entirely corroded, in the
curious conftrudion of the cryftallifu humour, the principal refra(Ming lens of ihe organ
of vifion J V hich gradually increafmi'; in denlity from the limb toward the middle, does
by this wonderful variatio.i of its retridive power in one refptd, counterad the errors
which would have arifen from the oslur conridcraiion.

This liippy union of dilferent parts and movements, as well in the natural as in the
artificial UKichine, each attaining its ov n particular end, and all together without con-
fufron or interference, compkating one greater and more cxcellen' clfec^, vhis, I fay,
reafonal le men denominate a work of dcfign ; and as they alhrm that the telefcope
is an inl^niment formed to allili vifion, in confequence of various means duly con-
nedled, by an invifible ca*»ie : (fof it is plain that there is fome movmg principle in man,
which is neither eyes, cars, hands, or head, neither the /o«/ en ciiihle of:'!l ihcfr nor
in any rcfpeft the olijed of our fenfer. :) fo do they believe that the nuinan eye is an
inflrumtnt mad" for the ufe of m?n, by an exceeding apt combination of intermediate
laufes, wonderfully and moll unaccountably connedc* together, by one great, wife,
i:nd good caufe ; who is neither the eye itfelf nor any part of its mcchanifin, nor at all

• " II fft au tlcfToii-i <le Dicti d'njf'r pour line fin." Vide Jlcs Carte* Pliilofoph. Maupertuls EfTai d.e
Cofrri'ilogic. I'u.loii 'I'lK'oiie dc la 'I'l-trc. li!;l;i.icl Sur la NaC'ire, ."^c i^c.

f Tlic iiwft pn.l-.aUk iiiiiiis ilifiovicd uf i.ite years, f' r r.ov n'tiii^ ' llicfc Iplitricil erxi' ■!, !)a'i '

t.) ilic piiLlic L) 'iiat txcillti.t niitiih artil'
iiTafiiic rtm'.vtd m tlie cvf-'jlufTcs of tclcl
of the iiiliriiiTK'i.l as fhai tlic iiii^jfc foriii''
btc ritiLlupliical lUtiniitl uiisui the Ku;

K- of I

.1. i\;ini,|cn, who ronciives Hum cipanlf o
iwIuTe tlic\ iirr moll fciifi'iiv f>'h; by 1
■K. ot)i' .'t ulals ftiall l.ili a* i/v.ii as jiuliil. ■
ty ol J.g:,4i>ti; ;V. D, l /Hi.

:i oh.-;;.!

adjiiilmeiit
■.tiC tyc-ginla.

the

MORTHERN COAST OF THE COUNTY OF ANT AIM.

9^7

the objcft of mir fcnf" s, but only vifihle to us through the bea,uty and wifjom of the
works of creation, in the fiime manner as thought and intelligt.ice in man are known
to us through thole motions and eil'efts daily produced before us, which we do always
fuppofe to reliilt, originally, from a principle in fome fort refenibiing our own minds.

From hence, ;ui;l a thouiand other fimilar analogies, for apprehciuling which our fa-
culties are admira ily fuited, malikind have rcafonably inferred the exifltnce of one fii •
perior, intelligent, good Being, who is every where prefent ; whom we fee, and feel,
and hear, every moment of our lives, in the vifible works of nature, as we do in par.
ticular tircumftances hear and feel, and fee other beings whom we denominate men.

To this realonimi-, which does not in any refped app' ar uncandid or delufive, the
author of the treatife Sur la Nature warmly objects. — What ! the eyes made for vifion,
which in many inflances fail and b come blind? — The teeth and jaws made to grind
food, which fo often loofe, and refufe to perform their ofllce ? — The earth formod to
fupport its inhabitants, while it contains volcanos which may have dellroyed thetn by
fire \ Or an ocean, which has overwhelmed them under its v^uters ?

Thefc are fome of the objections of that extraordinary writer, and this the general
mode of argument, unhappily adopted on the continent by too many of thofe who have
obtained the honoin-able title of philofophers : a falle fpecies of reaionin ;, in which the
pofitive parts of human knowledge are mod fophillically fupplanted by what is purtly
negative ; in which a mJn is required to judge of the truth of what he knows, by thofe
other parts of nature where he is avowedly ignorant.

From principles fii'jh as thefe the ChrilUan religion has been haftily rejected ; becaufe
the popidation of America, and the acciJemal qualities of its inhabitants, could not im-
mediately be explained by fpeculativc men, who had no other data whereon to reafon
except the imaginary extent of their own gtjnius, together with an entire ignorance of
the fituation of that continent, and the qualities of its inhabitants *.

From the fame deceitful fourcc of reaibning this beautiful world, fo aptly formed,
fo wifely moved, fo boSntifii'ly and yet fo varioufly adapted to maintain its different in-
habitants, that the native of every country from the equator to the poles, finds caufe to
bid's his fituation, and to boalt of comforts unknown in other climates. This curious
(Iruclure, the delight and wonder of the bed and wifeft n\en in every age, has been con-
demned by a few prefumptuous fopliifts, as tne work of bhnd deftiny, acting through the
prefent elements of nature, becaufe there are many of its principles and movements
of whofe ufe they are ignorant ; becauie there appear to be veftiges of the ravages of
iirc,'or the inundations of t!io ocean, which they are not able to explain.

It is moll certain, that the laws of motion which now exiit, could have produced
this world in the beginning, neither are they capable of conthming it for ever in its
preient Hate.

I'he interior {truclure of the earth, whereby its various foflU fubftanccs, though dillor-
ing exceedingly from each other in fpecilic gravity, though not arranged according to any
regular law of fituation, do yet conllitute a world felf-balanced, a fphere whofe centre of

•

• The proximity of Amcrici to tiir continent of Afia i.' now perfectly afccrtainetl by the BritiAi navi-
j;atoi8. The CDiUuiciit all'titiwu ot lUoiU'.n philofoplitn:, that its inhabitants were beardUA, is tVuin v.iaiiy
(jiiartcra piovcJ to be falle ; and there is every lenl'on for believing tiiat tlkir copjier eolour, and oilur pe-
iiiliarities, are altoj^tther the eilVct )of the foil and elimate, finee the pron;eny of the I'^uropeani has been fo:i!ul
tt^ fuficr very eonliderable eliamreg in all thefe cire.r.nllance^, even during th • canrfe of tluile few ircntr i;i i-n
whi h liavt paTi'd lliice their fir:l ellablilh "'n'lit tliere. So that in thefe inllances reveakd re',it;ion, fo t tr
from apprtheni.^ im dan;;er from th • liilVn.' • -j of I'u'.ii a 'd the inipiovfuieiit oi liUinail knowledge, has uidy
fiiir<red from the ignoraiii:c or nvlinfurmatiuu of philofojiliera.

graviry

9i8

Hamilton's rsTTEks on the basaltes op the

•gravity coincides with its centre of magnitude (without which all its motions muft have
been in an extreme degree irregular), evidently demands a firft; caufe, which neither
atls blindly, nor ofneceflity. A blind principle is not wont to labour in defiance of all
chance ; neither do mechanical caufes ufually produce their effccls in contempt of tl»e
edabliflud laws of matter and motion.

The gradual afcent of our continents from the fliores of the ocean, toward their
mediterranean parts, fo neceffary for collefling the rains of hraven, and gjving birtli
and courfc to thofe rivers which beautify and fertilize the earth : this exterior form,
without which the vapours of tho fea would have afccnded to the clouds in vain, phiinly
requires the interference of fome principle fuperior to any of the known elements of
nature. Whatever the followers of Epicurus may think of thofe elements, no rcafon-
able man will believe that the waves of the ocean could have created a country whole
foil lies far above the level of its waters ; or that the fury of .volcanic ciuptions could
have produced an etieft, fo general, that we are rather led to infer the calual exigence of
former volcanoes in particular places, bccaufe of fome apparent univerfal interruption
to this regularity of form.

The projeftile force by which the earth was in the beginning made to move round
the centre of light and heat ; its diurnal rotation, duly diflufing this light and heat over
the furface ; the inclination of its axis to the plane of the ecliptic, whereby the tropical
climates receive fewer of the fun's rays, while the inhabitant of i he polar circle enjoys
a much larger fliare • : all thefe effefts, far furpafling the prefcnt powers of nature
moft aptly combined together, working in concert without interference or diforder for
the attainment ot ono great, and good, and excellent end, clearly prove that this world
has been produced by one powerful, intelligent, and benevolent principle, utterly unlike
to any mechanical caufe which now does exift, or that can be conceived to exift.

Mechanical caufes, fuch as we are acquainted with, evidently tend to deffrov the
prefcnt form of the world ; and thereby afford the ftrongefl: proof that it is not by its
conflitution immortal.

Sir Ifaac Newton has demondrated, that the perturbing forces which take place in
the folar fyftem, mud in due time deftroy the planetary motions, unlefs the fiHt mover
fif all things fliall chufe to interfere. And it is fufncientl/ evident, that the flfjw but
certain operations of heat and cold, together with the continued adion of the air and
ftorms, are capable of breaking and changing the moft firm bodies, even the hardeft
rocks ; while the numerous rivers on the earth's furface, and the waves which wafh
its (hnres, perpetually labour to bear all tii.^fe fubftances into the bottom of the ocean
and thereby to reduce all things to a level fituation.

Since then the earth yet continues to circulate with regularity round the fun, not-
withftanding the perturbing forces of the planets; fince all the countries on its furface
Itill retain their elevated form, in oppofition to thofe bo.jfled mechanical caufes, that
labour inceflfantly to deliroy it; fince its impetuous rivers which purfue their courfe
toward the ocean, have not yet finoothed thofe abrupt and prccipic.'ous catarafts, over
which they rufli with fuch unbridled fury, it is plain, either tiiat the world, as we now
fee it, is but of a fhort duration ; or elfe, that fome faving hand has interfered to retard
the progrefs of caufes which in fufficiciit length of time mufl needs produce their efFeds.

If we call our eyes over the annals of the world, we fliall find in the hiftury of the
human race a clear and decifive evidence in favour of thofe general truths which our
religion teaches, concerning the duration of the earth and its inhabitants. The evident

Vide Keil's Phyf. Effayi.

'" «irifS

NORTHEHN COAST OP THE COUNTV OF ANTRIM.

919

marks of novelty in all thofe arts and fcienccs that are the offspring of experience : the
wonder and terror with which the earlier philofophers (though in other refpects well
informed men) were wont to behold many of thofe natural appearances, which longer
obCe vation has fljewn to be neither uncommon nor dangerous : the general defeft of
all hiftories and traditions antecedent to a certain period at which the Jcwiih writings
affirm the world to have been dc;ftroyed by water : theie cogent circumftances afford
the plainf'ft proof that the human race has not exifted here for many ages.

I'heie is not now a nation on the earth, neither has there been one for thcfe two
thoufand years part, whofe remote traditions extend, with any degree of probability,
beyond that memorable period of the univerfal deluge, which is r.'cordcd in the facred
writings ; fo that whatever Monf. Voltaire and others may aCert concerning the eter-
nity of the world, its motions, or its iniiabitants, they will find but few rational men to
adopt his wild fyftem of aflronomy, or who can be perfuaded to believe that the fun
ever rofe in the weft, or that the Babylonians made obfervations on that luminary fame
millions of years ago, when it was at the north pole *.

Perhaps you will fay, that fuch language as this is filly and childifh, beneath the name
of philofophical, and unworthy of any anfwer— yet I can affure you it is the general lan-
guage of that miferable fchool of modern philolbphy, which fearches for the mgft un-
known motions in nature, to explain thofe that are beft known ; which breaks frag-
ments from the fun by chance, and then myfterioufly forms them into habitable worlds ;
—which makes the ocean to aft where it is notf ; — which quotes the fables of Ovid,
or the ules of the Egyptians, as its beft authority in natural hiftory J ; — which utterly
rejefts the delightful and profitable purfuit of final caufes § ;— and holds the moft pre-
cious moments of life to be well employed in endeavours to difcover the thoughts and
amufementsof trees and ftones ||.

If this be wifdom, we, my friend, have reafon to boaft that we are not wife: if thefe
be the vaunted fruits of freedom of thought, wc have good caufe indeed to rejoice that
we are not free ; that we fti'l retain our dcpendance on a wife and bountiful Providence ;
and have not yet iallen into t'mt univerfal anarchy of opinion, where each individual
labov : L to enthrone and to auo 'o every wild phantom of his own wandering imagination,
juft as folly or caprice may chau ° t( liretl his choice.

* Monf. Voltaire, ""d after him the Ahut Kr^nall, believes thai the earth has an unknown motion round
one of its equatorial diameters, in fuch fort that its axis performs an entire revolution in the fpace of four
millions of years, Voltairf's proofs of this motion arc founded on an obfervation of the obliquity of the
cqii .tor and ecliptic, faid to have been ni;ult' by Pythais about two thoufand years a[V' ' on the genera! ac-
counts to be met with in Ovid's Metnmorphofcs of Uran^e revolutionii having formf ken place on the
earth's furfacc ; and on a wild fable of the Egyptians, affirming that the fun rofe twi> . the well within
the memory oi their nation. Nay, this extraordinary phiiofopher fcems to imagine it .... very improbable
that the poles themfclve? may travel over diflerent parts of the earth's furfacc : and it feems but a flight ob-
jeiSion 10 this belief, that the oldell monuments in the world, the pyramids of Egypt, are accurately iituated
toiace the cardinal jioints of ihc compafn. the liability of »vhich cardinal points entirely depends on thecon*
tinuance of the poles of the earth in the fame precife fpot of thefurface.

f V ide Buffou's I'heorie de la Terre.

J Vide Voltaire's Period of lo- ". ^nd Years.

<5 Vide Des Cartes, Mauperluii., i> w.

jl Vide Robinct fut la Nature.

END OF THE THIRD VOLUME.

': I!. '

Sirihin mil Ptrfion,
PriDicri-Str>ct, London.

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Full text of "A General collection of the best and most interesting voyages and travels in all parts of the world [microform] : many of which are now first translated into English : digested on a new plan"

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